LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals September 2019
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FROM THE
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What do you get when you cross readily available, over-the-counter cosmetics with effective and proven pharmaceuticals? Cosmeceuticals! The cosmeceutical industry is growing rapidly, and estheticians around the world are reaping the benefits! From more potent private labeling options, to easier access to active ingredients, the potential for increased revenue and enhanced results is limitless.
In this month’s Cosmeceuticals Guide, get clear on what cosmeceuticals are, and what they aren’t. Learn how they are (or aren’t) regulated, best practices in buying and recommending cosmeceuticals, and what the driving forces are behind this rapid and continuous market expansion.
PLAN AHEAD AND SCHEDULE YOUR SHOW EXPERIENCE TODAY!
Also this month, come visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, California on September 8th and 9th! Don’t miss
OUR ICES APP FEATURES INCLUDE...
some of my favorite speakers on the Main Stage,
• Live Push Notifications • Connect
including Nerida Joy, Kelley Baker, and an instructor
with Main Stage Speakers • Exhibitor Profiles • Show and Exhibitor interactive maps
for Dr. Vodder’s famous manual lymphatic drainage technique! See you there!
All the best, For real-time updates and show announcements, press allow for push notifications straight to your device.
Download the free app in the APP store ( Android and IOS compatible)
Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com 4
September2019
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September volume 34 number 9
contents 4
From the Editor Advertiser Index
10 Chemotherapy Skin Care
38
Cosmeceutical Skin Care
14 Treat Signs of Aging
44
The Business of Cosmeceuticals
50
Photo Feature
10 Chemotherapy Skin Care
58
Wellness In The Workplace
Spa News
64
Organic & Wellness News
o&w
Spa of the Month
26
spa business
37 Cosmeceuticals Guide
20
20 Spa Of The Month
58 Wellness In The Workplace
28
Working with Influencers
66
Runway Red Lips
34
Tradeshow Talk
72
Image News
36
#esty2esty
28 Working with Influencers
image
skin
18 Skin News
guide
74
66 Runway Red Lips
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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YOUR BROWS, YOUR WAY Hi-Def Brow Pencil sculpts, shapes and defines brows in just a few strokes. The fine-tip applicator and rich, buildable formula allow for a completely customizable look, from natural to bold, for beautiful brows that last all day.
Visit us at Booth # 418/420 ETERNALLY PINK — RevitaLash Cosmetics honors the courage and strength of our Co-Founder, Gayle Brinkenhoff, and that of women everywhere by supporting breast cancer awareness, research and education initiatives year-round, not just in October. This is our Eternally Pink Pledge. ©2019 Athena Cosmetics, Inc. ®
®
3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Aurora Solis Bevin Hamilton Cristina Beecham
Dr. Hal Simeroth Rachel Anise Sherrie Tennessee
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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CIRCADIA
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Before we reach the age of 30, our stem cells continually act to replenish our epidermal cells and collagen. After 30, these cells begin to slow down in their production. As we get older, some become senescent and are no longer very effective. This phenomenon makes a significant contribution to the thinning of our skin layers and the loss of collagen structure, which brings about an unwanted “aging� appearance as the years pass. Over the last decade, I have been focused on the skin science and exploring research and product development related to skin rejuvenation and restoration by means of stem cell technology. Over the past three years specifically, I centered this research on stem cell activity in human skin, and the latest knowledge about these various types of stem cells. As a result of this study I designed a complex of ingredients that has been shown to stimulate the stem cell activity in our skin. This complex was given the name, SRC-7.
CHEMOTHERAPY
SKIN CARE
Experience and Advice by Dr. Hal Simeroth LNEonline.com
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skin Chemotherapy Skin Care
In 2018, my first product was designed. Coincidentally, in July of that same year, my daughter was diagnosed with Hodgkins Lymphoma. This was devastating news and traumatic for us all. Kristen was 45 years old with two small children (two and four), a devoted husband, and an executive level career in the Geosciences. She was about to face the most distressing challenge of her life. She began the first of 12 successive chemotherapy treatments in mid-August 2018. As the treatments continued, the impact on her body became more difficult with each session. From this experience, we have gained a better understanding of how chemotherapy affects the skin, and how stem cell skin care can play an important role in regaining vitality and hydration to the skin. As her chemotherapy treatment progressed, we both noticed that her skin appearance was beginning to show signs of rapid aging. Chemotherapy is the targeted killing of cells in the body that are rapidly dividing. It is aimed at cancer cells, of course, but the skin’s healthy stem cells are generally rapidly dividing as well and thus, are damaged in this treatment process. Since our skin depends on these stem cells to renew and replenish the needed cells in our skin, there is a major impact on our skin’s health and, of course, our outward appearance. In addition, there is typically an impact on sebum production and the skin becomes abnormally dry. This also causes premature aging and sometimes can result in itchy, flaking skin if allowed to continue. Another typical negative effect appears as a loss of radiance and a “graying” of complexion. This is caused by the fact that our outer layers of skin in the epidermis are not being replaced as quickly and those older layers continue to remain on the surface much longer than normal. Exfoliation offers some help, but care must be taken. The production of new replacement epidermal cells 12
September2019
is muted by hampered stem cell activity; thus, a careful balance must be maintained such that over-exfoliation does not occur. In general, the impact of chemotherapy on the skin's appearance and health causes rapid, premature aging. Suddenly, patients look ten to 15 years older. Not only is this negative for overall health, but also the loss of self-esteem and the resulting emotional impact negatively contributes to an overall sense of well-being. Hair is coming out, eyebrows and eyelashes are gone, and the skin looks like it is aging one year every week. This negative reversal in appearance can contribute to depression and a loss of that positive attitude so needed to keep spirits up and maintain inner strength to fight this ugly disease. It is not only a physical battle, but a mental one as well. Anything we can do to increase perceived beauty, or even just a sense of “normalness” during this period will help in this battle.
radicals in the skin from UV is greatly hampered. Oncologists recommend not using antioxidants while going through chemotherapy, so there is no good way to resist free radical damage to skin cells. The best strategy is to avoid the exposure.
2. Avoid Anything Drying to the Skin Avoid hot water, products with alcohol or synthetic ingredients, or any ingredient that retards sebum production.
3. Avoid Harsh Exfoliators Avoid products containing exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids (e.g. glycolic, lactic acid) or beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid. Use gentle and careful exfoliation methods.
Dr. Hal Simeroth, Ph.D. is a leader in the field of skin research. Dr. Simeroth developed
These are things I advise to avoid during chemo:
Stemology, a skin care line developed to work with the body’s natural skin renewal processes using the latest technology and noth-
1. Exposure to Sun and UV Rays
ing but naturally-derived, ethically-sourced
Your immune system is already compromised and the ability to overcome free
ingredients that meet NPA (Natural Product
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Association) standards.
CITY D-TOX The ultimate solution against pollution
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- CITY D-TOX EYE CONTOUR GEL Reduces the look of dark circles after 1 hour compared to a leading competitor product.
