HUB Stye - Issue #01-2023

THE BUILDING OF A BRAND

It’s like an altar of sand by the sea […]

I like watching it go up

Like a hundred-story skyscraper

Or like a sunflower

We like to start this first editorial of the year with some quotes of the wonderful song “The building of a love” written in 1978 by the Genoa songwriter Ivano Fossati. Hence the title reference. Paraphrasing: to build not only a love but also a brand requires commitment, passion, experience and many other virtues. It is a work in progress, beautiful but also delicate, like “an altar of sand by the sea”. When we talk about brads we are not only referring to companies, but also to the distribution network. Some stores, after all, are similar to real brands: authoritative, recognizable and iconic.

Often, however, this element is not given due importance. Even by the retailers themselves, who often consider much more important the products that are sold in their store. Not realizing that they themselves are (or can be) a real brand, which can build customer loyalty and often also influence purchasing decisions. However it is worth remembering how any clothing, footwear or accessories company can at any time disappear from the windows or shelves of a store. For what reasons? The most diverse: misunderstandings or difficulties; a different strategy that leads the company to reduce the number of its multibrand stores, perhaps increasing that of flagship stores; a repositioning of the brand; the choice to privilege other distribution channels or to strengthen DTC (direct to consumer); more generally, a change in strategy; and we could go on with more case studies.

That’s why, while giving the right, sometimes fundamental, importance to partnerships with companies, every dealer should think (also) about investing in his brand identity. Thinking and operating as a true full-fledged factory. At various levels. These include analyzing and approaching the market, starting from its correct interpretation and knowledge. For this reason it is important to be constantly updated on data and trends in one’s sector. By the way: according to the final statement, the Italian fashion industry reached record results in 2022, with a turnover of 96.6 billion euros (+16% compared to 2021, net of inflation of about 9%), the highest value in the last 20 years. Also exports were good, exceeding 80 billion euros (+19%), with a trade surplus of more than 28 billion. Of course, costs have risen too, and 2023 starts again in an uncertain mood. But already in mid-January at the 103rd edition of Pitti in Florence and during Men’s Fashion Week, with 72 events scheduled in Milan, we will have the first answers. We trust they will be, if not enthusiastic, at least amply reassuring.

BENEDETTO SIRONI

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Publisher Sport Press Srl SB Editor in Chief: ANGELO FRIGERIO Editorial Director: BENEDETTO SIRONI

Project Manager: CRISTIANO ZANNI Editors: VALERIA ONETO, SARA FUMAGALLO, NICOLA SANNITI, ALESSANDRO MARRA, SARA DEGENNARO

Art Director: RICCARDO RECCAGNI Contributors: MARCO RIZZI, ANGELO RUGGERI, STEFANO GUERRINI

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Closed at the editorial office on December 23, 2022

16-18

BLUE DIVISION: THE ESSENCE OF DENIM

26 IS THE FASHION SYSTEM RUNNING TOO FAST?

42 WEAR YOUR VALUES

66-69 SNEAKER SECTION

OUTDOOR IS FASHIONABLE WITH NAPAPIJRI AND LUISA VIA ROMA

The iconic outdoor brand Napapijri, born in Aosta in 1987, and the Florence-based luxury fashion retailer Luisa Via Roma have given birth to a limited edition capsule collection intended as a shared exploration of fashion, a catalyst for daily adventures. The capsule features four styles, each one composed by five items. The flagship item is a two-piece for après-ski made in recycled stretch technical fabric.

FIRST COLLABORATION BETWEEN CANADA GOOSE AND REFORMATION

Canada Goose enters a new era with its fist collaboration with Reformation paying homage to sustainable fashion thanks to both companies knowhow. The Toronto brand has contributed with its experience in outerwear to provide warmth and protection from the elements while Reformation has plaid an important aesthetic part with its typical retro style. Stand out of the line are the bright colours and prints that characterize the new silhouettes selected by the brand.

ALANUI X MOON BOOT: A JOURNEY NORTH OF THE WORLD

Blending fashion and mountains. For their new collaboration, Alanui and Moon Boot have created a collection featuring three styles: Icon High, Icon Low and the new Full Moon. The Icon High is made of waterproof virgin wool with “Icon” jacquard suede pattern; the Icon Low is the lower version of the Moon Boot available in three different colours and features fringe detailing and laces adorned with beads. The third and latest model, the Full Moon, is a slip-on nylon shoe suitable for urban use.

OPPOSITES ATTRACT WITH FRED PERRY X GATE194 PROPOSAL

Gate194 is a Berlin-based independent concept boutique and a longtime Fred Perry stockist. For this season the two brands have created a collaborative collection including the Twin Tipped Fred Perry Shirt in the signature cotton piqué and the hoodie, adapted to the independent spirit and conceptual aesthetic of the German store. Here East and West work together with craftsmanship and innovation, luxury and utilitarianism, combining opposites to create something new.

THE NORTH FACE AND THE “GREEN” CAPSULE

The North Face is more and more committed to sustainability with a new project using 100-percent recycled fabrics. The brand launched the latest chapter in the “It’s More Than A Jacket” campaign with the Neon Icons collection, that revisits the legendary garments used by unique athletes during their most important expeditions.

NEWS, COLLABO & CAPSULE

AT PITTI IN COMFY-COOL MODE WITH JUICY COUTURE

Also for this Pitti edition, Juicy Couture will be a special guest. Its FW 23/24 collection aims to confirm the Los Angeles brand as a leader of the loungewear sector, also thanks to a new generation of “Juicy girls” who are falling in love with its sporty-chic style. Stand out of the collection are a scratchy line inspired by the American western influence of the 90s and a mix of animal prints.

FASHION IS MORE AND MORE HI-TECH WITH ANTEPRIMA

Thanks to the partnership with AIDA (Interactive Design Assistant for Fashion), the first interactive assistant for fashion designers based on artificial intelligence, Anteprima, has created a special collection which will be part of the SS 23 collection. The technology created a design system based on the inspiration of individual designers, combining moodboards, sketches and ideas with the designer’s inspiration and quickly generating a model. The result are eight looks that echo the leitmotif of the summer collection.

AN UNEXPECTED COLLABORATION: OCTOPUS X MANTERO

The tentacles of Octopus have captured the silk universe with this collaboration with Mantero. The capsule features four illustrations drew by hand by the Mantero artists that blend the iconic tentacles of the Milan brand with classic nature-inspired motifs taken from the incredible Mantero archive.

AMERICA MEETS ITALY WITH TOD’S X 8 MONCLER PALM ANGELS

An iconic capsule collection for men and women born from the collaboration between Tod’s and Palm Angels for Moncler Genius. This partnership translates the message of lifestyle and high quality craftmanship of Made in Italy in the contemporary language of new generations, who like to celebrate the active spirit of American sports, and for this reason

“the creative energy and roots in American Pop culture of Palm Angels transform two timeless Tod’s icons for Moncler Genius.” This projects is part of the “Tod’s-FACTORY”: a creative workshop in which established and emerging designers are invited to offer their point of view on the Italian brand’s DNA.

A UNIQUE SYNERGY BETWEEN C.P. COMPANY AND PALACE

C.P. Company and Palace have launched an exclusive collection that mixes the aesthetic values of both brands. For this collaboration were picked out some key pieces of the Italian brand such as the duffle coat, while adding Palace staples such as the bomber jacket and the sweatpants thus creating a unique style. The iconic piece of the collection is the long duffle coat with an original striped pattern, inspired by old army blankets.

NEW OPENING DON JOHN IN MILAN

Don John opens its third store in Milan, more precisely in via Dante 14. The brand selling men’s total look clothing has decided to open a store in the street connecting piazza Cordusio and largo Cairoli. Covering a total surface of more than 200 square meters, the selling space reflects the brand’s elegant style right from the entrance with two large shop windows. Inside, the marble and wood details reflect the brand’s DNA.

DELVAUX OPENS

A NEW STORE IN JAPAN

Delvaux is conquering Japan, and precisely Tokyo. The brand has decided to open a new flagship store in the commercial complex Omotesando Hills. For this project, Delvaux has commissioned the architecture practice Vudafieri Saverino Partners to design a two storey boutique which is going to be a bridge between the Land of the Rising Sun and Brussels, the company’s native city.

ETRO OPENS ITS SECOND BOUTIQUE IN BARCELONA

After the opening in Puerto Banús, Marbella, in July 2022, Etro is opening a second boutique in Barcelona, in Paseo de Gràcia: a unique cultural area that was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984. The new flagship store has thus opened in one of the most important avingudes of the Spanish town and sells both women’s and men’s ready-to wear collections and accessories, as well a selection of items of the Home Collection.

DONDUP ARRIVES IN BELGIUM

Dondup, the world leader on the denim market, has opened a new permanent store in Antwerp, Belgium. The store is located in the historic centre, at 31 Schutterhofstraat, the city’s main shopping hub. Its interior design features an industrial vibe that recalls the brand’style, with materials like wood, steel and concrete. The focus point, however, is the large glass cabinet placed inside.

BORSALINO OPENS ITS NEW BOUTIQUE INTO THE SPIGA26 CREATIVE HUB

Borsalino continues its ongoing relaunch plan with a new boutique opening in Via della Spiga n.26, in the heart of Milan’s Fashion District. In December 2022 the hat brand of Haeres Equita opened its doors to the new space located inside Spiga26 creative hub, unveiling an innovative retail concept. The new Borsalino boutique is spread over an area of about 70 square meters with 2 large floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the street.

THE ESSENCE OF DENIM

Slowear’s new entry teaches us that style comes before fashion, with a high-end product with a distinctly Italian feel, that stands out for quality, aesthetics and durability

Valeria Oneto

Incotex Blue Divison continues its growth and affirmation path in the scene of tailoring fivepocket trousers. The Venetian luxury denim brand, which is part of the Slowear group together with Incotex, Zanone, Glanshirt, and Montedoro, presents at Pitti Uomo Florence its fourth collection combining the unmistakable style of Incotex with the manufacturing capacity of Giada, a leading company in the production of luxury denim. Two companies, by the way, attentive to responsible production, both in environmental and social terms. Creativity, innovation and technical expertise are the elements that characterize Incotex FW 23/24 collection, with three lines expressing the soul of the brand: Superior stands out for its wide range of fits and fabrics; Couture is the perfect expression of Incotex’s sartorial expertise applied to denim, with exclusive manufacturing details typical of the tradition of tailormade trousers; and finally Lab, the most innovative and avant-garde line. A return to the essence and at the same time a redefinition of denim in an innovative key. We have interviewed Marco Bernardini, CEO of Slowear.

How and when did you have the idea for Incotex Blue Division?

The idea emerged during the pandemic from the desire to expand Incotex’s offer into the denim universe. Our

ambition was to propose, as we already to with our trousers, a unique and innovative product.

Why did you choose Giada S.p.A. for this partnership?

Giada was chosen for its supreme technical expertise and manufacturing capacity in denim, and we counted that merging out respective skills would bring virtuous results.

What is the company’s, and in particular Incotex Blue Division’s, approach to sustainability?

