HUB Style - Issue #04-2023

Imagine a man, whose presence exudes confidence and timeless elegance.

Imagine a man, whose presence exudes confidence and timeless elegance.

He strolls through the rugged landscape of the world, embracing the natural wonders that surround him, as he seeks the awe-inspiring beauty that touches the depths of his soul.

He strolls through the rugged landscape of the world, embracing the natural wonders that surround him, as he seeks the awe-inspiring beauty that touches the depths of his soul.

And here, against the backdrop of an enchanting Nature, emerges a testament to his unwavering quest for excellence - the Outerwear Collection by Montecore.

And here, against the backdrop of an enchanting Nature, emerges a testament to his unwavering quest for excellence - the Outerwear Collection by Montecore.

Each garment is meticulously crafted to be the steadfast companion of this life explorer, harmonizing style and function in a symphony of unparalleled grace.

Each garment is meticulously crafted to be the steadfast companion of this life explorer, harmonizing style and function in a symphony of unparalleled grace.

From the cascading waterfalls to the misty highlands, from the tranquil lakes to the windswept cliffs, the outerwear of Montecore adapts effortlessly to any environment. With unrivaled durability and timeless style, it is a testament to the notion that you can journey far and wide without compromising on sophistication.

From the cascading waterfalls to the misty highlands, from the tranquil lakes to the windswept cliffs, the outerwear of Montecore adapts effortlessly to any environment. With unrivaled durability and timeless style, it is a testament to the notion that you can journey far and wide without compromising on sophistication.

Discover the joy of sartorial liberation and explore the realm of possibilities beyond the horizon, for true elegance knows no boundaries.

Discover the joy of sartorial liberation and explore the realm of possibilities beyond the horizon, for true elegance knows no boundaries.

montecore.it

montecore.it

ATTRACTION AND SHARING

The more attentive among you may have noticed that in the last few weeks our group has changed its name to MagNet. It is only right and proper to use this editorial to explain why. Soon said: for some time now the name Sport Press, a name we were obviously very fond of, had become too limited for us. We were originally born 20 years ago as a publishing group specializing in sports publishing, so the name was perfectly fitting. But over the years we have decided to expand our operations into new sectors: in addition to action sports, outdoor, ski winter sports, biking, running, and all sports in general, we entered into new sectors, like the world of electric mobility, active tourism, and of course fashion, for which we set up from the beginning a dedicated division. Today our company counts nine vertical, specialized magazines, among which HUB Style undoubtedly represents one of the most important, authoritative and recognized brands. We think this is also confirmed by this fourth issue of the year, which as usual is largely dedicated to all the latest news in men’s fashion and present in a special edition at Pitti Uomo, as well as during the other major international events (in digital version fully in English).

Besides, the group has always been active in the events sector. First with strategic partnerships and shared projects, and then with a fully owned and in-house division, which over the years has conceived and consolidated highly successful formats. Most recently the Winter Business Days, launched at the beginning of 2023 in Ponte di Legno - Tonale. And then the Emoving Days, arrived this year at their third edition (end of March in Milan), that have already become a reference point for what concerns new forms of mobility. An event attended by a growing number of visitors and operators, with a mix of elements that make it attractive and modern: presentations, meetings, workshops, product tests, experiences.

That same format has ensured over the years the exponential growth of the Outdoor & Running Business Days: now in their ninth edition, they are eagerly awaited by the entire community of outdoor and running world (but with increasing influences from the lifestyle sector as well). And they are about to break new records in terms of participation, with more than 3,000 operators expected between July 9-10 in the wonderful setting of Riva del Garda, including over 1,000 retailers representing more than 500 brands, 130 exhibitors and over 250 brands represented. In 2023 was created a third division of the group, called “Talent.” Active in consulting and training, as well as in the valorization and search of professional figures. An area about which we will tell you more and which will also find space in our media.

MagNet Media, MagNet Events, MagNet Talent: three strategic and complementary areas, with which our group presents itself with renewed energy and vision. Under the banner of innovation and transversality, but without forgetting our “journalistic” origins. The meaning of the name is soon explained: “Mag” recalls the concept of magazine, either printed or digital (two worlds that are increasingly hybridizing and complementing each other). “Net” evokes networks and connections, created and facilitated every day by our activities. Together they make up the word MagNet, which literally means “magnet” in English: the starting point and goal that drives all our work on a daily basis is precisely to attract people, stories, ideas, opportunities, talents and projects. And then, of course, to share them with all of you, in a continuous and mutual enrichment.

BENEDETTO SIRONI

follow us on @hubstylemag @hubstylemagazine

Editore: MagNet S.r.l. SB Direttore responsabile: ANGELO FRIGERIO Direttore editoriale BENEDETTO SIRONI

Responsabile progetto: CRISTIANO ZANNI Editors: VALERIA ONETO, SARA FUMAGALLO, MARIA PINA CIUFFREDA, ALESSANDRO MARRA, NICOLA SANNITI

Art Director: RICCARDO RECCAGNI Contributors: MARCO RIZZI, ANGELO RUGGERI

Redazioni: Via Tertulliano 68/70 - 20137 Milano -Tel: 02.87245180

Corso della Resistenza, 23 20821 Meda (MB) - redazione@hubstyle.it - www.hubstyle.it Stampa Alphaprint - Busto Arsizio (VA) - Una copia 1,00 euro

Anno 07 - N.04 / 2023 Periodico bimestrale - Registrazione al Trib di Milano n° 178 del 9 giugno 2017 - Iscrizione al ROC n. 16155 del 23 Novembre 2007

L’editore garantisce la massima riservatezza dei dati personali in suo possesso. Tali dati saranno utilizzati per la gestione degli abbonamenti e per l’invio di informazioni commerciali. In base all’Art. 13 della Legge n° 196/2003, i dati potranno essere rettificati o cancellati in qualsiasi momento scrivendo a: MagNet S.r.l. SB Responsabile dati: Benedetto Sironi - Corso della Resistenza, 23 - 20821 Meda (MB) Chiuso in redazione il 6 giugno 2023

16-18 PIQUADRO: THINK RESPONSIBLE

28-30 SARTORIALITÀ CONTEMPORANEA

32-34 TODAY’S MENSWEAR

70-74 SNEAKER SECTION

THE NORTH FACE’S URBAN EXPLORATION

The North Face UE is a project born from the collaboration between Hans Chyi, Andrea Jiapei Li and the APAC design team of the outdoor brand. Bringing a fresh perspective to outdoor apparel, the new range combines advanced innovative fabrics, technical construction and minimalist design. The Cropped City Gilet boasting a durable waterrepellent finish and the WindWall women’s skirt with chalk bag pockets highlight the versatility of the product in all conditions. Total looks for hikers who want to venture towards new ‘urban jungles’.

SEBOY’S: CLASSICAL MEETS GLAM ROCK

For Spring/Summer 2023, Seboy’s announced the collaboration with the Italian-Costa Rican IT-girl Natalia Bonifacci. The Italian spirit and style of the brand are infused with the glam rock taste of the model who wears the iconic shoes, re-interpreting them with a personal twist. The moccasin is enriched with attractive shades such as burgundy and emerald green, or the strong red of the Texan boot. The common thread of the whole capsule is the powder pink inner lining, created exclusively for the ‘Natalia Selection’.

GABRIELLA GIOVANARDI’S INNOVATIVE, ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE PROJECT

Candiani Denim has recently launched the Coreva Design capsule collection in collaboration with Orange Fiber, an Italian company that produces patented sustainable textile materials, and Progetto Quid, a tailoring workshop that helps people in need.

Coreva Design is an exlusive technology that uses the elastic properties of a plant-based material derived from natural rubber to make denim that can degrade in a much shorter time. The collection blending ethical and innovative principles is designed by model Gabriela Giovanardi.

PAOLONI CELEBRATES AN IMPORTANT ANNIVERSARY

Forty years and a celebration that started from the sea and the beaches of Conero, in the Marche region. In 1983 began the adventure of Manifattura Paoloni. An important anniversary, talking of “made with care and know-how’. With an image that represents the Contemporary Heritage of the brand. A SS 23 summer collection of contemporary essential garments inspired by the icons of men’s tailoring. With a versatile and timeless look, reworked on modern functionality, reflecting evolving lifestyles. The brand is unmistakably Italian in its passionate dedication to the craft of manufacturing high quality clothes, but its vision of menswear style is contemporary and cosmopolitan.

N°21 AND WOLFORD COLLAB IS A GAME OF SYNERGIES

Wolford has presented its latest collab collection with designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua and his brand N°21, blending Wolford’s signature quality with N°21 contemporary aestethic. The exclusive capsule collection will bring together the two brands’ dedication to craftsmanship and innovation and feature items embellished with lace motifs or contrasting asymmetrical cuts in certified 100% biodegradable materials, each enhancing the silhouette. Skirts and jumpsuits in soft and stretchy vegan leather with shaping functionalities complete the offer.

TOMMY HILFIGER POP STYLE PAYS HOMAGE TO THE FACTORY GENIUS

To pay homage to American Pop Art legend Andy Warhol, in Autumn 2022 Tommy Hilfiger launched a creative platform called Tommy Factory, inspired by Warhol’s famed New York studio. Now the collab collection pays homage to Montauk, the artist’s famous seaside retreat. The 28-pieces capsule collection embraces a nautical theme with inspired hues and textures. Two of the must-have items for men are a sweather and swim shorts with the typical pop lobster print. For women a midi skirt, a shirt and a swimsuit with sunset print to remember the summer season.

LUXURY GETS COULOURED FOR ADIDAS SNEAKERS BY PHARREL WILLIAMS

The iconic collaboration between Adidas and Pharrel Williams comes back with Humanrace Samba “Colors by Pharrel”, a sneakers collection born from the desire to celebrate craftmanship and love for luxury and colours. The collection favors a monchromatic color scheme including the exclusive Humanrace green. A unique interpretation of the Samba model enhanced with premium leather upper construction and leather lining from ECCO Leather, a world leader in innovative and premium leather, whose water-saving technology saves 20 liters of water per hide. The extended flap is a nod to the brand’s unparalleled history in the soccer world.

ARENA DEBUTS IN LIFESTYLE WITH THE WOOLMARK COMPANY

At Pitti Uomo 104, Arena will debut in the lifestyle segment with The Woolmark Company. To celebrate half a century in business, the brand wants to enter the world of fashion and not only of sports and performance wear. The beachwear collection SS 24 ranges from swimwear to outerwear, from sweatshirts to T-shirts, Bermuda shorts, trousers and mini-dresses. The iconic logo is embroidered by the three diamonds or printed on the garments, ensuring at the same time UV protection. In short, ideal for relaxing under the beach umbrella.

THE UNPREDICTABLE BECOMES PREDICTABLE WITH THE K-WAY CAPSULE

“Festival kit” is the result of the new collaboration between Universal Works and K-Way. The collection features two jackets and a bag, each available in Dark Blue and an earthy shade of Sand.  Every item in the collection is constructed from a recycled version of K-Way’s house fabric, to create a product not only performing and with a high quality, but also sustainable. Heat-taped seams, adjustable hem, and fully packable: those are the main features that make these jackets useful in every situation. And then there’s the Festival Bag, which sums up the spirit of the collection: ultra-reliable, useful and spacious.

A NEW VALSPORT SPECIAL COLLECTION

Ollie is the new mini capsule collection by Valsport. Two genderless shoe models, which combine tradition and craftsmanship. Designed for people that do not want to give up the timeless coolness of classic white sneakers. Made in natural rubber vulcanized at 140°C with artisanal “press”, the vegetal sole of these shoes hides all the ancient craftmanship of Valsport artisans.

TRADITION MEETS URBANSTYLE

Italian denim pioneer Roy Roger’s announces a collaboration with Dave’s New York, an American multibrand store specialized in workwear. Called the “vintage of the future”, the capsule is consisting of 25 iconic items that tell the natural affinity between the two partners, combining tradition and streetwear. Work trousers, denim jackets or in short denim jacquard version; completing the offer are a series of T-shirts with vintage prints, from Roy Roger’s and Dave’s original 1960s collections.

LUXURY INVADES URBAN SUBCULTURES

The sportswear brand Best Company has teamed up for the first time with Patta, a famous Dutch brand founded in 2004. This partnership with a strong cultural impact represents a forefront in elevating streetwear to luxury, with a metropolitan aesthetic and references celebrating the beauty of nature, leaving a mark in the global subculture. The T-shirts display vivid floral embroidery that celebrate the beauty of nature such as the “Busi Busi” Crewneck, the “Faya Faya Lobi” and the “Tawa Tawa” hoodie with a vibrant design with birds in their natural habitat.

ETRO OPENS A NEW BOUTIQUE IN RIYAD, SAUDI ARABIA

Etro announces the opening of a new boutique at Kingdom Center in Riyad, with a standalone space of 200 square meter. In partnership with the Etoil Group, the brand strengthens its presence in the Middle East region. Elegant, essential, with lightcoloured materials, the new location will host Etro women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections, alongside with small leather goods, fragrances and accessory collections.

TESSABIT CELEBRATES

THE 70 TH ANNIVERSARY WITH A NEW MENSWEAR BOUTIQUE

A history long 70 years which began on the shores of Como Lake. Tessabit is a highend boutique founded in 1953 by the Molteni family, which thanks to its original and refined selection of high quality clothing and accessories from around the globe and a continuous stylistic research has been at the cutting edge of luxury fashion since its inception. To celebrate 70 years of activity Tessabit has inaugurated a new flagship store in a historic building in the heart of the city of Como. The space, designed by Cardinali&Gazzabin architecture studio, is entirely dedicated to men’s fashion. The interiors are characterized by soft lines in perfect harmony with the imposing and elegant historic mansion. A harmonious metaphor of the long journey of the Molteni family.

MAISON VALENTINO UNVEILS

THE NEW STORE IN PARIS

Etro announces the opening of a new boutique at Kingdom Center in Riyad, with a standalone space of 200 square meter. In partnership with the Etoil Group, the brand strengthens its presence in the Middle East region. Elegant, essential, with light-coloured materials, the new location will host Etro women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections, alongside with small leather goods, fragrances and accessory collections.

JW ANDERSON OPENS FIRST FLAGSHIP STORE IN MILAN

JW Anderson opens its second solo store, and the first retail location in Italy. The brand continues to grow its relationship with the Italian market following its presence on local fashion week schedules since June 2022 with the launch of the menswear collection. Set in the heart of Milan’s Quadrilatero neighbourhood, at via Sant’Andrea 16, the 53-square-meter store is spread across a single floor and two open-plan rooms, with a floor-to-ceiling window on the street. The space was designed by 6a Architects, who also designed JW Anderson’s London boutique.

