LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals June 2019
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FROM THE
EDITOR
Bio-Therapeutic
TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED
SKIN CARE
School’s out for summer! It’s finally time to relax and enjoy a well-deserved vacation – but not so fast! For spa owners, estheticians and beauty professionals, the summertime can be your most profitable time of year if you plan accordingly. With clients getting ready for bikini season and seasonal tourists flooding the city, eye-catching summer specials and body treatments will fly off the shelves this summer.
If you don’t currently have summer themed spa services on your menu, let our Summertime Guide lead the way! From how to properly educate your clients on SPF to making faux tans last your client’s entire vacation, our certified experts show you how to make bank this summer.
And, don’t miss this month’s Spa of the Month. Cure de Repos in Philadelphia, PA is owned by Chrissy Dress, whom many of you saw on the Main Stage at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia performing an expert dermaplaning demonstration. Turn to page 18 to see how she operates her own skin care boutique with professionalism and attention to detail.
Happy summer!
All the best,
bio-therapeutic.com
Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com 4
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Celebrating 45 Years of Skin Care Excellence
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bio-therapeutic.com/v2 @biotherapeutic
June volume 34 number 6
contents 4
Bioactive Peptides
From the Editor Advertiser Index
42
Increase Your SPF IQ
46
Healthy Summer Skin
52
Summer Proof Tan
58
Glow & Protect Photo Feature
41 Summertime Guide
18
Spa of the Month
64
Imbalance to Balance
22
Jet Lag Recovery
68
Natural Sunburn Soother
28
Dallas 2019 Recap
72
Organic & Wellness News
30
Spa News
o&w
10 Hyaluronic Acid and Bioactive Peptides
22 Jet Lag Recovery
64 Imbalance to Balance
32
Strategies for Leasing Your Spa
74
38
Business News
40
#esty2esty
32 Strategies for Leasing Your Spa
image
business
spa
skin
15 Skin News
guide
10 Hyaluronic Acid and
82
Summer Proof Makeup with Beke Beau
76
Summer Lash Care
80
Image News
76 Summer Lash Care
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Beke Beau Briana McKee Carrie Borzillo Cristina Beecham
Dale Willerton Halley Hargonich Lindy Williams
Elizabeth Brasher Susan Wade Veronique Munro
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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Hyaluronic Acid AND Bioactive
Peptides The key to producing natural hyaluronic acid by Susan Wade, M.ED., L.E.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) has become a popular ingredient used in many cosmeceutical products and is heavily marketed to practitioners and consumers. It is well known for its humectant capabilities to combat dehydration, accelerated aging or an impaired barrier system. HA contributes to the skin’s natural moisturizing factor, wound healing and contributes to the majority of the extra cellular matrix (ECM). Skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, actinic keratosis and contact dermatitis can also be linked to a lack of HA production. There is a plethora of information involving HA, yet confusion has surfaced concerning the correct molecular weight, efficacy and the ability to penetrate beyond the stratum corneum. A common description for HA states, “It is a natural humectant capable of holding 1,000 times its own weight in water and is the body’s natural hydrator.” This statement will draw the practitioner and customer towards implementing this ingredient without being fully aware of the penetration levels of low, high or fragmented molecular weights, its efficacy or the bioavailability of the product. This article will attempt to provide clarity about the penetration, the different levels of molecular weight, and how bioactive peptides are able to influence the cells to produce their own natural production as a viable alternative. Let’s begin with understanding HA, its primary function and its location in the body.
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skin Hyaluronic Acid and Bioactive Peptides
Hyaluronic acid: Definition and function Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide glycosaminoglycan (GAG) produced by fibroblasts and found in the extracellular matrix (ECM). Researchers of hyaluronic acid found HA to consist of a vast number of configurations and shapes depending upon its molecular size, sodium concentration, and pH level. (1) It is produced by specific enzymes found in the inner surface of cell membranes called hyaluronic synthases (HAS). This is also the site that synthesizes hyaluronic acid and extracts it through the structure and finally into the extracellular space. (3) In the dermis, the fibroblast cells produce collagen, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), reticular and elastic fiber. Hyaluronic acid is considered to be a type of GAG that promotes collagen synthesis, repair, and hydration. GAGs provide the structural integrity in the extra-cellular matrix (ECM) which is an interwoven mesh of fibrous proteins and glycosaminoglycans. Water is attracted and binds to GAGs and contains 1,000-fold more volume of water facilitating ECM space and tissue hydration. (2) According to one research finding, fifty percent of the body’s hyaluronic acid is found primarily in the skin. Hyaluronic acid is also found in joints (synovial fluid), portions of the eye, umbilical cord, lungs, heart valves and all tissues and fluids of the body. HA is also present on the inner surface of the cell’s membrane and is able to be transferred out of the cell during biosynthesis. However, the predominant component of the ECM is hyaluronic acid. The average 154-pound person has 15 grams of hyaluronic acid in the body, one-third of which is recycled and synthesized every day. (2) Another study states that HA provides cellular “cues” or signals through receptors to regulate inflammation and tissue repair. (3)
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Understanding molecular weight in HA Molecular weight has become one of the most confusing components regarding HA. While different weights are functional within the skin, it is important to ascertain how the skin, as an organ, utilizes or functions when present. One important function of HA is to provide both structure and regulation. (3) Controlling the integrity of tissues, cellular inflammatory responses as well as recognizing smaller fragmented HA is part of the cell’s regulatory role. This regulatory component is constantly working towards homeostasis. When inflammation occurs, cells are immediately triggered to respond. The production of increased HA has to keep pace with the degradation and turnover; otherwise, unwanted skin conditions occur. (4) Low molecular weight HA is considered to be 20 kDa. Research has shown that this weight inhibits lipid peroxidation and has superior radical scavenging activity. It is also found to be pro-inflammatory and is associated
with premature aging. Other research reports that low molecular weight HA has the ability to increase fibrosis and is found to cause cancer cells to hijack other cells for the purpose of growth, invasion and metastatic spread. (3) However, the low molecular weight HA of 50 kDa is considered to be safe (2). High molecular weight HA is considered to be over 800 kDa and is shown to be space filling. It is hydrating and inhibits the production of new blood vessels (anti-angiogenic) and can mediate tumor resistance. (2) The degradation of HA into smaller fragments is called fragmented HA. This event usually occurs after an injury where reactive oxygen damage is present or when low levels of pH occur on the skin (chemical peels with microneedling). (3) According to one study, HA is able to penetrate regardless of its molecular weight. (2) The findings of this study suggest that HA has the ability to penetrate through the epidermis passively, but may be facilitated by active transport.
skin Hyaluronic Acid and Bioactive Peptides
Practitioners may have implemented modalities to assist with the transport of HA without fully knowing the molecular weight and the conditions it causes within the skin. Another study reports that dermal absorption can occur based on carriers, penetration enhancers and molecular size. (3) According to Dr. Lance Setterfield, HA is used in fillers to add volume. The HA used in this treatment is more expensive because a stabilizing component through crosslinking has been added. It is important to note that cosmeceuticals do not add this component to their products, resulting in HA lasting less than a day in the skin. (4) Therefore, some professionals are resorting to micro-needling modalities to apply topical HA into the skin to provide increased transdermal delivery. However, this modality produces yet another problem. During micro-needling, according the Setterfield, HA is degraded by the needles and the natural enzymes within a day or two because it triggers an enzyme called hyaluronidase. This enzyme breaks down hyaluronic acid. (4) In addition to this trigger, large molecular weight HA promotes cellular signals through their receptors to then regulate inflammation and tissue repair.
