Auto Service Professional - February 2022

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FEBRUARY 2022 • VOL. 12, NO. 1

THE TECHNICIAN’S RESOURCE

MUTUAL BENEFITS

Courtesy checks help customers, service shops 5

OVERVIEW OF CV JOINT DESIGN, TIPS DIAGNOSTICS FOR BATTERY DRAW UNDERSTANDING GLOBAL SIDE OF SCAN TOOL

ASP | FEBRUARY 2021

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contents Auto Service Professional > The Technician’s Resource

For Owners

For Managers

CONTENTS

For Technicians

February 2022 Vol. 12, No. 01

Departments 04

STRAIGHT TALK Preparing for a New Year: Updating and refining your shop and yourself

08

TECH TIPS Dipsticks, coolants and more

39

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS Lincoln, Ford, Toyota and more: We have the bulletins you need to see

41

PRODUCTS New and innovative equipment for your tool chest and shop

42

AD INDEX Your connection to free information

12

Technical

14

12

COURTESY CHECKS These routine inspections help the customer and the shop.

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DIAGNOSTICS FOR PARASITIC DRAW The best appraoch to find what is casuing a drained battery.

08

22

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CV JOINT TECH An overview of joint design and service tips

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GLOBAL OBD-II DIAGNOSTICS A massive amount of data is available on the global side of a scan tool

FEBRUARY 2022 | ASP

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S T R A I G H T TA L K

Preparing for a New Year Updating and refining your shop and yourself WAS A CHALLENGE. IT AFFECTED

everyone, whether you are an owner or a technician. And, since many of you wear both of those hats, I suspect you stayed busier than normal — whatever normal is anymore.

Now that we have turned the calendar to 2022, it is crucial to block out time with no distractions to examine all aspects of your shop.

2021

OWNERS A good place to start would be to critique your shop’s overall atmosphere as viewed by the customer. The goal here is to make your customers feel good about patronizing the shop.

Is the shop attractive to the customer? Are there any alterations you can employ to further enhance customer service? This might be as simple as looking at potential updates such as a new paint job on the exterior of the building, a refreshed or redesigned sign, an upgrade to the landscaping or an improved parking lot.

Or, do a deep dive and make sure that you are taking advantage of all the latest technology that is available to communicate with your customers in whatever manner they want. While at it, verify that your website and e-commerce systems are state of the art.

Don’t forget about the waiting room or doing a service desk project, a visual impression that inspires consumer confidence. For instance, customers have become accustomed to seeing a flat-screen TV on the wall. It can provide customers with a distraction while waiting. Also, with regard to automotive service operations, this is an opportunity to run brief promos from various parts manufacturers as well as tips on preventive maintenance.

Every professionally operated shop makes an effort to keep the shop uncluttered, well-lit and organized. Visual impressions can have a profound effect on how customers (especially first-time customers) view the operation.

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The same goes for your equipment. Are your scanners updated with the latest data? Is software for your alignment equipment and A/C equipment updated with the latest applications? Is the shop ready and capable to address advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS) service, both in terms of hardware/software as well as technician training? Have you given your technicians all of the tools and equipment they need to succeed?

TECHNICIANS This is the perfect time to finish that class you started online or to look into the next steps for the next accreditations you desire. Have you really looked at all of the technical training that’s available from your vendors?

What other training can help you and the vision you have for the shop?

Is it time to invest in new hand tools to replace those that no longer work quite as well as you would like?

Do you have a plan in place to upgrade your diagnostic equipment instead of waiting until the last minute? And, as much as we all hate to think about it — is it time to get rid of some of your way-too-old work clothes and invest in new ones?

Viewing the new year as an opportunity to refine and update your plan is vital to keep abreast of the ever-evolving automotive industry changes and advancements. Planning for the year now is far more advantageous than playing catchup as the year progresses.

M I K E M AV R I G I A N EDITOR

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FEBRUARY 2022 | ASP

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THE TECHNICIAN’S RESOURCE

OnlIne

3515 Massillon Rd., Suite 350, Uniontown, OH 44685 (330) 899-2200, fax (330) 899-2209 Website: autoserviceprofessional.com

PUBLISHER Greg Smith: gsmith@10missions.com (330) 899-2200, Ext. 2212

EDITORIAL Editor: Mike Mavrigian birchwdag@frontier.com Managing Editor: Ron Ledgard rledgard@10missions.com Senior Editor & Digital Projects Editor: Joy Kopcha, jkopcha@10missions.com

PRODUCTION Art Director: Zach Pate Graphic Designer: Emme Osmonson Production Artist: Lauren Coleman Production Manager: Karen Runion krunion@10missions.com

CONTRIBUTORS Jeff Taylor, Diagnostics & Driveability Specialist Bill Fulton, ASE Master Tech Jake Sorensen, McNeil’s Auto Care

ADVISORY BOARD Chris Chesney, CARQUEST Jake Sorensen, McNeil’s Auto Care Seth Thorson, Eurotech Automotive

ASP’S WEBSITE IS THE GO-TO SITE FOR VEHICLE INFORMATION 24/7.

Turn to it any time you need the latest technical service bulletins, in-depth technical articles and the newest products. Our site also features news from suppliers and manufacturers to keep you up-to-date on what’s happening in the automotive industry.

Plus, go to our website to renew your subscription to ASP, read the digital version of each issue and sign up for a free subscription to our weekly eNewsletters!

Donny Seyfer, Seyfer Automotive Bill Fulton, ASE Master Tech

MARKETING STRATEGISTS Bob Marinex bmarinex@10missions.com (330) 899-2200, Ext. 2217 Marianne Dyal mdyal@10missions.com (706) 344-1388 Dan Thornton dthornton@10missions.com (734) 676-9135 Sean Thornton sthornton@10missions.com Kyle Shaw kshaw@10missions.com (651) 846-9490

VISIT

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AUTOSERVICEPROFESSIONAL.COM

TODAY

Martha Severson mseverson@10missions.com (651) 846-9452

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TECH TIPS

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From rusted dipsticks to snow plow woes

RUSTED DIPSTICK

PT CRUISER COOLANT LEAK

Do you ever deal with a truck used for snow plowing? Recently a 2014 Chevy 2500 Silverado HD came into the shop for a replacement of corroded power steering lines and an oil change. The truck was The dipstick broke into two pieces when trying used to plow snow and spread salt. As to remove it due to heavy corrosion in the tube. you might imagine, the routine exposure to salt really made a mess out of the underside. When we attempted to check the engine oil level, the dipstick broke in two, with a hefty length still stuck inside the tube. The tube was so badly rusted that large holes were evident, allowing salt/brine to enter the tube. Replacing the tube was a chore, requiring removal of the Once salt destroyed the dipstick tube, it entered right front wheel, inner fender liner and the tube and caused the dipstick to corrode and starter to gain access. break.

The exposed section of the tube easily broke off, with the end of the tube still stuck in the block. In order to remove the end of the tube, we tapered the tip and cut four lengthwise notches in the tip of a 5/16-18 stud and double-nutted the opposite end, which engaged into the stuck tube, serving as an “easy-out.”

Luckily, the broken section of the dipSalt brine exposure ate the dipstick tube away, stick was still trapped in the lower tube. If corrosion inside the tube, rusting the it had fallen through, removal of the oil pan allowing dipstick at a bend point. would have been necessary. Road salt really makes a mess. If the tube was made of quality stainless steel, this probably would not have happened. By the way, the front brake dust shields were also completely rotted away. As it turns out, there are no aftermarket front dust shields (only rear shields apA screw with cuts in the tip engaged into the pear to be available), so original equipment tube that was stuck in the engine manufacturer (OEM) front shields needed to remaining block, allowed removal of the stuck broken be ordered through our local Chevy dealer. piece of tube.

While the numbers of Chrysler PT Cruisers continue to decline as a result of mileage, rust and wear, they’re still popular with diehard owners. When one of these vehicles experiences a regular loss of engine coolant, naturally you’ll look for bad hoses and connections, but be aware that the black plastic thermostat housing is known for cracking and leaking. While a new thermostat neck housing is readily available and fairly inexpensive, in theory, you must remove the intake manifold to gain access to the upper radiator hose connection to the neck. However, complete removal of the intake manifold is not needed. By removing the series of 6mm bolts that secure the manifold facing the front of the car, you can lift the intake up just enough to remove the plastic thermostat housing and upper radiator hose by snaking the hose out toward the passenger side. The same goes for installation, snake the hose under the manifold to allow the connection of the hose to the radiator.

Be aware that some aftermarket thermostat gasket seals do not properly fit the plastic thermostat neck. To avoid any concern, pony up and spend a bit more for the Mopar thermostat that already includes the seal. In addition to fitting properly, the Mopar seal features a small indexing tab that registers the thermostat pintle in the proper clock position to avoid any guesswork.

