LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals April 2019
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FROM THE
EDITOR
Bio-Therapeutic
TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED
SKIN CARE
Laser hair removal, IPL, photo facial. These are all buzzwords in our industry. I’m sure many of you have thought about becoming certified in these modalities and have even received some of these treatments from other providers. They are powerful and effective treatments that can be combined with more traditional methods and increase your bottom-line.
This
month’s
Lasers
Guide
is
your
ticket
to
understanding laser treatments and being inspired to educate yourself and take the next step in becoming a laser skin care provider. From understanding how laser hair removal works in depth, to evaluating the business benefits of adding laser to your menu and pre/post treatment care, our experts this month will guide you to success!
Also this month, I can’t wait to meet all of you at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philly on April 7th and 8th and in Dallas on April 28th and 29th. If you’re picking up this issue of LNE & Spa Magazine at the show, come find me and say hello! I’d love to hear what you think.
All the best,
bio-therapeutic.com
Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com 4
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April volume 34 number 4
contents 4 From the Editor 82 Advertiser Index
46
Cosmetic Lasers for Estheticians
16 A Gut Connection
52
Laser Hair Removal
56
Pre and Post Treatment Care
60
Post Treatment Photo Feature
spa
10 Under Eye Solutions
45 Lasers Guide
24
Spa of the Month
64
Energy in the Treatment Room
28
Marma Point Massage
70
Organic & Wellness News
32
Spa News
o&w
skin
21 Skin News
guide
10 Under Eye Solutions
36
How to Hire a Dream Team
42
#esty2esty
44
Tradeshow Talk
36 How to Hire a Dream Team
64 Energy in the Treatment Room 72
image
business
28 Marma Point Massage
Brows that Wow with Tory-Lynn Williams
74
Brow Artist Trends
80
Image News
74 Brow Artist Trends
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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A L L A C C E S S
PRINT + DIGITAL
3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Digital Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com
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Director of Marketing Stephanie Batier Rives De Lavays Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Ashley Sachs Aurora Solis Cristina Beecham Daisy Tepper
Daphne Lowe Louis Silberman Halley Hargonich Maxine Drake Kadir Marrero Tory Lynn Williams Kristen Groop
V I S I T
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Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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The eyes are the first thing that people look at and one of the first facial features that show signs of age and health. Clients are constantly asking us what they can do to diminish dark under eye circles. This has lead to some strong claims and a lot of misleading information about the causes and treatments of dark under eye circles, including some outrageous “DIYs.� It is important to understand there are many types of discoloration under the eyes with different triggers, and therefore different treatment philosophies are needed for each.
The Basics The actual tissue under and around the eye is very thin and delicate and has no oil glands of its own. It is a thin veil over the intersection of several systems; ocular nerves, lymphatic nodes, avenues of blood flow to the eyes and the fulcrum of the sinuses. With all of this activity in this one area, there are many systems at play and special attention needs to be given to any analysis and treatment of that area.
UNDER EYE SOLUTIONS Causes, prevention and treatments for dark circles by Daphne Lowe
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skin Under Eye Solution
To really figure out how to treat something, we need to first identify what it is and what is causing it. When it comes to darkness under the eyes, there are several different types and reasons why we have them. Until you can identify the cause or trigger, you can never effectively combat the issue. Here are some potential causes for discoloration under the eyes and dark circles:
1. Allergies 2. Genetics 3. Pigmentation 4. Lifestyle 5. Rubbing or touching the eyes 6. Aging and thinning skin
In all cases, an increase in water intake, a healthy diet, plenty of good sleep and a reduction of stress are imperative to effectively treating darkness under the eyes. Let’s discuss each of these in more detail:
Genetics Some people present dark under-eye circles that look like bruises. These range in color from a light pinkish discoloration to a dark purple bruise-like discoloration under the skin that tends to radiate out from the center, next to the nose and to the outside of the eye. In these cases, genetics plays a strong roll. In many cases, this discoloration is also accompanied by a fatty deposit that gets larger with age. This condition usually presents itself in young adults and gradually gets worst with age. In many cases, it is a simple issue of poor lymphatic and blood circulation. There are some preventative methods for this condition, but it is difficult to avoid entirely. There are massage methods to help with circulation, topical manipulations to help with activating the lymphatic system and topical ap-
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plications that can be used to improve the condition. Diet can also play a large role in keeping the body toxin free and therefore reducing the discoloration around the eye. Eventually, the client might consider a minor surgery to remove the fat deposits and alleviate the blood flow to and from the area. In many ways, it is like a treatment of a hematoma with the long term repetitive management. There are some topical formulations that have shown strong benefits in the alleviation of discoloration, such as Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone to improve vascular flow and Dipeptide-2 to improve lymphatic function. There is no way of reducing the actual fat deposit without surgery. Beware of any laser or ultrasound treatments that promote the treatment around the eye. Although they might be effective in other areas of the body, the eyes are too delicate and should never be put at risk.
Lifestyle Our lifestyle directly affects our skin. Issues such as physical or emotional stress, smoking, or chronic alcohol use
can take a toll on your overall appearance with a special emphasis on the skin around the eye. It is the most delicate and therefore the first to react. Lifestyle is a huge factor in everything that has to do with the body. As estheticians, we should always conduct a lifestyle assessment and talk to our client about how their choices affect their skin and impact their ability to effectively get the results that they are looking for. Remember, it is not our job to judge or tell them what to do. We are charged with educating our clients and gently guiding them to intentional decisions that balance their lifestyle choices with their skin care goals. The treatment here really does revolve around the actual lifestyle choices. A very thorough assessment needs to be done with a clear analysis; this subsequently needs to be maintained through additional treatments and home care recommendations. In most cases with stress and physical exhaustion, something topically soothing and nutrient-dense is a good hedge until the lifestyle changes can become visible.
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skin Under Eye Solution
Pigmentation In many cases, the darkness that presents itself is simply more melanin in the skin. This type of dark circle is more prevalent and of a particular concern for people of color. This is a common condition in darker skinned and olive toned clients. A word of caution here is that just because it is an issue on the main part of the face does not mean it can be treated in the same manner. Therapies and ingredients that work on the thicker surrounding skin will not have the same effect around the eyes because of the difference in skin tissue structure. If you attempt to treat the eyes in the same way you would treat the face, you could actually be triggering more damage. When it comes to treating pigmentation irregularities around the eyes, progressive is better than aggressive. Start gently and slowly. If the pigmen-
tation is triggered by hormones or medication, then gently protect the skin from any sun damage that could exacerbate the situation until the triggers are out of the system. Remember, it takes the body roughly 35-40 days to communicate between the skin and the brain. This is especially true for oil production, hormone production and toxin evacuation. If the discoloration stems from sun damage, then develop a series of gentle exfoliations, coupled with a very precise bleaching regimen. Sun protection is imperative.
Aging and Thinning Skin As clients age, hormone changes cause the skin to thin. This can make the reddish-blue blood vessels under the eyes more obvious. This thinning of the skin happens to both men and women, but accelerates more as women enter menopause.
When it comes to treating the eyes, progressive is better than aggressive. Collagen failure or collapse is what causes flaccid or loose skin. It is also associated with a bright blue discoloration under the eyes. Prevention is the best way to treat this condition. Although it is inevitable, you can try to postpone it for as long as possible by educating your client on lifestyle choices, topical applications, home care and sun protection.
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According to the American Autoimmune Related Diseases Association, 50 million Americans suffer from autoimmune disease. Along with that, over $500 million dollars are spent by the NIH on research, as compared to the over $6 billion spent on cancer research. While the AARDA currently recognizes around 80 different autoimmune diseases, Celiac disease is one of the most common. Defined as a reaction to gluten, Celiac disease is a chronic condition that can be life threatening. With autoimmune disease awareness growing, many Americans are opting to go gluten-free, regardless of gluten sensitivity. This trend has reached the skin care world, with brands proudly launching gluten-free products. What exactly is the effect of gluten on the body and the skin? Let’s find out‌
Effects of Gluten on the Body There are four different classes of proteins in wheat that can cause allergies: albumin, globulin, gliadin and gluten. Any of them can cause an allergic reaction. Celiac disease and gluten-sensitive enteropathy are terms that have been used to refer to a disease process affecting the small bowel. However, evidence has been accumulating in the literature demonstrating that gluten sensitivity can exist even in the absence of intestinal damage, but affecting many organs. Based on overwhelming evidence, antibodies to gluten
A
GUT
CONNECTION Should you avoid gluten in your skin care? by Aurora Solis LNEonline.com
April2019
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skin A Gut Connection have been demonstrated to react with the joints, the heart, thyroid, muscle, bone, and skin. So how does gluten wreak so much havoc? When the wheat protein (gluten) is digested, some of the gliadin becomes water-soluble, and is able to come in contact with human tissue. If the gluten was subject to processing, such as flour grinding, cooking, bleaching, fermentation, or hydrolysis (acid treatment), much more gliadin becomes water-soluble. Because gliadin stays fairly intact in the tissue, it is easy for it to get through tissue mucosa in one
piece. Once gliadin comes in contact with tissue mucosa, it easily crosses into the blood stream and can stick to many places throughout the body. This attachment happens whether or not a person's body can make anti-gliadin antibodies. If a person's body can make anti-gliadin antibodies, then the body will mistake healthy tissue for a virus. In this case, the immune system will kill the cells that have the gliadin attached as well as some neighboring cells. This causes inflammation in the areas where the gliadin was attached. Antibodies may also attach to glia-
din molecules flowing in the blood. The resulting antibody-gliadin “clumps� can collect in capillaries. This effect is recognized in the skin condition, Dermatitis herpetiformis and may be involved in many other conditions. In addition, malabsorbtion caused by the injured tissue is no longer able to absorb enough nutrients, produce enough digestive enzymes, cause ulcerations or microscopic perforation, and can weaken mucus defenses, which permits more direct exposure to other toxins as well as infections.