In May 2022 Slowear has become a Benefit Corporation, with the goal of achieving B Corp certification in 2023. As confirmed by our group name, we have always been a purpose-driven company that responds to social and environmental standards. As for Giada, considering that denim is one of the most polluting industries in the world, its productive facilities use recycled water and production technologies based on a true “Green Denim Culture.”

Can you explain us the concept of “luxury denim”?

The concept starts from product construction, in our case sartorial style, based on more than 70 years of expertise. Our brand is lauded for producing “the best trousers in the world.” Then comes the selection of

The Venice-based company Slowear

SS 23: DENIM MEETS SARTORIAL

For SS 23 Incotex, the brand lauded for producing “the best trousers in the world,” continues, with Blue Division, its exploration of models and fits declined in denim. A combination of expertise and craftmanship, research and experimentation, taste and avant-garde, where denim meets tailoring, redefining its boundaries in the men’s wardrobe. The three lines of the SS 23 collection – Couture, Lab and Superior – include tailored trousers, Incotex’s signature product, and five-pocket casual models with exclusive manufacturing details, all made with sophisticated engineering techniques and available in 30 different fabrics and 45 washes.

fabrics: apparently denim fabrics are all identical, but actuality it is the material itself that makes the difference. And finally, fundamental are the finishing touches, in our case tailoring: for example, the belt thinner in the back and wider on the front, but also the use of pleats or profile pockets.

What does it mean to you to be made in Italy?

How important is this value?

Also on Slowear products, Italianity has always been a fundamental value. Although for us it is more related to the concept of lifestyle than to Made in Italy in itself. A lifestyle that is expressed through aesthetics and style, to the skillful use of colours and to an interesting offer of volumes. A dressing capacity in which style comes before fashion. All our denim models are made in Italy and another aspect of the Italianity of our offer is the great craftsmanship and supreme manufacturing expertise of Giada.

Which are the stylistic dictates that characterize the brand and make it unique?

“Denim Meets Sartorial” is the mission of this project. A great sartorial expertise expressed in denim garments that become collector’s items for those who love this style.

In terms of distribution, what are the markets on which the brand is present?

Since the beginning this brand has proved to be a very interesting project and quickly had success on the European, northern European, Italian and Japanese markets.

How is your distribution organised?

Are you planning new openings?

Our group is organized into two divisions: the first manages individual brands (Incotex, Zanone, Glanshirt, Montedoro) and the other the retail network. The brands

A casual low waist model of the Couture line for SS 23

A photo of the Couture line of Incotex Blue Division for SS 23

are now divided among 400 selected retailers around the world. At the same time, this year we have opened two stores: one in Rome, inside Rinascente Fiume, and another in New York, on Lafayette Street, with a new concept and larger spaces compared to our traditional stores. In 2023 we aim to consolidate our retail network of more than 30 stores and our e-commerce, and then in 2024 restart the expansion of physical retail with five new openings.

In terms of numbers, how much counts e-commerce? Our online platform generates about 15 percent of the multichannel revenues.

In terms of turnover, how did 2022 end?

Which are the forecast for 2023?

In 2022 revenues registered a total growth of about 22% compared to 2021. In 2023 we aim to grow by more than 25% by investing a lot in new collections.

How much does Italy count compared to foreign markets?

In terms of total revenues, around 30% are derived from Italy and 70% from abroad.

What are the novelty of the fourth Incotex Blue Division collection for FW 23/24?

Above: Denim chino trousers with contrasting patterns Under: Five-pocket model of the Lab line for FW 23/24, with an original handmade style contrast

a new six-pocket model. The Couture line is the perfect expression of sartorial expertise applied to denim, with exclusive manufacturing details typical of sartorial trousers. The Lab line represents the most innovative and avant-garde approach to denim, both in cutting and dyeing processes, with tailored garments and a great attention to hybrid models which mix different materials and styles.

A hybrid corduroy denim model of the Lab line for FW 23

FROM A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE

Opening the mind and looking at the world from a different perspective. This is how young talents make their way in a universe, that of fashion, which every day offers something new

Sara Fumagallo

NOSKRA

Dystopic and abstract. This is the universe of NOSKRA, the menswear brand born with a unisex vision from an intuition of Andrea Lonigro, founder and creative director. The word “nostra” written with the “k” takes on a different meaning: in the runic alphabet this letter is also called “Kenaz” (torch). A light at the end of the tunnel, then, which shows itself as a collection featuring oversize trousers, sweatshirts, shirts and bomber jackets in a palette of neutral colours. The only contrast are the brutalist graphics and the maxi pockets inspired by Le Corbusier’s buildings. The collection is strictly manufactured in Italy, a strong point thanks to workshops that still use traditional craftmanship and certified suppliers.

Instagram. studio.noskra noskra.com

SIMON CRACKER

“Crack” is the sound of something breaking. And this is where it all starts from. “My grandfather always said not to throw things away but to think about whether they could be useful in other forms and functions,” says the designer, and in fact each one of his collections is inspired by memories, looking at the past to build the future. The SS 23 collection titled “Reality Bites” is inspired by the 90s film of the same name, but told from the brand’s perspective and looks to reflect the path and experiences in creating the summer collection. For this season the brand deepened its “punkindness” concept (kind punk) mixed with a raw aesthetic made. The result is a “real” collection, made with recycled and upcycled materials and worn on the catwalk by the brand’s fans and friends.

Instagram. simoncracker simoncrackermilano.com

IS THE FASHION SYSTEM RUNNING TOO FAST?

Alessandro Michele is leaving his role as creative director at Gucci and Raf Simons brand is closing his eponymous label. Too much importance to numbers (which must keep on growing) and less to creativity?

Angelo Ruggeri

November 2022, a month of reasoning for fashion. Important ones, I might add. Two unexpected shocks in less than two weeks have shaken the international fashion world. The visionary designer Alessandro Michele has left his role as creative director at Maison Gucci after more than seven years. Enormously successful years if one analyses the numbers, the great stylistic targets reached and the values shared with the new generations.

“There are times when paths diverge due to the different perspectives each one of us may have,” said Alessandro Michele in a statement about his leaving the Kering group. “Today an extraordinary journey ends for me, lasting more than twenty years, within a company to which I have tirelessly dedicated all my love and creative passion. During this long period Gucci has been my home, my adopted family. To this extended family, to all the individuals, who have looked after and supported it, I send my most sincere thanks, my biggest and most heartfelt embrace. Together with them I have wished, dreamed, imagined. Without them, none of what I have built would have been possible. To them goes my most sincere wish: may you continue to cultivate your dreams, the subtle and intangible

matter that makes life worth living. May you continue to nurish yourselves with poetic and inclusive imagery, remaining faithful to your values. May you always live by your passions, propelled by the wind of freedom.” What are the reasons of this unexpected departure? According to rumors, his creativity was good, but not great; sales did not shine as before; his style was considered a little too static. And the group, always according to rumors, wanted to increase revenues. In a few seconds, seven years of stylistic achievements, spectacular product placements (like those with Måneskin and Harry Styles), of values shouted on the catwalk, have been forgotten. Did numbers win out over creativity?

Another recent example. Always in November, Raf Simons announced in a surprise press release that he was shuttering his namesake brand after a creative journey lasted 27 years. Business was good, the community of customers and fans was strong, but perhaps the goals (also economic) were too difficult to reach (since April 2020, the Belgian designer has also been co-creative director with Miuccia Prada of Prada). Here too, did the 'fast and ruthless' numbers win out over creativity? Surely yet another episode on which to reflect.

Above: Fashion designers Raf Simons and Alessandro Michele

BOUTIQUE AT HIGH ALTITUDE

For more than 40 years, Jack&Jack has ranked first among Livigno’s best stores with a clear mission: to anticipate trends and bring fresh innovations to the famous ski resort

Sara Fumagallo

Fa major player of Livigno shopping scene. Research and creativity, combined with the quality of the offer focused on outerwear for men and women, are the main features of the store. It is not just one store, but three locations – via Bondi, 120/D (Isola), via Fontana, 200 (Fontana) and via Ostaria, 179 (Ostaria) – with two new stores opened in December 2022, B-Lab and Isoladue. Here, too, the men’s and women’s collections are characterized by a contemporary and innovative style that is also reflected in the management system that makes use of the Sales Assistant App technology.

We talked about Jack&Jack and the two new stores B-Lab e Isoladue with the owner Maurilio Giacomelli.

Why did you decide to open a clothing store?

I liked clothing, fashion and research and I have sensed from the beginning that Jack&Jack would be something mine, which could grow and evolve and in which I could develop my ideas. We were the first in Livigno to believe in and sell snowboard and streetwear clothing, but also the first to change when our competitors started to sell brands of the same sector.

What has changed from 1979 to today?

The first change took place in 1998, with the opening of the second store where Jack&Jack Isola is located today. A single-brand Oilily, at the time a true must-have and synonymous of creative style for 0-16 year kids. Then that same store became home to Culti Home Collection, the fragrances for the living space that is still present in our stores today. In 2002 we opened the third store located in via Ostaria, at the beginning of the pedestrian street. At first it was called Jack Point, and sold the products of the top brand for the generations of that time: the Daü of Livigno, a mythological animal that was the mascot of the Livigno valley and of the 2005 mountain bike world championship. In 2012, the Daü Store made room to a flagship store for Tommy Hilfiger, the iconic brand with which we share the same values of sustainable fashion. In 2015, after a major architectural makeover, the Jack&Jack Center located in via Isola was expanded and became

DATA SHEET

Boutique name: Jack&Jack B-Lab

Owner: Maurilio Giacomelli

Address: Via dala Gesa, 650, 23030 Livigno (SO)

Square meters: 160

Website: jack-jack.com

Some of the best-sellling brands: Blauer, Calvin Klein Jeans,Colmar, Disclaimer, K-way, Lacoste, Nove25, Peuterey, RRD - Roberto Ricci Design, Star Point, Tommy Hilfiger

a multibrand store. In 2018, we opened Jack&Jack Fontana in the heart of the town’s shopping street, a 300 square meters space offering the typical mountains materials, reinterpreted through the spacious premises with an urban design and projecting the brand into a younger and more dynamic dimension.

Inside Jack&Jack Fontana you have installed a hi-tech water dispenser. What is it all about?

The idea of installing into the store a water dispenser comes from the need to reduce the impact on our planet of disposable plastic bottles. Every time we refill the bottle, we avoid -0.08 kg of CO2

EQ from being released into the atmosphere. Next to the dispenser are displayed the 24Bottles thermal bottles that our customers can purchase and refill. But there is more. When we choose a new brand to sell in our stores, we consider it seriously and thoughtfully, focusing on brands certified by B Corp.

In December 2022 you opened two new stores. What can you tell us about them?

The opening of the new stores represents two big steps toward the future of our brand, and at the same time a symbolic return to our roots. This is because the fourth store was opened in December right where back in 1979 the first Jack&Jack was opened, in via Dala Gesa, a street with several boutiques and prestigious brands. It is called Jack&Jack B-Lab, and it is our premium store. The fifth retail store is called Jack&Jack Isoladue, and it stems from the solid legacy of the historic store located in via Isola, just a few meters away. It is a dynamic, captivating space whic invites to be explored, goes well with our continuous research on the most innovative and trendy brands and is dedicated to two important brands: K-way and Tommy Hilfiger.

