LNe & SPA March 2019 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals March 2019

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FROM THE

EDITOR

Bio-Therapeutic

TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED

SKIN CARE

The human body is a beautiful, complex being that we can only begin to understand by looking at the skin. We all know that the skin is our body’s largest organ. But, do we understand what it’s telling us when it shows signs of stress? Breakouts, discoloration and inflammation are all signs that something internal isn’t adding up. As estheticians, it can be complicated to instruct our clients on how to adjust their lifestyle. Our Hormones & Skin Guide aims to educate you further on how the body’s hormones affect the look of the skin. From hormonal acne to nutrition, let’s take a look inside for beautiful skin!

I’m also excited to announce that The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia is coming up next month on April 7 & 8. The best way to further your education is to come meet the industry experts who fill the pages of LNE & Spa Magazine in person! With advanced courses on business, makeup, lash extensions, product-focused training and innovative exhibitors, it’s a must-attend event for estheticians that are serious about staying on top of their game. See you there!

All the best,

bio-therapeutic.com

Managing Editor

mcristina@LNEonline.com 4

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March volume 34 number 3

contents 4 From the Editor 82 Advertiser Index

Treating Hormonal Acne

14 The Latest in Acne Treatments

Nutrition and the Skin

Estrogen and Skin Aging

Acne Photo Feature

business

49 Hormones & Skin

Spa of the Month

Borage Seed Oil

Strike a Balance

Organic & Wellness News

Spa News

o&w

spa

10 Extractions 101

26 Strike a Balance

71 Borage Seed Oil

Partnering with a Dermatologist

Yoga Skin

Behind the Spa Door with

Image News

Vanessa Vieira 46

#esty2esty

Tradeshow Talk

image

skin

19 Skin News

guide

10 Extractions 101

36 Partnering with a Dermatologist

76 Yoga Skin

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Director of Marketing Stephanie Batier Rives De Lavays Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchÃ© Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Andrea Gregaydis Carrie Borzillo Cristina Beecham

Dawn Clifford Evie Bak Heather Guy

Laura Cooksey Lori Crete Vanessa Vieira

V I S I T

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Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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EXTRACTIONS

101

Clearing the Way to Beautiful Skin by Heather Guy

Pimple. Zit. Blemish. Blackhead. Breakout...the list goes on and on. Whatever the word of choice is, one of the biggest concerns of a new client coming in for a facial is extractions. Estheticians have the responsibility to assess, alleviate and educate clients on the do’s and dont’s of the extraction process. It is our job to provide methods of extraction that are effective, sanitary and safe for all skin types and conditions. Let’s take a look at some of the tried and true methods of the extraction process and the tools we use to deliver results. The definition of “extraction” is “the technique of manually removing impurities and comedones from the follicle.” The keyword of this definition is technique. It is absolutely essential that estheticians inform their clients about the importance of proper removal of impurities and why this process should be left to the experts. A client should never, and I repeat, never perform extractions at home. The risk of spreading bacteria, pushing bacteria deeper into the follicle, and damaging the surrounding skin is likely with improper extraction techniques and magnified when performed by a non-professional.

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skin Extractions 101 In-home extraction by clients are often performed in dimly lit bathrooms, in front of a mirror, bearing pressure straight down fiercely with the fingers... or finger nails! You can envision it, can’t you? As skin care professionals, we are trained in the proper removal techniques and have access to the proper tools, lighting, and products to minimize the potential for spreading bacteria. Let’s review the various professional extraction options. Also note that as professionals, we should only be extracting low levels of acne, grades one and two primarily. As for advanced levels of acne classified as grade three or four they should be referred to a dermatologist for removal.

• Cotton Pads Our most familiar and basic method of removal, the use of our skilled index fingers wrapped in astringent soaked cotton. Place index fingers on either side of the comedo and apply a bit of pressure at an inward and downarwd direction. If there is difficulty, move fingers side to side lifting out the impaction. Always remember to utilize the pads of your fingers versus the nails to lift out extractions, this will prevent any bacteria from being forced deeper into the skin.This method gives you a softer and more gentle approach making it a nicer experience for first time extractions. This technique is ideal for clients with both open and closed comedones (blackheads/whiteheads) or more sensitive skin. For ease of extraction and protection of the skin be sure to prep the skin with a manual exfoliant or enzyme and distant steam before beginning. For super efficacy as well as difficult impactions, the use of a desincrustation solution (ex. Sodium borate) to soften and liquify sebum is highly recommended. The down side of the cotton method is that you are limited to your ability to access certain areas of the face easily, such as the corners and tips of the nose. Depending on where your 12

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extractions are, the tips of the fingers may be too large to precisely extract from a given location. Overall, this universal method of extraction can be used in any facial treatment situation as long as the skin has been softened and the excess dead skin removed beforehand.

• Cotton Tipped Applicators This is a highly effective method commonly used by professional estheticians. The six inch cotton tipped applicators, or cotton swabs, allow for precise and targeted comedo removal. Applicators are held with the index finger and thumb then placed on either side of the comedo; light, inward/ downward pressure is then applied. Gently move the applicators side to side and lift. This method is especially effective for extractions that are deeply impacted or in difficult to reach areas (ex. sides of the nostrils). Keep in mind that the use of these applicators requires light pressure to ensure the skin is not abraded or bruised. If the extraction will not expel after three attempts, move to a different area of the face as the impaction is clearly not yet ready to come out. As with all methods of extraction, preparation is essential to ease the process of removal and prevent damage to the skin.

• Comedone Extractors These metal tools are designed with a loop at one end to surround the comedo, and with the application of even

pressure, lift the extraction from the skin. Comedone extractors come in a variety of styles depending on the type of extraction being performed. Spoon, Loop, Angled, Small and Flat Loops are amongst the most common extractors available. They range in design from more aggressive to those that minimize the amount of damage possible to the skin. The use of these tools takes a highly trained hand and clients should absolutely be advised to refrain from using them at home. Be conscious of the fact some states regulations regarding the ability as professionals to utilize these tools can vary. Check with your State Board to review the rules and your scope of practice.

• Lancets Common uses of lancets at home are blood draws for diabetics. In skin care, a lancet is a tool with a pointed end used for the extraction of milia. Milia is the buildup of keratin trapped under a superficial layer of skin, most commonly found in areas around the eyes and cheeks. Extraction of milia is approached differently than that of other extractions due to the need to create an opening in the skin allowing for the debris to be removed. Use the lancet to poke a small opening into the milia, parallel to the follicle opening. Using the lancet in a downward motion can cause damage and create a scar.

skin Extractions 101 Once the opening is created, utilize the removal method of fingers wrapped in cotton or the use of cotton swabs to gently push the milia out. Dispose of the used lancet into a sharps container to prevent from contamination or exposure to blood. Be sure to proceed with caution on areas of skin that are particularly thin such as the eyelids, those milia should be referred to a dermatologist for removal. Clients are particularly appreciative of the professional removal of milia since they are extremely difficult to remove without assistance. Keep in mind the use of lancets may also be regulated on a state by state basis.

â&#x20AC;˘ To Sum it Up Alternative extraction methods utilize Galvanic Current for powerful desin-

crustation or High Frequency for anti-bacterial effects. These modalities allow for the further saponification of sebum as well as healing, drying and germicidal effects on inflammation. These electrical currents are used in conjunction with the above methods of extraction for maximum results. Extraction methods should be performed on a case by case basis and determined by a full client consultation. The common denominator with all extraction options is the proper preparation of the skin for successful removal of debris.

