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LUXURY MAGAZINE Spring 2017

Page 225

LUXURY LUXURY MAGAZINE

SPRING 2017


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AKRIS . ALEX ANDER Mc QUEEN ALICE + OLIVIA . BALENCIAGA BANDIER . BLUEMERCURY BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CAROLINA HERRER A . CÉLINE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN DIANE VON FURSTENBERG . DIOR DIOR BEAUTY . ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ESCADA . ETRO FENDI . GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI HADLEIGH’S . HARRY WINSTON HERMÈS . JAMES PERSE JIMMY CHOO . LELA ROSE LORO PIANA . MARKET R AG & BONE . R ALPH LAUREN SAINT LAURENT . ST. JOHN STELLA Mc CARTNEY . THEORY TOM FORD . TORY BURCH VINCE . WILLIAM NOBLE R ARE JEWELS PA R T I A L L I S T I N G

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AKRIS


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U · K

KUI‘U

LA PRESEN

b

TS

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epiphany The sound of splashing reached you on the lanai. You found their devices in their rooms looking lonely, tossed aside in a careless heap... The story continues at kukuiula.com/theepiphany


WHAT WILL YOUR STORY BE? O N T H E S O U T H S H O R E O F K A U A‘ I , there’s a new kind of residential resort experience where stories unfold. Yours can be among them. Stay in one of the well-appointed, private vacation homes at Kukui‘ula and discover an exclusive base camp to explore the many facets of one of Hawaii’s most lush and astonishing islands. Kukui‘ula—where wonder, relaxation, adventure and island culture combine—is the perfect habitat for discerning enthusiasts of all ages.

Create your Kukui‘ula story by visiting kukuiula.com/luxury or call 1-808-427-0797.

The Club House | Golf | Spa | Pools

Farm | Dining | Homes | Shopping


DEPARTMENTS NATURE Outward Bound | 14

Landscape photography

ADVENTURE Adrenaline for the Aesthete | 28 Explore the rugged, rest in style

TRAVEL Take Away Value | 42

Eight destinations prime for design tourism

FASHION Curated Color | 54

Monochromatic moments make a creative statement

VEHICLES Design Talks | 76

Nine design directors talk car, aviation, and ship developments

AUTOS Superlative Storage | 88

Garages that are more than just a place to park

Curated Color

54

TRENDS Leather Report | 94

From artisan-crafted calfskin handbags to hand-punched wingtip shoes, excellent craftsmanship defines timeless goods

LUXURY MAGAZINE Produced exclusively for Luxury Card members.

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SPIRITS Settling a Classic Cocktail Controversy | 102 Vodka is the genuine martini

ONE PLACE, TWO WAYS Dubai; Las Vegas; Utah | 106 HEALTH Life Lessons from the Blue Zones | 112 Habits and habitats of the world’s longest-living people

FOOD Culinary Artistry | 127

Japanese food that is almost too beautiful to eat

ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN Creative License | 132

Spaces with a spirit of adventure and quirkiness

Build Up | 146

Dissecting the design of a $250M spec home

FURNISHINGS Spring Finds | 150 Home furnishings and accessories

Adrenaline for the Aesthete

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TECH Style with Substance | 185 New products from CES prove tech needn’t be tacky

THE LUXURY LOOK Kick It Up a Notch | 188

The best-looking gear to work out

BEAUTY There’s the Rub | 204

How to receive the best quality massage

ARTIST PROFILE Painting’s Polymath | 214 Artist Gerhard Richter

WHAT’S WHAT International News & Notes | 236

Take Away Value

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FEATURES Otherworldly | 156

The power of the art side of design

Otherworldly

156

Glass Acts | 162

Meet the trailblazers who’ve redefined glass artistry

Design Dichotomy | 170

Inside the dual world of Milan’s furniture manufacturing

Ride with It | 192

A carbon fiber work of art exclusively for Luxury Card

The Most Amazing Race | 196 Bucket-list marathons

In Pods We Trust | 210

Float therapy, infrared saunas, and cryotherapy

In Pods We Trust

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LUXURY MAGAZINE PUBLISHED BY LUXURY CARD PUBLISHER Audrey Arnold audrey@luxurymagazine.com EDITOR IN CHIEF Samantha Brooks CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jennifer Fahey COPY EDITORS Kersten Deck Jocelyn Winn

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Ruven Afanador Meghan Bob Jeff Tucker & Kevin Hossler Andrew Yee CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jorge S. Arango Natalie Bloomingdale Crai Bower Brent Butterworth Ning Chao Alexandra Cheney Dan Dunn Judith Fein

Brett Forrest Kim Fredericks Jason Edward Kaufman Lisa Niver Irene Rawlings Paul Rubio Kathryn Romeyn Cynthia Rosenfeld Jennifer Ashton Ryan Alison Clare Steingold Shaun Tolson

ADVERTISING SALES East Coast Fashion & Luxury James Navarrete Jamesmediany@gmail.com West Coast Sales Rima Dorsey Rima.dorsey@gmail.com Southeast Sales Katherine Matthews and Jana Robinson Katherine@robinsonmedia.net Jana@robinsonmedia.net Detroit, Dan Flavin Dflavin@flavinandassoc.net Italy, Silvermedia, Ferruccio and Filippo Silvera Info@silvera.it UAE/Dubai, Alexandra Young alex@konexinternational.com

All contents of LUXURY MAGAZINE are the intellectual property of Black Card Mag LLC and Black Card LLC d/b/a Luxury Card (“Publisher”) and/or the respective photographers, writers, artists, and advertising agencies; are protected by copyright and trademark laws; and may not be reproduced, republished, distributed, transmitted, displayed, broadcast or otherwise exploited in any manner without the express written permission of the copyright and trademark owners. (c) 2017 Black Card Mag LLC and Black Card LLC d/b/a Luxury Card. All rights reserved. Views expressed are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the Publisher, which makes reasonable efforts to verify its content. Publisher expressly disclaims and does not assume responsibility for the validity of any claims or statements made, including content errors, omissions, or infringing content. Advertisements and offers are the responsibility of the individual advertising entities, and do not constitute a legal offer by Publisher. Publisher is not responsible for price fluctuations. Prices are based on those accurate at press time. Please consult with a Luxury Card Concierge for current prices.


5.18ct and 5.02ct Pear Shaped Diamonds, each topped with 4 round brilliant diamonds ranging from 0.41cts to 1.01cts and microset with 4 diamonds, all set in Platinum. © 2017. MARTIN KATZ, LTD.

“JEWELS THIS SPECIAL COULD ONLY COME FROM

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Martin Kat z .”

G O O D M A N


NATURE

OUTWARD BOUND PHOTOGRAPHERS EXPLORE LANDSCAPE AND WILDLIFE MOTIFS TO CREATE TRANSPORTING IMAGES THAT CONVEY BOTH ADMIRATION FOR OUR ENVIRONMENT’S INSPIRING BEAUTY AND CONCERNS FOR ITS PRESERVATION. by JASON EDWARD KAUFMAN

N

ature photographs tend to fall into two main genres: landscape and wildlife. In the United States, the landscape camp is inextricably linked to 20th-century master Ansel Adams. His breathtaking views of America’s national parks and natural splendor are among the most celebrated and familiar in all of photography. Adams imports into photography the tradition of Hudson River School painters Frederic Church, Albert Bierstadt, and later Winslow Homer, themselves indebted to European forebears. But not all landscape photographers tap this vein. Some prefer to tame the wilderness into picturesque scenes that express the ordering perspective of humans rather than the uncontrollable vastness of the cosmos. As humankind’s devastating impact on the planet becomes ever more evident, environmental sensitivity has emerged as a constant among today’s nature photographers. Adams himself was a conservationist, closely tied to the Sierra Club. He sought to draw attention to the endangered wilderness. How better than to create images imbued with nature’s beauty and majesty? In his spirit, we take a look at nature’s bounty framed through the lenses of some of today’s top nature photographers. w

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Courtesy Mark Burns


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Courtesy Mark Burns

Previous: Great Sand Dunes– Abstract #1, 2012 (Great Sand Dunes National Park). Opposite: Storm Clouds Over White Sands, 2010 (White Sands National Monument). Above: Stormy Tetons, 2014 (Grand Teton National Park).

MARK BURNS (b. 1958, Houston, Texas)

If you believe in reincarnation, you might suppose that Ansel Adams came back as Mark Burns. His National Parks Photography Project has produced images of North American landscape that already are iconic. Based in Houston, Burns honed his skills as a professional sports and commercial photographer before concentrating on landscape. He uses large- and medium-format film and digital cameras to create images that carry forward the classic blackand-white tradition. It is hard to imagine improving upon perfectly composed and masterfully printed works such as Storm Clouds Over White Sands (White Sands National Monument), Great Sand Dunes - Abstract #1 (Great Sand Dunes National Park), and Stormy Tetons (Grand Teton National Park). They are part of Burns’ campaign to portray all 59 parks for the centennial of the 1916 founding of the National Parks System. Burns plans to donate 25 complete sets of prints to museums around the country. The portfolio has toured museums in Texas and is available for exhibition at suitable venues. Over the next two years he will be photographing the Grand Canyon for the 2019 Centennial Anniversary of Grand Canyon National Park. Burns has photographs in The George H. W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum in College Station, Texas; the Pearl Fincher Museum of Fine Arts in Spring, Texas; and many private collections. His Topeka Glacier image hangs in the Department of the Interior in Washington, D.C., and he also made a portrait of former President George and Barbara Bush that hangs in the captain’s quarters of the aircraft carrier the USS George H.W. Bush (CVN 77). Burns recently mounted a commercial show at Off the Wall Gallery in Houston, and other cities are planned for 2017. Prices for new releases range from about $500 to $1,500 per print, unframed. thenationalparksphotographyproject.com w

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Clockwise from opposite bottom: Hyperborealis, 2010; Wilderness of Mirrors, Idaho, 2014; Deep Blue Sea Rising, Oregon, 2014; Spirit Infinity, Death Valley, California, 2014.

Courtesy David Benjamin Sherry

DAVID BENJAMIN SHERRY (b. 1981, Woodstock, NY)

There is a macho tinge to traditional photographs of the American West: Camera-wielding naturalists tend to be straight white men. Los Angeles–based Sherry’s response to “the male gaze” is to reinterpret classic landscapes by overlaying color filters on terrain conventionally depicted in austere black and white and adding people to typically unpopulated panoramas. His more personal vision finds El Capitán in Yosemite dotted with climbers, a flock of tourists tote selfie sticks in Yellowstone, and perhaps an erotic form lurking in a rainbow-colored cloud of smoke in Glacier National Park. Sherry’s vistas “inject a more queer and colorful vision of American Western photography,” he says, though he uses traditional large-format film cameras and old-fashioned printing techniques, preserving the craft rapidly fading in the age of digital photography. But he sometimes works in collage and sculpture as well. Sherry has exhibited at the Aspen Art Museum, the George Eastman Museum in Rochester, New York, the International Center of Photography in New York, and the Garage Museum in Moscow, and some of his works are in the collections of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Wexner Center in Columbus, Ohio, the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis, Minnesota, and the Saatchi Collection, London. The New Yorker and The New York Times have published his photographs, and he has three books. He plans to travel around the United States in 2017 to make work for a June exhibition at Salon 94 gallery in New York. Prices range from $10,000 to $30,000. salon94.com w

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CLIFFORD ROSS (b. 1952, New York, NY)

A photograph can never contain the fathomless detail of nature, but a strong enough lens can give that impression. That’s what Ross achieved in 2002 when he invented and patented a superhigh-definition camera, dubbed the R1, and deployed it in landscapes of Mount Sopris in Colorado. The resulting large-scale images are like Hudson River School paintings, but with resolution so exquisitely fine that the viewer feels transported into the scene. His work in other media includes the video Harmonium Mountain that features an original score by Philip Glass. Ross, who maintains a studio in Greenwich Village, studied painting and sculpture before delving into photography in his 40s. For his breakout black-and-white Hurricane series, begun in 1996, he photographed waves while standing in the turbulent water tethered to an assistant on land. Other series include images of misty New England orchards and the Moroccan desert, and waves and trees printed on wood veneer. Recently he has been working on multimedia installations including a 28 x 28–foot stained-glass wall for the US Federal Courthouse in Austin, Texas. Ross photographs are in the collections of The Museum of Modern Art, the Metropolitan, the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York, the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, among others. Prices vary depending on size. cliffordross.com w

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Courtesy Clifford Ross

Clockwise from opposite: Hurricane LIV, 2009/2011; Mountain I, 2004/2006; The Austin Wall, 2013, installation in US Federal Courthouse, Austin, TX.

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SEBASTIÃO SALGADO (b. 1944, Aimorés, Minas Gerais, Brazil)

Genesis is the third long-term series on global issues by the world-renowned documentarian Salgado. Completed between 2004 and 2011, the self-assigned project’s more than 200 works are about the world in its original state, before the rush of modern life. Arctic and desert landscapes, tropical rainforests, wildlife, and remote human communities suggest Earth as it has existed for millennia. Trained as an economist, Salgado’s first major multiyear series, Workers (1993), depicts the working conditions of day laborers around the world, while his second, Migrations (2000), portrays populations displaced by war, natural disaster, or economic necessity. Genesis is the result of Salgado’s commitment to raise public awareness about the pressing issues of environment and climate change. “So many times I’ve photographed stories that show the degradation of the planet, I thought the only way to give us an incentive, to bring hope, is to show the pictures of the pristine [portion of our] planet—to see the innocence, perhaps how it was on the day of creation. And then we can understand what we must preserve.” A related project has been the restoration of a Salgado Family woodland in his native Brazil—which in 1998 became a nature reserve—and his establishment of Instituto Terra, dedicated to reforestation and environmental education. Based in Paris, Salgado has traveled to more than 100 countries for his projects. His works are often published in newspapers and magazines, collected in thematic books, and made the subject of traveling exhibitions. Genesis visited more than 30 museums on a recent three-year tour. Among the many museums that own his work are the Pompidou Center in Paris, The Museum of Modern Art in New York, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography. Prices range from $9,000 to $120,000. amazonasimages.com w

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Clockwise from top: Iceberg between Paulet Island and the Shetland Islands on the Antarctica Canal, Antarctica, 2005. Climbing from the bottom of the mine to the dumping ground at the top of the mine is a balancing act when carrying 30 kilos of soil on slick ladders, Serra Pelada gold mine, State of Para, Brazil, 1986. Thousands of Rwandan refugees, Zaire, 1997.


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Š Sebastiao Salgado/Amazonas - Contact Press Images at mail@contactpressimages.com.


DAVID YARROW (b. 1966, Glasgow, Scotland)

Hunting big game with a camera, Yarrow’s trophies are images that bring us face to face with massive elephants and predatory felines. Like any hunter, he relies on cunning, skill, and knowledge of his prey to get off the perfect shot. He prefers wide-angle lenses, sometimes on remote-controlled cameras— luring odor-sensitive cats with aftershave—and triggers the motor drive shutter, sometimes from a nearby cage. He has bagged polar bears, lions, rhinos, zebras, and gorillas, their muzzles no more than a foot or two from the lens, and epic scenes of elephant herds crossing a dry lake in Kenya. He also has created astonishing staged pictures—a wolf prowling a Wild West saloon, a nude model caressing a cheetah—and images of indigenous people in Africa, including a timeless stunner of South Sudanese herders silhouetted among the U-shaped horns of their cattle. “That changed me from a good photographer into someone that galleries couldn’t afford to ignore,” he says. From his base in London’s posh Sloane Square, Yarrow—who used to work in finance—roughs it all over the world, sharing his adventures with more than 11,000 Twitter followers. He plans to add wild Alaskan wolves to his portfolio this year, and may resume work with gorillas at a location to be determined. His iconic photographs are collected in the book Wild Encounters (Rizzoli, 2016), and selections have been on tour at museums in London, Antwerp, Stockholm, Paris, Zurich, Amsterdam, and Dallas. Recent commercial shows have been at Rotella Gallery in New York, Holden Luntz Gallery in Palm Beach, Florida, and Isabella Garrucho Gallery in Greenwich, Connecticut. Prices range from $10,000 to $60,000. He donates 10 percent to the conservation charity Tusk Trust, as well as donating all author royalties from his book. davidyarrow.photography

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Clockwise from above: Family, Amboseli, Kenya, 2012; Leshan, Buddha, Sichuan, 1986; Sea of Good Fortune (Fuhai), Yuanming Yuan, Beijing, 2004.


Lois Conner, Courtesy Gitterman Gallery. Opposite, courtesy David Yarrow.

LOIS CONNER (b. 1951, Rockville Center, Long Island, NY)

If ancient Chinese painter-poets had cameras, what sort of images might they have made? Conner has been answering that question ever since a Guggenheim fellowship led her to China in 1984. With a 19th-centurystyle, 7 x 17–inch camera designed to take group portraits at banquets, she creates black-and-white compositions whose elongated vertical and horizontal formats resemble Chinese scrolls from the Ming Dynasty. Her rendering of the giant Buddha in Leshan, Sichuan, and mountain scenes in Zhejiang and Anhui provinces, echo the aesthetic refinement of the Chinese masters. Contemplative images of lotus ponds, the plant stems often resembling calligraphy, call to mind album leaves. Her large Lotus triptychs were included in the Chinese Gardens: Pavilions, Studios, Retreats exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2012. Conner earned an MFA at Yale in 1981 and has lived in New York City’s Gramercy Park district since 1976. She frequently returns to China, and has ventured to Vietnam and the American West (her mother was Cree). She plans this year to work in New Zealand, Italy, France, California, New Mexico, Utah, Colorado, and Arizona. Her absorption of traditional forms has made her a favorite among curators, resulting in a major 1994 retrospective, Landscape as Culture, at the Smithsonian Institution’s Sackler Gallery in Washington, D.C.; and a 1994 solo exhibition, Beijing: Contemporary and Imperial, at the Cleveland Museum of Art. She currently is taking part in The Poetics of Place: Contemporary Photographs from the Met Collection (until June 25, 2017). Other museums that have acquired her works include the Art Institute of Chicago, The Museum of Modern Art, the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, the Museum of Fine Arts Boston, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the National Gallery of Victoria, Australia. Prices for her prints range from $3,500 to $15,000. gittermangallery.com w

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From top: Maui Keiki, 2010; Breathe, 2013.

Undersea photography was a sideline when the brothers began as scuba-diving instructors, but their colorful images of marine life found a market and wet shooting became their main vocation. Most popular are “over/unders” that show aquatic creatures partly underwater and partly above. Breathe features a turtle sailing just below the surface near a palm-lined shore, and Maui Keiki shows a baby humpback whale diving after a breath—which won first place at the 2015 International Photography Awards in the underwater category, beating out 17,842 submissions from over 230 countries. The brothers operate a gallery in Paia, Maui, and have worked the waters off Hawaii, as well as French Polynesia, Indonesia, and other locales, often organizing trips à la Jacques Cousteau that include friends, collectors, and novices seeking underwater photography lessons (available through the Cesere Brothers Gallery). They recently brought

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14 people on a three-week voyage to the Galápagos Islands on a chartered yacht, and just returned from one of their ongoing trips with Silversea cruise line’s Silver Spirit, making stops around the Caribbean. Future trips are planned to Fiji, Palau, and Raja Ampat. In addition to all of that traveling, exclusive to the Four Seasons Maui (fourseasons.com), the pair hosts whale watch photo expeditions and “Unforgettable Experiences” excursions as artists in residence at the resort. The brothers have exhibited at the World Festival of Underwater Pictures in Antibes, France, and last year presented an installation about climate change at the C40 Mayors Summit in Mexico City. Their work is owned by Apple, Bank of Hawaii, the BBC, Delta Airlines, Eddie Bauer, and many private collectors. Limited editions on dye-infused aluminum range from $150 to $8,000 and are highly customizable. ceserebrothers.com

Courtesy Cesere Brothers

THE CESERE BROTHERS (John, b. 1977, and Dan, b. 1981, both in Methuen, Massachusetts)


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ADVENTURE

ADRENALINE for the

AESTHETE HIKE YOUR HEART OUT, GET CARRIED AWAY KITEBOARDING, EXPLORE THE WORLD UNDERSEA—THEN COME BACK TO THESE CHIC RETREATS FOR SOME TRUE BEAUTY REST.

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Far left (bike), Rob Penn/Getty Images; Right, mphotoi.com.

Kohanaiki

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WHAT Snorkeling, Outrigger Canoeing, SUP, Golf WHERE

Big Island, Hawaii

STAY Kohanaiki The Kona Coast of Hawaii’s Big Island boasts some of America’s most pristine coral reefs. That alone makes it a prime destination for snorkeling and swimming, but when you add in the possibilities of spotting dolphins and sea turtles while underwater it becomes a true bucket-list item. The wide array of other adrenaline-inducing water adventures—think outings on the bright blue Pacific on Hawaiian outrigger canoes and sailing canoes, stand-up paddleboards, surfboards, and body boards, all available at the private 450-acre Kohanaiki Golf & Ocean Club—only adds to the instant appeal. Four years and $65 million in the making, the 67,000-square-foot

Kohanaiki Clubhouse and Spa— designed by Zak Architecture as a modern, elegant interpretation of Hawaii’s early huts—is worth the $150,000 membership initiation fee and $25,000 in annual dues associated with owning a home (from $3 million to $30 million; kohanaiki .com) in the private community. (The development does not have a hotel.) Eleven-plus miles of cedar decking promise unrestrained opportunity to enjoy the picture-perfect surroundings, but a chop house and sushi bar, cigar lounge, speakeasy Scotch bar, wine and cheese room, private brewery, four-lane bowling alley, movie theater, swimming pools, fitness center, and holistic spa entice guests inside, too.

Walls and flooring integrate natural stone, volcanic rock, and coral, all in line with the region’s natural landscape. The ultimate playground is also home to a library of rare Hawaiian literature, which is in good company with the museum-level gallery housing indigenous artifacts and art, including a collection of 11 signed navigation prints by great Hawaiian artist Herb Kane. The clubhouse also serves as the starting-off point for the club’s 18-hole, Rees Jones–designed golf course, where six holes border the ocean for spectacular views. —Kathryn Romeyn

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Left and middle Right, mphotoi.com; top right, Monica and Michael Sweet/Getty Images. Opposite: (Diver) Casper Douma.

Kohanaiki


Piet Boon Bonaire

WHAT Scuba Diving WHERE

Bonaire STAY Piet Boon Bonaire Fifty miles north of Venezuela, the 114-square-mile Caribbean island of Bonaire has been a sanctuary for divers ever since Captain Don Stewart, a pioneer of diving and reef conservation, arrived in 1962 and named most of the 86 easily accessible sites. One hundred percent of the waters and more than 20 percent of the island are a protected marine sanctuary and national park, which leads to a continued abundance of 350 recorded fish species and at least 57 species of coral in the pristine waters. While many Caribbean dive areas have been destroyed by overuse from fishing, recreation water sports, and high-rise development, Bonaire remains full of life, making every journey underwater remarkable. Book a weeklong stay and go straight from the plane to your first dive with VIP Diving (vipdiving.com). Allow its dive butler service to take you on private excursions with a maximum of four divers to Bonaire’s narrow fringing reef, which practically begins at the shoreline, making these the best 54 shore dives on the planet with easy access and entry. Head to Salt Pier and see the only Caribbean island that has salt mountains like snow. When there are no ships alongside, the area is some of the island’s best diving for spotting the chain moray eel. Take a few steps into the water, snorkel out in

the clear aquamarine sea, and descend near the pylons to visit large schools of fish as well as octopi, turtles, tarpon, barracuda, and Caribbean reef squid that gather there. The next day, visit the bright pink flamingos at Karpata or Gotomeer lagoon, and head to Tolo on the northern part of the island for leisurely dives with massive colorful sponges and corals including blade coral, purple finger sponge, star coral, and elephant ear sponges that make this dive site spectacular. The largest sponges are between 60 and 80 feet, but snorkelers will find coral in abundance as well as juvenile fish. Look for razor-sharp surgeonfish, scorpion fish, honeycomb cowfish, and flounders galore. The

water is warm (about 80 degrees all year), calm, and inviting. The Dutch island is home to Piet Boon Bonaire (from $3,500/week; pietboonbonaire.com), a collection of 10 freestanding villas named for its Amsterdam-based architect. Each is inspired by the traditional salt mine workers’ homes found on the island, but modernized with a cool gray-neutral palette, contemporary furnishings, high ceilings, and locally sourced materials including wood, coral, and partitions made of bonecolored pebbles and crisp white linens. Each has its own pool; half are located directly on the sea. w —Lisa Niver Spring 2017

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WHAT Swimming with Whale Sharks and Manta Rays WHERE

The Maldives

St. Regis

STAY Milaidhoo Island, St. Regis, and the Jumeirah Vittaveli From June to November each year, the world’s largest groupings of manta rays gather in Hanifaru Bay, within the jewel-toned UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of Baa Atoll. The peaceful aquatic giants—with wingspans that average 9 feet—don’t mind hosting visitors in the form of snorkelers and swimmers. (Elsewhere one can stand-up paddle above the rays as they swim.) Whale sharks are the other fantastical draw of this idyllic underwater sanctuary. The slow, gentle creatures are harmless to humans who can swim alongside them, and are staggering in size, reaching up to 40 feet. A trio of openings offers a variety of accommodations for design-lovers. Located over the warm turquoise waters of the Baa Atoll, couple-friendly boutique resort Milaidhoo Island (from $1,575; milaidhoo.com) offers an immersion in Maldivian everything, with 50 villas designed by local architect Mohamed Shafeeq that are outfitted

exclusively with indigenous materials, hand-selected and custom-made décor that represents breezy, barefoot Maldives style. Guests can also dine at the region’s only Maldivian-cuisine restaurant. The brand-new St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort (from $1,976; starwoodhotels.com)—where one can also snorkel with dolphins—is truly jaw-dropping, thanks to a natureinspired contemporary look by WOW Architects and Warner Wong Design that includes a bar shaped like a whale shark and honey-hued timber interiors that offset the azure of the atoll. Palatial luxury ensconces guests at Jumeirah’s The Royal Residence at Vittaveli (opening in March, from $25,800; jumeirah.com), an over-thetop three-villa, five-bedroom residence sleeping 10 adults and featuring meticulous butler service, sculptural bathtubs by Kelly Hoppen, two sandside pools, and a Nolte wine cellar holding vino valued at $100,000. —K.R.

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Jumeirah Vittaveli

Milaidhoo Island


Villa Naya

WHAT Kiteboarding, Kitesurfing WHERE

Paros, Greece

Middle right, Riccardo Chiades/iStock. Opposite: Left, Ullstein Bild/Getty Images; top right, have seen/iStock; bottom, Felix Hug.

Villa Athalia

STAY Bright Blue Villas On the sandy western shore of Paros, Pounda is famous for its strong meltemi winds, which blow sideonshore from mid-June to September in front of neighboring Antiparos, creating a Venturi effect as it squeezes between the two islands. These conditions are sought for kiteboarding and kitesurfing, and have made Paros one of the world’s premier destinations for the sports, not only for pros and advanced riders but beginners, too. The steady wind can result in up to one-mile rides on Aegean water that ranges from flat and clear to frothy and choppy. The concierge team for Bright Blue Villas (brightbluevillas .com)—a villa rental company that specializes in architectural gems not frequently found for rent through other companies—use their expertise to book guests with top local providers for lessons and access to ultimate kiteboarding experiences. Instead of a hotel room, opt for an authentic Greek trophy home like the award-winning Villa Naya (from $3,200/week). The minimalist sixbedroom villa carves into a sloping site on the western part of the island, using iconic white walls typical to the Cycladic landscape that marry natural outdoor vistas with contemporary spaces. Just steps from a stretch of famously fine golden sand is Villa Athalia (from $5,275/week), which combines Cycladic architecture with fresh all-white interiors by Malvina Sarantitis, and a vast pool dotted with clean-lined daybeds. Blue evil eyes, natural stone, and expansive outdoor dining and infinity pools are also featured at the new Villa Hailey (from $7,500/week) and Villa Primrose (from $5,275/week), which has great access to beaches including Pounda and includes a private chef. w —K.R. Spring 2017

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WHAT Muay Thai Boxing, Water Biking WHERE

Koh Samui, Thailand

The Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui

STAY Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui As Thailand’s national sport, muay thai, also known as Thai kickboxing, is the main event on the country’s second-largest island, Koh Samui— when one isn’t lazing on a palm-fringed beach, that is. Surely the world’s most breathtaking place to practice the so-called “art of eight limbs” is at Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui’s (from $813/night; fourseasons.com) new Bill Bensley–designed training ring, where instead of a sweaty gym enclosing boxers, participants are surrounded by sweeping vistas of the cerulean Gulf of Thailand and vibrant green jungle. Curious guests can dip a toe in with an intro session or mini boot

camp (there’s a kids’ class, too), while avid fans should opt for the immersive package that includes VIP tickets to a professional fight at Chaweng Boxing Stadium, where a pro will provide private commentary. Further training and matches are available all over the island, at countless specialized camps and rings. For the less combative, amphibious water bikes allow for leisurely pedals through the surf. Thanks to the ingenuity of worldfamous architect and landscape designer Bensley—whose new book, Escapism, explores some greatest hits— the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui has maximum aesthetic impact and

a minimal footprint. Guests can take a tour of his work—including the new CoCoRum 50-meter pool and beach bar, stilted villas decorated with local crafts and custom artwork, and the bromeliad-filled tamed jungle—guided by the head gardener, and admire one of his greatest accomplishments: retaining 856 original coconut trees, which penetrate pools, porches, and interiors for a “sublime” effect. —K.R.

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WHAT Heli-hiking, Snow Kitesurfing WHERE

Charlevoix, Québec Hotel Le Germain Charlevoix

Top left, Seven Had/iStock; top right, Jonathan Robert; inset, PeterShort/iStock. Opposite: Bottom right, Bill Beasley.

STAY Hotel Le Germain Charlevoix Charlevoix, a rugged and wild terrain, lies about 75 minutes from Québec City, where the Laurentian Mountains shadow the St. Lawrence River, a unique geography along the mighty river’s 744-mile corridor. A meteor is thought to have formed the narrow valley. Charlevoix was designated a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in 1988. The region is littered with discoveries such as stunted forests, rare sub-Arctic tundra ecosystems, and Le Germain Hôtel Charlevoix (from $152; legermainhotels.com). The 145-room property spreads across the footprint of what was once Canada’s largest wooden barn, which burned in 1997, scuttling Cirque du Soleil co-founder Daniel Gauthier’s vision to convert the barn into a hotel. Undaunted, Gauthier commissioned a five-building resort from LEMAYMICHAUD Architecture Design, a juxtaposed modern-bucolic ambience of barn doors, exposed steel, and accents shaped by Charlevoix artisans.

Héli Charlevoix (heli-charlevoix.com) whisks guests directly from the resort to Haute-Gorge-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park, where moose yearlings emerge from boreal forest marshlands, or to the mountain for a prepared picnic followed by a two-hour hike. World champion kitesurfer Catherine Dufour leads Suroît Aventures’ (suroitaventures.com) snow kitesurfing classes beside the hotel in spring and upon Baie-Saint-Paul come summer. Hôtel Charlevoix concierges will arrange river and sea kayaking and

guided hikes such as canyoning in Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive with premier local guides who depart directly from the resort. It’s best to plot one’s adventure while aboard the custom Train de Charlevoix, which conveys guests from Québec City along the sublime coastline directly to the hotel’s private station. w —Crai Bower Spring 2017

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WHAT River Rafting, Rock Climbing

Hotel Jerome

WHERE

Aspen, Colorado

Longer days, fewer tourists, and low room rates make spring an ideal time to visit Aspen. Mid-April, when the lifts stop turning and the snow starts melting, adrenaline junkies can hit the Roaring Fork River. Ride the Slaughterhouse Falls section for Class IV rapids or take on gentler waters in the Upper Fork and Middle Fork. Half-day trips (aspenwhitewater.com) include all gear, hotel pickup, and snacks or lunch. At Independence Pass, Colorado’s highest paved highway that summits the Continental Divide at 12,095 feet, the gate opens to cars just before Memorial Day, revealing a high-alpine playground with rock faces for climbers, abandoned mining towns for history buffs, and miles of trails for hikers. Interpretive

guided excursions (aspennature.org) introduce hikers to flora, fauna, and history along key treks such as the Grottos Trail and the Lost Man trail, an 8.8-mile hike (one way) that delivers see-forever views from the top of the pass. For those willing to climb higher, many of Colorado’s 58 fourteeners, including the tallest (Mount Elbert), are within reach of Aspen. Head to the summit with an experienced guide (aspenalpineguides.com), necessary during the spring when parts of the trail are snow-covered. Before setting out, climbers partake in a pre-hike training day to assess fitness levels and mountaineering skills. Off the mountain, the historic (1889) Hotel Jerome (from $360; hoteljerome .com) makes a comfortable basecamp.

A renovation in 2012 added a new restaurant, a living room–style lounge, and a spa. The work of interior designer Todd-Avery Lenahan of TAL-Studio, Las Vegas, and Aspen-based architects Rowland + Broughton preserved the hotel’s original details, notably the Chippendale chinoiserie bar of the iconic J-Bar, a casual spot for a posthike burger and brew. The hotel’s 93 rooms are chic and airy with burnished leather bed frames, cashmere curtains, and mountain views. In December, the hotel plans to unveil eight units in the adjacent Aspen Times Building. w —Kim Fredericks

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Robert Cicchetti/iStock; bottom right, Ozgurdonmaz/iStock .

STAY Hotel Jerome


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The Ranch at Rock Creek

WHAT Snowga, Horseback Riding WHERE

Montana

The Ranch at Rock Creek (from $900; theranchatrockcreek.com), south of Glacier National Park, found a way to improve on both yoga and snowshoeing with snowga, which blends the active practices with meditation for a total mind-body experience. Think vigorous climbing to a snowy mountaintop for frontierthemed standing poses like Mountain, Eagle, and Warrior, then a guided nature trek back to “civilization” for an essential oils workshop and hot tea. Horseback riding is another way to soak up Montana’s big skies, sagebrush-dotted hills, and miles of picturesque trails, suited to all skill levels. Santa Fe–based designer Jet Zarkadas had the enviable job of transforming a 19th-century homestead and cattle ranch into a lavish resort worthy of five stars while retaining its authentic charm. The area’s culture and heritage influenced the design, seen in early snapshots of frontier life from the Montana Historical Society that dot walls, woven Navajo

rugs and throws, antler accents and cowhides, and local antiques like a vintage blue stove at the heart of the indoor/outdoor Blue Canteen dining space. Due to regular estatesale shopping, the spaces—from canvas cabins to a converted barn— are constantly evolving. The latest update features John Deere tractor parts repurposed in a kitchen façade, rare US Cavalry tack, tintypes of Western movie stars, and rodeo buckle collections. w —K.R.

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Middle, Gordon Gregory

STAY The Ranch at Rock Creek


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WHAT Mountain Trekking, Hiking, Biking WHERE

Sri Lanka

STAY Santani As an island, Sri Lanka is ringed in sandy beaches and surfable teal waves, but much of the real adventure is found in its interior. Around the last ancient capital of Kandy is a mountainous, bio-diverse rainforest ready to be explored by foot or mountain bike. Dozens of hikes and trails wind through the emerald-tinged region, providing beginner to advanced challenges that may weave through tea estates or pause for refreshingly icy waterfall showers or river bathing. Some of Sri Lanka’s 400-plus bird species also make appearances. Take a full day to summit Gombaniya, the Everest of the remote Knuckles Mountain Range. The range is part of the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s impossible to miss the mountains when staying in one of Santani’s

(from $352; santani.lk) airy stilted villas, inspired by both 16th-century Tampita Vihara architecture and caves—they have just one open side (in this case, floor-to-ceiling glass revealing the dramatic landscape) to minimize peripheral stimulation during meditation and turn guests’ focus to 48 acres of nearly untouched nature. Sri Lankan architect Thisara Thanapathy created luxurious Amanstyle minimalism with an eco-friendly footprint at the Ayurvedic-based wellness retreat and spa —the main building’s floor is pine wood salvaged from a tea factory, and there is no air conditioning or need for it—with the purpose of creating a spacious indoor-outdoor environment (even the spa suites have only three walls) that breeds ultimate calm and relaxation. —K.R.

40 Spring 2017

Top right, Steven Greaves/Getty Images; far right, Geography Photographs/UIG/Getty Images; middle, Rob Penn/Getty Images.

Santani


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Clockwise from top: Ett Hem; At Six; Lamino chair by Yngve Ekström; Design House Stockholm; Malmstenbutiken.

