February 2024 Hideaway Report

LU X U R Y I N P U G L I A | R O M A N C E O U T S I D E R O M E | N E W E N G L A N D E S C A P E S | M E M B E R S P O T L I G H T

A N D R E W H A R PER ’ S

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ROBERTO MOIOL A / GETT Y IMAGES

T R AV E L I N G T H E WO R L D I N S E A R C H O F T R U LY E N C H A N T I N G P L AC E S

ESCAPE to the

COAST W

Polignano a Mare, Puglia

e make a point of returning to Italy every year, and

in spring. For a summer getaway, consider coastal New England.

it’s as much of a pleasure as a duty. When I finish an

There, we rambled around the beaches of the Cape Cod National

itinerary there for an article, I usually want to turn

Seashore, the historic towns of Martha’s Vineyard and the opu-

right around and do it again as a vacation. This time, we went

lent mansions of Newport. Also look inside for the latest Cruise

to Puglia, a lesser-known region that has sprouted an array of

News and the first of our Member Spotlight columns. The latter

enticing hotels and fine restaurants. It’s a perfect place to visit

highlights your travel experiences, which we are excited to share.

THE NEW LUXURY OF PUGLIA Plush hideaways and resorts draw us back to a formerly remote corner of Italy

O

n my first visit to Puglia many

luxury hotels and resorts popping up in the

years ago, I discovered an under-

last decade. The region may no longer feel

the-radar destination with few

as undiscovered (or as inexpensive), but it’s

tourists, a handful of relaxed hotels and a

more comfortable than ever to explore. We

charming ruggedness that was worlds away

selected four of the most promising prop-

from Florence or Positano. Puglia doesn’t

erties to visit undercover, and each proved

have the white-sand beaches of Sardinia or

distinctive and delightful in its own way.

the verdant scenery of Tuscany or the cultural cachet of Sicily, but that’s what makes it so

BORGO EGNAZIA

appealing. A journey here doesn’t come with a

After an hour’s drive from the Bari airport, we

long list of must-dos to check off your bucket

found ourselves at the gates of Borgo Egnazia.

list. Instead, it’s about slowing down and

Travel publications frequently nominate the

savoring the simple things: a beautiful lunch

resort as one of the best in the world, and it’s

under the olive trees at a masseria (fortified

easy to see why. It’s mesmerizingly beauti-

farmhouse), a sunset stroll through a sleepy

ful: a whitewashed Mediterranean palace

village or a dip in the sea at a rocky beach.

surrounded by ancient olive groves and

Now the secret is out, and Puglia’s new-

flowering cacti. The resort consists of three

found popularity has resulted in numerous

sections: Le Case, with 28 private villas; Il Borgo, a village of 93 suites in stone houses GUL F OF VE NI CE

surrounding a town square; and La Corte, Bar del Portico, Borgo Egnazia, Savelletri di Fasano

the 63-room main lodge.

GUL F OF G ENOA

When we arrived, attentive staff silently and efficiently whisked our bags from our

LI GUR I AN SEA

car to the room while we checked in. Our

PU G L I A

R OM E

A DR I A T I C S EA

BARI

S A V E L L E TRI BRI N D I S I LECCE

ITALY IONIAN S EA

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

2

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T February 2024 M E D I T E RRAN E AN S E A

NICOL A CIPRIANI

Spa relaxation room, Borgo Egnazia

accommodation, La Corte Bella, was the

It all seemed a bit phony to me, espe-

property’s smallest and most affordable, but

cially as an average guest paying full price

R AT I N G 9 0

it still felt glamorous and well equipped, with

for an entry-level room. The travel writers

a desk and a chaise, plus a large bath with a

who have deemed this hotel worthy of the

separate shower and tub.

world’s attention arrived here as VIPs and

LIKE The gorgeous pools with plenty of lounge chairs; the exquisite boutique; the varied top-notch dining options; the stateof-the-art spa with private Roman baths; the seaview golf course.

The hotel dazzled us at first, especially

were treated accordingly, housed in spacious

after a sunset drink at the romantic bar and

suites in the ersatz village and bamboozled

a spectacular dinner at Due Camini, where

by a mirage of authenticity wrapped in the

we enjoyed a Michelin-starred tasting menu.

scent of almonds. The hotel bursts with

The following morning I visited the spa, a

charm, but it’s a manufactured charm, one

palace of relaxation complete with a heated

that was purchased and not earned.

indoor pool, a steam room and sauna, various

Though I much prefer Italian hotels that

lounges, a beauty salon and even an aroma-

are more truly Italian, sometimes comfort

therapy lab, where you can create your own

can trump authenticity. With its tranquil

essential-oil blend. Most impressive were

spa, spacious accommodations and elegant

the Roman baths, with pools of varying

dining options, the resort is an undeniably

temperatures cut into the stone.

spectacular vacation destination. Guests can

B O RG O E G N A Z I A

DISLIKE The faux-antique patina; the odd décor that looked a bit like clutter.

GOOD TO KNOW While the hotel is extremely family friendly, La Corte is adults-only during the summer months. Families are limited to Il Borgo or the private villas.