Utilizing pre-treatments to cleanse, exfoliate, soften impactions and reduce inflammation will ensure minimal damage and will make the extraction method more effective. As a skin care professional, be sure to closely follow universal precautions on each and every client. Be sure to wear gloves when extracting, utilize the magnification lamp and adhere to your scope of practice. ...and let clients know... to leave the extracting to us!

Heather Guy is a licensed Esthetician, licensed instructor and author. She has several years of industry experience as well as experience in management and retailing. Heather now dedicates her knowledge and passion to the education of future estheticians at the Aesthetic Science Institute.

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The

Latest

in Acne

Treatments What’s on the horizon for treating acne in the spa by Dawn Clifford Acne is one of the most common conditions in the United States, with an estimate of up to 50 million people being affected at one time or another in their lifetime. While commonly thought of as an adolescent condition, most present in ages 12 -24, over the past 10 years the average age of those experiencing acne has expanded to individuals into their 30s and even 40s. With this new demographic of acne sufferer, it is time to start looking at the topicals we use to treat this difficult condition. When we dive into the current arsenal of topical options, we learn that acne treatments work by reducing oil production, speeding skin cell turnover, fighting bacterial infection and/or reducing inflammation in the skin. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, in fact the only acid which is classified as a “beta.” Salicylic acid is lipid soluble, meaning it can penetrate the skin through the sebaceous follicles and in turn target oily skin with open comedones. BHA has also been found to act as an anti-inflammatory thus soothing the affected area and reducing the spread of bacteria. Benzoyl peroxide has limitations in that it should not be used for long periods of time and in high concentrations due to excessive dryness and irritation to the skin. It is very effective in killing the bacteria that causes acne but is best recommended for short term, low dose use. There are many forms of retinoids and retinoid-like topicals being used to treat acne as well. Vitamin A, retinol, retin-A, tazarontene, adapalene; these are all topicals that, when used daily, prevent the plugging of the hair follicle and increase cellular turnover. Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and retinoids continue to be the go-to ingredients when it comes to the topical treatment of acne. But, with an increase in adult acne and now environmental stressors becoming a more prevalent cause of this difficult condition, one must ask “are there any better options?” LNEonline.com

March2019

skin The Latest in Acne Treatments Some of the latest options for treating acne may not be new or cutting-edge ingredients at all but ingredients that are being utilized differently to help combat inflammation, the proliferation of bacteria and the reduction of sebum production.

Azelaic Acid Has incredible anti-inflammatory powers, but it is also known to ease acneprone skin. The antibacterial qualities help to prevent clogged pores by killing any bacteria to reduce white and blackheads. Azelaic acid is also very effective in treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) which can occur on the skin as blemishes start to heal.

Kojic Acid Although Kojic acid is primarily thought of as a skin lightener for sun spots, age spots and scars, it is also an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. This may help to reduce the bacteria associated with acne as well as help to reduce PIH.

Lilac This beautiful purple plant works well as an astringent, helping to combat oily skin. Lavender has also been observed to reduce inflammation, to help cut down on redness and to soothe skin.

Cocktailed Ingredients One of the newer options for treating specific skin conditions are “ingredient cocktails.” One such cocktail is called Granactive™ Acne. With a botanical combination of a patented antimicrobial peptide (Oligopeptide-10), boswellia and honey extract, this powerful cocktail when used in combination with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can help boost the efficacy of each of these ingredients, while offering antiinflammatory benefits. This is a muchneeded option especially for higher grades of acne, because of the FDA banning the combined use of salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide in 2014 due to reported excessive skin irritation and allergic reactions.

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Probiotics Healthy bacteria known as probiotics are emerging not only as an important factor in gut health but also as another option to promote healthy skin from the inside out. Topical use is now showing promise as well, especially with the increase of environmental stressors now being linked to acne and inflammatory skin conditions. Factors such as pollution, heat and humidity can cause clogged pores which may lead to papules or even pustules. Cold and dry air can cause skin problems as well. When the skin becomes dehydrated, the natural defense mechanism is for the sebaceous glands to produce more oil, again leading to congested pores and acne flare-ups. Probiotics are essential bacteria that work to combat environmental stressors, fight infection, boost immunity and even balance pH levels. They also help to stabilize conditions such as acne as they have a calming effect on the skin by helping to prevent the immune system from attacking organisms in the body. These attacks often appear on the microbiome of the skin and appear as breakouts, rashes and other inflammatory conditions. Probiotics seem to support and strengthen the

skin’s microbiome and aid in the skin’s natural defenses. Now that we have taken a closer look at topical options for acne sufferers, let’s look at how the professional can help to curb this difficult condition in the treatment room. Generally, some of the same ingredients that we talked about earlier will carry over into the treatment room but in higher percentages. Although there are a few enzymes as well as cocktailed acid solutions that are available for professional use only that will boost results also.

Prepping the Skin Prepping the skin prior to treating acneic skin with chemical peels is imperative. In most cases, the client’s skin is sensitive, inflamed and is exhibiting active breakout. Starting with a basic, balanced home care regimen and an enzymatic treatment is the perfect way of easing compromised skin into more aggressive treatment options.

Pre-treatment Home Care Regimen It’s simple. Five ingredients to prepare the skin; AHAs or BHAs to encourage mild cell turnover, skin brightening and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as

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skin The Latest in Acne Treatments azelaic acid or kojic acid, retinol to reduce acne outbreaks by preventing dead cells from clogging pores and nutritional antioxidants to replenish the skin and protect the skin with SPF.

Pumpkin Enzyme This active enzyme is an effective pretreatment treatment. Enzymes are a great way of easing sensitive skin conditions into stronger acid peels and begin the healing process. Pumpkin helps to purge impurities while infusing vitamins and nutrients into the skin.

AHA/BHA Peels For most professionals, the go-to in the treatment room for acne is salicylic acid, which is a great option. But as mentioned earlier, with growing numbers of adult acne cases, often you may not only be treating the breakout, your client may also want you to address signs of aging. In this case, a great option

would be a cocktailed solution of AHA and BHA. Glycolic acid, in combination with salicylic acid, not only addresses the breakout but helps to balance the skin, address collagen support and the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. Another effective acid combination is glycolic acid and retinol peel solution. It gives skin a radiant glow, reduces the appearance of pores, fades discoloration, helps prevent and treat breakouts and improves the overall texture of the skin. Clearly, there are many options when treating acne. The objective is finding the correct solution for the individual client. Consultation, skin evaluation and prepping of the skin prior to beginning a treatment series is essential to success. Knowing and understanding the multiple benefits that different ingredients offer will help bring healthy and clearer skin to fruition.

References: 1.

Mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/

acne/diagnosis-treatment 2.

Patients

Physicians

Delivery. Drug Development & Delivery 3. American Academy of Dermatology – “The Burden of Skin Diseases” Bickers DR, HW Lim, D Margolis, MA Weinstock, C Goodman, E Faulker. 4. American Academy of Dermatology –

“Probiotics

and

“Could Probiotics be the Next Big Thing in Acne and Rosacea?” (News Release) Dawn Clifford is the Senior Director of Education at IMAGE Skincare. IMAGE Skincare is a clinical skin care brand that is powered by safe, proven ingredients and smart botanicals.

