LNE & Spa - September 2016 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals September 2016

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from the

editor

The end of summer heralds the start of clients looking to their estheticians to improve the tone, texture and radiance of their skin. Peels are one of the best magical wands for estheticians. Professional peels not only enhance the texture and tone of the skin — they also help the skin look and act younger over time. Everything you need to know about this highly effective treatment is in our special Peels Guide! No issue would be complete without an insider look at the industry's hottest topics. Learn how you can offer comprehensive wellness to your clients via treatments, workshops and lectures on sexual well-being. Strengthen your expertise on extractions with the full scoop on instruments and contraindications. Go beyond the sugar scrub and discover new ingredients that make exfoliation an indulgence. Make sure each new employee you add to your team advances your vision with our expert tricks and tips for hiring top talent.

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Step out of your skin care practice and embrace the flow of innovation within your community of fellow spa professionals at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa on September 11 & 12 at the Long Beach Convention Center. Our mission is to further your growth and nurture your success. We strive to be your source of inspiration to help you move forward and expand your business. Don’t miss this opportunity to breathe new life into your career and services. We’ll see you there!

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com

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S E P T E M B E R 20 1 6

V o l u me 3 1

N u mbe r 9

CONTENTS SKIN

The New Skin Type Analysis 12 Extractions: A Facial Must 20 Skin News 26

page 20

Spa of the Month Beyond the Sugar Scrub Spa News

Sexual Well-being in the Spa 102 Massage During Facial 110 Organic & Wellness News 116

Sexual Well-being in the Spa page 102

Extractions: A Facial Must

SPA

ORGANIC & WELLNESS

28 34 42

The Big Comeback of 1990s Makeup page 122

IMAGE

BUSINESS

Behind the Spa Door with Angela Cortright Hire Top Talent! Home-based Esthetician? Business News

Business Advice for Beauty Professionals with Amy Amaral The Big Comeback of 1990s Makeup Image News

46 48 56 66

EXTRAS

PEELS GUIDE

Mastering Peels 68 Peels to Repair Skin 74 Customized Peels 82 Before and After Peels 88 Peels Product Photo Feature 96

From the Editor Advertiser Index

120 122 128

6 130

Cover Model: Jenna B Kelley NEXT models, NY

Peels Guide page 67

Makeup: Kim Weber www.kimweber.com Hair: Johnny Lavoy represented by ABTP Agency, NY Styling: James Aguiar Photography: Helena Palazzi represented by Agent Oliver, NY

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial Associate Maureen Castellon maureen@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Alan Araya alan@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

ST L E B EA D

ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontributors Judith Bourgeois Diane Buccola Lisa VanBockern Caroline Canetti Elizabeth A. Cardarelli

Maureen Castellon Beverlee Garb, M.P.A. Janel Luu Freda A. Mills

Rachael Pontillo Jay A. Shorr Mara Shorr Dave Waggoner Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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Differentiating Skin Needs Through Combinations Rather than Type by Rachael Pontillo

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SKIN

THE NEW SKIN TYPE ANALYSIS

Words like oily and sensitive are descriptors and symptoms, not necessarily types.

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S O P H I S T I C AT E D P O S T A E S T H E T I C I N J E C T I O N T R E AT M E N T S BRUENEFELD INTERNATIONAL www.bruenefeld.us 800-808-6384 Stop by our Booth 1024 at the ICES show in Long Beach, Sept. 11-12, 2016 2016 LNEonline.com | SEPTEMBER Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #239 on reader service card

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SKIN

THE NEW SKIN TYPE ANALYSIS

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SKIN

THE NEW SKIN TYPE ANALYSIS

Treatment room: Provide a deep cleansing treatment only in areas where pores are visibly clogged, with a hydrating hydrosol spray treatment containing antiaging ingredients, a multi-masking protocol with an absorbing clay only where clogged pores are visible and a soothing humectant-based mask on the rest of the face. Follow this with an emollient, but non-comedogenic moisturizer or facial oil. Home care: Include simple formulations with antioxidant-rich plant oils and butters that do not contain a lot of actives or extracts, since she’s recovering from sensitivity. Products should contain anti-inflammatory hydrating ingredients such as aloe vera or calendula, as well as highly emollient ingredients such as jojoba or hemp seed oil to prevent trans-epidermal water loss and rebalance sebum production. The following examples illustrate how to approach each client’s skin as a combination, rather than a type or condition:

EXAMPLE 1: A client presents with

symptoms of premature aging, such as dynamic fine lines around the eyes, on the forehead and around the mouth. She claims to have dry skin, which is visible on the cheeks and around the mouth, but she also has clogged pores on her nose, though the skin isn’t visibly oily. She has never been pregnant, and has no significant health issues in her history. She experienced mild acne and oiliness as a teenager, but then began to experience dryness and reactions to the products she had been using for “oily to combination” skin. (Most products for “combination skin” are made up of ingredients that won’t clog pores or strip the skin’s lipids, which won’t necessarily improve this skin issue.) A treatment plan for this skin should be designed to hydrate, protect, strengthen and prevent, with non-comodegenic and sun protective ingredients.