References: 1. Jegasothy, S, Zabolotniaia, V, Biefifeldt, S, “efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans, The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2014, Mar 7 3) 27-29 2. Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid: Its Effects on Epidermal Gen Expression and Skin Ageing. Farwich, M, Lersch P, Sturutz, G; SOFW Journal 11-2008. International Journal for Applied Science 3. Setterfield, L., MD., Dermal Needling, Dec. 2017, “HA – No Laughing Matter” pg. 168-181 4. Litwiniuk M., Krejner A., Speyrer MS. Gauto Ah, Grzela T. Hyaluronic Acid in Inflammation and Tissue Regeneration Wound, 2016,28(3) 78-88. www.ncbi.jim.nih.gov/pubmed 5. Papakonstantinou, E, Roth, M., Karakiulakis, G, “Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging” Dermato-Endocrinology 4:3, 253-258; July-December 2012
Susan Wade joined Viktoria De’Ann in 2015. After 15 years of higher education, owning her own sports conditioning business, and working on her second Master’s in Kinesiology, she became a licensed Esthetician. Susan’s passion is educating clients about health, nutrition and physiology
Bioactive peptides as a natural solution to HA Bioavailable peptides are a viable solution to produce HA naturally. Peptides, if bioavailable, are able to encourage HA production in the ECM through hyaladherins. Hyaladherins are proteins or peptides that function as cell communicators. These hyaladherins are capable of binding to hyaluronic acid, providing cellular adhesion. (3) In the article, “Signaling Peptides and Skin Strength,” the term adherins was referred to as structures essential for the development of connective tissue. This connective tissue provides structure and strength to the skin. Hyaladherins are similar to adherins because they provide structure and hydration to the skin. Additionally, bioavailable peptides have the ability to attach to the cell’s receptor site. As natural cell communicators, peptides can signal the cell to perform a very particular function. In this case, the signal or message would be to synthesize hyaluronic acid. During the biofeedback loop, homeostasis involves, recognizing the smaller hyaluronic acid fragments (byproducts of degradation of the large native molecules) as distress signals and the need to create more normal hyaluronic acid. According to the authors of “Hyaluronic Acid,” the most dramatic change in aging skin is the marked disappearance of epidermal hyaluronic acid. This provides a significant opportunity for the use of bioactive peptides without disrupting the homeostasis, the cellular structure and regulation.
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# LBcongress19 16
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Long Beach, CA
September 8 & 9, 2019 Long Beach Convention Center
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Business Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
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CURE DE REPOS Much More Than A Makeup Bar
SPA OF THE MONTH
by Cristina Beecham
Cure de Repos is a dynamic skin care boutique that is breathing new life into Chesnut Hill. With high-end products and luxurious treatments, Cure de Repos is cosmopolitan without being pretentious. The spa’s quaint window display and inviting aromas draw city dwellers in for a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle where they can work on achieving the best skin of their lives. With no shortage of high-tech treatments and award winning services, Cure de Repos exceeds client expectations and leaves them coming back for more.
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spa Spa Of The Month
Signature Treatment Spa owner and director Chrissy Dress says Cure de Repos’ Oxygen Facial (60-minutes, $160) is the most popular treatment. In fact, this service is so popular that Chrissy recently purchased a second OxygenO+ machine, calling the results “outstanding.” Chrissy goes on to describe the treatment: “We first start out using the Hyoil cleansing system by Babor, which helps to prep the skin for the next steps. We add steam and apply the neo peptide serum to the décolletage, neck and face. Next, we use the sodium bicarbonate enzyme cap that fits into the machine’s wand head and apply it to the skin over top of where the neo peptide serum was applied. This process creates a CO2 rich environment, signaling to the body to send blood rich cells to that area and oxygenate the cells from within. This process can feel quite intense if the skin’s pH is off.” The serums are removed with a warm towel. Afterwards, the esthetician applies another peptide serum to prep the skin for massage performed with the device. Chrissy says, “This step helps to gently move lymph and toxins, creates micro-circulation, brightens the skin and reduces any redness. It’s pretty impressive.” Finally, finishing serums are applied based on the client’s specific skin needs and further penetrate with the help of an ultra sound wand. Chrissy notes that the wand gives “a nice lift and plump to the skin.” SPF and lip conditioner are applied before the facial comes to an end.
Marketing Cure de Repos relies heavily on Instagram and Facebook marketing. Instagram is slowly taking the lead, as spa owner Chrissy Dress agrees: “Facebook used to be a better marketing tool three years ago before 20
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they changed their algorithm. Now, Instagram is really where we spend most of our time, plus it’s fun!” Google reviews also help to boost the spa’s SEO ranking and search ability. Chrissy adds that Yelp is a big help as well. However, it doesn’t hurt that Cure de Repos won a Best of Philly award and a mention in Allure magazine soon after opening! Chrissy explains that recently, the spa engaged in paid advertising, such as running ads in Philly Style Magazine and Philadelphia Luxury Bride Magazine. She notes tracking ROI is critical to the success of any marketing plan. Chrissy keeps a close eye on which ads are proving to be successful by tracking ROI for each ad. Digital marketing, specifically email marketing, can be difficult. At Cure de Repos, the spa doesn’t inundate their followers’ inboxes with email newsletters. Instead, they send out monthly specials and announcements. Chrissy explains that the booking system the spa utilizes sends automated emails: “They go out for birthdays, inviting
clients back with a ten percent off coupon. We also have an automated email that will go out to clients who have not been in for 12 weeks, saying that we miss them and offer them ten percent off their next visit.”
Community Partnering with local businesses is a core strategy for Cure de Repos. Spa director Chrissy Dress explains: “We partner with other local businesses. We work especially close with BalanceCH, a local gym that is women-owned and has been in business for ten years. We advertise our monthly specials in their locker rooms. Each year, they host a pretty large wellness event in May and we participate by offering a DIY popup spa. We bring our LightStim hand held devices and panel. We offer an interactive mini-facial with Babor products; a lip masking bar with Sara Happ products; and under eye treatments with To-Go Spa. This does not cost the participant anything. They usually end up purchasing product and booking a
spa Spa Of The Month
Client Ratio: 96 percent local; four percent non-local Staff: Four estheticians; two massage therapists; two spa associates; two makeup artists
Spa Director Spotlight
future service that day with ten percent off for attending the wellness event.” Cure de Repos also uses traditional forms of marketing, such as post cards and flyers. Chrissy says, “We also create cute post cards with a picture of our spa front on one side, including our tag line, Much More Than A Makeup Bar. On the back is our information and a 15 percent off coupon.” Cure de Repos distributes these cards at local hotels, the community center and apartment complexes with a young adult base. Chrissy also distributes the post cards at hair salons and fitness centers to attract new clients who are beauty and wellness oriented.
Training In this industry, training and learning never stop. Cure de Repos spa owner Chrissy Dress says, “Whenever there is a new product launch, I have the trainers come in from Babor and Environ to spend the day. We do this twice a year if there is a new launch or just to refresh. We have also attended off site trainings. We have done a full weekend in Maryland with Babor and day trips to
Virginia or NYC with Environ.“ Trading services is another great way to practice new protocols and services. Chrissy says, “During down time, we work on each other. This helps us as professionals to learn different tips and tricks.” The spa holds quarterly meetings to go over any new changes, address any concerns, brainstorm and share ideas.
Chrissy Dress has worked in the beauty industry for over ten years, from managing beauty boutiques to lead cosmetic sales for the state of Arizona. She has also worked as a Makeup Artist for MTV, The History Channel, E entertainment, and lately FOX Good Morning News, as well as several film and TV projects. Chrissy continues to attend many trainings for skin care techniques and product knowledge and has recently trained in Paris, NYC, and regionally. She is passionate about the beauty industry on many levels, and is excited to share her knowledge and skill set.
Rundown Cure de Repos 8133 Germantown Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19118 202.643.7377 curederepos.com Spa Owner/Director: Chrissy Dress, L.E. B.S.
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also
Opened: September 2016
a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source
Treatment Ratio: 40 percent facials; 25 percent retail; 15 percent massage; 15 percent waxing; five percent makeup
for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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Jet Lag Recovery Help your clients combat the physical and mental effects of travel by Carrie Borzillo
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With vacation season in full swing, top spas around the world are helping travelers combat the effects of jet lag that wreak havoc on one’s mental and physical health. From hypnosis and aromatherapy to restful rituals and zero-gravity chairs, five luxury spas are offering innovative treatments to help busy travelers recover from such jet lag symptoms as insomnia, general malaise, stomach issues, and more.
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spa Jet Lag Recovery
• The Road Warrior Reset The Road Warrior Reset ($175, 60-minutes) is part of Upgrade Labs at The Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, California, a health and fitness retreat offering high-tech experiences for the brain and body. This custom experience is suited for before or after travel to help quickly eliminate jet lag, overcome travel-related stress, boost the immune system, and ensure a great night’s sleep. “The Road Warrior Reset is an efficient package for rapidly overcoming jet lag; however, it provides massive benefits beyond eliminating the effects of time zone travel. The most notable is the radical immunity boost, which comes in handy for anyone who’s been burning the candle at both ends, under consistent stress, lacking sleep, pursuing an athletic goal, or feeling a little under the weather,” says Amanda McVey, VP of experience and programming for Upgrade Labs. The treatment includes three services in one: cryotherapy, infrared sauna, and The Big Squeeze, which also includes Breathe EZ and Longevity Light. The jet lag issues that cryotherapy helps with are sleep, energy, swelling, and overall immune function. The infrared sauna helps to detox, improve circulation, improve sleep as well, and increase energy and cell health. Lastly, The Big Squeeze is a compression treatment to massage the lymphatic system, which helps to detox, improve oxygen and blood flow, boost cellular energy, and more. The latter is combined with the Breathe EZ, a water vapor device that helps repair cells, and a light treatment that targets fine lines, skin texture, and facial tone.