After replacing the neck, be sure to open the bleed screw on the cast aluminum base (just below the thermostat housing) while the engine is idling in order to properly bleed the system.

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FEBRUARY 2022 | ASP

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TECH TIP S

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Whenever dealing with a threaded hole and plug or a fitting that is open to fluid (coolant, fuel, oil), sealing the connection is obviously important. If the connection features a tapered thread (such as national pipe tapered (NPT) thread), you must apply a thread sealant, such as Teflon pipe paste, per the manufacturer’s recommendation. If the threads are straight, do not apply a sealant. A straight thread fitting should feature a sealing crush washer or an O-ring. If the O-ring or crush washer is missing or damaged, replace it.

Note: If sealing a fuel connection and thread sealant is needed for tapered threads, always use thread sealant paste. Never use Teflon tape. If any strands of tape hang out and break loose, they can easily contaminate and restrict small fuel passages.

Plugs featuring straight threads require a crush washer or O-ring. Note the crush washer on this plug.

Fuel plugs/fittings that feature tapered thread should be sealed with a pipe/thread sealant paste. The use of Teflon tape runs the risk of errant tape slivers contaminating/plugging small fuel system passages.

National pipe tapered (NPT) thread plugs/fittings require a thread sealant, regardless of the application (fuel, coolant, oil). A Teflon tape may be applied to provide sealing, but the tape is not recommended for fuel applications.

Banjo bolts (used for either brake system or fuel system) feature straight threads, but no sealant should be applied to the threads, Rather, a crush washer is installed under the bolt head.

SNOW PLOW WOES

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If you’re working on a truck equipped with a snow plow and salt spreader, it’s no surprise that the underbelly is constantly exposed to road salt/brine and snow-wet conditions. If servicing the front brakes and/or hubs/wheel bearings, you likely will find severely rotted disc brake shields that may be falling apart and scraping on the brake discs, and hub mounting bolts that are so badly corroded that it’s difficult to fit a wrench on the heads. Also, power steering lines and brake lines may be badly corroded.

If you service private or commercial customers that plow snow, be prepared to order hub bolts and brake backing plates. Depending on the make, model and year, these parts may be difficult to find or might be on severe backorder. We recently serviced 2014 and 2017 Chevy Silverados with these issues and had to wait almost a week to obtain parts.

Even though both of these vehicles had been previously oil-sprayed, the severity of rust was unbelievable.

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COURTESY CHECKS

Performing a courtesy checklist and reviewing this with the customer provides them with a clear understanding of vehicle condition and alerts them to any needed repairs.

Courtesy Checks

Performing routine courtesy checks benefits the customer and the shop B Y M I K E M AV R I G I A N

EXAMPLE OF A 27-POINT INSPECTION Engine oil

Check the oil level and visually inspect the oil’s condition. Determine when the most recent oil change was performed, as it might be time for a change. Also, inspect the oil for frothy appearance or evidence of water/coolant in the oil. Always check for signs of engine oil leaks (valve covers, front crank seal, rear main seal, oil pan, oil filter, oil pan drain plug, any external oil lines/hoses if applicable).

Transmission fluid

W

HENEVER

A

CUSTOMER’S

vehicle enters the shop, for whatever reason (tire rotation, brake service, headlight bulb, noise complaint, etc.), an initial “courtesy check” can and should be offered. This might be a routine for some shops, or it might be an option offered to the customer. While a shop may charge a nominal fee for this, many shops offer this as a free service. Performing a courtesy check provides a benefit to both the customer and the shop. For the customer, it is a verification that the vehicle is in good condition or is in need of repairs. The repairs are pointed out to avoid issues down the road. For the shop, it’s a legitimate opportunity to increase the current or future parts and labor ticket.

I realize that many shops already perform multi-point inspections as a routine, but for those who don’t, consider creating an inspection checklist (pre-printed checklists may be available from various suppliers and trade associations). Here we’ve provided a 27-point checklist merely as an example.

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Check the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) level and inspect/smell for evidence of burning. On a manual transmission, check the lube level in case.

Power steering fluid

Check the fluid level and inspect the pump/reservoir/lines for leakage. Hard lines might be more susceptible in cold climates where road salt is used.

Battery

Check the condition of battery terminals for cleanliness. Check the battery cable connections for cleanliness, proper clamping, cable damage.

Check the battery voltage. Check the battery mounts for looseness.

Power seats, power door locks, power mirrors

Check the performance of each power system for proper operation.

Door latches

Check the operating conditions by opening/closing all doors. You may find infrequently used doors have sticking latches that result in difficulty opening or closing, requiring the application of penetrating oil/grease.

Rear hatch supports

If the vehicle is equipped with a rear hatch door, check the condition of the hydraulic hatch supports. It’s common for hatch struts to weaken and to lose hydraulic performance over time.

Brakes

Inspect friction material thickness.

Look for signs of glazing or uneven wear. Check brake rotors for cracks, thickness, damage. Check the calipers for operation, signs of leaks.

Check the brake hoses for cracking, deterioration, leaks. Check the brake lines for corrosion, leaks. Check the master cylinder fluid level and condition.

Parking brake

Check the parking/emergency brake system for proper operation.

Look for non-engagement or sticking/frozen system.

Clutch hydraulic

Check the operation of the clutch pedal, engagement, release, slipping.

Spark plugs/wires

Depending on the engine design, access to spark plugs might or might not be practical for purposes of inspection. If easily accessible, remove the spark plugs to check their condition. Inspect the spark plug wires for positive connections, brittleness/damage. Inspect the coil-on-plug boots/wells for signs of oil contamination.

Air and fuel filters

Check the condition of the engine air filter and cabin filters. If possible (depending on the system) check the fuel filter conditions.

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A tire inflation check is easy and quick. Even the most basic check should always include this.

Naturally, the engine oil level is a mandatory check.

Perform a quick battery check with a multimeter.

Check wiper blades for condition. Worn blades can provide an opportunity to upgrade to premium blades that benefit the customer.

Check brake fluid for both level and contamination.

Check belts for condition and adjustment.

It only takes a few seconds to check the brake light and other light functions while a helper operates lights from the driver seat.

A clogged air filter can create engine performance issues. This also gives you a chance to check the air box for contamination (insect nests, etc.)

If service involves raising the vehicle on a lift anyway, this is an opportunity to perform a quick check for tie rod ends, ball joints, brake lines, etc.

Exhaust system

Check the exhaust system for leaks, corrosion, rattling. Check the heat shields and connections.

Driveshaft/CV joints, boots

Inspect the driveshafts for physical damage. Inspect the U-joints for condition (lube, if applicable). Inspect the CV joints for unusual noise on turns and check CV joint boots for tears/damage.

Struts/shocks

Visually inspect for the fluid leakage.

Perform a bounce test for the condition. Check the strut/shock mount connections for looseness/missing hardware.

Tie rod ends, ball joints, control arms

Check tie rod ends for condition (looseness/play). Check the ball joints for signs of wear/play. Check the control arm bushings for signs of excess wear. Any signs of excessive wear that require replacement are legitimate reasons to urge immediate service, not to be postponed.

Axle lube

Depending on the system, check RWD/AWD axle lube level.

Tires/wheels

First, check the tire inflation pressures. Inspect the tires for tread wear. Check for uneven tread wear (indication of wheel alignment issues), and road damage. Also, check for proper tire size (look for mismatched sizes). Inspect the wheels for rim damage. Check the wheel fasteners for missing/loose fasteners.

Radiator/coolant hoses

Inspect all coolant hoses for signs of damage or deterioration (cracks, hardness, excess softness) and check the hose connections for leaks.

Coolant level

With the engine at room temperature, check the coolant level. Inspect the fluid for signs of contamination (engine oil in coolant, etc.)

Exterior lights

Check for the proper operation of headlights, turn signals, running lights, brake lights, backup lights.

Heater operation

Operate cabin heater system for proper operation regarding temperature, heater door operation, fan, etc.

Wiper blades

Inspect the wiper blades’ condition. Look for signs of windshield streaking. Check the wiper arms for proper operation.

Wiper fluid

Check the wiper fluid level. Operate the wiper fluid motor to check for proper operation (look for signs of plugged lines/squirt nozzles).

Horn

Check for the horn’s operation.

Restraint system

Check the seat belt system for operation, belt condition, latch engagement and release.

Glass

Check for damage (cracks, stone chips, scratches, etc.)

— By routinely performing a courtesy check, the customer is made aware of the vehicle’s condition. While some findings might be minor in nature or repairs that can be postponed based on the customer’s budget and time constraints, serious issues can prompt the need for immediate attention. Informing the customer of the condition of various systems (whether good or bad) is a service that benefits the customer and adds to the shop’s bottom line.