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EXAMPLE 2: A client presents with uneven texture, scarring and hyperpigmentation. She developed acne and melasma during her first pregnancy. The acne improved, but the melasma persisted, and hyperpigmented scars are still visible. She does not get large breakouts, though her skin is still oily and prone to congestion, which causes it to sometimes appear dirty and dull. The client wants her skin to be smoother, brighter and more evenly pigmented. Treatment room: While it may seem intuitive to begin with exfoliating or resurfacing skin treatments, the persistence of the melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is a clear sign that the skin is still in defensive mode, and underlying inflammation is still present. Adding more inflammation — even superficially — will only make matters worse. Avoid strong skin lightening ingredients such as hydroquinone, certain forms of vitamin C and even kojic acid, which may irritate this skin and exacerbate the problem. Only soothing and non-invasive treatments should be used. In place of a tra-

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ditional facial massage, acupressure or manual lymphatic drainage is preferred. A red LED light may be effective, as well as calming gel or sheet masks. A gentle clay such as white kaolin may be used in areas of congestion. Avoid steam or hot compresses, and limit exfoliation protocol to a gentle enzyme mask. Home care: Include naturally brightening herbal extracts, non-irritant tyrosinase inhibitors, non-comedogenic carrier oils rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids in a daily regimen. A gentle enzyme and clay mask may be used weekly to address textural issues and keep pores clean. Explain to your client that melasma and hyperpigmentation require patience for long-term results. The client should be educated about how her skin got to this condition, and reassured that her goals are attainable with compliance. She can expect that textural issues like scarring will improve as the pigmentation resolves, which is an indicator that the inflammation is calming down and the skin’s normal wound-healing process has returned. For long-term results and client-loyalty, look at the skin as an ever-changing combination. Make product and protocol decisions based not only on your professional skin and ingredient knowledge, but also by learning more about your clients’ skin’s past, present and future. 

Rachael Pontillo is the bestselling author of the book “Love Your Skin, Love Yourself”. She is an international health coach, licensed esthetician and natural skin care formulator and educator. Pontillo is the president and co-founder of the Nutritional Aesthetics™ Alliance, creator of the healthy lifestyle blog, Holistically Haute™ and the online course, Create Your Skincare. She is currently pursuing her Ph.D. in Holistic Life Counseling, and holds certifications in metaphysical science, detoxification, acupressure, Reiki, Chinese facial diagnosis and Ayurveda.

. ch s ea it u B . Vis ng 219 Lo th # ES oo IC B

A Brighter You is at your fingertips... and at your hands, your arms, your face, and your décolleté

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Always check with your state cosmetology board to make sure you are working within your scope of practice regarding lancets, comedone extractors and manual manipulations. Every state is different and it is important to stay updated on your local laws and regulations.

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EXTRACTIONS: a facial MUST the inside scoop, from instruments to contraindications by Freda A. Mills

hile some estheticians may feel apprehensive about performing extractions, they are an essential component to incorporate into your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; facial treatments. The purpose of extractions is to rid the face of unsightly blackheads and whiteheads without spreading infection and inflammation. Blackheads and whiteheads are similar in that they are both composed of oil and debris trapped below the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface. In the case of blackheads, the material makes it outside of the pore and is exposed to air, causing oxidation and making them a dark color. The material in whiteheads, on the other hand, does not make it all the way outside of the pore, so is not exposed to air and therefore is not oxidized, hence remaining white. Removing blackheads and whiteheads via extractions gives skin a fresh look and feel, even helping the individual to look younger. So what are the keys to performing safe, effective extractions?

SKIN

EXTRACTIONS: A FACIAL MUST

CONSULTATION

CLEANSE

The first step of incorporating extractions into a facial treatment is to conduct a thorough consultation with your client. The consultation should always include the following key questions to determine the causes of their clogged pores and extraction treatment method:

Following the consultation, cleanse the skin to prepare for a proper skin analysis. Select a cleanser that provides emulsification, such as a formula with essential fatty acids. The recommended cleanser pH is 6.0. If the skin is congested, avoid cleansing scrubs or formulas containing benzoyl peroxide or glycolic acid. In addition to cleansing, toner is an essential part of the pre–treatment process, to balance the skin so it is more receptive to product application. Select a toner with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5.

How often do you exfoliate? What are your main skin care concerns? What are your long-term goals for your skin’s health and appearance? It is important to finish this consultation with your client by emphasizing the importance of following a consistent schedule of exfoliating treatments and extractions, the key to preventing clogged pores in the future.

SEPTEMBER 2016

SKIN ANALYSIS Now that you have consulted with your client and cleansed their skin, you are ready to examine their skin. It is essential to conduct a thorough assessment

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with a magnifying lamp with at least 5x diopter magnification to identify follicular conditions in order to safely and proficiently perform extractions. Blackheads, whiteheads, milia cysts and pustules of any size are all safe conditions for extractions. Because there is minimal trauma and inflammation associated with these conditions, there is little chance of causing unnecessary irritation, inflammation or prolonged wound healing. It is NOT safe to perform extractions on cystic acne, nodule cystic acne, and small or large papules. These particular conditions are inflamed, and hence extractions may cause them to become infected, encourage fibrosis, irritate adjacent glands and spread potential exposure to bacterium to other areas of the skin. Note that if skin is congested with open and closed comedones, due to their skin type or lack of consistent exfoliation, it may be necessary to spend extra time on the extractions, and allow more time for the client’s skin to recover between treatments.

PREPPING THE SKIN The first step in preparing for extractions is to exfoliate any surface cell buildup, which can cause dehydration. It is also key to ensure that the follicle impactions are soft and debris is loosened, as softened skin allows for a more relaxed and pliable follicle. Enzymatic formulas work well to soften the area around the follicle wall, making it easy to manipulate the follicle without additional trauma. Gentle alpha hydroxy acids can be used for this purpose as well. A facial massage with steam also helps prepare the skin tissue to release the foreign debris from the follicle. An ultrasonic device known as a scrubber can be used to help loosen the impacted pores as well.

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EXTRACTIONS: A FACIAL MUST

Cosmetic acids may be too dehydrating to the skin because they leave the surrounding follicle resistant to irritation, unnecessary inflammation and possible damage to the skin’s barrier of protection. Refrain from applying acids to oily, acne or highly congested skin before extractions.