Effects of Gluten on the Skin The skin care industry is responding to the gluten-free trend. But is there any relationship between topical gluten and gluten-sensitivity or Celiac disease symptoms? Ingredients applied topically can be absorbed by the skin and into the bloodstream. However, the medical community is divided on whether this poses a legitimate risk to gluten-sensitive patients. Some more forward-thinking doctors agree that because Celiac disease is a systemic reaction, topical gluten should be avoided for optimal health. So what ingredients should be avoided? Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is an effective substitute for hydrolyzed animal protein derived by acid, enzyme or other method of hydrolyses. It offers conditioning, moisturizing and film forming properties and is widely used in skin care products to help skin retain its moisture and improve its overall appearance. As we discussed earlier, processed wheat protein means gliadin becomes more water-soluble, thus allowing for this molecule to stick to tissue causing damage and an unfavorable immune response. One of the conditions we see as a result of gluten intolerance is Dermatitis herpetiformis. Skin symptoms will be discrete papules, small blister, waxy lesions and smooth itchy lesions that
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skin A Gut Connection
resemble hives. If untreated, dermatitis herpetiformis on the face usually wax and wane, although symptoms persist with constant diet or application of gluten. Encouraging your clients to seek medical help is the first step to relieving this condition. Avoid trying to treat it topically unless you are working with a therapeutic grade skin care system. Reduce the risk of clients developing these allergies by avoiding products that contain the glutenderived ingredients. As practitioners, avoiding these ingredients is also imperative, as your exposure to these allergens is higher. Our ultimate goal should be to become more aware of the risk factors associated with gluten so we can all live healthy productive lives.
•
CHLORIDE WHEATGERMAMIDOPROPYL ETHYLDIMONIUM
•
ETHOSULFATE WHEAT AMINO ACIDS WHEAT BRAN
Below is a list of gluten-derived ingredients, which may be found in personal care products:
EXTRACT WHEAT GERMAMIDOPROPYLDIMONIUM
•
HYDROXYPROPYL WHEAT GERM EXTRACT WHEAT GERM GLYCERIDES WHEAT GERM OIL WHEAT PROTEIN WHEAT (TRITICUM VULGARE) BRAN EXTRACT
•
BARLEY DERIVED INGREDIENTS
•
AMINO PEPTIDE COMPLEX BARLEY EXTRACT BARLEY LIPIDS HORDEUM VULGARE (BARLEY EXTRACT HYDROLYZED MALT EXTRACT PHYTOSPHINGOSINE EXTRACT SAMINO PEPTIDE COMPLEX
WHEAT PROTEIN PG-PROPYL SILANETRIOL HYDROLYZED
•
RYE DERIVED INGREDIENTS
•
•
SECALE CEREALE (RYE) SEED FLOUR
•
OAT DERIVED INGREDIENTS
•
AVENA SATIVA (OAT) KERNEL PROTEIN HYDROLYZED OAT FLOUR OAT AMINO ACIDS OAT (AVENA SATIVA) EXTRACT OAT BETA GLUCANOAT EXTRACT OAT FLOURSODIUM LAUROYL SAVENA SATIVA (OAT) FLOUR
•
WHEAT DERIVED INGREDIENTS
•
AMP-ISOSTEAROYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN DISODIUM
•
WHEATGERMAMIDO PEG-2 SULFOSUCCINATE HYDROLYZED WHEAT
•
GLUTEN HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN HYDROLYZED
•
WHEAT PROTEIN/PVP CROSSPOLYMER HYDROLYZED WHEAT
•
STARCH HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM HYDROLYZED WHEAT
•
(WHEAT) FLOUR LIPIDS TRITICUM VULGARE
•
(WHEAT) GERM EXTRACT TRITICUM VULGARE
•
•
PROTEIN STEARYLDIMONIUMHYDR OXYPROPYL TRITICUMVULGARE
•
(WHEAT) GERM OIL VITAMIN E DERIVED FROM WHEAT GERM OIL WHEAT GERMAMIDOPROPALKONIUM
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MISC. CYCLODEXTRIN DEXTRIN D EXTRIN PALMITATE HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN MALTODEXTRIN (COULD BE DERIVED FROM BARLEY)
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The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Business Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
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THE POST OAK SPA AND SALON Houston, Texas
Texas’ First Forbes Five Star Spa
SPA OF THE MONTH
by Cristina Beecham
Within three months of opening, The Spa at The Post Oak Hotel received the prestigious Forbes Five Star rating. It is Texas’ only Forbes Five Star rated spa and one of only 31 in the nation to receive this coveted award. Located in Uptown Houston, the distinctive luxury Post Oak Hotel houses a decadent 20,000 square foot spa offering signature rituals, massages, body scrubs and facial treatments using the latest skin care technology and exclusive product lines. Inspired by the diverse heritage of Houston and the ceremonial rituals of ancient cultures, The Post Oak Spa offers healing treatments with a holistic approach in a unique sensory experience.
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spa Spa Of The Month
SIGNATURE TREATMENT The Post Oak Spa’s signature treatment is the Ritual of Five Worlds (120 minutes, $420). Spa Director Daisy Tepper describes the treatment as a “journey around the world beginning with a warmed steam poultice massage to open the chakras, while a medicinal Japanese fusion of lemongrass, bergamot and ginger releases muscular tension. A gentle stretching of the body takes place, improving blood flow and flexibility. This unforgettable experience culminates with a simultaneous, dual-therapist cranial acupressure and foot reflexology, as fragrant Moroccan eucalyptus and cinnamon comfort and awaken your senses.” The Ritual of Five Worlds is among four rituals on the spa's menu. The first is a grounding ritual using Kassa exfoliating mitts and dry body oil massage. The second is a beauty ritual for head-to-toe cell turnover with a Japanese-inspired lifting facial. Finally, there is a well-being ritual that includes a body scrub, purifying aromatic bath and soothing massage and leg treatment to ease muscle tension and complete the journey of wellbeing. The Post Oak Hotel believes in the importance of giving back, which is why they donate a portion of the profits from their Signature Treatment to charity. The spa’s signature facial treatment is the In-Skin Ultimate Radiant Complexion (120 minutes, $1,000). The six-in-one In-Skin device was previously only available to clients in Los Angeles until it was introduced at The Post Oak Spa. The In-Skin facial system offers next generation technology seamlessly integrating six high-performance functions to deliver a results-oriented facial experience. The Spa’s “In-Skin Ultimate Radiant Complexion” is a two-hour superior treatment featuring microdermabrasion, oxygen, LED lighting, radio frequency, electroporation, and air massage.
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MARKETING The team at The Post Oak Spa uses traditional forms of marketing, such as web, social media, spa articles and word of mouth. The hotel’s Instagram and Facebook pages have amassed over 10,000 followers, including over 14,000 social media check-ins, allowing guests to share their experience with their followers. The hotel frequently shares high quality photos of the spa to reflect its refined and distinctive elegance. The spa also utilizes its social media to announce special promotions, advertise gift cards, and showcase their extensive menu of services.
TRAINING To earn a Five Star rating from Forbes, the quality and consistency of service is essential. This is why each staff member at The Post Oak Spa undergoes eight weeks of intense training, including Forbes training, vendor training and one-on-one training. Spa Director
Daisy encourages a “competitive” atmosphere. She says, “We have competitions to see who has the most in retail sales. Our main goal is to keep the team motivated. We do this by initiating goal setting for the month for retail sales and number of treatments booked.”
SPECIAL EVENTS AND PROMOTIONS A seasonal approach to special events is a common and successful strategy that most spas use to freshen their menu and invite guests to experience the spa for the first time. The Post Oak Spa is no exception. Daisy says, “We are customizing additional rituals based on seasonality.” The spa has exciting new seasonal experiences coming this year!