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# phillycongress19

PHILADELPHIA, PA April 7 & 8, 2019

Pennsylvania Convention Center

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Business Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities

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Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com • USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

REVIVE SKINCARE + SPA Unionville, CT

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A chic boutique spa by Cristina Beecham

Located in the prime area at the heart of Unionville Village, Central Connecticut, surrounded by many successful locally owned businesses, REVIVE Skincare + Spa stands out among the rest. But its high guest satisfaction, word of mouth, stellar reviews and countless testimonials are what bring this chic boutique spa to life. Esthetician and owner Evie Bak brings international experience to her skin care clients, providing luxurious spa services and turning them into monthly necessities!

SPA OF THE MONTH

Signature Treatment REVIVE Skincare + Spa’s signature service is the Advanced Absolu Peel and Lift Facial (90 minutes, $145). This 90 minute hands on treatment delivers instant results with no downtime. Evie begins with a thorough skin analysis and diagnosis. She explains, “All our facials are customized to individual needs.” First, the appropriate cleanser, toner and four-step Absolu Glycolic Acid Peel procedure (30, 50 or 90 percent) are chosen. This peel is designed to restore glow, reduce scarring, pigmentation, and minimize pores and signs of aging. The peel is followed by a cavitation peel that 'power washes' the pores to remove dead skin cells, build up and blackheads. Afterwards, gentle extractions are performed if necessary.

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A high frequency 'Zit Zapper" is used to kill bacteria. Next, a customized Catio Vital Lift treatment (with six gels to choose from formulated for different skin types and concerns), a three phase complete detox, muscular stimulation and dynamic dual ionization that allows for deep product penetration are performed. A facial massage using a combination of manual techniques, lymphatic drainage and hot stone are performed before a micronized algae mask, serum, eye, face and lip cream are applied. The result? According to Evie, “Dewy, plump fresh and clean skin! We were told that this facial is 'life changing.' All our facials include a complementary paraffin hand dip and massage, our guests’ winter favorite!”

Marketing Evie is a savvy business owner, recognizing that “these days it's all about making your business visible online. Google, Instagram and Facebook are 24

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the best free marketing tools a small business owner could ask for! Our Instagram page has a 'Book' button. It doesn't get easier than that!” Evie says, “I hear from clients daily how convenient it is to schedule.” Common with many small business owners, Evie often finds herself working around clients’ busy schedules. She stresses the importance of thinking through your hours of operation: “We are open late and on weekends. The majority of our clients work all day and really appreciate it.” When it comes to re-booking, Evie says it's all about educating, stressing the importance of regular self-care, home care routine and genuine professionalism at REVIVE Skincare +Spa. She explains, “People are incredibly loyal and supportive, we get lots of new customers simply by offering Gift Certificates! Who wouldn't want to experience relaxation and self care. We also noticed guests love incentives. We offer $10 off your next treatment for a referral or when you leave a review.

When a guest leaves relaxed and glowing and thanks us, we simply remind them to write just what they told us and share their experience online. That's what pushed us to the top on Google search. After just one year of operation, we are number one in the area! Thanks to that, we get lots of inquiries.”

Training At REVIVE Skincare + Spa, it’s all about consistent treatment quality. That’s why owner and lead esthetician Evie Bak trains all her therapists personally on how to follow the spa’s protocols and safe practices. She says, “Communication is key, starting with clear guidelines on work ethic and practices. We consult with employees monthly. We are a small, close group working on expanding. Formal meetings happen quarterly to discuss performance, educate and discuss questions and concerns.”

spa Spa Of The Month

“We love networking with great minds that think alike and embrace a healthy lifestyle,” she says.

Retail

Events & Promotion Small businesses can benefit greatly by hosting events for local community members. REVIVE Skincare + Spa hosts quarterly promotions and specials to highlight seasonal treatments. Evie explains, “We feature different facials, show the importance of switching products and updating your routine as seasons change just like your wardrobe. Your skin care should protect you from the elements.” Revive also partners with other local vendors to make a bigger impact. Evie says, “We raise awareness by lifting each other and collaborating with local vendors to widen our reach. A great example of that is our recent V-Day Collaboration that embraced a self-care lifestyle. The “Me Day Giveaway” featured five local female owned businesses and increased our online audience by over 200 followers in 24 hours! We are already planning a Mother's Day Event!” Evie also uses influencer marketing, the number one current marketing trend today. She says they frequently host a popular blogger or Instagram publisher with a large local following to reach a wide audience and spread the word about their unique services.

As a spa owner, Evie says one of the biggest decisions was choosing which skin care lines to retail and use in the treatment room. She explains, “I decided to carry beautifully sourced, advanced, quality product that was unique and couldn't be found locally.” Evie was trained and first introduced to Mary Cohr Paris in Europe. “I absolutely fell in love with their exclusive and unique facial treatments and advanced products formulated in the purest possible way by combining the best of nature and science, products that actually worked for my sensitive skin,” she recalls. She stresses the importance of believing in your product and using it at home, just like you expect your clients too. She says, “We educate our guests and provide them with samples and choose the best suited skin care after their treatment to help them retain long lasting results.”

Rundown REVIVE Skincare and Spa 9 School Street | Unit A Unionville, CT 06085 860.552.7782 Launch: November 2017 Owner: Evie Bak Client ratio: 90 percent female; 10 percent male Amenities: two treatment rooms

Retail line: Mary Cohr Paris Revive also carries a stunning curated collection of crystal and minerals for retail available at the shop and online.

Spa Director Spotlight Evie, owner and lead esthetician at REVIVE Skincare and Spa, is not a newcomer to the spa industry. She was professionally trained in Poland and England. She then spent time working on cruise ships traveling to exotic beaches, shaping eyebrows along the way. Eventually, she settled her roots to the Connecticut region and hasn’t left since. During these travels, she collected over twelve years of experience. After all the training she received both in school and in previous spa jobs, Evie realized it was time to take the leap and be her own boss. She loves providing luxurious spa services, but was ready to do it her own way, under her own roof, as REVIVE Skincare and Spa. Her goal is to take something that is often viewed as only a luxury and make it possible to be enjoyed as often as a necessity.

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion

Breakdown: 30 percent facial; 30 percent retail; 15 percent waxing and tinting; 15 percent massage; 10 percent lash lift and makeup

for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com

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STRIKE BALANCE 5 innovative treatments that create balance within by Carrie Borzillo

Balance is hard to reach in life, but you can easily help your clients achieve it by offering treatments that tend to their inner being. Adding balancing elements to facials, massages, and bodywork can help them disconnect from the hustle and bustle of the day-to-day and embrace the present moment, invoking a sense of calmness, clarity, and positivity. From a reiki facial to a dreamtime journey to a Zen ritual, these five treatments show the many different ways you can help restore balance in your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; minds, bodies, and souls.