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September2019
* F our-week clinical study on 30 women of all skin types (avg. age 52.1 years). The efficacy and tolerance were tested on D0, D14 and D28. Performed by Lab. Dermo-Cosmetik (G.M. Collin) on-site. Individual results may vary.
skin texture
compared to a leading competitor product.
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TREAT SIGNS ofAGING September2019
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The Role of Peptides in Delaying Invasive Procedures by Aurora Solis
The relationship between an esthetician and their client is one founded on trust. This puts the esthetician in a unique position of becoming a resource and expert for their clients on many skin- related issues, even those that rest outside the scope of their licensure. It’s a delicate balance to offer advice on topics such as plastic surgery, since an esthetician must avoid diagnosing diseases and making recommendations for which they are not licensed. By having an open dialogue with clients, however, it’s possible for you to helpfully guide them through the stages of managing their aging skin, knowing what you can do to help them delay (or avoid) the need to visit a plastic surgeon. Healthy and youthful skin is supported by the extracellular matrix (ECM); a complex network of biomolecules that support and protect the dermis. This “scaffolding” is critical to keeping skin firm and full. With age, but mostly due to external factors, this ECM is broken down, leading to laxity, wrinkling and a loss of the facial fullness typical of a youthful appearance. As an esthetician, helping your clients protect and regenerate this all-important matrix throughout their lifetime can help reduce the potential for needing surgical
procedures later in life. Although the skin’s aging process begins in one’s mid-20s, with slowed collagen production and lagging cell turnover, most clients don’t start age control practice in earnest until they reach their 30s and 40s. The severity of the visible signs of aging will vary greatly between clients depending on their previous lifestyle choices, and whether or not they use sunscreen and preventative topical products on a daily basis.
30s AND 40s During the 30s and 40s, it is crucial to educate clients about the importance of daily sun protection to guard skin from unnecessary breakdown caused by UV exposure. Now is also the time to introduce them to antioxidants and collagen-building products that will help increase facial volume and minimize the appearance of wrinkles. It takes only one tenth the amount of UV exposure that it takes to develop sunburn to turn on the matrix metalloproteinase enzymes (MMP) that are responsible for breaking down collagen and other important matrix components. Daily use of broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is critical for all clients, regardless of their age. Retinol is an excellent ingredient for building collagen, normalizing cell turnover, evening skin tone and texture and working to inhibit the negative effects of MMP. Other MMP inhibitors (MMPi) are: • Tocopherol • Resveratrol • L-ascorbic acid (which is also an important collagen-builder) • Beta-carotene • Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) from green tea
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skin Treat Signs of Aging
Peptides are also an important ingredient category for clients looking to delay surgery and sustain youthful skin. There are three common types of peptides used in skin care: neurotransmitter-affecting peptides, carrier peptides and signal peptides.
NEUROTRANSMITTERAFFECTING PEPTIDES Neurotransmitter-affecting peptides work to interfere with transmissions of signals that cause muscle contractions. One that is commonly used in skin care is acetyl hexapeptide-8, a chain of six amino acids that has demonstrated a 30 percent decrease in the depth of wrinkles with twice-daily use for 30 days. A popular neurotransmitter-affecting peptide that is widely used in topicals is dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, a peptide that has a fast-acting wrinkle smoothing effect around the eyes, diminishing wrinkles and expression lines.
CARRIER PEPTIDES Carrier peptides increase the uptake of copper by cells when it’s used with a tripeptide. Copper plays a role in increasing collagen, glycosaminoglycan and adhesive protein production.
SIGNAL PEPTIDES Signal peptides are used to instigate specific actions within the skin. These peptides are shown to stimulate collagen production and, in some cases, elastin production. Some common signal peptides are: • Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 • Palmitoyl oligopeptide Some newer signal peptides are: • Myristoyl pentapeptide-8 • Myristoyl hexapeptide-4 • Palmitoyl tripeptide-38
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It’s also wise to suggest monthly chemical peel treatments to keep cell turnover normalized... These are shown to increase the production of many important matrix components to strengthen and improve the appearance of aging skin. It’s also wise to suggest monthly chemical peel treatments to keep cell turnover normalized and the surface of the skin smooth, and to increase the penetration of anti-aging products applied topically. These strategies during the 30s and early 40s can help delay the potential necessity for surgical intervention as your clients grow older.
50s It’s really in the 50s when more dramatic loss of facial volume and laxity become more apparent. The drop in estrogen production as women move into menopause has been proven to play a role in the slowing of the production of matrix components. This, in conjunction with the breakdown of existing collagen due to genetic factors, as well as UV exposure, leads to more dramatic volume loss in the face, which is often a motivator for patients to seek out surgical options. At this stage it’s often sufficient to add in the use of injectable fillers. Injectables must be performed by qualified medical staff, but can be an option for the esthetician to suggest to their clients. This is a great example of the importance of having a good relationship with a dermatologist and plastic surgeon to whom you can refer those you treat. A referral for injectables would not end your close relationship, as your clients would still need to focus on regular peels and consistent antiaging skin care in order to maintain
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the results they have achieved with you previously. When it’s time to refer your client, the use of poly L-lactic acid and other volume enhancers can make a dramatic difference in a person’s appearance without surgery. That said, there does come a time when excessive wrinkling and laxity cannot be overcome without some surgical lifting. Once you believe that this time may have come, it is wise to refer your clients to a trusted plastic surgeon for a consultation. Again, this is only a supplement to your services for the client, not a handing over. If surgery is the client’s preferred path, properly caring for skin prior to a surgical procedure greatly improves the outcome. For every referral you give, you can also consider sending your card and a list of your services to the plastic surgeon’s office. If they don’t offer the professional skin treatments you offer in their business, they may return the favor and refer their patients to you as well. The importance of healthy skin prior to procedures Regardless of what procedures a client ultimately undergoes, having healthy, resilient skin prior to the surgery will lead to a more positive outcome. Having a facelift may tighten skin, but if the skin being tightened is coarse, discolored and lacking volume, these negative attributes will not be alleviated by the surgery. As an esthetician, you can help your clients prepare for surgery by performing gentle, superficial chemical peels and ensuring that they are following a comprehensive, collagen-building regimen every day at home.
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Biotoc by DermaFirm This biologically-based solution integrates modern technology into herbal ingredients by applying DSC (Derma System Cell) technology, Dermafirm's specialized technology.