But once my initial awe wore off, I started

ride bikes to the stylish beach club, relax by

to see things more clearly. Most jarring was

the pool or sign up for a cooking class or

the fact that the resort’s buildings are less

olive-oil tasting for a dose of local culture.

than 10 years old. Il Borgo, the “Italian vil-

Many travelers — especially families or

lage,” was created entirely from scratch, and

multigenerational groups — will surely find

ROOM TO BOOK La Corte Meravigliosa, for maximum space and sea views.

the grand architecture of La Corte seemed

a stay at Borgo Egnazia to be an engaging

$$$; Savelletri di Fasano

almost flamboyantly meaningless. The décor

and luxurious experience.

of burlap sacks full of almonds and haphazard stacks of faux-antique paper appeared novel

PALAZZO BOZZI CORSO

at first, but it began to look like clutter. In

From Borgo Egnazia, we traveled to Lecce,

our room, a giant cement trough full of sand

finding the 2,000-year-old city bathed in a

served absolutely no purpose.

sparkling golden light. We made a few wrong

3

Lobby, La Fiermontina Palazzo Bozzi Corso, Lecce

“I WISH WE COULD HAVE STAYED FOR A MONTH. turns in the baroque center’s narrow one-way

daughter, whose mother is the princess of

streets before we reached the 10-room La

Morocco), a 720-square-foot space with par-

Fiermontina Palazzo Bozzi Corso. No signage

quet floors, high ceilings, a fireplace and a

alerted us that we were in the right place —

balcony overlooking the city. A formal salon,

just an enormously heavy door. When I rang

honor bar and game room right outside our

the buzzer, a door-within-a-door opened and

suite might have been an extension of our

a bellman welcomed us, efficiently retriev-

accommodations (we never saw another soul

ing our luggage and whisking our car away.

there). We also enjoyed relaxing in the rooftop

As I stepped into the palazzo’s bright

lounge by its tiny plunge pool, and guests

entryway with a soaring glass ceiling, I knew

are welcome to use a larger pool at the sister

we had arrived somewhere special. Though

property, La Fiermontina Luxury Home.

the building dates to the 18th century, the

Palazzo Bozzi Corso is a one-of-a-kind

décor has a modern edge, with contemporary

hotel i n a beaut i f u l c it y t h at rem a i ns

art and sculptures and design-forward furni-

unspoiled by tourism. I wish we could have

ture. Mixing too many styles can sometimes

stayed for a month.

appear sloppy, but here the décor looked intentional and perfectly executed. The art in

PARAGON 700

the hotel, owned by siblings Fouad Giacomo

In Ostuni, just outside the maze of the hill-

and Antonia Yasmina-Filali, is meticulously

top village, we checked into Paragon 700,

curated and surprisingly personal. Family

an 11-room hotel that opened in a former

photos line the walls between notable works

palazzo in 2020. Of all our hotel stays in

of modern art, and the suites are named after

Puglia, Paragon 700 was perhaps the “cool-

illustrious friends and family members,

est.” That’s not necessarily a good thing.

including Lady Madeleine Astor and artist

Instead of offering effortless and low-key

Jacques Zwobada. I felt like we were spending

sophistication, Paragon 700 takes pains to

a weekend at the home of a fabulous and

be hip, creating an aesthetic that felt trendy

well-connected friend.

and prematurely dated — think apron-clad

We booked the shockingly affordable Suite

bartenders mixing up overly complicated

Deluxe Lalla Soukaïna (named after Fouad’s

(and frankly substandard) cocktails, tasteless

4

L A FIERMONTINA PA L A Z ZO B OZ Z I CORSO R AT I N G 9 5

LIKE The welcoming and professional staff; the high ceilings; the delightful breakfast in the garden; the intimate rooftop bar; the interesting interior design.

DISLIKE The paper-thin walls; the tiny pool; the absence of a spa.

GOOD TO KNOW The included breakfast in the courtyard is fabulous, but without an on-site restaurant, you’re on your own for lunch and dinner.

On the roof, there’s a bar serving light snacks at aperitivo hour.

ROOM TO BOOK The hotel’s rooms all have different styles and amenities, but we recommend any of the deluxe suites. $$; Lecce

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T February 2024

contemporary art that’s meant to be cheeky and a grating soundtrack of pop music at the otherwise serene pool.

It’s a testament to the hotel’s spirit — and the friendly and welcoming staff — that in spite of a few unfortunate style choices, I can still recommend this property. Our expansive Paragon Suite was absolutely gorgeous, with original frescoes, antique furnishings, a huge patio and a round sunken tub that was so large we nicknamed it the human cauldron. In the early evenings, the room was dazzling, bathed in a rose-gold glow that illuminated the frescoes and ornate details of the furniture.

Our first meal at Paragon 700 was lunch under the pergola near the pool, where I dined on a simple yet refined dish of linguine with tiny shelled clams finished with basil oil. It was so exquisite that we decided to return for

Lounge Bar 700, Paragon 700, Ostuni

dinner the next night. In the evening, lanterns transformed the property. We dined outside, where we enjoyed a sophisticated multicourse

salt scrubs, Ayurvedic massages and facials.

meal that included decadent gnocchi and a

The property is a short walk from the

perfectly cooked turbot fillet served with

charming shops and restaurants in Ostuni,

fresh vegetables. It turned out to be one of

and it’s a convenient base for day trips to

the most romantic and delicious meals of our

nearby villages. Though even just the name

entire trip. The pool, soundtrack aside, ended

of Paragon 700 suggests it’s geared toward

up being a relaxing escape during the hottest

younger guests, travelers of any age who

part of the day. In addition, the one-room spa

love creative and character-rich boutique

in the palace’s former cistern, accessed by a

hotels would be happy here. Indeed, most of

hidden staircase, is surprisingly impressive

the other guests we encountered were over

for such a tiny space, with a steam room, a

60 (with the exception of a thirtysomething

hydromassage tub and treatments such as

couple on their honeymoon).

PA R AG O N 70 0 R AT I N G 9 3

LIKE The convenient location; the excellent restaurant; the feeling of staying at a mini-resort.

DISLIKE The inattentive service and grating music by the pool; the gauche art.

GOOD TO KNOW Navigating the narrow streets to reach the hotel can be a bit hair-raising, but valet parking on-site is free, and the village is in walking distance.

Paragon Suite, Paragon 700

ROOM TO BOOK The Paragon Suite for its sunset views and original frescoes.

BENEFITS A $100 hotel credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.