VILEBREQUIN OPENS PRIVATE BEACH EXPERIENCE IN CANNES

PAUL&SHARK X TIGU BEACH FOR A SUSTAINABLE SUMMER

For the upcoming summer season Paul&Shark will take over Tigu Beach, an elegant beach overlooking the crystal waters of Tigullio Gulf, a stone’s throw from Sestri Levante. Paul&Shark deliberately choose this part of Liguria to add its name to a Beach Club, located near an area with a rich and abundant biodiversity. This project stems from Paul&Shark’s desire to convey the idea that Italy needs to be safeguarded and taken care of, and that our planet needs to be protected. There is a need to talk about summer and lightheartedness, yet in a conscious and constructive way. The elegant and sophisticated beach takeover was developed by the historic owner of Tigu Beach Edoardo Santanna in tandem with the creative art director Mattia Ferrari.

The swimwear designer born in Saint-Tropez brings his aesthetic to the French Riviera opening his first private beach and dining experience at the iconic beach l’Ondine in Cannes. Located  just below the Croisette promenade, the permanent space imagined by interior designer Vincent Darré includes custom furnishings designed to evoke a Mediterranean beach haven, along with weathered wood panels, hand-painted tiles, a sun terrace, a bar area and restaurant serving a locally inspired menu. The brand’s towels and beach accessories will be available to rent for a pleasant day on the beach.

THINK RESPONSIBLE

A performing and distinctive design, that of Piquadro. A responsible and certified supply chain, made in Italy, that engages the company with ethical, innovative and research projects

di Valeria Oneto

Piquadro is the Italian leather brand of tech design accessories. Born in 1998 from the entrepreneurial mind of CEO and founder Marco Palmieri, whom we had the pleasure of interviewing, since the beginnings it distinguished itself for its perfect mix of design, quality and functionality, becoming the brand of choice of business men, but also women, and of travelers loving beauty and style made in Italy. All Piquadro products are the result of careful design, where leather work gets a modern and original interpretation. The company, which is listed on the Italian Stock Exchange, closed 2022 with a 17.5 percent growth in sales. Today it is committed, on several fronts, in strategies of environmental and social responsibility, with peculiar projects like the Corno alle Scale project.

Why did you chose the name Piquadro?

Piquadro means P squared, with the P standing for both, Palmieri (my surname) and pelletterie (leather goods). I have always had a great passion for mathematics, and when it came time to create my own brand, it was natural to think about it.

What values is the brand based on? What makes you authentic?

What in my opinion makes Piquadro unique is the combi-

nation of design and performance with the flavor of Italian craftsmanship, the quality of fine leathers and the attention to detail.

Who is the Piquadro customer?

The Piquadro customer is a “slasher,” a man of diversified passions who is at ease both in formal business and in extreme sports. He is a serious professional but is appreciated also at the DJ console, travels by car as well as by bike and scooter.

What are you offering your customers today? What makes you different from your competitors?

Today, consumer sensibility is very different from the past. There is widespread awareness on issues of Ethics and Sustainability, and an experiential brand cannot pursue customer satisfaction simply through product quality, innovation and service. It must have higher and more ethical goals, fill with solid and shareable values the promise and the imagery it represents. The Piquadro Group feels a very strong responsibility to promote sustainable innovation and thus a cultural change that, while preserving profit, puts in first place environment and social progress to ensure the future of the coming generations. We therefore started more than

Piquadro’s Corner 2.0 line is made with recycled materials of organic origin, perfect for being used both in the city and outdoors

10 years ago with our first social responsibility projects to promote diversity. Then there was the green shift on product design with the extension of its life cycle, the use of recycled materials and the use of leather from certified supply chains. Finally, the project to support the community in our mountains and offsetting carbon emissions for the whole Group.

On sustainability, then, which are your strategic choices?

Within the range of possible ESG activities, we have identified several areas in which to focus resources and investments. We have worked on the product to be able to replace our technical fabrics with recycled and/or biodegradable materials that perform equally well, ensuring an even longer lifespan. On the issue of the product life cycle we have been working for some time to expand repair opportunities,

and we are developing a project with an innovative approach to products repair. We are very strict about communication related to responsibility and therefore we have designed a tool to make the dialogue with consumers as transparent as possible, including in the product tags an index (Piquadro Recycled Index) showing the percentage of recycled material used. Still on the subject of environment, we have decided to focus our efforts on reducing carbon emissions and offsetting them. The 1,896 tons of CO2 produced in fiscal year 2021-22 by the Group’s companies - Piquadro, The Bridge and Lancel - were offset through the purchase of certified carbon credits generated through the reforestation of severely degraded areas of the Cerrado in Brazil. Thanks to the actions put in place by Piquadro to reduce emissions, we have had a 16 percent decrease in CO2 produced by the Gaggio Montano headquarters in the fiscal year just concluded, emissions that will continue to be offset with carbon credits. In parallel with our activities to protect the environment, we have strongly committed to responsible social responsibility with specific attention to our community, focusing on three directions: first of all support for the disabled, through our foundation with projects involving the funding of social start-ups and training. At the same time we support disadvantaged families in the area with donations of various kinds, such as PCs for remote education needed during the lockdowns and the funding of training hours for students. Finally, we have undertaken an extensive project to support the community in our mountains: the relaunch of the ski resort of Corno alle Scale by developing a sustainable tourism that respects the environment and pays attention to diversity.

The Corno alle Scale is a wide ranging project. Is it giving you satisfaction?

Yes, it is undoubtedly a large-scale project. The aim was the rebirth of this local reality by developing an aware and sustainable tourism that allows young people to remain in their homeland and not be forced to leave to find jobs and a better future. That is why we decided, among other things, to finance with

The PQ-Light polycarbonate trolley is a carbon footprint product

A panoramic view of Corno alle Scale ski resort, star of Piquadro’s eponymous green project

Corno alle Scale is a line of high performance backpacks and travel bags that Piquadro has made in collaboration with the coaches and athletes of the Italian Winter Sports Federation

Piquadro Group the carbon offsetting of the ski resort, making it the first in Italy where people ski with the knowledge that the carbon dioxide emissions of the lifts have been offset through a project of certified reforestation. We wanted to make our mountain accessible to people with disabilities as well, and we therefore planned the construction of a suitable facility and hired certified instructors. A huge effort for us, but an equally great satisfaction because Corno alle Scale has closed an excellent season, giving work to at least 100 people in ski lifts, ski schools, rental shops, bars and restaurants on the slopes, as well as all collateral activities.

But Corno alle Scale is also the name of a special collection, isn’t it?

Exactly. We wanted to dedicate to our mountain Piquadro’s first line of top performing outdoor products. We felt it was the perfect name for a line tested right on the snow of Corno alle Scale. Moreover, in this way we could give greater visibility to the ski resort.

At Pitti 104 will you present novelties related to the sustainability theme?

At Pitti Piquadro will present an important novelty: the extension of the Corner 2.0 eco-responsible line with trolleys and women’s sneakers. The range, inspired by a Piquadro success from the early 2000s, thus becomes a real travel line, composed by a range of backpacks and footwear but also by trolleys of different sizes, duffel bags and travel accessories. All produced with the same sustainable approach, made with recycled materials and equipped with technological supports that minimize carbon emissions. The other very important novelty is the inclusion in the collection of the women’s version of the Corner 2.0 eco-responsible sneakers. New colors and sizes, with recycled fabric and PU uppers. The insole is made of cork while the sole and tread contain plastics recovered from production waste. In line with Piquadro’s green strategy, the

CO2 emissions from the production of the trolleys and of the new Corner 2.0 sneakers will be offset, like their predecessors, through the purchase of certified carbon credits. In this way Piquadro is at the forefront of environmental sustainability, opting for a carbon offset not only related to the carbon footprint of the company’s activities, but also to the production of certain products. And we are one of the first companies in the world to have reached such a level of commitment.

Which are the brand’s best-selling items? How important is for you the travel line?

Our bestsellers have always been backpacks. Piquadro first offered business backpacks, launching them more than 20 years ago with a very innovative advertising campaign. Since then, the range of our backpacks has expanded and great space is now given to “hybrid” products, equally suitable for work and leisure, meeting the increasing desire of informality and mixing business and leisure. Our Urban backpacks, bestsellers for a few years now, are the perfect example of this philosophy. As for the luggage product, this is for us a strategic segment in which we expect to grow a lot in the coming years thanks to our know-how and reputation in the travel business area. Our range is already very diversified, with polycarbonate and aluminium lines, durable and extremely reliable, in a color palette for all tastes and all types of travel.

How is your distribution network organised, both in Italy and abroad? And how important is your e-commerce?

Piquadro’s distribution network spans more than 50 countries in the world and counts on 81 flagship stores, of which 53 are in Italy and 28 abroad. E-commerce is a strategic channel for us and is giving us a lot of satisfaction.

How is 2023 going?

The Piquadro Group concluded the last fiscal year with a turnover of 175.6 million euros and a growth of 17.5 percent. In particular, the quarter January-April 2023 saw an increase of 22 percent. We can therefore be cautiously optimistic for the new year despite the general geopolitical instability.

One of the quality control phases of Piquadro trolleys

The Corner 2.0 sneakers are designed in collaboration with the Italian B Corporation

Harper leather backpack, with compartments for devices and other essential items

WITH A VIEW OVER FLORENCE

A Made in Italy linked to tradition but increasingly contemporary and paying particular attention to environmental and social responsibility

di Sara Fumagallo

ARNO EYEWEAR

Its mission is to have a positive impact on the planet and on people. And how does it achieve this? By offering affordable, environmentally sustainable sunglasses produced with zero kilometer materials. In this sense, Arno Eyewear encourages eco-sustainability, craftsmanship and a conscious lifestyle, committing itself to conceive and design its products in the most sustainable way. Looking at even the smallest detail. All frames are made of bioplastic, an innovative raw material mostly composed of renewable sources, while the cases are made of eco-leather padded with recycled polyester and finished with an organic cotton strap and wooden trim. AE glasses are 100% made in Italy. While they are designed in the heart of Florence, they’re handcrafted in Genoa. And they are produced in limited quantities, to avoid waste and overproduction.

Instagram. arnoeyewear arnoeyewear.com

DO

There are no barriers here. There is no present and no future. And either no difference between man and woman. The idea of fashion that underlies the project by Domenico Orefice, born in 1997 in Campania, is very precise and free of prejudice. DO is a hybrid and dual universe in which two words - tangible and virtual - coexist in a complementary and functional way, cancelling any distance. Thus creating an intrinsic harmony that is expressed as a distinctive trait of the brand. Two words seamlessly blending garments and accessories, metaverse and 3D elements. A perfect celebration of Made in Italy through a contemporary aesthetic code in which sportswear and innovation, tailoring and craftsmanship intersect and contaminate each other. An authentic and international project with the support of Polimoda, which will debut in Florence during Pitti 104.

Instagram. domenicooreficetm

A COSMOPOLITAN PERSPECTIVE

Created by the visionary owner Tommaso Pecchioli as a shop featuring innovative fashion names, today Gerard Loft has gained great international notoriety thanks to the continuous scouting of new brands

di Sara Fumagallo

His concept of clothing combines tradition and transgression, classic and innovative look. Established in Florence in 1997 as a small niche shop, today Gerard Loft has become a reference point for customers of all ages. Its offerings range from menswear and womenswear brands to kids fashion and accessories. The first 70 square meters shop was extended in 2002 to 250 square meters. The new space was then set up with the construction materials that were used for the restructuring of the original area, thus creating an environment with the scent of the fascinating Brooklyn lofts, and sometimes a Berlin flavour.  The shop continued to evolve and change in the years, then the spatial evolution came to an end annexing the upper floor and thus reaching the present 400 square meters. The old walls of the second floor were highlighted and left in their original rough state, to be afterwards decorated with the shots of photographer Toni Thorimbert. These last renovations have transformed Gerard Loft into a very particular location, which has been used as a cinematographic set, as well as for private parties and artists’ previews. A renowned place that, over time, also managed to give rise a number of special partnerships with major brands such as Adidas, collaborating directly with Berlin on the Friends & Family project. But also with Napapiri, Levi’s, La Martina and Uniform with whom it designed capsule collections or co-branded garments. Besides it has established an important synergy with Nike: the store was one of the first to be included within the circuit of the brand’s fashion stores. We had the opportunity to talk about Gerard Loft with the founder Tommaso Pecchioli.

When and where was the Gerard Loft store established? Why did you choose this name?

Natural evolution of the Gerard brand, the store was opened in 1997 in Florence. The word Loft comes from the definition

Boutique name: Gerard Loft

Address: Via dei Pecori 34/36r 50123 Firenze

Owner: Tommaso Pecchioli

Square meters: 400

Website: gerardloft.com

Some of the best-selling menswear brands: Autry, Briglia 1949, Circolo 1901, Duno, Haikure, Hidnander, Id.Eight, Keelling, Roberto Collina, Star Point, Stone Island, Valsport, White Sand, Xacus

Some of the best-selling womansswear brands: Bazar Deluxe, Campomaggi, Circus Hotel, Co.Go, Erika Cavallini, Forte_Forte, Laura Urbinati, Mes Demoiselles, Oof Wear,Semicouture, Simona Corsellini, True Royal

of an old industrial space converted into a store, but also recalls the Seibu Loft store in Tokyo, which was established in the annex of the big department store Seibu.

Which are your mission and your visions?

Our mission is to offer to increasingly demanding customers new research brands, especially Italian ones. This is because our store is a fixed stop and a source of inspiration for many industry insiders but also for artists, filmmakers and designers from all over the world, like Steven Spielberg, Kylie Minogue, Renato Zero and Biagio Antonacci

What sets you apart from your competitors?

We distinguish ourselves mainly by the way we show and propose new inputs, always in a very sincere and original way. We have always been a launchpad for emerging brands and designers.

Future projects?

For Pitti Uomo 104 in June we will introduce a world premiere of the new beachwear brand Keeling. A men’s total look inspired to the sea, helmed by Andrea Claudio Galluzzo and the Sealand International Fund based in United Arab Emirates.