STOCKHOLM History

Developed during WWII, minimalist, engineerdriven Scandinavian design has been beloved since its emergence on the national stage, and for some 60 years, Sweden has been one of the driving forces. Ikea is far from the jewel on the country’s crown: Dozens of makers fashion functional, forward-thinking furniture, including innovator Monica Förster, Thomas Bernstrand (who created the prizewinning Gobble coat rack and People armchair), Yngve Ekström with his iconic Lamino chair (recently done in denim with Sweden’s Nudie jeans), Nisse Strinning’s String shelving system, and the brand Norrgavel, whose simple, eco-friendly designs meld Swedish, American Shaker, and Japanese wabisabi influences. When it comes to rugs, Kasthall is a world leader, and for surreal, vibrant textiles, search for those by late architect Josef Frank, an Austrian who adopted Swedish citizenship for the second half of his life and paved the way for Finland’s Marimekko.

Bottom left, Jonas Lindström

Shopping Find Frank’s cheerful fabrics, along with

his tables, candelabras, lighting, and vases (among other designers) at Svenskt Tenn (svenskttenn.se) in the city center, where you could spend all day not just shopping and outfitting your home but lingering over a drink in the Tea Room. It’s walking distance from Design House Stockholm’s flagship (designhousestockholm.com), which stocks furniture and home accessories by contemporary and classic homegrown designers, and Illums Bolighus (illumsbolighus .com), where a number of local names are represented via sleek and sculptural stunners and all the stylish Swedish accoutrements one could want. Find authentic craftsmen like Lies-Marie Hoffmann (l-mh.com) working with wood and their hands in the forested Småland region south of Stockholm, known as the Kingdom of Furniture and the Kingdom of Crystal.

Where to Stay In the heart of the best design

shopping, At Six (from $210; hotelatsix.com)—opening March 23—represents its neighborhood aesthetic well. Born out of a 19th-century socialite haven, the Brunkebergstorg hotel is all about elegant, contemporary art and design. Guests can enjoy the property’s extensive, high-level collection of international Swedish art (see well-known Stockholm photographer Dawid and commissioned mirror-based works by Malmö-based Kristina Matousch) within its walls—as well as follow its Sune Nordgren–curated Stockholm Art & Design self-guided tour around the city For a more boutique experience, Ett Hem (from $400; etthem.se) appeals to the design-minded with 12 perfectly curated Scandinavian-style rooms from Londonbased Ilse Crawford. The hotel is fashioned from a 1910 private home and is nestled in a residential neighborhood, only slightly removed from the city’s action. Guests have exclusive access to the private garden, restaurant, and common areas, some of the chicest spaces in the city. w —Kathryn Romeyn Spring 2017 43


Clockwise from top center: Kohchosai Kosuga; Hoshinoya Kyoto; Four Seasons Kyoto; The RitzCartlton Kyoto tempura mizuki chef; Kohchosai Pottery Collection; Kohchosai Copenhagen Collection; Kaikado objects collections.

KYOTO, JAPAN

History With some 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto Shrines—17 of them UNESCO World Heritage Sites—Kyoto remains Japan’s cultural capital. Nestled around three rivers in a valley surrounded by bambooshrouded mountains, the city radiates a Zen-like atmosphere of calm and beauty. But Kyoto has become ground zero for the country’s cuttingedge design spurred by an influx of international artisans and nascent but burgeoning high-tech industries, which have brought new panache to the city’s millennial-old traditions.

Shopping Kyoto Handmade (japan-handmade.com) is a collaboration with Danish Design Studio OeO and local craftsmen from six local companies to bring innovative international panache to ancient Kyoto craftsmanship. Check out the chrysanthemum shades blending traditional kyo-kanaami (metal knitting) with contemporary lighting design at Kanaami-Tsuji (kanaamitsuji.net) or the Scando-sleek silver or brass teapots using Edo-era techniques at the Kaikado teaware shop (kaikado .jp/english). Mix Japan’s 10,000-year-old bamboo working techniques with a modern eye and you get cutlery that looks like it was designed by Calder or funky Dr. Seuss–like baskets in Kyoto’s venerable Kohchosai Kosuga’s flagship boutique (kohchosai.co.jp). Set in a funkily redesigned 120-year-old home in the heart of the Gion District, Pass the Baton (passthe-baton.com) is a high-end consignment shop, recyclable design gallery, and hip café that blends Kyoto’s ancient and modernistic vibe.

Where to Stay

The Ritz-Carlton ($845/night; ritzcarlton.com) opened Kyoto’s first ultra-luxury hotel in 2014 on the Kamogawa River with a small stream that runs right through the lobby. The hotel offers imaginative classes on local craftsmanship including Zen garden design, and a resident hike and bike master to explore the surrounding temples and mountains. Opened in October, the Four Seasons (from $650/night; fourseasons .com ) incorporates renowned design firm HBA’s understated elegance such as cypress wood rooms and lobbies lined with enormous windows framing the hotel’s 800-year-old pond garden in the midst of the Higashiyama District. A Park Hyatt is slated for completion in 2019, but as the well-known international brands make their debuts, established Japanese luxury brands offer travelers a truly authentic experience. Hoshinoya Kyoto (from $713; hoshinoyakyoto.jp/en), previously a 100-year-old ryokan, was completed in 2009 and features furnishings from local artisans, traditional gardens with a pond and waterfall, and a spa with treatments based on Zen Buddhism. w —Finn Olaf-Jones 44 Spring 2017


Spring 2017 45


This page, clockwise from top left: Tai Modern; Heidi Loewen Porcelain Gallery & School; LewAllen Galleries; Rosewood Inn. Opposite page, counterclockwise from top right: The Strand; lacquerware; lotus weaving; Belmond Governor’s Residence.

SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO

History More than a thousand years ago, Ancestral Puebloans built

adobe houses and created elegant pottery that continues to influence the look and art of Santa Fe today. The Spanish colonial culture brought woodcarving, tinwork, and religious art, and luminaries like Georgia O’Keeffe focused worldwide attention on the natural beauty that inspired her art. Today, little Santa Fe is the third-largest art market in the United States, and the population is rich in artists and designers.

Shopping In the Railyard Arts District, LewAllen Galleries

(lewallengalleries.com) carries three top New Mexico landscape artists: John Fincher, Forrest Moses, and Woody Gwyn. At TAI Modern (taimodern.com), there’s a breathtaking collection by Fujinuma Noboru and Katsushiro Soho, who are living national treasures of bamboo art. Blue Rain Gallery (blueraingallery.com) specializes in regional contemporary artists such as Preston Singletary, Jim Vogel, and Doug West. And William Siegal Gallery (williamsiegal.com) carries high-end antiques from Latin America, some of which are 5,000 years old. Downtown, Heidi Loewen Porcelain Gallery & School (heidiloewen .com) sells one-of-a-kind smoked porcelain platters and sculptures, and all collectors are offered a free, private pottery-making class. Master goldsmith Marc Howard (marc-howard.com), a jeweler’s jeweler, specializes in custom and one-of-a-kind fine jewelry design, featuring high-karat metals, diamonds, and colored gems. And Patina Gallery (patina-gallery.com), a world-class boutique for one-of-a-kind jewelry, offers handcrafted pieces by the finest designers in Santa Fe and Europe. Head to Designs of Erika (designsoferika.com) for Swedish-designed totes and bags as elegant as they are affordable.

Where to Stay Downtown, where the action is. Rosewood Inn

(from $236; rosewoodhotels.com) of the Anasazi features traditional elements of adobe construction like kiva fireplaces, vigas, and latillas in each guest room. And Inn of the Five Graces (from $335; fivegraces.com), on a l7th-century street, celebrates the Old West and antiques from the Silk Road. —Judith Fein

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MYANMAR

History If any one craft is synonymous with Myanmar it’s lacquerware,

a centuries-old practice in which artisans painstakingly—over the course of months—apply layer upon layer of resin from the thitsi tree over handshaped bamboo pieces in family-owned workshops around the ancient city of Bagan. Tea sets, lunch boxes, urns, and furniture are all options, each of which has been carefully sanded and etched with exquisite scenes and stories. Antique shops even sell lacquerware wrapped in gold leaf. For 100 years, Inle Lake’s entrepreneurial residents have been expertly weaving not only with silk or cotton threads but with nearly invisible fibers hand-pulled from the stems of pink (only pink) lotus flowers. Colorful textiles—both woven and stitched—are another traditional craft. Mother-of-pearl, jade (which promises good health), and teak show up on silverware, abounding flowers are used to create handmade paper lanterns, and it’s impossible to avoid the hand-carved wooden figurines, representing Buddha, deities, animals, or nature.

Shopping For lacquerware it’s best to go to the source: a Bagan-

Middle, Sam Spicer/Shutterstock

area workshop. Only there—and in fine boutiques and antique shops— can you be sure of the quality. The same goes for lotus weaving. Hire a private local boat for next to nothing and shop the floating villages. At markets such as Bogyoke Aung San in Yangon one can find a plethora of woodcarving, textiles, and decorative handicrafts, but it’s best to go with a specific purpose as the sheer size can be overwhelming. In Yangon, fair-trade social enterprise Pomelo for Myanmar (pomeloformyanmar.org) boutique sells a rich array of contemporary-style, locally made textiles, décor, tableware, and accessories with explanations of the processes and stories of the disadvantaged groups who made them, and benefit from their sale.

Where to Stay Yangon’s recently reopened luxury property The

Strand (from $335; hotelthestrand.com) features a brand-new firstfloor boutique stocking lacquerware, textiles, and silverware made by local craftsmen and entrepreneurs. Belmond Governor’s Residence (from $290; belmond.com) is an elegant, colonial-style temporary home from which to explore Yangon, while Myanmar Treasure Resorts (from $75; myanmartreasureresorts.com) in Inle Lake and Bagan are perfectly charming jumping-off points for shopping on the water or amid thousands of pagodas. w —K.R. Spring 2017

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Clockwise from top left: Everfresh Studio; QT Melbourne; Craft Victoria; Mondopiero; Tait rocker; Guild of Objects.

MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA

History Considered the design capital of Australia, Melbourne is

an emerging hub for industrial innovations and also for contemporary architectural and interior creations. It’s not just in the painted laneways that creatives express themselves. Unique made-in-Australia goods range from minimalist and modern—like Henry Wilson’s cast-bronze light sconces—to Aboriginal-influenced, like the intricate, colorful, digitally printed fabrics and wallpaper designed by Willie Weston in conjunction with remote indigenous community art centers. These textiles are often applied to contemporary furniture or furnishings, adding color to an oftentimes neutral palette—take Tait’s mod white outdoor furnishings or the leather Longreach Sofa by Anibou, with Tasmanian sassafras legs. When it comes to décor, there are artists and ceramists abounding: Watch out for names like local Richard Stringer and Mornington Peninsula–based Kaz Morton.

Shopping The edgy up-and-coming Collingwood neighborhood is

gaining momentum as Melbourne’s design hub. It’s where a new Anibou (anibou.com.au) showroom features the label’s own furniture alongside Scandinavian labels and local makers like Tomahawk Studios, with their minimalist Campfire Coffee Table, and the urban graffiti gallery Everfresh Studio (everfreshstudio.com) behind an unmarked factory door. For splashy ceramics and other objets d’art, shop North Melbourne’s Guild of Objects (guildofobjects.com), promoting the new generation of Australian makers, and Craft Victoria (craft.org.au), a nonprofit organization representing and supporting local craftspeople with exhibitions and retail programs. Mondopiero (mondopiero.com.au) in Fitzroy—a hip, bohemian shopping district—stocks and showcases 4,000-plus square feet of impressive homewares, art, and furniture by artisans with a distinct voice and refined skill.

Where to Stay In the fashion district known as the Paris End, QT

Melbourne (from $350; qthotelsandresorts.com) is a brand-new designdriven boutique hotel by acclaimed architect Angelo Candalepas, along with QT’s longstanding collaborators Nic Graham, Shelley Indyk, and Amanda Love. It’s packed with bespoke details that play off an industrial minimalism theme (rooftop furniture by Tait), custom designs by locals James Beattie and Patsy Payne, and a curated collection of contemporary digital and video art. Speaking of, the QT offers street art tours, guided by an artist from Blender Studios, the heart of Melbourne’s early underground movement. w —K.R.

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Spring 2017 49

Middle left, Lindsey Rendelli; bottom left, Haydn Cattach.


History

There hasn’t been this much buzz about Mexico City since Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera shocked the art world with their radical work and tumultuous love affair. Today, Mexico City is again becoming one of the world’s most exciting art destinations. Designers and art collectors flock to Design Week Mexico (October 4–8, 2017; designweekmexico .com) to see work from the newest young talent. And Mexico City has been named World Design Capital 2018 by the World Design Organization (WDC). Swing through Museo Nacional de Arte to get an overview of Mexican art—gilded icons, lush textiles, ornate silverwork, and a large collection of Rivera’s paintings. Marvel at the play of color and geometry at Casa Luis Barragán, home of the celebrated architect. Skip over to the sawtooth-roofed, David Chipperfield–designed Museu Jumex (the fruit-juice tycoon’s amazing contemporary art) and Fernando Romero’s futuristic, aluminum-clad Museo Soumaya (houses billionaire Carlos Slim’s collection—from Rodin to Mexican surrealism).

Shopping For beautiful furniture, visit Pirwi (pirwi.com). See

midcentury (mostly wood) designs at LCMX (lc-mx.com), where the lighting really shines. The Dante armchair with hand-burned patina at Paul Roco (paulroco.com) is worth the trip. For art by some of Mexico’s best-knowns, up-and-comings, and the most hip openings in town, Kurimanzutto (kurimanzutto.com).

Where to Stay Overnight at trend-setting Habita’s Downtown

Mexico (from $375; downtownmexico.com), a grand 17th-century palace furnished in a minimal, midcentury look by Paul Roco. —Irene Rawlings

50 Spring 2017

Top left, Udine Pröhl; bottom, Simon Menges. Opposite: Top, Matthew Williams; middle and bottom, Explore Charleston.

MEXICO CITY, MEXICO


Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Habita’s Downtown Mexico; Paul Roco’s Dante armchair; Pirwi; Museo Jumex. This page, from top: Dewberry Hotel; Charleston Battery Bench; sweetgrass basket from Charleston City Market.

CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA History

Charleston’s charming neighborhood pockets and pristine architecture are enough to make any design enthusiast swoon. One of the best ways to discover its secret alleyways, formal gardens, and antebellum mansions is by foot, meandering along the cobblestone streets that offer galleries, antiques, and, of course, Southern hospitality.

Shopping A part of Charleston’s culture since the early 1800s, the

Charleston City Market (thecharlestoncitymarket.com) is the city’s most visited attraction, where tourists and locals alike shop for locally made goods. One of the most sought-after treasures of the Lowcountry are the hand-woven sweetgrass baskets, a handicraft that West African slaves brought to South Carolina in the 17th century. The sturdy, intricate baskets were coiled using indigenous grasses for agricultural purposes (mainly rice cultivation), and today, it is one of the oldest art forms of African origin in the United States. The historic City Market is an epicenter for this centuries-old tradition, with more than 50 resident basket weavers. Near the market in downtown, Charleston Crafts (charlestoncrafts .org) is the only exclusively local craft gallery, owned and operated by exhibiting members. The fine crafters that make up the juried cooperative must be residents of South Carolina and must have achieved a high level of artistic vision. Collections on view and available for purchase include works by glass artists, woodworkers, metal smiths, jewelry makers, and ceramic artists. King Street is the city’s retail and commerce hub. Check out Ro Sham Beaux (ro-sham-beaux.com) for its bohemian-meets-Southern eclectic finds. Ibu Movement (ibumovement.com) supports women becoming economically self-sufficient around the world; their Charleston flagship showcases 71 global artisan groups. Mitchell Hill (mitchellhillinc.com) is the go-to for more than 20 local and regional artists. Geo C. Birlant & Co (birlant.com) is one of the oldest antiques establishments in the Southeast. The famous Charleston Battery Bench is made here, with its cast-iron sides made from the original molds (circa 1880) that can be seen on Charleston’s Battery. Beyond King Street, look to Fritz Porter (fritzporter.com), whose interior design and antiques showroom is located in the historic cigar factory downtown, and Acquisitions (acquisitionsinteriors.com) on Bay Street for its decorative accessories.

Where to Stay The newly opened Dewberry Hotel (from

$369; thedewberrycharleston.com) features 155 rooms inside a former midcentury modern federal building. The property has teamed up with locally based Garden & Gun magazine to offer Fieldshop, a specialty boutique offering Southern wares with a focus on high-quality craftsmanship. w —Natalie Bloomingdale Spring 2017

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Top left, Banyan Tree Lijiang; bottom right, Amandayan.

LIJIANG, CHINA History

Bordering Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar at China’s southeastern extreme, Yunnan province is home to a veritable kaleidoscope of ethnic groups: Bai, Dai, Lisu, Lahu, and Wa among them. Each boasts unique artisanal traditions on display in and around Lijiang’s Old Town, a vital stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, the little-known trade route from Tibet that dates to the Tang Dynasty and once rivaled the Silk Road.

Shopping Ringed by the snow-capped Himalayas, the 800-plus-yearold UNESCO World Heritage Site is stealthily gaining a reputation among discerning textile and craft aficionados. Lijiang’s enchanting maze of cobblestone streets and meandering canals crisscrossed by 354 bridges boasts tiny storefronts filled with the impossibly intricate embroideries of native Naxi people and their rustic-chic black clay pottery. Look closely, too, for vibrant, tie-dyed tablecloths from the Bai minority and eminently wearable jackets embellished with highly stylized Miao embroidery. A 10-minute drive leads to Baisha village and its ornately carved copper pots, while neighboring Shuhe boasts a 1,000-year reputation for its sophisticated leather goods.

Where to Stay Some of the finest enchanting crafts can be

found in the curated boutiques at Banyan Tree Lijiang (from $212; banyantree.com), a 124-room compound meticulously rendered in Naxi style with upturned phoenix rooflines and high-walled courtyards, and at Amandayan (from $510; amanresorts.com), where the revered Indonesian designer Jaya Ibrahim endowed all 35 serene suites with Lijiang’s exceptional indigenous handiwork. —Cynthia Rosenfeld

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Her: Jacket ($2,400) and pants ($575), Porsche Design, porschedesign.com. Shirt, James Perse, $95, jamesperse.com. Shoes, Christian Louboutin, $995, christianlouboutin.com.

Spring 2017

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Petersen Automotive Museum (these pages and previous). Exterior by Kohn Pedersen Fox Associates. A 100-ton stainless-steel ribbon wraps the structure (part of a $90 million renovation that was completed in 2015), which houses 25 galleries and over 100 vehicles and automotive artifacts.

Her: Jacket ($795), dress ($975), and visor (price upon request), Max Mara, maxmara.com. Shoes, Christian Louboutin, $995, christianlouboutin.com. Watch, Dior, $4,250, dior.com. Bag, Bottega Veneta, $1,600, 800.845.6790. Him: Jacket ($325), shirt ($225), and shorts ($225), Vince, vince.com. Shoes, Nike, $90, nike.com. Watch, Zenith, $8,000, zenith-watches.com, available at Westime, westime.com.

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Her: Dress, TSE Cashmere, $1,150, tsecashmere.com. Earrings, H. Stern, $2,500, hstern.net. Him: Jacket, Porsche Design, $835, porsche-design.com.

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Miracle Mile, Robert Irwin, 2013, Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA). These 66 florescent tubes can be seen 24/7 from the city’s Miracle Mile through floor-to-ceiling windows that separate the piece from Irwin’s outdoor Primal Palm Garden installation. Colored gels wrap each bulb in the 36foot lightwork, gifted for the museum’s 50th anniversary. 58

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Cape, Vionnet, $2,395, vionnet.com. Watches, Dior, $4,250, each, dior.com.

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Walt Disney Concert Hall, Frank Gehry, 1991 (completed in 2003). If fundraising efforts had been more successful, this downtown icon would have been swathed in limestone like architect’s Gehry’s original design. Now an icon of contemporary architecture, the building features 6,500 stainlesssteel panels that subtly reflect the city’s dramatic sunrises and sunsets.

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Opposite: Jumpsuit, Ralph Lauren, $3,990, ralphlauren .com. Camera, Olympus, $1,100, getolympus.com. Watch, Dior $4,250, dior.com. This page: Jacket, Berluti, $6,150, berluti.com. Shirt, Calvin Klein, $14, calvinklein.com.

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These pages and next: Walt Disney Concert Hall, Frank Gehry, 1991 (completed in 2003). Just behind Grand Avenue, the Blue Ribbon Garden is a rare public green space downtown. The shady rooftop includes edible plantings used by the building’s Patina restaurant chefs.

Her: Dress, CĂŠdric Charlier, $1,990, cedric-charlier.com. Shoes, Cloud Footwear, $120, cloud-footwear.com. Him: Jacket, Outerknown, $245, outerknown.com. Shirt, NSF, $98, nsfclothing.com. Pants, Katin, $69, katinusa.com. Shoes, Billy Reid, $395, billyreid.com. Watch, Carl F. Bucherer, $7,100, carl-f-bucherer.com, available at Westime, westime.com.

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Him: Suit, Hugo Boss, $2,295, hugoboss .com. Shirt, Onia, $85, onia.com. Shoes, Billy Reid, $395, billyreid.com. Her: Dress, Prabal Gurung, $1,195, prabalgurung.com. Sweater, Adeam, $595, adeam.com. Shoes, Nike, $100, nike.com.


Top ($1,095) and pants ($1,095), Narciso Rodriguez, narcisorodriguez.com. Shoes, Paul Andrew, price upon request, paulandrew.com. Bag, Goyard, $3,800, goyard.com. Bracelet ($8,100) and rings ($2,500), Roberto Coin, robertocoin.com.

Hammer Museum, Billy Wilder Theater, Michael Maltzan Architecture, 2006. Inside the theater, the architect designated a silver seat among a sea of raspberrycolored ones as “Billy’s Chair,” where Wilder would typically sit during screenings.

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Walt Disney Concert Hall, A Rose for Lilly, Frank Gehry, 2003. For the construction of this mosaic-tile fountain, Gehry and his team broke more than 200 vases and 8,000 tiles of Royal Delft porcelain, beloved by Lillian Disney who launched the concert hall project in 1987 with a $50 million donation.

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Jacket, ($6,595) skirt ($1,645), bag ($1,795), Brunello Cucinelli, brunellocucinelli.com. Shirt, Onia, $85, onia.com. Shoes, Nike, $100, nike.com. Sunglasses, Michael Kors, $275, michaelkors.com.

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Urban Light, Chris Burden, 2008, Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA). The installation’s 202 working cast-iron, antique street lamps were individually restored and shipped to the museum. The work appears over 2,500 times per month in photographs on Instagram.

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Smoke, Tony Smith, 1967, fabricated 2005, edition 1/3, Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA). Created posthumously from the American sculptor’s designs, the 24-foot installation joins 45 octahedrons of painted aluminum. From February 26 to July 2, LACMA’s Tony Smith’s “Smoke” exhibition traces the work’s decades-long evolution.

Opposite: Top ($3,225) and pants ($3,675), Brunello Cucinelli, brunellocucinelli.com. Shoes, Bottega Veneta, price upon request, 800.845.6790. Bag, Goyard, $7,600, goyard.com. This page: Jacket ($435) and pants ($180), Theory, theory.com. Shirt, James Perse, $145, jamesperse.com. Shoes, Berluti, $1,610, berluti.com. Watch, Rolex, $8,100, rolex.com. Spring 2017 69


Mark Hagen, To Be Titled (Additive Sculpture, Los Angeles Screen), 2012, Hammer Museum. Near the base of the museum’s grand marble staircase, the geometric steel and cement work remains from the 2012 biennial Made in L.A. exhibit.

Jacket ($2,300) and pants ($790), Bottega Veneta, 800.845.6790. Shirt, Katin, $39, katinusa.com. Shoes, Christian Louboutin, $795, christianlouboutin.com. Watch, Carl F. Bucherer, $7,100, carl-f-bucherer. com, available at Westime, westime.com.

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Pedro & Juana, 2016, Hammer Museum. This installation of fuzzy yellow lanterns came on the occasion of the museum’s 2016 gala and remain as a colorful installation today.

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Dress, 3.1 Phillip Lim, $995, 31philliplim.com. Shoes, Pierre Hardy, $795, pierrehardy.com. Bag, Sophie Hulme, $975, sophiehulme.com. Cuff, Ippolita, $25,000, ippolita.com. Ring, Boucheron, $4,010, boucheron.com. Spring 2017

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Heatherwick Studio chairs, 2015, Hammer Museum. Furnishing the museum’s courtyard is a group of circular chairs from the 2015 exhibition Provocations: The Architecture and Design of Heatherwick Studio. Made of rotational molded polyethylene, they are available for sale ($766) in purple, gray, red, and white at the museum’s store.

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Her: Dress, Cinq Ă Sept, $465, cinqasept.nyc. Sweater, TSE Cashmere, $850, tsecashmere .com. Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti, $895, giuseppezanottidesign.com. Earrings, H. Stern, $9,900, hstern.net. Him: Shirt ($98) and pants ($198), Citizens of Humanity, citizensofhumanity.com. Shoes, Muji, $34, muji.com.

Hair RIAD AZAR Makeup PAUL BLANCH

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VEHICLES

DESIGN TALKS AS CHARISMATIC AS THEY ARE DIVERSE, THESE NINE DESIGN DIRECTORS FROM CAR, AVIATION, AND SHIP MANUFACTURERS AROUND THE WORLD SHARE WHAT IT’S LIKE TO CREATE TODAY’S MOST COMPELLING VEHICLES. by SHAUN TOLSON 76

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Bottom right, Gilles Martin-Raget


EMBRAER JAY BEEVER – Vice President of Interior Design Melbourne, Florida How would you describe your job? I’m working directly with customers, who are working with our team to trim their brand-new airplane. I’m also working with interior development teams to sculpt the canvases of future Embraer planes for the next 5 or 10 years. How did you get into aeronautical design? Aerospace was an accident for me, even though I always had a passion for airplanes. I started at Ford in 1993 as a CAD designer working on dashboards and interior instrument panels for the Mercury Villager. In 2007, Gulfstream was looking for someone to take charge of the new G650 interior designs, so I left my position at Ford as a production and concept vehicles designer and entered the aerospace industry. I came to Embraer in 2012. How do you work? To make an aircraft interior relevant for years down the road, we hide as much of the technology as we can—control panels are located under lids on the ledges, for example. That allows us to make the interior’s craftsmanship and design the focal point. We created a concept aircraft, the Kyoto Airship (shown below), which was designed for a hypothetical Japanese customer who wanted to sit on the floor while dining like he would at home. We also enlarged the windows, completely changing the viewpoint of what luxury is. It’s not just rearranging the interior, it’s penetrating the skin of the exterior to bring nature in. Where do you find inspiration? I deliberately try to find inspiration outside of the aerospace industry. Furniture and automobiles are a huge inspiration, and Instituto Inhotim is a special place. It’s an outdoor contemporary museum in Brazil that takes advantage of the landscape and features many contemporary buildings that showcase metaphoric abstract works of art inside. The Embraer design team visited the museum and it helped to influence our perspective. What does the future hold for Embraer? We’re going to see more emphasis on letting nature in. With the Kyoto Airship, I believe that we broke the paradigm that suggested that future aircraft will feature LCD screens without windows. I think the future will be defined more by injecting ourselves into our environment rather than protecting ourselves from it.


DUCATI ANDREA FERRANESI – Director of Design Studio Bologna, Italy How would you describe your job? We have some golden rules that we follow to design any new bike, and I have to make sure that any new motorcycle is following those rules. Basically, every motorcycle has to have a sporty design with adrenaline. It must be muscular, aggressive, ready to race, and ready to compete. How did you get into motorcycle design? In school, my dream was to become an architect, but then I fell in love with airplanes, so I became an aeronautical engineer. In 2000, I had the opportunity to come back to my first love, which was design, and I joined Ducati as a product manager in the mechanical design department and managed all the superbike projects. In 2005, there was a big reorganization in Ducati, and the current CEO asked me to lead the design studio. How do you work? Each morning, I love to arrive earlier than anyone else, enter the studio, switch on only a few lights, and check the motorcycle and design process almost in the dark. This is a good way to discover if I’m satisfied with a new motorcycle design. You have to be focused on the proportion, and in full light your eye tends to find every detail. It’s fundamental to start with good proportion and then create good shapes. Where do you find inspiration? We go to all motorcycle trade fairs in Europe and sometimes outside of Europe, and we look to the automotive field for inspiration in terms of finishing and electronics and lighting. But our main source of inspiration is Massimo Tamburini,

who died two years ago. He created the Ducati 916. All the current and past Ducati superbikes have derived from that masterpiece. What does the future hold for Ducati? We always intend to create a motorcycle that is lighter than the previous one, so we’re always finding new ways to build beautiful engine parts that won’t be covered up by plastic panels, because those add weight and are ugly. We’re also thinking about what an electric Ducati motorcycle will look like, and when the technology is available and at the right cost, we will begin experimenting with this type of motorcycle. w

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WALLY

LUCA BASSANI ANTIVARI – President and CEO Monaco How would you describe your job? I oversee all design activity, not only the style of the yachts but on the technical side, too. How did you get into yacht design? My family owned different boats when I was growing up, and I loved designing boats as a child. I was a boat fanatic. After we sold the family’s global electrical components company in 1989, I designed the first custom yacht for my young family, Wallygator, which was unlike any other yacht. Following the success of this yacht, five years later, I decided to start a business to promote this new generation of boat. How do you work? As soon as I’m free from the typical administrative tasks, I work on designs with the rest of the design team. Whenever I start a new design, I think that the boat will be mine and then I try to imagine how I would like to live all the different situations on board. As a captain, you always think about how to moor, how to cope with bad weather at sea, the problems of maintenance, as well as how the crew can circulate on board serving the guests without disturbing them. Designing a boat for a skipper or helmsman means I must consider the layout of the cockpit to improve maneuvres, the layout of the interiors to reduce the weight of the boat—everything possible to make the boat faster. Where do you find inspiration? I’ve always admired Nathanael Herreshoff as a naval architect and engineer. He was very innovative and followed the concept of form for function. I also grew up admiring many iconic boats like the sailing yacht Windward Passage and the motor yacht Tramontana. I was especially drawn to their expression of power and speed and the outlaw way of thinking that was needed to design them. What does the future hold for Wally? In the powerboats and motor yachts category, we are working on a revolutionary hull that will dramatically improve the comfort and the performances of boats ranging in size from 26 feet to 262 feet. w

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Top left, Gilles Martin-Raget; bottom left, Guy Gurney; top right, Kurt Arrigo; bottom right, Fly Pictures.


INDIAN MOTORCYCLE CO. GREG BREW – Director of Industrial Design Medina, Minnesota How would you describe your job? As the director of industrial design for Polaris Industries, I may spend part of my day working on Indian motorcycles, but also reviewing CAD designs for a snowmobile or contributing to a bunch of military projects. It’s not a peaceful place, but it’s fascinating. How did you get into motorcycle design? My dad owned a couple of bikes when I was younger. I remember being about 5 years old, sitting on his Triumph Bonneville out in the backyard and making motorcycle noises. That’s a big part of where my motorcycle imagination came from. When I graduated from Art Center College of Design in Pasadena, California, designing a car was an itch that I had to scratch, so I started in Fiat Auto S.p.A. in Italy, worked for Lancia, then moved to BMW AG and spent eight years there. How do you work? When we decided to bring back the Scout, we had to distill down what it was that made that bike famous. We decided that what was important about the old Scouts was how simple they were. That raised the question, how do we make a modern bike that still feels that simple? As we redesigned the Scout, the whole time we were looking backward at old Scouts and also forward at concept bikes that we had designed. Where do you find inspiration? One source of inspiration is hot rods and other forms of Americana, and we also regularly check out custom bikes. There are guys out there using things in different ways, and there are always ideas that come from that that are really fun. What does the future hold for Indian? We have a lot of tricks up our sleeves, and we’ll be in categories that we haven’t been in before. We’re going to make a lot of stuff that people aren’t expecting and it’s going to be a lot of fun. For instance, in the electric bicycle category the design has really taken off and gone in many different ways, beyond the standard that people may expect when they think of an electric bike. The same energy of aggressive design will eventually spill over to motorcycles. I’m excited for the future and what’s to come for Indian Motorcycle—it’s going to be interesting.

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KARMA AUTOMOTIVE ALEXANDER KLATT – Vice President of Design Costa Mesa, California How would you describe your job? It’s to define the brand experience. It’s not about just the design or the artistic approach to the vehicle itself, it’s also defining the artistic direction or signature of all Karma products—the cars that we’ll build in the future, the lifestyle accessories, and also how we approach customization. How did you get into automotive design? Growing up, I was always tinkering with cars and motorcycles, so I attended Munich University of Applied Sciences to study automotive engineering, but I also discovered industrial design. In particular, I analyzed the timeless automobiles of the last century, the relationship between their designs and elements of the natural world, and the psychology of aesthetic perception. When I graduated, I was hired by BMW, where I spent nine years as a car designer and another nine years in the vehicle architecture and engineering department. How do you work? My dream is to create contemporary automotive art rather than trendy car designs. With a lot of technology and global competition in the automotive space, I believe that we have lost what it was that made us fall in love with automobiles a half-century ago. I want to bring those very expressive automobiles back. Where do you find inspiration? Nature. I encourage my team to find inspiration in our Southern California environment by going to natural parks and botanical gardens. One of the most inspirational sources

for exterior car design is wild cats—how elegant they are, as well as how dangerous they are and how their posture changes as they move. What does the future hold for Karma? We want to have very thoroughbred vehicles. There will be just a handful of models, but all of them will be very different. Karma automobiles in the immediate future will continue to focus on the driving pleasure that cars provided 50 years ago. The vehicles will include plenty of technology, but that technology will be in the background and won’t overwhelm the driver. w

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INFINITI ALFONSO ALBAISA – Executive Design Director Hong Kong How would you describe your job? My core activity is to set design direction for all Infiniti automobile designs and manage my global team of designers. That said, I still love to sketch and clay model, especially on full-size clays where you are moving big surfaces with nuanced artistry as intent. How did you get into automotive design? I always loved to draw as a child, and one day I saw a Jaguar E-Type drive up outside my father’s design office in Miami and it changed my whole view of life. I studied art and design at Pratt Institute in New York and then went to the Center of Creative Studies in Detroit to study car design, but I didn’t think working in a big company was going to be mutually enjoyable—okay, okay, not enjoyable for the company. So I went back to New York and finished a general art and design degree. Nissan saw my work in New York and hired me, but I wasn’t studying car design when that happened. How do you work? With four global studios, I work closely with a wide range of nationalities and cultural mindsets. At headquarters, my team is mostly Japanese, and more than half of them are not super comfortable conveying their artistic intent in English. Hands-on drawing and clay modeling has allowed us to bridge what our languages could not. We have become like a pack of wild mustangs working together, reacting as much to movements as to words. I feel the Q80 concept car is a perfect example of this. We wanted to show that we can make a car that has both Asian and Western seduction but also possesses a deep inner power. These kinds of combinations are not easy to execute from one point of view or one studio, so circulating this program and working across our borders resulted in a work of automotive art that is uniquely Infiniti. Where do you find inspiration? One of the beautiful things about being a westerner living in Asia is every time I walk through the city, everything looks new, even after 30 years of visiting and spending 7 of those years living here. I’m still seeing something new every day, and having these things in front of my eyes that I don’t find familiar energizes me to create something new. What does the future hold for Infiniti? The production cars that we’ll be launching in the next couple of years are all children of the Q80 concept. And every clay model that I’m working on now is going to be an autonomous vehicle. It is thrilling to see all of this come to life: a new level of technology, freedom for our customers, and the next step for the automobile made by my artists, artisans, and engineering teammates.