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spa Strike a Balance

Balance and Recovery Massage Balance has become a key theme among Flawless Day Spa’s customers in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. That’s why Wendy Soloman has added more treatments to address this need, such as the Balance and Recovery Massage (90-minutes, $115, 120-minutes, $140). This treatment helps balance the body in many ways. “The heel massage is an important first step in this treatment because we’re helping to ground the client. Our therapists use massage techniques and reflexology to restore balance and harmony by focusing on the pressure points in order to relieve pain and achieve deep relaxation throughout the body,” explains Soloman. The full body massage continues by balancing a person’s energy. “Many of our clients arrive with a goal of stress 28

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relief; some for relief of muscle pain; while others are looking for pre- or postathletic sport benefits. The therapist works with them and applies various techniques, which can both energizing and relaxing. Finally, the relaxation time, or guided meditation, is a needed emotional ‘reset’ that helps to create a sense of peace and calm, balancing the mind after the physical balance provided by the foot and body massage,” she adds.

Reiki Facial Juniper Garza’s Reiki Facial at her Beauty Alchemy Cabin is not only a great service to separate her from a crowded Los Angeles spa market, but it also offers the perfect way to balance mind, body, and spirit. The $250 treatment includes a customized 75-minute

facial, typically including microcurrent, with approximately 30 minutes of energy work and tea service provided to complete the treatment. The combination of microcurrent with reiki offers a unique balancing act. “Microcurrent gives energy to the skin on the cellular level, helping it to build more collagen and tone the muscles. In doing so it's really giving the face energy. It complements the energy work because it's the more physical application of energy work, while the reiki is the spiritual application, so they work well together,” explains Garza, a solo holistic esthetician trained in various modalities of healing arts, energy work, and herbal medicine. The other way the service creates balance is through the reiki. “Reiki, simplified, is energy balancing, and any

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spa Strike a Balance

ritual is performed to promote the journey into the dream world, where our subconscious mind and conscious self, meet and create harmony and peaceful,” she adds.

Find Your Zen Ritual

energy balancing is essentially a balancing of the chakras, or energy centers. Doing this after the facial, when they are already relaxed, helps them to go into a really deep state of relaxation,” she says. Like her facials, reiki is also customized to the client’s needs. “I connect with source energy in order to receive insight as how to approach each individual’s needs. I might incorporate smudging, chimes, chant a mantra, or place crystals on them. This is beneficial for anyone who wants a restorative experience, especially for those experiencing stress, holding facial tension or are in need of deep state of relaxation,” adds Garza.

Dreamtime Journey Dreamtime Journey at Apuane Spa at Four Seasons Resort in Punta Mita, Mexico supports the belief of the Huichols, an indigenous people of Mexico, that people live two lives — one in our waking state and the other in our dreaming state. This ritual (110-minutes, $500) includes a body exfoliation, a bathing ritual, and massage and helps to pro30

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mote the journey into the dream world. “More than just looking for a balance in their lives, our clients come here to find an oasis of peace of mind,” says assistant spa manager Paola Mexia. Dreamtime Journey is recommended for clients with a lot of stress, insomnia, and anxiety, and creates a deep relaxation that promotes sleep and stops the thought process. The service begins with a welcome foot cleansing to help release negative energy and prepare the guest to connect with themselves. “We continue with a gentle body scrub with herbal salts (made of mint, sea salt and grape seed oil) to eliminate toxins from your skin, followed by a harmonious and peaceful neuro-sedative massage based on ancient techniques with repetitive movements to completely switch off the thinking process,” says Mexia. After the massage, the guest is wrapped into a full body nourishing cocoon with scalp to promote deep, deep sleep, and a pleasant dreamtime journey. “The Huichols believe that our waking state and our dreaming state are both are of great importance in their culture. This beautiful restorative

Find Your Zen Ritual (120-minutes, $300) at Spa La Quinta at La Quinta Resort & Club, A Waldorf Astoria Resort in La Quinta, California offers stress reduction, improved sleep, softer and more hydrated skin, increased circulation, reduced pain and muscle tension, and a greater connection of the mind, body and spirit. The treatment begins with a soak in the spa’s Zen blend and truffle-infused bath while sipping on a healing tonic. The tonic contains six stress-relieving flower essences. “Lavender to relieve stress, star tulip to calm the mind, dandelion to release tension and toxins, yarrow to build strength, manzanita to bring centeredness and happiness, and self-heal to boost wellness and healing,” says director of spa and fitness Christina Cabrera. After a 20-minute soak is a dry brush exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, increase circulation and engage the lymphatic system followed by a full body hydrating custom massage. This treatment is concluded with a selfguided pranayama breathing journey to promote proper breathing, detox the lungs, invigorate the body with an oxygen boost, and relax the mind, leaving a calm balanced state of being. “Pranayama breathing ritual is also known as the complete or three-part breath. This is the final step in the ritual to connect the mind, body, and spirit which is essential for balancing,” she explains. Cabrera says Find Your Zen Ritual attracts clients who like to connect with nature, who are looking for deep relaxation, and are comfortable with meditation. “We recommend this treatment to anyone in need of stress reduction and is looking for a relaxed state of mind, body, and spirit,” she adds.

spa Strike a Balance

Guided Meditation Cleanse The Guided Meditation Cleanse at Flawless Day Spa in Chapel Hill, North Carolina was created to address the number one health issue in the country — stress, according to owner Wendy Solomon. “Our clients are often aware that their work/life balance is important to manage in keeping their stress levels low, but it is easier said than done. That is why we created this treatment – to help balance body, mind, and spirit,” she says. The treatment (60-minutes, $90) starts with a full body scrub, which helps to invigorate the senses while it exfoliates the skin and helps it to breathe. The scented sugar scrub is organic and

appeals to the senses, creating an emotional response in order to facilitate deep relaxation. Next, the therapist lights a sage stick and smudges the body while reciting a prayer to release negative energy. “This help clients clear negativity, get in touch with their higher power, and connect with the divine. By tapping into their spiritual,” says Soloman. The treatments ends with a guided breathing exercise, which is both a physical and spiritual treatment. “It increases oxygen flow, lowers blood pressure, detoxes the cells, and releases endorphins. It helps people clear their minds, relieve stress, and achieve deeper levels of meditation. People that practice breathing exercises regu-

larly find that they have greater mental sharpness and are able to perform better at work or at physical tasks. It is a simple part of the treatment but helps to balance the body in these numerous ways,” she explains.

Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.

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Celluma SKIN is also medically CEmarked as a Dermal Wound Healing device. The new Celluma SPORT is designed for pain management professionals who can use it anywhere on the body to treat age and injury-related muscle and joint pain, to reduce inflammation and increase local circulation. On the consumer side of the product line, we introduced the new Celluma FACE, a smaller version of the Celluma SKIN, and the Celluma CLEAR, designed with the acne-sufferer in mind.

Do you see any new “hot” trends in 2019?

INDUSTRY TALK

with Patrick L. Johnson, CEO BioPhotas, Inc.

Microneedling and microblading continue to be popular trends in aesthetics. Estheticians are learning more and more about the benefit of pairing Celluma LED therapy with these services to optimize outcomes for their clients. Using Celluma following any mild or deeply ablative treatments can greatly reduce downtime while increasing client comfort levels and satisfaction.

So, how was 2018 for BioPhotas and Celluma? Celluma had a hugely successful 2018! In January, we introduced the Celluma HOME, a compact version of the Celluma for baby-boomers interested in looking and feeling good. This Celluma is perfect for Professionals interested in retailing to their aging clients for home maintenance. In June, we introduced the Celluma POD, a handheld model with all the functionality and effectiveness of our flagship product, the Celluma PRO, but in a size ideal for “spot treatments.” In many cases, the Celluma POD can conveniently sit on the treatment area “hands-free.”

