LNE & Spa February 2019 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals February 2019

$7.50

THANK YOU FOR VOTING US

FAVORITE SKIN CARE LINE We are honored and grateful that spa professionals voted us their ‘Favorite Skin Care Line’ for an unprecedented 10th year in a row.

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Éminence is proud to have won numerous skin care industry awards which recognize our commitment to providing truly great products.

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Innovation, Rooted in Tradition At Éminence, we believe that innovation paired with tradition creates products that deliver maximum results. We honor our Hungarian roots through our commitment to harvesting and cultivating plants naturally, and we also incorporate cutting-edge research into each product we create.

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At our visitor-friendly Certified Organic Farm in Hungary, we oﬀer tours and teach future generations about natural farming practices.

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If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic® skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.

FROM THE

EDITOR

Bio-Therapeutic

TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED

SKIN CARE

This month’s issue of LNE & Spa is fully centered on an esthetician’s scope of practice and what it means for the way we practice skin care today. When I first conceptualized this guide, I envisioned more of a list of “can’s” and “cannot’s.” However, I quickly remembered that an esthetician’s scope of practice is not the same around the country. The sometimes extreme variations in what an esthetician can legally do in each state makes it difficult to have a meaningful discussion about our scope of practice. To add value to this conversation, I curated a series of thought-provoking articles that will keep you on your toes and remind you how to stay aware of your scope of practice, whether you are a holistic practitioner, a medical esthetician, or a newly licensed esty. Remember to be vigilant in your understanding of your individual state’s regulations and always stay on the lookout for updated legislation regarding new treatments. It is our responsibility to keep our clients and our businesses safe, and staying within the scope of our license is our professional duty. Enjoy all the features in this month’s issue, and start a conversation about what scope of practice means to you with your #estybesty this month!

All the best,

bio-therapeutic.com

Managing Editor

mcristina@LNEonline.com 4

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February volume 34 number 2

contents 4 From the Editor 82 Advertiser Index 30 LNE & Spa Best 2019

Scope of Practice

Medical Estheticians

Alternative Therapies

51 Scope of Practice

Spa of the Month

Wellness Wave

Upgrades and Add-Ons

Organic & Wellness News

Spa News

o&w

20 Upgrades and Add-Ons

68 Wellness Wave

Building Client Relationships

Natural Brows with Tilza Rizzo

#esty2esty

Shape Shifter

Business News

Image News

44 Building Client Relationships

image

business

spa

10 Acne Face Mapping

guide

16 Skin News

skin

10 Acne Face Mapping

76 Shape Shifter

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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C ontributors Ashlee Barnum Aurora Solis Cristina Beecham

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ACNE FACE

MAPPING 10

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Decode Your Client’s Breakouts by Ashlee Barnum

Face mapping is common practice under many skin care philosophies. Chinese medicine and contemporary medicine both use forms of face mapping to make sense of physical symptoms on the face, such as acne, and how they relate to what exactly is going on inside the body. The skin is the body’s largest organ, and is therefore a reflection of our overall health. As estheticians, being able to read the skin is our biggest asset when it comes to treating acne.

All Acne is Not Created Equally Acne is as complex to understand, as it is to treat. The first step in beginning to treat acne is to understand why a particular client is having acne. All acne is not created equal. This is why so often we have clients that come to us having taken every prescription under the sun with no relief. Antibiotics do not work for every acne patient because not all acne is entirely bacterial; just like birth control doesn’t work for all acne because a deficiency or over-production of the sex hormones is not always the cause for acne in women.

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February2019

skin Acne Face Mapping

The key to treating acne successfully is to understand what type of acne your client has. Is it bacterial? Is it hormonal? Is it caused by inflammation related to their diet? Do they have a genetic predisposition to over-active sebaceous glands? These are just some of the many reasons why a person might be experiencing chronic acne. As estheticians, we have to use the tools available to us to figure out the best course of action for our client. Unlike dermatologists, we don’t have the luxury of performing blood tests on the spot to see if our client’s androgen levels are too high, or if they are experiencing elevated cortisol. The best tools we have are our eyes, our hands, and our ability to read the client's skin. Here are some of the most common facial zones where clients experience acne and what they suggest might be going on in the body:

The Forehead: Diet & Stress

Jawline & Chin: The principles of face mapping suggest that recurring breakouts on the forehead are related to poor diet, digestive problems, high stress levels, inadequate or irregular sleep, small intestine issues, liver issues or even reactions to hair products. Discuss your client’s eating habits and sleep patterns. High amounts of sugar and processed foods can often translate into those small pimples on the forehead that are usually difficult to extract and don’t resolve with traditional peels and chemical exfoliants. Encourage your client to adapt a low glycemic diet and drink the recommended amount of water. Irregular sleep, meaning too much, too little or inconsistent sleep, can also rear its ugly head on the forehead. For healthy skin, encourage clients to “live like a clock” and aim to get eight hours of sleep every night, going to bed and rising at a similar hour daily.

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Hormonal Imbalance For many female clients of reproductive age, persistently mild to moderate acne may be a result of over-active hormones. These imbalances typically result in tiny, under the skin bumps resembling milia, as well as painful cysts deep under the skin. An over production of androgen affects sebum production, leading to pores clogging from the inside out. This inside-out effect makes it particularly difficult to treat, as pores continue to fill with sticky sebum no matter how often they are extracted or exfoliated. If you believe your client’s acne is hormonal, encourage them to visit their OB/GYN or endocrinologist to perform the proper blood tests and prescribe appropriate medication. Birth control and spironolactone are commonly prescribed for hormonal acne and are generally very effective.

If your client is reluctant to pursue the prescription route, encourage them to adapt a low-glycemic diet to limit inflammation, avoid dairy and drink plenty of water. Prescribe gentle homeuse skin care that will neither aggravate nor over treat the skin, and leave the heavy exfoliation and extractions for the treatment room, as clients can go overboard easily and make matters worse. Keeping the skin calm and healthy is key!

Nose: Excess Oil Production Persistent blackheads on the nose can be tricky to banish. While traditional Chinese medicinal face mapping attributes nose breakouts to high blood pressure, many clients experience sebaceous filaments and blackheads due

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skin Acne Face Mapping to over-active oil glands, which can be genetic. The most effective method of treatment is gentle BHA exfoliation and extractions. However, keep your client’s moisture barrier in mind when prescribing home care products. Clients are often desperate to clear their skin and end up stripping their acid mantle and causing more harm than good. Unfortunately, sebaceous filaments do not go away. The best thing you can do is try to keep them clean and clear when they do inevitably fill up. Assure your client that there are methods to reducing their appearance when delivering the news.