What are your next steps?

Innovation and research have always been the mainstays of Jack&Jack brand, so we will now focus on them. Starting with the choice of brands that invest in technology and ending with the inclusion of smarter hi-tech solutions, such as the digital shopping experience throug Google Glass, and with payments that can be made in stores with Bitcoin virtual currency.

Find the full interview on hubstyle.it

Exterior pictures of the Jack&Jack B-Lab store

THE TREND SETTING ANTI-ICON

A touch of preppy, a touch of goth and a high dose of existentialism. The result is a spooky college girl allure that dictates the most influential fashion trends on social media

Valeria Oneto

Dark and melancholy images, dusty books, school uniforms, vintage evening gowns. With her aesthetic between Dark Academia and gothic ballet, Wednesday Addams is the new trendsetter that adds to the teencollege atmosphere a dash of darkness and a sophistication with nostalgic accents. Even if for the young Addams’ armchrome is almost monochrome, her gothic doll outfits have inspired a lot of fashion designers. Prada FW 19 collection is a real tribute to the Addams Family, from striped t-shirts to dramatic lace midi skirts and long black braids. For this winter season Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior is certainly setting the trend with chaste but tight waisted gowns, while Simone Rocha surprises with Lolita chic outfits. Not to mention the many brands that continue to bring preppy style outfits on catwalks, from Tommy Hilfiger to Paul & Joe, Vivienne Westwood and Thom Browne.

But what is Dark Academia? The term “Academia” describes a group of aesthetics and social media subcultures inspired by British higher education and connected to learning in all its forms; over the years it developed into a fully-fledged lifestyle concept that romanticises bygone times. Dark academics love reading, writing or expressing themselves through art.

The origins of Dark Academia aesthetic seem to go back to 1992 with the publication of Donna Tartt’s novel The Secret History, that revolves about a brutal murder that ruptures a group of eccentric students at an elite university. It then spread into the pre-Instagram world via the blogging platform Tumblr around 2015, also thanks to the global phenomenon of Harry Potter, the little wizard with round glasses who taught to Millennials and Gen Z the esoteric appeal of dusty old tomes, British retro uniforms and Gothic Revival architecture. But the backbone of Dark Academia are movies like Dead Poets Society, Kill Your Darlings, Dorian Grey, Brideshead Revisited, but also contemporary TV series like the Spanish Elite, Sabrina or The Queen’s Gambit.

Perfectly fitted into this scenario, Wednesday is at the first place in the Top 10 of Netflix most popular series. The elder Addams child and her adventures full of mystery, dark humor and soft-horror twists have become beloved by all generations, from younger to

most nostalgic. Thanks to the performance of Jenna Ortega, the leading actress, to Colleen Atwood’s styling and Tim Burton’s impeccable direction, Wednesday quickly passed from démodé Halloween costume to trendsetting icon.

The dark heroine of the TV series wins on many fronts: she is a skilled sword-fighter, writes a novel, knows all the languages of the world and plays the cello. But, most importantly, she has a killer wardrobe and dances The Cramps “Goo Goo Muck” wearing a vintage Alaïa dress which has already become cult. As is often the case, the video was shared within TikTok but not with its original music, rather with Lady Gaga’s song Bloody Mary. The song has nearly 46 thousand reels on Instagram and 936 thousand on TikTok.

The heroine with her iconic braided hair has revived a new vision of Gothic: no longer associated, as in pop culture, with the sexy and mysterious figure of the femme fatale, but with a more understated allure inspired by the rigor of Prada and Simone Rocha.

The black dress with contrasting white collar, iconic of Wednesday Addams’ style, was already worn by Lisa Loring in the legendary TV series of the 1960s, and again by Christina Ricci in the 1991 movie, only to be reprised by Jenna Ortega in the Netflix spin-off, but in a delicate floral print. Under the school uniform, which recalls Thom Browne or Comme des Garçons outfits, in a reinvention of the Japanese fuku Wednesday wears a dark gray sweater with contrasting black shirt and tie. While the chunky lace-up shoes with maxi rubber block-patterned sole are the iconic Monolith by Prada.

The Monolith brushed leather lace-up shoes of Prada with maxi rubber sole inspired by college uniforms

From left, an image of Simone Rocha FW 22/23 collection. Jenna Ortega aka Wednesday in the Netflix series wears a vintage Alaïa dress. A British outfit from Paul & Joe Winter 22/23 fashion show

FASHION: 2022 IS BOOMING

Made-in-Italy fashion and accessories brands continue to grow thanks to co-branding projects, new product categories and new distribution strategies

Abooming 2022, smelling of determination and challenges fulfilled. Like those of the Made-in-Italy brands that every day aim for more ambitious goals, thanks to deluxe collaborations, new product categories and retail strategies that pay a nod to the USA and the United Arab Emirates. The VOS Group founded by Dario Pozzi in 2018 expects to close 2022 with more than 6 million euros of turnover, compared to 180,000 recorded in its first year of life. The goal for the following year is more ambitious: to achieve a turnover of more than 15 million euros, also thanks to an offer that has expanded with women’s collections, kids fashion, beachwear and numerous partnerships.

Determination, positivity and teamwork: these are the core values behind the success of VOS which can count on an expanded community including over 400,000 followers across Instagram, Facebook, Linkedin, TikTok, BeReal, YouTube, Telegram, Discord, WeChat, Spotify, Twitch and the gaming world for a total of 5 milion monthly reach. Today the group includes not only the brand Vision of Super but also Phobia Archive, Yes I am and No Pasa Nada, distributed in a thousand of stores. The online distribution is via direct e-commerce but the physical channel will continue to have a central role also in the next years. In fact, the group is already planning the first Vision of Super flagship stores

The new Golden Goose Forward Store in New York

Angelo Ruggeri

The iconic Autry Action People sneaker

Also The Attico keeps on growing at full speed and has recently launched its first collection of bags. “In our journey to expand and define The Attico world,” explain in unison the brand founders Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, “we thought it was time to add handbags. We know how complex and immediate is the relationship between a woman and the bag she carries. The function is important, of course, but so is the attitude, the occasion that each particular model suggests and encourages.” After the debut on Net-a-Porter and in the online shop of The Attico (that in 2018 sold 49% to the Archive fund controlled by Remo Ruffini’s family), the collection is available in 30 stores worldwide.

Also Autry Action People does not stop. The high-end sneaker brand closed its 2021 balance sheet last March, based on 15 months of operation, with a turnover of 30 million euros and an EBITDA of 9 million. The brand, bought and revived in 2019 by the entrepreneur Marco Doro together with Alberto Raengo and Gino Zarrelli, is part of the Fine Sun holding company (which is also the majority shareholder of Rosantica, 120% Lino, Dondup and Ghoud). Given the excellent results of sell-out, the brand is aiming for 100 million euros turnover in 2022 and 200 million in the following year.

Last but not least Golden Goose, which continues to shine thanks to its economic goals and, now, also thanks to Swarovski Creators Lab. The incubator platform

for original and limited-edition collectibles presents a new partnership with the Veneto-based footwear and clothing brand (which recently opened two new stores in New York and Dubai). The partnership combines crystal savoir-faire and traditional Italian craftsmanship. The limited-edition collection includes two new versions of the Golden Goose Super-Star sneaker transformed and lit up with Swarovski crystals. Along the shoes, there is also a skateboard with a riot of crystals inspired by the label’s flag. Strong growth of online sales and an outstanding performance in the Americas propelled Golden Goose’s 2021 revenues, which jumped 45% to 385.6 million euros, representing a 46% improvement versus 2019. According to the latest estimates, 2022 is expected to shine too. Just like the new sneakers.

Sources: Gruppo VOS, The Attico, Autry Action People, Golden Goose

From left: the Moose Knuckles X VOS collection and The Attico - Sant Ambroeus collection

2022 FASHION WRAPPED

Birkenstock, Diesel, Miu Miu and Prada are some of the brands that have characterized the fashion scene in 2022. Bella Hadid is the most powerful dresser

Sara Fumagallo

Another year has flown by. There are those who look ahead and write the 12 New Year’s resolutions and the nostalgic ones who stay in the past listening, for example, to their Spotify Wrapped or creating video recaps on Instagram and TikTok. We “fashion people” prefer to write down the trends that have characterized 2022: a kind of scrapbook to relive together the last 365 days. As usual, the online fashion search engine Lyst has analyzed online shopping patterns of the people that in 2022 browsed, discovered and/or bought items through its site. Here are some trends and trendsetters that have dictated fashion during these past 12 months.

A YEAR TO REMEMBER

2022 was the year of Miu Miu. The brand’s micro mini skirts, the Wander bag and the iconic satin ballet flats that have quickly become the most coveted product because they are worn by stars such as Sydney Sweeney, Bella Hadid, and Rosalía dominated fashion this year. And figures confirm this: searches for the label saw a 34% increase compared to last year. If the Prada Group brand has been crowned “Brand of the Year”, Diesel was awarded the “Best Logo of 2022” title. Worn by celebrities like Kylie Jenner, Dua Lipa, and Rihanna the Italian multinational company has repositioned itself as an “alternative luxury” brand; in April it became one of the hottest fashion’s brands of the year, and in June the 1DR bag saw a 248% increase. Those who believed that the Birkenstock phenomenon would

not have a long life was mistaken. Its Boston clogs won the “shoe of the year” award with a 593% boost in searches in the first six months of 2022. Worn by Dua Lipa, Kendall Jenner, and Bella Hadid, Prada’s Re-nylon Re-edition 2000 is undoubtedly the bag of the year, with a 131% boost in searches in summer 2022. Nike x Jacquemus is the iconic collaboration that has marked the past few months. The 15-piece collection, available online at the end of June, sold out and crashed the site minutes after launch (searches increased by 2.575%). The Y2K mania which wants a throwback to 2000’s was one of the fashion trends that marked 2022, with the model Bella Hadid as its main inspiration. Lyst named her “most powerful dresser” of 2022 since all items she wore became viral; for example the UGG Classic Ultra Mini which saw a 152% boost in searches in only 24 hours, but also corset tops (+70%) and cargo pants (+56%). On average, all her outfits sparked 1,900% increase in searches for similar garments.

Bella Hadid walked in more than 35 fashion shows, including the memorable Coperni SS 23 show that won the gold medal as “top moment of the year”. The Paris brand, in partnership with Fabrican, painted (literally) a dress live onto the American supermodel with the innovative spray-on fabric technology invented by the Spanish scientist and fashion designer Manel Torres. The spray-on dress went viral on TikTok where it gained over one million video views. As a result, Coperni received a 3,000% increase in searches for the brand in the next few days.