PROTOCOL

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Several techniques and tools can be used to perform extractions, including comedone extractors, manual manipulations and lancets (see sidebar). No matter which tools you utilize, always use a magnifying lamp to perform extractions, and isolate the prominent active areas so you can see the pores. Care must be taken not to bruise the skin or inflame broken capillaries. Never resort to pushing the skin when oxidative material is difficult to remove, as

this can move the debris further into the follicle. Work on one specific section of the face for each treatment — do not attempt the entire face in one visit. Working on one isolated area at a time is a more successful strategy and allows for consistent healing. The ideal amount of time for extractions is 10 minutes, after which the skin will cool down and become too constricted to continue. Following the extractions, apply a toner to work as an antiseptic and pH normalizer for skin repair. At this point you may perform lymphatic drainage for additional healing. Then apply a mask with a cooling formula for ultimate drainage and healing. Cold therapy is important when repairing the skin, as it heightens lymph and oxygen activity, and eliminates cellular waste. Remove after five to seven minutes with a cool towel (never warm or hot). Finally, apply

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SKIN

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a serum with an aqueous base, along with a nourishing moisturizer and physical sunscreen for skin protection. 

• Additional protocol options that can assist with healing, minimize redness and reduce P.acnes activity following extractions include L.E.D. light therapy and oxygen infusion therapy.

Freda A. Mills is an independent consultant for Skin for Life. She has been a CIDESCO diplomat since 1997. Mills is a passionate role model for the skin care industry, providing education and training and selecting the most innovative skin care products and state of the art equipment.

A true botanical powerhouse in your hands As the pioneers of aromatherapy, DECLÉOR harnesses the natural power of essential oils & scientific expertise to deliver powerful skincare. DECLÉOR brings results to skin at spa and at home. Discover more about our business support and in-depth education designed to help your spa succeed. www.decleorusa.com • 888.852.2829

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DOse of skin enhancement

The YANA™ Daily Collagen Shots from IMAGE Skincare are made up of a revolutionary beauty liquid. Designed as an easy to drink daily shot, it has a highly concentrated proprietary blend of collagen peptides, ceramides, antioxidants and vitamins, and helps to restore the essential elements skin needs to regain and maintain its youthful appearance. It rebuilds and strengthens skin by boosting the body’s natural collagen production.

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SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SkinNews

cleansing drench for dry skin

The Sunflower & Olive Cleansing Oil from Lucrece Physicians’ Aesthetic Research is proven highly effective for dry, oily and acne prone skin. The botanical oil based cleanser is also most effective for makeup and sunscreen removal, making it a great way to start an evening regimen. The Sunflower & Olive Cleansing Oil works to dissolve excess oil from the skin, unclogging pores while removing dirt and other impurities.

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AHEAD OF ITS TIME

Photodamage can be repaired at a molecular level. DNA Repair from Neova is a serum developed by Photomedex as a result of pivotal research in skin aging. The Nobel Prize in Chemistry 2015 provided fundamental knowledge of how living cells function. This research is the cornerstone of Neova’s DNA repair technology. This formula is ahead of its time, considering that these discoveries were just awarded the Nobel Prize, yet have been incorporated into this serum over the last six years.

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Bio-C from Innoaesthetics is a no-downtime treatment developed for all skin types that need a boost in luminosity. A gentle exfoliation followed by an antioxidant infusion, it helps swap sundamaged skin for smooth, glowing skin that looks radiant! This two-step solution contains lactobionic acid, a polyhydroxy acid that gently exfoliates and works as an antioxidant to give the skin a youthful appearance, as well as mandelic acid, which helps even out the tone and texture of the skin. The second step infuses the skin with beauty boosting vitamin C and hyaluronic acid.

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA 30 Years of Skin Care & Spa Expertise Your Source to Breathe New Life Into Your Business

Long Beach, CA SEPTEMBER 11 & 12, 2016 LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

• Main Stage Lectures & Demos • Mindful Biz Conference • Social Media Conference • Revenue Growth Conference • Wellness Conference • Makeup Conference • Spa Refresh Conference • Customer Care Conference • Product Focused Training • Hundreds Of Exhibitors

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AT MONARCH BEACH by Amanda Clinton Winter

iraval Resort & Spa is more than a destination resort; it is a signature health and wellness lifestyle brand. With core principles that focus on mindfulness and well-being, Miraval has expanded beyond its flagship location in the Santa Catalina Mountains of Tucson, Ariz., to a new facility at the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort in Dana Point of Southern California. While signature treatments from the original Miraval remain on the menu, the Monarch Beach location takes inspiration from its Pacific setting. “We’re drawing on the spa’s local surroundings to create activities, lectures and treatments that stimulate an authentic connection to the physical and spiritual serenity of the coastal location,” explains spa director Michelle Frye.

Training

Employees of Miraval are brand ambassadors, and it is key for team members to connect with the brand’s core philosophies. Miraval views their employees as the greatest resource in the organization, and invests heavily in training to ensure the best possible experience for their guests. To ensure continuity of customer service at Miraval’s new location, five weeks were dedicated to rigorous staff training prior to opening. Yoga and fitness instructors, leads and managers were sent to the location in Tucson for immersion into the company culture.

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SPA

SPA OF THE MONTH

Frye calls this dedication to maintaining the culture “the key to our success.” Team members learned how to bring that energy to Monarch Beach for seamless hospitality between locations.