Neck & Chest: Adrenal Stress According to Chinese medicine, breakouts on the neck and chest are caused by adrenal stress due to high stress

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levels. This can appear as acne breakouts, pigmentation, redness or flushing. Traditional considerations include fragrance usage, inadequate sun protection and hormonal fluctuations. Encourage your client to extend their facial skin care to their neck and décolleté, and perform a patch test before using new fragrances perfumes or body products. Sunscreen usage on the neck and chest is essential to maintain the client's overall youthful appearance.

Hairline: Product Buildup Acne on the hairline is often caused by buildup of hair products, just as shampoos, conditioners, gels, hair spray and styling products. Known as “pomade acne,” breakouts on the forehead, upper back and even chest if the client as long hair can be a sign of overly occlusive hair products. Products that are

oil-based or cream-based, like creams, oils, and pomades, are more likely to cause a breakout. Encourage your client to eliminate products one by one to nail down the culprit. Begin by asking your client to switch to a milder shampoo, like baby shampoo, or to something fragranceand color-free. Rich conditioners are also often to blame for breakouts, so allowing them to have any contact with their scalp. The best practice? Ask your client to lean his or her head back, apply the conditioner no closer than a few inches from the scalp, and rinse, while limiting conditioner-skin contact. Then, cleanse the face and body.

Ashlee Barnum is a licensed esthetician, spa manager, and Head Instructor for Skin Perfect University in Gahanna Ohio. Ashlee has a love for skin care and chemistry.

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JESSICAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SKIN & BODY APOTHECARY Ann Arbor, Michigan

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Where relaxation meets results

SPA OF THE MONTH

by Cristina Beecham

In the ever-urbanizing downtown district of Ann Arbor, Michigan sits a quaint brick building on an unassuming corner. Jessicaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Skin & Body Apothecary is a hidden gem on the crossroads of Ann Arborâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bustling college campus and deep townie roots. Owner Jessica Goniea founded the apothecary in 2012, and now supports a growing staff and continuously evolving line of aromatherapy body products.

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February2019

spa Spa Of The Month

SIGNATURE TREATMENT The signature treatment at Jessica’s Skin & Body Apothecary is the Dermasound Facial (60 min, $130). This incredibly relaxing treatment includes a double cleanse, exfoliating mask, extractions, cavitation, treatment mask, neck and shoulder massage, facial massage, microcurrent, a peel booster (leave on peel), and sonophoresis. Spa owner Jessica explains that “cavitation, or water peel, is used after extractions to clean excess debris from the pores, to exfoliate dead skin cells, and to create pathways for deeper product penetration. Microcurrent (ultrasound plus electrical current) increases ATP in the skin, promotes healthy collagen formation, and encourages cell turnover. Sonophoresis is an infusion modality that allows the products to penetrate deeper into the skin." As an esthetician-owned business, Jessica’s apothecary has become known as “highly qualified skin care experts in the community, especially for those looking for a clean list of ingredients 22

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and a balance of relaxation and results.” Waxing is also a high percentage of their clientele base, mainly due to the student population in Ann Arbor.

MARKETING In a close-knit town like Ann Arbor, Jessica says word of mouth is her most powerful marketing tool. Within her community, Jessica says the spa has “great visibility in the historic Kerrytown District of Ann Arbor, MI, which is home to many locally owned shops, like us, with specialty products and services. The community believes in and supports their local shops even to the extent that our customers mainly purchase from us rather than buying the products we recommend to them online.” Jessica encourages rebookings by “educating, incentivizing, and building trust” with her clients. With every facial at the apothecary, the estheticians add “30 minutes of recovery time. This allows us to spend at least 15 minutes consulting with our clients after their treatment. They are treated to the best

products available in the industry, and provided with a relaxing, supportive space for self-care. When it comes to services like waxing and microblading, retaining our clients has much to do with being highly skilled in our craft and providing a safe and sanitary environment. We also offer rewards cards for facial and Brazilian waxing clients; ten visits earn a gift card.” Social media and digital marketing also play a role in the apothecary’s marketing strategy. Jessica allots “a monthly budget for online (Google Adwords) advertising,” and reinforces their relevancy in the industry with thoughtful and engaging Instagram posts.

TRAINING One benefit of the small busi ness structure is frequent hands on training straight from the business owner. At Jessica’s apothecary, she trains new receptionists one on one. New estheticians are also trained initially by Jessica to cover “spa operations, facial protocols, and product knowledge.”

spa Spa Of The Month

After this orientation, the spa’s lead esthetician, Tiffany, provides “supplemental product knowledge training and advanced Brazilian waxing training and is growing into a lead trainer role. Advanced education is ongoing for our estheticians and as soon as a new esthetician gets started with us the educators from Eminence Organics and Glymed Plus come to the spa either for their quarterly training or a 1:1 with the new hire.” Jessica leads staff meetings less frequently than other spas, saying “We only meet as a team twice per year, for about one and a half hours. Instead, I meet with each staff member individually for 30 minutes on a monthly basis to discuss his or her questions, concerns, and performance.” At these meetings, estheticians are given “a report of their service and product sales from the same month the previous year. Due to seasonality I don't expect them to increase sales every month, instead the goal is increasing sales from the same time period the previous year. In the case of a new esthetician who doesn't have a prior year to compare, I spend more time talking about the art of recommending products, meeting client’s needs, and building client trust and less on sales goals.” Additionally, Jessica meets with her lead esthetician once a month for an hour at the end of the day to plan for “promotions, trainings, and to discuss any concerns either of us have.”

cators and incorporating the line. The products currently stocked are “cruelty free, free of synthetic fragrance, artificial colorants, SLS, parabens, and other unnecessary chemicals. For our locally made products and products we make ourselves, carrier oils must be certified organic and essential oils must be certified organic or come from wildcrafted sources and come with GC/ MS reports.” Education is the biggest driver behind retail sales at the apothecary. Jessica says, “Our product to service ratio is very high due mostly to the education we provide with our treatments and with every product purchase. Our estheticians help clients troubleshoot their home care routine so that each product purchase is meaningful. We track the samples they receive, their purchases, and the regimen they follow in summer versus the winter so that we can more effectively recognize the product that would be the next best fit for their skin. We provide a sample for any product a client has never used before so they can return the product unopened within 30 days should they not care for the sample.”

REVENUE & RETAIL

jessicasapothecary.com 734.545.4303

Jessica curates the apothecary’s retail selection with great care. With a range of clinical skin care and all natural lines, Jessica explains, “We utilize both our pharmaceutical grade skin care line, Glymed Plus, and our organic line, Eminence Organics Skin Care, for a facial that fulfills our motto: where relaxation meets results." Jessica tested each line by receiving multiple facials from other estheticians who carry the line before meeting with brand edu-

Rundown Jessica’s Skin & Body Apothecary 301 N 5th Ave Ann Arbor, MI 48104

percent retail; 26 percent waxing; two percent body treatments; two percent Microblading Retail Lines: Eminence Organic Skin Care; Glymed Plus

Spa Director Spotlight Jessica Goniea has been a licensed esthetician for 18 years. After building the business from the ground up, she got married in 2017 and her husband became an esthetician and joined the Apothecary team. Together, they have been working on further developing their line of Aromatherapy body care products. Jessica is currently working on her Aromatherapy Certification, and lives with her husband and three kids in their farmhouse just outside of Ann Arbor.