Clockwise from left: Bella Hadid during the Coperni SS 23 show, Miu Miu’s ballet flats from FW 22/23 collection and the Birkens

Diesel’s 1DR bag, Prada Re-nylon Re-edition 2000, the promotion campaign for the Nike x Jacquemus collection

ITALIAN STYLE

Lorenzoni continua il suo cammino nella maglieria, tra ricerca stilistica e cura nella scelta di pregiate materie prime, ponendo attenzione ai mercati di riferimento e alla sensibilità

Valeria Oneto

Tradition, craftsmanship, quality and sustainability: those are the values on which Maglificio Liliana, a Brescia-based company of quality artisanal knitwear, has founded its success lasting for more than 50 years. Initially thanks to the work and the pioneering vision of Egidio and Liliana Lorenzoni, who then passed the helm to their chil dren Andrea, Elisa and Monica. Today the three brothers lead the family business with enthusiasm, modern skills and an open look at the world. Maglificio Liliana, which continues to be rewarded by turnover figures, steadily growing in percenta ge by about 20/30% per year both in Italy and abroad, has also two other brands: Montechiaro, high-end knitwear manufactu red with luxury yarns and 3D processing, and Impulso, a label with a sportive DNA that is inspired by the sea. The Lorenzoni collection, however, is characterized by luxury materials and evokes a contemporary and sophisticated taste. Knit items are made with high end natural yarns such as cashmere, silk and extrafine merino wool. All knitwear are strictly made in Italy and km 0, with a great attention to preserving the artisanal heritage of the territory. Sustainable development has become one of the main strategic focus of the Brescia-based company, with a series of initiatives for environment and society pre servation. In primis the research and the choice of renewable,

nell’innovazione sostenibile

Under: images from the new Lorenzoni FW 23/24 collection themed “Italian style”

Sweater with diamond pattern in cashmere with vintage treatment

recyclable, reusable and biodegradable yarns. It is also important to emphasize that the production and logistics hub is entirely powered by renewable energy obtained through photovoltaic systems, with state-of-the-art machinery which works faster and with great energy savings.

RESEARCH KNITWEAR

For the FW 23/24 season Lorenzoni launches the theme of “Italian style.” A storytelling perfectly told by the collection’s photo campaign, shot in Italy and more precisely among the hills and the vineyards of Tuscany. Respect for the environment and for nature, valorisation of craftsmanship and a conscious and essential attitude towards dressing: these are the concepts at the basis of the collection signed by the Brescia-based brand. The richness of this heritage is reflected in a collection that puts at the centre the high end quality of yarns, all selected from the most exclusive Italian spinning mills. The materials chosen for the garments are the result of a continuous and careful research. Eco cashmere made from recycled fibres, and the finest blends of cashmere and silk, or wool and cashmere, are interpreted through complex processing, designed to enhance their characteristics. Like the “vanisé” effects which give depth to the base of the item, or the elaborate braids with three-dimensional effects which give movement to the surface of the most basic pullovers. Or else, among the used techniques we find the special dyeing process giving to cable-knit and ribbed sweaters a unique vintage feel. The dropped knit, seamless, crater-neck sweater is a soft and seductive item dyed in a sophisticated lilac shade, a trendy colour that tells a new story, with an eclectic and transversal fit, looking to the future.

Above: images from the FW23/24 collection

Sweather with braid pattern in cashmere with vintage treatment

CULTURE, RESEARCH AND INCLUSIVITY

Martine Rose and Jan-Jan Van Essche: the stylist of Anglo-Jamaican origin and the Antwerp designer are respectively guest designer and Designer Project for edition 103 of Pitti

Stefano Guerrini

Martine Rose and Jan-Jan Van Essche: the stylist of Anglo-Jamaican origin and the Antwerp designer are respectively guest designer and Designer Project for edition 103 of Pitti. It is common knowledge that Pitti is an important international event, and also that over the years it has managed to bring to Florence, along with global press and buyers, not only brands of formal and elegant men’s fashion, of sportswear and streetwear, but also emerging phenomena and designers with a unique path. Just think at the iconic exhibition with the controversial installation by Rick Owens at Stazione Leopolda, or at Raf Simons fashion show in the Boboli Gardens. In many cases the capital of Tuscany has been the perfect setting for important anniversaries or for the consecration of avant-garde names that later became true fashion he-

roes. At each season there is a renewed anticipation for those who will be the new guest designers and for how they will present their collections during the renowned exhibition. For the 103rd edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, the guest designer who will present a preview of the FallWinter 23/24 collection will be Martine Rose. From a capsule collection of shirts premièred in London in 2007, the stylist of Anglo-Jamaican origin created an internationally acclaimed, critically acclaimed brand, praised by top names, Vogue America in the lead, but also sold in some of the most prestigious global stockists including Antonioli, 10 Corso Como Seoul, the famous Dover Street Market and SSENSE. What immediately struck from the designer, who left from London to conquer the world, is her natural and innate ability to mix in her collections a clear sense of roots and belonging, with a strong emotional and intimate component. She also manages to

THE EXCELLENCE OF MADE IN ITALY MEETS MARTIN ROSE AT PITTI 103

Thanks to the Cuoio di Toscana Prize initiative, the consortium – seven tanneries operating around San Miniato and Santa Croce sull’Arno in the province of Pisa that adopt environmental sustainability policies –continues providing support to emerging talents. This time it picked the British stylist Martine Rose, guest designer at Pitti Immagine, who will create a capsule collection of footwear with the iconic green sole, a manifesto of the consortium’s sustainable values and synonymous of Made in Italy excellence in the world.

Sporty suggestions in Martin Rose SS23 collection presented in London

Space for denim in Martin Rose SS23 collection

bring into her clothes a relevant cultural depth and reflection on social issues which make her interesting in the current creative scene.

At the same time she is one of those phenomena that can capture the current zeitgeist, that spirit of the times which is necessary to an artistic scene, not only to fashion, which sometimes seems extremely static and too much tied to commercial interests. Famously her shows have been held in unusual spaces such as the covered markets of Tottenham, a neighbourhood cul-de-sac in Camden and under the arches in Vauxhall, very close to the LGBTQIA+ community, making clear the connection with her Jamaican-British roots and with the multicultural diversity of the creative scene of the British capital, always creating a lot of “buzz,” as they say in the UK. Not surprisingly, in the front row at her latest fashion show for spring 2023 there was also Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton. This explains the great curiosity around what is going to be one of the most interesting events of the four fashion days in Florence. A lot of interest is also aroused by the presence in Florence of Jan-Jan Van Essche, Designer Project of this edition with a one-of-akind unique event, scheduled on Wednesday, January 11th. Born in Antwerp, where he graduated at the famous Royal Academy of Fine Arts and where he launched his eponymous label in June 2010, Van Essche creates clothes that see no boundaries, no limitations, no exclusions. He is one of those designers who, with a natural and reserved approach, succeeds in developing, each time, new insights on contemporary yet effortless and genderless elegance where distinctions seem to be banished altogether. With every series of garments, traditional patterns from different ethno-cultural origins are reinterpreted in the designer’s personal style between poetry and simplicity. Jan-Jan Van Essche works are never focused on trends and always characterized by a comfortable style. “This will be our first show ever, so it’s going to be a special event for us in any case. To be able to hold this first show in the unique atmosphere of the city of Florence makes it extra special, something I could have only dreamed of,” said Van Essche. A statement that confirms once more how Pitti is the ideal setting for premieres and unique fashion moments. And if the one who says so is a reserved yet emblematic figure like Jan-Jan Van Essche, who has accustomed us to fluidity and inclusion in his works, we can expect something really important.

Left: a Wannes Cré portrait of Jan-Jan Van Essche Under: ethnic contaminations and fluidity also in terms of age in the minimal-chic style of the designer’s Zeal collection for SS 23

EVIDENCE OF A JOURNEY

WEAR YOUR VALUES

Between “Made in Italy” craftmanship and sustainability, HandPicked strengthens its identity in luxury sportswear, proposing its idea of urban total look also for FW 23

Valeria Oneto

Tailored, timeless, and sustainable. These three elements describe very well the philosophy of HandPicked, the Adriabased company born from the knowhow of Giada S.p.A., that has been a leader in the production of luxury denim and in manufacturing expertise for over 30 years.

Always characterized by its attention to Made in Italy tailoring, it is no coincidence that its production chain ranges from north to south, drawing on the best tailoring facilities available in the country. HandPicked FW 23/24 collection features a line of contemporary clothes that are both sophisticated and casual, with a perfect fit, designed to go beyond seasonal fashions and to last over time.

We have interviewed Franco Catania, CEO of the brand.

Can you describe HandPicked with three adjectives?

Tailored: denim becomes a work of haute couture in which nothing is left to chance. Timeless: every garment is designed to go beyond seasonal fashions, to guarantee comfort and reliability that allow you to build a lasting connection with your garment. Sustainable: an adjective that for HandPicked takes on a wide meaning: we are not only talking about respect for the environment, thanks to low-impact materials and washing, but also for the workers and the territory.

What are the new items of the collection you will present at Pitti 103?

The HandPicked collection was born as a luxury denim brand. Today we want to express our creativity in items different from our iconic 5 pockets. With the new proposal we strengthen the identity of “trousers” through stylistic choices like large and modern volumes, belt constructions and interiors absolutely contemporary and elegant.

The FW 23/24 is a total look collection, why this choice? Because we want to make it fully clear who is the HandPicked man, convey his taste and style. Expanding our range of products we can also strengthen our retail presence. The experience of our flagship store in Taormina is very encouraging.

Can you make a portrait of the HandPicked man?

Our ideal customer is a contemporary, refined man who appreciates fine things and endless attention to detail.

Today what is your brand positioning?

HandPicked is sold in premium boutiques, along with the top brands of the high-end segment.

What are the stylistic dictates that make your garments special?

A meticulous attention to details and fits.

Each model in the collection is named after an art city. Why this singular choice?

We enhanced each of our garments by matching it to a place, where the mind can take you every time you wear it, to fix it in the

memory. An endless sensory journey, as well as a territorial identification that strengthens the concept of Made in Italy.

How much value do you place in being Made in Italy?

Our trousers are entirely made in Italy, in facilities with over 40 years expertise. This allows us to make garments with unique finishes that cannot be reproduced in other areas of the world. For HandPicked only exclusivity, our customers deserve only the best.

In terms of turnover, how did 2022 end and which are the forecast for 2023?

2022 was a very positive year for the brand, with over 50% growth in sales with respect to 2021, and a strong foreign traction. For 2023, we expect a further increase in sales thanks to the expansion of the collection and a significant grow of store numbers. Besides, in 2023 the Court of Milan will decide about the ownership of the Jacob Cohen trademark. If, as we hope, the decision is favourable to Giada, we might return to pre-Covid turnovers.

What are your strategies for the future?

We will certainly focus on the product, always paying great attention to sustainability and quality of service offered to our customers.

Above: denim jacket

Under: five-pocket trousers with two different washes from the FW 23/24 collection

A-TYPICAL CASUALIZATION

ATPCO contemporary collection is a journey down the “Boot” depicting the most beautiful Italian towns through the details and colours of beautiful, unconventional garments

The FW 23/24 collection of the Brescia-based fashion label, which is part of the Golden Season Group, focuses on the concept of Italianity. In fact, the ATPCO collections for the next cold season are inspired by the colours and the elegant and well-defined stylistic identity of the “Bel Paese.” The purpose is to “casualize,” i.e. make casual, the typicality of Italian clothing, characterized by the tradition of fine dressing and good taste, enriching it with contemporary codes, dictated both by shapes and new fits, more relaxed and with references to 90s, as well as by the choice of classic or tech fabrics. Peculiar the choice of colours in the total look collection: the combinations are bold, but they also play perfectly with tone-on-tone palettes. In any case, all colours are typical of Italian landscapes and traditions. And they create kaleidoscopic effects, essential to the collection’s eye-catching look.

