LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals August 2019
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FROM THE
EDITOR
Mother Earth has gifted us with so many amazing ingredients to heal and treat the skin and body. And while active and synthetic ingredients do have their place in our treatment rooms for especially hard-totreat conditions, natural and plant-based ingredients deserve to be recognized for both their beauty and efficacy.
This month’s Clay & Mud Guide highlights several Earth ingredients that aid in detoxifying, toning and healing the skin. Oftentimes, the most powerful and effective treatments come from combining natural and synthetic ingredients for a holistic approach that packs a punch. If you are an esty who prefers cosmeceutical products, stay tuned for next month’s
PLAN AHEAD AND SCHEDULE YOUR SHOW EXPERIENCE TODAY!
Cosmeceuticals Guide!
I hope you have all had an amazing summer! I’m so excited to see your smiling faces at The International
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August volume 34 number 8
contents 4
From the Editor Advertiser Index
10 Skin Barrier Oils
42
World of Clay
14 Photosensitive Essential Oils
48
Clay & Mud Wraps
52
Photo Feature
41 Clay & Mud Guide
23
Spa of the Month
58
Spirulina Skin Care
26
Family Spa Packages
62
Organic & Wellness News
31
Spa News
o&w
10 Skin Barrier Oils
26 Family Spa Packages
58 Spirulina Skin Care
32
First Impressions
64
Fall Makeup Trends
38
Tradeshow Talk
68
Feel The Brow Energy
40
#esty2esty
72
Image News
32 First Impressions
image
business
spa
skin
19 Skin News
guide
74
64 Fall Makeup Trends
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Cristina Beecham Aurora Solis Mika Diaz Maria Camille Arias
Barbie Zarraga Darcy Evans Elizabeth Zaks
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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Skin
Barrier
Oils
Plant Oils for Wound Healing and Skin Barrier by Aurora Solis
Oils have been used in skin care for centuries. They are beloved for their hydrating and nourishing properties, and are a part of most estheticians’ professional skin care kits. But, have you ever wondered exactly how plant oils function on the skin, and whether they do anything other than form an occlusive, protective barrier? How exactly do plant oils nourish, protect and hydrate the surface of the skin? Are all plant oils created equally? Here is a breakdown of 11 plant oils and how exactly they benefit the skin.
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skin Skin Barrier Oils
A DELICATE BALANCE Every plant oil contains a different chemical constitution of various compounds. These compounds include triglycerides, fatty acids, tocopherols, phospholipids, waxes, squalene and phenolic compounds. Each compound affects the skin differently when applied topically. What’s more, each plant oil differs in the type and amount of each compound present. In order to understand why certain plant oils are better for barrier repair or wounding healing than others, we must first understand two key players in the formulation of an oil, and how they work with and against each other. Meet Linoleic and Oleic Acids. Linoleic Acid – Linoleic acid plays a large role in maintaining the integrity of the water permeability barrier of the skin. Oleic Acid – On the other hand, oleic acid disrupts the skin barrier, eventually causing dermatitis with continual application. How a particular oil affects the skin comes down to the ratio, or balance, between the oil’s linoleic acid and oleic acid concentrations. A good overall strategy is to seek oils much higher in linoleic than oleic acid, but it ultimately depends on the result you are seeking. For example, some oils higher in oleic acid have been shown to possess wound-healing benefits. Let’s review several popular plant oils and how their linoleic and oleic acid ratios compare:
1. Olive Oil Olive oil comes from the fruits of the olive tree, Olea europaea. It consists primarily of oleic acid and has a lesser concentration of linoleic acid. Olive oil is abundant in antioxidants, arming olive oil with anti-inflammatory properties. Due to its high oleic acid concentration, olive oil has been shown 12
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to have superior wound healing capabilities, reducing oxidative damage and promoting dermal reconstruction. However, topically applied olive oil has a negative effect on the stratum corneum and skin barrier function. There is evidence of increased trans-epidermal water loss after topical olive oil application. Researchers believe the reason olive is so great at wound healing is that the oleic acid may help facilitate the earliest stages of healing, such as inflammation and stimulating skin reconstruction. Overall, olive oil is a good choice for clients with damaged skin after invasive lasers and peels.
2. Sunflower Seed Oil Sunflower oil is derived from the seeds of the Helianthus annus plant. Like ol-
ive oil, sunflower oil also has a higher concentration of oleic acid than linoleic acid, but the linoleic acid is present in a high enough quantity to have some skin barrier benefits. In fact, sunflower seed oil has been shown to protect the stratum corneum and improve skin hydration without causing irritation. Sunflower seed oil is also skin barrier enhancing and promotes homeostasis.
3. Coconut Oil Coconut oil is harvested from the meat of ripe coconuts. It is comprised of several fatty acids, including lauric acid, palmitic acid, and mystic acid. Coconut oil has a low concentration of both oleic and linoleic acids. Studies have shown that coconut oil is effective at improving the skin barrier and decreasing trans epidermal water loss.
skin Skin Barrier Oils
4. Safflower Seed Oil Safflower seed oil comes from Carthamus tinctorius. It is comprised of 70 percent linoleic acid and only 10 percent oleic acid. Safflower seed oil is a great anti-inflammatory oil, and studies have shown that it has several benefits including antioxidation and melanin production inhibition.
5. Argan Oil Argan oil is derived from the kernels of Argania spinosa. Argan oil is made up of about 80 percent mono-unsaturated fatty acids, and 20 percent fatty acids, as well as compounds such as tocopherols, sterols and squalene. Topical application of argan oil has been shown to improve skin elasticity, hydration and barrier function. It does this by improving the skin’s water-holding capacity. Argan oil is a great oil for dehydrated skin in need of skin barrier strengthening.
6. Avocado Oil Avocado oil comes from the fruit of the Persea americana. It is comprised of oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids, in order of abundance. It is also a good source of vitamins A, C, D, E and minerals. Avocado oil is an effective wound healing oil and is a good source of nourishement for dry and damaged skin. Offer avocado oil to clients experiencing wind burn or chapped skin during the winter.
7. Borage Seed Oil Derived from the seeds of Borago officinalis, borage seed oil contains high levels of linoleic acid, making it effective at soothing conditions like atopic dermatitis. Studies have also shown that borage seed oil is excellent at decreasing trans epidermal water loss on the skin.
8. Jojoba Seed Oil Jojoba seed oil is popular and a widely used oil. Harvested from the Simmondsia chinensis, Jojoba is a
highly stable and resistant oil, making it ideal for use in cosmetics. Studies have shown that the high content of wax esters in jojoba oil make it suitable for skin barrier repair and for healing conditions such as dermatitis, eczema and acne. Jojoba is also an effective anti-inflammatory and is good for all skin types.
9. Oat Oil Oat oal, derived from Avena sativa, consists of about 40 percent linoleic acid and approximately 30 percent oleic acid. Although the oleic acid may distrupt the skin barrier, the superior amount of linoleic acid ultimately renders oat oil great for skin rashes, eczema, and burns. Studies have also shown oat oil to be effective at increasing ceramide levels in the skin.
10. Rose Hip Seed Oil Extracted from the seeds of Rosa canina, rose hip seed oil is an abundant source of linoleic acid. It is high in antioxidants, tocopherols and carotenoids. This oil is great for decreasing inflammation and oxidative stress.