Launch: October 2012 Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of

Owner: Jessica Goniea

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion

Client Ratio: 95 percent female; 5 percent male

for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect

Amenities: Three treatment rooms

with her at mcristina@lneonline.com

Breakdown: 39 percent facials; 31 LNEonline.com

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UPGRADES AND

ADD-ONS Create A Win-Win Environment in the Spa by Aurora Solis

Every business owner is concerned with improving his or her numbers. In a spa setting, there are a finite number of ways to increase revenue: either through services, or retails. Within these two main categories, focusing on re-booking clients to increase the booking rate, selling more retail products, and advertising/promotions are all valid ideas to increase revenue and therefore profits. But what about a way to maximize the time spent and money earned with currently scheduled clients? Is there a method to maximize client results and increase the hourly income at the same time? Enter the world of upgrades and add-ons.

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February2019

spa Upgrades and Add-Ons

An upgrade is a one for one swap of time and service...

Yes, There Is A Difference! Upgrades are simply taking a client that’s booked for a fixed time service (let’s use an hour long facial for example) and offering them an option, picking one or two alternative treatments to offer that have both more impact and a higher investment than the originally scheduled service. So we simply swap a less effective one hour service with another one hour service that has a greater benefit and a larger investment to the client. It is important to offer these as lowpressure options, as opposed to high pressure recommendations, and fully explain the differences in the form of features and benefits. If the client feels

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the choice is theirs, they will be comfortable. If they feel pressured, well, you know the resulting fallout from that. An add-on, on the other hand, is a client-based attempt to give them a more valuable, need- filling service and at the same time it usually fills more time in our books. We are, as the term indicates, adding something of value to the service, while normally also adding time to perform the additional treatment. To increase the rate of add-on services, it’s important that you take the incentive to suggest things that might be of interest or fill your client’s needs, especially if you know you have a time gap after their scheduled service and that your client doesn’t have

another service scheduled immediately following. For example, if you go into a facial knowing that you have half an hour free following it, you might quickly ask the client if they have ever done microdermabrasion; and if so, would they like to add a service that both exfoliates (feature) for brighter and fresher skin appearance (benefit) and also smoothes fine lines (benefit) by plumping the skin through stimulating collagen production (feature). Explain that microdermabrasion is an additional investment and takes an additional half hour, as they may have schedule conflicts to be considered. In summary, an upgrade is a one for one swap of time and service, while the add-on typically requires more time than the original service, but not always. Add-ons sometimes can be done within the original time allotment (ie: lip wax) and sometimes come at the client’s request.

Which Is Best? The main consideration when choosing between offering clients an upgrade or an add on is: What does the client need from you and how does your schedule look as you pick them up for their appointment? If your time is locked in with appointments immediately following, the upgrade is your only route to better results. With no time limitation on the backside of your appointment, you can utilize an add-on to better serve the client.

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spa Upgrades and Add-Ons

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s examine the psychology here, as your key to allowing upgrades/addons will lie in your execution and the place from which your efforts come from. The intention should first and foremost come from a place of being firmly entrenched on the side of our clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best interests, knowing their needs and desires, and coming purely from our heart assisting them in any and all ways possible. In â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;allowingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; them to upgrade or add- on, we passionately but neutrally provide education on the features and benefits of their option(s), and let them decide on their choice without additional influence or pressure. For a possible upgrade, asking a question like, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Which service do you see as your best value?â&#x20AC;? can be a very powerful closer. With add-ons, once the features and benefits are fully explained, we might ask, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Should I tell the front desk to book us for that extra

half hour so we can freshen, plump and brighten your skin today?â&#x20AC;?

A Win-Win Situation It is important to not operate from our own self-interests. But ironically, in the long run, most often the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best interests will also serve us. This is the ultimate win-win situation. If the client invests $200 instead of $110 for an hour service with us and gets spectacular results, have we not both won? But even if they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, the simple fact that you offered something better may prime their pump for future visits, as often the client will ultimately see the advantages of your options and choose something better next time. A delayed win-win... So letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s get out of the rut and begin to maximize our clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s results by being proactive with options and choices. Proactive that is, but not aggressive or

pushy. Remember to educate through features and benefits, and let the process gently unfold (allowing). Whether clients choose your options or not, your efforts will pay off for you and the spa eventually. As with recommending retail, service upgrades or add-ons, if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ask youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never know. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not a down side, since the answer is automatically â&#x20AC;&#x153;noâ&#x20AC;? if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bother to ask! And if you truly are invested in the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best interests and results, giving them options for bigger and better is a natural extension. If their results and satisfaction increase, so will their commitment to you. And ultimately, your profit potential will be endless, but first you have to put forth a consistent effort to build the momentum. Build it and they will come!

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February2019

Inner Beauty

Image Skincare, YANA Daily Collagen Shots

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GinaMarie Products, Clarifying Mint Mask

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Infinity Sun, Spa Lite

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Eminence Organic Skin Care, Marine Flower Peptide Serum

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Detox

M.A.D. Skincare, Environmental Detox Mask

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Stem Cell

Nature Pure Labs, Stem Cells Youthful Tissue Rejuvenator

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Kerstin Florian, Correcting Multi-Vitamin Day CrĂ¨me SPF 30

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Sesha Skin Therapy, Maxi Plump Lip Enhancer

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Face Mist

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Le Mieux, Iso Cell Solution

Prana Spa Ceuticals, Cleansing Oil

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February2019

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Bath Soak

Saltability, Himalayan Salt Detox Bath

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Rezenerate, WandPro Cordless

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Innovative Brow

RevitaLash, RevitaBrow Advanced Eyebrow Conditioner

QYKSonic, ZOE

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February2019

Serum

Silver Shell Beauty, Regenerative Serum

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Facial Exfoliant

Skin Script, Retinol 2% Scrub/Mask

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Retinol

Shunly, Vita A,E+ Ceramides Treatment

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Anti-Cellulite

Slim Spa, Slimming & Anti-Cellulite Cream

Neck & Decollete SilcSkin, Decollette Pads

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February2019

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Massage

Susan's CBD, CBD Massage Oil

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Brightening Treatment Sorella Apothecary, Lemon Lightening Serum

Sun Protection

Tizo, Delicate Mineral Sunscreen

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Equipment for the Face

The HydraFacial Company, HydraFacial MD

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Body Exfoliant

Vivant Skin Care, Mandelic Acid 3-in-1 Exfoliating Cleanser

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February2019

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Spa

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Organic Body Wax

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February2019

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Building Client

Relationships How to win over a client and keep them forever by Kristina Mazzenga

For spa owners, creating a successful practice is the ultimate goal. To accomplish this success, there are many components to consider and optimize, including effective marketing, maintaining client relationships and your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; perceptions of value in the services you offer. While each of these elements is unique, all three must be dependent on each other in order for a business to flourish. The very foundation of any business is attracting the client to your practice â&#x20AC;&#x201C; instead of the practice down the street. Once they walk through the door, you must earn their trust and loyalty if you want to ensure a lasting relationship. In turn, the client must recognize the value in the relationship established with you and your practice.