RETAIL Spa Director Daisy Tepper looks for vendors and partners that inspire her.
spa Spa Of The Month
Spa Director: Daisy Tepper Facilities: seven treatment rooms; one couples room; one couples suite including steam shower and revitalizing tub; men and women’s lockers including heated stone lounge chairs, tranquility pool, sauna, ice fountain, experience showers and aromatherapy steam room Client Ratio: 90 percent female, 10 percent male; 70 percent local, 30 percent transient
Spa Director Spotlight
She says, “We attend retail shows and conferences” to look for “vendors that source more natural and handmade products.” Daisy also recognizes the importance of diversity of origin and supporting small businesses in developing countries, noting: “We strive to source products from men, women and children in developing countries. We aim to partner with vendors that give back to the community, such as Helping Hands and Cinq Monde, our main product line, that gives back to local schools.” Instead of emphasizing retail sales to clients, Daisy finds it is “more valuable and appreciated when we spend time with the guest to customize offerings based on their needs or wishes. We will educate the guest on our products in order for guests to better understand
the importance of the product before they purchase. If something was used during their treatment, we explain why we used it and the lasting effect it will have on their skin.”
Daisy Tepper oversees all spas under Landry’s Inc. and the day-to-day operations of The Post Oak Spa and Salon, as well as manages all wellness activities. She was previously the Director of Spa and Wellness at The Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills, Senior Director of Spa at the Four Seasons Spas of the Americas, Director of Spa at the Beverly Wilshire and the Four Seasons Beverly Hills Spa and Spa Director at the Peninsula in Beverly Hills. Originally from Australia, Daisy earned her degree in Business Management form Sydney Business College.
Rundown The Post Oak Spa and Salon 1600 West Loop South Houston, Texas 77027 Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of
www.thepostoakhotel.com 346.227.5000
Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source
Opened: December 2018
for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect
Owner: Tilman Fertitta
with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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Marma Point Massage Ayurveda for post treatment care by Halley Hargonich For centuries, wellness therapists have been using ancient philosophies to map the body, invoking energy points and pressure points to positively impact a person’s overall being. In Ayurveda, Marma points are energy points in the body where energy, or prana, can become stagnant. The marma points link to the subtle channels called nadis (similar to meridians in the Chinese system of medicine). Just as in the physical body the passage ways become blocked by toxins, so too the tiniest of mental stresses will cloud or obstruct these subtle points, reducing the flow of energy. Gentle pressure on the marmas releases the blocks and allows prana, or life energy, to flow to the connecting organs or tissues giving them a new lease on life. The marma technique is potentially the most restorative of the Ayurvedic treatments, as it harmonizes the body’s built-in energy network. Marma therapy is a gentle healing practice that is perfect to relax your client post-treatment, such as peel or laser, because it is a less stimulating form of facial massage. This easy to learn facial ritual releases subtle tensions underneath the skin. The marma points work on the deeper tissues of the face, corresponding with organs of the body. They awaken the processes that heal and renew tissues and restore the flow of subtle energy that brings a healthy glow to the complexion.
Marma Point Facial Massage Protocol Begin by applying five to ten drops of the face oil to the face. The amount should be sufficient as to allow the finger tips to move freely over the skin’s surface. Massaging under the chin, use your finger tips to stroke underneath the chin, alternating right, then left sides. Use gentle pressure as to not overstimulate the skin post-treatment.
Shankar Marma Stroke from the tip of the chin following the jaw line toward the hollow of the temple. Pause at the Shankar marma at the temples and take a breath or two. Use your finger tips to do five gentle circles about the size of a quarter. Let your fingers slide down over the cheeks and let one finger tip from each hand rest in the middle of the chin.
Hanu Marma Press and release three times at this mid chin point, the Hanu marma, keeping your fingers on the surface of the skin. Stroke out to just below the corners of the mouth and make five clockwise circles. Stroke up and out into the middle of the cheeks and feel for the front surface of the muscle that opens and closes the mouth. Press and release three times on the front surface of this muscle pressing towards the back of the teeth. Stroke up to the temples and repeat the five circles there as in step three. Repeat twice more.
Usta and Karna Marma Next, place the index fingers one on top of the other at the point in the middle of the upper lip. This is the Usta marma. Press and release three times. Stroke out to just above the corners of the mouth and make five gentle circles in the area where fine lines form. Continue by stroking out to the points in the middle of the cheeks, press and re-
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spa Marma Point Massage lease three times as before. This time, the stoke goes up over and behind the ears. Rub thoroughly behind the ears where the ears join the head. Find the Karna marma behind the ear lobe and make five gentle clockwise circles. Repeat twice more.
the Gandu marma. Gently massage in five clockwise circles. Take the stroke out over the cheekbones and again over the ears ending at the Karna marma where you do five clockwise circles. Repeat twice more.
Apanga Marma Nasa Marma Cover the left side of the head with your left hand. Place your right index finger in the hollow where the flare of the right nostril joins the face, the Nasa marma. Press and release three times then stroke under the cheekbone up and over the ear as in step five. Repeat twice more on the right side then switch hands and do three strokes on the left side.
Gandu Marma Working with both hands together, touch the tips of index fingers to the points either side of the nose and half way up,
Use tip of your thumb to gently press on the top edge of the bones that you find under the eye. Lift your thumb completely and move a fraction to the right, away from the inner corner of the eye, press gently again. Press and release in this manor working from the inner corner the outer corner of the eye three times. After the third time use your index finger to find the Apanga marma, the point in the outer corner of the eye just on the inner surface of the boney eye socket. Point in toward the middle of the head then press gently away from the eye with a press and release motion of your finger up and down. Press and release for a slow count to ten. Repeat for the left eye. Using two fingers of each hand, stroke from the tip of the nose up along the sides of the nose to either side of the bridge. Let the tips of your right index and middle fingers rest just below the inner end of the eyebrow. Take your left hand and let it rest over the left side of the head. With your right hand find the little bumps on the upper boney orbit of the eye that are closer to the bridge of the nose. Gently rub here then the press and release in tiny steps along the upper boney orbit of the eye to the outer corner of the eye. Press toward the top of the head releasing completely in between steps so as not to pull on the skin. Repeat for the left eye starting at the tip of the nose again.
Anja Marma Stroke from the tip of the nose as in step nine. This time the left hand moves to the top of the head and rest over the crown and the middle finger of the right hand moves to the center of the forehead, the Anja marma. Draw a clockwise spiral that starts small and gradually moves out to fill the forehead. Return to the middle of the forehead and make two more spirals. Take your time, as this is the last slower move of the sequence. Marma point massage is a great add-on to any peel or aggressive facial treatment. It allows the client to indulge in facial massage and Ayurveda therapy without over-stimulated post-treatment.
Halley Hargonich is an experienced spa leader in Miami Beach, Florida. Halley believes in leading through daily operations, building revenue, and improving effectiveness using wellness initiatives. Halley also provides as a consultant to build client relations between spa guests and spa employees, along with social networking through the Chamber of Commerce.
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INDUSTRY TALK
with Michael Pugliese, CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Estheticians are faced with a plethora of new products claiming to improve the skin with stem cell technology. Plant stem cells are unlike many adult animal stem cells in that they are totipotent, meaning they can give rise to any plant tissue. In further contrast to animal cells, any somatic plant cell can revert from its differentiated state to become a totipotent stem cell. Thus, in order to harvest stem cells, companies that produce stem cells will often wound a plant so that some of its cells around the wound will revert to stem cells. Once harvested, plant stem cell tissue is grown in a culture to produce large quantities, a process which proves to be both a renewable and eco-friendly resource. To prepare stem cell cultures for use in a product, the cultures are either dried down to a powder or extracted. In either case, the live stem cell itself is destroyed. Instead of drying, stem cells may also be extracted for their important components (much like making a juice or pressing olives
for their oil) and are also usually dried a little and then re-suspended in solvents such as glycerin. Any claim or implication that a product contains live stem cells is utterly false.
Stem cells are rich in potent antioxidants providing great advantages to human skin. Each species of stem cell will also produce its own special profile of secondary metabolites, meaning molecules that are not needed for the cell's growth and reproduction. The secondary metabolites are often of benefit to human skin, activating protective pathways in human cells or stimulating growth and division. Many secondary metabolites also act as antifungal or anti-bacterial compounds that provide further protection for the skin. The most well know stem cells are currently derived from the Swiss apple and edelweiss, with information readily available. Some of the lesser known stem cells with interesting secondary metabolite profiles are derived from Marrubium vulgare, gardenia and Centella asiatica. Marrubium vulgare is
not only rich in antioxidants and verbascoside, it also contains Forsythoside B, which among its other metabolites, activates protective and detoxification processes in human cells, thus preparing the skin for future attacks from environmental aggressors. Gardenia stem cells produce effective antioxidants, including feruloyl-6-glucoside. Finally, Centella asiatica extracts contain caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and other metabolites that provide firming and restructuring actions as well as antioxidant activity. Stem cells can be incorporated into serums, creams or lotions and are best added at cold stages to ensure the stability of all secondary metabolites. 