GREGORY VENERE

$$; Ostuni

5

HOTEL PHOTOGR APHY

Horseback excursion near Masseria Torre Maizza

MASSERIA TO R R E M A I Z Z A , A ROCCO FORTE H OT E L

Masseria Torre Maizza, Savelletri di Fasano

R AT I N G 9 2

MASSERIA TORRE MAIZZA

appointed bath with a skylight — the only other window besides the French doors. Our junior suite was so dark that we had to have

I aimed to save the best for last. We spent our

the lights on even during the brightest time

final Puglian nights at the 40-room Masseria

of the day. Exacerbating the poor design were

Torre Maizza, opened by the Rocco Forte

two massive TVs, one facing the bed and one

group in 2019. It provided a welcome antidote

in the living area. (I learned only too late that

to the sprawling and authenticity-challenged

it’s only the Deluxe Suites With Terrace and

Borgo Egnazia.

Garden that have so few windows.)

Here, the hotel is actually in a former

Although I booked precisely the wrong

masseria, as opposed to an entirely new

room category, we enjoyed our time here

building. Like Borgo Egnazia, the property

immensely. We lounged beside the pool,

also has a golf course, pool and nearby beach

shaded by a wisteria-draped pergola. At the

club, but it’s all at a much smaller and more

minimalist Irene Forte Spa, I indulged in a

intimate scale. Torre Maizza has a timeless

facial with an expert technician (and I was

style and a quiet elegance — nothing about

happy to bring home the complimentary

it is flashy, overbuilt or self-consciously

Irene For te a menities from our room).

glamorous. When comparing the two hotels,

During cocktail hour, a musician serenaded

I was reminded of the saying “money talks,

us while we sipped Negronis and snacked on

wealth whispers.”

canapés. Dinner in the beautiful outdoor

I appreciated the overall atmosphere of

dining space was the ideal mix of formal and

the property, with its whitewashed buildings

casual, with attentive staff serving homey

covered in bougainvillea, but our accommo-

and simple dishes of farm-fresh ingredients

dations proved disappointing. Our Deluxe

in unstuffy preparations.

Junior Suite With Terrace and Garden had a

My stay here reaffirmed my faith in

railroad-style floor plan, with a set of French

the hospitality expertise of Rocco Forte.

doors leading into a sitting area. Behind

Masseria Torre Maizza offered attention

a folding screen there was a desk and the

to detail that’s missing from far too many

bed, and beyond that a spacious and well-

five-star hotels. H

6

LIKE The quiet elegance; the chic and affordable boutique; the stylish beach club; the upscale but unfussy restaurant.

DISLIKE The patches of dead grass on the golf course; the minimal natural light in our room.

GOOD TO KNOW While the property is lovely, it’s close to an area of industrial farms, and the immediate vicinity has little charm.

ROOM TO BOOK A Deluxe Suite With Plunge Pool, for maximum light, space and privacy.

BENEFITS A $100 hotel credit for stays in a room or junior suite; a $200 hotel credit for stays of two or more nights in a suite; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability. $$$$; Savelletri di Fasano

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T February 2024

A N ITA LI A N I CO N R E V I S ITE D

O

n our final full day in Italy, we flew back to Rome. We decided to skip the city altogether in order

to revisit one of the country’s most famous

STEFANO SCATÀ

OUR STAY IN A ROMANTIC VILLA ON THE SEA

seaside hotels, La Posta Vecchia. The storied and long-recommended property is in an otherwise unremarkable town about 35 minutes from the airport, making it convenient for the first or last days of an Italian vacation.

The Castello Suite, La Posta Vecchia, Ladispoli

We arrived on a drizzly afternoon, but the property still looked glorious. Built in the 17th century to house overflow guests of

which means that this property has been

the Orsini family, who ruled from the castle

welcoming notable guests since about 200

next door, the hotel is best known as a former

B.C. A tiny spa occupies a different section

retreat of Jean Paul Getty, who furnished it

of the cellar.

with Renaissance-era treasures. Our sea-view

We didn’t experience any spectral activity,

room was ornate but tasteful, with intricate

but we did have a tangible sensation that we

antique furnishings offset by more casual

were in a place layered with history.

details, like plain wooden ceiling beams and

Once the sun went down, the dimly lit

a tile floor covered with a simple woven rug.

mansion felt like the setting of a glamorous

Earlier in the summer, I had been on a

murder mystery. Piano music echoed through

yacht in Sardinia with a friend who was a guest

the hotel, while flickering candles adorned

of the Gettys in the 1970s. “It’s haunted,” my

every surface. The dining room was especially

friend warned. “But you should really make

romantic. We settled in at one of the marble

sure to see the basement.” The basement,

tables, where I enjoyed a perfectly tender beef

we learned, is home to Roman ruins that

carpaccio and a soup made with vegetables

were discovered during Getty’s renovation.

from the hotel’s garden. The next morning,

Excavations revealed an ancient Roman villa,

that same dining room looked bright and cheery. A long central table heaved with pastries, meats, cheeses and other dishes.

Ristorante the Cesar, La Posta Vecchia

Despite the romantic atmosphere (in fact, they were setting up for a wedding on the day we departed), this hotel is old, if not a bit eerie. Our bath had an odd staircase to nowhere and ancient plumbing.

Sometimes the quirks and idiosyncrasies of a historic property can feel like a nuisance,

L A P O S TA VECCHIA

R AT I N G 9 2 LIKE The greenhouse-like pool room; the romantic atmosphere; the impressive collection of antiques; the feeling of being a guest in a mansion.

DISLIKE The spooky cellar spa; the minor issues with cleanliness such as visible dust.

GOOD TO KNOW Though it’s on the sea, this is not the right hotel for those imagining a sundrenched Amalfi Coastlike holiday. The hotel’s private beach is tiny, and the water was a bit murky during our visit.