ITALIAN SPIRIT

The ATPCO FW 23/24 collection is a real journey down the “Boot” depicting the most beautiful Italian towns through de -

tails and colours. Tech inspiration for the looks dedicated to Milan, with functional outerwear in stretch nylon, eco-poly and eco down in urban nuances. Beige, ice, gray, cream, and soft military tones are inspired instead by the marbles of Carrara, with a predominance of garments such as jersey down jackets, sweatshirts, varsity and jackets. But the heart of the collection recalls the hues of the streets of Venice, Florence and Palermo in the 90s. Here the colorful soul of ATPCO finds its full expression, declining its style on trousers with pleats, worn under over corduroys and moleskins in burnt tones. The mouliné knitwear is characterized by green tones, dye washing and oxidized colours, fade and stone. The blazers, made of sienna stretch moleskin, are called Roger, and feature spear lapels, while the double-breasted blazer, Svevo, is in greenish pebble-dyed velvet, with the obligatory matching trousers. Velvets, moleskins and wools embellish outerwear: from overshirts to parkas, from duffle coats to coats. And finally, completing the collection, there are the super colourful puffy down jackets.

Left: 90s references for the yellow down jacket, with contrasting details Centre: the jackets in striped velvet and tweed with peaked lapels from the FW 23/24 collection

Right: play of overlays for the look in earth tones, where the star is the double fabric coat

A MORE RESPONSIBLE JOURNEY

Also for FW 23, Satorisan products embody four essential values: comfort, quality, singularity and affordability. An essential design for shoes with an artisanal soul

Helping everyone to walk consciously, with footwear that are good for the people and good for the planet. Designing and crafting shoes that are comfortable, with a fit and finish that only get better with age. Living well with less, according to the philosophy “Less is more”. In this way Satorisan develops inclusive, simple, comfortable, versatile and practical products that have ample room in our collections. Like the winter 2023 collection, which pays special attention to the culture of care and idealizes a world that privileges community over individual expertise. The result is a product with a minimal and essential design that focuses on craftsmanship, longevity, and efficient use of resources.

PRODUCTS WITH A GREEN SOUL

The collection for next winter sees the introduction of new models such as the Earth Boot, born from the fusion of the elements fire and wood. The shoe incorporates the features of two types of footwear: the classic moccasins used by sailors in the 50s and the “adventure” boots with mountain soles and padded ankle protection. The suede crust lining provides high warmth and a pleasant feel to the foot. “We believe that the universe works better with Metta”, so for the FW 23 collection the model is re-proposed with a fresh touch. Another new entry of the season, named Chacrona Metta Eucalyptus. The result is a sneaker that guarantees “comfort and love at every step” also thanks to the use of noble, natural, beautiful, and imperfect materials with a worn look.

Over: The Chacrona Metta Premium Eucalyptus model and, under, the Earth Boot Premium Polo Brown model. Side: sole of the Earth Boot shoe

MODERN RENDITION

Heritage and craftsmanship for over two centuries. Astorflex looks at the present and the future never forgetting the past and its roots

Astorflex’ traditional craftmanship is a pride of Made in Italy. Carrying on with commitment and passion an extraordinary artisan footwear production since 1820, the brand pays great attention to the materials used with the utmost respect for the environment and the well-being of the foot. Vegetable-tanned leathers, natural crepe, hard leather are the basic elements that characterize a collection based on the heritage of models born and developed during the 200-year history of the brand. Today Fabio Travenzoli, owner of Astorflex, carries on the peculiar tradition of the company following in the footsteps and teachings left by his father Alfredo, founder of the brand.

REVISITED ARCHIVE

For the new FW 23-24 collection the brand presents two models, Edroflex and Ozofle, taken from historical archives and returned for the first time to modernity with a new look.

Both models are made of an exclusive Nubuck leather, oiled and treated to be softer and more comfortable maintaining at the same time a very rustic and assertive look. The linings are in vegetable-tanned calf leather, making the footwear suited to every season thanks to its antibacterial, antifungal properties and great sweat absorption. Edroflex is a derby model featuring a multi-layered leather sole stitched using the Ideal method and a non-slip rubber tread, while Ozoflex is a sporty boot model mounted on a PARA (natural rubber) box sole and entirely handmade in the company’s workshop. The sole appears very comfortable and flexible, ideal to be worn all day, both outdoors and indoors, to freely experience in comfort every aspect of daily life. These models fit into the traditional collection of Astorflex, that in the course of the year has decided to enrich its offer with a series of items equipped with a rubber sole, more effective in the winter rain than the natural rubber sole present in most models.

Above: an archive image taken in the early years of the Astorflex history. A snapshot of Fabio Travenzoli, owner of the Astorflex brand

Left: a photo of the Edroflex model for the new FW 23-24 collection

Below: a photo of the Ozoflex model for the FW 23-24 collection

THE PASSION FOR EXPLORATION

Dolomite is the mountain lifestyle brand par excellence. Also for the coming 23/24 winter season it offers the best performing footwear and apparel with an enhanced attention towards sustainability

Dolomite has over a century of experience in designing, developing and manufacturing the best sports and mountain footwear. With a passion for the outdoors, Dolomite creates products with an unmistakable Italian design, in which quality and comfort blend with high performance. “The Great Outdoors” is the great theme that encompasses all Dolomite collections for FW 23/24, from the more technical solutions to the more lifestyle ones. A tribute to the mountains, and especially to the Dolomites, and to the joy of contact with nature, and respect for it. To preserve the environment for future generations Dolomite has established the Re-Source program, focusing on three key pillars: people, planet and product.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

A unique and authentic collection as the 54 Warm Wp, the footwear made by master shoemakers whose heritage and use of selected materials make the cold winter less harsh. Thanks to the combination of inner membranes (Primaloft Eco 100% recycled and GRS certified with waterproof membrane), maximum protection from the elements and warmth are ensured. Besides, the upper is made of oiled tumbled leather, sourced from Italian tanneries and certified Leather Working Group (LWG), and the Vibram Arctic Grip outsole guarantees excellent grip even on wet and icy surfaces. But the real novelty is the restyling of the women’s model to ensure ultimate wearing comfort. The two flagship garments, however, are the Latemar Wool Hood Jacket and the Fitzroy H M’s parka. The former is a casual and functional jacket that will be a real winter must-have also thanks to its essential design. Versatile and environmentally conscious, this jacket is made with a blend of wool and 100% recycled polyester to ensure warmth and protection in every situation. The conquest of Monte Fitz Roy in 1976 by an Italian expedition equipped with Dolomite boots inspired the Fitzroy collection and, consequently, the H M parka. Iconic and comfortable, thanks to its duck down padding it becomes the best of friends during the cold winter days.

Over: the Fitzroy H M’s parka Left: the Latemar Wool Hood Jacket Right: the 54 Warm Wp boots

KEEPING UP WITH THE TIMES

Born in Florence in 2011 from an intuition of brothers Andrea and Maurizio Ronchi, Ama-Brand is the responsible sneakers brand that combines craftsmanship with a passion for design

Since it was founded 12 years ago, Ama-Brand has immediately made a name in the Italian and then European footwear scene. Conceived by the creative minds of brothers Andrea and Maurizio Ronchi, the brand name has a very precise meaning: “Ama” are the initials of the two creative directors. It is a brand that combines a sport and casual style with a sartorial attitude to production thanks to the careful selection of fine materials, craftmanship and attention to detail.

Offering footwear made to last over time is one of the main targets of the Italian label, which both for style and quality is careful to make a timeless sneaker “keeping up with the times but out of time”. A concept that is perfectly tied with that of environmental sustainability: making a sneaker with a long life cycle it is possible to limit the waste in the production process. Besides, the brand takes great care of the selection and origin of raw materials and to protect the work of all the people involved.

A

SYNERGY MADE IN TUSCANY

Born from the partnership between Ama-Brand and Manifatture Il Faro, a spin-off of the historical Calzaturificio Quadrifoglio that produces elegant and sporty footwear for the luxury market, was born the new SUPERun sneaker, a tastefully vintage model with a new fashion-tech structure projected to the future. A fusion “between ancient suggestions and modern trends, between influences of shapes, lines from the past that join the present”, the model is entirely handmade in Italy, precisely in Tuscany, by skilled local shoemakers. The sole is the part that stands out the most. The tread is made of 100% recycled and recyclable material while the midsole is composed of a lightweight and flexible EVA compound. A mix of innovations and technologies that protects the environment.

Detailed pictures of Ama-Brand sneakers

CONTEMPORARY CHARM

Free spirit and positive environmental impact thanks to a solutions focused design. Bomboogie explores the versatility of outerwear in multiple facets

Nicola Sanniti

Adesign with a focus on environmental sustainability and a new desire to dress up are the elements at the heart of the FW 23/24 Bomboogie collection, the historic Italian brand specialised in design and production of outwear. A perfect mix of garments with fluid and essential lines, suitable to be worn casually to celebrate comfort and expression freedom. In this collection, women draw inspiration from the iconic men’s models and wear them with grace and sophistication, fulfilling the desire to be herself with pride and far from any form of prejudice. At the heart of the collection there are short and long outwear like parkas, trench coats, cabans and bomber jackets, sometimes matched with pleated skirts or asymmetrical dresses in knitted fabric and embellished with details and shades for a contemporary look. The collection also includes cargo trousers for a more casual outfit as well as chino styles that are perfect for leisure.

THE PERFECT BALANCE BETWEEN AESTHETICS AND FUNCTIONALITY

For a versatile collection constantly focused on innovation, fabrics with simple weaves and “weatherproof” finishes ensure water-repellent, breathable, quick-drying and windproof garments with an appealing and eye-catching aesthetic. Nylon and polyester give a shimmer to the down jackets, characterized by comfortable, circular and three-layered shapes and lines and made of recycled and recyclable materials, with great attention to environmental sustainability. The wide colours palettes celebrate autumn tones and are inspired by the minerals of the Earth, such as lithium, amber, crystal quartz, dark green agate, smoky onyx, amethyst, reflected in the multiple

“shining” fabrics, with a balance that brings out the cool tones in the wool worked materials.

We talked with Cristiano and Manuele Musso, Managing Directors of Space 2000 group, owner of Bomboogie.

What are the company’s strategies and evolutions?

Verticalization: through the opening of stores. Verona is the first step in a strategy that will involve northern Italy and Germany, our main foreign market, both directly and in partnership. Omnichannel: hence the investment in autostore inaugurated in these days. It is an ultra-high density sub-system that transforms unused, or inefficiently used, space into a super-compact storage. This makes possible to multiply the available cubic meters to store products without having to expand or relocate in another building. Products contained in special tanks are moved via remote controlled robots. This system brings obvious advantages in terms of timing for the disposal of orders, as well as, as mentioned above, in terms of efficiency of space.

