LNE & Spa December 2018 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals December 2018

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FROM THE

EDITOR

Bio-Therapeutic

TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED

SKIN CARE

Another amazing year at LNE & Spa has gone by! Can you believe 2018 is almost over? With all the exciting changes and innovations our industry saw this year, it’s no wonder the time flew by! In an effort to avoid too much self-reflection, I want to bring the year to an end by looking straight ahead into the New Year! We have so much in store for 2019… LNE & Spa Magazine will be launching a new online blog, Esthetician Edit, which many of you already follow on Instagram! Somewhat of a passion project for our Director of Digital Marketing, Mika Diaz, and me, Esthetician Edit is the fresh-faced younger sister of LNE & Spa Magazine. Our goal is to capture the digital hearts and minds of the future of estheticians. With quick, cute and fun yet timeless and professional content, Esthetician Edit is a must-follow supplement to LNE & Spa! If you’re not already, follow @estheticianedit on Instagram for some amazing video content, mini tutorials, giveaways and behind

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the scenes of the spa industry.

I can’t wait to share all that the New Year is bringing to LNE & Spa with you all! In the meantime, have a joyous holiday!

Happy Holidays!

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Cristina Beecham Managing Editor

mcristina@LNEonline.com December2018

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December volume 33 number 12

contents 6 From the Editor 82 Advertiser Index

The New Spa Menu

18 Senior Facials

Spa Menu Consistency

Profit Focused Menu Design

Spa Menu Overhauls

Detox Photo Feature

45 Spa Menu Guide

Dtox Day Spa

Ginger Goodness

Bringing CBD into the Spa

Organic & Wellness News

Spa News

business

30 Bringing CBD into the Spa 36

Miami Congress Recap

Big Retail for Small Spas

Business News

38 Big Retail for Small Spas

o&w

12 Salicylic Acid

68 Ginger Goodness

image

spa

skin

22 Skin News

guide

12 Salicylic Acid

Grow Your Lash Business

Wax vs. Laser

Image News

76 Wax vs. Laser

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Director of Marketing Stephanie Batier Rives De Lavays Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Brian Goodwin Carrie Borzillo Cristina Beecham Ella Cressman

Jaclyn Peresetsky Lori Crete Mika Diaz

Lila Castellanos Pam Stellema Victoria Tabak

V I S I T

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Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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Salicylic Acid A deeper understanding of this acne-fighting powerhouse

by Brian Goodwin

December2018

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When it comes to acids and exfoliation in skin care, many questions can arise in the treatment room regarding choosing the most effective professional treatments, as well as making the best possible home care recommendations. Common questions estheticians ask are, “How do I choose the best acid for my clients' concerns with their skin?” or “What exactly is this acid doing to the physiology of the skin to provide benefit for this specific skin condition?” With the vast variety of acids available to estheticians in skin care, determining the best acid for each skin condition can often become overwhelming. One of these acids, Salicylic acid, is a miracle ingredient that has been used throughout history to treat multiple ailments, and today, it is used to effectively treat a variety of skin conditions. Before salicylic acid was known as an exfoliating agent and used in chemical peels and acne treatments, willow bark from the White Willow Tree (Salix Alba) was used for centuries to treat a multitude of conditions, which included treating aches and pains as well as reducing fevers. The inner bark of the willow tree contains a naturally-occurring chemical called salicin, which is one of the bark’s actives that provides its innate anti-inflammatory properties by blocking specific hormones that regulate inflammation. With the advances of science and chemistry over the years, it was discovered that salicin could then be oxidized and converted into the modern ingredient known as salicylic acid, leading to the creation of remarkable modern-day medicines, such as aspirin and results-oriented skin care treatments.

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December2018

skin Salicylic Acid

WHO IS IT FOR? As a general statement, salicylic acid is primarily used on oily, congested and acne-prone skin types and this is due to salicylic acid being a lipophilic or oil-soluble acid, which means that it has the ability to break down sebum. It also softens and breaks down keratinocytes (or skin cells) and increases their shedding. Another unique aspect of salicylic acid is that is has a smaller molecular structure than other hydroxy acids, which facilitates its ability to penetrate deeper into the follicle, clear congestion and pore blockages, as well as prevent new blockages from forming. These benefits extend to breakouts on the body and salicylic acid can be included in formulations for face and body washes, masks, serums, moisturizers and peels. Ironically, a disadvantage that can present itself when using salicylic acid is also due to its particle size. Due to the smaller molecular structure, the acid penetrates deeply and quickly into the follicle, beginning to break down skin cells and sebum almost immediately upon contact. Using higher percentageformulated salicylic acid peels could potentially create unintended inflammation and irritation. Salicylic acid can also cause frosting or blanching in the skin, which presents a challenge for skin tones that fall into higher Fitzpatrick categories due to their predisposition towards inflammatory pigment reactions. For skin tones on the Fitzpatrick scale of four or greater, there is a higher content of melanin in the skin as well as an increased melanocyte reaction to inflammation. All forms of physical trauma and injury cause an inflammatory reaction, including heat exposure, UV damage, laser treatments, and chemical peels. As a reaction to the trauma, melanocytes or pigmentproducing cells release pigment as a form of protection, intended or not, causing a darkening of the pigment of the skin which becomes an increasing challenge to treat. Despite salicylic acid being anti-inflammatory by nature, 14

December2018

when it is in a peel formulation with an acidic pH and larger percentages, the exfoliating properties also increase, leading to causing potential pigment inducing trauma to the skin. Thankfully, new technology with salicylic acid is available, making it a safe and effective ingredient to use on virtually all skin types and tones. This technology is encapsulation, which utilizes vegetable lipids to surround the particle of salicylic acid with a lipid sphere or capsule that time releases the salicylic acid into the skin, avoiding potential irritation and side effects. This same technology also facilitates even deeper penetration and greater adhesion to the structure of the skin versus traditional salicylic acid, allowing superior results from lower percentage formulations. Furthermore, the encapsulation technology creates the opportunity for sensitive or rosacea skin types and Fitzpatrick four or higher skin tones to receive salicylic acid peels, which normally is contraindicated.

ADDITIONAL USES There are three categories of acids that are typically utilized in skin care: Alpha Hydroxy, Beta Hydroxy, and Alpha Keto Acids. Alpha Hydroxy and Alpha Keto

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Acids differ from Beta Hydroxy (salicylic acid) in the fact that they are water-soluble and break down the water-based chemical bonds or cement that holds skin cells together. Alpha Hydroxy Acids are typically derived from fruits, such as grapes, apples, and lemons, as well as milk, while Alpha Keto Acids can be derived from fruit or flower sources. These acids also have the potential to increase hyaluronic acid and stimulate collagen, which makes them ideal for dry, aging and hyperpigmented skin types. As the body ages, the strength of the glue that holds the layers of skin cells together increases, leading to an augmented layer of corneocytes or the topmost layer of skin cells within the epidermis. This is also due to a decrease in new cell production and change in cellular turnover rates. These corneocyte cells are flat, brittle and become dehydrated as they migrate to the top, which is partially responsible for the increase in dullness and change in the texture of the skin with age. With this increased thickness comes a resistance to penetration of product as well as impeding the action of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, which can have a dif-

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skin Salicylic Acid

ficult time penetrating through this thickened layer on their own. Salicylic acid is an additional tool that, when combined with Alpha Hydroxy Acids, can function to drive penetration and increase both ingredients’ effectiveness, providing increased benefits for advanced aging skin types. It’s the equivalent of adding a bulldozer to the demolition crew of the skin to knock down the structure and walls more effectively. Salicylic acid also provides relief for psoriatic skin conditions by increasing skin shedding and relieving inflamma-

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tion. By nature, psoriasis is an overabundance of skin cells creating a distinctive appearance of “scaling,” resulting in an interference of essential skin function. The common symptoms that follow are itching, irritation and inflammation as a reaction, which many clients find unbearable. Due to salicylic acid’s properties (anti-inflammatory, keratinocyte softening), it is an effective treatment to manage psoriasis symptoms and, when used as an encapsulated delivery system, could potentially make it even more effective. This is due to an increase in the depth of penetration as well as the length of active exfoliation, all while avoiding potential negative effects because of the time-released delivery the encapsulation technology provides. Keratosis Pilaris is another skin condition that salicylic acid provides relief of symptoms for. Keratosis Pilaris is a skin condition most commonly occurring on the backs of the arms, but it can also occur on the legs, face and back, distinguished as dry, red, raised bumps. While the exact root cause is still unknown, Keratosis Pilaris develops when dead skin cells plug and congest the hair follicle, and sufferers often find it difficult not to pick the bumps, leading to excoriation, inflammation and sometimes scarring. Due to salicylic acid's keratinocyte softening and exfoliating properties, it facilitates the clearing of the follicle from dead skin cells and provides relief of the associated inflammation. Combining salicylic acid with glycolic acid or lactic acid (both Alpha Hydroxy Acids) gives additional benefit through an increase in hydration and moisture barrier function. Continued use of both acids in milder formulations can also function as a preventative treatment to reduce Keratosis Pilaris reoccurrence. In summary, salicylic acid is an invaluable tool, both in the treatment room as well as for clients’ home care systems, varying from an ingredient utilized in an anti-acne cleanser or moisturizer, to an effective peel option for a variety of skin conditions. In addition, it provides an effective way of boosting anti-aging treatments when combined with Alpha Hydroxy Acids to facilitate better penetration, deeper exfoliation and an increase in the clearing of dead skin cells. The encapsulation technology now available also makes the uses of salicylic acid seem boundless, as this delivery system allows usage on skin conditions which traditionally don’t tolerate salicylic acid application. Salicylic acid has come a long way from the days when tree bark was applied directly to the skin!

Brian Goodwin is an International Educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a Master Medical Esthetician, Master Herbalist and Consultant with over 10 years of experience in the spa industry, Brian brings his love and enthusiasm for skin care to the masses with his passionate, fun and educational trainings.

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SENIOR

FACIALS 18

December2018

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A holistic approach for mature skin by Victoria Tabak

When treating a senior client, a holistic plan of action would be most suitable. As a person matures, there are many changes, including physical, physiological, mental and emotional. Choosing an appropriate therapy should be based on overall health and sensitivity of the client. Depending on the desired results, the range from which to select an optimal treatment certainly does not fall short. Senior facials can offer a gentle and relaxing escape for the client or intend to repair skin concerns including but not limited to pigmentation, wrinkles, dehydration or loss of elasticity and firmness. Health is critical at any age. Skin reflects any imbalance or illness from within, including those imposed by certain health conditions. A person in senior years has to pay special attention to maintain overall well-being. A healthy nutritious diet, staying hydrated, exercise and mental positivity by way of meditation, as an example, are all parts of the whole to promote wellness and support younger looking skin. A holistic approach must be applied to solidify treatment success.