11. Shea Butter From the kernels of the Vitellaria paradoxa tree, shea butter is rich in tocopherols, phenols, sterols and triterpenes. It is frequently used in cosmetic products and is a potent anti-inflammatory. Shea butter has also been shown to have some influence in producing ceramides precursors, which may lead to skin barrier repair and strengthening.
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Summertime is still in full swing, with many states just now reaching their peak heat for the season. As estheticians around the country continue to fight the good fight and remind their clients to protect their skin from the sun, is there another sunburn culprit lurking in our cosmetic products? Before your give your clients a list of beach bag essentials, read up on photosensitive essential oils that should stay far away from your client’s face on a beach day!
Photosensitive
Essential Oils Prevent adverse reactions to phototoxic essential oils by Elizabeth Zaks LNEonline.com
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skin Photosensitive Essential Oils
What is a photosensitive essential oil? While great for adding natural fragrance to cosmetics, essential oils can react to our environment in ways that harm our skin. Specifically, citrus oils react adversely to sunlight. Why are some oils photosensitive? Photosensitization is the process in which ultraviolet (UV) radiation combines with a particular substance and causes chemical or biological changes. Some essential oils contain furocoumarins, a special class of chemicals that can cause photosensitization of the skin. The most commonly found furocoumarins in essential oils are bergapten and oxypeucedanin. The chemical structure of these molecules (and their metabolites) allows them to form crosslinks with skin cell DNA, in turn making the skin especially susceptible to UV radiation. During the process, free radicals and oxygen molecules are also formed and can cause damage to cell membranes, organelles, and proteins. If exposed to sunlight (which gives off UV radiation) after topical application of a photosensitive oil, the skin may become temporarily darkly pigmented, red, or irritated. Visible reactions typically peak up to three days after initial UV exposure, and can last for several weeks. Symptoms include severe sunburn, darkening of the skin, swelling, and blistering. It’s important to recognize these symptoms when clients complain their SPF caused a reaction. Are they using essential oils at any point in their skin care routine? This may be the cause of their burning and discoloration. Clients will often react on areas where they apply fragrance, such as around the neck, decollate, wrists and insides of the elbows. Ask your clients to check the ingredient list on their fragrance, especially if they use a custom blend of essential oils instead of a conventional, alcohol based fragrance.
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Which oils are photosensitive?
How to avoid photosensitization
Some oils containing furanocoumarin include:
If you have applied photosensitive essential oils to your skin above safe dilutions, do not expose your skin to UV light for 12-18 hours. Exposure to UV light can cause a reaction up to 12 hours after application, and can continue to produce reactions for hours. The easiest way to avoid photosensitization is to not apply a furanocoumarin-containing essential oil to the skin at all. Covering up any skin to which phototoxic essential oils have been applied can help to prevent a phototoxic reaction. However, thin fabrics, such as some tee shirts, may not provide adequate protection. Phototoxic essential oils can still be used topically on the skin, even with exposure to UV light, as long as they are safely diluted.
• Bitter Orange Oil (Citrus x uranium) • Grapefruit (Citrus x paradisi) • Lemon (Citrus x limon, Citrus limonum) • Lime (Citrus x aurantifolia, Citrus x latifolia) • Angelica Root (Angelica archangelica) • Bergamot (Citrus bergamia, Citrus aurantium) • Mandarin Leaf (Citrus reticulata, Citrus nobilis) • Rue (Ruta graveolens, Ruta montana) • Cumin (Cuminum cyminum) • Angelica root (Angelica glauca) • Taget essential oil or absolute (Tagetes minuta) • Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) • Fig leaf absolute (Ficus carica)
skin Photosensitive Essential Oils Using photosensitive oils at nighttime helps reduce the risks associated with these oils. Encourage clients to add these oils to their nightly skin care routine, in-shower wash, body lotion, bedtime bath, or before-bed rituals and partner or back massages. If your clients tells you they are having a reaction, get them away from UV exposure immediately and follow one of the following procedures: Skin Reaction: • Immediately wash with cold water and soap. Rinse thoroughly. • Dilute and rinse the skin with vegetable oil to dilute the essential oil. Eye Reaction: • Rinse opened eye for several minutes under running water. • Apply vegetable oil with a sterile cloth around the eye to dilute any excess essential oil.
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• Always obtain medical advice if the skin is painful or the reaction covers a substantial portion of the body.
Sun Safe Essential Oils Many people write off all citrus essential oils as being photosensitive, but there are several that are safe to use, including steam-distilled versions. Although furanocoumarins are present in cold pressed versions, the molecules are not volatile and remain behind during steam distillation. Sun-safe essential oils include: • Bergamot – steam distilled – bergap ten-free/furanocoumarin-free* (Citrus bergamia, Citrus aurantium) • Lemon - steam distilled (Citrus x limon, Citrus limonum) • Lime – steam distilled (Citrus x aurantifolia, Citrus x latifolia) • Mandarin – cold pressed (Citrus reticulata)
• Orange, Sweet – cold pressed (Citrus sinensis, Citrus aurantium var. sinensis) • Tangerine – cold pressed (Citrus reticulata, Citrus nobilis, Citrus tangerine)
Elizabeth Zaks is a licensed esthetician and aromatherapist based in London, UK. She has a passion for the safe usage of essential and plant oils.
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The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental Washington D.C.
An Oasis of Warmth
SPA OF THE MONTH
Photo by: Mandarin Oriental
by Cristina Beecham
The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental, Washington D.C. is a tranquil escape for the mind, body and spirit. Located in the heart of historic Washington D.C., the spa’s Forbes Four Star status attracts D.C. locals looking to enhance their wellbeing and escape from metropolitan life. With warm and neutral colors draping the spa, a sense of warmth and relaxation greet each guest. The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental’s profoundly Zen atmosphere is a welcomed oasis of holistic therapy. With eight treatment rooms, a dedicated beauty suite, relaxation rooms and vitality pools, guests leave feeling rejuvenated, both inside and out.
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spa Spa Of The Month
Photo by: Mandarin Oriental
SIGNATURE TREATMENT The most popular treatment at The Mandarin Oriental Spa in D.C. is the Oriental Essence Massage (50 minutes, $165). Spa Director Sherrie Tennessee describes the treatment as, “a customizable service where the guest is able to select the scent and pressure for the session.” Tailored treatments are the new standard of service when it comes to the spa industry. Clients expect and deserve treatments that are targeted to their specific needs to help induce relaxation and overall wellness. To further promote well-being, the Oriental Essence Massage also includes the spa’s signature Oriental Heritage, “a pillar of Mandarin Oriental,” says Tennessee, beginning with a shoe ritual when the client checks into the spa. The massage then starts and ends with the sounds of bells, and tea is served at the end of the experience. Sherrie goes on to explain that, “In this busy world, the goal of the experience is to 24
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give the guest reprieve from the world and allow for reconnection to the mind and body.”