It seems like Celluma’s success is explosive! To what do you attribute that? In 2018, the Celluma PRO won every Product of the Year Award for Light Therapy products from the major publications in professional esthetics, includ-

ing Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa Magazine. The Celluma also won international acclaim being nominated and winning multiple international product awards in 2018. That’s a considerable amount of independent validation that the Celluma is the market-leading Light Therapy device in professional skin care. And we have already been notified that we’ve won three similar awards in 2019. Nothing beats peer to peer endorsement and we are most grateful for that!

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That’s a hard act to follow. What are your plans for 2019? We kicked-off 2019 by introducing four new versions of the Celluma, nearly doubling our product offering. The new Celluma SKIN is designed specifically for the skincare professional and is FDA-Cleared to treat acne as well as reduce fine lines and wrinkles. The

by BioPhotas.com (714) 978.0080 info@biophoptas.com LNEonline.com

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Partnering with a

Dermatologist 36

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How to create a mutually beneficial relationship by Lori Crete

Many estheticians have considered what it would be like to partner with a medical professional. You may be surprised to know that many medical professionals have also thought about what it would be like to work with an esthetician. There are immense opportunities the partnership can bring. While the benefits are plentiful for both sides, these working relationships donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t come without challenges. Many years ago, there was a distinct line between the cosmetology field and the medical world. You would never expect an esthetician to co-work in a dermatologistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s office because of the extreme difference in areas of practice. It was a world where applying creams, serums and cleansers never overlapped with surgical gloves and scalpels. However, as technology, accessibility, and collaboration emerge with synergy, we see these professions intersect beautifully in a mutually beneficial way. As the medical field continues to embrace todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s educated esthetician, you can expect to see more areas of opportunity to work and evolve together.

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business Partnering with a Dermatologist

In-House Relationship One of the most common ways of working with a physician is when an esthetician works within their office. In this arrangement, skin care professionals can expect to see clients who are candidates for plastic surgery, clients who are under the care of their physician for a medical condition, and clients who are looking for more progressive approaches to skin care concerns. Estheticians will provide skin care services, body treatments, and waxing. Estheticians will need to know general medical terminology so they can aptly converse with the doctor and understand chart notes. In addition to the medical terms, concisely and accurately charting client’s visits is of paramount importance, and often requires the SOAP notes format. SOAP is an acronym for Subjective, Objective, Assessment and Plan, which is a form many in the medical field follow to notate a client’s visit. 38

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Employment in a physician’s office requires maturity and confidence, as doctors want to know their clients will receive the same level of care across the office. You must be the type of person who can let the doctor(s) take the lead at any time (even if you disagree) and follow their direction for client treatment plans. Physicians can become sour over a relationship with an esthetician when they feel undermined, implying they know just as much, or more than a physician. This can result in overstepping boundaries. Remember, you are working in their world, not the other way around. You will likely be providing home care recommendations that complement more invasive age management treatments and could be asked to assist in those in-office medical procedures by prepping and preparing clients, as well as going over aftercare instructions. Your makeup artistry skills may also be called on to provide camou-

flage makeup applications and consultations so clients can learn how to cover up any bruising or imperfections after procedures. When a physician considers bringing on an esthetician, often it is mostly a financial decision. They may weigh the benefits of additional income versus the cost of hiring one. To make financial sense, physicians will want an esthetician to increase the office’s profitability. They will likely expect a general income increase. They will look for revenue to come from significant retail product sales, upselling or cross-selling treatments, procedures and surgery, and of course, an expanding client base through your services. While there is less room for creativity in this setting as consistent oversight can be expected, it does come with some financial benefits to you, as the esthetician. Most employees of a medical practice receive a salary and sometimes a commission and bonus

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business Partnering with a Dermatologist structure. Typically, a commission is based on closing sales and referring clients to procedures, but also includes officewide sales goals. You will likely receive a 401(K) contribution, as well as health insurance—which is rare in the esthetics industry. You may also have weekends and a weekday off, working only four days a week. Many offices also offer deep discounts on products and procedures to staff.

Referring Relationship You may be surprised to know that you don’t have to work inside a doctor’s office to reap the benefits of a relationship. Many estheticians have built their own practice outside of a medical setting but have also created a strong relationship with a physician by taking the time to show how you both can have a mutually beneficial referral network. This type of

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relationship can be very valuable because of the cross-referrals that can take place. You can send your clients to have moles and suspicious spots looked at, and the practice can send their clients to you for skin care treatments and waxing. When you have this relationship, you can send clients back and forth, and even market each other’s services to your client lists. You can also take it a step further by hosting special events and inviting the medical staff to speak or answer questions, and the other way around. Although not as abundant, you can also expect some of the same benefits as in-house arrangements. Doctors may offer discounts on products and procedures to get you more acquainted with their offerings, and they also may offer a referral bonus structure. This arrangement tends to work better for both parties because there are overall less investments and risks. Doctors and practice administrators may be more inclined to take on this sort of role with an esthetician especially if you’re in their same building or in close proximity. Simply introducing yourself is not enough, but a good start. If they don’t have an esthetician on staff, go introduce yourself and ask if they have anyone they refer clients to for skin care needs. If they don’t, tell them you’d like to earn their referrals. Often it will take several visits to establish a good relationship, so make certain every time you visit you’re dressed professionally and have all the materials prepared. Be sure to drop off a resume listing your qualifications and training, as well as a service menu and a letter to the staff introducing yourself and asking for referrals. This way, if the decision makers are busy with patients, they can give this information to them later. On your second visit, you can ask to leave brochures, and ask for some of their materials as well. Be ready to answer any questions they may have about your skin care treatments and how they can complement the work they do in their own office. Be aware you will have to prove your ability to take outstanding care of their client referrals for this to be a long term relationship. It may take some time to get back to staff, as word of mouth can take longer for good experiences, opposed to bad ones that travel like wildfire.

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business Partnering with a Dermatologist

Scope of Practice

First and foremost, make sure you’re staying within your scope of practice as an esthetician.

First and foremost, make sure you’re staying within your scope of practice as an esthetician when you’re working as one. If you’re unsure what is allowed, contact your state board or advocacy group for insight. Not only is it imperative to maintain your license, but it is also illegal to do things outside your scope. If you have liability insurance, your insurance company will not provide coverage for incidents outside of it, either. When in doubt, refer out to your physician.

HIPPA One of the best things that can come from this type of arrangement, aside from wonderful clients, is that it also increases your credibility to your existing clients. Medical professionals are generally highly regarded, and if they’re willing to recommend you, your clients will see that as something very special.

A Word to the Wise If you’re considering entering the medical world, whether that’s through employment or a referring relationship, there are some basic criteria to be mindful of to get you off on the right foot.

In the medical field, client confidentiality is of the utmost importance. From medical records to protecting client’s privacy and identity during office visits, you must be willing to adhere to the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act’s (known as HIPAA) strict guidelines. This means you must keep client lists, medical conditions, and treatments or procedures confidential. For more information on how to follow HIPAA guidelines, visit the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services website at HHS.gov.