Gaining Exposure It all starts with gaining exposure. There are many effective and inexpensive ways to gain exposure, either as a new or an existing practice. Social media is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Social media can be an excellent and potentially free form of marketing that is not only good for your business, but also allows you to build customer relationships.

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February2019

business Building Client Relationships

With this type of exposure right at your fingertips, it’s almost impossible not to use platforms like Facebook and Instagram to attract and maintain your patient base. On top of that, it is a medium that can be self-managed, which saves the expense of hiring someone to do it for you. If you decide to utilize internet tools for marketing purposes, make sure that your webpage and social media platforms are kept updated with the latest information about your practice. They should include, for example, activities you are participating in and around your community, as well as charities you support. You can post before and after pictures of your clients (with their consent, of course), feature different products and services, write blogs and interview your staff. All of these aspects will make you more visible not only to your current client base, but also to everyone that they are connected to.

Building Relationships Once you have attracted the attention of the clients, it is up to you and your staff to begin building the relationships that will make or break your business. Aside from the obvious benefits of social media, you should also consider fostering a personal connection with clients the minute they enter your practice. Your staff are the face and voice of your business.

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Clients are seeking advice from you as the professional. They should be trained in a variety of ways to best assist your patients, ranging from giving directions to your location over the phone, to what to do in the event of a complication arising from a recent treatment. In order to forge and retain positive relationships, service must be consistent, meeting or exceeding expectations with each and every client.

The Value Factor Once a client has decided that they want to take the next step by selecting and utilizing your services for a specific treatment or product, your staff must not only make them feel valued, but also that there is value in the service for which they are paying. Your clients must value you as a professional, as well as the products and services you offer, if they are going to continue a business relationship. In the client’s mind, they must feel that they are receiving what they expected. Ideally, they should feel they are receiving results greater than what they expected from your services in exchange for the time and money they are investing. Always remember that everyone is put off by a sales pitch. Clients are seeking advice from you as the professional, and advice does not equate to shoving a ton of products and services at them the minute they walk into the treatment room. Long-standing client relationships are built on trust. Trust builds loyalty; trust and loyalty result in compliance; and compliance brings consistent client results. It’s true that sales must be made in order to maintain your business income, but sales based on education are a benefit to the client as well as the service provider. If you are just selling products to turn a profit, the relationship is lost.

Be A Source of Knowledge

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February2019

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It is important that the service provider is skilled at answering clients’ questions. This information must be communicated in a way that is easy to understand. Realistic client expectations must be discussed during the first consultation. Make sure your staff is equipped with tools that will create visual experiences for the client to fully understand the answers to these questions. Before and after photos are one of the best tools to show clients different treatment protocols, and the duration of time it typically takes to achieve the desired

business Building Client Relationships

results. Other visual aids, such as pictures of specific skin conditions and the action mechanisms of the ingredients used to treat these conditions are helpful as well.

maintain a recommended regime, for example – just as the service provider is responsible for the treatments that take place within the treatment room.

Team Work

It is vital to never make promises. If you are unable to deliver on a promise you made to a client in order to make a sale, they will feel devalued, cheated and angry. Any negative feelings your client feels when they leave you are sure to be communicated to anyone willing to listen. While social media networks can be great resources in building your business, they can also work against you, especially when used by an angry client. Your clients place more value to the end of their experience than the beginning. It is the final result that they will equate with the value of their investment. The results are reliant upon the quality of your products and services, and your staff’s ability to use those

Science and technology in the skin health industry are rapidly changing, and your staff’s knowledge must be kept up to date on the latest trends and informational through continuing education. Proper education enables your staff to help clients sift through the hype and false information that is being circulated. Again, this builds the trust that is vital to maintain the relationship. The client must also be made to feel that they are actively participating in the improvement of their condition. This is achieved when the service provider fosters a feeling of “teamwork” with the client, which can be done by providing them with certain responsibilities, such as using an SPF product and

Realistic Expectations

products and services. Most importantly, realist expectations must be set for the client from the start if they are going to be satisfied with the end result. By getting the message out to the right people with the use of social media, putting stock into the relationships you create with every individual client you treat and following through with treatment plans that lead to positive results, you produce long-lasting, valuable relationships that can serve the growth of your practice over time.

Kristina Mazzenga received her bachelor's degree in Social Media Marketing and Broadcasting from Saint Vincent College in Latrobe, Penn. Her computer and cell phone are attached to her hip as she is obsessed with spreading the word! Her passion became her profession. She is now the Editorial Assistant and Social Media Partner for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine.

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esty2esty

ON INSTAGRAM

See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! This month, the Esthetician Edit duo is gearing up for tradeshow season! We’ve got the latest scoop on who’s who at this year’s congresses. Follow our blog for sneak peaks on this year’s keynote speakers, including • This month’s #esty2esty interview • Stay tuned for more exciting featuring Tilza Rizzo @ The Biltmore! giveaways at the Speaker Lounge this year in Philadelphia!

behinds the scenes content and bonus interviews from The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia coming up on April 7 & 8!

• Want us to review your favorite product? Our editor and licensed esthetician is always on the lookout for the best ingredients!

• This month’s Spa of the Month is Jessica’s Skin & Body Apothecary in Ann Arbor, Michigan!

Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!

Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!

@estheticianedit

Business

NEWS Giving Back

Farmhouse Fresh teams up with Modern Beauty Bar to help local Arizona dog shelter.

888.773.9626 farmhousefreshgoods.com

Welcoming New Team Members

Bio-Therapeutic welcomes Crystal Tanti as the new Brand Ambassator of BT Malta.

800.976.2544 bio-therapeutic.com

February2019

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Celluma Expands

For 2019, four new versions of the Celluma are being added to treat pain and acne breakouts! 714.978.0080 celluma.com

Climbing the Ranks

Agua Caliente Casino Resort Spa named number one spa in California.

SCOPE of Practice Your esthetician license and what it means today

LNEonline.com

February2019

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Sofcope

Practice Navigating Legal Grey Areas in Esthetics by Cristina Beecham

At the rate our industry is growing, it seems that technology is evolving faster than individual state legislation can keep up with. This often leaves an uncomfortable grey area for estheticians and med spas trying to gage whether or not they can legally perform the latest skin care services. All over the country, estheticians are struggling to find accurate information about what is legally within their scope of practice. Additionally, the rate of production of new devices without proper legislation makes it even harder for estheticians to decide which device is the safest to add to their practice. When a new device enters the market with the results and science backing it, we cannot help but be eager to add this new tool to our services with the ultimate goal of helping our clients achieve better, faster results. However, often times these devices reach the market faster than each stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s board of cosmetology can debate what the proper licensure to operate these devices should be.

