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LUXURY LUXURY MAGAZINE

SPRING 2018

C O N S P I C U O U S W I T H O U T

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When you fin ish a he a d of Pors c h e, B M W, Lex u s a n d Ca dilla c , thereâ€™s on ly on e th i n g to do.

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DEPARTMENTS

Issue 15

ADVENTURE Sea Worlds | 16

Taking the plunge might be the best passport to the greatest shows on Earth

WATCHES Blue Steel | 28

Cerulean shades of spring are the season’s latest watch trend

JEWELRY New Wave | 36 Curves and spirals dotted with diamonds and pearls

AUTO Power Shifts | 44

It’s a race to the finish line for naturally aspirated supercars

GETAWAYS Rock Stars | 56

Design-forward spas fittingly hewn into the most extraordinary landscapes

Blue Steel

FASHION Weekend Vibes | 68

Channel ‘70s hip with patterns, color, and sporty throwbacks

Sea Worlds

NATURE Diamond Life | 90

These precious stones may last forever, but the mines in which they are excavated do not

ONE PLACE, TWO WAYS Portland, Rome, and Iceland | 100

For wine lovers and foodies, for classicists and trendsetters, for environmentalists and urbanists

Spring 2018

MAGNIFICENT is MODERN South Sea Pearls emerge as bold new classics: Bejeweled bubbles, baubles and bangles. The Bubble Collection by Sean Gilson for Assael.

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DEPARTMENTS California Dreaming

108

TRENDS California Dreaming | 108 The Golden State’s indie fashion trends

ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN Living Well | 130

Additions for home spas, yoga studios, meditation pavilions, and recreation wings are now as crucial as a kitchen remodel

FURNISHINGS From Bathing Beauties to the Great Outdoors | 150

Tension shedding, home remedies, and outfitting pools and patios for lounging around in style

TECH Now Trending | 152

The future has arrived with artificial intelligence and virtual reality taking work and play to new levels

WHAT’S HOT Get Real | 160

On the treadmill or on the couch

HEALTH Pill Stoppers | 166

Functional medicine practitioners are listening

Living Well

130

ARTIST PROFILE In Living Color | 222 Artist David Hockney

THE LAST PAGES What’s What | 236

From art and culture to shopping and real estate

Spring 2018

FEATURES Spa Days | 116

Eight destinations bring something new to the massage table

Healing Properties | 170 Europeâ€™s top cutting-edge medical spas

Imperial Vienna | 182

The Austrian capital blends modern living with the best of the Habsburg Empire

Basta Pasta | 192

Traditionalists of Emilia-Romagna, Italy

French Foreign Legion | 200

The Louvre Abu Dhabi leads the charge of new initiatives by Franceâ€™s decorated museums

Screen Shots | 208

The big five film festivals offer an entertainment spectacle for every interest

Guitar Picking | 218

Screen Shots

The most sought-after prewar acoustics are keeping a rare sound from going silent

208

Spa Days

Spring 2018

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French Foreign Legion

200

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ON THE COVER British-born artist DAVID HOCKNEY makes pictures that are easy to enjoy. The Garden, 2015, featured on our cover, shows the lushly painted grounds of Hockney’s home and studio in the Hollywood Hills. Fully capable of reproducing the view with photographic accuracy, he has chosen to turn the picture into a chromatic fantasy, a vibrant and abstract composition that calls to mind masterpieces by Henri Matisse, Pierre Bonnard, even Marc Chagall. The crimson path is edged in lemon yellow, the buildings are primarily ultramarine, and the flowering shrubs, cacti, and palm trees represent a range of greens alongside violet and pale fuchsia. The high-keyed acrylic palette is further enlivened by Hockney’s rapid touches of the brush. Earlier in his career, Hockney was known for naturalistic depictions of the people and sun-drenched places he encountered in his adopted home of Los Angeles. He later experimented with perspective and various media— including the iPad. In recent years he has turned back to nature, painting the countryside of his native Yorkshire. The Garden displays the exuberance and joy that have contributed to Hockney’s place as one of the most beloved artists working today.

LUXURY MAGAZINE’S profile of David Hockney begins on page 222.

Spring 2018

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PUBLISHED BY LUXURY CARD PUBLISHER Audrey Arnold audrey@luxurymagazine.com EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Frank CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jennifer Fahey COPY EDITORS Kersten Deck Jocelyn Winn CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Frankie Batista Dean Isidro Evan McGlinn Jonathan Pozniak Alexander Spacher

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jorge S. Arango Alexandra Cheney Mark Ellwood Jason Edward Kaufman Heidi Mitchell Irene Rawlings Adam Robb Dena Roché Paul Rubio Jennifer Ashton Ryan Ted Alan Stedman Codie Steensma Stacie Stukin Rima Suqi Gary Walther CONTRIBUTING STYLIST Alev Aktar Taylor Jacobson Heidi Meek Katie Mossman

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All contents of LUXURY MAGAZINE are the intellectual property of Black Card Mag LLC and Black Card LLC d/b/a Luxury Card (“Publisher”) and/or the respective photographers, writers, artists, and advertising agencies; are protected by copyright and trademark laws; and may not be reproduced, republished, distributed, transmitted, displayed, broadcast or otherwise exploited in any manner without the express written permission of the copyright and trademark owners. (c) 2018 Black Card Mag LLC and Black Card LLC d/b/a Luxury Card. All rights reserved. Views expressed are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the Publisher, which makes reasonable efforts to verify its content. Publisher expressly disclaims and does not assume responsibility for the validity of any claims or statements made, including content errors, omissions, or infringing content. Advertisements and offers are the responsibility of the individual advertising entities, and do not constitute a legal offer by Publisher. Publisher is not responsible for price fluctuations. Prices are based on those accurate at press time. Please consult with a Luxury Card Concierge for current prices.

ADVENTURE

SEA WORLDS Taking the plunge might be the best passport to the greatest shows on earth. by Ted Alan Stedman

Spring 2018

RIVIERA MAYA MEXICO

Aaron Wong; Greg Lecoeur

Mystical portals of caverns and labyrinths

onsidering that 70 percent of the Earth’s surface is ocean—and less than 5 percent has been explored—it’s not hyperbole to say diving is among the ultimate modern-day adventures. More than colorful scenes of tropical fish, unexpected sights like aging shipwrecks and towering subarctic cliffs round out divers’ log books. Here, a handful of distinctive experiences in some of the most exhilarating locales.

To the Maya, the water-filled cenotes in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula were portals to the underworld. But eerie mysteries have a way of enticing adventure-seekers, and today the dozens of sinkholes and caverns scattered throughout the jungled interior have become spectacular dive locations known for their beautiful backdrops and Indiana Jones allure. A smattering of cenotes in the Riviera Maya, including Garden of Eden, Dos Ojos, El Gran, and Tajma Ha, are popular for all levels of experience and have become a hub for the international cavern and cave diving community with motives beyond spying pretty ocean reefs and colorful fish. Open cenotes can appear otherworldly, as overhead light casts shafts of sunlight on stalactites and stalagmites that form like daggers. Deeper parts of caverns get positively surreal with the halocline effect, as denser saltwater diffracts sunlight through freshwater to create bizarre visual imagery. With the proper training and certification, cave divers explore deeper-side caverns, forming neverending labyrinths that have yielded a trove of ancient Mayan artifacts. Foreboding, mysterious, even challenging, the cenote experience is a worthy entry in any curious diver’s log book. Operator: Planet Scuba Mexico, planetscubamexico.com w Spring 2018

TIPUTA PASS RANGIROA, FRENCH POLYNESIA An epic South Pacific drift dive For divers, Tiputa Pass is at first tempting, then irresistible—like strapping into a theme-park ride where there’s no turning back. Indeed, Tiputa is legendary, among the most remarkable drift dives known. Formed by a strait in Rangiroa in the Tuamotu Islands of French Polynesia, the current discharges water from the 50-mile-wide elliptical atoll to form a racing underwater highway. After the boat drop just offshore, divers submit to the current’s pull, whooshing along at up to 8 knots at a preferred 90-foot depth. But the sensation of a weightless spacewalk is only half the adrenaline rush. With 200 feet of visibility, the tapestry of marine life unfolds like a realtime IMAX experience. Hammerheads, reef sharks, manta rays, barracudas, and a Darwinian ensemble of South Pacific reef fish hover above the Tahitian seafloor that seems so wide it’s like observing the curvature of Earth. As if the underwater e-ticket ride of your life isn’t enough, don’t be surprised if inquisitive juvenile reef sharks make a feint toward divers (it’s all for show). Operator: Top Dive, topdive.com 18

Spring 2018

BAA ATOLL MALDIVES

Uli Kunz; Thomas P. Peschak

Research expeditions and conservation efforts among giant manta rays The 26 ring-shaped atolls of the Maldives sprawl over the Indian Ocean like a string of pearls cast upon a tourmaline sea, each encircling a calm lagoon with paper-white-sand beaches and flourishing reefs. Understandably, the idyllic island nation is a diving Nirvana. In Hanifaru Bay in Baa Atoll, interact with giant manta rays—some of which grow to 25 feet from wingtip to wingtip. Seeing the graceful, charismatic creatures soar in from the depths is one of diving’s apex experiences, and the best ticket to catch the show is aboard the Four Seasons Explorer. Each September, the three-deck catamaran hosts expeditions of the Manta Trust research and conservation organization. Diving with the elegant creatures is reward enough, but dive guests will score extra credit as citizen scientists, helping ID mantas by observing and photographing the animals’ distinct markings. In just over 10 years, the Maldives project has logged more than 35,000 sightings and identified more than 3,850 individual mantas. Despite the frequency of sightings, mantas remain enigmas; not much is known of their breeding and life cycles. Aided by willing divers, encounters in the Maldives have begun to help researchers gain insight to these remarkable animals. Operator: Four Seasons, fourseasons.com w Spring 2018

BONAIRE CARIBBEAN

When the sun sets on the Caribbean island of Bonaire, colorful nightlife takes on a new dimension. Wondrous reef creatures that hide during the day come alive under the cloak of darkness to prowl, feed, or, hopefully, hook up with an obliging mate. But all this action might otherwise go unnoticed if not for a unique night diving experience hatched by a local dive operator that outfits divers with a special lens fitted over dive masks and a submersible UV light. About 25 percent of Bonaire’s marine life species have fluorescent pigments that emit a dazzling glow under ultraviolet lights. Like crashing a psychedelic rave party, dives become thrilling scavenger hunts to discover fluorescent creatures of seemingly extraterrestrial origin. Shore divers wielding the provided UV accessories gently swim the island’s placid water to the encircling shallow reef and drop to the 45-foot zone. With lights beaming like an underwater light show, divers spot corals, sponges, centipede-like worms, tiny crabs, obscure fish, and insectlike invertebrates that glow in stark contrast to the sleepy nocturnal reef. It’s a heady experience that even seasoned night divers find transformational. Operator: Buddy Dive Bonaire, buddydive.com 20 Spring 2018

Lynn Miner

Night diving with fluorescent denizens of the deep

WAKATOBI INDONESIA

Andrea Marshall

Earth’s greatest marine biodiversity Being tagged the “world’s epicenter of coral reef biodiversity” is a superlative claim, but with more than 400 species of coral and 700 species of fish officially recorded in Wakatobi alone, Wakatobi Dive Resort can rest on its laurels. Located on a small island within a designated UNESCO Marine Biosphere Reserve in Indonesia’s Sulawesi Sea, Wakatobi offers shore dives, daily boat dives, and multi-day yacht diving excursions into the remote corners of the Tukang Besi Archipelago. Not that guests need to venture farther than their own private beach: The resort’s House Reef, home to pygmy seahorses, eagle rays, and a menagerie of colorful reef fish, is ranked among the world’s best shore dives. A few fin kicks farther lies the Zoo, a sloping reef site among the fishiest of all of central Indonesia. Another nearby site favored by photographers is Table Coral City, known for its colorful sponge gardens and broad umbrellas of upstanding table corals that seem like scenes taken from Dr. Seuss books. Add to the superb diving Wakatobi’s fine dining, spa treatments, and eco-ambiance. Operator: Wakatobi Dive Resort, wakatobi.com

Spring 2018

CHUUK LAGOON MICRONESIA

In 1944, more than 40 vessels of the Imperial Japanese Navy at Chuuk Lagoon (previously Truk Lagoon) were sunk by US forces during the two-day attack known as Operation Hailstone. Today this solemn assemblage roughly 3,000 miles west of Hawaii ranks as the world’s number one destination for shipwreck divers. Exploring the wrecks of Chuuk, part of the Federated States of Micronesia, is as much about history as it is a visceral visual to witness how time has deteriorated the wrecks into florid tableaux reclaimed by the corrosive sea. The rusted hulk of Fujikawa Maru, which some say is the best example, overflows with marine life and war memorabilia. Lush gardens of psychedelic soft coral bedeck the 433-foot former aircraft ferry sitting perfectly upright. Shinkoku Maru is another must-see wreck: a 500-foot former oil tanker sprouting a whimsical palette of bright yellow, red, and purple soft corals home to iridescent damselfish, elegant angelfish, and alien-like invertebrates. Of course, remnants of the thousands of lives lost—samurai swords, helmets, boots, and intact boxes of glass beer bottles—are enduring reminders, making Chuuk among diving’s most contemplative experiences. Operator: Odyssey Adventures, trukodyssey.com

Aaron Wong; Brandon Cole (inset)

Historic wrecks at the Graveyard of the Pacific

GLADDEN SPIT AND SILK CAYES MARINE RESERVE, BELIZE

Ethan Daniels/OceanStockImages.com

The worldâ€™s most predictable whale shark gathering Untold numbers of whale sharks the size of school buses return in April and May, sometimes by Marchâ€™s full moon, to a 22-mile swath of Belize coastline known as Gladden Spit to gorge on the eggs of breeding snapper. Thought to be the most consistent whale shark gathering anywhere, the annual spectacle prompted the government in 2003 to create the Gladden Spit and Silk Cayes Marine Reserve. The results have been nothing short of phenomenal, and whale sharks, which can reach lengths of 40 feet and weights of 20 tons, are the largest fish in the seas and have become revered celebrities. After a rundown on guidelines and procedures, masks and flippers go overboard and typically hover near the surface as whale sharks, their gaping 6-footwide megamouths filter feeding on the underwater buffet, cruise just yards beneath. Once considered historically rare (even veteran diver Jacques Cousteau reportedly encountered only two whale sharks during his life), this bucket list experience can be a reality for any adventure diver thanks to recent conservation measures and a better understanding of migration patterns. Operator: Splash Dive Center, splashbelize.com w Spring 2018

Spring 2018

Computing Wirelessly in Tiputa Pass, Rangiroa Having a reliable dive computer and knowing how to use it are critical for this fast-paced drift dive where thereâ€™s no turning back. With the Aqua Lung i750TC, divers have an air-integrated wrist-mount computer that transmits critical tank information such as remaining air time, bottom time, and current PSI to your computer wirelessly. Thanks to an exceptionally crisp color display with three-axis compass, reading dive data is quick and easy. aqualung.com

Snapping Shots in Chuuk Lagoon, Micronesia As the Japanese navy vessels sunk during WWII deteriorate, the case for quality imagery of the historic fleet is a given. The SeaLife DC2000 Pro Duo is up to the task, anchored by a self-sealed camera using a high-resolution, 20-megapixel sensor with multiple shooting modes. With dual, adjustable lights employing auto-flash brightness and manual and LED continuous illumination, the system covers the bases for stills and video. sealife-cameras.com

Top Left: Brandon Cole

Take along 4

GEAR UP

Seeing Clearly in Indonesia’s Wakatobi Resort The exotic underwater panorama at Wakatobi includes hundreds of creatures large and small that you won’t want to miss. Seeing clearly is key, and the Atomic Aquatics Venom Frameless mask uses co-molded silicone materials bonded directly to the exclusive Atomic UltraClear lens. The design lets the lens sit closer to your eyes, offering a broader field of vision in all directions and maximizing the viewing area. Without the bulky frame, comfort is also increased. atomicaquatics.com

Maneuvering Quickly in the Maldives When giant manta rays swoop in, divers need to maneuver quickly and efficiently to catch the fleeting show. With TUSa HyFlex Switch fins, the exclusive PuRiMaX Polyurethane Blade System design provides a snappy response that increases power transfer to the fin blade. Flutter kicks—crucial for positioning during photography—are virtually effortless, which yields good speed and power. Using an open-heel design, the fin’s easy kicking is aided by superior comfort. tusa.com

Snorkeling on the Surface in Belize Swimming among whale sharks is a bucket list opportunity, with many encounters occurring at the surface. That makes a strong case for the Sherwood Scuba Tiga Dry Snorkel SNO56. With a comfortable mouthpiece and streamlined design, it’s fitted with a valve that completely seals out all water from waves and when submerged. Return to the surface and there’s no need to clear the snorkel; you simply resume breathing. sherwoodscuba.com

4 Beaming Light in Mexico’s Cenotes Veering from the main sunlit chamber into the shadows, divers require a bright, reliable waterproof light source such as the Underwater Kinetics Sunlight C8 eLED L2. The light cranks out 1,200 lumens with an optional rechargeable battery (900 lumens with alkaline batteries) and uses optics to focus almost 90 percent of the peak light output into the center of the beam. Built from a tough, noncorrosive composite material, the light will last for years. underwaterkinetics.com

Floating Effortlessly in Bonaire Yo-yoing underwater isn’t an option when you’re trying to key-in on fascinating reef dwellers in the dark. Enter the Scubapro Equalizer BCD. The svelte, travel-friendly buoyancy compensator device/vest enables you to dial in precise depths with its front-adjustable inflator valve and color-coded exhaust valve pulls. The full-sized backpack design, wraparound air bladder, and tank strap system provide extra stability and a secure, comfortable fit for long underwater sessions. scubapro.com

Suiting Up in Iceland Warmth-retaining dry suits are mandatory for this subarctic dive, and you won’t find a better protective outfit than the Hollis BTR-500 dry suit. The abrasionresistant nylon, rip-stop external material, and silky-smooth internal lining add up to uncommon durability and wearability. Seam-tape adhesion maximizes waterproofing while flexible latex neck and wrist seals keep water out. With Si-Tech inflator and dump air valves that purge trapped air, it’s a reliable survival suit for demanding cold-water dives. hollis.com —T.A.S. w Spring 2018

SILFRA FISSURE ICELAND Diving Iceland might sound like a counterintuitive proposition, but the subarctic nation home to descendants of Vikings and mythical elves actually lays claim to a singular diving experience found nowhere else: diving between continents. With more than 200 active volcanoes, Iceland is the product of its location straddling the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. That precise location is the Silfra fissure, a water-filled crack in Earthâ€™s crust where the continents drift apart 2 centimeters per year. Part of Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Silfra is extraordinary not only for its continental drift novelty but for its unsurpassed visibility. Scientists credit the 300-foot benchmark to the 36 degree Fahrenheit LangjĂśkull Glacier water source. In this harsh environment, there are no fish, and divers and snorkelers must wear protective dry suits. But the payoff is incomparable. Divers liken the experience to gliding through air as visibility is nearly endless, with towering underwater cliffs appearing like ramparts to medieval castles. With luck, divers might catch a fitting finale after exiting Silfra when the northern lights fill the night sky. Operator: DIVE.IS Sport Diving School of Iceland, dive.is u 26

Spring 2018

Jill Heinerth

A continental drift in glacial waters

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WATCHES

ROLEX Oyster Perpetual 39 in steel, $5,700, and Cellini Date 39 mm in white gold, $17,800; rolex.com

BLUE STEEL CERULEAN SHADES OF SPRING ARE THE SEASON’S LATEST WATCH TREND Photography JONATHAN POZNIAK

Spring 2018

Styling ALEV AKTAR

ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur 42 mm in steel with alligator strap, $12,700; rogerdubuis.com VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas Small Model 37 mm in steel with three interchangeable straps, $19,900; vacheronconstantin.com PIAGET Altiplano 60th Anniversary Limited Edition 43 mm in white gold with alligator strap, $23,900; piaget.com

Spring 2018

30 Spring 2018

From left: CHOPARD Happy Sport USA in steel with diamonds, $18,300; chopard.com DIOR TIMEPIECES La Mini D de Dior Satine 19 mm in steel with diamonds and gray mother-of-pearl, $4,950; dior.com TIFFANY Metro 3-Hand 34 mm in steel, $5,950; tiffany.com

Spring 2018

OMEGA De Ville Trésor quartz 36 mm in steel with diamonds, $4,500; omegawatches.com Opposite, from left: CARL F. BUCHERER Manero PowerReserve in steel, $11,000; carl-f-bucherer.com JAQUET DROZ SW Chrono in steel with Côtes de Genève dial, $17,300; jaquet-droz.com HUBLOT Classic Fusion Berluti 45 mm in titanium with blue Berluti leather strap, $13,600; hublot.com

Spring 2018

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Tribute Moon in steel, $12,700; jaeger-lecoultre.com HERMĂˆS Cape Cod in steel with diamonds and lapis lazuli dial, $10,800; hermes.com

Spring 2018

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JEWELRY

W E N AVE W

DS N O M A I D E C H T A I R W G D S E U T S. O T E U O C N D I E S PI LS D A D D L R A I O K S G SP L ZNIA R E O D P T A N I AN E A H P TAR S W NATH D O E J V AK D y E N V L h p A N A g gra A Stylin CUR W Photo O LL E Y TO

Spring 2018

GEORG JENSEN Magic ring in gold with diamonds, $825; georgjensen.com ASSAEL Cleo diamond and Akoya pearl ring in white gold, $1,800; assael.com YVEL Almog diamond and pearl ring in gold, $3,070; yvel.com DAVID WEBB Double-tipped nail ring in gold and platinum with diamonds, $7,300; davidwebb.com MIKIMOTO Twist South Sea cultured pearl ring in white gold, $5,700; mikimotoamerica.com

Spring 2018

LUGANO DIAMONDS Flexible diamond spiral bracelet, price upon request; luganodiamonds.com

Spring 2018

MESSIKA Daisy hand bracelet in gold with diamonds, $8,260; messika.com IPPOLITA Coral Reef Drizzle gold and diamond hoops, $6,500; ippolita.com ANA KHOURI Mirian gold bracelet, $7,570; anakhouri.com

Spring 2018

GEORG JENSEN Magic ring in gold with brilliant-cut diamonds, $1,200; georgjensen.com TIFFANY Elsa Peretti Wave necklace in gold with diamonds, $8,000; tiffany.com ANA KHOURI Simplicity gold necklace, $7,570; anakhouri.com

40 Spring 2018

Spring 2018

CADAR Duet Chain gold necklace, $12,850; cadar.com

Spring 2018

H.STERN Oscar Niemeyer textured gold cuff, $4,700; hstern.net MARCO BICEGO Marrakech Supreme gold necklace, $15,610; marcobicego.com

Spring 2018 43

AUTO

POWER SHIFTS The 2017 Los Angeles Auto Show confirmed the swan song of naturally aspirated supercars. But fear not, thereâ€™s still time to invest in these big-engine power plants. The time, though, is now. by Alexandra Cheney

44 Spring 2018

Aston Martin Valkyrie

here’s an old adage among big-engine devotees: There’s no replacement for displacement. Revving at 8,500 rpm with no boost to build, no superfluous muffling from turbochargers, naturally aspirated supercars possess a raw, unadulterated power. Their engines roar to life with a responsiveness currently unattainable by superchargers or turbos. Officially, displacement is defined as the combined swept volume of the pistons inside the cylinders of an engine. In human speak, a larger displacement engine has the potential for more power simply because it’s larger. Naturally aspirated, the engine builds off its own power, allowing for an immediate throttle reaction; motorists quite literally drive off the speed of the engine. A smaller engine boosted by a turbocharger (using exhaust steam) or supercharger (via the crankshaft) runs more efficiently and weighs less. Which is why, as global emissions standards tighten and automobile manufacturers evolve into technology companies, the idea of downsizing has gravitas. In time, the automotive symphony—all revs, sound, and audible emotion—will be supplanted for the preprogrammed shudder of a hybrid or electric powering up. Universally, carmakers are in accord. Forced induction is already favored over natural aspiration when it comes to the nameplates and vehicles that move each company’s needle. In fact, McLaren, BMW, and MercedesBenz have fully retired their naturally aspirated vehicles. At the Los Angeles Auto Show in November 2017, Chevrolet made its North American debut of the Corvette ZR1, a 755-horsepower V8 engine with an intercooled supercharger system. Chevy executives have already begun referring to it as a “move against the supercar landscape.” All carmakers have stated their intentions to take research and development budgets elsewhere, but Lexus, Maserati, and Chevrolet with their LC 500, GranTurismo Sport, and Corvette Grand Sport, respectively, still have a place in the market. Here, four marques still cheering for the big revs, albeit in a limited fashion, during this watershed moment. w

Spring 2018 45

ASTON MARTIN

Vanquish S Volante and Valkyrie

Aston Martin Vanquish S Volante

46 Spring 2018

Although James Bond has already opted into a twin turbo, his automobile brand of choice continues to faintly trifle in naturally aspirated terrain. The close of 2017 witnessed the expiration of the V12 Vantage S, Vanquish S Coupe, and Rapide S unblown engines. The 2018 Vanquish S Volante’s beloved 5.9-liter V12 that avowals 580 horsepower will be the last in the line. Many are familiar with its mutinous crescendo, the purified, dramatic snarling that piques at 7,000 rpm. Lest we forget, this is an automobile yearning to be revved. Not quite a supercar but more than a grand tourer, this super grand tourer is assembled in the rarefied air of the green fields of central England. With that comes an obligation to sophistication in every aspect of the car. It has long delivered a low-speed silkiness all the more amplified by the current 8-speed automatic transmission. This Vanquish S Volante marks the last of the Astons constructed with hardware inaugurated under Ford Motor Company’s ownership 17 years ago. “In response to the regulations, our strategy is to keep a V12, which is intrinsically linked to the DNA of the brand, but modernize the engine and future proof it,” says Matthew Clarke, Aston Martin’s marketing and communications general manager for the Americas. A new carbon-fiber front splitter, side sills, and rear valance tell buyers this isn’t its predecessor. But just in case, Aston Martin added an integrated spoiler and quad exhaust tips to the Vanquish S Volante’s taut, tall backside. Tip-toeing into new territory, Aston Martin’s Valkyrie is set for production this year. Dubbed the first all carbonfiber hypercar, Valkyrie will be outfitted with a naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12 specifically to a 1:1 power-to-weight ratio. The kicker, metaphorically and physically, though, is its electric motor, used “for a power boost.” Developed with engineers at London’s Cosworth automotive company, the 1,000-plus-horsepower introduction promises to be unique. Only 150 street-legal vehicles will be made and deliveries begin in 2019. The lead-time affords each potential driver plenty of time to be precisely measured. More racecar than not, the pertinent refinements are related to the engine, not the cabin. There’s practically no space between the seats, no cup holders, nor a stereo system. Cushions will be laser measured to accommodate the height, reach, and circumference of each driver. Air conditioning is essential but relatively simple, as the vehicle’s interior is quite compact and unfussy. “We can still deploy naturally aspirated V12s turned up to the extreme in limited-run products such as Valkyrie,” Clarke says, “but our pledge on EVs is to have an electric variant of every car we make by the mid-2020s.” In other words, prepare to be stirred, not shaken, by Aston Martins of the future. From $312,950 for the Vanquish S Volante, from $2.6 million for the Valkyrie; astonmartin.com w

Spring 2018

LAMBORGHINI

Aventador S and Huracรกn

Lamborghini Aventador S

Spring 2018

Wolfango.it (inset)

All images courtesy of the manufacturers

Lamborghini Huracán

Last spring, the Huracán Performante achieved the fastest lap time in history around the ultimate proving grounds: the Northern Loop at the famed Nürburgring.

There’s nothing quite like the pop-pop-howl of a naturally aspirated V10. Except, of course, the whirl-whirl-purr of a naturally aspirated V12. Such is the embarrassment of riches at the house of the Raging Bull. A staunch bastion of the naturally aspirated engine, Lamborghini’s Huracán features a 5.2-liter V10, which, depending on the edition selected (there are five: Performante, RWD, RWD Spyder, Spyder, and Coupé), churns 580–640 horsepower. The marque’s V12 Aventador S (Coupé and Roadster) flaunts 740 horsepower and four-wheel steering. On top of four-wheel drive, four-wheel steering means that rear wheels can direct and maneuver the car separately. Leaning into a curve, for example, the Aventador S’ rear wheels pivot up to three degrees opposite the front wheels, shortening the distance to the front wheels, and in those seconds, creating a shorter wheelbase. That abridging increases deftness on corners, while the Aventador S has a longer wheelbase that increases stability in straightaways. These two models represent two-thirds of Lamborghini’s standard production vehicles. While its freshly launched SUV, the Urus, runs on a turbocharged powertrain, the Aventador S and Huracán models remain smooth and strong, keeping forced induction at bay. “We have a long and strong tradition of naturally aspirated,” says Alessandro Farmeschi, chief operating officer of Automobili Lamborghini America. “We will continue to offer such engines to our customers because they are in the DNA of Lamborghini.” Since 2011, Lamborghini’s global sales numbers have more than doubled, totaling 3,815 deliveries in 2017. For now the company’s Sant’Agata Bolognese– headquartered executives have been vocal in championing its naturally aspirated engines, but also realistic in addressing the future. Responding to the current times, Lamborghini’s carbon dioxide reduction technologies (like stop-and-start and cylinder deactivation) come alongside its big engines, effectively meeting the latest and strictest European emission regulations without slowing down the cars. Last spring, the Huracán Performante achieved the fastest lap time in history around the ultimate proving grounds: the Northern Loop of the famed Nürburgring. Lamborghini credits the feat to a twofold set of proprietary technologies. Forged composite (as opposed to tradition woven carbon fiber) reduces the automobile’s weight by 88 pounds. Its active aerodynamic system of vents inhales air through the front of the supercar via flaps and flues then channels it throughout. Shunning an active wing for a fixed one, air flows in rather than around the Huracán, accumulating and controlling downforce. Called Aerodinamica Lamborghini Attiva, it’s yet another technological step forward that demonstrates Lamborghini’s investment in invention while continuing to favor its naturally aspirated engines. For the moment, the Italian bull has pushed forced induction down the road. From $417,650 for the Aventador S, from $203,500 for the Huracán; lamborghini.com w

Spring 2018 49

PORSCHE

911 GT3

50 Spring 2018

The experience of driving a true sports car, feeling the shift lever slot into place and the whole of the vehicle respond, borders on forgotten.