• Jet Lag Recovery The Jet Lag Recovery at The Spa at Auberge Beach in Fort Lauderdale, Florida not only appeals to executives with busy lifestyles who are constantly multi-taking and jet-setting their way through life, but also to anyone who’s feeling sluggish, sleep deprived, or in 24
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need of a reset. The treatment is designed to reset the mind, hydrate the skin, and balance the body. The treatment begins on a zerogravity lounge chair, which completely reclines the guest in a position that brings their legs above their heart for maximum circulation. “The recline position of the zero gravity chair helps to distribute your weight across the chair, which in turn relieves stress on the body and allows the mind to relax with a feeling of weightlessness. The position promotes circulation in legs and aids in reducing swelling,” explains spa director Linda Higgs. The client’s eyes are covered with a silk eye pillow filled with lavender to compress the overstimulated sense of sight. “We then conduct an aroma inhalation ritual with peppermint essential oils and place the meditative headset as the binaural sounds soundwave therapy guides them into meditation. We then conduct a steam towel foot massage with a mixology of reviving foot balms and essential oils, followed
by the 10-in-10 mini facial which includes a cleanse, peel and deep hydration, as well as an eye mask, and a deep shoulder and neck massage,” continues Higgs. For maximum relief, the spa recommends this treatment within one to two days of flying, after a poor night’s sleep, or anytime the body and mind need a reset and rebalance.
• Hypnotherapy With sleeping issues (i.e., insomnia at night, sleepiness during the day, and time zone adaptation) being one of the most prevalent symptoms of jet lag, Spa Aiyana at Carmel Valley Ranch in Carmel Valley, California is offering customized Hypno-Health & Wellness services that focus on achieving a deeper, sounder sleep. Not only can hypnotherapy help with sleep issues, but it also helps with other jet lag symptoms as well. “Sleeping in tune with your own body’s circadian rhythm helps with recovery and with being present during wak-
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spa Jet Lag Recovery
Not only can hypnotherapy help with sleep issues, but it also helps with other jet lag symptoms as well. ing hours of the day. Many of the jet lag symptoms could see an improvement, such as daytime fatigue, difficulty concentrating or a general feeling of not being well,” says Franziska Gerstenberger-Draper, Director of Spa Operations at Carmel Valley Ranch. A typical hypnosis session (60-minutes, $350) goes like this: “The guest is laying down, and swings into hypnosis after a period of meditation. We must understand here that not everyone can be hypnotized — the guest must want to be hypnotized to receive benefit. The after-care though is my favorite – it’s a recording of the hypnosis part of the session, so that when the guest returns home (or in case of jet lag) the next night, they can listen to the recording to which then sleep will be induced,” explains Gerstenberger-Draper. Dr. Bee Epstein-Shepherd, their inhouse certified hypnotherapist, found that jet lag is best treated within 24 to 36 hours after arrival, making the first and second nights home from a trip ideal for this treatment.
• The Recovering Traveler The Recovering Traveler (100-minutes, $415), part of a new line of treatments by Australian-based Subtle Energies, at Peninsula Spa at The Peninsula Beverly Hills, helps to balance the body, improve sleep patterns, and assist with energy levels. This treatment is designed to be customized for those suffering with fatigue, adrenal stress, and musculoskeletal tension. It also assists in releasing any fluid retention and strengthens the 26
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immune system after a long flight. “The Recovering Traveler balances the circadian rhythm with a full body marma massage and our signature facial marma massage, known to activate the pineal gland together with the actives such as mogra and Indian rose. Marmas are vital energy or pranic centers that exist at various meeting points of the nerves, muscles, joints, and vessels in our body. We work with them to energize the surrounding tissue, releasing tension and increasing vitality and sometimes detoxify where there may be an excess. Working on the marmas assists to promote a state of rest, relaxation and therefore repair,” explains Nick Irani, Director of Operations and Brand Development. There’s also a mini nasya component to the treatment as well. “We use a light application of herbal oil in the nose, using over 20 herbs to help assist with sleep issues as well as the bronze Kasa bowl technique to withdraw heat and stress from the body out through the feet. Using the Kasa bowl also puts elements of copper and zinc into the system, which increase strength and tone the muscles,” adds Irani.
tailored to anyone who is stressed or exhausted, such as parents with newborns or someone who works many hours and is super exhausted. The adrenal balancing massage and the ginger root oil will help balance the energy in the body and bring the body to its natural state,” says director of wellness Avigale LaGrass. This treatment begins with inhalation therapy featuring the client’s choice of four essential oils: Re-boot (lemongrass, peppermint, and holy basil), Chill (calming chamomile and soothing neroli blossoms), Inspire (uplifting balsam fir and balancing St. John's Wort) or Meditation (a grounding essential blend with sandalwood and frankincense). “The therapist will then use the aromatherapy to do a Kundalini Awakening of the spine, which helps relax the body with a rocking motion and slowly puts the body at ease,” explains LaGrass. Next, the therapist combines Swedish massage techniques with an adrenal rebalancing massage using ginger root oil. “This massage focuses on all the acupressure points and organs to help renew flow through the body and detox. It also includes an abdominal massage with our Mighty Mint Cream to help ease any digestion issues and release any tension within the body as our stomach is known to hold most of our stress. This treatment ends with a scalp massage and inhalation therapy,” adds LaGrass.
• Jet-Lag-Be-Gone Massage
Carrie Borzillo is an award-
Jet-Lag-Be-Gone (50-minutes, $175, 80-minutes, $255) at Nalu Kinetic Spa at Turtle Bay Resort in Oahu, Hawaii combines aromatherapy to address jet lag, fatigue, and over-stimulation with a full body massage to calm the adrenal system and ease muscle soreness. The treatment doesn’t have to be just for the recent traveler. “It’s also
winning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.
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Relive the experience of this year's International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Dallas!
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skincarebyjackie: I'll be there next year!
facials_by_ashley: Had such a blast!!!!
Natkbb: Thank you!!!!
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Spa
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Himalayan Salt Panels by Saltability The installation of a Himalayan salt panel converts a traditional sauna into a detoxifying dry sauna and adds to the sauna’s benefits for guests. Within a sauna, dry heat activates the Himalayan salt blocks, transforming them into ionizers. Warmed Himalayan salt gives off negative ions that help relieve anxiety, reduce stress, improve sleep, reduce indoor air pollution and allergens, and more.
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Strategies forLeasing Your Spa Pay less rent using these lease renewal tactics by Dale Willerton
Estheticians find themselves in a variety of locations and businesses. Service providers may function as part-time contractors, or even own a full-service spa with several treatment rooms and amenities. And of course, there’s everything in between, such as renting a room, a studio, or even a unit with several rooms from a landlord. Most estheticians aren’t professional negotiators when it comes to lease agreements. Before you resign on your cozy facial studio, get clear on your negotiation strategy with help from The Lease Coach! Knowledge is only the beginning of power; it takes experience to really get great deals. Here are eight strategies and tactics used by The Lease Coach for lowering the rent you pay your landlord on your lease renewal for a spa space:
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business Strategies for Leasing Your Spa
Talk with other tenants in the building Before getting into lease renewal negotiations with your landlord, talk to your neighbors. The Lease Coach gathers a lot of great intel from other tenants. They will often tell us whether they plan to stay or move, if their rent just went up or how the landlord handled their renewal. Intel from another tenant who has just signed a new lease or renewal is more valuable than learning what another tenant agreed to pay seven years ago. Market rents are based on current deals, not old ones. And don’t be surprised if you get some misinformation too, so try to verify what you are being told by other tenants. Remember, the landlord knows what every tenant in the building is paying for rent – you need to gather similar intel yourself.
Shop Around Even if you don’t plan to move, it pays to shop around. The Lease Coach makes your landlord earn or re-earn your renewal tenancy by getting proposals from other properties. I know what you are about to say “I don’t want to move.” I’m not saying you should move – but you would be remiss for not shopping around and seeing what deals other landlords are offering. Don’t hand your renewal over to your landlord on a silver platter – we make them bid to keep you. After all, it's expensive for the landlord to replace a tenant and often more cost effective to keep you, even at a rent reduction.
customer). Ideally, the lease proposal you receive is semi-formal – not a casual email. I often tell the property manager or leasing rep – send me what you want the tenant to sign, not just the highlights. That doesn’t mean we blindly sign it without negotiation, but try to see the entire deal picture before you start negotiating on individual points.