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The new Range Rover Velar


LAND ROVER

GERRY MCGOVERN – Chief Design Officer Gaydon, England How would you describe your job? I envision the future, in terms of the products and also the look and feel of the brand. I have six or seven design directors reporting to me, and my job is about far more than deciding how the vehicles look. It’s like being a film director, where you’re editing the aspects of creative work, seeing the big picture and how it comes together, and then going out there and selling it to the business. How did you get into automotive design? After getting my degrees in industrial design at Coventry University and automotive design at the Royal College of Art in London, I was hired by Ford to transform the Lincoln brand into what it was in its heyday. Then I returned to the U.K. as a senior designer for Peugeot and joined the Rover Group after that, in 1982. When I first came into car design, I just loved drawing cars. I’d have done it even if I didn’t get paid for it. How do you work? When I design or review the design of any new vehicle, I ask myself if it answers the following questions: When I look at it, do I desire it? Once I’ve acquired it, does it behave the way it’s supposed to? Does it fulfill the function that it was designed to fulfill? And finally, after owning it for a while, do I still desire it and am I creating a relationship with it that I find rewarding? That’s my acid test for great design. Where do you find inspiration? I collect Modernist art—paintings by Pierre Soulages, Picasso, Victor Pasmore, and Patrick Heron. I always find inspiration in the work of custom tailors on Savile Row. And I love luxury watches and the elements of precision that the Swiss watchmakers like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Zenith can achieve. What does the future hold for Land Rover? Eventually, we’re going to be producing Land Rovers that are well over £250,000 because there are customers out there that want that look and level of exclusivity. w Infiniti Spring 2017

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CADILLAC ANDREW SMITH – Executive Director of Global Design Warren, Michigan How would you describe your job? It’s a team sport; and I really see my role as chief storyteller and a communications advocate. My role has become more creative in that I feel I have moved from being a soloist to a conductor. How did you get into car design? I grew up in a very small town very far from any of the cities in Australia, and my father was a GM dealer, so cars were part of my life from the very beginning. I went to boarding school in Sydney, and I found architectural drafting and technical drawing really enjoyable. I ended up studying product design in Sydney and completed two internships in the automotive sector, the second with GM Holden in Australia. They said finish your degree and then come back and work for us. That was the beginning. How do you work? My design philosophy is that collaboration leads to greater creativity, and my creativity exponentially increases when I’m working with like-minded people on the same project. When we created the Cadillac Escala concept car this past year, I told my team to design a car that they would want to drive as well as want to be driven in. I also told them that I wanted it to be unlike any Cadillac that I’ve seen before. It needed to change the perception of Cadillac but still be clearly identifiable as American luxury. Where do you find inspiration? I love science-fiction movies. In fact, I think I decided to become a designer in 1977 when I was 8 years old and first saw the stormtroopers burst through the door in the opening scene of Star Wars. I was intrigued by the armor that they were wearing and how you can set up a design language and create an entire world around that. So stormtroopers got me thinking analytically about design. My appreciation of Star Wars continues to this day. I even have a stormtrooper action figure on my desk. What does the future hold for Cadillac? We’ve been talking about autonomous vehicles since the World’s Fair in 1954, and we were talking about many of the same issues then as we are now. Ultimately, I see the future of autonomous vehicles as a huge opportunity for designers to create a compelling experience for the customer. We spend a lot of time talking about technology from a customer-centric perspective.

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RIVA YACHTS

MAURO MICHELI – Chief of the Creative Department at Officina Italiana Design Bergamo, Italy How would you describe your job? Officina Italiana Design is responsible for the exterior lines and interior designs of all contemporary Riva yachts. I coordinate a team of nine designers, but we all play a role in the creative process. Some days I study new concepts and new shapes while the designers work on all the details of the boats. How did you get into yacht design? After attending an art-focused high school in Bergamo and then the Accademia di Brera in Milan, I entered a competition launched by Riva to find a new designer. I was neither a boat fan nor a designer, but I decided to have a go anyway. I won the competition, and in 1984 I was taken on as assistant designer in the technical office at the Riva yard.

Opposite bottom, Toshi Oku; top and middle, Guido Cantini/seasee.com; bottom, Alberto Merisio.

How do you work? Riva designs center around clean lines, balancing elegance and innovation. We don’t look for revolutionary forms but for an evolution of lines. Marketing may dictate tastes, but purity of form remains a vital ingredient. I’m particularly proud of the new Rivamare, which has incredible balance in terms of lines and form. Where do you find inspiration? Car design is an area that yacht design looks to a lot, but art is ever present in my life and influences everything that I do. I like the balance of classical art and use it as my main source of guidance, but I also like contemporary art for how it lets you reflect and inspires me to push aesthetic boundaries. Some of my favorite classical artists include Paolo Uccello and Piero della Francesca, and my favorite contemporary artists include Gilbert & George and Bruce Nauman. What does the future hold for Riva? The 100-foot Corsaro was launched in October 2016, and a 110-foot yacht that is a new flybridge concept featuring innovative new living-oriented design solutions will soon follow. A 56-foot open project, an elegant boat clothed in timeless lines, was presented to the press at the Düsseldorf Boat Show in January. We are also currently working on the Riva Superyachts Division with a fully customizable fleet comprising two lines that differ in terms of style and design. Those yachts will range from 164 feet to 295 feet in length.

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AUTOS

SUPERLATIVE STORAGE 88

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THESE LUXURIOUSLY APPOINTED UPSCALE SPACES PROVE A GARAGE CAN BE MUCH MORE THAN A PLACE TO PARK. by SHAUN TOLSON Spring 2017 89


I

Auto Theater in the Round

Craig Jackson, the chairman and CEO of Barrett-Jackson Auction Company and a passionate car collector, always wanted a rotunda to display the trophy vehicles within his collection. When he found his dream home in Paradise Valley—a small town just north of Scottsdale, Arizona—about a decade ago, Jackson was disappointed to discover that the estate did not include his “dream garage.” Undeterred, Jackson excavated a portion of the mountain on which the home was built and created one. The 7,000-square-foot space showcases a ceiling that resembles a 1967 Shelby 10-spoke wheel and walls that resemble the door panels of a 1932 Ford Hot Rod. It also features a rotunda equipped with a turntable in the center,

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which is controlled by a smartphone app and typically displays Jackson’s 2008 Bugatti Veyron. As Jackson explains, the turntable also allows for easy access to any of the 13 cars that can be displayed in the rotunda. “It’s like a modern-day wheelhouse that the railways use for locomotives,” he says. “It’s very modern and full of technology.” That technology includes exhaust and battery-charging systems hidden in the floor, as well as Creston-controlled flat-screen TVs behind each car that allow guests to scroll through digital photos, restoration records, and other documents that chronicle the history of each vehicle. “It’s a one-use room,” Jackson says. “It’s meant to be an auto gallery.”

Tim Heit

t wasn’t long ago that a garage was universally seen as nothing more than a utilitarian space, a gearhead’s sanctuary where even the most polished and pristine automobiles sat surrounded by oil-stained floors and countertops strewn with grease-covered rags. Over the last 15 years, however, a new ideology has taken root, one that fosters a vision of the garage as something more than a rudimentary space to store vehicles and tools. Today, not only are high-end, showroomstyle garages growing more popular but the garage, in its utilitarian form, has expanded its territory and can even be found on the open seas.


Viva Las Vegas (Shown on previous page)

For almost 10 years, Michael Rhodig made man caves— and, more specifically, luxury garages—his calling card. As the founder of GarageMahals, Rhodig would ascertain from clients their general visions for a spectacular garage and would then turn those ideas into reality, often delivering a finished product that exceeded the client’s expectations. Such is the case with this 8,000-square-foot garage in Chicago that he built for Francis Wisniewski, a client with a passion for Las Vegas and gaming. Built beneath a contemporary loft-style residence in a former machine factory in downtown Chicago, the sprawling showroom-style garage includes a re-creation of the Caesars Palace façade in gold leaf, which leads to Wisniewski’s private gambling room, the iconic “Welcome to Las Vegas” sign, and a bar. “It’s definitely an entertaining space,” Wisniewski says of the garage. “It’s a very impressive place to have a party.” According to Rhodig, one of the garage’s most effective features is its color scheme. From deep metallic blue–painted walls to engraved Moz Metal columns painted candy apple red, the garage’s colors pop under showroom lights that hang from the vaulted ceilings. “Vegas is one thing during the day and it’s a whole other story at night,” he says, “so I wanted to create this feeling of nighttime or early evening and the city coming alive.” Rhodig shuttered GarageMahals in 2015, but he remains open-minded to taking on future garage design commissions if they’re the right projects with the right clients.

Freedom on the Seas

For decades, megayacht owners have been forced to sacrifice additional entertainment or living space onboard their vessels for dedicated areas where numerous tenders, Jet Skis, and other water toys can be stowed. Over the past few years, however, Damen Yachts has specialized in building support vessels that provide a much-needed alternative solution. Ranging in size from 141 to 295 feet— and with maximum speeds that range between 16 and 22 knots—these unique crew-operated yachts, which follow close behind their clients’ principal vessels, allow owners to enjoy a larger fleet of exploratory and pleasure craft than they could otherwise stow on their primary yachts. Most recently, Damen sold a 181-foot-long support vessel, Fast & Furious (shown here), which captured plenty of attention at the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, the largest show in the world. It was the latest example in Damen’s YS 5009 range, which can be configured to support deep-sea dives (including the stowage of multi-person submersibles) or hold numerous tenders (ideal for clients who own sailing yachts). It can also be configured to feature a main deck, all-weather helicopter hangar, which will appeal to clients who intend to be at sea for an extended period of time and plan to visit less-developed and remote areas of the world. Currently, Damen is building two more support yachts—a 227-foot example, which will be available this spring, and another 181-foot vessel, which will be available in the fall. w

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Library Drive-In

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Old World Charm

When architect Tim Wilson was commissioned to design a sprawling, 17,000-square-foot, Tuscan-style estate in the Southern California countryside, the owner’s wish list initially included a detached barn that could house a showroomchanneling garage. However, after consultation with the community’s homeowners association and consideration of local zoning limitations, it was decided to locate the 2,000-square-foot garage underneath the main residence. To compensate for the garage’s belowground location, Wilson outfitted it with a custom-designed glass and metal door, along with window wells that bring in natural light and glimpses of the estate’s vibrant landscaping. Because the homeowners had a smaller, everyday garage located on the ground level, this space was designed to feel more like an auto gallery and was built without the use of interior support columns, which allows for as many as eight cars to be parked inside. Wilson and the homeowners traveled to Tuscany to source the reclaimed Roman bricks, roof tiles, and antique elements used to build the home and the garage; and Wilson accented those materials with lowvoltage cable lighting that can be easily maneuvered to spotlight a specific car or the individual features of a car, based on how the vehicles are arranged inside. “The Old World buildings of Tuscany were not originally equipped with electricity—they used candles, lamps, and torches,” Wilson explains. “The use of contemporary lighting in this garage creates an interesting juxtaposition with Old World authenticity.”

Top, Greg Poland Photography

Before Chris Frederick bought his first collector car, he sought the advice of Stephen Brauer, a business acquaintance and esteemed collector of prewar American classics. “You need to create a library,” Frederick remembers being told. “You’re going to need a lot of books on the cars that you want to collect because you’re not going to be able to find that data everywhere.” More than a decade later, when Frederick was ready to design the interior of his newly built, 3,000-square-foot showroom garage outside of Baltimore, Maryland, that advice sprung to mind. “Initially, I’m going to invest in more books than cars,” he told his interior designer. “So I want it to look like a library that holds cars.” That request led to a finished garage that features cherry wood throughout (with the exception of the garage doors, which are solid cedar); Italian porcelain floors (chosen specifically because porcelain doesn’t absorb oil or water); and an extensive built-in bookcase with an old-fashioned sliding brass ladder. The garage can fit eight cars and includes an in-ground, 10,000-pound rotary lift that is powder-coated to match the color of the floor, which means it’s almost invisible when not in use. The garage also features a full bathroom; kitchenette; fitness room; a lofted study—complete with a fireplace—that serves as Frederick’s home office; and a retractable, 15-foot video projection screen. “My grandkids love coming to the garage because it’s like a big playroom,” Frederick says. “They love sitting in all the cars and watching movies.” Don Taylor, the architect who designed the garage, acknowledges that you can also watch movies while seated in the loft, much like you would in the balcony of a theater. “This is a place where you can actually sit and live, and that’s what he wanted,” Taylor says. “This is his space.”


THE WORLD IS YOUR CANVAS. Color it as you please.

The world is a big, vibrant, beautiful place, complete with authentic culture, some of the best wine you’ve ever tasted, and masterfully designed architecture. No two destinations are exactly alike, and no two Uniworld river cruises are either. Come craft your masterpiece.

UNIWORLD.COM | CALL 800-298-0417 OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER


TRENDS FASHION

Him: Top, James Perse, $165, jamesperse.com. Pants, Ralph Lauren, $495, ralphlauren.com. Bag, Brunello Cucinelli, $3,995, brunellocucinelli.com. Watch, Omega, $6,500, omegawatches.com, available at Westime, westime.com. Her: Dress, Vionnet, $4,880, vionnet.com. Clutch, Barbara Bui, $960, barbarabui.com. Ring, Boucheron, $4,010, boucheron.com. Watch, Dior, $4,250, dior.com.

by KATHRYN ROMEYN

Leather is certainly not the world’s rarest material, and it’s not the most expensive, either. But there’s something undeniably luxurious and exciting about an impeccably crafted leather handbag or loafer—or even iPhone case. When it’s pristine, yet has a mark of the artisan who made it with

highly skilled hands, it’s a piece to be prized. This type of craftsmanship goes way back. Beginning as

early as 1300 B.C., leather goods were prevalent in primitive societies, which developed processes for turning animal hides into garments, footwear, decorative attire, and belts.

From the Greeks to the Chinese to the North American Indians, the craft was independently

fine-tuned and developed over centuries. Tanning leather, too, goes back centuries, but it wasn’t

until the 19th century that chrome tanning—a chemical process that is now the most popular—was

introduced as an alternative to vegetable tanning with natural ingredients. The way it’s treated affects the final product, as does the hide itself. Soft, supple calfskin is typically the most used in leather accessories, but there are many variables even within that one type. w

FROM ARTISAN-CRAFTED CALFSKIN HANDBAGS TO HAND-PUNCHED WINGTIP SHOES, EXCELLENT CRAFTSMANSHIP DEFINES THESE TIMELESS GOODS.

LEATHER REPORT Photography ANDREW YEE Styling ISABEL DUPRE

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Dress, Alejandra, $2,895, alejandraalonsorojas.com. Shoes, Christian Louboutin, $995, christianlouboutin.com. Clutch ($830) and bag ($2,795), Elisabeth Weinstock, elisabethweinstock.com. Bracelets, Boucheron, $6,300 each, boucheron.com.

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Factors such as the environment in which a calf lives impact the product,

too. “My really beautiful hides come from certain parts of northern Europe

where there’s no barbed wire,” says LA shoe designer George Esquivel, who

with his team produce up to 4,500 pairs of shoes per year, completely by hand. “You can see the nicks of barbed wire or mosquito bites on a hide, just like scars on skin. That’s one way to tell [quality],” he says.

“It starts with ingredients, and our ingredients are beautiful,” says Esquivel,

whose process for each shoe includes hand-cutting and hand-stretching

every piece; hand-shading, hand-staining, and hand-distressing the leather;

and hand-making the laces. (For professional basketball players in particular, Esquivel does many custom adjustments, including special patterns and molds.) Italy, of course, hosts a cadre of top men’s leather shoe brands,

including Salvatore Ferragamo (which recently launched bespoke Tramezza footwear and has such rich heritage that a Florence museum is dedicated

to the shoe designer and his craft), Gucci, Santoni, and Bettanin & Venturi 1856, but there are brands outside the boot-shaped country like Esquivel, FEIT, and O’Keeffe that have won respect in the industry.

Esquivel points out that the thickness of leather for shoes, whether made

from cow, kangaroo, goat, or alligator, is much heftier than for a jacket.

Likewise for a gym bag, which might be made of bullhide, versus a woman’s purse. Lambskin makes the softest, finest-grain leather jackets and is much

pricier than other skins. For example, Saint Laurent sells a $5,250 lambskinstyle jacket, while Zara’s sheep leather jacket is $250 (hardware, too, drives prices up). w

Cuyana, a luxury brand selling made-in-Italy and made-in-Argentina

bags, electronics cases, and small accessories, works with pebbled, smooth, saffiano, and croc-embossed hides, depending on the piece. It’s easier to notice scratches on smooth box calf or calfskin leather—which NYC’s

Mansur Gavriel uses for its coveted bucket bags—so textured styles are

preferred by some because they hide wear-and-tear. Cuyana’s direct-to-

customer model disproves the theory that the price tag alone is indicative

of quality (classic leather totes start at $175). “The craftsmen we work with used to produce for many globally recognized luxury brands before those

brands moved production to China, which gave us the opportunity to work

with them and results in the luxury-level quality of our products,” says CEO and cofounder Karla Gallardo.

Her: Top ($375) and pants (price upon request), Alexander Wang, alexanderwang.com. Clutch, Mitchel Primrose, $1,995, mitchelprimrose.com. Watch, Jaeger LeCoultre, $5,300, jaeger-lecoultre.com. Ring, Boucheron, $4,010, boucheron.com. Him: Jacket, Brunello Cucinelli, $2,195, brunellocucinelli.com. Pants, Ralph Lauren, $495, ralphlauren.com. Bag, Louis Vuitton, $1,190, louisvuitton.com.


Above: Bag ($4,900) and keychain ($1,300), Fendi, fendi.com. Right: Shoes, Christian Louboutin, $895, christianlouboutin.com. Bag, Louis Vuitton, $4,800, louisvuitton.com. Ring, Boucheron, $4,010, boucheron.com. Below: Bags (purple and black), Bottega Veneta, $3,620 each, 800.845.6790. Clutch, Pierre Hardy, $395, pierrehardy.com. Wallet, Christian Louboutin, $1,450, christianlouboutin.com.

Our ancestors most likely weren’t concerned

with global environment issues, but nowadays many

companies are highlighting environmental awareness. Gucci uses certified zero-deforestation leather that is fully traceable, and several years ago partnered with

Livia Firth and the National Wildlife Federation to

design a full handbag line crafted only of sustainable Brazilian Amazon leather, complete with passports

detailing the precise chain of supply. In the 2014/15

season, Bottega Veneta, too, reached 100 percent traceability for the double-

faced leather woven by hand into its cultish Cabat bag, first designed by Thomas Maier in 2001. Their parent brand, Kering (which also owns Saint Laurent

and Gucci), has publicly stated its goal to eventually source 100 percent of its luxury brands’ leather from sustainable, verified sources that do not harm the

ecosystems. Bottletop, which began with Kenyan-produced bags and accessories made using recycled bottle tops lined with Mulberry leather, now uses the same ethically sourced hides as Gucci.

The skin itself is the focus for hot young brands such as Vianel, which makes

jewel-toned iPhone cases out of exotic skins including ostrich leg, lizard, and

alligator. And Hermès’ Birkin and Kelly bags, with their infamous wait lists and $10,000-plus price tags, begin with the most impeccable-quality skin—calf or

crocodile, ostrich or lizard leather. The rarer the leather, the longer the potential 98

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Clockwise from top left: 1. Dress, Versus Versace, price upon request, versusversace.com. Bag, Gucci, $2,980, gucci.com. 2. Skirt, Hellessy, $850, hellessy.com. Shoes, Christian Louboutin, $950, christianlouboutin.com. Bag, Shaffer LA, $399, shafferla.com. Watch, Dior, $4,250, dior.com. 3. Shoes ($450) and clutch ($895), Alexander Wang, alexanderwang.com. 4. Clutch ($1,380) and cardholders ($550), Goyard, goyard.com. Bag, Smythson, $675, smythson.com.

wait since Hermès must find the absolute perfect skin. It’s then lovingly hand-sewn with

waxed thread and saddle stitching, one by one, by artisans in the Paris suburb of Pantin. The

brand, founded in 1837, first crafted leather harnesses, belts, and trunks before creating what’s arguably the world’s most famous handbag. That vintage trunk aesthetic seems to be coming back into fashion, evidenced for one by Louis Vuitton’s new Petit Malle trunk bag iPhone

cases, available this spring in the iconic Damier print, as well as blue croc and metallic leather. Quality, says Esquivel, “is tough for the general consumer [to judge]. There’s a beautiful

brand out of Paris called Moynat, and they stitch everything by hand. You’re going to have inconsistencies—I don’t call them flaws—when you’re stitching by hand, because of the

human person. I’ve seen Hermès bags where the stitch isn’t exactly straight,” he says. But not

all agree on whether craftsmanship means inconsistencies become beauty. “The seams have to

match up, it has to be perfect, everything has to align—it’s important for a luxury brand to be just that,” says LA designer Elisabeth Weinstock, whose innovative work with leather centers around exotic snakeskins and vibrant hides that cover objects from 4-foot-tall jewelry w

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boxes (which takes eight different craftsmen to complete) to hand-painted totes and whipsnake backpacks to hand-inlaid diaper boxes, Daniel Marshall humidors, and

$1,450 snakeskin boxing gloves. Each piece is painstakingly handmade in California using wild-caught skins from Europe. Pushing the envelope of leather is what

Weinstock—and other leaders in the industry—does best. Her sporting goods (baseball bats and gloves, tennis racquets, even a surfboard) epitomize the expanding boundaries of what artisans can do, even if the techniques of fine craftsmanship are firm.

Ultimately, says Gallardo, a consumer should be looking for several things before

making a leather accessory purchase: “The grain of the leather, depending on type

and how smooth or durable it is. Also, the details are always important: the finishing, stitching, and hardware. Examine these closely. Higher-quality accessories will have even stitching, with no breaks in the stitch-line and no loose threads. The metal

Clockwise from top left: 1. Him: Shoes, Billy Reid, $395, billyreid.com. Watch, Omega Speedmaster, $6,500, omegawatches.com, available at Westime, westime.com. Her: Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti, $595, giuseppezanottidesign.com. Game, Elisabeth Weinstock, $440, elisabethweinstock .com. Ring, Boucheron, $4,820, boucheron.com. Cuff, Mitchel Primrose, $495, mitchelprimrose.com. 2. Shoes, Volley x E.P.&L.P., $180, eplosangeles.com. Football, Elisabeth Weinstock, $710, elisabethweinstock.com. Gloves, Porsche Design, $156, porsche-design.com. Passport cover, Louis Vuitton, $365, louisvuitton.com. 3. Cardholder, Montblanc, $185, montblanc.com. 4. Jacket ($745) and pants ($345), Theory, theory.com. Watch, Rolex, $17,800, rolex.com. 5. Jacket, Brunello Cucinelli, $2,195, brunellocucinelli.com. Sunglasses, Calvin Klein, $156, calvinklein.com. Watch, Carl F. Bucherer, $7,100, carlf-bucherer.com, available at Westime, westime.com. Car, Porsche 911 Carrera S Cabriolet, from $115,700, porsche.com.

Hair/Makeup: Paul Blanch

finishing on the hardware should be smooth, without chipping or unevenness, and the

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weight should be substantial but not excessively heavy,” she says. Also worth noting is Esquivel’s definition of luxury: “If you can take the label

off and not know who made it, and it still looks beautiful, whether from the craftsmanship or design. Does it speak to you, is it special to

you? You can see if there are threads hanging off, it’s sloppy, or there’s glue everywhere, but

I don’t think consumers can know how many

Clockwise from top left: 1. Jacket, Polo Ralph Lauren, $895, ralphlauren .com. Pants, Levi’s, $69, levi.com. Bag, Bottega Veneta, price upon request, 800.845.6790. 2. Top, Onia, $110, onia.com. Pants, Citizens of Humanity, $198, citizensofhumanity.com. Backpack, Tumi, $945, tumi.com. 3. Shoes, Michael Kors, $178, michaelkors .com. Bag, Tumi, $695, tumi.com. Cigar case, Elisabeth Weinstock, $350, elisabethweinstock.com. Belt, Ralph Lauren, $295, ralphlauren.com. 4. Keychain, Katin, $28, katinusa.com.

stitches per inch there should be. It’s very hard, but the label versus nonlabel thing is a good benchmark.”

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SPIRITS

SETTLING A CLASSIC COCKTAIL CONTROVERSY LIKE IT OR NOT, PURISTS, THE VODKA MARTINI IS THE GENUINE ARTICLE.

T

here are a number of persnickety denizens of the drinking class who are of a mind that a martini prepared with anything but gin and vermouth is not, in fact, a martini at all. These fuss buckets need to get over themselves, for not only is the vodka martini legit but an argument can be made that it is indeed the true original martini. How’s that? Well, you see, gin’s secret shame is that it’s actually the world’s first flavored vodka—a neutral grain spirit that’s distilled a second time with juniper and other botanicals. Though it’s now heavily associated with the U.K., gin was actually invented by the Dutch, who called it “jenever,” a name that was promptly shortened by a besotted Englishman. The point is that if we accept gin as vodka’s berryflavored offspring, then by extension all gin martinis are, in essence, variations on the vodka martini. And when you look at it that way, the gin purists seem to be the ones who’ve got some ‘splainin to do.

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But we’re not here to quibble, are we? No. We’re here to celebrate a stately classic cocktail that has endured in spite of persistent anti-vodka bias, confusion over how it’s properly prepared (Shake? Stir? Twist? Oh, thanks a lot, James Bond!), an awful original name (Kangaroo), and an even more unflattering one after that (vodkatini). The word vodka derives from the Russian word for water, and like its namesake the stuff goes down easy. Its eminent drinkability accounts for the spirit’s enormous popularity. The numbers don’t lie. In 1976, vodka surpassed whiskey as the best-selling spirit in America, and it has remained on top ever since. This market dominance is impressive when you take into account gin’s centuries-long history in the United States, whereas vodka hardly existed here at all prior to the end of World War II. “The reason vodka surpassed gin in popularity is that it is more approachable and subtle flavor-wise,” says Julien Lafond, a world-renowned drinks expert and the North American ambassador for Grey Goose vodka. w

Tucker & Hossler

by DAN DUNN


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In a career spanning 15 years, Lafond has tended bar at some of Europe’s finest establishments, including Happiness Forgets and Little Red Door in Paris, and The Royal Exchange and the Bar at the Pacific Oriental in London. Of late he spends a great deal of time traversing the United States and Canada, spreading the gospel of one of France’s most delectable exports. He’s a man of strong convictions who holds certain truths about the vodka martini to be self-evident. Among them...

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With all due respect to 007, a proper vodka martini should be stirred in a mixing glass rather than shaken in a tin. Shaking with ice tends to overdilute or “bruise” the vodka, yielding a watered-down drink. Lafond’s ideal martini is 5 measures of vodka, a measure of Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth, a dash of orange bitters, and a lemon twist to help bring out the citrus and pepper notes of the winter wheat vodka. When a martini tastes off, the problem almost always lies with the vermouth. Vermouth is a fortified wine, not a spirit. Once opened, it oxidizes after a short period of time. It must be refrigerated and, ideally, used within two weeks’ time. Three, at the absolute max.

Vodka can be made from darn near anything that’s fermentable. For centuries, potatoes and cereal grains have been the preferred base, but in recent years innovative producers have begun experimenting with a wider array of raw material. Here are five vodkas begat from uncommon sources:

BLACK COW VODKA Once upon a time—in 2012—a British dairy farmer looked out at his herd and saw something in the cows that no one had seen before: vodka. Made, secretly and cleverly, from the fermented milk of grass-grazed cattle on England’s southwest coast, Black Cow is impeccably smooth, with pleasing notes of dry cocoa beans and vanilla. $40; blackcow.co.uk.

If you prefer olives to a lemon twist, be sure the olives are refrigerated. Putting room temperature olives into a chilled vodka martini is an affront to decency. “Dirty” is permissible, but only if you promise to go easy on the olive brine—1/8 of an ounce, tops. A martini is to be served in a cocktail glass and a cocktail glass only. No substitutions allowed.

You can order a vodka martini prepared with just a splash of dry vermouth (“extra dry”), a higher percentage of dry vermouth (“wet”), or with equal parts dry and sweet vermouth (“perfect”). A martini sans vermouth is also okay, so long as you know you’re not fooling anyone. That isn’t really a martini—it’s a double shot of vodka, up, in a fancy glass. Or, in other words, two drinks’ worth of booze for the price of one. Smart. Finally, it’s important to note that under no circumstances is it ever okay for an adult human being to consume martini bastardizations made with apple schnapps or chocolate liqueur. Same goes for grenadine and blue Curaçao. As a general rule of thumb, if you’re over the age of 7, you shouldn’t be drinking anything the color of an Angry Bird.

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CORBIN VODKA Fourth-generation farmer David Souza was determined to create the world’s first vodka made from sweet potatoes, and spent nearly two years tinkering to get it just right. It takes more than 10 pounds of raw sweet potatoes to produce one bottle of this buttery, caramel-tinged vodka from California’s San Joaquin Valley. $36; corbincash.com. Black Cow, Si West

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Five Uncommonly Made Vodkas


ST. AUGUSTINE FLORIDA CANE VODKA This earthy, floral vodka is handmade in the nation’s oldest city, distilled from pure Sunshine State sugar cane—a base heretofore used almost exclusively in rum production. Pleasant natural sweetness with hints of anise and green apple. $29; staugustinedistillery.com.

CALIFORNIA VODKA The world’s first and only vodka made from strawberries. The fruit is sourced from the lush growing region surrounding Ventura Spirits’ cozy Central Coast distillery. Tastes of fresh berries mingling with vanilla Creamsicle, with just a scooch of pepper on the finish. $28; venturaspirits.com. 1911 VODKA Made from apples picked at Beak & Skiff Orchards in LaFayette, NY, which has been around for over a century. There are all sorts of delicious flavors at play in 1911, from black pepper and coffee bean to caramel and banana. $35; 1911established.com.

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ONE PLACE, TWO WAYS

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For Outdoor Art

PUBLIC SPACES AND OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS DAZZLE IN THIS FORWARD-LOOKING YET FAMILY-FRIENDLY CITY.

1. Iris Bay This 32-floor, office-and-retail structure opened

4. Octo 3 A space-age, kinetic sculpture created by American artist Anthony Howe, Octo 3 is made of stainless steel and stands 25 feet high. The installation’s 16 steel wings spin in unison around a circular axis, creating captivating optical illusions. Mesmerizing. howeart.net

2. Dubai Miracle Garden There is enough hydration to

5. Museum of the Future Backed by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, this museum is conceived as a place where inventors, designers, and entrepreneurs can both develop and market futuristic prototypes of many sorts. motf.ae

last year in Business Bay, in the heart of Dubai. U.K.-based WS Atkins designed the tower. This is the same architectural firm behind the Burj Al Arab, which opened in the city in 1999 and continues to be a Dubai icon. iris.ae make this the largest floral garden in the world. Completed last year, at a cost of $11 million, the garden spreads over roughly 2 million square feet, with more than 100 million flowers. The facility also includes the world’s largest indoor butterfly garden, which houses more than 15,000 butterflies. dubaimiraclegarden.com

3. The Green Planet Encased in a cylindrical glass tube,

the Green Planet is the Middle East’s first bio-dome. The 150-foot-tall structure opened in September, and it is home to an indoor tropical rainforest. The centerpiece—the world’s largest indoor man-made tree—sustains more than 3,000 plants and animals, including toucans, tarantula, sloths, tree frogs, and boas. thegreenplanetdubai.com

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6. STAY: Jumeirah Al Naseem Arabic for “sea breeze,” Al Naseem is located along more than a mile of private beach— Dubai’s longest such stretch. It is the final piece of the luxury Madinat Jumeirah development, bookended by the iconic, sail-shaped Burj Al Arab tower. Opened this past winter, the Jumeirah Al Naseem resort takes design cues from sand dunes and Bedouin traditions, arousing a sense of calm, with the sounds of the Gulf fanning through the guest rooms’ open terraces. From $300; jumeirah.com.

Photos: (1) Courtesy of Hay Architecture. Opposite: (1) Courtesy of the artist Diana Contreras; (2) Musthafa Aboobacker; (3) Adel Abidin/Lawrie Shabibi; (4) Raja Khalid/Grey Noise; (5) Musthafa Aboobacker

DUBAI


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For Indoor Art

INSPIRED BY THE WESTERN GALLERY SCENE, DUBAI’S ART WORLD BRINGS REGIONAL TALENT TO THE FORE.

1. Street Art Gallery Following successful exhibitions

in Dubai in 2013, artist Stephane Valici opened Street Art Gallery, the first space in the city to exhibit graffiti and related works, including work in stencils, abstract, cubism, vandal, and Pop, and on canvas, wood, and even road signs. streetartdubai.ae

2. The Third Line Gallery Third Line represents roughly

30 artists, raising the profile of Middle Eastern art beyond the region, exhibiting regularly at Art Cologne and Art Basel. thethirdline.com

3. Lawrie Shabibi Gallery William Lawrie and Asmaa AlShabibi opened this gallery in the Al Quoz district in 2011, and it has leapt to the forefront of the contemporary art world here. It supports emerging artists from the Middle East, North Africa, and South Asia. lawrieshabibi.com

4. Grey Noise Gallery In 2008, gallerist Umer Butt launched Grey Noise in Lahore, Pakistan. Butt relocated his operation in 2012 to Dubai, where he had lived as a child.

Grey Noise has since built a reputation as a go-to space for experimental and cutting-edge art from the region. greynoise.org

5. Green Art Gallery Opened in 1995, and originally dedicated to Arab modernism, Green Gallery relaunched a few years ago as a contemporary art space, dealing in painters, photographers, and sculptors from the Middle East, North Africa, South Asia, Turkey, and beyond. gagallery.com 6. STAY: Palazzo Versace No surprises here: This is

Baroque Italian luxury. A Neoclassical palace designed in 16th-century style, this new property (opened late last year) is set to overwhelm you. All furniture and fabrics are designed by Versace exclusively for the 384-room resort hotel. The fine workmanship includes timber parquet flooring, stone mosaic tiling, silk furnishings, and handpainted boiseries. You’ll get a sense of things from the lobby, with its gilded columns, 3-ton chandelier, and a mosaic of 1.5 million pieces. From $365; palazzoversace.ae. w —Brett Forrest Spring 2017 107


ONE PLACE, TWO WAYS

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For Art

WORLD-CLASS PAINTINGS, SCULPTURE, ARCHITECTURE, AND ART INSTALLATIONS SUIT EVERY TASTE.

1. Indoor Art Hike Bring your workout clothes for Aria spa’s one-hour indoor art hike. Lunge as you gaze at Nancy Rubins’ Big Edge, made from recycled canoes and kayaks; squat while watching Jenny Holzer’s kinetic electronic messages; and jog past Henry Moore’s Reclining Connections. $50; aria.com.

4. Seven Magic Mountains In the middle of the desert, 10

2. LOVE You’ll literally find it in four gigantic red metal letters that spell LOVE at the Waterfall Atrium of the Venetian. Visitors from every country pose on the L, climb inside the O, and straddle the V. It’s a magnet for international feel-goodism created by artist Laura Kimpton. venetian.com

5. Arts District Stroll through the eclectic and little-known (but rapidly growing) 18-block downtown mecca if you want for a little edge. Start at ReBar (rebarlv.com), a combo saloon and antiques store; discover high- and low-end treasures on Antique Alley; and wander through fine art and funk at the Art Square galleries (artssquarelcv.com) and the Arts Factory complex (theartsfactory.com).

3. Neon Museum Incandescent light bulbs that chase each

other and give the illusion of twinkling are a native Las Vegas art form on display as part of the museum’s outdoor Neon Boneyard collection. A guided tour of the vintage neon cemetery is nostalgia heaven with 200 original, historic signs from the Stardust, Caesars Palace, and the Sahara, as well as one that includes Liberace’s signature. neonmuseum.org

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miles from the Strip, Ugo Rondinone’s seven towers, created from pink, lime, tangerine, cobalt, and ebony-painted boulders, connect human nature, with all its creativity, to actual nature, with its seemingly endless expanse of sky. On view until May 2018. sevenmagicmountains.com

6. STAY: The WynnTower King Suites The concierge provides guests with a brochure that maps out a selfguiding tour of public art, much of which has been selected by Steve Wynn. Some of the notable works are Jeff Koons’ Popeye, a Gustav Eiffel chandelier, and Tim Bavington’s music on canvas. From $309; wynnlasvegas.com.

(2) Mario Mediana; (4) Gianfraco Gorgoni; (6) Robert Hill. Opposite: (2) Barbara Kraft; (3) Erik Kabik; (4) MargaretW/iStock; (6) Scott Frances

LAS VEGAS


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For Soul

RIGHT UNDER THE SURFACE OF THE GLITZ, GLAMOUR, AND GAMBLING IS ANOTHER WORLD THAT IS SOOTHING, LIFE-ENHANCING, RELAXING, AND RESTORATIVE.

1. Yoga on the High Roller Where else can you swing in midair at 550 feet, on the world’s tallest Ferris wheel, and do sun salutations? The ride is surprisingly smooth and the yoga inspirational. Not for acrophobics. $75; available through the Linq Hotel; caesars.com. 2. Bodhi Massage and Visualization For 105 blissed-out minutes, a therapist combines massage and energy work to connect body and soul. As your chakras are balanced and you experience a guided meditation, lights change to correspond to chakra colors. $375; available at the spa at the Encore; wynnlasvegas.com.

