CAPE ANN, MA
DESTINATION CAPE ANN, MA
Exterior view of the Beauport Hotel on Pavilion Beach, Gloucester, MA.
C
ape Ann may only be 40 miles from Boston, yet it is a world apart. Driving northeast of the city, you can feel the change in atmosphere along Route 128 as you approach the coast. The temperature drops, the air begins to take on a briny tang and you can sense the coming immersion into the natural world. The landscape of Cape Ann is as fascinating as it is variable: rocky shorelines punctuated by long stretches of sandy beaches, small coves and tide pools, and wooded acres that stretch from the shoreline across the interior of Cape Ann. Since the age of sail, Cape Ann has been creating man-made riches as well: harbors crowded with boats, fishermen landing their catch and compelling architecture. For over 100 years, renowned artists such as
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Fitz Henry Lane, Winslow Homer, William Morris Hunt, Edward Hopper, John Sloan and Mark Rothko have all come to Cape Ann to paint. Following in the footsteps of these artists is a remarkable experience, and Cape Ann provides access to anyone willing to take the trip. Comprised of only 58 square miles and four communities—Essex, Manchester-by-theSea, Gloucester and Rockport—Cape Ann is a manageable size for exploration. Every visit needs a starting point, and the perfect place to begin is the small village of Rockport at the furthest tip of Cape Ann, easily accessible on Route 127. Your first stop in Rockport is the Rockport Art Association & Museum (RAA&M) a complex of 19th-century buildings housing galleries, exhibition spaces and a
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new gift shop. The RAA&M is the ideal place to orient yourself to the art—both past and present—in Rockport. Since 1921, the RAA&M has been the home for shows of its artist-members’ work. In keeping with its mission of education, it also offers classes and workshops throughout the summer for everyone from professional artists to children. Upcoming exhibits include the Second Summer Show: Painting, Graphics, Sculpture, & Photography (through July 16), followed by the Third Summer Show: Painting, Graphics, Sculpture, & Photography (July 21–August 20). “Visitors will also experience a few surprises, with pop-up shows planned throughout the summer months, as well as a curated selection of paintings on exhibit from the museum’s extensive permanent collection,” says Margaret
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CAPE ANN, MA Jeanne Greenleaf, Three Dories, 2018, transparent watercolor, 4 x 6". Courtesy of the artist.
Redington, program manager at the RAA&M. Just up the street and around the corner is a contrast in perspectives at iartcolony, a contemporary studio and exhibit space. Bob Armstrong and artist Jill Whitney Armstrong are art advisors, curators and co-founders of this gallery. The Armstrongs organize each of their shows around a central concept, often with a metaphysical twist. iartcolony’s current show, the shaman show (through July 9) features the work of a range of creatives “exploring the idea of artist as shaman,” says Jill. Some of the artists include Rita Freed, the Museum of Fine
Arts, Boston’s chair of the Art of the Ancient World and game-theorist Graham Yeager, a conceptual artist who created a game specific to the show, one designed to enhance human connection. iartcolony’s next show is the cult of cape ann (August 18–October 9). Ideally, every artists’ community should have a frame shop, one that offers custom, archival-quality services. Hershey Frame Shop is just such a place, and a crucial part of the Cape Ann arts ecosystem. Located less than a mile from the galleries of downtown Rockport, Hershey Frame Shop is also home to the Caleb
Rulli Gallery. Caleb Rulli is both the artist and the frame-maker and the shop is named for his grandfather, Sam Hershey, a celebrated mid20th-century Cape Ann artist. Rulli is pleased to carry on the Cape Ann traditions of art and craftsmanship. “We make our own moldings here,” says Rulli, “and our large space means we are capable of handling custom frames for bigger shows with several pieces.” Rulli, along with his staff, provide expert conservation and restoration services. He also builds and stretches his own canvases for his work in oils and oil pastels. For a relaxing, immersive tour of the region’s art galleries and studios, check out PlugIn Cape Ann Tours. Launched last year, PlugIn offers the only land-based tours on Cape Ann. One of the most popular is “The Art of Cape Ann,” where visitors can meet artists in a studio setting. “We bring people to the studios, and artists are so happy to share their process,” says Kimberly Voltero, owner of Plug-In Tours. “It becomes a social experience.” Voltero makes sure her tours are an experience in hospitality as well, offering refreshments on the bus between stops. Plug-In offers tours throughout the summer culminating in a guided excursion in conjunction with the Cape Ann Artisans Open Studios Tour, October 6-8. Cape Ann makes a great day trip destination, yet, with so much to see, an extended visit is even better. When deciding where to
Changing Day (detail), Oil pastel on cavas, 42 x 46". Artist Caleb Rulli.