CLIENT EXPECTATIONS It is important first to understand who the client is and what are their skin needs, concerns and expectations. The targeted demographic is likely closer to the later stages of menopause, or in the post-menopausal phase. For male clients similarly, it pertains to andropause. During post-menopause, the accelerated aging process begins to slow and stabilize. The period in which the most dramatic signs of aging progressively accumulated settles. With that in mind, when determining what treatment to offer a senior client, there are several considerations. Is the client looking for simply a relaxing and soothing experience? Is the client seeking to have dramatic skin transformational result? How sensitive is the client? What is the level of treatment intensity or aggressiveness with which the client is comfortable? Based on this information, a proper treatment plan can be created.

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December2018

skin Senior Facials

RELAX AND DETOX It is common that with age, personal tolerance to discomfort may change. In such cases, treatments which entail sensations that may be uncomfortable in their nature, such as a stinging or itchiness that may accompany certain kinds of peels or micro-needling for example, would not be the best option for these types of clients. For clients with greater sensitivities, treatments should be calming in their entirety. Relaxation inducing treatment protocols should primarily focus on results-driven but gentle ingredients. Light therapies and microcurrent are also great additions; they can contribute to achieving visible results immediately following the service. Performing a lymphatic drainage stimulating facial massage will not only feel pleasant for the client, but will provide many wellness benefits. The lymphatic system is accountable for purifying and detoxifying the body. A massage of this nature will boost circulation, work to purge cells of toxins and waste, and will help drain backed up fluid throughout the face. It will improve facial swelling and it promotes immunity. Gentle botanical ingredients such as aloe vera, ginkgo biloba, green tea, sea buckthorn, St. Johnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wort, chamomile, calendula and arnica are some examples that offer a multitude of benefits. They are nourishing, rich with antioxidants to combat cell-damaging free radicals, anti-inflammatory, to counter skin sensitivity or redness, and they complement modern day ingredients. These more advanced age management ingredients include ceramides, peptides, stem cells, phyto-hormones, hyaluronic acid and resveratrol. The ultimate goal is to synergistically repair the skin and alter it back to a more youthful appearance.

AGE MANAGEMENT Some prominent age signs include dryness, dehydration, fine lines, wrinkles, 20

December2018

Senior skin may have dramatic loss of volume... and loose or sagging skin. Senior skin may have dramatic loss of volume because of the significant recession of collagen and elastin production. The cause of the dryness and dehydration most commonly is because of the sluggish sebaceous gland activity. The sebaceous glands produce oil that is essential to keeping skin moisturized and from becoming dry. Aging slows the oil producing sebaceous glands responsible for skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural self-lubrication ability. This forces skin to be entirely dependent on an external source for moisture through topical product application. The delicate skin surrounding the eyes is an area of the face that needs a special amount of attention. It is the thinnest skin anywhere on the body with no oil glands. Applying a rich nourishing cream will keep the area moisturized. Incorporating ingredients like vitamin K and kojic acid when treating the eyes will help remedy under eye dark circles. The skin undergoes many changes during menopause, which are predominantly a result of hormone fluctuations. Although there are medical options to address menopausal symptoms including accelerated skin aging, phytohormones offer a natural prescriptionfree safe alternative. Phyto-hormones are derived from the following plant extracts: soy isoflavones, wild yams or clover. They are truly unique in their ability to trigger hormone receptor response, but without actually introducing foreign hormones into the body. The decline of estrogen during menopause causes many hormone receptors to be-

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come stagnant, hence the exponential changes that occur within the body and the skin. With consist use, phyto-hormones subtly but cumulatively counter this progression. Using products containing phytohormones in senior facial treatments would be most appropriate to achieve age reversing benefits. By naturally awakening hormone receptors, the process initiates cellular memory. Every cell in the body has a memory, and by jump-starting it, the cells begin to behave as they did when they were younger. The skin can then be empowered to help itself. Genestin derived from soy isoflavones is specifically responsible for awakening receptors because its similar chemical structure to estrogen. Diosgenin derived from wild yams works to boost the self-lubricating action of the skin by stimulating androgen receptors. This enables the sebaceous glands to better generate sebum, which allows the oil to restore moisture on the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface. To simplify, phyto-hormones excite cellular memory and behavior, which leads cells to behave as they did when skin was younger, therefore allowing for an age revering effect.

PIGMENTATION There is great demand in the senior niche community for solutions that improve age spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation that become especially pronounced with age. For starters, teaching the client about continuous sun protection at any age is the first defense against further sun damage

skin Senior Facials or other more threatening skin conditions. Restoring pigmentation in senior clients can be achieved with treatments involving a peel either chemical, botanical or a combination of both. Certainly, peeling is an effective and beneficial form of exfoliation that delivers immediate visible results. Depending on the type of peel and the ingredients at work, skin can become brighter and smoother. It enables and activates regeneration of the outer stratum corneum layer of the epidermis. A superficial to a medium depth peel will improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and foster collagen production. Enzymatic botanical peeling is performed with enzymes derived from pumpkins, papaya or pineapple. Chemical peels utilizing alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic are an excellent option to incorporate as a standalone service to seniors or as a step in a multi-facetted facial protocol. Ingredients that inhibit tyrosinase should be used to treat hyperpigmentation. They encourage skin lightening by suppressing melanin production. Some botanical examples include licorice root, arginine, mulberry, arbutin and resveratrol. For homecare, recommending a skin-lightening product is critical to maintain results. One option to consider for localized hyperpigmentation is a serum containing hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is derived from propolis resin and it is considered one of the most aggressive skin lightening agents. Regardless of the exact selection or type of products, as long as they are appropriate to the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specific concerns, home maintenance is indispensable.

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A holistic program is ideal when strategizing how to treat an older client. Senior facials are not only recommended, but they are also essential as part of a total regimen to support healthy skin and body wellness and to lessen the signs of aging. As part of a whole, eating a balanced nutritious diet rich in colorful vitamin-rich fruits and vegetables, drinking plenty of water, prioritizing physical activity, and even meditation for mental exercise are all factors to review with the client to mitigate aging symptoms. A clearly defined plan to treat skin and body, which should include all aspects of care within the professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scope of practice, will actuate successful results that are satisfying to both the client and the esthetician.

Victoria Tabak, published beauty expert, two state licensed esthetician, spa consultant, educator and president of Nature Pure Labs, has more than 19 years of experience in the beauty industry along with a Masterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Degree in Business, minor in chemistry. For over a decade, she has taught about emerging breakthroughs in the skin care industry, has inspired many, and contributed to the growth and success of spa owners across the country.

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December2018

EXFOLIATE AND RENEW!

Bioelements’ new Skin Editor™ is a powerful exfoliator that works to edit skin imperfections and long-term damage to instantly smooth rough and bumpy texture, diminish dullness, brighten dark damage, improve clarity + color, target congestion, hydrate, and reduce the look of lines – all without harsh skin-stripping or surface-scraping. If your clients use it at night it can quickly correct past skin sins, and environmental stress signs.

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Keeping a sterile and clean service area is crucial to the success of any skincare practice. That’s why the silicone parts and accessories used with Bio-Therapeutic equipment and accessories are infused with Silver Ion technology for its continuous antibacterial and antimicrobial properties. Silver has a long history of use in human healthcare and medicine.

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BRING BACK THE MATTE

Fade To Light™ Serum from YG Laboratories is a fast absorbing, highly concentrated mattifying serum starts working immediately to smooth away discolored surface cells, unclog oxidized sebum, banish breakoutcausing microbes, and rapidly fade the appearance of UV-induced pigmentation and age spots.

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December2018

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DTOX

DAY SPA Los Angeles, California

A spacious escape from the urban lifestyle SPA OF THE MONTH

by Cristina Beecham

Outside the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles, California, Dtox Day Spa stands out against the subdued bakeries and shops in Atwater Village. This modern oasis is eye-catching from the sidewalk with its large glass windows and welcoming earthytones. Dtox Day Spa is a needed escape for California locals with its minimalist vibe and Asian flare. Offering both esthetics and massage treatments for men, women and couples, Dtox Spa is equipped with all the amenities of a resort spa in a more quaint and private environment. Featured on The Ellen Show, this holistic haven is as results-oriented as it is wellness-focused.

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December2018

spa Spa Of The Month

SIGNATURE TREATMENT Upon our arrival to Dtox Day Spa, the spa’s Lead Esthetician and Esthetics Manager, Jannette Martinez, welcomed us with a tour of the women’s facilities, which include a steam room and sauna, as well as a spacious lounge area. A locker with a plush robe and slippers is provided upon arrival. The treatment performed was the Microdermabrasion Facial using Eminence Organic Skin Care (50 minutes, $165). The treatment is designed to “remove dead skin with ultra-fine crystals to decrease the appearance of hyperpigmentation and sun damage.” It also “helps diminish fine lines, wrinkles and shallow acne scars for a smoother appearance.” This treatment covers the entire face and neck, with the option for a décolleté add on for $30 additional. Jannette begins the treatment by cleansing the skin with a pulsating cleansing brush head. Next, she applies a gentle enzyme exfoliant to prep

December2018

the skin for the microdermabrasion and removes it with a warm towel. Dtox Day Spa uses a crystal microdermabrasion, as they find it gentle enough for all clients. Once the microdermabrasion is complete, Jannette custom mixes a mask with her hydrating toner and applies it generously with her hands. The mask is removed and followed with a beautiful application of facial moisturizer. When working with organic products, Jannette recommends thoroughly warming the product in your hands before applying to the client’s skin.

FACILITIES Dtox Day Spa has spacious and accommodating facilities that are more reminiscent of a resort spa. With high ceilings and a large relaxation area, the dim lighting and warm décor evoke relaxation and reflection while awaiting treatment. The spa’s “airy treatment rooms are gently illuminated by

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candlelight while the expansive relaxation atrium features 15-foot double waterfalls and a large Buddha of healing powers.” With renewable and ecofriendly features, the spa is true to its mission of healing. Dtox Day Spa takes pride in offering one of the best couples experiences in Los Angeles. With the Complete Couples Day Spa Package, couples can experience a Signature Massage (80 minutes), Dtox Custom Facial (50 minutes), Organic Sea Salt Scrub (20 minutes), Herbal Tub Soak in the couples room (20 minutes) and choice of a Body Wrap (50 minutes). This 220 minute service connects couples with a romantic and relaxing spa experience. The locker rooms at Dtox Day Spa feature a dry sauna, steam room, and shower facilities, as well as any amenity that clients might need when getting ready before or after their treatment. With three treatment rooms and a variety of skin care treatments such as

spa Spa Of The Month

Rundown Dtox Day Spa 3206 Los Feliz Blvd. Los Angeles, California 90039 323.665.3869 dtoxdayspa.com Owner: Austin Aducci oxygen therapy, HydraFacial, microdermabrasion and advanced peels, Dtox Day Spa is equipped to handle any skin condition or concern that walks through their doors!