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The Larchmont
Sanctuary Spa Los Angeles, CA
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SPA OF THE MONTH
A Zen Garden Escape by Cristina Beecham
Located in the historic Larchmont Village of Los Angeles, California, The Larchmont Sanctuary Day Spa is a zen destination awaiting all those who enter with an inviting sense of warmth and serenity. A haven for guests looking to find balance in their busy lives, The Larchmont Sanctuary Spa offers healing treatments using the best techniques from around the world in the comfort of a neighborhood boutique spa. Offering both indoor and outdoor experiences, guests come to immerse deeply into a garden of relaxation.
spa Spa Of The Month
SIGNATURE TREATMENT Spa Director Bevin Hamilton says the spa is “known for [their] couples experiences,” and their most popular treatment is the Couples Date Night Package (1 hour 50 min, $449). She explains, “This package begins with you sipping champagne in our Coppertino Jacuzzi tub, then on to 90 minutes Couples Head Over Heels Signature Massages which includes Scalp Therapy and Reflexology.” The spa’s menu describes this luxurious package as a romantic getaway to “enjoy some romantic Zen time that’s so much more than dinner and a movie.” This treatment utilizes multiple individualized massage techniques and includes a warm olive and jojoba oil massage and foot reflexology for full-body relaxation. The Larchmont Sanctuary Spa offers an extensive menu of couples packages, including the Escape Together Package (1 hour 20 min, $325) which includes a 20 minute bath and 60 minute massage; the Rekindle Romance 22
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Package (1 hour 50 min, $445) which includes an aromatherapy massage, organic sugar scrub and champagne bath; and The Ultimate Romance Package (3 hours 55 min, $1,224) which includes a 20 minutes bath, 90 minute jade stone massage, salt scrub, vitamin C facial and custom bathrobes to commemorate the experience.
MARKETING The Larchmont Sanctuary Spa uses social media, online reviews and word of mouth to gain new clients and keep regular clients engaged with helpful content. Spa Director Bevin says, “We attract new clients through all of the most popular social media driven methods, but get a good deal of new clients through Yelp, and word of mouth.” The spa’s Instagram feed is decorated with colorful and attractive photos of couples enjoying the spa’s standout treatments. Engaging content that is authentic to your spa’s own personality is vital to growing a loyal following.
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Spa Director Bevin also notes that their marketing strategies are not static. She says, “Marketing techniques vary from season to season but we are constantly exploring new social media channels and techniques.”
TRAINING Frequent and organized team meetings are essential for continuing on the up and up with any skin care or spa business. At The Larchmont Sanctuary Spa, Spa Director Bevin says, “We have periodic team meetings to discuss improvements and to talk about new spa treatments, announcements and events.” While team meetings are essential for keeping everyone on the same page, individual performance reviews are necessary to improve service outcomes and overall customer experience. Bevin says, “I am constantly reviewing staff performance and looking for ways to not only improve the spa experience for clients but for my staff as well. I set goals for the spa and work with each
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spa Spa Of The Month Spa Director Bevin creates specialized experiences for couples to enjoy: “Valentines weekend is always a wonderful time of year for us. We have special valentines couples treatments available, with gift bags, chocolate covered strawberries and champagne. This year we did movie-themed treatments such as “A Star is Born” and “Shakespeare in Love” and we had a flower wall for couples to take pictures in front of.”
RETAIL
staff member individually to help them set goals for themselves.” Keeping employees motivated is easy when you have effective incentives put into place. At The Larchmont Sanctuary Spa, Spa Director Bevin offers her advice: “One of the most important things to me as a Spa Director, is to give my staff the ability to learn and improve. We offer continuing education for exemplary performance in the workplace and hold quarterly workshops on various modalities/therapies. We also send our staff members to Oncology Training with the prestigious Greet The Day, who offers accredited post-graduate oncology massage and skincare education. We hold a bi-annual event called ‘Day of Renewal’ which is a complimentary spa day for those nearing the end of their cancer treatment.“
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The spa offers a variety of retail lines, ranging from local vendors to resultsbased skin care lines. Currently, the spa carries Topikal (CBD), Jax Kelly Candles, Le Mieux skincare and Heather Renae Designs (Jewelry). Spa Director Bevin ads, “We are a boutique spa located in the wonderful Larchmont Village. We love to promote with our local vendors. The retail we sell at the spa is a very curated experience. I am always researching the latest new products and attend spa events throughout the year.” When it comes to offering home care for clients to continuing seeing improvements in their skin, Bevin says, “The magic is in the results. Our clients love to buy our retail because they know that we carry the lines with the best/healthiest ingredients and efficacy.”
Rundown The Larchmont Sanctuary Spa 331 N. Larchmont Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90004
Bevin got her start in the wellness industry in 2014. She has a bachelor’s degree in Metaphysics and is currently working on her Masters. Her passion is to create a blissful, curated Spa experience for each member and client who comes to Larchmont Sanctuary Spa.
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their cli-
323.466.1628 larchmontsanctuary.com Opening: 2015
SPECIAL EVENTS
Spa Owner: Tina Figueroa
Because The Larchmont Sanctuary Spa has so many amazing couples packages, Valentine’s Day is one of the spa’s busiest holidays. To take advantage,
Spa Director: Bevin Hamilton
September2019
Spa Director Spotlight
Awards: “Best Spa in Los Angeles” – LA Weekly
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ents. Please connect with her at mcristina@ lneonline.com
Visit Us at ICES LONG BEACH, CA BoothS #412 - 414
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Zemits HydroLuxx HydroDermabrasion & Oxygen Infusion System Gentle exfoliation with a hydro-solution treatment with vacuum massage and lymphatic drainage capabilities. Extract dead skin and leave a glowing finish with no irritation.
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Face & Body Glow Glow by RevealU is an all-natural exfoliator that polishes off impurities while being gentle enough for everyday use. Using only natural minerals and exfoliants from the earth, this gel is infused with precious ions that accelerate a natural ion exchange that brighten the skin.
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Serum Force 9 Body Gel This serum from Karin Herzog is composed of fruit extracts, allowing for exfoliation of dead cells and the reduction of wrinkles, fine lines and age spots. It tightens the pores, hydrates the horny layer of the epidermis, desensitizes and tones.
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Duo-Pil Maxi by Equipro The Duo-Pil Maxi is made for lukewarm and hot wax. This wax heater has two precise thermostats for independent temperature control.
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Working
with Influencers
Navigate the Beauty Blogger Landscape with The Beauty Professor by Rachel Anise
In 2012, I started Beauty Professor as a purely creative endeavor. Initially, the blog merely served as an outlet for my ardent love of luxury skin care and beauty and its presence on the Internet allowed me to quickly and personally connect with a community of like-minded individuals who felt the same excitement for the quest for the perfect product. I taught myself everything from HTML coding to the correct way to light a photograph and use editing tools (if it can be Googled, it can be learned) and loved writing posts each week as a way to balance my day-to-day focus on academia (I’m also a full-time college professor). The environment in the early days was casual, relaxed and delightfully non-competitive and I was over the moon when the first brand reached out to me via email and asked if they could send me product for review. Never in my wildest dreams did I think an unbridled passion for beauty would result in direct relationships with brands and I was thrilled to accept product that fit with my content focus and test it for my readers.
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business Working with Influencers
fluencer tends to have stronger content specialization (e.g., skincare, injectables, sun care etc.) and greater engagement with his or her audience and this interaction contributes to more trust, credibility and, ultimately, responsiveness in terms of audience behavior. In other words, just because someone has a lot of followers doesn’t mean that said followers are responsive to messaging or even trust what that influencer might say. Micro-influencers typically infuse a personalized touch into their content creation (adeptly balancing both unsponsored and sponsored content) and directly reply to questions and comments from their audience, making their message more authentic, believable and actionable.