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D I A G N O S T I C S F O R PA R A S I T I C D R AW

Diagnostics For Parasitic Draw Tips for the best approach B Y J E F F TAY L O R

D

IAGNOSING A PARASITIC DRAW CAN

be a time-consuming challenge. The complaint is frequently that the engine won’t start after a couple of days of sitting because of a dead battery.

Often the battery has already been changed, but the problem remains the same: The engine won’t start after sitting for a few days and needs to be either charged or boosted.

Basics Before we start a parasitic draw diagnostic, we need to ensure that the vehicle’s battery is fully charged and in a state of good health and that the charging system is functioning correctly. We need to verify that the correct battery is installed and that it will meet or exceed the vehicle’s reserve capacity (RC).

We need to verify that the customer’s driving habits aren’t to blame. Frequently driving short trips or a vehicle that sits for days or even weeks before being started can easily cause a battery charge to be depleted.

We also need to verify that all the customer’s pluggedin accessories are removed from any power ports or audio/video ports and that there aren’t any devices plugged into the diagnostic link connector (DLC). A good visual inspection and a customer debrief are important.

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Once we have verified that nothing appears to have been left on or plugged in, the customer’s driving habits aren’t to blame, the charging system is fully functional, the correct battery is installed, and it has a proper state of charge, we can begin the process of checking and diagnosing a parasitic draw.

What is a parasitic draw?

A parasitic draw is when an electrical component continues to consume energy from the battery when it shouldn’t, even after it and the vehicle have been shut off. Some battery draws are acceptable and are required to retain memory, settings, security and other functions on the vehicle, but these are designed into the system and the proper battery will be able to maintain and deal with these.

What is an acceptable mA battery draw and how do we test for it?

Most manufacturers publish an acceptable mA (milliampere) draw range specification. General Motors (GM) suggests 40 mA as the maximum normal reading. Nissan considers 25 mA draw as normal. Dodge/ Ram considers 5 to 35 mA as typical. Honda has a range vehicle specific of 27 to 42 mA. If you can’t find a published specification, there is a

ASP | FEBRUARY 2022

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D I A G N O S T I C S F O R PA R A S I T I C D R AW

rule of thumb that we can use to determine a maximum mA value. It involves using the factory-recommended battery’s RC value and dividing it by four to come up with an mA battery draw value. If the RC of the factory battery was 140, then using the math: 140 divided by 4 equals 35.

Using this formula, the rule of thumb value for this battery would be a maximum 35 mA draw.

There are two common methods used to detect a parasitic draw: disconnection and voltage drop. The disconnection method involves the installation of a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) set to the mA scale installed in series between the disconnected negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable end. The excessive draw is then located by slowly removing one fuse at a time until the circuit that was causing the draw was identified. Using this method, though, can hide the issue because the interruption of power (battery disconnected) could cause the module, relay or device that is the cause of the excessive current draw to shut off, release or go to sleep. This could mask the issue until it acts up again.

The voltage drop parasitic draw detection method allows all the circuits, modules and communications networks to remain functional, powered and intact because the battery is not disconnected for this test.

A voltage drop is created by the internal resistance of a circuit when the current flows through it and the material that the fuse is made of causes some resistance and

We need to ensure that the battery is fully charged and in a good state of health. This battery needs to be replaced before any parasitic draw testing can be conducted.

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creates a small but detectable voltage drop when current flows through it. We can measure this voltage drop using a DVOM set to millivolt (mV) and use it to identify the circuit that might be the cause of our excessive current draw.

There are many different types, sizes and ratings of fuses being used on the modern vehicle, and there are charts that can be found online or in our information systems to display what the voltage drop across each type of fuse will translate to as an mA reading.

The modern-day parasitic draw testing procedure that I follow is a combination method. This procedure is a multi-phase blended approach that is effective at finding and identifying a parasitic draw on modern vehicles.

The Combination Method PHASE 1: START WITH PROPER VEHICLE PREPARATION AND THE USE OF AN INDUCTIVE AMP CLAMP. Step 1. Prepare the vehicle; perform the needed battery tests and verify that the issue is not caused by a customer driving pattern. Perform a full module scan and note any codes. Many European vehicles can set codes for parasitic draws. BMW offers a diagnostic “Energy Management test” that may identify the area of concern. Remove the scanner and verify there are no aftermarket accessories connected to the auxiliary power ports, audio/video ports or the DLC. Open your

Before we start any parasitic draw diagnostic, we need to ensure that the battery installed is correct and meets or exceeds manufacturer specifications. The reserve capacity (RC) is just as important as the cold crank amps capacity.

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This chart shows roughly how many days a 690 CCA battery @ 80% state of charge with an RC of 110 will last with a constant current draw until the battery reaches a 50% state of charge.

These values will change with battery temperature.

Taking a photo of the fuse box before doing any testing will help to ensure everything is back where it belongs and correctly oriented after testing.

Voltage drop testing across a fuse to detect a parasitic draw prevents the disconnecting of the battery and allows all the systems to stay fully powered and functional.

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information system and note the location of all the fuse blocks on the vehicle being tested.

Step 2. Road test the vehicle and activate as many accessories and devices as possible from the infotainment systems, HVAC, power windows, etc. The idea is to operate as many components as possible, to verify the proper operation and to observe if anything doesn’t function as designed.

Step 3. Return to the shop after the road test and turn the ignition off, open all the doors, hood, liftgate and manually close all the latches and ajar switches. Using the key fob (if equipped), lock and set the vehicle’s alarm. Ensure the vehicle’s transmitter key fob is taken away from the vehicle so that the security system won’t detect it and possibly wake up the systems, or not allow them to fully power down.

Step 4. Attach an inductive amp clamp capable of reading down to 1 mA to the negative battery cable. Set the amp clamp to the mA scale and note the reading.

Step 5. Allow the vehicle to go to sleep. Most vehicles will start to go to sleep after about 10 minutes, with periodic wake-up cycles as the vehicle powers down.

Falling fully asleep may take as long as two hours and will be different for each make and model. Typically, the vehicle will have less than a 75 mA draw during this falling asleep period.

Note: An engine-off natural vacuum evaporative test can occur during this time and cause a draw. Some vehicles may be equipped with an HVAC afterblow that may power the HVAC fan to blow for a specified length of time.

These conditions are normal.

Step 6. After everything has gone to sleep, the expected mA draw displayed by the amp clamp should be less than the max mA draw that the manufacturer specifies or if no specification is available, less than the RC calculated value.

• If the value is less than the vehicle specification mA draw or the RC calculated mA draw, the issue isn’t present at this time or the issue is intermittent. You may have to reinitiate the test again to see if you can duplicate the problem.

• If the value is above the vehicle specification mA draw or the RC calculated mA draw, then we will need to continue testing using Phase 2.

PHASE 2: VOLTAGE DROP TESTING Step 7. Using our DVOM, set to the mV scale, perform a

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This photo shows the fuse being voltage drop tested, but note the mV reading is 0.3, and the hood light is now on.

voltage drop test across each fuse, one at a time to determine which fuse has the parasitic draw or excessive current flow (you can ignore negative readings). Start by first testing all the smaller Micro2, Micro3, Low Profile, Mini, Regular and Maxi blade fuses. You can look up the mV to mA conversion charts online to aid in diagnosing how much current is flowing across each fuse, but a simple like vs. like comparison (10-amp mini vs. 10-amp mini, for example) should point out the larger current draw quickly. We will be leaving the larger J-Case type fuses (the ones with the plastic covers) for Phase 3.

Note. If the vehicle is equipped with a battery junction block that provides access to mega fuses that feed other fuse blocks, start a voltage drop testing here first. The mega fuse with the highest voltage drop indicates the fuse block to start our fuse-by-fuse voltage drop testing looking for the fuse that is supplying the power to the parasitic draw circuit.

Note. If the vehicle is using J-Case type fuses, I don’t recommend prying off the plastic covers to perform a voltage drop test. Move on to voltage drop testing all the smaller fuses in all the fuse boxes first, and if that doesn’t yield results, we will have to move on to Phase 3.

Note. When testing the Micro3 fuses that have three legs, the center pin is the common voltage supply, so remember to test both sides of these fuses.

Note. Some fuses may have an initial voltage drop that fades away, and some

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This photo shows the results of a voltage drop across a fuse. Note the mV reading is 0.0, and the hood light is out.

fuses may always have a nominal draw that is supplying power for memory retention. This is normal.

If during Step 7, we find a single fuse that has an excessive voltage drop, do not remove the fuse, as it might cause the draw to go away and it might not return. Locate the fuse in your wiring diagram to identify the component or components to which the fuse supplies power. If the fuse is supplying multiple devices, disconnect them one at a time until the draw is gone. If all the devices in the wiring diagram are disconnected and the draw remains, be suspicious of an aftermarket device being installed somewhere in the circuit. If individual fuse testing doesn’t identify a voltage drop, go to Phase 3.