MARKETING While you would expect the majority of hotel spa guests to be tourists and travelers, the opposite is true for the Mandarin Oriental D.C. Sherrie says, “The majority of the guest to Mandarin Oriental, Washington DC are local. The location was the only Forbes Four Star location until earlier this year. That fact along with the amenities and brand recognition attract new clients. We do our best to provide a fantastic experience which will have clients return again and again.” Marketing strategies vary greatly from solo practitioners to luxury hotel spas. Sherrie recognizes that she is fortunate to have the full support of the Mandarin Oriental’s Marketing and
Communications department. To help promote the spa’s services, she says, “We utilize packages and marketing tools to attract new clients.” Social media is also a big part of the spa’s marketing program. The Spa at the Mandarin has a strong social media presence. Instagram is used to “assist in the promotion of events including the Hydrate and Meditate (monthly Wellness event), Empress Facial, offered in conjunction with the Empress exhibit at the Smithsonian.”
TRAINING The Spa at the Mandarin is fortunate to have Sherrie as Director of Spa, with over 18 years of experience as a trainer and educator. Sherrie says, “I take training very seriously as does Mandarin. Morning line-up, a quick review, is required every day, in additional monthly meetings are scheduled to re-
spa Spa Of The Month
SPECIAL EVENTS
Opening: February 2004
The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental D.C. hosts several special events throughout the year. To make each event unique and special, several months of planning with vendors take place to ensure the items needed arrive in a timely fashion. The spa team’s schedules are also adjusted to accommodate for events. Sherrie notes that they are “lucky to have a strong Events and Catering department” which she has worked with to develop “a strong relationship to assist in the process of special events.” The spa has also formed relationships with local institutions, such as the Smithsonian, which as helped increase exposure for both the hotel and the spa. In the future, Sherrie hopes to find local product vendors to carry in the spa’s retail area.
Amenities: vitality pool; plunge pool; sauna; crystal steam rooms; experience showers; 50 ft. heated pool
RETAIL view the month and plan for upcoming events. I also utilize the vendor partnerships to have the products/protocol experts share their insight with Spa Colleagues.” Consistency and quality of customer service is essential to meeting the standards of a Forbes Four Star Spa. Spa colleague performance is reviewed annually. Sherrie sits down with each team member and reviews his or her goals for the year. Spa management also reviews these goals and adds business goals, which are monitored and discussed every quarter. The spa’s management also undergoes training to help support their leadership growth, as provided by the Mandarin’s Managing Performance Development program. Keeping the team motivated is also an essential part of continuing success. Sherrie incentivizes her staff with hotel stays and free product to encourage them to increase their retail sales and upsell services. Recently, they added gift cards for the Spa Concierge at the front desk to help increase scores on quality calls.
The selection process for retail lines at The Spa at the Mandarin is intense. Spa Director Sherrie explains that, “We go beyond just smelling good, the packaging and the message. The products have to meet the four-star standard, which can be a major challenge.” Currently, the spa partners with Aromatherapy Associates and ESPA. Unique to the D.C. location is the addition of Biologique Recherche. The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental D.C. is also the only spa in the city which carries this exclusive line.
Client Ratio: 80 percent female, 20 percent male; 70 percent local, 30 percent non-local Staff to Guest Ratio: 4:1
Spa Director Spotlight Sherrie is a licensed massage therapist with a Bachelor’s degree in Biology and an MBA in Marketing and Entrepreneurship. Sherrie has been in the Spa industry for over 18 years and author of How to Open a Day Spa: 31-Day Guide. Sherrie joined Mandarin Oriental in December 2018 as the Director of Spa and Wellness in Washington, D.C.
Rundown The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental, Washington D.C. 1330 Maryland Avenue SW Washington, DC 20024
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that es-
202.787.6100
theticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
Spa Director: Sherrie Tennessee LNEonline.com
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Family Spa Packages 26
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Boost Revenue Before Heading Back to School by Cristina Beecham
Before heading back to school, families around the country are looking for ways to connect with their children before sending them off to friends and teachers for the fall. After a busy summer of fun in the sun, it can be hard for families to realign and refocus in preparation for the schedule change that happens once autumn rolls around. As family wellness continues to trend upward into 2020, consider offering family-centric packages to encourage parents and children to reconnect and ground themselves before the school year. This last summer push is sure to bring peace to children dreading the return to school, and is a great way for you to meet your end-of-summer revenue goals.
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spa Family Spa Packages
spend quality time together before and after their services. Allowing teens access to aquatic and thermal spa facilities is a great way for parents to teach their kids healthy relaxation habits. Establishing a precedent of self-care and wellness for children and teens will bring new business to the industry and secure future success. Opening a portion of these facilities to your younger guests is also an easy way to increase revenue, as the cost per person can be the same for each member of the family.
Lunch Is On Us
Family Spa Packages Family vacations are usually planned with the intention of strengthening relationships and creating memories that will last a lifetime. However, in today’s age of technology, it is not uncommon for these plans to be ruined by smartphones and video games, alike. Family spa treatments are a great a spa solution to this problem. Design spa packages that are customizable depending on the number of children and adults receiving treatments. Adult services should average 50 minutes of treatment time, and children’s’ services about 25 minutes in duration. Family spa packages are a great way to start educating children about wellness from a young age. Family spa treatments are a great way for children and families to de-stress. Time in the spa before the school year keeps them balanced, helps them form connections and allows the family to spend time together. If space allows, consider turning 28
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one of your large rooms into a designated Family Room. While these accommodations are ideal, not all spas have such large rooms available for families to enjoy simultaneously. If a spa doesn’t have this kind of space available, it is still possible to create a beautiful spa experience for the younger members of the family. It’s more about the education and introducing them to the spa experience. Offer mini services, like teaching them how to soak their feet, or use a heated neck towel after sitting at a computer for long periods of time. These gestures expand what the spa can do without having the facilities to do it.
Amenities for All Creating memorable spa experiences for families often requires re-thinking the age restrictions for certain spa amenities. While steam rooms and saunas are typically reserved for adult guests, opening up a portion of these relaxation areas allows families a place to
Amplify the revenue boosting potential of family spa treatments by inviting your guests to spend more than just a few hours at your spa. Include a lunch hour in your family spa day package and create a warm and inviting space for families to relax. Partner with a near by health food store or restaurant and offer catered options. The more time families spend at your location, the more opportunity you have to sell additional services and personalized retail items. Spa’s that offer family day packages experience revenue boosts in all of their departments. It’s also a great idea to put together amenity kits for the children: Mini takehome kits with facial and body products are fun tools for kids to learn and play with at home. Offer the parents a skin and body care set that will work for the whole family – these are a tangible memory of the time they spent together and an incentive to purchase product from your business in the future.
Skin Care for Teens As defined by the Global Wellness Institute, wellness is “a state of complete physical, mental, and social wellbeing.” When creating family spa treatments, it should be the goal of service providers to give each member of the family the most complete wellness experience possible. It is also the responsibility of service providers to edu-
spa Family Spa Packages
cate both children and parents on the benefits of spa and wellness therapy. Especially as summer comes to an end, children can be very hyper, and massage is a great way to work the body and burn excess energy, while at the same time relaxing the nervous system and boosting self-esteem. Facials also have similar relaxation benefits, as well as an added educational component in teaching children and teens to care for their changing skin. Most teenagers need some degree of acne treatment in their facials. But, it is the job of the esthetician to teach the client how to nourish their skin without over drying it. When creating family treatments, keep in mind that age determines much of what your client can tolerate. With younger guests, keep treatment times to 25-30 minutes. This is just enough time to educate the client, and the parent, without being so long that the child becomes restless. Children are fortunate to be far from the onset of aging, so save the more potent serums for mom and dad. Use a product line for sensitive skin that will both exfoliate and nourish the skin.