It’s an increasingly rare treat, after sliding into the minimalist, black-with-red-stripe sport seat of a 911 GT3, to glance up at the rev-counter and see 10,000 rpm. The engine excites with a growling sound. The original Porsche 911 GT3 debuted 19 years ago as a 355-horsepower 3.6-liter flat-six. Nearly two decades later, the 500-horsepower, 4.0-liter, 6-cylinder horizontally opposed engine remains over the back wheels and is the sole naturally aspirated 911 in production. Porsche calls it a “high-revving concept” and the engine begs to be dancing in the red. Hailed as the track car from a brand widely considered to have long dominated track asphalt, Porsche decided to make things interesting with the 2018 911 GT3 two-seater. Not only is the 911 GT3 available as either a 7-speed Porsche Doppelkupplung (PDK) with paddle-shifters or as a 6-speed manual transmission with short shift throws, the manual version comes with or without a mammoth fixed rear wing. Sans wing, the optional but no-cost additional Touring Package includes a far more discreet adaptive rear spoiler, similar to the 911 Carrera models. Unlike the Carrera, the GT3 manual doesn’t get a seventh gear. There’s no need to read the fine print; no cruising gear is de rigueur here. The very point of the manual is to allow this Porsche to do what Porsches do best: linger through its long first and second gears, revving high and shifting fast. The experience of driving a true sports car, feeling the shift lever slot into place and the whole of the vehicle respond, borders on forgotten. Something that was once commonplace has become unique, and Porsche is wisely culling that throwback seduction. “We offer a car for people who want to feel something special,” says Andreas Preuninger, director of the Porsche GT model line, “who want to have as much emotion as possible, as much throttle response and immediacy from a sports car engine.” Porsche didn’t plant all its owner-beloved Easter eggs in the manual transmission. The 911 GT3 PDK, Porsche’s interpretation of a dual-clutch gearbox, has a feature called paddle neutral that forces the car into neutral when both paddles are simultaneously held. Allowing the driver to “determine the preferred acceleration characteristics” could prove handy in thrusting corner force forward or in slippery, wet conditions. It’s almost as if Porsche is daring you to do a burnout. The manual says it goes from 0 to 60 mph in 3.8 seconds, the PDK in 3.2 seconds in part thanks to the 20-inch wheels. Inside, the 911 GT3 remains precise in its detailing with a dedicated smartphone compartment, wireless Internet access, and Apple CarPlay standard. Aside from the 2018 911 GT3, the only other models in the Porsche lineup to offer a naturally aspirated engine are the Porsche Cayenne and Cayenne Platinum Edition. When the 2019 Cayenne is introduced at dealers in August 2018, all Cayenne models will feature turbocharged engines. Porsche, it seems, will be embracing smaller displacement status quo. From $143,600; porsche.com w

Spring 2018

When it comes to the intersection of superheroes and supercars, the Audi R8 is parked in Ironman’s garage. Its naturally aspirated engine is “one of the unique selling points of the car,” according to Audi of America’s project manager Anthony Garbis. Every other vehicle across the brand uses forced induction. “It’s the dinosaur,” Garbis says, “but I don’t mean that in a negative way. It’s a big-engine supercar from the days when we dialed up the power for the new generation.” The 2018 R8 Coupe and convertible Spyder both run on a 5.2-liter V10 with 540 horsepower. The R8 V10 Plus models append 70 horsepower and 15 lb ft of torque, supersizing the Plus with 610 horsepower and 413 lb ft of torque. Furthermore, the massive Quattro’s all-wheel drive is mated to a 7-speed dual clutch transmission and offers up 0-to-60 mph in a blazing 3.5 seconds; it boasts a top Sspeed of 199 mph (the R8 V10 Plus Aston Martin Vanquish Volante does it in 3.2 seconds and has a top speed of 205 mph). Although its future is uncertain, the R8 hails from a racecar lineage. The Audi R8 LMS is a GT3-spec racecar

Spring 2018

that competed in 2017 at Le Mans 24 Hours and Daytona 24 Hours and shares half its parts with the street-legal quad of R8s. In addition to bragging rights, having a real time– tested set of racing parts proves a durability other supercars may lack. Imagine this: a single car—one transmission, one engine, one set of brakes—racing at breakneck speeds for a full day and night and not just surviving the grueling test but remaining competitive within it. That certainly gives perspective to the actual wear and tear of quotidian driving. Audi offsets the inevitably thirsty, unblown engine with a cylinders-on-demand approach. Equipped with both port and direct injection, the R8 can turn off one cylinder bank while cruising, depending on the amount of throttle. Pedal down, it always roars to life. Garbis is the first to admit that drivers no longer have polarizing personal preferences; most don’t ask for a naturally aspirated engine by name. But, he says, “once they feel that natural building of power and instant throttle response, all they know is they want it.” From $164,900; audiusa.com u

Jim Fets Photography

AUDI R8 V10

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GETAWAYS

ROCK STARS

Paul Thuysbaert

Six design-forward spas, fittingly hewn into the most extraordinary landscapes, offer more than rehab and recovery.

Spring 2018

Anantara Spa at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort in Nizwa, Oman

Spring 2018

Paul Thuysbaert

Anantara Spa at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort NIZWA, OMAN

A 115-room desert oasis perched at 6,560 feet above sea level on the edge of a grand canyon.

The craggy cliffs and shrub-speckled terrain of Oman’s Al Hajar Mountains served as both muses and foundations for principal Lotfi Sidirahal and his French-based firm Atelier Pod when designing this exotic escape. Within the spa, transitional indoor-outdoor spaces, walls meticulously bejeweled in the very limestone rock from which the resort was constructed, and artistic stone arrangements connect visitors to their natural surroundings. To add elements of contrast and modernism, Nihaki stone from Morocco was imported for the hammam and dark granite stone for the spa floors. The most spectacular element is arguably the yoga pavilion—a polished, flat surface straddling a stunning precipice. TREATMENT TO TRY During pomegranate harvest in September and October, opt for the 90-minute Revitalizing Pomegranate Journey: a fresh pomegranate and salt body scrub followed by a traditional Arabian massage focusing on pressure points. During February and March, try the 90-minute Rose Rescue Ritual: first a foot massage using locally grown Damask Roses and milk, then a hydration facial using rosescented products, and finally a massage with perfumed rose oil. jabal-akhdar.anantara.com —Paul Rubio

Spring 2018

60 Spring 2018

Left: Celine Chhuon Photography

Six Senses Spa Zil Pasyon

FÉLICITÉ ISLAND, SEYCHELLES

New private island retreat with 30 sprawling villas. The geography of the Seychelles’ inner islands reflects the last remaining landscapes of 75-million-year-old supercontinent Gondwana. Otherworldly granite boulders and multi-hued stone slabs are strewn across the archipelago blanketed in white sands, verdant jungles, and Popsicle-blue waters. In creating the spa for the Six Senses, the sole development on Félicité Island, the brand’s architecture and design team alongside Richard Hywel Evans of London-based Studio RHE honored the dramatic surrounds. Among 19,000 square feet of brown, pink, and black granite boulders, five treatment suites, a reception area, a yoga pavilion, and a wet area are etched into and on top of the rocks. To reach the Ocean Villa treatment suite, first cross a hanging bridge sandwiched between towering boulders and then navigate a natural cave. The understated amalgam of glass and wood looks out to 180-degree views of the Indian Ocean. Alternatively, the Floating Villa treatment suite is cast atop a large rock and cantilevered over the ocean, and the all-glass Rock Villa boasts an all-stone outdoor shower on the edge of a cliff.

Celine Chhuon Photography

TREATMENT TO TRY Organic skincare brand Terres d’Afrique created five journeys for the spa, each exclusive to the corresponding spa villa. The Ocean Journey at the Ocean Villa combines acupressure, reflexology, aromatherapy, and muscle penetration using crystal balls and traditional handwork. sixsenses.com —P.R. w

Spring 2018

YUCATÁN, MEXICO A 40-room retreat on 750 acres in the middle of a Mayan forest.

The spa here was designed around—of all things—a sinkhole. Murky and green, the spot, according to architect Jorge Borja, is the heart of the property. The collapsed cenote, one of thousands on the Yucatán Peninsula, is considered a sacred site and source of restoration for the body and soul. Mayans believed cenotes to be portals to the subconscious and afterlife, and a way to communicate with their gods. At Chablé, most of the 15 minimalist, standalone treatment rooms look out over the sacred place. “The intention of the treatment rooms was to feel like they existed before as part of the trees, or tree houses, all without tearing down a single tree,” explains Borja. The 32,000-square-foot facility, complete with a state-of-theart gym and hydrotherapy circuit (vapor steam room, dry sauna, salt room, Jacuzzi, and cool plunge pool), makes the most of the temperate climate, with many outdoor seating areas, secluded nooks for meditation, and a large, cement shell where guests consult the spa’s shaman. TREATMENT TO TRY Following a consultation, spa-goers are directed to a three-hour Spa Journey to address their individual needs. The Fountain of Youth Journey begins at the water’s edge of the restorative cenote and continues in a Flotarium tank. Then a salt scrub is followed with a lymphatic drainage massage and aromatherapy ritual. Body, beauty, and ceremonial rituals can also be booked à la carte. chableresort.com —Rima Suqi

Spring 2018

Alfredo Azar

Chablé Spa

Asilia Spa at Jabali Ridge

RUAHA NATIONAL PARK, TANZANIA New safari camp hidden among gigantic boulders and elephant and lion haunts. Tanzania’s largest national park—roughly the size of New Jersey—is the country’s least-known protected area. The park lacked a solid safari lodge to lure high-end travelers until the eight-suite Asilia Jabali Ridge opened in September 2017. Among Ruaha’s prolific wildlife and boulder-and-baobab-dotted landscapes, a striking spa is cast across the apex of a rocky outcrop and sheltered by granite boulders. Open-air treatment areas situate spa-goers among the songs of African nature as dexterous therapists lure them to a sleepy state of relaxation. A word to the wise: Sleep with one eye open—Ruaha houses one-tenth of the world’s lion population and visiting prides in excess of 20 are nothing out of the ordinary. TREATMENT TO TRY Work out kinks from bumpy, exhilarating game drives with a 90-minute African Wood Massage. The deep-tissue treatment incorporates heated wood instruments and nourishing shea butter. asiliaafrica.com —P.R. w

Spring 2018

MAHÉ, SEYCHELLES

Sixty-seven tree house villas, each with a pool and generous indoor/outdoor living spaces.

64 Spring 2018

TREATMENT TO TRY The primordial coco de mer (or “coconut of the sea”) palm is endemic to two high-rising, mid-oceanic granite islands in the Seychelles, bearing fruit weighing more than 50 pounds and harboring erotic-shaped seeds recorded as the largest in the plant kingdom. Experience the legends of this plant’s healing and aphrodisiac powers through the 150-minute Coco de Mer treatment, which includes a coco de mer body scrub, body mask, and massage (with coco de mer body butter, of course). fourseasons.com —P.R. w

Ken Seet

The Spa at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

Built into the tiered, high-rising hillside encircling Petite Anse Bay, the layout of the Four Seasons is like a U-shaped amphitheater. Featuring the bay as the stage, tree house villas fill in the main seating area with the spa as the box seats. The spa’s five glass-and-wood pavilions enjoy a prime bird’s-eye view from a granite outcrop overlooking lush jungle and brilliant blue waters. In several treatment rooms, exposed granite composes the interior and exterior walls, framing the rooms themselves plus the outdoor tubs and rain showers. Interior designers from Singapore-based Hirsch Bedner Associates elevated the rock theme further by furnishing the space with pebbleclad relaxation chairs and low-lying stone tables. The extreme popularity of the spa and the greater resort has prompted the Four Seasons brand to deliver an encore: On March 1, Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island debuted, delivering an equally exciting paradise within the coralline beauty of the Outer Islands.

IN SEARCH OF SPECIAL? YOUâ€™VE FOUND IT. Visit vip.luxuryretreats.com to get help planning your next vacation.

Eden Rock Spa by Ligne St Barth

SAINT JEAN BAY, SAINT BARTHÉLEMY Posh, red-roofed stronghold since the 1950s, surrounding an idyllic white-sand beach.

TREATMENT TO TRY Escape from the island scene with the 60-minute St Barth Eden Flower therapy, a relaxation-focused massage designed exclusively for the hotel by Ligne (read: specialized massage techniques and strokes), using gardenia-infused and -scented products. oetkercollection.com—P.R. u

Spring 2018

oméo Balancourt

In the wake of Hurricane Irma in September 2017, Eden Rock will unveil its refreshed and renewed (yet familiar) self in late 2018. In early 2017 the famed resort moved beyond en suite spa treatments and debuted two proper spa suites with prime views of Saint Jean Bay. These spacious treatment areas were, in fact, transformations of ocean-view guest rooms molded into the base of the hyaloclastite volcanic rock from which Eden Rock garners its name. According to current reconstruction plans, the resort (inclusive of its spa suites) will retain its signature haute beehive aesthetic, with guest rooms and amenities etched into the grooves and crowning the outer layers of the iconic quartzite bluff. The spa will keep its exclusive partnership with prestigious local beauty brand Ligne St Barth.

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ÂŠ2018 Ojai Valley Inn

FASHION

On him: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA suit, $2,995, and shirt, $395; zegna.us On her: BOTTEGA VENETA trench coat, $2,700, bodysuit, $3,740, and belt, $680; bottegaveneta.com ROBERTO COIN hoops, $1,950; us.robertocoin.com

Weekend VIBES 68

Spring 2018

CHANNEL â€™70s HIP WITH PATTERNS, COLOR, AND SPORTY THROWBACKS. Photography DEAN ISIDRO Styling KATIE MOSSMAN

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TORY SPORT vest, $188, shirt, $168, and skirt, $198; torysport.com JENNIFER FISHER hoops, $395; jenniferfisher.com G/FORE glove, $35; gfore.com

Spring 2018

On him: LACOSTE polo, $90; lacoste.com RALPH LAUREN trousers, $100; mrporter.com NIKE golf shoes, $180; nike.com PUMA sunglasses, $159; puma-eye.com On her: DRIES VAN NOTEN cardigan, $565, button down, $640, and shorts, $405; barneys.com BRIONI sunglasses, $580; brioni.com G/FORE glove, $35; gfore.com

Spring 2018

TOMMY HILFIGER polo, $130; tommy.com BERLUTI trousers, $810; berluti.com ULYSSES NARDIN watch, $6,900; ulysses-nardin.com FOOT JOY golf glove, $18; footjoy.com PUMA sunglasses, $99; puma-eye.com

Spring 2018

TOM FORD shirt, $1,390, shorts, $1,190, and jacket, $2,950; tomford.com

Spring 2018

HARTFORD ALTERNATIVE CLASSICS shirt, $240, and shorts, $185; en.hartford.fr GIORGIO ARMANI sunglasses, $325; armani.com 76

Spring 2018

EMILIO PUCCI bra, $920, shorts, $920, jacket, $3,750, and bag, $1,750; emiliopucci.com ROBERTO COIN hoops, $1,950 and bracelet, $1,400; us.robertocoin.com DAVID YURMAN bracelet, $4,450; davidyurman.com ALAIA sunglasses, $540; alaia.fr

Spring 2018

BOSS shirt, $325; hugoboss.com LISA MARIE FERNANDEZ swim bottoms, $450; lisamariefernandez.com DAVID YURMAN bracelet, $4,250; davidyurman.com ERIC JAVITS hat, $450; ericjavits.com TORY BURCH beach towel, $118; toryburch.com

Spring 2018

PORTS 1961 shirt, $404, and shorts, $240; ports1961.com MORGENTHAL FREDERICS sunglasses, $535; morgenthalfrederics.com HERMÃˆS watch, $7,650; hermes.com

Spring 2018

SOLID & STRIPED swimsuit, $168; solidandstriped.com

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SANDRO sweater, $280, and pant, $340; us.sandro-paris.com NIKE shoes, $70; nike.com

Spring 2018

PERRY ELLIS jacket, $180; perryellis.com LACOSTE polo, $98, and shoes, price upon request; lacoste.com IZOD shorts, $55, and socks, $13; izod.com BABOLAT tennis racket, $99; babolat.us

LACOSTE sweater, $160, polo, $95, skirt, $90, and sport wristband, $15; lacoste.com

Spring 2018

CELINE blouse, $2,100, skirt, $3,350, and earrings, $670; celine.com SOLID & STRIPED swimsuit top, $78; solidandstriped.com NIKE shoes, $70; nike.com

On him: LACOSTE polo, $98; lacoste.com ORLEBAR BROWN shorts, $245; mrporter.com ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA jacket, $1,495; zegna.us N.HOOLYWOOD shoes, $360; select retailers TOMAS MAIER sunglasses, $240; tomasmaier.com

Spring 2018

On her: MANSUR GAVRIEL shirt, $395; mansurgavriel.com LONGCHAMP skirt, $1,020, and jacket, $1,545; longchamp.com MICHAEL KORS sandals, price upon request; michaelkors.com CELINE hoops, $670; celine.com

ISABEL MARANT bodysuit, $1,360, and jacket, $960; isabelmarant.com

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA suit, $3,395; zegna.us SUNSPEL polo, $125; sunspel.com MORGENTHAL FREDERICS sunglasses, $535; morgenthalfrederics.com

Spring 2018

THEORY jacket, $995; theory.com RICHER POORER pocket tee, $38; richer-poorer.com SALVATORE FERRAGAMO pants, price upon request; ferragamo.com HERMÃˆS watch, $7,650; hermes.com

Spring 2018

DUNDAS dress, $3,920; modaoperandi.com

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NATURE

DIAMOND life The precious stones may last forever, but the mines in which they are excavated do notâ€”making these massive, circular signatures in Earthâ€™s crust marvels to witness for a limited time.

Image courtesy of Rio Tinto Diamonds

by Jennifer Ashton Ryan

90 Spring 2018

Argyle Diamond Mine, Western Australia

Spring 2018

Top Right: Evan Collis; Bottom: Anthony Horth; Blaine Harrington III/Getty Images

illions of years ago when the planet was hotter, violent volcanic eruptions traveling 150 mph shot diamonds from Earth’s upper mantle layer to accessible depths. These carrot-shaped, diamondlittered deposits called kimberlite surface where Earth’s crust is oldest—in countries like India, Africa, Russia, Australia, and Canada. When soil samples or satellites detect such deposits, mining companies go to work, carving enormous, miles-wide circles into the volcanic chimneys. Looking up from the bottom of a mine, the inverted skyscraper is dizzying. Up close, with the plain dirt stripped away, a palm full of rough diamonds can be dazzling. Maybe 50 diamond-bearing kimberlite sites have been discovered since the 1870s. Among the largest, most colorful yields, values have increased tenfold in the past 10 years.

Argyle, Western Australia In the East Kimberley region, aboriginal grandmothers tell stories of escaped barramundi fish scraping their sparkling scales on the hill. Those scales have left an earthen trove. In 2005, the Argyle Diamond Mine Participation Agreement was finalized with the Gija and Miriwoong people, the Traditional Owners of the land on which the Argyle mine is located. Since then more than 800 million carats of rough diamonds have been unearthed. The deposit is considered one of the richest in the world, but the stash is running out. Around 2020, the mine will be depleted and closure activities will commence. Of course, every mine has a lifespan. For thousands of years, India was the holy grail, yielding discoveries since the fourth century B.C. that changed hands along Silk Road trade routes. People believed India was the only source of diamonds on Earth, but by the 18th century, India’s cache ran dry. African

Spring 2018

gems were discovered next, with the Big Hole—the first modern, large-scale mine—operating by 1871. By 1914 that deposit ran dry after giving up more than 14.5 million carats from over 22 million tons of excavated earth. Currently, Argyle produces more than 90 percent of the world’s supply of pink and red diamonds, as well as significant blue-, champagne-, and cognac-colored diamond finds. Through April at the Natural History Museum in Los Angeles, Green Diamonds: Natural Radiance displays the 2.11-carat Argyle Everglow, the largest Fancy Red diamond presented at the Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender. The show’s stones belong to collector David Shara, who says, “Natural fancy color diamonds are bought and sold much like fine art, and carry the same priceless value and cache.” Just .03 percent of diamonds mined annually are pink, and even fewer are red. riotinto.com

Clockwise from far left: The Argyle Pink Jubilee™ diamond, the largest pink rough diamond recovered from Rio Tinto’s Argyle Diamond Mine; Cullinan mine, South Africa; the outback surrounding the Argyle mine, shot by Anthony Horth.

Cullinan, South Africa

Opening April 26 in New York’s Soho neighborhood, at 40 Wooster Street, Mother Earth Kimberley Australia will showcase a new landscape photography series by former Vogue photographer Anthony Horth. An Australian, Horth captured white eucalyptus trees, expanses of red earth, and other natural formations in the outback surrounding the Argyle mine at the request of the mine’s owners, the local indigenous communities of Miriwoong and Gija. The show debuted in December at Abu Dhabi’s Emirates Palace Hotel. The photographs will show at Fairmont Bab Al Bahr Abu Dhabi through April 7 before traveling to the United States. anthonyhorth.com

In 1866, diamonds were discovered along the Orange River when a 15-yearold picked up a transparent rock. Such alluvial deposits were connected to a kimberlite source and, subsequently, De Beers opened the Big Hole mine by 1871. In a few years, South African miners, working by hand with picks and shovels, dug up more diamonds than India had in two millennia. What had been truly rare became attainable for the West and its increasing wealth. In the 1870s and 1880s, South African mines in the Kimberley region produced 95 percent of the world’s diamonds. Cullinan (called The Premier Mine until its centenary celebration in 2003) quickly gained fame when it gave up a 3,105.75-carat rough stone. The 1905 discovery still stands as the largest rough diamond of gem quality ever found. Subsequently, South Africa weathered instability in the first half of the 20th century. Through two World Wars and the Depression, De Beers opened and shuttered mines as demand and prices ebbed and flowed, ultimately stashing away billions of dollars in diamonds to create an artificial shortage and keep prices high. Cullinan has produced more than 750 stones greater than 100 carats and more than a quarter of all the world’s diamonds that are greater than 400 carats. Graff’s 755-carat Golden Jubilee and the 507-carat Cullinan Heritage (sold February 2010 for $35.3 million) also came from Cullinan, which yielded 785,000 carats in 2017. Premier Diamond Tours (diamondtourscullinan.co.za) leads daily visits through Cullinan and surrounding facilities. petradiamonds.com w

Spring 2018

Venetia, South Africa

The world’s sixth-largest diamond mine is in Limpopo Province, where production began with great success in 1992. The mine now produces 40 percent of South Africa’s total diamond production from its 12 kimberlite tubes. As with most diamond mines, the first third of the tube is excavated by open pit. Once the pit narrows, the operation moves underground to excavate the final two-thirds of the pipe. Venetia, with a 31-year expected lifespan and estimated 94 million–carat stash, is expected to go underground by 2021. In 2013, De Beers approved a $2 billion underground expansion that will be in full production by 2025 and should extend the life of the mine to 2046. The project is the single biggest investment in South Africa’s diamond industry ever. debeersgroup.com

Before diamonds were discovered, Botswana was among the poorest countries in Africa. Now it’s among the most prosperous with a fifth of its GDP coming from mining.

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producing country. Journalist Joe Nocera wrote in his 2008 New York Times article “Diamonds Are Forever in Botswana,” “There is no question that the discovery of diamonds was the most important catalyst in Botswana’s economic growth.” Before diamonds were discovered, the country was among the poorest in Africa. Now it’s among the most prosperous, with the healthy realization that (as India’s history shows) diamond caches don’t last forever. Mining for diamonds contributes to a fifth of the GDP of Botswana, which is purposely diversifying its economic growth to the financial services and tourism sectors. An expansion doubled Orapa’s production capacity in 1999, so annual output hovers around 12 million carats with the removal of 20 million tons of ore. Speculation surrounding the close date of Orapa swings between 2028 and 2050. debeersgroup.com

Top Left: Mujahid Safodien/Getty Images

Orapa, Botswana The world’s largest open-pit diamond mine by area has had an impressive run. In 1954 De Beers was the first company to systematically prospect for diamonds in Botswana, and it took a dozen years to turn up anything significant. At the time prospectors used traditional walking methods, collecting soil samples at regular intervals. On the edge of Makgadikgadi Pans and the Kalahari Desert, field geologist Manfred Marx in 1967 radioed the positive result of kimberlite in his samples. That discovery led to finding the world’s second-largest diamond-producing kimberlite pipe. Orapa opened in 1971 at the site of two 93-million-year-old kimberlite pipes converging near the surface. Marx’s discovery kicked off a successful prospecting streak, resulting in the opening of subsequent mines across the country. In 2014, Botswana overtook Russia as the world’s top diamond-

Udachnaya, Russia

Mining rough diamonds dates to the 18th century in Russia and sustained exploration began in the 1930s before being interrupted by WWII. By the 1950s, as prospectors were just beginning to walk Botswana, Russia’s frozen tundra was being discovered as the world’s new diamond treasure box. In 1955, the Daldyn-Alakit kimberlite field was discovered just two days after the discovery of Russia’s famed Mir mine. It took prospectors one day and about 90 minutes to locate two parallel kimberlite pipes that meet each other near the surface. Hence the mine’s name Udachnaya, which means “lucky.” The location just below the Arctic Circle may be fortunate, but it is by no means easy. Winter lasts eight months a year and temperatures fall to -76 degrees Fahrenheit. As mining company Alrosa’s flagship operation, the mine produced more than half of the diamonds found in Western Yakutia. It remained the deepest open-pit mine in the world until 2011 and by 2014 shuttered its open pit, which had produced $80 billion worth of diamonds. When its underground operation reaches full capacity in 2019, the mine’s production will be among the highest in the world at a projected 5 million carats annually. alsosa.ru w

Karowe, Botswana

A relatively new mine, Karowe has put Botswana on the map for yielding some of the largest diamonds in the world. Fully commissioned in 2012, it gave up the white, 1,109-carat Lesedi le Rona diamond (see “Big Rock,” page 97) within three years. At first too big to sell, the diamond did not change hands following its first public auction in 2016. In September 2017, Laurence Graff took ownership. Graff holds the world’s greatest collection of large stones, primed for his high-style jewelry designs. The Eternal Twins, a pair of earrings fashioned from mirror-image Flawless 50-carat diamonds found at Karowe are currently for sale (see “Hot Now,” page 98). Vancouver-based Lucara Diamond expects to operate Karowe until 2026, unearthing around 280,000 carats annually. As of 2017, the mine has yielded 1.8 million total carats, generating $1.02 billion. lucaradiamond.com

Spring 2018

Diavik, Arctic Circle, Canada Diavik produces about 7 million carats annually and is known for high-quality stones that are small in size. (The 2005 discovery of the 187.7-carat Diavik Foxfire diamond, one of the largest rough, gem-quality diamonds ever produced in Canada, notwithstanding.) For much of the year, the subarctic environment and 20-square-mile area are accessible only by a seasonal ice highway or small aircraft. The operation is completely off the grid, supplying its own power and wind plants. Its 1,100 employees live and work on the island, predominately on a fly-in/fly-out roster. riotinto.com

Left: Dave Brosha Photography

Canada was not considered an important location of gemstones until 1990. Yielding some of miningâ€™s most striking visuals, mining at Diavik is confined to a small island surrounded by Lac de Gras. Retention dikes and careful oversight keep the walls of the two, narrow openpit mines from flooding or destabilizing. Kimberlite here is 2.5 billion years old and spread among four tubes originally surveyed in 1992. Since the mine began production in 2003, it has transitioned underground and is expected to operate through 2024. Despite incredibly harsh environments,

Spring 2018

BIG ROCK

Recent finds are measuring up.

LESEDI LE RONA In November 2015, north-central Botswana’s Karowe mine yielded the second-largest, gemquality rough diamond ever found. But in 2016 when Sotheby’s put the 1,109-carat hunk up for auction with a $70 million reserve price, the highest bidder went to $61 million. Owner Lucara Diamond didn’t sell and instead spent the following year negotiating with British jeweler Laurence Graff, who eventually bought the tennis-ball-sized stone in September 2017 for $53 million. Graff had bought what’s believed to be a piece of Lesedi Le Rona, a 373.72-carat diamond, in May of last year for $17.5 million. Graff ’s team will scan and make a computer model of the stone to determine how best to cut and polish it. graffdiamonds.com

LETSENG’S 910 CARATS Graff Diamonds is the biggest shareholder in Gem Diamond, which uncovered a 910-carat diamond in January. About the size of two golf balls, the stone is the largest recovery from South Africa’s Letseng mine and the fifth-largest diamond ever recovered. The find stands among 68 of the 100-plus-carat stones found at Letseng since 2008.

THE PEACE DIAMOND In March 2017 in Sierra Leone, an egg-sized, 709-carat rough diamond was discovered by artisanal miners. Laurence Graff surfaced at Rapaport Group’s December auction and made the winning bid for $6.5 million. peacediamond.com

MEYA PROSPERITY DIAMOND Once again, in December 2017, Laurence Graff swooped in for a 476-carat rough stone found in Sierra Leone’s Kono District by Meya Mining. w

Spring 2018

HOT NOW

High-style jewelry pieces featuring large diamonds are worth the investment. 1. THE ETERNAL TWINS Mirror-image Flawless 50 carat diamonds from the Karowe mine were cut from a single stone and fashioned by Graff into a pair of striking drop statement earrings. graffdiamonds.com

2. ORCHID RING Surrounding the centerpiece brilliant-cut, 15.33-carat diamond are 26 yellow and 64 pink diamonds, plus 211 brilliant-cut white diamonds weighing 2.75 carats in total. anna-hu.com

3. THE GRAFF SUNFLOWER The center of this diamond bracelet is the 107.46-carat Fancy Yellow diamond dubbed the Graff Sunflower. graffdiamonds.com 4. DIAMOND RING The pear-shaped diamond ring totals 40.84 carats, including the central 38.13-carat D Flawless stone surrounded by a diamond pavé band. graffdiamonds.com

5. SALUT D’AMOUR EARRINGS Anchoring this set are two large briolettecut diamonds weighing 18.66 carats and 21.43 carats, and each side of the earrings are crowned by either a 4.27-carat pink diamond or a 5.07-carat white diamond. anna-hu.com

CTF PINK STAR Sotheby’s put up this 59.6-carat Fancy Vivid Pink, Internally Flawless diamond in April. The sale set the highest price for any work ever sold at auction in Asia, and the world auction record for the sale of any diamond or jewel. The final selling price: $71.2 million. sothebys.com

Pricey inPINK

Sotheby’s saw record-breaking successes for colored diamonds last year.

LOT 356 FANCY LIGHT PINK In November 2017, a Harry Winston ring circa 1970 sold for $12.8 million. The stone, a step-cut Fancy, light pink diamond, weighs 33.63 carats. The sale set the world auction record for a Fancy light pink diamond. sothebys.com u 98

Spring 2018

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ONE PLACE, TWO WAYS

PORTLAND

For Wine Lovers 1. Big Table Farm Owners Clare Carver and Brian Marcy moved 12 years ago from Napa Valley to this rustic farmhouse off the beaten track. On 70 acres they raise animals and vegetables and produce a bargain whole cluster pinot noir. Wine Spectator gave their 2015 Sunnyside Vineyard pinot 93 points. bigtablefarm.com

4. White Rose Estate A 10-acre jewel in the heart of the Dundee Hills, the winery has perhaps the most spectacular view in the valley. Taste estate-grown pinot noirs in a cozy building with no windows. Downstairs, watch workers dressed in white shirts and brown overalls squeeze grapes the old-fashioned way. whiteroseestate.com

2. Flâneur Wines At this mountainside winery, tastings are held in a rustic barn or an open-air structure where guests can sit on the rooftop to enjoy sweeping views of the valley. A massive grain elevator in wine country capital Carlton, Oregon, will soon open as a third tasting room. flaneurwines.com

5. Tendril Wine Cellars The attraction here is not the location but the way tastings are conducted. Veteran winemaker Tony Rynders (shown) has a master’s degree in enology and viticulture from UC Davis; he has designed a tasting menu where each wine is a course. Guests may go from a light white pinot to more bold bottles during their visit. tendrilwines.com

3. Archery Summit This grand estate hides a spectacular, wineclub-only tasting room inside its wine caves. Unlike anything in the region, the natural caves are modeled after ones in Burgundy with consistent temperatures ranging between 55 and 59 degrees Fahrenheit. Wine Enthusiast gave five of Archery’s 2014/2015 vintages ratings between 92 and 93 points. archerysummit.com

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6. STAY: The Allison Inn & Spa In the town of Newberg, a 45-minute drive from Portland, the 85-room resort boasts an awardwinning wine list at its farm-to-table, fine dining Jory Restaurant. The indoor pool opens to a garden and 500 original artworks adorn rooms and suites, all with gas fireplaces. From $420; theallison.com

All images by Evan McGlinn

AN HOUR’S DRIVE FROM THE CITY, WILLAMETTE VALLEY IS THE PROMISED LAND OF AMERICAN PINOT NOIR.