3. Luck and Prosperity It’s unexpected fun, and few know about it. A free map, which you get at the concierge’s desk, leads you to five designated spots at Caesars Palace that are reputed to bring good luck and prosperity. You must touch Joe Louis’s boxing glove, then Caesar’s index finger, and stand in front of a replica Brahma shrine with a fourfaced Buddha who is revered in Thailand. caesars.com

4. Red Rock Canyon A mere 30 minutes from the bustle and busyness is a balm for the urban soul. Drive for 13 miles past flaming red bands of ferrous ironite in the sculptural sandstone cliffs, or park and hike on trails ranging from easy to moderate. The great expanse of Western sky is Wedgwood blue, and cacti rise out of the Mojave Desert floor. redrockcanyonlv.org 5. Private Meditation During your session at the Mandarin

Oriental spa, your instructor will surprise you with options like Tibetan crystal bowls and sound healing to still your mind and bring you home to yourself. $100; mandarinoriental.com.

6. STAY: Sky Suites at Aria. Want to de-stress from the moment you land in Las Vegas? Complimentary airport transportation, pre-arrival concierge service for your itinerary, and a spacious suite with marble tile floors, panoramic views, private plunge pools, and interior horticulture are designed for maximum relaxation and wellbeing. From $400; aria.com. w —Judith Fein Spring 2017 109


ONE PLACE, TWO WAYS

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For the Shot

DIVERSE AND INCREDIBLE LANDSCAPES HAVE LONG LURED PHOTOGRAPHERS TO UTAH’S PARKS AND RESERVES. HERE’S WHERE TO CAPTURE SOME OF THE STATE’S MOST ICONIC SHOTS.

1. Sandstone Arch Over millions of years, wind and water have carved glowing red sandstone into some incredible formations. The most famous of the roughly 2,000 natural arches in Arches National Park is the 65-foot Delicate Arch, which adorns the state’s license plate. nps.gov/arch

4. River Bend Thanks to Instagram, Arizona’s Horseshoe Bend has exploded in popularity. The point towers 2,000 feet over the river with panoramic views. The best photos are captured with an interesting tree or rock in the foreground and a cloudy sky overhead. stateparks.utah.gov

2. Anasazi Artwork Throughout the Southwest, traces of the now-extinct Anasazi people inspire intrigue. Abandoned cliff dwellings peak out from stone ledges and shiny obsidian arrowheads wait to be discovered beneath the sand. One of the largest and best-preserved Anasazi murals is the 200-foot-by-15-foot Great Gallery in Canyonlands National Park. Drive for 30 miles on an unpaved road to the Horseshoe Canyon trailhead and hike 3.5 miles, including a 750-foot descent. nps.gov/cany

5. Slot Canyon Eons of water trickling over sandstone can

3. Hoodoos No hiking required. You can capture the otherworldly scene from various overlooks along the main road through the park. Find Rainbow Point at the end of that 18-mile drive and stop to look north at the entirety of the park stretched out before you. nps.gov/brca 110 Spring 2017

carve deep crevices that eventually become wide enough to walk and climb through. Southeastern Utah has over 1,000 options. Outside Escalante hike a 3.5-mile loop through two narrow, visually striking versions: Peek-A-Boo Gulch and Spooky Gulch. utah.com

6. STAY: Montage Deer Valley All 220 rooms and suites

are big, with balconies, fireplaces, and ski-in/ski-out access. During any season, charter a private flight aboard a Pilatus PC-12 through Montage Expeditions for a guided day trip through Arches, Canyonlands, Zion, or Bryce Canyon National Parks ($8,000 for up to seven people). From $300 (summer) to $650 (winter); montagehotels.com.

(1) 4FR/iStock; (2) SumikoPhoto/iStock; (3) LordRunar/iStock; (4) kjschoen/iStock; (5) Left Coast Photography/iStock; (6) Blake Marvin. Opposite: (1) Canbalci/iStock; (2) Mcelroyart/iStock; (3) Stephen Matera; (4) Camp Photo/iStock; (5) Ian Coble

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For the Thrill

SANDSTONE PLAYGROUNDS AND SNOW-CAPPED PEAKS TEMPT VISITORS WITH A RANGE OF UNUSUAL SITES AND EXCITING WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THEM.

1. Hot Air Balloon over Monument Valley If you know John Ford Westerns, Monument Valley will feel like familiar territory. The Navajo tribal park on the Utah-Arizona border is littered with distinctive mesas jutting up from the canyon floor. Monument Valley Hot Air Balloon Company lifts clients 7,000 feet to clear the nearly as tall formations. monumentvalleyballooncompany.com 2. Rainbow Bridge Boat Tour The best way to see

Rainbow Bridge National Monument, one of the biggest natural bridges in the world, is by boat. Lake Powell Resorts, the only operator to the attraction, runs a regular cruise to the isolated canyon. The six-hour trip departs from Page, Arizona, and covers 50 miles of Lake Powell. lakepowell.com

3. Yoga in Goblin Valley State Park Strike a pose among

the hoodoos in Goblin Valley with Get In the Wild. The company’s Red Rock Yoga and Hiking Retreat combines restorative yoga and canyoneering. The surroundings look so mythical that directors have used them as alien planets in movies. From $1,295 per person; getinthewild.com.

4. Rafting Desolation Canyon This 85-mile stretch of the Green River is especially scenic and littered with ancient rock art. Guides of Moab-based Sheri Griffith River Expeditions will point out images of snakes, bighorn sheep, and decorated warriors painted thousands of years ago on sheltered rock faces. griffithexp.com 5. Heli Ski Backcountry The 40-year-old heli ski outfitter

Powderbird flies four-passenger Astars that leave from both Snowbird and Park City to access backcountry terrain. Appropriate for moderate and expert skiers, the trips do not require jumping out of helicopters. powderbird.com

6. STAY: Amangiri If any of the above sounds too rugged, you don’t have to sacrifice any comforts at Amangiri. As crowds increase in the national parks, here you can spend a day hiking and climbing into a slot canyon and not run into anyone (34 rooms occupy 600 acres). Guides take guests safely up wind-sculpted sandstone on the property’s series of private via ferrata courses. From $1,400; aman.com. —Jennifer Ashton Ryan Spring 2017

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HEALTH

THE WORLD’S LONGEST-LIVED PEOPLE DON’T PUMP IRON OR RUN MARATHONS; THEY BIKE TO WORK, COOK HEALTHY FOODS, AND DRINK WINE WITH THEIR FRIENDS. INSIDE THE PLACES WHERE PEOPLE LIVE TO BE 100 YEARS OLD. by IRENE RAWLINGS

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n the spring of 2000, Dan Buettner, a National Geographic Fellow, was leading a series of educational projects called “Quests” in which a team of scientists was sent to investigate some of the world’s greatest puzzles. “I heard about Okinawans’ unusual longevity and thought it would be a great quest to learn their secrets to good health and a long life,” he says. The result was a National Geographic cover story about the “Secrets of a Long Life,” which profiled areas with concentrations of some of the world’s longest-lived people. Why are they called Blue Zones? Simple. “They got their name for the blue pen we used to draw circles on the map locating the areas we wanted to research,” says Buettner (his own website is named bluezones.com). People who live in the Blue Zones—five regions in Europe, Latin America, Asia, and the United States—live longer but are also free of many diseases common in older adults—heart disease, obesity, cancer, and diabetes. Obviously, they are doing something right. First, a healthy diet. The anthropologists, demographers, epidemiologists, and other researchers who accompanied Buettner found that the basis of every longevity diet in the world is the humble bean. Fava beans in Sardinia. Black beans in Costa Rica. Lentils in Ikaria. Soybeans in Okinawa. Loma Linda’s Seventh Day Adventists take their cue from God’s directive (in the Book of Genesis) to eat fruits of “seed-bearing plants.” But even the healthiest diet is not, by itself, enough to ensure a long life. Buettner’s research pointed to the fact that these super-seniors thrive in cultures that celebrate their age and keep them engaged with family and community. w

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From top to bottom, ZoraZhuang/iStock; Jonathan Austin Daniels/iStock; George and Eleni Karamali; Keznon/Shutterstock. Opposite, Tucker & Hossler.

Life Lessons from the Blue Zones


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Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica You rattle and shake over rugged roads (the locals call them monkey trails) and ford shallow rivers to get to littledeveloped beaches, sea turtle-nesting sites, and surf schools in Santa Teresa and Mal Pais. If you venture upcountry, you’ll find farming and ranching villages that have not been impacted by tourism. And that’s why you’re here. To meet octogenarians tending cattle, nonagenarians working in their gardens, and centenarians waving from their doorways. They are very social and might invite you in for a black coffee (brewed in a clean sock). But you’ll have to dust off your college Spanish. Very little English is spoken once you get inland. Buettner notes that Costa Ricans spend only 15 percent of what Americans do on healthcare and yet appear

to be living long, healthy lives. Pura vida is a phrase used for everything from a greeting to a good-bye and everything in between. Costa Rican centenarians are surrounded by friends and family, have a strong work ethic, and maintain strong religious beliefs.

Top longevity foods: corn, coffee, papayas, yams, mango,

bananas, and plantains from their own gardens. Gallo pinto— rice and black beans mixed together, served on corn tortillas and garnished with cheese and cilantro… sometimes with an egg on top. The water is minerally and naturally fortified with high levels of calcium (strong bones).

Experience: The Four Seasons Costa Rica, a place where

most everything takes place outdoors, is set on the slender tip of Papagayo Peninsula with beaches on both sides. Look out for the capuchin monkeys who scamper down from the palm trees to steal your lunch. Three swimming pools, one with private palapas that come with a drinks butler. Take a nap to the lapping and swishing of the waves. On starry nights, observe the southern sky through a powerful telescope while enjoying celestial cocktails and small bites infused with real meteorite dust. It is called, quite appropriately, Taste the Stars. A Wellness Concierge guides you through a Pura Vida for All program. Guided meditation. Yoga. Cycling along the beaches and in the jungle. Spa treatments designed to rebalance your chakras. Easy-to-do-at-home healthy cooking classes. And the resort arranges English-speaking drivers/guides to take guests to the Blue Zone Nicoya Peninsula where you will meet super-seniors in the coffee shops, the open-air markets, or just walking along the road. fourseasons.com

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Top, Don Riddle; bottom, Tucker & Hossler. Opposite: Top, middle and middle righ, Michael Turek; Middle Left, Nash Willie/Stock Food; bottom, 3quakes/iStock.

The Four Seasons Costa Rica


Ikaria, Greece

Ninety-nine square miles of scrub oak– covered mountains rising steeply out of the Aegean Sea, Ikaria is one of the undervisited Greek islands. It doesn’t have the white-sand beaches and throbbing nightlife that draw visitors to some of the Cyclades islands like Mykonos. The people here are farmers and goat herders who tend their vineyards and live to a ripe old age. Its reputation as a health destination dates back 25 centuries. Ancient Greeks traveled for days (all the way from Athens) for the island’s healing hot springs. Odysseus may have stopped here for a soak on his way back from the Trojan War. Now, you can get here in about 11 hours by ferry from Athens (Piraeus); less than an hour by air.

Top longevity foods: feta cheese,

yogurt, honey, wild greens, olive oil, lemons, beans, lentils, and herbs. Ikarians make a tea out of mint and rosemary. For dinner, long-simmered stew of blackeyed peas, fennel, onions, garlic, carrots, tomatoes, olive oil, and a handful of wild herbs.

Experience: Book a stay on an organic farm and vineyard in Pigi, a traditional mountain village. Stay in rebuilt 16thto 19th-century stone cottages. Yogurt and homemade bread for breakfast. A complimentary bottle of wine every day. Foraging walks. Ikarian cooking classes. It is the closest you’ll get to living like local centenarians. ikarianwine.gr w Spring 2017 115


Sardinia, Italy

Away from the coastal cities and the international glitz of Costa Smeralda, the mountains of Sardinia look as wild as they did to the Phoenicians who anchored here circa 1000 B.C. When he was researching the Blue Zones, Buettner traveled down myrtle-androsemary-scented dirt roads to a dozen isolated whitewashed mountain villages on the island’s spine. He found a population of extraordinarily healthy centenarians and concluded that it was not only the food but “natural” exercise and social connections that kept people is such great shape. In Villagrande, he spent an afternoon with a baking circle— five women who get together to bake traditional sourdough bread. But before they bake, they chop wood, stoke the oven, and knead the dough for nearly an hour. Probably more exercise than going to the gym.

Top longevity foods: sheep cheese (pecorino), sourdough bread, fava beans, chickpeas, tomatoes, thistle tea, wine from grenache grapes. When fava beans are in season, a typical meal starts with raw fava beans, dipped in olive oil and salt. For the main, favas stewed in a broth of sun-dried tomatoes, onions, and olive oil. Experience: Su Gologone is one of the most famous agriturismos on the island. High-mountain setting, naturalfood restaurant, proximity to the Su Gologone Spring (the mineral water comes out of a cave), yoga in the herb garden, and classes on how to cook authentic Sardinian food. The folk art– filled rooms have a bohemian look— whitewashed walls, heavy linen bed curtains, sunshine-colored rugs, and cushions. And you are not far (but on winding, sometimes single-track roads) from Villagrande and the other Blue Zone villages. sugologone.it/en

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Middle, Tsuyoshi Ikeda/EyeEm/Getty Images; bottom, Yarn/iStock. Opposite: Top, Katja Kräder/awl-images/Getty Images; middle, Cebas/iStock; bottom left, Vladimir Gerasimov/iStock; bottom right, SolStock/iStock.

Ritz-Carlton, Okinawa

Okinawa, Japan

A string of 160 islands surrounded by the East China Sea and the Pacific Ocean, Okinawa is nearly 1,000 miles away from Tokyo. Its unique food tradition is more influenced by Southeast Asia than Japan. Ruins of 13th-century castles, reminders of its shogun past, still dominate the landscape. Buettner’s research found that Okinawans have one-fifth the cardiovascular disease, one-fourth the breast cancer, and one-third the rate of dementia of Americans. He attributes this, in part, to a culture of walking, year-round access to fresh medicinal herbs, homegrown vegetables, and a soy-based protein diet—and to a culture that honors the elderly: A 97th birthday triggers daylong celebrations, concluding with a parade through town in a convertible.

Top longevity foods: purple sweet potatoes, tofu, goya (a nubby, cucumber-like

gourd), bitter melon, rice, fish, green tea with turmeric, and a huge emphasis on seaweed, seafood, and home-grown vegetables. Pork is big—but cooked all day with the fat skimmed off hourly. You can eat traditional home cooking at Emi No Mise restaurant in Ogimi Village in the remote north of the main island. Chef Emiko Kinjo, a trained dietitian, teaches the old ways of cooking but is not averse to turning humble local ingredients into haute French cuisine—sans butter and heavy cream, of course.

Experience: Ritz-Carlton, in the rural north of Okinawa and overlooking the East China Sea, is a medieval castle-like hotel with massive walls and red tile roofs. A series of well-designed watercourses in the courtyards cool the tropical air. Gusuku restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offers local favorites like sea grapes, peanut tofu, seafood rice bowls, and the truly must-try goya champuru (stir-fried bitter melon and vegetables), the Okinawan national dish. The hotel can arrange a car to nearby Ogimi Village for lunch or a cooking class. When you’re leaving—for the day or forever—the doorman stands and waves good-bye until your car is out of sight. ritzcarlton.com w

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Big Bear Lake

Create your own Blue Zone. From all of his research, Dan Buettner found that there are basically nine lessons. He calls them the Power 9. Move Naturally. Walk a lot. Ride your bike.

As many as one-third of Loma Linda’s 22,000 residents are Seventh Day Adventists. Their faith inspires volunteerism and teaches them to treat their bodies like temples. Thus little or no meat, only small servings of fish, and no smoking, alcohol, coffee, tea, or any other caffeinated drinks. The one low-key McDonald’s has posters advertising veggie burgers. Saturday, a strictly observed Sabbath, creates a sanctuary from workday stress. Families go to church and then might gather with other families for a potluck picnic on the beach or up at Big Bear. Adventists have long been interested in longevity, health, and healthcare; Loma Linda University is one of the leading teaching hospitals in the country. Cooking classes and workshops in stress reduction are offered at the university’s Wholistic Medicine Clinic. publichealth.llu.edu

Top longevity foods: A “biblical” diet focused on grains, fruits, nuts, and vegetables. Many only drink water. Pesco-vegetarians eat plant-based food and up to one serving of fish per day, usually salmon. Sugar is taboo—except from natural sources like fruits, figs, and dates. Experience: Loma Linda is only 60 miles from Los Angeles but a world away. There are dozens of vegetarian and vegan restaurants within the city limits. Ethiopian. Greek. Japanese. Indian. Vegan Fresh—just opened and already a local favorite— offers plant-based Blue Zone sandwiches and burgers.

Downshift. Stress leads to chronic inflammation, associated with every major age-related disease. Slow down. Turn off your phone. Meditate. 80% Rule. Push away from the table when you’re still a little hungry. Plant Slant. Beans, legumes, and leafy greens are the cornerstone of most centenarian diets. Wine @ 5. Spend face time (not FaceTime) with family and friends. Moderate drinkers outlive nondrinkers (1–2 glasses of wine per day with friends and/or food). And no, you can’t save up all week and have 14 drinks on Saturday. Belong. Attend faith-based services regularly (no matter the denomination). This can add as many as 14 years to your life. Loved Ones First. Stay close to aging parents and grandparents. Commit to a life partner. Invest in your children. Right Tribe. The world’s longestlived people were born into (or chose) social circles that support healthy behaviors. Dan Buettner’s books are The Blue Zones: Lessons for Living Longer from the People Who’ve Lived the Longest and The Blue Zones Solution: Eating and Living Like the World’s Healthiest People. He is currently traveling the world, researching a book about happiness. bluezones.com

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Top: Ron and Patty Thomas/iStock; bottom, Schon & Probst/Picture Press/Getty Images.

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FOOD

Del Mar coast black cod from Santa Barbara ogo seaweed from n/naka.

CULINARY ARTISTRY Zen Sekizawa

RAW FISH AND PICKLED VEGETABLES SIT ASTRIDE A MOUND OF PEARLY RICE. A SINGLE KUMAMOTO OYSTER IS TOPPED WITH TINY SHARDS OF PONZU GRANITA. THE FOOD IS ALMOST TOO BEAUTIFUL TO EAT. ALMOST. by IRENE RAWLINGS

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season. Watercress. Fiddlehead fern greens. Bamboo shoots. Wasabina (young leaves of the wasabi plant). And, to help with digestion, foraged mountain plants (sansei). Japanese cuisine is built on the art of simplicity and subtraction. Michelin-starred Japanese chefs will tell you that the most powerful tool in the kitchen—more important than their set of perfect knives—is restraint. Taking beautiful, seasonal ingredients and doing as little to them as possible. While minimalism is admired in the cooking, the plating tends to be more opulent. In the spring, foods can be arranged to look like cherry blossoms. In the summer, rivers and waterfalls. In autumn, the red-leafed and ubiquitous Japanese maple. Traditional kaiseki meals (many small courses over a long period of time), often called “food for the eyes,” capture a single moment in time and place. At the heart of kaiseki dining is the Japanese principle of shun, meaning “seasonality” but, more precisely, using local ingredients at the peak of their freshness and the height of their natural beauty. This creates a perfect synergy between food and art. In addition, the several-course kaiseki meal is served in a calm atmosphere with subdued lighting, beautiful dinnerware, and elegant service. There are world-class kaiseki resturants in every city in Japan, and Tokyo has more stars than Paris, 10 years running.

Left, Erhard Pheiffer; top right, Adrián Gregorutti.

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n Japan, sitting down to dinner is not just about great food but also about preparation, presentation, and taking the time to admire the gorgeousness of what’s on your plate. This might not come as a surprise in formal, high-end (and very expensive) kaiseki restaurants. But, amazingly, it carries over to the humble train station boxed lunch (ekiben), the bento box meals for sale in Japanese department store food halls, and even a quick meal in an out-of-the-way café. Guests in a Japanese home are expected to admire the presentation and compliment the host. The same in restaurants. In addition, it’s expected that you will ask about the dish (and the dish on which it’s served). Dinnerware is specifically chosen to reflect the season. Maybe the handpainted, 100-year-old bowl was selected because the leaf pattern looks like young bamboo shoots. Or wabi-sabi plates— hand-thrown and endearingly imperfect. Local and seasonal is, of course, the mantra of most American and European restaurants, but in Japan seasonal ingredients are treated with reverence. Japanese chefs consider dozens of seasons (instead of just four) and select ingredients accordingly. In early spring, for example, every meal includes a bit of bitterness, a typical flavor for this


Opposite and bottom left: Kenzo Estate winery. This page top and bottom right: Kenzo.

In the United States there are several notable restaurants that serve traditional (washoku) Japanese cuisine. Many are helmed by innovative young chefs raised in the Japanese food culture (but fluent in others) who delight in fusing local ingredients with classic Japanese techniques. But only one restaurant is uber-authentic—to the point of importing water, fish, and seaweed directly from Japan. Kenzo (kenzoestate.com), a newly opened restaurant in Napa (make reservations at least a month in advance), is the epitome of authentic and refined kaiseki and Edo-style sushi. Even the walk up to the door—through a perfectly raked garden of black pebbles and Japanese maples—is calming. Inside, deliberately simple décor allows you to focus on the art of what’s being made for you. Kenzo and Natsuko Tsujimoto, owners of the highly acclaimed Kenzo Estate winery in Napa and several award-winning Kenzo Estate restaurants and tasting rooms in Japan, wanted “our guests to feel as if they are entering Japan when they step into our restaurant,” describes Tsujimoto. Authenticity stems from using traditional techniques. Three-Michelin-star chef Hiroku Kanda opened Kenzo and trained key culinary staff in his restaurant (Kanda) in Tokyo. Other top Michelin-starred chefs from Japan will come “in residence” to Napa to cook for Kenzo clients. But the restaurant

also pays attention to details like importing spring water for the dashi broth from Japan (the mineral content makes a subtle difference in taste). Fish for sushi comes fresh from Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. Kelp from Hokkaido. A traditional prix-fixe kaiseki menu (nine courses, including straw-seared salmon sashimi) and a prix-fixe sushi menu—served the moment it is prepared to ensure the proper temperature and freshness. Fellow Napa restaurateur and longtime Kenzo friend Thomas Keller (French Laundry) was one of the restaurant’s first guests. “I like the simplicity of Japanese food,” says Keller. “You take a piece of fish and some rice and make it so compelling visually … and in the way it smells and tastes. That’s distilling something down to its simplest form.” Japanese American chef Niki Nakayama’s Los Angeles restaurant n/naka (n-naka.com) has earned kudos for her modern take on kaiseki. “It is a different kind of kaiseki experience,” she says, “but the overall concept of honoring nature and the heart of Japanese cooking is still there.” She harvests (from her organic garden) and buys whatever’s in season. “I might season black cod with soy, miso, and ginger and pair it with a cauliflower purée,” she says, “or maybe an abalone pasta garnished with truffles, radish, and pickled cod roe.” And, of course, the presentation is stunning. w

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Bottom: Japanese sea bream sashimi from Shibumi. Opposite: Dorayaki (mini pancakes filled with sweet red and white bean paste) from Shibumi.

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Above and opposite bottom, Sierra Prescott; opposite, top, Zen Sekizawa.

In Beverly Hills, the upper echelon for omakase (chef’s choice) sushi is Nozawa Bar (nozawabar.com), a 10-person L-shaped bar/private dining area that has been intentionally hidden from the main Sugarfish dining room. Dinner seatings are Monday through Wednesday at 7:30 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday at 6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.. Book a month in advance. Cancellation fees of $100 per person are incurred with less than 48 hours’ notice. Chef Fujita prepares each of the 20 courses himself, handing them off to diners individually and insisting they eat immediately for ultimate flavor, texture, and temperature. Minimal décor—cloth napkin, chopsticks, chopstick holder, and water glass. On a recent visit: spiny lobster handroll, served warm; a giant Santa Barbara prawn, with just a few grains of sea salt and a squirt of lemon; for brininess and crunch, a slice of geoduck on a minty shiso leaf. Shibumi (shibumidtla.com), a new kappo-style, 40-seat restaurant on a not-quite-gentrified block in downtown Los Angeles, is worth a trip. Kappo-style, while less formal (and less expensive) than kaiseki, is not less authentic. With the quiet concentration of a Zen master, Japan-trained chef David Schlosser stands at a 400-year-old cypress counter, creating and assembling small dishes like grilled heritage pork with koji rice, house-pickled daikon, and slivers of leek. For a jolt of umami, cured cucumber stuffed with a crunchy mix of seeds,

leaves, and bonito. In spring, a cocktail made with cherry bark and the essence of cherry blossoms. In New York, Shuko and the brand-new Bessou are making waves. Chef-owners Jimmy Lau and Nick Kim (Kim was the head chef at the storied Masa; Lau at Bar Masa) work behind the crowded sushi bar at Shuko (shukonyc.com), creating the perfect meld of omakase and art. Maybe a flight of sea urchin or tuna belly tartare topped with a lilliputian scoop of buttery Osetra caviar. Bessou (bessou.nyc), an appealing 20-table hideaway on the Lower East Side, is owner Maiko Kyogoku and chef Emily Yuen’s (they met at Daniel Boulud’s restaurant Boulud Sud) interpretation of Japanese comfort food: sleek Inaniwa udon noodles and whatever’s-fresh-at-Union-SquareMarket vegetable tempura, gingery fish-head stew (arani), and plum sake sorbet for dessert. Washed down with seriously addictive barley tea. Kitsune (kitsunerestaurant.com) is Chicago chef Iliana Regan’s take on Japanese home cooking with a Midwestern sensibility. Dishes focus on the bounty of local farms and gardens—root to leaf, head to tail—prepared using the traditional Japanese methods: Kojo porridge bread (a sourdough made with Minnesota wild rice) and soulful tonkotsu ramen made with Iowa pork. Whether traditional or an American interpretation, a Japanese meal goes beyond the edible and engages all the senses.

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ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN

CREATIVE LICENSE PROPELLED BY SOMETHING IN THEIR DNA THAT RESISTS CONFORMITY, CREATIVE TYPES CRAVE HOMES WITH A SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE AND QUIRKINESS. by JORGE S. ARANGO

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Roger Davies

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T

Top left Christian R. Terry; all others Roger Davies.

hat ephemeral quality of creativity can manifest in myriad ways—in re-imaginings of old styles, in subtle insouciances incongruously disturbing our set notions, and as provocative, in-your-face gestures that snap us out of our reveries. The people who own the homes featured here are more interested in stimulation than safety in the environments they inhabit. There’s nothing generic about them.

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1. BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA

Architecture: Abramson Teiger Architects, abramsonteiger .com Interiors: Storm Interiors, storminteriors.com Square feet: 12,500 Bedrooms: 7 Baths: 10 full; 2 powder Boldest/Quirkiest Move: So many! Gold-plated fretwork ceiling lining corridor to master suite; powder room wrapped in peacock feather wallpaper; largest pool in Los Angeles (lined in Bisazza tile). “A lot of nice houses are very vanilla,” says TV producer Trina Venit. “I

really cared about having a home that was interesting.”

When

she saw what designer Lara Sachs-Fishman of Storm Interiors had done

with her husband’s office (Adam Venit, founder of Endeavor Talent Agency and head of the talent and motion picture department at WME/IMG), she knew Sachs-Fishman was the one to help. The Italianate exterior of their home overlooking Franklin Canyon belies the explosion of colors inside, the precious materials, and the fascinatingly varied surface treatments—

foyer paneling that looks like a wood puzzle, a pool bath swathed in slabs

of tourmaline. “She’s very daring and creative,” says Sachs-Fishman of her client, explaining, “she loved color and glamour, so she wanted statement

pieces.” Lighting choices, in particular, are stunning. But the details seem infinite, right down to every door, custom-designed with five panels to

represent the Venits’ five children. “It’s a once-in-a-lifetime job,” concludes Sachs-Fishman. w

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2. NEW YORK, NEW YORK

Architecture: DHD Architecture and Design, dhd.nyc Interiors: Ghislaine Viñas Interior Design, gvinteriors.com Square feet: 4,000 Bedrooms: 3 Baths: 2.5 Boldest/Quirkiest Move: Strong, graphic art matched by unapologetic color palette. Designer Ghislaine Viñas loves collaborating with artists “because they understand and appreciate the

creative process from a personal level.” So artist Marco Domeniconi and his wife Maria Teresa Blanco

were perfect clients. Architect David Howell’s loft-like white space required individual areas delineated by what Domeniconi calls color blocks. Viñas’ strategy? “Warm colors in the belly of the apartment and cool colors at

the ends,” she explains. Rounded forms and softer textures counter the loft’s right angles. And walls showcase

Domeniconi’s art (a quartet of abstractions by the living room’s vertical garden) but also other artists’ work: an

Gianni Franchellucci

enormous commissioned painting by Leandro Manzo and an Alexander Calder nestled in the red dining area

(Blanco adored red); Benjamin Degan’s bikini-clad odalisque in the living room; and a Gabriele Bertazzoli nude in a library. “If you took down the art,” says Viñas, “it would feel very different.” w

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3. SENTOSA ISLAND, SINGAPORE

Architecture: Landry Design Group, landrydesigngroup.com Interiors: Homeowner with Giorgetti, giorgettimilano.it Square feet: 9,500 Bedrooms: 7 Baths: 10 Boldest/Quirkiest Move: A dramatically swooping, undulating stair in a champagne bronze metal finish with a banister featuring freeform cutouts of glass. “All over East Asia houses look very carbon-copy,” says Malaysian-born Kara Kandarakis. As founder of Londonbased production company Tri-Force Entertainment, whose repertoire spans everything from documentaries to

extreme sports, that wasn’t an option. She called Landry Design Group. Architect William Mungall, an associate with Landry Design Group, took inspiration from the lot. “Rather than rectilinear, it had a 7-degree cant,” he

explains, “so we used that angle throughout the plans. To counter the exterior’s boxiness, however, inside we came up with fluid lines.” A curvaceous stair swoops upward from the foyer, and overhead in many rooms ceilings

Erhard Pfeiffer

are composed of stacked layers of concentric amoebic forms. The master bedroom’s canopy looks like a wave in

motion. Kandarakis worked with Italian firm Giorgetti on interiors, assembling voluptuous furniture silhouettes

that softened the hard angles. And, she observes, “We layered textures—leather, suede, curtain fabrics

that were dense rather than see-through, rugs of silk bamboo.” w

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4. WILTON, CONNECTICUT

Architecture: Robert Dean Architects LLC, robertdeanarchitects .com Interiors: Carrier & Company Interiors, Ltd., carrierandco .com Square feet: 4,000 Bedrooms: 5 Baths: 4 Boldest/ Quirkiest Move: “The crazy mix of materials and styles,” says Jesse Carrier, “Robsjohn-Gibbings chairs in Fortuny fabric, a Chippendale breakfront, contemporary Chinese paintings, a 1970s Italian travertine coffee table. They never had any fear of mixing.” Opportunity often arises from tragedy. When an electrical fire started in the home of Esquire editor Jay Fielden and his wife Yvonne Ortieg Fielden, “

they were home, so lots of things were shuttled out,” recalls designer Mara

Miller. In 2007, Miller, her husband Jesse Carrier, and architect Robert Dean

had renovated the house, originally built in 1960 by a protégé of Louis Kahn. Damage was mostly smoke-related, but, Miller adds, “[t]he things that didn’t

survive were some of the earthier midcentury details,” such as wood paneling. So the designers decided to update. “Where we could,” says Carrier, “we

made gestures to more contemporary elements.” Walls are now mostly white. A brown library became gray, a more au courant backdrop for photos from

magazines Fielden has helmed, including Men’s Vogue and Town & Country. A staircase was opened up, and the palette lightened. “The original

1960 feel is alive and kicking,” concludes Carrier, yet it’s also at home in the now.

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w


Zach DeSart

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5. PARIS, FRANCE

Architecture: John Butterworth Architect, johnbutterwortharch .com Interiors: Shawn Henderson Interior Design, shawn henderson.com Square feet: 1,750 Bedrooms: 2 Baths: 2 Boldest/Quirkiest Move: A pristine minimalist discipline paired with mutable lighting effects that transform the space into an art installation. Nancy Gibson, alumnus of Merrill Lynch and Lehman Brothers, listened to

her inner prêt-à-porter designer, trading the vagaries of wealth management to revivify Edith A. Miller, known for its basic tees. Then she charged architect

John Butterworth and designer Shawn Henderson to revamp her Paris piedà-terre, actually four tiny combined apartments in an early 20th–century

building overlooking the Champs-Élysées. “We needed to achieve the French feeling of enfilade,” says Butterworth, “but also to close off different areas for privacy.” Fortuny-lined cotton curtains by Loro Piana and various glass walls illuminated with changeable effects (controlled on Gibson’s smartphone) accomplished this objective. Then Henderson’s painstakingly curated

furnishings received a neutral envelope, he says, “so it would be about the

objects, which would be sculptural, like artwork.”

Iconic designs—

Shiro Kuramata Moon chairs, a Poul Kjaerholm coffee table, Philippe Hiquily side tables, an Angelo Mangiarotti dining table, a prototype daybed by Fabricius & Kastholm—exude a renegade sophistication.

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6. NEW YORK, NEW YORK

Interiors: Elisa Shankle, Homepolish, homepolish.com Square feet: 2,200 Boldest/Quirkiest Move: “The bathroom print of different shapes and sizes of breasts,” says designer Elisa Shankle, “really represents the girl power energy that the client [Man Repeller] embodies.” You wouldn’t expect that designing offices for author and blogger Man Repeller (aka Leandra Medine) after the multimedia company had outgrown its original

digs would yield plain vanilla interiors. Medine’s insouciant wit and unapologetic

insistence that women’s fashion should please women—not the men they date—has earned the brand worldwide attention precisely because of its unique voice. “Our major goals,” says Medine, “were setting up a small studio space where we could

shoot our still-life photography and developing quiet corners for writers to work

comfortably without our business development and sales teams feeling like they have to whisper.” Elisa Shankle, one of the New York–based designers for Homepolish,

created a “super flexible” layout “that lends itself to the creative voices

that come in and out of the office,” says the designer. Glass partitions provide

privacy without blocking light, and the conference room doubles as a studio. Medine’s

office desk adorned with orange desk accessories, as well as the chairs and light fixture in the conference room, are thanks to brand partner All Modern. Shankle says the

“vibrant floral sideboard that’s a beautiful lacquer with fabric panels,” also from All

Modern, blends Medine’s indomitable spirit with her preoccupation with fashion. w

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Top, Stefan Turner Aeria Photographyl; middle and bottom, Woodruff-Brown Architectural Photography. Opposite: William Waldron.

7. GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT

Architecture: Charles Hilton Architects, hiltonarchitects.com Interiors: Davenport North, davenportnorth.net Square feet: 7,000 Bedrooms: 3 Baths: 3 Boldest/Quirkiest Move: Overthe-top kitchen with various special amenities and spaces that service it. Every creative profession has tools of the trade. A painter requires paint, a writer needs a computer (or pen and paper). But a professional chef ’s

creativity is considerably enhanced when a much wider array of equipment

and accoutrements is on hand. When Charles Hilton was asked to design a

guesthouse for a well-known chef that would basically function as a machine for entertaining, the Norman-style structure that resulted accommodated

not just any kitchen. “We made it wide open and framed it with a

27-foot antique beam,” he explains, then goes on to list all the extra

perquisites designed into and around it: “a root cellar, a ‘receiving room’ for

cleaning produce from the organic farm outside, a tremendous pantry closet, a wine cellar, custom steel-lined cabinets for baking sheets, and a cooking

fireplace.” Hilton built in authenticity by using recycled timbers, custom-made bricks, and Camargue limestone from France. Designer Isabelle Vanneck added sumptuous furnishings, including lilac velvet-upholstered dinner seating for 18.