LNEonline.com

February2019

Scope of Practice Guide

For example, microneedling has fast become one of the most sought after skin care treatments from dermatologists, med spas and small practice estheticians around the country. For years, estheticians were able to offer this service legally, simply because there was no legal yes or no answer. However, in the last year, the FDA has finally defined and classified microneedling devices. On June 8, 2018, the FDA issued a rule classifying all microneedling devices as Class II devices. The FDA is now defining microneedling devices as “a device using on or more needles to mechanically puncture and injure skin tissue for aesthetic use. This classification does not include devices intended for transdermal delivery of topical products such as cosmetics, drugs, or biologics.” The order issued by the FDA explains that “[the FDA is] taking this action because [it has] determined that classifying the device into class II (special controls) will provide a reasonable assurance of safety and effectiveness of the device. We believe this action will also enhance patients’ access to beneficial innovative devices, in part by reducing regulatory burdens by placing the device into a lower device class than the automatic class III assignment.” A Class II Medical Device is defined as one that presents a moderate risk of harm to the user. The FDA identifies the following as risks associated with Microneedling: • Adverse tissue reaction • Cross-contamination and infection • Electrical shock or electromagnetic interference with other devices • Damage to underlying tissue including nerves and blood vessels, scaring, and hyper/hypopigmentation While Microneedling is at the top of the hot list of treatments clients are asking for, this new classification might mean that you can no longer legally provide this service. 54

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T h e F D A’s c l a s s i f i c a t i o n o f Microneedling as a Class II device includes all states. However, each state varies in whether or not they allow estheticians to use Class II devices under the scope of their esthetics license. What’s more, every state differs on whether or not estheticians are legally allowed to use Class II medical devices. Navigating this can be difficult, especially when your main focus is bringing your clients the best possible treatments as soon as they hit the market so they can start seeing results. Where To Turn Having a working relationship with your state’s Board of Cosmetology and its board members is vital to not only the safety of your business and your clients, but also for staying current on pend-

ing legislation regarding new tools and devices. Familiarize yourself with your state board’s website and where to find all the literature regarding what is currently within the scope of your practice. Cosmetology schools are also a great resource when it comes to the scope of your license. Instructors are often experts in their state’s legislation when it comes to esthetics and skin care. When To Say No Unfortunately, new and trending treatments are often inundating our social media feeds, and clients are more educated than ever on what the latest devices on the market can do for their skin. It is not uncommon for clients to call requesting services like microneedling, unaware of whether the establishment

Scope of Practice Guide

Familiarize yourself with your state board’s website...

Another option is to build a business relationship with a dermatologist or cosmetic plastic surgeon in the area. This way, you can confidently refer clients out to a specialist who can legally perform advanced treatments, while in return you can receive the pre and post care for the physician’s patients. This is a surefire way to not only ensure the legal protection of your client, but also to make sure your clients are getting the best possible results. Although you may lose the revenue from performing these grey area services, you will be gaining your client’s trust in return.

And you can be sure that for any service within the scope of your license, that client will recommend clients to you for years to come.

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com

they are calling is legally allowed to perform the service. Clients are often looking for the least expensive service they can find, regardless of the service provider’s level of licensing and experience. It is your job as the esthetician to safeguard your clients and educate them when they come in requesting these types of services. Assure them that you are offering the most high quality treatments legally available. What’s more, remind them that you are responsible for their safety when in the treatment room, and any esthetician who offers services outside the scope of their practice is putting them in danger and should be immediately reported to the state board. Safe Guards When you find yourself offering services that are in a legal grey area, much like microneedling was before recent legislation, there are a few safety measures you should take when performing these services on clients. Always keep consent forms on hand for clients to sign before receiving treatment. While these forms do not offer any substantial legal protection, they are a way to ensure that the client is aware of what treatment they are about to receive, and what the possible risks involved are. LNEonline.com

February2019

Medical Estheticians How to expand your scope of practice by Aurora Solis

February2019

LNEonline.com

According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the employment rate of skin care specialists is expected to grow 14 percent between 2016 and 2026. That’s faster than the national average for job growth. While this is exciting news for industry, it is also a reminder of the competitive job market and the importance of staying on your A game. When trying to advance their skillset, many estheticians ponder the thought of becoming a “medical esthetician,” believing that this will not only add to their list of services, but also increase their earning potential. Before you make up your mind on becoming a medical esthetician, let’s get into the facts on the different in scope of practice between esthis and medical esthis.

Defining The Job First and foremost, an accurate definition of esthetician and medical esthetician is needed. Generally speaking, estheticians are skin care specialists that generally work in spa or salon settings and treat the outer layers of the epidermis with non-invasive or minimally invasive procedures. They can cleanse, and exfoliate the skin, perform facial massage and aromatherapy. Estheticians are skilled at analyzing the skin and recommending over the counter treatment plans for topical skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation and aging skin. They can work alone, or in a team of other estheticians and do not need medical supervision to perform treatments.

LNEonline.com

February2019

Scope of Practice Guide

A medical esthetician, also known as a clinical or paramedical esthetician, is trained to work together with other medical professionals in medical settings such as plastic surgery offices, dermatology offices and medical spas. Medical estheticians treat more severe skin conditions, such as cancer patients; burn victims; and others with healthrelated issues. They treat and maintain facial skin that has been damaged because of fire, surgery, chemotherapy treatments, and other incidents. Medical estheticians can administer deeper, more potent peels and laser treatments.

Qualifications A common misconception about medical estheticians is that they have a higher degree of licensing or education than non-medical estheticians. In reality, estheticians working in the medical field do not have medical training of any kind, but apply traditional, complimentary and alternative treatments under the on-site supervision of a licensed healthcare professional. Medical estheticians are held to the exact same state licensing standards as spa estheticians. This means all estheticians, whether they work as medical estheticians or spa estheticians, are required to hold the same state-issued license. Becoming a medical esthetician typically follows a standard set of steps that involves getting the right kind of formal education and training, passing the exams necessary for state licensure, and pursuing advanced credentials through continuing education. More advanced programs specific to esthetics procedures within the medical setting are generally reserved for licensed estheticians, and are not widely available. What does all this mean? Simply put, it means that any esthetician can be a medical esthetician given additional hands on training and supervision by a board certified physician! 58

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What’s the big difference? There are two main differences to consider when determining if you want to go the medical esthetician route, or not. The first is workplace environment. Almost always, medical estheticians work in doctors’ offices or highly clinical atmospheres. While the ultra-sterile, professional environment is conducive to more serious skin care treatments, it’s not for everyone. On the opposite end of the spectrum, non-medical estheticians can work in a seemingly limitless range of settings. Some dermatology offices do employ estheticians to perform facials. Estheticians can also work

in resort spas, day spas, med spas, and solo studios and even residences in some states. Ask your self what type of environment you see your self working in: • Do you see yourself working along side doctors and other highly trained medical professionals? • Do you want to work closely with other estheticians at a similar skill level to form a more level playing field? • Do you prefer a relaxing, therapeutic atmosphere with spa aromas and soft music?