Some images of the store

CHACRONA

THE FASHION HOTBED

Royalcheese history is an all-French tale. Born in Paris in 1998, the brainchild of Catherine and Nordine Yousfinow counts three stores and one e-commerce website

di Sara Fumagallo

Born in the cobbled alleys of Etienne Marcel “Les Halles”, since the ’90s Royalcheese has been offering a selection of established and timeless brands matching with everything. Today Royalcheese counts a website (since 2005) and three stores in France: two clothing stores, at 113 rue de Turenne (120 sqm) and at 22 rue Tiquetonne (60 sqm), and one footwear store at 129 rue Vieille du Temple (20 sqm). “Offering a selection of new and established brands from around the world”, this is the mission of the boutique, where heritage brands hang alongside future classics. And although it caters mainly to a male clientele, Royalcheese aims to appeal to all genders and generations and to become over time a reference point in the sector, even outside French borders.

Catherine Yousfi has told us Royalcheese history.

When and where was Royalcheese born?

Royalcheese was born in Paris, France, in 1996. When I was in London studying Fashion Design & Marketing at University, part of the course was a year out in France – which naturally, I jumped at. It’s where I met my husband and opened the first shop together. It was originally a weekend vintage clothing store at Pouces de St Ouen Flea Market back in 1996. In 1997 we opened a store in Tiquetonne. We liked to mix vintage and modern clothing, but gradually we started importing new brands.

Why the name Royalcheese?

People always ask us where the name comes from; it’s from a scene in Pulp Fiction, you must watch it!

Which were your mission and vision?

We wanted to bring to Paris labels we couldn’t find here at the time, in the ‘90s – especially for men. We started importing brands from the UK, US and Japan and renamed ourselves Royalcheese in 1998. We love brands with a bit of history, but most importantly it’s the quality of the items, fabric and fit – as well as the relationship we can build with them in the long term. I choose the collections together with our team.We discuss what worked and what did not.

How many stores are there? And where are they located?

We have three stores in the centre of Paris, in the 2nd and 3rd arrondissement, about 15 minutes’ walk from each other. All are located in a commercial district.

Which are your goals?

This year we celebrate 25 years of activity. It is quite a milestone for us. We never imagined running a shop for so long. But I believe that when you like the work and the people, everything is much more pleasant. Now our goal is to arrive to 30!

What is Royalcheese future?

At the moment we are very satisfied with the three stores and the online store. Before we had six stores, but that was a bit too much. Although you never know: if the opportunity and the timing are right, why not open another one? For the moment, however, we are concentrating on our 25th anniversary celebrations and we hope to collaborate with some brands to create special editions.

DATA SHEET

Boutique name: Royalcheese

Owner: Catherine Yousfi

Address: 22 rue Tiquetonne, Parigi (75002)

Square meters: 60 Website: royalcheese.com

Some of the best-sellling brands: Carhartt WIP, Filson, Good On Japan, Naked and Famous, Paraboot, Patagonia, Red Wing Shoes, Portuguese Flannel, Universal Work

Inside of the Rue de Turenne store

MUSIC HAS NEVER BEEN SO FASHIONABLE

From Pharrell Williams with Louis Vuitton to Dua Lipa with Versace, passing through Erykah Badu with Marni - the most famous pop stars become (co-)designers or creative directors of top fashion brands

Angelo Ruggeri

The stage becomes a catwalk. The concert becomes a fashion show. And vice versa. In no time, fans shouting and singing with the band become the best customers of luxury boutiques in the most exclusive cities. And the target audience expands in a completely unexpected way. A new marketing, and subsequently also retail, strategy. Both successful. And all this thanks to the new trend that in the last few months has been sweeping the fashion system: the most famous pop stars become (co-)designers or creative directors of top fashion brands. The most striking and exciting example is Pharrell William, appointed the new artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection. More than a year after the sad departure of Virgil Abloh, the maison has named his successor: the US pop sensation and eclectic artist, with passions ranging from music to art, from fashion to design, as well as inspirer and friend of the former designer of the brand's menswear collection.

13-time Grammy award winner, two-time Oscar nominee, the singer of hits such as "Happy" and "Get lucky" is accustomed to the front rows of catwalks and has already collaborated with other top fashion brands including Chanel (for whom he designed a capsule collection), Karl Lagerfeld (who wanted him in the cast of his short film "Reincarnation"), Tiffany and the same Louis Vuitton.

Meanwhile, Versace will duet with Dua Lipa. Creative director Donatella Versace has unveiled the High Summer collection entitled "La Vacanza" co-designed with the pop superstar. Clothes and accessories were presented last 23 May in Cannes during the Film Festival. And it was a real success. And then there is Beyoncé. The pop star has partnered with Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing to co-design 14 outfits of the haute couture collection Renaissance Couture Collection. All dreamy. All deluxe. All super exclusive. Like her most famous hits. Beyoncé and Olivier Rousteing had already collaborated, so it wasn't difficult for the designer to tune in to the singer's tastes in terms of colours, silhouettes and fabrics. Hence the idea of creating a collection not only dedicated to his muse, but co-designed with her. "I believe that Beyoncé has somehow inherited the talent of her mother, the designer and entrepreneur Tina Knowles Lawson," explained the creative director. Last but not least, Erykah Badu teams up with fashion brand Marni. The American singer-songwriter is known worldwide for her commitment to social issues and strong spiritual beliefs. For this reason Francesco Risso, creative director of the fashion brand part of the Otb group, decided to co-design with the artist a limitededition capsule collection in the latest steps of the Marni Jam multidisciplinary program. Truly not to be missed.

Above: Beyoncé in an outfit of Balmain’s Renaissance Couture Collection Under: Dua Lipa and Donatella Versace, Puma Curry, Francesco Risso and Erykah Badu in Marni at Met Gala 2023, Pharrell Williams

Pitti Immagine Uomo 13-16 June 2023

Padiglione Centrale Piano Inferiore – Booth P/14

CONTEMPORARY TAILORING

Artisanal know-how, mainly made in Italy. We talked about trends, strategies and figures with top manufacturers of men's wardrobe essentials: trousers

Valeria Oneto

Fashions change, but good taste remains. Trousers change their shape, fit becomes relaxed, reinterpreting the codes of menswear. A continuous research of excellence, with an increasingly international outlook, stimulating quality and innovation. Always with a watchful eye on social and environmental responsibility. 2022 was a good year for players in the sector, which saw a

1 How is the trousers market evolving?

2 What are the stylisticdistinctive features of your brand?

3 What new trends in upcoming collections?

4 Which Italian (and foreign ) manufacturing districts do you use to make your garments?

5 How much do you value artisan tailoring?

6 How are you committed to environmental sustainability?

7 What is the value of the Italian market (expressed as a percentage) compared to the foreign market?

8 In terms of turnover, how did you conclude 2022? Future forecast, in percentage, for 2023?

1 There is a trend towards more comfortable fits, hence the choice to expand our offer with more relaxed and easy fits: from regular to loose to ballon fit. Recently we have also launched model 07, our "seamless" trousers with no outer side seam. It is an engineered item, a manufacturing masterpiece already highly appreciated.

2 A distinctive and elegant look must start from well-made trousers, made with exclusive materials. We design our products with a very faithful approach to two main pillars: sartorial heritage and selection of fine and exclusive fabrics. This combination, together with a maniacal attention to detail and constant updating of shapes and

creasingly more room for darts and for soft, enveloping fabrics that are also ethically sustainable.

2 We offer a wide selection, for men who are looking for a tailored look, but also for those who love vintage or technical fabrics. The contemporary man is in constant movement. Spending many hours at work he requires formal garments, but also practical items for his many trips. In the evening, on the other hand, he likes to be more casual and fashionable.

remarkable increase in turnover both in Italy and on foreign markets. Italian men's fashion, which includes outerwear and knitwear, shirts, trousers, ties and leather apparel, concluded 2022 on a high note with an increase in turnover of 16 percent compared to the previous year, totalling approximately 96.6 billion euros, a record we had not seen for a long time.

volumes, are at the basis of our credibility and heritage. Some of our fabrics are registered trademarks: the most beloved one is Royal Batavia, a very soft cotton weave with a comfortable feel, while the Chinolino is an elegant and soft-to-the touch fabric created from a blend of linen and cotton.

3 The timelessness of beautiful and well done garments. This is the trend that will guide us. We watch the changing taste and style of our customers. We do not follow fashion trends, but create the right product for our clients. Always listening, interpreting the needs of the market and offering a product that is beautiful, elegant, with a high quality and an impeccable fit.

4 /

5 Today the concept of craftsmanship can apply to an increasingly small number of sectors. Our products are the result of a great industrial experience, gained in over 70 years of uninterrupted production. Our trousers are engineered, they pass through the hands of more than

ble to recycled and eco-sustainable fabrics, to dyes with natural volcanic pigments.

4 All our products are manufactured in the production district of the Campania region. Here, thanks to long-standing partnerships and to the presence of specialized realities from the Neapolitan tailoring tradition, we are able to produce fine garments with an added value.

60 specialized seamstresses, a process that guarantees unparalleled sartorial quality.

6 Slowear, the name of our group, is the promise we make to our customers. A product made well, expressing a refined and timeless style. Our commitment is focused on a sustainable evolution, especially on the most beloved items such as Zanone IceCotton, which from AW 23 is certified organic cotton, Zanone Flexwool, which from FY 22 is composed of 100% mulesing rree wool, or the Trichochino by Incotex Slacks, for which from SS 23 40% of the cotton used is organic. In May 2022 we became a Benefit Society, a further step that confirms our commitment in this direction.

7 To date exports account to 70% compared to the 30% of Italian market.

8 In 2022 we experienced an overall growth of about 26 percent compared to 2021. In 2023 we plan to grow again by more than 25 percent by investing heavily on research and development to offer more and more iconic collections.

Briglia man's style always keeping with the times.

6 Like many companies in our industry, we feel a responsibility for a sustainable production, both for fabrics, through their regeneration to raw material, and for the treatments of garments with natural and innovative products.

1 In the last few seasons, men's trousers have undergone a change especially in terms of fit, which is more slim, comfortable, sometimes oversize lines, according to the current male aesthetic. There is in-

3 We have focused on innovative and versatile trousers, in natural fabrics but with technical and multifunctional features: from machine washa-

5

For us, Neapolitan tailoring school represents a role model. For the attention to details, the craftsmanship and finishing. Our mission is to find the right combination between the refined sartorial taste and the contemporary casual world, making

7

To date, the Italian market represents about 55 percent of our turnover, compared to 45 percent for foreign countries. Our goal, as early as in the next sales season, is to balance these percentages.

8 We do not like to flaunt turnovers as growth results, rather we always try to be moderately optimistic, without getting all caught up in enthusiasm. We closed 2022 with a strong recovery and growth compared to pre-pandemic figures. For 2023, we expect a confirmation of this double-digit growth.

PIERO BRAGA ceo SLOWEAR

MICHELE CARILLO owner BRIGLIA 1949

to softer volumes all the way to oversize. This trend is very much felt on the insider side, but as you can well imagine, the changes must be accompanied with a strategic vision and dosed with wisdom and competence until the customers, after a "little experimentation," follow a trend that perhaps they would never have imagined to include in their wardrobe.

us a strong expertise in production, without which our creative and futuristic vision would not have concretized in our collections.

5

Our headquarters is in the textile district of Puglia, in Martina Franca, a town of the Itria Valley well known in the world of outerwear. We in fact began our activity as trouser contractors. This experience has given

4

Tailoring is one of the main characteristics defining our products. According to out family tradition, each one of our trousers is a masterpiece: from the fabric to the tricks of stitching, to the impeccable ironing, to the matching interiors. All this is possible thanks to the craftsmanship of many steps. Just take a tour of our sewing lines, to observe how many steps of tailoring are carried out with a fascinating tailoring skillfulness.

1

Since this is a very large market, I will only describe the evolution of the segment to which Berwich is part of, namely contemporary luxury. Demand is for proposal collections providing clearly identifiable cues and themes for different use: functionality and comfort for the active proposal, research and details for the cluster tailoring and, finally, lightness, fluidity and fine quality for the chino section.

2 Each item in the collection is entirely made in Italy. The inspiration for each garment is based on the fascination with exploring the world and its cultures. Exploring means continuous research, a characteristic that has always been a mainstay of our philosophy.

3 We are focused on a renewal in the fit proposal, which is moving from slim-fit

ished garment. Our goal is to make garments that can satisfy both Italian and international customers.

6 Companies are often judged by the collection, by the brand, by the turnover without looking what is deep inside. I like Berwich because behind the brand there is an industry of 150 families. I am happy with the fact that an economic reality like ours distributes wealth so widely. I am advocating for a social economy that distributes wealth without concentrating it. In addition to this, from the roof to the storage room for fabric leftover, which is recovered to be regenerated, we consider ourselves a brand strongly committed in protecting the environment.

1 The trousers market is growing. With an evolution of denim, both in men's and women’s fashion.Our company, which has the know-how to deal with these changes, devotes space to creativity through facilities and constantly works for an increasingly sustainable making and finishing of our garments. We also have an industrial laundry of 5,000 square meters, a space dedicated to experimentation, which collaborates closely with the style office by designing and researching new washes.

2 We have been making trousers for three generations. The all-Italian know-how is for us the starting point. Each garment is designed and constructed with the utmost attention: from the research for raw materials, to the attention to detail, all the way to the fin-

3

Our upcoming collections are focused on denim. We favor lightweight fabrics, from seven ounces, high elasticity with recall and reform technology. Lightweight fixed selvedge in blends of linen, piece overdyed fabrics in turquoise, magenta and green. Comfort gabardine with aged treatments, bull selvedges and fixed piece-dyed twisted cottons.

4

F.G. 1936, owner of the brand Re_HasH, is located in the heart of Val Vibrata, in central Italy, a focal point of Italian textile manufacturing district known for the processing and finishing of denim. The company can count on a network of artisan workshops specialized in every production step, paying great attention to km 0 productions.

5

Re_HasH is an excellence synonymous with Made in Italy. Each pair of trousers is 100% made in Italy with the utmost care and attention to details and particulars. Sartorial craftsmanship is definitely one of our brand's strengths: we have been making sartorial garments for more than 50 years.

6

F.G. 1936, is synonymous with research and experimentation in the world of denim and trousers. The company, which has always been careful to ensuring production processes with a low environmental impact, launched for the first time in January 2020 the Re_HasH collection "Rethink - Recycle - Re-

7

The domestic market accounts 37 percent of our business. We have made numerous efforts on internationalisation, where made in Italy is highly appreciated and requested. The results can be seen and more can still be done.

8 In 2022 our turnover was around 10 million euros, with a growth of 10 percent compared to the previous year. We expect to confirm the performance also in 2023.

duce," dedicated to the theme of sustainability. Today it is our duty to be active in the production of low-impact garments, the communication must clearly reach the end consumer. We strongly believe in this. Our claim is an expression of the study that combines exclusive design with the research of the best materials, in which our heritage and our know-how unite to support and promote respect for the planet.

