FOOD & DRINKS
Harbour at Marigo, the French capital of St Martin
SAVOURING ST. MARTIN How to have a Foodie vacation in the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean. BY MEGAN HONAN
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BOLD TRAVELLER SPRING/SUMMER 2023
GO LOLO ST. MARTIN’S STREET FOOD SCENE
In need of a home-cooked meal, I set out in search of lolos, open-air food stands that line the pier of Marigot. Here, local chefs, better known as Belongers, serve up creative, flavourful Creole dishes. At Hot Spot, a small stand tucked next to the market, the sound of sizzling hot johnny cakes greets me, along with owner Darrell Brooks. “Welcome to the best lolo on the island. I swear to you, no better deal in town,” says Brooks, and the menu backs him up: a full islanders breakfast, consisting of fried plantains, codfish, eggs, home fries, bacon and, of course, johnny cakes – all for $10. Johnny cakes are baked bread patties that over decades have become a homegrown tradition in St. Martin. “There were no bakeries back in the day, so johnny cakes were prepared
by wives to give to their husbands to bring to plantations,” says Brooks. “They wouldn’t have time to eat breakfast, so they would pick at the bread all day. They were originally called journey cakes, as it was eaten on the way to work, but over time with our accent it just turned into johnny cakes.”
Photographs: Saint Martin Tourism, La Cigale Restaurant, Loterie Farm
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ROM FINE-DINING French establishments, to unpretentious Creole street food – there is something for everyone in the foodie destination of St. Martin. Here’s our shortlist of culinary experiences you won’t want to miss. Nestled in the archipelago of the Leeward Islands lies St. Martin, a quick four hour flight from most major cities in North America – and yet upon my arrival I feel worlds away. Famed for its blend of two countries on one island, St. Martin is home to both Dutch Sint Maarten and French Saint-Martin. Which is perhaps why the island is dubbed the “Culinary Capital of the Caribbean,” offering plenty of local flavour within 100km. Recently, tourists and chefs alike have flocked in droves to the island for a taste of Michelin-informed French dishes, as well as the comfort of heart and soul Creole food.