Scope of Practice Guide

A common misconception about medical estheticians is that they have a higher degree of licensing or education than non-medical estheticians.

• Do you prefer crisp, clean, white décor with a quiet and serious tone? • Do you want to be your own boss with the ability to pack up and move your business at any time? • Do you want to be supervised by a physician to allow you to perform more advanced treatments under his or her direction? These are all things to consider when deciding what work environment will best support your happiness and fulfillment in your career.

LNEonline.com

February2019

Scope of Practice Guide

The other main differentiation between medical and non-medical estheticians in their scope of practice. While a medical esthetician does not necessarily have the ability to perform a wider range of services on their own, their scope of practice does increase when under the supervision of a physician. Medical estheticians are often trained to provide these services under instruction by a medical professional: • Dermal filler • Botox injection • Laser hair removal • Photofacial skin rejuvenation • Laser wrinkle reduction • Tattoo removal • Body contouring • Skin tightening • Sclerotherapy

February2019

LNEonline.com

Independence and The Entrepreneurial Drive A factor that is often over-looked is the potential for independence, entrepreneurship and earning potential. Because medical estheticians must work under the supervision of a board certified physician to perform the services added to their scope of practice, medical estheticians are not as often their own boss as estheticians are. Medical estheticians may be self-employed entrepreneurs who contract their services to medical practices. If you desire to take the entrepreneurial route, once you are a trained and licensed medical esthetician, you can look for a physi-

cian who is not currently in the medical esthetics industry to partner with. The ideal physician partner has a busy practice that does not offer cosmetic medicine. For estheticians, while the per hour rate is slightly lower than medical estheticians, they do have the option of working independently and starting a business with unlimited earning potential. As of May 2016, skin care specialists in general earned a median hourly wage of $14.55, according to the BLS. For medical aestheticians who work in offices of physicians, as of May 2016 the median hourly wage was even higher at $17.96, according to the BLS.

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Alternative THERAPIES

February2019

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How to Navigate the World of Wellness Through Your Scope of Practice by Halley Hargonich

As the spa industry continues to trend and unravel into creating a wellness enriched lifestyle, estheticians and spa professional must continue to mind licensure and how we can practice wellness while maintaining the standards for our statutes according to each of our statesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; requirements as a provider of specific therapies esthetics. But, when incorporating the aspect of wellness within your spa practice, there can be regulations we are not aware of for the safety of the guests and the liability for the owner. There is always a focus to maintain high standards that follow the state laws of the board of cosmetology, along with the goal of enhancing our guestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well being, holistically. How can we incorporate wellness treatments in our spa while remaining in a legal scope of practice as estheticians? LNEonline.com

February2019

Scope of Practice Guide

Proper Licensure In my state, a Facial Specialist is recognized by the board as someone who performs “massaging or treating of the face or scalp with oils, creams, lotions, or other preparations. These services must be preformed in a licensed salon.” With that said, we need to educate ourselves on obtaining the correct license to become a salon owner or a licensed esthetician. In the state of Florida, to become a licensed facial specialist you must receive your cosmetology license. Certain criteria’s follow: you must be over the age of 16 years old and complete 1200 hours of education with hands on training. Once you have conquered obtaining your license through the Board of Cosmetology, you are now able to pursue your own ventures in owning a salon/ spa! You can find recent information on your state’s local website for applicable laws online for becoming a salon owner, because it does take numerous licenses to begin running your own business, such as building permits, business operation license, and the fire department permit, plus many other legal documents.

Defining Alternative Therapies When you have your own spa facility, posting and identifying proper procedures in the work place will always keep staff informed of the guidelines available as they can refer back to them. Also, having a skilled lead therapist who continues to maintain the practice, and in detail trains from the spa’s SOP (standard operating procedure) is vital. After you have embarked on receiving your cosmetology license and store front spa or hotel resort spa (dreams are a part of success, too), the answer on how we stay in the guidelines and properly abide and uphold state statutes for wellness spas is being sure that whatever products or machines are being used must be presented and passed by the Department of Health. In effort to comply with the Department 64

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of Health in order to provide holistic treatments, however, any product that is organic or natural to its’ contents and how it is produced must be presented along with any tools or instruments per usage that would be suggested as an “alternative” treatment. At times, difficulty can arise when we are offering wellness or holistic treatments in our spas; one might consider “alternative therapy” as a substitute to cosmetics, medicine, and pain or stress relief. When in fact, all we are creating when providing our spa service menu with wellness targeted services are ways that we can rejuvenate our inner wellbeing, our health to live longer (fingers crossed) in a community of connection that keeps us all knowledgeable. Spas that identify as wellness centers can be a far extreme between different types pertaining to their way of modern therapy. The source of the treatment must provide dedicated time

from your guest to enhance their vitality. This could mean offering a retreat or ritual at your spa. If it were a retreat, ideally the guest would stay for more than three nights and have meals and activities designed into a program especially for cosmetic procedures that absolutely should have follow up care in a wellness facility, along with esthetics based routines for skin care. A ritual can be a specific service from your day spa or resort spa that classifies with as a wellness/holistic facial. In terms of facial rejuvenation, services can include, but are not at all limited too: facials (including lactic or glycolic peels, AHA peels, micro-needling, microdermabrasion etc.…); waxing (the brand and procedure helps to determine if it falls under the category of wellness); and clarifying acne skin care. Some tools may be: infrared lights, oxygen machines, and even salt therapy or permanent ink (more on those topics in another issue).

Scope of Practice Guide to incorporate such tools or products into your spa menu. Having a comprehensive workshop towards your goals of providing wellness can be a proficient way to dedicate investing time as a director or owner. This is a direction that we want to encourage, as an opportunity to be educated, trained and have a common ground of assisting ourselves and business to the next level- the new way; in a community that is progressively guiding us to achieving a more positive awareness on our wellbeing, and maintain a scope practice, keeping us all safe and recognizable with the statutes in our state, as a place that holistically one can begin their journey to a better wellbeing. Together with the right leads, communication, and education, we can integrate the boardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulations and practices of wellness to our spas, community of vendors and associations, and clients.

The list can go on and on. It is all about how you present the ideas of wellness as your objective to a healthy lifestyle and centering the focus for the individual (guest).