ROOM TO BOOK The Getty Suite, a contemporary reimagining of the room Jean Paul Getty used as his own. $$; Ladispoli

and in other instances they add to the charm and ambience. This, fortunately, was a case of the latter. Others may argue the property is due for an overhaul, but I think it’s magnificent just the way it is. H

7

MIRCEA COSTINA / ADOBE STOCK

Nauset Beach, Cape Cod, Massachusetts

NEW ENGLAND ESCAPES

C H AT H A M I N N R AT I N G 8 9

Where to stay and not to stay in Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard and Newport

T

he flexed arm of Massachusetts,

cream shops and seafood-focused restaurants.

Cape Cod is one of those wonderful

At one end of the half-mile commercial

places that offers both rich history

stretch is the gabled Chatham Inn, built in

and extravagant natural beauty. This time,

1830 and reportedly “the oldest continu-

we rented a car and explored the Lower Cape

ously operating inn on Cape Cod.” Recently

from a base at Chatham, in the elbow of

expanded and renovated, the 18-room prop-

the peninsula, and rambled along the Cape

erty has earned an array of plaudits and is

Cod National Seashore stretching north

now a member of a major small-luxury-hotel

from there.

association.

We continued to the island of Martha’s Vine-

The Chatham Inn ma kes a fine first

yard and charming Edgartown, famous for its

impression, its classic gray-and-white façade

well-preserved 18th- and 19th-century homes

fronted by a broad veranda and a line of

constructed during the town’s whaling era.

Adirondack chairs on its lawn.

Our itinerary finished with another historic

After locally inspired welcome cocktails of

city, Newport, Rhode Island, where we tested

sparkling wine with a dash of cranberry, we

out a renovated mansion in the heart of town.

went to our ground-floor Fireplace room. It

CHATHAM INN

did not make a fine first impression, starting with the minute closet near the entrance.

The pedestrian-friendly Main Street of

Farther in, I discovered quite a compact

Chatham has numerous colorful boutiques

accommodation for the price. I liked its

selling resortwear and coast-themed souve-

blond-wood-plank flooring and woodburning

nirs, and — more interesting to me — ice

fireplace (usable in cold months only), but

8

LIKE The low room count; the welcoming and personal service; the superlative restaurant; the hardcopy newspapers available each morning; the location within easy walking distance of Chatham’s downtown.

DISLIKE Our compact room’s poor soundproofing; the lack of water views; the occasional service stumbles.

GOOD TO KNOW The staff will provide chairs and an umbrella to take to the nearby beach; a nature trail behind the hotel leads to a picturesque bay and wetlands.

ROOM TO BOOK The two Premier Fireplace rooms, for their separate tubs and showers. $$; Chatham, Cape Cod

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T February 2024

considering the recent renovation, I was sur-

desk just pointed us on our way, with no offer

prised by the 1980s dresser and dated-looking

of a room tour or luggage assistance. Later

brown-marble shower. Soundproofing was

at the main pool, we found the host stand

inadequate, and our little terrace was viewless.

unoccupied. The waiter never noticed our

The staff provided mostly thoughtful and

periodic waves at him. And at lunch, we had

personalized service, and we had a superb

an enviable waterfront table at Libaytion, but

dinner in the justly acclaimed restaurant,

the service was quite slow, resulting in tepid

Cuvée at Chatham Inn, where we relished

and crunchless fried-cod tacos.

a seafood-forward French-inspired tasting

Our Premier Water view K ing Room

menu. But the commendable service and

cou ld n’t be descr ibed a s st yl ish, but it

restaurant couldn’t make up for the defi-

offered ample space. The pea-green sofa,

ciencies of our room.

seafoam-striped wallpaper and beachy giclées

WEQUASSETT RESORT

contrasted the chocolate wall-to-wall carpet, and beyond sliding glass doors, a broad deck

Had the Chatham Inn been the only upscale

with cushioned loungers afforded utterly

hotel in the area, I might still have recom-

beguiling views of pleasure boats moored in

mended the property for its two Premier

placid Round Cove — an ideal place to settle

Fireplace rooms. But in too many respects,

in with a novel.

Wequassett Resort and Golf Club, located

At the resort’s highest point is an 18th-

only about 10 minutes up the coast by car,

century residence, greatly expanded to house

is a superior choice. Its 120 accommoda-

a cozy pub, a pastry counter and Twenty-E ight

tions are spread out across the property’s 27

Atlantic, the airy gourmet restaurant. One

waterfront acres, along with several bars and

flawless evening, we sat by a fire pit on the

restaurants, tennis and pickleball courts, a

Promenade just below it, sipping aperitifs

beach and two swimming pools. The resort’s

while watching the sunset turn Pleasant

award-winning Cape Cod National Golf Club

Bay to opal. At dinner, I loved my halibut,

is available only to Wequassett members and

but the “guest favorite” lobster carbonara

guests. Well-manicured gardens (and a large

disappointed, with its underseasoned sauce

parking lot) fill in the rest of the property.

atop overcooked bucatini. Exciting wines

Service, it must be said, was generally bet-

by the glass were an unqualified success. At

ter at the Chatham Inn. The staff at Wequas-

breakfast there the next day, I indulged in a

sett was unfailingly friendly but not always

decadent lobster Benedict piled high with

helpful. When we received our key, the front

tender, buttery meat.

Outer Bar & Grille and seaside pool, Wequasset Resort, Cape Cod

W E Q UA S S E T T RESORT AND G O L F C LU B R AT I N G 9 2

LIKE The setting spanning two tranquil bays; the numerous amenities; the large kids’ club and many family-friendly connecting rooms; the adults-only lap pool beside the spa.

DISLIKE The various service issues we experienced; the dated furnishings and décor in our room.

GOOD TO KNOW A free scheduled motor launch takes guests to secluded Outer Beach.

ROOM TO BOOK Water-view accommodations on the second floor have the most privacy.