Flinch Let the landlord make the first offer It’s much easier to negotiate when you see the business terms on paper. We let the landlord rep make the first renewal proposal so we are in a position to counter offer. If you make the first proposal it looks like you are pursuing the landlord – we want the landlord to purse the tenant (after all you are their
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No matter what rental rate you’re offered, flinch a little. Act surprised that the rent is so high. Frequently, the landlord’s first offer is made to test you, to see exactly how you react. If you look visibly relieved or even pleasantly surprised by how reasonable the rental rate is, you can be sure it won’t come down. We practice the walk away and see if they chase you strategy. It can
be quite effective. Often, the more patient party is the one who gets the best deal. Negotiating a lease is not about speed but about results.
Ask for justification Question the landlord, why do they need a rent increase? Introduce some of the intel you have gathered. Use relocation opportunties against the landlord. Rarely are all tenants paying the same rent per sq ft. If the landlord says they can’t lower your rent, The Lease Coach makes them own that statement: “can’t or won’t?” I was consulting with one of my tenant clients in California who wanted me to vigoursly argue all the reasons she deserved a rent reduction. I pointed out that a gentle touch in this instance would be more effective because the landlord already knew
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business Strategies for Leasing Your Spa the points we were making were valid. When you speak truth, rarely do you need to raise your voice or pound the table to make your point.
the negotiating table. Walking away without burning the bridge is an effective tactic. This strategy applies to all aspects of negotiating. I was dealing on a Lexus I wanted to buy. But I said no, and I walked way from the negotiating table. In a few days, I received a phone call. The dealership was lowering the price for me by $8,000. I would have left this money on the table if I had not walked away. But remember, you have to tell them you are walking away (that you are saying no). Saying you will think about the proposal is not walking away. You have to say, "No, I am not buying what you are selling." But don’t burn the bridge, you want them to think a better deal with rekindle your interest.
Wait to counter-offer When you receive the leasing agent’s first lease renewal proposal, don’t counter-offer right away, deliberately pause. At The Lease Coach, some of our success comes partially from slowing down the deal making process – not speeding it up as I stated above. My main point is to be deliberate. Don’t look at what they put down in writing – look for what is missing. What new things like additional signage, parking, storage, etc. could I have asked for now that maybe the tenant did not originally get.
ic renovations to the space. Frequently, we can get a renewal tenant an allowance as well, plus their deposit back and removal of personal guaranties. It's all negotiable. Most tenants have been brainwashed into settling for less, often by agents who are being paid a commission by the landlord. Tenants don’t get what they deserve, you get what you negotiate.
Dale Willerton is The Lease Coach – and has been a Professional Lease Consultant for 26 years exclusively working for tenants and
Walk away from the negotiating table I used to work for landlords and I can tell you, rarely does the landlord give their best deal while you are sitting at
Don’t just focus on the rent
taking no commission from landlords. The
The Lease Coach just finished negotiating a lease renewal rent reduction for a tenant, plus we got the tenant four months of free rent to help with cosmet-
Lease Coach speaks at tradeshows throughout North America. Dale is author of Negotiating Commercial Leases & Renewals FOR DUMMIES. (Wiley, 2013).
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Celuma on Beauty Biz BFFs Celluma was recently featured on LA based beauty podcast, Beauty Biz BFFs. The one hour podcast focused on light therapy, including Celluma’s own NASA origins and modern usage for anti aging skin care.
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ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month!
• MarketingMika loves her Biologique Recherche facials! Here with @craciun_ cati_loredana at The Spa at the Joule!
• Our #estyeditor has a new found love for threading! @browsbyhaneen gave us super sharp and clean brows.
his month, Esthetician Edit is launching their online blog platform at LNEonline.com! We have so many fun, informative and trendy treatment posts and videos for you to read and share with your #estybestie. Tell us what content you crave by sending us a message @estheticianedit. Stay tuned for new content and even more ways to engage this summer. Meanwhile, check out how the EE duo likes to get some rest and relaxation at spas around the country…
Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for
• We love a good skin scrubber! Our editor was so impressed with how clean and plump her skin felt after visiting Jane at Blue Mermaid Spa.
• We love our Esthetician Edit #girlgang! Stop by the Speaker Lounge at the next International Congress of Esthetics and Spa for a chance to be featured!
Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!
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Summertime Treatments guide How to educate your clients on face and body care this summer LNEonline.com
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Increase Your SPF IQ
Decode your client’s SPF for maximum at-home usage by Briana McKee & Elizabeth Brasher
As skin care professionals, we recommend sun protection products to every client. This can elicit many questions from our clients. At this point, most everyone has heard that they should have an SPF in their routine. But most people want to know the which, how, and why of it all. Do you have those answers? Do we really know why we recommend one product over another? We’d like to outline some key considerations to raise your SPF IQ.
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Summertime Treatments Guide
What is the point of SPF? There are two main damaging types of radiation that are produced by the sun. Ultraviolet A radiation (UVA, "aging") is the longer wave UV ray that absorbs deeper in the skin layers, suppressing the immune system. This can lead to a breakdown of collagen and elastin and result in photo-aging. UVA rays are constantly present, no matter the season or weather, and are strong enough to penetrate clothing and glass. Known as “the tanning ray,” it is often assumed that this is the safer of the two frequencies, but newer research indicates these rays can damage keratinocytes in the epidermal layers (where most skin cancers begin). The highpressure sunlamps used in tanning salons emit doses of UVA as much as 12 times that of the sun. Ultraviolet B (UVB, "burning") is the shorter wave UV ray that stops in the upper layers of the skin, causing sunburns, skin damage, and also contributes to skin cancer. This may only seem like viable information for people who spend their days outdoors in the elements, yet most of the damage occurring is through daily exposure during general activities such as driving, walking, and running errands. These key factors are the main reasons a daily application SPF is so critical. SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, a measure of how well sunscreen protects against UVB rays. (UVA protection isn't rated.) The number that follows dictates how long after a certain length of time the product will protect the skin above its own natural barrier. These numbers often seem vague and confusing, especially to a consumer. In 2011, the FDA introduced new guidelines for SPF products, including Broad Spectrum regulations. Sunscreens that pass the new broad spectrum test will have demonstrated that they also provide ultraviolet A (UVA) protection that is proportional to their UVB protection. These regulations are based on a scale of actual 44
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product usage amount - meaning they measure a precise dosage of ingredients per square inch of skin necessary to give full SPF coverage.
Sunscreen or sunblock? There is a difference. Chemical sunscreens contain organic (carbon-based) compounds, which create a chemical reaction and work by changing UV rays into heat, then releasing that heat from the skin. They are often referred to as chemical or organic absorbers. Physical sunblocks contain active mineral ingredients, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, which work by sitting on top of the skin to deflect and scatter damaging UV rays away from the skin. They are often referred to as physical blockers. These compounds and their concentration percentages can be found under
the “Active Ingredients” section on a product’s ingredient deck. Choosing the right SPF can seem like such a personal decision and can leave consumers divided. To guarantee best overall protection, a blend of chemical and physical ingredients is recommended. This is especially important for a client who is often outdoors or who has a history of excessive sun exposure or a family history of skin cancer. Some clients complain about the thick feel of sunscreen containing physical SPF. For them, a chemical block may be best. There are newer micronized physical blocks on the market that may also help eliminate this concern. Some people may be sensitive to the heat exchange byproduct of a chemical SPF. If your client says they
Summertime Treatments Guide
have reacted to a sunscreen in the past, try sampling a sunblock that contains only zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Many physical block formulations also have the added benefit of being anti-inflammatory.
Is SPF100 better than SPF50? No sunscreen can filter out 100 percent of the UVB rays. The SPF ratings given work on a bell curve, so an SPF 15 filters about 93 percent of UVB, while an SPF 50 filters 98 percent of UVB rays. The introduction of high-value sunscreen products on the skin care market can lead to a false sense of security with consumers. This could cause them to spend more time in the sun well after the product has stopped working. People often assume the SPF they get in their makeup and cosmetic products is plentiful, but knowing the amount of product needed to meet standard SPF criteria, we can see how
this would not be effective. In fact, layering products with varying SPF values can help achieve a more balanced protection and is great to recommend to clients that are light-handed with product application. It’s important to note, however, that when you are layering multiple SPF products, you do not add the SPF values. Layering makeup foundation with an SPF 15 and a powder with an SPF 20 does not mean you have an SPF 35. The highest SPF is considered your correct protection.