RETAIL The spa’s retail area is located as soon as you walk in, with copious amounts of natural light from the large windows shining on the beautifully organized white shelving containing the spa’s retail products. With white square shelving, the minimalist design of the retail space is inviting while not overwhelming clients as they come and go. Along with Eminence Organic Skin Care, the spa also curates and carries its own line of skin care, including their best selling Pollution Solution Mist. The retail area is also stocked with additional gifts such has candles. Dtox Day Spa has also just announced that it will now carry Well CBD, joining the

CBD wave that is sweeping the spa and wellness industry!

MARKETING A day spa with such extensive facilities should not go unnoticed! Dtox Day Spa makes use of almost all popular spa marketing techniques. The spa’s Instagram page is beautifully laid out with captivating images and skin care tips to create a cohesive aesthetic true to the spa’s interior. From health tips to new product launches, Dtox Day Spa’s social media profiles help capture new clients while educating current clients on health and beauty trends. The spa’s website also feature a blog. With article topics ranging from sun damage to Valentine’s Day treatments, the blog is a great educational tool that helps establish the spa as a go-to source for beauty and wellness knowledge.

Spa Manager: Michael Apodaca Lead Esthetician: Jannette Martinez Facilities: three treatment rooms; steam room; dry sauna; men’s and women’s lockers; couples suite; relaxation atrium Services: massage; facial; body treatments; waxing; tinting; couples packages; day packages; bridal packages

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com

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December2018

BRINGING

CBD

INTO THE SPA

December2018

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How to incorporate CBD skin care into your menu by Ella Cressman

For the past few years, our industry has been asking a question that began with an apprehensive whisper and has now grown to a curious roar. The question is: What is CBD? The simplest answer is: Cannabidiol (CBD) is a chemical compound, a phytocannabinoid, from the cannabis sativa plant that works with a system already existing in our bodies, the Endocannabinoid System (ECS). The ECS was discovered by a group of Israeli researchers and named in the early 1990s. The ECS communicates with all the systems in our body and effectively works to establish homeostasis, or balance. Phytocannabinoids, like CBD, work alongside endocannabinoids (made by our bodies) to signal the ECS into action. Based on increasing understanding and popularity, we have seen an influx of CBD-infused products in the spa and skin care market. The reason? There is scientific and anecdotal evidence that shows using quality products containing CBD helps to address our client’s main skin concerns: Aging, Acne, Pigment and Sensitivity. In each skin concern, we can identify an imbalance: This process is too slow: Aging is a slowing of cell production compounded by lazy elastin and collagen production. With that slowing, there’s an opportunity for delinquent melanin to creep in and present as age spots and other signs of the regrettable “fun in the sun” had up to this point. Because the ECS is critically responsible for the life cycle of basal skin cells, encouraging the ECS with topically applied CBD will help regulate production of healthy, vibrant, radiant skin.

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December2018

spa Bringing CBD into the Spa

These processes are too fast: Acne can be the result of an over or underproduction of oil, an overproduction of skin cells, an imbalance of bacteria, or sometimes, the perfect storm of all three. Science has shown CBD works to regulate sebum production while calming irritated skin and protecting pigment from trauma. As well, sensitive skin can be a result of overstimulation. Acting as an anti-inflammatory, CBD begins to calm and then strengthen compromised, irritated skin. This makes everything just right CBD can be a real powerhouse ingredient. It is an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and acts as an antibacterial, antitumoral and antimicrobial. Studies have shown it to regulate sebum production and melanogenesis while simultaneously regulating cell proliferation and differentiation. Currently, there are no known contraindications in using CBD-infused skin care. By adding CBD into your treatment offerings, in addition to retail home care, your clients will notice an emerging complexion that is clear, even and youthful.

NOT EVERY CBD PRODUCT IS CREATED EQUALLY. With the rising popularity and curiosity building around CBD infusions, we have seen several emerging product brands that appear to be jumping on a trend that’s not fully understood. Legitimate companies will take several factors into consideration for formulation. Considerations for CBD products should be the following: Hemp vs. Marijuana – CBD extracted from industrial hemp is considered federally legal because of the Agricultural Act (farm bill) of 2014 and further clarifications specified in the Agricultural Act (farm bill) of 2018. The legality of CBD extracted from marijuana will currently be determined on a state-by-state basis. To err on the side of legal caution, and because the molecular structure of CBD is the same 32

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regardless, it may be in one’s best interest to ensure any CBD incorporated into products originates from plants classified as industrial hemp. Further, be sure you are compliant with local and state industrial hemp regulations. Where is it grown? Because hemp is a bio-accumulator and pulls toxins from the soil and air, hemp should be grown using organic practices domestically (in the U.S.), where organic hemp farming is held to specific agricultural regulatory standards. There is no guarantee of source or efficacy if purchasing CBD from overseas. How is it extracted? The cleanest way to extract CBD used in skin care formulations, while protecting reliable efficacy, is supercritical C02 extraction. There are several extraction methods, however this method allows measurable purity, which will result in product consistency. What’s in the formula? CBD is powerful, but cannot work effectively without the help of some complimentary ingredients:

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• Skin-friendly oils rich in omega fatty acids like Organic Hemp Seed Oil or Organic Rose Hip Seed Oil help CBD penetrate and enhance communication with the receptors in the ECS.

• Botanical lightening agents such as organic licorice, mulberry root and organic watermelon extract compliment the melanin regulation properties CBD provides.

• As a super antioxidant, CBD pairs well with other well-known antioxidants in Vitamins A, C and E.

• If you want a super anti-inflammatory to use post-laser, post-chemical peel or even post-wax, look for the power couple of CBD and Macadamia Nut oil and watch your client’s skin calm right before your eyes.

• Advanced product formulations also include peptides and stem cells, which further enhance healthy cell proliferation and differentiation.

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spa Bringing CBD into the Spa rience. No matter how corrective your treatments are, a good massage to the neck and shoulders is a great way to keep them coming back.

• Masque – A CBD-infused masque combined with active ingredients can be used for a variety of intentional purposes, from brightening to hydrating and even anti-aging. Because masque application sets for eight-15 minutes, this is an opportunity for CBD to really penetrate and work its magic.

• Serum – A serum containing ingredients such as CBD, hyaluronic acid and firming peptides works universally to support healthy, vibrant skin and is great for most (if not all) clients.

• Moisturize and Protect – A balancing

• Because you are a sophisticated skin care practitioner, be sure you are using products that are intentionally crafted with high quality, effective ingredients that encompass more than CBD, essential oils and coconut oil, even if it is fractionated.

• Additionally, be sure to find a company led by those who are passionate about accurately educating on the healing properties CBD provides and not just capitalizing on an inaccurately perceived trend.

How and where do you incorporate CBD in your menu of services?

Everywhere! Whether you want to offer CBD throughout your services, or add as an enhancement option, CBD will help calm, soothe, heal and revitalize any skin in treatment. It works to support the controlled healing process both pre- and post-laser or chemical peel. CBD provides a supportive antiaging, acne facial treatment and it can be used to calm post-wax, even preventing ingrown hairs. 34

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Here is an example of a complete CBD facial:

• Cleanse (first and/or second) – A cleanser infused with CBD excites the ECS and prepares it to receive messages from following product applications. Use an ultrasonic spatula to remove cleanser to get a head start in the following exfoliation and disincrustation process.

• Exfoliator – Whether mechanical or enzymatic, using a CBD-infused exfoliator provides an even removal of skin cells, while providing an anti-inflammatory property ensuring the skin stays calm and uncompromised.

moisturizer including or followed by a full-spectrum, physical sunscreen is the perfect way to complete this treatment. Look for CBD complimented with UV reparative agents (watermelon extract for example) complimented with Zinc or Titanium. Whether you decide to incorporate CBD into your treatments now or later, you should take time to understand it. Your clients are hearing about CBD and it will be a matter of time before they ask you about its powerful possibilities. Find a credible, authentic company to help you along the way. If you are more of a self-learner, explore scientific studies published by credible peer-reviewed agencies and avoid the potential misinformation in Google searching.

Ella Cressman is the Director of

• Post Extraction – Try a CBD-infused

Sales and Education for Color

toner or serum post-extraction to provide toning, anti-bacterial properties.

• Massage – Facial massage may seem like an obvious place to add CBDinfused products, but the analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects CBD provides will only work to enhance massage efficiency, thus increasing the client expe-

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Up Therapeutics. Cressman became a licensed esthetician in 2007 after attending the College of International Esthetics. In 2009, she became a skin care educator and industry mentor. She achieved an Organic Skin Care Formulation Certificate in 2016 and is expected to earn an Organic Skin Care Formulation Diploma in late 2018.

LEADING IN LUXURY

The brand new spa table MLR Select comes in three elegant and highly functional versions: MLR Select Alu, MLR Select Wood and MLR Select Static. Equipped with two strong lifting columns, the MLR Select provides maximum legroom with versatile adjustability. With many optional features such as a programmable heating system, eight memory positions, locking function, soft polster option and much more, the MLR Select is a new star on the spa horizon.

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LENDING A HAND

SilcSkin Hand Treatment a silicone hand lotion designed to treat wrinkles like scars. Custom formulated to smooth crepey skin non-invasively, this Hand Treatment pulls the skin’s natural moisture to the surface, hydrating and improving the collagen structure while creating a protective barrier on the skin’s surface.

The new TM-3 Mini by Equipro is a compact version of one of the greatest classic of Equipro. The TM-3 Mini is made of metal so it’s heat-resistant and it has the same features as the standard TM3. This means the power bar on the back and the magnifier holder on each side are included. You can also add a trio rack or a bowl. This table can fit in any beauty room.

877.324.2226 equipro-bty.com

SPA DIRECTOR HIGHLIGHT

Nancy Rodriguez-Falero has been named spa director of the award-winning SiSpa at Palm Beach Marriott Singer Island Beach Resort & Spa, ranked among the top 15 resorts in Florida by Condé Nast Traveler in its 2018 Readers’ Choice Awards. She brings a wealth of industry knowledge and expertise to her role at the world-class seaside sanctuary.

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

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855.745.2756 silcskin.com

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December2018

MIAMI, FL

2018

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Miami took over the Hyatt Regency in Downtown Miami on October 28th and 29th! This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s show was full of new and exciting energy! Estheticians from near and far came to experience first-hand the top-notch education that ICES has to offer. From the Miami debut of the ICES Spa Show app, to inspiring and captivating presentations on the Main Stage, attendees and exhibitors had more innovative ways to connect and learn than ever before!

December2018

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MAIN STAGE MANIA The Main Stage was hosted by makeup artist and color expert Jaclyn Peresetsky. Jaclyn is not only the owner of Skin Perfect Spas in Ohio and Florida, but she is also a noted color expert, makeup artist, master esthetician, author and speaker. Her training courses and multiple books, cosmetic and skin care lines allow other beauty pros to learn and add more services combining art and science to become leading beauty experts. Nerida Joy was another show stopping presence on the Miami stage. With her YouTube following around the globe, estheticians from South America were thrilled to see Nerida speak about the importance of skin analysis and the power that estheticians have when working with the skin. After her lecture, dozens of estheticians lined up at the Speaker Lounge, hosted by Esthetician Edit and LNE & Spa to take photos with Nerida and ask her more personal questions. Lori Crete gave an inspiring lecture on why estheticians should start to see themselves as entrepreneurs and delivered a powerful story of how she became a part of this industry. Using several powerful female CEO’s and business owners in the cosmetics industry as an example of success, Lori inspired the audience to dream bigger and take themselves seriously!