At the beginning, receiving product launches that ultimately might be featured on the blog was less of a business transaction and more of a utility that helped me keep my content timely and relevant for my readers. Brands received earned (rather than paid) media exposure, I had an expanse of fresh product from which to choose and my audience had access to the latest in the beauty industry when visiting my site. In short, everybody won. Fast forward nearly eight years later and the landscape of beauty blogging has dramatically changed. What once felt much like the Wild West…no defined rules, clear standards, articulated expectations or established rates… has rapidly transformed into a corporate metropolis of contracts and analytics. Bloggers are now “digital content creators” and “influencers” and many rely solely on third-party apps like Instagram and YouTube (rather than privately owned websites) to share their images and thoughts. Brands are faced with competing—Hunger Games style—to work with the influencers with 30
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the largest reach and succeeding in this endeavor can require significant budgets for sponsorships and high profile press trips. This dynamic can leave newer and/or smaller brands feeling left out of the mix. The good news is that working with the beauty influencer with the “most followers” (I will explain my intentional use of quotes shortly) is not always the most advantageous and, for every business, there is an apropos influencer that will fit even the most humble of budgets. Partnering with the right influencer can bring exposure and, ideally, increased business to your brand or service, making it a completely worthy pursuit when done with an informed mindset. My best strategies for successfully partnering with influencers—both on a local and national level—can be summarized in ten tips:
1 Understand the value of microinfluencers: Defined as a content creator with a follower count ranging from 1000-100,000 followers, a micro-in-
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2 Be clear on the concepts of ROI: Otherwise known as “Return on Investment,” a concern for ROI should be at the forefront of every partnership between brand and influencer. Your budget for a collaboration could consist of a combination of monetary compensation, products or services and, once spent, the goal is to get something back in return. These gains could be in the form of increased exposure (both online and word-of-mouth buzz), more new clients or even an influx of sales. Knowing how you will define the success of a partnership in advance will help you to communicate expectations clearly and spend wisely. 3 Do your due diligence: Did you know that it is incredibly easy and relatively inexpensive for influencers to purchase followers and likes on Instagram? This common yet fraudulent practice can catapult content creators to undeserved fame as their “audience” is actually the result of “liking farms,” often in far off countries, that create fake profiles and activate bots to auto-like posts. Fortunately, brands are becoming wise to this reality and have begun to look at the frequency and quality of comments (meaningful complete sen-
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business Working with Influencers
tences rather than just emojis) to determine the authenticity of one’s audience. I suggest using Socialblade (it’s free) to chart an influencer’s follower count from day-to-day. For example, if they are regularly losing hundreds a day and then gain thousands on a single day, there is a strong likelihood that they’re purchasing their audience.
4 Reach out to influencers via email and make it personal: A well-crafted email can open major doors! When reaching out to an influencer with a proposal, make sure to address them by their name, explain your brand and how you hope to work together. Be tastefully persistent (a follow up or two is perfectly acceptable) and quick on the response if/when you hear back.
5 Understand that a trustworthy influencer will generally ask to test products or services before committing to a favorable review: If their aim is authenticity (which you want), then they can’t promise a glowing review before actually experiencing what your brand has to offer. The influencers with this personal policy are worth their weight in gold as their audience implicitly trusts them and will often readily act upon their recommendations. 6 Be clear on the content you envision: When negotiating a partnership, be detailed on what you envision the deliverables (e.g., content created) to be. Are you seeking a blog post? Instagram post? Instagram Stories (always an excellent place to start as the content feels genuine and in-the-moment)? YouTube video feature or inclusion? For content to be its most effective, both parties should be on the same page. 7 Follow and support on social media: Follow and organically comment on accounts of influencers with whom you’d like to partner. The more they see you and feel your support and interest, the more receptive they’ll likely be to partnering in the future. 8 Diversify verticals: If skincare is your focus, then by all means, reach out to beauty and skincare-specific influencers but also be open to connecting and collaborating with those in the lifestyle, fashion, food and fitness verticals as well as their audiences need skincare, too! 9 Professionalism—including contracts—are essential: A partnership with an influencer is a business transaction and should be treated as such. When crafting an agreement, include a quick scope of the project, a description of the deliverables, the agreed upon compensation (even when it’s limited to a product or a service) and a timeline for completion of the content. 10 Don’t forget the early adopters: Sometimes when a brand really hits its stride and takes off, they’ve been known to abandon those who, in the early stages, helped them to grow into the high-profile success that they’ve become. Instead, honor loyalty and support with a reciprocal dose of loyalty and support…you and your business won’t regret it.
Rachel Anise, otherwise known as The Beauty Professor, is an LA-based college Communication Studies professor and beauty expert with a penchant for beauty and skincare from both high-end and independent niche lines. Her blog, Beauty Professor, features honest reviews, true-tolife images and creative video tutorials that work together to create an authentic and interactive community. 32
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Visit Us at ICES LONG BEACH, CA BoothS #412 - 414
Tradeshow Talk Get the most out of your tradeshow experience with these insider tips!
FROM ATTENDEES:
“It is important to be able to connect with my suppliers each year face to face to maintain the relationship and keep the lines of communication open. When I call them throughout the year, I know that I am not just a voice over the phone, but rather someone they know and are eager to assist with my requests!” “The spirit of a trade show is in full force when you see and hear our industry pioneers giving valuable information in their demos, workshops and conferences on how to improve my services or myself each year to grow my business!” “As a spa manager/owner, it is important for me to hire people excited by our industry and interested in learning about new techniques, ingredients and products. When I am interviewing a potential employee, the first thing I ask is if they have been to any spa industry tradeshows and what they learned there.”
FROM EXHIBITORS:
“Trade shows are the main way I make the connections with the spas/estheticians that use our line. It is important for them to know that I am in their corner to help them be as successful as they can be, which in turn makes my business stronger.” “We love coming to tradeshows and feeling the energy on the exhibitor floor! Clients are excited to learn our new protocols and crowd around our facial demos for a closer look!” “As an educator, I love connecting with estheticians in the small classroom settings. I am able to help each attendee with their specific business strategy and unique brand personality. Keeping in touch after the show allows me to build my consulting business and make a difference in our community!”
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esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! radeshow season is back in full swing for the Esthetician Edit Duo! Are you following our #esty2esty chronicles on Instagram this month? Keep up as we visit local Los Angeles spas in preparation
• Sign up for this year’s Esthetician
Edit giveaway! Stop by the Speaker Lounge at ICES Long Beach to enter!
• Our happy place is at the entrance to any spa, especially when celebrity esthetician Nerida Joy is waiting inside!
• #TBT to last year’s Hydrafacial headquarters visit!
• Don’t miss this month’s Cosmeceuticals photo feature on page 50!
Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach on September 8th and 9th! You might even get a sneak peak of your favorite speakers as they prep for their Main Stage demos!
Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!
@estheticianedit
COSMECEUTICALS Guide Ultimate Power Duo: Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals LNEonline.com
September2019
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Cosmeceutical
SkinCare Classifying next-level skin care ingredients by Aurora Solis
We hear and see the word “cosmeceutical” printed on skin care products for both consumers and professionals, but what does this term actually mean? Does it classify products as better or stronger? Simply put, cosmeceuticals are a class of skin care products that contain active ingredients capable of changing the skin. The term cosmeceuticals was coined by Dr. Albert Klingman (you may know him as the doctor who co-invented Retin-A with Dr. Fulton in 1969) back in the 1980s as a way to describe products that do more than cosmetics, but less than drugs. Basically, it’s a blend of the words cosmetic and pharmaceutical.
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Cosmeceuticals Guide
Get Clear on Cosmeceuticals Cosmeceuticals are often called “medical grade skin care,” but it’s important to note that they are not drugs. While there is general consensus among the professional skin care community about what constitutes a cosmeceutical and what doesn’t, there is no formal regulation for defining cosmeceutical products. There is no governing body that oversees the regulation or formulation of cosmeceutical products. So, in effect, the term cosmeceutical is merely an extremely effective marketing term used to classify results-based skin care products and treatments. In fact, the FDA does not recognize the term cosmeceutical and sees these products a merely cosmetics. This is important to keep in mind when making claims about your products and treatments in order to prevent legal issues.
Benefits of Cosmeceuticals Cosmeceutical products and ingredients are classified as such by the esthetics and spa community because of their effective ability to change and improve the skin. Conditions like melasma, acne, sun damage and visible signs of aging all benefit from the use of cosmeceuticals, whether it is in the treatment room or at home. One major benefit of cosmeceutical products is the ability for estheticians and clients to get potent skin care without a prescription. Active ingredients available to estheticians such as AHA’s, retinols and antioxidants can have a dramatic impact on the appearance of the skin without the heavy price tag and inconvenience of prescription topical medications. If your client is already taking medication prescribed by their dermatologist specifically for their skin, cosmeceutical products are a great added
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supplement to their doctor’s prescribed treatment plan, and can enhance results and shorten the necessary treatment time. Of course, always ask your client to discuss any new home care products with their prescribing physician before beginning at-home use to ensure there are no side effects or undesired reactions.
Cosmeceutical Ingredients The best way to tell if your product should be labeled as a cosmeceutical is to take a look at the ingredients list. Some ingredients have more research and data to back up their claims. These ingredients are often referred to as active ingredients. Cosmeceutical grade active ingredients include: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are very well researched. Some of the most advantageous are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and benzilic acid. Alpha hydroxy acids increase exfoliation of the skin, leaving your skin smoother, softer, and all-around bright-
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er. AHAs are also used to fade sun damage and mild hyperpigmentation. Alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin against free radical damage. It's often incorporated into eye creams and serums because it may improve dark circles. ALA may increase skin firmness and reduce large pores. Green tea is very high in polyphenols, especially epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). EGCG reduces inflammation, stimulates collagen production, and protects against UV damage. This doesn't mean green tea is a good substitute for sunscreen; it's not. But sunscreen products that contain green tea extract might give you some added protection from the damaging effects of the sun on the skin. Ceramides are an important building block of the skin. Their claim to fame is their ability to keep the skin hydrated. Ceramides help reduce transepidermal water loss (or TEWL). This is a fancy way of saying it keeps moisture in your skin, rather than allowing it to
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Cosmeceuticals Guide
Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in the skin and diminishes as you age. evaporate away. It also smooths the look of fine lines as it moisturizes and plumps the skin. Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in the skin and diminishes as you age. Hyaluronic acid helps keep the skin hydrated and firm. Just like with ceramides, hyaluronic acid leaves the skin looking plump and smooth. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is another good antioxidant. Niacinamide increases hydration levels of the skin. It's also good for evening out your complexion by reducing redness, blotchiness, and hyperpigmentation. This ingredient
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brightens the skin and protects against dullness that comes as we age. Retinol and retinaldehyde (not to be confused with the prescription medication Retin-A) are used for softening hyperpigmentation and fine lines. They also leave the skin feeling smoother, and may protect against collagen loss. Retinaldehyde specifically has been shown to reduce wrinkles, even deepset ones. Peptides are short chain amino acids that are naturally found in the skin. Peptides can stimulate collagen production, improving skin firmness
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and texture while reducing fine lines. Questions remain, though, if peptides can be absorbed deeply enough when applied topically in a skin care product. Soy is thought to protect against collagen loss and thinning of the skin that happens as you age. Some studies suggest it also stimulates collagen production. Vitamin C is a well-known antioxidant that may also stimulate collagen creation (specifically L-ascorbic acid). But it's highly unstable and loses its potency quickly once the product is opened and exposed to air. For vitamin C products you'll get the best results from those package in air-lock pumps (that prevent air from getting inside the bottle to the product) or those in single-use capsules. Vitamin E is good for sun damaged skin, and may help protect against degradation of elastin. It works best when paired with vitamin C. Like vitamin C, though, it can be unstable and degrade quickly.
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Market Growth and Strategy by Cristina Beecham
In 2017, the global market for cosmeceuticals was valued at over 46 billion dollars in the U.S. alone. This figure is expected to almost double by 2023 at an estimated value of over 80 billion dollars. World wide, the United States holds the largest market share of cosmeceuticals, followed by Europe and Asia. For skin care manufacturers, estheticians and spa business owners, understanding why the cosmeceutical industry is experiencing such tremendous growth is vital to reaping the economic rewards. Let’s uncover the various forces pushing and pulling cosmeceuticals into the hands of consumers and skin care professionals around the world. LNEonline.com
September2019
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Cosmeceuticals Guide
The Rise of the Aging Population Researchers and analysts agree that a large part of the cosmeceutical industry’s growth can be attributed to population growth. People are living longer, and the desire for youthfulness among men and women is feeding the cosmetic industry. In fact, between 2007 and 2017, there has been a rapid increase in the 40 and over population. With life expectancy expected to continue rising for men and women, the aging population is a growing market for skin care and cosmetic companies. This rapidly growing demographic is sparking demand for anti aging products to prevent wrinkles, sun damage, and other signs of diminishing youthfulness. With this increased demand, skin care manufacturers are responding by focusing research and development on active ingredient-based anti aging products to appeal to this growing demographic.
• Topical retinoids • Antioxidants • Enzymes • Botanicals • Hyaluronic Acid • Amino Acids • Peptides In a market where consumers are growing more and more educated about active skin care ingredients, the importance of continued education and innovation among skin care professionals is more important than ever.
Well-Educated Consumers Just as the number of aging consumers continues to increase, so does their cosmetic ingredient savvy. Beautyconscious consumers are now more knowledgeable and wealthier than ever before and are seeking cosmetics with medicinal benefits. This is another reason for the increase in cosmeceutical grade product sales. Consumers are aware of active ingredients, and are now demanding therapeutic concentrations in their over the counter skin care products.