This rear hatch module from a 2015 Cadillac SRX liftgate module was causing a 150 mA draw. The exterior of the module looks fine, but when it was opened, it showed the corrosion from water intrusion damaging the module.

PHASE 3. THE OLD METHOD LAST Step 8. If we haven’t located the parasitic draw yet by using the voltage drop test, we will use our previously installed inductive amp clamp in the final step. We will start removing all the J-Case fuse(s), circuit breaker(s) and relay(s), one at a time while monitoring the mA draw on the inductive amp clamp, to verify if it drops down to or below our vehicle specification mA draw or RC-calculated mA draw. Many of these J-Case fuses will supply high power to individual devices, for example, the anti-lock brake system (ABS) module. When the excessive draw is removed after a J-Case fuse or other device is removed, a careful review of the wiring schematic will show which fuse or device is supplying power. Disconnecting these device(s) one at a time should identify the probable cause of the excessive draw.

Note: Before removing anything from the fuse block under inspection, take a quick photo with a cell phone to ensure stuff gets plugged into the correct spot and correctly oriented to the original position.

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This chart is a segment of the available fuse voltage drop testing charts from GM service information. This chart shows how the 0.3 mV voltage drop across a blue 15 Amp mini fuse indicates a current flow of 66 mA. In this case this circuit was powering the hood light.

Step 9. Many times, the actual fuse block itself can be a module and have components, relays and processors that are integrated internally. If the previous steps have isolated the parasitic draw to one fuse block and all the other testing has failed to show or produce the device that is causing the parasitic draw, the final step is to remove/

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unplug the suspected fuse block. If the draw is now gone, the issue is likely in the fuse block itself.

Drawing a conclusion Typically, identifying a parasitic draw takes time, a detailed approach, and patience from the tech and the customer to be successfully diagnosed. There isn’t a magic bullet or special tool that will quickly and easily point a technician at the source of a parasitic draw, especially if the parasitic draw is being caused by a non-factory installed device. But this combination approach to testing should help isolate even these hidden aftermarket devices to a specific circuit and help in finding the source of the parasitic draw.

This dealer-installed aftermarket remote start was the cause of a parasitic draw on a 2017 Kia. The customer noted that the remote start had stopped working about the same time the battery started to go dead overnight. A thorough visual inspection and a good customer debrief are important in most diagnostics.

Jeff Taylor boasts a 30-plus-year career in the automotive industry with Eccles Auto Service in Dundas, Ontario, as a fully licensed professional lead technician. While continuing to be “on the bench” every day, Jeff is also heavily involved in government focus groups, serves as an accomplished technical writer, and he has competed in international diagnostic competitions as well as provided his expertise as an automotive technical instructor for a major aftermarket parts retailer.

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C V J O IN T T E C H

CV Joint Tech An overview of joint design and service tips

B Y M I K E M AV R I G I A N

T

HIS BRIEF ARTICLE IS INTENDED AS A

“primer,” regarding CV (constant velocity) driveline joints. A CV joint is a torque/drive mechanical coupling in which the rotational speed of the output shaft (inner joint) matches that of the input shaft (outer joint), regardless of the shaft angle. This allows torque output from the transaxle to the driven wheels to remain unchanged from the transaxle to the wheels even as the suspension (and the CV shaft) changes angles during up/down travel and during turns. CV joints don’t cause restrictions during angle changes, as compared to universal (U) joints.

What are the differences between CV and U joints?

A U-type joint is applicable when there is a very limited shaft angle variation. However, a U-type joint will cause the driven shaft to slightly change length and will create a speed (rotation rate) change between the input and output side of the joint when the shaft must change its angle by more than a couple of degrees. Given the angle movements required for both suspension travel and steering angle changes, a U-type joint will create a vibration as the two sides (input and output) begin to “argue” during shaft angle movement. This is why a CV (constant velocity) joint is required for front-wheel drive (FWD) and independent rear-wheel drive (RWD) systems.

A CV joint design permits freedom of movement without bind or differences in output/input, since the inboard CV joint features a “plunging” movement that allows the shaft to move in/out during suspension travel without restricting suspension travel.

OUTBOARD CV JOINTS Outboard (wheel side) CV joints are usually the “fixed” type, also often referred to as a Rzeppa joint. This type of axle joint features a bearing race with slightly arced and offset longitudinal grooves. A series of ball bearings runs along these grooves. The balls are “trapped” in a cage that keeps the balls aligned to their grooves.

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The offset groove/caged ball design allows the joint to articulate to follow suspension travel and steering angles. Depending on the specific manufacturer, a typical outboard CV joint will allow a maximum articulation angle of about 47 to 50 degrees (naturally, a higher maximum angle will allow a smaller turning circle).

Due to the greater operating angles and their greater exposure to road hazards such as rocks, dirt, moisture, etc., and greater potential for CV joint boot damage, outboard CV joints tend to wear sooner than inboard CV joints.

INBOARD CV JOINTS An inboard joint is designed to allow in/out or “plunging” movement in addition to articulating for suspension travel angles. This plunging movement allows the shaft assembly to slightly change its length during suspension travel, compensating for control arm up-down/angles during suspension travel, and to prevent restricting lower control arm movement. Several styles of inboard CV joints are in use. Tripod style CV joints use a three-legged design of three equally-spaced roller bearings (instead of balls) that glide along track grooves inside a “tulip” style housing. A DO (double offset) is also a plunging type joint but features a series of ball bearings.

Typical inboard CV joints provide a plunge movement of about 50mm and a maximum articulation angle of about 22 to 31 degrees (depending on make and model).

TIPS ON DIAGNOSING CV JOINT PROBLEMS NOISE DURING TURNS A clicking or popping noise is indicative of a worn or damaged outer CV joint. One way to confirm this is to drive the vehicle in reverse (in a circle). If the noise is

An example of a fixed outer CV joint. Note the toothed reluctor/ tone wheel for ABS applications. Courtesy of GKN

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more pronounced, this confirms the need to replace the joint. If you’re driving backward with the wheel cranked full right and the noise is louder, suspect the right outer joint. If driving backward with the steering wheel cranked full left, suspect the left outer joint. Be aware that these noises may also be caused by worn or damaged rack-and-pinion steering inner tie rod ends.

both inboard or outboard CV joints. Other potential causes can include worn/failed engine and/or transmission mounts or torque strap bushings, so be sure to rule these out before blaming the CV joints.

Note: Always consider the basics before deciding to replace the CV joint. If the vibration begins to occur at a specific vehicle speed, and increases at higher speeds, the

CLUNKING NOISE If you hear/feel a clunking noise when the transmission is placed into drive gear, or during acceleration or deceleration, this may point to a worn or damaged CV joint.

Keep in mind that the same type of noise/ feel can result from excessive backlash in the differential gears.

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Example of a CV “fixed” outboard joint (top) and CV inboard plunging joint (bottom).

If the vehicle features FWD, suspect an inner CV joint. If the vehicle features RWD with an independent rear suspension that features CV joints, suspect either the inner or outer joints. Naturally, the same condition may be caused by primary driveshaft CV or U joints, worn/damaged inner tie rods or other worn suspension parts. If you suspect inner CV joints on the drive axle (FWD or RWD), try driving the vehicle in reverse while accelerating and decelerating. If the problem becomes more noticeable, the cause is likely one or both inner joints.

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ACCELERATION VIBRATIONS If a vibration is felt during vehicle acceleration, this may indicate a worn or damaged inboard plunge joint. Other possible causes include excessive play in either or FEBRUARY 2022 | ASP

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problem is most likely not CV-joint related or CVjoint shaft imbalance. More likely causes include wheel imbalance, tire radial runout, bent wheel, etc.

GROWLING

AC outer CV joint. Note the six ball bearings encased in the cage. The balls, in conjunction with the radiused cage, allow pivoting movement in all radial angles. Courtesy of GKN

Inboard ball bearing plunge type CV joint. In addition to freedom of radial movement allowed by the ball bearing system, grooves in the housing allow axial (in/out) movement to permit the CV shaft to change effective length during suspension travel.

Courtesy of GKN

Inboard plunging disc style CV joint. This flange/disc style allows direct bolt-on to a differential housing on many RWD independent suspension systems. Courtesy of GKN

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Again, not all unusual noises are caused by bad CV joints. If the problem involves a constant growl or hum while driving, the most likely cause is worn/dry/damaged wheel bearings. Granted, a CV joint can cause a constant noise if the boot has been damaged and the joint has lost its lubrication. Anytime you find a damaged CV joint boot (tear, hole, loose clamp), definitely examine the joint. If lube has been spit out, it’s very likely that road contamination has entered the joint, which is cause for replacement.