BENEFITS A seal-tour boat ride (advance registration required); a $100 resort credit; a welcome Cape Cod tasting; daily breakfast for two at Twenty-Eight Atlantic; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability. $$$; Harwich, Cape Cod

KICKSTAND / GETT Y IMAGES

The Cliffs at Gay Head, Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts

That morning, we took advantage of the Q Club benefit of a complimentary seal-watching excursion. The captain motored us and just one other couple to a nearby sand bar

“NEARBY AND FAR BETTER IS THE HARBOR VIEW HOTEL.

packed with the giant creatures basking in the sun. We even spotted a few adorable pups.

En route, we gazed at bluff-top mansions

our room couldn’t actually find our accommo-

with envy and considered consulting a local

dations. He left us outside while he returned

real estate agent.

to reception for directions. That was a first!

While Wequassett has a few problems, I

Alas, our one-bedroom suite at the rear

don’t hesitate to recommend the resort. Its

of Chappy House was essentially a garden

scenic setting, numerous activity options and

apartment. The patio smelled faintly of

highly comfortable accommodations made me

skunk. Inside, we found a turntable and a

wish we’d stayed just one more day (or three).

few records (de rigueur in hotels of this sort)

FARAWAY MARTHA’S VINEYARD

and a highly fashionable ’70s-inspired décor.

The compact bath offered almost no counter space, and inside the kitchenette’s dishwasher

But duty called us to continue on to Edgar-

were a previous guest’s glasses. I tried to call

town, and we boarded a ferry at New Bed-

housekeeping, but the phone didn’t work.

ford. Right in the heart of things is the new

We decamped to two of the many loungers

Faraway Martha’s Vineyard, occupying the

beside the large swimming pool. There, the

refurbished and rethought Kelley House, a

quick but incompetent bartender brought

hotel that once housed the cast and crew of

ice-filled tumblers to accompany our rosé.

the film “Jaws.” Its 58 accommodations are

As we passed through the lobby the next

divided among the original buildings (the

morning on a hunt for breakfast — it’s not

oldest dates from 1742) and neighboring

served on-site — we heard another guest

cedar-shingled homes. We checked in only

compla ining t hat her room had no hot

a few months after it opened in June 2023

water. I can understand a new hotel and its

and discovered a self-consciously stylish

staff needing time to iron out the kinks. But

property as Instagram-ready as could be.

I feel less than charitable when I’m paying

But ready for discerning travelers it was not.

more than $1,400 a night to help them do so.

At check-in, we saw the manager fuss over a travel agent, a reminder of why we review

HARBOR VIEW HOTEL

hotels anonymously and pay our own way.

Nearby and far better is the Harbor View

The staff member who offered to lead us to

Hotel, on the edge of the historic center across

10

FA R AWAY M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D R AT I N G 8 7

LIKE The up-to-the-minute chic design; the inviting pool; the fashionable but relaxed Pelican Club bar; the indoor-outdoor fitness room facing the pool.

DISLIKE The consistently clumsy, bumbling service; our below-ground suite’s total lack of a view; our bath’s minimal counter space; the lack of a spa and breakfast service.

GOOD TO KNOW The hotel has fewer parking spaces than rooms; the 18th-century Newes Pub retains its traditional atmosphere.

ROOM TO BOOK Chappy House Premium King Studio Suite, for its balcony with town and harbor views. $$$$; Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T February 2024

Harbor View Hotel, Martha’s Vineyard

the street from a picturesque lighthouse

a single armchair, a king bed, a desk and a

and beach. Its classic-contemporary décor

shower-only bath. A beadboard accent wall

may not be as attention-grabbing on social

and original moldings around the doors gave

media, but the hotel offers higher levels of

the room vintage character, while the mix of

both service and comfort in real life. Its 117

earthy and nautical colors felt fresh.

rooms occupy the original historic building

We enjoyed watching the drama of a

(also home to reception and the two restau-

storm from the veranda fronting the historic

rants) and the newer Roxana wing facing

building, but the weather prevented us from

the courtyard swimming pool, plus one- to

testing out the pool bar. I consoled myself

three-bedroom lodgings in eight cottages.

with a half-dozen local oysters and a super-

Since new owners overhauled the entire

lative lobster roll in the casual Clubhouse

complex in 2019 at great expense, we opted

restaurant, while fellow patrons cheered a

for accommodations in the original 1891

college football game. We had a quieter and

building, the only structure facing the sea.

more upscale dinner at Bettini, including

The vista from our Historic Building Ocean

the platonic ideal of a New England crab

View King, which directly overlooked the

cake and local black sea bass with baby beets

Edgartown Harbor Lighthouse, was unim-

and a basil emulsion. At breakfast, the host

peachable, though the room itself was small

remembered our (unfulfilled) request for a

for the price: more than $1,600 per night

window seat the previous evening and gave

including taxes and fees. It had space for

us a prime table.

Presidental Skyhouse terrace, Harbor View Hotel

HARBOR VIEW H OT E L R AT I N G 9 1

LIKE The quiet but convenient location on the edge of Edgartown; the water views from many accommodations; the family-friendly atmosphere; the refreshed classic décor; the fine main restaurant; the can-do staff.

DISLIKE The small size of our room for the price; the absence of a spa; our fumbled room-service order.

GOOD TO KNOW A shuttle takes guests to and from downtown; complimentary bicycles and two Mercedes-Benz vehicles are available (first come, first served); the hotel is popular for weddings.

ROOM TO BOOK Accommodations in the Presidential Skyhouse Wing, for their views and privacy. $$$; Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard

11

The classic Harbor View Hotel, with its consistently professional and helpful staff and seaside location, is the top resort choice on Martha’s Vineyard. Those preferring an opulent mansionlike environment rich with antiques should opt instead for The Charlotte Inn. This long-recommended 19-room property, with its dedication to both tradition and high levels of service, is exactly the sort of old-school hideaway that Andrew Harper members have appreciated since the company’s founding 45 years ago.