Team The wellness sanctuary has specific goals that are carried out by staff. The Miraval environment provides a calming oasis in an increasingly hectic modern world. Staff tends to have Type E personalities, which are highly specialized to be nurturing, with characteristics that include seeking to complement coworkers rather than compete, all working cohesively with a sense of shared passion. To foster a strong sense of communication, there are daily team meetings to touch base, weekly management meetings as well as monthly meetings for all. Annual performance reviews focus on strengths and positive feedback to ensure each team member is valued. With Miraval’s focus on engaging in positivity and wellness, it is key that there is harmony between all departments, and that the lines of communication are open.

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Marketing Word of mouth is the most effective method of marketing, and the goal is to create memorable experiences. Miraval achieves this goal by sending a detailed questionnaire to guests within 24 hours of booking their reservation. With a choice of more than 300 activities to enjoy, this form narrows down the best options for each guest by identifying dietary restrictions, personal interests in the multitude of spa offerings and gender preferences for therapists. This attention to detail has earned a 30 percent repeat rate with the exclusive Authentic Circle loyalty program for guests. Members receive the benefits of guaranteed best rates, savings and complimentary additions. “Once we get them in the door the unique treatment and service experience are sure to make them return,” Frye explains. Miraval has a core reputation that, while luxurious, is renowned for being warm and inviting. Guests seek treatments not just for pampering, but also as a way to consciously manage stress. By creating a signature health and wellness lifestyle, the selling point is

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unique expertise on how to lead a better life that targets every market segment. As a new location, Monarch Beach has been using a multitude of marketing platforms, from Facebook and Pandora to radio ads. The local community is engaged via weekly e-blasts that include helpful tips and promotions.

Signature Treatments Miraval’s “Life in Balance” philosophy is supported by marine-based treatments that are representative of the Pacific setting. The ocean is the ultimate mineral water, which is easily absorbed by the body due to its shared chemistry with the human body, which is made up of at least 60 percent water. These marine-based ingredients deliver minerals, enzymes and amino acids to the skin. A sampling of the coastal treatments incorporate pure ingredients harvested from the sea. Miraval at Monarch Beach offers a multitude of experiences uniquely designed for this second location that feature sea minerals, Undaria algae,

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SPA

SPA OF THE MONTH

RUNDOWN 1 Monarch Beach Resort Dana Point, Calif. 92629 949.234.3200 Launched: April 2016 Owner: KSL Resorts Spa director: Michelle Frye FACILITY AND AMENITIES 23 treatment rooms 1 eucalyptus steam room Indoor jacuzzi Outdoor lap pool Spa Café Dry bar Nail salon SIGNATURE TREATMENTS The Monarch Beach Prep Ocean and Earth Body Wrap Sea Salt Serenity Undaria Seaweed Detox

marine mud, watercress and seaweed. The Monarch Beach Prep (110 minutes, $375) is an intense firming treatment with sea salt and oil smoothed over the body with both warm and iced mitts. A therapeutic scalp massage tops the Ocean and Earth Body Wrap (50 minutes, $200), which involves skin brushing and exfoliation courtesy of algae or marine mud blended with bespoke essential oils. The most popular treatment to date has been the Sea Salt Serenity (110 minutes, $375). It offers the opportunity to rebalance with a polishing sea salt and oil scrub as a starter, followed by an advanced massage featuring crystal salt stones and curated essential oils to re-mineralize the body. The crowning touch includes a watercress mask and bliss inducing scalp massage. The most specialized ingredient among the coastal themed treatments is showcased in the Undaria Seaweed Detox (80 minutes, $290). A seaweed pumice, along with an acai and guarana blend create a polish to purify pores and seal in the skin’s moisture. Guests then soak in a green marine detox bath consisting of organic Undaria algae and pure lavender.

Revenue and Retail Incorporating products that harness the healing properties of nature is an essential consideration for Miraval’s wellness branding, and home care is a key component to complete each guest’s experience. All treatment products are displayed on the 20-foot wall in the spa reception area. Following each treatment, a prescription card is filled out for each guest highlighting the products used in treatments. The esthetician delivers this card to the front desk, where the prescribed products are set out for the guest to review at checkout. The goal is to sell at least one product to every guest having a service. Vendors provide incentives for the team to increase retail sales. The incentives vary based on the season, and include discounts and educational programs designed to support the growth of both businesses. 

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

PRODUCT LINES USED & RETAILED OSEA Malibu EmerginC Deborah Lippmann La Bella Donna makeup ESPA CLIENT BREAKDOWN 84% female 16% male

Spa Director Spotlight

Spa director Michelle Frye comes to Miraval with more than 20 years of hospitality and

spa management experience. She previously served as the Director of Spa at The Spa at La Costa at Omni La Costa Resort and Spa in Carlsbad, Calif, and has held a variety of roles at other prominent luxury spa brands.

Frye is also well versed in hotel opera-

tions, having been the hotel assistant man-

ager at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and

Spa and the assistant front office manager at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler Resort. Frye’s educational background includes a Bachelor

of Applied Arts, Hospitality and Tourism Management from Ryerson University of Toronto, Canada.

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scrub the

THE NEW INGREDIENTS TO REVAMP EXFOLIATION by Caroline Canetti

MOVE OVER SUGAR AND SALT,

there are a slew of new and exciting exfoliating materials in town. Spas around the world are unearthing some unassuming natural — and many times local — materials to take their scrub treatments into innovative and inspiring territories. From volcanic clay to Aztec grains to grated coconut, here's a look at some of the most unique scrub materials spas around the world are offering today.

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BEYOND THE SUGAR SCRUB

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LONG TERM

INSTANT PLUMP BENEFITS

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BEYOND THE SUGAR SCRUB

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circulatory savior

CirculaCrème from Nelly de Vuyst is an ideal treatment for those prone to heavy legs (varicosity, spider vein), hydric cellulite, muscle pain, inflammatory or joint pain (arthritis, osteoporosis). It utilizes balancing properties derived from a blend of pure essential oils combined with arnica, benefitting the hydrostatic pressure and venous system. The CirculaCrème relieves pain sensations, providing a unique feeling of freshness and well-being.