Easy Add Ons Here are some easy add-ons services that will bring family fun to your spa! • Offer a fancy foot soak – while children may not be able to enter the locker room facilities, you can convert a public area into a family relaxation zone.
what better way to make an impression than custom nail designs for tiny toes.
• A liability waiver should be signed by the child’s guardian before each service
• Bring the fun home ¬– send each family home with a piece of your spa. A group photo and amenity package is great retail add-on that will remind the family of the time they spent with your staff.
• Therapists and service providers should be properly trained in working with children
• Get your hands dirty – allow children and parents to mix their own DIY facemask before a facial treatment. Including them in the creation of their service is a fun way to educate them on beneficial skincare ingredients. Offer the mask as a take home amenity for an addition fee.
Remember the Rules
• Tailor-made toes – the key to making a connection is personalization. Families are seeking to create lasting memories;
• Maintain adult-only areas so that independent spa guests can remain unbothered
• Be sure to offer child-sized robes and sandals to avoid slips and falls
Having youngsters in the spa brings along a new set of risks. Keep in mind the following recommendations when creating family services: Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of
• Children under the age of 18 should be accompanied by an adult at all times
Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source
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for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
Spa
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NEWS Solar Defense Body Sunscreen Spray SPF 30 This SPF sun spray is water-resistant, hydrates and protects skin from UVA, UVB and infrared damage. Powerful antioxidants fight free radicals.
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Youth Transformation Glycolic Body Lotion 7% This moisturizing body lotion offers hydration and 7 percent glycolic acid with a blend of natural shea butter and cocoa butter as well as essential amino acids for optimum hydration and anti-aging.
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Silhouette Slimming Body Cream From Karin Herzog, Sihouette is the ultimate cellulite fighting 4 percent active oxygen body cream! Clinically proven to reduce cellulite and fatty deposits.
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Lucas Pulverizer from Equipro This must-have device can be used for the first phase of a facial cleansing or for postexfoliation. The strong mist allows for deep cleansing and removal of toxins. The lotion in the mist will help rebalance the skin’s PH.
equipro-bty.com 877.324.2226 LNEonline.com
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FIRST
IMPRESSIONS The Power of The Front Desk by Mika Diaz
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We all know that you can’t undo a bad first impression. But, what if the first impression of your business is not entirely in your hands? No matter how talented your estheticians are, a spa’s front desk holds all the marbles when it comes to making that important first impression when a client calls or first walks in the door. The client’s interaction with your receptionist or check-in staff should be treated as part of the treatment itself. In fact, it is just as important, if not more so, than the treatment, as the front desk is where the client will rebook or make a retail purchase. By training your front desk staff as though they, too, are providing a service to the client, you can create a unified and seamless spa experience for everyone who walks
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business First Impressions
FIRST IMPRESSIONS Each of your staff members interacts with clients, but your front desk has the important task of phone interactions. Phone calls are often the first impression a new client has of your establishment. Clients will ask themselves, “Do they sound educated? Do they seem trustworthy? Are they organized?” These are all aspects of your business that a client will decide before they ever walk through the door. Training the staff properly on phone etiquette, how to handle complaints, and how to schedule over the phone is vital. Your staff should know the schedule, and know the menu like the back of their hand to make the scheduling process as quick and seamless as possible for the client on the line. The ease with which
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your staff answers questions, resolves scheduling conflicts, and avoids placing guests on hold makes a big difference in the overall perception of your spa’s commitment to customer service.
CHECKING IN Though not the most enjoyable part of a spa experience, it is one that every client has, no matter what service they are receiving. Add the following to your front desk training program to make a great first impression: Every morning, your front desk staff should review the book for that day. Be aware of who is coming in, at what time, and for what service. This is the best time to catch scheduling mistakes and anticipate which enhancements to offer.
Greet the client by name (if known) as soon as they approach the desk! Confirm the service or services the client is scheduled for when they arrive. If there is a mistake, you don’t want to catch it when the client is in the locker room, or worse, after the treatment is finished. Acknowledging the service ahead of time removes room for error, and makes the client feel like you have been awaiting her arrival. Make sure that your front desk staff is using the level of language that you desire can make a huge difference in how your client is received. As the spa manager or owner, it’s important to lead by example when training your desk staff. Spending the majority of the day at the desk, checking in clients, is the best way for your employees to learn. They will see how you do it, and they will emulate it. Desk staff should never feel that their role is not important, or that you have a lower expectation level for them. Their job is vital to the success of the business, and your spending time at the desk will reinforce that notion.
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CONTINUITY FROM CHECK IN TO CHECK OUT Your estheticians and spa therapist are highly trained on the complex and varying protocols of each of your treatments. They know the products used, the ingredients, and for what type of client each service is intended. This knowledge should not be a secret! Your front desk staff should be just as educated about the treatments as your service providers are. The more detailed information your staff can give about a treatment, the more likely it is that your client will schedule. Making it more of a personal review, rather than a description of the menu, makes clients feel more trusting when deciding to book a service. The level of knowledge across all of your spa staff should be consistent. Just as the front desk should be aware of the products and ingredients used
in treatment, the therapists need to be aware of the check in/out process, as well as any cancellation or scheduling policies.
CLOSING THE DEAL The best time to schedule a client’s next appointment is when they are relaxed and satisfied after their present appointment. Don’t let a client slip through the door without interacting with your front desk before leaving. If you see a client approaching the door, ask them how their service was. Inquiring about the quality of the treatment is the first step to opening the dialogue about rescheduling. Should the client have any complaints, this is your chance to correct it and invite them back and ensure them that everything will be to their satisfaction when they return. If the client was completely satisfied, great! Invite him
Small discounts or incentives are also a great way to encourage rebooking. or her to return for another fabulous experience. Small discounts or incentives are also a great way to encourage rebooking. Give your staff the confidence and freedom to offer a 10% discount or free product samples if they feel that is the necessary push to get that client back in the door. Empower them!
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Tradeshow Talk Five #TradeshowFacts for the best tradeshow experience this year‌
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95% of a company’s success at a show depends on the aesthetic of the booth and the staff performance.
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Thousands of people will hear about the tradeshow experience through word of mouth and social media before, during and after the event!
83% of exhibitors prioritize building brand awareness during tradeshows.
Tradeshows are 100% the best way to strengthen existing client/vendor relationships and create new ones.
The average attendee spends 8.3 hours viewing exhibits at a show.
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• Come see crowd favorite Kelley Baker • Bustling tradeshow floors
Brows work her magic on one lucky audience member in Long Beach!
are our happy place!
he summer has flown by and it’s already time to gear up for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach! The Esthetician Edit duo is coming to Los Angeles to visit our favorite estys and give you a behind the scenes look at some of L.A.’s most exclusive spas and skin care studios! Don’t miss our adventures on Instagram! Follow us at @estheticianedit.
Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit
• Head to the Main Stage at 10a.m. on Sunday and Monday! Save a spot for your #estybesty
• Our skin care fairy godmother Nerida Joy will show you how she analyzes skin inch-by-inch!
Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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on Instagram to be featured!
@estheticianedit
Clay & Mud Benefits of Earth ingredients in the spa
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World of Clay Eight Clays from Around the World for Detoxifying by Darcy Evans
Clay has been used for centuries in skin care and seems to be ever-rising in popularity for both estheticians and at-home users. Marveled for its detoxifying and oil absorbing properties, clay skin care is a staple in every skin care specialist’s toolkit when treating clients with oily or acne prone skin types. Here are eight popular clays for skin treatment:
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Clay & Mud Guide
1. Bentonite Clay Bentonite clay is one of the most popular and powerful clay skin care ingredients. In fact, the U.S. is one of the top producers of bentonite clay world wide. Bentonite clay is derived from naturally occurring volcanic ash. It is a highly absorbent clay and has a high percentage of montmorillonite, a soft group of earth minerals. Bentonite clay draw impurities and oil to the surface of the skin and absorbs oil while tightening and toning the skin. When mixed with water, the clay swells, allowing for maximum absorption of sebum and surface debris. This impurity magnet is ideal for oily and congested skins who are acne prone, as well as clients with mild eczema and rosacea. Bentonite clay is also a great addition to foot and body treatments.
2. Umbrian Clay Umbrian Clay is a naturally occurring earth clay sourced from Umbria, Italy. 44
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It is highly absorbent and helps to both soothe and reduce breakouts and irritation. This anti-inflammatory clay has a high mineral content and helps to refine pores. Umbrian clay is popular in purifying masks and spot treatments.
3. French Green Clay French Green Clay is another popular and widely used clay for skin care. This mineral clay is harvested from naturally occurring deposits in the French landscape and has a soft, fine texture and beautiful green color due to iron oxide and plant matter found natural in the clay. Did you know there are two types of French Green Clay? French Green Montmorillonite Clay Unearthed in the South of France, French green montmorillonite has a much higher mineral content than illite
— it’s rich in magnesium, iron, manganese, calcium, silica and and nutrients. Its swelling, absorbing and remineralizing abilities make it ideal for body wraps, compresses, baths and face masks. Particularly, for oily complexions, a weekly mask can regulate skin’s sebum production. French Green Illite Clay Excavated from certain regions in the North of France and the Atlantic basin, French green illite is often referred to as sea clay or marine clay, due to the quarries being found in the ancient marine beds. This non-swelling clay has a lighter hue than montmorillonite and is superbly detoxifying. Its high absorptive capacity draws out toxins, and its negative ionic charge helps to attract, bind and eliminate positively charged impurities. In addition to decongesting problem complexions, its toning action stimulates the skin by
Clay & Mud Guide
bringing fresh blood to the surface, tightening pores and exfoliating dead skin cells. It’s commonly used in compresses, poultices, detox baths, face masks and body wraps.
4. French Red Illite Clay Similar to its green counterpart, French Red Illite clay has a strong negative charge and a high concentration of iron oxide, gifting this clay its rich red color-
ing and high mineral content. French Red Illite is an effective cleanser, detoxifier and exfoliant. It has the unique ability to simultaneously detoxifying and revive the skin, making it a good choice for aging skins prone to oiliness and congestion. When activated by contact with water, the ionic exchange draws out impurities and stimulates blood circulation by depositing essential nutrients. This process increases oxygen flow to your cells, boosts hydration, aids in healing, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles and broken capillaries.
5. Rhassoul Clay or Moroccan Red Clay Rhassoul Clay is derived from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. It has been used for centuries and is a beloved earth material. This clay is rich in ancient minerals and has a high concentration of
silica and magnesium. Rhassoul Clay, also called Moroccan Red Clay, is effective at decongesting pores, absorbing excess oil, and drawing out toxins. It also improves elasticity and stimulates circulation. This clay mixes well with water and can be used an effective facial and body cleanser.
6. Fuller’s Earth Clay (Multani Mitti Clay) Fuller’s Earth clay is a powerful oil absorbing clay. Also known as Multani Mitt Clay, this sedimentary clay has effective pore purifying and drying properties. It also has mild bleaching properties and is used in some skin-lightening treatments to help fade pigment discolorations on the skin. While this clay is great for reducing dark spots and acne, be careful to only use Fuller’s Earth Clay on clients with true oily skin. Acne
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Clay & Mud Guide
clients with dehydrated to surface dry skin will find this clay too drying overall to be beneficial at treating their acne.
7. Cambrian Blue Clay Derived from Siberian Lakes, this clay is another great choice for clarifying, detoxifying and balancing. It is one of the oldest clays found in nature, and is rich in a variety of earth minerals, giving it strong detoxifying capabilities and absorbing power for oily skin. Cambrian Blue Clay swells when combined with water, allowing the clay to draw out impurities and sink deeply into pores to purify. It is also effective a depuffing and tightening the skin. This strong clay is ideal for spot treating acne breakouts or treating overall oily skin.
Types of Kaolin Clay:
White Kaolin Clay The mildest of all clays, white kaolin is less absorbent than other varieties and is highly moisturizing, making it perfect for those with sensitive, aging and especially dry skin.
Yellow Kaolin Clay
Red Kaolin Clay
This mild cosmetic clay is suitable for most skin types — particularly normal and sensitive. It helps stimulate circulation and promote cell regeneration, while cleansing to remove impurities (without stripping natural oils) and gently exfoliating skin. It is popular in brightening treatments.
The most purifying of the cosmetics clays, red kaolin is best for oily skin should not be used on clients with dry, sensitive or mature skin. It purifies, cleanses and removes toxins, dirt, excess oil and surface debris, making it ideal for weekly detoxifying face and body masks.
Rose Kaolin Clay 8. Kaolin Clay Kaolin is derived from rock in humid climates. It is one of the most popular and widely used clays. Kaolin is great for gentle exfoliation, cleansing and stimulating.
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A mix of red and white clays, pink kaolin is mildly detoxifying and exfoliating; it increases circulation, and reduces irritation and inflammation — making it ideal for normal and combination complexions.
Darcy Evans is a holistic esthetician and massage therapist. With over 20 years experience as an herablist, she has a passion for educating about natural ingredients.
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Clay &
Mud Wraps
Body treatments for toning and detoxifying by Aurora Solis
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Body wraps using clays, muds and other earth materials promote slimming and toning of the body; hydration and skin firming; relaxation and soothing sore muscles and detoxification. Clients are typically wrapped in mud or special body treatment sheets to receive therapeutic benefits beyond what they can achieve at home. There are several types of clay and mud wraps, along with other body wrap materials that can be combined for different treatment goals.
