FOOD - WINTER 2024
CAVIAR COME
K CA B
Black gold is making its way back in the food scene, and COLO MARKET has helped pick FIVE SPECIAL CAVIARS that will keep you AHEAD OF THE CURVE
Story by SAV McKEE Design by ATLAS BIRO
F
irst, it was for commoners – then, for kings. The history of caviar is both complex, yet expected, as with most current food trends.
Caviar was so inexpensive at one point that American taverns offered it for free, taking advantage of its saltiness to encourage thirsty patrons to drink more. Sturgeon, the primary source or caviar, thrived in American waters, leading colonists to view it as food just for the lower class and livestock. In contrast, sturgeons from European waters were deemed “Royal Fish,” with caviar reserved for the elite by law. Americans became more aware of the allure of these prized, precious pearls, and the price of caviar increased as American industries started shipping their caviar overseas. What was once a common tavern staple transformed into an extravagant treat. By the 1990s, sturgeon farms slowly began to emerge. In 1995, The Washington Post reported that “Caviar’s Back in the Mainstream,” often incorporated into upscale dishes like the Duck Foi Gras at The Four Seasons Hotel’s Garden Terrace, or as an accompaniment to the three-course dinners at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel’s Jockey Club. But despite its growing presence in the dining scene, caviar remained a special-occasion luxury, reserved for a night out at a five-star steakhouse.
PRECIOUS PEARLS The Osietra Caviar brilliantly sparkles with dark amber colors and golden hues. Originally hailing from the Treviso region of Italy, you can find it here in Columbus at COLO’s booth inside of the North Market locations. Photo by Sav McKee.
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