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8. WESTERLY, RHODE ISLAND

Architecture: Ike Kligerman Barkley, ikekligermanbarkley.com Interiors: Heather Wells, heatherwells.com Square feet: 7,000 Bedrooms: 7 Baths: 5.5 Boldest/Quirkiest Move: Creating livability and generous spaces within significant building restraints, and a nearly black lacquer living room at the core of the house. Nothing triggers inventiveness like limitations. “We had to find creativity

within a very proscribed envelope,” says architect Thomas Kligerman of the

home he designed for Jeanne McWilliams Blasberg, a writer whose first novel, Eden, comes out in May. Because of coastal FEMA regulations, he recalls,

“we had to elevate it 15 inches above mien high tide.” Local ordinances also

limited height and, says Blasberg, “I like modernist glass homes. Tom figured a way to put a modernist glass box inside a shingle structure that would fit

into its surroundings.” Kligerman viewed the project as a folding

and unfolding of forms like origami, most notable in a dramatic gable

at one end “that got very expressionistic.” Designer Heather Wells was also

surprised her client agreed to lacquering a living room in an almost-black blue. “Most people wouldn’t do that, especially in a summer house.” But, she points out, it reflects light and offers a cooling respite from the sun. w

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BUILD UP

DISSECTING THE DESIGN OF A $250 MILLION SPEC HOME. In the 1930s, Walter P. Chrysler battled John Raskob and Pierre S. du Pont in the race to build the tallest skyscraper (the latter duo’s Empire State won). The rivalry for the largest stadium never ceases (after 2014 renovations, North Korea’s Rungrado May Day Stadium—capacity 150,000—surpassed Michigan Stadium, with its mere 107,601 capacity). As we go to press, developer Bruce Makowsky appears to have won the challenge to build the most expensive home in America, a statement in contemporary architecture that draws inspiration from the design and organization of a mega-yacht. The Bel Air home measures 38,000 interior square feet, with an additional 17,000 of integrated structural entertainment decks. It’s on the market for $250 million. “There are only 3,000 people in the world who can afford my house,” says Makowsky, a former executive with Nine West, with his wife Kathy van Zeeland, of women’s accessories, which they sold on QVC and in major department stores. “I’ve been designing things for the past 30 years—nine homes in California, tons of shoes, handbags, and jewelry … it’s incredibly rewarding.” The jaw-dropping price tag is due not simply to architecture and construction. To say the home comes fully loaded is, frankly, like calling Tom Brady just another quarterback. Makowsky collaborated with luxury furniture, w 146 Spring 2017


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Berlyn Photography


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Berlyn Photography

lighting, and accessories ateliers in France and Italy—including Poltrona Frau, Luxury Living’s Bentley brand, and Hermès—to create interiors that are completely bespoke. Makowsky also explains that he worked with the finest stone yards in the world for horizontal and vertical surfaces throughout the house. “There are over 50 kinds of stone in the house,” he says. Adorning these interiors are more than 100 art installations, including works by Makowsky himself (he’s repped by, he says, seven galleries in Europe and four in the United States) and pieces by contemporary artists such as China’s Liao Yibai. Certain features were extremely complex to pull off, such as an elliptical stairway that appears to levitate between floors. It took eight months to engineer at a cost of $2 million, says Makowsky, and another two years to build. Its swooping stainless-steel sheathing is anchored at the top and the bottom. Outside, an 18 by 12–foot “pop-up” screen allows cinema viewing by the pool. The term “pop-up” makes something intensely difficult sound easy. In fact, says Makowsky, “we had to dig down 25 feet into bedrock to place the hydraulic system down there. Two spiral lifts move the screen up.” There are also, he says, “$30 million worth of cars, including two hyper cars, and motorcycles, lots of them first editions.” These are displayed in a sprawling “auto gallery” and lounge, which is adjacent to the four-lane bowling alley and nightclub/bar area that looks out to the city. Some other amenities? A 40seat 4K Dolby Atmos theater, an entertainment lounge and gaming center, a penthouse office with spectacular views of Los Angeles, a helipad, a wellness center, two master suites and 10 guest suites, 21 bathrooms, three kitchens, and a staff of seven. Among the more unique art installations are a 5 by 10– foot Leica camera (at the cost of $1 million) and a 20 by 9–foot safe wall that marks the back of a staircase like a permanent exhibit. The list is endless. “It’s a feeling that when you walk in, you never want to leave,” says Makowsky of this passion project. Certainly, he’s given the home’s eventual buyers plenty of reasons not to descend from their aerie. “It’s sensory overload,” he concludes. That’s putting it mildly.


WHEN FA I L U R E I S N ’ T AN OPTION H I G H - S E C U R I T Y L U X U RY S A F E S A N D WAT C H W I N D E R S K E E P YO U R C O L L E C T I O N S E C U R E LY O R G A N I Z E D A N D R U N N I N G I N TO P F O R M

Ph.(760) 233-2293 www.BrownSafe.com

Ph.(800) 800-4436 www.Orbita.com


FURNISHINGS Spring Finds

CHILD’S PLAY

THE DEVELOPMENTAL CLAIMS OF THE MOZART EFFECT ARE DISPUTED STILL. BUT IT SEEMS PLAUSIBLE TO PROPOSE THAT EARLY EXPOSURE TO GOOD DESIGN HELPS CHILDREN ACQUIRE AN APPRECIATION FOR ITS FUNCTIONAL AND AESTHETIC VIRTUES. WHY SHOULDN’T A RISOM CHAIR OR STARCK LAMP EVOKE FOND MEMORIES THE WAY COTTON CANDY OR A FAVORITE DOLL DOES? WE THINK THESE PRODUCTS HELP BUILD SOPHISTICATED CHILDREN.

Renowned fashion illustrator Carlos Aponte gives the phrase “fashion buzz” new meaning with A Season to Bee, a colorfully illustrated children’s book about the glamorous world of an apian fashion editor. Penguin Books, $18, penguinrandomhouse.com.

by JORGE S. ARANGO Convertible cribs that start as beds for infants and transition through childhood are fine, but the Margaux Dresser’s modern aesthetic is so elegant it could conceivably morph from changing table to bar cart! Made of powder-coated steel and solid ash, it’s topped with Brazilian Azul Macauba granite. Nursery Works, from $5,500, nurseryworks.net.

Furniture designer Kenneth Cobonpue, known for innovative designs woven of natural materials in the Philippines, was inspired by Babar for this elephant desk, which is made of wood and rattan, with corkboard ears. Kenneth Cobonpue, $6,500, kennethcobonpue.com.

Jens Risom—who passed away last year at the ripe old age of 100—designed these side chairs and Amoeba table in 1943. These scaled-down versions for kids are made of lacquered beech. The side chairs’ nylon webbing is available in a variety of colors. Knoll, $271 (per chair) and $500 (table), knoll.com.

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U.K. designers Harriet Wallace-Jones and Emma Sewell have supplied bedspreads to boutique hotels and scarves for the Tate Modern and Barneys, and they’ve been guest designers for West Elm. Their Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic now graces 100 percent lamb’s wool baby blankets Jackson (blue) and Niamh (red). Wallace Sewell, approximately $185, wallacesewell.com.

Left: The Bambi chair channels Danish design (it’s made by Copenhagen-based Elements Optimal) through the lens of Japanese designer Takeshi Sawada. The Bambi is made of European oak and American black walnut with faux fawn fur. Kinder Modern, $340 each, kindermodern.com.

Produced in a limited edition of 300, this skateboard adapts imagery from Doubleluck, a 1995 multimedia work by artist Robert Rauschenberg. It’s made of 3-ply Canadian maple wood. MoMA Design Store, $200, store.moma.org.

Circu, an Italian company, makes fantasy children’s beds, including this Little Mermaid bed, which shelters your precious little pearl inside an illuminated clam shell that sits atop a bed of rocks. Circu, price upon request, circu.net.

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PET PROJECTS

SURE, WE’LL BITE. THE MARKET FOR THOUGHTFULLY CONCEIVED PET PRODUCTS HAS EXPLODED. THERE’S NO LONGER A NEED TO HIDE THE DOG BED OR CREATE AN OUT-OFSIGHT SPACE FOR YOUR FELINES TO ROMP AND SCRATCH. THESE NEW GOODS WILL BE THE DOG’S BONE AND CAT’S MEOW FOR YOUR FAVORITE FOUR-LEGGED

This Melbourne, Australia–based skin and beauty company is extending its signature high-quality products into the world of pets. Among the ingredients in its pet shampoo are sea salt and various natural oils, including spearmint, lemon peel, and tea tree. – sop, $39, aesop.com. Ae

FRIENDS.

Italian designer Miriam Mirri sees function in pulling your pet’s tail. Instead of stooping, you simply grab the Tigrito cat bowl by its wagger to clean and refill. Lupita, a dog version, also available. Alessi, $70, storealessi.com.

California designer Rahil Taj’s modernist MDK9 Dog Haus is made of Brazilian teak, powder-coated steel, and concrete and comes with custom bedding by Jax & Bones and custom name plaque by Modern House Numbers. Rah:Design, $3,650, rahdesign-la.com.

Resistant to mold, mildew, and chlorine, these washable, vaguely bone-shaped pet mats feature a puppy cutout at their center. Chilewich, $25 each, chilewich.com.

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The Oshu house provides strikingly angular shelter for the modernist pet. Composed of powder-coated steel perforated for light and made to order, it requires two to three weeks to manufacture. Bad Marlon, approximately $460, marlonshop.com.

Small, medium, and large “Pooccillos” are pet beds (or floor cushions) made in Australia of colorful, individually hand-printed designs on 100 percent natural canvas. Pooccio, approximately $160–$300, pooccio.com.

Hand-tied and colored with nontoxic vegetable dyes, Good Karma dog toys act like floss as they fray. Ten percent of proceeds are donated to animal rescue and welfare groups. Jax & Bones, $10–$18, jaxandbones.com. The Abby Multifunctional Leash, made of leather, can be adapted to six different uses and lengths, including a short traffic leash, a long explorer leash, and a hands-free cross-body leash. Handmade in the United States. Max-Bone, $125, max-bone.com.

Pet jackets of Italian cow leather or crocodile-embossed lamb leather, insulated with polyester fill, lined with faux suede, and finished with handmade antiqued brass hardware. Wolfpack NYC, $375–$425, wolfpacknyc. Two turned steel hemispheres join to form the out-of-this-world Apollo pet bed, whose name alludes to NASA’s game-changing Apollo missions that landed men on the moon from 1963 to 1972. Superfine, price upon request, petsuperfine.com. w Spring 2017 153


COLLABORATIVE EFFORT COMPANIES ENLIST THE TALENTS OF FASHIONABLE DESIGNERS FOR GOOD REASON: A DESIGNER’S SINGULAR VISION IS TUNED INTO THE CULTURAL ZEITGEIST IN A VERY SPECIFIC WAY, WHICH BRINGS AN UNEXPECTED, UP-TO-THE-MOMENT PERSPECTIVE TO THE USUAL WARES MANUFACTURERS PRODUCE AND RETAILERS SELL. BY STRETCHING THEIR AESTHETIC POSSIBILITIES IN SURPRISING AND NOVEL WAYS, THESE FIRMS’ PRODUCTS REMAIN FRESH AND RELEVANT. THESE NEW DESIGNER OFFERINGS ARE PROOF.

Los Angeles–based designer Windsor Smith just released a 40-piece collection of lighting, furniture, and accessories that pares down classical forms and motifs, including this Atheneum fixed chandelier (shown in antique brass finish). Arteriors, $1,800, arteriorshome.com.

Parisian architect and designer Jean-Louis Deniot’s collection of furniture, lighting, and accessories exudes his signature reinterpretation of classical design language and forms through a modern prism, including this Heliodor dining table. Baker, from approximately $8,000, bakerfurniture.com.

Christian Lacroix Maison’s Sacha Walckhoff has created a collection of customizable case goods and upholstery pieces that showcases the design house’s signature ebullient colors and patterns, as in these dining chairs. Roche-Bobois, $1,470, roche-bobois.com.

Puiforcat, established in 1820, has commissioned Paris-based architect Joseph Dirand for Bureau d’Architecte, a limited-edition collection of nine brass desk accessories plated with silver and gold. Puiforcat, $580–$19,500, puiforcat.com.

South African–born designer Ross Cassidy launched his first collection for CB2 this spring. It’s characterized by minimal forms in unusual finishes, such as the Raba desk, which takes the shape of a luxurious sawhorse of whitewashed oak and gilded legs. CB2, $999, cb2.com. 154 Spring 2017


Zaha Hadid’s Forma grater resembles a river rock. The mirror-polished steel surface is punctured with variously sized holes to produce a unique, unevenly textured grating that enhances any dish. It’s cradled in a sculptural black base that also holds the cheese. Alessi, $80, alessi.com.

Nendo’s Layers bookshelf is made of clear glass, with laminated glass doors in various colors (“cool” colorway shown here; also comes in “warm” yellows, reds, oranges) that are suspended from the top shelf and can be moved to create variable chromatic effects. Glas Italia, $11,201, ddcnyc.com. The French studio Jars Ceramistes’ new dishwashersafe stoneware collection, Jardin de Maguelone, comes in an array of soft, bright hues. Jars Ceramistes, British designer Lee Broom $10–$18.50, has channeled the spirit of Josiah Wedgwood’s iconic 18thjarsceramistes.com. century Jasperware designs, taking particular inspiration from the black-and-white stripes of Wedgwood’s Panther Vase, into a limited-edition collection (15 of each piece) available exclusively through Harrods. Wedgwood, approximately $9,030–$14,500, harrods.com.

Doheny Small, shown here in Ebony Blend, is one of four patterns within the Liaison collection of tile designs by Kelly Wearstler for Ann Sacks. Ann Sacks, from approximately $60 per square foot, annsacks.com.

Top Right: Alessandro Milani

Vicente Wolf ’s Bali bed re-creates his own bed at his Montauk, New York, home. It displays his recognizable fusion of Asian-inspired design (a Chinese bed in oversized proportion) with modern elements and materials (a brushed steel rail headboard). RH Modern, $5,495, rhmodern.com.

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OTHERWORLDLY

THE POWER OF THE ART SIDE OF DESIGN. by ALISON CLARE STEINGOLD

A

s much as technology has given way to 3-D printer production, deep appreciation for the hands-on craftsmanship of decorative arts continues to grow. But as that world evolves, so do the parameters that define it. “There’s this other category. It doesn’t fall as strictly designer, artist, or artisan,” explains Sean Yashar, founder of The Culture Creative (theculturecreative.com), an artist/creative agency. “It’s not fine arts or making a collectible but toward conceptual craft. There are people whose mastery of skills in now-obsolete trades really makes you wonder if it’s in their DNA. It’s as if they should have been in another time. They find themselves in what you could call the art side of design.” w

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From far left: David Wiseman; DISC Interiors, Dougall Paulson.

Middle, D. Gilbert

There are people whose mastery of skills in now-obsolete trades really makes you wonder if it’s in their DNA. It’s as if they should have been in another time.

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This page: David Wiseman. Opposite: Dougall Paulson.

PHILOSOPHY, FROM FORAGE TO FOUNDRY

Picture a barbed plain-front compound along a stretch of LA not quite here (Atwater Village) or there (Glassell Park). Buzz through, and the unmistakable scent of melted wax heralds entry to the rich, imaginative world of David Wiseman (dwiseman.com). Here, installations in process, materials, and test pieces occupy every cranny, molds organized and catalogued. Ceramics stations are indoors; outdoor areas are dedicated to wax and welding, casting, chasing, grinding, and polishing. Like an author speaking through his characters, Wiseman cultivates the fine detail and voices of nature. You might look up to see a handsome branch chandelier awaiting its patina, or a lonely egg-like bronze pendant, suspended, which has “cracked” open to reveal, like a window into its soul, a flurry of painstakingly applied porcelain flora. Meanwhile, a scattershot of motifs cast as a table is actually Wiseman’s take on a bowerbird’s collaged assemblage to woo his mate. No doubt the studio cat is fascinated by the tiny bronze mouse hanging from its tail. W iseman is quick to give all the credit to the materials. “The past 10 years in this studio have really been an exploration of observing what happens to molten metal. I love patterns and figuring out ways to make them functional,” he explains. Still, balancing the masculine and the feminine, the elements

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of nature, the voids and lava-like flow against a table’s geometry and rigidity—such exploration requires a deft hand. His pitch-perfect bronze and porcelain installations are neither indulgent nor superficial in their application of aesthetic to form. Another century may have settled for a ceiling medallion; Wiseman transforms a dining room ceiling into an immersive white canopy of 3-D blossoms and delicate branches crawling organically across surfaces. His most recent commissions and edition of rugs collage his natural motifs and centuries-old decorative arts patterning onto various floorcoverings and large jali-like bronze screens. Meandering Asian motifs swirl and dissolve into layers of something utterly modern and fresh. With solo gallery shows, a book, and the design fair circuit already under his belt, Wiseman is now shifting gears. Over the next year, he’s developing a 30,000-square-foot gallery and studio in the hidden sliver along the LA River known as Frogtown, alongside his brother, Ari Wiseman, who most recently served as deputy director of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation. This setting will provide ample space to continue working with private clients and commissions, and engage a more diverse set of projects. “I’m making things for people, and I don’t want to lose sight of that,” he says.


Opposite, top and middle, Meghan Bob

UNDERSTANDING THE MATTER

The structureless world of design is a wild frontier. Museums, galleries, advisors, and fairs exist at the high end, yet not with the centralized sway of their parallel industries. “Design” has been embraced, meanwhile, as a vague catchall phrase. Society is no stranger to the conceptual. But the reality of the “art side of design” means forging new approaches to understand (and safeguard) the ingenuity of their works. While interior designers serve clients, and galleries are straddling to serve client and designer, a handful of individuals, such as design PR expert Yashar, now scout and manage talents in this niche. “Look at our neighboring

creative disciplines like fine arts and music. There’s precedent for management,” says Yashar, who identified this need and added management to his thriving design PR/branding agency, The Culture Creative. “For us, the real, true talent needs to be supported, to develop and understand the arc of it all. Because while you’re out there being tortured as much as any famous artist about that exceptional chair you’re designing, someone saw it who’s not tortured, who’s a hustler, who will knock it off, distribute it, make money on it, and get the credit for it before you’re even ready to show it.” One emerging client, Dougall Paulson (dougallpaulson .com), has thought up a worthy framework to understand their highly conceptual work. From the second floor of a converted light-bulb factory in the rough-around-the-edges LA patch rather appropriately named Watts, their live-work floorplan is modular yet dotted with objects of permanence: giant cutting tables, étagères of glazes, and half-glazed vessels in progress; Sean Dougall’s ceramics stations and kilns; and Andrew Paulson’s brilliant metallic threads and looms. The design duo has begun to envision their growing oeuvre as narrative, with collections—Dark Matter, Spectrum, and Ocean of Emptiness—serving as visual storytelling. The first chapter of Ocean of Emptiness, their newest collection, is “Auraform,” which will be shown at Blackman Cruz gallery in LA. If you remember how Pink Floyd travels through various songs in a narrative concept album like The Wall, a DP journey is analogous: a burst star through the infinity of consciousness, illuminated and explored through their designed objects. They conjure a sort of big-bang explosion from distant reaches in sculpted, fossil-like ceramic sconces and pendant lighting that practically radiate with a halo effect of rays and hot spots. “In Ocean of Emptiness, we’re looking inversely from Dark Matter, looking to and inside the cosmos, and water, and playing with that,” says Dougall. Perspective is central to their imagining the future of looking back. The beginnings of a next chapter hang near one weaving station. It appears to be a floorcovering, though intricately woven with bright metal, a pure silver pigment vaporized over rice paper, then split and wound onto nylon. Sound wild? We’re not done. The piece is literally a back-andforth conversation between Paulson on the loom, where he innovates tensile weaving methods to manage such unruly material, and Dougall, whose abstract sketches on paper are knotted out on the piece. Dougall then carves the topographic pile-weave into 3-D forms that resemble some otherworldly oceanic critter or coral fantasy. (And for outside projects—short stories, so to speak— they’re delving into hospitality design with every last installation and vessel for the new jewel-box restaurant Giulia in downtown LA. There’s also an ethereal holographmeets-Japanese tatami weaving for an upcoming show in Paris curated by perfume brand Régime des Fleurs.) Whatever craft employed to work through each collection, be it fiber arts or even graphic design/identity work, is all process. Borrowing a more bookish or musical lexicon frees the designer to be called, simply, a designer. Instead of multihyphenates or the desire to put sculptors or fiber artists in a box, the implication is that he or she might be skilled in and employ any number of decorative arts to complete a chapter. w

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BETTER TOGETHER, AND LIVING

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value is often attributed posthumously. “It has been one of the hallmarks of my auction career to champion the work of living artists and makers,” she says. “Many have gallery sales but may not have an existing auction record … The more challenging the market, the tendency can be to concentrate on the big established names. I would actually argue that this is the time to take more risks. I believe collectors are hungry to be introduced to new and fresh design.” But don’t hold your breath for any Mongiardo Studio pieces to come up at auction any time soon, or even the opportunity for the family to buy back their pieces. Recently, when a marquee brand renovated one of its boutiques, the Mongiardo Studio furniture was tucked away in storage rather than discarded or auctioned. “Our intention is to make something last generations. As long as we can possibly make it last,” says Monjardo. “So that’s a compliment.”

Top and bottom: DISC Interiors.

D. Gilbert

Collaborating with interior designers and galleries on custom works and commissions is very much a key reality of today’s working designer. “It’s more exciting when you find someone who’s interested in craft and spaces,” says David John Dick, co-principal of Los Angeles–based DISC Interiors (discinteriors.com), whose 2014 Sunset Magazine Idea House concept home was a veritable funhouse of custom commissions with lighting by Jason Koharik and murals by Londubh Studio, among others. “When something is specific for the space, it becomes integrated. Like Chahan in Paris and Peter Marino working with the Haas Brothers, some designers have constant collaboration in their repertoire, which, to me, is far more interesting than buying a piece of artwork for the walls. People like David Wiseman are very important in that discussion,” he adds. With trade clients so sensitive to achieving flawless color and results, using precious materials, and other experimental methods, every step of the custom process is critical. Second-generation furniture designer and finisher Taj Monjardo (mongiardostudio.com) ensures rigorous testing has gone into each of his studio’s fabricated pieces. A desk whose R&D has already been completed might take 200 man-hours to produce, while complex custom residential work might require thousands of hours. Monjardo has ambitious motivations for his studio, set deep in the summer escape of southwest Massachusetts known as the Berkshires. He has carried on the direction of his father’s art deco furniture business. Monjardo père began custom design with Michael Chow for Giorgio Armani boutiques, pivoting the business from almost entirely restoration to fabrication of custom pieces, high-end retail collaborations, and reproductions. Today, Taj also develops freestanding pieces with A-list designers and architects such as Peter Marino for Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Bulgari, and Christian Dior boutiques worldwide. He is pioneering processes such as carving heat-resistant mica with different textures for rich and deep reflections on side tables, and playing with prismatic paint used for hotrod cars—a nod to his father’s beginnings in the auto industry. The results are magnificent, from carving unusual geometric prisms encased in thick, layered cast-acrylic to rosewood veneer dining tables on x-bases that would make Jean-Michel Frank smile. “I want to be making the things that no one has ever seen before—the pieces that are going to be reproduced in 100 years,” he says. Of anyone, he’d understand the criteria; while the other kids toyed with Fisher-Price playsets, this selfprofessed “shop kid” was raised with his hands on the finest French art deco furniture in the world: the Ruhlmanns, the Chareaus, the Grays. So today, the handiwork and integrity of the masters is there, albeit crafted with contemporary thought and modern materials. The great news is that continued interest in collecting only fuels the market for its contemporary “art side of design.” An alum of Los Angeles Modern Auctions, Heritage Auctions, and Bonhams, Katie Nartonis (thenartonisproject .com) curates in the field to bring fine design to auction. She assists private clients and makers of American Studio Design to place collections (think along the lines of a $150,000 Brazilian modern collection or a $70,000–$90,000 Sam Maloof dining set from 1964). Her focus is unusual in an auction environment where


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GLASS ACTS

MEET THE TRAILBLAZERS WHO’VE REDEFINED GLASS ARTISTRY.

T

by PAUL RUBIO

he heated manipulation of a single, versatile, silica-based solid—glass— dates to millennia before Christ, evidenced by discovery of the first glass-blown bottles in present-day Iran. Through human invention, innovation, and trade, glass has since impacted history, economics, culture, science, technology, and art through multiple identities, most recently catching global attention as a highly specialized decorative art form. Glass art has always been and will always be a handson, labor-intensive affair and a technique-driven medium, from traditional furnace glassblowing to lampworking to

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hot sculpting and cold-glass sculpting. Craftsmanship comes into play at all levels: the conceptualization, the execution under heat, the realization of a larger artistic story. It’s the most imaginative narratives that fetch the highest market price, reflecting novelty, design, intricacy, size, and, of course, demand for an artist’s signature style. Technological improvements in tools and torches and access to new colors palettes (thanks to increased manufacturing of colored glass) have simply raised the stakes of the trade. Here, we present seven artisans, past and present, whose distinctive glasswork reveals the most complicated and riveting stories, and who embody the grand evolution of the modern glass art movement.


LINO TAGLIAPIETRA Born August 10, 1934, in Murano, Venice, Italy. Legacy It was destiny for Lingo Tagliapietra to become glass art royalty. Born and raised on the historic glass-making island of Murano and apprentice by the age of 11 under glass artist Archimede Seguso, the path was set. By age 21 he was an official glass maestro, who ultimately became famous for his impeccable cane working (the highly complicated technique of adding patterns and stripes to glass-blown objects). His iconic Dinosaur and Angel Tear series is a rewarding journey down the glass-blown rabbit hole, as are his myriad other glass vessel collections. Buy/See Tagliapietra’s works are on permanent display at 25 museums throughout the United States, and the most up-to-date information on his traveling exhibitions is found on his website, linotagliapietra.com. It is possible to visit his two studios—one in Murano and the other in Seattle, Washington—by appointment only, and to purchase his work at nine fine art galleries throughout North America (also detailed on the site), including Heller Gallery in New York City and Traver Gallery in Seattle. w

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Born April 6, 1860, in Aÿ-enChampagne, Marne, France. Died May 1, 1945, in Paris, France. Legacy The name behind today’s famed French glassmaker, René Lalique rose to eminence in the late 19th century designing jewelry for top-name jewelry brands, in part defining the art nouveau style of the time. Lalique then expanded his artistic portfolio, homing in on his talents as a decorative glassmaker, employing

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techniques of press molding and lost-wax casting to form highly threedimensional works now synonymous with the art deco style. His most iconic works range the decorative gamut, from the emblematic Bacchantes and Tourbillons vases to car mascot Spirit of the Wind to the original design of the l’Effleur perfume bottle. Buy/See Most original René Lalique glasswork is obtained from art auctions or through antique dealers.

His inspirations are clearly woven through crystal items in today’s Lalique shops (lalique.com). Prestigious Lalique collections are on display all around the world, from the Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon to the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris, but true Lalique devotees should visit the Musée Lalique, with a comprehensive collection of 650 pieces and located in the village where René Lalique set up his glasswork atelier in 1921.

Original vases by René Lalique (including Bacchantes) at Musée Lalique/courtesy of Musée Lalique. Opposite: The Ware Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants/courtesy of Harvard Museum of Natural History.

RENÉ LALIQUE


LEOPOLD AND RUDOLF BLASCHKA Born May 27, 1822 (Leopold); June 17, 1857 (Rudolf) in Dresden, Germany. Died July 3, 1895 (Leopold); May 1, 1939 (Rudolf) in Dresden, Germany. Legacy Though completed in the name of art, the Blaschkas’ contributions to science and natural history are immeasurable. The father-and-son glass artisans solved a binding conundrum in the scientific community: the ability to preserve botanical and marine specimens for future study. While typical preservation methods had failed science, the hyper-talented artists were able to create exact replicas of nature from glass, using a combination of lampworking and glassblowing and assembling models that perfectly imitated life. Buy/See In December 2016, the Harvard Museum of Natural History debuted the upgraded exhibition Glass Flowers: The Ware Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants, a collection of over 4,000 lifesized glass models of more than 830 botanical species, commissioned in 1886 by professor George Lincoln Goodale, the first director of Harvard’s botanical museum (hmnh.harvard.edu). The Blaschkas’ glass invertebrates are on display at select toptier universities, namely Cornell University, where Dr. Drew Harvell of the department of ecology and evolutionary biology has painstakingly worked to fully restore this historic link to our oceanic biological heritage. w

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Dale Chihuly

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DALE CHIHULY Born September 20, 1941, in Tacoma, Washington, USA. Legacy Arguably the most famous American glass sculptor of our time, Chihuly broke glass-blowing boundaries by eliminating limits of scale and size in his work. Indeed, his colorful, larger-than-life creations are just about everywhere these days, from his famed, ribbon-like 27 x 12 x 12–foot V&A Rotunda Chandelier at the entrance of London’s Victoria and Albert Museum to the expansive Chihuly Garden and Glass architectural exhibition at Seattle Center. Chihuly’s preferred technique involves the use of centrifugal force, gravity, and flames to shape hot glass at a rapid-fire pace. Buy/See The most up-to-date and exhaustive list of Chihuly’s traveling and permanent exhibitions are clearly marked on his website, chihuly.com. Those interested in purchasing his work can contact the Chihuly Studio via the same website or visit the some dozen galleries displaying his work for sale, including Marlborough Gallery in New York City.

Top, Russell Johnson; bottom, Wahine by Robert Mickelsen/courtesy of Mickelsen Studios. Opposite, Terry Rishel.

ROBERT MICKELSEN Born December 12, 1951, in Ft. Belvoir, Virginia, USA. Legacy An innovator and nonconformist in lampworking (glasswork in which a flame is used to melt glass, which is then shaped), Mickelsen pushes the envelope of glass art ingenuity with his signature gossamer creations. Iconic works include Wahine, a life-sized female figure; his Weapons of Peace collection including the original Japanese 7.7mm “Type99” Light Machine Gun; and Network Parasol, what Mickelsen calls his “best work,” all completed in lampworked borosilicate glass. Buy/See Public collections are found at some 10 museums, including the Corning Museum of Glass and the Renwick Gallery at the Smithsonian American Art Museum in Washington, D.C. Browse through past works virtually on mickelsenstudios.com and shop for art directly on sister site mickelsenglass.com (where Weapons of Peace items begin at $18,000 and smaller ship-in-a-bottle works start at $900). w

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JACK STORMS Born September 25, 1970, in Exeter, New Hampshire, USA.

Buy/See Jack Storms’ art is available for sale through his gallery in Valencia, California; Storms Fine Art Gallery; and select fine art galleries throughout the world (prices range from $6,000 to more than $150,000). His website, jackstorms.com, showcases his previous and current work and provides information on special custom sculptures (starting at $30,000).

Through the Tiffany Looking Glass Glass art enthusiasts should consider visiting The Corning Museum of Glass (CMoG, cmog.org), which is dedicated entirely to the history and artistry of glass. The museum permanently houses almost 50,000 objects spanning 3,500 years of glass and glassmaking from ancient Egypt to 20th-century America. And from May 20, 2017, to January 7, 2018, CMoG will present a leading-edge exhibition on a lesserknown element of American artist and designer Louis C. Tiffany’s 168 Spring 2017

craftsmanship: glass mosaics. Already renowned for his design role in family business Tiffany & Co., his stained-glass Tiffany lamps and windows, as well as his trademark Favrile glassmaking process and production (where iridescence is absorbed into the glass itself ), Tiffany’s Glass Mosaics explores the artist’s foray into this alternative canvas with nearly 50 glass-layered works dating from the 1890s to the 1920s.

Top, Blue Spectrum by Jack Storms/courtesy of Storms Fine Art; bottom, Tiffany Studios/courtesy of Corning Museum of Glass.

Legacy Storms is credited with the invention of a cold-working lathe for cold-glass sculpting. His precise use of the mathematical golden ratio is evident through his delicately layered cold-glass creations, which play off the properties of reflection and refraction, and lend to stunning rainbow effects. Iconic works include: the 8,000-piece, 500-pound optic crystal Fireman’s Bell for the Firehouse Arts Center in the City of Pleasanton, California; and the 3,000 Hits Baseball Bat, a 3,000-piece optic crystal sculpture awarded to Derek Jeter of the New York Yankees to honor his milestone 3,000th hit.


The Turri showroom in Milan.

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Flexform at Salone del Mobile.

Â

� �  ’ � � by BRETT FORREST

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Bottom left, Saverio Lombardi Vallauri

t’s not easy furnishing two and a half million square feet. Yet every spring, this is what a few thousand companies do, convening on the outskirts of Milan for the Salone del Mobile, the world’s largest furniture fair. With its numerous life-sized dioramas spread across eight warehouse-sized expo halls, the show sketches the direction of the “Made in Italy� industry. The Salone del Mobile has been held since 1961. Lately, however, the course of Italian furniture has been curious to plot, running as it does in two opposing directions at once. At one end are the muted fabrics and shapes of contemporary design, with esteemed brands like Minotti, Poliform, Flexform, B&B Italia, and Molteni leading the way. At the other, a time-warped collection of gilded, Baroque sofas and settees on which you might expect to find a reclining French sovereign. This clash of styles—with all items conceived and produced in the same factory town outside of Milan—underscores the importance of emerging markets, where new wealth aspires to the appearance of old royalty.


Clockwise from opposite bottom: Inside Milan’s Salone del Mobile, the world’s largest furniture fair. Flexform’s space at the 2016 Salone del Mobile; an Asnaghi bedroom space with tan paneling and headboard in white leather; another Asnaghi showroom space, often sold as an entire set; an Asnaghi gold leaf and velvet armchair.

At the Salone del Mobile, throngs of architects and interior designers flood the expansive exhibition for Flexform, which year after year commands the fair’s largest and grandest booth. Here is the apex of contemporary Italian style, with subdued fabrics overlaying a quiet grace. Everything appears in an earth tone, from seductive ottomans covered in latticed suede to cashmere-covered sectionals. The 56-year-old brand has even gone so far as to use Travertino Romano marble for its exhibit flooring. A company representative at the fair points out that all of ancient Rome was built in Travertino Romano, noting the lineage that draws customers to the Made in Italy brand. However, some of Italy’s newest clients have taken this connection to ancient times in a more literal spirit. Not far from Flexform’s display, Asnaghi, a 100-yearold company, shows a bedroom in contemporary style, complete with tan paneling and a headboard in white leather. However, on the other side of the bedroom wall is a living room that could belong to Louis XIV himself:

a cavalcade of fleur-de-lis, overwrought dressing tables, and wall paneling last glimpsed on a palace tour. Another Asnaghi room is so stuffed with red velvet and gold leaf that you might mistake it for a Hollywood period-piece set. Yet this is meant for someone’s residence—and there is even a high-backed throne priced at $21,000 to go along with it. “We have gotten a lot of inquiries about the throne,” says family member Francesca Asnaghi. “It is an element of distinction. Our clients want ‘unique,’ and it’s one of our most popular items.” How do Italian firms, based in a region known for driving contemporary tastes, produce items outwardly opposed to an industry-wide ethos? More to the point: Who is the clientele? The answers to these questions are explained in the simplest terms: money. As the economy has boomed in China, as wealth has consolidated among a single class in Moscow, and as Persian Gulf potentates have erected palace upon palace, long-isolated local tastes yearn for a classical sense of status. In furnishings, this means Louis XIV and w

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Louis XV. What’s important to the client is that this furniture is made in Italy. And so a parallel industry has arisen on tastes that a typical Westerner might find quaint, if not amusing. A walk through the Salone del Mobile reveals this increasingly schizophrenic nature. But it would be foolish to pass judgment. Alongside contemporary looks destined for glass-walled penthouses and sleek seaside villas, vignettes imagined for a Roman emperor fill carefully planned-out rooms to give buyers a complete vision for an entire home—not just a single sofa or chaise. (Though difficult to estimate, an approximate cost for a 1,000-square-foot living room might come to $100,000.) Italy’s newest clients rarely buy per piece, instead purchasing by the room—or in some cases, by the palace.

rianza lies at the foot of the Alps, 20 miles north of Milan. It is a short drive to Lake Como, where George Clooney owns a villa, but there is little about Brianza that would clue you in to its star turn in the world. Brianza is the center of the Italian furniture industry. For decades, the biggest names in the business have quietly plied their trade, their design shops, and factories housed in the many low buildings that compose the leafy landscape. In the Italian tradition, nearly all of these companies are family owned. The old way of doing business favors strong personal service. Italy’s newest clients, accustomed to special treatment in their home environments, value the handholding on their trips to Brianza. “All our major clients make a factory visit,” says Luca Dell’Occa, owner of DL Décor, a leading brand located on Via Libertà, an unassuming street in Brianza. Sitting at a table in the second-floor showroom, along with Daniela Pestrin, DL Décor’s sales director, Dell’Occa explains that a member of the royal family from the United Arab Emirates recently toured the facility, and a royal dignitary of Saudi Arabia is also a client. Dell’Occa built him a case for his many-hundred watches. Today, 80 percent of DL Décor’s business is from the Middle East. And while 100 percent of its manufacturing and production is in Italy, DL Décor has zero clients based in Italy. Dell’Occa and his staff recently finished outfitting five palaces in Bahrain, each with more than 40 rooms, constructing more than 520 pieces for each property. The furniture and fabrics for the palace cost 1.35 million euros. With drapes and rugs, the cost more than doubled. DL Décor is also currently outfitting palaces for the Sultan of Brunei, and is now represented in London and Milan with its Étoile Collection, a more contemporary line of furniture. Russians have also made strong clients. “Russian and Middle Eastern clients, they really don’t want to look like each other,” Pestrin says. “It’s a thing for them. They talk about it a lot in the conceptual phase. But in the end….”

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Opposite, Luca T.

Opposite: DL Decor. This page: DL Decor (top and bottom right) and Turri (bottom left).