For Foodies INNOVATION AND AWARDS ARE THE RULE MORE THAN THE EXCEPTION IN DOWNTOWN. 1. Ox Restaurant Chefs Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton won the James Beard Award this year for Best Chefs in the Northwest. Inspired by wood-fired grilling traditions of Argentina, the food also follows the culinary heritages of Spain, France, and Italy. Must-have dish (shown): fresh clam chowder with smoked marrow bone, green onion, and jalapeño. oxpdx.com 2. Langbaan Behind a fake bookcase, this gem hides in the back of another Thai restaurant called PaaDee. The prix fixe tasting menu changes monthly and reservations for one of two nightly seatings (Thursday–Sunday) are a must. Portland’s Oregonian newspaper called it the finest Thai restaurant in America. langbaanpdx.com 3. Tusk The motto here is “Locally Sourced. Aggressively Seasonal.” If it’s raining (which it likely will be), come for the big windows and bright interior design. Book brunch to try the Dutch baby, served with apple, date syrup, whipped cream, and candied pepitas, and the cypriot (shown): halloumi, grilled merguez sausage, fried eggs, olives, and salad. tuskpdx.com

4. Apizza Scholls Put on the map by Anthony Bourdain years ago, this East Portland bar has some of the best pizza in the Pacific Northwest. Order a house pie and play Donkey Kong, Tempest, and other vintage video games. apizzascholls.com 5. Kachka Portlanders flock to this wood-paneled, sparse, and dimly lit Russian hole-in-the-wall to dine on such dishes as rabbit in a clay pot, Siberian pelmeni, and herring under a fur coat: a layered salad comprising herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayonnaise, and eggs. No surprise, there is an extensive vodka menu, which is a perfect complement to the $280 caviar tasting. kachkapdx.com 6. STAY: The Nines, a Luxury Collection Hotel Built downtown in 1909, this was originally the flagship store and headquarters of retailer Meier & Frank. Since 2008 the 331-room hotel on the building’s top nine floors has become a dining destination. Rooftop restaurant Departure is more South Beach than Portland with an accessible Asian menu. Find steakhouse Urban Farmer Restaurant in the eighth-floor atrium lobby. From $315; thenines.com w

—Evan McGlinn Spring 2018 101

For Classicists THERE’S A REASON IT’S CALLED THE ETERNAL CITY. 1. Gammarelli This clerical outfitter in the shadow of the Pantheon is a longtime papal favorite, but the secular can also shop here. Stroll into the fusty store, stacked with boxes, and staffers will immediately assume you’re looking for one thing: ultra-soft, fine-gauge cotton socks, produced for cardinals in two lengths (knee- and ankle-high) and four colors: scarlet, purple, white, and black. gammarelli.com 2. Caffè Sant’Eustachio The baristas at this tiny, much-lauded café work furiously, their hands hidden behind a mirrored screen: Rumor is they add a pinch of baking soda to whip up extra crema. Watch out for impostors nearby, keen to siphon off business from unsuspecting visitors. The real café has egg-yolk-yellow bags of coffee beans piled high in the window for sale. santeustachioilcaffe.com 3. La Pergola Chef Heinz Beck’s masterful cooking underpins its three Michelin stars. A must-try is his delightful riff on carbonara: pasta filled with barely cooked egg yolk, cheese, and bacon that burst with flavor. Perched on a hill outside the city, the restaurant keeps its best tables out on the terrace. romecavalieri.com/la-pergola

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4. Ai Monasteri The same family has owned and run this oddball shop since the 1890s. Imagine Aladdin’s cave filled with tinctures, soaps, lotions, and foodstuffs like honey, all of them made by Italian men of the cloth (hence the name). There’s also wine, such as the sweet vin santo, and liqueurs. aimonasteri.it 5. Colosseum Rome’s most photographed ruin has just undergone a major renovation funded by cobbler Tod’s: The five-year program included everything from shoring up the grouting to opening the upper levels of the building for the first time since antiquity. Reserve in advance for the chance to join a small group clambering to the top, and be rewarded with superb views of the city. coopculture.it 6. STAY: Palazzo Odescalchi This 10,674-square-foot, fourbedroom palace near Trevi Fountain opened last September. Owner Princess Maria Pace Odescalchi spent two years renovating the 17th-century jewel-box with Murano chandeliers and Renaissance tapestries. Butlers access the princess’ personal contacts to book tours and tables. Price upon request; info@uniquepropertiesandevents.com

1. Carmine Flamminio/Alamy Stock Photo 3. Antonio Saba 4. Dorling Kindersley Itd/Alamy Stock Photo 5. Justin Racinowski 6. Massimo Listri

ROME

For Trendsetters 1. Musacchio&Ianniello 3. Enrico Di Giamberardino 4. Daniela @Senza_Panna 5. Fabrizio Troiani/Alamy Stock Photo

THE ROMAN COOLNESS QUOTIENT IS RAMPING UP. 1. MAXXI This sinewy, Zaha Hadid–designed museum on the northern outskirts of the city is aimed at the 21st century (hence the punning Roman numeral name) and intended as a showcase for art and architecture, whether via its permanent collection or its traveling shows. The piazza and playground in front are favorites of neighborhood families. fondazionemaxxi.it

4. Neve di Latte With two outposts in the city, this Slow Food– inspired gelateria focuses on organic fruit, biodynamic milk, and locally grown ingredients. Try the pistachio, and you’ll never want that flavor anywhere else again. There’s also a selection of wacky but tasty seasonal flavors, whether persimmon or barrel-aged balsamic. facebook.com/nevedilatteromaflaminio

2. Caffè Propaganda Italians were cocktail pioneers—they invented the Negroni, after all—but the craft mixology scene, so lively in London and New York, has lagged behind here. This new bar, a short walk from the Colosseum, is changing that—largely thanks to genial head barkeep Patrick Pistolesi. Perch on a stool and ask him to create a custom concoction. caffepropaganda.it

5. Porto Fluviale An unprepossessing warehouse close to Ostiense train station was reborn as a 10,000-square-foot temple to gastronomy, with raw brick walls and reclaimed wooden fixtures. It contains a collection of eating and drinking spots, but the best feature is the dual-oven pizzeria, which dishes out both thin-crust Roman-style pizza and its rival from Naples, which has a doughier edge. Dare to decree one better than the other. portofluviale.com

3. Shop in Monti A once-savvy central district has become the city’s coolest place to browse, especially along via del Boschetto. Look for brightly colored womenswear at Kokoro (shown; kokoroshop.it), silk bags at Le Nou +39.06.3105.6339, bold jewelry at Ashanti Galleria (ashantigalleria.com), or sneakers and tees at Super super-space.com.

6. STAY: D.O.M. A former Claretian monastery in the Centro Storico close to the river, this boutique hotel features 18 rooms and suites with a maximalist exuberance to its décor (think dark walls, Venetian mirrors, and plenty of velvet). From $255; domhotelroma.com w —Mark Ellwood

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ICELAND

For Environmentalists EXPERIENCE WILDLY EVOLVED LANDSCAPES, VIBRANTLY HUED VISTAS, AND 600-PLUS HOT SPRINGS.

2. Extreme Fly-Fishing Deplar Farm in Iceland’s remote northern Fijot Valley facilitates championship fishing for Atlantic salmon in luxurious solitude with waterfall-dotted cliffs as a backdrop. Expect chef-prepared dinners, locally brewed craft beers, house-made goodies, and massages throughout the all-inclusive experience. From $2,539 per person; elevenexperience.com 3. Motorcycle Touring Ayres Adventures’ 11-day, 1,650-mile expedition via BMW F700 GS allows for spectacular scenery, local cuisine, and the option to soak in steamy hot springs after a day in the saddle. Explore massive glaciers in Iceland’s remote highlands and other awe-inspiring sites August 25–September 4. From $8,995 per person; ayresadventures.com

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4. Game of Thrones Tour See the beautiful yet desolate landscapes where scenes from the HBO hit series were filmed. The eight-hour Traveling Viking itinerary includes the Haunted Forest, Grjótagjá (Jon Snow and Ygritte’s love-nest cave; shown), and Lake Mývatn (the land beyond the Wall). Many tour leaders worked as extras in the show. From $218 per person; ttv.is 5. Circumnavigate the Island The 107-cabin Ocean Diamond is nimble enough to navigate some of Iceland’s rarely explored fjords. During the 10-day jaunt, board a Zodiac for whale watching and play 18 holes of golf in a volcano crater in the Westman Islands. From $1,650 per person; icelandprocruises.com 6. STAY: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon Iceland’s world-famous attraction launches a 62-suite hotel in April. Among the geothermal waterfront accommodations is a spa carved into an 800-year-old lava flow and a lagoon-view restaurant. In the top suites, a butler keeps track of your wellness itinerary and makes recommendations for dry or steam saunas and in-water treatments. From $920; bluelagoon.com

1. Alysa Pakkidis 3. John Jesson 4. Umkehrer/iStock

1. Fire and Ice Tour Explore volcanoes and ice caves, walk on glaciers, and visit puffin rookeries on a custom GeoEx itinerary. Dine in telegenic rural restaurants whose kitchens forage close to home; local guides know the back roads to hidden lakes and waterfalls. From $1,400 per day, per person, based on four travelers; geoex.com

1. Asgeir Helgi 2. Mihai-Bogdan Lazar/Shutterstock 3. Sigurjón Ragnar 4. Anthony Bacigalupo

For Urbanists FREE-SPIRITED REYKJAVÍK FEATURES FLAVOR-FORWARD FOOD AND AROUND-THE-CLOCK NIGHTLIFE. 1. Secret Solstice Festival Party like a rock star all weekend under the midnights sun. Buy one of three $180,000 Package of the Gods tickets to this world-renowned music festival June 21–24 and you and a friend could enjoy complete backstage access with the likes of Slayer and Skream and travel in chauffered cars and helicopters to the world’s only party inside a glacier. More modestly priced tickets for a more modest experience are also available. From $390 for a VIP pass; secretsolstice.is 2. Pub Crawls Around midnight on Fridays and Saturdays, locals cut loose at the clubs and bars lining downtown’s narrow streets. Most places stay open until 4 a.m. At sunrise, end up at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, a red-and-white hot dog stand near the harbor, for oniontopped, rémoulade-drenched foot-longs. bbp.is 3. Local Beer Bryggjan Brugghús is Reykjavík’s only brew pub, located in a former fish processing plant by the old harbor. Order a hoppy IPA and a generous bowl of steamed mussels. The brewery’s beer school offers an educational 60-minute course that includes plenty of drinking and eating. Live jazz on Sundays. bryggjanbrugghus.is

4. New Nordic Cuisine Recently awarded Iceland’s first Michelin star, Dill features hyper-seasonal dinners that might include a delicate smoked haddock or wildflower honey–glazed pork belly served on hand-thrown plates from local potter Postulina. The 23-seat, wood-and-stone space evokes a fisherman’s cottage. dillrestaurant.is 5. Viking-Themed Pub Come to Mjölnir MMA for the kickboxing and stop by its Drukkstofa Óðins bar for a shot of Brennivin (the licorice-flavored schnapps known locally as Black Death). In the heart of the city at one of the biggest MMA gyms in the world, the mustsee pub features carved wooden décor, a nod to Iceland’s axe-wielding forefathers, that transports you to another era. mjolnir.is 6. STAY: Sandhotel A cluster of historic art deco townhouses were reimagined last year as a modern boutique hotel. Original shops on the first floor include a fifth-generation bakery, so the smell of just-outof-the-oven cinnamon buns wafts up to 52 cozy guest rooms accented with art from the country’s best-known contemporary artists. From $340, including breakfast; sandhotel.is u —Irene Rawlings Spring 2018 105

TRENDS On him: SACAI T-shirt, $350; mrporter.com BASSIKE pant, $340; bassike.com WEISS watch, $1,850; weisswatchcompany.com L.G.R sunglasses, $324; lgrworld.com On her: DRA jumpsuit, $168; draclothing.com EF COLLECTION diamond choker necklace, $3,525, diamond jumbo oval ring, $2,150, diamond baguette signet ring, $695, and gold heart signet ring, $495; efcollection.com VANESSA MOONEY Giovanni gold necklace, $64, and Marcella & Gold crystal charm necklace, $79; vanessamooney.com SMITH + MARA Pave diamond unicorn cuff, $7,260; smithandmara.com JENNIFER FISHER small globe cuff, $795; jenniferfisherjewelry.com LUV AJ Capri wire hoops, $35; luvaj.com KAREN WALKER sunglasses, $270; karenwalker.com FREYA bag, $610; thefreyabrand.com

Photography FRANKIE BATISTA Styling TAYLOR JACOBSON

THE GOLDEN STATE'S INDIE FASHION TRENDS CONTINUE TO MAKE EASY, BREEZY STATEMENTS OF THEIR OWN.

California DREAMING

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by Stacie Stukin

hile some West Coast fashion enthusiasts closely monitor the latest from designers such as Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons, and Céline, California by its very geography is thousands of miles away from New York’s fashion fray. That physical and psychological distance has long liberated the Golden State’s fashion aesthetic in which surf, sand, indoor-outdoor living, art, music, and celebrating its outsider status are more influential than what happens on the runway. With little care for such formal fashion spotting, California’s casual, breezy style is a hallmark of the independent designers who today define an understated, idiosyncratic voice where high and low clash with designer denim, diamonds, and, if the mood strikes, a statement handbag. “Being from California means I don’t have to try so hard with my style,” says Sara Smith, who co-founded Smith + Mara (smithandmara.com) jewelry with her college friend, Mara Rothbart, also a Southern Californian. “We dress the way we want with confidence. It’s not about logos or proving who we are with our fashion. We wear jeans, T-shirts, and jewelry every day. Our motto: Make it simple but significant.” Their innovative Skimmer earring—it literally skims horizontally across the earlobe—launched their company, and even its name intonates California, harkening the swoosh of a wave or the slalom of a skateboard. With designs for those with multiple piercings who like to layer and mix and match, Smith + Mara eschews large, chunky pieces because, as Rothbart says, “We want the woman to wear the jewelry, not the jewelry to wear the woman.”

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On her, far left: LUISA BECCARIA top and shorts, price upon request; luisabeccaria.it LUV AJ Amalfi tube hoops in silver, $55; luvaj.com L.G.R sunglasses, $360; lgrworld.com On him, top far left: FREENOTE shirt, $100; freenotecloth.com BASSIKE pant, $295; bassike.com NOAH WAXMAN shoes, $345; noahwaxman.com WEISS watch, $1,850; weisswatchcompany.com AMBSN hat, $32; ambsn.com GARRETT LEIGHT sunglasses, $340; garrettleight.com On her, bottom left: FOR LOVE & LEMONS bustier, $121, and skirt, $144; forloveandlemons.com URBAN OUTFITTERS socks, $12; urbanoutfitters.com MOXI roller skates, $149; moxirollerskates.com On him, top left: BASSIKE pant, $295; bassike.com OFFICINA SLOWEAR sneakers, $490; slowear.com GARRETT LEIGHT sunglasses, $140; garrettleight.com Left: SACAI bag, $1,690; barneys.com

After all, asserting individual style without feeling an obligation to own the requisite Cartier Love bracelet feels more authentic, especially in a state where nature surrounds and inspires. For Clare Vivier, who founded Silver Lake–based Clare V. (clarev.com) in 2008, California’s landscape—its open spaces and yearround sunshine—infuses her lifestyle brand, which took off when her simple, elegant leather clutches became every LA woman’s “it” bag. “There’s a lightness and an esprit to the collection that’s directly related to how we live here,” she says. “We spend a lot of time outside, and I like to think we put a piece of sunshine into all of our designs.” Like a seed coaxed to maturity by that California sun, Vivier has since opened brick-and-mortar shops and expanded the line to include handbags, clothing, and even wallpaper. Vivier believes California designers’ outsider status spawns their creativity. “We use that to our advantage. We have wonderful sources for manufacturing and craftspeople and since we’re not involved with mainstream fashion in New York, we don’t feel the stress, so we can express our independence,” she says. Much of that independent spirit transcends fashion, and designers like Vivier mine from the glamorous trail of artists who came before. Writers like Joan Didion, whose iconic style was recently immortalized in a series of Saint Laurent advertisements, and pop artists like Ed Ruscha absorbed California as subject matter and transformed their vision into a unique, place-specific expression. Today, California’s independent fashion has a robust flair reminiscent of the Golden State’s fashion renaissance of the 1960s and ’70s. Who can forget Rudi Gernreich’s topless “monokini,” made legendary by model Peggy Moffitt with her striking Vidal Sassoon asymmetrical haircut? Gernreich’s 1960s counterculture proclivities had nothing to do with hippies. Instead he played with notions of avant-garde minimalism that incorporated bold, psychedelic colors. Simultaneously, Greek-born James Galanos designed more conventionally lauded haute couture for women such as Jackie Kennedy, Nancy Reagan, Marilyn Monroe, and Grace Kelly using silks, chiffon, ribbons, and taffeta to tell a completely different, luxurious story. w

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Left: NOON BY NOOR dress, $625; noonbynoor.com SOPHIE MONET earrings, $110; sophiemonetjewelry.com AMBSN hat, $28; ambsn.com Top, right: MARK CROSS bag, $3,995; modaoperandi.com MORGENTHAL FREDERICS sunglasses, $565; morgenthalfrederics.com Center right: OFF WHITE hat, $255; off---white.com Far right: RAQUEL ALLEGRA blazer, $575, and pant, $425; raquelallegra.com ARE YOU AM I top, $119; areyouami.com

Fred Segal opened his first West Hollywood Denim Bar in the late 1960s, and by the ’70s, when rock ‘n’ roll and denim were on the rise, his designs attracted celebrity clientele including the Beatles, The Jackson Five, and Farrah Fawcett. Hip-huggers and wide legs may have been the rage, but skateboard culture also began to sweep the state as slouchy cords and striped T-shirts became de rigueur due to the popularity of the Venice skateboard crew Dogtown and Z-Boys, who wore out their Vans sneakers (made in Anaheim) in record time as they ripped their way through pools and pipes. Andrew Brodrick, who co-founded Freenote Cloth (freenotecloth.com) with his brother Matt, says surf and skate cultures play a big role in his lifestyle (he moved to San Juan Capistrano from Florida for a job and the surf), but the brand’s aesthetic is driven more by Western influence and vintage w

Right: STAUD top, $145; staud.clothing.com GOLDEN GOOSE DELUXE BRAND pant, $405; goldengoosedeluxe brand.com CLARE V. tote, $199; clarev.com KAREN WALKER sunglasses, $270; karenwalker.com

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reproduction. “We like to say we operate from a place where the dusty West meets the ocean.” That means an excellent pair of jeans sewn in Los Angeles out of Japanese denim à la James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, or a carefully styled denim jacket with high-quality hardware that references the Rancho past of California’s Western horse culture. For designer Raquel Allegra (raquelallegra.com), who was born in Northern California and spent a big part of her teenage years roaming the color explosion of glassblown pipes and tie-dye T-shirts on Berkeley’s Telegraph Avenue, wearing track suits in homage to her P-Funk musical inclinations, the California influence is engrained in her self-named line. “California is casual, and I tend to layer in my collections—silk, cashmere, terry, and fleece all in a palette that we take from nature,” she says. “Take the coastline, water interacting with sand and rock, nature is a big constant.” A chic, relaxed vision defines her designs, which emphasize an artisan mark of the hand seen in details like a lightly washed silk tie-dye or the ripped hem of a baggy pair of linen pants. Ultimately, she creates clothes for women she’d like to hang out with. “Think Stevie Nicks or Joni Mitchell,” she says. “Badass women who aren’t worried what people think but also want comfort and to express their individuality.” u

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Top left: COS shirt, $115; cosstores.com RVCA shorts, $50; rvca.com LE SPECS sunglasses, $79; nordstrom.com PANTOFOLA D’ORO shoes, $278; pantofoladoro.com On her, bottom left: RAQUEL ALLEGRA dress, $425; raquelallegra.com ANDERSON belt, $185; bloomingdales.com CLARE V. bag, $325; clarev.com On him, bottom left: STEVE ALAN shirt, $188; stevealan.com JIJIBABA pant, $242; doverstreetmarket.com L.G.R sunglasses, $456; lgrworld.com

On her, left: STAUD top, $235, and pant, $250; staud. clothing.com SOPHIE MONET earrings, $120; sophiemonet jewelry.com GARRETT LEIGHT sunglasses, $365; garrett leight.com SMYTHSON tote, $850; smythson.com Bottom left: WEISS watch $1,850; weisswatchcompany.com PARAVEL passport wallet, $75; tourparavel.com GARRETT LEIGHT sunglasses, $175; garrett leight.com Bottom right: WANT LES ESSENTIELS backpack, $595; wantlesessentiels.com MORGENTHAL FREDERICS WEBSTER sunglasses, $395; morgenthalfrederics.com

top california shops for Indie brands Personal stylist Daniele King (danieleking .com) takes a more luxurious approach to California style. “My idea of luxury is a perfectly tailored trouser, a six-ply cashmere sweater, and a great K. Jacques sandal. And for evening I might go a little rock ‘n’ roll with some leather jeans, a boot with a heel, always a heel for a sexy feel, and a T-shirt.” Her inspiration: “Think Lauren Hutton in American Gigolo or Faye Dunaway in Network. That’s my jam.” Here she shares her favorite destinations to fine-tune your own interpretation of California style. A’MAREE’S Casual elegance is A’maree’s signature look at the family-owned Newport Beach destination, where you can shop in a midcentury waterfront structure designed by the architects who created the Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena. Look for Golden Goose sneakers, Saint Laurent, Marni, Céline, and beyond. amarees.com HUTCHINSON FINE JEWELRY This jewel box–shaped shop in the Marin Country mart offers up a spellbinding selection of envy-worthy baubles and bits from designers like cult-favorite Pippa Small, and California designers like Ashley Morgan and Emily P. Wheeler. hutchinsonjewelry.com HERO SHOP A San Francisco must founded by a former Vogue fashion news editor, this Tenderloin district shop specializes in emerging local brands like Rosetta Getty, Creatures of the Wind, and Sophie Buhai. heroshopsf.com CHURCH BOUTIQUE Live out your rock ‘n’ roll fantasy at this West Hollywood shop, where Rodney Burns and David Malvaney (former Maxfield employees) have assembled an avant-garde collection that caters to shoppers who crave original statement pieces to go with their ripped T-shirts. churchboutique.com MOHAWK GENERAL Stationed at the epicenter of hipster paradise Silver Lake, Mohawk mixes a mid-century-modern aesthetic with 21stcentury fashion. Mansur Gavriel bags play nicely with Japanese footwear from Hender Scheme and looks from Rachel Comey and LA designers like Raquel Allegra. mohawkgeneralstore.com —S.S. Spring 2018 115

SPA

DAYS EIGHT DESTINATIONS BRING SOMETHING NEW TO THE MASSAGE TABLE.

e live in the most efficient, least disease-ridden time in recorded

history, yet we still donâ€™t feel all that well. We require much more than a deep-tissue massage and cleansing facial to restore us. The latest and greatest destination-driven retreats are fulfilling our needs with natural resources to promote total wellness, and the facilities, experts, and programming to repair what ails us. Whether itâ€™s reconnecting to nature, depriving the senses to gain focus, or meditating for elevated lucidity, getting out of our heads and into the right hands is vital

Four Seasons Resort Lanai

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Barbara Kraft

to living our best lives. w

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FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI Hawaii

Top: Robin Stancliff Photography; Bottom Right: Dana Gallagher

ne of the only two resorts on the 90,000-acre Hawaiian island of Lanai reopened in February 2016 after an eight-month, $450 million renovation courtesy of the island’s owner, billionaire Larry Ellison. During the project, Ellison rebuilt the lobby four times to ensure its views framed the ocean just so. Lanai is the least densely populated of Hawaii’s seven inhabited islands. Whether taking in uninterrupted ocean views during a solo hike or journeying through a sequence of sun salutations, here it’s possible to escape humanity altogether. On the ground floor of the main building below Nobu, a botanical garden of native plants and lava rocks sits outside Hawanawana Spa. Eight treatment rooms, including four couples suites with rain showers and side-by-side deluxe spa treatment beds, populate this sanctuary for the mind and body. The 60-minute Oceanic Stone Lomi Lomi Massage (ask for masseuse Kinoikaika) spotlights ocean-forward products like OSEA’s Undaria Algae Oil and employs the flowing Hawaiian movement tradition called lomilomi. By mimicking the cadence of the sea, the rhythmic strokes stimulate the circulatory system to rid the body of tension and stress. A robust fitness class schedule is set out during turndown each night, accompanied by a soothing natureinspired soundtrack. From $1,150; fourseasons.com —Alexandra Cheney

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ONE&ONLY PALMILLA Los Cabos, Mexico

n Mexico’s Baja Peninsula overlooking the Sea of Cortez, this 250-acre retreat began in 1956 as a 15-room hideaway built by Don Abelardo Rodriguez, son of the president of Mexico. In 2004 after a $90 million renovation, the One&Only opened, and continues to expand. From the historic Spanish-style chapel to the colorful landscaping of palm trees, purple and pink indigenous flowers, and cacti, aimlessly wandering the property could prove as fruitful as hopping from the beach to the spa. The 22,000-square-foot retreat within a retreat encompasses a Yoga Garden, 13 private treatment villas, a full-service salon, Barber & Blade for grooming, and a nail studio.

Temazcal

In November 2017 the property added a stone and clay igloo set into the earth and heated with volcanic rocks from Baja California Sur. Called a Temazcal, or “house of heat” in Aztec, the room has a low-built, sunrise-facing door that forces guests to bow their heads upon entry. Inside, One&Only Palmilla’s resident shaman performs a highly interactive group wellness treatment incorporating traditional medicinal herbs, heat, steam, copal incense, indigenous music, and chanting. Everything happens in complete darkness, creating an intense experience of purging, sweating, and healing. After either 120 or 180 minutes, you emerge with a detoxified body and purified mind thanks in part to the personalization of the products and scrubs used throughout. From $640; oneandonlyresorts.com —A.C. w

Don Riddle

Clockwise from left: Naga Thai massage; floating meditation; lush grounds; and a meditative labyrinth.

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THE RETREAT AT MIRAVAL ARIZONA RESORT & SPA Tucson, Arizona

or two decades, this cactiflooded desert escape has touted its “life-enhancing minimalism” mantra in northern Tucson. The brand expanded to Dana Point, California, in 2016 and is set to arrive in Austin, Texas, later this year. In Tucson, the big news is the retreat. The new villas opened this February

with 22 suite-style residences for larger parties and guests wanting more space. In-room experiences and modular design elements might include private pools, spas, hot tub, and private patio and entrances, and allow retreat guests to decide the depth and degree to which they want to socialize. For some, the wellness journey is inward; for others, it is outward. On the curated menu of Life in Balance Spa services, available to all guests, is a trio of new treatments that keep pace with society’s need to unplug. The Cara Vida facial utilizes Sonoran wildflower honey that is mixed with chia seed oil, blood oranges,

and native aloe to create a decadent mask. The Harvest Honey Ceremony, an invitation-only version of this facial that uses honey harvested on property, is performed just 20 times a year, one treatment for each hive. During the water treatment Vasudhara, guests experience Thai massage and feel intentional sound pulses from underwater speakers. The Path of the Jaguar uses crystals to exorcise negative energies and clear chakras. Led by a shamanic healer, guests solidify the treatment by ultimately burying their crystals. From $549, all-inclusive; miravalresorts.com —A.C. w

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NAÏA RESORT AND SPA Placencia, Belize

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Benedict Kim

pened in January 2017 atop an isthmus on Belize’s southern coast, this escape of 35 beachfront houses is flanked by the Caribbean Sea to the east and tranquil, forested lagoons to the west. The property devoted 10,000 square feet of its 200-acre private reserve to its spa, which includes a handful of standalone treatment suites, a private-island complex designed for couples, a saltwater pool, a fresh-squeezed-juice bar, a gym with a floor made from recycled Nike shoes, and a yoga pavilion connected by a network of charming white bridges. Balconies off the wood-paneled treatment rooms extend over a placid freshwater lagoon dotted with lily pads. All staff members are Belizean, and the majority of the spa products are created from indigenous ingredients that are ground, mixed, and prepared by local artisans and traditional healers. An aromatherapy massage oil, for example, uses a blend of regionally harvested ylang ylang, orange, ginger, and copal (tree resin used in Mayan spiritual cleansing ceremonies). During the 90-minute U Quikuna Chel (Mayan for “healing of spirit”), guests enjoy a foot bath, smudging ritual, massage, tequila-glass cupping session, clay body masque, herbal bath wrap, facial masque, and hair bath. Naïa also boasts an extensive list of land and sea activities such as a lagoon kayak adventure and aerial yoga (the first in Belize). Among the three waterfront restaurants find fresh-caught conch carpaccio, local lobster, and a dairy-free Mayan chocolate made simply with raw cacao, cayenne pepper, and cinnamon. From $295; naiaresortandspa.com —A.C.

FAENA MIAMI BEACH Miami

hen Argentine hotelier Alan Faena made his first foray into North America, the result was all about red and animal print, gold leaf, and an unadulterated, look-at-me luxe thatâ€™s a feast for pretty much all the senses. Opened in 2016, the 22,000-square-foot spa dubbed Tierra Santa Healing House spans the entire third floor and includes a fitness center and yoga studio. Attendants dressed in uniforms by Carolina Kleinman, an Argentinian fashion designer whose company, Carolina K, is known for colorful prints, usher clients to a reception area where a long, white sofa sits upon a striped rug and beneath the often-Instagrammed Float chandelier made by Dutch design firm Tweelink using 500 fishing floats. Embroidered throw pillows and ottomans, also by Carolina K, are stylishly strewn about the space. The transformative, magical 1,200-squarefoot wet spa is clad almost entirely in white marble from the showers to the ice room and the heated slab where one can rest after completing the healing waters circuit. The design is very deliberate and is meant to calm the mind as well as the body. A hexagon-shaped slab of Amazonite is the star of the hammam, where curved benches surrounding the room are lit from beneath and seem to float in this space, the spiritual center of the hotel. From $795; faena.com â€”Rima Suqi w

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THE OBEROI SUKHVILAS RESORT & SPA New Chandigarh, India

hirty minutes from the city of Chandigarh, the Oberoi and its 60 villas, rooms, and tents are surrounded by 8,000 acres of protected natural forest. Manicured green gardens offset by water channels, fountains, and cusped arches decorate the grounds as a sharp contrast to the overwhelming sounds and smells of urban India. Here at the foothills of the outer Himalayas, guests bask in the purposeful silence and restfulness of a light-filled, 12,000-square-foot spa. Unveiled in December 2017, the space is best classified as a wellness center, with comprehensive

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program offerings including digital detox, Ayurveda, stress and weight management, and rejuvenation, ranging from 7 to 28 days. Programming includes birdwatching, outdoor trekking, and forest and moon bathing, and guests can access hydrotherapy pools, an infrared sauna, a Turkish hammam, and a Roman tepidarium with radiant heated walls, floors, and stone reclining chairs. Naps, gardening, and stargazing are encouraged, and it’s not uncommon to see guests meditating in the garden or daydreaming in the library. There’s resort-wide encouragement to wean from tech devices and focus on the present. From $375; oberoihotels.com —A.C.