On the subject of CV joint boots, this is the most common cause of CV joint problems and failures. Make a point to always inspect CV joint boot conditions. Note that even if a boot is not already torn, it may be subjected to high heat levels, in which case the boot material may become heat-hardened and brittle. When the boot reaches the point of being brittle, it’s only a matter of time before the boot cracks and splits. As already noted, whenever a boot is compromised, the joint will eventually fail. It’s only a matter of time until failure will occur.

If any doubt exists, or especially if the joint (with the bad boot) is making any abnormal noise, don’t even think about boot replacement. Instead, replace the joint. As we all know, it’s far quicker and easier to simply replace the entire CV shaft assembly as opposed to disassembly, rebuilding and reassembly.

Considering the labor time involved in performing a boot replacement, it makes sense that the customer should consider a replacement of the entire CV shaft assembly. Yes, this involves a higher product expense, but shaft assembly replacement will eliminate the time needed to remove/reinstall the joint as needed for boot replacement. Replacing the entire shaft assembly reduces the customer’s labor cost and eliminates concerns for a potentially compromised joint.

Inboard plunging tripod type CV joint. Instead of using six caged ball bearings, the tripod style features three equallyspaced radiused roller bearings that are free to move in/out during suspension travel.

Courtesy of GKN

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Whenever a CV-axle-equipped vehicle enters the shop for service, make a point to always inspect each CV joint boot for brittleness, cracks, tears, pinholes, etc. Boot inspection is a benefit to the customer. Catching boot/joint wear/damage early can save the customer from a costly towing bill, breakdown inconvenience, and most importantly, helping to avoid what could be a tragic accident as a result of joint failure and/or steering problem.

Tripod style inboard plunging joints feature three roller bearings (cutaway view seen here).

An alternative to replacing the joint (or joint/shaft assembly) is to remove the bad boot and replace it with a “split boot.” This involves cutting the old boot off, cleaning the shaft and inspecting/cleaning/greasing the joint as needed, and installing the two-piece split boot. However, it is critical to properly seal the boot halves together using the supplied adhesive and allowing adequate curing time (some split boots feature small screws that secure the halves together instead of requiring adhesive). Basically,

you should only consider using a split boot if time, budget (or both) are critical factors. A split type boot, regardless of how well it was designed, will not provide the durability of a one-piece boot. But, it’s a handy alternative, depending on the individual situation. As with various

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aftermarket quick-fixes, they may not be ideal, but split boots have their place.

CV SHAFT REMOVAL

The longer CV shaft may feature a rubber damper on the main shaft, between the inner and outer joints. The purpose of this dynamic damper is to absorb vibrational forces to reduce vibrational harmonics. If the original design featured a damper, a replacement shaft assembly should also feature this damper.

There’s no need to add a damper to a shaft that wasn’t designed with this feature.

Whenever servicing the CV shaft assembly (or disconnecting the hub for any reason), never reuse the old outboard shaft nut. Always install a new nut. Never strike the axle shaft with a hammer or other object in order to separate the outboard joint’s stub from the hub. If stuck, use only a specialized puller.

Applying impact force can easily damage the inboard and/or outboard joints, and can also damage the differential.

Before installing the outer joint stub to the hub (original or replacement joint), carefully inspect the shaft splines and threads for burrs and cleanliness. The splines and threads must be free of irregularities and contaminants. Also, be sure to apply a thin coat of high-temp grease to the splines.

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As required when servicing any vehicle system, if you’re not already familiar with the vehicle at hand, always refer to the appropriate service manual for CV shaft removal. Some inner CV shaft ends will pop out by simply applying leverage between the transaxle housing and a dimple/recess on the inner joint housing, while others are secured with a retaining clip (which may require removal of a transaxle cover plate for access). Never pull on the shaft in order to dislodge the inner joint spline stub axle from the transaxle. This can result in pulling the inner joint apart. Apply pulling force only at the inboard joint housing where it meets the transaxle. Also, once the outer CV joint has been disconnected from the hub assembly, be sure to support the shaft assembly prior to and during inner joint disconnection. Allowing the shaft to hang down can also result in pulling the inner joint apart.

While it may be tempting, especially if you’re in a hurry, never pound the end of the outer CV shaft’s stub with a hammer in order to dislodge it from the hub.

Even if you temporarily install the old nut to protect the stub splines, you can cause damage to the inner

Axle shaft splines, shaft journal and shaft seat must be clean and free of burrs. The need for this should be obvious but during a rush job it can be overlooked.

If the inboard joint’s shaft features a retaining clip, inspect for clip damage and for distortion. A damaged clip can make installation difficult and may prevent full engagement.

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Note that the CV joint’s axle shaft base features a radius fillet (chamfer). If you need to remove rust or other contaminants from this area, never use a file or other cutting device that can create deep scratches, nicks or other potential stress risers.

Prior to installation of the new joint assembly, it’s important to clean the inboard side of the hub, removing any dirt, road debris or rust scale from both the seat and the splined hole. This makes insertion of the outboard axle stub more precise and easier, and eases future removal.

joint and/or the outer joint, the differential gears and the wheel bearing. If the stub axle is stuck in the hub and won’t push out by hand, use a proper puller tool to separate the stub from the hub.

When it’s time to replace a bad CV joint, while you certainly can disassemble the shaft and rebuild or re-

place an individual CV joint, since today’s aftermarket offers ready-to-install complete CV axle assemblies, it just makes sense to replace the assembly rather than attempting to rebuild. You’re able to get the job done much faster (good news for the customer), freeing up shop space for increased vehicle service turnaround.

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O B D - II D I A G N O S T I C S

Global OBD-II Diagnostics

Massive amount of data available from the global side of the scan tool

B Y B I L L F U LT O N

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80% of the top 10 emission diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) can be solved by diagnosing the data from the global side of a scan tool. In addition, many other issues can be diagnosed using the 10 modes from the global side of a scan tool. I know of shops, mine included, when a customer comes in for a standard oil change we plug it into the diagnostic link connector (DLC) and utilize the global side of the scan tool to check for DTCs or pending DTCs. Over the years, there has been a lot of debate over brands of aftermarket scan tools as to which brand is best and which brand has the most coverage. In addition, there have been some credible arguments as to the value of the original equipment manufacturer (OEM)

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scan tools. I know that most of us technicians spend the bulk of our time on the enhanced side of an aftermarket scan tool. In this article, our objective is to create some awareness of the diagnostic value from the massive amount of diagnostic information available from the 10 modes from the global side of a scan tool. (See Fig. 1).

I call this side of the scan tool the plug-and-play side whereas no VIN is required. If your scan tool is behind on several updates, you can still access the global side of the scan tool on a 2021 model year vehicle.

Mode 1 Mode 1 gives us all the important powertrain data. All of this data is raw data meaning that no substituted values will be displayed. In the event of a sensor or circuit failure, the failed value will be displayed. On

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O B D - II D I A G N O S T I C S

Fig. 1 There are 10 modes available from the scan tool’s global side.

the enhanced side of a scan tool, you could be looking at a substituted sensor or circuit failure value. Take a look at Fig. 2 screen 1 from Mode 1. This data is from a 2012 Chevy Equinox. Notice that we are pointing out the commanded equivalent ratio. This data represents the corrected airfuel ratio the engine is presently under. Numbers below .9 mean the engine has been running too rich and the powertrain control module (PCM) is correcting.

Numbers above 1.10 mean the engine is running too lean and the PCM is correcting. Ideally, this value should be between .9 and 1.10. Lean codes are among the top 10 DTCs on mass airflow-equipped (MAF) vehicles.

Most technicians know that a faulty MAF sensor could be the cause. Other causes could be low fuel pressure, a vacuum leak, restricted injectors or E-85 fuel in a nonE-85 engine. Take a look at Fig. 3 from Mode 1. Notice

Fig. 2 This example, using a 2012 Chevy Equinox, points out the commanded equivalent ratio. This data represents the corrected air-fuel ratio the engine is presently under.

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Fig. 3 The mass airflow (MAF) sensor reading was captured at idle on a 3.0L engine. The grams per second at idle should be slightly higher than the liter size of the engine. This engine should pull a minimum of 150 grams per second at wide-open throttle (WOT) at 5,000 RPM. On engines, such as this 3.0L with variable valve timing, multiply the liter size of the engine times 50).

the MAF reading captured at idle on a 3.0L engine. The grams per second at idle should be slightly higher than the liter size of the engine. You can also monitor the MAF grams per second at wide-open throttle (WOT) and at 5,000 RPM. You would simply multiply the liter size of the engine times 40 on engines equipped with fixed valve timing. On engines such as this 3.0L with variable valve timing, multiply the liter size of the engine times 50. This engine should pull a minimum 150 grams per second at WOT and 5,000 RPM. This rule applies to altitudes below 1,000 feet above sea level. If

Fig. 4 This is an example of a gasoline direct injection (GDI) engine in Mode 1. The low-side fuel pressure value is 56.1 PSI. In addition, the O2 voltages are displayed as well as an 18% duty cycle command to the purge solenoid.