2002-2007 Growth
2007-2012 Growth
Cosmeceutical Product Demand 10.1%
7.4%
Skin Care
8.8%
7.7%
Anti-Aging Products
11.8%
9.7%
Other Skin Care
6.3%
5.7%
Hair Care
4.1%
3.8%
Injectables
24.6%
10%
Lip Care
11.3%
7.4%
Tooth Whitening
16.9%
4.5%
Other
4.9%
7.8%
Source: The Freedonia Group.
Ingredient Driven The demand for new ingredients is largely driven by the “baby-boomer” generation. Estheticians whose practice relies mainly on aging clients can attest to their growing concern about their aging skin. In demand cosmeceutical ingredients are:
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Competition and Innovation A growing cosmeceutical market encourages competition and demands innovation. It is now vital for skin care manufacturers to separate their product from the masses and get their message to consumers. Extensive marketing is essential for companies that sell cosmeceuticals, as there are often counterfeit and fake products in this unregulated market. The FDA (Food and Drug Administration) does not recognize the term cosmeceutical. However, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) investigates advertising claims made by manufactures of cosmeceuticals. It
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Cosmeceuticals Guide is the FTC’s job to examine any claims of pharmaceutical properties or effects for scientific validity. Any claims made by product manufacturers about having an effect on the structure or function of human skin must be substantiated by scientific evidence. Competition for cosmeceuticals comes from various sectors. Treatments such as laser, which offer more dramatic results than cosmeceuticals but at a greater cost and greater risk, are growing in popularity. Competition from within the cosmeceutical market is increasing as well, with the rise of private label cosmeceuticals and rapid commoditization of active ingredients. With advanced and high quality private label products available to estheticians to bottle and sell, any savvy entrepreneur can grow a successful cosmeceuti-
cal brand! That’s great news for estheticians and spa owners!
Finally, make sure your entire staff is educated on your cosmeceutical line’s efficacy, usage and ingredient profile.
Selecting Cosmeceuticals for Your Practice
Sources
Use your expertise and ingredient knowledge to select effective products. It is also important to evaluate products based on their safety and ease of at-home use. Products that cause significant irritation such as redness or dryness will not be well tolerated by clients. When considering cosmeceutical brands to carry, look for lines that are not available at mass-market retailers and department stores. Professional lines should be designed for estheticians to create a competitive and exclusive retail environment.
F. S. Brandt, A. Cazzaniga, and M. Hann, “Cosmeceuticals: current trends and market analysis,” Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, vol. 30, no. 3
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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Wellness
in the Workplace Engage Your Employees and Increase Profits by Sherrie Tennessee
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August was National Wellness Month. Yes, Wellness now has its own month with Instagram sites like @wellness_ month and research organizations such as the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) sharing data on Wellness. It seems Wellness has become big business and is no longer an individual sport. In addition to the social media aspect, there are countless wellness apps including Insight Timer, Fabulous, and Shine, just to name a few. With Wellness being a huge buzz word, companies have started to integrate Corporate/Workplace Wellness programs into their benefit offerings with the intention of lowering health risks and increasing employee productivity. Grand View Research’s 2019 study noted the global corporate wellness market size was valued at USD 53.6 billion. Why is so much effort and money being spent on the notion of Workplace Wellness? The GWI research points to employee burnout and disengagement. A recent Forbes article reported, in 1973 the average American worked 1,679 hours per year. By 2015, that number reached 1811 hours, almost three weeks more a year! This has resulted in many of those in the workforce being exhausted and overwhelmed! The other side of that coin is the employee disengagement. A 2018 State of the Global Workplace reports, "85% of employees are not engaged or actively disengaged at work.” Astonishingly enough, with all of the money and effort invested in
Workplace Wellness programs, research hasn’t shown the Workplace Wellness programs implemented to be effective in a large percentage of users, according to the National Institute of Mental Health (4).
WHAT IS WELLNESS? If the Wellness Programs are not effective, it poses the question: Could it be Wellness has been ineffective in producing the expected beneficial results? Wellness, the biggest industry trend, is not new. Wellness is the cornerstone of the Spa industry. The word Spa – (Salus Per Aquam) literally means healing through water. Wellness has been ingrained in cultures throughout history; be it through teas, oils, massage, hot springs, muds, wraps, tonics, rituals and healing practices. Ancient modalities including Traditional Chinese Medicine, Herbology, Ayurveda, Hydrotherapy, and even more recent services such as Chiropractic are included under the Wellness umbrella. Wellness is broader than exercise classes. In addition to the above-mentioned options, meditation, mindfulness, yoga practices, walks in nature, as well as human and spiritual connection can all be considered Wellness.
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organic & wellness Wellness In The Workplace
The modern definition of Wellness came in 1948 when the World Health Organization (WHO) defined Wellness as “a state of complete physical, mental, and social well-being." It goes beyond mere freedom from disease or infirmity and emphasizes the proactive maintenance and improvement of health and overall well-being. We as a society have been striving to reach the goal of well-being ever since. Wellness in more current times is considered to be the holistic integration of physical, mental, and spiritual well-being, fueling the body, engaging the mind, and nurturing the spirit in most basic sense (1).
Dimensions of Wellness A few years before WHO defined Wellness, Abraham Maslow (1943) developed the “hierarchy of human needs” citing “physiological, safety, love and belonging, esteem and selfactualization” as essential for a person to feel motivated. Maslow’s pyramid of the needs explains the lower levels have to be met and fulfilled before moving up to the next level. As the ideas of Wellness continue to expand and be explored, the number of sectors has also grown and evolved. The four, six, eight, (who do we appreciate) components of Wellness have shifted from the six facets; physical, emotional, spiritual, intellectual, environmental and social, established by Dr. Bill Hettler in 1976. Current well-being leaders, including, Anthony Robbins, renowned Life Coach, also states there are six core human needs - certainty, variety, significance, love and connection, growth and contribution. Interestingly, the first four needs are defined as “needs of the personality" and the last two are identified as "needs of the spirit.” In the scientific world, the National Center for Biotechnology Information has stepped in and stated there are eight dimensions of wellness which are now used in achieving optimal mental and physical health: 60
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Wellness in more current times is considered to be the holistic integration of physical, mental, and spiritual well-being... 1. Emotional - coping effectively with
life and creating satisfying relationships with others and appreciating our own uniqueness. 2. Environment- good health by occupying pleasant, stimulating environments that support well-being. Takes responsibility to preserve, protect and improve the environment and appreciates the interconnectedness of nature and the individual. 3. Financial - satisfaction with current and future financial situations and is fully aware of financial state and budgets, saves and manages finances in order to achieve realistic goals. 4. Intellectual - recognizing creative abilities and finding ways to expand knowledge and skills and encourages life-long learning. 5. Occupational - personal satisfaction and enrichment from one’s work. involves personal satisfaction and enrichment in your life through the choice of profession, career, and personal performance. 6. Physical - recognizing the need for physical activity, healthy foods, and sleep. The taking care of your physical body to maximize your energy and prevent many chronic illnesses. 7. Social - developing a sense of connection, belonging, and a well-developed support system. Encourages contributing to your community by encouraging healthier living and initiating better communication with those around you. Supporting the interdependence of your community with the natural surroundings gives opportunities to live in harmony with others and with our environment (3). 8. Spiritual - expanding a sense of purpose and meaning in life. The spiritual
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dimension recognizes our search for meaning and purpose in life. Having your actions fall in line with your beliefs and values works towards developing a healthy world view. Pondering the meaning of life for yourself involves respecting the decisions of others to follow their own path (3).