As with any exciting new ingredient category, myth and misinformation from marketers surrounds the use of stem cells in skin care. The goal is to utilize scientific validity in the selection and use of stem cells in functional, elegant skin care formulation, and to educate clients with realistic expectations in using stem cell products.
Michael Pugliese
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circadia.com 800.630.4710 LNEonline.com
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Behind The Spa Door
Kadir Marrero
with , Director of Spa at âme Spa & Wellness Collective concept How do you define the concept of your spa? âme is the next evolution in modern wellness. A destination spa experience providing simple access to cutting edge treatments and a world class collection of forward-thinking practitioners within the comfort of one of the “world’s best resorts.” What are the most popular treatments? Natura Bissé facials, and the Himalayan Hot Saltstone Massage are some of the most popular services. We are in the process of introducing our new Menu featuring Signature Experiences. The Thai Muscle Recovery and the Journey of the Senses are my favorites.
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leadership role What daily challenges do you encounter in your position? Every day is a different challenge, with a rise in negative stress as a direct result of an increase in technology in our lives, and how we are always “attached” to a device. How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? I use aromatherapy roll on oils, and I listen to motivational speakers rather than music during my early morning workouts. What takes most of your time every day? Educating staff, guests and other leaders – we can train therapists to a very high standard, but wellness requires different skill sets and commitments.
team building How do you select the people that are going to be working with you? Each employee is hand selected by myself and my hiring team. We look for people that are authentic, cultured and have a drive to create lasting memories for our guests. How do you evaluate employees? How often do you evaluate them? What makes an employee stand out from the rest? Each employee has a yearly evaluation. We meet one on one and discuss their achievements, how they have progressed within the year and what they look forward to achieving in the coming year. How do you train your staff? Training varies from position to position, but for the service providers it is a combination of standard operating proce-
dures, service protocols, product knowledge, benefits and contraindications for every service on the menu. Once they undergo the first step of training they must practice several times and pass a test with a lead therapist before they get to work on their first guest. This is the only way to create expertise and to deliver highly personalized experiences. How do you keep your employees happy/incentivized? I listen to them, they have the answers we are desperately looking for.
retail What are your retail goals? Our Spa retail strategy is directly linked to the treatments provided for our guests. Our Spa Therapists and staff are trained to understand the benefits of each product and encourage guests to use the same products at home. Products that do not perform well are discontinued and replaced. Each Therapist and Staff member is part of an incentive for products that they recommend to guests as well as from the providers of those products. Natura Bissé, recognized as Forbes Travel Guide as the Official Skincare Brand of 2019, is our main retail product, which is also used in several treatments.
marketing & publicity What can you tell us about your marketing techniques? What do you focus on, where do you spend the most time, and why? I focus on creating experiences, people are buying experiences rather than things, health, and longevity are becoming more important. Within our marketing channels we focus on two different consumers. Our paid advertising efforts are directed to
a local audience building awareness of our brand (outside of our resort) and showcasing the most compelling offers that position us with a unique advantage and set us aside from our competitors. For our in-house guests we concentrate on leveraging all communication channels (email, guest newsletters, digital boards…) to communicate monthly activations, fitness offerings, the latest treatments and incentives for experiencing everything we have to offer, from our Signature Wellness Circuit to our Salon.
exceptional client care How do you keep clients loyal and consistent? Consistency of service added value to the experience and adding new trends like our CBD Massage are key to keeping clients loyal and consistent.
TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS What are the most important lessons have you learned from failures or challenges that you can share with others in your career path? People think you can do things quickly, but you can’t, it takes time to build a successful Spa. What advice would you give to someone who would like to manage a spa? To be a Spa leader you need passion for the industry, the desire to help people feel better, and a lot of energy because the days can be long.
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HOW TO HIRE A DREAM
TEAM
Four Critical Steps to Grow Your Business by Maxine Drake You’re a successful solo esthetician with appointments booked months in advance. Not only are you turning away clients, but you’re also feeling exhausted from servicing your current clients. You barely have time to sit down, let alone care for yourself so you can look and feel your best. If you aren’t walking your talk, how can you expect your clients to develop trust in you? You know it’s time to take the next step and hire a team. But like many solopreneurs, expanding your business can be quite intimidating. Well, first of all, congratulations! When you’re growing a team, you’re more than just expanding your business. You’re now in the business of growing people and impacting more lives than just being in business for yourself. How should you go about building a team for your beauty business? How are you going to train your employees? Will you be a good boss and a competent leader?
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business How To Hire A Dream Team
ers look and feel beautiful, is confident in recommending homecare, and understands that there will be slow days. Most people focus on writing out the job title and job description, yet gloss over the details of what they truly stand for and what it’s like to be working for them. But I promise if you take the time to write out those details, the right people will be attracted to you and you’ll have a much easier time building your dream team.
Here are four critical steps you need to take when building a dream team: 1. Organize Your Training Materials First, get clear on your vision, mission, business culture, and core values so you can effectively communicate them to your team and set a solid foundation for your business. Then get organized and document all your processes. Before bringing anyone on board, you should put together an employee handbook for training your new hires. Write out operational procedures for each position, such as the front desk/guest services, hair stylist, esthetician, and massage therapist, etc. These procedures are step-by-step instructions on how you do things at your spa. They should reflect your unique approach and branding so everyone on your team is empowered to deliver a consistent client experience. In addition, clearly communicate HR policies and expectations, employee benefits, and legal policies in the employee handbook so new hires can feel confident and at ease because they know what to expect and how to behave. Design your employee handbook such that it communicates not only “how” things should be done, but also what your company stands for. It should embody your brand essence and get your team excited about being part of the company. 38
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2. Hire the Right Team Bring the right people into your business by hiring team members who believe in what you do and align with the mission and philosophy of your company, and aspire to become the most sought-after spa to work for in your community. Hiring an employee is similar to finding your ideal client – a client who believes in what you do will keep coming back for treatments and products, while an employee drawn to your philosophy will be excited to work for you and contribute to the success of your business. A team member who believes in your mission will go above and beyond to help your business succeed. This mentality is very different from someone who doesn’t care about what you stand for and is just working to get a paycheck. Hiring an outstanding team member starts with an ad. However, most people make the mistake of posting a laundry list of duties and responsibilities instead of focusing on whether a potential hire aligns with their mission and vision. Be honest with your expectations and about what it’s like to work for you when you post your ad. For example, if you’re hiring another esthetician, you may want to make clear that first and foremost this person loves to help oth-
3. Design Your Onboarding Process Many businesses fall short when it comes to onboarding new employees. It’s not enough just to hire the right people – you also need to make sure you have an effective onboarding process to train your team properly. Here are some key elements you should incorporate into the onboarding process for new team members:
• Show that you’re excited to have them onboard, such as taking them out for lunch on their first day or gifting them something relevant to their position.
• Include a checklist in the onboarding package, such as agenda for the first week (or even first month) to ensure that new hires get all the tools and information they need to do their jobs.
• Make proper introductions and ensure that your new team members have the chance to meet all their co-workers. Making them feel at home and being part of the team can improve communication and collaboration.
• Create accountability by clearly setting expectations, such as performance metrics, to ensure that new hires understand what’s expected of them and how they should perform. Implementing a system and taking the time to train your new hires will allow you to spend less time managing your
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business How To Hire A Dream Team
team in the long run. Take the time to design a system and revisit it periodically so you can tweak it as necessary.
4. Mentor Your Team and Provide Ongoing Training The onboarding process is just the start of your relationship with each team member. In fact, the training never ends! You need to train, coach, and mentor each team member for the continued success of your business and your employees’ professional development. Schedule regular meetings with your team and don’t forget to give kudos when they do well in their jobs. As a leader, you should also help your team realize their potential by stretching them whenever it’s appropriate and helping them when they need guidance. Remember, a fulfilled employee is a happy employee. When an employee feels appreciated, they’ll go above and beyond to do what it
takes to help you grow your business. In addition, you should provide ongoing training to your employees. Depending on the subject matter, the training can be conducted by your leading team members, vendors, or industry leaders. You should also support your team leader(s) to attend workshops and conferences so they can bring the information back and set up in-house training for the rest of the team.