800.263.8888 nellydevuyst.com

BREAKTHROUGH BALM Celebrating 25 years in the marketplace, Performance Health, the owner of the Biofreeze topical analgesic brand, is pleased to announce the launch of Biofreeze® Professional. Biofreeze Professional is based on the original Biofreeze formula, and has optimized key ingredients to provide a longer-lasting experience. It also has a smoother application with fast absorption for relief from backaches, arthritis, sore muscles and joints, sprains, strains and bruises.

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

SPANews

cellular recharge

The state-of-the-art LED Bed from LightStim is a soothing, natural and non-invasive treatment that promotes total body wellness and peak physiological function with the power of LightStim MultiWave® Patented Technology. Composed of 18,240 LEDs designed to rejuvenate, repair and energize every cell in the body, it is FDA cleared to temporarily relieve muscle, joint and arthritic pain and increase local blood circulation.

949.502.4088 lightstim.com

POLISHED PREP

The Sea Spa Glow from Repêchage is an all over marine salt based body exfoliant infused with hydrating, moisture-binding seaweed and olive oil. This formula helps to rid the skin of dry, dead cells that have accumulated as a result of travel, sun exposure or aging. It leaves your clients feeling energized and refreshed with super smooth, silky soft skin.

800.248.7546 repechage.com

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SEPTEMBER 2016

800.321.2135 performancehealth.com

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MICRODERMABRASION THE NEXT GENERATION

CONTINUING THE EVOLUTION OF SKIN RESURFACING, ALTAIR INSTRUMENTS IS PROUD TO INTRODUCE THE NEXT GENERATION IN CRYSTAL FREE MICRODERMABRASION. USING THE HYDROPLUS TECHNIQUE COMBINES DRY EXFOLIATION FOLLOWED BY SERUM INFUSION TO CREATE THE MOST EFFECTIVE SKIN REJUVENATION TREATMENT.

DELIVERS.

VIS

Improve the texture and appearance of your skin with our Vitamin C serum

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TRUSTED FOR INNOVATION, QUALITY AND DESIGN THE NEW

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SEPTEMBER 2016

Rapidex® Marine Exfoliator This effective, hygienic, unique system is a phenomenon in Asia, combining Marine Hydroxy Acids with a gentle blend of AHA’s and seaweed extracts to create clear, refined and flawless skin in 14 days.

Hydro-Complex® PFS This seaweed-based daily cream contains our proprietary sea-complex (PFS), AHA multi-fruit exfoliant, vitamins and minerals that nourish, renew and hydrate skin.

C-Serum® Seaweed Filtrate A multi-vitamin for your skin, this potent seaweed serum provides essential nutrients such as vitamins B12, C, E, K and Beta Carotene, 18 amino acids and 42 trace elements and minerals to help prevent fine lines, replenish moisture and restore the skin barrier.

Call us now for a FREE sample 1 . 8 0 0 . 2 4 8 . S K I N www.repechage.com

HEALTHY SKIN BEGINS WITH SEAWEED

100%

Sea the Difference!

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Since 1980, Repêchage® has helped create healthy, beautiful skin using the finest, most potent ingredient from nature---seaweed. Combining the latest scientific research with our exclusive, sustainably-grown organic seaweed, Repêchage® products nurture, protect and help strengthen the skin barrier.

WITH OVER 8 SEAWEED-BASED SKIN CARE COLLECTIONS FOR EVERY SKIN TYPE AND CONCERN REPÊCHAGE® BEAUTY FROM THE SEA® AND MORE.... SKIN IS MORE PROTECTED SKIN IS MORE RESILIENT SKIN IS MORE NOURISHED SKIN IS MORE RESTORED SKIN IS MORE LUMINOUS

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CERTIFIED COMPANY

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PROVIDES EVERYTHING YOUR SKIN NEEDS,

BEHIND THE SPA DOOR â&#x20AC;ŚWith

Angela Cortright

owner and director of award winning Spa Gregories, Newport Beach and Rancho Santa Margarita, Calif.

Concept Spa Gregories is an award-winning spa that combines tranquil elegance with accessible luxury. Our philosophy is wellbeing with a focus on plant extracts. We seek to nourish, heal and balance.

Facility and Offerings Treatment rooms and amenities We have 17 rooms for services in addition to locker rooms, showers, a quiet room, meditation stations and a Sleep Lounge chair.

Most popular treatments Massage is our best-seller. Our professional staff consists of experts in their craft that have advanced certifications in specialized techniques. Aside from classics, we provide Soothing Stones, Maternity and Fassage, which combines a massage and a facial and an oncology treatment. We have oncology-trained therapists who have created guidelines that adjust pressure and positioning for individual comfort levels.

Menu options Menu items only differ minimally resulting from equipment limitations. In our Newport Beach location, we have a hydrotherapy tub. In Rancho Santa Margarita we have a hair salon for styling and cutting. Otherwise, menus are the same to ensure continuity.

Leadership Role Time management Each day in the spa life differs. I think of business as the beginning of the year when it is imperative to complete budgets, reviews and tax preparation and the rest of the year. I am passionate about marketing, but I know I have to divide my time between management wrangling, financial controls and strategic planning.

Biggest Challenge I am ultimately responsible for the health and welfare of the company, our staff and our guests while they are in our care. There are a myriad of needs that arise at any given time. You must be able to address those needs while not neglecting other short and long-term goals. There might be a critical equipment failure that could take all of my time, yet I must not lose sight of the employee development program that needs finishing touches.