Wellness Starts at the Top With a somewhat clear understanding of Wellness and the key factors determined, then why has the effectiveness of Workplace Wellness programs resulted in minimal change in employees' overall health? As in many things, change has to starts at the top. As Spa and Wellness professionals, we sell the concept of Wellness to clients with the goal of providing a refuge from the world and hopes of having guest leave looking and feeling better than they arrive. However, we do not give the same to ourselves, especially industry leaders (Spa Directors, Managers, Leads). As a former Director of Spa and Wellness, I instructed the team to take care of themselves; get services, rest, finding ways to recharge, and drink plenty of water. Similar to parenting, the team was watching what I was, or in this case, wasn’t doing and not just listening to my words. I was not practicing what I preached. My lack of using the Wellness practices I shared resulted in several health scares and finally forced me to reevaluate. I began to take the steps for my self-care. I began to incorporate weekly yoga and workout sessions, purchasing a 64 oz pink jug that I challenged myself to fill and drink daily. I reduced my hours from 14 – 16 a day to 8 – 12 a day. I led by example, which led the team to look
organic & wellness Wellness In The Workplace at their own Wellness practices and find ways to create self-care as well as work life balance. If Workplace Wellness, is going to be accepted and utilized by team members, we as leaders must do exactly that, and lead by example. Taking time to use the products sold to clients, having a quick aromatherapy meditation session to reduce tension. Having a gratitude instead of gripe session. There has been lots of research on the Winner_2018_2019.pdf
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benefits of replacing complaints with grateful comments. There are laugh sessions, again to create a sense of calm. It is counterintuitive to create a place of serenity and peace for the spa guest and not do the same for the ourselves or team members.
which has now morphed into life enhancers. It becomes essential that we make Wellness a priority, taking care of ourselves first, and refilling our vessels. In using wellness, well-being, and self-care practices, we are better able to take care of ourselves as well our clients, family, friends.
Refilling the Vessel For those in the giving professions, like the Spa, Beauty, and Wellness industry, who have been called day makers, 9:15 AM
Wellness Everyday Wellness shouldn’t just be practiced in August or remembered on the second Saturday in June (Global Wellness Day) it needs to be practiced on a daily basis. Research has shown it takes 21 days to make a habit and 90 days to create a life style. With this in mind, hopefully industry leaders realize that it takes a time to implement and achieve the positive results of a Wellness program. Success of the programs requires spa leaders to actively participate in the programs and make it a tribe event. With this formula, hopefully, Workplace Wellness will become the standard in every locations and spa will host wellness parties for clients and staff instead of Happy Hours.
C
Reference 1. 1. 8 Dimensions of Wellness, (UMD) University of Maryland’s Your Guide to Living Well. [Last accessed June 27, 2017]. Available from: https://umwellness.wordpress.com/8-dimensions-of-wellness/ 2. Ardell DB. Definition of Wellness. Ardell Wellness Report. 1986;18:1–5 3. Stoewen D. L. (2017). Dimensions of wellness: Change your habits, change your life. The Canadian veterinary journal = La revue veterinaire canadienne, 58(8), 861–862. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/ PMC5508938/#b1-cvj_08_861
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Sherrie Tennessee is the Education Director of SpaSOS, where she conducts Spa Management, Wellness, CBD and Customer Service focused training. Sherrie is a licensed massage therapist, nail tech, spa owner, speaker, professor, educator, and author. She is currently completing a Ph.D. and holds a Master of Business Administration with a concentration in marketing and entrepreneurship 62
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THE SAFER CHOICE
Hair Removal
FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIR REMOVAL
Nufree® is a non-wax hair removal process that will remove hair from any part of the body—virtually pain-free. Because Nufree® isn’t a wax, clients won’t experience the pain, redness, or swelling that often happens with wax-based products. Scientifically tested, Nufree® is a self-preserving antibacterial and antimicrobial, ensuring that it’s both safe and effective. Nufree® is so gentle that clients can apply makeup, swim, and tan once finipil® has been applied after their treatment. finipil® our patented* and FDA registered antiseptic lotion kills 99.999% of germs, cools, soothes, and protects the skin from ingrown hairs and irritation! nufree-professionals.com
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Organic & Wellness
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NEWS
SPF from Ke Ko Sugaring Professionals!
Ke Ko’s newly launched sunscreen is rated a #1 on the EWG 2019 guide and is certified organic!
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Further Food for the Spa
kekoprofessionals.com
Upgrade your client’s wellness routine with Further Food Collagen Peptides, made with grass-fed & pasture-raised hydrolyzed collagen peptides protein powder!
858.371.2444
furtherfood.com 646.580.8045
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Dragonfly Botanicals Hemp CBD This supplement may help to support the body and mind with the benefits of cannabinoids derived from industrial hemp. Dragonfly Botanicals believes in sourcing the purest hemp extracts available.
dragonflyhempcbd.com 303.816.0429 64
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The Latest from Hempfield Botanicals Put some pep in your step (without jittery side effects) with this energizing oil made with hemp seed oil, cannabidiol (CBD), and specially compounded terpenes.
HempfieldBotanicals.com 717.874.8480
BIGGER REALLY IS
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RUNWAY
RED LIPS
Tips for mastering red lipstick this fall by Cristina Beecham
September is here, and that means fall makeup is here too! This season, red hot lips are in. Velvety mattes and glossy berry tones can look great on every skin tone for clients wanting to go bold this fall. Learn how to properly color-match your client’s perfect red lip for a long-lasting and balanced look. From start to finish, here’s how to get the look:
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image Runway Red Lips
We all have those clients who insist they can’t wear red lipstick. But, that’s simply not the case! The world of red is so vast, from cherries to berries, ox blood and beyond. There is a shade and undertone for everyone! The process begins with a color analysis of your client’s skin. Do they have cool, neutral, or warm undertones? How much neutral pink or redness do they have in their skin? These are all factors that will determine which red is suitable for your client.
BEST FOR WARM UNDERTONES Orangey-Red: This color is great on warm and medium complexions and beige skin. Pair this color with warm and golden tones for cheeks and eyes, like apricot or peach tones. Cranberry: Warms up fair skin tones and is just enough color to look chic and sophisticated. Cranberry is a warm red, so pair this color with other warm tones like earth tones. Browns, oranges and greens look rich and fab! Raspberry: Contains pink tones that stand out against dark and olive complexions. Rich, copper skin is accented beautifully with a brighter berry red shade. The brightness of fuschia and raspberry based reds complements the natural warmth of these skins. Top it with a shiny lip balm and keep it cool with pink blush and simple eyes. A little shimmer on the eyes to match the raspberry lipstick is fun and youthful.
