VALENTINO
CHANEL
DOLCE & GABBANA
Marni
In Living Color
MINIMALISTS BEWARE: SPRING’S BEST COLLECTIONS COME IN EVERY POSSIBLE PATTERN AND SHADE OF THE RAINBOW. By Mackenzie Wagoner Somewhere over the rainbow, life beyond the mundanity of sheltering in place will resume in full spectrum. The question on every designer’s mind remains: when the time comes, what will we possibly wear? For the Spring 2021 collections, there was one resounding answer: all of it. If runways from New York to Paris are to be believed, oved it, couldn t wear it, will e a lament of ester ear. nstead, the first thaw of spring will usher in refreshingly optimistic technicolor dream clothes to slip on and, with any luck, take anywhere we’d like. n Milan, ierpaolo iccioli mi ht ver well have had oroth s first limpse of in mind for the hi h-octane oral prints that limmered across alentino s re ric road at Milan s onderia Macchi in the form of hoodies, utton downs and oor-len th sil dresses that too i ht in the open air. n fact, the loomin pattern was orrowed from alentino s own archives, namel a sin ular sweepin dress most famousl donned by Anjelica Huston in 1972, which Piccioli revived for the “radical romanticism” he’s prescribing for our reconnection to the outside world. If the silhouettes were pared-back iterations of familiar hits, the palettes were a la e. Across continents, ever one from hlo s atacha amsa - evi to Marni s rancesco isso eschewed complicated constructions and ash-in-the-pan ourishes in favor of pushing saturation to its limits. There were yellows of a new dawn at Ale ander Mc ueen, a ell - reen da suit with a carwash s irt at otte a eneta the 74 BAL HARBOUR
rand s old new si nature color , and for livier oustein s almain, the ee nd s lindin i hts set the tune and the tone of his uorescent show. penin with a strut of micro-skirted, nipped-waisted, pagoda power-shouldered models in lime and neon pin , it was a cele ration not onl of color, ut of the od itself. f oustein and onatella ersace have an thin to sa a out it, s in, too, will e in. or those loo in for a less jarrin transition from ur ail weats, there will e plent of hospita le and none the less head-turnin salves. At hanel, ir inie iard s art imitated life, specificall those of oun starlets whose ever errand demands not just the lenses of papara i ut the necessit to dress for them. our co iest cardi an, she su ested, can serve dou le dut as a laisse -faire dress for the briefest and chicest of jaunts, especially in a charming shade of bubblegum. hile alencia a s chromatic collection included one especiall invitin fire en ine red ro e coat drawn with emna Gvasalia s cooll oversi ed lines, it was perhaps Dolce & Gabbana, returning from the fringes of an isolation of their own making, that brought Spring’s most uplifting range. Its sinuous bustiers and deftly-cut la ers were pieced to ether with patchwor honorin all of the var in cultures of Sicily, the birthplace of Domenico Dolce. Floral, polka-dotted and entirely madcap, each confectionary piece telegraphed one unmissable message: we’re that much more beautiful when we’re united.