She compares a photo of a sitting room in a Russian villa alongside a picture of a room in a Middle Eastern palace. Each one is blasting with gold leaf and light-reflecting fabrics, in a reproduction of 18th-century living. “The main thing is to please the client,” she says. “That’s not so easy sometimes.” Not every Brianzan furniture producer has the honor of making a palace. But there are enough Russian clients circulating to make learning the language a competitive advantage. That is what Andrea Cerliani, the export manager at Asnaghi, has done. At Asnaghi headquarters, Cerliani says do svidaniya to clients from

the Caucasus, while welcoming a separate group from Taiwan, the smell of sawdust in the air. Business from these new markets runs on a loop. An architect who focuses on clients from mainland China, Megan Chen tours the Asnaghi facility. She runs a finger over the inlays of an extended dining table layered in gold leaf, its feet heavily worked and flourished. “Our clients want something expensive,” she says. “Something that in their minds is traditional European living.” Farther on in the showroom, an Asnaghi sales rep explains that former Libyan dictator Muammar Gaddafi was a longtime client, as was Iraqi dictator Saddam Hussein. w Spring 2017 175


What constitutes European living can get confusing. “In Europe, even old people like contemporary furniture,” says Stefano Zecca, brand manager for Angelo Cappellini, a Brianza company in business since 1886. Angelo Cappellini’s clientele tends more toward Asia. The company will soon open a showroom in Chengdu, its fifth in China. But like other firms in Brianza, Angelo Cappellini has begun to realize that it concentrates solely on emerging markets at its own peril. What the Western market may lack in old-world intrigue, it makes up for in stability. Angelo Cappellini has begun to diversify, with a new line, Opera, that appeals to more contemporary tastes. “Western clients have started to come back,” Zecca says. “Clients from Germany, Singapore, and Hong Kong.” This industry tendency makes for strange bedfellows. Many pieces produced by Turri, which has been in business since 1925, carry a large, gold-plated badge displaying the company’s logo. This underscores a design aesthetic that may play well in Moscow, but might find less success in New York. “Three words continue to express our company’s philosophy: original, authentic, unique.” says the brand’s Chairman Andrea Turri, who points out that while already well-established in Asia, Russia, and India, the brand is directing it’s attention West. “We are also making a statement in the United States through committed dealers and their cosmopolitan clientele.” And that may be the newest trend of all. 176 Spring 2017

Top, Studio Eleven

Top row: Angelo Cappellini. Bottom right: Turri flagship store in Milan.


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TECH

WITH NEW PRODUCTS FROM THE 2017 CES PROVE TECH NEEDN’T BE TACKY. by BRENT BUTTERWORTH

T

ech products have earned a reputation as unlovely objects designed by and for engineers who care only for function. But nearly two decades ago, Apple’s iMac G3 proved tech could be as stylish as shoes or furniture. Granted, many tech products still look better suited for use in a science lab than a living room, but January’s 2017 CES trade show in Las Vegas showcased several new products that even the most aesthetically demanding consumer might crave. Here are a few of our favorite new designs in tech, all introduced at the 2017 CES. Some won’t be available until summer, but they may be well worth the wait.

SEVENHUGS SMART R EMOTE Consider the SevenHugs remote an elemental, empty canvas on which your tech devices display their functions. No need to go through the cumbersome process of telling the remote which device to control—simply point the remote at the device and the appropriate set of controls appears automatically on the SevenHugs’ surface. $229; sevenhugs.com. w

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L G S I G N AT U R E O L E D77 W 7 P 77- I N C H T V ( s h o w n p r e v i o u s ) For the last decade, TV makers have promised that organic light-emitting diode (OLED) technology would someday make TVs as slim and easy to hang as posters. At just 0.2 inches thick, LG’s OLED77W7P comes close. Dolby Vision technology allows the screen to produce ultra-high-contrast images, while a separate Dolby Atmos soundbar speaker system delivers truly immersive sound. Price not yet available; lg.com.

A AV I K A C O U S T I C S C - 3 0 0 S T E R E O PREAMP Derision of tech product design began with stereo equipment, which often takes the form of generic black boxes with incomprehensible controls. Aavik Acoustics’ C-300 does more than ungainly audio components of yore, yet provides a visual and tactile elegance few luxury sports cars can match. Connect it to a computer, a record player, a cable box, a CD player, or even a smartphone. $36,000; aavik-acoustics.com.

M O H U A I R W AV E T V A N T E N N A / STREAMER No tech product is more ungainly than the TV antenna, especially when it is augmented with bits of aluminum foil. The Mohu AirWave is not only the world’s most beautiful TV antenna, it can be installed anywhere a home network connection is available. It then distributes TV programs to practically any component connected to the network, including streaming devices, smartphones, computers, and tablets. $150; gomohu.com.

POL AROI D HOOP SECU R IT Y CAM ER A The Hoop might be the first tastefully designed crime prevention device. It picks up high-definition images over a 140-degree field of view and sends them to Web-connected devices. Because it connects through Wi-Fi, can be powered by battery, and is weatherproof, it can be mounted almost anywhere in or around a home. A smartphone app informs the user if anything within a chosen area of the image frame changes. $199; polaroid.com. 186 Spring 2017

Top right, Søren Gammelmark

L E N O V O S M A R T A S S I S TA N T Amazon’s Echo smart speaker has sold millions of units despite a lack of praise for its looks and sound. Lenovo’s Smart Assistant builds the same Alexa voice recognition functions into a more attractive silver chassis with fabric speaker grilles in four shades and colors. A special version with sound engineered by Harman Kardon is available in matte black. $129 standard, $179 Harman Kardon version; lenovo.com.


JAMO DS6 WIR ELESS SPEAKER AND CLOCK R ADIO The DS6 combines a retro Dutch modern aesthetic with Scandinavian simplicity and a digitally tuned audio system. Although it connects to smartphones, tablets, and computers through Bluetooth wireless, the DS6 does not go silent when these devices depart, because it also has built-in FM radio as well as a digital clock. Available in black, white, or avocado. $299; jamo.com.

S O N Y M D R - X B 9 5 0 N1 HEADPHONES Sony’s latest noise-canceling headphones manage the difficult task of looking simultaneously technical and sleek. The appeal of the MDR-XB950N1 runs more than skin deep. In addition to noise canceling, it offers Bluetooth wireless and bassboosting circuitry that can be adjusted through an app. So not only is the MDR-XB950N1 goodlooking, it can also party hard. $249; sony.com.

L G I N S TAV I E W R E F R I G E R AT O R Nothing about LG’s InstaView refrigerators initially strikes the eye, but two knocks on the door’s sleek glass panel and it illuminates, revealing the contents inside without opening the door. An internal camera can be accessed remotely through a smartphone app, so InstaView owners can take inventory while at the grocery store. Amazon’s Alexa voice command system is also built in. Price not yet available; lg.com.

LUKE ROBERTS SMART LAMP Besides being one of the sleekest pendant lamps ever designed, the Luke Roberts Smart Lamp may well be the smartest. A smartphone app controls an array of 300 internal LEDs to direct the Smart Lamp’s light wherever and in whatever intensity you desire. Top-mounted LEDs provide ambient lighting in any color that suits your mood or décor. $700; luke-roberts.com.

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THE

LUXURY

LOOK

KICK IT UP A NOTCH

MOTIVATION TO STAY FIT IS HALF THE BATTLE. HAVING THE BEST-LOOKING GEAR TO WORK OUT WITH IS THE OTHER. At-home exercise equipment typically spells eyesore. That elliptical in the corner is cursed more frequently than used. Enter the WaterRower Classic. Its American black walnut frame makes it as sightly as it is functional, moving water

instead of mechanical parts to row quietly and smoothly. And it easily stores upright when not in use. Known to burn about 100 more calories per hour than working on an elliptical, kickboxing can also make an impact at home. Fine

leather from the American brand Edelman surrounds a custom punching bag as beautiful as George Foreman III’s jawline, so you officially have no more excuses.

Photography ANDREW YEE Styling MARCO RODRIGUEZ

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THE

LUXURY

LOOK

Previous: Top, Varley, $65, varley.com. Shorts ($100) and bag ($150), P.E Nation, pe-nation.com. Headband, Lululemon, $18, lululemon.com. Waterproof Bluetooth earphones with 100-foot range, Altec Lansing, $150, alteclansing.com. Hand wraps with EverGel and Isoplate foam padding, Everlast, $30, everlast.com. Snakeskin gloves, Elisabeth Weinstock, $1,350, elisabethweinstock.com. This page: Tank, Yco Active, $60, ycoactive .com. Sports bra, Free People, $48, freepeople.com. Leggings, Varley, $120, varley.com. Shoes, Native, $90, nativeshoes .com. Wireless headphones, Sony, $150, sony.com. Headband, Lululemon, $18, lululemon.com. Activity- and sleep-tracking ring, Motiv, $199, mymotiv.com. Rower, WaterRower, $1,495, waterrower.com. Opposite: Top, PilyQ, $68, pilyq.com. Leggings, P.E Nation, $130, pe-nation.com. Shoes, Athletic Propulsion Labs, $160, athleticpropulsionlabs.com. Stand ($110) and gloves ($200), Everlast, everlast.com. Punching bag, Edelman, price upon request, edelmanleather.com.

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THE

Hair/Makeup PAUL BLANCH

LUXURY

LOOK

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Ride with It

AN EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION OF HAND-CRAFTED CARBON FIBER SURFBOARDS FUNCTION AS WELL AS WORKS OF ART AS THEY DO ON THE SEA. by SAMANTHA BROOKS

S

urfboard shaper Donald Brink (brinksurf.com) respects the art of the surfboard. When asked how long it takes to create one of his hand-crafted boards, he answers, “it either takes two hours or 35 years. It’s taken a lifetime to acquire the skills and vision, so it just depends on the way you look at it.” South African–born, Southern California–based Brink started surfing in Cape Town when he was 15 years old. By the time he was 19, he was working in a surfboard factory, learning every step of the process. “I waited to start actually shaping until I was 24,” explains Brink. “Sculpting and shaping the soft core of the board is the most important part, and I didn’t want to do it half-baked. I spent two hours a day for three years studying and observing the process, which is a dying art form.” w

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John Trice; opposite, Daryn Goodwin.

Left: Donald Brink’s capsule collection of carbon fiber surfboards for Luxury Card are designed to be used, as well as displayed. This page: Brink hand shapes each board by hand.

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With technology allowing for quicker mass production of boards, Brink is among a select few who continue to honor the craftsmanship and freedom of the medium. “There are hydrodynamic principals that you consider when building a board…you want someone to be able to dance on a wave with the most ease, and it’s important that the board works and lasts,” says Brink. “Being in touch with nature and the sea is also something I really consider. For me, surfing isn’t just a sport, it’s a creative expression, and the board should represent that.” Brink has created a capsule collection of 10 custom surfboards exclusively for Luxury Card holders, each priced at $1,295. The single-fin, 7'1" boards have a ’70s design influence that is conducive to tackling a variety of waves. Each has been constructed with a foam core and carbon fiber deck in a symmetrical form. The black-on-black boards also feature a hand-carved embellishment, lending an additional element of artistry that Brink likens to a tattoo. “I liked the juxtaposition of the clean, hard surface marred by this forever-engraved detail.” Whether the board makes an appearance on the coasts of Montauk or Malibu, or rests solely against a wall in a penthouse as a reminder of the sea, Brink made sure that the buyers are acquiring more than just an object. “The boards are beautiful on their own, and you don’t have to be an expert to appreciate their curves and form. However, for me, it’s about more than just the appearance of the board,” says Brink. “It’s about the feeling of the board. Even if you’re not a surfer, it will make you want to explore the sea.” The boards can be seen exclusively at the Luxury Lounge at 645 Madison Avenue in New York. For purchasing inquiries, contact 646.863.2206.

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Top, Michael Arenal; middle Meghan Bob Photography.

From top: Brink shapes and surfs from his SoCal studio every day. The boards can be seen and ordered through the Luxury Lounge in New York. The collection is limited to just 10 boards.


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The Most Amazing Race GO FOR GOLD WITH THESE BUCKET-LIST MARATHONS IN SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXOTIC AND ICONIC LOCALES.

Schneider Electric Marathon de Paris, PARIS, FRANCE Next race: April 9, 2017 Why go: Welcome to the United Nations of marathons in the world’s most gorgeous city. The City of Lights quickly transforms into your marathon muse after a single “on your mark, get set, go!” at the Arc de Triomphe, first heading down the Champs-Élysées toward the Place de la Concorde, past the Louvre, and on to the Place de la Bastille. Soon, you’ll be looping around the 12th arrondissement and returning west by way of the Seine, waving at the Notre-Dame, the Musée d’Orsay, and ultimately gawking at the Eiffel Tower right before kilometer 30. In the final stretch, weave through parklands beyond the 16th arrondissement and return to the Arc de Triomphe to cross the finish line. Do it with 57,000

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of your closest friends (ranging from several hundred professional runners to thousands of first-timers) representing 145 nationalities. Prep/To Know: Flat terrain makes for a relatively easy run. Uneven pavements can test ankle stability and temperamental early spring weather may translate to a wet and slippery trail. Cut-off Time: 5 hours 40 minutes Established: 1976 Participants in 2016: 57,000 Race record (M): 2:05:04 (2014) Kenenisa Bekele (Ethiopia) Race record (F): 2:21:04 (2013) Boru Tadese (Ethiopia) Info: schneiderelectricparismarathon.com Price: €115 ($123) w

Top, Aurelien Vialatte/ASO; inset, Gautier Demouveaux/ASO.

by PAUL RUBIO


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Big Sur International Marathon Next race: April 30, 2017 Why go: Both marathon devotees and neophytes swear by this highly scenic race, which weaves through redwood forests and multiple state parks along the striking, craggy coastline of Big Sur. The route begins just south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and finishes in Carmel. A major section of Highway 1 shuts down to create the course’s core, with the crossing of the iconic Bixby Creek Bridge as the dramatic halfway point. Prep/To Know: The presence of rolling hills deems the course moderately difficult. However, it’s the headwinds and weather that usually present the greatest challenges. Runners should book far in advance as this qualifier for the Boston Marathon is highly coveted and sells out shortly after registration opens (2017 is already sold out). Cut-off Time: 6 hours Established: 1986 Participants in 2016: 4,500 (capped) Race record (M): 2:16:39 (1987) Brad Hawthorne (USA) Race record (F): 2:41:34 (1996) Svetlana Vasilyeva (Russia) Info: bsim.org Price: US citizens $175; international participants $200

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Top, Sharon Garber; bottom, Robb Hallock; opposite bottom, Truls Tiller.

MONTEREY COUNTY, CALIFORNIA


Great Wall Marathon, HUANGYAGUAN, CHINA Next race: May 20, 2017 Why go: Picture this: one of the earth’s most striking man-made marvels, the Great Wall of China, transforming into your own jungle gym. That’s exactly the case during this annual competition, which begins and ends around a lesser-known section of the Great Wall, southeast of Beijing in Tianjin. You’ll run through villages, farmlands, and verdant valleys, but the highlight is surely the many kilometers scaling the stone path of this aweinspiring fortressed monument (and accomplishing 700 meters of steep stairs in each direction … most of which you will crawl rather than run). Prep/To Know: Unlike your typical road race, expect to summit and descend a total of 5,164 stone steps as part of your 26.2-mile sojourn. Even seasoned marathon participants are encouraged to engage in intense hill and stair training prior to competition due to this atypical terrain. Cut-off Time: 8 hours Established: 1999 Participants in 2016: 2,500 (capped) Race record (M): 3:09:18 (2013) three-way tie between Jorge Maravilla (USA), Dimitris Theodorakakos (Greece), and Olympic competitor Jonathan Wyatt (New Zealand) Race record (F): 3:32:12 (2013) Silvia Serafini (Italy) Info: great-wall-marathon.com Price: For Chinese non-nationals, a complete, inclusive tour package must be purchased, which starts at $1,350 for a 6-day package.

Midnight Sun Marathon, TROMSØ, NORWAY Next race: June 17, 2017 Why go: When the clock strikes midnight, you’ll be in the home stretch of the world`s northernmost Association of International Marathons and Distance Races (AIMS)-certified marathon. Run through the white night of summer high above the Arctic Circle, dashing by landmarks across the picture-perfect city of Tromsø, Norway. You’ll begin crossing the Tromsø Bridge, later passing the Arctic Cathedral, and zigzagging your way through the city center (all while trying not to get distracted by the dimly lit, snow-capped mountains in the distance). Prep/To Know: Routed through paved road and predominantly flat surfaces, this marathon has few elevation challenges. And while running through the night is definitely a major selling point, cooler temperatures and a confused internal time clock can test physical endurance. Cut-off Time: 5 hours 30 minutes Established: 1990 Participants in 2016: 1,000 (capped) Race record (M): 2:20:56 (1996) Knut Hegvold (Norway) Race record (F): 2:38:22 (2001) Brynhild Syntsnes (Norway) Info: msm.no Price: 1,100 kr ($125) w

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Sparkasse Marthon der 3 Länder, MULTIPLE COUNTRIES, EUROPE

Next race: October 8, 2017 Why go: Looking to make progress on your country checklist? Why not race through three countries in the course of a single marathon while taking in some spectacular lakeside scenery and weaving through picturesque alpine towns? The course begins at Lindau Island in Bavaria, Germany, a town strewn with stunning medieval architecture (including a 12thcentury fairy-tale-esque watchtower) and continues along surrounding Lake Constance. After nearly 6 miles on the trail, cross the border into Austria, and several towns later, arrive in Switzerland at St. Margrethen, whereupon you’ll reroute back through Austria, finishing in the city of Bregenz. Prep/To Know: Sixty percent of the course follows a flat, paved road along Lake Constance while the rest is a combination of relatively easy cobblestone streets and firm trails through nature. October drizzle and cooler temperatures can be a factor for some. If you need extra motivation to make it to the very end, note that in true German-Austrian fashion, great beer waits at the finish line. Cut-off Time: 6 hours 15 minutes Established: 2007 Participants in 2016: 8,844 Race record (M): 2:11:18 (2011) Marko Kipchumba (Kenya) Race record (F): 2:30:50 (2013) Esther Macharia (Kenya) Info: sparkasse-3-laender-marathon.at Price: €56 ($60)

The Australian Outback Marathon Next race: July 29, 2017 Why go: The Australian outback is a quintessential bucketlist destination, and what better way to explore this remote swathe of untouched earth than racing through its red clay grandeur? Inspiration arrives early in the marathon with the impressive Kata Tjuta domed rock formations (the Olgas) coming into view by mile 2. But it’s near the last stretch, at mile 23, that the greatest reward is reaped: incredible vistas of the sacred, mammoth Uluru (Ayers Rock). Prep/To Know: The soft red clay, which comprises the marathon’s dirt trail through the outback, is a serious calfkiller, so train accordingly. Otherwise, expect a few small dunes but overall flat, relatively easy terrain. Flies can be a nuisance in this part of Australia, but less so during the cooler winter month of July. Cut-off Time: 8 hours Established: 2010 Participants in 2016: 191 Race record (M): 2:53:45 (2012) Sean Dunleavy (Australia) Race record (F): 03:10:07 (2013) Sharon Ryder (Australia) Info: australianoutbackmarathon.com Price: A tour package must be purchased for entry, with prices beginning at 795 AUS ($600).

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Top, Philipp Steurer

ULURU, AUSTRALIA


Big Five Marathon, LIMPOPO, SOUTH AFRICA Next race: June 24, 2017 Why go: Ditch the predictable Jeep safari and expose yourself to elements of nature, sprinting through prime lion and elephant real estate in South Africa’s diverse private game reserve, the Entabeni Safari Conservancy. As the race name suggests, expect to see the big five—lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and buffalo—plus other friends of the animal kingdom like giraffes and zebras along a dirt path through the dramatic savannah landscape. Helicopters and armed rangers monitor lurking apex predators, but the paranoia of being chased by a lion is sure to shave quite a few minutes off your race time. Prep/To Know: Don’t neglect any leg muscles in your premarathon training. Prepare your quads for intense burn on the steep 3 km descent into Yellow Wood Valley (which you later have to ascend), and anticipate powering through calf-intensive sections of deep sand surfaces and later maintain your pace while balancing on pebbled roads. Also of note is that the race takes place in one of South Africa’s malaria-free zones. Cut-off Time: 7 hours Established: 2005 Participants in 2016: 275 (capped at 300) Race record (M): 3:16:01 (2010) Johannes Oosthuizen (South Africa) Race record (F): 3:45:24 (2016) two-way tie between Anne-

Sophie Eriksen Wendell (Denmark) and Sabine Hvam Pedersen (Denmark). Wendell and Pedersen were also the overall marathon winners in 2016, making history as the first female overall victors. Info: big-five-marathon.com Price: A complete, inclusive safari tour package must be purchased, which starts at €1,525 ($1,635) for a 6-day package. w

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The Boston Marathon, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS are granted entry first, and not everybody who qualifies is guaranteed entry. Only the super serious need apply, and registration for the 2017 race is already closed. Cut-off Time: 2 minutes and 9 seconds faster than age-group qualifying time Established: 1897 Participants in 2016: 27,491 Race record (M): 2:03:02 (2011) Geoffrey Mutai (Kenya). This is also the famed long-distance runner’s personal best in his career. Race record (F): 2:18:57 (2014) Rita Jeptoo (Kenya). However, this record was annulled in October 2016, following proceedings regarding a doping violation by Jeptoo. The new record became 2:19:59 (2014) by Buzunesh Deba (Ethiopia). Info: baa.org Price: US citizens $180; international participants $240

Ein Gedi Experience/Dead Sea Half Marathon EIN GEDI, ISRAEL

Next race: January 27, 2018 Why go: Though it’s not a full marathon, this race lures runners thanks to its two most powerful attributes: a wow-factor location and a tenet of camaraderie in one of the world’s most hotly contested areas. Near the border of the West Bank and with participants from all over the world, journey through Israel’s dramatic desert landscape surrounding the cobalt blue Dead Sea and pass some of the lowest recorded points on the earth. Prep/To Know: On this very flat course, the greatest obstacle is risk of heatstroke from high temperatures (in 2010, three runners were hospitalized after suffering heatstroke). After the race, competitors receive complimentary entry to Ein Gedi Spa near the start/finish line so they can soak weary legs in the healing sulfur pools and rejuvenate in the mineral mud of the Dead Sea. Cut-off Time: 2 hours 45 minutes Established: 1981 Participants in 2016: 1,056 Race record (M): 1:09:23 (2014) Gabre Nile (Ethiopia) Race record (F): 1:21:32 (2014) Lonah Chemtai Korlima (Kenya) Info: eingedi-run.co.il Price: 160 ILS ($40)

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Top, Fay Foto/Boston. Opposite: Top, Anastasios71/Shutterstock; bottom, Stratos Giannikos/Shutterstock.

Next race: April 17, 2017 Why go: The world’s oldest annual marathon is the Holy Grail of long-distance running competitions. Rain or shine, war or peace, the Boston Marathon has taken place every Patriots’ Day (the third Monday in April) since 1897 and attracts the best-of-the-best runners looking to set new records, achieve prestige, and win a cash prize (the fastest male and female each take home $150,000). For the more amateur competitor, the Boston Marathon is all about (warranted) bragging rights and testing your endurance. Prep/To Know: Unlike marathons commingling competition and leisure, this official sporting event has extremely rigorous qualifications for entry. Age group and gender determine standards. For example, men ages 35–39 must have a previous recorded time under 3:10:00 to qualify. Fastest qualifiers


Athens Marathon, The Authentic, ATHENS, GREECE Next race: November 12, 2017 Why go: Looking to ancient Greece in creating the first modern Olympic Games circa 1896, the 26.2-mile distance from Marathon to Athens—the mythic path taken by Greek messenger Pheidippides to relay news of the Greek military victory against the Persian invasion at the Battle of Marathon in 490 B.C.—was molded into an official game: the “Marathon” race. Nowadays, it’s possible to return to the birthplace of marathons and follow this folkloric-cum-historic journey. Prep/To Know: The route from Marathon to Athens spans tough mountainous terrain, with the uphill sections of the course being the most challenging, specifically multiple steep ascents between kilometers 20 and 31 (the most difficult being between kilometers 30 and 31). Expect major spaghetti legs during the downhill trek to the finish, but get that final push once the white marble Panathenaic Stadium, site of the first modern Olympic Games, comes into view. The actual finish line, or shall we say the finish “arch,” lies inside the stadium. Cut-off Time: 8 hours Established: 1982 Participants in 2016: 18,000 (capped) Race record (M): 2:10:37 (2014) Felix Kandie (Kenya) . Race record (F): 2:26:20 (2010) Rasa Drazdauskaite (Lithuania) Info: athensauthenticmarathon.gr Price: For non-EU citizens €100 ($107)

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BEAUTY

This page: The Peninsula New York couple’s spa suite. Opposite clockwise from top left: Lavender products from L’Occitante; the Golden Door; the Faena Hotel Miami Beach’s Tierra Santa Healing House; The Now; Faena Hotel Miami Beach’s hammam.

WHETHER YOU’RE A SEASONED PRO OR SHY FIRST-TIMER, OVERCOMING THE UNEXPECTED OBSTACLES IN RECEIVING A QUALITY MASSAGE CAN HAVE BOTH PHYSICALLY AND EMOTIONALLY TRANSFORMATIVE EFFECTS. by NING CHAO

S

tiff shoulders from pulling an all-nighter in front of your laptop? Exhausted from traveling to three time zones last week? Sounds like you need a massage. So why haven’t you booked an appointment yet? We get it; massages can be intimidating. Stripping down to your skivvies in front of a stranger may feel downright awkward while spa menus can seem like they were written in a foreign language (what on earth is Wai

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Vari?). Still, studies have shown that massage therapy can help improve sleep, boost immunity, and alleviate chronic pain or muscle soreness, which is why they’re such a worthwhile self-investment. Regardless of whether you’re a massage novice or regular, scheduling the right treatment for your particular predicament will ensure optimal results. Here’s a guide to getting the most out of your time on the table.

Mark Wieland Photography. Opposite: Top right, Jessica Sample; middle, Nikolas Koenig.

THERE’S THE RUB


The Problem:

You’re shy… If the idea of getting naked in front of a stranger makes you tense, you can breathe a sigh of relief because there are effective rubdowns you can receive while remaining fully clothed. After all, how can you relax if you’re feeling vulnerable and exposed?

The Solutions…

FLEX TIME: Borrowing from both Ayurvedic (Indian) and Chinese medicine, Thai massage is best known for stretching and twisting the body to increase flexibility, explains Karina Stewart, a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) practitioner and founder of the Kamalaya Koh Samui spa in Thailand. Clients get to keep their clothes on for the entire treatment, but don’t be surprised if your therapist stands on your back to apply extra pressure to stubborn knots. “Oil isn’t required for glide and in this case, clothing can assist in getting in touch with the meridian points,” adds Spa Director Enid Fernandez, who offers the treatment at The Peninsula New York. DRESS FOR SUCCESS: Similar to Thai massage, Shiatsu hails from Japan and “has more of a press-and-release technique on pressure points,” says Stewart. Sometimes Shiatsu is done on a futon on the floor instead of a massage table. Loose clothing is recommended so circulation won’t be restricted and relaxation can reach a maximum. w

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The Problem:

You’re overworked… Whether you’re hunched in front of a computer or stuck in an airplane seat for hours, sitting too long can make a mess of your neck, shoulders, hips, and legs. “When you sit at a computer, you don’t realize that you tend to pull tightly on the muscles at the back of the neck,” says Jill Carlen, director of L’Occitane Spa at the RitzCarlton, San Francisco. “This makes the eyes and neck tired, and then the shoulders hunch forward, which strains the trapezius muscles across the back and shoulders, pulling them up and giving you lower back pain.” Even if you’re not working at a computer, just staying seated stiffens calf muscles and slows circulation in the legs. “The calves can become quite tight from sitting, especially if you cross your legs or wear high heels, and all the extra strain ends up on the lower back,” adds Carlen.

The Solutions…

TARGET PRACTICE: L’Occitane offers a Tech Tension Relief treatment that’s popular with nearby Silicon Valley professionals, but if you’re not in the Bay Area, Carlen suggests asking for a combination of acupressure or deep tissue massage that works the neck, shoulders, back, and legs. “Deep tissue work helps to release muscle tightness, while acupressure focuses on the smaller muscles in the neck and down the vertebrae,” she explains. GO WITH THE FLOW: When circulation is stagnant, lactic acid can build up, which leads to stiff and sore muscles. A very light-touch lymphatic drainage massage (there’s no kneading) encourages the circulation and detox of fluids, such as lactic acid, in the body and is especially “beneficial for someone who works in a sedentary office environment because it provides energy, restores immune function, and improves vitality,” says Doreen Young, spa director at Mii amo in Sedona, Arizona.

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Top two, Rick Camargo Photography. Opposite: Top, viki2win/iStock; middle, byryo/iStock.

HANDMADE: Surprisingly, even basic hand treatments can be enough to ease stiff shoulders or sore backs. “Whenever I do a manicure, I’ll use pressure points during the hand massage to help the nerves and muscles feel better,” says Theresa Thrin, who’s been a manicurist at the Golden Door Spa in San Marcos, California, for over 20 years, and is sometimes known as the “Queen of Pain” because of her ability to straighten backs after a simple hand massage. “The area from your thumb going down to your wrist corresponds to your back, while the middle finger to the wrist is the spine. The pinky down to the palm is the shoulder, while the wrist corresponds to the hips. If you have pain there, rubbing can release tightness in that part of the body,” Thrin says.


The Problem:

Emotional issues… Whether you’re stressed or sad, massage can unleash a multitude of feelings, akin to counseling. Just a little TLC can help trigger the healing process after a loss or breakup. “Anything from sadness, grief, irritability, resentment, anger, and also joy and laughter can be stimulated, opened, and released for a healthy flow and rebalancing of emotions,” says Stewart. She adds that even a simple massage at your neighborhood nail salon can be a good place to start. If the right pressure points are pressed, you’ll automatically relax and release emotions.

The Solutions…

POINT BREAK: Based on Korean acupuncture, traditional Asian hand massage uses pressure points in the hand to stimulate meridian energy channels in the body. “When we have too much buildup of blocked emotions, that point becomes tender to the touch,” Stewart explains. “The energy gets blocked in that area. By stimulating the points in the hand, the channel is opened up, allowing pent-up emotions to flow out and get released.” GROUND ZERO: Focusing on pressure points solely on the feet, reflexology rebalances energy and quiets a racing mind, describes Stewart. “When the mind quiets down, breathing slows and emotions go back to a calmer, default setting.” Like a hand massage, reflexology doesn’t require clothing removal so you can stay bundled up if you’re feeling extra sensitive and vulnerable. GUT FEELINGS: Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, Shiatsu, and Thai traditions all believe that stomach massage helps rebalance emotions by working on the diaphragm. “When we’re stressed or grieving, breath can be a helpful regulator,” Stewart explains. “We block our emotions by holding our breath—abdominal massage relaxes the diaphragm and resets the nervous system, which controls the fight-or- flight response, shifting it from a stressful to a relaxing state.” However, because the stomach is such a sensitive area, Stewart recommends attempting this emotional release treatment after more mild hand or foot massages. “If you’ve had years of pent-up emotions, it can be quite painful to be touched in the diaphragm and you can cause trauma,” she cautions.

The Problem:

Exhaustion… In desperate need of sleep? Whether you’ve been burning the midnight oil, are suffering from jet lag, or both, massages can help you get some rest. “As far as your body is concerned, one hour of relaxing massage is equivalent to four hours of sleep,” says Young.

The Solutions…

EYES WIDE SHUT: The most popular type of massage offered in the United States, Swedish massages are named for a Swedish athlete who in the 1830s developed the technique to treat his own injuries. Combining long-flowing strokes with gentle kneading, this full-body therapy encourages relaxation. Using hot stones or aromatherapy oils like rose or lavender essential oil will provide extra sleep aid, adds Marsida Keskin, lead therapist at Tierra Santa Healing House at the Faena Hotel Miami Beach. Falling asleep on the table is a sign of a well-done treatment (and a compliment to your massage therapist). Worried your packed schedule won’t allow for a full-hour appointment? Check out new boutique massage spas like The Now in Los Angeles (with locations in Santa Monica, West Hollywood, and Silver Lake), which offer walk-in, express services that last only 25 minutes in addition to longer appointments. HEAD CASE: In addition to Swedish massage, Keskin recommends a scalp massage to help alleviate headaches caused by sleep deprivation. To rejuvenate tired and puffy eyes, Young suggests a lymphatic drainage massage (or facial). Schedule a treatment the morning after arrival to refresh yourself for the day and ensure a good night’s rest that evening. w Opposite from top: Products from L’Occitane; the L’Occitane spa reception at the Ritz-Carlton San Francisco; the indoor pool at Sedona’s Mii Amo; hiking in Sedona with Mii Amo. This page, left and far left: Massages at The Now. Spring 2017 207


INSIDER INTEL How to speak the spa language to avoid cancellation fees and feel more comfortable during your massage: a Q&A with Janet Denyer, spa corporate director at Montage Hotels, which require that all their full-time massage therapists complete the 175-hour American Spa Therapy Educational Certification Council (ASTECC) training program to ensure the highest level of professionalism and care at their spas.

The Problem:

You’re in pain… Muscle soreness is usually caused by lactic acid buildup in the body. Any massage will help increase circulation to help flush the lactic acid out, but certain types can help speed muscle recovery and increase flexibility as well. Let your massage therapist know if you’re preparing for or recovering from exercise, advises certified massage therapist Karen Watt, The Now’s general manager. “Before an athletic event, the therapist will do a fast massage to wake up muscles and prepare them for performance,” she explains. “After the event, the massage should be more about relaxation and stretching.”

The Solutions…

DEEP DISH: Also known as sports massages, deep tissue rubs are typically Swedish in style but with more pressure, says Watt. You can always ask the therapist to increase or lower pressure depending on your personal preference. “Working with deeper pressure relaxes the muscle to relieve tension, strain, and stress. But pressure shouldn’t be so deep that you’re tensing the body or holding your breath.” ROCK ‘N’ ROLL: Using smooth river rocks that have been soaked in water and heated up in a roaster, hot stone massages apply continuous heat and pressure on points to soften tension and relieve pain. “Heat helps loosen stiffness and brings circulation into the area,” explains Janet Denyer, spa corporate director at Montage Hotels, who recommends this treatment if you’re feeling very tight or sore. The therapist may also use the stone as a tool to help knead out knots.

The Problem:

You want to lose weight… If you’re looking a little bloated, sluggish circulation and water retention are probably to blame. Like a green juice (but much more pleasurable), a massage can help rev up your system to encourage detox and slimming.

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Q: I’m running 15 minutes late for my appointment and it’s too late to cancel or rebook without getting charged. What can I do? A: Call ahead to see if you can still go in for the remainder of your treatment. For example, if you are 15 minutes late for a 60-minute booking, can you still receive a 45-minute service? If the spa knows you’re coming, they’ll be prepared to get you into the treatment quickly, allowing you as much time as possible. Also inquire if the cancellation fee can be adjusted (or waived) if you rebook on the spot. Q: I’m very body-conscious. What is the therapist thinking while working on me? A: Professional massage therapists are trained to focus on the bodywork they’re providing and to refrain from making any judgments regarding a guest’s body. If you’re very modest, you can request to stay partially clothed or wear disposable undergarments that the spa should have on hand. Q: I thought I wanted a deep tissue massage, but the therapist is hurting me. How can I communicate the right amount of pressure I want? A: Don’t worry about offending—your therapist’s purpose is to give you what you need. During the massage, if you want him or her to ease up on pressure, speak up. Likewise, if you don’t like the lighting or music, or the therapist is talking too much, you can say you’re really there to relax and zone out. The therapist will get the message. The best massages happen when the service provider and guest communicate about how the treatment is progressing. Q: My therapist seems distracted and upset, and it’s making it hard for me to relax. What can I do? A: Never feel like you need to endure a treatment you’re not enjoying. Everyone has a bad day from time to time—I recommend that you stop the treatment and politely ask to speak to the manager, who will step in and try to resolve the situation by either assigning you a new therapist to complete the massage or rescheduling you at your earliest convenience. Q: I started crying during my treatment—what can I do when something embarrassing happens during a massage? A: Emotional releases happen from time to time during massages, and therapists are trained that this might happen. They will do their best to comfort you without intruding. If it is too much for you, you can stop the service and the therapist will understand.

The Solution…

WASTE MANAGEMENT: Painless but deeply relaxing, lymphatic drainage is the best for detox, says Stewart. “The lymphatic system collects waste and pumps it into other organs to flush it out of the body,” she explains. The purpose of a lymphatic drainage massage is to circulate the lymph and keep it flowing. “But lymph doesn’t respond to pressure, so this massage has a very gentle pulsing and pumping feeling, moving from the extremities to the heart. It helps clear out phlegm, makes you pee, and relieves swelling.”