CLAY AND MUD BODY WRAPS
Mud Wrap A mud wrap consists of a layer of therapeutic mud that is applied to the skin to detoxify, cleanse, and firm the skin. The anti-stress properties of the mud ease water retention and cleanse the pores by drawing out impurities. Disease-carrying microorganisms can live in mud, so high quality muds are particularly essential for effective treatment. Mud treatments usually include a dry brush exfoliant, mud application and wrap, guided relaxation, shower and massage with steam before or after to enhance the results. Dead sea mud is a popular choice for mud body wraps. Dead sea mud is harvested from the waters of the ancient Dead Sea, which has long be renowned for its healing properties and high concentration of minerals such as magnesium, potassium, sodium, bromine and calcium. After a dead sea mud wrap, clients may experience relief from aching joints, stiffness, skin problems and other toxic aliments. Mud wraps are recommended for: • Acne • Eczema • Psoriasis • Arthritis • Bone and cartilage inflammation • Rheumatism • Stress • Fatigue • Sleeplessness • Anti-aging • Cellulite reduction • Detoxification
Clay Wraps Clay wraps are similar to mud wraps and often include the addition of essential oils to promote relaxation. Clay body treatments have been found to be effective in the treatment of athlete’s foot and to decrease the healing time of wounds. One of fhe most effective anti-oxidant and anti-aging clay wraps is French Red Clay. This blend purges toxins, leaving the skin soft and remineralized with a noticeable glow. Vitamin E, grape seed, bladderwrack, irish moss, and sage essential oils can be infused into these clays. French red clays is also rich in magnesium, vitamins A, B, B12 and E, iron and amino acids. Clay wraps are beneficial for: • Acne • Toning • Remineralization • Detoxifying
MORE BODY WRAPS Other types of detoxifying and relaxing body treatments that can be added to clay and mud treatments include: Algae wrap: warmed algae can be applied to the entire body to nourish and detoxify the skin. Chocolate wrap: chocolate is recognized for its anti-aging and toning properties. It stimulates endorphins, softens the skin, tones the skin, and plumps out wrinkles. Cold wraps: these are effective treatments designed to control excess fluid in the hip, leg, and thigh areas. It is good for cellulite and fluid retention and relieves tired legs.
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Clay & Mud Guide
Seaweed wrap: this is a combination of seawater and seaweed that hydrates and firms the skin. Cellulite treatment wrap: boosts circulation and flushes out toxins. These wraps target the bottom and thighs. Herbal wrap: uses herbs selected for their nourishing properties. The herbs are blended with oils and steeped in very hot water. Cloth sheets are then soaked in the solution and wrapped around the body. It removes dead skin cells and nourishes the skin. Bust wrap: a firming serum or mask is used around the bust area to tone and moisturize this delicate skin. Paraffin wrap: warm paraffin wax is brushed over the body. It is designed to reduce muscle and joint aches and soothe the symptoms of arthritis. Parafango wrap: fango is the Italian word for mud. This wrap uses warmed paraffin and mud to create a mini-sauna effect to stimulate the body’s lymphatic flow and draw out toxins. Oil wrap: aromatherapy oils are used to moisturize dry or dehydrated skin. Warm oil with beneficial essential oils can be of great benefit if the client can handle the aromatherapy oils.
CONTRAINDICATIONS Spa wraps should be adjusted and customized to meet each individual client’s needs. Heated body wraps can cause sweating. It’s important to stay alert to the amount your client is sweating, as too much sweat can lead to dehydration. Profuse sweating also leads to changes in blood chemistry, reducing blood volume and sending less oxygen to the cells. Weakness, dizziness, confusion, coma and even death can result because of excessive fluid loss. 50
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If your client is undergoing cancer treatment and is having a body wrap at your spa, your spa therapist is not be qualified to deal with any of these reactions.
PRESCRIPTION MEDICATIONS It’s important to note which medications clients are on, as certain ingredients in the wrap may interact as they’re absorbed through the skin.
CONSULTATION
MEDICAL CONDITIONS
Before beginning a body wrap service, it’s essential to conduct a proper client consultation and skin analysis to help determine two things: whether or not a client is fit to receive a body wrap; and to identify any specific factors that may impact how you conduct their service. These are both extremely important in order to ensure the client’s safety, best possible results and to protect you from liability. The client should fill out a signed consultation form answering questions about any of the following to reveal potential contraindications:
Many illnesses will be contraindicated with body wraps, or necessitate a medical release.
ALLERGIES
Some ingredients (or wraps in general) will not be suitable to use on clients with certain skin conditions.
PREGNANCY & BREASTFEEDING Expectant mothers and lactating women should not receive body wraps. Dislike of heat or claustrophobia. Clients who can’t stand being hot or physically constricted will not enjoy a body wrap, which tightly compresses and warms the body for a sustained period of time.
SKIN CONDITIONS The last thing you want your client to take away from your body wrap service is an allergic reaction. Topically, this can appear in the form of irritation, rash, or possibly worse complications when ingredients penetrate beyond skin deep.
SKIN ANALYSIS During the skin analysis, you will be able to note possible contraindications or
Clay & Mud Guide
other relevant facts that the consultation form may not: • Open wounds, signs of recent surgery such as scars • Skin conditions • Signs of inflammation, eruptions or infections • Skin type
SETTING EXPECTATIONS It’s important for your clients to understand what to expect in terms of results. For example, clients receiving an inch loss wrap should know the realistic range of loss measurement. If the
inch loss will take place over the next several days rather than hours, make sure they understand that the effect will not be immediate. Clients should be aware of any side effects they may experience following the body wrap so they’re not concerned when they experience the following symptoms:
Explain to your clients that for all of these symptoms, drinking plenty of water can speed up recovery by helping to flush out the toxins.
BLOATING
• For showerless treatments, clients should avoid getting wet or taking a shower for at least eight hours to allow the beneficial wrap ingredients to be fully absorbed.
Sometimes people experience bloating initially after wrapping as the ingredients work to break down and remove the toxins.
FLU-LIKE SYMPTOMS As the body rids itself of toxins, clients may experience mild flu like symptoms. This is more likely for newcomers to body wrap treatments.
FATIGUE
AFTER CARE Finish your consultation by letting clients know what they need to do to maximize their results.
• Drink at least 64 ounces water each day for several days following the wrap to help flush the toxins. • For inch loss or contouring wraps, practice healthy diet and exercise habits to sustain results.
Clients may feel unusually tired as their body eliminates the toxins.
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Detoxify and Rejuvenate! Clays and muds for the face and body... 1
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9. Balance Body Wrap - Dry Base • Makes Scents • makesscentsspaline.com 10. Detox Charcoal Clearing Mask • Saian • saian.net 11. Deep Cleansing Clay Masque • Rose Mira • rosemira.com 12. CTRL Soothing Mask • GR8/SKN • gr8skn.com 13. Dead Sea Mud Facial Mask • Rinse Bath & Body Co. • rinsesoap.com 14. Prickly Pear Facial Exfoliant • Travertine Spa • travertinespa.com 15. Pure Mask • G.M. Collin • gmcollin.com
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8. CharColate Masque • Hale Cosmeceuticals • halecosmeceuticals.com 9. Veggie Clay Mask • Prana SpaCeuticals • pranaspaceuticals.com 10. Enzyme Peel • Eve Taylor • evetaylornorthamerica.com 11. French Clay Mask • Eco Sevi • ecosevi.com 12. Balance Body Wrap - Activator • Makes Scents • makesscentsspaline.com 13. Green Tea Clay Pultice • BiON Skin Care • bionresearch.com 14. Thermal Brightening Mask • Clear Choice • dermastart.com 15. Kaolin and Herbs Mask • Cinq Mondes • cinqmondes.com
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Spirulina Skin Care
Super Greens for Skin Health by Aurora Solis
Fitting greens into our diet seems to become easier and more accessible every year. From green smoothies and juices to powders and plant-based comfort foods, eating veggies is no longer a burden on our taste buds. Greens are full of beneficial vitamins and minerals. And as it turns out, they are just as good for outer beauty and health as they are for inner health and wellness. Greens are making their way into skin care and body care products through way of the latest trending superfood: Spirulina. Let’s uncover the what, why and how of spirulina skin care.