7

Our core business is Italy, with 75 percent of sales. We are working on an internationalisation plan to increase the foreign share, which today is around 25 percent.

8 The F.G. 1936 group concluded 2022 with a turnover of 25 millions euros.

MASSIMO GIANFRATE creative director BERWICH

MAURIZIO CAUCCI ceo RE_HASH

1 Trousers experience constant changes. New fits, trendy models with more comfortable shapes, with natural, tapered fits and volumes for men. Straight styles and workwear inspired models are always highly sought after, especially in northern Europe and U.S markets. For materials, the focus is on four fundamental concepts: quality, comfort, easy-care and sustainability. Essential for the stylistic and product development.

2 Quality combined with innovation: this is the pact we sign on every product, identified by the iconic Cruna logo embroidered on each garment. A symbol of traditional craftsmanship and passion in each of our products. We reinterpret the codes of menswear, combining continuous research towards innovation with the art of savoir-faire typical of our territory. An Elevated Casual.

Up-to-date fits and anticipation of trends are the main factors that characterising our collections.

1 Nowadays, men demand comfort and wearability. The trousers market is evolving through the use of new materials but also new concepts of dressing. The models by AT.P.CO feature a slim fit, from the high point to the bottom of the leg. The structure is classic, although we are expanding the volume, with the inclusion of pence, and the widening of the bottom from 16 to 18/20. In the collection we have included trousers inspired by work style. A look that falls within the trend “over” and represents the novelty of the collection. The materials we use are linen, gabardine, denim, jersey, tricot, micro-weave and technical fabrics.

2 The brand's DNA is expressed in the very name of the brand and in the promise. We try to reinterpret in an unconventional way the

3

In SS 24, there is no longer a distinction between work time and leisure time. The mix of ormal and casual elements represents today the most appropriate space for stylistic research in clothing, in the Elevated Casual, Cruna's DNA, which prefers high-end materials such as seersucker, linen, cool wool, high-performance, breathable technical fabrics, that offer excellent comfort. And it also focuses on denim.

4

Cruna's business model is short range, organized in Italy, or rather in the Veneto region. Only knitwear is made in EmiliaRomagna. We have organized an operation and a supply-chain close to our headquarters in Vicenza, to employ the skills of our territory, with the desire to nurture and support the places near and dear to us, with production facilities located between Verona and Treviso, passing through the Berici Hills. Our main suppliers of fabrics are Italian, such as Reda and Carvico. With Marzotto Fabrics we make four-handed, exclusive fabrics dedicated to our collections

5It is one of our pillars. Of traditional craftsmanship we carry on the entire quality process, ranging from the fabric selection to manufacturing, to the quality control carried out on our garments. Our trousers are made to last forever. Customers are increasingly attentive to details and looking for products that are well made and high quality, so the focus on tailoring must be maximum.

features and the rules of Italian men's fashion, to offer a proposal that is always up-to-date but that does not forget tradition and fine dressing.

6 Today there is a lot of talk about environmental sustainability and social responsibility, but those terms are often improperly used. Today our industry is called upon to make more traceable and precise ESG practices, according to the mantra "what is traceable is manageable." The value of a garment can no longer be tied solely to the value of its brand, but it also needs to respond to its own intrinsic value and ethics of production, to the principles of protection of the environment, of workers and of fair profit. Being young, we created our company, in a 100-kilometer area, around a sustainable mentality, based on a made-in-Italy short and traceable supply chain respecting all our stakeholders. Besides, Cruna is made up of 75 percent by women and 90 percent by under.

7 Italy is the market that has shaped us, where we have matured stylistically and commercially, and still accounts for just under 75 percent of our turnover. Since 2018, we have started an internationalisation action towards Europe. From SS 24 we are going to enter the United States.

8 Despite the difficulties of the macroeconomic context, 2022 closed with a growth of nearly 50 percent, exceeding 3 million euros in turnover. We closed with satisfaction the sales campaigns for SS 23 and FW 23 and for 2023 we expect a growth between 60 and 70 percent, with a turnover around 5 million euros.

support of associations. As far as the environment is concerned, we try to pay attention to production chains and to the selection of materials.

3

This year we have expanded the offering of the SS 24 pre-collection, with a capsule inspired from the world of sports that emphasizes the concept of color. The main shades are red, green and blue, which, in turn, are matched by neutral nuances such as white and beige. The materials are a little heavier than the main, and are jersey, cotton, piqué, gabardine, denim and knit. The reinterpretation of the AT.P.CO logo in italics is the hallmark of this mini collection. The main SS 24 continues the inspirational journey around Italy, and this season is hued with Mediterranean colors. First stop Procida to convey chromatic sensations of vivacity, with azure, blue and white. Up to Cefalù, taking its cue from the palettes of greens and browns. The key element is the use of lightweight materials such as linen, and the terry effect is taken up in addition to polo shirts, sweatshirts and shorts, interlock jersey and compact weight fabric such as Canvas.

7 Today, foreign markets for AT.P.CO account for more than 30 percent of turnover. At company level, the gap between Italy and foreign markets is further reduced.

8 2022 closed at company level with a turnover of 23 million; the expected growth for 2023 is around double digits.

4

In addition to Italian production, we use production chains in China, both owned and in collaboration, in Tunisia and in Turkey.

5

Tailoring for us is a form of inspiration, which starts from Italian tradition to evolve it towards a more casual dimension.

6 Our company supports various charity projects, we also have projects underway related to brands in terms of patronage and

ALESSANDRO FASOLO ceo & co-founder CRUNA

ALESSANDRO MATTEONI designer AT.P.CO

Pitti Immagine Uomo pad. centrale salone

MENSWEAR TRENDS BETWEEN CHANGES AND CONFIRMATIONS

Man is in eternal evolution and looking for new and exciting balances, particularly in fashion. Here are the five most interesting market transformations experienced in recent years

Angelo Ruggeri

Always and constantly evolving. In all directions: in style and product, in economic growth, in the digital world (and beyond), in the way of creating and offering new consumer experiences (not only in the store). It is official: the universe of menswear universe is experiencing a unique historical moment. And it has never been so modern and up-to-date. Luckily, I might add. Because fashion must tell everyday social, economic, political reality. It is one of the universal tools that human beings can use for storytelling without having to translate its concept into different languages. A language that everyone can speak. Here are the five evolutions that this market has experienced in recent years. And which, in our opinion, will project itself also in the near future.

NO MORE GENDER

It is no longer correct to call it gender-fluid. Neither is it unisex. Because gender, in fashion, no longer exists today. And this is a very important statement: everyone can wear anything. Finally. The fashion system, which has always anticipated everything - sometimes even making

mistakes, let’s admit it - today writes a new and exciting chapter, celebrating diversity in all its facets. Look at the coolest catwalks of the moment, from Gucci’s fashion show in Seoul to Dior presenting its collection in Mexico City. Everyone can wear that bag or those shoes. Even that silver bomber jacket. Without distinction of wardrobe. Without distinction of gender.

YOU GROW WITH EXPERIENCE (AND ENTERTAINMENT)

The experience, dedicated to the end consumer, never stops. And it must not stop. Because it is the only way, at least for today, to transmit all brand values to customers. In store, on e-commerce, on social media, through podcasts, on television, on video streaming platforms, at the cinema, on Spotify, and one could go on and on. There will be never an end to this. He who hesitates is lost, or rather, is ‘beaten’ and overtaken by competitors. For this reason, brands are competing to tell new, always different stories. And they dress actors in TV series or singers on stages and in video clips. Or podcasters who narrate and interview. Also the fashion show is no longer

Naomi Campbell in the adv campaign of the Tod’s X 8 collection Moncler Palm Angels

just a (fashion) show, but becomes a true entertainmentshow: large, ostentatious and costly events that turn the presentation of garments into a real spectacle. Like Moncler with the winning format Moncler Genius. And the accounts shine: in fact, the brand closed the first quarter with revenues of 726.4 million euro and a growth of 23% compared to the same period in 2022, which amounted to 589.9 million.

OFFLINE, BUT ALSO DIGITAL (AND METAVERSE)

The future is not only digital. Nor is it only offline. For menswear, the future is omnichannel with a lot of challenges. Like the one we have been experiencing in last few years linked to the Metaverse and the world of NFT (loved or hated, depending on the different fashion houses). The brands’ budgets (both for communication and retail), in fact, are divided into online and offline, and no brand focuses on a single strategy. The real challenge now is to foresee what’s next after omnichannel.

BETTING ON (YOUNG) CINEMA

Fashion and cinema are increasingly closely interwined.

Clockwise from top: Giorgio Armani in Venice, a selection of outfits from the collection, Cruise 2024 by Gucci, the AMI brand opens its first virtual store in the Metaverse on the Zepeto platform

Actors and young directors, new faces and new talents of the camera become ambassadors and testimonials for menswear brands. It feels like a flashback to the days when a young Richard Gere wore Giorgio Armani suits in the film American Gigolo (1980) and thanks to it they both became very famous: the former in the world of cinema, the designer in America and in the rest of the world. Recently, King Giorgio announced that he will organise a ‘One Night Only’ event in Venice to celebrate the world of cinema once again. The event will be held on September 2nd at the Arsenale and will entail an evening party preceded by an Haute Couture show. Who better than he, who began all this?

CO-BRANDING EVERYWHERE (EVEN THREE-WAY)

Not just two, now three brands, all together, to create an exclusive, limited edition capsule collection. This is the the new trend, especially in the menswear universe.A striking example? The Tod’s X 8 Moncler Palm collection Angels with an iconic Naomi Campbell as top model guest in the worldwide advertising campaign. A real dream. If one corporate mission is not enough, why notput in two, or even three? The results, then, should be analysed.

100 POINTS OF VIEW: THE FINAL DATA

HUB Style Magazine has issued the final results of the survey about sales trends of the fashion industry in 2022

Sara Fumagallo, Alessandro Marra e Nicola Sanniti

Ayear of recovery and readjustment. Few retailers in 2022 experienced particular critical issues and, indeed, throughout Italy, compared to 2021, performances saw a marked improvement. What was, then, the final balance of the last 365 days? And the future forecast?

We have asked to 100 multibrand stores across Italy - 62 in the north, 18 in the center and 20 in the south and islands - whose invaluable insights enabled us to draw an overall picture of the past year. All interviews are available inside issues 02 and 03 of HUB Style 2023 and online in “The Magazine” section of our website.

THE BEST-SELLINH MENSWEAR BRANDS

THE CONSUMER PREFER MORE THE “LOGO” OR THE NICHE, SOUGHT-AFTER BRAND?

Here are the top 18 best-selling menswear and womenswear brands in 2022, as reported by the 100 retailers we interviewed. Below is the criterion we applied for the rankings: to the first choice we awarded 10 points, to the second 5 points and to the third 1 point

WHAT WAS THE AVERAGE DELAY IN DELIVERIES?

Although for a shorter period of time than in 2021, also in 2022 retailers experienced delays in the delivery of goods.

Greater attention to quality also means greater interest in niche brands. In the past year, logo left a bit more space to research brands even if, for now, there is always a fair balance between the two.

OF THE 100 STORES SURVEYED, HOW MANY HAVE E-COMMERCE OR USE THIRD-PARTY PLATFORMS?

WHICH WAS THE EMERGING/REVELATION BRAND IN 2022?

ACCORDING TO OUR SURVEY, ALSO IN 2022 AUTRY WINS THE FIRST POSITION AS REVELATION BRAND OF THE YEAR.

Digital communication is increasingly crucial: it is important to be present online with social channels to be used even if only as a showcase. Out of 100 interviewed stores, in fact, as many as 67 percent say they use e-commerce or third-party platforms. Out of the total turnover, digital still accounts for little, but there are strategies to improve the own online presence. Still 33 percent, however, are sceptical and prefer in-store sales to continue to establish a direct and “real” relationship with their customers.

A MADE IN ITALY SUCCESS

Kangra’s history is made up of people, style and constant commitment to creating the finest knitwear, with a great attention to quality and human value

Since 2002 Kangra, Hadam’s Creations’ brand of clothing for men and women, offers garments made with unique and exclusive materials, tested and certified, also thanks to the collaboration with the most important national spinning mills. For winter, it offers wool and cashmere while for summer cotton, silk and linen. An Italian knitwear brand that, in each garment, manages to express the best of technique and craftsmanship. With impeccable and meticulous craftmanship, combined with innovation and attention to detail. All products are manufactured exclusively in Italy and contain details and stories of timeless elegance. And the stages of the production process express the technique and artisanal know-how of its home territory: the company headquarters is in Reggio Emilia, in the heart of Italy’s knitwear manufacturing district.

COMPETENCE GUARANTEE

A know-how that started in 1967, when Paolo Montermini founded in Reggio Emilia Hadam’s Creazioni, a family-run knitwear factory that made quality cashmere its vocation. In the 1970s production was mainly focused on processing fine yarns for large-scale production. The 1980s were the turning

Some images of the men’s and women’s summer collection

point. During a trip to Scotland, the company’s founder had the opportunity to touch the precious Shetland wool, which he brought to Italy. And then, a new intuition: to focus on the noble fibre par excellence, pure cashmere. A material that has become the core business of the Kangra brand. Thanks to the know-how of skilled artisans, the company is renowned for its quality and “human value” oriented mentality. Kangra is a brand with solid roots that at the basis of its work has put the love for knitwear, combined with technical skills. Thanks to this mix of relationships, agreements, collaborations and passion today the company is able to face an increasingly challenging market. The entry of Cristiano Carpi, third generation of the Montermini family, and of three young people like him, reflect the continuous evolution of the company.

SS 24: ATTENTION TO DETAIL

The classic silk-cotton, cotton-linen, cashmere-silk, cotton-crepe materials that have led to Kangra’s success are also undisputed protagonists of the new summer collection. But there are also novelties, both in terms of processing and yarns. The most exclusive is certainly the capsule collection in 100% silk: very fine garments offering a feeling of well-being. In fact, despite the presence of very dense fibers, items are greatly breathable and prevents bacteria growth. But also jersey, which for SS 24 is offered in different versions: from piqué to cotton and crepe, and to slub cotton, linen and nylon. In addition, for an elegant man there are interlock workings on fine cotton yarns, two-color jacquard, diamond links and pierced ribs. There is no shortage of stripes, including multicolor vanisé techniques. For a more contemporary man there is a rustic-looking yarn offering an informal but still refined look. Finally, as far as knitwear is concerned, the collection features blazers, bomber jackets and sweatshirts for a sportier look.