Become the Leader Of Your Spa Business When you expand your beauty business, it’s not just about hiring a person or two to help out with the various tasks. You need to get clear on what your business stands for – your vision, mission, and unique selling proposition, as well as how you deliver your services and design the client experience so that you can attract the right candi-
dates and provide effective training for your new hires. Building a dream team requires you to step up and become a leader in your business. You’re no longer simply providing treatments to your clients. Instead, you’re turning your vision into reality and growing others who aspire to contribute to your mission and the beauty industry.
Maxine Drake’s mission is to elevate the esthetics industry through leadership and business and marketing education. She believes this training must come first to have a profitable practice, and created The Esthetician Business Academy. Today, Maxine helps beauty professionals improve their business and personal growth. The Esthetician Business Academy helps skin care leaders achieve optimum business growth with smart, effective marketing training that serves their higher purpose.
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esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! We are so excited to meet all of you this month at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa in Philly on April 7th and 8th and in Dallas on April 28th and 29th! We’ve had so much
• Just before our facial with Main Stage • Did you see our Insta-story
speaker Nerida Joy at Hotel Bel-Air! Come see her on the Main Stage!
on the new Carillon Miami Wellness Resort Spa Menu?
fun introducing you to some of the brands and speakers attending the show via our social media over the last few months and we can’t wait to introduce you in person! Stop by the Speaker Lounge near the Main Stage to enter our exciting Giveaway featuring this month’s Post-Treatment photo feature!
Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for
• Enter to win these products from this month’s photo feature!
• Check out @estheticianedit on Instagram to enter!
Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!
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Tradeshow Talk Get the most out of your tradeshow experience with these insider tips!
Hear what the ladies of Texas (A)estheticians Circle have to say! Plan the booths you want to see and visit those first! The classes are all fabulous! I like to get with a couple
Prepare for class times and set alarms on your phone. Be sure
of friends and divide and conquer. We each take a
to dress appropriately. If you’re ever looking for a job, you
different class and trade notes and discuss after!
never know when you’ll meet your future employer. I have
even hired someone from a tradeshow! Have your business
-Briana McKee, Dallas, TX
card ready. Not only is this about education, but it’s also a powerful way to network with others in our industry!
-Roxanne Esposito-Drese, Grapevine, TX
I have been to every show in Dallas since the beginning and continue to go for myself and to support other estheticians. Just going helps me. It reminds me of the amazing possibilities of esthetics. Bring a small wheeled bag or be prepared to carry and
I go with a plan for education, booths, and products. Planning is the key to a good experience. Trade shows are important!
-Debra Heinsohn, Dallas, TX
check heavy bags. Highlight or circle the classes you want to take, checking to see if they repeat the next day so you can maximize your time in another class that doesn’t repeat. Bring an envelope for your receipts so they don’t get lost at the bottom of your bag and take a full size notepad and pen!
Make sure you have a list of things you intend to purchase
-Kristen Jarvis, Southlake, TX
before the show. Once there, map out those vendors and make a beeline to those purchases! Once your list is checked off, the rest is icing on the cake. Since most classes are offered on both days, I typically attend classes on day two. In a nutshell,
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It took me 15 years to come to a tradeshow,
day one is for shopping and day two is for classes!
but better late than never!
-Cynthia Gomez Gonzales
April2019
Dallas, TX
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-Leslie Casillas, Frisco, TX
LASERS GUIDE
The latest in high tech trends and IPL
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COSMETIC LASERS FOR
ESTHETICIANS Why You Should Consider Adding Cosmetic Lasers to Your Practice by Louis Silberman
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In 2004, when Botox had been on the market only a couple of years and I myself was a pioneer in the medical esthetics training industry, traveling around the country speaking about the growing trend of cosmetic lasers, I always asked estheticians the same question: How many of you have considered adding cosmetic lasers to your practice? Back then, in a room averaging twenty people, no more than one person would typically raise her or his hand. That’s because most estheticians were more focused on facials, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, and micro facials.
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Lasers Guide
3. For the client who needs a more
aggressive treatment, you won’t lose him or her to the cosmetic laser technician down the street. You’re now a one-stop shop. 4. You can introduce higher ticket services that require less time (for example, in addition to a facial that costs $80 for one hour, you can offer a photo facial for $250 and it takes just 20 minutes). 5. You’ll often see immediate results on your clients (and they will thank you). 6. You can work on additional body parts with services such as body contouring (something you’re more limited with on a service such as microdermabrasion)
A Perfect Marriage
Fast forward to 2019: I still ask that question and so do my staff members who represent me, but today’s response is vastly different. Are you ready for this? Out of twenty estheticians, we now see twenty hands—in other words, 100 percent of estheticians are now at least considering adding in cosmetic lasers. Even those who haven’t yet completed esthetics school are already planning to continue their education in cosmetic lasers once they’ve graduated. So, how have cosmetic lasers gone from practically zero interest among estheticians to 100 percent?
What Has Changed So much has changed in the medical esthetics industry in fifteen relatively short years. Improved technology and a competitive marketplace have made laser hair removal, laser tattoo removal, anti-aging and intense pulsed light (IPL), and body contouring treatments much more effective, comfortable, and affordable. Facials and peels can offer amazing results, but technology truly is in a world of its own. And because consumer demand is at an all-time high, cosmetic laser employment opportunities are, too. 48
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The good news is, estheticians don’t have to choose between traditional facials and cosmetic lasers; they can easily do both. It really is the perfect marriage. It’s very likely to have a client who comes in for a facial and also has a skin condition (hyperpigmentation, aging, skin tags, unwanted tattoos, etc.) that needs a more aggressive treatment to achieve optimal results. Another scenario is the wax/laser hair removal combination: Consumers used to wax all unwanted hair but now, most choose to wax some parts and laser others for more permanent results. If you are also a certified laser technician, you can offer in-demand services like radiofrequency (RF) skin rejuvenation for improved texture, tone, and tightening; IPL for skin rejuvenation; and lasers that go deeper for skin resurfacing. Many laser treatments can be enhanced by facials, and vice versa.
Want more reasons to add-in cosmetic lasers? Keep reading: 1. You can help your clients achieve re-
sults that go beyond facials and peels. 2. You’ll have an entire arsenal of services that consumers want (which means you can dramatically improve your bottom line).
And My Favorite Reason for Adding-In Cosmetic Lasers:
7. Personal growth. Every successful business owner knows that the key to success in any industry is to never stop learning and growing. British actor Craig Charles said it best: “It’s evolve or die, really, you have to evolve…otherwise it just becomes stagnant.” Think of it this way: Amazon started out selling just books and grew into the world’s largest online retailer. What doesn’t Amazon sell? And what about surgeons who are always adding new procedures based on the latest medical findings? Or, hair colorists who consistently learn new techniques to keep up with what’s popular? And of course, Apple, which started out with the Mac desktop and has since added the iPhone, iPad, iPod, and the Apple Watch. The idea is to stay within the same industry but “go to where it’s at,” not investing too much in short-lived trends but at the same time, understanding and embracing the future.
But What If? These days, I rarely hear objections from estheticians regarding the idea of adding cosmetic lasers to their prac-
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Lasers Guide tices. But if I do, it’s typically one of two things—either they have questions about the safety of cosmetic lasers, or they’re concerned that lasers are just for the age forty-plus market, and they’ll be somewhat limited to that demographic. Let’s look at both of those. When estheticians ask me, “Aren’t cosmetic lasers potentially dangerous? What if I burn someone?” I commend SilcSkin_April_Ad.pdf
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them for asking. It’s a valid concern and the answer is yes, they can be very dangerous in the wrong hands. That’s why proper training is absolutely essential. You’ll hear people in the industry say, “You can just train on the job and you’ll figure it out—or, the laser company can give you a ten-minute tutorial.” To that, I say—at what cost? There is no room for error when operating a 6:07 PM
cosmetic laser. If you’re going to do it, do it right. Get proper training and I promise you, you’ll sleep better at night for doing so. As far as lasers being just for the age forty-plus market, I get that concern, too. While there’s money in it, zapping age spots all day long isn’t particularly fun or creative. But there are so many different types of treatments you can offer now to all age groups. From acne treatments to body contouring, tattoo removal, and laser hair removal, rest assured that your treatment room can be filled with all ages and genders. When it comes down to it, most of us in the esthetics industry got into it in the first place because we’re passionate about using our knowledge and skills to help others look and feel more beautiful. There’s a real reward in being able to do that. Whether you’re providing a skin-brightening facial to a new mom who desperately needs some TLC or helping a teenager dramatically improve her self-esteem with acne-busting IPL treatments—you’re still doing what you set out to do. Keep evolving. Stay passionate.
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K
Louis “The Laser Guy”
Silberman is CEO of National Laser Institute, a national cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center founded a decade ago, and owns medical spas in Scottsdale and Dallas. He’s the author of Make It Happen Online and a motivational marketing speaker. Silberman created the sixth most visited health/beauty website and was a semi-finalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014. Contact him at louis@nationallaserinstitute.com.
