The Artisanal Side of Nassau

By Mariah Laine Moyle

When someone mentions The Bahamas, images of palm tree-fringed white sandy beaches and iridescent turquoise water will likely arise. Perhaps then, your thoughts drift towards typical island fare such as greasy conch fritters and other tasty but calorie-laden dishes, paired with a light island lager. Upon arrival to historic Downtown Nassau, I was pleasantly surprised that along with traditional cuisine, I also found some of the Caribbean region’s top dining tucked within centuries-old buildings, with craft beer aficionados and oenophiles in mind.

A tour around Downtown Nassau leads me into Graycliff’s colourful Caribbean village on West Hill Street. While throngs of tourists navigated themselves to the beach, I duck into the cool reprieve of Bahama Barrels, The Bahamas’ first winery. Newly opened in late 2017, Bahama Barrels produces a wide range of varietals from Argentina and Italy. Their tasting room offers a chance to sample wines made in The Bahamas or create your own wine in their blending class. Over a taste of Refosco, a grape native to the Friuli region of Italy, second-generation owners and siblings Paolo and Roberta Garzaroli share stories about the evolution from a 1740’s pirate estate to the Graycliff of today.

The first endeavour when their father purchased the property in 1973 was Graycliff Restaurant, which serves an elegant blend of French and Italian dishes, sprinkled with Caribbean flair. Their wine cellar, one of the largest private collections in the world, houses more than 275,000 bottles, including one of the world’s oldest wines, a 1727 Rudesheimer Apostelwein. If you’d like to sample it, Paolo says a bottle will cost a mere $200,000; pair it with Bahamian lobster tail perfumed with a light saffron cream sauce, or a flaky lionfish filet – all served as part of Graycliff’s dedication to preserving Bahamian reefs from this invasive, yet tasty, fish.

After my wine tasting, I spend my afternoon pursuing Graycliff’s Chocolate and Cigar Factories, and then head up the road to John Watling’s Distillery at the historic Buena Vista Estate. The estate dates back to 1789, and upon entering, the original hardwood floors welcome me as I start to drink in the musky scents of oak wafting through more than 1,000 aging barrels of artisan rum. A tour leads me through the traditional distilling process, utilizing handcut, pressed sugarcane.

Later, I make my way to the bustling cruise-ship wharf and Pirate Republic Brewing Company, introduced as The Bahamas’ first craft brewery when they opened their doors in 2014. Pirate Republic produces 100 per cent of their flagship canned and rotating draft beers on-island, sporting enduring pirate names such as Blackbeer’d Stout and Long John Pilsner. At The Galley, I sample gastropub eats that complement their craft brew. As the day ends, I roll myself back to my residence, but I know there is still more to discover. I’ll just have to find a little more room in my belly first.