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organic & wellness Spirulina Skin Care
What is Spirulina? Spirulina is a natural organism that grows in fresh and salt water. In fact, spirulina is likely one of the oldest forms of life on Earth! Also known as blue-green algae, spirulina is a cyanobacterium that is safe to be consumed by humans. The term Spirulina refers to the dried biomass of A. platensis, a particular species of cyanobacteria. Spirulina is mainly found in Africa, but is also found in Asia. A close relative cyanobacterium, A. maxima, is found in California and Mexico. Spirulina’s nutritional profile makes it one of today’s most popular superfoods. It contains healthy amounts of: • calcium • iron • magnesium • phosphorus • potassium • vitamin C • thaimin • riboflavin • niacin • folate • vitamin B6 • vitamin A • vitamin K
Spirulina has also been shown to assist with weight loss, as it is a high-nutrient and low calorie food. Studies suggest that spiraling may also assist in promoting gut health because of its easily digestible nature. It has also been shown to help lower blood sugar and improve liver enzyme markers in mice and to help lower cholesterol. A small 2014 study showed that people who took six grams of spiraling daily experience beneficial metabolic effects and weight loss.
Spirulina in Skin Care With its rich nutrient profile, spirulina may help enhance the overall appearance and radiance of skin. With vitamins, fatty acids and amino acids, spirulina helps: • decrease inflammation • tone the skin • encourage cellular turnover • detoxify When taken both orally and applied topically to the skin, spirulina works best at promoting a healthy glow from within. Spirulina is also rich in phytonutrients and carotenoids, antioxidants that help fight free radicals and protect the skin. Spirulina is especially effective at treating acne, as it helps reduce inflammation and increase the skin’s metabolism.
Spirulina Facial Spirulina is making its way into cleansers, moisturizers and especially facial masks. When combined with other plantbased ingredients, spirulina makes for a deliciously green facial smoothie of vitamins and minerals to help brighten the skin and improve overall wellness. Spirulina is popularly sold in powder form. Add it to clay and other powder based masks to add a superfood punch to any clarifying and brightening facial treatment. Also, look for spirulina in lightweight, oil-free moisturizers targeted towards oily skin and acne.
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Fall
As summer comes to an end, clients are surely sad to pack away their liquid bronzers and dewy highlighters that were summer staples this season. Summer makeup trends are reminiscent of fun in the sun, glistening (faux) tans, and longlasting tangerine lips. But just as the fleeing season brings about a new one, so do the makeup trends that go along with it. This year’s fall makeup trends pack a punch that is sure to knock out any summertime sadness as September approaches.
Makeup Trends
Eight Looks to Try This Fall by Maria Camille Arias
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image Fall Makeup Trends
mature clients looking to vamp up their makeup style. Pair sultry eyes with a soft peach cheek and barely-there lip color for a cohesive and harmonious look.
1. Matte Red Lips
Pro Tip:
4. Jolt of Neon
Move over, lip stains and make room for velvety matte red lips. This season, long-lasting, bold and blood red lips are trending! Pair this look with a clean base and minimal blush for a modern and edgy vibe.
Apply a light neutral or peachy blush across the apples of the cheeks. After applying a light brown shade through the crease, use the same blush to dust a soft pink halo at the outer edge of the transition color. This will give a hint of rose when the client’s eye are wide open without being overly dramatic or giving off 80’s vibes! Finish with a soft pink lip balm.
A bold pop of color is making its way into fall catalogues this year. Don’t shy away! There are simple and minimalistic ways to add a hint of neon orange, yellow or pink to any eye look.
Pro Tip: Dust a layer of translucent powder over your favorite lipstick to mattifying without drying. This technique also amps up the staying power of cream lipstick formulas. Don’t forget to clean the lip line with concealer for a professional and polished finish.
2. Monochromatic Petal Pink Soft pink blush is paired with a flush of pink shadow and a balm-like pink lip this fall. This overall rosy hue offers a youthful glow that appears to be lit-from-within.
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3. Natural Smoke Sultry, smokey eyes are back in season! If been longing for smudge liner all summer, now’s your chance to set the trend in your makeup studio. Cream shimmer shadows offer a modern finish in hues of dimensional grey and brown.
Pro Tip: Sleek winged liner is the best way to experiment with color! Pick up a few neon shades and offer clients a thin, streamlined cat eye using a neon shade complimentary to their skin tone. When using neon yellow, make sure your client’s lashes still pop by tight-lining the upper waterline with waterproof black liner. This will makeup the lash line is visible without disrupting the neon liner.
5. Terra Cotta Magic
Pro Tip: An elongated shadow lifts the eye and will make this look more suitable for
Monochrome is finding another way into our look book this fall. Terra cotta lips, cheeks and eyes are a perfect
image Fall Makeup Trends
Glitter works best when patted in with the finger... trio. Warm reds pressed into the lips for a stain-like finish and accompanied by matte reddish brow shadow and a creamy terracotta cheek.
Pro Tip: Make this look more wearable by choosing one statement feature. Whether it’s the eyes, the lips or the cheeks, make one of these features opaque. For the others, use creamy formulas with a blending sponge for a sheer finish.
6. Glitter! For all you makeup artists why jump at the change to crack open your glitter palettes, brace your selves! Glitter is trending this fall. From a light dusting
of loose shimmer of the eye lids and cheek bones, to full-on gun metal glitter smokey eyes, any and all ways of incorporating glitter will have you at the top of the trend charts this season!
Pro Tip: For a trendy contrast, pair plum lips with lavender shadow. This contrast is eye catching and bold while remaining subtle and wearable! This looks best on cooler skin tones.
Pro Tip: When convincing a client to try glitter, start by offering a light dusting of chunky shimmer across the lids to top off the eyeshadow. Once they catch themselves in the mirror, they won’t be able to resist! Always use a sticky base and remember that glitter works best when patted in with the finger, rather than with a brush.
8. Doe Eyed Lashes
7. Plum Picks
Pro Tip:
Another choice color this season: plum. This deep berry shade is flattering on most skin tones ranging from pale ivory to deepest ebonies. Opt for creamy, opaque lips and a soft shimmery eye for a monochromatic whisper of plum.
Keep the rest of this look fresh with matte cheeks and lips. This 60’s inspired look is all about the eyes, so don’t over emphasize any other areas of the face through harsh contouring and highlighting.
Chunky lashes can be cool, if executed properly. Apply several layers of mascara and apply individual lashes to fill in any gaps and lengthen the lashes. Using a black liner, draw fine hairlike strokes along the lower lash line for a trendy look. Thin lines keep this wearable and not Halloween makeup.
