The Origins of the Flavor Profiles in Mezcal-Tequila Spirits Production Written by GARY SPEDDING, JESSI BENTLEY, PHILIP GENNETTE, and HALEY SPURLIN
MAPPING MEZCAL Abstract
This article stems from the production of a new series of detailed beer and distilled spirits flavor maps from the team at Brewing and Distilling Analytical Services, LLC (BDAS). The main infographic appears on pages 56–57 and was also the feature of a recent presentation at the American Craft Spirits Association convention. The map is sectionalized and, with a few additional figures, forms a broad outline of mezcal (including tequila) flavor production. The map thus forms the basis for an understanding of flavor profiles and presents terminology for a best-practice approach to the sensory evaluation of the mezcal class of spirits. Such directional or flavor family-tree/hierarchical maps of late provide a better approach than the traditional flavor wheels now available for coffee, tea, beer, and all manner of distilled spirits and other beverages and foods. Raw Materials Agave
Cooking Baking Milling
MEZCAL TEQUILA PRODUCTION
Resting/ Maturation
General outline
Mainly tequila
Dilution
Distillation
n
Bottling
Fermentation
io Dilut
Largely Two Stage 2
Rectification
Pot Stills Column Ceramic Other Ancestral Stills
The agave plant-based distilled beverages, known broadly as mezcals (mescal), form a vast varietal and complex class of distilled spirits. Only a brief outline is presented here to cover the origins of the vast array of volatile flavor components leading to the diverse spectrum of flavor profiles of the mezcals. Many agave species are to be found, and about 20-26 or so are often utilized either as single species or in a mixed (ensamble) format to add to the flavor diversity of mezcals. Tequila is a mezcal spirit but made with only one agave species, Agave tequilana, also called blue agave or agave azul. An example of a mixed agave (maguey) ensamble mezcal is Bozal Ensamble and is made with cultivated maguey espadín and wild maguey barril and Mexicano (i.e., with the agave species known as angustifolia (espadín) and karwinski and rhodacantha, respectively). It is noted as being slightly smoky with lots of herbal tones. Unlike grain and maltose/glucose-based fermentations, the mezcals are fermented primarily from fructose as yielded from the hydrolysis of fructans (sometimes called inulins) and by mixed culture microbiota (bacteria and various yeast species). These features make for complex production and the resultant unique flavor (aroma cloud) profiles. Full details may be found elsewhere (Spedding, 2023; Cedano Nuñez, 2022; Zapata & Nabhan, 2003, and many articles on taxonomy and conservation of agave by Dr. Ana Valenzuela-Zapata). For now, just the basics on the origins of flavor are covered herein. Some details are derived from notes provided by Marco Cedano (of Tequila Tromba fame) and from the translation of a professional standard sensory training flavor wheel originally created by the tequila expert Ana María Romero Mena.
An Outline on the Production of Mezcals
1 Ordinary
(Ordinario)
Figure 1
A broad outline of mezcal-tequila production A complex and lengthy growth cycle for agave, the fructan-polymer-based fermentable sugar source for mezcal production starts the cycle. The agave piñas, stripped of their leaves (pencas) are baked or cooked to hydrolyze the fructans (see other figures herein) and then milled/ground-up to release the fructose rich juices (mosto or “honeys”), readied for fermentation (yielding normally 4-7% but up to 10% ABV and flavorful acids, esters, etc.) which will then be distilled. Today, a stripping or ordinary still (ancestral variations on the theme) yields 25-30% ABV. The second stage distillate (rectification/rectificación) leads to tequila/mezcal rectificado at up to 55% ABV. This distillate will then be proofed down and bottled or sent on for varying periods of resting or maturation. Up to 1% additives such as caramel or oak extracts may be added according to rules for mezcals and, specifically for tequila, as discussed elsewhere (Spedding, 2023). Additional steps and ingredients may be used as also noted in the text. W W W . ARTISANSPIRITMAG . C O M
Introduction
A brief outline of the basics of mezcal production is presented in Figure 1. The core of the agave — called the heart or piña — is the part harvested to make agave spirits. The leaves of the plant (pencas) are removed to eliminate unwanted bitter and soapy components. The piñas are then cooked/baked, traditionally in underground pits or stone ovens, or in more modern “brick” ovens, autoclaves, or in fancy tennis court-sized machines called diffusers. For the more technical diffuser processing (fructan hydrolysis), sulfuric acid is often utilized in a manner similar to the process of breaking down sucrose into glucose and fructose — as for corn sugar (glucose) and fructose production. 53