A New Age of Tools The other side of the spectrum, where we are not just trying to offer wellness to our guests, but that there is a possibility the treatment being offered does not fall under regulations of the Department of Health or the treatment is falsified as wellness. In the spa industry, we are recognizing new ways in development for esthetics care. Some of the new aged tools are not yet sanctioned or approved by the board. Careful consideration should be acknowledged as one starts to become engaged in such offerings of services. So, be sure to do your research on what your establishment is going to offer and how the board regulates it, or where you are getting your treatments. Educating through your particular vendors, who already have passed their products, or materials through the board will be a successful way to maintain the scope of practice. In particular, finding your local associations for spa vendor/ education round tables, where you are provided with one on one time to advance your spaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wellness attribute, you will be able to ask questions and figure as partners if together you can build a relationship suitable LNEonline.com

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Heath and Wellness Trends for 2019 by Cristina Beecham

The global wellness industry has reached an all-time high of 3.7 trillion dollars, according to the Global Wellness Summit’s 2018 Global Wellness Trends Report. As people around the globe begin to embrace wellness and take their health into their own hands, new trends continue to arise every year. With the turn of the New Year just behind us, this year’s wellness trends are starting to take shape. It’s time to wake up to this year’s wellness trends and take advantage of the growing business opportunities at your fingertips! Here are LNE & Spa’s top five wellness trends for 2019:

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organic & wellness Wellness Wave

with an added focus on how sleep affects our hormones, and therefore our mood and feeling of wellbeing. In a person with healthy sleep habits, cortisol should peak in the morning to get us alert and ready for the day. Conversely, melatonin should peak in the even to prepare us for a deep slumber. Unfortunately, poor sleep habits can get these patterns out of whack and make us feel drowsy and stressed. Prepare to see a rise in sleep related drinks, supplements and gadgets to help us regulate, track and analyze our own sleep patterns. Use these tools to your advantage in the treatment room to treat stress related acne and premature aging. Educate your client on the importance of proper sleep and encourage them to track their sleep patterns to see continued improvement in their mood and their skin!

Brain Food

CBD Goes Mainstream If you missed the CBD train last year, don’t worry! It’s not going anywhere in 2019. In fact, the growing commercialization of CBD means more people are becoming familiar with, educated about, and users of CBD. This means more clients will be open to trying topical CBD spa and skin care treatments, as well as alternative CBD therapies in wellness centers. The every day consumer is no longer scared away by misinformation about CBD and its non-existent psychoactive effects. The compound is nonpsychoactive (meaning it does not produce the ‘high’ associated with cannabis use), making it a safe and effective option for users who may be concerned about the mind-altering effects of other cannabinoids such as THC. The health benefits of CBD are vast, ranging from pain relief to anti-anxiety, anti-seizure and improved sleep. Topically, CBD will help calm, soothe, heal and revitalize any skin in treatment. It works to support the controlled healing process both pre- and post-laser or

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chemical peel. CBD provides a supportive anti-aging, acne facial treatment and it can be used to calm post-wax, even preventing ingrown hairs. Take advantage of the growing acceptance of CBD by striking up a conversation with your clients. What is their experience with CBD? What have they heard about it? Stock high quality CBD infused products and samples so clients can try it in the comfort of their own home before diving into the world of CBD skin care and spa treatments.

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Sleep Science We’re all familiar with the circadian rhythm. It’s out body’s natural biological clock. Contrary to popular knowledge, our circadian rhythm dictates more than just sleep. It regulates two important hormones: cortisol and melatonin. The stress and sleep hormones, respectively. In 2019, the importance of our sleep cycle will be centered on more than just catching enough zzz’s. Sleep science is going even deeper

As a child struggling to eat your vegetables, did your mother ever tell you it was “brain food” in order to convince you to eat it? Did it work? This is the concept behind another one of 2019’s breakthrough wellness trends: brain health. In the past year, new information about brain health and the current rate of brain related illnesses has emerged, awakening the population to the reality that our brain is an organ, too, and we need to take proper care of it. With the growing rate of Alzheimer’s, brain health and awareness is more important than ever before. Current statistics show that by the year 2050, the cost of Alzheimer’s disease with completely overwhelm our health care system. This is way the practice of prevention is a major wellness trend for 2019. The focus turns to nutrition when practicing preventative brain health. Nutrients such as antioxidants and healthy fats are key for providing the brain with proper fuel. Similarly, the brain must be properly exercised. Make it a point to learn a new language or skill to help strengthen your brain.

organic & wellness Wellness Wave

The toll that technology takes on our brain should not be ignored. From the overexposure to blue light, to the declining interaction with others in exchange for more screen time, make personal connection a priority this year.

Active Recovery Nothing heals sore, injured muscles better than RICE: rest, ice, compression, elevation, right? Well, this wellness trend for 2019 might say otherwise. High tech recovery is emerging as the latest generation of tools and machines for muscle recovery take the stage. Recovery gadgets such as massage guns and vibrational recovery beds are helping athletes and everyday gymgoers recover from their workouts with purpose. Backed by science, the latest reachers confirms what many of us in the massage industry already know: that massage therapy improves muscle

performance and increases range of motion after workouts. Today, consumers are looking for ways to bring that massage therapy recovery element into their homes. Recovery gadgets are helping them do just that.

Transparency As consumers are getting more educated on what they should be putting in and on their bodies, beauty and wellness brands can no longer hide behind aesthetically pleasing packaging to shield undesirable ingredients. If there’s one thing consumers are demanding of the personal care industry, it’s transparency. We want to know exactly what is in our products, and we don’t want to go on a journey to find it. Clearly labeled ingredient lists are now becoming a focus on packaging labels.

From tampons to supplements to facial creams and oils, no brand is safe from this new consumer demand for better ethics when it comes to ingredient transparency. Be a driving force behind your client’s quest for transparency by sharing with them what ingredients you are using in the treatment room, and give them helpful printouts to take with them into the grocery store and beauty counter with a list of good and bad ingredients to look for when glancing at product labels.

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Organic & Wellness

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Behind The Spa Door Tilza Rizzo with at The Biltmore, Coral Gables, FL

How long have you been doing brow services? I’ve been doing brows for over 22 years. I started as a makeup artist and while working on clients, I would start fixing up their brows. It all grew from there!

What is your favorite thing about doing brows? Eyebrows can make you look ten years younger and ten pounds thinner! It’s an easy way to get a natural lift and bring out a woman’s natural beauty.

How long have you been in your current studio? I have been in my current space for six years. When I first moved to Florida, I opened a makeup studio in Palm Beach. I wanted to bring in all my favorite brands as a makeup artists and I knew the area had a

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lot of snow birds that would be familiar with the makeup lines I carried. I built a large clientele there and gained recognition for doing brows. Unfortnatley, I had to close the studio. I had always followed Anastasia Beverly Hills, even since the 90s. They needed a brow artist so I took the job and was their most successful brow artist for many years. Eventually, it was time for me to have my own space and I couldn’t think of a better place than the Biltmore.