Has there been any change in delivery times?

Thanks to our long experience in managing the global supply chain we were able to avoid delays in delivery times, and our reliability brought a market growth, especially on international markets.

How do you see Space 2000 in 10 years time?

As a multichannel reality interconnected with its consumers, with whom we share and will share more and more moments and emotions, thanks to the expansion of our online and onthe-ground presence.

Models from the Bomboogie FW 23/24 collection for Women and Men

THE HIGH-PERFORMANCE MEMBRANE

For the Geyser travel sneaker the Barcelona-based brand Tropicfeel chooses HDry, the waterproof and breathable fabric technology of mountaineering records

HDry is a well known technology in the world of outdoor and super-technical mountaineering footwear. It has been chosen by Scarpa for the award-winning Ribelle models and integrated into the high-altitude Phantom boot, used by the Nepalese climber Nimsdai Purja to smash the record for climbing all the 14 world’s 8,000-meter-high mountains in less than seven months and to complete the first winter ascent of K2 in 2021.

The uniqueness of HDry technology compared to traditional membranes for shoes lies in the specific 3D direct lamination process of the lamination, which is the ‘micro-point’ adhesion of the membrane to the inner side of the upper. Hooks and hinges are used, assembled and sewn. By now it is estimated that nearly one million technical footwear are equipped each year with HDry, and now also the sneaker world is intrigued by it.

“It is not so surprise that this technology is highly valued even for products where stylistic research is a priority. HDry not only offers very high performance, but it has a more refined approach in terms of construction, and does not interfere with the design of the product. The few micron thickness of the HDry membrane are fused with the upper and then hidden by the

lining, whose material can thus be chosen freely, e.g. also wool or leather. This is a great advantage because it makes footwear waterproof and breathable in a completely unobtrusive way. To use a metaphor, it is a bit like four-wheel drive on a luxury car: you don’t see it and, in the city, you tend to forget it, but when you arrive in the mountains on the snow you are very happy to have it,” says Matteo Morlacchi. It was precisely because of this functional extension that the Barcelona brand Tropicfeel chose the HDry technology for its Geyser travel sneaker. The upper stretch laminated with HDry membrane is combined with a merino wool lining to maximize breathability and warmth. Tropicfeel, which sells its products on crowdfunding platform to minimize stocks of materials and finished products, pays great attention to the sustainability of its products, and for this reason it chose the b5 (biobased) version of the membrane, which, however, is ptfe-free, pfcs-free and OEKO-TEX certified in all available options. Today at the helm of the company that owns HDry, Altexa, there is Matteo Morlacchi, an engineer with a long experience in technical and protective fabrics for sport sector, who created and developed the Loro Piana “Storm System” product line and was one of the founders of Outdry, then sold to American Columbia.

Some photos of the Tropicfeel footwear with HDry tecnology

MADE IN FRANCE QUALITY

A century-long history that began in 1908, when Rémy Richard came up with the idea to create his first shoes. So was born Paraboot, the brand of footwear still producing at Saint Jean de Moirans

In 2023 Paraboot will celebrate 115 years of activity. It will be the celebration of extraordinary industrial and commercial adventures, as well as of the spirit of initiative, commitment and talent of the Richard family. With 140 employees and one production plants in a Saint Jean de Moirans, near Grenoble, the brand is one of the leading manufacturers of footwear in France and, thanks to its timeless elegance for both men and women, over the years it has become an emblem of “traditional quality shoes”. For Parabott every detail is important: selection of leather, lining, rubber or leather interlayers, cork lining Everything is the result of a careful research to create the perfect product. Paraboot shoes have a strong DNA thanks to flexibility, strength, insulation, comfort and hygiene combined with the quality of materials used and fabrication processes. They are high-end footwear designed for comfort, following the trends of the moment yet made with the same manufacturing methods of the past.

In fact, Paraboot shoes are still made from the best European leathers (80% of French origin), tanned the old-fashioned way and assembled with “Norwegian stitching,” a technique which was used in the past to make waterproof mountain boots highly durable and comfortable and has always been practiced by Paraboot workers. Paraboot footwear are distributed in France and Belgium in more than 30 flagship boutiques, and worldwide through a network of retailers.

Some photos of Paraboot shoes

ANYWHERE IS WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE

THE FINE ART OF DRESSING

A distinctive and sophisticated style that makes of mix&match its strength, combining with elegance the Italian sartorial tradition. These are the trends of the most important brands for the next cold season, where contemporary garments are also ethically responsible

SIXTIES ERA

Cruna Fall-Winter 23/24 collection is characterized by 60s atmospheres typical of jazz clubs. A selection of menswear among class, sophistication, relaxation and lightness, where looks take on a contemporary, urban and cosmopolitan feel. From outerwear to superior knitwear, the sophysticated pastel palette and shapes are extremely relaxed.

MIXED APPEAL

For the cold season, AlphaTauri presents a collection inspired by the contrast between traditional rural structures and the futuristic approach typical of modern architecture and contemporary buildings. Fabrics and natural fibers such as wool, cashmere and tencel permeate the various categories of products, like outerwear declined in their multiple versions.

COLORFUL SEASON

For the new Fall/Winter 23/24, ANT45 his focusing on some particular types of products, among which stand out a ribbed over the knee derby sock made of 100 percent natural organic cotton and soft merino wool yarn, in a mix of variegated colors inspired by the 80s.

TIMELESS DESIGN

Among the FW 23 previews, Il Bisonte presents for the Cestello Line a one strap backpack in vintage cowhide leather, with fabric ribbons and lined in cotton canvas linings. The products of the collection are available in the traditional black, coffee and in the new “forest” colorway.

A TAILORMADE VOCATION

An innate taste and an obsessive attention to design. Tagliatore ’s is a family history, a company which has been making items of clothing with tailormade details for 50 years. The brand revamps its models by reading the present through its own language. The new collection is thus increasingly attentive to stylistic codes and handmade of men’s fashion, which follow the times and the needs of the modern man.

CONTEMPORARY OUTERWEAR

For next winter, Paoloni Italian tailoring tradition and innovative design focus on outerwear declined in various versions. Standouts are single-breasted coats in wool/cashmere with removable cordura hood and single-breasted English ribbed knit jackets in autumn-inspired hues, from shades of brown to blueS.

MULTIPLE STYLE

The contemporary comfort of 070 Studio presents a collection looking like an hybrid between country and urban style with increasingly blurred contours and evident tactile sensations. Focus is on outerwear, from duffel coats to city parkas and multiple types of reversible model.

BRITISH TOUCH

The new Manuel Ritz FW 23 collection is a combination of sartorial and streetwear universe. The British aesthetic is the main inspiration for a selection of outerwear with modern cut and classic style, a perfect mix of heritage and modernity.

CHROMATIC IMPETUS

For its FW 23/24 collection RED celebrates the perfect combination of colour and elegance, where socks become the backdrop for bright pairings overturning the classic aesthetic canons. 3D jacquard pattern in three colours best represents the savoir-faire of the brand.

THE WATERFRONT

Inspired by the atmospheres of New Jersey, the new FW 23 by Paul&Shark features the raw wool jacket with tartan plaid pattern in shades of orange and dark blue and eco shearling collar that echoes the iconic aviator jackets of that era.

ITALIAN CRAFTMANSHIP

Alessandro Gherardi ’s FW 23/24 collection is a perfect blend of classic tailoring, a feature that has always characterized the brand whose philosophy is based on a balance between tradition, thanks to handcraft, and innovation, with the use of high technology machinery.

MIXED FOOTWEAR

For the next FW 23 season Amedeo Testoni luxury footwear and leather goods brand of exceptional craftsmanship, proposes an ankle boot in smooth shaded calfskin, with a chunky but at the same time ultralightweight sole: a product that draws inspiration from the outdoor universe, ideal for a versatile and contemporary look.

COMMON GOODS

Dynamo The Good Company presents a winter collection characterized by elegant and timeless garments, with a minimal and refined design. A celebration of elegance and versatility perfect to be worn every day in the name of comfort and quality.

TRAVELLERS OF THE WORLD

Italian style, attention to details, careful study of trends. These are the words defining Freedomday, the Italian brand of outerwear inspired by the theme of travel. The brand takes its cue from an on-thego lifestyle and modern requirements for outdoor style and functionality. The down jackets are designed for “Travellers of the world” with an active lifestyle both in the city and in nature, and love contemporary design with smart details.

FLUID ALTERNATIVE

Blauer collection for the next FW 2023 season is enriched by the gender fluid capsule B.TACTICAL which draws inspiration from military heritage and U.S. Army uniforms. The various models range from the iconic MA1 bomber jacket to field jackets, anoraks and overshirts, all declined in cool shades, from air force blue to gray and white.

URBAN OUTDOOR

Filson , the American brand of outdoor clothing and accessories renowned for their quality and durability, distributed in Italy by WP Lavori in Corso, presents its winter collection of outdoor garments, outerwear and accessories.

OUTDOOR STYLE

Roy Roger’s FW 23/24 garments rediscover the outdoors style of the 70s and 80s Portland with the “Denim Touch for Outdoor Life” capsule collection, consisting of 20 pieces with a vintage DNA and a shoe born from a collaboration with the brand Haani. The garments, modern in taste, have a distinct vintage look. The water-repellent denim is used in down jackets and garments, emphasizing their high performing technical features.

CAPSULE COLLECTION

Valsport presents the Ollie model, interpreting the concept of time through the vulcanization process, a method discovered in 1920 from the intuition of a craftsman who created some moulds with rubber tires. The sole in natural rubber mixed with calcium carbonate is compressed with old “vulcanizing” presses on an aluminium mold and vulcanized in 22 minutes at a temperature of 140°.

WINTER VIBES

In its innovative collection for winter 23/24, Berwich presents contemporary reinterpretations of its iconic models. Like the gritty Jogger Spiaggia Skìpàs, with regular and extremely comfortable fit, made of a pleasant viscose blend material that reminds of wool. Particular are the black rubberized details of zip, buttons and drawstring.

FREE SPIRIT

A symbol of creativity and reliability, the Panchic collections offer a product suitable for those who wants to be without appearing. Like the ankle boots P03, a line with a technocool taste ideal for globe-trotters, with military green rubberized fabric upper, contrasting wool lining, matching waxed laces, and sole with a two-tone shell design.

BREAK THE MOLD

Nobis new FW 23 collection is focused on nature, explored through the concepts of modularity, layering and multifunctionality. It features high-performance outdoor garments and technical accessories designed to guarantee protection in every moment and wth different temperatures.

PRACTICAL BACKPACK

For its FW 23/24 collection Ciak Roncato presents a backpack from the Rolltop collection born from a partnership with the Italian Army. Made of nylon fabric with camouflage pattern, it features a top and vertical opening for quick access, a zip side pocket and a water bottle pocket, removable side mini bag with shoulder strap, laptop and tablet holder in the back.

ESSENTIAL KEY

The Conte of Florence collection for the winter season combines the brand’s heritage with a contemporary vision, both urban and outdoor. An idea of “sporty elegance” developed through lightweight but high-performance materials. A standout piece is the quilted field jacket made of poly-soft fabric, with contrasting lining and Sorona bio padding.