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the freeze-frame conditions show that the lean code was captured during idle and low load conditions, we may strongly suspect a false air or vacuum leak. Lean conditions across all engine RPMs and load conditions lead to suspected E-85 fuel in a non-flex-fuel vehicle.

Under road load conditions, as RPMs increase and fuel trim values increase, we would strongly suspect a faulty MAF sensor.

This is where Mode 2 freeze-frame data can be very helpful. Restricted converters and retarded valve timing issues also will have a major effect on the engine’s ability to breathe. Monitoring the MAP value under engine-loaded conditions would also be necessary.

Retarded valve timing issues and restricted converters will cause the fuel trim values to go into doubledigit negative values under loaded conditions. If you are working on an Asian or European vehicle, where the MAF values are not indicated in grams per second, then simply use the calculated load parameter. A minimum calculated load of 80% would be needed at WOT

Fig. 5 On the same gasoline direct injection (GDI) engine in Mode 1, the high-side fuel pressure is 587.2 PSI at idle/no load. At wideopen throttle (WOT), this value should exceed 2,000 PSI.

conditions and 5,000 RPM. All of these parameters are available in Mode 1. While we are looking at the data in Mode 1 Fig. 3 notice the barometric pressure (Baro) and manifold absolute pressure (MAP) readings. Baro

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O B D - II D I A G N O S T I C S

Fig. 6 This is a Mode 2 freeze-frame on a 2010 Toyota Prius with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0302. This engine is likely in a closed loop. The misfire occurred 40 seconds after startup and the temperature is only 77 degrees. An air-fuel ratio problem is likely causing the misfire.

minus the MAP values equals the engine vacuum. In this case, the manifold vacuum is 16.5 inches. In addition, notice the short-term and long-term fuel trim values combined together represent the total fuel trim values. In this example, the total fuel trim values are minus 3.9%. Total fuel trim values should be within plus or minus 10% of the number 1. One disadvantage of Mode 1 is that the data speed is much slower than that of the enhanced side of the scan tool. This does not minimize the importance of the reliable raw data

Fig. 7 This is Mode 6 information. Note, all of the possible once-per-trip monitor’s Mode 6 can be used to determine which component(s) failed to set the code.

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Fig. 8 Beginning in 2010 model years, Mode 6 also contains individual cylinder misfires from the last 10 drive cycles. This information is especially valuable on gasoline direct injection (GDI) engines that have a reputation for a cold-start misfire due to restricted or leaking injectors.

available from the global side of the scan tool in Mode 1.

Take a look at more Mode 1 data in Fig. 4. Notice on this gasoline direct injection (GDI) vehicle, the low side fuel pressure value is displayed at 56.1 PSI. In addition, the O2 voltages are displayed as well as an 18% duty cycle command to the purge solenoid. With this purge on time, we should see a vacuum in the evaporative emission control (EVAP) system by monitoring the EVAP pressure sensor, which is also available from the Mode 1 data. In Fig. 5, including Mode 1 data, we can see the high side fuel rail pressure on this GDI engine at 587.2 PSI captured during idle, no-load conditions.

At WOT condition, you should see this value will exceed 2,000 PSI. If you recall, from Fig.4 that the duty cycle to the purge solenoid was 18%, then we should be building a vacuum in the EVAP system. This is indicated in Fig. 5 with the EVAP pressure sensor indicating 100 kPa (Kilopascal). Another important parameter is the distance since the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been requested. This tells us how many miles the car owner has driven with the MIL on. This can be critical in the event of a misfire code where raw fuel can build up in the converter and light off and destroy the converter. Keep in mind that in cases of a misfire the PCM will suspend the catalyst monitor. After fixing the misfire, we would not initially clear the MIL. A short

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test drive will allow the PCM to run the catalyst monitor. We could then go to the Mode 6 menu and view the catalyst monitor test results to see if the converter survived the misfire. Most modern-day systems will disable the injector from a misfiring cylinder to prevent damage to the converter.

Mode 2 Mode 2 contains the freeze-frame data in the event of a MIL and a DTC. It is always advisable to spend some time here and analyze what the conditions were when the PCM set the code and requested the MIL (conditions such as temperature, engine load, vehicle speed, time since startup, throttle angle and engine RPM).

There are usually a lot of clues here that can help us in our diagnostics. Take a look at an example of a freezeframe from a P0302 DTC in Fig. 6 from a 2010 Toyota Prius. Are there any clues that would be helpful in diagnosis? Notice that the misfire occurred 40 seconds after startup with an engine load of 54%. The engine temperature was barely warm at 77 degrees with the engine RPM at 1,492. It is very likely the engine is in closed-loop condition. These would be the conditions we would most likely have to duplicate. Since we have this information we strongly suspected an air-fuel ratio problem causing the misfire. The number 2 coil easily fired an ST125 spark tester. Compression values from the number 2 cylinder were within a normal range.

With the injectors on the flow bench, we found three of the four injectors with excessive flow rates causing a rich condition. This resulted in the PCM to lean out all four injectors, causing a lean density misfire on the number 2 cylinder.

of the once per trip monitors will go back to incomplete.

This means that a specific long comprehensive drive cycle must be completed to reset all of the once-per-trip monitors to complete status and update the Mode 6 test results. Many technicians do not initially clear the code.

After the repair is made a test drive is conducted to allow the specific monitor related to the DTC to run. You can then analyze the specific monitor test results to verify a good fix.

Fig. 9 This is an example of Mode 6 B1 converter monitor test results. Values represent the switching ratio between the front and rear O2 sensors.

Mode 3 Mode 3 displays the current emission trouble codes. Remember the majority of the top 10 emission DTCs require two consecutive failures before the PCM requests the MIL.

Mode 4 Mode 4 clears all emission DTCs. When using this function, remember that the code or codes will be cleared along with the valuable freeze-frame data, which will also be lost. More importantly, the test results from the once per trip monitors we will cover in the Mode 6 area of this article will also be cleared and the status from all

Fig. 10 This is a Mode 6 test result after a faulty O2 sensor was replaced. This example of a General Motors (GM) vehicle displays values in milliseconds (not all manufacturers use millisecond values). The example here shows rich-to-lean and lean-to-rich switching that passes the test.

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This works for most of the top 10 emission trouble codes except for the EVAP monitor. In many cases, it takes a six-hour cold soak, which is part of the enable criteria that must be met be before the EVAP monitor runs. Technicians in emission test areas are known to leave the MIL on. In most cases with two to three good drive cycles with no repeat failures, the PCM will turn off the light and dump the code. The reason here is that the once-per-trip monitors will indicate complete rather than incomplete. If the vehicle owner needs to go into an emission test, if the once per trip monitors indicated incomplete, the car will fail the emission test. Keep in mind that some DTCs will cause the PCM to suspend some monitors.

For example, in cases of a misfire code, the PCM will suspend the catalyst monitor. After the misfire problem is corrected and the MIL is not cleared, a test drive can be done to allow the catalyst monitor to run to ensure the converter survived the misfire problem by viewing the Mode 6 test results from the catalyst monitor.

Mode 5 Mode 5 was originally designed to indicate the onceper-trip monitor’s test results from the O2 sensors and O2 heating circuits. However, most scan tools incorporate these O2 sensor test results into the Mode 6 section, which is what we will do in this article.

Mode 6 Mode 6 information includes the valuable test results from the last time a once-per-trip monitor ran. Take a look at all of the possible once per trip monitors in Fig. 7. No vehicles will have every one of these once-per-trip monitors as they will vary depending on the year, make and model. Mode 6 test results can be used to determine which component failed to set the code and also be used to confirm a good fix.

Early Ford systems, for example, have as many as six Mode 6 test results just from their early exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system, which covers all of the components of the EGR system. The information you will see here from Mode 6 data is phenomenal and very comprehensive. Many technicians will initially scan the test results briefly to simply note a passor-fail status of the once-per-trip monitors. Because of the massive amount of information available from

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Fig. 11 This is an O2 sensor heater monitor test after the O2 sensor was replaced. The initial pass showed 0 and the maximum value is 8. We now know that the B1 S1 sensor was online very quickly.

Mode 6, we will need to do a condensed coverage in this article in that we will cover a few of the many Mode 6 test results. Beginning in model-year 2010, Mode 6 also contains individual cylinder misfires from the last 10 drive cycles. See Fig. 8. This data has proven very valuable, especially on the GDI engines that have a reputation of a misfire during a cold startup from restricted injectors or leaking injectors.