AMAN LE MÉLÉZIN

Courchevel 1850, France

t the opening of the 2017 ski season while celebrating its 25th birthday, the 31-room, four-star hotel revealed its new 8,000-squarefoot spa. To erect the spa, the entirety of the slope-side building was temporarily placed on stilts (a technique never before attempted in the Alpine mountain town). The two-floored space features five treatments suites, including two double suites and one signature Thai massage suite. “Wellness is more than being free from illness, it is a dynamic process of change and growth, a state of complete physical, mental, and social well-being,” reads the introductory pages of the 32-page spa menu. The thoughtfulness of the spa’s offerings highlights the evolution of self-care

here. A daily pre-ski warm-up is hosted in the yoga studio, as are après-ski tension-releasing sessions. Likewise, ritual-driven treatments seek to ground, revitalize, and restore spa-goers. The majority of options revolve around combating the effects of winter activities, while the grounding journey, complimentary singing bowl ceremony, and foot ritual carry over from the Aman Signature Treatment Menu offered at all of the Singapore-based brand’s properties. Also consistent across the Aman brand: the use of all-natural skincare products made with rare and precious ingredients like colloidal metals, pearls, jade, frankincense, palo santo, and alkalizing, oxygen-rich muds and mists. The company culls these from its global portfolio of properties, many of which are near sacred sites that align with energetic ley lines. From $1,360; aman.com —A.C. w

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JEWEL GRANDE MONTEGO BAY RESORT & SPA

Montego Bay, Jamaica

pened in September 2017 with a 30,000-square-foot, villa-inspired Grande Spa, this all-suite, all-inclusive resort includes butler service with each of its 217 accommodations, ranging from junior suites to three-bedroom villas. The spa partnered with group spa and wellness director and Reggaelates founder Sienna Creasy on its extensive list of offerings, including Creasy’s trademark variation of Pilates and yoga to the beat of reggae, hip-hop, and dancehall soundtracks. Guests can also try the EXO Chair training, an all-in-one system (much like the traditional Pilates chair with elastic tubing) to tone, strengthen, and lengthen with the help of yogic movements. Treatments inspired by Jamaica include the Rum Runner Ritual: The full-body scrub uses locally distilled Appleton Estate Rum and the massage incorporates vanilla and ginger oils. After treatments guests can alternate between the Caribbean’s first and only Himalayan salt halotherapy lounge and Jamaica’s only Quartz Therapy Ritual Room, where a spa table is filled with quartz sand and Baltic amber. When the golden mixture is heated to 108 degrees it can boost your immune system and foster mental harmony. From $426; jewelgrande.com —A.C. w

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FLEXFORM NEW YORK 155 East 56th Street 10022 New York (U.S.A.) Tel. (212) 355 2328 info@flexformny.com www.flexformny.com

WELLTH 90210 BEVERLY HILLS IS POSITING ITSELF AS A MECCA OF INTENTIONAL WELLNESS

Ceremoniously coined the “City of Wellth” in May 2017, Beverly Hills has long been an epicenter for self-care. From day spas to healthy dining options, the Southern California suburb is a trailblazer. “Wellth defines a move away from a drive for money and possessions to a less materialistic and more valuable life currency that encompasses wellness and is exemplified by health, purpose, and happiness,” says Julie Wagner, CEO of Beverly Hills Conference and Visitors Bureau. Wellness-based tourism is a $563 billion industry according to a recent study by the Global Wellness Institute. “Wellth is not a trend in Beverly Hills, it’s a lifestyle,” says Wagner. Accessible to locals and tourists alike, the city’s concentration of spas, studios, and eateries reflects such values, as do a range of new offerings from the city’s top hotels.

At Montage Beverly Hills (montagehotels.com), more than half of the spa clients are locals, according to director Amelia Winfrey. For regulars and overnight guests, Winfrey recommends the L.Raphael Oxy Star AntiPigmentation facial ($1,400). The treatment uses the Oxy-Tech II, one of seven $250,000 proprietary machines worldwide that packs an anti-aging punch to fight hyperpigmentation and fade sun and age spots. Expect velvety soft and glowing skin as well as the sensation of skiing down a freshly powdered slope in the Alps, as the treatment is bookended by oxygen blasts. The integral skincare line L.Raphael (l-raphael.com) hails from Switzerland and its founder, Ronit Raphael, has been Chopard’s facialist of choice at the Cannes Film Festival for nearly a decade.

4 Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills (fourseasons.com) has created a series of five wellness rooms and two wellness suites (from $675). The hardwood-floor spaces boast Peloton spin bikes in the suites, circadian lighting, Alo Yoga mats, and dechlorinating showers catering to wellness-forward travelers. Health-conscious menus free of gluten and dairy but full of antioxidants and protein tender the in-room dining experience. 128 Spring 2018

Wellness programming doesn’t cease there. The JetSet Refresh Facial, a Four Seasons Spa collaboration with skincare brand iS Clinical (isclinical.com), is an energetic workout for the visage. Three masks—one to exfoliate and cleanse, a second to clarify, and a third to cool—are applied in succession. With ingredients like honey and papaya, northern Atlantic algae and mud, and green tea and aloe vera, respectively, the facial stimulates every pore.

4 At bastion of luxury Peninsula Beverly Hills (peninsula.com), the Ultimate Indulgence Facial ($1,500) utilizes a six-in-one In-Skin facial machine that combines oxygen, diamond tip microdermabrasion, radio frequency, air massage, electroporation, and an LED face mask. The tool, in conjunction with Biologique Recherche (biologique-recherche.com) products, yields a highperformance experience including cold masks and oxygenated vitamin A sprays. The esthetician (ask for Roos) tailors the luxe regimen throughout the 120-minute service.

Opened in June 2017, Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills (waldorfastoria.com) serves caviar at its signature restaurant, Jean-Georges Beverly Hills, and treats spa-goers with caviar in its 5,000-square-foot art deco–inspired spa. On the menu is the 90-minute Rejuvenating Platinum Facial ($595) by heritage skincare brand La Prairie (laprairie. com) that incorporates the justlaunched, three-years-in-themaking Platinum Rare Cellular Night Elixir. Deemed “simply the most powerful rejuvenating potion yet to emerge from the La Prairie laboratories” by Dr. Jacqueline Hill, La Prairie’s director of strategic innovation and science, the product pairs exceptionally well with La Prairie’s legendary caviar proteins to promote anti-aging. —A.C. u

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ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN

A private meditation pavilion in Switzerland

LIVING WELL

NEED TO SLOW DOWN, DESTRESS, AND RECALIBRATE? MAKE ROOM FOR A WORKOUT AND MEDITATION REGIME THAT WILL HELP YOU RESTORE BALANCE AND ENSURE LONGEVITY. ADDITIONS FOR HOME SPAS, YOGA STUDIOS, MEDITATION PAVILIONS, AND RECREATION WINGS ARE NOW AS CRUCIAL AS KITCHEN AND BATH REMODELS. by Jorge S. Arango Spring 2018 131

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1. GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

Typology: Meditation pavilion and garden Design: GM Architectes Associés (Geneva), gmaa.ch Square Feet: 1,292 Features: Ash wood structure over a steel frame; misting system; pond; summer kitchen; and bath/changing rooms. As GMAA partner Tiziano Borghini describes it, this minimalist space “is perfectly aligned with the

four directions.” A changing room and bath occupy its western end, a summer kitchen the eastern end, and the open middle space creates a clear north–south axis for tranquil views. The structure functions

in harmony with the landscape: manicured lawns, trees planted in straight lines, and a reflection pond.

“The surroundings are conceived to create a unique atmosphere of closeness and privacy,” says Borghini. “The central void, even when closed, lets the breeze pass through the sliding wooden panels and water crosses below, with the pavilion hovering over it.” A misting system further cools the pavilion during hot summer months. w

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2. SURREY, ENGLAND

Matt Livey

Typology: Yoga studio Design: Blue Forest, blueforest.com Square Feet: 1,075 Features: Cedar-shingle exterior; sedum roof; Kebony deck and verandas; cedar interior; bathroom; and dressing room.

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Across the garden from the main manor house, a yoga studio shaped like a storybook was created by the imaginative Blue Forest team that specializes in building elaborate tree houses. Company director Simon Payne describes the

building’s design as “a harmonious coalescence of efficiency, sustainability, and serenity, entirely at

peace with its surroundings.” With a shingled binding and sedum roof that looks like grass, the studio seems to rise directly from the land. Sliding glass doors along one side can open to the garden on warmer days; air-tight

construction and proper insulation keep the space warm in inclement weather. Just outside the doors, Payne installed Kebony wood decking—“a wonderful, sustainable alternative to tropical hardwoods,” he says. w

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3. MERCER ISLAND, WASHINGTON

Typology: Wellness studio Design: SHKS Architects, shksarchitects.com Square Feet: 700 Features: Kitchen; full bath; infrared sauna; yoga wall; and support equipment.

Years after commissioning SHKS Architects and principal Jonathan Hartung to design her yoga studio, homeowner Lara Sanderson discovered the Forest Dweller, which in Hindu represents the fourth stage

of spiritual maturation. “It happens in your 40s and 50s, when you retreat to the forest to contemplate the subtler dimensions,” she says. “I told Hartung I wanted a new space to be embraced by six

‘mother trees’ in the woods.” Thus, SHKS devised a raised, cedar-shingled longhouse containing three Benjamin Benschneider

14-foot bays. Aside from a skylight, Hartung says, “The windows on the sides of the building are high,

so views are into the trees.” A yoga wall for supported asanas (yoga postures) initially separated a yoga-

meditation space from a Pilates studio. As Sanderson delved further into meditation, the Pilates equipment disappeared, transforming the whole building into a space to support her yoga and meditation practices. w

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4. KIRUNA, SWEDEN

Typology: Sauna Design: Bigert & Bergstrรถm, bigertbergstrom. com Square Feet: 215 Features: Dry sauna for up to eight people; heart-shaped, wood-burning stove made of iron and stone; and retractable staircase.

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The economy of Sweden’s

northernmost town, Luossabacken, relies on mining for iron ore—so

much so that the entire place is being relocated to facilitate additional mining. Among the city of new

apartments being built by developer Riksbyggen, a community sauna

captures the intent of the project.

Stockholm-based artists Mats Bigert and Lars Bergström created the Solar Egg, shaped like the classic symbol of emerging life, to acknowledge the rebirth of an urban landscape. The egg’s faceted golden mirror exterior reflects fragmented

visions of the surrounding landscape, buildings, and industry and reminds residents to keep man-made and

natural landscapes in equilibrium. The

warm, wood-paneled interior provides sanctuary from the Scandinavian elements, so residents can gather

and exchange ideas. An iron stove symbolically shaped like a human heart heats the room. w

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5. KNIGHTSBRIDGE, LONDON

Typology: Spa Design: Lawson Robb, lawsonrobb.com Square Feet: 970 Features: Steam shower, sauna, and ice-cold plunge pool; massage area; and hot tub with adjacent wine cellar and refreshment area. When designer Charlotte Robb was given a subterranean space with no

windows to conceive a spa, she looked up. She reengineered the building to

create a “walk-over glass roof above the spa tub, so you could sit there and see the stars,” she says. Creamy, stacked-limestone walls alleviate the basement’s original catacomb feel and light-washed vaulted ceilings impart the illusion

of height. At one end, Robb installed an ice-cold plunge pool with a warming sauna and a Bisazza tile–lined steam shower. A remote-control fireplace

makes things toasty in the massage area opposite a mirrored wall that expands the space and also features an imbedded television. “We kept the design

really simple, letting the leathers, stone, fabrics, and teak create a palette that is inviting. It’s the sort of space that will always look good because it’s timeless.”

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6. SOUTH OF FRANCE

Typology: Yacht spa Design: Winch Design, winchdesign.com (interior); Tim Heywood Design Ltd., +44.16.35.26.93.80 (exterior); Amels, amels-holland.com (builder) Square Feet: 810 Features: Jacuzzi; massage area; hammam; sauna; beauty area; and relaxation area. The French Riviera’s Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat and Monte-Carlo’s Hôtel Hermitage have long been twin axes of glamour, attracting global glitterati since the Belle Époque. Using these as inspiration, Jim Dixon, a

department head at London-based Winch Design, envisioned an elaborate spa for the Plus Ultra yacht. He describes it as “a scheme based on the Côte d’Azur that is classical and highly decorated, but young.”

Bianco Namibia, Rosa Egeo, and Rose Quartz marbles spiral out on the floor like a nautilus shell. Marble columns topped by illuminated glass Corinthian capitals “ground the architecture of the space,” says Dixon. There are also rose onyx countertops, etched glass panels, and doors to segregate

various areas. Specially commissioned artworks include pietre dura mosaics in the hammam. The cream, pink, Winch Media

and gold palette contrasts with the marine views outside a large picture window to starboard. w

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7. ALAMATY, KAZAKHSTAN

Typology: Spa Design: Hill House Interiors, hillhouseinteriors.com Square Feet: 5,000 Features: Indoor pool; hot tub; hair salon; sauna; gym; and a massage room dedicated to the traditional Russian technique of incorporating birch twigs and eucalyptus called parenie. For this palatial spa built for Kazakh sovereignty, the usual rules didn’t apply. “As we weren’t prohibited with

budget constraints, we really went above and beyond with the key features,” says co-founder of London-based Hill House Interiors Helen Bygraves. “We wanted to create a truly opulent area for not just the

family to relax in but also as a backdrop for lavish entertaining.” Among the spa’s main features are Perlato Olympo marble walls, smoky quartz pillars, and a custom Sharon Marsden chandelier spanning the length of the pool below. The fixture incorporates over 1,000 shards of glass embedded with fiber optics and

3,600 hand-blown glass clusters in shades of amber. “It really does define the space,” she says, “turning it from a luxury spa into something that’s not only aesthetically pleasing but a sanctuary for the body, mind, and soul.”

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8. SHELBURNE, VERMONT

Typology: Recreation wing Design: David Coleman | Architecture, davidcoleman.com Square Feet: 2,000 Features: Pool; spa tub; lounging area with Rumford fireplace; sauna; and exercise room.

A significant addition to a Lake Champlain manor house on 17 acres created a needed refuge for its owners. The temple-like structure supported by columns clad in mortar-washed

brick was conceived as a contemporary Roman bath. Fossilized French

limestone decking and custom, glue-chipped glass fixtures surround the

indoor pool. Two steel and canvas cabanas accommodate a shower and a

spiral staircase leading to another exercise room with a sauna. A rotunda houses a round hot tub and functions as an anteroom to the lounging

area warmed by an energy-efficient, Rumford fireplace. All HVAC vents, electrical outlets, and audio speakers are cleverly concealed to preserve clean, classical geometries throughout. w

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9. SAINT MARTIN

Typology: Fitness room Design: Bradfield & Tobin, bradfieldtobinglobal.com Square Feet: 320 Features: Custom-colored Pilates equipment; temperaturecontrolled environment with glass doors; and nearby pool.

Perched cliffside looking across the Caribbean toward St. Bart’s, this standalone gym is

both luxurious and contemporary. A mirror along the back wall reflects the turquoise ocean view, coordinated with custom-colored Pilates equipment in blue. Folding glass walls along the front side open the structure completely to the outdoors. “The roar of the sea is so

spectacular,” says designer Geoffrey Bradfield, “you feel you’re absolutely part of nature.” A staircase outside leads up to a large pool for more exercise or a relaxing cool-down. u

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AUTHENTIC . PRIVATE . UN I QUE . H OM E .

14 Sunrise Cay Drive • $16,000,000 • 1033 6 Bedrooms, 6.5 Baths • 101’ Ocean Frontage

80 Snapper Lane • $4,200,000 • 1437 3 Bedrooms, 3.5 Baths • 40’ Dockage

121 Marina – Residence 9 • $9,300,900 • 1084 6 Bedrooms, 6.5 Baths • Marina Views

53 Tarpon Lane • $8,200,000 • 1407 6 Bedrooms, 7 Full & 3 Half Baths • Outdoor Kitchen

With every amenity one can imagine, Ocean Reef Club truly deﬁnes private club living. Our wide selection of island homes offers an array of real estate choices suited to meet your personal needs and complement your individual lifestyle. From slips to beautiful oceanfront estates each property comes with the security of knowing you and your family can enjoy our unique way of life. Interested in learning more about the simple pleasures of our unique club? There are only two ways to experience Ocean Reef Club – as a guest of a member or through the pages of Living magazine. Go to OceanReefClubLiving.com or call 305.367.6600 to request your free copy and our Real Estate Guide.

William H. Dickinson, Managing Broker Lic. Real Estate Broker, Ocean Reef Club Real Estate Company® is An Equal Opportunity Company, Equal Housing Opportunity. This material is based upon information that we consider reliable, but because it has been supplied by third parties, we cannot represent that it is accurate or complete, and it should not be relied upon as such. This offering is subject to errors, omissions, changes, including price, or withdrawal without notice. Offer not valid in some states.

FURNISHINGS

From chromatherapy to aromatherapy, new products that will turn your at-home spa into a tension-shedding, calm-inducing chamber of relaxation. by Jorge S. Arango

Parisian perfumer Diptyque has released Un Air de Diptyque Noire—a limited-edition black version of its electric diffuser. Included with each device is a 40hour capsule scent, like Roses or Fig Tree. $350; diptyqueparis.com

German ceramic expert Duravit released its popular Vero bathtub series in 2001. Now, the Vero Air, made of sanitary acrylic, comes in a streamlined rectangular silhouette with barely-there 2.125-inch sides. Available in freestanding, back-to-wall, and corner versions. From $1,250; duravit.us

In a twist on its popular candles, Nest Fragrances’ new limited-edition Cedar Leaf & Lavender scented crystals carry undercurrents of rosemary, sage, and eucalyptus. $44 for a 1.3-pound bag; candledelirium.com

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Carved from a single block of Carrara marble, the Papillon bathtub from Stone Forest is a soigné vehicle for showcasing the stone’s rich veining. The sculptural, softly undulating design also finely exhibits additional finish options: Cumulo granite, sandstone, silver travertine, and black granite. $37,500; stoneforest.com

Top Right: Orlando Gutierrez; Bottom Right:Eric Swanson

BATHING BEAUTIES

Spanish porcelain house Lladró just released Echoes of Nature, a collection of scented candles featuring delicately carved, pastel-glazed lids in various floral motifs. Each design corresponds to a scent: Tropical Blossom (Italian mandarin, frangipani, benjoin); Gardens of Valencia (bergamot, tuberose, vanilla); A Secret Orient (patchouli, oud wood); I Love You, Mom (vanilla, honey, red fruits); and On the Prairie (basil, bergamot, thyme, vetiver). $55; lladro.com

Bottom Right: Matthew Gallant

Parisian perfumer Diptyque has released Un Air de Diptyque Noireâ€”a limited-edition black version of its electric diffuser. Included with each device is a 40-hour capsule scent, like Roses or Fig Tree. $350; diptyqueparis.com

An upgrade to Speakmanâ€™s popular Hotel model, the Hotel Pure showerhead is fitted with a revolutionary filter that collects and converts unwanted elements, including 99 percent of chlorine. Available in polished chrome or brushed nickel; replaceable filters have a six-month lifespan. From $80; speakman.com

Steam shower leader Thermasol has introduced ThermaTouch 8.1, its latest in-shower, LCD touchscreen controller. The panel controls temperature, music, lighting, and other options, including the Chromatherapy mode that delivers seven color-calibrated presets matched to your various chakras. $1,570; thermasol.com

The Zero Twist Print towels by Japanese textile brand Uchino have a soft, gauzy texture printed on one side with komon (the all-over patterns used on kimonos) and on the other, terry loops woven with zero-twist, nonply yarn for minimal pilling and maximal absorption. From $24; bloomingdales.com

Designed by Seattle-based woodworker Nathie Katzoff, the Lotus bathtub is available in a variety of sustainable domestic and exotic hardwoods finished with a proprietary clear composite barrier for durability. Available in three standard sizes, designs are made to order (shown here in sapele mahogany hardwood with a figured maple cap). NK Woodworking, price upon request; nkwoodworking.com w Spring 2018 147

HOME REMEDIES

Workout enhancers, healing treatments, and beds for lots of ZZZ bring fitness and wellness in-house to help you exert, recover, and relax. by Alexandra Cheney

The white lacquered Tranquility Pod thwarts 90 percent of outside noise and accommodates a 6.5-foot-wide octagonal waterbed to facilitate relaxation. LED mood lighting and an 80-watt, fourspeaker sound system surrounds the temperaturecontrolled mattress covered in memory foam and suede. A pulse sensor synchronizes the lights with users’ heart rates to create an ambient lighting experience based on your current disposition. $30,000; available through Hammacher Schlemmer, hammacher.com

Swedish bed maker Hästens collaborated with design duo Bernadotte & Kylberg (as in Swedish Prince Carl Bernadotte and designer Oscar Kylberg) to reimagine its popular 2000T bed with new looks: Appaloosa riffs on the firm’s classic blue check and Marwari is a rich chestnut brown. From $41,990; hastens.com

The OxyHealth Solace 210 portable, inflatable chamber eliminates the need to travel to a facility for hyperbaric oxygen treatments (the administration of pure oxygen in a high-pressure environment). The treatment brings oxygen to damaged tissues to facilitate natural healing processes; it’s a practice that has been around for more than 350 years. The smallest chamber weighs 73 pounds, is roughly the length of a twin bed, and requires a doctor’s prescription. From $7,000; oxyhealth.com 148 Spring 2018

The Moon 01 headboard and bed frame design, a collaboration between Korean lifestyle designer Teo Yang and Savoir Beds, features three overlapping circles representing the moon’s movement. Glazed metallic linen symbolizes the moon’s glow. The two outer half-moon panels fold in for a cocoon-like sleep. About $57,560; savoirbeds.com

The award-winning, design-driven Ciclotte stationary bike has been improved: A heavier flywheel and chain make for smoother pedaling, the handlebar system can be adjusted more easily, and the remote control sends signals via Bluetooth. New colors include red, white, gray, and, for a limited time, yellow, blue, and green. $14,500; ciclotte.com

Among the many benefits of Flex Disc, a rolling platform used for ground movement training, is neuromuscular recruitment to stabilize joints and maintain optimal posture. Users build mobility, balance, stability, and core strength by maintaining control of eccentric and concentric movement during exercise. From $35; flexdiscfit.com

Top Left: Ezio Manciucca

Latex-free and hypoallergenic, the 4.75-inch MobilityWOD Foot Roller is a must before and after workouts. The compact tool mobilizes, restores, and improves foot function. $20; roguefitness.com

More than meets the eye, this silicone-urethane-cottonblend mat is gorged with 18 pounds of amethyst that combine far infrared spectrum therapy and negative ion technology among the padâ€™s 17 layers. Benefits of the BioMat Professional 7000MX include increased circulation; stimulation of the lymphatic system; reduced inflammation, joint, and muscle pain; and a boosted immune system. $1,695; biomat.com

The latest Therapedic by Sunbeam heated mattress pads have a wireless controller that adjusts levels of warmth at your neck and shoulders, back and torso, and legs and feet. The pad is machine-washable and fits mattresses up to 24 inches deep. Available in twin, full, queen, and king sizes. From $100; therapedic.com

The SoundWhiz Turbo Bluetooth Headphones for running have an IPX 7 water resistance, protecting them from sweat, rain, and accidental immersion. A two-hour charge time delivers up to eight hours of high-definition audio through 10 mm drivers. $36; soundwhiz.com

The Rex-L Plus massage chair from Boyfriend is equipped with patented Brain Massage technology that works in two modes: concentration and meditation. The former delivers massage techniques to stabilize and recharge the brain, enhancing cognitive skills; the technique for the latter allows deeper relaxation. Both incorporate healing music with binaural beats. Price upon request; boyfriend.com w

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GREAT OUTDOORS

Outfitting pools and patios for lounging and dining has become as aesthetically important as designing interiors. Sophisticated options abound. by Jorge S. Arango

Not only does the aptly named Folia chair look like a leaf but its mid-rib and veins comfortably support its occupant. The skeletal frond of powder-coated steel comes in white or bronze, with or without cushions. Royal Botania, from $720; royalbotania.com

Galloway, a collection of custom outdoor furniture by architects Maurizio Manzoni and Roberto Tapinassi, includes an iroko wood chaise frame set atop a stainlesssteel base with aluminum armrests. Custom upholstery available in waterproof fabrics or leather. Visionnaire, about $18,715; visionnaire-home.com 150 Spring 2018

Marella Ferrera designed the embroidered Grafismi indoor-outdoor rug for Paola Lenti. The geometric pattern is made of embroidered rope yarn on polyolefin elements and available in three dimensions. From $6,690; available through DDC, ddcnyc.com

The Daybreak Collectionâ€™s modern, almost Bauhaus-like lines impart an elegant simplicity to outdoor areas. Natural, oiled, or weathered teak is paired with polished stainless steel in any of five powder-coated finish options to create this unusual table. Its uniquely designed base breaks the heavy solidity of slab construction to create something substantial yet lighter in spirit. Link Outdoor, from $9,575; linkoutdoor.com

Sebastian Herkner’s latest addition to the Mbrace outdoor furniture collection, this daybed continues the cocooning forms that make the pieces so alluring. It is offered in various bi-color weaves over a teak frame, and comes with or without cushions. Dedon, from $2,900; dedon.us

The Amalfi outdoor chair by French architect Patrick Naggar is both ancient and modern, sculptural and comfortable, refined and relaxed. The resin piece comes in four color finishes and with or without a cushion ($480). Ralph Pucci, from $3,000; ralphpucci.net

Top Right: Antoine Bootz

French designer Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance has reinterpreted the Bedouin classic Moroccan pouf for longer-term outdoor living. The secret? A waterproof seal similar to Gore-Tex, which is applied to any of the more than 30 available colors and textures that complement the armchairs, love seats, foot stools, and sofas in his Ottoman Outdoor collection. Each furnishing hides a drain for removing moisture. Ligne Roset, from $1,315 (ottoman); ligne-roset.com

The idea behind Ludovica+Roberto Palomba’s Apsara modular outdoor seating collection, with its platform of Afromosia wood slats on a carob-colored aluminum base, is to create an oasis of calm. Cushions and tables (available with marble tops) can be configured infinite ways. Giorgetti, from $13,150; giorgetti.eu

Long known for their metalwork and generously proportioned, architecturally inspired designs, Nicholas and Harrison Condos of Sydney-based Harbour Outdoor partnered with RH, Restoration Hardware to develop the Balmain collection. Available in tactile teak or dark metal, Balmain includes the designers’ first rounded-back pieces. From $340, available at RH, rh.com u

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TECH

THE FUTURE HAS ARRIVED WITH ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE AND VIRTUAL REALITY TAKING WORK AND PLAY TO NEW LEVELS. by Ted Alan Stedman

owerful laptops, cinematic drones, and home security devices made a strong showing at Januaryâ€™s 51st Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas, but top trends veered toward the smart home market. The continued integration of connected devices with the leading voice-based AI assistants, such as Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant, shared the spotlight with VR devices poised for applications beyond entertainment and video games.

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LOOXID VR It’s no surprise this headset earned a Best of Innovation Award in Virtual Reality at CES. The mobile-powered device comes with eye-tracking cameras, allowing more reactivity to user movements. The sci-fi part? Embedded EEG sensors track a user’s brain activity for a better understanding of stress levels, preferences, and emotional engagement. $2,400; looxidlabs.com

SAMSUNG “THE WALL” TV Sure, the 146-inch Wall TV is beyond big—a colossal entertainment center that rivals new, ultra-expensive 4K projectors. But what’s truly exceptional is its Micro-LED technology that delivers infinitesimal 0.8-millimeter pixels to redefine contrast, clarity, and sharpness compared to traditional LCD or OLED TVs. samsung.com

OPTOMA UHD51A 4K UHD Home theater setups don’t get more convenient than this voice-enabled projector, which does everything but pass the popcorn. The compact 4K projector responds to Amazon Alexa voice commands to deliver HDR imagery while integrating with speakers, lighting, and other electronics in a smart home setting. $1,700; optomausa.com

VUZIX BLADE AR Like a digital butler that performs tasks on demand, these Android-based augmented reality glasses are tethered with Bluetooth to a smartphone or Wi-Fi network and operate via Amazon Alexa. Wearers can ask for weather and directions, take photos, or get email and text notifications by navigating the glasses’ touchpad interface along the side of the eyewear. From $1,000; vuzix.com w

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B&O PLAY H8I AND H9I HEADPHONES The sound engineers at Bang & Olufsen have raised the bar for mobile music listening with the new H8i on-ear and H9i overear headphones. Compared to their predecessors, the wireless Bluetooth duo flaunts double battery life for up to 30 hours of use while incorporating advanced, active noise-cancellation technology. From $400; beoplay.com

LG THINQ SMART SPEAKER As a premium speaker, the ThinQ can stand alongside best-in-class. But this speaker isn’t just smart, it’s magna cum laude with built-in Google Assistant that accepts voice commands to control compatible devices along with LG’s ThinQ fridges, thermostats, door locks, and other intelligent home appliances. lg.com

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TECHNICS SP-10R TURNTABLE, SL-1000R PACKAGE Aimed at the most elite analog audiophiles, this direct-drive turntable is a rock-solid, 17-pound, tungsten, brass, and die-cast aluminium marvel that delivers the world’s best vinyl playback—period. If supplying your own tonearm and plinth isn’t part of your DIY DNA, you can dig deeper and acquire Technic’s complete ready-to-play package with the SL-1000. Turntable, $10,000; package, $20,000; technics.com

SAMSUNG NOTEBOOK 9 PEN This lightweight, powerful laptop is a two-in-one combo that includes Samsung’s integrated S Pen, giving users the freedom to write, doodle, sketch, and paint. With its foldable 13.3-inch screen, a quick twist transforms the Notebook from ultracapable laptop to tablet mode. From $1,400; samsung.com

ACER SWIFT 7 Cited as the “world’s thinnest notebook,” this 2.4-pound computer is big on features with a 14-inch display featuring Corning Gorilla Glass HD NBT touchpad and touchscreen, blazing fast Intel Core i7 processor, and 4G LTE connectivity. Graphics users will appreciate its Windows Hello–compatible fingerprint reader and 8-gigabyte memory. From $1,700; acer.com

Top: Jeppe Sørensen

LENOVO SMART DISPLAY

Think of the voice-activated Smart Display as a vibrant, full-featured command center for time-strapped users wanting easy-to-use technology. Configured with 8- and 10-inch HD touchscreens and developed with Google Assistant, the device responds to voice commands to launch tasks like weather updates, music, and YouTube videos and manage compatible devices. From $200; lenovo.com w

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MOVI PHONE Smartphone screens aren’t ideal for entertainment. Now comes a solution with the Android-based Movi smartphone, which has an integrated HD projector that casts 720p videos on any nearby flat surface. Users can watch movies and videos, play games, and produce photo shows with the smartphone’s 16-megapixel camera. $600; moviphones.com FUJIFILM X-A5 It’s a petite 4.8 ounces, yet this mirrorless powerzoom camera is packed with pro features including a high-resolution, 24.2-megapixel sensor and stabilized 14–45 mm powerzoom lens that produces exceptional image files. Add its 4K video recording, microphone jack, and 180-degree tilting touchscreen, and still shooters and vloggers are equipped for any situation. $600; fujifilm.com

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OSSIA COTA FOREVER BATTERY Wirelessly charged batteries have been a fantasy for years. Now Ossia has made this starry-eyed proposition a reality with AA-sized batteries using radio frequency signals to recharge at up to 30 feet from a Cota base charger plugged into a wall outlet. ossia.com

Bottom Right: Luke Springer

DJI RONIN-S CAMERA STABILIZER Expect crisper, more professional photographic results with this singlehanded stabilizer designed for DSLR and mirrorless cameras. The device uses battery-efficient, high-torque internal motors and three-axis gimbal technology to deliver smooth, shakefree video and crisp photos while shooting stationary or on the move. dji.com

AEE SELFLY If you want that aerial camera perspective, this drone-in-a-phone quadcopter fits into the back of a phone case. Snap the drone out of the case and let it take off with its builtin Sony sensor 13- megapixel camera that can record, livestream, and take photos in 1080p and 60fps. It fits recent Apple and Android devices and has a 4-minute flight time. $130; selfly.camera

FISKER EMOTION Tesla might be looking over its shoulder at Fiskerâ€™s new luxury electric sedan, scheduled to hit the road in 2020. Built with a carbon fiber chassis and Level 4 autonomous driving technology, the sports car claims a 400-plus-mile range and a top speed of 160 mph. From $129,900; fiskerinc.com

OMRON HEARTGUIDE Wearers can track blood pressure with this fitness watch, designed with an inflating band that takes oscillometric measurements like a normal blood pressure cuff. By syncing to its smartphone app, data can be shared with a doctor. The watch also takes manual readings and tracks steps and sleep. omronhealthcare.com

COROS OMNI

Taking phone calls and streaming music while cycling could be a recipe for crashes, but not with this smart cycling helmet that transmits Bluetooth audio through bone conduction to your inner ears without blocking environmental sounds. Integrated lighting is visible from the sides and rear, and an ambient light sensor automatically flicks on when the sun goes down. $200; coros.com w