THE VANDERBILT We returned to the mainland, but we headed straight for another island city, Newport.

Mansions positively litter the town, not just the famous Cliff Walk bluff overlooking the sea.

Rooftop deck, The Vanderbilt, Newport, Rhode Island

Some, like The Vanderbilt, Auberge Resorts Collection, are now hotels. Although it’s not on the water, this recently overhauled 33-room

carte breakfasts. Inclement weather pre-

property has an enviably central location.

vented us from enjoying the panoramic

An energetic valet emerged as we pulled

roof terrace and the swimming pool in the

up to the main entrance, bustling our bags

garden patio, but the rain made the lavishly

inside and parking our car. Glasses of compli-

furnished lounges all the cozier. Guests can

“COMPLIMENTARY TABLESIDE MARTINI SERVICE WAS A DELIGHTFUL PRELUDE TO A DELICIOUS SEAFOOD FEAST. mentary local rosé in hand, we ascended the

also take advantage of the cellar’s lap pool,

double staircase in the grand entry hall to our

fitness room and spa.

accommodations on the second floor (eleva-

We gravitated instead to the welcoming

tors are also available). Our Alfred Suite, the

bar in the candlelit Dining Room restaurant,

friendly front desk employee told us, was one

where friendly mixologists poured creative

of the best rooms in the hotel. Indeed, it was

craft cocktails. Of course, we also took advan-

quite spacious, with a stylish, eclectic décor.

tage of the Q Club benefit arranged by the

But the renovated suite was also now dark

Andrew Harper Travel Office: complimentary

enough to suit a vampire. Walls, ceilings

tableside martini service, a delightful prelude

and carpet were all a sort of gunmetal blue,

to a delicious seafood feast.

and though the tall windows illuminated

Newport visitors have a choice to make.

the living room, shelves stocked with chic

The Vanderbilt has fashionable décor, a

art books and antiques blocked most of the

central location and resortlike amenities, but

natural light from reaching the rest of the

interiors are dark, and baths can be small.

space, including the startlingly small bath.

Long-recommended Castle Hill Inn isn’t

Much of the hotel was similarly crepuscu-

within walking distance of most attractions or

lar. One might say The Vanderbilt is the

restaurants. But it offers sea views and an

anti-Auberge du Soleil.

THE VANDERBILT, AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION R AT I N G 9 1 LIKE The convenient location; the many well-preserved architectural details; the attractively eclectic style; the public spaces that feel both cozy and grand; the large size of our Alfred Suite; the fine restaurant; the eager-to-help staff.

DISLIKE Our (renovated) suite’s dark atmosphere and compact bath that had almost no storage space.

GOOD TO KNOW One of the lounges has a “secret” bar in the wall used mostly for absinthe service; the 14 remaining unrenovated rooms are due for completion in spring 2024.

ROOM TO BOOK An Elise One Bedroom Suite, some of which have partial water views (one has a fireplace).

appealing classic design that’s much brighter.

BENEFITS Tableside martini service; a $100 resort credit; daily breakfast; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade upon arrival, subject to availability.

The mansion’s brightest room was the

Either property would make for an exceedingly

$$$; Newport

conservatory, an airy space for hearty à la

comfortable base for touring the region. H

12

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T February 2024

N E W E N G L A N D N OTE B O O K

RESTAURANT FINDS CAPE COD

IMPUDENT OYSTER

A block off Chatham’s Main Street, this restaurant’s cheerful dining room has white tablecloths, but it still feels cozy and casual, especially with its lively bar in the back. Since we went at lunch, I appreciated the option of creative mocktails.

A tart “Lovey Duck” cut through the richness of superb classic clam chowder. The drink also refreshed my palate between bites of a decadent Nantucket scallop sandwich, with crumbled bacon, melted Monterey jack and tartar sauce. It was a delicious change of pace from lobster rolls. CLOSED TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY. 15 CHATHAM BARS AVENUE, CHATHAM.

PATE’S

Pate’s has a more formal atmosphere than the Impudent Oyster, though certain missteps sabotaged any fine dining aspirations. Kitchen staff clad in baseball hats, T-shirts and shorts sometimes served the food, for example, and massmarket labels marred the wine list. Even so, I found a zippy Portuguese Albariño to pair with my perfectly fresh local bluefin tuna sashimi. I indulged in a much heavier main course: surf and turf with tender medium-rare flat iron steak and almost al dente lobster ravioli topped with lobster chunks, served atop a luscious pool of truffle cream sauce. It was as good as it sounds, and I finished the entire thing. CLOSED SUNDAY. 1260 MAIN STREET, CHATHAM.

Tuna cones with wasabi foam, scallions, ginger, soy and sesame, Pate’s

Chef/owner Kevin O’Donnell, Giusto

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

NEWPORT

THE COVINGTON

GIUSTO

Low lighting and candles give this Edgartown storefront restaurant a romantic look, but closely spaced seating keeps things convivial. The menu offers small plates with Iberian and Italian influences.

We split a hearty dish of warm zucchini, green beans and shallots garnished with creamy saffron aioli. I continued with a Portuguese classic, chorizo and clams, in this case a bowl of local bivalves and sausage bathed in coconut milk and accompanied by housemade focaccia.

A slightly sweet Oregon Chenin Blanc helped temper the big flavors. The cocktails looked tempting, too. CLOSED TUESDAY AND FROM COLUMBUS DAY TO MEMO-

Opened in 2020, this Italian -fusion restaurant in the Hammetts Hotel has a fashionable wood-beamed dining room along its lengthy bar, but we sat in the back. There, a terrace, which can be either open or enclosed, overlooked pleasure boats docked in the town’s storied harbor.