How much and how often should I apply? The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends applying one teaspoon of sunscreen for the face and two tablespoons of sunscreen to your whole body. Sunscreens should be applied a minimum of 30 minutes before you begin sun exposure. This gives time to
absorb fully and activate on the skin. Consumers should also be aware that no sunscreens are "waterproof" because all sunscreens eventually wash off. Sunscreens can only be labeled as "water resistant" if they are tested according to the required SPF test procedure. Products labeled as "water resistant" sunscreens will also be required to state whether the sunscreen remains effective for 40 minutes or 80 minutes when swimming or sweating, and all sunscreens will be required to provide directions on when to reapply. Overexposure to harmful sun radiation is an avoidable risk. It may feel like a journey, but it is possible to match a client with their perfect SPF product. Education on proper application (and re-application) techniques and making sure clients feel educated enough to decode the labeling are all part of being a licensed skin care professional.
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Healthy
Summer Skin
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Preserving your client’s progress during the hot summer months by Aurora Solis
Summer is typically a time for vacation and play, and with increased exposure to the sun and the environment, maintaining professional skin care and exfoliation habits are an important part of every client’s healthy skin routine. However, during the summer it is critical to understand which treatments are compatible with the rising temperatures, as well as how to educate clients and encourage them to remain compliant with their healthy skin routines throughout the season.
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Summertime Treatments Guide
Exfoliation During Summer One may think that all exfoliation techniques are applicable year-round, but that is not necessarily the case. During the summer months, it is important to evaluate products and treatment techniques to ensure that they are compatible with the rising temperatures outside. For example, while chemical peels are extremely effective in providing gentle exfoliation if administered correctly, the client is required to remain cool for 48 hours following a peel. There are multiple reasons for this. If an AHA chemical peel is performed, the dermosomal bonds between the keratinocytes are dissolved. This allows the cells to exfoliate easily as they turn over. If a client sweats excessively in the days immediately following this peel, there is a potential for the moisture to be trapped within the imminently shedding cells, creating small water blisters. These usually appear at the hairline, upper lip and other areas of perspiration. Additionally, it is wise to avoid inflammation to minimize the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmenta-
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tion (PIH), regardless of the types of acid used. Unless the client is willing to remain indoors for this period of time, staying cool can be difficult to accomplish in the hot summer months. An excellent alternative to chemical peels in the summer is the use of proteolytic enzyme masks for treatment. Not only are masks easily removable and require no downtime, but they also offer some specific benefits for hotter times of the year. A papaya mask, for instance, contains the enzyme papain, which primarily acts as a keratolytic agent by digesting the keratin protein built up on the surface of the skin without causing excessive heat or stimulation. These types of enzyme masks provide important benefits without causing the excessive heat or inflammation that should be avoided during summer months. Superficial, blended chemical peels are not contraindicated at this time of year, but the esthetician must ensure that the client will observe their recommendation to avoid heat for 48
hours. Blended chemical peels do have a myriad of benefits. They gently remove dead cells on the skin’s surface, effectively lighten areas of hyperpigmentation and minimize acne breakouts. Additionally, the application of a chemical peel reduces surface impactions and creates spaces between the keratinocytes to allow active ingredients to penetrate more effectively. Chemical peeling ingredients such as acids and enzymes are able to dissolve impacted surface skin cells, improving barrier function and reducing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL).
Turn Down the Heat In additional to exfoliation treatments, there are many topical options available to skin professionals to bring about healthy skin in clients despite the challenges of the summer heat. Treatments that are less aggressive, do not require downtime or heat-avoidance and help to minimize the effects of sun exposure will be much appreciated by clients. In
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Summertime Treatments Guide
addition to daily use of broad-spectrum sun protection with an SPF of 30 or higher, the following treatments are both popular and effective during the summer season: • Apply topical products containing multiple melanogenesis inhibitors such as kojic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, licorice and alpha-arbutin to suppress UV-induced hyperpigmentation and help maintain results achieved during cooler months. • Add a retinoid booster to the end of any summer-friendly treatment protocol to inhibit melanogenesis and increase cellular turnover, moisture content and collagen production- all of which are impacted by hot weather. • Recommend clay-based masks for at-home use to gently yet thoroughly detoxify the skin and clear pores of excess cell debris, sebum and environmental impurities accumulated from the typical extended outdoor exposure in the summer. • Perform antioxidant treatments and have clients boost topical antioxidant use at home to reduce free radical damage due to UV exposure and increased environmental pollutants such as car emissions and cooling units.
Following Care Instructions It is important when working with clients to not only administer their treatments, but also to be an educational resource to them as well. Knowledge is power. Take the extra time to speak with clients about their skin condition, explain why you are choosing specific treatments and the outcome they should expect. Also, treat clients as partners and educate them on the best way to maximize treatment results between appointments. Make sure they understand the crucial role they have
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in maintaining their skin and how they can ensure the best long-term esthetic results through their own diligence. One important area where clients can play an active role is in the prevention and reoccurrence of hyperpigmentation during the warmer months. Both UV radiation and heat from the sun can cause discoloration in the skin for those prone to hyperpigmentation. For clients who have worked throughout the year to even their skin tone, it is especially important to take extra precautions to protect the skin in the summer. The best way to do so is to use a broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 every day. For optimal results, the sunscreen should be applied at least 30 minutes prior to going outdoors, and reapplied every two hours while outside. Recommend that clients wear hats, sunglasses and seek shade whenever possible, as these are also excellent ways to prevent the recurrence of hyperpigmentation.
Travel Size Another way to ensure client compliance is to make sure that they have sufficient amounts of daily care product and SPF while away on their summer vacations. It is a good idea to routinely ask clients whether they are planning to travel. Showing interest and care builds the trust relationship between you and your client and allows them ample time to purchase additional product to ensure that their treatment continues uninterrupted. This not only benefits the client, but also preserves the hard work you’ve done all year. Summer can be a challenging time for maintaining healthy skin. However, with proper attention to the utilization of summer-friendly treatments and client education, clients can maintain the results they earned during the cooler months while enjoying the summer with healthy, protected skin.
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Summer
Proof Tan
How To Make Your Client's Spray Tan Last at the Beach! by Veronique Munro
Summertime is fast upon us and your books will be filing up fast with spray tan appointments. Many of your customers will be relying on you to get them ready for swimsuit season. Before shedding those oversized sweaters and leggings, they will be in search of that liquid confidence to visually shed those winter pounds that crept in between the pumpkins and the dropping of the ball in Times Square and giving them a tan that lasts through the beach-going months. Get ready to grab your spray gun, put on your celebrity spray tan artist cap and embrace the role of spray tan magician. With the sun shining on their skin, all will be revealed. You've got your work cut out for you! As every spray tanner knows, there are many things that can be done to ensure your customer achieves a flawless and long-lasting tan. By neglecting any of them, not only will your customer not get the best results possible, but also things can go horribly wrong. Communication is key and your reputation and growing clientele depends on it. It all starts with the correct preparation of the skin, a thorough client consultation before the session even begins and then properly educating them on how to care for their skin afterwards.
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Summertime Treatments Guide
By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail Let’s start with preparation. We all know the spray tanning preparation ritual of cleansing, exfoliating and epilating. But, there are optimal ways of doing each of these. Understanding them will help you to better educate your customer and the end result will be an even deeper and longer lasting tan. In addition to the basics, the condition of the skin must be addressed as well as the pH level before applying the spray tan (or self-tanner).
Cleansing – All cleansers are not created equal. Many cleansers on the market contain ingredients that can dehydrate the skin or excessive oils that act as a barrier to the skin and prevent the tanning solution from properly reacting with the amino acids in the top layer of the skin. The result will be a lighter or nonexistent tan. For best results,
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educate your customer to use a pH balanced skin cleanser and to avoid soaps in general.
Exfoliating – There are two types of exfoliation: abrasive and non-abrasive. Abrasive exfoliation includes salt or sugar scrubs, loofahs, exfoliating mitts and the like. Non abrasive exfoliation is a gentler exfoliation often using enzymes to gently exfoliate the skin without creating microtears. When it comes to sunless tanning, the use of both is recommended but timing everything. Up to three days before spray tanning, an abrasive exfoliant should be used to remove a buildup of dry and dead skin cells and old self tanner. This will create microtears on the skin, but by allowing a few days for the skin to recover you will not have to worry about the spray going into the cracks and crevices of the skin. Then either the night before or morning of the spray tan, recommend that a non-abrasive exfo-
liant be used. This process will ensure that all old sunless tanner is removed to avoid overlapping of color that creates streakiness and that only young and healthy skin cells without microtears remain on the body for maximum cellular lifecycle which will keep the tan on the skin longer.