“wall” where attendees could leave comments and ask each other questions during the show! Push notifications delivered important announcements straight to their phones in real time!

EXHIBIT HALL Industry favorites and breakthrough beauty brands were anxious to set up their booths before the show. With this year’s increased attendance, attention to detail and high-energy were must-haves as exhibitors brought their best and brightest to Miami. The exhibit floor energy was at an all-time high, as thousands of attendees took to the aisles before their favorite products sold out. Exhibitors had a blast educating and interacting with estheticians using their products and looking for new lines to carry. Each and every brand representative left energized and excited for next year’s show season after a huge success in Miami!

NEW WAYS TO CONNECT The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Miami was able to interact through the new show app, ICES Spa Show. By downloading the free app to their smartphones, (iOS or Android) attendees were able to see the exhibit floor map, create a schedule for their Workshop classes, and find all the info on their favorite speakers from the Main Stage. The app also features a messaging feature, where attendees can connect and chat with each other through the app. There is even a

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December2018

BIG RETAIL

FOR SMALL SPAS 38

December2018

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How to increase your sales as a solo esthetician by Mika Diaz

No matter the size of your skin care business, you are always looking for ways to bring in extra revenue. As a solo esthetician, selling retail products might be the last thing on your list of to-doâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. You have so many important tasks at hand: finding a location, buying product, getting clients to pay for your services, paying the rent, being your own business manager. You might think that retail for solo estheticians seems like too much added stress with too little added benefit. Think again! Retail for solo estheticians is an easy way to bring in the extra bucks at the end of the month. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go over how to incorporate retail products without breaking the bank, ending up with overstock, or forcing sales upon your hard-earned clients.

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December2018

business Big Retail for Small Spas

Choosing Your Retail Products The time to consider what products you want to sell is when you are considering what to use in your professional treatments. Finding a line that will translate well, both at home and in the treatment room, takes time and research. Your products need to pack a punch in the treatment room, but remain easy to use and gentle enough for clients to use on their own. Make sure you sample plenty of products, and read their ingredients thoroughly. Check with each brand to see what options they have for retail sizing, promotions, and free samples. As a solo esthetician, it’s important to have a good relationship with your brand representative, as they will be the ones helping you order and giving you bonus perks that will make a huge difference in your budget. Refrain from buying too many different products. For a solo esthetician, one line of retail that will suit many clients’ needs is the most efficient way to go. Remember that clients often won’t use a cleanser, toner, exfoliant, serum, eye cream, moisturizer, etc. There’s no need to go out and buy every retail product to stock your shelf. Stick to the basics; if you have a client craving more, you can order accordingly. Here are the basics that you should have in stock for every client: • Gentle Cleanser • Exfoliating Cleanser • Antioxidant Serum • Moisturizer • SPF These will make sure your client’s skin is cleansed, hydrated, and protected between facial appointments. Start small, and you can order more as you go.

access to many different service providers. That being said, the last thing you want to do is jeopardize that relationship by seeming overly aggressive or sales driven. In fact, your current thought might be that you don’t want to sell at all, exactly for that reason – to avoid pressuring or seeming desperate. You are an authentic and caring service provider. Look at retail product as a way of taking care of your clients when you can’t be there. Give them the most complete service by helping them out at home with professional products chosen just for them. The key to selling retail for solo estheticians is being authentic. Show the client that you care about the health of their skin, and having a proper home care regimen is vital to continuing the progress you make in the treatment room. Assure them that you wouldn’t sell them anything they didn’t need, and remind them that it doesn’t work if they don’t use it. This will make them feel like you are caring for their skin, not your wallet.

A Personal Approach The Sales Pitch As a solo esthetician, you will often form stronger and more personal bonds with your clients than you would working in a big spa or salon where clients have 40

December2018

A great sales technique to give your clients a unique experience while being transparent and authentic is to ask your client to bring in the products they are currently using at home. By reviewing

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with the client her current products, you can both educate her on why ingredients might not be so great, while simultaneously making a mental note of the items she needs now, and what she might need in the future. Unless the client is using products that are actively wrecking havoc on her skin, encourage her to finish using what she has, then purchase your recommended products. This makes the client feel like you are not in a rush to get her money, but rather are understanding of her time, money, and space in the medicine cabinet! Educating clients about their current products is a unique, personalized experience that clients won’t find at a larger spa. As a solo esthetician, you have the freedom to speak openly with your clients about their skin care routines. Use this to your advantage!

The Sample Solution Who doesn’t love free samples? And who doesn’t love feeling generous when giving them out? Samples are a great way to introduce clients to new products, but they can also be a oneway ticket to forming bad habits in your clients. If clients get too accustomed to you generosity, those full-size retail products might never leave your shelves.

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business Big Retail for Small Spas

Reap The Benefits of Repeat Purchases

The key to using product samples to your advantage is to only dole them out when the client is making a purchase or when you are recommending a product they have never used before. For example, if a client takes your advice and purchases a good cleanser and an SPF, go ahead and give her a sample of your antioxidant serum. This way, she can see if she likes adding the extra step into her routine, and you are still bringing in some extra revenue. Everybody wins. If you have a client with severe acne who is completely unfamiliar with the concept of an enzyme peel, offering a sample is a great way to introduce the client to the concept of exfoliating treatments. But if the client uses acids regularly, and just wants to try something new, you’re better off using it in a treatment, and then selling the full size product.

Your client bought the cleanser, serum and SPF, great! You’ve got some extra cash on hand, and your client’s skin is going to be a-okay for the next month or two. But many estheticians fall into the single purchase retail hole, and find that initial purchases, even from every one of their clients, isn’t steady enough income to make it worth while. Here are some great tips to get your clients to repurchase retail products: -Keep a record of who bought what, and when. This way, you know when they should be running out and ready to make a new purchase. -Make a note of instructing your clients on how often they should be using each product. Emphasize the importance of everyday use to see results. -Take advantage of seasonal changes! Every four months or so, remind your clients that the temperature and

humidity is changing, which will effect their exfoliation and moisturizing regimens. -Introduce new and exciting products during treatment. While the client is on your facial bed, educate them about the product as they are feeling it work on their skin. Creating sensory memories is a great driver for retail sales! -Include retail products in your promotions and incentivize your clients. For example, offer your client a free brow wax with the purchase of two products.

Mika Diaz is the Director of Marketing for Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa Magazine. Mika studied Business and Fashion in Miami before working in Public Relations. After ten years in the fashion world, she is now taking her talents to the skin care industry.

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ANNET KING JOINS THE BIO-THERAPEUTIC TEAM!

Bio-Therapeutic welcomes Annet King to the team as their new VP of Business Development. In her new role as VP of Business Development at Bio-Therapeutic, she brings a wealth of expertise, experience, and relationships that will be focused on global strategic brand development and expansion, while using her vast knowledge to refine and redefine our internal, client based, and institutional educational systems.

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OLIVE OIL DOES EVERYTHING!

McEvoy Ranch, one of the top U.S. producers of estate-grown, certified organic extra virgin olive oil, is pleased to announce the launch of its new skin care line from ODE natural beauty, McEvoy Ranchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s acclaimed eco-luxe prestige beauty collection. Embracing the philosophy that Olive Oil Does Everything, ODE Skincare products are designed to cleanse, hydrate, and moisturize the face.

THE FUTURE OF MASSAGE

The NHI Massage Therapy Ambassador Scholarship covers the cost for one National Holistic Institute (NHI) senior or graduate to attend the annual American Massage Therapy Association (AMTA) National Convention, providing the recipient with access to industry leaders, educational sessions, networking venues and hands-on experience with professional products. Rebecca Ramirez de Arellano, LMT, a 2015 graduate of NHI, received the 2018 scholarship and attended the AMTA National Convention held in Washington DC.

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SPA MENU

guide

The Power of Menu Design LNEonline.com

December2018

w e N U N E M A P S THE

December2018

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Micro Information for a Macro Impact by Lori Crete

A menu of services is one of the most important foundational elements of a spa. Often found on your website, it is a direct reflection of your spa, showcasing what you offer, how you deliver it, and what you will charge for the service. Although it sounds simple, it is often the ‘make or break’ as to whether someone will book an appointment with you. Just as someone strolling down the street peruses a menu on the sidewalk to see if a restaurant’s offer is appealing to them, your clients do the same whether you realize it or not. They may access your menu online, review it in print, or come in to view it in person. Moreover, when a potential client sees your menu, you want to make the biggest impact possible, almost leaving it irresistible to book an appointment immediately. However, the problem is that most spas are doing spa menus wrong.

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December2018

Spa Menu Guide

I’m going to let you in on a big juicy secret. It’s 2018, and if your spa menu reads like a playwright, you’re doing it wrong too. Technology and innovation are fueling the way we communicate with each other and businesses, and the world is changing before our eyes. We cannot operate the way we did even five years ago and expect the same results. Consumers have shifted the way they do business—they want to do it quickly and without issue. It used to be that when a customer wanted to book an appointment, they used their phone on the wall to call the front desk to inquire about making an appointment, and receptionists used to call home phones for appointment reminders. Now, this process happens seamlessly, all under the radar. They are searching online for what they want, quickly scan a webpage, and when they find it, they reserve their spot online without direct human interaction. What were once common forms of communication have now been replaced by texts and emails, and clients are now accustomed to receiving a text or email appointment confirmation as opposed to a long-winded call from a receptionist. The beauty business is not immune to this shift just because we offer handson services. If you’re not shifting the way you operate your business to accommodate the way your clients want to engage with you, you’re going to be left behind. As a growing number of consumers use their smartphones to locate and book spa appointments, it’s imperative your menu and website be designed to win them over via mobile. You can do this by using short, digestible bits of information conversationally. While you might offer the best facial services in all of Southern California, your clients don’t have time (or the capacity for sensory overload) to read a twoparagraph description outlining every single detail on your 20-treatment-options menu. You can also leave clients 48

December2018

feeling confused if you use words like “melasma” and “photodamage” on your menu of services. How do you share micro information to make a macro impact? It is quite simple. You cut the fluff by keeping it simple, organized and written for the right client.

WRITE FOR THE RIGHT CLIENT Your menu should be tailored to the exact type of client you want to attract and cut the rest out. Consider the services you like to offer and what lights your beauty biz soul on fire, and outline what type of client would come in for this service. I call this person your BCE or Best Client Ever. This is the person you want all your clients to be like, and this is the type of person you want more of in your business.