We started with cool lettuce wraps filled with sweet Jonah crab, ripe mango and crunchy dried chickpeas. Both pastas we tried arrived overcooked, but they tasted delicious, especially the plate of creative elotes-inspired ravioli. My main course of local halibut was an unqualified success, and the almost all-Italian wine list contained numerous appealing selections.

RIAL DAY. 52 MAIN STREET, EDGARTOWN.

4 COMMERCIAL WHARF, NEWPORT.

SEAFOOD SHANT Y

THE MOORING SEAFOOD KITCHEN & BAR

Crowds flock to this informal option as much for its peerless views of Edgartown’s harbor as for its menu. But I would return to have another warm lobster roll here even if I faced a blank wall. A great pile of claw and tail meat overflowed from the center of a soft, toasted torpedo roll.

The lobster came already buttered, but I doused it with more from a ramekin on the side. The accompanying fries were hot and crunchy, and a crisp local ale contrasted the richness. In fine weather, the lively roof deck is the place to be.

CLOSED MID-OCTOBER TO MID-MAY. 31 DOCK STREET, EDGARTOWN.

Like Giusto, this large and popular restaurant also has a bright harborside dining room that can be open or closed to the docks. We sat near the harbor and took advantage of the impressive raw bar, ordering a selection of briny and sweet Rhode Island oysters. A special of local fluke came with a delectable golden crust, plus a well-considered combination of silky fennel purée, sweet roasted beets and salty green olives. Service was commendably professional throughout our lunch. 1 SAYERS WHARF, NEWPORT.

13

C RU I S E N E WS

NEW YEAR, NEW SHIPS Itineraries span the globe, from the natural wonders of Australia and the breathtaking Norwegian fjords to the glamorous waters of the Caribbean and Europe’s most picturesque rivers

Amalfi Coast, the Greek Isles, Rome, Barcelona and the like — and then the Caribbean.

It accommodates 448 guests in 224 suites, considerably more than the 298 passengers carried by its smaller sister ship, the 149-suite Evrima. The Ilma boasts 14 of the brand’s larger accommodations, including two with more than 1,000 square feet in two new categories. Elsewhere on board, amenities include 11 restaurants and bars, a wine vault, a spacious spa, two pools and an aft marina at the water’s edge. There, guests can lounge on its deck and shaded mezzanine, order cocktails and light bites, and dive into the sea to enjoy water sports.

CUNARD

Explora Journeys’ second ship, the 461-suite Explora II, sets sail in August. Identical to Explora I, it will first ply the Mediterranean, calling on ports in Spain, Portugal and northern Africa, before repositioning to the Caribbean. Guests can avoid crowds ashore with unconventional arrival and departure times, plus overnight stays ensure more time in popular destinations such as Casablanca, Ibiza and Lisbon. Guests will find plenty to do on sea days as well, considering the four pools, an expansive spa, 12 bars and lounges and 11 culinary experiences (most notably a for-fee restaurant featuring a rotating roster of Michelin-starred chefs). Expect an elegant boutique hotel vibe on this ship, in both the public spaces and in its ocean-facing suites with high-end furnishings by top Italian brands, baths with heated floors, Frette linens and Dyson Supersonic hair dryers.

THE RITZ- CARLTON YACHT COLLECTION

In September, the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection launches its second superyacht, Ilma, which the company touts as having one of the highest guest-to-space ratios at sea. In its inaugural season, the new-build will first sail in the Mediterranean — with stops in the

14

“INACCESSIBLE

BY ROAD, PORT DAVEY IS ‘ONE OF THE WORLD’S FEW REMAINING PLACES OF RAW, UNTAMED BEAUTY.’

Excursion in Port Davey, Tasmania, from the Odalisque III

MARK DAFFEY / ON BOARD

EXPLOR A JOURNEYS

Cunard, a gold standard for large-ship cruising, soon debuts its first new ship in 13 years.

The 2,996-passenger Queen Anne sets sail on its maiden voyage in May, a round trip from Southampton with stops in La Coruña and Lisbon. It will then cruise to a variety of other destinations — including the Canary Islands, the Norwegian fjords and the Medi-

terranean — with most sailings embarking at the English port. A world cruise departs from Europe in January 2025. Elite design firms such as the David Collins Studio (which created the bar within London’s posh Claridge’s hotel) have given the ship a bolder, more modern look with much more color

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T February 2024

IAN SCHEMPER

Uniworld’s S.S. Elisabeth on the Rhine

than on Cunard’s other ships. Among public spaces are three restaurants specializing in Japanese, Indian and Mediterranean cuisine; a show bar with live entertainment; and a top-deck wellness studio.

accommodates up to 12 guests in cabins with knee-to-ceiling windows that offer splendid views of untouched waterways, mountains and forests. Meals feature sustainable Tasmanian seafood, wines and whiskeys.

ON BOARD

SILVERSEA

The newest member of Luxury Lodges of Australia explores the remotest areas of the least populous state in the Land Down Under. The Odalisque III is a purpose-built, luxury catamaran launched last year by On Board, a family-owned business that specializes in Tasmanian wilderness expeditions. The signature experience: a five- or seven-day floating adventure to Port Davey, a protected marine reserve and national park inaccessible by road that the company calls “one of the world’s few remaining places of raw, untamed beauty.” The 79-foot vessel

Signature Suite bath, Silver Nova

Silver Ray, the second Nova Class ship from Silversea, sets sail in the Mediterranean in June. Like its sister, Silver Nova, the 728-passenger beauty will feature amazing views from front to back on decks with public areas, thanks to a more open plan with no cabins on those levels. An asymmetrical design helps as well. Rather than being in the center of Deck 10, for example, the main pool (the largest in Silversea’s fleet) is off to one side and overlooks the ocean, as does the new outdoor Marquee restaurant on the same deck, one of the ship’s eight dining venues. An abundance of glass enhances the views on interior decks with public areas. All 364 suites are ocean-facing with verandas, and eight deliver 270-degree views with their corner locations and floor-to-ceiling glass walls. As with Silver Nova, advanced hybrid technology makes it one of the world’s first low-emission cruise ships.