Staying grounded I pray on a daily basis to center myself. Exercise and deep breathing are also integral components of my personal stress management. 46

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Retail Location and size

the phone or face-to-face. Therapists are required to do a practical. A second interview includes additional managers. If they pass the background check, we extend a formal offer. Selection is based on three criteria: relevant experience, poise and a positive attitude. We have a $200 bounty for employees that refer a new hire, assuming the new hire stays for at least 90 days.

Our retail boutique is at the front of the spa in the same area as check in/out. It’s approximately 200 square feet whereas the spa is about 5,500 square feet. We placed the retail area at the front so that anyone, including walk-ins, can shop with spa coordinators and concierge assisting with sales. Additionally, therapists can Training protocol leave recommended prod- We have a one-week onucts for guests at checkout. boarding program for the front and back of the house. Therapists receive additional Goals From establishing clear goals treatment trainings if necesto teaching our staff how to sary. Our vendors provide sell without being off-putting, regular ongoing training. We retail is an investment of time also have video tutorials on and energy. My goal is to av- all of our treatments for staff, erage 25 percent retail sales accompanied by quizzes. to service.

Evaluation Incentives Our incentives exclusively focus on commissions, which ranges from six to 12 percent depending on volume and seniority. We do monthly promotions, and vendors usually sponsor the incentives program.

Team Building

We conduct a 90-day review after hiring, followed by annual reviews. I check in with team members and check online reviews to see who is doing a stellar job. An employee stands out as a star when they go above and beyond, show initiative and set an example for other staff.

Marketing And Publicity

Employee composition We have about 80 employees — 40 massage therapists, 25 estheticians and four nail technicians. Others are workers in the front and back of the house.

I am open-minded regarding a multitude of marketing strategies. The focus is largely online these days and digital advertising. Yelp advertising has done well for us. We also pay for SEO services. We do Facebook posts and Hiring process I primarily recruit with online twice monthly newsletters. job sites. From there I begin We still do some newspaper/ the hiring process by review- magazine advertising around ing resumes and conduct- Christmas and Mother’s Day. ing interviews either over A fruitful endeavor has been

community relations — we have a lot of partnerships with local photographers, restaurants, fitness centers, etc.

Exceptional Client Care Above and beyond

‘Zen out’, as well as a sleep lounge chair and a ritual involving aromatherapy, calming tea and music to enhance sleep.

We are rabid about customer service — there are practically no limits to what we will do to satisfy customers, from delivering gift certificates to the airport to picking up a very pregnant guest. For rookies Do your homework! Build a solid and comprehensive busiLoyalty rewards We have a loyalty program ness plan and have reserve that is part of our software. money for contingencies. Points are accumulated for Build a great staff by respectservice, retail and gift certifi- ing their talents and allowing cate purchases as well as other them to blossom. Reach out to others in the industry for customizable purchases. guidance and ideas.

Tips For Spa Leaders

Ambiance Our starting point for creating positive energy is our ‘charity wall’ at the guest entryway. This is the area for clients to indicate which causes are most dear to them. We use that information to direct our charitable giving for the following month. Community service is part of our mission statement. In the locker rooms, we have ‘little love letters’ which our guests both create and take. In each treatment, guests can randomly choose an affirmation card to keep. Additionally, there are meditation stations in the quiet room for the guests to enjoy and

For experienced owners/managers Be grateful for the privilege of working in this amazing industry. Reach out to others in the industry to learn from each other. Give back — share your experience with the rookies!

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We want to he ar from YOU!

Share your insider tips on runn ing a succes sful practice with us , and you may be featured in an upcoming editio n of Les Nouvell es Esthétiques & Spa. Simply se nd an email to amanda@LNE online.com (50 to 100 words). To gether, let's bu ild a community on e word at a tim e!

SEPTEMBER 2016

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The Secrets to Recruiting the Spa Industry’s Best by Beverlee Garb, M.P.A. Leadership is not something that one can fake. By definition, it requires the consent and enrollment of a team, glued together by trust. Leaders who generate trust enable others to commit fully, be authentic and honest, stretch beyond their limitations, be open to change and to flourish into their own leadership. Those who fail to generate trust facilitate disengagement, gossip, dishonesty and disloyalty. A recent Gallup poll estimates that 70 percent of American workers classify themselves as “emotionally disconnected” from their workplace. It is estimated that these disengaged employees cost the U.S. between $450 and $550 billion each year because they are more likely to steal, negatively influence coworkers, miss workdays, leave their jobs and drive customers away.

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SEPTEMBER 2016

BUSINESS

HIRE TOP TALENT!

Enter the

Step-by-Step Drawing!

Visit LNEONLINE.com for an exclusive look into a step-by-step treatment and a chance to win This month: Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #167 on reader service card

Quick Fix ABC Peel

Professional Strength Cellzyme Peel, A+ Smart Peel and Other DermawareÂ® Products to Perform this treatment - $400 value

SEPTEMBER 2016

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BUSINESS

HIRE TOP TALENT!

S.M.A.R.T. leaders foster lifelong strengths in their team members.

New Product Royal Silhouette Eye Therapy Serum Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #133 on reader service card

• Tightens & Lifts the Eye Area W/ Pullulan (Polysaccharide)

•Illuminates the Eye Area W/ Roe Enzyme Extract • Maintains Lipid Balance W/ L-Carnitine • Helps Brighten the Eye Area W/ Ferulic, Phytic, & Malic acid

(800) 951-7005

www.halecosmeceuticals.com Info@halecosmeceuticals.com

Visit Us at Booth 625 in Long Beach SEPTEMBER 2016

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Bella CAVIARSchneider & CARAT FACIAL Through September 30, 2016, receive the DERMASCOPE Aesthetician Choice Award winner! Pot of Gold Scrub FREE with CAVIAR & CARAT Kit purchase. (Retail value $55.00).