LIKE ATTRACTS LIKE Your offerings should match your BCE, meaning if your spa is an eco-chic holistic skin care center that caters to middle-aged women, you shouldn’t have pictures of a teenager with acne on your menu and website—and you

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shouldn’t offer a service for it either. Alternatively, if you’re an acne clinic who sees teenagers and younger skin types predominately, make sure your menu reflects this, and you’re selling to the right demographic. Teenagers with acne won’t be attracted to a spa menu that doesn’t implicitly sell them on your ability to manage their acne. Remember, like attracts like, and your spa menu should be like the clients you want to attract.

START THE CONVERSATION Your menu should be conversational, not like you’re reading a manuscript. It should speak to the client whose skin care concerns you want to address, in a way you would talk to them in person.

WISE ON WORDS Choose your words wisely. You want to use words that are commonly expressed to describe skin care concerns and issues while being succinct and impactful. Avoid using technical or industry terms such as telangiectasia, hyperpigmentation, and comedones. Instead, use words like redness, brown spots, and breakouts. These are words clients un-

Spa Menu Guide

equately address their needs with just a few effective options, and they will appreciate the tailored services.

BE PROFESSIONAL

derstand and are immediately relatable. You can showcase your knowledge in the treatment room.

HIDE OR SEEK In addition to understandable words, you want your clients to be able to find you through Google searches. Use words that are commonly used by your clients when designing your menu and website. You can enrich your exposure to more ideal clients who use the same type of words when describing their skin care concerns.

PAIN POINTS Pain points are what push people to seek solutions. It’s an unresolved problem or issue the client has. For instance, for lash stylists, your client’s pain point may be light colored lashes that only show up with mascara—and they don’t have time for makeup in the mornings because of their busy lifestyle. You could speak to this pain point by saying, “Busy mornings will be a breeze. Your eyelashes are ready the moment you open your eyes.” If you speak to their pain points, you’ll sell them on your services.

WHEN IN DOUBT, HIRE IT OUT You want your menu to creatively entice your potential clients. If you’re not a wordsmith or don’t have time to put together a compelling list, consider hiring a copywriter to do it for you. Many freelancers specialize in this line of work. At the very least, make sure your menu is proofread and mistake free.

KEEP IT SIMPLE One of the biggest mistakes I see estheticians make is trying to offer everything to everyone. This is impossible! Instead, focus on a signature service and a few other treatments. Your signature service should be a reflection of your business philosophy and a showcasing of your specialty. The signature could offer a sampling of a few of your favorite modalities, or be a specific one. As for the other treatments on your menu, it’s best to aim for three to four, and no more. You can alter a client’s perception of satisfaction by offering too many menu items, leaving them with a feeling of “missed opportunities” due to too many choices. Remember, when you’re targeting your BCE, you can ad-

You should include a short professional biography on the menu (if it's in print) and on your website. Storytelling sells. Be sure to include career highlights and why you love what you do. You should also include a professional headshot. It’s important to remember that you are offering an intimate service where you are touching someone on their face or body, and people want to see who is touching them. Lifestyle photography, as opposed to studio photography, aims to capture people in real-world settings. It is an excellent choice for estheticians because it not only allows your clients to see your face but allows you to tell the story of your work. It’s important to remember the driving force behind a successful menu is not the pretty paper or the cool font. It is you, the esthetician and mastermind who is showcasing your expertise in targeted skin care services. You can take your menu to the next level by cutting the excess and making it easy to attract the right clients. By making this shift in your business, you open the doors to flourish in your business. It is possible to make an abundant living doing what you love when you have the right tools for helping you.

Lori Crete is a licensed esthetician and spa owner with 13 years of experience in the field of esthetics. She is the founder and president of The Spa 10, The Esthetician Mentor and The Esthetician Success Master Class Retreat. Lori is the author of The SixFigure Esthetician System and is also a business coach and mentor who has helped thousands of estheticians achieve success by providing support and teaching the skills, strategies and systems needed to build a lucrative practice.

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December2018

SPA

MENU Consistency 50

December2018

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How to visualize your spa’s identity through your service menu by Jaclyn Peresetsky

Designing a comprehensive spa menu is crucial to communicating your spa’s identity (who your spa is and what your spa is all about). Your spa menu is printed and/or digital piece reflecting your spa in its entirety and therefore your brand’s messaging must stay consistent. When you have multiple locations, if it is even more important that you follow one core menu and your services provided in each location are consistent, so clients feel comfortable going to any of the locations. When I began my spas, one of my first steps in creating the vision was creating the menu. Over time, I continue to refine it as we refine our spa’s vision, continually add on new services, and strive to stay up to date with technology. We choose to have our spa’s menus in different forms such as individual service cards, trifold menus in specific categories, a booklet to include all the spa has offer and an online version integrated in our website as well as a downloadable pdf Spa menus need to be a representation on what is your spa’s core purpose, why should they choose you, where you are, solid descriptions of your treatments and/or key products and contact information. Some spas choose to have themes to guide the client through an extensive menu and other spas prefer to keep the menu short, direct and simple. Either way, the menu you decide on needs to reflect your spa’s vision. Here are some basics that are important to consider when creating your own spa menu.

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December2018

Spa Menu Guide

1. STRUCTURE YOUR MENU Welcome Message Just like the wording says, welcome your clients with open arms to your content and services and begin to share with them how much your value the opportunity to be their skincare and beauty provider.

Philosophy Explain your motivation behind your spa and why you do what you do.

Vision/Mission This is when you lay out your spa’s purpose and how your spa will impact your client, your employees, the environment, or the world. It can be as vast or as simple as you want. Another way to think about it is it’s your statement of beliefs.

Rules of Conduct These can be phrased in very positive messages to encourage optimal spa etiquette versus phrasing the rules as what “not” to do. When writing your rules, consider using a different tone that uses positive wording to reflect anticipation of the client’s upcoming visit. Think of phrasing such as immerse yourself into wellness through a cleansing pre-shower, linger in the relaxation lounge, indulge in the moment of silence, time is the ultimate luxury, wash your cares away, connect with your service provider, plan to escape for an hour, boost your endurance with drinking water, and continue your spa journey with recommended homecare. You would be surprised on how many people never consider spa etiquette before visiting a spa and think their cell phone should go everywhere with them. Their attachment to their phone can quickly ruin another guest’s experience thereby losing revenue and positive reviews.

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Policy Information Important information to include in your spa’s menu are hours of operation, reservation requirements, minimum age requirements, cancellation policy, purchase policy, service charges and prices, late or no-show fees, arrival times, storage of client valuables, gift card policy, locations, appointment confirmation options, contact info for appointment questions or service feedback.

Scheduling processes There are going to be clients who prefer to speak to a live person, clients who want to communicate via email and clients who want online booking options. You want to consider having these options clear on your menu so there is never a hurdle to a potential client booking a service.

2. ORGANIZE YOUR OFFERINGS Service Categories Categorizing the type of services, you are offering makes it easier for clients to locate the services they are interested in. Lengthy menus can be overwhelming to clients and they don’t know

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where to start so considering guiding them to “favorite new client services”. Some service categories that are common to see on spa menus are the following: facial services, customizing service options to enrich or extend the facial, body services, customizing service options to enrich or extend the body service, wellness services, nail services, spa packages with different themes, salon services, fitness services, and/or specialized services. Once your menu is complete, have others read it to ensure everything makes sense and is easy to follow and understand.

3. MENU DESIGN Your services could be the same as the ones available down the street but if your wording is engaging and memorable, you can guarantee a client will give your spa a try. Spend time on thinking through the copy and wording of the menu so the feel and messaging are reflecting your brand. Sometimes, it is repeating certain phrases or words, or using a stylized way to describe your services.

Spa Menu Guide

Your printed menu, and the online version should use high-quality images that represent your brand and appeal to your target market. Decide what is most important to your clients. For example, if you are trying to attract a younger demographic, then consider more creative, stylish images or if you are targeting busy professionals, show images that reflect relaxation and stress relief. If you are targeting those that care about their skin wellness, then consider using lifestyle images of people doing activities with glowing complexion. Make sure your online menu has mobile optimization as potential clients could be looking late at night on their smartphone. They want easy access and easy to read content. They have no tolerance for a display that requires pinch and zoom just to read what services you offer. Once someone leaves your website without making a purchase or scheduling decision, there’s little chance of them returning.

4. DIGITAL MENU

meet client’s expectations and deliver a consistent experience.

5. TRAINING Offering an official menu training is very important to make sure all team members understand the spas menu. After initial training, allow a week for team members to have ample time to study it, then do a follow up training so team members can ask any questions they may have on policies and services. This training ensures your team answers client’s questions consistently especially in the new client onboarding process. No matter your team member’s position in the spa, everyone should have extensive knowledge of the menu to show consistency and a solid front to all spa guests, members, or inquiries. Those team members position that includes answering phones and booking appointments should have role playing opportunities when learning the menu and then follow up monthly or quarterly, so they continue to be experts in their position.

Overall, a spa menu is the backbone document of the spa so putting the proper time and attention into it in the beginning will have your spa off to have a great start. If you feel you need to revamp your spa menu, then get started! Client’s will be excited about the new look or new service offerings and it could increase your spa revenue and increase new client visits. Know that your spa menu is a living, breathing part of your business that will continually need attention. Keeping your menu innovative is keeping your spa innovative!

Jaclyn Peresetsky is not only the owner of Skin Perfect Spas in Ohio and Florida, but she is also a noted color expert, makeup artist, master esthetician, author and speaker. Her multiple books, cosmetic and skin care lines, and training courses allow other beauty pros to learn and add more services combining art and science to become leading beauty experts.

Online Presence It’s no longer optional to have website for your business or online presence. In fact, it is a MUST to have representation online as it is a 24/7 way to interact with your clients and allow access to your menu and additionally offer online booking. Your spa menu and your website need to have a continuous look, message, and feel. Everyone should easily be able to see what you do; and what you stand for. A potential client browsing your website, checking out your social media, and even walking through your doors, should find that it looks and feels the same. Your menu essentially sets the precedence for how your brand should be experienced. Consider your menu, emails, social media, sms messages, spa signage, and even the way you speak on the phone should be memorable and LNEonline.com

December2018

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Profit Focused Menu

Design

How to Increase Profit by Redefining your Spa Menu by Pam Stellema

Have you ever heard the saying, ‘You can’t sell a secret’? It’s worth remembering. After all, what point is there in having a beautifully appointed spa, with an amazing range of pampering and remedial treatments on offer, if no one knows anything about them? This is where a well-planned spa menu not only educates but also entices potential and existing clients to experience more of the treatments your spa has to offer. Your menu needs to be much more than simply a price list that contains every treatment you offer. Instead, it should be crafted with increasing sales in mind. There’s no question that a well-designed menu will help to generate additional revenue, but the amount of revenue it generates will be determined by the treatments you include, the description of each treatment, and the way the content is presented to the reader.