What do you like best about working from the Biltmore? It’s just a beautiful hotel. You get the best quality clients and have access to many locals. I have a great relationship with the director, they trust me and believe what I recommend is best for clients. It’s the best of both worlds.

Do you offer other services besides brows? I offer brow shaping, brow tints, microblading, lash lifts and full face waxing.

What is the newest service you offer? My most recently added service is the lash lift. I’ve been doing it for about a year and a half. I like to focus on one thing at a time, so once I had mastered brows and microblading, I felt I could add another service to my menu. Brows are still my favorite!

What brow trends are you excited to embrace this year, and which are you ready to leave behind? I’m excited about the natural bushy brows that are coming in style. I love leaving brows a little messy with hairs going in different directions. It hides imperfections in the brows. I’m ready to ditch the over-done brows! Too much highlighting, just like on the face, is great for photos but isn’t realistic in everyday life.

What is your average client demographic? I have a broad range of clients. From young girls around 11 years old whose mothers want to make sure they don’t ruin their brows, to women in their 50s looking to grow out their brows from over tweezing in the 90s!

Do you see male clients often? Not as often, but I do see them. With male clients, it’s important not to shape too much! It can make the brows look too feminine.

What is your go-to regimen for growing back over-plucked brows? I can’t underestimate how important it is to brush your brows. It helps exfoliate the skin under the brows and bring

circulation to the skin around the brows to promote growth. I always give my clients a few spoolies and instruct them to brush their brows before cleansing their skin. I recommend Revitalash to help grow the brows and have seen great results!

How do you use social media to grow your business? Social media is great because it gives you a presence. It’s a good way to see people’s work. You no longer have to carry around a portfolio! I definitely notice that when I’m active on social media, I gain more clients. It’s difficult to stay on top of it, but younger artists are already trained to use social media so they are one step ahead!

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Shape Shifter Makeup for Every Face Shape and Structure by Jaclyn Peresetsky

Just like skin care, makeup is not “one size fits all.” Have you noticed that certain makeup shades bring out facial features while other shades conceal facial features? Your client’s face structure plays a very important role in determining how to apply makeup, in particular which facial features to highlight to make them look their very best. Here’s how to balance your client’s features and emphasize the assets of their face shape – round, oval, heart-shaped or square – by using makeup to contour.

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image Shape Shifter

ĖĺOval Faces Oval faces are considered symmetric with perfect proportions. The length of an oval face is about one and a half times its width, and the jaw line is slightly tapered. If your client falls in this category, you’re in luck! Oval faces work well with most makeup trends and usually require little highlighting or contouring. Your ideal makeup look is blush applied in an upsweep motion from the most prominent part of the cheeks, the apples, and toward the temples. Then, add either a bold lip or a bold eye (not both!) to finish the look.

ĖĺRound Shaped Faces Because round faces are generally fuller – face width is about equal to face length – they also tend to look more youthful as compared to other face shapes. To help add definition to a round face and achieve a more oval look, contour the jaw line, temples and cheeks. Slim and lengthen the face by applying bronzer under the cheekbones and apply blush above the imaginary line at the base of the nose. To help 78

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further pronounce the cheekbones, sweep a highlighter on top. As features can get lost in a round face, a smoky eye with a strong eyeliner helps further define the face.

ĖĺSquare Shaped Faces Square faces are characterized by strong facial lines, such as an angular jaw and broad forehead. To soften the “corners” of the face, contour the hairline by the jaw line and temples. Your ideal makeup look is soft and shimmery, which will help further soften angular features. By highlighting the middle of the forehead, under the eyes and nose, and chin you will draw attention to the center of the face and away from the strong lines of the jaw and forehead. Finish the look with a rosy cream blush on the apples of the cheeks and a sheer lip with soft pink lip gloss.

ĖĺHeart Shaped Face Heart-shaped faces are wider at the forehead with prominent cheekbones and more tapered at the jaw line. To create the illusion of an oval face, con-

tour the temples and underneath the cheekbones and apply a highlighter to the middle of the forehead, under the eyes and the chin. Play up your beautiful cheekbones with a light application of blush. Avoid too much blush or highlighter on the cheekbones since they’re already pronounced!

ĖĺPear Shaped Face Pear-shaped faces are usually fuller in the jaw and narrower near the forehead, so creating the illusion of either a fuller upper face or a slimmer jaw, will help make such face look more oval. To create the illusion of a narrower jaw line, use bronzer to slim the contours of the jaw. Use blush to bring attention to the upper cheek bones, adding volume to the upper half of the face to create balance. Use a powder highlight in the middle of the face, such as the center of the forehead and tip of the chin to make the face appear more centered. Finally, accentuate the eyes rather than the lips to downplay the wider lower face and choose a muted lip color.

image Shape Shifter

Taking note of your client’s facial features is just as important as their face shape when applying makeup. If clients have a facial feature they are not particularly fond of, you can use makeup to help adjust how it looks.

noses can be made to appear narrower by applying a darker concealer or foundation to both sides of the nose. You can widen a narrow nose by applying a light concealer or foundation down both sides of the nose.

ĖĺNose

ĖĺEyes

A concealer can dramatically change the appearance of the client’s facial features. Light colors help lengthen and fill out facial features and brighten the skin. On the contrary, dark colors help reduce, deepen and conceal features. To make a long nose appear shorter, apply a darker concealer or foundation right on the tip of the nose and blend in well to make the nose appear shorter. Make a short nose appear longer by applying a light foundation along the top of the nose to give it a less-defined edge and look more lengthened. Broad

If your client has close-set eyes, you can make them appear wider by applying a light, shimmery shadow to the entire lid. Working outward, line the eyelid halfway across the eye. Avoid lining the inner third of the eye, as this will only draw attention to the inner eye accentuating the closeness of the eyes. When it comes to narrow set eyes, you can also enhance their appearance! It’s all about the technique of shaping, highlighting and shading. First, open up the eye with an eyelash curler extending lashes away from the eye.

To further help create the illusion of a larger eye, dab a highlighter or shade of white shimmery eye shadow under the brow bone and blend, a touch to the center of the lid and also the inner corners – the eyes will instantly pop and light up! Using dark eyeliner, draw a line close to the upper lash and extend the line just outside the corner of the eye.

Jaclyn Peresetsky is not only the owner of Skin Perfect Spas in Ohio and Florida, but she is also a noted color expert, makeup artist, master esthetician, author and speaker. Her multiple books, cosmetic and skin care lines, and training courses allow other beauty pros to learn and add more services combining art and science to become leading beauty experts.

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Page Number

47................. Advanced Medical Aesthetic Solution ...................................................................................meditimeusa.com 84................. Altair Instruments............................................................................................................. altairinstruments.com 28................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.................................................................................beauinstitute.com 65................. Bio France Lab ....................................................................................................................... biofrancelab.com 4,5................ Bio-Therapeutic .................................................................................................................bio-therapeutic.com 14................. 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Make this year a beautiful one

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