Hershey Frame Shop Caleb Rulli Gallery
18 Railroad Ave. Rockport MA 01966 978-546-2655 | crulli@hersheyframeshop.com hersheyframeshop.com | calebrulli.com
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CAPE ANN, MA stay, a great place to begin your search is with the Inns of Rockport—a consortium of bedand-breakfasts and small hotels in Rockport. The group’s website (innsofrockport.com) is a one-stop resource for comparing amenities and pricing. “We find that working together means that we can offer more to Rockport’s visitors. If a particular inn is full, we can refer a guest to a bed-and-breakfast or customize a referral to meet a guest’s preferences,” says Lynne Norris, owner of the Pleasant Street Inn and a member of the Inns of Rockport. Several inns offer packages and customized options for the art-loving traveler, and many innkeepers are experts on the regions can’t-miss galleries. Several of these galleries are found in Gloucester, just a few miles away from Rockport. Make sure to take 127A which follows the coastline between Rockport and Gloucester. A beautiful drive in its own right, this route also offers the advantage of spilling onto one of Cape Ann’s loveliest byways:
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Atlantic Avenue and Gloucester’s Back Shore. Driving along the Back Shore will bring you to the entrance to Rocky Neck, a narrow peninsula which juts out into Gloucester Harbor. The outer side of the peninsula faces the ocean; the inner side faces Smith Cove, a lovely, sheltered harbor filled with a mix of pleasure boats and working vessels. Rocky Neck is home to America’s oldest art colony, the Rocky Neck Art Colony, a status in keeping with that of Gloucester as America’s oldest port. Artists such as Emile Gruppe lived and worked on Rocky Neck for decades— sculptor Leonard Craske created Gloucester’s Man at the Wheel statue—and some of Rocky Neck’s studios have been in continual use for over 100 years. The old wharves from the heyday of Gloucester’s fishing industry still line the perimeter of Smith’s Cove, only now many of these wharves are host to summer restaurants and galleries. When visiting Rocky Neck, park your car
at the lot located just past the entrance to the peninsula. This allows for a leisurely stroll along the water, stopping in at galleries and studios on the way. One of the first stops is the gallery Imagine, featuring work by ownerartist Brenda Malloy. Now in her 17th year on Rocky Neck, Malloy says that “Rocky Neck is a real neighborhood.” This sense of community informs her work, as “Imagine is a place for love, in color.” Malloy’s gallery also serves as a gathering spot and a place to engage her visitors. She incorporates a range of media into her collages: sand from the beach, broken bits of pottery, beads and other found objects. Her work is intuitive and happy, much like Malloy herself. Imagine will feature Brenda Malloy’s collages, paintings and painted sculpture through October. Following the waterline toward the end of the peninsula brings you to Madfish Wharf and a cluster of galleries. Here you’ll find the Jeanne Greenleaf Gallery. A much-
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CAPE ANN, MA
Regina Piantedosi, Map, leaf/mixed media, 60 x 40". Courtesy of the artist. Photo: Regina Piantedosi.