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December2018

Spa Menu Guide

Goes Out

MENU INCLUSIONS

What stays in and what goes out? Stays In Naturally, your menu should include your most popular and profitable services. These are the services you know your target market is interested in having and the ones you know will return a healthy profit also. If you’re a start-up business without any information on past sales, then it’s important to do your market research on this topic before creating your first menu. Don’t blindly assume that your clients are going to want the treatments you want to provide, as this isn’t always the case. Your spa will also benefit from including some essential spa policies on your menu. This will help to overcome many exasperating issues spa owners deal with such as late arrivals, no-shows, last minute cancellations, inappropriate cell phone usage and bringing along their children to their spa appointment. And of course, you need to include all your contact information (including website), opening hours and location so that readers can easily make their booking. 56

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To create a profit-generating menu, you need to begin by eliminating spacewasting treatments from your menu that are both unpopular and unprofitable. Don’t be tempted to include every single service your spa provides, as unless you have unlimited space, this isn’t practical and won’t help you to sell your top profit-makers. The same principle applies to your add-on treatment options. Include only those that will help to increase sales and profits. It’s pointless to use a valuable line of space on a $10 upgrade service when that space could have been used to promote a $100 facial or body treatment instead.

MENU SIZE

Is bigger really better? The ultimate goal of your spa menu should be to help increase not only sales but more importantly, profits. This is not necessarily achieved by listing every service on offer as mentioned earlier. By eliminating the less popular or unprofitable services from your menu, you will often be able to stay with a standard DL trifold brochure, which means you will eliminate the additional cost involved in producing more expensive booklet-style menus.

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However, if your spa offers a wide range of higher-priced and exclusive services that require more descriptive text and images required to convince readers to buy, then a more lavish booklet-style brochure may be in order. Choose the style of menu that best fits in with your spa branding. An expensive day spa needs a higher quality menu but a small regular spa may be well served by a trifold brochure. The important thing to remember is that you want to be able to freely hand out your menus to prospects and clients without worrying too much about the cost involved. If you are hesitant to hand out your menus because of the cost, then your menu is not able to do its job, which is to generate sales.

SERVICE DESCRIPTIONS

Should you focus on benefits or features? Too often, I read service descriptions that are loaded with industry jargon or are a step-by-step outline of service inclusions. You may think this sounds professional and informative, but what your readers really want to know more about are the benefits they will receive from each treatment. This means, that instead of using words only other industry professionals understand, you need to use words that your readers will understand. If you’re not sure if you are focussing too much on service features and not enough on benefits in your service descriptions, consider whether your text delivers solutions to reader’s problems. As an example, does it tell the reader that her skin will be deeply hydrated (benefit) or does it say you include Hyaluronic Acid (feature)? Does it talk about diamond tips (feature) or tell the reader that her skin will be softer, smoother and more evenly toned (benefit)? When space is short, it’s always preferable to focus on the benefits clients will get from their treatment, rather than the delivery method and ingredients used.

Spa Menu Guide

The layout of the services on your menu is also important to improve readability. You want to ensure that your readers see the most profit-generating and popular services first. With this in mind, consider your service category placement carefully. Your goal should be to make finding popular and profitable services an easy task for your readers. Don’t make them hunt for the services they want to know more about (and you want to sell). Keep these VIP services towards the beginning of your menu, and use the less obvious areas of the menu for the basics such as waxing and tinting (unless, of course, these are your specialist services). Also, consider how you can use service categories to help your readers find services more easily. As an example, you may want to consider breaking down your facials into various categories (depending on the style of spa you have). Some spas might break facials into Relaxation-style and Remedial. Others might use categories such as Facials, Skin Treatments and Peels. You might also want to break up your body treatments into Massage Therapy and Body Treatments to make it easier for your readers. Look for ways to segment your services so that readers can easily find what they may be interested in having, and avoid the temptation to lump as much as possible under a single category heading. Do your best to simplify your readers job of finding the service they want.

If you want clients and prospects to actually read your menu, you must make it as easy as possible for them to do so. You can do this by choosing easyto-read fonts for your text, increased line spacing so your text doesn’t look crammed in and, of course, making sure your font size is large enough to actually read with ease. By allowing some breathing room around your text, your service information will stand out more vividly. The goal when creating your menu is to inform and tantalize your readers. It should show them clearly what benefits to expect and create an emotional response to that information. And fi-

nally, it should convert your readers into buyers by getting them to take the desired action of booking an appointment with your spa.

Pam Stellema is the principal coach and founder of SalonSavy, where she provides specialized industry-based coaching to clients through telephone conversations. Stellema has previously owned and operated several highly successful salons, and specializes in maximizing salon productivity and profits. For more information, visit salonsavy.com.au.

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MENU LAYOUT

What goes where?

MENU READABILITY

If they can’t read it, they won’t buy it. I’m an avid collector of spa menus. One thing that frequently stands out to me is the fact that these menus are often next to impossible to read. This is generally due to the use of a quirky font, tight line spacing and extra small text size due to trying to cram too much information into too small a space. LNEonline.com

December2018

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SPA

Overhauls Rethink your spa menu and increase profits by Carrie Borzillo

If business is down or stagnant, or you just need an invigorating pickme-up for your spa, it might be time to take a good hard look at your menu. Sometimes all it takes to kick things up a notch is to remove what's not working, add exciting new options, and really figure out what your clients need... and want. Here's how four spas found increased revenue and client satisfaction just by changing their menus.

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December2018

Spa Menu Guide

alized our services are… it's more of an expert/patient relationship. In addition, our therapists and technicians are also happier, because they are using their knowledge and expertise more on a daily basis as opposed to following a boring, standardized SOP for each service," Mersberger adds.

ADD SOMETHING TRULY UNIQUE

TAKE A RISK Kohler Water Spas, with four locations in Wisconsin, Illinois, and Scotland, calls their 2018 menu revamp a "huge risk," but it was a risk worth taking. They did what some might think is the unthinkable by removing their top-selling massage and facial, Custom Massage and Classic Facial, along with other treatments, and replaced both with two uniquely, customizable services. "We really see spa services needing to get more and more customized and personalized for 2019. Think about it — when booking your spa services, many people are booking 21 to 28 days in advance. Your skin and body are constantly changing, so if you book a service 28 days in advance, your skin or body might need something completely different when the day of your service actually arrives," says director of wellness and Kohler Waters Spas Garrett Mersberger. And, of course, everyone has different skin, different concerns, and differ-

December2018

ent problems, so the standard facial or massage certainly cannot fit all. "Late last year, a growing trend predicted for 2018 and beyond was the increased desire for customization and personalization in spa treatments. We really gravitated toward this new trend and challenged our staff to find ways we could make our services more personal and customized to each individual," says Mersberger. For this reason, they added these two new services to their menu, Uniquely Yours Facial and Uniquely Yours Massage, and have simplified the overall menu quite substantially. "In a perfect world, these would be the only two services we offer for facials and massage… we'll see if that time comes," he adds. The risk is already paying off. "Sales are up at all four of our Kohler Waters Spa locations and so are our guest satisfaction scores – all higher in 2018 than in 2017. Guests are loving how person-

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San Francisco's SenSpa added a special section to their spa menu called Master Sessions to highlight the unique talents of their highly skilled service providers. "We added unique one-of-a-kind treatments that only one individual performs due to their unique courses of study. We did this to give a place for our clients to have access to the unique talents of some of our therapists, who have various passions for particular healing modalities. Some of which, don't get as much exposure as more traditional therapies," says spa director Jenean LaRoche. The offerings include Vortex Healing, Chakrassage, Corrective B a l a n c i n g w i t h M u s c l e E n e rg y Technique, Aromalomi, Rhythm Entrainment Massage for Problem Solving, and Binaural Brainwave Massage Journey, among others. Admit it — you don't see those treatments on many service menus. The change not only gave these specially-trained therapies a place to shine light on lesser known services, but it helped to super-serve the spa's existing client base who is always looking for something new and exciting. Additionally, the changes attracted new clients. "They're looking at these offerings and saying, 'Hey, I've never seen that before and it looks interesting. I think I will try this spa and that service.' It's surprising to me how many new clients we get for these services. I think clients also like the idea of getting a service from a 'master.' That there is some "guarantee" it will be a

Spa Menu Guide

high quality service. We also do charge a small premium for these services," adds LaRoche.

ries for our guest to be better directed to the treatment type they were looking for," Seibel adds.

CLEAR OUT THE CLUTTER

GO DIGITAL

The more the merrier, they say. Well, that's not always the case with a spa's treatment menu. Sometimes too much of a good thing, really is too much of a good thing. At least that's what The Spa at Two Bunch Palms in Desert Hot Springs, California found out. "Our menu was too large with too many options and it created some confusion with our guests. When reviewing the menu online with one of our spa agents, many times there was so much to choose that the guest would say they had to call back," says director of spa, retail, and programming Robert Seibel. That was the sign that the spa needed to rethink their service menu. So, the team sat down and discussed every item listed and thought, "Can it be added into an existing treatment? Is it so old that it needs to be removed? Look at history. Is it in the wrong place on the spa menu, perhaps?" adds Seibel. At the time, they had 12 different facials covering all skin concerns. "The guest was never sure what they actually needed and kept asking for a facial that was customizable. We got it done to three choices: TBP Custom, Men's Performance, and the Oxygeneo Facial. This allowed us just to book based on gender and then during the consultation we chose the correct facial to perform," he explains. The result? "The facials have booked a lot better with this new concept in place as the guest now can discuss their needs with the therapist as part of their treatment choice," he says. The spa made a similar change with the spa's body treatments, which they departmentalized into Detox, Energy, or Radiance Therapy. "We included all our body treatments into these catego-

Sometimes a menu revamp doesn't mean a treatment overhaul. Changing the physical presentation of the menu itself can also reap rewards. This May, the spa at Red Mountain Resort in St. George, Utah did just that. They reduced spa's printed menu to just the titles, duration, and prices of treatments with a select few expanded to highlight some of our different offerings. Their treatments remain fully descriptive on line, though. "Our goal was to create a keepsake for our guests that would inspire them both at the resort, and at home to lead a healthier more intentional life. An added bonus was that we could reduce waste and staff time, previously spent filling a folder with multiple menus," explains director of spa and wellness Marci Howard-May. At the same time, they wanted to make the paper piece more interactive and have room for images and space on the sides for guests take notes as a journal of their experience. "We added more experiential spa and wellness activities and are moving more and more

to digital, minimizing and streamlining paper prints. This allows us a lot more fluidity with making changes and reduces our paper waste," she adds. Within the past few years, they moved from a full 8.5" x 11" tri-fold menu to coming in January a single double sided 8" x 6" menu to hand out to day guests and all of our resort guests receive our 5" x 8" journal upon check-in. The changes resulted in an increase in sales for more of the spa's unique treatments with guests booking more treatments than the signature massage or facial. "The journal has also been very successful in helping us point out what services are unique to us and should not be missed while here with us," she adds.

Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.