The misfire usually goes away after a few seconds. I have found in these cases that the Mode 6 info usually points out the misfiring cylinder.

Some early onboard computer (OBD-II) systems did not disable the injector from the misfiring cylinder. On these systems, raw fuel will end up in the converter and light off, creating extreme converter temperatures, which crystallize the converter substrate. When the PCM detected the cylinder misfire, the converter monitor was suspended. After the misfire problem was corrected from a faulty injector, we simply left the MIL on and took the vehicle for a test drive, allowing the B1 converter once-per-trip monitor to run and to update. Notice the B1 converter monitor test results in Fig. 9, indicating a pass with good test results. The test results indicate a .969 while the minimum value test result indicates a .350 and the maximum value is 8.00. These values represent the switching ratio between the front and rear O2 sensors. This is how the PCM determines the O2 storage capacity and the use of the O2 molecules to

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Fig. 1 2 This is a Mode 6 test result from the variable valve timing (VVT) monitor from Bank 1 after a control solenoid was replaced and engine oil was flushed and changed. The “0” appears to indicate no camshaft variance.

burn off the HC and CO. You may have had a customer request that you check out a used car for them before they decide to buy it. Once the under car components are checked out and the underhood inspection is done, spend some time analyzing the Mode 6 test results.

Let’s say this vehicle is a relatively high mileage vehicle. Noting the Mode 6 test result from the onceper-trip catalyst monitor let’s assume the max test result is 7.034. This is very close to the maximum limit of 8.00. We then could inform the customer that the converter is losing its efficiency and the PCM is very close to setting a converter code. The catalyst monitor also will be suspended in the event of an upstream or downstream O2 failure. Let’s say the MIL is on with an upstream or downstream O2 code. We now have replaced the faulty O2 sensor with a known good brand.

We did not clear the MIL. A short startup is needed for the O2 heater monitor to run and the monitor for the O2 switching times. Take a look at the Mode 6 test

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Fig. 13 This Mode 6 purge monitor test result example involves an evaporative emission control system (EVAP) leak code. This shows that the purge is working, so the issue is likely a large leak.

results after a faulty O2 sensor was replaced in Fig. 10. The Mode 6 test results from the rich-to-lean and lean-to-rich switching test results show a pass. In addition, note the minimum and maximum values. Notice that the switching time test result for a rich-tolean indicated 22 milliseconds while the test results for a lean-to-rich transition indicate a good value of 13 milliseconds. Not all manufacturers display these values in milliseconds as in this General Motors (GM) system. The strategy here is that if the test results are very close to the minimum or maximum values on any of the once-per-trip monitors, it could mean a predictable failure. Let’s examine the O2 heater monitor test results after the O2 sensor was replaced. Notice the O2 sensor heater monitor test results in Fig. 11. Notice an initial pass with a test result of 0. Notice the max value of 8. We now know that the B1 S1 sensor was online very quickly.

Valve timing issues on engines equipped with variable valve timing codes can be caused by a number of issues such as sludge buildup in the oil, low oil pressure, a loose timing chain, a faulty cam actuator, or a faulty control solenoid or its circuit. A vehicle came in with a cam position code on Bank 1. The oil level was two quarts low, and sludge buildup was evident. The control solenoid was removed only to find more sludge buildup. An ohmmeter test indicated a good value of 10.9 ohms resistance. We informed the car owner we could try an oil change followed by an engine flush and

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replace the control solenoid. Please note that no guarantee was expressed to the car owner. The word try comes into place here.

There are times when we simply have to make a judgment call and that needs to be communicated to the car owner, much like a medical doctor writes a prescription to his patient and informs him to report back as to whether or not there were any improvements to his symptoms. Let’s look at the Mode 6 test results from the variable valve timing (VVT) monitor from Bank 1 after the control solenoid was replaced and the engine flush and oil change completed in Fig. 12. Initially notice that the monitor passed. The test results show a 0. The minimum value is 0, and the max value is 100. The scale being used is not fully understood, but the 0 appears to indicate no cam variance.

One of the most popular Mode 6 test results covers the EVAP system. A generic P0440 code is a general EVAP failure that could include a large leak, lack of purge or a vent solenoid stuck in the open position.

Let’s look at the purge monitor test results from Mode 6 in Fig. 13. Did you notice the initial pass? This tells us that purge is working and the issue would likely be a large leak. In addition, remember you have individual Mode 6 test results for a .020 small leak and a .090 large leak. Keep in mind, there are many other Mode 6 test results we didn’t have the space to cover in this article.

You can easily see these by spending some time on the global side of the scan tool.

When Ford initially came out with the Mode 6 test results back in the mid-90s, the scan tool indicated a TID (test identification) number in a hexadecimal format, and it did not specifically identify what monitor it was applying. Also, the term (CID) was used to mean “component ID.” In addition, we had to use some very complex conversion formulas to arrive at some understandable value. This is one of the reasons why a lot of technicians were confused with this data. For example, on early Ford systems, Mode 6 gave individual cylinder misfire data. You would need to multiply the test results times .000015 to obtain an individual cylinder misfire value on a percentage scale. With the advent of controller area network (CAN) compliant systems, the two terms now used are MID (monitor id) and TID (test id). Now each individual monitor is identified in English terms.

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(KOEO) conditions so that we can seal the EVAP system while smoke pressurizes the system. Most of us technicians opt for the enhanced side of the scan tool for this procedure.

Mode 9 Mode 9 displays the VIN and the present PCM calibration. In my opinion, it is much easier to read the VIN from the scan tool in Mode 9 rather than looking thru the windshield. This mode is where we go to find the last PCM calibration number before we go online to see if a later calibration is needed to correct a variety of possible issues. See Fig. 14.

Fig. 14 This Mode 9 displays the VIN and the present powertrain control modules (PCM) calibration. This is helpful to find the last PCM calibration number, before going online to see if a later calibration is needed.

Mode 7 Mode 7 contains the pending or pending codes. Most of the top 10 emission DTCs are two trio codes, meaning that the PCM must see two consecutive failures before lighting the MIL and setting a code.

A single failure will set a pending code along with freeze-frame data. Even when a car comes into your shop with an issue with no MIL, we should access this mode and look for a pending code. What could happen is once you have worked on the car and say, two days later, the pending code has finally matured and the PCM lights the MIL. We all know what customers think is that you worked on the vehicle two days ago and now they have a MIL. The customer’s normal approach to us is that we must have done something wrong. Have you been there before?

In addition, Mode 7 will display the status of the continuous monitors. Unlike the once-per-trip monitors, these monitors run continuously. The continuous monitors include the misfire monitor, the air-fuel ratio monitor and the comprehensive component monitor. The codes from these monitors are usually one-trip failure codes with a MIL.

Mode 8 Mode 8 is what I refer to as the worthless mode. It sometimes is called the output control monitor. On some vehicles and some scan tools, it will command the vent solenoid to close during key on, engine off

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MODE 10 Mode 10 contains the permanent DTCs. Codes displayed here are permanent DTCs that consistently fail on every key cycle. Some refer to these codes as “hard codes.” These codes are usually caused by a component failure or a circuit failure.

Many of us technicians will do a complete bus circuit sweep test to confirm whether or not any module on the network has reported a trouble code. This procedure is available from the enhanced side of the scan tool. If a module has reported a DTC, we should always make a note of it on the work order.

The objective of this article is to bring some awareness to the vast amount of information available from the global side of the scan tool. Good technicians are more than just code readers. Access all of the information from the global side of the scan tool in your journey down the diagnostic road. This industry is better because of your commitment.

Bill Fulton is the author of Mitchell 1’s Advanced Engine Performance Diagnostics and Advanced Engine Diagnostics manuals. He is also the author of several lab scope and drivability manuals such as Ford, Toyota, GM and Chrysler OBD-I and OBD-II systems, fuel system testing, and many other training manuals in addition to his own 101 Lab Scope Testing Tips. He is a certified Master Technician with more than 30 years of training and R&D experience. He was rated in the top three nationally on Motor Service magazine’s Top Technical Trainer Award and has instructed for Mitchell 1, Precision Tune, OTC, O’Reilly Auto Parts, BWD, JD Byrider, Snap-on Vetronix and Standard Ignition programs. You may have also seen Fulton in many Lightning Bolt Training videos and DVDs and read his articles in many auto service magazines.

He owns and operates Ohio Automotive Technology, which is an automotive repair and research development center and where the images for this article were produced.