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LASER HAIR
REMOVAL 52
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Choosing the best laser modality for your client by Kristin Groop
Hair removal or reduction has become a very popular esthetic procedure as more and more people seek smooth, hairless bodies. As estheticians, laser technicians and electrologists, we perform these types of services on a daily basis for our clients. While technology provides very effective hair removal methods, many states have different regulations regarding who can perform these treatments, so check with your state for specific requirements.
LASERS/IPL For the sake of understanding, it makes sense to group lasers and Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) together because they are both light based treatments and work in virtually the same manner. They are considered by the FDA to be permanent hair reduction— not removal. • Types of lasers: Long-pulsed ruby (694 nm) Long-pulsed alexandrite (755 nm) Long-pulsed diode (800 to 810 nm) Long-pulsed Nd:YAG (1064 nm) IPL (400 to 1200 nm) • Hair color Lasers and IPL target dark hair and are not effective on blonde, grey, or red hair.
• Skin type Fair skin. Fitzpatrick skin types I, II and III. Lasers that produce wavelengths of 694 nm, 755 nm, 800 to 810 nm are suitable for lighter skin people as they absorb into melanin well. • Dark skin Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V and VI. The 1064 nm is better suited since its absorption into melanin isn’t as great. While some IPL devices may be used on all skin types, caution should be used on very dark clients, and the practitioner should consider using the 1064 nm laser instead. • Area of coverage Lasers and IPL devices can be used on all body parts, with the exception of inside the peri-orbital rim (eye socket area), under the eyebrows, and inside the nose and ears. • Settings Settings should be according to the manufacturers’ parameters, and it is essential to perform test spots prior to full treatment. With Fitzpatrick 4-6 skin types, doing test spots and evaluating them over 72 hours is appropriate. • How it works At the base of each hair follicle lies the bulb of the hair. The bulb contains the highest concentration of melanin. Because the light from IPL and lasers are attracted to melanin, the bulb is the target for these devices. When the light from the laser or IPL is placed on the skin where the hair is located, the light is absorbed into this bulb and heat is created. This heat destroys or damages the hair and the stem cells around the bulge, which prevents the now damaged hair follicle from producing a new one.
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• How it works All three methods utilize a sterile metal probe that is narrower in diameter than a hair follicle. The probe is inserted into the opening of the hair follicle until it reaches the base. Electric current is then delivered at the base of the follicle using one of the three recognized modalities of electrolysis.
CAUTION In addition to the melanin in the hair follicle, the laser light also “sees” the melanin (and pigments of similar colors like a dark tattoo) in the skin equally. In the event a dark skinned person undergoes laser/IPL hair reduction, some amount of the energy could be absorbed into the skin, possibly causing a burn. Burns can be prevented by taking the person’s skin color into account. By modifying the settings and reducing the energy, darker skinned patients can still be safely treated with IPL and laser.
Treatments are performed between four to eight weeks apart. Most clients require four to seven treatments and annual maintenance treatment is needed.
• Side effects There are common side effects associated with laser/IPL hair reduction such as peri-follicular edema (PFE), which is swelling around the hair follicles caused by heat absorption. This usually resolves in 48 hours. Hyperpigmentation can also occur in darker skin types. Adverse reactions such as burns or blisters can be minimized by ensuring the client has not had any recent sun exposure two weeks) and isn’t wearing makeup or sunless tanner.
• Safety Practitioners and clients must wear the appropriate eyewear specific to the wavelength of the laser when it is the device of choice, to avoid eye damage.
• Contraindications Epilepsy, lupus, pregnancy, recent antibiotic use or any other health issues that may be eggravated by light exposure. Clients should not have any heat or sun exposure for a minimum of 48 hours after treatment. • Treatment time, frequency and price Laser/IPL treatment prices range from $50 a treatment for a small area (upper lip) to $300 for a large area (full back). Many spas offer package deals. 54
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IPL RADIOFREQUENCY The combination of radiofrequency (RF) and IPL allows for the use of less optical energy because of the addition of RF, which permits for safer treatment of a greater range of skin types. Treatment time, frequency and price are comparable to laser/IPL.
ELECTROLYSIS Electrolysis is the only permanent hair removal technique approved by the FDA. It has been practiced since 1875 and there are three types being used by practitioners today—galvanic electrolysis, thermolysis, and the blend. Galvanic electrolysis uses a direct current to destroy the hair through chemical action. Galvanic current will convert the water and salt present in the dermal papilla into a high pH solution, which is capable of destroying the dermal papilla. Thermolysis uses RF to generate heat into the hair root, which destroys it via electrocoagulation. The blend combines the galvanic and thermolysis currents together in the same probe destroying the dermal papilla by both heat and chemical action. By blending both modalities, treatment efficacy is improved.
• Side effects The most common side effect is redness, which is short lived. Recommend that your clients apply a compress of witch hazel after the treatment. Scabs, although rare, may also form in the follicle opening. Advise clients not to pick or scratch them.
Treatment time, frequency and price Pricing tends to be calculated in 15-minute increments, not by body part, and runs from $65130 an hour. Most practitioners offer packages as it takes 7 to 12 hours to treat an area, depending on size. Treatments are usually performed weekly. Depending on the client’s hair, genetics, hormones, and health, the electrologist will determine the amount of treatment needed. While the old standbys of waxing and shaving still work, technology allows us to deliver great results to our clients. Going from hair to bare is easier than we ever thought!
Kristin Groop is the creator and CEO of the Esthetic Advisor Laser Academy® (EALA). Groop is a licensed esthetician, esthetic instructor, certified laser technician and instructor. Her EstheCeuticals® line of skin care products is designed for microneedling and laser treatments. Groop also invented the SkinStylus® Microneedling System. Contact Groop at 480.656.4481 or estheticadvisor@gmail.com.
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PRE ANDPOST
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Guidelines for Laser Skin Care Treatments by Aurora Solis Laser skin care treatments are powerful tools that yield outstanding results over time. However, great care must be taken before and after treatment to not only protect the client from potential side effects, including burns and scabbing, but also to maximize the efficacy of the treatment. Pre and post treatment care must be explained to the client prior to the start of treatment, as oftentimes laser treatments require the client to exercise certain precautions several days prior to and post treatment. Here are the necessary pre and post care for laser skin care treatments:
Setting Expectations Often overlooked, setting realistic expectations should be considered part of your pre treatment regimen. Laser technology is extremely effective, but with its increasing popularity comes misinformation and false hopes of a miracle treatment. Make sure your client understands the time commitment, financial commitment and pre and post treatment commitments that may affect their lifestyle for the duration of the treatment and several weeks afterwards. Create a detailed informational sheet and go over it thoroughly with your client. Include the pre treatment care that must be taken which will be discussed below. Also
advise your clients on what to wear to their treatment so they can feel as prepared and relaxed as possible. Remember, it is your responsibility to ensure your client has taken the proper care, and to delay treatment if the client has not followed instructions to avoid a negative outcome.
Pre-Treatment Care For laser hair removal, the area to be treated must be clean-shaven. Clients should avoid UV exposure for seven days prior to treatment to avoid compromising the skin and developing a tan, which can make some forms of hair removal ineffective. Clients who are sunburned or tanned should delay treatment for at least two weeks. You can also recommend that your clients gently exfoliate the area to remove any dead skin and residual tan. Clients should avoid using active skin care treatments for two weeks prior to their appointment. Chemical peels, AHA and BHA treatments, retinols, hydroquinone and other prescription topicals should be paused for two weeks to avoid excessive skin thinning, escalating the risk for irritation. Clients who have taken Accutane or similar generic prescriptions should wait at least six months before treatment. Those who regularly wax the area to be treated should stop waxing or tweezing for at least three weeks before treatment. Also advise your client to avoid rigorous physical
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Lasers Guide activity two hours before they receive their treatment. Antibiotics can also increase photosensitivity. Make sure your client checks with their physician if they are taking long-term antibiotics. As the treatment provider, you may opt to use a topical numbing cream prior to treatment. Check with your laser manufacture for the best recommendation.
Post-Treatment Care After the treatment is completed, clients must again avoid sun exposure for at least one week. If blisters occur, instruct the client not to open or puncture the blister, but rather to apply an antibiotic ointment until the irritation subsides. Carry an aloe-based or calming post-treatment balm for clients to purchase after their treatment. Not only will this increase the overall revenue of
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the treatment, but it will also make the clients feel cared for and confident in their post-treatment routine. Clients should not receive any other laser treatments or chemical exfoliations to the treated area for at least two weeks post treatment until the treated area is fully healed. It is imperative that clients use a broad spectrum UVA/UVB sun protection of at least SPF 30. Be sure to carry this product in office to hold your client accountable in protecting their skin from the sun’s harmful rays after their laser treatment. Remind your client that the outcome is only as good as their dedication to adhering to the pre and post treatment guidelines you agreed upon prior to beginning their series of treatments. Encourage your client to contact you should they experience any side effects, such as hypo or hyper pigmentation, excessive swelling or redness, allergic reaction, or blistering.