Epilation – By removing facial and body hair as close to the spray tan as possible, this will extend the time between your customer's spray and the need to once again remove unwanted hair. The two best methods for hair removal are laser hair removal or waxing, as that will last the longest. Shaving is the least desirable as it will often need to be redone within one to three days and will remove the skin cells together with the tan by acting as an abrasive form of exfoliation with hair removal.
Ph Balance – All skin has varying pH levels all over the body. Where the skin is
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Summertime Treatments Guide
drier, such as the elbows and knees or back of the arms and calves, the skin will have disparities in pH, resulting in different absorption rates for the solution so it will not absorb evenly and will lead to darker areas where the skin is drier. To counteract this, spray on a pH normalizing spray prior to applying the solution. In the sun, color disparity is very noticeable so it is a great way to ensure the skin looks even in daylight.
Moisture – Level of moisture in the skin will affect not only the activation of the tan but also the appearance of the color on the skin. Where your customer has extremely dry skin, the application of DHA (which is often quite drying to the skin) can create what we like to call the “palm tree effect," where the skin begins to look crackled. When you have the luxury of time, advise your customer to begin moisturizing their skin every day leading up to their spray tan (just 56
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not the day of the spray tan). This will also make the skin look much more youthful post spray.
Getting to know your customers
about them beforehand will arm you to select the best solutions to counteract the effects. This can make all the difference in whether or not the tan develops and how long it lasts.
Hormones – Menstruation, hormonal imNever under estimate the power of the consultation. Not only will your customer appreciate the personal attention that comes with the service, but you also have the opportunity to learn things about your customers that will help you deliver the best results. You will learn things that will help you choose which solutions you will use; determine which add-ons you will recommend but also find out about anything that could affect the tan before you begin. Some examples are:
Medications – there are a number of medications that can cause dryness or excessive exfoliation, so learning
balances and pregnancy can all have an impact on the activation of the tan. It may be as simple as knowing your customer's tan lasts longer when she is 14 days into her cycle and working together on the best day to spray her before she leaves for her vacation.
Areas they would like to minimize – Body contouring will not only give your customers an added boost, but will also make them love you forever! Bikini ready areas include sculpting the abs, highlighting the clavicle bones, enhancing the spine for a tighter back and minimizing areas that your customer feels self-conscious about.
Summertime Treatments Guide Note the length of time they will leave on the tan before showering. This will help you choose whether you will use a rapid tan and when to recommend they shower for the results they desire. Rapid tans can dry out the skin and cast orange if sprayed too heavily or left on too long and they can also be very drying, so determining your customer's skin condition and how much time they plan on leaving it on the skin is crucial for best results.
What to wear after a spray – Tell your customers to either loosen up buttons or wear clothing without buttons or a thick side seem at all (like jeans). Baggy should be the word de jour. Also, advise them to skip the bra and anything that’s tight enough to leave a mark on their skin, as that will also remove the spray tan. We love flowing dresses, but that leg crossing can create sweat under the crossing leg, which can create a smudge; so, sweat pants win as the best thing to wear after a spray tan.
Setting the Tan – By applying a drying powder to the skin after the tan, that will help reduce moisture on the skin and help to keep fabric from cutting directly into the solution and will help to prevent any smudging or streaking, especially under the breasts, underarms, inner thighs, behind the knees and between the crease in front of the elbows.
How long should they wait before washing & sweating?
Leave your customer with aftercare instructions
What to use in the shower – Recommend
For flawless beach-ready results, what your customer does when you put the gun down and leave the room will make all the difference. The proper after care will prevent the customer from smudging the tan, rinsing it off too soon, or removing it with the wrong products.
Depending on whether you chose a full activating solution or a rapid tan will determine the recommended wait time. Have them leave it on long enough for the perfect color that looks natural outdoors under the sunlight.
ommend that your customer apply an oil-free waterproof sunscreen. While this may not prevent it from washing off, it will give your customer's tan the best chance of survival.
Hydration – Recommend hydration from the inside out. That will keep the skin cells plump and on the body longer. Water and green tea (eight glasses per day) and a daily oil-free moisturizer will do the trick. If the color begins fading, recommend supplementing the daily moisturizer for a gradual self-tanner.
Maintaining evenness/topping up – The hands, face and feet will always fade before the rest of the body. By recommending your customer to use a sunless aerosol ever so lightly in those areas, they can add more color to those areas without the risk of oversaturating those areas and making them look streaky and orange.
your customer not use soap or body wash with oil. pH balancing skin cleansers work best. The first shower after a spray tan should be a light rinse with warm water and patted dry.
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Protect & Glow
Summertime soothers and sun protection...
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Shine-free moisture for all day hydration!
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IMBALANCE to
BALANCE
How to realign Vata, Pitta and Kapha Doshas by Halley Hargonich
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Ayurveda creates a more profound comprehension of our metaphysical wellbeing, which in turn can provide a deeper consciousness to how we act in regard to self-healing of our mind and body. It is an ever-improving lifestyle helping to determine our identity to our disposition to illness and maintain our physical and mental traits. And unlike “fad diets” that only seem to last for a moment, Ayurveda has been around for over 5,000 years and is a sophisticated approach to a total wellbeing. In the Hindu culture that cultivates for nature, body and matter, it creates a form of prevention in our individuality. It is a constitution that health is dependent on one’s balance- Prakrti. When we move away from what keeps us balanced, it constitutes as- Vikruti. Imbalance can manifest in many different ways. We will look into the understanding and comprehension of each “natural state” of the Ayurvedic individual self’s identity, better known as Dosha- Vata, Pitta, and Kapha. Most of us will represent one of each Dosha predominantly, or a mix of two equally (more or less). Offering ways for prevention through Ayurveda can be vital for its treatment modalities, and in practice for understanding that not any two humans are the same, and what might bring one human to balance can be completely different for another.
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organic & wellness Imbalance to Balance
Your Internal Dosha The first part in understanding your internal Dosha(s) is recognizing that each Dosha contains certain qualities. Ayurvedic treatment relies upon recognizing what is excessive and deficient (it can be found on a number of different websites where you can take tests or quizzes online, finding out your Dosha and imbalance(s)). In this article, we will discuss the different Doshas, discovering their elements, addressing their imbalance and how one can increase their overall wellbeing using a holistic approach.
Vata Dosa The Vata Dosha is made up of air and space elements. It is the energy of movement. It governs the feelings of thought and expression and is associated with motion, breathing, circulation and heart function. Vata characteristics are tall or short, slender, protruding joints, delicate skin, hair, nails, and is prone to dryness for their skin type. They are creative, quick learning, and fluctuate in energy - fast paced, easily to overexertion. Vata Doshas are light sleepers, but can fall asleep quickly. They have cold hands/feet, and digestion tends to be constipated with ab66
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dominal pains due to their digestive tract. When out of balance, Vata can feel fearful, worrisome, lonely, act out of impulse, have very dry skin, chapped lips, dry cuticles and intolerable feelings and thoughts. To balance and maintain the Vata Dosha is to find routine and calmness. Find foods that are naturally savory, sweet and salty in taste and eat at routine times. Find space and peace for your meals. To help with skin dryness, use Ayurvedic oils that are nourishing and grounding that contain Valerian root, Hemp, Patchouli, CBD and Sesame oil. Herbs such as Triphala and Ashwagandha can assist in relieving constipation, which can be very beneficial for reducing stress in Vata, too.
Pitta Dosha Pitta constitutes as fire and water elements, translating to transformation. These elements promote intelligence and understanding. They are hyper-focused and super intellects. Their characteristics are athletic build, moderate weight, and oily and soft skin. The hair has a tendency to be balding- especially for men. They have rosy complexions, warm or hot body temperature, and sweat profusely. Pitta experiencing
an imbalance will feel angry, jealous, frustrated, and can be judgmental or critical. They will have insomnia, fevers, rashes, eye problems and loose stool, loss of appetite or excessive eating while stressed, concluding in indigestion. A lifestyle strategy to aid in balancing the Pitta Dosha is surrendering. Irritability can be attained through tantric practice, a pathway of yoga and meditation. Herbs that can contribute to reducing the body temperature and overall mental clarity, soothing the mind for a more balanced temperament and homeostasis are fennel, mint and cardamom to name just a few. Avoid hot spices, such as cayenne and black pepper. Aloe Vera and cucumber are very healthful in supporting the skin and digestion for the Pitta type. When Pitta wants to keep a clear complexion and needs to soothe the skin, it begins from within, internal to external. Drinking coconut water or applying it directly to the skin will help with cooling and hydration. Since Pitta is prone to inflammation and redness in the skin and eyes, it is best to use restorative oils for the body, like sunflower oil; and for the eyes, simply splashing and massaging cool water onto them in the
organic & wellness Imbalance to Balance morning and night. Minimizing overuse of products and chemicals is very effective for overall encouragement for refreshing and calming Pitta.