Light exfoliation is followed by caviar ampules, gold elixir and an application of gold leaves, leaving skin brilliantly illuminated. Ideal for parties, weddings, and other high-profile events.

VISIT US IN LONG BEACH BOOTH 419-421

BRING THE AD TO OUR BOOTH TO RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY 15 MINUTE LYMPHATIC MASSAGE IN OUR BALLANCER SYSTEM.

BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC

Toll Free: 888.200.3977

| SEPTEMBER 2016 | 53 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com

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BUSINESS

HIRE TOP TALENT!

S.M.A.R.T. Tip If you are looking for increased productivity, greater employee retention and loyalty, and increased customer satisfaction, make building a culture of respect your number one priority. Practice seeing individuals in your organization as worthy (even with all the adversity and challenges they may bring), and see how this changes the way you interact with them.

Trust:

S.M.A.R.T. Tip Do not commit to anything you are not willing to create. Empty promises, missed deadlines and lack of communication chip away at trust. Show your team that they can trust you. In return, they will be trustworthy. An effective leader must be able to provide an environment in which people can excel. This requires balancing strategy, motivation, alignment, respect and trust to create a wonderfully engaged team that is successful at building something worthwhile. Take an honest look at the qualities you are bringing to your team â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not

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Trust is the benchmark of an effective working relationship. It is the safety glue that holds together a culture of authenticity, commitment, productivity and happiness. S.M.A.R.T. leaders understand that to create trust they must keep their promises (both spoken and unspoken);

they must also be competent, consistent, committed and caring. Teams with a trusted leader donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t waste time in petty disagreements and power struggles. They are happy to build the vision of the organization.

SEPTEMBER 2016

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Beverlee Garb, M.P.A., has been part of the spa beauty industry for more than 20 years as an esthetician, spa owner, spa consultant and spa director. She combines her understanding of the beauty industry with her degrees in economics, public policy and metaphysical studies to help organizations build happy teams in her globally recognized coaching and consulting company. Visit buildhappyteams.com for more information.

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HOMEBASED

esthetician?

All the PROS and CONS to Consider

SEPTEMBER 2016

LNeonline.com

by Mara Shorr and Jay A. Shorr

an esthetician employed by a spa, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re used to having a receptionist and products at your disposal, and not worrying about the operational expenses and responsibilities of your work. Despite these perks, a growing number of estheticians are now building practices in their own homes. Being a home-based esthetician is a different experience than working as an employee for a spa, and there are significant pros and cons to the job.

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SEPTEMBER 2016

BUSINESS

HOME-BASED ESTHETICIAN?

BEFORE making the leap and giving your notice, consider the following questions:

 Do you have the financial security to make it, considering that you most likely won’t see the same volume of business right away, and you may need to take on many new expenses to get started?  Are you comfortable having clients in your home?  Do you have a private space in your home to offer treatments?  Is your home a well-kept, clean, quiet place you’re proud to show off?  If you share your space with family members or roommates, are they comfortable with clients coming to your home-based spa? If so, are there specific hours when this would be acceptable, and would there be restrictions on early morning or late evening appointments that could negatively affect the business?

MARKETING You must decide who your target market will be, how you will promote your business to them and how you will grow.

Pros: -The channels you utilize and how you do so are completely up to you. You can portray yourself any way you choose through your branding, your logo and your social channel. Want a look that’s fresh and modern? Classic? It’s all up to you, as is the look and feel of your treatment room. *TIP: It is important to make sure that all your marketing has the same look and feel to it, maintaining consistency in your branding.

-Your clientele and boutique experience is more about high quality and low quantity, nurturing the relationships with long-term clients to minimize acquisition hurdles. This minimizes your marketing needs compared to that of a spa looking to grow massive traffic. *TIP: Aside from print and website marketing, consider networking at local chamber events

 Do you have access to running water and a sink for your treatments? Do you have ventilation required for certain treatments?  Is your home handicap accessible?  What type of brand are you looking to create, and what do you want to be known for? Are these visions compatible with a home-based business?  Will anyone else work for you, or will you be a solo-preneur? If it's the former, will they be contractors or employees?

SEPTEMBER 2016

and hosting “refer-a-friend” events in your home, or include holiday open house parties.

Cons: -You are now the one putting in the time and absorbing the costs of branding, including graphic design, sponsored posts, website creation and maintenance. *TIP: Enlist part-time help for your marketing, so you are not spending endless hours on website and social media updates.

-Another unique obstacle you may face as a home-based business is privacy, as you may not want to advertise your personal address to the world. *TIP: Leave your physical address off marketing material, including your business cards and website. Instead, include your general neighborhood or area of your town or city.

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“Inspired by Nature... realized by Science.”

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BUSINESS

HOME-BASED ESTHETICIAN?

RETAIL Pros: -You get to decide which product line works best for your client demographic and you get to follow your own skin care beliefs. Plus, you don’t have to stick with just one line — you may like one line’s vitamin C serum and another line’s SPF. Another option is to go with both well-known brands as well as a private label line to assist. *TIP: Attend industry conferences and try samples to find the products you love.

-You keep a larger portion of product sales, meaning an increase in your net revenue. *TIP: Make sure that no client leaves without purchasing something from you for their home care regimen so you are taking full advantage of this perk.

Cons: -You are now responsible for all decisions, including product lines, initial quantity, how much to keep on shelves and when to reorder. This initial process can be overwhelming and requires significant back and forth correspondence with sales reps. -You must be comfortable negotiating with your vendors, or you risk paying a high price. *TIP: Study the competition to find out what a fair retail price would be for the same or comparable products in your market.