Once the area is healed, the client can gently resume regular exfoliation to prevent ingrown hairs.
Scheduling Scheduling your client for their next treatment in the series is part of post treatment care. For best results, your client should schedule the recommended number of treatments at once to ensure they return to finish their course. Again, this is something that should be outlined in your pre-treatment discussion, as some clients will need several treatments to see the best results depending on the area treated, hair thickness and skin pigmentation. Pre and post treatment care is just as important as adhering to proper protocol during the procedure. While it is the client’s responsibility to follow your recommendations at home, it is ultimately your responsibility to act wisely and think proactively when performing laser skin care treatments.
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Promote healing after exfoliation, wax or laser
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7. Bliss Amethyst Spray • Nectar Essences • nectaressences.com 8. Cellular Renewal Serum & Healing Accelerator Serum• Procell Therapies • procelltherapies.com 9. BIO Recovery Balm • Lira Clinical • liraclinical.com 10. No Trauma Momma! • Relax & Wax • relaxnwax.com 11. Finipil Antiseptic Cream • Nufree • nufree-professionals.com 12. Anti-Pollution Serum • The Better Skin Co. • thebetterskinco.com 13. Facial Souffle Overnight Mask • Elemental Herbology • elementalherbology.com LNEonline.com
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ENERGY IN THE
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Why Energy Is So Important At Every Step Of Your Services by Ashley Sachs
Imagine two scenarios: An esthetician oversleeps in the morning. She had a terrible night’s sleep while stressing about work, bills, family, etc. She leaps out of bed, haphazardly throws on her clothes, puts her hair up, has no time for makeup, stuffs a bagel in her mouth and runs out the door. When she arrives at work, she pushes through the door and without taking a minute to breathe, throws her things down, tells her client to come into the room and shuts the door. She then begins her facial, transferring her rushed and unfocused energy directly to her client. LNEonline.com
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organic & wellness Energy In The Treatment Room
Another esthetician wakes up early, hours before her first appointment. She is well rested and excited to start her morning practice. She does yoga, meditation and sets her intention for the day. Sipping on her morning tea she makes herself a healthy breakfast, taking her time while enjoying every sip. She then showers, picks out an outfit that represents her mood that day, styles her hair and lovingly applies her makeup in a way that inspires herself and her clients. She heads out the door feeling refreshed and optimistic. When she gets to work, she puts her things away and prepares the room for her first client. She lights a candle, channels Reiki and lights a palo santo stick, wafting the smoke around the room and over the bed in which her clients will lay. Her client arrives and she welcomes them into her room. She is calm, present and happy and as she is performing her facial she is transferring her calm and peaceful energy directly to her client. Obviously these are two extreme circumstances, but this is to illustrate the powerful impact of our energy that our clients can receive during a treatment. Can you feel the negative energy from the first scenario? Conversely, did you feel calm and even inspired by the second esthetician’s morning routine? This is basic energy work.
Ever Present Energy The words “Energy Work” may be trending right now, but it is certainly not a new concept and estheticians are performing energy work (be it positive or negative) on their clients, aware of it or not. By intentionally incorporating energy work into every step of your services, you have the ability to impact your client on a far deeper scale. Let’s take a deeper dive into energy work. The purpose of energy healing is to provide a foundation for tangible fulfillment on all levels of life. Dorothy Rowe, a Wellness Educator and Intuitive 66
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Consultant illustrates a beautiful example of how energy healing relates to esthetics: “Imagine the process of creating a great work of art. The forces of nature spend eons creating a deposit of marble. The marble itself is the handy work of the Divine. It is complete, needing nothing but existence to be an expression of Divine beauty. However, it can’t enter the museum as a finished piece without undergoing a relationship with the artist. It is only after the perfectly formed, natural marble has been touched by the creativity and technique of the artist, that it is elevated to a status universally recognized as art. We can think of ourselves as works of Universal art. Originating in the Source of Creation we are made of Divine Being. However, without the presence of personality, ego, and individuality, the story of life remains abstract and its full potential is unrealized.”
Energy In The Treatment Room The importance of incorporating intentional energy healing into our services is more important now more than ever. There is a societal obsession to conform to a specific beauty standard.
Unattended to, this burden can turn into a lifelong struggle with insecurity and a never-good-enough mentality when it comes to physical perfection. This can further develop into depression and body dysmorphia, which are sadly becoming more of an epidemic in today’s modern world. Fortunately, the emergence of a lighter, brighter energy movement that encourages self-love, mindfulness and wellness has become more accepted in our culture. Energy healing is no longer taboo and more people are giving it a try and by utilizing energy healing with esthetics we have the power to truly illuminate the external self from within; like turning on a lamp under a sheet. On the surface, your clients are paying you to make them physically beautiful. Ultimately however, they are seeking your expertise and guidance to make them feel beautiful which manifests into confidence, worthiness and power. Think about how you feel when you look at a sunset, a landscape, a flower and even a beautiful person. These things are beautiful because they invoke a feeling of awe, peace and inspiration. When a client first fully accepts and loves themselves as a divine work of art (through energy healing),
organic & wellness Energy In The Treatment Room
we can use esthetics as an expressive tool to turn marble into a statue.
A Daily Practice When you practice energy work in your personal life (yoga, meditation, reiki, crystal healing, and smudging are the most common) you are “shielding” yourself from negative energy so you can perform at your highest level. It’s like playing a sport; you must practice ahead of time for the game so you are mentally and physically prepared. Practicing energy work can be as simple as taking one minute before each client to breathe and repeat a mantra such as “I am in control of my energy.” By sharing your practice and incorporating energy healing into your services, you will deepen your connection to your clients, increasing your value and their loyalty. You are providing them two services at once, an invaluable offering. In addition to having a morning practice like the second scenario described above; I continue energy work
throughout my day in order to stay fully present and focused on uplifting my clients (and others I come into contact with). When I’m preparing for a client, I set intentions for the products that I will be using for my service. I perform Reiki in the room and intend on creating a loving, positive experience for both my clients and myself. When I’m mixing ingredients for my client’s custom blended makeup, I am setting an intention for the makeup. This positive energy goes far beyond my treatment room. When I am with a client I continue to bring in Reiki (always with the client’s consent) throughout the service and add in other energy healing methods depending on the service and my client’s needs and goals.
perspective of themselves, they will radiate a light so bright that they will be able to reach their highest potential and beam outward causing other potential clients to ask “What are you doing?!” Exchanging energy is already happening each time we provide a service. When one esthetician starts practicing light energy work, it creates a small wave and as the wave continues to ripple out, it has the power to build into an ocean of beautiful works of art.
Ashley Sachs is a Beauty Healer, Writer, Licensed Esthetician and Certified in Reiki Level 2 located in Chester County, PA . In order to balance beauty’s magic and curse,
A Positive Impact
Ashley combines energy healing in her cus-
With your knowledge, skills and inherent gifts as estheticians, you can make a client more beautiful. However, when you bring light energy work into your practice, healing and elevating one’s
tom blended makeup, eyelash extension and microcurrent services. For more information visit www.simplelovelyblended.com or email Ashley at blendedbyashley@gmail.com
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BROWS THAT
WOW
with TORY-LYNN WILLIAMS, Kelley Baker Brows CONCEPT
How would you describe the atmosphere at Kelley Baker Brows? We are a thriving salon revolving around the latest trends in beauty and fashion.
@torylynnbrows
What is your most popular service? Our most popular services are BROWS! With our latest expansion this last year, our team of hairstylists is also one of the best in LA.
FACILITY How many treatment rooms does the studio have? KBB is located in Venice Beach,CA just blocks from well-known Abbott Kinney and the Venice Boardwalk. We have four rooms in our beach beauty bungalow, which include two brow rooms with four stylists total, one lash/ body waxing room and our large, freshly renovated hair salon, which has four beautiful stylist stations. 72
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What other areas are available to guests? Aside from our beauty rooms, our salon boasts two adorable outdoor seating patios, one at the entry of the salon and another tucked around back. Our waiting area has large adorable seating facing a beautiful white washed brick fireplace. How are brow artists hired and trained? All brow stylists are hand picked by Kelley Baker, then taught her specific waxing and shaping techniques.
DAY TO DAY How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? I manage my work life stresses with being active outside of the salon. Spending time with friends, exercising or simply sitting on the beach with some coffee really puts me at ease. What takes most of your time every day? Brows of course! Connecting with the other girls on new ways to market our-
selves and attract new business to the salon. Such as social media content, fun specials and reward programs, collaborating with each other since we all have something different to offer!