The Problem: You’ve tried everything… Looking for something a little

more off the beaten track? If a traditional Swedish massage leaves you yawning (out of boredom instead of relaxation), these more exotic treatments might hit the spot.

The Solutions…

MIND GAMES: An osteopathic scalp massage that focuses on shifting skull bones to optimize cerebral-spinal fluid flow, cranial-sacral massages treat everything from insomnia to strokes. Unlike a chiropractor’s obvious alignments, cranial-sacral work is very subtle. “Sometimes you don’t even feel the movements of what’s being done, you just feel like you’re sinking into a deep state of relaxation,” explains Stewart. WATER WORKS: Performed in a pool instead of on a massage table, Watsu (a form of “water Shiatsu” invented in Northern California) treatments take advantage of the body’s weightlessness in water to work out stress and tension with a combination of acupressure massage and stretching. “Watsu disconnects you with the outside world, and extraordinary yoga-like stretching can be done in the water because of the lack of gravity,” says The Set Hotels’ Regional Director Robin Mauras-Cartier, who offers the service at the Café Royal Hotel in London. “As you float, eyes closed, with ears immersed, you very easily lose track of space and time from the sensory deprivation—our guests often stay in the pool for 20 or 30 minutes after the session in a complete meditative state,” she says. “The final results of the treatment are much greater energy levels, awareness, control, and a sense of aliveness in the body.” SEA WORLD: Originally developed at the Four Seasons Resort in Maui for pregnant women (the treatment is now offered to everyone because its benefits are universal), the Wai Vari is a Hawaiian massage done in the ocean to help ease lower back and leg pain. “The ocean is warm year-round and the soothing motion of the waves facilitates the movements of the treatment,” says the property’s Senior Spa Director Pat Makorzak. Wai means “water” in Hawaiian, but unlike Watsu, Wai Vari is not based on acupressure points. The treatment takes advantage of the water for weightlessness (guests wear a full body wetsuit for extra buoyancy), but “our treatment incorporates gentle rocking and stretching and joint capsule release in the hips, spine, shoulders, and arms,” explains Makorzak, who recommends Wai Vari for sore muscles.

Bottom, Michael Franke

Opposite: The Montage Palmetto Bluff. This page: London’s Cafe Royal Hotel Akasha-Watsu treatment, private Watsu pool, and hammam treatment room.

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In

PODS We TRUST by ALEXANDRA CHENEY

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alvador Dalí famously held a key in his right hand when he dozed off every afternoon. Falling asleep, the surrealist painter would drop the key onto a purposefully positioned upside-down plate. The clang of the two connecting would jolt the mustachioed artist awake. Dalí would immediately scribble whatever fleeting image had entered his mind. Channeling deep creativity, it was in that “fugitive moment when you had barely lost consciousness,” Dalí wrote in 50 Secrets of Magic Craftsmanship, that “your physical and psychic being [are] revivified.” The father of surrealism was tapping into what’s known as the theta brainwave or hypnagogic state, usually accessible only to those with a lengthy meditation practice. With the emergence of enclosed single-person spaces specifically designed to unplug, where cell phones and iPads are not only prohibited but impossible to access (technology doesn’t mix well with water, cold, or heat),

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Time and space are constantly evaporating from our daily lives as technology permeates ever deeper into society. To fully disconnect, a crop of pod therapies has gained a foothold in Los Angeles, with New York, Singapore, and Hong Kong following suit. FLOAT THERAPY, INFRARED SAUNAS, AND CRYOTHERAPY all provide an enclosed, womb-like space to press pause, disconnect from sensory overload, and reclaim mindfulness.

the focus is set on self-reflection and realization. These purpose-built spaces meant to detoxify the mind and body cue up clients for surrender to theta brainwave possibilities. At float centers such as Pause in Los Angeles, Lift in Brooklyn, and Float On in Hong Kong, participants drift in egg-shaped white pods filled with 1,000 pounds of magnesium sulfate (more commonly known as Epsom salt) diffused into 160 gallons of water heated to your body temperature, roughly 94°F. The blend, thick and slick, creates incredible buoyancy, allowing the body to comfortably soak in 11 inches of water and providing an optimal environment to experience the hypnagogic state. “All of our basic needs are taken care of so this should be the least anxious time in human history,” says Justin Feinstein, a doctor and clinical neuropsychologist director at the Laureate Institute for Brain Research


Top, Image Source/Getty Images; bottom, Frank Rocco.

Float Clinic & Research Center in Tulsa, Oklahoma. He is conducting a study using floatation to help patients disconnect from the outside world and reconnect to signals coming from the inside of their body. “Anxiety is so ubiquitous, people need respite. Floating provides that,” he adds. Float pods block light and sound. Over the course of the hour-long float brainwaves slow, magnesium from the salt is absorbed, and lactic acid buildup is released from muscles. “Our mind has the ability to do so many things, we just won’t let it because we are so connected to so many things all the time,” says Jeffrey Ono, former marketing director at Equinox who now owns and operates Pause, which debuted last summer in Los Angeles. With “floating, there’s no material on the body, no sounds, no colors. It’s regenerative exercise for your mental and physical being.” w

Lift/Next Level Floats

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HEAT FITNESS

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espite and rejuvenation aren’t the only activities taking place in pods. At Heat Fitness in Santa Monica, Fabiana Mora leads individualized 30-minute workout sessions inside Plexiglas pods heated to roughly 100°F. A cross between reformer Pilates and “my favorite Jane Fonda workout moves,” as Mora puts it, the regimen is tailored to each client’s needs. A femaleonly space, toning and shaping are the overarching goals. After the half-hour session, clients have the option to spend 15 minutes in an O3 chamber, essentially a lacquered white cabin that pumps tripleoxygenated air around the body. There’s even chilled cucumber slices for the eyes and mediation music for the ears. An Argentine-born certified personal trainer, Mora created Heat Fitness in 2014, which uses the original IOBELLA method created by Roxana Lissa. A fellow Argentine, Lissa founded IOBELLA USA and brought the machines stateside but shuttered her spa due to her battle with breast cancer. “It’s not this crazy workout,” says Lissa, “you sweat but you’re not so uncomfortable, not dehydrating every minute. Instead your metabolism is activating because of the heat and you leave feeling really refreshed.” From $175 for both the thermal pod and ozone spa; heatfitnessla.com.

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Ono, a 15-year veteran of the fitness and wellness industry, was at first skeptical of spending an hour in a salt-filled dark pod. “I’m not easily impressed.” But after his first float, “I just felt different. Better, younger even.” Out of water, the Somadome at Ojai Valley Inn & Spa, an hour north of Los Angeles, which founder and creator Sarah Attia describes as “a micro space to calm your senses,” has guests sit in a plush lounger and pull a half-dome over them. The dome is covered in microcrystalline tiles that block harmful EMFs emitted from electronics to help return the body to its natural state. Participants choose between sessions like love, recharge, or overcome, each of which are paired with binaural beat meditation and color therapy. Whether it’s a soft blue for relaxation, a lush fuchsia (which Leonardo da Vinci called the color of creativity), or cobalt for mental acuity, each session lasts 20 minutes. “Do you care about yourself enough to give yourself your own hour?” asks Sophie Chiche of Shape House, an Urban Sweat Lodge. Native Americas have long employed sweat lodges as a ceremony to repair mental, physical, and spiritual damage. Chiche as well as Joseph Harounian of SaunaBar, both in Los Angeles, have added a modern twist to a centuries-old tradition. While there are many walk-in saunas, Shape House’s pod is a more pliable multilayered cocoon. SaunaBar co-patented its simultaneously near- and far-infrared saunas; the top portion of the pod holds lightbulbsized near-infrared lights and the bottom is lined with 440 activated crystal jade stones, which act as a bed for the far-infrared lights. In both, the head is exposed. Clients breathe room-temperature air, which prevents overheating, although a mild to intense sweat is common as part of the detox.

“It’s not just about sweating but about taking time in a day to do something SPECIFICALLY AND MINDFULLY for just you,” adds Chiche. “People are not only understanding the importance of that but seeking it out.” Sanctuaries that allow both the mind and the body to reflect and reenergize are resonating globally, according to Attia. Sometimes it doesn’t take an industrialized machine to reclaim the self but instead a breath of fresh air. For those looking for an even quicker boost, three-minute cryotherapy treatments center less on the mind and more on body rejuvenation and recovery. Think of it as a more technologically advanced ice bath, but instead of a tub full of frozen cubes it’s a chamber pumped full of liquid nitrogen that starts at -200°F and drops down to -256°F. Cryo hails from the Greek word krous, meaning “cold” or “frost.” Cryotherapy centers such as Polaris Wellness in Hong Kong, Coast Cryo in Los Angeles, and Physique in Singapore trace the modality back to 1978 in Japan. “People come in with pain and stress and want to look after their health in the best possible way,” says Nawfel Oussedik, owner of Polaris. Cryotherapy participants at Polaris quarter-turn every 15 seconds as the temperature falls, “and they leave more relaxed, happy, and with reduced inflammation.”


Where cell phones and iPads are not only prohibited but impossible to access.

The focus is set on SELF-REFLECTION and REALIZATION. The cryosaunas at Cryotherapy Spa Brooklyn magnetically open and close, and participants’ heads are raised above the upper rim of the cabin, so claustrophobes fear not. cryotherapyspabrooklyn.com SOMADOME Both Pure Yoga NYC (pureyoga.com) and The Core Club (thecoreclub.com) offer Somadome sessions. The latter is members only.

HONG KONG

FLOATING Dee Cheung and her husband opened Hong Kong’s first sensory deprivation center, Float On HK, in August 2015 after Cheung live-blogged floating throughout her pregnancy. floatonhk.com

Pause Float Studio

CITY GUIDE LOS ANGELES

INFRARED SAUNA It’s entirely possible to fall asleep during the 30- to 40-minute detox infrared sessions at SaunaBar, which recommends clients shed their clothes and meditate while in one of its four pods. saunabar.com Ceramic plates form the base of the beds at Shape House, where participants, fully clothed, are enveloped in far-infrared blankets and compostable sheets. The 45-minute sweat-it-out sessions come with carafes of alkaline water and Netflix on tap. shapehouse.com FLOATING Each sensory deprivation tank at Pause Float Studio has its own room, which also includes a shower and all necessary bath products. After the one-hour float, emerge refreshed with the help of organic ginger tea. pausefloatstudio.com

OTHER Embrace your inner fish, as you may feel like one working out inside a Plexiglas bubble at Heat Fitness. The one-on-one, 30-minute targeted workout session, coupled with the 15-minute triple oxygen chamber decompression, is the kind of one-two punch needed to relax in LA. heatfitnessla.com

In the city of 7 million people, Zero Gravity Floatation Spa offers some friendly competition. zerog.hk CRYOTHERAPY The regulation for liquid nitrogen is complicated and stiff (it is unchanged and hard to work with) in Hong Kong, which is one reason why Polaris is the sole cryotherapy center. Owner Nawfel Oussedik purchased his own fleet of trucks to transport the liquid nitrogen in order to make Polaris a reality. polaris-wellness.com

NEW YORK

FLOATING Although Lift/Next Level Floats may be just above a raucous bar in Brooklyn, owners Gina Antioco and David Leventhal hired an acoustical engineering firm to soundproof the space. Float assured knowing the only thing you’ll hear is the sound of your own breathing. liftfloats.com

CRYOTHERAPY It’s possible that you could match the indigo blue of your cryotherapy chamber at Coast Cryo upon exiting. The three-minute session will boost collagen production and decrease muscle recovery time. coastcryo.com

Sam Zeiger has been running Blue Light Floatation out of his Chelsea loft since 1985. With just one pod, Zeiger uses a hydroxyl generator to purify the air in addition to the half-hour multistep water filtration process. bluelightfloatation.com

SOMADOME Escape to the Ojai Valley Inn & Spa, a one-hour drive north of Los Angeles. There, nestled in an alcove filled with reclaimed wood and crystal mobiles, sits the Somadome. A 20-minute session is offered with or without guided meditation. ojairesort.com

CRYOTHERAPY At KryoLife, located in Central Park South in Manhattan, it’s about more than just the three-minute cryosauna session. Post-freeze, a KryoTherapist will encourage clients to hop on the studio’s stationary bike to stimulate blood flow and enhance the treatment. kryolife.com

SINGAPORE

FLOATING A round-bellied Buddha sporting sunglasses and a backward baseball cap will greet you at the Palm Ave Float Club, which has two locations in Singapore. One is slightly outside the city at Kampong Bugis, while the other is on the city’s eastside along Waringin Park. palmavefloatclub.com CRYOTHERAPY Over a half million people have received a treatment at Absolute Zero, a cryotherapy center that offers sessions and also serves as a distributor of Whole Body Cryotherapy Chambers throughout Asia Pacific. absolutezero.com.sg In the city of roughly 5.5 million, Physique is a centralized cryotherapy alternative as it is located in One Raffles Place, a popular shopping mall. physique.sg Spring 2017 213


ARTIST PROFILE

PAINTING’S POLYMATH

GERHARD RICHTER’S comprehensive range of styles and subject matter coupled with innovative techniques expanded the field of painting and catapulted the German painter, now 85, to the summit of the contemporary art market. w by JASON EDWARD KAUFMAN

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Jason Edward Kaufman


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based on mass media images; portraits of family and friends; still lifes of furniture, candles, and skulls; and rural landscapes, cityscapes, and seascapes—most of them black and white and blurred, as if slightly out-offocus. The photo paintings could have become a signature style on which to base a career, but Richter shuttled back and forth into minimalism, conceptualism, and most notably abstraction. His monumental abstractions are among his best-known works. He makes them by repeatedly smearing wet paint across the canvas with a long plastic squeegee, sometimes modifying the composition with a palette knife or brush, yielding expanses of interpenetrating color that shimmer with a strange atmospheric luminosity. Their unplanned effects evoke nature—the texture of rocks or water, the light of forest interiors or the sky—as well as television static, leading some to dub him a “digital impressionist.” Working in many styles at once, Richter implicitly

MICHAEL URBAN/AFP/Getty Images; oppostie, Jasaon Edward Kaufman.

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erhard Richter is a master of not one but many modes of painting. In a career spanning more than half a century, he has excelled in so many styles and dealt with so many subjects that he might be taken for an artist with multiple personalities. His work ranges from paintings of photographs drawn from newspapers, magazines, and his own snapshots to minimalist greymonochrome canvases and geometric color-chart grids, expressionistic abstractions, and conceptual objects including framed mirrors and panes of glass whose reflections play with ideas about perception, representation, and painting itself. At a time when claims were being made that painting was dead, after photography and all the subsequent -isms of the 20th century, Richter’s mix of figurative and abstract art breathed new life into the tradition. He recognized that photography had usurped the power and fascination of painted images, and he responded by importing the medium into painting. His early works are


Previous: Abstraktes Bild, Number: P1, 2014, 92 x 126 cm, chromogenic print mounted on aluminium, edition of 500. Left to right: Richter posing next to his artwork Acht Grau (Eight Grey), during an exhibition in the German Guggenheim Museum in Berlin; Installation view of Gerhard Richter: Abstraktes Bild at Phillips’ Park Avenue Galleries, NY, 2017.

questions the hierarchy of artistic representation. A photographic image, he proposes, is no more valid a depiction of reality than a color-field abstraction, nor is one more mysterious than the other. Critics see his diverse body of work as an extended critique of the mass media that floods the modern world, and an exploration of the nature and limits of painting itself. But, whether or not one brings a theoretical lens to viewing his works, many are undeniably attractive pictures. They appeal to our fascination with photographs, our affection for the picturesque, and our tendency to revel and search for associations in abstract imagery. In the last two decades, as major museums have mounted Richter exhibitions, the value of his works has skyrocketed. The series of large abstract paintings, each aptly and simply titled Abstract Painting with accompanying catalogue raisonné number, have become status symbols among elite collectors, and regularly sell for more than $20 million apiece. The record is $46.3

million for a 1986 abstraction that sold in 2015, the most ever paid at auction for a canvas by a living artist, and a remarkable rise from the $607,500 that the work had traded for in 1999. Photo-based works of the 1960s appear less often but command comparably vast sums. A view of Milan’s Cathedral Square from 1968—at more than 9 x 9 feet, the largest of his photo-paintings—sold for $37.1 million in 2013, and other works from the series, including a painting of Lake Lucerne and another of a speeding German jet plane, recently sold for $24 million and $25.6 million, respectively. (On March 8, 2017, the largest of his three iceberg paintings, Eisberg, 1982, will be auctioned at Sotheby’s London with an estimate of £8–12 million.) In terms of market dominance, no living artist approaches Richter. Artnet reported that from January 2011 to May 2016, auction houses sold 1,418 of his works for a total of $1.2 billion, more than double the corresponding figures for his nearest rival, Jeff Koons. w

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The same study found that during that period 35 of the 100 highest-priced works by living artists were Richter’s, including 5 of the top 10 and 10 of the top 20 lots. Even tiny abstractions sell for not-so-tiny prices: Two 6 x 4– inch oil abstractions on card, made in 2009, sold at Sotheby’s London in 2014 for more than $85,000 each. The opportunity for speculation poses a challenge for Richter’s commercial representative Marian Goodman. Works that sell at her Manhattan gallery for around $5 million can immediately bring up to $20 million at auction, and she takes care to avoid selling to speculators. Nevertheless, some collectors have reaped sizable profits in the upsurge. The guitarist Eric Clapton paid $3.4 million at auction for three 1994 abstract paintings in 2001, and in the past five years sold all of them for a total of $77.3 million. Richter himself finds the art market “as incomprehensible as Chinese physics” and says the amounts paid for his works are “shocking.” He is neither a careerist nor a publicity hound, preferring to focus on artmaking in his studio in the Hahnwald district of Cologne, and spending time with his wife, the artist Sabine Moritz, and their three children. Family members are the subjects of two of his most recognizable photo paintings: a 1994 profile of Moritz reading that alludes to a Vermeer in the Dresden State gallery, and a 1988 portrait of Betty, a daughter with his first wife, Ema Eufinger, that shows her turned from the camera toward one of her father’s grey paintings. Richter also made a series depicting his second wife, the sculptor Isa Genzken. Richter was born in Dresden in 1932, a year before the Nazis took power. Before the war, his family moved to the countryside where his father, a schoolteacher and pianist, was obliged to join the Nazi Party and Gerhard was conscripted into the junior branch of the Hitler Youth. His father served in the army and was captured by the Allies and survived the war, but two of his uncles died and an aunt with mental problems starved to death in a Nazi eugenic clinic. He remembers the retreating soldiers, strafing by Russian planes, and deprivation in their village, where residents learned of the bombing of Dresden. After the war Richter studied at the Dresden Art Academy and completed socialist realist murals for the Communist regime in East Germany. In 1959, on one of

his frequent visits to the West, he encountered works by Lucio Fontana, Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko, Willem De Kooning, Robert Rauschenberg, and other avantgarde painters at the Documenta exhibition in Kassel. Two years later, just months before the erection of the Berlin Wall, he and his wife fled the abysmal conditions in East Germany and settled in Düsseldorf. He never saw his family in the East again. He enrolled at the Kunstakademie Düsseldorf where his notion of painting underwent a dramatic transformation. Influenced by the Pop-Conceptual Fluxus movement, he and fellow students Sigmar Polke and Konrad Lueg began making Pop-inspired paintings, becoming a German counterpart to Rauschenberg, Andy Warhol, and Roy Lichtenstein. His reputation grew as he began exhibiting widely in Germany, and in 1972 represented West Germany at the Venice Biennale. He taught at the Kunstakademie for 15 years, and in 1983 relocated to Cologne. Two years later he had his first show with Marian Goodman Gallery in New York. In 1995, The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York bought 18 October 1977, his suite of 15 paintings based on news images of the German extremist group known as the Baader-Meinhof. Since then he has participated in hundreds of exhibitions worldwide, including major retrospectives at MoMA, the Museum Ludwig in Cologne, SFMOMA, the Hirshhorn Museum in Washington, D.C., the Art Institute of Chicago, Tate Modern, the Neue Nationalgalerie in Berlin, and the Centre Pompidou in Paris, among others. Despite suffering a stroke in 1998, from which he swiftly recovered, Richter’s creative life has not slowed. At 85, he continues to experiment by applying oil paint to photographs, and pouring enamel paint onto the back of glass to create evocative painterly abstractions. He also makes prints, consisting of long, horizontal, computergenerated stripes. In addition, he has installed a handful of permanent public artworks, including an enameled glass wall piece based on the colors of the German flag for the rebuilt Reichstag in Berlin, and a stained-glass window in Cologne Cathedral. In 2017 he will have major shows in Prague, Bonn, Essen, Ghent, and Brisbane, and 25 new abstract paintings are currently on view at the Ludwig Museum in Cologne (until May 1). w

Kegel (Cone), Catalogue Raisonné: 580-2, 1985, 260 x 200 cm, oil on canvas.

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Interview with Dieter Schwarz, Director, Kunstmuseum Winterthur in Switzerland. When did you first meet Gerhard, and what drew you to him?

I met him in the late 1980s, a time when I was working with his then wife Isa Genzken on her first retrospective. I was at the studio when he did the Baader-Meinhof paintings.

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It was a very moving moment. We stayed in touch and became more and more friendly. I did a retrospective and published a book of his drawings and watercolors in 1999, and have done a lot of writing on him over the years. I still see him regularly in his studio. He is pleased to discuss the work with someone he has known a long time and trusts and who visits without a purpose.

Image copyright Š The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Image source: Art Resource, NY.

AN INTIMATE VIEW


25.1.2000, 2000, 12 x 12 cm, oil chromogenic print.

Does he visit museums or galleries?

He doesn’t go to galleries much anymore. It’s difficult because he is too famous. But he likes to go to museums. He pays the entrance fee and tries to be a normal person. Often it works.

What is he like as a person?

He is a very withdrawn person. He likes to be with his family or with a few friends intensely talking. He is always discussing art, and he is very skeptical about what is happening in the art world. We also discuss politics and the articles and books he is reading. He likes an intimate atmosphere. He doesn’t like to be a public person.

How does he think about art and the market? How does his mind work?

The market is of course flattering, but at the same time it is so destructive for an artist like him to know that everything is so well accepted and there is no critical view anymore. Anything he would do is just accepted. This is a burden. It doesn’t make it easy to work. Of course, support is important for an artist, but he feels really threatened by the figures his works produce. It is really something heavy to live with. Most people come and praise the works and don’t even look at them, but just see what they’re worth. Our conversations are mostly about which are the successful paintings. In 2016 he did a body of almost 30 new paintings. I was there several times. We looked at them, and discussed which is more successful, less successful. He is very receptive if somebody sees differences and even says a few critical words.

Can you discuss his self-critical attitude toward his work?

For instance, this summer he had done two seascape paintings in Tenerife. Something was wrong with them, and we tried to find out about that discussing the paintings. The next time I visited he had corrected the paintings partly, but it didn’t really look convincing. The third time I came he had overpainted them. Now they have become abstract paintings, maybe more successful ones than the seascapes. Over the years he has destroyed a lot of works that upon consideration were not what he thought they should be. It takes time. The painting may go fast, but then to consider the work, to talk about it, takes weeks and months. They hang in his large studio and if somebody comes he discusses them, and he decides if this is something to keep or not. He might go back and destroy, or completely overpaint it, or slightly correct it. This second or third view is very important to him, because it is seriously thinking about What is painting? What is the quality of a painting? This is something you cannot express in words, but you compare them and see if they stand up or not. You can only see it and share an opinion, or maybe contradict it. So he is very shocked and also a bit frightened by this superficiality that the art world has developed more and more—that things have to be fresh and new and are immediately accepted. There is such an overall acceptance of things produced and he looks at this very critically.

What do you find compelling about him?

On one hand, what is compelling is this immense continuity that somebody is able to build such a work over 55 years. This is rare. Because the work becomes more and more interesting the longer it’s going on. So many things reference the past, and the network the work creates becomes even more dense and interesting. At the same time, I’m impressed by his candid approach to painting. After the last show at Marian Goodman in May 2016 he went back to the studio and started right away doing small paintings, very gestural and free. He had to do this to get away from an extemely successful show and back to the studio reality. He had to get back to working on painting again. I find this so admirable. He is able to do this again and again. At his age, he always says, “That’s the last time, it’s over now. I cannot do it anymore.” He knows he is being skeptical, then he goes at it and does it again. And he is a very happy man when he can paint. It is important to remember that to paint is an act of will. He is not a painter who can do it every day. Often for months he is unable to paint, because he needs the concentration and gets distracted by all the duties that fall on him these days. Then he gets started. Recently there was a period when he didn’t do any paintings for four years. He did digital works, but not with a brush. Then he was very happy to go back to real painting. But he needs the right circumstances, a certain ambience, a certain inner balance and concentration. Then it works. It’s not something that comes naturally every day.

He considers figurative and abstract work the same?

In recent years he has done very little figurative work. The problem is that, on the one hand, he says the older he gets the more difficult it is to find images he thinks should become paintings. On the other hand, abstract works more and more become a melody that goes on, whereas the figurative work is something single, something isolated. It is never part of a series. The image is something specific. The abstract works are more general. So it’s easier to go from one abstract painting to the next than to go to a figurative work, because you have to find the image that strikes you. And he says it is more and more difficult to find such images.

What underlies the various approaches he takes? For example, his work in black and white or color?

Richter is somebody who lives in our time. Black and white was clearly the 1960s and early 1970s, then the world changed to color. Black and white has mostly disappeared from our world, and it would be impossible, I assume, for him to conceive a black-and-white picture these days. He is not nostalgic at all. He knows he is in our time and we cannot turn our backs on our time. w

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Abstraction has been around since the early 20th century. What is distinctive about Richter’s approach to abstraction?

In a way, when he started to do abstraction it was like an image of abstraction, like a second approach. It was not the firsthand abstraction of Kandinsky and that generation. They were proud of discovering something. Richter knows very well that it has been there. It is like when he uses a photograph, it is an image of something that is not directly present anymore, that has a certain history, and some distance to it. For Kandinsky and his contemporaries it was a new experience, something new in painting. Obviously this cannot be anymore. So this kind of abstraction is always done with the knowledge that it has been here before, that like a photographic image it presents something lost. It is an image of an image.

But when someone makes music, they are not making sounds in quotes. Is there any irony to his abstraction?

There is no irony. What fascinates him is that abstraction is always in relation to a chance operation. For this, music and particularly John Cage’s music, has been important to Richter. Abstraction is something that is not preconceived. There is also chance involved in selecting one of millions of possible photographs or images to paint. With abstraction chance is involved, as well. This balance between chance and knowledge and reflection is what attracts him. Irony is not about chance. There is the insight that you are trying to do something, but what you do is always overridden by the fact of what happens on a canvas.

Was he ever inspired by drugs?

Drug taking was certainly not Richter’s thing. He has had a more bourgeois lifestyle. He was not a bohemian at all.

Has the Kunstmuseum Winterthur been able to acquire many Richters?

You have mounted exhibitions of his drawings and watercolors, work that has not been exhibited much in the US. Can you discuss his work in these media?

Even in Germany this part of the work had not been well known before our retrospective. I proposed to do a works -on-paper retrospective, and he said, “Well, do it!” He got to like this idea only with time. Drawing and watercolor were in the beginning less important for him than the paintings. Painting was official and central, as it has always been in the academic world. Drawing he considered a lesser part of his work. In recent years, he went back to it and for Marian Goodman Gallery he did in 2015 a series of 40 new drawings and was interested that they were like small paintings in a different technique, but had the same

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kind of density, the same kind of landscape associations that many of the paintings have. It was complementary to the paintings.

Are his drawings or watercolors ever a warm up or study for paintings?

Never. But on the other hand, it was interesting to him to use watercolors as an image to copy in an oil painting, which is a different thing.

Richter has made many works in black and white, or grey. Can you discuss his use of the grisaille palette and its significance?

The mixture of all paint becomes a grey-brownish color. When he did his first grey paintings in the 1970s it was an attempt to wipe out completely any kind of image and

The Art Institute of Chicago / Art Resource, NY.

We have two figurative paintings from the 1990s that we purchased, and two abstracts that he gave on permanent loan. But we have the most important collection of works on paper by Gerhard, almost 100 drawings. I understood that we could never match other museums in acquiring paintings because they are too expensive. My idea, and Gerhard supported it a lot, was to focus on drawings and thus to create something unique.


19.3.92, 1992, 12.7 x 17.5 cm, acrylic on chromogenic color print.

The steel ball was like the perfect image, the perfect mirror, because it sucks in the complete reality that is around it. It’s something ungraspable, and at the same time it is the complete image that no one can ever recreate, but the steel ball does it for a moment. At the same time it is completely non-transparent. It is just a pure reflection. The panes of glass he did in 1966 were like a demonstration of the fact that you can look through a transparent pane of glass in different directions; it does not hide, but at the same time it does not explain anything. It’s just pure presence, and we are helpless confronted by this pure presence. The mirror or transparent glass shows you what is there, but at the same time leaves you without any explanation. You can see all there is, but at the same time cannot understand anything. Maybe it is a sense of utter helplessness against the phenomena of the world or of pure acceptance. The panes can be moved in different positions, and will always show something through them in an infinite number of possibilities. Again, chance comes in. Which possibility would you choose? A photograph would fix one phenomenon, but with the glass there is no privileged moment. It was like an object to demonstrate an insight, but maybe the insight is more important than the object of demonstration itself.

Hundreds of thousands of artists have worked during Richter’s life. Why has he stood out?

focus completely on the surface and the material aspect of the painting. Thus he has often accompanied his work by doing from time to time monochrome grey paintings or mirrors. He always is dialectical in that he is able to do a great figurative work, and at the same time a grey abstraction as a negation or complementary to the figurative work. The mirrors are the same type of negating because a mirror has no image itself and always takes on another image. I think this is the same dialectical dimension in the work: the grey draws your attention to the material of which painting is made, and also the complete negation of anything, which can be shown or represented.

Richter is known as a painter, but he also has created a number of objects—the mirrors, the panes of glass, the steel ball on the floor. Can you describe these works and how they fit into his practice?

It is the intelligence of the work that is classical painting, and at the same time highly reflective and critical toward his own practice. He is the only one who has succeeded to bring together the essential beauty of classical painting with a critical and intellectual view of what a painting can be. This is outstanding and exceptional. But of course it never explains that the market should react in such a way. This is something an artist cannot expect to happen. Maybe that requires an economic explanation and not an artistic one. In a way, that force is stronger than the artist, and it is a bit frightening.

What place do you imagine he holds in the history of art? How will Richter be remembered?

Maybe he will be remembered as somebody not so easily placed in art history. If you look at abstract expressionism, minimalism, and so on, you can place those artists in a logical formalistic sequence. Richter is in a way outside this sequence of modernist movements because he took up something pre-modernistic, the idea of painting in a classicist tradition that goes back to Ingres and the artists of the 18th century, and tries to use it for our time. This is a unique position, not just part of the big modernist movement to which almost everybody else belongs. w

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From left: Richter photographed in Düsseldorf, 1971; Frau die Treppe herabgehend (Woman Descending the Staircase), 1965, 198 x 128 cm, oil on canvas.

THE RICHTER ARCHIVE

MARKET PERSPECTIVE

What is the Gerhard Richter Archive, how was it established, and what is your role in the enterprise?

How would you situate Richter in the world of contemporary art?

The Gerhard Richter Archive was founded in 2006 as part of the State Art Collections in Dresden. Our duties are to collect all material about Gerhard Richter: books, catalogs, photos, news clippings, invitations, posters, and other ephemera. We have original letters, documents, and a small collection of artworks. We also help students, lecturers, and curators with their research, and conduct our own projects.

How many works has Richter created in total?

Approximately 3,700 paintings, 4,000 overpainted photographs, 170 editions, and about 500 drawings.

What do you think is the most remarkable thing about his work?

I have always admired that he does not hesitate to destroy or overpaint landscape paintings that do not match his quality standards, despite their market value.

Richter’s career flourished after his move to the West. Has the political context influenced his work?

When he fled to West Germany, the presence of media (news magazines, TV, cinema) had the most significant impact on his art. Also, the contact with the international Pop Art movement. But the political context has not so much influenced his work.

Is he highly ambitious, competitive with his peers?

He was in the early 1960s with his artist friends Konrad Lueg and Sigmar Polke.

Is there something characteristically German about his work or his outlook? He is very organized.

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Interview with Katharine Arnold, Director, Specialist Head of Evening Auction in the Post-War & Contemporary Art Department of Christie’s London.

Richter is one of the great masters of 20th-century painting. He has managed to master so many different facets of artmaking. He does photo-real paintings that are incredible feats in technique and studied composition, and also have a conceptual dimension. At the same time he turns to abstraction. When everyone thought that the possibilities for abstraction had been exhausted by the abstract expressionist generation, suddenly Richter builds a new way of making abstract painting. He introduces chance and contingency using the squeegee, his signature technique from 1989 onward. He has a certain color palette, but ultimately the interaction of wet-on-wet paint ends up with a result that is not entirely preplanned. So, he’s a pioneer in abstraction, and also a pioneer in social painting, coming out of Germany in the 1960s and dealing with the legacy of their history. That was something radically new, and at the same time he was experimenting with grey paintings, the use of monochrome, and also making sculptures that enter into discussion with minimalism. Just one facet would have been enough for most artists for a lifetime’s career, and he’s managed to master all of them and do something novel and brilliant. That situates him as this incredible figure in artmaking of the 20th century and the beginning of the 21st century. Recognition of that has led to this whole reembracing of his practice by the marketplace.

Is there a correlation between Richter’s status in the market and what you are describing as his complex and innovative practice?

I think so. He has depth, which is why he is someone who I think will continue to be important in the marketplace and also will have an important legacy historically. He’s someone we will remember in a hundred years’ time. But some of his paintings, even if he would never himself say

© Copyright bpk/Angelika Platen/Art Resource, NY. Opposite: The Art Institute of Chicago/Art Resource, NY.

Interview with Dietmar Elger, Director, Gerhard Richter Archive in Dresden, and author of the biography Gerhard Richter: A Life in Painting.


I think it’s because he is doing something very novel with abstraction, but also that people respond very well to color. Sometimes collectors find specific color palettes or certain interactions of his paint that they fall in love with and they have to have. Rothko also understood that color has this transformative power. That’s had a huge impact, and also the scale of these paintings. In the ones that have made the great prices, the scale—some are almost 8 feet square—combines with that effect of color and its power to really overpower you sometimes. That is quite a special feeling and people want to live with that, to own that. The textures of those abstracts are also extraordinary. Because it is wet-on-wet painting you end up with this incredibly tactile surface. It’s something you almost want to touch. But, ultimately it’s the success of the composition or the way that the colors play with one another that lends it appeal.

The abstract paintings are less rare than the other series, but they have sold for more. Why is that?

that they are painted with the aim of being beautiful, are just beautiful. The feeling that you get when you look at some of these abstract paintings or stand in front of a big lake scene—some of them are really awe-inspiring. These are things that people want to live with. So it’s not only because he’s brilliant and very intelligent as an artist. It’s also because he’s making beautiful paintings that people want to own and live with.

Compare the Richter market with those of his contemporaries.

It’s interesting to compare with the careers of other Germans who were working around the same time, people like Martin Kippenberger, Sigmar Polke, or Georg Baselitz. They have had some definite success, but Polke’s market, for example, didn’t move as quickly as Richter’s did. He has written less, explained less, and perhaps his works are less conventionally accessible. The big Polke retrospective that MoMA toured to the Tate and the Ludwig Museum in Cologne helped us appreciate the importance of his work, and fed through into the marketplace, but it took more explaining. Richter’s work, and the fact that Richter has written and has said so much about his practice, has given us privileged access to his work and its significance.

Richter’s auction record is $46.4 million paid for the 1986 Abstract Painting (599) at Sotheby’s London in 2015. That became the second-most expensive work by a living artist ever sold at auction—after Jeff Koons’ Balloon Dog (Orange). Abstract Painting (809-4) sold for $34.2 million in 2012, and another 1980s abstraction sold for $34 million in 2016. Why do the abstract paintings dominate the market?

They have moved first, but many of the great figurative paintings have not been available. They are still in collections and people have not been selling them. We had a painting in February, a 1969 view of Lake Lucerne that the collector had had since the early 1970s. It is 47 x 59 inches, in immaculate condition, painted in shades of grey, black, a kind of Prussian blue, and white, and this almost monochrome scene sold for $24 million. There are four iterations of that scene, two on a smaller scale and two on this scale, and for the most part they are in collections of people who will never sell them. People just don’t want to let go of them. The owners also understand that these paintings will appreciate in value, so maybe they are not moving as readily. The last candle [painting] sold in 2011 for $16 million, but today we’d be looking more at something like $30 million. They are masterpieces, and I think the figurative paintings are still undervalued. I think those are ones to watch.