A shot of the knitting process and a photo of the Milan showroom

TAILORS-MADE

A Brescia tale linked to the art of shirts tailoring. Archivium is Cotton Company’s premium line that combines traditional tailoring with new technologies

Generation after generation, the Bracchi family faces with great passion all fashion industry challenges. Thanks to experience and tradition, combined with a love for beauty and well-made products, Cotton Company has become an established reality in the world of high-quality Italian shirting, with greater confidence and a distinct style. After a year of development was born Archivium : a line of premium shirts with advanced technology, synonymous with modern elegance, study of details and passion. Shirts that become essential for men who like freedom of movement and at the same time a formal look. The brand is designed for an elegant, self-ironic and fashion-conscious man. He is young, restraint-free and dynamic and feels at ease both wearing a classic or a floral shirt.

PURE TECHNOLOGY

It is not only passion but also gratification in satisfying customers. Not just simple garments but emotions to be worn and remembered. Archivium is the high-end shirt line of the company based in Brescia, Cotton Company, designed for men who every day seek maximum comfort from what they wear. Thanks to the polyamide, elastane yarn used for all the shirts, each model is breathable, non-iron and 3D stretch. Thus, whether in the office, on the road or in leisure time, it guaranteesa comfortable and impeccable look in every moment. For Archivium, respecting tradition and learning from the masters of tailoring is fundamental. And the same applies to new technologies and continuous experimentation, to improve products and adapt to modern times. In this sense, designs and classic weaves of the past have been reworked and revalued on more performing and contemporary fabrics

3D images of the Archivium shirt and of the fabric with its characteristics

SMART COMFORT

Archivium 3D stretch fabric offer great freedom of movement

Fresh and hygienic, the open honeycomb structure allows air to circulate between the fibres

Lightweight and practical, they occupy a minimum space and are anti-wrinkle

Non-iron thanks to their shape memory

They dry quickly and are easy to maintain

TRUE LUXURY

Natural yarns, contemporary shapes with a loose fit. Lorenzoni SS 24 is a timeless, sophisticated, textured and sustainable collection

Valeria Oneto

Synonymous with know-how, a direct consequence of 50 years of experience in the field of its mother company Maglificio Liliana, Lorenzoni continues its journey in knitwear excellence. Between stylistic research and care in the choice of fine raw materials, it pays attention to reference markets and sensitivity to sustainable innovation, which are among the Brescia company’s most important focuses. It is no coincidence that the entire production and logistics hub of Maglificio Liliana, which includes Lorenzoni, Montechiaro and Impulso brands, is completely poweredby renewable energy obtained through photovoltaic systems, with machinery of the latest generation which work faster and with minimal energy waste. Fine yarns, such as cashmere, silk, extrafine and makò cotton and merino wool are turned into unique items. The production is 100% made in Italy, with a focus on preservation of the area’s craft heritage and a great attention to research and choice of yarns, which are renewable, recyclable and biodegradable. The leading idea behind Maglificio Liliana, today led by the three Lorenzoni brothers, Andrea, Elisa and Monica, is the fulfilment of the highest expectations: from the choice of exclusive raw materials, to the search for perfection in the processing of knitwear, the flagship of each collection.

Two proposal for next season presented at Pitti 104: the knitted double-breasted jacket and the iconic milleraies polo shirt

LORENZONI SS 24: A CONTEMPORARY RESEARCH

A celebration of the key items in a man’s wardrobe. Lightweight, refined, made with quality yarns. Lorenzoni’s SS 24 collection is a contemporary and research-oriented proposa . Polo shirts, short sleeve and long sleeve sweaters, shirts, but also tricots and blazers. The entire proposal has a sophisticated, textured and timeless look, speaking a contemporary language, thanks to the sustainable and environmentally friendly approach. Distinctive feature of the collection and of the brand is the use of natural yarns, always in synergy with a great research. Items with a soft and comfortable fit. The tricots are embellished by sophisticated jacquard patterns, knitted stitches and inlays, made unique by multicolour combinations. Shapes are looser and more flowing, enveloping without constraining, highlighting a new masculine silhouette emphasised by the large collars and V-necks. An element that contributes to enhance the harmony of the items is colour. The palettes range from ivory and sand, pastel colours such as peach, mint green, sky blue, sage and lilac, as well the ever-present blue and warm terracotta tones. As regards textures, there is the must-have milleraies, but also geometries. Button polo shirts are characterised by collars, clutches and armholes with contrasting floral or monogram prints, shirts are brightened up by allover-printed flowers, which we find also in the coordinated beachwear. Among the highlights of Lorenzoni’s SS 24, it is worth mentioning the openwork weaves and crochet effects on polo shirts with a “V” neckline, but also on striped shirts in shades of green, ecru, rope and blue. Last but not least, the now iconic knitted polo shirt, made of printed bouclé yarn.

An image of Lorenzoni SS 24 collection

TAILORING INNOVATION

Montecore has reinvented the concept of outwear, making it sartorial. Combining the tradition of fine tailoring with cutting-edge technological research

Outerwear for men and women that stand the test of time, impeccably cut yet contemporary in design. This is Montecore goal. An elegance that is the result of three indispensable elements: perfect fit, comfort and quality fabrics. Since the first garment, the desire of Fabio Peroni, founder of the brand, has been to new opportunities in the hybridisation of fabrics and techniques, to dress a man and a woman always on the move. The brand pays great attention to wearability, stepping in every stage of production, using different tailoring techniques to make the fabric “fall” around the body with no tensions or friction. Every production step is studied to ensure that garments can be passed to future generations, thus respecting the tradition of making quality products and creating a lasting bond with those who wear them. Another fundamental value for Montecore is comfort: the pleasure that comes from wearing a perfect garment is the result of the attention to details and mastery of craftsmanship, who create tailored garments that envelop and enhance the shape of the body. Each garment is made from highend fabrics with a unique history, carefully selected according to the particular functionality of each garment, ensuring comfort and resistance to time and weather. A constant research, a continuous development and application of the most cuttingedge textile technologies. An example of this is the brand-new AēroTwill fabric.

AN ENVELOPING SENSATION

Tangible result of Montecore’s constant study and work, AēroTwill is the new technical fabric, launched with the new SS 24 collection. The result of years of research, fruit of the precious collaboration with a Japanese spinning company at the forefront of the textile industry, the fabric outperforms all standards, both in terms of quality and performance. One of its special features is, without a doubt, the fabric structure, composed of short threads, treated with the SPUN technique, which increases its softness and tactility. AēroTwill is textural and supple, and thanks to the weave it feels like caressing wool. The addition of Elastan provides additional softness and flexibility, making its tactile characteristics similar to cotton. Thanks to its structure it offers a tailored fit and exceptional elasticity. The fabric adapts naturally to the body’s movements, offering complete freedom of movement: a feature particularly appreciated in Montecore jackets, where performance and style come together in harmony. The fabric also features a water repellent finish on the front, and a coating of only 1.5 microns on the back, so you can get on with your life despite the rain.

Images of Montecore AēroTwill fabric and some details of an outwear model

TIMELESS AMERICAN

It is the timeless style of B.D. Baggies: the brand that celebrates American style, using pre-washed fabrics as well as innovative yarns and anticipated the vintage craze and appeal of distressed looks

Operating out of the schemes by searching out and selecting today’s innovations that will become future fashion trends. From this philosophy was born in Bologna WP Lavori in Corso, a hotbed of creativity that since 1982, thanks to the experience of Giuseppe Calori and his daughter Cristina, interprets the contemporary style and gives life to the natural coexistence between urban and outdoor living. The foundations were laid for long collaborations with brands that were to become true timeless icons. So began a path marked by constant scouting for coolness and products able to make a difference. Between 1987 and 1989, distribution rights in Italy were acquired for B.D. Baggies, the storied American brand of buttondown shirts. And in 1995 WP acquired the Italian licence for B.D Baggies, renewing its style and design.

EASY TO WEAR

Valid alternative to T-shirts, B.D. Baggies shirts are a successful

blend of a unique taste and a careful selection of materials, treatments and comfortable design. The brand was born “somewhat by chance” in 1919 when the founder Bradford Dexter Bagg, who was rummaging through the closets of his house, found a trunk full of his grandfather’s old shirts. All Made in USA, meticulous, elegant and hard-wearing. Driven by the will to carry on this legacy, Bradford began wearing them and they were an instant hit with his friends and fellow students. Over the years, B.D. Baggies collections were extended to include ever-new models and the brand continues to celebrate American style. A style that has reached the 104th edition of Pitti Uomo, in Florence, with the launch of the summer 2024 collection. The centrepiece of the collection is the Oxford line, to which are added models in new fabrics and weaves. From the linen line, available in all colours in garment dyeing through to the different denim washes, to madras patterns and Hawaiian-inspired garments. And, new for the season, button-down shirts are joined by overshirts with pockets.

handmade in Italy

PITTI Immagine Uomo

Sala delle Nazioni - stand B 3

TO INSPIRE PEOPLE

Satorisan shoes are made to last and help walk consciously. So for the summer season 2024 it presents new quality codes: functional and environmentally friendly

Designing and crafting shoes that are comfortable. With a fit and finish that only get better with age. Helping everyone to walk consciously and live from the heart. This is the mission of Satorisan, the Spanish footwear brand founded in 2010 by Alejandro Monzó Tadeo. Attention to detail makes its products unique and unrepeatable, and the environmentally friendly manufacturing process means that it looks to the future with hope and without fear. Its goal is to help people find their true self, just like the Satori: the mythical creature of ancient Japan by which the brand’s name is inspired. With the taoist philosophy and the Mediterranean lifestyle at the front of their minds, they create products with authenticity - so everyone can live simply, slowly and in harmony with nature.

THE POWER OF LIGHT AND COLOR

A collection made for those who love detail and are against consumerism. Satorisan’s SS 24 explores emotional landscapes, playing with the power of colour and light. The refined and versatile

palette combines bright tones with soft and natural nuances. As always, the materials used are noble, environmentally friendly and highly functional. Breathable and durable, they convey comfortable sensations. And to ensure all these characteristics, the new summer collection presents four new quality models. The first one is Chacrona Airflow, which involves the use of a blend of recycled polyester as the main body of the shoe, with grids made of the same material. These grids are lightweight and feature an open mesh or honeycomb structure which grants high durability and breathability. With Dharma WhiteWisp, on the other hand, the preferred cut material is a fabric cotton twill with a used effect, made in Italy. Ensō EcoMesh uses double-dyed mesh grids made from recycled polyester: an openknit structure that makes them durable and offers excellent breathability. Last but not least, Benirras Sumbe: a new quality in which the main fabric is a recycled cotton made in Italy, which with its striped weave creates a maritime and nautical look that evokes a sense of calm and freedom.

Clockwise: Chacrona Airflow, Dharma WhiteWisp and EnsŌ EcoMesh models

Images of Benirras Sumbe shoes

CONNECTED WITH NATURE

Innovative design and performance: these are the hallmarks of Dolomite’s SS 24 collections. From the wildest trails to trips around the world. Outdoor footwear and clothing designed to satisfy the desire for adventure

Dolomite, the historic Italian brand that since 1897 has become a companion of conquests and adventures on the world’s highest peaks, thanks to over a century experience in designing and manufacturing the best mountain footwear and apparel. Continuous innovation, with a strong focus on materials and processes that ensure more responsible impacts, determine the brand’s authenticity and reliability to the eyes of new sporty hikers and contemporary explorers who love to be connected with nature. And it is precisely to them that Dolomite dedicates its new SS 24 collection.

FRESH. AIR. FUN.

Fresh, fun, designed for outdoor adventures. Dolomite Summer collection sets out to convey the joy of exploration. Clothing with innovative design and high-performing, but also footwear designed to faithfully accompany us in any kind of adventure: from easy walks in the great outdoors to big journeys around the world. Just like the Nibelia, a lightweight shoe with an innovative mesh fabric construction which offers great breathability. Practical and easy to wear, it has an elastic knit that wraps around the foot, and a fastlacing system for a sporty and comfortable look. The sole guarantees flexibility and perfect grip on all types of terrain thanks to the innovative Vibram Traction Lug Design and the XS-Trek compound. Same sole but different compound for the Nibelia GTX. Highlight of the Nibelia project, it features a Megagrip compound, ideal for fast hikers and nature lovers. The upper in mesh and stretch fabric, the TPU foam protections and the original Dolomite

Wrapping Lacing System wrap and protect the foot, which remains dry in every situation thanks to the GORE-TEX Invisible fit membrane. The 12mm drop and the specially developed sole make it perfect as a trekking shoe. Another must-have of Dolomite SS 24 collection and an excellent ally for outdoor activities is the Cristallo Anorak 2.5L. Versatile and functional, this jacket has 2.5 highly water-repellent layers and heat-sealed seams with a rating of 20,000 mm. Front pocket, hood, adjustable waist and cuffs make even more comfortable this garment with a sustainable soul, thanks to the PFC-free water repellent treatment. Ideal to wear during a trip in the nature.

The Nibelia footwear in mesh fabric are extralight and breathable

The Nibelia GTX model, with features ideal for trekking

The Cristallo Anorak 2.5 is a waterproof and versatile jacket with a sustainable soul

BIO-MATERIALS ADDICTED

Revolutionary solutions that combine plant-based materials and biotechnology. UYN presents at Pitti Uomo 104 a collection focused on sustainability and performance

Anew footwear collection and the innovative Self Layer line. UYN has chosen the Florence fashion show to present its SS 24 proposals for outdoor and active life. Known for its constant research, thanks to the research of AREAS - Academy for Research and Engineering in Apparel and Sport, the Italian brand has chosen to amaze its audience by focusing on sustainability. Choosing to use plant-based materials enhanced through biotechnology, with functional designs inspired by nature and focused on sustainability and performance, Unleash Your Nature (the slogan behind the acronym UYN) thus enters the post-synthetic era. Demonstrating that even in technical-sports clothing it is possible to reduce dependency on synthetic fibres made from fossil fuel without compromising performance. Thanks to the experts of the modern AREAS research laboratory, a 3,500 square metre space located inside the brand’s headquarters in Asola (MN), which will be officially open to the public from next October, UYN has developed new-generation bio-materials, starting from vegetable ingredients, enhanced through the company’s own technologies. A perfect union of commitment to sustainability and performance that make the innovative bio-materials resistant, breathable, elastic, quick-drying and anti-odour.

of Flexicorn bio-fibre sock made from maize seeds, completely seamless, with Sock 1.5 technology which doubles the upper’s transpiration capacity. Thanks to this feature it respects the natural shape of the foot and guarantees a higher level of comfort. Perfect for long walks on hot summer days. Another new feature is the shock-absorbing Urban Trail sole which guarantees optimal stability on any terrain, also thanks to the Mega Cushioning midsole and the special design of the tread, inspired by ibex hooves in the front and by horse hooves in the back, to provide extra traction and at the same time to absorb impact forces.