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December2018

Detox

Purify

1 2

4 5

1. Eminence Organic Skin Care, Stone Crop Oxygenating Fizzofoliant & Lotus Detoxifying Overnight Treatment • eminenceorganics.com 2. G.M. Collin, Charcoal Mask • gmcollin.com 3. Farmhouse Fresh, Peat Perfection Enriched Peat Purification Mask • farmhousefreshgoods.com 4. Matis Paris, Purifying Gel • matis-paris.com 5. Osmosis Pur Medical Skincare, Environmental Detox • osmosisskincare.com 6. Bellabaci, Detox • bellabaci.com 7. Eraclea, Detox-Oxygenating Reaffirming Mask • eracleaskincare.com 62

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Clear out toxins and impurities with these potent purifiers 9 8

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8.Cinq Mondes, 3-Minute Phyto Peeling Gel Mask • cinqmondes.com 9. Nature Pure Labs, Detoxifying Mud Masque • naturepure.com 10. Glo Skin Beauty, Clear Skin Cleanser • gloskinbeauty.com 11. Nublume, Detox Underarm Detox Mask • nublume.myshopify.com 12. Lira Clinical, ICE Refining Masque • liraclinical.com 13. Travertine Spa, Rhassoul Clay Mask • travertinespa.com 14. CelleCle, DetoxyClean Cream-to-Froam Daily Cleanser • cellecleskincare.com 15. Make Scents, Detox Essential Oil Blend • makescentsspaline.com

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December2018

Clear out congestion inside and out!

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1. Dr. Alkaitis, Organic Universal Mask • alkaitis.com 2. Skin Authority, Deep Detox Ritual Mask • skinauthority.com 3. Bio-Therapeutic, Decongest Happy Face & Accelerate Clearing • bio-therapeutic.com 4. Saian, Detox Charcoal Clearing Mask • saian.net 5. Belle Cote Paris, Black Mud Nourishing Mask • bellecoteparis.com 6. To Go Spa, Bamboo Charcoal Eyes • togospa.com 7. Doctor Babor, Detox Lipo Cleanser • us.babor.com 64

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8. Vivid MD Skincare, Purifying Whipped Cleanser • vividmdskincare.com 9. Dermovia, Clarifying Mulberry Leaf Facial Mask • dermovia.com 10. Martinni Beauty, Organic Navajo Acne Mask • martinnibeauty.com 11. Credentials, White Charcoal O2 Detox Masque • credentialscosmeceutics.com 12. m'lis, Probiotic • mlis.com 13. Shea Terra, Shea Nilotik & Dead Sea Salt Mineral Bath • sheaterraorganics.com 14. Rose Mira Organics, Lymphatic Energizing Foot & Body Scrub • rosemira.com LNEonline.com

December2018

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GINGER GOODNESS 68

December2018

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why this fresh flavor is essential for inner and outer beauty by Aurora Solis

Ginger, a flavorful, intense spice prominent in Asian cuisine, is a flowering plant originating in China. A member of the Zingiberaceae family, it is closely related to turmeric, cardamon and galangal. Packed with nutrients and bioactive compounds that have powerful benefits for body and brain, ginger is among the healthiest spices on the planet. It contains 40 antioxidant compounds, in addition to potent anti-bacterial and antiinflammatory properties.

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December2018

organic & wellness Ginger Goodness

people get plenty of vitamin B12 benefits in a varied, balanced diet, if you are on a vegan or vegetarian diet, you are at risk for vitamin B12 deficiency. Gingerol is the main bioactive compound in ginger, with amazing antiinflammatory and antioxidant effects. These elements combine to deliver the following benefits:

SENSATIONAL SKIN Fights aging: Ginger’s high antioxidant content and anti-inflammatory properties prevent free radical damage and work to even skin tone and boost elasticity, all factors in preserving a youthful appearance.

With so much going for it, ginger boasts a strong reputation as a healer and has a long running history of applications for beauty and wellness purposes, making it a great ingredient to include in your skin care and body treatments! In Ayurvedic medicine, ginger is called “Vishabhesaj,” which translates to “universal medicine.” Because of its wide variety of applications and uses, ginger has a high value when it comes to holistic medicine. In fact, one of the most important signs of health and longevity in Ayurvedic medicine is good digestion. Ginger is commonly used to promote good digestion and ease congestion or a clogged or slow digestive system. The healing properties of ginger are derived from its strong nutritional composition. Ginger is rich in vital micro nutrients such as: • Potassium: one of the seven essential macrominerals. The human body requires at least 100 milligrams of potassium daily. Potassium helps regulate fluid

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balance and controls the electrical activity of the heart and other muscles. • Magnesium: plays a role in over 300 enzymatic reactions within the body, including the metabolism of food, fatty acids and proteins. Magnesium is also important for nerve health. • Copper: an essential trace mineral necessary for health. Found in all body tissues and plays a role in the production of red blood cells and maintaining nerve and immune system function. • Manganese: also an essential trace mineral, manganese is required for normal brain, nervous system and enzyme function. Manganese is stored in the kidneys, liver, pancreas and bones. • B vitamins: plays a significant role in nerve function, the formation of red blood cells, and the production of DNA. While most

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Rejuvenates: By stimulating circulation and removing toxins, ginger enables better delivery of nutrients to skin for a rejuvenating effect. Clears acne: A powerful antiseptic and cleansing agent, it helps keep skin clean and smooth. It kills acne-causing bacteria to minimize acne formation. Fights inflammatory conditions: Gingerol’s inflammation fighting effects make it a potentially beneficial tool for addressing various inflammatory-related skin conditions such as psoriasis, dermatitis and rosacea. Fades scars: The toning and antioxidant properties in ginger can reduce the appearance of hypopigmented scars, which are white or much lighter than one’s natural skin tone. Ginger can work directly on the damaged skin cells, comprising the hypopigmented scar and stimulating the melanocytes to produce adequate melanin. As a result, the natural color of the skin comes back and the white scars disappear gradually.

RESULTS

DELASH-

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MAK E THE

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organic & wellness Ginger Goodness

BODY THERAPY The topical superpowers of ginger even extend beyond beautiful skin. This wonder herb can be used externally to treat abdominal cramps, joint stiffness, skin burns and inflammations, making ginger-based products a valuable element to incorporate into body treatments. Consider the following possibilities: • Ginger compresses can be used to address everything from gout, headaches, menstrual cramps, muscular stiffness and aches, sinus congestion, spinal pain, stomach cramps and swollen glands. • Ginger essential oil can help alleviate arthritis symptoms, as well as joint and spinal problems. It improves circulation

and blood flow, making it the perfect ingredient for a treatment targeted to relieving tired, achy muscles. • Ginger’s reputation as a powerful aphrodisiac makes it a great ingredient to incorporate into couples’ therapies.

GUT GOODNESS In addition to the topical treasures of this spicy wonder, the purported ingestible benefits of ginger to the gut are abundant. Taken orally, ginger helps with both digestion and relief of pain or discomfort in the gut.

DIGESTION Ginger provides protection to the digestive system by increasing the pH of gastric acids and decreasing the level of acidity in the stomach. The increased pH of gastric acids reduces the amount and rate of gastric secretion and increases the activity of digestive enzymes, thus helping digestion and speeding the emptying of the stomach. This is also beneficial for indigestion and related stomach discomfort, described below:

PAIN AND DISCOMFORT AID • Infection relief: The anti-bacterial properties of ginger can help provide relief from bacterial infections of the stomach, such as gastritis and other infections caused by Helicobacter pylori, a common type of bacteria that causes infection in the stomach.

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• Ulcer prevention: Ginger has the ability to neutralize the secretion of gastric acids, which could possibly cause ulcers in the stomach.

• Irritation: The phenolic compounds in ginger are known to help relieve gastrointestinal irritation. • Nausea: Everything from motion sickness to chemotherapy side effects may be alleviated with ginger. • Menstrual relief: Ginger, ingested in the form of tea, is a known remedy for painful periods. Complete your gut related services by offering your clients a serving of ginger tea to provide benefits from the inside out. Recommend that clients with gut health struggles incorporate supplements, tea or fresh ginger into their regular diets to reap the digestive perks.

December2018

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GIFT BASKET GOODIES

FarmHouse Fresh® debuts an adorable gift set to keep lips kissably smooth, exfoliated and soft during the holidays and beyond. The Whoopie! Lip Gift Basket set features the freshly-harvested Whoopie! Lip Polish and Whoopie! Lip Balm made with Georgia cane and confectioners’ sugar. Both products are paraben- and sulfatefree and come with attractive boxes.

888.773.9626 farmhousefreshgoods.com

YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT!

You are what you eat and your skin is what you eat too! Ingestibles are all the rage when it comes to skin care. Osmosis Skincare’s Complete Digestive Enzyme supplement contains many different types of enzymes and is designed to mimic the natural functions of the pancreas, tackling digestion and allowing the body to better absorb and utilize nutrients, clearing skin and offering a natural radiance!

877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com

OH, HONEY!

H Honeycup’s Orange Sunflower Body Scrub is a luscious exfoliating body scrub with sugar to gently polish skin. Orange oil, sunflower oil, and mango butter nourish and soften. Pomegranate oil softens and smooths. Indulge to calm both body and mind naturally. Benefits include exfoliation, moisture and a smooth glow!

610.724.7946 hhoneycup.com

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

The Soothing Lotion from Iremia Skin Care features Manuka Honey, Beeswax, Calendula and Lavender Oil combined with the skin superfood Shea Butter and Coco Butter to create a healing lotion that nourishes and returns the skin to its natural state.

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SO SOOTHING

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December2018

Grow

Your Lash Business

with Tamara Lake-Mair, Owner of Ohh! Lashes

LASH SERVICE How long have you been in your current studio? Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been in this studio for three years. We just upsized from a smaller unit. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been in business for about nine years. Before I had a studio, I went from client to client at their homes. Do you use a different application style on everyone, or is there a basic method that you use for clients? I do a different style on everyone. There is a basic style, most people want a cat eye shape. A lot of my clients are older, so they want to stick to whatever looks more natural. If you have younger clients, they might want more of the va-va-voom.

December2018

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When doing a fill, how do you check on the integrity of the client’s natural lashes? I can see the growth of the natural lash. When you see one eyelash isolated, you can see the growth and tell that that’s a healthy natural lash. Eventually, that extension is going to fall off and I will attach another lash. How often do your clients come in for fills? My clients come about every two to three weeks. What advice do you have for other lash artists to schedule their clients for fills? To get clients in for fills, the best way is actually to get people on a standing appointment. That way, in two weeks when they’re scrambling for an appointment, at least they have something already in the books. That way, if we need to move it around we are able to do so. Do you think all clients are eligible for lash extensions? The only clients I would advise to use a lash serum for a couple weeks are new clients that come to us and we’ve taken off very heavy lashes. Whether the lashes are too heavy or the glue was too heavy, once we see what is remaining we can tell that they are very thin. If we try to do a correction from another artist and we can see that their natural lashes are very fine, then we’ll tell that particular client they might want to take some biotin or horsetail and come back in a couple of weeks.

BRANDING RETAIL Horsetail is one of the supplements you have in your retail area. Why that particular supplement? Horsetail helps the hair to grow. Biotin keeps the hair strong, but the horsetail is what makes it actually grow.