Kapha Dosha Kapha equals Earth. Its elements are water and earth. Kapha is our most dominant Dosha. Kapha is strong, large framed, steady in the mind, stable, loving, passionate, gentle, deliberate in action and speech. They have softness in hair, skin, and tone of voice. We gravitate towards our Kapha Dosha, as harmony and peace surround it. But, when imbalanced, Kapha are prone to depression, lethargy, weight gain, insecurities, low immunity, and poor circulation. Kapha digestive system is slow and creates excess mucus. Eating moderately, limiting sweets (as Kapha is an emotional eater and finds comfort in sugary foods), and eating leafy greens help speed up the elimination and support their metabolism in the intestinal tract. Green apples are a wonderful source for Kapha. They are high in fiber and slow to digest, aiding in
feeling fuller and an excellent source of vitamin C to boost Kapha energy as well as immunity. To support Kapha’s mental clarity, find ways to keep the energy level high by taking dance lessons or engaging in physical activity that invigorates the cardiovascular pumping, and vigorous massages. Kapha skin care regimens should be daily cleansing with gel or foam cleansers, enzyme masques, and light moisturizers in the am/pm. Jojoba oil is closest to our own natural sebum, so as to not create extra oil production for Kapha, it’s a perfect match to keep their natural oil at balance and soften the skin. Almond oil and vanilla oil can be uplifting and create joy for Kapha. In Ayurveda, it is essential to understand how to eat properly, become familiar with what we may be predisposed to, and be aware of the stressors of our every day life and emotional trauma. Ayurvedic rejuvenation it is an optimal way to kindle a healthy life-body balance and it’s a personalized approach to promoting wellbeing. Finding your Dosha will create a unique relationship
with your body, therefore constructing a wellness plan. Ayurveda will allow for a shift in consciousness that deep down reflects a beauty of reshaping your inner self, while being present with the natural rhythms of nature. As humans, we try to find the “right” way and have strong expectations of ourselves, just to feel dissatisfied. Relating to your Dosha will lead you on the journey of wellbeing. The path should allow you to be gentle with yourself and seek the three of “M’s” of trusting your healing- mantras, massage and meditation.
Halley Hargonich is the Wellness Director at Jade Signature on Sunny Isles Beach. Halley believes in leading through daily operations, building revenue, and improving effectiveness using wellness initiatives. Halley also provides as a consultant to build client relations between spa guests and spa employees.
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Natural
Sunburn Soother
Exploring the benefits of Green Tea for sunburns by Aurora Solis
Every summer, we send our clients away on vacation hoping they will be diligent with their sun protection and follow our strict instructions to protect their skin. However, it seems we can’t avoid that “I got a sunburn! Are you mad?” text that creeps up on us every June-August. Aloe and cold compress are staple sunburn soothers. But, did you know that green tea can be just as effective? This skin care essential is loaded with antioxidants and makes a great soothing sunburn treatment. See why green tea skin care for sunburns is the perfect treatment to perform in the treatment room or at home when your client sends you the dreaded sunburn text!
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organic & wellness Natural Sunburn Soother
BENEFITS OF GREEN TEA SKIN CARE Green tea is full of beneficial antioxidants and skin properties. It can be found in many skin serums, moisturizers, eye creams and masks and is a great option for sensitive skin clients. Some of the benefits include:
• Antioxidants Antioxidants scavenge free radicals in the skin. Green tea has a high concentration of several antioxidants. These antioxidants are rich in flavonoids, caffeine and catechins (epigallocatechin and epigallocatechin gallate (EGC and EGCG)). Catechins function as antiinflammatory and anti-cancer agents. They help support collagen and elastin, reduce inflammation, regulate the immune system, and promote enzymatic activity within the cells. L-theanine is an antioxidant found only in green tea and some mushrooms. It stimulates the buildup of collagen, calms the mind, rehydrates the body and helps eliminate toxins.
• Antibacterial properties Green tea can help reduce acne bacteria, soothe skin and promote healing after harsh acne treatments such as peels and microdermabrasion. 70
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• Amino Acids Also known as polypeptides and polysaccharides, amino acids penetrate the skin and provide antibacterial, UVA and UVB protection, and moisture retention and improve skin texture.
• Caffeine Caffeine gives the skin a firmer appearance as it reduces puffiness. It’s great for under the eyes and any areas where cellulite might be a concern, such as the thighs and the stomach.
GREEN TEA FOR SUNBURNS Did you know that green tea is a popular treatment for sunburns? It effectively soothes and protects the skin from free radicals. It is also a great cooling treatment when brewed into an iced tea. A green tea compress is the best way to soothe and treat sunburn. The first step is making the right green tea selection. Loose leaf tea is preferred over tea bags. Tea bags use other materials such as gluten, bleach and pe-
troleum that may limit the effectiveness of the treatment. Japanese green tea is superior to other green teas. It is grown uniquely and undergoes minimal oxidation during processing. Japanese green tea provides the perfect clean dose of healing needed for topical skin treatments. Brew a generous amount of green tea. Be sure to steep for adequate time as to allow the water to absorb the caffeine and antioxidants from the tea. Next, place the tea in the refrigerator. Adding ice will cool the tea faster, but will dilute the mixture. It’s best to allow the tea to cool naturally. Using soft gauze, create a cool green tea compress. Apply directly to sunburned areas. The cooling nature will reduce inflammation and redness associated with sunburn. Allow 15 to 20 minutes for absorption. This treatment can be performed daily until the sunburn has healed. Be sure to follow up with a soothing moisturizer. Avoid heavy oils or petroleum-based products that can
organic & wellness Natural Sunburn Soother
keep the skin from breathing and healing naturally.
MORE BENEFICIAL GREEN TEA TREATMENTS • Foot Soaks and Body Baths Place the tea in a muslin bag and add to the warm water for about 10 minutes and remove. Antibacterial properties heal and slimming properties benefit the hips, thighs and tummy while soothing; smoothing and moisturizing properties enhance the overall appearance and feel of the feet and body. *Remember that the tea is absorbed, an important consideration for expectant or new mothers, as well as those recovering from surgery.
HC
• Steam Rooms and Saunas These amenities greatly benefit from using tea. The antibacterial properties keep the rooms fresh and clean, and tea can simply be replaced for water. This can also help equipment last longer and perform better.
• Facials The first steeping of tea contains all the caffeine, which tightens skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines. On younger skin, use a green tea mask after extractions or chemical work. For mature skin, use before the moisturizing step for better absorption.
• Back Facials Incorporate green tea to help reduce acne, as well as heal and calm the skin post-waxing.
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Organic & Wellness
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NEWS 1
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Defy the effects of aging and nourish dry skin with this vitamin C-rich cannabidiol (CBD) oil blend. Made with soothing borage seed oil, hydrating hemp seed oil, and other specially selected oils, Fortify fights free radicals and rejuvenates skin.
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Summer Proof
Makeup with Beke Beau
Owner of Paint School of Makeup in Philadelphia, PA
How do you feel about summer makeup trends? Is there really a difference in makeup from season to season? Seasonal makeup trends have always been a great marketing tool for the cosmetic industry, but they are less advantageous for the client, who can be confused and overwhelmed by new choices every few months. I believe that it comes naturally to us to prefer lighter, brighter textures and tones in warmer weather.
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What makeup trends are you ready to leave behind this summer? The heavy coverage, contour and excessive highlighting so popular on social media is simply not going to work well in hot weather, and I’m really happy about that! I’m so over the “more is more” trend.
Skin prep is always a must. What tips do you have to prep a client’s skin for summer makeup? I’ll put on my esthetician hat to answer this one. Skin that has been treated to a dedicated routine of cleansing, treating and protecting is going to ensure the best palette for makeup. Every summer application should start with clean, lightly hydrated skin. Opt out of heavy, occlusive moisturizers and use lightweight hydrating serums and waters for skin prep instead.
What’s the relationship between sun protection and makeup? Makeup that has an additional SPF ingredient simply cannot protect the skin sufficiently, because in most cases, it would require heavier coverage that in most cases wouldn’t be flattering. A separate SPF product in the 30 range, before any foundation or correction, needs to be a habit all year round.