100% BIO-BASED SELF LAYER: THE OUTDOOR REVOLUTION

It is a layer to wear in contact with the skin, a technical underwear that looks like an outerwear. Designed for outdoor activities, but also for people who need the performance of a technical garment in everyday life. The Self Layer is available in four versions inspired by the elements of air, water, earth and fire: AeroCross, HydroCross, TerraCross and SparkCross. 100% bio-based, they contain no synthetic fibres but Coolth_ SL, a biofibre that is not made from petrochemicals, obtained from cotton linters, thin filaments that give rise to a very pure cellulose. This biodegradable and compostable fibre, soft to the touch, is characterised by its extraordinary hygroscopic capacity. Quickly absorbing the moisture produced by the body, it is never wet, but generates a pleasant feeling of freshness.

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Above: the Arion shoe, with technology Sock 1.5, features a super-breathable upper Left :the AeroCross Self Layer, thanks to the network of micro-holes in the fabric, generates a constant flow of air with a cooling effect Right: image of the production phase at UYN

A SHOE BORN IN THE ALPS TO CLIMB THE CITY

Designed for outdoor activities, but also perfect for metropolitan adventures, the new Arion shoe by UYN features an upper made

THE SUCCESS WAVE

Surfer attitude combined with workwear is the essence of Bear’s SS 24. Soft lines and washed fabrics for adventurous globetrotters and nature lovers.

The iconic California brand Bear celebrates its 45th birthday. It all began in 1978 with the cult movie “Big Wednesday” directed by John Milius, with Basil Poledouris soundtrack. “When Boards were made of wood and men were made of iron” was an autobiographical memoir by the director about the Malibu surfing scene, interrupted by the tragic Vietnam War, which influenced customs and social aspects of the 1960s and early 1970s. John Milius developed the Bear surfboard brand for the movie, in which the first swim boxer model with the two lateral bands was worn by Matt Johnson, the most controversial character of the movie. The first Bear surfboards were made by legendary Kauai shaper Billy Hamilton. In 1980 another legend, Randy Rarick, joined the team, quickly earning Bear a reputation for excellence which later expanded to include the underground skaters and continues today.

NATURE AND PASSION

Bear’s Spring – Summer collection aims to bring the new generation, and the nostalgic, to the brand’s philosophy by reconnecting them with memories of their youth. Carefreeness and Community are the values that characterize the brand’s

DNA, which continues riding that same wave of success, which has expanded to include other product categories, such as footwear. For SS 24 the California-based brand takes inspiration from the worlds of workwear and outdoor, where the sense of freedom goes well with the total looks of the brand, perfect for the summer season. Fabrics are cool and washed, often waterproof, prints are graphic, almost tribal, and recall the passion for sea, sun and wind. T-shirts, outerwear, shorts and swimwear, but also footwear. In Bear’s iconic colors: black, scarlet red and off-white, to which sand and earth colors are added. Lines are broad, characterized by a loose-fit, typical of Bear’s heritage. The beloved surfers’ label opens its horizons to new markets such as Spain, France and Germany, while consolidating its presence in Italy, where today it has 300 doors, as well as 25 shop-in-shops. Increasingly focused on meeting the needs of its consumers, the label has recently revamped its e-commerce, a strategic tool to reach across its customers. The brand is owned and developed by Falis 2014, a Liguria company specialized in relaunching iconic brands that also owns Best Company, Ellesse, Michael Kors Tailoring/ Underwear, and has recently closed an agreement for Original Penguin, which from SS 24 will be part of the family.

Above: an image of the new Bear campaign Under: an item of the SS 24 collection, a detail of Bear boardshorts and the van with the bear logo, in full surfing style

DENIM BECOMES LUXURIOUS

A renewed synthesis of aesthetics, a collection characterized by taste and tailoring. Handpicked’s SS 24 reflects the values of made-in-Italy tradition, declined today on a contemporary and refined total look

Valeria Oneto

Handpicked represents the ultimate expression of denim made in Italy. The trousers, with a sartorial flavor, are timeless and reflect Giada’s responsible choices, in respect for workers, territory, production and choice of raw materials. The Veneto-based company, famous worldwide for its constant research and attention to luxury details, presents at Pitti Uomo 104 a collection where the total look is central: to offer customers a 360-degree service, as well as, strategically, to strengthen the development of the wholesale and retail channels. We talked about this with the ceo of Giada S.p.A., Franco Catania, who told us about the news and the future of the brand.

Handpicked is a 100% made in Italy brand. How much is this important for you?

Giada is known for building its image on made in Italy. We are convinced that high-end brands, like Handpicked, must invest in product quality, which only artisans of our territory are able to ensure. To produce in countries where labour is cheap, sacrifying quality and control of processes, is a choice that does not fit with our philosophy.

Wear Your Values: what is the meaning of your motto?

We have one certainty: we know what we do and we do it to the best of our ability. Our trousers are tailored, timeless and produced responsibly. Each pair is unique. It tells a true story, rich in values collected in more than 40 years of experience. Each Handpicked garment aims to represent the highest expression of denim made in Italy: the motto “Wear your your values” fully expresses our mission.

What does it mean for the brand to be responsible?

For Handpicked, being responsible means being certain that everything that is done to make each and every garment respects the safety of the people involved in the production and the environment in which we live. And this is done, for example, through the careful selection of raw materials suppliers.

Since last season, the brand is offering total looks. Is it proving to be a winning choice? Are you going to continue?

A brand producing garments in the luxury segment cannot fail to offer total looks to its customers. Our total looks perfectly embody the values that have made Giada known throughout the world. This choice is also functional to the development of our flagship stores, corners and shop-in-shops.

How important is research in achieving success?

Giada has always invested in research. We were the first who, skillfully over the years, have been able to transform denim, originally a humble fabric, into a luxury garment. Today, strong of more than 40 years of experience associated with modernity and innovations, Giada aspires to maintain the position gained over all these years.

Which are the markets you are present? How important is Italy, in percentage, compared to foreign markets?

Europe to date leads the way. We are present in all European countries, but there is also a great interest eastwards. We are also planning new

agreements in Japan and the United States. Already today, foreign markets are 65 percent of our turnover.

What was the performance in terms of turnover for the first quarter of 2023? And the forecast for the future?

Handpicked continues with its double-digit growth trend. Compared to the previous season, FW 23 recorded a growth of more than 50 percent. This figure gives us good hopes for SS 24 too.

Which new products will Handpicked present at Pitti 104?

The collection we are presenting in Florence is a renewed synthesis of aesthetic taste and tailoring. The different tones of denim, from rinse to bleach, are matched to the garment’s countless details, from thread to salps, from buttons to rivets, with soft, silky hands. The already extensive and well-established collection of 5-pocket, in the coming summer season will be strengthened by the presence of chinos, for an increasingly total look.

What strategies and new projects are you engaged in at short and long term?

Also for the future, we will try to expand the total look in order to strengthen the development of wholesale and retail channels. In addition to the store in Taormina, we are going to open soon two new spaces. The other project we would like to develop, starting with FW 24, is the launch of a women’s line.

Left: denim garments from Handpicked SS24 collection

Franco Catania, CEO of Giada S.p.A.

WALKING TOWARDS THE FUTURE

SPORTSWEAR BECOMES LIFESTYLE

U.S. Polo Assn. blends American tradition with contemporary trends in apparel and accessories inspired by polo, a sport that is more a lifestyle

Valeria Oneto

Known worldwide for its sport-inspired, classic American style, U.S. Polo Assn with the signature blue with white and red stripe is the official brand of the United States Polo Association (USPA), the non-profit governing body for the sport of polo in the United States, founded in 1890. The history of this sport is a history of passion and nobility, in which the competitive element was always interwoven with a range of off-field values. Polo, in fact, is not simply a sport: it is a lifestyle. U.S. Polo Assn. offers apparel for men, women, and children, as well as accessories and footwear in more than 190 countries worldwide. We talked with J. Michael Prince, president and ceo of the brand, about its strategies and performances.

U.S. Polo Assn. is the official brand of the United States Polo Association. How did this connection between fashion and sport come about?

Being  the official brand of the United States Polo Association (USPA), the non-profit governing body for the sport of polo in the United States and one of the oldest sports governing bodies, revenues from sales of U.S. Polo Assn. products support many aspects of the sport of polo in the United States. The brand also supports many philanthropic initiatives and polo sporting events around the world. The connection between fashion and sport is evident in our brand’s classic, sport-inspired American style, but also in design, inspired to polo players and their lifestyle. Like our seasonal photo shoots, featuring polo players and global ambassadors of U.S. Polo Assn: highlighting the authentic connection between our global, multi-billion dollar brand and the sport in itself.

How popular is the brand in Italy? Where are designed and manufactured the collections of apparel and accessories for the Italian market?

U.S. Polo Assn. is very popular in Italy, thanks to our extraordinary partners. Most of apparel distributed in Italy is designed in Florence. In the Bel Paese we are also known for many Italian polo events, from the International Federation Polo World Championships, where the Italian team played in Palm Beach County, to snow polo in Cortina, which will host the 2026 Winter Olympics.

What is the brand’s relation to sustainability?

Our global USPA Life initiative strives to ensure that U.S. Polo Assn. products are made in ethical and sustainable ways. The USPA Life initiative also offers a global and growing selection of apparel, footwear, and accessories with sustainable attributes. With a focus on the future, we are evolving our brand by pursuing new eco-processes and green

innovations to help reach our goal of protecting our planet. We have several long-term partnerships with organisations like 4ocean, whose mission is to end to the ocean plastic crisis: in 2022 we removed 30,000 kg of trash from the oceans, and we have committed to removing around 70,000 kg in 2023.

Which performances, in terms of turnover, did you achieve in 2022? And how are forecasts for 2023?

In 2022 U.S. Polo Assn. delivered a record performance on all fronts. We passed $2 billion in global retail sales for the first time in our brand’s history. And we expect that growth continues through 2023. The brand is now represented in 190 countries with thousands of department stores, sporting goods channels, independent retailers, e-commerce and 1,100 branded retail shops worldwide. U.S. Polo Assn. continues to climb the ranks as one of the largest largest global licensed sports brands in the world.

Can you tell us something of the new collections presented to Pitti 104?

U.S. Polo Assn. SS 24 collection is inspired by the polo lifestyle as well as by colours and atmospheres of the Mediterranean Sea: sunny nuances, such as shades of blue, relaxed fits and handcrafted materials such as straw. New textures, from linen to seersucker, for men’s lightweight shirts, light, cheerful shades and flowers that exude a retro touch. The signature blue with white and red stripe is a leitmotif on garments and footwear. U.S. Polo remains true to its roots with the classic polo shirt, in fun and posh versions.

What are your future targets?

We already passed our $2 billion target in global retail sales for 2025, three years ahead schedule. But we continue to look for ways and partnerships to enter into new markets, expanding our activities into new and exciting areas. The combination of these factors, maximised by the marketing and creativity of our global brand, have led, in 2022 and now in 2023, to our success. Our goal is now to grow to over 1,500 shops and $3 billion in the next few years.

Find the full interview on hubstyle.it

A weekend bag of U.S. Polo Assn. SS 24 Right, an image of the brand’s Global campaign

J. Michael Prince, President and CEO of U.S. Polo Assn.

ENDURING TIES

Objects wear out, passion is forever. The Red Wing brand and the Urbanstar store know it well

Red Wing Shoe Company was founded in 1905 in a small town on the banks of Mississipi, in Minnesota, and thanks to its know-how became soon the official supplier of the US army, reaching a boom with the outbreak of the First World War. A modern classic, for over a century Red Wing purpose-built footwear has been at the spearhead of innovation in the standard of excellence for work boots. Today Red Wing footwear are complemented by apparel and accessories to meet all consumers’ needs.

PASSION AND ENDURANCE

For 20 years, Urbanstar has been offering its customers the quality and craftsmanship of Red Wing footwear. Covering an area of 400 sqm, the Rome store known for its ‘research’ offers a wide selection of known brands, but also of emerging ones. To celebrate this longstanding partnership, and further strengthen the strong ties between the two companies, a special event is planned for September 2023: the release of a customised 8833 Classic Moc leather boot, sold in a made-to-measure iron toolbox, like the ones used by carpenters on construction sites. Handmade by Metallum’s expert blacksmiths, it will contain a shoe care kit and a collector’s miniboot. And its “aged” and “rusted” look is in contrast with the resistance of the footwear. This symbolism represents the intrinsic meaning of the collaboration: ‘Objects can wear out, passion endures forever’.

Images of the collaboration between Red Wing and Urbanstar

CONTEMPORARY MENSWEAR

A journey through styles and dictates of menswear. Sophisticated and up-to-date. An elegance that is not too formal, but winks at outdoors, with technical fabrics and performance garments. From Florence to Milan, here are the SS 24 previews: from tailored trousers to luxury knitwear, from handcrafted accessories to green collections

ITALIAN TRAVEL

The casual-chic brand of Italian taste AT.P.CO is drawing inspiration from the colors of the Italian flag for its SS24 collection. The red and green of the t-shirts, accompanied by neutral tones, travel through Procida, Cefalù and Milan, all locations that evoke design.

ON THE WAVE OF MR. BOX

The mascot of the Milan-based brand In The Box travels on the road and loves surfing. For SS 24, the vintage-loving bear is embroidered on garments made with recycled fabric scraps. The brand has always embraced upcycling, creating new stylistic features through recycling.

NATURAL VIBRATIONS

For the hot summer days, Manuel Ritz presents a casual collection in which formal looks are influenced by the ironic and youthful atmosphere characterizing the brand. The color palette typical of a natural environment recalls the same lightness of the fabrics. Angular shapes outline evening jackets and single-breasted suits, while the iconic garment remains the Varsity Jacket.

URBAN MINIMALISM

Functional and contemporary with hints to Asian minimalist style. This is how Duno presents the upcoming 2024 summer collection, enriched of outerwear and clothing made with new fabrics, the result of constant research. Absolute new entry is suede, for outerwear and sweatshirts, breathable and ultra light, with a special technical coating.