Universal Precautions Many serious infections are transmitted through contact with blood and bodily fluids. When you work in a medical environment, the potential exposure is even higher. As estheticians we are already taught to use the Universal Precautions safety measures, treating all blood and bodily fluid as if it were known to be infectious or contain bloodborne pathogens. In the medical field, however, it is imperative to practice safe and sanitary conditions at every point of patient contact, this often includes hand washing, gloves, masks, and gowns whenever touching patients, and proper sterilization and disposal of used supplies. For more information about this, visit the Occupational Safety & Health Administration website at OSHA.gov.

A Word on Medical Estheticians Just because you work with a medical professional does not mean you’re a medical professional. You must stay within your scope as an esthetician, and also respect your role as one. No state board recognizes the term “medical esthetician” and it is encouraged not to use that term as the medical field feels it’s a misrepresentation of your license.

Lori Crete is a licensed esthetician and spa owner with 13 years of experience in the field of esthetics. She is the founder and president of The Spa 10, The Esthetician Mentor and The Esthetician Success Master Class Retreat. Lori is the author of The Six-Figure Esthetician System and is also a business coach and mentor who has helped thousands of estheticians achieve success by providing support and teaching the skills, strategies and systems needed to build a lucrative practice. 42

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BEHIND

THE SPA DOOR with Vanessa Vieira, Serpent Skin Holistics, Philadelphia, PA

Concept How do you define the concept of your spa? My main goal is to provide a welcoming and safe space for anyone concerned with their skin. I aim to provide effective services and offer products that deliver results, while also treating the skin holistically to get to the root cause of the problem. Not all the time, but more often than not, our skin reflects what is going on internally. Utilizing customized products to treat topically as well as having a whole body view, yields the best long-term results.

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What are the most popular treatments? Our Signature Treatment Level II (90 minutes, $170) is the most popular. The treatment includes microchanneling, microcurrent, LED therapy, and enzyme oxygen. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect for first time clients who are looking for a new approach and would like to learn more about skin health. The treatment is customized to treat overall health and help repair skin from toxins & environmental damage.

Facility How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there? Where are they located? My treatment room is within Threshold Wellness, located at 440 E Girard Ave. The facility holds amazing other practitioners (acupuncturist, n a t u r o p a t h i c d o c t o r, m u l t i p l e bodyworkers, and other therapies).

Leadership Role What daily challenges do you encounter in your position? Making sure that clients, in and out of the treatment room are taken care of. Since I am a solo practitioner and manage scheduling, emails, calls, product reorders, etc., I always want to make sure everything is managed.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? I make sure to set boundaries and have certain times of the day that are dedicated for work (outside of treatment business hours). Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not always easy to follow those rules, but when I am consistent with it, I find my stress levels decrease.

Marketing & Publicity What can you tell us about your marketing techniques? I try to engage locally, so that people who actually live nearby or visit the area often know of the available services. Yelp can also be helpful for clients searching for a specific service offered.

Exceptional Client Care How do you keep clients loyal and consistent? I think clients can tell if you are a genuine and passionate therapist. I strive to make sure clients are seen and heard in the treatment room. Success to any skin health journey takes a solid relationship between both the therapist and client. Continuing education and constantly searching for new modalities to bring back to the treatment room makes clients eager to return and experience them.

What incentives do you offer to your clients to be sure they come back again? Discounts for loyal customers are often offered. Our friend referral program is a great incentive to share the business with a friend and also receive a discounted service.

Tips For Spa Leaders What advice would you give to someone who would like to manage a spa? Never stop learning, have compassion, passion, and know that you will never be able to please every single person and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s okay! Stay motivated and kind.

Spa Owner Spotlight Vanessa Vieira is a licensed esthetician & holistic health advocate. She has just moved back to Philadelphia from DC and is setting up shop. Her time in DC was spent advancing her knowledge in the whole body approach and the importance of skin barrier function. Vanessa uses multiple methods of healing while aiming to help clients achieve optimal skin health and balance. She is committed to the constant pursuit of knowledge, and is always continuing education with courses in advanced esthetics, massage, and nutrition.

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March2019

esty2esty

ON INSTAGRAM

See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! e are so excited to introduce #BrowQueen Kelley Baker at this year’s International Congress of Esthetics and Spa coming up on April 7 & 8 in Philadelphia! The @estheticianedit duo was lucky enough to experience her work firsthand at her Venice, CA location! • Kelley Baker Brows in Venice, CA has a chic and cozy vibe!

• KBB artist Tory-Lynn Williams (@ torylynnbrows) shapes our brows…

Learn how to give your clients unforgettable brows that will keep them coming back for years!

Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!

• Our #estyeditor definitely didn’t leave empty handed! Find all KBB brow products at ICES Philly!

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Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!

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It is important to be able to connect with my suppliers each year face to face to maintain the relationship and keep the lines of communication open. When I call them throughout the year, I know that I am not just a voice over the phone, but rather someone they know and are eager to assist with my requests! The spirit of a trade show is in full force when you see and hear our industry pioneers giving valuable information in their demos, workshops and conferences on how to improve my services or myself each year to grow my business! As a spa manager/owner, it is important for me to hire people excited by our industry and interested in learning about new techniques, ingredients and products. When I am interviewing a potential employee, the first thing I ask is if they have been to any spa industry tradeshows and what they learned there.

FROM

Trade shows are the main way I make the connections with the spas/estheticians that use our line. It is important for them to know that I am in their corner to help them be as successful as they can be, which in turn makes my business stronger.

We love coming to tradeshows and feeling the energy on the exhibitor floor! Clients are excited to learn our new protocols and crowd around our facial demos for a closer look!

As an educator, I love connecting with estheticians in the small classroom settings. I am able to help each attendee with their specific business strategy and unique brand personality. Keeping in touch after the show allows me to build my consulting business and make a difference in our community!

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EXHIBITORS

HORMONES & SKIN

guide

How the skin reflects what's going on inside...

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Treating

Hormonal Acne Successful Strategies for Clear Skin by Laura Cooksey

Hormones are chemical messengers that regulate almost every aspect of the human body including the maturation of the oil glands in our skin. When the oil glands mature, they develop the capability of becoming acne lesions. Because of this, there are some hormones that are major players when it comes to the development of acne. Even though everyone has hormones and hormonal swings, not everyone experiences acne. This is because hormones are not the root cause of acne, and only part of what can exacerbate it. Acne is actually caused by the inherited propensity of retention hyperkeratosis - dead skin cells sticking together at an accelerated rate and clogging the pore along with other follicular debris. This forms an impaction inside the follicle called the microcomedone â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the beginning of all acne.

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Hormones & Skin guide

The Role of Androgens in Acne Formation There are two main hormones when it comes to acne – androgens and insulin. I will first address androgen hormones and acne. Believe it or not, the acne-prone do not generally have higher levels of androgens in their bodies (with the exception of women with PCOS – Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome). In the case of androgens, it is not the levels of androgens that are the problem – it is the way the skin reacts to androgens that causes problems. Acne-prone skin is way more sensitive to the effects of androgens than normal skin. So, what are androgens? They consist of precursors DHEA and androstenedione which convert to testosterone. Then, with the help of an enzyme called 5-alpha reductase, testosterone is converted into a much more potent hormone called dihydrostestosterone. It is dihydrostestosterone that stimulates keratin and sebum production that affect the acne-prone pore. And, the enzyme, 5-alpha reductase, is also responsible for increasing sensitivity to testosterone. It also happens to be 52

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much more active in the acne-prone. So why is an increase of sebum and keratin such a problem for acne-prone skin? Their skin has proportionally more squalene in their sebum. The problem is that squalene is a fragile unsaturated fat which is very easily converted to squalene peroxide. Squalene peroxide happens to be highly comedogenic (poreclogging) and inflammatory. Squalene peroxides are also free radicals further depleting the pore of oxygen. When there is not enough oxygen, the anaerobic bacteria, p. acnes, is truly allowed to proliferate adding fuel the already raging acne fire. It also results in interleukin-1 being released which causes inflammation and adds to the hyperkeratization process and formation of microcomedo (the beginning of the acne lesion).