COMFORTABLE FREEDOM

The centerpiece of People ’s new collection is definitely the quality of the fabrics, between clean and sophisticated lines, that make each garment a must-have designed to meet the needs of every traveller. The particularly sophisticated chromatic path draws inspiration from the colours of Northern Lights. The fit, always cool and creative, ensures comfort and freedom of movement.

ENVELOPING SENSATION

For the FW 23/24 season Duno evokes the rarefied atmospheres of Northern Europe from a chromatic and symbolic point of view. Outerwear and iconic models are updated in terms of style, fabrics, performance and state-of-theart treatments, always with a great attention to the planet safeguard, in which innovation and sustainability meet in harmony.

KIND OF MOBILITY

Momodesign offer for the winter season includes a lifestyle collection of clothing focused on modern and innovative solutions connected to urban mobility and the excellence of made in Italy. A standout piece is the silk-touch stretch nylon jacket with high-performance water repellent treatment.

SEASONAL CLASSICS

Giannetto Portofino FW 23 collection colours with autumn hues offering different types of shirts in terms of colours and fabrics, that range from cotton denim, tencel to velvet. Versatile garments declined in different shades of palettes and patterns, with Australian mother-ofpearl buttons.

HISTORY, EXPERIMENTATION AND UNIQUENESS

Tela Genova ’s garments are unique and authentic in their experimentation, continuous research and traditional craftmanship. Structure and substance are the words defining the FW 23/24 collection, which uses natural fibers such as wool, cotton and linen that, expertly processed, create unique and distinctive fabrics and textures.

CONNECTED WITH NATURE

Premium suede upper and WR26 technical outsole with Wave technology for the Mizuno casual outdoor shoe. The entire FW 23 collection is inspired by the desire to discover and connect with nature, which is also expressed in the earth tones color palette.

AMERICAN ROOTS

Inspired by Colorado, the Holubar FW23 collection draws inspiration from the past but looks to the future through innovative style cues and a selection of modern materials, expertly combined with authentic design and a classic color palette that pays homage to Boulder’s fall landscape. The collection includes a reinterpretation of the brand’s iconic outerwear, fleeces, sweaters and overshirts, as well as a line of accessories.

ONE OF A KIND

The FW 23/24 collection expresses the pure essence of Avant Toi: art. Each garment is “one of a kind,” designed and masterly transformed into a real work of art telling its own story, authentic and innovative. The brand draws inspiration from the British tradition, deconstructing it and renewing its appeal with a look to the future.

URBAN PERFORMANCE

For the upcoming cold season Colmar presents a footwear with a hiking soul, declined in the colors of brown, ochre and desaturated blue, designed to be worn even in the most extreme weather conditions. Starting from the Vibram sole, the shoe features a mix & match of materials: nylon, nubuck and smooth matte microfiber.

CASUAL KNITWEAR

The new Cruciani FW 23 collection proposes a new idea of knitwear between modernity and tradition. The evolution of the white wool and cashmere round neck sweater worn under the mouliné jacket is well suited to an urban, comfortable and apparently casual look.

ESSENTIAL LOOK

For its FW 23/24 collection Piacenza 1733 reinterprets its heritage by reconnecting with nature in harmony with a luxury characterized by sophisticated warmth and comfort. The collection features cashmere, merino wool and geelong wool sweaters with a loose fit and modern feel, in a rich blend of colours ranging from earthy, dark tones to brilliant accents.

FEEL THE LIGHT

Filippo De Laurentiis , whose mission is reinventing knitwear state of mind, presents a collection that captures the essence of different but complementary moments in life. Attention to details and sensibility generate a selection of garments where cashmere is the star.

PURE SENSATION

The FW 23/24 collection of FLY3 , a brand of high-end nautical-inspired knitwear, revisits some historical models declined in new materials and treatments. “Le Naturali” is a new line made of natural yarns such as cashmere, wool and blends. Among the items stand out are plain roundneck sweaters in 100% cashmere, with a comfort fit and a versatile style.

EVERYDAY LIFE

Sun68 FW 23/24 collection has a strong casualwear transversal feel, with a particular attention to details and research in materials. The collection includes polo shirts, T-shirts, shirts, sweatshirts and trousers. The “vintage” section combines preppy and college looks with graphics inspired by the uniforms of US universities.

ITALIAN CRAFTMANSHIP

Boglioli ’s FW23 collection is a mix of tradition and innovation, two words that have always summarized the spirit of the brand. Combining the highest tailoring skills and top quality materials, classic models like this cashmere turtleneck sweater are re-interpreted in a creative way.

FLOWING LINES

Matéma, the brand that defines a new interpretation of the yarn, versatile and sustainable, which evolves into a comfortable and gender fluid total look, for the FW 23/24 collection resumes some proposals from the past season, including the universe of cashmere expanded in the variety of patterns: from turtleneck gilets to

NEW CHAPTER

The FW 23/24 collection of Pence 1979 , reference brand for the denim universe, is an ode to travel and relaxation, designed for lovers of movement and coolness. The garments are made of soft materials to encourage movement and comfort in every moment.

CONTEMPORARY VIEW

Ixos evolves its identity for the winter season through the special project Ixos X, which puts XD sneakers at its centre. These particular footwear in “vitamin” shades, with the logo echoing some references from pop-art, are inspired by the 90s and 00s Los Angeles streetwear and urban culture.

HIGH QUALITY

Teleria Zed FW23 collection introduces a capsule into the denim line. The selection of garments celebrates the luxury allure concealed behind a casual jean, which becomes elegant through the use of special materials and is enhanced by precious and refined accessories.

TRANSVERSAL FIT

Cycle Jeans FW 23/24 collection is increasingly proclaiming its total denim vocation, with a particular attention to fits ranging from skinny models to more regular and wider ones with wide bottoms that give the garments a high-end vintage look. As always, treatments and washing are the true expressive force of the brand.

SKATER MOOD

The FW 23 of PT Torino, a fluid and innovative brand celebrating the expertise of Italian traditional craftsmanship, opts for a development of denim that goes in the direction of an evolved and fashionoriented design, characterized by soft and wider volumes, straight hips and dropped crotch. The denim garments are also available in marbled cotton.

UNIQUE DYNAMISM

The sneaker brand Wushu Ruyi presents its new “special edition” including the One model available in eleven different colours. A sporty running shoe with embossed RU-YU logo embroidered on the upper and 5 cm plateau to guarantee absolute comfort..

SHADES OF BLUE

For the FW 23 season, Jeckerson explores the many facets of the denim universe. Among the most interesting models stands out a regular fit fivepockets jeans in rinse washed denim which is perfect for any occasion and adapts to create more or less formal looks.

FINE MATERIALS

For Fall-Winter 23/24 Husky Original expands its offer with its first collection of made in Italy knitwear in fine merino wool. Centrepiece is a revamped version of the iconic quilted jacket Husky Original that guarantees an increased performance thanks to the Thermore padding and the nylon-cotton check patterned inside.

RESPONSIBLE MASCOTTE

For the new FW 23 collection In the Box , a brand of socks and apparel collections made in Milan and container of creativity in constant evolution, introduces Mr. Box, the embroidered teddy bear dressed with recycled fabrics derived from second-hand garments, perfectly in

IMPACT OF THE SEA

For this collection Ecoalf is committed to use monomaterials, so that the garments can be easily recycled at the end of their life cycle. The outerwear mix their signature Ocean Yarn spun with recycled plastic collected from the bottom of the sea with 100% recycled post-industrial polyester, and are enhanced with padding and linings to ensure maximum performance.

DYNAMIC CHARACTER

Impulso new collection is inspired by nature and by the sea, through the use of multiple materials and a deep palette of colours ranging from classic white to different shades of blue. Centrepiece of the collection is knitwear, from classic ribbed pullovers with water repellent Teflon treatment to Thermocomfort garments made with a special technique that allows you to have pure cotton on the skin and a wool blend on the outside.

NEW ENTRIES

For the new collection Gavazzeni confirms its versatility with its wide selection of belts. Classic leather belts are joined by new tumbled or saffiano leather ones, soft and hammered, along with different materials. Relevant is the introduction of the reversible buckle through which you can have two belts in one made of different leathers.

METROPOLITAN TECHNICITY

Inspired by an active, urban man who wants to wear unique, comfortable but high-performing garments, Armata di Mare FW 23/24 collection brings a new twist to men’s wardrobe introducing materials, shapes and colours that recall the city skyline.

VINTAGE LOOK

A tribute to the underground world that celebrates the iconic 80s. This is the spirit of the new Monoway collection. At its core is “Bango,” a sneaker with a more sophisticated look made of soft nappa leather and split inserts, white leather and coloured leather details.

IS

THERE

STILL ROOM FOR COLLABORATIONS BETWEEN FASHION AND SNEAKERS?

Over the years projects combining fashion and sportswear have changed a lot, but are consumers still interested?

Marco Rizzi

The combination of fashion and sneakers has undoubtedly dominated the last decade, influencing trends and fashions in every sphere. The apparent declining interest in the last few months in models created by top fashion houses has led many to wonder whether there is still room for sneakers in fashion, making a due distinction between “native” models and collaborations between companies from different contexts. The most recent projects have shown how a new approach of “maisons” to sneakers, based on careful archival work and on the study of the socio-cultural contexts related to each model and its history in order to insert it coherently into the narration or the imagery conceived by fashion houses, without it being distorted or blatantly out of context. The great success of collabo projects such as Gucci x adidas Gazelle developed by Alessandro Michele or the collection Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 designed by Virgil Abloh are two perfect examples of this way of conceiving hi-fashion sneakers. The Gazelle fits perfectly in the opulent ‘70s aesthetic chosen by Michele for his last collections, communicating coherently not only with the capsule collection developed with Adidas as part of the collaboration, but also with the other garments presented by the Italian fashion house. Likewise the Air Force 1, intended as a cultural symbol and not just as an icon in Nike’s catalog, represents perfectly the bridge between the worlds of high fashion and streetwear sought after

by Virgil Abloh when he was LV men’s artistic director. Abloh’s connection and knowledge of the model, his role in the Sneaker Culture and the enormous research work made by his team during its development (evidenced by the enormous amount of samples today displayed in the various exhibitions dedicated to him) have determined not only the success but the positive reception of the collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Nike that, particularly in the world of sneakers, would have been rejected by most purists. Another virtuous example of how sneakers can be integrated in the fashion world (without changing their nature) is the work made over the years by Margiela with all its partners, from Reebok to Salomon. In those cases, the two companies communicate as equals, contributing equally to the collabo project, both gaining in contexts that would otherwise be precluded to them. The combination of fashion and sneakers is more than just creating luxury products with high-quality materials to justify their boutique price tag. It finally seems that the fashion world has learned to appreciate, consider and elevate the most important elements of the Sneaker Culture, recognizing its role among the “borrowed” references to create new styles and languages in fashion. This, perhaps, also means that the big brands have realized that the cultural value of a sneaker goes beyond aesthetics and its distinctive features, leading many fashion houses to prefer originals to pale imitations.