TRAINING How many artists work with you now? I have four other girls beside myself. We’re doing really well! How did you know you needed to add more artists to your team?

Why did you decide to create and use your own brand of lashes here at Ohh! Lashes? It was a little bit of both for branding and because there was something missing from the market. I wanted a certain thickness of lash and I wanted my clients to know that they were getting the brand from the place they were coming to. Do you have a training program for your lash brand? Yes, I do. The training program is part of another company of mine called Lash Nation. We market the training programs separately and it’s on our website. We also have an Instagram from the training. What other services do you offer?

It was really quite difficult but it was just out of need. I needed someone to help. I would have clients call but I wouldn’t have space and they would freak out and I didn’t want to turn them away. What were three main things you were looking for when hiring a new lash artist? As far as finding someone that would fit well with my technique, I trained them myself. I made sure I found someone who had their esthetics license or if it was someone I already knew, I advised them to go get their license. Then, I trained them on how I wanted the lashes to be done.

We also offer threading and makeup. I am a self-taught makeup artist, so it’s something I always had as an add on service. We do ask that clients let us know beforehand if they need makeup after their lashes so we can go ahead and extend the time. Do you ever recommend lash extensions for special events? Absolutely! If it’s for a wedding, they have all sorts of events going on and then the honeymoon, so having extensions is actually perfect for a bride. If she doesn’t want to continue it after, that’s totally fine, but for her actual wedding event I always recommend extensions.

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December2018

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WAX vs.

LASER How to differentiate between popular hair removal methods by Lila Castellanos

Five years ago, the cost of laser hair removal treatments made them prohibitive for the majority of clients looking for an alternative to waxing. Today, affordable laser hair removal packages can be found in nearly every Groupon offer as centers dedicated to laser treatments pop up in cities nationwide. While there’s no doubt the cost shift has cut into many estheticians’ pockets, more and more estheticians are becoming certified in laser hair removal in an effort to keep the profit in-house.

WAXING VS LASER Waxing often remains the better choice for clients with light colored hair, as lasers are attracted to pigment in the hair follicle. That’s not to say that the lasers won’t work on light hair, but clients should be prepared for slower results than those with dark hair. Clients with thick, coarse, and dark hair are ideal candidates for laser. Those with darker skin tones or who tan easily may also have a harder time getting results from laser hair removal.

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December2018

image image Wax vs. Laser

In the past, laser devices had trouble distinguishing between hair follicles and the skin surrounding them if the client’s complexion was dark. However, advances in technology mean that lasers can be manipulated according to skin tone so that skin remains healthy as it works to diminish and deplete the hair by targeting and killing the root. It’s important to note that sometimes hair can be particularly resistant to laser removal. Hormonal changes during the treatment period, which on average is typically between six to eight sessions, also impact the effectiveness. Laser treatments can be done anywhere there’s hair, but are most effective on the bikini, lip, chin, and underarm areas. Men often see significant results on their backs, chests, and abdomens after the first treatment with less pain than waxing. Laser treatments are recommended every six weeks. Estheticians regularly wax eyebrows, face, upper lip, legs, arms, underarms, abdomen, bikini line, full bikini, buttocks, chest, back, hands, feet, ears, and nose. Although the time between waxes varies depending on how quickly or coarsely hair grows back, most clients wax every four to six weeks or as frequently as every week. 78

December2018

LASER TYPES There are three common lasers being used in hair removal. The Diode laser is very effective for both light and dark skin. The Alexandrite laser is the fastest of all laser types and works best for treating larger body areas among clients who have light-to-olive complexions. And then there’s the most well-known, the Nd:YAG. This longpulse laser can be used safely on all skin types, including tanned skin. It is less effective for light or fine hair when compared to other types of lasers.

WAX TYPES Soft wax (also known as strip waxing) is applied warm in a thin layer on top of the skin with either a wooden stick or a roller. This is typically used on larger areas of the body, like the arms and legs. Then, a strip of Muslin cloth is put over it and pulled off, removing hair. Soft types of wax get to the tiny, fine hair strands that can’t be seen, leaving skin smooth. But this body wax should only be used once in a session on a particular area (never multiple times), as it will start pulling the skin cells, which can cause bleeding and damage. Hard body wax is typically used for smaller, more sensitive areas including

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the upper lip, underarms, and bikini area. This type of body wax is applied warm, directly onto the skin. It is given time to cool and then harden before being pulled off in the opposite direction of the hair growth. A benefit of hard types of wax is that they only bind to the hair, never the skin. The process tends to be less painful than soft body wax and can be applied multiple times, with no damage to the skin. Fruit body wax works just like hard body wax and is recommended for sensitive skin. It comes loaded with fruit extracts like berries and plum, which means these types of wax are antioxidant-rich and contain vitamins that nourish the skin. Plus, they’re a lot gentler on the skin than basic soft body wax, and hence, can also be costlier. On the upside, using fruit wax won’t leave any marks and it doubles as skin care. Sugar wax has been around for centuries and is typically made from sugar, lemon, and hot water. Sugar pulls the root of the hair out of the skin, much like soft and hard body waxes, however it’s made with natural ingredients, which is ideal for people with sensitive skin. Similar to hard body wax, sugar wax doesn’t stick to the skin, only the hair, so it can be applied and removed multiple times without causing any skin issues. It can also be used on any part of the body and is a more natural substitute to other types of wax. The hair should be at least a quarter of an inch long for the gel to stick to the hair for removal.

HOW CLIENTS SHOULD PREPARE If they choose to wax, tell them not to shave! Hair should be grown out to at minimum ¼ of an inch. Avoid scheduling the appointment if it’s the week before their period. Light exfoliation and moisturizing up to the day before treatment are fine. Avoid hot showers or steam, stay out of the sun, and take two Ibuprofen an hour before to help with swelling if prone to inflammation. If clients choose laser treatments, they should not wax, tweeze, or bleach

image image Wax vs. Laser

any hair one month before the session because the root needs to stay intact in order for the laser to effectively destroy the hair. Shave the area the night before or day of so that the laser can penetrate into the root of the hair.

While laser hair removal is considered safe, there is always a risk of burning, and the FDA warns that blistering, discoloration, redness, and scarring are also potential side effects. Annual touch-ups are recommended to keep hair growth at bay, and with treatments costing between $30-$300 per area, laser should be viewed as a long-term investment. For more than 15 years, esthetician Lila Castellanos has been delivering luxuri-

IMPORTANT TO NOTE

ous, personalized service along with up-to-date skin care treatment techniques

Both waxing and laser hair removal are incompatible with certain medicines, especially ones that are photosensitive. Stop those at least one week prior to treatment. Most clients are unaware that antibiotics can be photosensitive, so advise them to postpone a few weeks if they are taking them. Also avoid using skin care that contains retinoids and AHAs, as the ingredients make the treatment areas more vulnerable to irritation and UV exposure.

performed with professional equipment and specialized products. She thrives on being able to use her extensive knowledge to customize each treatment to help her clients achieve the results they are searching for. decollette_neck_WIN-2017.pdf

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8:36 PM

AFTERCARE

CMY

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To prevent clogged pores, it is best not to put any heavy lotions on the skin after waxing. Witch hazel, aloe vera gel, diluted pure lavender or blue chamomile essential oil may be used to soothe the skin. It is recommended to wait 24 hours before applying antiperspirant to underarms after waxing them. Don’t exercise for at least 24hrs. Advise your clients who do Brazilian waxes to bring a fresh pair of cotton undies to change into after to keep germs away. Pores are exposed and more prone to infection post wax. Exfoliate regularly between waxes and don’t shave. Avoid sun exposure to the area after the laser treatment. If that’s impossible, using sunscreen is highly recommended. Any hair growth between sessions should be shaved off. Don’t wax, tweeze, Nair, or bleach.

POINTS TO PONDER Some skin types are simply too sensitive to waxing. Make sure to do a thorough consultation prior to service as well as a patch test with the type of wax you will be using. Clients prone to ingrown hairs and moles might be better served with laser hair removal. LNEonline.com

December2018

KISSABLE LIP DUO

Reveal supple, hydrated lips with this luxurious duo from Eminence, designed to revitalize and renew. Citrus Enzyme Lip Exfoliator is packed full of antioxidant-rich ingredients that naturally slough off dead skin cells, leaving your lips smooth and plump. Next, infuse moisture with the petroleum-free Citrus Lip Balm, which features a blend of peptides and vitamin-rich ingredients.

888.747.6342 eminenceorganics.com

THE EYES SAY IT ALL

This advanced anti-aging eye contour cream from G.M. Collin is formulated to hydrate and soothe dry and delicate skin around the eyes. It visibly improves the appearance of dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles and fine lines.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

800.341.1531 Gmcollin.com

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December2018

HAVE A LASHY HOLIDAY!

RevitaLash Cosmetics launches its holiday promotions. These two ultimate beauty gift sets include everything needed for the important eye area to look even more beautiful. Each set includes a signature product – RevitaLash Advanced eyelash conditioner or RevitaBrow eyebrow conditioner – along with new products.

877.909.5274 Revitalash.com

A NAVY STATEMENT

For a gorgeous blue liner that stays put throughout the day, try Osmosis Colour’s Navy Eye Pencil. The smooth, water resistant formula features vitamin E and jojoba oil to nourish, hydrate and condition for a comfortable, eye-popping dimension.

877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com

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84................ Altair Instruments........................................................................altairinstruments.com......................................... 243 42................ Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.....................................beauinstitute.com............................................... 167 15................ Bioslimming................................................................................bioslimming.com................................................ 335 6,7............... Bio-Therapeutic..........................................................................bio-therapeutic.com........................................... 139 79................ Calvet Cosmetics LLC................................................................silcskin.com........................................................ 185 16................ Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc.........................................................dr-jeff.com.......................................................... 248 2,3............... Eminence Organic Skin Care......................................................eminenceorganics.com...................................... 157 72................ EarthZone Caviar........................................................................caviarcream.com................................................ 298 83................ Equipro USA...............................................................................equipro-bty.com................................................. 242 23................ G.M. Collin Skin Care..................................................................gmcollin.com...................................................... 115 57................ Gold Cosmetics..........................................................................goldcosmetics.com............................................ 350 71................ Grandelash MD...........................................................................grandelashmd.com............................................ 286 4,5............... The HydraFacial Company..........................................................hydrafacial.com.................................................. 201 33................ Industry Cosmetics.....................................................................gomyskin.com.................................................... 330 24,25........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia......................Philadelphia.skincareshows.com 66,67........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas................................Dallas.skincareshows.com 9.................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics............................ladyburd.com..................................................... 119 81................ Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research....................................lucrece.com........................................................ 263 11................ Meditime Usa..............................................................................meditimeusa.com............................................... 289 43................ Misencil.......................................................................................misencil.com...................................................... 287 21................ Nourishing Botanical...................................................................nourishingbiological.com................................... 288 17................ Shira Cosmetics..........................................................................shiraesthetics.com............................................. 249 41................ Skin Script Skin Care..................................................................skinscriptrx.com................................................. 289

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