lauded watercolorist, Greenleaf—a recipient of the prestigious Dolphin Award from the American Watercolor Society—works in oils and mixed media sculpture. Greenleaf has lived and worked here, off and on, since 1968. Her subjects range from studies in nature to large-scale depictions of the human form. Fluid in a range of mediums, Greenleaf’s summer home is a light-filled gallery space. She shows her sculpture and smaller works— exquisite watercolors, landscapes and still lifes—through October. Just across the wharf from the Greenleaf Gallery is the Sallie Strand Studio. This season finds artist Sallie Strand showing her abstracts in oil and acrylic. “I’ve been a creative person all of my life,” Strand says, having moved from creating desserts in her former life as a pastry chef into her work as a full-time painter. With a live/work studio in Waltham, MA, and a summer studio on Rocky Neck, Strand moves between creative communities and is inspired by both. “I wanted to come to Rocky Neck for the strong sense of community,” she says. Her lush colors and intuitive lines speak to the instinctive approach of a lifelong artist. To see her abstracts in person, stop by the gallery during the Rocky Neck’s summer season, which extends into mid-October. Nearby on Madfish Wharf, is the Regina Piantedosi Gallery. Artist Regina Piantedosi
strives to create original, vibrant pieces. She works in encaustic, glass, polymers, metal, canvas and paint. She calls her approach “progressive art” in that “she builds [her] work in layers…and [goes] where the piece takes me.” She pushes herself to use unexpected materials and often works in a large scale for impact. She has been told that her work carries, “a sense of isolation.” Yet, she is fine with that description. “People respond to the work, and that’s the important thing.” Piantedosi is also a poet and this summer is showing a series of her verse with her paintings making for a
IMAGINE Gallery
compelling expression of her artistic vision. Located across the harbor from Rocky Neck is Gloucester’s downtown, a short drive away. With its mix of historic buildings and newer construction, the past lives with the present here. In the heart of downtown, is the Beth Williams Studio, where this synthesis of past and present is in full view. Williams is an artisan in the old-world sense of the word. She handcrafts each element of her jewelry, from the metalwork to the handmade glass beads, into custom pieces (primarily earrings and necklaces). After
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Historic Collection of Cape Ann Artists, Contemporary Exhibitions, and Educational Programs.
celebrating 17 years in the historic rocky neck art colony, Gloucester, MA • 978-559-1709
12 Main Street, Rockport, MA rockportartassn.org | 978.546.6604 |
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imaginerockyneck.com
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CAPE ANN, MA this history, with echoes of ancient Venetian techniques and forms. One of her signatures is the way in which she incorporates metals into her designs. Drops of real gold and silver play across the surfaces of her beads and her jewelry reflects her skill in combining this ancient practice with contemporary design. Moving through Gloucester’s downtown, Jill Whitney Armstrong, Snowy Owl - Spirit in the Rocks, oil on canvas, 20 x 20". Courtesy of the artist. you’ll continue to follow the working as a metalsmith for several years, Wilcoastline along Route 127 toward Manchesterliams began making lampwork glass beads— by-the-Sea. On the way you’ll discover Stage where each bead is shaped in its molten form Fort Park, one of the centers of Gloucester’s over a flame, demanding enormous control community life. Each August, Stage Fort and expertise. That was 25 years ago, and provides a beautiful setting for the Gloucester the art of bead making continues to intrigue Waterfront Festival. This Cape Ann Chamber her. “Beadwork is one of the oldest forms of of Commerce-sponsored festival attracts artistic expression,” she says. Her work reflects an estimated 50,000 visitors over two days
(August 18 & 19). An arts and crafts event, the festival boasts more than 200 vendors offering everything from handmade ceramics to fiberwork to fine art. Live music and the famous boiled lobster dinner are part of the festival. “It’s a fantastic way to spend a summer day in New England: lobster, music and art. Really, what could be better?” asks Ken Riehl, the Chamber’s CEO. Speaking of the Gloucester waterfront, if Gloucester is the desired home base for your getaway, then consider one of Cape Ann’s newest—and finest—hot spots, the Beauport Hotel on Gloucester Harbor. Just two years old, it’s fast become a favorite destination for residents, visitors and brides! Its 94 guestrooms, exceptional restaurant, rooftop pool, and lively Tavern, balance intimacy and casual elegance. Enjoy an unforgettable Cape Ann sunset from the deck—or Pavilion Beach below—and make a wish upon the stars. Leaving the Stage Fort Park area, continue along Route 127 until you come to Kettle Cove, the home of the Northeast Art Workshops and Retreats. Tucked into the woods bordering the ocean, Northeast Art Workshops and Retreats provides a truly immersive experience in developing your skill as an artist. Whatever your level—whether as a hobbyist or a professional artist—this quiet retreat spot offers the chance to move your work forward. “Workshops in acrylics, oils, encaustic and watercolor are what we focus on,” says Kat Masella, founder of Northeast Art Workshops. An artist herself, Masella understands the creative process. She Sallie Strand, Sister Dance (detail), acrylic on canvas, 64 x 50".