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Feel
Brow
the
Energy! with Barbie
Zarraga, Browaholic Cosmetics
SERVICE What is the best part about being a brow artist? The best part of being an eyebrow artists is to see the satisfaction of my clients after I finish doing their eyebrows. Each person presents a different case, for which I have to adjust to his or her eyebrow needs individually. When it comes to taking care of a new client, sometimes they get scared because they have spent months without touching their eyebrows and their expectations about me are high; but once I do my magic, they all feel beautiful, empowered and happy! Believe me when I tell you that a good pair of eyebrows can make your entire the day!
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When did you decide to focus on brows as your main service? When I immersed myself in the beauty industry eight years ago, eyebrows were not so important, so my experience was based on a "trial and error" type of thing. At that time, unlike makeup or hair, there were no trainings or tutorials to explain how to properly do this service. But once I felt that my results were getting better and better, the demand from my clients was much higher! It was at that moment where my schedule was filling up with eyebrow appointments. At that time, I only offered waxing but the eyebrow market has grown so much that I have had to learn threading, tint and henna application, microblading, among others!
What approaches did you take to master your craft? My passion for eyebrows began in my homecountry, Venezuela in 2011. Back
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then, there were no beauty schools or trainings in my country that would give me a better education. My technique developed as I experimented with clients. However, it was when I moved to the United States in 2014 that I had the opportunity to attend to a beauty institute and that I had more access to online material. Having two jobs at that time helped me save a lot of money to pay for trainings, travel, and conventions that are still very valuable to me to continue improving my technique and expand my knowledge.
What is the most difficult part about being a brow artist? I would say that one of the most difficult yet exciting things about my career is dealing with all of the different face shapes and personal tastes! Bringing our client’s wishes to life sometimes can be challenging, especially with all the pictures they see of celebrities and
Barbie Zarraga their fabulous eyebrows through social media. To me, it is very important to deliver a big transformation but also maintain their natural brow pattern.
WORK AREA How do you keep your brow station organized and functional? I’m currently located in a small studio in which I only have two chairs and a couple of cabinets. However, organization is crucial to me! It not only helps with the environment overall, but also with my team and I can focus a little better when everything is nice and clean. Organization is extremely important and your clients notice this too.
How would you describe your work area décor? What inspired these choices? One thing I can say for a fact is that our clients love to come to our cozy space! It’s super cute and it definitely describes the brand. I would describe our décor as a combination of funky, modern and colorful. We have neon signs with catchy quotes, vibrant colors on the walls and a selection of amazing products with lots of color that add a special touch to the space. These choices were definitely inspired by my personality. I have a young and bubbly spirit and I want my clients to get that feel. Anyone that walks in to my space feels a great vibe!
MARKETING How do you promote your brow services? Thanks to my client referrals and word of mouth, my social media grows a little more each day. That’s number one! I feel like when women like something, we make sure we share it with our girl gang, family members and even strangers. Also, taking nice pictures and videos are extremely important to promote our services.
How do you stay consistent with social media posts? I try to have as much content as possible, and I’m talking about “before and after” pics, videos showing the different services, and breaking down the products I use to style my client’s eyebrows.
Do you have a signature brow style that you promote? I do! I offer the “Brow Therapy” and Brow Rehab.” Brow Therapy consists of shaping the brow according to every client’s face structure and personal wishes. I can shape the eyebrows with waxing, threading or a combination of both and I finish the shaping process by perfecting the lines with our “Viva La Brow” tweezer and scissor set. The Brow Rehab” includes our signature brow shaping technique and we enhance it with a special tint or henna that will add some fierceness to those bushy friends!
INSIDER TIPS What trends are you currently seeing in the industry? Less is more, my friends! Thin brows were in back in the day, but not anymore. Thick brows are coming to stay and I love it! We see this even more on our favorite celebrities. More celebrities are letting their brows grow to keep them as natural as possible, some others couldn’t bring their bushy brows back so they opted to get them microbladed since it’s one of the most semi permanent solutions that looks more. One of my favorite trends is the feathered, wispy look.
How do you perform consultations? Once new clients sit on my chair I like to have a little chat with them to get to know a bit more about them and their eyebrows. First thing I ask is, when was
the last time they got their brows done, it doesn’t matter if their brows still have bold spots or if they are bushy, this answer will help me understand a little more about their growth cycle. Then, I evaluated their skin to determine which method will suit them best: if waxing or threading. Sometimes I ask them to show me a picture of how they usually fill in their brows. We talk about their daily skin care routine as well as the makeup products they’re using to fill them in. At the end of the service, I like to give them suggestions about some of the products they can find on the market so they can kind of maintain at home what we did at the studio.
Do you have ritua ls or methods of crea ting positive energy fo r your spa?
Yes, here are a few
:
1. Always showing up wi
th a great attitude help s with the entire salon experie nce. A lot of our clients feel ve ry comfortable with our perso nality. Our goal is to make them feel they’re sharing beauty tip s with their girlfriends.
2. At the end of the day, we like to light up a Palo Sa nto stick to clear our energy fie ld. 3. We are a small team of three and we make sure to cheer up each other by comp limenting our work. That lifts up our energy and pushes us to grow individually and as a team.
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Image
1
VISIT LNEONLINE.COM FOR MORE NEWS
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Page Number
35................. Advanced Esthetics / Adonyss.................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 7................... Advanced Medical Aesthetic Solution............................................................................ meditimeusa.com 76................. Altair Instruments...................................................................................................... altairinstruments.com 5................... Celluma...............................................................................................................................biophotas.com 60................. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc........................................................................................................ dr-jeff.com 51................. Dermaswiss..................................................................................................................... dermaswiss.com 18................. EuroSpa Aromatics.................................................................................................eurospaaromatics.com 2,3,63........... Eminence Organic Skin Care..................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 75................. Equipro USA..................................................................................................................... equipro-bty.com 61................. Grande Cosmetics........................................................................................................grandelashmd.com 36................. Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................................................................halecosmeceuticals.com 20,21............ Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach...................................... LongBeach.skincareshows.com 56,57............ Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami....................................................... Miami.skincareshows.com 39................. Industry Cosmetics...............................................................................................................gomyskin.com 37................. Lira Clinical.......................................................................................................................... liraclinical.com 47................. Rapidlash/Rocasuba............................................................................................................. rapidlash.com 73................. Rejuvi Laboratory................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 9................... Skin Accents.....................................................................................................................skinaccents.com 17................. Skin Script Skin Care.......................................................................................................... skinscriptrx.com 29................. Viktoria Dé Ann............................................................................................................. viktoriadeann.com
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We manufacture to your highest
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Proudly made in The USA and CANADA For your nearest distributor or for a 2019 brochure, call this toll-free number 1-877-324-2226 Visit us at the Long Beach Congress booths #235, 237, 334, 336
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We are commemorating 20 years of beautiful skin with our very own custom DiamondTome signature scent. Available in two sizes, the “Wind & Wave” candle shares its name with our New Anniversary Edition of the NewApeel Exfoliation System. The soy, hand-poured Wind & Wave candle evokes the smells of a day of sailing. Enjoy the scent of sea salt, jasmine, green leaves and cedar as they breezily fill your room.
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