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GOURMIA GCM4750 As any java junkie knows, nothing beats freshly ground coffee. This smart coffeemaker enhances the experience with a built-in bean grinder that kicks in to your command through Google Assistant, making every batch of brew exactly as desired. It brews up to 10 cups and is compatible with the Gourmia mobile kitchen app. $140; gourmia.com

PETRICS SMART BED This Bluetooth- and Wi-Fi-connected animal bed controls its temperature based on the user’s breed and environmental and geographic information. Paired with the wearable Activity Tracker, a health and nutrition app allows pet parents to monitor and track health and nutrition data and share findings with pet sitters and veterinarians. Available in three sizes. From $100; petrics.com

COLETTE TECHNOLOGIES ANTI-THEFT SMART PURSE You don’t have to be a double agent to benefit from the stylish, security-designed Smart Purse. It’s slash-proof with a quick-release shoulder strap, panic alarm, and biometric lock that only the owner can operate. If a culprit does steal the purse, a GPS chip reports its position to a cell network. $500; colettetech.com

ANKER POWERHOUSE 200 At under 7 pounds, this portable battery doesn’t have to live in your garage charged up and ready for the apocalypse. Take it camping or to a beach party for 200 watts of portable power to juice up to three USB devices along with a 100-watt AC output. $300; anker.com

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L’OREAL UV SENSE

A health concern for everybody is ultraviolet exposure, and with this battery-free, wearable UV detector you can receive important exposure information anytime. Small enough to fit on your fingernail, the intriguing, micro-wearable sensor detects harmful exposure and stores up to three months of data viewed on its smartphone app. $40; lorealusa.com u

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WHAT’S HOT

THE

LUXURY

LOOK

GET REAL

On the treadmill or on the couch, an intense workout will get your endorphins pumping and your mind focused.

imulations are becoming reality: Don a pair of goggles and you can battle Orcs, zombies, raiders, or explore unknown worlds. Step on a treadmill and you can simulate pushing a sled, running a marathon, or training tied to a parachute—all while getting faster and stronger. In your living room or in the gym, your reality will take you places you never thought you’d reach. The new Technogym Skillrun can help you forget that mind-numbingly dull treadmill workout so you can train like a pro athlete. Skillrun’s 18.6 mph max speed, 25 percent max incline, sled training and parachute workout features, and biofeedback programs help you speed up and get stronger. At six Olympic Games in the past 20 years, top athletes across disciplines used Technogym equipment to achieve and maintain peak performance. The Skillrun was among the state-of-the-art equipment Technogym took to this year’s Winter Olympics in PyeongChang, South Korea, as the Games’ official fitness equipment supplier. The Samsung HMD Odyssey, a new Windows Mixed Reality headset, gives you 1,440 x 1,600 AMOLED resolution, adjustable screens, 110-degree field of view, and AKG headphones built in, all to create an interactive experience for gaming. Two 6-Degrees-of-Freedom motion controllers accurately track your movements as you play. For simulated gaming, the HMD Odyssey goggles are the real deal. So go ahead and start to train like a pro—or just play like one. —David Keith

Photography FRANKIE BATISTA Styling HEIDI MEEK

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LORNA JANE tank, $44; lornajane.com ATHLETA sports bra, $44; athleta.com ALO tight, $155; aloyoga.com NIKE shoes, $110; nike.com RUSSIAN BRILLIANTS earrings, $725; russianbrilliants.com HEATHER GARDNER necklace, $255; heathergardner.com APPLE WATCH NIKE+ SERIES 3, $399; apple.com UNDER ARMOUR headband, $15; underarmour.com BEATS BY DR. DRE PowerbeatsÂ³ wireless, $199; beatsbydre.com MIIR water bottle, $33; miir.com TECHNOGYM Run Personal treadmill, about $15,290; technogym.com

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EQUIPMENT blouse, $248; equipmentfr.com PAIGE DENIM jeans, $199; paige.com CONVERSE shoes, $85; converse.com SAMSUNG HMD Odyssey Headset, $499; samsung.com Hair/makeup PAUL BLANCH

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WHERE TO WORK OUT AND PLAY New York City

Chicago

TMPL A big-box gym (40,000 square feet on two levels) with a boutique-gym vibe, founded by fitness entrepreneur David Barton, TMPL features funky décor, club-like lighting, and a full slate of classes, equipment, and trainers, plus a 25-meter saltwater pool. Metabolic assessment for every member gives you a detailed workout and dietary plan to get you leaner and stronger. tmplgym.com

REACT PHYSICAL THERAPY Individualized fitness, strength, and “prehabbing” (balancing the body to head off potential injuries) from physical therapist David Reavy draws patients such as pro footballers, basketball players, and NHL players. Body engineering, including individual assessment for strength and conditioning, is offered along with athlete training to get you to your peak fitness. Work out next to pro prospects training for the NFL Scouting Combine. bereact.com

DOGPOUND FITNESS Its industrial-chic design attracts Victoria’s Secret models working out in the boxing ring. The owners started with their own workout group, but when it got too big and noisy, they opened the Dogpound. Minimalist but packed with equipment, clients rotate through different trainers to generate a sense of community. Their special workout: the Machine Gun, combining yoga, barre, and some strength training and cardio exercise. thedogpound.com

Los Angeles LAGREE FITNESS STUDIO Get in the best shape of your life with a 25-minute workout that combines strength, balance, endurance, core, cardio, and flexibility. The only patented workout in LA, now with locations in Westwood and West Hollywood (plus eight in New York City), the Lagree machine (the Supraformer) inclines and tilts to provide proper angles for high-intensity but low-impact workouts. Sixty-second sets of slow, controlled movements target specific muscle ranges to activate fast and slow twitch muscle fibers. lagreefitnessstudio.com TRIFIT CLUB AND STUDIO For serious endurance athletes, TriFit is a USA Triathlon–certified Performance Testing Center with Masters swim classes as well as fitness assessment, swim technique, and run gait analysis to improve race performance. Bike fitting, race training programs, and high-altitude training round out services that include yoga and MMA classes, as well as a full complement of exercise equipment, including a TRX setup. trifitla.com 164 Spring 2018

POW FITNESS A family-oriented facility for parents and kids as young as 4, POW offers fitness classes and sports training programs for athletes of all ages and abilities. Sportspecific instructors provide personal training, martial arts, boxing, and conditioning classes. Parents and children can take their own classes at POW, meeting up after workouts to recover in the lounge. POW trainers emphasize overall athleticism, teaching conditioning and skills to produce a better athlete. POW also features Parisi youth training to help fitness, speed, coordination, and agility in kids and young adults ages 4 to 22. powgymchicago.com

VIRTUAL REALITY ARENAS WORLDWIDE

If you’re tired of sitting on your couch with your VR goggles, visit a Virtual Reality arena for a truly immersive experience. Using Zero Latency’s technology, these warehouse-sized facilities let you fight for survival with your team, battling zombies or investigating a seemingly abandoned space station. No wires to hold you back: For at least 30 minutes, you’re free to roam around the game room, your teammates appearing in your view as avatars to help you fight for survival while you shoot your way through a VR zombie apocalypse. In the United States, Zero Latency games are available at eight locations, from Las Vegas to Orlando. Find international outposts in Australia, Japan, Spain, and five other countries. zerolatencyvr.com —D.K. u

WATCH WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU CARRY A NICE PEN.

D E S I G N I S AT TH E F O R E F R O NT O F TH E C H I C , U R B A N AT X . IT S S LE E K S I LH O U E T TE I S S H A R P LY D R E S S E D W ITH D I A M O N D - PAT TE R N E D, M AC H I N E -TU R N E D E N G R AV I N G S O N B L AC K E N E D S TE E L A N D M E TA LLI C TO N E S F O R A N U N M I S TA K A B LY B O LD LO O K . AVA I L A B LE AT S P E C I A LT Y R E TA I LE R S A N D

CROSS.COM

G I F T E D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S . G U A R A N T E E D F O R L I F E .

HEALTH

T THOSE WRINKLES, THAT BLOAT, THE ANXIETY—IT’S YOUR BODY TRYING TO TELL YOU SOMETHING’S WRONG. FUNCTIONAL MEDICINE PRACTITIONERS ARE LISTENING. by Heidi Mitchell

he two quotation marks that sit between your eyebrows aren’t there because you’re angry. True, you may be a little tense these days, but they twitch, furrow, and linger because your body is under chronic oxidative stress, or your gut is inflamed, or you have a nasty hidden infection. Go to a dermatologist, and she’ll inject you with Botox to erase their appearance—but the underlying problem persists. Go to a practitioner of functional medicine (FM), and she will run a battery of lab tests, ask about your lifestyle, and prescribe a systems-based, top-down approach that might include diet changes, acupuncture, herbal supplements, biofeedback, and massage—and reveal positive results in six months, or even a week. Functional medicine dates back to 1991, when Dr. Jeffrey Bland decided that fighting chronic diseases with drugs might not be the best way to bring health to millions. He and his wife Susan set up the Institute for Functional Medicine (ifm.org), which certifies medical doctors, herbalists, acupuncturists, and other medical practitioners in a holistic approach to wellness that marries all the science of Western medicine with 5,000 years of Eastern knowledge. Rather than treating a disease or outof-whack body function, practitioners of FM consider genetics, lifestyle, and all signs and systems to help bring a patient to homeostasis: their own personal wellness best. Experts believe that FM has been booming in the past five years or so because there is growing mistrust between patients and medical practitioners. “The opioid epidemic caused a lot of distrust,” says Duncan Macdonald, senior faculty at the Kalish Institute (kalishinstitute.com) in San Francisco, one of the leading organizations within the discipline. “And there has been a basic epiphany that there is always a root cause to a disease, and the symptoms are just expressions of that. If you don’t address the root cause, you’ll just be a polypharmacy case—your own little lab.” He notes that in 2016 the Mayo Clinic published its first pilot study on FM, with dramatically positive results, and the revered temple of innovative medicine, the Cleveland Clinic, announced plans in 2016 to double the physical size and patient capacity at its Center for Functional Medicine after being open less than two years. The center had quickly reached maximum capacity and prior to the expansion kept a waiting list of more than 1,000 clients.

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Unlike conventional Western medicine, FM remains unregulated, but the best practitioners are typically certified by top institutions like Kalish, the IFM, and the Kresser Institute (kresserinstitute.com). The majority are not specialized, though the most soughtafter professionals have a passion for a particular focus within their practice. Which means if your fine lines are driving you bananas, your body is letting you down, or you’re overwhelmed with depression, holistic help is never far away. In fact you may be just one visit away from optimal health.

GOING AU NATUREL

If you break your arm, you go to the emergency room, where doctors excel in triage. “But if you have ongoing issues, you want to see a functional medicine practitioner,” says cosmetic acupuncturist Shellie Goldstein of Shellie Goldstein Associates (hamptonsacupuncture .com). She works out of offices in New York City and the Hamptons, and sees everyone from celebrities to millennials who would rather find a natural remedy for their wrinkles or rosacea than a surgical one. After an initial consultation with each patient, Goldstein will find an ideal treatment protocol for each client. Her most popular modalities are acupuncture, microcurrent, LED lights, and ultrasound—all used on the face, all able to improve skin tone and suppleness without any knives. “People are no longer interested in that tight, frozen appearance. They want to look natural and healthy,” says Goldstein.

“Your external appearance is a reflection of your internal health, so in addition to the face I treat the underlying conditions, such as stress, digestive problems, and sleep disorders. Then we treat the muscles by either relaxing those that are too tight or toning those that are overstretched or weak. Your face will look different after one session.” After 10, you’ll look brand-new. Then it’s just maintenance. Goldstein sells services by time, not modality, so there’s no “upselling” on the table; she calls her therapies “a workout for the face.” A typical patient may present with wrinkles and during the intake Goldstein may determine she actually has insomnia or is going through perimenopause. An AcuFacial integrates health and beauty so everything is addressed during a session. “It’s an inside-out approach,” she explains. Her facial cupping, for example, improves lymph drainage, tightens and plumps the skin, and can also alleviate congestion due to spring allergies. Seventy percent of users of her facial acupressure tool, Touch+Glow, said that they saw an improvement in their self-image. “When you feel good, you look good,” says Goldstein. “And looking good helps you to feel better about yourself.” She’s been doing FM for beauty for a decade but is seeing a huge increase in interest lately. “In a recent poll, 60 percent of acupuncture patients asked about cosmetic acupuncture. It is one of the fastest-growing acupuncture specialties,” she says. “I teach student and postgraduate cosmetic acupuncture at Tri-State College of Acupuncture, and my classes are packed.” Goldstein is not alone. An increasing

number of cosmetologists have embraced FM to help clients achieve inner and outer beauty. At Take Care Spa (takecarenyc.com) in New York’s East Village, supermodels come in for microcurrent and LED facials with aestheticians personally chosen by Sadie Adams. The Yang Institute of Integrative Medicine (taoinstitute .com) in New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania uses moxibustion (cupping) and acupuncture to reduce the signs of aging in six weeks. A 1996 report in the International Journal of Clinical Acupuncture showed that among 300 people treated with cosmetic acupuncture, 90 percent had marked effects with only one course of treatment. “People have been using acupuncture as a preventive treatment to aging for millennia,” Goldstein says. “It works.”

ALL ABOUT THE WHY

Because FM treats the whole body and all its systems, any chronic symptoms a patient may present will likely be discovered through blood work, stool samples, and urine tests. “We have a saying in functional medicine that we test, not guess,” says Macdonald, who has his own practice in San Francisco, Origins Medicine (originsmedicine.com). “You could almost say that FM is an extension of Eastern medicine in that they are both holistic systems–based approaches to health.” He explains that if you get your blood measured by your internist, he might say you are low on B vitamins. “But what your doctor isn’t telling you is why. Are you low because you’re not taking w

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enough, or because stress is driving your B vitamin consumption into overdrive? Or are you low because your gut is not absorbing B vitamins?” Practitioners typically test three main body systems. The first regulates stress hormones (cortisol, DHEA), which create inflammation that can cause anything from joint pain, depression, and skin issues to lethargy, food cravings, and mood issues. The second is the gut, where a lot of hidden infections can lead to autoimmune disease and inflammation. H-pylori is a big one, known for causing ulcers and stomach cancer, but it can also be the culprit in rheumatoid arthritis or Hashimoto’s disease. The third system is the liver’s detox pathway. “If you want to get depressed, look at the CDC’s Fourth National Report on Human Exposure to Environmental Chemicals. We live in an extremely toxic environment,” says Macdonald. “Our detox pathways are nutrient-dependent. Maybe 30 years ago we could have gotten everything we needed from food, but we now have to assist those pathways. If the liver is overwhelmed, it is a big driver of inflammation and it disrupts the whole hormonal system. As we say: Everything causes everything.” Macdonald has examples of a patient presenting with a stubborn rash, anxiety, and stomach pains. After running lab tests, he found an infection, which he cleared in about 60 days with natural remedies. Another patient presented with the same symptoms, but he turned out to have a heavy-metal issue. “That is why we test and don’t guess,” he says. And testing is a big motivator: When patients see what their lifestyle is doing to them in black and white lab results,

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they are typically willing to make changes such as getting eight hours of sleep a night, hitting the gym three times a week, and meditating, plus taking herbal supplements and doing acupuncture. He sees patients once in person for a long session then often continues care via teleconferencing, so he can stay on top of busy executives around the world. He charges about $1,000–$2,000 for lab fees, then $300–$600 per hour for consultations. Supplements cost $200– $600 a month. “It’s not cheap, but if you can spot problems before they happen— which conventional Western medicine does not—then functional medicine could be the best savings plan of your life,” he says. Daniela Turley works at Rahav Wellness (rahavwellness.com) in New York City, where she is a medical herbalist specializing in stress-related illnesses and autoimmune disease, and skin and digestive complaints. “Normally people come to see us when they have been to see everyone first,” says Turley, “and normally they are very sick.” She is treating one patient with Lyme disease, as well as a boy who was pulling out his hair for two years and came to see her as a last-ditch attempt at a cure. He stopped within two weeks of biofeedback. Another patient has chronic asthma, so Turley’s role is to keep it in check. She enjoys working with teenagers—who present with everything from ADHD to acne to headaches— because they respond quickly. At the Cleveland Clinic (clevelandclinic.org), guru Mark Hyman runs the Center for Functional Medicine, where the 10-week Functioning for Life program helps patients with heart conditions, diabetes, autoimmune illnesses, arthritis, and weight issues and culminates with a mindfulness maintenance plan. The center runs trial studies on diabetes and asthma and is at the forefront of innovation. Hyman, a big advocate of how food impacts health, will almost always recommend a diet overhaul to bring balance to the body. “Food influences your capacity to live a rich, energetic, connected, soulful life,” he says. “Food is the doorway to living well.” In Connecticut, Dr. Joel Evans is a gynecologist who founded The Center for Functional Medicine

(centerforfunctionalmedicine.com). He has had success using FM to help women get pregnant, battle breast cancer, counter endometriosis, and stay healthy during and after pregnancy. He says he is more excited about FM than ever and takes great pride in helping “patients feel better and eliminate chronic disease on a daily basis.” Macdonald agrees. Through food, medical-grade supplementation, therapies like acupuncture, and lifestyle change, “most illnesses will resolve themselves,” he says. “Insomnia, lack of sex drive, rosacea, joint pain … most of what we think of as diseases of aging are diseases of chronic stress. It’s not that we’re getting older; it’s that we’re getting more rundown. If you teach someone how to manage stress and strategically support the function of body systems, you can reclaim health and vigor.”

Through food, medical-grade supplementation, therapies

like acupuncture, and lifestyle change, most illnesses will

resolve themselves. Insomnia,

lack of sex drive, rosacea, joint

pain…“most of what we think of as diseases of aging are diseases of chronic stress.” MIND OVER MATTER

Antidepressants are some of the most frequently prescribed drugs in America, but FM experts like Chris Kresser believe that depression and anxiety are inflammatory conditions of the brain or the result of hormone imbalances. For patients presenting with mental issues, many FM practitioners would run urinary tests to measure the breakdown of neurotransmitters after they’ve been processed through the liver. This might reveal that the precursors to the neurotransmitters aren’t present in large enough numbers, leading doctors to question why there isn’t enough serotonin in the intercellular space to begin with.

Usually the answer is stress, which deprives the body of what it needs to build those precursors. FM practitioners will work with patients to get out of fight-orflight survival mode and create a plan that props the brain back up to high function. This might include intravenous B vitamins, lifestyle changes, probiotics to heal the gut, and acupuncture. Practitioners have seen major results in as little as a week. Kresser also cites studies that link other behavioral health disorders to chronic immune system hyperactivity. Bipolar disorder, schizophrenia, anxiety, OCD, ADHD, and autism spectrum disorder are all part of a growing list of cognitive behavioral disorders that peer-reviewed research shows may be caused by chronic inflammation. FM practitioners can treat the root cause, and trim those so-called branches. Dr. Audrey Greenfield, who studied neuroimmunology, switched from monitoring lab rats to practicing FM when Nobel Laureate Kevin Tracey identified the connection between the brain and the immune system while she was working with him at The Feinstein Institute for Medical Research. “When you’re in love or scared, you can feel the physiological manifestation, you can feel your sympathetic nervous system speeding up. This is not something new,” says Greenfield, who now practices acupuncture with a specialty in meridian balancing at Shellie Goldstein Associates’ New York office. She uses a machine that measures electrical resistance at key spots on the body. Measurements can reveal imbalances, which often relate to symptoms, and can be used to help guide treatment and track progress over time. Her two largest groups of clients are Type A stress cases and the chronically ill—the latter for whom she helps alleviate symptoms (of chemotherapy, for example). She stimulates the meridians not with needles but with an AcuLaser, which works just as well and doesn’t turn off needle-phobes. “I have the most success with basic stress-related illnesses,” says Dr. Greenfield. “We can alleviate them without medication, through pressure points and modifications in lifestyle.” FM is filling in the gaps that Western medicine abandoned, catching illnesses before they become debilitating or stopping them in their tracks by addressing the whole body—almost always without contraindicating drugs. u

GUIDE TO WELLNESS A NEW BOOK REVEALS THE DIRECT ROUTE TO LIVING HAPPIER AND HEALTHIER. Dr. Frank Lipman is on a mission. The indemand internist and best-selling author’s latest book, How to Be Well: The 6 Keys to a Happy and Healthy Life (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, April 2018), encourages the practice of small, daily steps that will impact long-term wellness. It’s a mode of functional medicine that marries cutting-edge nutritional science with ancient healing techniques. After landing on American shores in 1984, Lipman became chief medical resident in his final year of internal medicine residency at Lincoln Hospital in New York, and quickly recognized the limitations of Western medicine. Nearly a decade later, the pioneer of functional medicine set up Manhattan’s Eleven Eleven Wellness Center and has been inundated ever since with more A-list health fanatics than we could name here. Forget the cost associated with a series of appointments—getting in can be nearly impossible. With How to Be Well, the South African native hopes to bring his wellness ideology to everyone, no matter the budget or time constraints. In 256 illustrated pages, he lays out simple ways to change less-than-ideal lifestyle habits to effectively “switch off ” certain genes that can lead to illness and “switch on” genes that create health (a field of medicine called epigenetics). Through minor events, like walking barefoot outdoors, getting a pet, or volunteering, he says, we can effectively “catch” a disease before it strikes. “A small choice can become a habit, and that habit can lead to healthier habits and, ultimately, to a healthier lifestyle,” he says. And yes, Dr. Lipman does have scientific studies to back his claims, including one that shows how memorizing mantras can increase the region of the brain associated with cognitive function. To simplify his ideology, the New York–based internist distills the essence of functional medicine down to a single anecdote. It basically goes like this: Two patients present with regular, painful headaches. The medical doctor spends more than an hour with each, getting to know their histories and running standard blood work. One patient, it turns out, didn’t generate enough stomach acid and was thus incorrectly processing food; the other patient was going through menopause. For the former, he altered her diet and prescribed herbal remedies; for the latter, he balanced her cycle with bioidentical hormones. For both, he recommended massage, acupuncture, and meditation. They found relief within two weeks. “Headaches, like most problems, are multifactorial in nature,” says Dr. Lipman. “There are different causes and different treatments for different people—because we are all different emotionally, metabolically, biochemically, and in the way we live our daily lives.” Growing up in South Africa gave Dr. Lipman a fundamental belief in the merits of functional medicine and individualized care. Without the whiz-bang technological innovations of North America or a health care system that rewarded doctors for running costly tests, practitioners had to rely on age-old wisdom, like actually talking to patients. “You can usually make a pretty good diagnosis from taking a good history from the patient,” he says. (The blood tests rule out more serious diseases.) Dr. Lipman believes because there is so much information out there related to health—special diets, guides to mindfulness, endless (but questionable) websites—people can become overwhelmed and discouraged from incorporating the right strategies into their own lifestyles. “The idea of the book is that the more you know yourself and your body, the more you can adjust and adapt,” he explains. “If health and illness are a spectrum, then functional medicine can move you along the spectrum toward health—where there is more vitality and your outer beauty is affected. But we all need guides. I’m hoping my book will be a manual on the journey to wellness.” The cost of improving one’s health and lifestyle to achieve balanced wellness? Effectively zero. —H.M. Spring 2018 169

HEALING PROPERTIES

Europeâ€™s top cutting-edge medical spas have been renovated and expanded. Stimulating tonic, anyone? by Adam Robb

Lanserhof Lans

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For centuries, the health-conscious and ailing made pilgrimages across the European continent to its mineral-rich springs and thermal pools. These healing waters eventually evolved into spas with formal treatments and hotel rooms, naturopaths and doctors, weight-loss and wellness programs. Recent improvements at top centers in France, Austria, Switzerland, and Germany are keeping the tradition alive and facilitating some of the most comprehensive preventative care in the world. w

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LANSERHOF LANS Lans, Austria

even days, once a year is the prescription for a meaningful detox at Lanserhof Lans, a modern medical spa tucked in Austria’s Tyrolean Alps that’s become as renowned for narrowing waistlines as shrinking bank accounts. For more than 30 years, doctors there have practiced Mayr therapy, a blend of Eastern and Western preventive medicine conceived over a century ago by Dr. Franz Xaver Mayr. The prolific Austrian naturopath believed all ailments stem from the stomach. Says Lanserhof’s medical director, Dr. Elke Benedetto-Reisch, “Dr. Mayr believed that detoxification and de-acidification of the body—what’s known today as gut health—is the key to sustained health.” Since Lanserhof’s expansion and reopening in January 2017, that oldschool hunch has been honed and refined in a new secluded mountain village clinic resembling a James Bond villain’s lair. The LANS Med concept provides a bespoke regimen of therapies incorporating the latest innovations in holistic wellness and science, from

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vitamin-rich cuisine to bone-chilling cryotherapy. A new wing houses penthouse spa suites where copper-tiled bathrooms are stocked with the spa’s signature LANS Derma products and outfitted with infrared saunas. Stairs lead to private rooftop sundecks and glass doors open to terraces that peer down upon a heated outdoor saltwater pool that laps at the serene forest floor and lingering deer. It’s everything one could ask for, save a coffee maker and mini bar. A daily schedule combining diet, exercise, and pampering combat caffeine withdrawal, and in between treatments waits an alternative fix at the lobby’s social hub: The communal hot water station (cold drinks are as verboten as raw produce here) supplies a rotation of detoxifying teas and clear vegetable broth on tap. The property’s jet-set international clientele, thermoses in tow, are anonymous in their robes and slippers. Boldface names make annual pilgrimages here. Surnames written on place cards in the dining room read Rockefeller, Delevingne, and Abramovich, all succumbing to the same cleansing linseed oil atop their quinoa porridge. And while servers will be quick to remind diners that each spoonful demands 30 to 40 chews—this is a vacation for the intestines first and foremost—it’s at

mealtime when gossip is exchanged by tablemates, aglow from their afternoon lymph drainage and ripe with urban legends about doctors who used to round up runaway patients at Gasthof Lindemann tavern. Less is said around the iconic baby blue sofa on Lanserhof’s medical level, where patients are called to their daily doctors’ appointments. Self-improvement can take the form of anything from cancer screening to mental coaching and hypnosis, personal training, orthopedics, and acupuncture. Even basic packages come with the necessities for better living: Kneipp therapy (a slow march through cold water meant to improve circulation) and electrolysis foot baths (that pull impurities from extremities until the water turns the color of rust). If all that doesn’t do the trick—if a soothing cupping massage that uses heat and suction to stimulate blood flow in the inner organs, if a vitamin infusion to the liver meant to rapidly cleanse your digestive tract, or if sub-zero cryotherapy sessions where clients bare all to reduce muscle inflammation aren’t enough—it’s down here at the nurse’s station where they keep the elusive fix of espresso. Don’t be surprised to hear precise terminology. In any language, this is “medical coffee.” lanserhof.com w

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BRENNERS PARK-HOTEL & SPA & VILLA STEPHANIE Baden-Baden, Germany

illa Stephanie opened on the grounds of the five-star Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa in 2015, adding the services of a world-class medical spa to Germany’s touted state-of-the-art destination spa. “For centuries, royal guests have traveled here to the edge of the Black Forest to improve their health by taking the waters of Europe’s summer capital,” says managing director

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Frank Marrenbach of the region’s curative thermal springs. Today guests can simultaneously detoxify from their wireless devices by signal-proofing their bedrooms at the push of a button as well as receive revolutionary stem-cell therapies. In addition to the 15 double rooms housed within the Villa Stephanie estate, three handsome spa suites are designed in the same refined aesthetic as the Oetker Collection’s outstanding sister properties (London’s Lanesborough Hotel and Le Bristol in Paris) and equipped with private steam rooms and saunas. Even more impressive is the team of resident clinicians, doctors, therapists, and nutritionists charged with providing preventive medicine in all forms: physical,

psychological, and aesthetic. A team of 20 specialists customize healthful programs that may include menus prepared in the Vitalizing Kitchen for a 10-day weight loss regimen that begins with blood testing metabolism and wraps with a slimming and firming Sisley body treatment. They determine appointments with specialists like namebrand shiatsu master Pierre Clavreux (who developed a revolutionary massage therapy, Kiyindo Shiatsu, or “pain relief by touch,” that focuses on unity in the body’s physical form) and mental coach Henri Charlet (the former five-time European kickboxing champion who offers guests the chance to partake in personal training sessions that reflect his aura of strength and balance).

Not all activity is limited to the hotel grounds. Personal trainers take patients into the nearby park Lichtentaler Allee, along the river Oos, on foot or by bicycle. Medical treatments occur only steps away at Haus Julius, where doctors provide cosmetic treatments, from dentistry to botox, carbon lasering, and facial contouring, as well as offer preventive testing like mammography and hormone-based fertility therapy. But if next door is too far, fear not. The doctors make villa calls too. oetkercollection.com w

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WALDHOTEL HEALTH & MEDICAL EXCELLENCE BÜRGENSTOCK HOTELS & RESORT

ollowing nine years of construction, the $558 million Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort complex opened in August 2017 atop Switzerland’s 3,651-foot Mount Bürgenstock. By December, the retreat high above Lake Lucerne’s southern shore had completed its fourth hotel, a medical hotel dubbed the Waldhotel Health & Medical Excellence. In addition to 160 rooms, the facility boasts a medical center and rehabilitation clinic. This revolutionary wellness center—an officially accredited hospital itself—has a multidisciplinary team of doctors, therapists, and nursing specialists. Diagnostic, therapeutic, and rehabilitative services are complemented by a range of preventative programs. “What’s unique about Waldhotel is how holistic the concept is,” says its medical director, Dr. Michael Brabetz. “Between the rehabilitation clinic and the medical center, the beauty and skincare center, the dental clinic, and the wellness area, Waldhotel offers everything under one roof.”