The Role of Insulin in Acne Formation Insulin becomes a problem when it is elevated, which is very common among the acne-prone. Too many fat and carbs in the diet along with high-glycemic foods (sugary foods) are just a cou-

ple of the factors that cause elevated insulin. But how does it cause more acne? Elevated insulin triggers a cascading hormonal reaction that floods the bloodstream with DHEA and other androgen precursor hormones. The skin converts these hormones into testosterone and dihydrotestosterone which increase sebum and keratin production; and as explained before, results in acne formation.

The Options for Getting Clear Most acne sufferers are not given a successful strategy to get and keep their skin clear. Their search for the answer leads them down many dead-end streets that includes doctors’ offices, medi-spas and salons. Most dermatologists will start patients on a regimen of antibiotics which may give them temporary relief, but the acne bacteria will soon become resistant and within a few weeks will be back to where they started. At this point a different antibiotic may be prescribed; however, the ramifications associated with the frequent use of antibiotics, is well documented. There are long-term health threats as-

Hormones & Skin guide

sociated with this modality especially antibiotic resistance. MRSA alone kills more Americans every year than emphysema, HIV/AIDS, Parkinson's disease, and homicide combined. Other prescriptions such as birth control pills and/or spironolactone may be given to manage hormonal fluctuations; but does not address the root cause of acne - retention hyperkeratosis. There can be profound side effects to taking hormonal drugs and should be avoided if there are better alternatives. When this fails, the next common approach is to try prescription retinoids which are applied topically. While this approach does address retention hyperkeratosis, most patients have such an adverse reaction to them including irritation, skin hypersensitivity and peeling, they abandon the use of them pretty quickly. The last treatment that should be considered is Accutane, a drug that is taken orally which causes the sebaceous glands to cease the production of oil (sebum). Accutane might be considered by someone with very serious nodular or cystic acne who has exhausted all other forms of viable treatment. However, there are extremely serious potential side effects, including an array of mental, skeletal and internal organ ailments. Women of child bearing age must be on two types of birth control and must be monitored because of the many documented birth defects attributed to its use. Despite these serious health threats, Accutane often doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t work. We have many clients who have been on two, three and even more five-month bouts of Accutane and continued to have acne.

mark. Acne is primarily a dead skincell problem (retention hyperkeratosis); and most acne, no matter what form it takes, starts with microcomedones. This means the solution lies in products that penetrate the pore and prevent dead skin cells from building up in the first place. That is why every acne clients' home-care routine is so crucial -- it's all about preventing these microcomedones from forming. Products that can accomplish this include alpha-hyroxy acids like glycolic and mandelic, betahydroxy acids like salicylic, vitamin a acids like retinaldyhyde and retinol and benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide not only kills bacteria with an infusion of oxygen within the pore, it actually peels the inside of the pore. The first key concept is to give the right products for the skin type and acne type of the client. Because skin types and conditions vary greatly, different products and/or strengths of products need to be tested on the individual to check for sensitivity and/ or tolerance. The other key concept is to take skin adaptation into account. This means adjusting their home-care regimen about every two weeks so the skin does not over-adapt to product use. If their skin

gets too used to their current regimen, their skin will stop responding. It is best to start slowly with products and gradually increase wearing time and/or frequency of use. It general takes around three to six months to clear the skin, cystic acne clearing up the most quickly. Once their skin is clear, the client can go on maintenance and regimen adjust is usually no longer necessary.

Conclusion Hormones can wreak havoc on acneprone skin, but there are safe and triedand-true ways to get it clear and keep it clear. An acne-sufferer does not need to take dangerous prescription drugs or use irritating prescription products to get clear. Finding an acne specialist who will coach them through the clearing process along with giving them some simple lifestyle modifications will get and keep hormonal acne under control.

Laura Cooksey is the Owner of Face Reality Acne Clinic. She is a nationally-recognized acne expert who has been invited to speak at several well-known esthetic congresses and conferences.

A Safer Strategy For Hormonal Acne With understanding of a just a few key concepts, skin care professionals can be highly successful in treating acne. These concepts will explain why so many acne systems, including dermatologists' protocols, miss the LNEonline.com

March2019

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Nutrition and the

Skin

Foods That Influence Hormone Levels by Andrea Gregaydis

Hormonal acne occurs at any point in time when there are fluctuations in our hormones. Anything from flareups during menstrual cycles to changes in the skin from birth control or pregnancy. The one common factor with all of this is Hormones! Anyone can be affected but women, specifically between the ages of 20-40 often suffer from this condition the most. I hear all the time from clients “I thought I was too old for breakouts.” The fact of the matter is, as long as you have hormone fluctuations, you have the potential for hormonal acne. We know that we can’t completely control our hormones, but what we can control are things that we “feed” the acne, specifically specific foods, that may have an influence on acne itself.

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March2019

Hormones & Skin guide

absolute need for carbohydrates in our body. However, they provide us with a source of concentrated energy. Choosing the best sources of carbs, ones which come from fruits, vegetables and whole grains, may help with an improvement in overall acne.

Gluten Gluten is a protein used in some breads and other specific types of processed foods. Gluten can affect certain hormones and cause inflammation in those who are allergic to it. Gluten allergies may not just be a pain for your intestines, but for your skin as well. When someone who suffers from a gluten allergy consumes gluten, their body sees it as a foreign substance, triggering inflammation. You may not know or understand gluten allergies right away, but if your body is giving you warning signs after you consume it, you may want to pay attention to it!

Glycemic Index: What is it?

Food and Acne There may not be any direct link regarding diet and skin health, but knowing that the skin is the largest organ of the body, we know it takes the brunt of our nutritional choices. I, however, know once I incorporate foods specifically full of vitamins and minerals, my skin almost instantly looks clearer. The same goes for water. Once your entire body is hydrated, your skin just seems to be a little bit happier. Clear skin doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just come from professional products, but from everything in your body and environment. Knowing exactly what you are eating and understanding how it affects your skin may be a big step in helping with hormonal acne.

Sugars and Carbohydrates Oh sugar, how on earth can sugar be bad!? It makes you happy, maybe gives you energy or even calms you down.