We’ve heard that products with an SPF can cause “flashback.” Can you tell us more? First of all, is the client going to be the subject of flash photography? If not, this is a non-issue. If so, then products containing mineral sunscreens like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, as well as powders (usually termed “HD”) which are silica-based, i.e. reflective, could
make the skin look lighter than normal in a photo taken with a flash. To be safe, stick to foundations with no SPF component and well-balanced, professional-grade translucent powders that work in most mediums. I keep a chemical-based sunscreen in my kit for clients who need sun protection.
In terms of color cosmetics, which textures work best in the heat of summer? If your client wants to swim or sweat profusely in their makeup, cream and gel formulas for eyes and cheeks are going to tend to stay put. For normal, daily wear, powders are still reliable, especially when going for a more matte finish.
Some clients want to achieve a “dewy” look. How does that work in hot weather? A polished yet dewy look is quite difficult to maintain, especially for special events like weddings, because it requires keeping the perfect balance of moisture, something the client isn’t likely to be able to do. I would add a drop of liquid highlighter to foundation to simulate a soft glow.
On that note, what products can be used to control sweat and how do you touch up excess moisture on a client?
What sort of services can you offer to help a client make their makeup more waterproof? This is the time of year when I advise my fairer clients to get lashes and brows tinted. Who doesn’t want to emerge from the surf with dark lashes that don’t run? Facial self-tanners can also feel like enough color for summer, although not a great idea for those with excessive hyperpigmentation, because selftanners often darken those areas.
How would you approach foundation for a client with acne in the summer? Breakouts can be so frustrating for clients any time of year. In summer, I advise them to forego foundation all over the face and simply spot treat with a highly pigmented foundation that matches their skin tone, followed by a loose waterproof setting powder.
Bright lips can look great at the beach. How do you advise clients who want to achieve a long-lasting finish that won’t bleed or smear? There are a number of sheer lip stains on the market and they’re great for summer. They have a balm-like texture and can range from tints of pink, to peach to cherry red. Bonus: most of them can double as cheek color!
There are a number of professional-grade products that can be used pre-makeup to help control moisture. While designed for special effects use, they can be handy for conventional applications on ultra-hot days. I also start with a truly matte foundation, a product I rarely reach for in colder months. Assuming you’ve done your job, touchups will be minimal, but I always leave my client with a translucent pressed powder to be safe.
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Summer Lash
Care
Ensure your client’s lash extensions last all summer long by Lindy Williams
“My extensions are shedding way more than usual! What’s happening?” This is the question I get frequently from clients. The usual answer: “It’s the season.” Have you ever noticed the coincidence of lash shedding with season changes? Yes, we get the changing of trees and its leaves, but with it, clients’ activities change, humidity changes, and the environment around us changes. So with summer right around the corner, EBL wants to give you a heads up on how to hold onto those extensions for as long as possible. During the season for swimming and sweating, the difficulty of keeping make up in place becomes a chronic battle. Clients will want, more than ever, their lashes in tip top shape. As professionals, these are the things you can help them monitor to keep those extensions looking fresh!
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image Summer Lash Care
• Sunscreen
• Heat
Sunscreens are a must for our skin with sun exposure at its peak, but we need to be careful with them when wearing eyelash extensions. Most sunscreens contain oil and oil breaks down the adhesive; it’s that simple. To prevent the eyelash extensions from falling out sooner than normal, make sure clients are using an oil-free sunscreen on their face. When applying sunscreen, make sure to shield or avoid sunscreen from the area around the eyes/extensions.
Summer = heat. Bring on the heat, baby (or not!). Let’s get into heat and how it can affect your eyelash extensions. Have you ever wondered why some clients’ lashes have straightened when they come back for their fill? Something to look into is if their lashes were around heat for an extended amount of time. I had a client once that was grilling and had her face too close to the grill for a long period of time. Her lashes became singed on the tips and looked a bit more straight than normal. This was due to the heat. BBQ’s, bonfires, ovens, and even having a blow dryer near the eyelashes for an extended period of time is not recommended. So the next time your client comes with singed lashes you will know why! Keep that face away from the heat!
• Natural Oils Speaking of oils, our hands have natural oils. We should warn our clients to never touch the extensions with their fingers. So no fiddling with lashes unless using a wand! We know it’s tempting, but trust us on this one!
• Makeup On a day-to-day basis, avoid any make up that may contain oils around the eye area. Remember, the number one rule: Oil and adhesive are not friends.
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• Moisture Moisture is key to weakening the adhesive bond. We work so hard to make a great bond between the natural lash
and the eyelash extension, so when that bond breaks it’s devastating. Steam from hot tubs and steam rooms can weaken the bond the adhesive has and cause the extension to fall out prematurely.
• Sweat & Salt Sweat can also weaken that bond. Sweat has salt in it, which we want to be careful of around eyelashes. Salt from sweat can dehydrate the lashes, therefore weakening the adhesive bond and causing extensions to pop off prematurely from a brittle lash. If you are doing salt-water swimming, try to wear goggles when possible. If not, make sure to wash your lashes
image Summer Lash Care
client to take home. Remind, remind, remind! The more times they hear it, the higher the chance they’ll instill it and it will become habitual lash care. Let’s help our clients enjoy those summer months and enjoy those long lasting lashes!
Lindy Williams is the owner and CEO of EBL Lashes. She started her business out of necessity as a single mom but through continual research, years of experience, and a love for the industry, she has cultivated an award winning product line sought after lash artists worldwide. Lindy balances being
immediately after the contact with salt to remove any salt or sweat residue on the lashes. In addition, when drying the eyelash extensions pat them; never rub them as grown out extensions can get caught and ripped off accidentally.
a business woman by day and a mom and wife in-between. Passionate about seeing people succeed, EBL provides great products in hopes of making it that much easier for lash artists all over.
• Tanning Beds Even though we’re all looking for that golden skin tone, tanning beds should be evaded while wearing extensions. The UV light from tanning beds can weaken the bond. If you have to tan, keep it to a minimum and make sure to wear proper eye protection while in the bed.
• Allergies Allergy season is something that can hit like the plague. If clients are affected by allergies and are constantly rubbing their eyes or tearing up, it may be in their best interest to take a break until their allergies die down.
• Basic Care Basic care on a day-to-day basis is vital to extension retention, no matter the season. The less you touch the lash extensions, the longer they will last. Mascara should never be worn on eyelash extensions. The eyelash extensions should provide enough drama on their own. If a client feels it’s not enough, try adjusting the diameter, length, or fan-size at their next appointment to give them their desired, bolder look. Don’t let clients pick at their lashes. Picking can cause damage to the natural lashes and inhibit lash growth cycles. It’s best to wait 24 hours before getting them wet after initial application to allow time for the glue to completely cure. Make sure to wash the lashes DAILY. This is the biggest eyelash extension myth. I promise you, clean lashes are the happiest lashes (especially with extensions!). For eyelash extensions to continue looking their best, advise clients to get fills every 2-3 weeks. Pre-booking is always best to ensure they get on your schedule at their desired time. As lash technicians, it is our goal to keep those lash extensions lasting as long as possible for those clients. In order to do that, it is our duty to inform them how to properly care for them. Tell them in person. Remind them in texts. It’s ideal to also have aftercare instructions on a card for your
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LashBee Nanomister
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This cute little nanomister will contain a refreshing micromist of H20 for hydration! Perfect for your client's new, freshly applied eyelash extensions to cure liquid lash adhesives into a secure, solid adhesive bond.
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Culmine Eye Concealer This formula adheres well to the skin providing uniform, natural looking coverage for uneven skin tone. A special blend of the amino-acid Proline with Palm Oil provides an anti-wrinkle effect for a smoother appearance.
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Lira Clinical.......................................................................................................................... liraclinical.com 37................. Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research................................................................................... lucrece.com 81................. Rejuvi Laboratory................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 55................. Skin Script Skin Care.......................................................................................................... skinscriptrx.com 9................... Viktoria Dé Ann............................................................................................................. viktoriadeann.com *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. 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The
Platinum Body Wand Collection
Over two decades ago, Altair Instruments created the original crystal free diamond-tipped wand, we are setting another industry standard for full body exfoliation. The Platinum Body Wands offer high performance microdermabrasion in a fraction of the time. The larger head size allows you to cover more surface, more efďŹ ciently. The smaller head hugs the contours of the body. Beautiful skin doesn't stop at the neck and neither should your services. Experience the new Platinum Body Wand Collection - For skin that deserves to be seen!
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