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Starting this spring, Bürgenstock can be reached via the scenic route (crossing the lake in a private, highspeed catamaran then rising through the pines in an electric funicular). Waldhotel prioritizes discretion with a secluded drop-off for ambulances and chauffeurs. Oak and spruce trees camouflage the building designed by Italian architect Matteo Thun and rooms are constructed from rock and timber taken from the mountain’s own limestone façade. Inside find countless opportunities to spoil yourself on the road to self-improvement. All guests commit to a minimum three-day Basic Med package that includes a thorough physical evaluating everything from lung capacity to metabolism. In between appointments, they explore hands-on, nutritionist-led lessons in healthy eating at the cooking lab and all-day dining at Verbena restaurant, where organic Mediterranean cuisine centers around the kitchen’s wood-fired oven. The menu, low in fat, ensures it won’t be to blame for the results of your abdominal ultrasound. For those whose appetites for indulgence only go skin deep, head to the hotel’s 13,000-square-foot spa. Equipped with detoxifying saunas, three swimming pools, and a team of

aestheticians trained in a full range of signature treatments from Swiss Line, Susanne Kaufmann, and SkinCeuticals, the center proffers a healthy fix of exfoliating facials rich in gustatory vices like coffee and sea salt. To indulge further, clients need not stray far. “Guests can use all the facilities of the resort, from the 107,000-squarefoot Bürgenstock Alpine Spa, to our 12 restaurants, lounges, and bars, our ice-skating rink, three tennis courts, and nine-hole golf course,” assures Dr. Brabetz. This includes the opportunity to break all the rules with fine dining at the five-star Bürgenstock Hotel. The open kitchen at the heart of Spices Kitchen & Terrace serves a spectrum of Asian cuisine in a glass-box dining room overhanging the mountain’s edge. To complement a Waldhotel program, it is advised to work up a sweat at the hotel’s overhanging, wraparound infinity pool overlooking the lake. Or there’s the Hammetschwand Lift—the highest outdoor elevator in all of Europe and a Belle Epoque wonder. The centuryold glass elevator ascends from the cliff’s edge, skyrocketing 500 feet in less than a minute as it elevates heart rates with little effort from occupants. buergenstock.ch w

Adam Robb

Lake Lucerne, Switzerland

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HÔTEL ROYAL

Évian-les-Bains, France

or centuries the natural spring waters of Évianles-Bains, France, have been nourishing wellheeled Europeans at this spa resort town at the foot of the French Alps. Since 1909, high society from Greta Garbo to Muhammed Shah Aga Khan III have flocked to the Hôtel Royal, occupying 47 acres on the southern shore of Lake Geneva. There really is something in the water because

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the hotel has never looked better following a 2015 renovation that injected a modern energy to architect JeanAlbert Hébrard’s Belle Epoque gem, including panoramic penthouse suites where guests can witness spring thaw. And now reaching the five-star getaway is even easier. This year the Hôtel Royal will introduce complimentary transport across the lake from Geneva. The iconic waters, however, still take as long as ever to reach the guests. “The water takes 15 years to travel from the Alps to the source,” says Amanda Deloncle, Hôtel Royal’s spa manager. “During its 15-year journey, the water travels through layers of glacial sand, collecting mineral properties including sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium,

and more, and is filtered naturally. What’s left is a pH-neutral water with low mineral content that is known to be good for everyone—so much so that it’s recommended for use in baby bottles.” While booking a health program isn’t a necessity at Hôtel Royal, several multiday treatments at its 12,000-square-foot, lake-view Spa Evian Source are available. All of them put to practice the resort’s long-held philosophy that wellness comes from within. Programs focus on reenergizing the body and instilling weight management with week-long slimming treatments balancing personal training sessions with lipomassages, drainage, and jet showers, plus lowcalorie menus crafted by Executive Chef Patrice Vander. Chef Vander personally

consults each guest, steering him or her away from fine dining restaurant Les Fresques’ foie gras ravioli royale and toward the lake’s fresh crayfish. For a warming touch, guests can head to Evian Les Thermes, just five minutes away from Hôtel Royal. Here, heated waters combat medical issues ranging from cellulite to digestive pain relief. Warm white clay enriched with the local water may be packed on the back to improve lumbar support or ease the cervix, while mineral-rich mud detoxifies the stomach. Just as healing is putting a little distance between you and a loved one; bonding hydrotherapy for mothers and daughters includes alone time for mothers to stretch and engage in yoga while children explore an on-site baby resort designed just to pamper infants. Beauty treatments at Les Thermes utilize products from SkinCeuticals and Thalgo, while Spa Evian Source’s signature treatment uses high-end Swiss skincare brand La Prairie’s luxury caviar products, complemented by canapés and a flute of Champagne. Even at Evian they know inner glow isn’t achieved by water alone. hotel-royal-evian.com w

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LA RÉSERVE GENÈVA

Geneva, Switzerland

f you’re on the hunt for eternal youth, commit a week to exploring Geneva’s La Réserve, an urban wellness retreat nestled in the quietude of a 10-acre park on the edge of both lake and city. Activity trumps tranquility here, as signaled the moment you enter and experience the energizing décor of French designer Jacques Garcia. Communal interiors are as buzzy as an African game reserve: candycolored birds in silhouette perched on chandeliers and sconces, a wall dotted with captured butterflies, curtains trimmed in leopard, a crackling fireplace. Indoors and out the environment spurs movement, and there’s no corridor busier than that leading to the indoor swimming pool and Nescens spa, where a dedicated medical team tackles stressors in ground-floor treatment rooms. “We are not about one-size-fits-all care or a quick fix,” says spa manager Marianna Heurtel. “We use exclusive Nescens products that have been created by Professor Jacques Proust, a pioneer in anti-aging medicine.” Heurtel oversees a range of figure-shaping treatments like lipomassage (using bio-impedance measurements to gauge target areas) and the signature La Reserve 3-in-1 (a bespoke massage that harmonizes your figure by impacting blood flow, lymphatic drainage, and bloating). “Everything here starts with a scientific committee that thoroughly examines your medical history and lifestyle habits. A nutritionist, osteopath, and aesthetic angiologist put together a program that is truly personalized. It is a 360-degree approach that is not just about a diet,” says Heurtel. Guests participating

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in the Nescens Better-Aging 7-Day Program receive their medical tests and evaluations on-site, as doctors quickly commence a course of action to coach patients on sustainable self-care once the daily bath rituals, body massages, and remodeling treatments have run their course. “We want you to lose weight, not the notion of pleasure,” adds Heurtel. Pleasure here comes in many forms, from daily sessions with a personal trainer on La Réserve’s two tennis courts to meals at the hotel’s five restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Tsé Fung, where Chef Frank Xu offers modern Cantonese cuisine like Peking duck two ways. lareserve.ch u

IMPERIAL

VIENNA

The Austrian capital blends modern living with the best of the Habsburg Empire. Photography ALEXANDER SPACHER

Upper Belvedere in the distance, framed by hollyhocks. Built between 1717 and 1723 by the architect Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt, the Baroque palace was to be used as the summer residence by Prince Eugene of Savoy. Today it is home to the worldâ€™s largest collection of Gustav Klimtâ€™s paintings and works by other Viennese masters. 182 Spring 2018

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In the late stages of his life, the sculptor Franz Xaver Messerschmidt dedicated himself primarily to a series of portraits—“portreen,” as he liked to call them—of exaggerated marble busts with uniquely expressive features. The Lecher (circa 1770) is on display at the Österreichische Galerie.

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A view of the Museumsquartier courtyard from the Leopold Museum. The interplay between the contemporary design of the Museum Moderner Kunst (mumok), the Leopold, and the Baroque architecture of the Kunsthalle Wien give the courtyard a unique ambiance.

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VIENNESE MODERNISM

2018

Celebrating the revolutionary zeal of four favorite sons. by Dena Roché

ainters Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele, architect Otto Wagner, and designer Koloman Moser are known for rebelling against tradition and ushering in the modern age for Vienna. They also all died the same year, in 1918. In celebration of the centennial of their death, the Imperial City has organized Viennese Modernism 2018 (wienermoderne2018.info), with more than two dozen exhibits and events to be held throughout the year at various venues. In the late 1890s, the four visionaries met casually at Viennese cafés and by 1897 formalized their gatherings when Klimt and Moser founded the Vienna Secession. During this movement, artists broke with the established guilds to bring their work into daily life through applied arts and functional design. Klimt, a successful artist revered by both upper society and the government, caused scandal when he veered from his formally trained style to one that dealt with emotions and taboo subjects. The Belvedere museum has the world’s largest collection of Klimt, including his famous painting The Kiss (Lovers). At the Leopold Museum, see Death and Life, which Klimt called his most important figurative work. Throughout his career, Klimt mentored young talent including Egon Schiele, who despite dying at 28 rose to become one of the most important artists of the expressionist era. The Leopold Museum houses the largest Schiele collection in the world. Among his stark, frank, and sometimes ugly works, The Hermits honors Schiele’s relationship with Klimt, depicting both himself and his mentor. Cardinal and Nun (Caress) is his dark version of Klimt’s The Kiss. Architect Otto Wagner did the most to shape the appearance of Vienna, designing the Austrian Postal Savings Bank, the Church of St. Leopold, and notable villas, as well as stations, railings, and bridges that are still part of the U4 and U6 subway lines. His buildings were revolutionary for their clean, symmetrical lines that didn’t hide their construction. Despite Wagner’s modern style, his designs still feature ornamentation in the form of floral elements and gilded façades. Koloman “Kolo” Moser was a jack-of-all-trades: product designer, illustrator, furniture craftsman, painter, and professor. To combine his talents, he cofounded the Wiener Werkstätte community of artisans. The collective fostered close collaborations between designers and craftsmen to make modern furniture, textiles, glassware, and lighting elements. Wiener Werkstätte products can be purchased in Vienna today, and the MAK—the Austrian Museum of Applied Arts/Contemporary Arts—houses the complete Wiener Werkstätte Archive. w

Judith and the Head of Holofernes, also known as Judith I (1901), is an oil painting by Gustav Klimt rendered during his “Golden Phase.” The model was the Viennese art nouveau icon and Klimt’s muse, Adele Bloch-Bauer. With a combination of femininity and masculine aggression, this femme fatale tempts the mythological subjects of Eros and Thanatos.

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Top Five Viennese Modernism Exhibitions Leopold Museum Egon Schiele: The Jubilee Show February 23–November 4 leopoldmuseum.org

Lower Belvedere Beyond Klimt: New Horizons in Central Europe March 22–August 26 belvedere.at Wien Museum Otto Wagner March 15–October 7 wienmuseum.at

Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna Stairway to Klimt: Eye to Eye with Klimt February 13–September 2 khm.at Jewish Museum Vienna The Place to Be: Salons—Spaces of Emancipation May 30–October 14 jmw.at

Vienna City Guide HOTELS The boutique Hotel Topazz, located steps from

the center of the city and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, was inspired by Koloman Moser’s cylindrical silver vase studded with precious stones. The 32 rooms feature art and furnishings influenced by the Wiener Werkstätte. hoteltopazz.com At the Park Hyatt Vienna, the décor melds gold-accented Viennese Modern design with sophisticated style. The 143-room hotel resides in a 100-year-old former bank building, where the spa occupies the former vault. parkhyattvienna.com PRIVATE GUIDES Local guides bring the Viennese Modern era

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alive, providing invaluable history, context, and insight. Here's who to book. Note: All guided tours are offered in English. w Otto Wagner and Viennese Modernism, by Alexa Brauner. alexabrauner.at. w Vienna 1900, with Marieta Teich. see-vienna.com w Gustav Klimt and His Time, at the Belvedere. Request curator Dr. Markus Fellinger. belvedere.at w The Schiele Collection, at the Leopold Museum. Request guide Marco Ricci. leopoldmuseum.org w Koloman Moser and the Wiener Werkstätte, at the MAK. Request guide Alexander Medem. mak.at w The Vienna Modern tour

Shopping with Lucie! sets clients up to find that perfect souvenir in stores they would unlikely stumble upon on their own. shoppingwithlucie.com RESTAURANTS Vienna is known

for its coffeehouse culture. Menus at most are similar, featuring traditional Austrian fare like Viennese schnitzel and the famous Sachertorte. Stop in for a hearty meal or a midday respite and sip a mélange (similar to a cappuccino) or a kleiner schwarzer (single espresso) to be inspired like the artists of the 1900s were. The coffee is arguably the best in the world, and the indifference of the waiters in black-tie is simply part of the charm. Top historic

coffeehouses in the city include Café Central (cafecentral.wien), Café Sperl (cafesperl.at), and Café Hawelka (hawelka.at). For a true epicurean experience reserve a table at Amador, which holds two Michelin stars, and delight the senses with a 10-course tasting menu by Chef Juan Amador. restaurant-amador.com Named among the 50 Best Restaurants in the World in 2017, Restaurant Steirereck is not to be missed. The family-owned restaurant featuring modern Austrian cuisine is helmed by one of Austria’s top chefs, Heinz Reitbauer. Don’t miss the tableside preparation of char cooked in hot beeswax. steirereck.com —d.r.

The gilded stucco balcony of the Palace Chapel in the upper Belvedere is dedicated exclusively to Prince Eugene. Opposite: Egon Schieleâ€™s Mother with Two Children II (1915) is an expressionistic masterpiece on display at the Leopold Museum, and is inspired by the painterâ€™s younger sister Gertrude and her painter husband, Anton Peschka. It depicts the struggles she endured during turn-ofthe-century Vienna, and was a theme that Schiele repeated many times.

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The Kunsthistorisches Museum was erected in 1871â€“1891 by Carl von Hasenauer and Gottfried Semper for the Habsburg Monarchy. The impressive main staircase is one of the pinnacles of Viennese 19th-century architecture. Hidden to the right and left at the top of the arches are paintings commissioned by Emperor Franz Joseph and carried out by Gustav Klimt, his brother Ernst, and Franz Matsch. 190 Spring 2018

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EMILIA-ROMAGNA

Bologna

Modena

BASTA PASTA

When is tortellini just another button-shaped macaroni? Never, say the traditionalists of Emilia-Romagna, Italy. A tour of the region’s food haunts puts the debate to the test.

or the tortellini grail seeker, the neighboring Italian cities of Bologna and Modena are ground zero. Their long-held Montague-Capulet relationship dates to the early Renaissance, when they skirmished and finally went to war over the day’s big question: proPope (Bologna) or pro–Holy Roman Emperor (Modena)? It has been argued that either Bologna or Modena invented tortellini. Of course, that’s not true. The laurel belongs to Castelfranco Veneto, a speck on the border between the two cities. In a dismal little piazza, Castelfranco Veneto has

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erected a sculpture marking tortellini’s creation legend: the innkeeper of the now-extinct Taverna della Corona peering through a keyhole at the goddess Venus, who had checked in with Bacchus and Mars to scope out a battle between (you guessed it) Bologna and Modena. The erotic charge led the manager to create a pasta in the shape of Venus’ belly button. Traditionally, the dish was reserved for special occasions like Christmas because the ingredients were expensive, and it is still seasonal (usually fall and winter) on restaurant menus across the Emilia-Romagna region. w

Carlo Guttadauro

by Gary Walther

A pasta in the shape of Venusâ€™ belly button (according to folklore) has caused a centuries-long debate.

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eekers after the best— but also the nuanced —tortellini have ample opportunities through both Bologna and Modena to educate their palates and name for themselves a champion dish. For such efforts to pay off, tasters must master some basics. w

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Top: Romaoslo/iStock; Bottom Left: Carlo Guttadauro; Second from Left: Kim öhrling; Bottom Right: Nikoboi

“If someone wants to honor you, they say, ‘We’re making tortellini for you,’” says Mary Beth Clark, the owner and director of Bologna’s International Cooking School of Italian Food and Wine (internationalcookingschool.com). “The way the pasta square is folded, the amount of filling and where it is placed on the square, the way the pasta corners are curved and sealed is all very, very specific,” says Clark. “It is in the folding that the signature shape of tortellino is formed. It is this folding that ensures a juicy filling. The filling should be a mild explosion of flavor and each tortellino should be its own entity.” Over the centuries, Bologna and Modena have each freighted the little paunch-pasta with their own traditions. From 2014 to 2015, Bologna and Modena invented their own tortellini mondiale called the Disfida (meaning “duel”). The event has since been folded (no pun intended) into a larger EmiliaRomagna pasta festival, but Bologna still holds its own tortellini festival in October, where over 20 different tortellini proposals are served in tastings to the public, at the Palazzo Re Enzo on one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy, the Piazza Maggiore. This year, according to Vincenzo Cappelletti, head of the Bologna consortium for the Tour-tlen (tour-tlen.it) that not only promotes but is the gatekeeper for the ingredients and the making of tortellini, 11,000 portions were served. The appetite persists.

Modenaâ€™s Piazza Grande. From far left: Chef Anna Maria Barbieri of Ristorante Antica Moka; Chef / owner Mario Ferrara (right) of Ristorante Scaccomatto; Chef Massimo Ratti of Ristorante Ponte Rosso; and Chef Lucia Antonelli of Taverna del Cacciatore.

Carlo Guttadauro

The stately dining room at Ristorante Antica Moka, located in a 19th-century country villa just outside Modena.

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Nikoboi

First, the filling: Memorize the word ripieno. In both cities it is based on an ensemble of ingredients: lomba di maiale (pork loin), prosciutto di Parma, mortadella, aged ParmigianoReggiano, and ground nutmeg. But in Bologna, the ripieno is usually raw, whereas in Modena some ingredients are sautéed first. In Bologna, the emphasis is often on the mortadella—many top restaurants use an everything-free version made by Felsineo, one of Italy’s best small makers of cured meat. In Modena, the downbeat falls on the Parmigiano and prosciutto di Parma, and the nutmeg is minimized or even dropped. (Because children don’t like the taste, according to one theorist.) Not every chef today is a tortellini traditionalist. There’s a creativi category in both Bologna and Modena, a case study in the Italian mentality—coloring outside the lines but respecting the lines themselves. Both cities hew to one commandment: The sfoglina, the woman who rolls out the pasta (sfoglia) and creates the tortellini shell, is key. A sfoglina is legendary, a repository of tradition passed down from mother to daughter. The matriarchy is so ingrained that tortellini machines, sfogliatrice, invented only in the last century are feminine nouns. Even Bolgona’s best jazz club Cantina Bentivoglio (cantinabentivoglio.it) has a sfoglina. Within vaulted chambers beneath the palace of the erstwhile ruling family of Bologna, a former chef Modenese, but whose tortellini Bolognese was fine enough to make him a 2014 Bologna Disfida finalist. The dexterousness required to close, turn, and twist the pasta is extraordinary. But above all, the

sfoglia has to be “a beautiful tissue paper,” says Antonella Rana, who runs Giovanni Rana Pastificio & Cucina (rananyc.com) in Manhattan’s Chelsea Market. That’s because the pasta’s mission is not to hold the ripieno but to dissolve in harmony with it in the mouth, a duet known as the rapporto.

fter the ripieno and sfoglina, tortellini theology gets subtle. Although there is an official tortellini recipe in the Bologna Chamber of Commerce, Max Poggi, the muscularly creative chef who oversees Bologna’s Al Cambio (ristorantealambio.it), says, “It doesn’t really exist.” Meaning, there is no grail, which he proves by serving tortellini filled with artichoke in a resonant, celloregister broth of scampi, and then turning around and serving another tortellini with the traditional ripieno (with 10 percent chicken) in a capon broth turbocharged with beef and chicken. On a grail quest, Poggi’s remains a benchmark. He is now the chef at Ristorante Massimiliano Poggi (mpoggi.it) just outside Bologna, where the emphasis is on cucina creativi. On one of the key questions of tortellini theology, Poggi weighs in on the correct size, with the Rule of Seven: Seven rightly sized tortellini should fit in the bowl of a soup spoon, the proper cutlery for tortellini. “I still prefer my grandma’s to the one we make,” he admits. That the best tortellini is made by home cooks can be tested by booking a lunch through Le Cesarine (cesarine.it), an association of women (currently more than 400 in Italy) who offer guests a dinner of traditional local or regional recipes a casa.

Cesarine, the feminine of Caesar, refers to a woman who can do many domestic tasks well. One such host, Luisa Mambelli, welcomes guests in a living room worthy of a shelter magazine, and then involves them in making tortellini at the dining room table. The ripieno is a standard porkmortadella-prosciutto-nutmeg mix, and Mambelli effortlessly rolls out the sfoglia—first cutting a shallow sign of the cross in the ball of dough. Guests can try to keep up with her in folding the tortellini,

MANGIA!

MANGIA! Where to eat the best tortellini in Italy Bologna and Environs Antica Trattoria di Sacerno sacerno.it Cantina Bentivoglio cantinabentivoglio.it Acqua Pazza acquapazzabologna.it Taverna Del Cacciatore tavernadelcacciatore.com Ristorante Ponte Rosso ristoranteponterosso.com Ristorante Scaccomatto ristorantescaccomatto.com Castelfranco Veneto Ristorante La Lumira ristorantelumira.com Modena and Environs Ristorante Antica Moka anticamoka.it Osterio Stallo Del Pomodoro Modeno stallodelpomodoro.it Trattoria Del Campazzo trattoriadelcampazzo.it Antica Trattoria Ponte Guerro ponteguerro.it Ristorante Strada Facendo ristorantestradafacendo.it

which is served in a traditional capon broth. This is a comfort tortellini, polished but without restaurant flash, and deeply satisfying: a grail within reach of the dedicated home cook. Modenese chefs are more inclined to gussy the ripieno, adding veal, salsiccie (sausage), even egg “to amalgamate it,” says Anna Maria Barbieri, a centralcasting nonna and the chef at Ristorante Antica Moka (antica moka.it), a stately dining room in a 19th-century country villa just outside Modena. But the recipe comes from her Nonna Sarita, and Barbieri says that her standard is “my head and my heart.”

n both cities, straying from orthodoxy is often justified with a shrug and the phrase “That’s how my nonna did it.” Which is exactly what Massimiliano Telloli of Osteria Stallo del Pomodoro Modena (stallodelpomodoro .it), who specializes in gluten-free tortellini (more difficult to make because the dough dries faster), exclaims as the cloves go into his ripieno. The tortellini turns out to be like the chef: calm, composed, and nuanced (that little lash of clove). Chefs can cast one ingredient as the star, as Gianluca Soncini at Trattoria del Campazzo (trattoria delcampazzo.it) in Nonantola, north of Modena, does: His tortellini are little comets of mortadella and nutmeg, with the prosciutto in the wings. The 2014 Disfida runner-up, Claudia Ricchi of Antica Trattoria Ponte Guerro (ponte guerro.it), southeast of Modena, doesn’t even use lomba di maiale but amps the taste with 42-month-aged ParmigianoReggiano, which is uncommon. She has sanction: The recipe is her Nonna’s. Lucia Antonelli, the firecracker

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behind Taverna del Cacciatore (tavernadelcacciatore.com), an hour south of Bologna in Castiglione dei Pepoli, even banishes a traditional cast member, prosciutto, “because the taste is too strong for a dish so delicate.” She sautés the maiale quickly with butter and then adds the already-cooked mortadella and asserts along the way. The key ingredient is her 100-year-old rolling pin, which produces small bollini, or bubbles, in the dough. The result is a mild and balanced tortellini. An “equilibri di sapori,” she says, adding that banishing the prosciutto is a key move because its taste can change so much during the curing whereas maiale and mortadella are more manageable. Antonelli’s tortellini melts in the mouth at a stately pace: She won the Disfida championship two years in a row. First in the 2014 Disfida, Carlo Alberto Borsarini makes tortellini a many-chaptered short story on the palate. The voltage remains at his Ristorante La Lumira (ristorante lumira.com), a beam-and-tile dining room hiding in a quotidian apartment building just outside the center. The pillars in the dining room are from his grandmother’s 12th-century house. Francesco Carboni of Bologna’s Acqua Pazza (acquapazzabologna .it) is one of the few chefs who has actually fiddled with the ripieno. He won the 2015 Disfida’s creativi category for his tortellini filled with stingray, mozzarella, anchovies, and zest of Sorrento lemons and cooked in butter and truffle. Some chefs push the capon broth offstage in favor of a topping, while leaving the traditional ripieno intact. Mario Ferrara of Ristorante Scaccomatto (ristoran tescaccomatto.com), a storefront restaurant on a lovely, arcaded

Bologna side street, tops his tortellini with a tangy, lemongrassand-cheese sauce. (It’s an off-menu item—in Italian, fuori menu—so request it when you book.) Dario Picchiotti of Antica Trattoria di Sacerno (sacerno.it) marries the traditional ripieno to a smoked broth with capers and celery, because “I wanted to give my tortellino an international dress.” (It is also an off-menu dish, available by request.) Even Massimo Ratti of Ristorante Ponte Rosso (ristoranteponte rosso.com), the Don Quixote of tortellini and notorious for his tortellini in strawberry sauce topped with aged coffee grounds, thinks that chefs should “be creative within the classical tradition.” The sfoglia is made by his mother, the ParmigianoReggiano is aged 36 months, the recipe is the prosciuttomortadella-pork melody, and the dish itself, which could have easily become a novelty item, is excellent. The strawberry sauce is subtle, a light nap of fruit, but it’s the aged coffee grounds that provide the astounding kicker. (The restaurant is 20 minutes by taxi from the center of Bologna.) It is at the one-Michelin-star Ristorante Strada Facendo (ristorantestradafacendo.it) in Modena that tortellini on the frontier exists. Grail seekers at this restaurant are not in Kansas anymore. One of Emilio Barbieri’s versions is tortellini cooked in capon broth but served dry on a 36-month-old cream of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Another is cooked in a broth of kombu seaweed and balsamic vinegar. Both preparations are delectable finger foods, which echoes the independence Barbieri implies in the restaurant’s name, “the road I’m taking.” 

Tortellini from Lucia Antonelli, who won the highly regarded Disfida championship two years in a row.

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French Foreign Legion The Louvre Abu Dhabi leads the charge of new initiatives by Franceâ€™s decorated museums.

Mohamed Somji

by Jason Edward Kaufman

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statecraft that not only would enrich French museums but also strengthen ties between the Arab world and the West. Differing opinions aside, the new Louvre is intended as a wonder of the modern world. Abu Dhabi reportedly spent more than $700 million to build the complex that in aerial photographs looks like a spaceship hovering on the edge of the Arabian Sea. Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, the building is covered by a dome, 590 feet in diameter, that rests on four columns above a village of 55 white stone buildings. Steel and aluminum star shapes form the shell’s latticework to create what’s called the “Rain of Light” effect, allowing rays of sunlight to dapple the walls and pavement by day and make some 7,850 star shapes visible by night. The dome protects visitors from the searing desert heat, and avenues beneath the dome lead to views of the turquoise sea. Extraordinary architecture aside, the real wonder here is the existence of an art history museum in a country aged fewer than 50 years. The region was divided among seven independent tribes focused on camel herding, date farming, fishing, and pearl diving—until the discovery of oil in 1958. By 1971, the ruler of Abu Dhabi, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, had consolidated the kingdoms and established the United

Arab Emirates. Abu Dhabi continues to control most of the UAE’s oil reserves, nearly 10 percent of the world’s supply, and has one of the largest per capita GDPs in the world. As the price for oil has declined, the UAE has developed infrastructure and industry, created campuses for Western universities, and established retail and cultural attractions to drive tourism. The cultural centerpiece of Abu Dhabi’s multibillion-dollar plan for its future is Saadiyat Island, the site of the Louvre Abu Dhabi. Plans for the 10-square-mile Saadiyat (which means “happiness”) Cultural District (saadiyat.ae) call for residences, hotels, and golf courses—some of which have already opened—and a cluster of museums designed by leading architects. The idea is to create a so-called “Bilbao effect” in the gulf, with the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi designed by Frank Gehry, the Zayed National Museum by Norman Foster, a maritime museum by Tadao Ando, and a performing arts center by the late Zaha Hadid’s firm. Although it’s been a decade since the plan was announced and construction of the others has barely begun, Abu Dhabi’s Tourism Development and Investment Company, which has overseen planning, vows to complete them. Backed by the world’s second-largest sovereign wealth

Mohamed Somji

hen Abu Dhabi, the oil-rich capital of the United Arab Emirates, decided to rebrand as a culture and tourism destination, the city sought a partnership with the most celebrated and most visited museum in the world. In 2007 the French state agreed to develop what would be called the Louvre Abu Dhabi (louvreabudhabi.ae), providing curatorial services and training, loans of artwork from major French museums, and advice on building a permanent collection. The museum, which opened in November 2017, is not technically a branch of the French flagship but an Emirati institution managed by French experts that will carry the Louvre name for 30 years. For all of this, Abu Dhabi is paying the French a stunning $1 billion. When plans were announced—shortly after the Guggenheim Museum signed a similar agreement for a fraction of that sum—the French intelligentsia blasted the scheme as a commercial sellout to petrodollars that would sully the dignity of French high culture. Another concern was whether freedom of expression could exist in a conservative Islamic theocracy often cited for censorship. Others saw the collaboration as an inspired act of

Jason Edward Kaufman

fund, estimated at more than $800 billion, money is not the obstacle here. Funding certainly did not hinder acquisitions for the permanent collection at the new Louvre. The UAE announced recently that it was the buyer of Leonardo da Vinci’s Salvator Mundi, which made headlines in late 2017 as the most expensive artwork ever sold. Christie’s auctioned the painting in New York for $450 million (including fees). The heavily restored work may be a poor cousin to Mona Lisa, but the expenditure provided ample publicity for the new museum and indicates that Abu Dhabi will be a fierce contender in the art market going forward. The museum and its growing collection demonstrate Abu Dhabi’s ambition to become a modern international city. Still, the 600-plus artworks on display—about half from the Louvre and other French and Middle Eastern museums, and the rest recent acquisitions by Abu Dhabi—are no more numerous or remarkable than the collections of hundreds of museums around the world. (By comparison, the Metropolitan Museum in New York and the Louvre in Paris display tens of thousands of objects at a time.) The quality of art is relatively high, but an ad hoc assortment of objects within 65,000 square feet of total exhibition

space cannot narrate the sweep of art history from antiquity to the present. The attempt is a thematic approach, divided into 12 chapters with titles like “Civilizations and Empires,” “The World in Perspective,” and “From the Mediterranean to the Atlantic.” These broad categories allow curators to yoke together objects from disparate cultures and periods, such as in the introductory gallery, where glass cases hold trios of items from different civilizations: sculptures of mother with child from Egypt, Europe, and West Africa; equestrian statuettes from China, Iran, and Cyprus; and gold funerary masks from ancient China, Syria, and Peru. Cursory information on labels makes it difficult to learn much about the objects but serves to draw attention to the main idea: World cultures are linked by common threads. A dramatic expression of this notion occurs in a later chapter dubbed “Universal Religions,” where examples of the Torah, Buddhist Sutras, and the Quran are spotlighted in a darkened space. Manuel Rabaté, the museum’s French director, describes the new Louvre as “the first universal museum of the Arab world.” A tagline in advertisements reads, “We live by the same light.” While officials have emphasized the benefits of mutual exploration of shared values, the

diplomatic dimension of the project was not lost on the French. Directly across the water from the museum is a massive French naval base, one of several military installations in the UAE that enable France to exert its influence in the region. The hope is that the presence and appreciation of Western masterpieces in the Arab world can have an even greater impact over the long-term. As yet, the museum displays few modern works by Emirati artists: mainly photographic pieces by Hassan Sharif. One hope of the new Louvre’s broad acquisition strokes is that exposure to works from cultures around the world will stimulate new directions in Emirati art. Emirati officials believe the new museum will attract local audiences and visitors from neighboring Dubai, as well as growing numbers of tourists from abroad. Abu Dhabi offers myriad attractions to this end, including the Ferrari World amusement park, a Grand Prix race hosted annually since 2009, the opulent Emirates Palace hotel, and the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. The mosque, which opened in 2007, is a gleaming white and gold structure with 80 domes modeled on the Taj Mahal’s, a floral inlaid marble pavement, 1,000 columns, and the world’s largest carpet. w

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On the Home Front Art shrines have popped up across France.