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TeChnICal ServICe

bulleTInS

CHEVROLET

TRANSMISSION RESET Some owners of 2012-2013 Chevy Avalanche or 2012-2014 Silverado vehicles may experience a harsh (detent) 6-4 downshift. The customer may note that during a heavy throttle application, a tie-up feeling followed after the throttle has been released, by a harsh 6-4 downshift. Perform the reset transmission adapts in the service manual. Road test to see if the condition has been corrected. If not, this bulletin does not apply.

C166B on the left front strut assembly and C1669 on the right front strut assembly.

Remove the tape and convolute around the take-out to both connectors and the main wiring harness, approximately two inches in each direction from the take-out.

Inspect for wire damage to the main harness for any broken or exposed copper under the wire insulation. Isolate any chafed/corroded wiring and replace the connector (main harness 14290 side only) C166B and C1669 with a new pigtail connector. Wrap the main harness wiring two inches in both directions from the take-out and wrap the entire wiring of the new pigtail connectors with Coroplast electrical tape or the equivalent (normal electrical tape does not have the anti-abrasion properties required to protect the wiring).

Replace the original convolute and cover with standard electrical tape. For MKT, make sure the connector take-out is routed behind the main wiring harness.

Reinstall the front wheels. Clear any DTCs.

Information courtesy of Mitchell 1

washers) are required for any repair that involves half shaft service. Three retainer assemblies are required for each half shaft.

Each retainer requires two bolts and two washers to make a retainer assembly. Where applicable, each axle assembly uses three retainer assemblies per side. Replacement of all axle bolts is required during the repair.

If a half shaft has been separated from the differential, remove and discard only the half shaft bolts. If required, clean and re-use the washers. Replace the shorter bolts (50mm shank length) with new longer bolts (57.5mm) and washers. Install the lock washers onto the bolts. Install the bolt and washer assembly into the retainer. Torque to specification. Bolts and washers are available as the part number (P/N) WPC#816.

before installing.

FORD

IMBALANCE LINCOLN

WIRING ISSUE Some 2013-2015 Lincoln MKT and MKS vehicles built on or before May 4, 2015, may exhibit an adaptive drive malfunction message in the instrument cluster with possible diagnostic trouble code (DTC) C110D and/or C110C. Raise the vehicle and remove both front wheels. Disconnect the connector

CADILLAC

REVISED PARTS This bulletin applies to 2016-2017 Cadillac ATS-V and 2015-2017 CTS-V vehicles. If a repair is done requiring the half shaft bolts to be removed, be aware that revised bolts are now available. New longer bolts (and lock

Some 2012-2014 Ford Mustang vehicles equipped with a 5.0L engine and automatic transmission may exhibit a warning light with DTC P219A (fuel-ratio imbalance for bank with No. 1 cylinder) and/or P219B (fuel-ratio imbalance for bank that does not include No. 1 cylinder) stored in the powertrain control modules (PCM) memory.

If one or both DTCs are present, reprogram the PCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 90.05 or higher.

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TECHNIC A L SERVICE BULLE TINS

CHRYSLER

BAD VIBES This bulletin applies to 2014-2015 Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan/Ram C/V Tradesman vehicles built on or after June 1, 2014, and on or before Aug. 1, 2014, equipped with anti-lock four-wheel disc brakes or antilock four-wheel HD disc brakes.

The customer may describe a shake and/or vibration in the steering wheel and/ or seat while driving at highway speeds without applying the brakes. The vibration may be caused by out-of-balance front brake rotors.

Remove the front wheels and inspect the Julian date engraved on the front rotor hub wheel mounting surface. If the Julian date 152_4 through 213_4 is found, obtain new rotors and verify that the Julian date is not within the original rotor date range. New rotors are available as P/N 04779712AA. Again, check the Julian date before installing.

system (ABS) and/or active traction control (TRAC) warning lights are on and/or a check vehicle stability control (VSC) message displays. Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) C1391, C1252 and C1253 may be stored. This condition may be caused by a small internal brake fluid leak inside the brake booster assembly with the master cylinder.

Are the brake, ABS and/or TRAC warning lights on and/or does a check VSC message appear on the display? If yes, continue to Step 2.

Using Techstream, check and record any DTCs. If the afore-mentioned codes are set, continue to Step 3.

Remove the brake booster assembly with the master cylinder.

Remove the brake booster pump assembly.

Install a new brake booster assembly with the master cylinder.

Install a new brake booster pump assembly.

Test drive to confirm the repair.

NISSAN

EXHAUST HANGER

AUDI

FUEL LEVEL

TOYOTA

BRAKE ISSUE Some 2011-2015 Toyota Prius and 2012-2015 Prius Plug-in Hybrid vehicles may exhibit a condition where the brake, anti-lock brake

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the vehicle’s ECM software part number/version prior to the update. If the software has already been updated, replace the respective fuel sensor only.

Update the ECM, J623 (address word 0001) using the support vector machines (SVM) action code 01A203 (old and new software P/N 4H2907551A; old version 0001/0003/0004; new version 0008; SVM code input 01A203).

After the SVM update, cycle the ignition.

Start the engine. If the engine runs rough and then surges, cycle the ignition once again.

This bulletin applies to 2015-2017 Audi A8 vehicles equipped with a 3.0L TFSI engine. The warning light might be accompanied by diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P046100 (fuel level sensor circuit range/performance). This DTC can be caused by miscalculations within the engine control module (ECM) software when the vehicle is being fueled with gasoline when the ignition is on. New ECM software has been implemented to correct this condition. Check

This bulletin applies to 2013-2015 Nissan Altima sedan vehicles equipped with a QR25DE four-cylinder engine. A “boom” or drone sensation may be heard in the cabin area and/or vibration might be felt in the floor and/or steering wheel when driving and the engine is at about 1,800 RPM. Check the gap between the rubber and metal portions of the front tube exhaust hanger. If less than 1mm of gap is found, add shims (flat washers) between the front suspension cross member and the front exhaust tube hanger. The maximum shim thickness should be 4.6mm (0.18 inch).

Visit autoserviceprofessional.com/TSB for additional service bulletins.

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prOduCTs

ThinkCar debuts Platinum S20 diagnostic tool •••

Mitchell teams with asTech on diagnostic solution ••• Mitchell International Inc. and asTech, a Repairify Global Holdings Inc. company, debuted the MD-OE22, a new diagnostic solution that combines asTech’s original equipment manufacturer (OEM) scanning device and remote services with Mitchell’s cloud-based ecosystem and collision repair software.

Using the MD-OE22, Mitchell says technicians can perform proprietary OEM scanning and programming with asTechpowered diagnostic tools while accessing scan reports, invoices and a full suite of repair management technologies from within the Mitchell platform.

According to the companies, the integration of the diagnostic and cloud workflows is designed to improve customer experience and efficiency by centralizing document management and distribution on a single platform.

Mitchell International Inc. mitchell.com

Pico Technology Ltd. announces the release of its automotive oscilloscope software, PicoScope 7.

The company says PicoScope 7 represents a major step forward in design and usability, supporting touchscreen devices, multiple operating systems, intelligent probe connection/ configuration, additional displays, full-screen waveforms and multiple views.

According to Pico Technology, its guided tests and waveform library support features are expanded and enhanced.

Pico Technology says the new software is ready to help your shop take full advantage of advanced diagnostics faster, easier and more efficiently.

Thinkcar Tech put on display its diagnostic tool, the Platinum S20, at last year's AAPEX Show in Las Vegas.

ThinkCar says The Platinum S20 is packed full of advanced technology and superior hardware.

The S20 has a 13.3 inch LED touch screen and 800 nits brightness, as well as a rubberized tested outer housing to protect it. The industrial design is also equipped with an upgraded Wi-Fi antenna for increased connection speeds.

The tool comes with one year of free passenger software and optional HD software.

Platinum S20 supports full diagnostics, for both passenger and heavy-duty vehicles. The functions include reading and clearing fault codes, live data stream, actuation test, special functions and 35 maintenance reset functions, according to ThinkCar.

Pico Technology Ltd. picoauto.com

ThinkCar Tech thinkarus.com

Pico Technology debuts new diagnostic software •••

New and innovative equipment for your tool chest and shop

CRP offers Rein Automotive power steering reservoirs ••• CRP Automotive Industries Inc. offers Rein Automotive power steering reservoirs for popular Mercedes-Benz applications.

CRP says these original equipment-quality reservoirs are made from virgin plastic and are manufactured to match OE material specifications. The use of new plastic prevents the reservoirs from cracking and wearing due to heat cycling and avoids fluid loss, CRP added.

Rein Automotive power steering reservoirs are built to provide the same fit as the original part, which helps save technicians time and hassles, the company says. To further simplify the job, the reservoirs ship with the OEM retaining clip required for installation.

They are manufactured to strict engineering standards and specifications for materials and tolerances.

CRP Automotive Industries Inc. crpautomotive.com FEBRUARY 2022 | ASP

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