Which works are most highly sought-after today?

I would say candle paintings are very much sought after. There are around eight of them and the record is $16.5 million. They are a riff on the vanitas theme, about the brevity of life, but the way that he painted it is kind of amazing. The surface is velvety, very smooth, and he’s brushed into it with a dry brush and extended the cone of light at the top by pulling it out in successive brushstrokes. You aren’t looking at the image and thinking of what it represents. You look at it and it looks actually hot, like there is actually a flame burning. The skill that he takes to represent this ephemeral phenomenon, people find that compelling.

Is there another sector of his market that may be undervalued?

I’m very interested in how the market will move for the rural landscapes. For the Lake Lucerne painting [Vierwaldstätter See, 1969] that we sold in 2015 for $24 million, we had really competitive international bidding and great private collectors looking at that work. That is what we like to see at auction, depth of bidding. That tells us that there is w

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Are political subjects, such as the portrait of his Nazi uncle, the WWII bombers, and cityscapes that suggest aerial maps, less appealing than more conventionally beautiful pictures?

I think in many instances they are just not available. A lot of those early works are in museum collections now, and I think that has a big part to do with it. Some of the subjects are quite challenging, more a connoisseur’s picture. But what’s interesting about those early period pictures is that, as with early Baselitz, they are dealing with German history and its legacy, the feeling for a country lacking direction and addressing that dark past, and having to move forward. So I think they are incredibly interesting.

Are works available at lower price points than the multimillion-dollar works we have been discussing?

Absolutely. There are smaller-scale works, watercolors and drawings, and some of his editioned works and overpainted photographs are very beautiful. Until 1968, he used found images as sources for his photo painting. Then he started photographing landscape scenes for the first time, and putting together his big Atlas book of source photography.

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How has Richter’s market changed over the years?

You could say that Richter’s market was more Europeanfocused back in the 1960s, ’70s, and ’80s. Then after MoMA bought the suite of Baader-Meinhof paintings, it started opening up. Collectors in Germany who had bought the pictures in the 1960s started selling. And of course the market has really changed for him since 2011. That’s when we first saw the big prices being achieved. It’s continued to go from strength to strength.

Are buyers of his work different from those who pay enormous sums for Rothko or Bacon?

They are the same people, the top collectors. Geographically, it’s across the board. We have bidders from all over looking at it. It is a universal thing. All the top collectors are looking for masterpieces by the artist because they recognize that he will have a continued and lasting legacy. Richter is someone who has contributed a huge amount and extended art history. His future market definitely is secure.

From left: Rune Hellestad/Corbis via Getty Images; bpk Bildagentur/Sprengel Museum/Michael Herling | Aline Gwose/Art Resource, NY; The Art Institute of Chicago/Art Resource, NY.

still some ways to go. And think of some of the portraits, or the Baader-Meinhof cycle in MoMA that caused such scandal because they rendered people branded terrorists in Germany at the time almost with sympathy. The subjects that he approaches and how he paints them is so fascinating. I can only imagine that the market for the suite of figurative photo paintings will catch up with time.

The overpainted photographs draw together these two strands. He began doing them in 1989 and completed a lot in the early 2000s. He would take a print of one of his snapshots, usually a standard 10 x 15 cm, and add oil paint left over from the squeegee-painted abstractions over the top of it. There have been some very sweet ones, such as a photo of his infant son Moritz overpainted with a sweep of abstract paint. He had made photo paintings of his partner Sabina and their son in 1995, and some of those paintings he went over with a brush and turned them into abstracts. He has done the same thing to a related photograph, covering it with paint. I think that’s quite interesting and a desirable thing to own. They are much more accessible price points, perhaps 15,000 to 20,000 euros, but still have a very conceptual and very signature element of Richter in them.


RICHTER ON FILM

Interview with Corinna Belz, filmmaker and writer, creator of The Cologne Cathedral Window (2007), Gerhard Richter Painting (2011), and Richter’s Patterns (2016). How did you come to make the film about Richter’s cathedral window?

I studied art history and saw many Gerhard Richter exhibitions, so Mr. Richter was always a huge presence. His project designing the window of Cologne Cathedral was the right moment to get in touch with him. It was obvious that it might be interesting for viewers today and future generations to have a document of this historic collaboration between a modern artist and the chief architect of the cathedral.

From left: Kerze (Candle) series, 1982; Landscape with Group of Trees, Inv. D 4188, 1970, 80 x 100 cm, oil on canvas; Venice (Staircase), 1985, 51.4 x 71.8 cm, oil on canvas.

Cologne Cathedral was first built in the 13th century, and it was very exciting to see how Richter took a contemporary conceptual approach, adapting an idea from one of his color-chart paintings [4096 Colors, 1974]. He successfully translated the concept into a stained-glass window measuring over 26 meters in height. Combining a modern work and such a traditional context was quite courageous for both the cathedral’s chief architect and Mr. Richter, but the undertaking has been wholeheartedly embraced by the general public and art critics.

Why do you think he agreed to work with you? He is said to be camera shy. Was that a challenge?

The Cathedral film was not so much character-driven as focused on the project. Richter liked that it wasn’t focused solely on him. During the two years of filming, from 2005 to 2007, he got to know me and the idea for a featurelength documentary was born over a period of almost two years.

How much time have you spent with him?

In the beginning of filming Gerhard Richter Painting, I filmed the setup of several exhibitions, and stopped by the studio every two months or so. In 2008 we started filming w

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in the studio, when he was working on the Sinbad series. In April 2009, Richter started a series of abstract paintings that he would exhibit later that year at Marian Goodman Gallery in New York. I filmed the creation of 15 paintings regularly over a period of four months. On these occasions we also often filmed the everyday routine in the studio.

Can you describe the atmosphere in the studio?

As a rule, he works alone, though I also filmed him working together with one of his assistants on a very large, white monochrome painting. Since the mid-1990s he has always had two assistants, not more. While he paints, he likes to listen to music—at that time a lot of György Kurtág, which can be heard in the film. Mr. Richter also likes to work over the weekends when nobody is in the studio, except his wife, Sabine Moritz, when she drops by for a visit. She’s a painter herself, so she looks at the work from an artist’s perspective.

What is he like as a subject?

Once he was convinced of the idea, Mr. Richter was very committed, reliable, and also generous with his time and personal contribution. It seemed to me that, though he does tend to be introverted, he was willing and able to overcome his discomfort in regards to the camera. We decided to install a second camera in the studio, which Richter turned on when he worked alone, so that the different phases of the canvases would be documented, because the pictures sometimes changed so quickly, like weather in the mountains. So there is quite a lot of footage that he filmed himself.

You focus on his painting process, so we can actually see how he makes his work. Did Richter suggest that approach? 228 Spring 2017

The focus on the paining process was my idea; we talked about it right in the beginning when I started to work on the long documentary. Nonetheless, it took almost a year until he started this series of abstract paintings. During this time I was in touch with him and the two assistants. Filming in the studio wasn’t easy for him, but he was also interested in the challenge and in the end he got used to our presence. Time matters.

What did you learn about his technique, about the act of creating his paintings?

First of all, I learned that Richter mixes the primary colors on the canvas. This is a very long process that can take days and weeks. The work can unfold over a period of months before a single canvas is deemed finished. Richter prefers to work on several paintings simultaneously. It seemed to me that the various works in progress would communicate with and influence each other. So much happens in the process of decision-making. All the paintings Richter has seen and all the paintings he has painted inform the process. He draws on all his experience with color and the use of the squeegee. Painting is all about seeing and also about the beauty of a movement. There is a lot of elegance in the way he handles his instruments, and the lifelong experience that you can see in each work. That’s extremely precious.

What is the most surprising thing you discovered about Richter during your time with him?

His sense of humor, and that he’s so unpretentious and down-to-earth. When I proposed the long-form film he asked, “Do you really think anyone would be interested?”

From left: bpk Bildagentur/Hamburger Bahnhof - Museum für Gegenwart, Nationalgalerie, Staatliche Museen/Jörg P. Anders./Art Resource, NY; Ullstein Bild/Getty Images; FABRICE COFFRINI/AFP/Getty Images.

From left: Seestück (Seascape), Inv. B 1072, 1970, 200 x 200 cm, oil on canvas; Seestück (Seascape), 1969, featured on the 2013 German stamp; Richter poses in front of one of his Color Charts series during his exhibition at the Fondation Beyeler on May 17, 2014, in Riehen near Basel.


GERHARD RICHTER QUOTES Ideas about Art Art is not a substitute religion: it is a religion (in the true sense of the word: ‘binding back’…to the unknowable, transcending reason, transcendent being). But the church is no longer adequate as a means of affording experience of the transcendental, and of making religion real—and so art has been transformed from a means into the sole provider of religion: which means religion itself. Notes, 1964–65 I don’t believe in the reality of painting, so I use different styles like clothes: it’s a way to disguise myself. Interview with Bruce Ferguson and Jeffrey Spalding, 1978 My method is related to an attempt to do something that might be understood by today’s world, or that could at least provide understanding. In other words, doing something I understand and that everyone understands. This natural desire for communication is also found in other domains, like reading and discourse, etc. I also hate repeating myself; it gives me no pleasure whatsoever. Once I’ve understood something, I need to start off on new ground. Conversation with Henri-François Debailleux, 1993 I don’t really believe that art has power, but it does have value. Those who take an interest in it find solace in art. It gives them huge comfort. [It can be] comforting simply because it’s beautiful. These days, beauty is not in fashion. We don’t need it. We need entertainment, sensations. Beauty is an ideal of mine as much as it ever was. Interview video produced by Louisiana Channel, 2016 w Spring 2017 229


Painting Technique Today no one masters technique any more at all. Painting has become so easy— anyone can do it!—that it’s often very bad. In this context, as soon as someone knows technique, it jumps out at the viewer. That said, for me technique is something obvious: it’s never a problem. I’ve just remained extremely attached to a culture of painting. What’s much more important to me is the attempt, the desire to show what I want, in the best way possible. That’s why technique is useful for me. For me, perfection is as important as the image itself. Conversation with Henri-François Debailleux, 1993 To be filled with an idea—to have one—is the greatest thing that can happen for me. Otherwise you have nothing. You are empty and feel terrible and don’t know what to paint. To come to paint again without an idea is also possible; sometimes pleasure comes with doing. I find it hard to start sometimes. There’s a painter’s block and it is very hard to wait for an idea. For me, the only way is to start without any idea. This can be good, too. Better than doing nothing. Arts Et Culture documentary (itv.com/southbank), 2006 I don’t believe there are subjects that can’t be painted, but there are a lot of things that I personally can’t paint. I Have Nothing to Say and I’m Saying it, conversation between Gerhard Richter and Nicholas Serota, spring 2011

Photo Paintings When I paint from a photograph, conscious thinking is eliminated. I don’t know what I am doing. My work is far closer to the Informel [gestural abstraction] than to any kind of ‘realism.’ The photograph has an abstraction of its own, which is not easy to see through. Notes, 1964–65 I blur things to make everything equally important and equally unimportant. I blur things so that they do not look artistic or craftsmanlike, but technological, smooth and perfect. I blur things to make all the parts a closer fit. Perhaps I also blur out the excess of unimportant information. Notes, 1964–65 I was surprised by photography, which we all use so massively every day. Suddenly, I saw it in a new way, as a picture that offered me a new view, free of all the conventional criteria I had always associated with art. It had no style, no composition, no judgment. It freed me from personal experience. For the first time, there was nothing to it: it was pure picture. That’s why I wanted to have it, to show it—not use it as a means to painting but use painting as a means to photography. Interview with Rolf Schön, 1972 The picture I used [as a model for my 9/11 painting] was very beautiful with flames— red yellows and orange, very beautiful. And this of course was the problem. I painted it at first really so colorful, then I had to slowly destroy it. I made it banal. It doesn’t tell much. It shows the impossibility to say something about this disaster. Interview with Nicholas Serota, 2012

Abstraktes Bild, 1990.

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Abstract Paintings When I paint an abstract picture (the problem is very much the same in other cases), I neither know in advance what it is meant to look like nor, during the painting process, what I am aiming at and what to do about getting there. Painting is consequently an almost blind, desperate effort, like that of a person abandoned, helpless, in totally incomprehensible surroundings. Notes, 1985 I began [to paint abstractions] in 1976, with small abstract paintings that allowed me to do what I had never let myself do: put something down at random. And then, of course, I realized that it never can be random. It was all a way of opening a door for me. If I don’t know what’s coming, that is, if I have no hard-and-fast image, as I have with a photographic original—then arbitrary choice and chance play an important part. Interview with Sabine Schütz, 1990 I really prefer making figurative work, but the figure is difficult. So to work around the difficulty, I take a break and paint abstractly. Which I really like, by the way, because it allows me to make beautiful paintings. Conversation with Henri-François Debailleux, 1993 The [abstract] paintings gain their life from our desire to recognize something in them. At every point they suggest similarities with real appearances, which then, however, never really materialize. Interview with Stefan Koldehoff, 1999 [I know an abstract painting is finished] when nothing disturbs me, and I have no idea what to do more, what I could add or destroy. This is very surprising. Often when I am painting again and again, every day, I have the feeling it is never ending and it will never become a good painting. And suddenly it’s finished. Interview with Nicholas Serota, 2012

Grey Paintings Grey. It makes no statement whatever; it evokes neither feelings nor associations: it is really neither visible nor invisible. Its inconspicuousness gives it the capacity to mediate, to make visible, in a positively illusionistic way, like a photograph. It has the capacity that no other color has, to make ‘nothing’ visible. From a letter to Edy de Wilde, 23 February 1975 The grey paintings—a painted grey surface, completely monochromatic —come from a motivation, or result from a state, that was very negative. It has a lot to do with hopelessness, depression and such things. But it has to be turned on its head in the end, and has to come to a form where these paintings possess beauty. And in this case, it’s not a carefree beauty, but rather a serious one. Interview with Christiane Vielhaber, 1986 One step toward abstract painting was the grey painting. [When] I was unsatisfied with what I did—a bad [representational] painting—you feel helpless so you destroy it, overpaint it [in grey]. Then you discover it has a quality, a very special quality. It tells the truth. Interview with Nicholas Serota, 2012

HIP/Art Resource, NY

Landscapes, Townscapes, Seascapes, and Still Lifes I paint landscapes or still-lifes in between the abstract works; they constitute about one-tenth of my production. On the one hand they are useful, because I like to work from nature—although I do use a photograph—because I think that any detail from nature has a logic that I would like to see in abstraction as well. On the other hand, painting from nature or painting still-lifes is a sort of diversion [that] creates balance. If I were to express it somewhat informally, I would say that the landscapes are a type of yearning, a yearning for a whole and simple life, a little nostalgic. Interview with Dorothea Dietrich, 1985 w

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My landscapes are not only beautiful or nostalgic, with a Romantic or classical suggestion of lost Paradises, but above all ‘untruthful.’ I mean the glorifying way we look at nature— nature, which in all its forms is always against us, because it knows no meaning, no pity, no sympathy, because it knows nothing and is absolutely mindless: the total antithesis of ourselves, absolutely inhuman. Notes, 1986

Color Charts The first color charts were unsystematic. They were based directly on commercial color samples. They were still related to Pop Art. In the canvases that followed, the colors were chosen arbitrarily and drawn by chance. Then…I developed a system based on a number of rigorously defined tones and proportions. Interview with Irmeline Lebeer, 1973 The starting points are the four pure colors red, yellow, green, and blue; their in-between shades and scales of brightness result in color schemes containing 16, 64, 256 and 1,024 shades. More colors would be pointless because it wouldn’t be possible to distinguish between them clearly. Notes for a press conference, 28 July 2006

Counterclockwise from top left: Stadtbild F (Cityscape F), Inv. 2778, 1968, 200 x 200 cm, oil on canvas; Stukas, Inv. WAF PF 22, 1964, 80 x 80 cm, oil on canvas; Installation view of 18 October 1977 (partial series), 1988, included in the exhibition, MoMA 2000: Open Ends.

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Counterclockwise from top left: bpk Bildagentur/Staatliche Kunsthalle, Karlsruhe, Germany/Wolfgang Pankoke/Art Resource, NY; bpk Bildagentur/Pinakothek der Moderne, Bayerische Staatsgemaeldesammlungen/Art Resource, NY; Digital Image © The Museum of Modern Art/ Licensed by SCALA/Art Resource, NY.

18 October 18 1977 (Baader-Meinhof or RAF series)

Portraits

There was no special event that made me decide [to paint the BaaderMeinhof group]. I had collected some photos and the idea was in the back of my mind for a long time. It was growing and growing, so finally I said, ‘I must paint this.’ I come from East Germany and am not a Marxist, so of course at the time I had no sympathy for the ideas, or for the ideology that these people represented. I couldn’t understand, but I was still impressed. Like everyone, I was touched. It was an exceptional moment for Germany. Interview with Gregorio Magnani, 1989

I had always taken photographs and used several for pictures during the 1960s, although I began using my own much more in the late ’60s. I mainly photographed objects, rarely taking portrait shots. The portraits I painted at this time were based on passport photographs…I began painting pictures of people with the painting Ema (Nude Descending a Staircase) [CR: 134]. The photographs I used mainly came from illustrated magazines and that was the simple reason why most of the pictures were black and white. Comments on some works, 1991

In the early 1960s, having just come over from the GDR, I naturally declined to summon up any sympathy for the aims and methods of the Red Army Faction [RAF]. I was impressed by the terrorists’ energy, their uncompromising determination and their absolute bravery; but I could not find it in my heart to condemn the State for its harsh response. That is what States are like; and I had known other, more ruthless ones. The deaths of the terrorists, and the related events both before and after, stand for a horror that distressed me and has haunted me as unfinished business ever since, despite all my efforts to suppress it. Notes for a press conference, November–December 1988 (held at Museum Haus Esters, Krefeld, February 1989)

Only about one per cent of my paintings show family members. Do they help me deal with problems? It’s likely that these problems can only be depicted. But photographs, private ones and others, keep appearing that fascinate me so much that I want to paint them. And sometimes the real meaning these images have for me only becomes apparent later. SPIEGEL interview, conducted by Susanne Beyer and Ulrike Knöfel, 2005

I was frightened by [the RAF], and I was amazed to see an incredible blindness there that exposed our cruelest and most vicious side. But the most frightening aspect for me was the sympathy accorded to these fanatics. On Pop, East and West, and Some of the Picture Sources. Uwe M. Schneede in Conversation with Gerhard Richter The reason these paintings are destined for New York is not because I am disappointed about a lack of German interest, but because MoMA asked me, and because I consider it to be the best museum in the world. Interview with Hubertus Butin, 1995

Other Media & Subjects [Compiling the Atlas of my photographic source material], my motivation was more a matter of wanting to create order—to keep track of things. All those boxes full of photographs and sketches weigh you down, because they have something unfinished, incomplete, about them. So it’s better to present the usable material in an orderly fashion and throw the other stuff away. That’s how the Atlas came to be, and I exhibited it a few times. Interview with Stefan Koldehoff, 1999 [The idea of making objects] came to me and I said, ‘I am allowed to do this.’ Not so many—some glasses. These are not sculptures. They are objects, not paintings. Painting is flat. Paintings show what isn’t there. Interview with Nicholas Serota, 2012

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•What’s WHAT•

Culture

Performance art meets the Masters of the Renaissance at Bill Viola’s Electronic Renaissance (above) organized by Palazzo Strozzi in Florence, Italy. Viola, one of today’s leading video artists, specializes in architectural video installations and sound environments that explore spirituality and humanity. March 10– July 23. palazzostrozzi.org

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Stop at the Hirshhorn in D.C. to see work by Japanese Pop Art pioneer Yayoi Kusama. Her work influenced Warhol and Oldenburg. She created the iconic yellow popdot pumpkin on Japan’s Naoshima Island. She’s 87 with Bing-cherry red hair. Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors is on display until May 14. hirshhorn.si.edu

Mountainside at Northstar in Lake Tahoe has a seasonal artist program at the new Rendezvous Cabins—high in the Ponderosa forest. Residents visit, have a drink, and chat with the artists during interactive studio hours. mountainsidenorthstar.com

Wine, food, and music at BottleRock Napa Valley 2017 (below). It’s a start-of-summer party with music by Maroon 5, Tom Petty, and the Foo Fighters; food by Morimoto and Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery; wine by JaM, Cakebread, and Silver Oak, and that’s only the tip of the proverbial iceberg. May 26–28. Tickets sell out fast but are available through Lyte for resale on the concert’s site. bottlerocknapavalley.com

Newly opened Andaz Scottsdale offers Cattle Track Arts, a compound founded in the ’30s. Art pieces like pottery and tabletop items are found throughout the property, and guests are given interactive experiences—from pottery classes to photography demonstrations— both on site and at the artists’ private studios. andaz.hyatt.com

Artists in Residence A different Southern artist visits Montage Palmetto Bluff (below) in South Carolina each month, offering homeowners, resort guests, and locals a hands-on opportunity to learn through workshops, classes, and musical performances. palmettobluff.com

Work out with art by power walking in NYC’s Met (at 8:30 a.m. before the museum opens) with athletic docents from Monica Bill Barnes & Co. Tickets start at $35. metmuseum.org

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In Paris? Catch a play or concert at the new, futuristic La Seine Musicale concert hall (in an abandoned, then redesigned Renault factory) on an island in the sinuous Seine. laseinemusicale.com

The Big Ears Festival (by the organizer of Bonnaroo) is the most adventurously—even radically—programmed music/ art festival in the United States. You might hear the Knoxville Symphony performing electronic chamber music or Grammynominated Emilia Amper playing Scandinavian folk music on a nyckelharpa. March 23–26. Check the lineup at bigearsfestival.com.

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Top, Long Beach, Ca, Bill Viola Studio. Opposite: Top left, Eric Laignel; top right, Forest Johnson.

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Train like a champ at BXR, London’s first boutique boxing gym (below). Step into the ring with one of the all-star lineup of coaches—ex-champion boxers and martial arts experts. Early members run the gamut from wellknown boxing promoters to welltoned Victoria’s Secret models. Founding memberships start at $2,246/year. One of the perks: made-to-measure Di Nardo boxing gloves. bxrlondon.com

Do Baccarat, the NYC art-and-designthemed hotel (above), launches a Mastering Manhattan package that includes after-hours tours of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), private appointments with awardwinning fashion, home décor, and furniture artisans who will create one-of-a-kind pieces for you. Vanessa Noel shoes. Specially commissioned Baccarat pieces. From $900/night (purchases extra); baccarathotels.com. Jet to South Africa for the Cuvee Gala. The party includes five-star dining, wine country heli-tours, diving with sharks, and a luxe safari in SA’s “big cat country.” Accommodations at the muchanticipated, newly opened The Silo (below) and Singita Boulders. May 31–June 10. From $16,000– $22,000 per person; cuvee.com.

Popping the question? Maui’s Montage Kapalua Bay partners with the House of Harry Winston for an extravagant engagement experience—involving rose

petals, Champagne, private musicians, helicopter rides, and the engagement ring of her dreams. $20,000 (includes three nights in ocean-view penthouse, breakfasts, dinners, massages; price of ring is not included). montagehotels.com

From mega-yachts to the newest outboards at the Palm Beach International Boat Show (above). Deep pockets can buy yachts like the 230-foot Martha Ann (built by Lürssen Yachts) for $79,000,000. Smaller (but still substantial) pockets can lease yachts like the 147-foot Party Girl for $169,000/week. March 23–26. showmanagement.com Japan. Cherry blossoms. Vintage cars. Country roads. The Samurai Challenge Rally is open to pre1974 vintage and classic cars, and new this year, a noncompetitive Touring Category open to any car—even your Narita International Airport rental. $33,220 (includes luxury accommodations, meals, and emergency mechanical and medical assistance). rallyround.co.uk

Spend a March weekend scouting the horizon from the Headlands State Park for California gray whales and their babies as they migrate up the California coast to Alaska. Hop aboard a whalewatching boat. Take a sea cave tour via kayak. Drink some microbrew at the 21st Annual Beer Festival on March 18. mendowhale.com

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Coastal dune lakes. They exist only in a handful of places in the world; this is the only place in the United States. Explore wetlands. Bike the 19-mile Timpoochee Trail. Scuba in Morrison Springs’ clear, fresh water. Stay and shop in a collection of laid-back seaside villages. southwalton.com

The Middle Fork of Idaho’s legendary Salmon River is a mecca for fly-fishing and whiteknuckle rafting. Now, Far and Away Adventures, a luxury camping outfitter, also offers a BourbonTasting Experience—including pours of rare and expensive Pappy Van Winkle. $2,900 per person; far-away.com.

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Celebrated chef and plant-based lifestyle guru Matthew Kenney (Plant Food + Wine) partners with ultra-luxe Kukui’ula resort cottage community for week-long wellness retreats—MK Wellness Program. Open-air spa. Yoga. Farmstead meals. Stand-up paddleboarding and surf lessons. $7,200/ person double; $8,500 single; matthewkenneywellness.com. w

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Buy

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All the spring runway shows are focusing on glowing and naturallooking skin. Clarins (below) helps you get that look with the new Hydra-Essential Collection (in a variety of super-quenching textures and serums for every skin type and climate). Starting at $48. For bathingsuit season, Clarins Body Fit—a new anti-cellulite contouring formula. $70; clarinsusa.com.

Poliform’s new Trail Kitchen Systems (above) are designed by architect Carlo Colombo. Oversized, gather-around island—perfect for casual home entertaining. Newly designed integrated cabinets with fumè reflecting glass. Display cabinets when the interior light is on; concealed storage when the light is off. poliformusa.com Cut-and-color maestro Rossano Ferretti (20 salons from Beverly Hills to Beijing) launches a new line of uber-botanical hair-pampering products—the Parma Collection (below). Made in Italy. shop.rossanoferretti.com

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Tilit, the made-in-New York, upand-coming fashion line, is onestop shopping for harried tycoons who need their staff to look and dress the part. Custom designs for every member of your staff— from housekeeping to chefs— incorporating your personal style, color palette, and logo. A customdesigned look for up to 25 staff members starts at $10,000. tilitnyc.com

Credo Beauty (quickly becoming the Sephora of natural beauty products) opens a new store and spa in Los Angeles (above). The best wild-crafted, organic, and effective beauty products, available in stores (San Francisco, LA, and New York) and online. credobeauty.com

Inspired by street fashion and designer Taka Hayashi’s artwork, Brooks x Vault by Vans (below) limited-edition collection extends from laser-etched high-tops to cycling saddles. From $220; brooksengland.com.

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Nothing sets the tone for your home like an amazing work of art. Saatchi Art is the largest online source for works by the most talented emerging artists. Free art advisory services. Paintings start at $2,000; fine art prints start at $70. saatchiart.com

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Food art is whimsical and fun. Famous chef Jacques Pépin paints to relax. Large images of French chickens, hand-drawn (and mouthwatering) menus, and original Matisse-like painting. Prints start at $180; paintings at $2,500. jacquespepinart.com Natalie McGarvey’s watercolors— pho, salmon, chilis—feel almost Japanese. Prints from $30; originals from $150. ntmcgarvey.com

Vaunted second-generation rug merchants Woven Accents (stores in LA and NYC) shows a wide selection of antique, vintage, and tribal rugs and, since 2007, has been partnering with artists to create a line of contemporary, art-driven rugs (below). For spring, bold graphics and good-under-bare-feet textures. woven.is w

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Travel

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Amanoi, Aman’s meditative outpost in Vietnam’s Núi Chúa National Park (above), unveils two Spa Houses. One features a hammam, the other a banya. Each has a double treatment room, private specialist spa therapists, and bodywork instructor. From $900/night; aman.com. XOJET partners with Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group to offer VIP status (perks like upgrades, free breakfast, and cocktails with the GM) to its Preferred Access and Elite Access clients. Mandarin Oriental VIP guests will enjoy a booking concierge and $2,500 toward their first flight. xojet.com At nearly 4,500 square feet, the Regent Suite (below; from $70,000/ week for two) aboard Regent Seven Sea’s newly launched Explorer ship boasts a $250,000 Steinway

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The Peninsula Beijing (recently renovated, above) is bullish on contemporary Chinese artists. Curated by Michael Suh, director of the Museum of Contemporary Art Beijing (MoCA Beijing), the hotel’s collection of original Chinese paintings, sculptures, installations, and photography features monumental works by avant-gardist Qin Feng. beijing.peninsula.com The Peninsula Beverly Hills offers Biologique Recherche facials. (BR has long been a favorite beauty regime of A-listers.) Age-defying treatments start at $295 for 60 minutes. beverlyhills.peninsula.com The Peninsula New York (below) unveils The Fifth Avenue Suite—2,530 square feet of opulence designed by New York–based Bill Rooney (reminiscent of a grand New York apartment at $19,000/night). newyork.peninsula.com

Maroque piano from Dakota Jackson, crystal pieces from Lalique, a Savoir No. 1 mattress, and a gold-hued bathroom with private steam room, heated chaises lounges, and balcony hot tub. Unlimited spa treatments from the ship’s Canyon Ranch spa are included, as is a dedicated butler. The ship will cruise the Mediterranean in April and May (as well as October and November)— of note is the 10-night Spanish, French, and Italian Riviera voyage, departing Barcelona in early May. rssc.com

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Top left, Hermano Romanca; bottom right, Werner Straube Photo. Opposite: Top left, Ben Nicholson; middle left, Troy Campbell; right, Sanderbaks.com.

The Tree Hotel (in northern Sweden’s tall pine forest) adds the Snøhettadesigned 7th Room (two bedrooms, fireplace, airy terrace). Big views over the lush Lapland treetops to the Lule River and, at night, the shimmering northern lights. From $1,600/night; treehotel.se.


The Cotswolds—gentle hills, pretty lanes, historic villages—right out of Downton Abbey. Red Savannah (below) offers a quintessentially English baronial experience with a new portfolio of private estates, manor houses, and a converted 17th-century monastery. From $8,675/week; redsavannah.com.

Acqualina Resort & Spa announces a new Royal Spa Suite (below). A Fendi Casa–furnished sanctuary (perfect for couples to retreat into total privacy) includes an opulent mother-of-pearl steam room. The Royal Package—Champagne, massages, 24K-gold rejuvenation facial—starts at $1,787/night (three-night minimum stay). acqualinaresort.com

Pulitzer Amsterdam, 25 beautifully restored and linked 17th- and 18thcentury houses in Amsterdam’s canal district, has added five new, apartment-sized suites (below). Some perks: personal bar service, French-press coffee (with real cream in a glass bottle) in the rooms, bikes, scooters, and a private canal boat. From $730/night; pulitzeramsterdam.com.

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Casa Chameleon at Las Catalinas, Costa Rica, casachameleonhotels.com Conrad Bora Bora Nui, French Polynesia, conradhotels3.hilton.com Dream Hotel, Hollywood, dreamhotels.com Dwell Hotel, Chattanooga, thedwellhotel.com Fifty House, Milan, fiftyhouse.com Four Seasons Resort, The Nam Hai, Hoi An, Vietnam, fourseasons.com Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club, Florida, fourseasons.com Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square, London, fourseasons.com Hotel Eden, Rome (left), dorchestercollection.com Hyatt Regency Fuzhou Cangshan, China, fuzhoucangshan.regency.hyatt.com Kokomo Island, Fiji, kokomoislandfiji.com The Silo, Cape Town, theroyalportfolio.com w

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Pendulum, Vail Utilizing a rotisserie and wood-fired oven, chef Jake Burkhardt’s dishes are nuanced by Argentina, Peru, Mexico City, and Spain. Appetizers are shared plates— tater tots and caviar, oysters with fennel mignonette, crispy Peruvian octopus (above). A big wine list with lots of South American labels. pendulumvail.com

Agern, New York (above) Chef Gunnar Gíslason showcases the new Nordic cuisine of Iceland. Arctic char and beef heart are on the Land & Sea tasting menu; butternut squash and beetroot on the Field & Forest menu. At Grand Central Terminal. agernrestaurant.com

Sushi Wakon, Kyoto In the new Four Seasons, the 10-seat counter is made from a single piece of 200-year-old Japanese cypress. The dining room overlooks a tranquil 800-year-old pond garden (above). Choose from a sushi menu or order omakase (chef’s choice). Outstanding collection of sakes. sushiwakon.com

Blanca, Sydney (above) Tomi Björck and Samuel Cole, both co-owners and chefs, are keen about “full-on flavors.” Locals stop here for a quick midday bite or a several hours’ dinner involving a lot of seafood—grilled squid, roasted scallops, Kingfish sashimi, and a flight of Björck’s eight different gin and tonics. blanca.com.au

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Sant Ambroeus, Palm Beach The design is inspired by the 1950s “gran caffés” in Italy. A deliciously traditional red-sauce menu includes tomato and basil spaghetti, ricotta ravioli, and veal scaloppini. Dozens of Italian wines by the glass (try the Sicilian Etna Rosso, Tenuta delle Terre Nere) and a nice list of grappas. santambroeus.com

Top left, Steve Kepple; top right, Evan Sung.

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Dad’s Luncheonette, Half Moon Bay, California (above) Former Saison chef (and a new dad) transforms a century-old train caboose into an Americanathemed diner. His menu features “gussied up” hot dogs and hamburgers (grass-fed beef, grilled pork-belly bacon, and a Ben’s Coastside Farm egg). dadsluncheonette.com

Bars

Income Tax, Chicago (above) You know what they say about death and taxes. But one thing’s certain—a drink or two might be in order on Tax Day at this bar with affordable bottles and glasses. The compact menu is definitely Old World—coq au vin, flammenkuchen, sweetbreadstuffed angolitti. incometaxbar.com

Chess Club, London This is really a chess club that’s also a bar and restaurant. Chef Jackson Boxer (famed cookbook author Arabella Boxer is his grandmother) harvests vegetables from his family’s farm in Sussex. Membership is $560/year. Applications available online. chessclublondon.com Liaison, Los Angeles A buzzy new spot. Great cocktails. Beautiful crowd. Open-air garden bar (with fire pits) and an intimate indoor liquor lounge but also a kitchen that turns out the most amazing roast chicken. liaisonla.com

Diamond Reef, Brooklyn The guys behind popular Manhattan bar Attaboy, Michael McIlroy and Sam Ross are the open neighborhood place on the Crown Heights/BedStuy border. A backyard that’s open late … with food trucks. diamondreefnyc.com

Temporis, Chicago A 20-seat restaurant by two chefs who worked together at the legendary Les Nomades. Each day features one single, of-themoment, eight-course tasting menu. Maybe wild mushroom consommé, rabbit rillettes, or coffee-marinated venison. Call ahead if you have food allergies or preferences. temporischicago.com One Fifth, Houston Wet-aged, perfectly marbled steak (below, yes, this is Texas) in a building that was a church before it was a restaurant. Big and bigger seafood towers. Roasted oysters topped with pork cracklings. An impressive number of premium bourbons, ryes, and single malts. onefifthhouston.com

Fine & Rare, New York (below) A handsome place for that after-work drink. Or come later for the live jazz, seafood, and a refined take on classic cocktails—smoked Old Fashioneds with rye or rum; gin and tonic with juniper-infused ice. In Murray Hill. fineandrare.nyc w

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Real Estate

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Ritz-Carlton Residence Reserve, Los Cabos (above)—on a bluff overlooking the Sea of Cortez, 27 contemporary four- and five-bedroom single-family villas with swimming pools, 3 miles of private beach, and world-class marina (berths yachts up to 400 feet). From $4.1 million; theenclaves.mx.

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The Residences at Mandarin Oriental, a new 12-story, 85-unit tower in Boca Raton, Florida, offers residents Mandarin Oriental’s fivestar service as well as access to a Jack Nicklaus–designed golf course and full-service gold club. Sales launching summer 2017; mandarinoriental.com

Purchase a working farm complete with artfully restored or newbuild farmhouse within Tuscany’s historic 4,200-acre Castello di Casole (below and right) estate. Produce your own private-label wine and olive oil. 100 to 160 acres. From $5.9 million; castellodicasole.com.

One Vandam’s Penthouse A (below)—4-bedroom, 5,286 squarefoot, 3-level residence in New York’s SoHo—three terraces, three woodburning fireplaces, rooftop living room and outdoor spa. $25 million; onevandam.com/penthouses.php.

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Estancia Santa Barbara is a mix of single-story residences and townhouses that mirror the city’s distinctive Spanish Colonial Revival architecture. Close to downtown, the waterfront, and wine country. From $1 million; estanciasantabarbara.com.

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Via 57 West—asymmetrical, pyramidshaped building by star Danish architect Bjarke Ingles. Studio to four-bedroom rentals from $3,600/ month; via57west.com

Waterline Square (above)—a trio of gleaming glass towers (centered around a park) with expansive city and river views occupy one of the last remaining waterfront sites on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. Sales launching late spring; waterlinesquare.com

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