BEST FOR COOL UNDERTONES Rose-red: Contains blue tones that are perfect for light skin tones. Pair these colors with pink blush and neutral color eye shadows. 68
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True red: Pick this color for fair skin. With doll-like porcelain skin, a true candy apple red adds lovely color and contrast. Look for shades that have blue to bring out warmth in the skin tone. Cherry red: Try this color for coffee colored skin. Skin the color of black coffee looks great with a bright red for the same reason that fair skin does—it creates a beautiful contrast. Use a glossy red with blue undertones. Wine: When this deep red is used against porcelain skin, it is quite lovely; violet tones keep porcelain complexions from looking washed out. Deep chocolate skin paired with a purple-based red creates an incredibly chic look, preferably with a bit of gold iridescence or glitter. Recommend other violet colors for the cheeks and eyes to comple-
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ment this lipstick, keeping it somewhat monochromatic. Choose lighter shades on your older clients, as lips get thin with age and dark lips can accentuate them. Try a rosy red or avoid red lips altogether and opt for a neutral shade, playing up the eyes instead. Choosing the right shade is half the battle. Practice your technique for the perfect application to make your client fall in love with their juicy red pout!
STEP ONE Exfoliate and smooth out the lips. One unfortunate consequence of wearing red lipstick (especially matte) is that dry, peeling and flaky lips are exaggerated. Use a sugar scrub to remove any dead skin from the lips, and follow with a moisturizer or lip balm. Lips will look significantly improved in red lipstick if they are smoothed and softened first.
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image Runway Red Lips
STEP TWO Line the lips with a long lasting lip liner in a shade that closely resembles your chosen lip color. Red lipstick tends to bleed, especially on mature skin or smokers’ skin with wrinkles around the lips. It is also a good idea to fill in the lips completely with the lip liner to ensure the lipstick lasts all night long and has a pigmented base beneath it once it starts to wear off.
HARMONY AND BALANCE Keep the rest of the makeup subtle. Red lipstick is a statement—almost an accessory, so it’s important to keep the rest of your client’s makeup toned down. Strong eye makeup is accept-
able for evening or event looks. Keep a neutral eye with soft skin to achieve this classic look. As for nails, clear polish or light color is cool, and dark polish is a trend that will be around for a while. If your client wants to go red on the nails, make sure the color matches the lips. Remind your clients to check their lipstick often and reapply when necessary. With the exception of some top-of-the-line lipsticks, it’s highly likely that the lipstick will fade or feather over time. When your client notices that it’s faded significantly, tell them to wipe off any that has bled outside the lips, even it out by wiping off areas that are particularly heavy and swipe on a second (or third) coat. Apply these techniques and tips to send your clients off with perfectly pretty pouts this fall!
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Image
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NEWS Prep the Eyes for Makeup!
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The Tri-Peptide Eye Cream from Skin Script opens the eye zone for a refreshed, youthful appearance that is ready for a smooth and flawless makeup application.
skinscriptrx.com
Q-10 Lip Therapy
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Agera Q-10 is a double-layer lip moisturizer that serves as more than just a lip balm. It combines Ceramides and Coenzyme Q10 to hydrate the lips and reduce signs of aging.
ageralabs.com, 877 656-5188
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Clear & Restore for the Nails! Alleviate the symptoms of nail fungus using this patented, state-of-theart transdermal delivery system. Clear + RestoreÂŽ rapidly rejuvenates and improves the appearance of dry, damaged, yellowing nails, safely and effectively.
doctorsklineandgreen.com 1.800.CLRNAIL (257-6245)
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Speed Up Dry Time with The Lash Professional The Lash Professional’s N1 Professional Eyelash Adhesive can be used for both classic and volume eyelash extensions. Its 1 second average dry time allows lash artists to speed up their lashing time and give their clients up to an 8 week retention time.
thelashprofessional.com 480.588.5160
Page Number
25, 33........... Advanced Esthetics / Adonyss........................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 23................. Agera Laboratorie....................................................................................................................... ageralabs.com 76................. Altair Instruments..............................................................................................................altairinstruments.com 70................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics................................................................................. beauinstitute.com 27................. Bella Schneider Beauty............................................................................................. bellaschneiderbeauty.com 32................. Bio France Lab........................................................................................................................ biofrancelab.com 5................... Celluma......................................................................................................................................biophotas.com 9................... Circadia...........................................................................................................................................circadia.com 55................. Dermaware............................................................................................................................... dermaware.com 61.................Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc................................................................................................................dr-jeff.com 2,3,69........... Eminence Organic Skin Care.........................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 75................. Equipro USA............................................................................................................................ equipro-bty.com 42................. EuroSpa Aromatics.........................................................................................................eurospaaromatics.com 13................. G.M. Collin Skin Care.................................................................................................................. gmcollin.com 65................. Grande Cosmetics............................................................................................................... grandelashmd.com 48................. Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................................................................... halecosmeceuticals.com 43................. Hawrych MD Lash............................................................................................................. hawrychmdlash.com 17................. Hempfield Botanicals....................................................................................................hempfielbotanicals.com 56,57............ Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami.............................................................. Miami.skincareshows.com 47................. Industry Cosmetics......................................................................................................................gomyskin.com 19................. Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics.............................................................................................. biellecosmetics.com 31................. Lira Clinical ................................................................................................................................ liraclinical.com 71................. Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research.......................................................................................... lucrece.com 63................. NuFree - Equibal Labs................................................................................................nufree-professionals.com 35................. Rapidlash/Rocasuba.................................................................................................................... rapidlash.com 73................. Rejuvi Laboratory.......................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 41................. RevealU skincare................................................................................................................ revealUskincare.com 7................... Revitalash.....................................................................................................................................revitalash.com 62................. Silcskin/Calvet Cosmetics LLC.........................................................................................................silcskin.com 53................. Skin Accents.............................................................................................................................skinaccents.com 49................. Viktoria Dé Ann.................................................................................................................... viktoriadeann.com *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
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We manufacture to your highest
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Proudly made in The USA and CANADA For your nearest distributor or for a 2019 brochure, call this toll-free number 1-877-324-2226 Visit us at the Long Beach Congress booths #235, 237, 334, 336
SAIL AWAY
with WIND & WAVE
We are commemorating 20 years of beautiful skin with our very own custom DiamondTome signature scent. Available in two sizes, the “Wind & Wave” candle shares its name with our New Anniversary Edition of the NewApeel Exfoliation System. The soy, hand-poured Wind & Wave candle evokes the smells of a day of sailing. Enjoy the scent of sea salt, jasmine, green leaves and cedar as they breezily fill your room.
| diamondtome.com