RETAIL What are your retail goals? My personal retail goals are always to do more than the month prior. Where is the retail area located? All of our product, whether it is brow products, candles, hats, neck pillows or hair care prodcts, is beautifully displayed on gold shelves at the entrance of the salon.
MARKETING How do you market yourself as a brow artist? My marketing techniques are basically just Instagram, besides happy clients. I have found that Instagram has the most reach for spreading your work to numerous different demographics.
CLIENT CARE How do you keep clients loyal and consistent? I believe offering exceptional service to clients keeps them loyal. Giving them an experience they wont receive other places. Being friendly, doing a great consistent service and never having a client feel dissatisfied. I recommend my clients to come every three to four weeks and our amazing front desk staff always suggests client to pre-book their appointments. What incentives do you offer to your clients to be sure they come back again? Our clients receive a “Loyalty Card.” They receive stamps for every appointment. After seven brow appointments, we give our clients a complimentary brow service as a thank you for their dedication and loyalty.
INSIDER TIPS What are the most important lessons you have learned from failures or challenges that you can share with others in your career path? The most important lesson I have learned is to be patient and never compare your path to others. To always give110 percent in every aspect of your work. Mistakes happen sometimes, but always handle them with grace and learn how to correct for the future. What advice would you give someone who would like to specialize in brows? Expect to be working a lot, learn patience and understanding when surrounded with so many personalities. It’s a very fun and ever-changing industry! If you love what you do, you’ll never work a day in your life.
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BROW
ARTIST Trends
Five Eyebrow Trends to Try This Month by Cristina Beecham
Waxing, tweezing, threading and shaving the brows are no longer just afterthoughts on a spa menu. They have become an artistic force to be reckoned with; a stand-alone source of income for Brow Artists around the world. Isn’t that the beauty of the beauty industry?! You can turn your passion for something as common as eyebrows into a six-figure salary! But, the world of the brow artist isn’t as mundane as brush, wax, tweeze, repeat. Every season, new methods and trends infiltrate the brow community, often taking Instagram by storm. Staying on top of these trends is vital to the success of any brow artist. Here are five brow trends to practice this month:
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image Brow Artist Trends
1. Faux Microblading Microblading has taken the permanent makeup world by storm. Most brow artists have “microblading certification” at the top of their goals list for 2019. Clients’ Instagram feeds are filled with impressive before and afters, and the look of crisp, clean hair strokes has become a craze. In fact, the “look” of microblading has become a trend just as much as the actual treatment is! Clients today are looking for those crisp, individual hair strokes without the blades and permanent nature of the service. How can this be accomplished? Many makeup brands are answering this question with double tipped brow pens and pencil, creating two individual hair strokes with one swipe and mimicking the look of microbladed brows. This can also be accomplished with pigmented brow pomades and a fine angled brush. The goal is to create the look of microblading without the invasive procedure, and the hefty cost! Although not permanent, clients can give the impression they spend hundreds on permanent brows. This treatment is great for those clients with sparse hairs and little natural shape to their brows. Use a similar marking technique to map out a shape, and draw hair-like stroked throughout the brow in crisscrossing and alternating directions just like you would with microblading.
2. Soap Brows If you haven’t seen this trend on Instagram or YouTube, the name itself might shock you. But, this trend is really simple and quite effective! For clients with thick, unruly hairs or limp and thin hairs that crave the look of stick straight, stand up brow hairs, a dry bar of clear soap is just the thing you need! Stick straight brows have been grazing editorial covers for the last year, and clients are now asking specifically for this look. But, sometimes brow
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gel just simply isn’t strong enough to keep brows standing upwards without sagging to the side and laying in their natural resting position. In fact, applying too much brow gel while trying to achieve this look can actually have the opposite effect, weighing down the brows even more. The trick to accomplishing this look is finding an organic, fragrance-free clear bar of soap. Health food stores and farmers markets are often the best place to look. After shaping your client's brows with wax, tweezers or your preferred method, wet a clean spooly brush and rub it against the soap, coating the brush entirely and creating a small amount of foam. You don’t want it to be wet, just a little damp so the soap isn’t hard. Next, slowly and with some pressure, run the brush through the clients brows, starting at the front for maximum impact. Brush the client’s brows directly upwards through the length of the brow so all the individual hairs are standing straight up. Once the soap dries in the brows, it will have a strong hold and keep those hairs in place! The final step is to use a thin brow pencil or angled brush with pomade to create hair like strokes and fill in
any sparse areas. Your client will have straight brows fit for any editorial shoot for the rest of the day!
3. Brow Straightening For a more permanent option for clients seeking the straight brow look, this brow straightening treatment is similar to a lash lift. Using a perming solution, you can lift the brow hairs into your desired direction. This treatment is especially great for those with wiry hairs, or hairs that grow in outwards or downward directions. Often called a “brow straightening treatment” or “brow lift” (not to be confused with a surgical brow lift!), this treatment involves a two-step solution process. First, cleanse the client’s brows to remove any trace of makeup or oil. Comb through the brows and apply the perming solution over the brow. After two minutes (depending on manufacturer instructions), use a fine brow comb to place the brows in the desired position. Repeat this step every two minutes until the perming solution has been on for the total time recommended by the manufacturer. Remove the perming solution and apply the neutralizer. Once the process
image Brow Artist Trends is complete, this is a great time to tint the brows! There are a few brow perming kits available on the market, however some lash lift manufacturers can recommend ways to use their product on the brows. This service is not for everyone, but for some clients it’s just what they need!
4. Henna Brows When tinting eyebrows, what often leaves the biggest impact, especially on clients who already have dark brows, is the way the dye temporarily stains the skin and creates the look of filled-in brows. Clients love that there isn’t any makeup in the brow and it already looks fuller! However, traditional brow tints are not meant to stain the skin, and often wash away after one or two showers. Clients are left with tinted brow hairs, but without the look of filled in brows.
HC
Brow henna is an alternative tinting option that can stain the skin for a longer period of time, releasing clients from the burden of penciling in their brows every morning. However, don’t go out and purchase any henna solution and take it straight to the brows! Henna formulations made especially for the brows are taking the market by storm, producing a wide range of reliable colors. Look for a brand with great education and a solid color range to start tinting clients’ brows!
darker as you reach the end of the brow. This look is great for any skin tone and brow color, as it creates a natural lift. Too much color at the start of the brow can create a heavy, dragged-down look. Ombre brows can even be created with permanent makeup, such as microblading, for a more natural look. Practice this trend on clients seeking a lighter appearance, or mature clients looking to open and lift the eye.
5. Ombre Brows This final trend can be replicated with almost any medium: pencil, powder, gel, pomade, tint or henna. The goal of this look is to create an ombre effect, or a smooth transition from light to dark moving from the inner corner of the brow to the outer tail, getting
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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51................. Advanced Esthetics..................................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 41................. Advanced Medical Aesthetic Solution............................................................................ meditimeusa.com 19................. Agera Laboratories.............................................................................................................. ageralabs.com 84................. Altair Instruments...................................................................................................... altairinstruments.com 40................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.......................................................................... beauinstitute.com 39................. Bella Schneider Beauty...................................................................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com 30................. Bio France Lab.................................................................................................................biofrancelab.com 4,5................ Bio-Therapeutic.......................................................................................................... bio-therapeutic.com 9................... Celluma...............................................................................................................................biophotas.com 68................. Dermaswiss....................................................................................................................... dermaswiss.com 55................. Dermaware........................................................................................................................dermaware.com 67................. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc........................................................................................................ dr-jeff.com 2,3,79........... Eminence Organic Skin Care..................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 83................. Equipro USA..................................................................................................................... equipro-bty.com 18................. Gold Cosmetics............................................................................................................goldcosmetics.com 59................. Grandelash MD............................................................................................................grandelashmd.com 78................. Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................................................................halecosmeceuticals.com 9................... Hawrych MD Lash....................................................................................................... hawrychmdlash.com 31................. Hempfield Botanicals.............................................................................................hempfielbotanicals.com 22, 23........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas.........................................................Dallas.skincareshows.com 43................. Industry Cosmetics...............................................................................................................gomyskin.com 58................. Karin Herzog.....................................................................................................................Karinherzog.com 13................. Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics....................................................................................... biellecosmetics.com 49................. NuFree - Equibal Labs.........................................................................................nufree-professionals.com 81................. Premiere Shows................................................................................................. premiereorlandoshow.biz 77................. Rejuvi Laboratory................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 15................. Shira Cosmetics............................................................................................................. shiraesthetics.com 50................. Silcskin/Calvet Cosmetics LLC..................................................................................................silcskin.com 69................. Skin Accents......................................................................................................................skinaccents.com 71................. Skin Script Skin Care.......................................................................................................... skinscriptrx.com 14................. The Wax Connection..............................................................................................thewaxconnection.com
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