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But within your body, especially in excess, it can wreak havoc and cause inflammation. Inflammation causes redness, swelling and stress on the skin. Inflammation is a natural response that tells the body that something is wrong and provokes an immune response. If the reaction of inflammation is chronic and our immune cells are constantly working, this can cause more harm than good. This type of immune response can greatly affect your overall skin tone and texture. High blood sugar levels have been shown to reduce the amount of skin protecting antioxidants in our bodies. Carbohydrates, specifically refined carbs, are absorbed quickly into the bloodstream, causing a spike in the body's insulin levels. Insulin increases the activity of androgen. We know androgen is directly and heavily linked to acne and sebum levels. There is an

If you are someone who loves carbs, which really who doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, it may be worth understanding them and knowing not all carbs are to be treated equally. This is where understanding the glycemic index will play a role in your food choices. It is a helpful guide that indicates how quickly blood glucose and insulin levels show up in the blood immediately after digesting carbs. Different carbs result in varying glycemic index responses. Foods that cause a quick rise in blood glucose have a higher glycemic value. There is research showing food that is absorbed more slowly has the least impact on blood sugar levels. The more natural and unprocessed a food is, the lower the glycemic index value. Fruits that are lower on the glycemic index list, such as blueberries, have a higher amount of antioxidant properties!

Hormones & Skin guide

Dairy Once I was old enough to decide what I wanted to consume, milk was one of the first things to go out of my life. So, I have very little experience with how it may affect hormonal acne personally. There has been some research that shows a correlation between acne and dairy consumption, especially skim milk. When you think of dairy, specifically milk, the first things that may come to mind are hormones! Milk has testosterone in it, which is an androgen hormone. This hormone stimulates sebaceous glands. An over production of oil can plug oil glands and increase breakouts. It’s not to say you have to cut out dairy or avoid dairy during fluctuations of hormones, however it may be worth a try if you find yourself to be a lover of all things dairy. If you decide to go this route, consider the nutritional benefits milk has such as high calcium and vitamin D levels, and adjust your diet accordingly to find foods that will supplement those for you.

Unless you are a dietitian, we cannot necessarily create a diet for our clients. What we can do is research and educate ourselves on anything that may have an impact on skin! People will spend hundreds of dollars on the latest and greatest trends with skin care and makeup; the newest ingredients on the market or what the celebrities are endorsing now a days. While it is imperative to use the best possible products for your own specific skin types and conditions, they have zero impact on hormones and hormonal acne. We must understand and explain to our client the importance of taking care of ourselves as a whole, so our skin will be much happier for it. Keep in mind that acne is not something that occurs overnight, although sometimes

it seems that way. There is no quick fix to clearing it up. Start small and go from there. Make sure to give the skin several weeks once coming off or changing a specific part of your diet. If something seems to be working, stick with it. If not, try the next thing and go from there!

Andrea Gregaydis is a Licensed Esthetician and International CIDESCO Diplomat. She holds additional licenses as a NYS Instructor and Nail Technician. Andrea is the Lead Instructor at the Aesthetic Science Institute and has over ten years of experience as a practitioner, team coordinator and role model for hundreds of future skin care professionals.

Understanding It All There is not enough research to specifically understand or state what exactly the link is between food and acne. We do know that high amounts of sugar, carbs, dairy, and any other food you consume can cause a quick spike in insulin levels. These levels do and can have a great impact on your hormone levels. When trying to control, understand and even make changes to your skin care or acne maintenance routine, it's important not to change it all at once. Just like adding or taking away skin care products to see which one is or isn’t working, we should do the same with food. If you completely overhaul your pantry and take away all the thing you may find “bad,” you could be missing out on enjoying the things you truly love! It may be a matter of just a shift in how much of each thing your are consuming, how often and when. LNEonline.com

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Estrogen and

Skin Aging How the rise and fall of estrogen affects the skin by Aurora Solis

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s face it, our clients arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t getting any younger. As we support our clients through the various stages of their lives, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inevitable that their skin concerns are going to change. It is safe to anticipate clients approaching menopause will begin to complain about wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of firmness, and dryness. But why do these common signs of aging occur as women age? A closer look at the role of hormones, particularly estrogen, and their effect on the skin over time holds the answers to why your aging clients experience skin aging in their middle age.

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March2019

What is estrogen? Estrogen is one of the two main sex hormones that women have (the other being progesterone). However, estrogen is a class of hormones that includes estriol, estradiol and estrone. The estrogen group is mainly responsible for the physical features and reproductive mechanisms that biologically differentiate men from women. Estrogen is ever-present in the female body, and is produced in the ovaries, adrenal glands and fat tissues. Estriol is made from the placenta during pregnancy; estradiol is the primary sex hormone and can be the culprit of many hormone-related conditions such as endometriosis and fibroids; estrone is the main estrogen present after menopause. The effects of estrogen on the female body can first be seen during puberty. As the female body matures, estrogen is responsible for growing breasts, hair, and beginning the men-

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strual cycle. Estrogen is an essential hormone, not only for its reproductive actions, but also for the many important functions it supports. Estrogen helps keep cholesterol in check, maintains bone health, can affect mood fluctuations, the heart, and the skin.

During puberty, estrogen levels rise. The hormone fuels the many changes a young girl experiences during this time. Estrogen levels also rise in women who are overweight. A healthy rise in estrogen is experienced during pregnancy. Elevated estrogen can also be associated with various forms of cancer.

Perimenopause is the transitional period before menopause. It usually starts when a woman is in her 40s. A woman in perimenopause experiences a decline in estrogen levels, as well as weight gain, irregular menstruation, hot flashes, and vaginal dryness. The decline in estrogen can happen abruptly, or over a period of several years. Once a woman enters her 50s, she is likely to begin to experience menopause. During this period, estrogen and progesterone levels drop, causing hot flashes, night sweats, loss of libido, dryness, and moodiness. Lower levels of estrogen can also increase the risk of heart disease, stroke, osteoporosis and bone fractures.

Estrogen in Decline

Estrogen and the Skin

The first natural decline in estrogen levels is during perimenopause.

Estrogen is vital in supporting the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collagen and elastin fibers. As a wom-

Estrogen on the Rise

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Hormones & Skin guide an enters perimenopause and menopause, she may experience an overall loss of radiance in her skin. Collagen and elastin synthesis slow down, sebum production changes, resulting in dry skin and acne. After menopause, the dramatic reduction in estrogen also causes reduced epidermal thickness. This results in dry skin, laxity, lines, wrinkles and folds.

protect against photo aging, and increase hydration by increasing levels of hyaluronic acid. Hormonal therapy is a great option for clients who want to make a change from the inside out. If your client is complaining of uncomfortable menopausal symptoms and has experienced all of the above-mentioned signs of skin aging, advise her to ask her physician about HRT.

Hormonal Therapy Topical Treatment Studies have shown that hormonal therapy, mainly estrogen replacement therapy (HRT) in post-menopausal women, can play a beneficial role in diminishing these signs of aging. Hormone therapy has been shown to significantly delay skin aging by reducing epidermal thinning, stimulate collagen synthesis,

Skin care professionals can create a treatment plan and home regimen to help facilitate collagen synthesis, promote an even tone, hydrate, and smooth skin texture. Lasers and IPL technology improve skin tone, texture, and encourage collagen and elastin

synthesis to help restore thickness to the dermal matrix, improve laxity, and reduce wrinkles. Menopausal women have the opportunity to take years off the look of their face with these combined tools. However, it’s important to remember that an aging face is also determined by bone and muscle integrity. Medical esthetic injections help replenish lost volume and smooth muscles, or reduce the severity of expression lines. It’s impossible to stop hormonal changes and skin aging over night. But as skin care professionals, you have the opportunity to support your client and educate them on all the options available to them. At the end of the day, remember that your main role is to be a source of information and support.

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