INTERNATIONAL CENTER FOR CAVE ART

Top and Middle: Luc Boegly + Sergio Grazia: Bottom: Eric Sol

he renowned cave paintings of Lascaux in Montignac, discovered in 1940 and first opened to the public in 1948, are among our most compelling windows onto prehistoric human life. The images of wild animals were created 20,000 years ago, rendered in black, yellow, and red pigment, or incised into the stone walls and ceiling of the cavern. The astonishing murals attracted millions of visitors before archaeologists realized that breath and body heat were degrading the art. As such, the cave was closed in 1963, and 20 years later a facsimile opened on the site. Located adjacent to the original, it did not prevent further contamination. A second subterranean replica, Lascaux II, opened in 2016 a half-mile away. Now family-friendly tours include directive lighting and interpretation in six languages. The atmosphere in the half-buried building at the foot of Lascaux hill is kept dark and humid to enhance the authenticity of the experience, light and sound effects re-create the prehistoric environment, and digital tools help analyze the superimposed compositions. A temporary exhibition space brings contemporary art into relationship with the origins of image-making. lascaux.fr

YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM PARIS

lthough the chance to shop for the latest Yves Saint Laurent creations on the premises of the former couture house (1974–2002) at 5 Avenue Marceau has passed, one haute couture salon as well as Yves Saint Laurent’s studio have been kept intact and are now part of the museum, which opened in October 2017. Galleries present rotating displays of Saint Laurent’s work— outfits, accessories, sketches, and photographs—along with videos about his life and career. Visitors can admire a cocktail dress inspired by Mondrian, and an embroidered jacket inspired by van Gogh. Saint Laurent—whose pea coats, pant suits, and trench coats adapted male fashion to empower women—systematically archived everything he made: some 5,000 garments, 15,000 accessories, and countless drawings and photographs. When he died in 2008, he left everything to a foundation run by Pierre Bergé, his life and business partner. The sale of the Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé art collection fetched approximately $440 million at Christie’s in 2009. Part of this amount was given to an endowment fund that financed research against AIDS. Another part enabled the foundation to carry on with its missions to preserve and promote Yves Saint Laurent’s work. museeyslparis.com

INTERNATIONAL CENTER FOR TAPESTRY

Middle: Beatrice Hatala

he small city of Aubusson in central France is renowned for the royal tapestry workshop that Louis XIV established there in 1665. In 1982, the Department of Creuse founded a tapestry museum, and decided to expand it after UNESCO in 2009 declared tapestry part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage. The expanded museum opened in 2016 in the former National School of Decorative Arts and is part of the International Center of Tapestry, a complex that traces the global history of the craft, celebrates the changing style of local weaving over six centuries, and teaches tapestry making. Visitors can see tools and implements used by weavers, view ancient tapestries from around the world, discover the workshop where the latest Aubusson creations are being woven on a 26-foot-wide loom such as the first-ever Tolkien tapestries, and design their own digital tapestries via touch screen. The centerpiece of the museum is a series of rooms tracing the history of Aubusson tapestry through immersive period-room-style installations that evoke the splendor of aristocratic interiors. The first piece in this chronology is the Millefleur with the unicorn (1480), the oldest known Aubusson tapestry, followed by a range of narrative and mythological ensembles. The circuit culminates with modern-era tapestries designed by Picasso, Braque, Man Ray, Calder, and others. cite-tapisserie.fr w Spring 2018 205

FRANCOAMERICAN MUSEUM, CHÂTEAU DE BLÉRANCOURT

elebrating the relationship between France and the United States, this museum in northern France was founded by Anne Morgan, a daughter of J.P. Morgan, following the First World War. The project was shuttered in 2005, in need of a multimillion-dollar renovation. Recent fundraising efforts from US donors and the French Ministry of Culture reopened the collection to the public in June 2017. Historic documents, memorabilia, and photographs explore several centuries of Franco-American relations, organized into three thematic sections: “The Influence of the Enlightenment and the American Revolution,” “Two World Wars,” and “The Arts.” Fine art galleries showcase French artists depicting American subjects, beginning with carved busts of American presidents by 18th-century sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon, as well as French portrayals of Native Americans, baseball, and New York. Representing American artists who studied or worked in France are paintings by Childe Hassam, John Singer Sargent, and Alexander Calder, as well as a poster advertising Jazz Age dancer Josephine Baker’s first tour in France. The inter-cultural alliance also extends to the museum’s grounds, where Gardens of the New World cultivate species native to America replete with a field of red, white, and blue flowers. museefrancoamericain.fr

INTERNATIONAL CITY OF GASTRONOMY LYON

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When UNESCO designated French cuisine part of intangible world patrimony, the French government decided to create a series of culinary cultural attractions. One in Tours is devoted to the science of food, one in Paris-Rungis explores iconic French cuisine, another in Dijon focuses on wine, and the International City of Gastronomy in Lyon is slated to open in July 2019 as a comprehensive survey of the art of eating. With 4,000 restaurants (one for every 334 inhabitants), many of them Michelin-starred, Lyon has long been associated with the delights of the table. The museum will take visitors on a world tour of alimentation—its history, products, refinement, healthfulness, and style. Still under development, the project will include exhibitions, cultural events, cooking demonstrations, and restaurants, promising to immerse visitors in a pedagogical and sensorial experience that engages taste, touch, and smell. According to officials, the organizing themes include “the art of table” and “better eating to live better,” but the thread that runs through the institution is “pleasure.” grand-hotel-dieu.com u

Middle: Thomas Boivin

JOAN OF ARC MEMORIAL

s a 13-year-old in the 15th century, Joan of Arc heard the voices of saints commanding her to lead the future king of France to Reims to be crowned and to liberate the French from English rule. The authorities took her seriously, enlisting her to spearhead an army in Orleans, but she was later captured and sold to the English who convicted her of heresy and burned her at the stake. A 3-year-old museum devoted to Joan’s story is situated in the 14thcentury Archbishop’s Palace in Normandy’s capital Rouen, and uses audio-visual techniques to explore the myths that have risen since her canonization. A holographic docent—a jurist who oversaw the posthumous trial that overturned her conviction—guides visitors through exhibits in the Romanesque and Gothic crypts, the former kitchen, and other spaces in the historic palace. Projections of actors read actual testimony from the trial, part of which took place in the same building that houses the museum. A concluding section on Joan’s legacy, dubbed the “Mythothèque” (myth and médiathèque, or multimedia library), assembles reproductions of works of art, films, and objects inspired by the Maid of Orleans. www.historialjeannedarc.fr

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ADVENTURE

SCREEN SHOTS

The big five film festivals offer an entertainment spectacle for everyone, from fervent cinephiles to occasional movie-goers alike.

Cannes Film Festival

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Francois Durand/Getty Images; Connie Tsang

by Codie Steensma

TORONTO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL CANADA Since its founding in 1976, the audience-focused, open-to-the-public screenings of the Toronto festival have brought all the cards to the table. The awards season does not fully kick off until news from Toronto arrives in early September. An eager, passionate, and discerning audience with a local vibe keeps the tradition of heckling the ads at the beginning of a film. Toronto showcases work from more than 80 countries across genres and has developed helpful programs, like Midnight Madness, Contemporary World Cinema, and the Discovery program to guide viewers’ choices. NEXT SHOWING: September 6–16, 2018; tiff.net

Notable Premieres Juno; I, Tonya; Molly’s Game; Silver Linings Playbook

All images courtesy of the manufacturers

The Scene There’s something for everyone, and all are allowed. Extracurriculars Stroll through Festival Street (a promenade filled with free programming, activations, and screenings), spend the day among High Park’s 400 manicured acres, or go shopping along Ossington Avenue or in the Kensington Market and Yorkville neighborhoods. Boutiques such as Want Apothecary (wantapothecary.com) and Jonathan+Olivia (jonathanandolivia.com) sell interesting Canadian brands alongside major contemporary labels like Acne, Isabel Marant, and Maison Margiela. Dining hot spots include producer Ivan Reitman–owned Montecito Restaurant (montecitorestaurant.ca), Cactus Club Cafe (cactusclubcafe.com) for casual fine dining, Canadian gastropub Marben Restaurant (marbenrestaurant.com), and Fring’s (fringsrestaurant.com) for upscale comfort food. For a warm, romantic evening, Café Cancan (cafecancan.com) serves French fare and Bar Isabel (barisabel.com) has become an institution with its trendy Spanish food and prime peoplewatching. On the newer side, both La Banane (labanane.ca) for contemporary French food and California cool La Palma Toronto (lapalma.ca) are standouts. When it comes to cocktails, go for Grey Gardens (greygardens.ca). w

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CANNES FILM FESTIVAL FRANCE Since its inception in 1946, Cannes has reigned as king of the international film circuit. The invitation-only event welcomes industry professionals who may have waited their entire lives to queue for the potential winner of the Palme d’Or—the festival’s most prestigious prize. Cannes winners rarely go on to win at the Oscars, but the films are no less worthy. Entries have expanded to include virtual reality projects, such as last year’s awardwinning Alejandro G. Iñárritu installation Carne y Arena, chronicling immigrants crossing the Mexico-US border. This year the festival has appointed Cate Blanchett as the President of the Jury. The actress notably attended in 2015 for her role in Carol, directed by Todd Haynes, which did go on to receive six Academy Award nominations. NEXT SHOWING: May 8–19, 2018; festival-cannes.com

Notable Premieres Blue Is the Warmest Color; The Tree of Life; The Pianist; Apocalypse Now The Scene A-list stars, baby-wonder directors, and the international youth elite flaunting Chanel gowns, megayachts, and Lamborghinis Extracurriculars Overnight at the seaside Hotel Le Majestic (hotelsbarriere. com). Stroll the Promenade de la Croisette and shop in boutiques along the Rue d’Antibes before a latenight showing at the Cinéma de la Plage, the festival’s public, outdoor cinema. Always pack a pair of K. Jacques Tropezienne sandals, a wardrobe staple for chic Parisiennes. Restaurant La Môme (lamomecannes.com), a romantic setting to enjoy quality burrata and octopus, is key for spotting actresses after a night of screenings. If you like surprises, visit La Table du Chef (tableduchef.fr) for a fourcourse meal decided by the chef ’s daily market finds. Art space La Malmaison has rotating exhibitions of artists like Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall who, looking to get away from the bustle of Paris in the 20th century, would travel down to Nice and Antibes. Traces of their artistic influence can still be seen along the Riviera. For a worthy day trip, spend an afternoon at Four Seasons Grand-Hotel du CapFerrat (fourseasons.com), hire an UberCopter (uber.com) to fly to Monaco for a day of gambling, or take a 15-minute ferry to the Lérins Islands. w

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Left: Andreas Renz/Getty Images; Bottom Right: Michelcramer/iStock

Clockwise from center: The red carpet; Four Seasons Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat; UberCopter flights.

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VENICE INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL ITALY On the island Lido in the Venice Lagoon, the oldest of film festivals began in 1932. More recently Venice has been a lucky charm for Americans, premiering Oscar contender after Oscar contender. The question at hand: Does the Academy more closely align with the festival’s choices, or has the festival’s powers of discernment surpassed Cannes? The event screens a range of genres out of competition as well as experimental films and, like Cannes, has introduced virtual reality. While the lines can be long and crowded, they are not as impossible as the masses at Cannes. NEXT SHOWING: August 29–September 8, 2018; labiennale.org

Notable Premieres Birdman; Gravity; La La Land; The Shape of Water; Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri The Scene High-art aficionados, fashionistas, and wine lovers at large Extracurriculars The most important restaurants on Lido are Trattoria Favorita (+39.041.526.1626) and Trattoria Andri (+39.041.526.5482), both serving excellent fish and white wines. Before dinner enjoy an Aperol spritz at Lion’s Bar (Lungomare Marconi 31), which has a terrace overlooking the red carpet. Should you want to haunt Hemingway, visit his favorite Bar Longhi at the renovated Gritti Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel (thegrittipalace.com). The beach is never far so rent a capanno or lettino across from festival headquarters the Palazzo del Cinema and sleep off the drinks. For contemporary art, stop by Palazzo Fortuny (fortuny. visitmuve.it) and appreciate Old World masterpieces at the churches Chiesa di San Sebastiano and I Gesuiti. To rub elbows with actors, try Harry’s Bar (cipriani.com), with its famous guestbook entries from the likes of Charlie Chaplin. Hotel Bauer Venezia’s B Bar Lounge (bauervenezia.com) hosts live music throughout the festival. w

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Top Left: ANDREA AVEZZU; Bottom Right: Alessandro Borghi; Top Right: Piere Bonbon/Alamy Stock Photo

Clockwise from top left: Festival headquarters; Palazzo Fortuny; Venice Film Festival Director Alberto Barbera; Gritti Palace on the Grand Canal.

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Clockwise from right: The red carpet; La Banca Bar at Hotel De Rome; the cityâ€™s cultural center, Berlin Kulturforum.

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BERLIN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL GERMANY Dubbed the Berlinale, the festival kicked off in 1951 with Alfred Hitchcock’s Rebecca and a founding motto that all film festivals should contribute to better understanding between nations and support development of the art of film and the film industry. The event has grown to be the world’s largest film festival for the public: The 2017 iteration saw more than 21,000 professionals from 127 countries and sold approximately 334,000 tickets. Drawing Hollywood stars alongside art, business, and fashion personalities, audiences are avid, lively, and eclectic. For the first time in the festival’s history, the 2018 Berlinale opened with an animated film—Wes Anderson’s Isle of Dogs. The event prides itself as a major marketplace for the international film industry and, with the help of the European Film Market, it provides space for new encounters and collaborations. Beyond the Berlinale, this city of cineastes hosts film competitions and festivals all year long, including the Berlin Fashion Film Festival in July, the Short Film Festival June 28–July 1, and Down Under Berlin in September. NEXT SHOWING: February 2019; berlinale.de

Notable Premieres Rebecca; Rain Man; The Grand Budapest Hotel; Logan

Top Left: Iain Masterton/Alamy Stock Photo; Right: Sandra Weller

The Scene Gallery-goers, legendary nightclub enthusiasts, and organic coffee gurus Extracurriculars Berlin has some of the greatest museums in the world, and many are located near the festival venue. Walk over to the Berlin Kulturforum (kulturforum-berlin.info), a collection of modernist buildings housing museums, concert halls, and libraries. The city has its own Museum Island nestled in the Spree river in the central Mitte district. Explore its five museums and then walk along Unter den Linden boulevard, which runs from City Palace to Brandenburg Gate. Actors, actresses, and VIPs frequent Vox restaurant inside the Grand Hyatt Berlin (berlin.grand. hyatt.com) and the two-Michelin-star restaurant Facil (facil.de). There’s an excellent street food market during the festival, offering everything from Korean soul food to noodles from the Swabia region in southern Germany. Other foodie highlights include Peruvian eatery Chicha Berlin (chicha-berlin.de), the indulgent brunch at The Store Kitchen (thestores.com), the hummus plate at Kanaan (kanaan-berlin.de), and the local favorite for ice cream, Jones (jonesicecream.com). Berliner Prater Garten (pratergarten.de) is the city’s oldest biergarten, with capacity for 600 people. A quieter evening can be had at Hotel De Rome’s La Banca Bar (roccofortehotels.com) or Neue Odessa Bar (neueodessabar.de). w

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SUNDANCE FILM FESTIVAL PARK CITY, UTAH Hosting both dramatic and documentary competitions for American and international independent filmmakers, the festival has been notorious for taking risks since its inception in 1985 and has grown to be the largest independent film festival in the United States. Sundance Institute, a nonprofit organization supporting film, theater, and new media, was founded in 1981 by Robert Redford. The festival attracts edgy, indie sensations and 2018 was no exception. Taking a top Grand Jury Prize this year was The Miseducation of Cameron Post, a coming-of-age story featuring Chloë Grace Moretz as a young girl forced into a gay conversion therapy center. Sundance has long supported female-directed work, and this year’s lineup saw many films by and about women, including Toni Collette starring in Hereditary, Laura Dern in The Tale, and Maggie Gyllenhaal in The Kindergarten Teacher. NEXT SHOWING: January 24–February 4, 2019; sundance.org

Notable Premieres Whiplash; Reservoir Dogs; Fruitvale Station; Manchester by the Sea The Scene Indie veterans, ski enthusiasts, and an all-around friendly crowd Extracurriculars Sundance is known as one of the best weeks for skiing local mountains because the slopes are empty while everyone is mingling and watching movies. Find some of the best snow in the United States at Deer Valley Resort (deervalley.com); Park City Mountain Resort (parkcitymountain.com) is the largest ski resort in North America. On Main Street, built like the rest of downtown during a 19thcentury silver mining boom, stop in Wahso (wahso.com) for its 1930s Shanghaiinspired interiors and French and Asian classics. Then walk a couple of blocks over to the High West Distillery (highwest.com) to taste local whiskeys.

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Clockwise from top left: Screening films; movie camera ice sculpture; one of numerous discussion panels; a fireworks display.

(Opposite) Top Left: Jonathan Hickerson; Top Right: Sundance Institute | Brandon Cruz; Middle Right: Sundance Institute; Bottom Right: Eric Schramm Photography. (This page) Michael Loccisano/Getty Images; Middle: Ann Alva Wieding; Bottom: Merrick Chase

SMALL BUT MIGHTY Three more intimate fests worth noting

THE NEW YORK FILM FESTIVAL Manhattan Highlighting the year’s best in world cinema as well as new talent since it opened at Lincoln Center in 1963, this festival is for anyone unable to make it to Cannes, Venice, Berlin, and the others. For spectators, New York remains the surest way to view many of the year’s most important films. Last year’s program included Call Me by Your Name, Lady Bird, and Mudbound. A large number of Cannes-debuted films are screened here, including 2017’s Wonderstruck and The Square. It’s important to give items a standing ovation, and almost everyone stays for the Q&A sessions after screenings. NEXT SHOWING: September 28–October 14, 2018; filmlinc.org SOUTH BY SOUTHWEST Austin, Texas Continually growing in size and scale, SXSW aims to bring together film, interactive media, advertising, and music. Mixing major motion pictures with small indies and attendees looking to network with others hoping to learn, the festival maintains a charmingly casual feel. The 25th edition will open with Emily Blunt’s and John Krasinski’s horror film A Quiet Place. Last year opened with the director Terrence Malick’s love story Song to Song. While the festival is highly explorative, showcasing technological advances by prominent startups in the tech sector, the film selections remain the most rewarding.

From top: A conversation with Kate Winslet at The New York Film Festival; a South by Southwest marquee; outdoor screening at Telluride Film Festival.

NEXT SHOWING: March 9–18, 2018; sxsw.com TELLURIDE FILM FESTIVAL Colorado Held over Labor Day weekend since 1973 against a backdrop of formidable mountains and abundant stars, the laid-back festival is a film geek’s best-kept secret and a favorite of American film critics. It keeps to an informal tradition that eligible films must be shown for the first time in North America. Impressive past premieres include Brokeback Mountain, The Imitation Game, and Moonlight. Some may deem them kooky, but the festival and its opinionated critics have discovered some of the best avant-garde works of our time. NEXT SHOWING: August 31–September 3, 2018; telluridefilmfestival.org u Spring 2018 217

GUITAR PICKING A series of instruments based on the most sought-after prewar acoustics is keeping a rare sound from going silent.

he 1930s was an exceptionally good decade for guitar making in Nazareth, Pennsylvania. The borough’s C.F. Martin & Co (martinguitar.com) created acoustics with exquisite tone and extraordinary volume that played better than anything else and could not be replicated. These so-called “prewar guitars” became to guitar lovers what Stradivarius is to violinists—and in the world of Americanmade instruments, none is more sought after or revered. Recently, a 1930s D-45 Martin sold for $350,000. In 2004, Christie’s auctioned Eric Clapton’s 1939 OOO-42 Martin for $791,500. (The fact that Clapton recorded 1990s hit “Tears in Heaven” on the guitar sweetened the deal.) Martin made several models in the 1930s, including the small OO Series and the iconic D Series. The largebodied and powerful D Series was first introduced in 1916 and named after a battleship called the HMS Dreadnought. Made famous by bluegrass guitar players and country music acts of the ’30s, ’40s, and ’50s, the D-28 became a standard by which all guitars were measured. As Martin continued to grow after WWII, customers requested D-28s that could replicate the tone and the power of vintage instruments. But Martin couldn’t crack the code.

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“It was evolutionary, not revolutionary,” says Tim Teel, director of instrument design at Martin. The company did all sorts of tinkering over the years, but nothing clicked until Teel discovered the hidden magic behind the glue used in the 1930s. “Back then we used animal, or hide glue,” says Teel. Modern instruments, however, are bonded with aliphatic resin glues like Titebond and Elmer’s, used extensively in woodworking. When Teel was initially skeptical of the hide glue concept, he consulted legendary guitar shop owner George Gruhn of Gruhn Guitars (guitars.com) in Nashville, Tennessee. Gruhn sent Teel to his repairman and, sure enough, the worker told Teel he thought the hide glue made a huge difference in how older instruments perform sonically. “Nobody uses hide glue anymore because it’s very difficult to work with,” says Teel. “You have to have your mixture correct, you have to have your gram strength correct, and you have to preheat your parts. If any of those three steps is wrong, you won’t have good adhesion and you’ll have manufacturing defects.” Back at the Martin factory, Teel dug into the company’s archives and uncovered a 1930s recipe for hide glue. He also visited the company’s in-house

John Sterling Ruth

by Evan McGlinn

Martin D-45S, 1936

museum for a 1937 D-28. An x-ray of the instrument precisely measured every internal component—like bracing placement and thickness. Martin also copied the gloss recipe from its archives and developed its Vintage Gloss finish. Tone System is used on soundboards and bracing for the Authentic Series guitar by using a process called torrefaction to speed up the aging process. Wood is baked in a vacuum that extracts excess moisture and other wood components. Martin made several exact prototypes and, Teel says, “It was apparent that the animal hide glue made a very noticeable difference. Regular glue is strong but flexible. Hide glue is brittle, which transmits energy throughout the guitar without dampening the sound of the instrument.” Dubbed the Authentic Series and launched in 2006, the guitars produce a sound just like that of a 1930s model. “Martin is making extremely good guitars now,” says Gruhn, “and they are being made with a great deal of precision and handwork.” The Authentic Series is not made in the regular production line of the main factory but by a separate team of craftsmen in the company’s Custom Shop. Currently, Martin makes 15 Authentic Series models, all based on instruments in its museum. The 1937 D-28 Authentic ($6,900) is less ornate than the Authentic replica of the more ornate 1936 D-45S ($60,000)—and a bargain compared to the cost of a vintage guitar. w

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MARTIN’S HOLY GRAIL Perhaps the most priceless Martin guitar on the planet is the 1935 D-28, belonging to American musician Tony Rice. Bluegrass fans know that Rice is one of the finest flatpicking guitar players of all time and particularly gifted in progressive “newgrass” jazz styles, playing alongside legendary mandolinist David Grisman. Rice’s D-28 is serial number 58957 and it was originally owned by another legendary bluegrass guitar player named Clarence White, who went on to be a famous electric lead player for The Byrds. Pumpkin orange with age, the guitar has been through the wringer over the years and even has a crudely enlarged sound hole that looks like it was carved with a pen knife. It was in bad shape when White bought it in the late 1950s for about $25 and subsequently made it famous with his innovative syncopated fiddle-tune guitar style. Clarence got so frustrated with its high action and challenging playability, he took it outside one day and shot it with a pellet gun (the repaired hole remains in the top to this day). Later, after a gig in Cambridge, Massachusetts, he accidentally ran over it. Clarence sold the guitar in 1965 so he could concentrate on electric music with his Fender Telecaster. Rice bought it years later for just $550 and it survived being submerged underwater during a hurricane in 1993 in Crystal River, Florida. In a 2007 article by Art Dudley in The Fretboard Journal, Rice recalled, “It didn’t sound like itself for five years, at least.” He finally got it fixed by master repairman Snuffy Smith who completely reglued all the internal back bracing at a couple of top braces. Today, the guitar looks like hell but plays better than ever. Sadly, Rice is in poor health and hasn’t played in years. What it would sell for is anyone’s guess. Says Dudley, “Tony will probably give it to his brother Wyatt. But if not, there is a long line of Japanese industrialists willing to pay him over seven figures for it.”

John Sterling Ruth

Martin D-28, 1937

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Alex Rueb

RELIVING THE GREAT DEPRESSION Down in Austin, Texas, Waterloo Guitar (waterlooguitars.com) is doing something similar—and yet very different—than what Martin is doing with its Authentic Series. The brainchild of the company’s late owner Bill Collings, Waterloo models are built intentionally to be imperfect because they are modeled after inexpensive, Depressionera department store guitars. “When I first started working on guitars, there was always the holy grail,” Bill Collings wrote on the company’s website. “It was usually a mid-’30s Martin or Gibson that people were after. It was never the ladder-braced guitar or the off-brand guitar, but there was always something intriguing to me in those

cheaper guitars from the ’20s and ’30s. You could pick them up and they had character. The problem was that they rarely played well. If they had played well, a lot of them would still be played today. But since they didn’t, these are the guitars that got put in a closet or shoved away in an attic somewhere and forgotten about.” These guitars were made by department stores under such names as Stella, Regal, and Washburn. Even Gibson made an inexpensive Depression-era model called Kalamazoo—named after the company’s Michigan hometown. That inspired Collings: He called his company Waterloo because it was the original name of Austin, Texas.

These Depression-era guitars are smallbodied and have a unique bluesy sound made famous by Chicago players of the time. “They sort of sound like the ripping of cardboard,” says Waterloo General Manager Steve McCreary. Waterloo makes 10 models in both 14- and 12-fret versions. They have a real charm and a unique tone, which is particularly well suited to playing the blues. Everything has been done to make them appear cheap and old, even though they are new, play perfectly, and cost about $2,000. “We even have our glue squeezing out a little from the joints inside the body,” says McCreary. “But we don’t go crazy with it. It’s very precise.” u Spring 2018 221

ARTIST PROFILE

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Interior with Blue Terrace and Garden, 2017, acrylic on canvas, 48 x 96 inches, one of the artist’s dazzling renderings of his home in the Hollywood Hills.

Octogenarian DAVID HOCKNEY splashed onto the 1960s art scene as a flashy student and launched a six-decade-long career known for kaleidoscopic swimming pool scenes and Picasso-like perspectives now valued in the millions of dollars. by Jason Edward Kaufman

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From left: David Hockney photographed in 1993 at the National Museum of Photography, Film & Television (renamed the National Media Museum in 2007). Large double portraits of members of the artist’s circle in Los Angeles on display at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art: Christopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy, 1968, and American Collectors (Fred and Marcia Weisman), 1968.

SSPL/National Media Museum / Art Resource, NY; Jason Edward Kaufman

t the November opening of his 60-year retrospective at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, British-born artist David Hockney sported a navy blazer over a light green cardigan, accented by a red tie, checked pocket square, and matching cap. He looked every bit the English gentleman, belying the fact that for most of the last half-century he has lived and worked in Los Angeles. When the retrospective showed at the Tate Britain last year, the exhibition attracted 478,000 visitors, making it the most popular show of a living artist in the museum’s history, surpassing Damien Hirst (2012) and approaching Henri Matisse: The CutOuts (2014), which drew more than half a million. His colorful paintings have sold for seven-figure sums—including in 2016 when his landscape Woldgate Woods went for a record-breaking $11.7 million at auction. At 80, Hockney remains energetic, acutely alert, and boundlessly productive. Though grayed and hearing-impaired since his 40s (he wears aids in both ears), he still smokes— indeed, he is an ardent pro-smoking advocate—and his sense of style is fully intact. Widely regarded as England’s most celebrated living artist, he entered the limelight in London’s swinging sixties and became a cynosure of gay liberation. One reason for his success is that he prefers to paint recognizable subjects in pleasant, even joyful colors. This has made his work easily accessible, even as he experimented with modes of representation and various media. His expression has ranged from drawing, painting, and printmaking to making photographs, collages, videos, and digital technology pieces, lately pioneering the use of the iPad as a sketchpad. His adherence to figuration has led some critics to say he panders to commercial taste, but throughout his prolific career, Hockney has produced innovative compositions that assure him a place in the canon of modern masters. w

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BEGINNINGS Hockney grew up in relative poverty in Bradford, an industrialera town in West Yorkshire in the north of England. His father, a conscientious objector during WWII, eked out a living repairing prams and bicycles and his mother tended to their five children, David the second youngest. His natural talent for drawing propelled him to Bradford College of Art, on to a dazzling stint at the Royal College of Art in London, and by his mid-20s the fashionable phenom was touted as the next big thing in British art. As a student he attracted attention as a rising member of the School of London, alongside painters Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, Leon Kossoff, and R. B. Kitaj. He was painting in

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a pastiche of abstract expressionism and pop art, combining gestural brushwork, flat patterns, illusionism, and distorted space. His immediate influences were Bacon, French painter and sculptor Jean Dubuffet, and his idol Pablo Picasso. As his dealer, John Kasmin, secured him sales and exhibitions, his eye-catching wardrobes, bleached-blonde hair, and thick-rimmed round glasses made him a media star—a transatlantic counterpart to Andy Warhol. The signature yellow tresses came about on a trip to New York where the brunette saw a Clairol hair-dye ad on TV that promised “Blondes have more fun.”

Top, from left: Paintings from the early 1970s in the “David Hockney” retrospective at The Metropolitan Museum of Art: Pool and Steps, Le Nid du Duc, 1971; Rubber Ring Floating in a Swimming Pool, 1971; Mt. Fuji and Flowers, 1972. Right: Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures), 1972, acrylic on canvas, 84 x 120 inches. Opposite right: A Bigger Splash, 1967, acrylic on canvas 96 x 96 inches.

MADE IN CALIFORNIA When Hockney visited Los Angeles, he was enthralled with the sunshine, open spaces, and the lifestyle. Within a week he had a driver’s license, a car, an apartment in Santa Monica, and a studio in Venice. His signature works of the period depict the people he met, crystalline swimming pools, modern homes, and tropical vegetation in scenes suffused with clear California light. He switched from oil paint to more brightly hued synthetic acrylics available in American art supply stores, and adopted a palette of pleasing pastel pinks, blues, and greens. One of his most famous pictures, A Bigger Splash, 1967, is a diving-board view of a turquoise pool with a splatter of white paint where the diver has just plunged in, and a pair of palm trees standing against the clear blue sky above

a salmon-colored modernist pavilion. A Lawn Being Sprinkled, 1968, is even more reductive, mainly an expanse of wavy green punctuated by white triangles of irrigating spray. The most ambitious works of the period are 7-foot-by-10-foot, nearly life-sized double portraits. American Collectors (Fred and Marcia Weisman), 1968, shows the couple on their sundrenched patio accompanied by sculptures in their collection and posed as if they were but two more statues on display. His treatment of the British novelist Christopher Isherwood admiring his younger partner Don Bachardy in a Los Angeles living room is a more intimate tribute to his friends. Henry Geldzahler and Christopher Scott, 1969, centers on Geldzahler (then the Metropolitan Museum curator of 20thcentury art), enthroned on a plush

lavender sofa while his younger boyfriend stands to the right wearing a raincoat and looking away as if their relationship will soon end. Another 10-footer captures Hockney’s longtime friends, the fabric designer Celia Birtwell and her husband dress designer Ossie Clark, in the bedroom of their Notting Hill residence. “Berti,” as she was known, stands in a navy gown with a hand on her hip and Clark, wearing a blue sweater and bell-bottom jeans, leans back in a Breuer chair with his toes in the shag carpet and their white cat on his lap. The posh couple address the viewer as light pours in through open balcony shutters that provide a glimpse of a hazy garden. It took Hockney a year to complete Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy (1970-71), and within months it was exhibited at the National Portrait Gallery and purchased by the Tate. w

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His Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures), 1972, represents his former partner as a clothed figure pensively looking into a pool at a submerged swimmer who approaches with arms extended, the California countryside extending into the distance. Equally tender is a 1977 portrait of the painter’s parents, Laura and Kenneth Hockney. Wearing a cobalt dress, she sits with her hands folded, gazing affectionately outward. Her husband, in a gray suit, pores over an art book balanced on his knee. Their figures are echoed by a vase of tulips and a makeup mirror that rests on the green studio table between them.

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Counterclockwise from above: Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy, 1970-71, acrylic on canvas, 84 x 120 inches; My Parents, 1977, oil on canvas, 72 x 72 inches; Mulholland Drive: The Road to the Studio, 1980, acrylic on canvas, 86 x 243 inches.

GAINING PERSPECTIVE In 1982, Hockney bought a house in the Hollywood Hills and built a studio on what had been a hillside paddle tennis court. Set in a lush garden, the interior and exterior walls of the compound are the pastel colors of his pictures, as if Henri Matisse had gone to Los Angeles rather than to the South of France. Hockney could have continued to produce the radiant double portraits there, were it not for the landmark Picasso retrospective he saw in 1980 at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Awed by Picasso’s protean energy, he began to recognize the limitations of straight realism. He describes the Spanish master as “crucial … because he brings very much to the fore the question of verisimilitude versus the remaking of appearance. And what led me into the questioning of the verisimilitude of naturalism was that it was not real enough.” Hockney always venerated Picasso, telling Jonathan Jones, art critic for the

Guardian, that “Picasso was, without doubt, the greatest portraitist of the 20th century, if not any other century.” In ink drawings, Hockney emulated Picasso’s meticulously controlled line, seeking to convey volume, depth, and character with the sparest of means. His powers as a draftsman are evident in his 1967 portrait of his dealer Kasmin, propped on a pillow reading in a grand bed, and in a magisterial likeness of the poet W.H. Auden from the following year. Seeing Picasso’s career laid out in sequence alerted Hockney to the ways that painting could be transformed in pursuit of a more compelling representation of visual experience. Western art is typically based on linear perspective, where images are conveyed like a window that the viewer peers into from a fixed point outside the scene. But humans observe the world by taking in multiple glimpses and assembling them in their heads to form reality. Hockney realized that this

experience is precisely what Picasso recorded with cubism, which showed individual objects and space from multiple vantage points organized into a pictorial image. His inquiry led him to study Chinese scrolls that depict the world without perspective and require the viewer to journey through scenes as the picture unrolls. He also experimented with reverse perspective, in which the orthogonal lines converge in the viewer’s eye rather than at the horizon. He felt these systems were no less valid than linear perspective, which he associated with the invention of the camera in the West. This research informed the many projects he has done for the stage, including costume and set design for Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring, Mozart’s The Magic Flute, Puccini’s Turandot, and other operas at the Metropolitan Opera in New York, La Scala in Milan, and the Royal Opera House in London. w

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ÂŠ David Hockney Photo Credit: Richard Schmidt Collection Art Gallery of New South Wales, Sydney

Multi-panel depiction of the Yorkshire countryside, A Closer Winter Tunnel, FebruaryMarch, 2006, oil on 6 canvases (36 x 48 inches each) 72 x 144 inches overall.