From left to right: collabo Gucci x adidas Originals, Louis Vuitton x Nike by Virgil Abloh and Maison Margiela x Reebok

RONNIE FIEG ONCE AGAIN AMONG THE WINNERS AT THE FOOTWEAR NEWS AWARDS

The last months of the year are always times of awards and charts, also in the world of sneakers. Also in 2022 the magazine Footwear News honored the biggest names in shoes with its prestigious awards. Among the winners with Merrell, Puma and D’Wayne Edwards there was once more Ronnie Fieg, who received the award for “Retailer of the Year” for KITH, the store he founded in New York over ten years ago. In 2022 the brand renewed many of its most important collaborations such as Timberland, Calvin Klein, New Balance, BMW, and the New York Knicks. In 2021 Fieg was named Person of the Year by Footwear News and dedicated his award to designer Virgil Abloh, whose sudden death had been announced a few weeks before.

JORDAN BRAND LAUNCHES ITS FIRST WORLD OF FLIGHT IN MILAN

Last December Jordan Brand finally inaugurated in Milan the Air Jordan World of Flight, the first-of-its-kind retail space worldwide opened by the “Jumpman”. The opening was anticipated by a few weeks of teasers on the company’s social channels, as well as by large banners covering the recently revamped space located in the buzzy via Torino 21, just a few steps from Duomo cathedral. The store officially opened on December, 16 in the presence of Craig Williams, President of Jordan Brand, and EMEA VP Sandra Idehen. The event was preceded by an event in Galleria Meravigli, transformed into a place dedicated to basketball and music with a basketball court, an exhibition of memorabilia curated by Marco Evangelisti and a big party attended, among others, by rapper Lazza, Teyana Taylor, and former NBA star and current Virtus Bologna player Marco Belinelli.

C.P. COMPANY OPENS A NEW STORE IN LONDON

The innovative menswear and sportswear brand founded in 1971 by the revolutionary designer Massimo Osti has recently opened its new London store, located at 63 Brewer Street. It is his second store in SOHO, the hottest fashion and streetwear district of the capital, where the Italian brand had already a store in Marshall Street. C.P. Company boasts strong ties to the British scene, being one of the brands historically part of the Casual Culture made known worldwide by British football fans during the late 70s and early 80s. The opening of the new store comes just in time to celebrate the latest collection signed by C.P. Company with London-based skate brand Palace.

CARHARTT WIP OPENS ITS SECOND STORE IN BARCELONA

Carhartt Work In Progress has announced via its social media channels the opening of its second store in Barcelona after the first one located in Carrer del Duc. The new store inaugurated on December 1st is located on Carrer del Comerç, the same street of the previous El Born store and WIP second retail space in Europe. The store spans over 400 square meters split across two floors and was designed by the studio of Milanese architect Andrea Caputo as several other Carhartt stores in Italy, like the one opened in Rome last April. The space also displays original works of the Spanish artist Aleshy as well as of the NYX-based artist Kostas Seremetis.

KICKIT MARKET CELEBRATES ITS 5TH ANNIVERSARY AND RETURNS TO SUPERSTUDIO PIÚ

In 2022 Kickit MARKET has celebrated its first five years of activity with a series of important events in several Italian locations. In these five years the Roman kermesse has grown and radically changed its offerings to the public. While the first editions was a classic sneaker market, today it is an all-round Street Culture festival, with music, art, sport, food & beverage, and wide exhibition spaces dedicated in particular to young designers and emerging brands. The Milan KICKIT edition was held once more at Superstudio Più of via Tortona with one of its biggest events in terms of numbers of sellers present and visitors that formed long queues waiting for entry until early afternoon.

PUMA AND SNEAKERS76 UNVEIL A MESSAGE FROM THE PAST

Six years after their first partnership project, part of the pack celebrating the 10 years of the Taranto store, Sneakers76 and Puma return to collaborate with a limited-edition sneaker. This time the chosen model is the Puma Blaze of Glory, an iconic sneaker of the German brand that over the years accumulated important collaborations with BAPE, Bodega, Colette, SneakerFrike, and ALIKE, among others. Sneakers76 wanted to bring the public’s attention back to the iconic sneaker by drawing inspiration from an imaginary secret society that came from the past to leave an encrypted message inside the sneaker. The limited-edition Blaze of Glory, in its “Kryptòs” version, is available at the SNEAKERS76 store in Taranto with an original triangular box and a series of accessories which are an integral part of the enigma.

SEAN WOTHERSPOON SHOWS HIS NEW ADIDAS ON INSTAGRAM

American designer and artist Sean Wotherspoon has chosen his personal Instagram account to deliver a closer look at his upcoming sneaker release with Adidas Originals, the Orketro rendition, a hybrid mesh and canvas model inspired by the early 2000s running models of the German brand. A few months earlier Wotherspoon previewed, also on Instagram, some prototypes of the Orketro and Gazelle models, hinting that they were the line-up of releases planned for 2023. Wotherspoon, who is the founder of the famous sneaker store Round Two and an expert collector of sneakers and vintage clothing, is best known in this world for the Nike Air Max 1/97, his first and only collaboration with the Swoosh before switching to Adidas, for which in the past two years he has worked on several collections.

EBAY AND NIKE CELEBRATE THE LEGACY OF SANDY BODECKER

Sandy Bodecker was one of the most influential figures in Nike history, where he worked from 1979 to 2008, when he died after a long battle with cancer. At the Beaverton company he worked at probably every division, from running to basket, to football in mid 90s, but his greater legacy is the Nike Skateboarding line launched in 2002 and the big Breaking project. To celebrate the life of Sandy Bodecker and the impact he has had on the company, Nike has recently dedicated him a version of the mytical Dunk SB dressed in eBay’s color scheme, the sneaker sold in a 2003 charity auction. That time the best offer was Sandy’s, who wore his eBay Dunk the day he left Nike SB. The new Nike Dunk Pro SB “Sandy” is available in the best global skate stores, but eBay also auctioned off 10 collectors’ editions pairs to raise money for the Bodecker Foundation.

HIGHSNOBIETY FOR MIZUNO WAVE RIDER 10

Highsnobiety joined once again forces with the Japanese brand Mizuno to create another version of their Wave Rider 10, a running shoe of 2007 parte that is part of Mizuno’s longstanding Wave Rider line. Also this second collaborative project was developed for Highsnobiety by Hikmet Sugoer, founder and former owner of Solebox and actual owner of the hugely successful German brand SONRA. In 2018 Sugoer also worked with Highsnobiety at their first collaboration with Mizuno, the Wave Rider 1 “Phoenix”. The approach for the new WR10 was completely different; inspired by the concepts of white balance and colour temperature, the sneaker is a mix of leather, suede and technical fabrics such as the special translucent ripstop panels used for the upper.

SALEHE BEMBURY CLOSED 2022 WITH A NEW BALANCE 990V2 COLLABORATION

The closing year has brought another big success for Salehe Bembury, who has had a stellar 2022 with the official release of his SPUNGE brand and numerous prestigious collaborations with Vans, Moncler, Brandblack, Crocs, and New Balance. Bembury’s last release of 2022 has been the long-teased New Balance 990V2 “Sand be the Time”, a made in USA limited-edition inspired by dawn and sunset-like colours in the large deserts of the United States. Bembury first teased the new collaboration during the Paris Fashion Week, arousing the curiosity of many fans. For the moment the release is taking place exclusively on the American designer’s website, but it is possible that a wider release will planned for early 2023.

PALACE HAS TAPPED DIEMME TO MANUFACTURE ITS BOOTS

As part of the recent joint venture between Palace and Italian brand C.P. Company, the London skate label revealed a further collaboration with an excellence of Italian sportswear: Diemme. Founded in 1992 by brothers Maico and Dennis Signor in Oné di Fronte, in the footwear district of Montebelluna, Diemme is a manufacturer of Made in Italy trekking boots and outdoor footwear and for this three-way collaboration with Palace and C.P. Company it has created a special version of the Roccia boots, a low-top model in waxed leather and rubber, available in three different colours. Born from the C.P. Company x Palace x Diemme synergy, the new boots were launched on the market along with the rest of the joint collection and are already available online, in C.P. Company flagship stores and in Palace stores in London and New York.

KARHU ARRIVES IN SEATTLE WITH LIKELIHOOD

In the last few weeks Seattle-based sneaker boutique LIKELIHOOD has opened its second retail store in Downtown of the American city and has decided to celebrate this important goal with an exclusive collaboration with Finnish sportswear brand Karhu. The model chosen is Trampas, one of Karhu’s most iconic running silhouettes, which not only recalls its Olympic past but also its strong connection to the history of US college sports since it was chosen by as many as 20 colleges for their athletic teams between the 60s and the 70s. Aaron Del Guzzo, founder of LIKELIHOOD, explained that he chose gray as main colour of the shoe not only for this collaboration with Karhu but also for the layout of his stores, as it reminds him of the winter sky of the “Emerald City.”

DR. MARTENS AND A-COLD-WALL* CONTINUE THEIR PARTNERSHIP

Started in 2020 with a first release, the partnership between Dr. Martens and A-COLD-WALL* is continuing with a new chapter, a capsule collection featuring three new boots combining the classical lines of the British brand with the classical details of manufacturing signed Samuel Ross. The new collection includes two models of the 1461 shoe dressed in all-black and monochrome white and a classical 1460 “8-eye” boot with a double-height Bex sole, zip fastening in replacement of the usual lacing system and the eyelets are covered by flaps. A mix of traditional shapes and new details that works as a whole, redefined by the careful care of young London designer Samuel Ross, one of the leading figures of his generation.

GARMENT WORKSHOP PRESENTS ITS FIRST SNEAKER

Born officially in 2021, Garment Workshop is undoubtedly one of the most interesting Made in Italy brands of the moment. Born from the creative idea of Federico Barengo, Valerio Coretti and Paolo Sarimari, during the last year the brand aroused great success with its periodical drops of a wide choice of garments made to last physically, culturally and emotionally. At the end of 2022 Garment Workshop has presented its first Made in Italy sneaker, the developed in partnership with the design firm RAL7000STUDIO of Civitanova Marche. The Leather S01 PRO is a skate-inspired sneaker that echoes some of the major trends of the high fashion world proposed by Lanvin, Dior, and Balenciaga yet maintaining a clean look that highlights craftmanship and high quality, thus creating a long lasting and more versatile product.

SAUCONY ORIGINALS’ LATEST PACK OF SNEAKERS IS INSPIRED BY SPACE

Saucony Originals closed 2022 with the release of the Planet Pack featuring three sneaker models Shadow 6000, Shadow 5000 and Grid Azura 2000 – inspired in patterns and colours by galaxies and space landscapes. Last year Saucony created several important sneakers collaborations, but gave also ample emphasis on projects conceived by its “in house” design team, which gave birth to wellexecuted releases carefully planned in every detail. Each model of the Planet Pack, already available online and in the world’s best sneaker stores, has been associated with a planet: Mercury for the Shadow 6000, Venus for the Grid Azura 2000 and Mars for the Shadow 5000 (in the picture).

MAKE GURU

Great again