BRIGHT SUMMER

Style becomes a way of expressing one’s uniqueness with the Tuscan brand Gianni Lupo. Details recalling the years of youthful countercultures, reinterpreted in a modern key. Neutral hues alternate with bolder colors, on clean silhouettes and oversized volumes.

WALK ON CLOUDS

The magical 1980s return in the spotlight with Monoway White sneakers in leather and technical fabric with multicolor details, such as orange laces. The used effect gives a distinctly vintage allure. The super lightweight and durable EVA soles make them perfect for the first strolls in the sun.

THE CALL OF THE NATURE

The common thread running through Capobianco’s collection is comfort. Inspired by values rooted in the nature and connection with it, it features eco-sustainable manufacturing and dyeing methods with no chemical dyes. A musthave is the sweatshirt, with or without hood, for a casual-chic style.

A LOOK BACK AT THE 1990S

A collection to feel part of the nature, to rediscover and rejoice in the dearest things. A theme cherished by Berwich, which is reflected in the colors, in the soft and earthy tones. The brand’s spring-summer 24 collection is characterized by larger volumes of trousers and a strongly desaturated aesthetic.

CONTEMPORARY ELEGANCE

French Provence inspires the color scheme of GTA’s SS 24 collection made with sustainable materials. 100% recycled cotton alternate with light summer velvet in the must-have models of the season: the Dylan Cargo bermuda shorts and the light and cool Nikko trousers.

ARTISAN EXPERTISE

The green DNA of ANT45 combines with urban design with saturated and vintage colors. Transversal languages suitable for different visions. Summer socks exude freshness and vitality thanks to yarns such as eco cotton, linen, thick and organic and skin-friendly yarns, for sports models.

FROM THE QUARRY TO THE ROAD

Thanks to its continuous research, for next summer Ten C presents a collection in colors inspired by the Arcari Quarry on the Vicenza Berici Hills, with light nuances declined on the iconic Anorak and Tempest Anorak. New for the season is the Rip-Stop Laminate: an ultralight and water-repellent rubberized polyester/nylon fabric.ua.

MADE IN ITALY

Luxury and comfort characterize the sneaker collection of the Florence-based brand Ama-Brand. A reinterpretation of made in Italy and craftsmanship, with special attention to details and materials through continuous research.

BY THE SEA

D.A.T.E. presents the new SS24 collection, where the passion for the sea combines with innovative design. The key model of the collection is the K2, a sneaker with a contemporary appeal and a two-tones serrated sole whose fit is made more comfortable by the raised gel insole in the back.

FROM THE CÔTE D’AZUR TO CAMARGUE

Fiorio Milano , the brand known for its ties, for summer 2024 brings its experience in tailoring into beachwear. Tough seams, quick-drying, soft-touch fabric made of nylon and polyester. A triumph of colors and optical prints, also nautical and ocean themed.

100% MADE IN TUSCANY

The creations of Il Bisonte express elegance and timeless beauty through essential shapes. A tribute inspired by the prized museums of the ‘city of lilies’, through the craftsmanship of small Florentine workshops.

SPACE-TIME

A journey backwards from China to Venice: the “Silk Road” continues to be the inspiration for the Gandhara brand. New patterns and chromatic combinations. The iconic patterns from the Moyen Âge and Palladio collections are now enriched with new reinterpretations.

TOWARDS A NEW TARGET

Red , celebrates its 85th birthday with an exclusive sock dubbed, you guess, “85.” A collaboration with illustrator Nicola Ferrarese, who designed on a vivid pattern two climbers on a summit with the celebrative number.

DEEP IN THE SEA

Stone wash dyed linen and viscose are the key fabrics of Giannetto Portofino’s spring-summer 24 collection. Bright colors like turquoise and fuchsia are paired with natural nuances with a vintage vibe. Inevitable is denim on texas shirts and overshirts.

CASUAL SHIRTS

Overlay and volume effects, loose fit. Tintoria Mattei 954 presents its SS 24 collection interpreting in a contemporary way a timeless garment such as the shirt. Cool nuances with a strong presence of denim, top-dyed patterns and prints on finished garment

TRA OLD E NEW

Lotto Leggenda draws from the archive of historical collections. The iconic Autograph, with a vintage tennis look, is graced by the graffito print on the sole: I’m a Legend. Used effect and eye-catching graphics are the fil rouge of the brand’s creative path.

A CURIOUS TRAVELLER

The Mediterranean colors of the Gulf of Naples light up KNT SS 24 collection. Attention to details and relaxed fits for destructured suits. New are the “WD” trousers with wider leg and rear spring. The aesthetic of the brand welcomes sportswear, easily integrating it into the concept.

ITALIAN ATTITUDE

The Boglioli brand selects strictly Italian raw materials for its fabrics with a soft touch. Irish linen for double-breasted suits, cotton oxford shirts and silk ties. Tradition combined with innovative technologies, a perfect mix for quality craftsmanship.

MARTIAL SNEAKERS

Wushu Ruyi , the Italian brand inspired to the world of martial arts, whose founders Walter and Paolo Lorini are two renowned champions of the Asian discipline, presents for the SS24 season an urban sneaker in nylon, suede and leather, in pastel colors or optical white with refracting Ruyi logo.

A GREEN LUXURY

A new idea of masculine elegance characterizes the knitwear of Gran Sasso . Ancient craftsmanship techniques combined with modern production processes for garments made exclusively in Italy. Natural yarns such as organic cottons, linen or terry cloth are used for sweaters and trousers. Precious natural yarns and craftsmanship in all processing phases make every single Gran Sasso sweater unique and inimitable.

THE POLO SHIRT OF THE FUTURE

Svevo presents the Svevo 6TLK capsule: 100% natural, breathable and thermoregulating. One of the most representative items is the Carbon/Cotton polo shirt, obtained by processing an very thin carbon thread with cotton yarn for a soft touch.

AN INNOVATIVE REVIVAL

The revival of the past projected into a new dimension. Jeckerson creates a line for a new generation of consumers. Denim blueshades and stone shadows give a vintage effect to the garments. Loose volumes and summer nuances offer a versatile stylistic approach.

IN SEARCH OF SIMPLICITY

Luxury with 90s flavor, slim versatility and comfort. Conte of Florence celebrates through essentiality the 2024 summer season. The outdoor and lifestyle collection includes outerwear, knitwear, dresses, polo shirts and men’s swimwear in technical fabrics and bright colors.

ESSENTIAL STYLE

For summer 2024 Ellesse focuses on a colorful, retro-flavored footwear line. Mitchell is the flagship model of the men’s collection: a sneaker made from a mix of materials including leather and suede, with the logo embossed on the side. And the essential style typical of the brand.

SPORTY ELEGANCE

A rowing club where technical garments mix with ‘athleisure’ inspires Impulse’s SS24 collection. Colourful polo shirts in pastel colors, with great attention to materials like organic cotton. And a lot of denim, featured in the iconic denim shirt with mother-of-pearl buttons.

URBAN INSTINCT

The hot season of People of Shibuya features two outerwear in an ultra-light technical fabric. Teshio, double-breasted trench coat with rubber effect buttons and inside pockets. And Isamu, double-breasted jacket with enamel brooch. Both with reflecting details, for high visibility on metropolitan streets.

FUNCTIONAL STYLE

Versatile fabrics wink at the trends of the season. Oversized fits and contemporary details characterize Bomboogie’s S/S 24 jackets

INSPIRATION FROM THE PAST

Atalasport continues to keep the sports tradition alive through the essence of craftsmanship. A new model of sneakers that draws inspiration from the past, combining modern techniques and handcrafting for a unique, vintage look.

STAND OUT TO EMERGE

Ciak Roncato presents the new collection Esercito created in collaboration with the Italian army. Genius features an elegant design. The more versatile Raptor line is designed for leisure. Each garment is adorned with the five-pointed star emblem of the army

BECAUSE THERE IS NO PLANETC B

Ecoalf invites the community to take care of water, one of the greatest environmental threats caused by the fashion industry, with the Lost Colors S/S 24 collection dedicated to the Aral Sea, that is now a desert, with 90 percent of its water vanished due to cotton cultivation.

NEW ELEGANCE

Doucal’s celebrates 50 years of activity presenting the Mario moccasin. A creation made with a special workmanship that gives flexibility to the footwear. With handmade stitching that combine elegance and comfort.

QUALITY CRAFTMANSHIP

In its new creations for the summer season Tuscan brand Pineider enhances a playful and energizing dimension: two two-tone duffel bags in textured leather in new shades, ideal companions for personal interests and leisure time.

THE NOSTALGIC SHIRT

With a commitment to reducing its environmental impact, Eton launches Archive, a limited edition collection featuring exclusive prints from historical collection. The men’s wardrobe is tinged with style and nostalgia. Nine vertical stripe patterns, applied to elegant twill, with a slim and contemporary fit.

OVER LINES

For spring-summer 2024 Lardini combines classic and contemporary style. Silk shirts with poly wool trousers, enhanced by brushed calfskin mocassins. A total look with an extra-loose fit. An hymn to an all-Italian elegance.

FOR TRAVELLERS

More fluid fabrics, such as linen combined with viscose. L’Impermeabile presents a capsule collection inspired by travels: light, comfortable and versatile garments, perfect to explore new destinations.

A FRESH SUMMER

A mix of the highest quality materials characterizes Scaglione’s new collection. Super lightweight cotton, linen and silk to ensure breathability during the hottest months. Knitwear for spring, and jersey for summer in natural hues with touches of bright colors.

WALKING GREEN

Cuoio di Toscana, the consortium born in 1985 specializing in the production of sole leather, presents the new version of the iconic Green Sole. The 100% eco-sustainable green sole will in fact reveal an unprecedented aesthetic: innovative and captivating, in full compliance with the processing techniques of slow vegetable tanning.

KALEIDOSCOPE OF COLORS

Joy and zest for life: Faliero Sarti drenches sunny days with color after the winter torpor. A contemporary and super chic style, classic menswear patterns, like the Prince of Wales, but in fluo colors. Madras, in all shades, become a musthave accessory.

SUNSET STRIP

A sensual journey through American movies fashion, with a focus on sartorial beauty. Carlo Pignatelli describes a self-aware and passionate man, wearing an iconic tuxedo in a palette of black, ivory and scarlet red.

A CONTEMPORARY UNIFORM

A genderless, essential wardrobe. Seven Gauge presents its comfort, fluid, and quality vision with a collection of knitwear and tailoring in dusty shades. The concept behind the brand is simplicity. The focused production allows to avoid waste and unnecessary consumption.

GIPSY SEA

Linen, organic cotton or blends of natural materials. The lightness of the sea enters powerfully into Doria 1905 ’s summer collection. Pastel colors dedicated to summer rain, like the new version in trench material of the Raindrops line.

LIFESTYLE EVOLUTION

The summer collection of the Italian brand Bikkembergs strikes a balance between sportswear and urbanwear. The iconic pierced heel boots are revived in a new light. Stars of the collection are bags and swimwear, along with a new line of modern and technical smartwatches.

VICTORIAN AGE

Avant Toi takes us back in time to Victorian England with SS24, but with the intention to surprise and innovate. Colors with a marbled effect and splashes of color given by hand with the brush on cashmere, silk, linen and cotton knitwear.

CLASSIC STYLE

The English style of Green George shoes embody the understated taste of the business man. Novelties of the season are a soft leather-colored and a blue suede mocassin, and the black Derby, featuring a lightweight leather sole with great flexibility.

REVISITED ICON

Exclusive novelties for Baracuta , which at Pitti 104 launches a collection made with light materials, new colors and revisited classic

DENIM WORKSHOP

For the new summer season Tela Genova completes its vision with casual and functional total looks. Among the must-have there are the Timoteo with five pockets and the field jacket Brenno in double military satin.

WILD PASSION

Outdoors is in the DNA of Filson , the brand designed for people who love outdoor pursuit. The Tin Cloth jacket has an opening along the hips, for easy access to pockets or a tool belt. Another must-have is the duffel bag made of water-repellent and abrasion-resistant rugged twill.

TIMELESS RESPONSABILE

Genderless, green and made in Italy, with sustainable lenses, frames and packaging. Among the new products presented in Florence, TBD Eyewear launches the exotic Madras model, the more glamour Tela recalling the eponymous fabric and the Silk with a 1990s design.

DENIM PROJECT

Incotex Blue Division presents in Florence its SS 24 collection and an exclusive project to support young talents in collaboration with Rinascente Firenze.

ICONIC BOOTS

The 1907 Moc Toe in Copper Rough & Tough is a classic Red Wing Shoes boot. It differs from the Red Wing 875 for a split reverse storm welt that provides added water resistance.

“workwear” model combining utilitarian style and comfort.

A SUMMER IN SHIRT

Floral prints on cross-hatch textures. The new Alley Docks collection shows the passion of the company for the product, where patterns are declined on all fabrics, from linen to cotton.

OLD AND NEW SHOES

Upcycling and sustainability are at the heart of Helen Kirkum’s work. A new way of thinking ecology and design in the world of sneakers

di Marco Rizzi

Helen Kirkum is a footwear designer and artist based in London, and founder of the eponymous studio. Helen set herself a goal that is as practical as it is utopian: to save from the landfill unused shoes awaiting their fate in recycling centres. From a creative approach to the problem were born the Palimpsest Sneakers - not a symbol to remind us of faults and waste, but a new product that is practical, usable and sustainable. As she called them, a real “shoe made of shoes’. We asked Helen to tell us more about how this ambitious project came about.

How did you develop the design and upcycling principles at the basis of your project? How much have you been conditioned and inspired by your experiences as footwear designer?

It all began while studying a master at the Royal College of Art. I wanted to work with sneakers, but did not know where to begin with, so I thought it was a good idea to break some all down into their component pieces to see how they were made. I got in touch with a recycle centre, thinking they had ‘a few’ pair that I could use. When I saw the mountain of shoes which were donated weekly for resale, most of which had lost their pair and were impossible to resell, I decided to use them as my ‘raw material’ and that my goal would be to teach people to think about waste, especially footwear waste, and use it as inspiration to make items. In some of my past jobs as a designer I definitely felt the pressure and frustration of having to create something new for the sole purpose of novelty, so when I had the opportunity to work in my own studio I wanted to focus on creating the collections slowly, with a reason and a purpose.

How does the whole process work? From finding the shoes to be ‘deconstructed’ to the making of the final pair. Can you please guide me through the steps of this project?