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Hockney had long used cameras to make studies for paintings but never thought of photography as a medium suitable for personal expression. The single perspective and flatness of a photograph to him are untrue to the roving eye, which constructs space from multiple perspectives observed over time. In the 1970s he developed a way to get around the perceptual limitations of the medium. He took dozens of Polaroids of a scene and arranged the white-edged prints in a grid to form what he called a “joiner,” or a unified composite image representing multiple instants and perspectives. When he switched to 35 mm film with unframed prints, he overlapped the snapshots and placed them at angles to

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create more intricate representations of subjects and space. A beautiful example is a collaged portrait of his mother sitting in the graveyard of a church, with the tips of Hockney’s shoes visible on the prints along the bottom. His most complex photo collage Pearblossom Hwy., 11–18th April 1986 #1 depicts a desert crossroads on the way to Las Vegas. A tour de force of the medium, the joiner combines hundreds of overlapping photographs with slightly variant perspectives organized to evoke the immersive feeling one gets standing before a vast, open space. Hockney further experimented with technology when he enlisted a fax machine to send pictures, once

transmitting an entire exhibition over the wires. To aid in his diverse digital operations, his staff includes a fulltime technology assistant, Jonathan Wilkinson. A decade ago he began making paintings on iPhones and then iPads, using the Brush program to depict people, places, and still lifes that he emailed to friends. Time-lapse presentations of these works allow viewers to watch the creative process unfold. The final images are often printed out in large format and hung like paintings. Further using the computer to experiment with color changes, Hockney also manipulates multiple photographs in Photoshop to create compositions that he paints.

Jason Edward Kaufman

A NEW LENS

Early paintings in the David Hockney retrospective recently at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York: (from left)Rocky Mountains and Tired Indians, 1965; Arizona, 1964; and Portrait Surrounded by Artistic Devices, 1965.

HOME AGAIN Hockney’s interrogation of perception led to changes in his own painting, which by the 1980s had turned from figures to landscape. He made forays to England and to the Grand Canyon, and explored his leafy home in Los Angeles, often painting en plein air. Picasso had not only opened up his approach to composition but also suggested that he could paint more loosely and quickly, allowing touches of the brush to remain visible. He became freer also with color, taking cues from Matisse, Pierre Bonnard, and Vincent van Gogh in pictures marked by intensely saturated hues. The results are evident in landscapes like Nichols Canyon, 1980, in which a road snakes up a nearly vertical hillside

through vegetation rendered in vibrant touches of red, orange, blue, and green. Large Interior, Los Angeles, 1988, shows his living room as a multi-colored riot of furniture splayed across a cubistically distorted space. Even the muted palette of the English countryside got an injection of high-keyed color, as in The Road across the Wolds, 1997, and Garrowby Hill, 1998, which show pale violet roads winding through gorgeous textured tapestries of polygonal green and blue fields. Hockney never completely abandoned Yorkshire, returning often on holiday with family. In 1989 he bought his widowed mother a brick house overlooking the North Sea in Bridlington, close to two of his siblings. Six years after his mother’s death, he took over the house in 2005, adding a huge studio on the edge of town and committing himself to painting the region’s countryside. For the next 10 years he painted the farmland and lanes of his native Yorkshire. Heading out in the morning with his assistant and a van packed with canvases, he would sometimes knock out several paintings a day, paying close attention to seasonal changes. Among his many multi-panel pictures of Yorkshire, Bigger Trees Near Warter, 2007, a 15-foot-by-40-foot Goliath comprises 50 canvases. Confronting the Grand Canyon in 1998, he had realized that no conventional photograph or painting could encompass the consuming vista, so he devised a method of creating enormous pictures outdoors by painting smaller panels individually

UPCOMING EXHIBITIONS David Hockney: iPhone and iPad Drawings, 2009-12 LA Louver, Venice, CA March 28 - May 12, 2018 Something New in Painting (and Photography) [and even Printing] Pace, NY (25th St) April 5 - May 12, 2018 David Hockney RA: 82 Portraits and 1 Still Life Los Angeles County Museum of Art, organized by the Royal Academy of Arts, London April 15 - July 29, 2018

and assembling them side by side. The result was A Bigger Grand Canyon, 1998, a 24-foot-wide piece comprising 60 canvases. Hockney took the approach a step further by outfitting a Jeep with nine HD video cameras mounted on a grid, then drove slowly along English lanes documenting the moving scenery in multiple adjacent perspectives. Reconstructed on a multi-screen display, these works create a mosaic that viewers scan as they would walking through the forest itself. In 2015 he sold the property and returned to Los Angeles, where he continues to live and work. About five years ago he returned to portraiture with a series depicting more than 80 friends, each in a yellowupholstered wooden chair set on a platform against a background of various blues. Among the sitters for three-day sessions in the Los Angeles studio are the art dealer Larry Gagosian, architect Frank Gehry, California conceptual artist John Baldessari, and Hockney’s sister, his dentist, and his housekeeper. The portrait series will be on display at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art April 15–July 29, 2018. Today Hockney oversees his studio and staff with help from JeanPierre Gonçalves de Lima, a French accordionist and his companion for 15 years. The recently established David Hockney Foundation owns much of his art and conserves archives at offices on Santa Monica Boulevard. As the popular painter enters his ninth decade, Hockney’s reputation shines brighter than ever. u

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•What’s WHAT•

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Art & Culture

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Shop Just in time for spring is the introduction of larger-than-life bird nest paintings from Denver-based artist and designer Elaine St. Louis. The pieces range from 36 inches by 36 inches to a monumental 48 inches by 60 inches. From $2,400. elainestlouis.com Scandinavian host and anchorwoman Birgitte Bjerregaard has opened the sizable Vin Werck wine bar in her popular Copenhagen shop Design Werck. The 100-year-old naval building shows contemporary Danish and Scandinavian design by established and up-and-coming talents. designwerck.dk

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Through May 13, Uncovered: The Ken Burns Collection exhibits 28 of Emmy Award– winning documentarian Ken Burns’ neverbefore-displayed quilts at the University of Nebraska–Lincoln’s International Quilt Study Center & Museum. A corresponding documentary is being produced to air on PBS. quiltstudy.org

auction dates and catalogue. christies.com

Above: Matisse’s 1923 Odalisque couchée aux magnolias

A blockbuster, six-decade retrospective of Jasper Johns, the quintessentially American artist who is now 87, features more than 120 of his most significant works, including the celebrated Stars and Stripes. Jasper Johns: ‘Something Resembling Truth’ at The Broad in Los Angeles through May 13. thebroad.org In May, Christie’s New York will auction The Collection of Peggy and David Rockefeller. Among the more than 1,600 lots are Picasso’s 1905 Fillette à la corbeille fleurie (originally owned by Gertrude Stein; pre-auction estimate $70 million) and Matisse’s 1923 Odalisque couchée aux magnolias (estimated at $50

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million). Proceeds go to charities that the Rockefellers championed during their lifetimes. Contact Christie’s New York for auction dates and catalog. christies.com

Left: Picasso’s 1905 Fillette à la corbeille fleurie

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Each year, London-based illustrator and paper designer Alexandra “Fin” Fellowes accepts a limited number of weddings and events for which to create invitations, table cards, and menus. finfellowes.com Maker + Place in Aspen sells chic handmade works from studios where you can watch local craftspeople—like weaver Clarity Elise Fornell, who makes blankets out of hand-spun wool and cashmere. makerandplace.com To celebrate its 60th anniversary, in September luxury menswear brand Isaia opened a San Francisco boutique in a historic Frank Lloyd Wright building based on one of the original blueprints for NYC’s Guggenheim Museum. Visit for Euro-style sportswear, made-to-measure dinner jackets, and the vintage Campari bar. isaia.it French glassmaker Lalique celebrates 130 years with the release of a collection showcasing one of founder René Lalique’s favorite springtime motifs: The Hirondelles Grand Vase (left) in clear crystal is covered in soaring golden swallows and limited to 130 pieces. $18,000. lalique.com

Top: Robin Hill

The Bass, Miami Beach’s contemporary art museum (above), reopened in October 2017 after a two-year, $12 million expansion that perfectly honors both the museum’s 1930s art deco original building and the massive expansion from 2001. Expect thoughtprovoking exhibitions and installations. thebass.org

Calico Wallpaper’s LEED-certified wallcoverings use mineral pigments from paper-marbling gurus Rachel and Nick Cope. Designs available on all-natural Belgian linen. calicowallpaper.com

Pollaro Custom Furniture clients can commission a legacy dining table made from the historic George Washington oak, under which Washington met with the Marquis de Lafayette before the Battle of Princeton. pollaro.com

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Whether you’re a professional chef or just want to look like one, the Witloft Chef ’s Leather Knife Roll is handmade and available in forest green, dark brown, and cognac. $320. kaufmann-mercantile.com

Top Left: Erik Lefvander; Bottom Right: PiotrStoklosa.com

Since last December, Aspen’s Silver City, a mountain saloon and music destination, has served a wide selection of micro-brews and tequilas, as well as craft cocktails and small bites—brats and charcuterie and pâté boards. Local, high-energy cowboy bands play on weekends. silvercityaspen.com

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Glam Soho speakeasy Jack Solomons Club opened November 2017 on the site of Jack Solomons’ old London gym (he was a famous boxing promoter in the ’40s and ’50s). Ring the bell to be admitted into the astonishingly large, surprisingly plush subterranean space. Grab drinks at the massive pewter bar. Live bands and DJs play weekends until 1 a.m. jacksolomons.com

The Invisible Collection has collaborated with Swedish interior designer Louise Liljencrantz on her first furniture collection, featuring thick mahogany side tables (below), sculptural dining tables, and benches. From $3,915. theinvisiblecollection.com

Wellness at Home

Bars

To honor the 100th anniversary of merlot vines planted during World War I, Cos d’Estournel, a historic winery in the Bordeaux region of France, unveils COS100 (right) in a very limited edition (there will be only 10 Balthazars and 100 double magnums). $22,125/double magnum. estournel.com/cos100 Join the Grove and Vine members to receive small-batch premium olive oil from some of the world’s most exclusive private olive producers. From $180/year. groveandvine.com Award-winning French chocolatier Patrick Roger brought an abandoned vineyard back to life. Now, he debuts amphora-aged L’Instant Patrick Roger 2016 (right), a wild, tannin-free syrah to drink young. $85/bottle. patrickroger.com

Last October Malibu Canyon’s famed Saddle Peak Lodge cleverly transformed its attic into the membership-only whiskey mecca The Double Barrel Room. Find 350 whiskeys from all over, including well-known labels like Macallan 35 Year Old single malt and the Glenlivet Pullman Series, and become a member by purchasing a bottle and leaving it in your locker for your next visit. saddlepeaklodge.com

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Food & Drink

If you are a cognac connoisseur, you’ll want to travel to Beijing for this. Louis XIII LE Salmanazar—a one-off, 9-liter Baccarat crystal decanter filled to the brim with a proprietary blend of more than 1,200 eaux-de-vie (below). Available through a private-viewing appointment at the Louis XIII Boutique in the Beijing SKP shopping center. $450,000. conciergerie@louis-xiii.com w

The Chandelier at the Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, a tri-level, crystal-swathed bar, unveiled a $1 million makeover last November. Try a Champagne Socialist or We’re All Mad Here (gin, elderflower, rosewater, among others) under the largest chandelier in the world—sparkling strands of more than 2 million beaded crystals. cosmopolitanlasvegas.com

APRIL IS NATIONAL STRESS AWARENESS MONTH, BUT THESE TOP PRODUCTS WILL RELIEVE STRESS ALL YEAR. • Tata Harper’s Aromatic Stress Treatment is made with organic materials from her Vermont Farm. $80/.16 fl. oz. tataharperskincare.com • Molton Brown’s Silver Birch Thermal Bath Soak smells like a Norwegian forest. For bubbles, add a capful of Silver Birch Body Wash. $30 each. moltonbrown.com • Malin+Goetz’s newest candle Leather includes notes of sandalwood and amber. $55. malinandgoetz.com • Strange Invisible Perfumes uses certified organic lavender, rose, vetiver, and chamomile oils, all great stress-busters. Spray your pillow with Ojai Botanical Room & Linen Mist for sweet dreams. $75/3.4 fl. oz. siperfumes.com

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Restaurants

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Haute couture meets haute cuisine at Gucci Osteria, opened this January at the fashion house’s new Gucci Garden complex in Florence, Italy. The former Gucci Museo includes a museum, boutique, and the 50-seat restaurant by Chef Massimo Bottura of threeMichelin-starred Osteria Francescana. Bottura presents a parade of pasta but adds modern, confident touches from South America and Asia. Try spicy black-bean tostadas or steamed Chinese buns stuffed with braised pork belly. gucci.com Habitat opened last November at 1 Hotel South Beach with an earthy, mellow vibe. On the patio under string lights, order bespoke salads from the roaming salad cart (there’s a salad sommelier) or choose one of Chef Jose Mendin’s specialties—ceviches, tartares, tiraditos, and shellfish. 1hotels.com

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Finally, we can all have breakfast at Tiffany’s (as well as lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea). Last November the jeweler’s flagship Manhattan store opened Blue Box Café, serving seasonal dishes as well as the Fifth Avenue Salad (Maine lobster, avocado with poppy seed dressing). For tea, servers deliver a selection of sandwiches and petit fours that look like the iconic Tiffany boxes. tiffany.com

Frank Sinatra ate here when Chicago’s Booth One (below) was the place to see and be seen. Since the restaurant reopened in October 2017, the menu has included classic caviar service (buckwheat blini and crème fraiche), a 36-ounce (this is Chicago) côte de boeuf covered with black truffle béarnaise, and a nice selection of chardonnays, pinots, and craft beer. boothone.com

Old Italian elegance paired with 1950s-movie-set charm by the owner of Harry’s Bar in London’s Mayfair district arrived at nearby Knightsbridge last November. At Harry’s Dolce Vita, Murano

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glass, Fortuny fabrics, leather banquettes, and a long central bar complement a menu of hearty pastas, classic Venetian dishes, pizza, and, for dessert, panna cotta, cannoli, and tiramisu. harrysdolcevita.com

The James Beard Award–winning team from Frasca Food and Wine debuts Italian eatery Tavernetta adjacent to Denver’s newly opened Kimpton Hotel Born. Order creamy burrata, melt-in-yourmouth lamb ragù gnocchi, and a pleasantly tipsy tiramisu. The wine list is heavy with full-bodied reds and brilliant rosés. tavernettadenver.com

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In November 2017 dynamic partners Aimee Olexy and Stephen Starr (who own 30 concept restaurants) brought casualdining eatery The Love to their hometown of Philadelphia. High-octane comfort food ranges from handmade pierogi topped with caviar to veal lasagna with kale and basil noodles to a carrot cake sundae. theloverestaurant.com

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At the Velvet Buck, opened last December at the St. Regis Aspen Resort, start with a lip-tingling Bloody Mary made with Woody Creek vodka. Savor foods of the Old West like beef-marrow bones, bison tartare, elk stew, or huge and perfectly cooked bone-in ribeye. stregisaspen.com

Ed Reeve

The French Room in Dallas’ storied the Adolphus Hotel underwent a gold-andcream facelift inspired by Gilded Age Paris, adding romantic, low-light chandeliers and cherub murals on the ceiling (above). The tasting menu changes weekly with delicacies like seared foie gras with cherry glaze, chilled lobster salad, and Texas Wagyu ribeye. adolphus.com

Riffing on the flagship Michelin-starred Cantonese and dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong, Duddell’s London opened last November in London Bridge’s historic St. Thomas Church (below). Try Euro-Chinese dishes like slow-cooked beef shin with grilled sea vegetables or Peking duck—with creamy dips—served tableside. An open dim-sum kitchen serves eye-catching steamed seafood dumplings. duddells.co

In the New Yorker Hotel’s abandoned 1930s bank vault, Butcher & Banker (below) opened last November, serving old-school steakhouse favorites: tomahawk ribsteaks and prime rib topped with smoky bacononion marmalade. butcherandbankernyc.com

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Warsaw fell on hard times during the Soviet era (think Hotel Budapest). Recently renovated, renamed, and reopened this March, the grande dame has 106 serene rooms and suites decorated with Polish art, a restaurant showcasing Polish cuisine, and a French-style patisserie serving éclairs, meringues, and macaroons. From $350. raffles.com

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In January the design-forward, 25-story, 336-room The Murray hotel opened with a high-wattage rooftop restaurant and bar overlooking Hong Kong. Locals swear by the fried lobster with black bean chili sauce at Guo Fu Lou, the hotel’s Cantonese restaurant. From $515. marcopolohotels.com

Opened last December, the dining room at Brooklyn’s Fausto curves around a pair of roaring wood ovens in an open kitchen. Regional Italian dishes like linguine with clams and pork sausage are the draw. Perfectly roasted chicken comes a close second. The wine list is big, mostly Italian, and well-chosen. faustobrooklyn.com

Architect Kerry Hill and his team retained the Ming dynasty and Qing dynasty buildings just outside Shanghai as part of a 15-year conservation initiative that is Amanyangyun (right). Refined oneto five-bedroom spaces—wood, stone, bamboo—opened in January with private pools, courtyards, and a dedicated butler. From $1,100. aman.com

A modern take on classic Danish smørrebrød (artfully layered, open-faced sandwiches), Chef Adam Aamann of Copenhagen’s Aamanns 1921, which opened in August 2017, starts with house-made rugbrød (a dense and sour Danish rye) spread with butter, then stacks on shrimp, egg, and dill or salmon gravlax, apple, and kale, or whatever is in season. aamanns.dk

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The distinctive Bulgari Resort Dubai debuted last December on a man-made, seahorseshaped island in Jumeira Bay. In addition to 101 rooms and suites, stay in one of 20 grand villas with private pools surrounded by peaceful gardens. Amenities include a 50-slip yacht marina, a Yacht Club, and the Little Gems Club for kids. From $820. bulgarihotels.com Opened in January inside the 1920s Giannini Bank Building, NoMad Los Angeles has an opulent gold-and-blue, more-is-more look and 241 Italian-inspired rooms. From the rooftop pool bar, you can see all of downtown LA. California casual as well as formal dining by Chef Daniel Humm and restaurateur Will Guidara—the team behind NoMad New York and Eleven Madison Park. From $315. thenomadhotel.com w

An icon on Paris’ Left Bank since 1910, Hotel Lutetia (below) hosted Picasso. James Joyce wrote Ulysses here. Closed in 2014 for a total renovation, the hotel welcomes guests in May with a smaller number (184) of larger guest rooms and suites, plus 360-degree views of Paris and a smoking room with cigar sommelier service. From $1,055. hotellutetia.com

Chef and founder of Momofuku David Chang launched his much-anticipated Los Angeles outpost Majordōmo this January. The long dining room has an industrial look; the menu is an Asian mind-meld (below). Bing (a flattened, griddled Chinese bread) is big—served with shareable dips and spreads. Noodles and, of course, pork with Korean fermented vegetables are a big part of the menu as well. majordomo.la Opened in 1857, Raffles Europejski

Top Left: Pap Studio; Bottom Left: Andrew Bezek

Hotels

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Gold Metal

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Racing fans flock to the Monaco Grand Prix, held in May on the city’s narrow streets. Guests aboard the multi-masted tall ship Royal Clipper for the seven-night Monaco Grand Prix Finals voyage ($1,690/person, starclippers.com) can sail round-trip from Cannes on May 26 to Monaco on May 27 for a full day of adrenaline-charged auto racing, then onward to Portofino, Italy, Corsica, Sardinia, Porquerolles, Sanary-suer-Mer, and back to Cannes. The Monaco Grand Prix Trials sailing (from $1,690/person) departs Barcelona, Spain, on May 19 and heads to Mallorca, Menora, and Cassis, France, before stopping for the day in Monaco on May 24 for the Grand Prix Trials. Enjoy racy St. Tropez before returning to Cannes. Or stay at Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo, which revealed in January the two-story Princess Grace Suite (from $37,000/night. hoteldeparismontecarlo.com) with original artworks and books from the personal library of Her Highness and outdoor terraces planted with fragrant Grace roses.

Step back in time to the 1940s to experience the 2017 British war drama The Darkest Hour with the Lanesborough London’s Spitfire Experience (below) package for two. Spend the night at the palatial hotel, enjoy breakfast for two at Celeste, access personal training with a Bodyism Performance Specialist, take a limo for lunch at the Goodwood estate, step aboard a restored Spitfire with an experienced pilot, and roar off over the English Channel for barrel rolls and sweeping turns. You can even (briefly) take the controls. $12,025, available through November. oetkercollection.com

Held every 20 years, the Fête des Vignerons began in 1797 as a simple procession through Vevey, Switzerland, to celebrate local vineyard workers. Recently, the festival of fine wines, foods, and colorful parades was added to UNESCO’s

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Celebrate May being whisky month in Scotland at the epicenter of whisky production. The Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival, May 3–7, includes private tours of distilleries, tastings of rare whisky, whiskycentric dinners, and bagpipers. Stop at entrepreneur Piers Adam’s the Craigellachie Hotel (craigellachiehotel.co.uk) for the launch of blended malt whisky Copper Dog. spiritofspeyside.com

list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity (below). Sign up for the newsletter and buy tickets the moment they are announced. The event ( July 18 through August 11, 2019) sells out quickly. fetedesvignerons.ch

Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding takes place on May 19. Regardless of your invitation status, you can still party that day like royalty by booking The Royal Experience package at The Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh. Stay in a suite, helicopter to the Queen’s summer getaway Balmoral Estate, enjoy a tour of Holyrood Palace, and sip Champagne aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia. From $20,395. roccofortehotels.com

The 11-day Geographic Expeditions Monasteries & Mountains (below) itinerary includes a moderate trek in Tibet’s lush Yangpachen Valley and visits to the 800-yearold Tsurphu Monastery and the colorful celebrations of annual Buddhist festivals. Bookending the trek is time in Lhasa, Shigatse, and Gyantse. $4,975/person. geoex.com

From October 18 through November 11, Abercrombie & Kent founder Geoffrey Kent wants to show you his favorite places during Around the World with Geoffrey Kent: An Inspiring Expedition by Private Jet. Hop from Nicaragua’s Emerald Coast (below) to Chilean Patagonia to the still-underthe-radar vineyards of Western Australia’s Margaret River by private jet with entrance to invitation-only events, a picnic on the slopes of a dormant volcano, and a torch-lit feast on the shores of Easter Island along the way. From $150,000/person. abercrombiekent.com

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Top Right: Natalie Werve; Bottom Left: Richard Paver

Travel/Do

Local Colors THE BIGGEST RESORT IN THE BAHAMAS IS A MAJOR SHOWCASE OF THE ISLANDS’ ARTISTIC HERITAGE. The first phase of Baha Mar (bahamar.com) resort destination opened in April 2017, stretching along two miles of coast west of downtown Nassau. Three hotels face the sea—a Grand Hyatt flanked by an SLS and a Rosewood—together offering 2,300 rooms. The 1,000-acre campus features palm-lined paths that wend past pools to the silky beach, a Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course, dozens of restaurants and bars, a strip of upscale retail outlets, and an enormous 100,000-square-foot casino and 200,000-square-foot conference center, both the largest in the Caribbean. The multibillion-dollar project is one of the largest hospitality investments in the Western Hemisphere and will be one of the Bahamas’ largest employers, with a staff of more than 5,000 manning a buisness projected to generate 12 percent of the islands’ GDP within three years of being fully operational. Former Prime Minister Perry G. Christie has called Baha Mar “critical to the economic viability of our national economy.” Moreover, the resort is proving to be a major player in another component of Bahamian life: as one of the country’s most important art patrons. Luxury brands tend to supplant local culture with their own style and ambiance, but Baha Mar’s owners, Hong Kong–based Chow Tai Fook Enterprises Ltd., are taking a different approach by blending Bahamian culture into the resort’s leisure and gaming mix. In addition to assembling a noteworthy collection of native art and commissioning new work by island artists, the resort is running a gallery with art-educational programs and displaying the largest-ever presentation of Bahamian art. The art program, called The Current, is led by John Cox, former curator at the National Art Gallery of the Bahamas. Cox not only selects the more than 6,000 Bahamian works (unique and multiples)

installed throughout the complex but operates the commercial gallery with changing exhibitions, residencies for local and international artists, an art library, art-making classes, lectures, and film screenings, all of which are open to guests, including children. The idea is to foster creative exchange between guests and the local arts community, but these activities also position Baha Mar as a juggernaut buyer of Bahamian art. The resort has acquired playing card– themed paintings by Kendall Hanna, flamingo paintings and landscapes by Lynn Parotti, abstract seascapes by John Paul, music-themed paintings by Maxwell Taylor recalling the Over the Hill neighborhood of Nassau, and wildly colorful collaborative canvases by Stan Burnside, Antonius Roberts, and John Beadle. Cox has his own acrylic silkscreen paintings on display, along with works by John Paul, Brent Malone, Tessa Whitehead, Dominique Knowles, Janeen Walker, and Dom Cant, among many others. Filling the public spaces of the Performing Arts & Convention Center, the long-term Fairwind exhibition assembles approximately 350 works that tell the story of Bahamian art, from colonial times to today. The chapters range from Columbus’ discovery of the New World (he landed first in the Bahamas in 1492) to European influence on Bahamian art and Afro-Caribbean themes. There are also landscape, nautical, piracy, and Bahamian life subjects, including the carnival-like Junkanoo Festival, women in society, and

photographic portraits. Slated to be fully installed this summer, the show promises to include a number of artists with international reputations, such as Tavares Strachan and Lavar Munroe (both of whom have been in the Venice Biennale), Janine Antoni, Heino Schmid, Dave Smith, and intuitive artists Amos Ferguson and Wellington Bridgewater. To create the landmark survey, Cox is borrowing around 200 works from the holdings of Dawn Davies, a private collector with several thousand Bahamian artworks (few of which are publicly displayed). By comparison, the National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, founded only 14 years ago, has a modest collection of 450 works. Only a handful of those can be shown at once in the institution’s colonial house in downtown Nassau. The nearby D’Aguilar Art Foundation, conserving 1,350 primarily Bahamian works amassed by the late collector Vincent D’Aguilar, offers temporary shows, but not on the scale undertaken at Baha Mar. How important the resort’s art program will be to conference attendees and guests remains to be seen, but Baha Mar is already playing a prominent role in promoting Bahamian visual culture. “We feel a responsibility to provide our guests access to Bahamian art and a glimpse into the everyday life of our artists,” says Baha Mar president Graeme Davis. “Working with John Cox and local artists is a way for us to honor the culture and recognize the exemplary work coming out of the Bahamas, while providing guests access to the top thinkers, artists, and visionaries here.” —Jason Edward Kaufman w

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Real Estate

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Just 15 minutes from Cancun but light years away, La Amada Residences are a collection of 215 one- to three-bedroom, mid-rise condos among eight buildings. Views of La Amada’s private Caribbean beaches or, on the lagoon side, a lush nature preserve. Golf and an on-site marina. From $350,000. laamada.com On 60 acres in a previously neglected industrial area very near downtown Honolulu, Ward Village is Hawaii’s only LEED-ND Platinum-Certified project (below). Mixeduse towers encompass shops, restaurants (including Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s new flagship Nobu Honolulu), and residences. From $900,000. wardvillage.com —Irene Rawlings u

Porta Fortuna Residences (above) at Punta Mita have just gone on sale. Eleven five- and six-bedroom homes (either oceanfront or ocean-view) with haciendastyle courtyards, plunge pools, and access to the amenities of the Punta Mita Club. From $3 million. portafortunapuntamita.com

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views of the Hudson River and the Manhattan skyline all the way down to the Statue of Liberty. Indoor swimming, tennis, and squash. Parks, fountains, and sweeping lawns. From $1.8 million. waterlinesquare.com The 19-story condo building 91 Leonard in TriBeCa has an exterior that reflects the area’s industrial heritage and interiors featuring whitewashed brick with Poliform kitchen cabinets and Gaggenau appliances. From $1.2 million, penthouses from $8 million. 91leonard.com

Mr. C Residences is next to the ultrahip Mr. C Beverly Hills hotel. The contemporary, redwood-glass-and-teak townhouse-style homes include a private elevator and private, two-space parking garage (below). From $3.5 million. mrcresidences.com

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FOUR SEASONS IS LAUNCHING SEVERAL FOUR SEASONS–BRANDED RESIDENCES— EACH INSPIRED BY ITS LOCATION AND ALL REFLECTING THE LEVEL OF STYLE AND SERVICE EXPECTED OF THE FOUR SEASONS BRAND.

• Four Seasons Private Residences Fort Lauderdale, Florida. 90 one- to fourbedroom homes sold unfurnished or furnished by London-based designer Tara Bernerd. Services include beach butler and à la carte yacht service, plus housekeeping and access to the Kids for All Seasons program. From $2.4 million unfurnished, from $3.1 million furnished. fort525residences.com

Oceana Bal Harbour features 240 oneto four-bedroom beachfront residences (plus two-story penthouses) with floorto-ceiling windows, extra-deep balconies, a 24-hour concierge, and both Atlantic and Biscayne Bay views. From $2 million. oceanabalharbour.com Waterfront land between New York City’s Midtown and the Upper West Side is seeing a huge redevelopment. Waterline Square—three glass towers on 77 acres— offer one- to four-bedroom condos with

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• Four Seasons Private Residences One Dalton, Boston. 160 fully serviced residences atop the 61-story Four Seasons Hotel, designed by Harry Cobb of Pei Cobb Freed & Partners, along with Cambridge Seven Associates. Views of Boston, Cape Cod, and the Berkshire Mountains from the 50th floor Private Residences’ Club Lounge. From $3.25 million. onedalton.com

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• Four Seasons Private Residences Prieta Bay at Peninsula Papagayo, Costa Rica. An exclusive enclave of 20 three- and four-bedroom eco-estates sits on 17 acres of oceanfront adjacent to the Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica. Designed by renowned Costa Rican architect Ronald Zürcher. From $3.5 million. peninsulapapagayo.com

Bottom Left: Rouse Photography; Right: Nic Lehouxr

• Four Seasons Resort and Private Residences Napa Valley, Calistoga, California. 20 vineyard-side residences with two master bedrooms, walk-in closets, and an owner’s wine cellar. Farmhouse architecture with pitched metal roofs. Slated to open in 2019. From $3.5 million. napaluxuryliving.com

INTRODUCING THE FIRST-EVER LEXUS LC 500 WHAT STARTED AS PURE CONCEPT, LAUNCHED A NEW ERA OF PERFORMANCE AND DESIGN. The LC 500 is a collection of visionary ideas. 10-speed Direct-Shift transmission. Near-perfect weight distribution. An innovative suspension system that defies conventional logic, accommodating available 21-inch wheels* within a ground-hugging profile. The LC is also an uncompromising approach to design. Although the first seat design was technically perfect, it was the 50th prototype that had the exact fit and feeling to complement the unique LC driving experience. This intense dedication to craftsmanship and innovation results in a level of refinement you’ve never felt. A sound you’ve never heard. And a feeling you have yet to experience. Introducing the first-ever 5.0-liter V8 Lexus LC 500 and Multistage Hybrid LC 500h. Experience the future of Lexus. Experience Amazing. lexus.com/LC | #LexusLC

Options shown. *21-in performance tires are expected to experience greater tire wear than conventional tires. Tire life may be substantially less than 20,000 miles, depending upon driving conditions. ©2017 Lexus