SALLIE STRAND GALLERY contemporary abstract paintings
June 3—Sept. 3 • Th-Su 12—5 • by appointment 77 Rocky Neck Ave (Mad Fish Wharf), Gloucester, MA (617) 968-3455 • salliestrand.com
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CAPE ANN, MA is also a yoga instructor and her workshops include a mind-body connection, with beach walks and morning stretches built into each session. This summer Masella is offering Mixed Media Collage Adventure with Ken Kewly (July 10–13) and Artist Retreat Immersion (August 16–25). After-hours, participants can explore local restaurants and connect with other artists. Take Route 127 into the heart of Manchester-by-the-Sea and enjoy one of Massachusetts’s prettiest coastal villages. Masconomo Park in Manchester is the site of the Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce’s annual Festival-by-the-Sea (August 4). This festival is “a celebration of locally grown art, music and food…it has become a can’t-miss festival for anyone who appreciates local culture,” says Riehl. With over 100
vendors offering locally-produced food, fine arts and craft, and two stages featuring local bands, the festival also serves as a celebration of the village itself. Manchester— along with Essex, Rockport, and Gloucester—play host to another annual festival: the Cape Ann Plein Air Festival and Competition (October 7–15). In its third year, Cape Ann Plein Air is already an indispensable part of the region’s arts calendar, with participating plein air artists traveling to Cape Ann from across the country (and beyond). “As the birthplace of plein air painting in America, Cape Ann is the perfect place for this competition,” says CF Hayback, marketing director of CAPA. “Plein air is the largest movement in the history of art,” and there is no sign of an ebb on
Cape Ann. You’ll undoubtedly see many artists painting outdoors on your journey; some precariously perched on Bass Rocks, easels moving with the breeze, or parked on a roadside in an effort to capture a particular bird, marsh scene or the ever-changing colors of a Cape Ann sky. From plein air painting to art colonies to working artisans, Cape Ann remains abundant in its cultural riches. And with its natural beauty, it’s easy to see why artists return to Cape Ann again and again. As a visitor to the region, it’s a delight to explore a place where art is so valued, so plentiful—a place whose cultural foundation is as unchangeable as the granite of Cape Ann itself. —S.D. Kelly
All Welcome
Northeast Art Workshop Retreats NortheastArtWorkshops.com
Jeanne Greenleaf 77 Rocky Neck Ave, Gloucester, MA (850) 766-6234 • jeannegreenleaf.com
Ac l cla l m i Ar med ed tW Y i Re or ear um tre ksh -Ro s at op un s d
Meet the Artists in their Studios
The Art of Cape Ann
“red skiff” 48 x 48
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PIANTEDOSI progressive art internationally collected, award winning | expressive - encaustic - mixed media 77 Rocky Neck Ave. Gloucester | 617-548-3726 | www.reginapiantedosi.com
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