UNIWORLD

Uniworld Boutique River Cruises is expanding its fleet by chartering two luxury vessels that were originally custom-built for Crystal Cruises. Uniworld renamed the identical ships and will operate them under a threeyear agreement, using an all-Uniworld crew

and raising their luxe level another notch with the company’s signature “Tiny Noticeable Touches,” such as original art and fresh flowers. The S.S. Victoria begins sailing the Mosel and Rhine rivers — with their scenic vineyard- and castled-lined landscapes — in March, and the S.S. Elisabeth starts plying the Rhine in 2025. The 55-suite ships each carry 110 guests, and both boast two spacious 506-square-foot Royal Suites, one of them expandable to 759 square feet and two bedrooms by booking the standard suite adjoining it. All suites feature king-size beds facing full-length windows. Three dining venues as well as a gym, pool and massage room add appeal to the ships.

&BEYOND

In an exclusive agreement with the owners of Cachalote, a sleek 75-foot luxury yacht, &Beyond now offers four- to 10-day private sailings through Chile’s scenic Chiloé archipelagoes. The four-cabin charmer pampers eight guests on tailor-made journeys packed with exciting activities, including stand-up paddleboarding, trekking across beautiful islands, visiting hot springs and exploring iconic towns with traditional markets and historic wooden architecture. On board, guests can relax in a comfy living room, dine on Chilean delicacies, take in views of Patagonia’s spectacular landscape and abundant wildlife (orcas, in season) from the fly bridge, and unwind on an inviting stern deck with sundowners.

15

L A S T WO R D

ISR AEL CRU CES

M E M B E R S P OTLI G HT

A selfie in Botswana, with Brian and Marion Vincent; their guide, Max; and friend Israel Cruces (right).

Above: One of Cruces’ photographs featuring lion cubs. See more of his impressive work in the online article at AndrewHarper.com.

W

e love reading about the travels of Andrew Harper members, and it occurred to us that you might as well. With that in mind, we’ve started this new Hideaway Report column that highlights your own globe-trotting adventures. First up, our interview with Brian and Marion Vincent following their trip to Botswana.

How did you first hear about Andrew Harper?

During a Botswana safari in 2022, we met a fellow vegan traveler. She had booked a trip to Africa through Andrew Harper and was quite impressed by your agency. In fact, she raved about how well organized the trip was, how luxurious the safari camps were and how many animals she saw during her journey.

So last year we joined Andrew Harper and requested assistance with coordinating a return to Botswana.

How did you enjoy the safari that the Travel Office planned?

Our first trip to Africa really left an impression on Marion and me. We fell in love with Botswana. The landscapes are breathtaking, the opportunity to view wildlife roaming freely is unparalleled there, and the people of Botswana we met were so generous, kind and joyful. We just had to return. And what a trip it was! We spent 15 days on safari at five camps and went on 29 game drives.

We experienced so many memorable events! Nearly every day on safari we saw leopards and lions. While in the Okavango Delta, we were able to watch a mother leopard and her nearly fully grown male cub playing.

We also witnessed the live birth of a wildebeest. Within 30 minutes, the calf was up and running! Along the gorgeous Chobe River we viewed hippos, crocodiles, lions and countless bird species. For nearly two hours, we watched a pack of African wild dogs playing. Seeing these very rare animals was a major highlight of our trip. At one camp, staff drew outdoor bubble baths for us so we could relax under the stars.

Spending time with the San people left me conflicted. While I enjoyed my time with them — they were engaging, gracious and displayed great senses of humor — I left feeling quite worried about their future.

The photographs you shared from your trip are sensational.

One of my closest friends, Israel Cruces, also came with us. Though his photography is quite impressive, he had only pursued photography as a hobby. We believe his talent should be shared with the world.

O

ver my 20 years with Andrew Harper, I’ve worked with numerous advisors in our Travel Office on countless undercover editorial trips. I like to consult our advisors about promising new hotel openings and the state of current recommendations, since their own forays give them valuable insight. We regularly send advisors out to inspect and stay in hotels featured in the Collection guidebooks and on our website.

They can also organize compelling excursions with top guides: Various experiences that advisors arranged were highlighted in this very Hideaway Report. At most of our recommended hotels, our Travel Office has negotiated special member benefits, such as dining credits and upgrades on arrival when available (I particularly love a spa credit, which gives me an excuse to test out an extravagant treatment). Most important, it’s reassuring to know that someone has my back if I encounter a problem while on the road. Our advisors are happy to assist with anything, from a weekend in New York City to a multicountry safari. In these rather uncertain times, it’s a good idea to have a travel professional behind you, regardless of your destination. We’ve recently expanded our office’s opening hours to keep up with member demand, and I encourage you to take advantage of its services.

Where are you off to next?

In December, we head to Rwanda to view mountain gorillas as as part of a vegan tour.

In 2025, we plan to work with Andrew Harper again to explore Kruger National Park and the Zambezi River and return to Botswana.

It is likely we will make annual pilgrimages to Africa, as we have fallen in love with the continent.

Do you have a travel story you would like to share? Contact us at AskHarper@ AndrewHarper.com, and we may feature you in the next Member Spotlight column!

EDITOR-IN- CHIEF

Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. Unless otherwise noted, Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously to hotels and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses.

U N LI M I T E D T R AV E L P L A N N I N G W H E N YO U B O O K W I T H U S AT 1 - 800-375- 4685 or Reservations@AndrewHarper.com The Hideaway Report is published monthly exclusively for Andrew Harper members by Andrew Harper, 209 W. Jackson Blvd., Suite 300, Chicago, IL 60606.

Copyright 2024. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.