Many experiments and mistakes were necessary to arrive at a situation where the production process was scalable while maintaining authentic roots. I am very lucky because I can rely on an incredible team that takes care of sourcing, cleaning and deconstructing every single shoe. We have a long-standing partnership with the charity Traid and periodically we collect all single, unusable shoes donated for resale to support charitable projects. The ‘deconstruction’ is quite simple, it is mainly a matter of breaking all down into their component pieces, separating everything that is usable and everything else which will be recycled again. To make one upper we need about 40 components, from one to eight single shoes. Then we combine and stitch together all the elements, so that each pair of Palimpsest sneakers we create is totally unique, with its own personality and a unique combination of materials. We have launched our first ‘Palimpsest’ collection last September – prototyping took about a year, but realistically this shoe has been my dream ever since I

first set foot in one of Traid’s warehouses . All first prototypes come from the collection I made for my master’s degree, and each subsequent project has been a step towards this final collection. It is incredibly difficult to achieve all this with authenticity, so I war really very proud when I finally saw the shoes out there.

At the beginning of this year you had the opportunity to show your latest collection during the London Fashion Week. Do you think that the fashion industry and the footwear industry are ready to understand the importance of your work, and that they have the necessary self-criticism to appreciate it in the right way?

For our ‘Step Back’ exhibition last February I proudly decided to show the entire process instead of the final product, displaying 824 single shoes coming from the recycling centres where we collect our ‘raw material’. We have shown everyone the enormous amount of material with which we come into contact with every day, inviting the public present at the exhibition to check it out for themselves. We worked with curator Matthew Needham to create a space that was raw and immersive, giving visitors moments of solitude to understand this process in a deeper way. The fashion industry is undoubtedly complex and is still experiencing constant innovation. ‘Sustainability’ has become a word which can mean anything and everything, so I think it can be confusing to imagine what is really correct and which direction to follow. What I love about our project is that it is easy to understand: a shoe made of shoes. From our part, we always try to explain in a simple way how we work and use opportunities such as the Fashion Week to show it to a potentially new audience. It was great to have conversations during the Fashion Week with guests who were discovering new things for the first time, entering on tiptoe into a more eco-conscious world, so I am proud of how we managed to create a movement that could encourage this change of mentality. Find

Above: Helen Kirkum, footwear designer and founder of Helen Kirkum Studio.

Right: one of the sneakers of the “Palimpsest” project.

A NEW RECORD FOR THE MOST EXPENSIVE PAIR OF SNEAKERS EVER SOLD

A pair of Air Jordan 13 worn by Michael Jordan in Game 2 of 1998 NBA Finals was sold at Sotheby New York last April 11th for record-breaking $2.23 million, becoming the most expensive pair of sneakers ever sold. The previous record for Jordan sneakers was a rare pair of his Nike Air Ships worn when he played with the Chicago Bulls, auctioned at Sotheby’s in 2021 for $1.47 million. In the last few years the demand for Michael Jordan sport memorabilia is rocketing and a new record may soon be set, as the Air Jordan 12 he wore during his “Flu Game” can return to auction: in 2013 it became the most expensive sneaker ever sold, with a final price of “only” $104,000.

HAS THE NIKECRAFT PROJECT COME TO AN END?

After more than 10 years, the partnership between Nike and Tom Sachs that gave birth to the NikeCraft project may have reached its final stages. In the past few months, the New York artist has been at the centre of fierce criticism following a series of serious accusations made by a team member working in his studio. These facts have obviously also compromised the relationship between Sachs and Nike, with the Swoosh stating that it would consider very carefully any accusations made against the designer. The announcement was followed by a few months of silence, broken by a new official note from Nike announcing a temporary stop of the collaboration with Tom Sachs as well as an immediate halt to any planned release in 2023. At the same time, Sachs published a letter of apology on social media, but without admitting any of the allegations. Could this be the end of the partnership with Nike?

FLASH ON THE ROAD: NEW MODELS IN THE BRANDBLACK CATALOGUE

Brandblack renews the line-up of available models by including two new silhouettes: the Sansin (in photo) and the Santa Monica, both made with a structure inherited from technical sportswear models with lightweight soles, dynamic fit and quick lacing. Founded in 2014 by David Raysse, an experienced designer who in the past worked for Skechers, Fila and Adidas, Brandblack is a brand that fuses minimalism and elegance with functionality rooted in the history of great sports brands. Over the years it has attracted the attention of many in the trainer world, even working with the former head of Men’s Footwear at Versace, Salehe Bembury.

JOE GRONDIN LEAVES NEW BALANCE TO JOIN AIMÉ LEON DORE

When in the last month of March Joe Grondin announced he was going to leave New Balance, for many people it was a surprise. Grondin is widely considered one of the main actors of the recent success of the American brand, where he was in charge of the collaborations and special projects department, consolidating important partnerships and commissioning collaborations from the likes of Salehe Bembury, Joe Freshgoods, Stray Rats, and JJJJound. Grondin has chosen his social channels to announce his new job at Aimé Leon Dore as Chief Marketing Officer. Among the various activities he will take care of for the New Yorkbased brand there will be the important synergy with New Balance, which was started by him.

A SOLUTION FOR THE ADIDAS/YEEZY CONTROVERSY

The dispute between Adidas and Kanye West may finally have come to an end. The German brand ended its partnership with the American rapper and designer because of his numerous racist and anti-Semitic comments, which have also led to the end of his privileged relationship with several brands including Balenciaga. At the heart of the matter, however, remained the fate of the huge stock of YEEZY items already produced and going to be released in the second half of 2022. To avoid that goods with a total value of 1.2 billion euros (which led Adidas to close its first loss-making year in over thirty years) could end up being destroyed, the parties have been searching for months for a solution, which seems to have been reached. Adidas has confirmed to investors that the merchandise will be sold and part of the proceeds will be donated to charity.

PALACE AND NEW BALANCE JOIN FORCES AGAIN

‘A collaboration 10,000 years in the making’. With this tag-line the London-based skate brand Palace announced its second official collaboration with New Balance. After last year collaboration to relaunch the MT580 shoes, this time Palace has chosen to work with the 991 model made in the UK, a classic of the New England brand offered in two exclusive colours inspired by models from the 1990s outdoor catalogue. The entire collection, which in addition to shoes includes some apparel with double branding, was presented with a short video posted on social media in which two hominids in the Paleolithic period ‘discover’ the garments from the new collection.

NIKE AND TRAVIS SCOTT CONFIRM THE RETURN OF THE MAC ATTACK

In the last few weeks the Houston rapper Travis Scott was spotted wearing during one of his concerts a vintage pair of Mac Attack bearing the signature reverse Swoosh branding that’s become an identifier of his collaborations with Nike. The Mack Attack is a 1984 tennis model, the first pro-model made by Nike for the legendary US tennis player John McEnroe. Since it has never been produced since its original release, it has become a sort of cult model among collectors and vintage enthusiasts. Next year, the Mac Attack will be 40 years old: could this be the right occasion to bring it back on the shelves?

END. CLOTHING PRESENTS ITS INAUGURAL COLLABORATION WITH KEEN

The British retailer END. Clothing has recently presented its first collaboration with the Portlandbased brand KEEN, best known for its unique approach to design and material selection. End. had the opportunity to create a customised version of the Uneek, an outdoor-inspired sandal-sneaker hybrid launched in 2014 which quickly became one of the American brand’s signature models. The colour palette chosen for this collaboration draws inspiration from kite flying, a traditional activity in rural and coastal areas of the United Kingdom, as well as an alternative way to spend time outdoors. The END. x Keen Uneek “Kites” are already available online and in all END. Clothing stores.

MIZUNO OFFERS A REDESIGNED VERSION OF THE SKY MEDAL

After the redesigned version of the Wave Rider, now a classic in the brand’s running catalogue, Mizuno takes once again inspiration from the iconic models found in its line and appliesthe β treatment to the Sky Medal as well. The model was launched in 1993 and returned in stores for the first time in 2019, becoming one of the main silhouette of the Sportstyle line thanks to a series of important international collaborations. The Sky Medal β is a new version, focusing on quality and materials, highlighted by simple lines and perfectly chosen colour combinations. The first colourway, already available in shops, combines different shades of brown, beige and green, mixing premium details with elements of the sports tradition.

J. BALVIN DEBUTS HIS NEW COLLABORATIVE AIR JORDAN SNEAKERS

For some years now, singer and record producer J. Balvin has been one of the main Air Jordan representatives off the sports field. The Colombian star had already two collaborations to his credit and will soon add a third one. The new Air Jordan 3 sneakers were spotted on the superstar’s feet while walking around at the Paddock Club at the Formula 1 Miami Grand Prix, on May 7th. The first shots posted online immediately created great expectation among fans, including another Air Jordan celebrity, namely DJ Khaled, who immediately tried to secure a pair. At the moment there is no. At the moment there is no definite information available, but it seems that the Air Jordan 3 x J. Balvin sneakers will be released in September.

HOKA AND COTOPAXI JOIN FORCES AGAIN

HOKA and outdoor brand Cotopaxi have teamed up for a second time to launch a limited-edition colourful collaboration. The model chosen is the Anacapa Breeze Low, a trail running shoe suitable for all weather conditions, with a Vibram Megagrip sole and Hubble heel geometry for a more comfortable support and footstrike even on uneven terrain. What makes this version special is the terracotta shade chosen for the upper, with accents ranging from the light blue of the sole to the purple of the tongue and the green of the lining. On the occasion of the release Cotopaxi, who has always been involved in charitable activities in Latin America, and HOKA donated $60,000 to True Colors United, an organisation that supports boys and girls from minorities and the LGBTQ+ community, implementing solutions to youth homelessness and creating new employment and social opportunities.

JAE TIPS AMONG SAUCONY ORIGINALS PARTNERS

In recent seasons, collaborations have once again become one of the strong points of Saucony Originals, which under the management of Jason Faustino has been able to work at its best with an eclectic selection of big brands, new partners and artists entering the world of trainers. One of them is the New York rapper and Bronx native Jae Tips, who had the opportunity to work on a limited edition of the Grid Azura 2000 with attention to every detail, from the selection of materials and colours to the placement of lettering and hidden messaging. The collaboration was initially released only in NYC with enormous success, before being distributed to a selection of international retailers.

KARHU X SASU KAUPPI “JOIN THE TEAM” COLLECTION

Last spring Karhu decided to renew its relationship with the Finnish fashion designer Sasu Kauppi by entrusting him with the first one-handed collaboration. The “Join the team” capsule collection includes the Fusion 2.0 in two exclusive colourways and a series of garments inspired by Karhu’s mid 80s Sportswear catalogue, from which Kauppi also adopted the rainbow-striped logo. After finishing his studies at the prestigious Central Saint Martin in London, Kauppi held several important roles in the design world until the beginning of his partnership with Kanye West, who wanted him at YEEZY first as a consultant and then as head designer for the menswear line. Kauppi then returned to Finland to found his own brand SSSU, with which he first worked with Karhu by taking part in a six-handed collaboration with London-based retailer Foot Patrol, released in 2020.

SAMUEL ROSS REINTERPRETS TIMBERLAND’S ARCHIVE

Future 73 is the revolutionary project with which Timberland is involving designers, artists and creatives from all over the world called upon to reinterpret the classics in the American brand’s archive. One of the invited guests is Samuel Ross, the brilliant British designer and founder of A-Cold-Wall*, who has come up with his personal vision of the 6-inch lace-up boot and the 3-eye-lug shoe. Ross took inspiration from two aspects of London as distant as they are iconic and recognisable, like Brutalist architecture and Caribbean culture. The 3-eyelug shoe is entirely made of ballistic nylon, replacing the traditional leather upper, while the 6-inch lace-up boot has been completely revolutionised, stripping the styles of lacing and replacing it with a zip closure.

SALOMON AND SANDY LIANG ANNOUNCE THEIR FIRST COLLABORATION

The excellent work done in recent years is paying off, and Salomon continues to make waves in the sneaker world as well. While many are anxiously awaiting the upcoming release with Hidden.ny, cleverly posted well in advance on social media to entice collectors, another collaboration has been a great success: the collection signed by New York designer Sandy Liang, which includes an XT-6 Expanse and an RX Moc 3.0. The classic XT-6 has been dressed in different shades of pink, with black and green accents, while the RX Moc 3.0, a much more technical-lookingmodel with a one-piece mesh upper, is all played out in black and white, over which stands out the floral theme Sandy Liang has included in many of her creations.

IN THE HEART OF FLORENCE

Established in 2016 in the capital city of the Italian region of Tuscany, Flow Run has conquered national and international customers with its selection of unique and sought-after sneakers

Maria Pina Ciuffreda

Since January 2016, in the unique setting of the famous Piazza Strozzi in Florence there is an amazing boutique specialized in luxury sneakers and shoes in limited edition. We are talking about Flow Run, the exclusive store where you can find new seasonal trends and established brands. A real cult store for every sneakers addicted and streetwear fashion enthusiast. We talked about it with Lorenzo Giovinazzo, store manager at Flow Run.

First of all I ask you, in line with our tradition, to introduce yourself to our readers and tell us briefly about Flow Run.

Flow Run was established in 2016 as an extension of the famous fashion boutique Flow Store with the idea to give to the city of Florence a completely new store selling only men’s and women’s sneakers, from famous international brands to limited editions. Dai marchi più conosciuti, alle edizioni limitate. We invest a lot of time in research and offer a lot of emerging and made in Italy brands.

Florence is undoubtedly one of the cultural and tourist capitals of Italy. What are the main advantages, and what are the difficulties, in dealing with international customers on a daily basis?

In a city like Florence we are always in contact with new people and different cultures, and over time sneakers have increasingly become a link between different styles of interpreting fashion.

At the moment, in the world of sneakers ‘00s patterns and looks seem to be making waves, thanks in particular to the great work of Japanese brands such as Mizuno and Asics. Which do you think could be the next big trend? There will always be customers who will not give up a more classic look, but as of today the technical shoe and innovation in fabrics and materials are definitely taking a big share of the market. You can no longer give up comfort. What we will see will be increasingly technical and high-performance but with a greater attention to the look.

If you could choose a brand and model that you are particularly fond of, perhaps because of Flow Run story, what would be your dream collaborative sneaker?

At the moment we are already collaborating on style development with several made-in-Italy companies that let us express our way of interpreting handmade sneakers. In particular I mean companies like Alexander Hotto, Primabase, Alberto Fasciani, Seboy’s and Shoto.

DATA SHEET

Name : Lorenzo Giovinazzo � Position : store manager � Boutique : Flow Run � Address : via degli Strozzi 16R, Firenze � Instagram : @flowrunfirenze

Above: the Flow Run team

Under: some images of the store