VISIT US AT BOOTHS 519 & 521 IN LONG BEACH

-If you are not a natural salesperson, you must grow this skill FAST. You won’t sell retail if you don’t effectively convey the benefits of the products to your clients.

PURCHASE OF EQUIPMENT Pros:

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-You can choose the equipment and tools that you love as your own boss. Whether it’s your microdermabrasion machine of choice or the massage table you’ve been coveting, you can now go with the piece of equipment that makes your job as easy as possible.

Cons: -Working out of your home often comes with limited space and room for equipment. *TIP: Take careful measurements of the space you will utilize and ensure that any equipment you order can be moved and fit into the space with room left for you to work.

-The potentially hefty price tag of equipment completely falls on you. *TIP: Utilize a negotiation professional to get the lowest price possible, including warranties, additional pieces to certain devices, shipping, repairs and more. SEPTEMBER 2016

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SCALP GUIDE

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AUGUST 2016

BUSINESS

HOME-BASED ESTHETICIAN?

PAYMENT OPTIONS

INSURANCE Liability is a concern in any type of spa treatment. Anything and everything can go wrong, including

Pros: -You are now in charge of the payment options with which you do business, so you can make sure you offer ones that are most beneficial to your business and your clients.

damaging a patient’s skin if the incorrect chemicals or improper laser settings are used in treatments. In many states, estheticians can work without the direct supervision of a medical director, but this comes with risks. If an esthetician is allowed to use a laser, and the patient has a herpetic breakout and needs an antiviral medication, they are unable to legally prescribe the medication, and need a mid-level practitioner or

Cons: -With so many payment options to choose from, you may be overwhelmed and intimidated. *TIP: Do diligent research on all options available to ensure you take advantage of each one wisely: • Cash. This one is easy. However, make sure that you’re reporting ALL of the cash you accept to the tax man and not pocketing a little here and there. That’s illegal.

Obtain independent professional liability insurance to cover the services you perform. It covers the costs of legal defense and any potential settlement assigned in a judgment. Research all of the personal responsibilities covered prior to purchasing the insurance because there may be exclusions such as specific services and individual claim deductibles, which may be financially crippling. *Laws differ by state, so check with your local carrier and lawyer about what is needed.

Introducing your clients to Agera Labs has never been easier with the new 21 DAY TRIAL KITS - 3 complete home treatment skincare regimes to choose from!

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physician to intervene.

All 3 kits feature Agera’s star product MagC Peptide Serum!

Anti-Aging Recovery Skin Clarifying

Visit us at booth #128 ICES-LB

SEPTEMBER 2016

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BUSINESS

HOME-BASED ESTHETICIAN?

accept credit cards, which is not advisable in the 21st century. While something as simple as Square might do the trick, note that their processing rates are typically higher than other credit card processing options by as much as 1.5 to two percent. Get an additional two quotes for your credit card processing rates, and educate yourself on how credit card processing rates are issued. Cards with points have more fees associated with them, as do credit cards that are issued over the phone. • Checks. Generally, older clients may write more checks than your younger client base. If you have a younger client base, you may go weeks without seeing a single check. However, it’s advisable to utilize remote capture banking, which instantly deposits checks into your bank account and saves you a trip to the bank. The quicker the check goes into your bank, the less chance that it will bounce.

• Third party financing options. As an esthetician, CareCredit isn’t an option for you unless you have a Board Certified Medical Director as the supervising physician. However, look into other options for third party financing, as this comes in handy when you want to sell pricier packages and bundles of skin care. Ultimately, starting a solo practice in your own home on your own terms is an exciting journey, but not one to be taken

• Credit cards. Some spas still do not

lightly. Educate yourself, and seek professional consultation about anything you don’t understand. It’s better to dismiss the option with proper knowledge of the advantages and risks rather than face legal repercussions later. 

Jay A. Shorr is the founder and managing partner of The Best Medical Business Solutions, assisting esthetic businesses and medical practices with their operational, financial and administrative health. He is also a professional motivational speaker, an advisor to the Certified Aesthetic Consultant program and a certified medical business manager. Mara Shorr serves as the vice president of marketing and business development. She is a national speaker and a Level II and III Certified Aesthetic Consultant, utilizing knowledge and experience to help clients achieve their potential. The Shorrs can be contacted at info@thebestmbs.com.

The Difference Is In The Delivery Actual unaltered images showing result after subject’s usage of complete Clinical line. Results may vary.

Stop by Booth 147 and try LIPS, AKA The Kisser Fixer The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach Now Available in Back Bar & Retail

BEFORE

AFTER

seshaskin.com

(888) 977-3742 SEPTEMBER 2016

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Use code KISSER to get $10 off your first order of Lips online at www.ToGoSpa.com

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A Revolutionary Skincare System

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VIS

US AT IT

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SEPTEMBER 2016

estheticians are a girl’s best friend

Diane Buccola, a California licensed esthetician, NCEA Certified, owner of SpaBizBoard.com and member of LNE & Spa Advisory Board, recently revised her popular book, “Estheticians are a Girl’s Best Friend”, to include important updated information for the public. Women in particular are targeted by ad campaigns that promote one-size-fits-all “miracle” products and treatments. Unfortunately, they may not be aware that the best source of personalized skin care advice, customized services and professional products is a well-trained esthetician. This book provides consumers with information to help guide them on their journey to good skin health and youthful aging.

916.765.SKIN (7546) happyesthetician.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

brand ambassador extraordinaire

global wellness as a way of life

Performance Health today announced its commitment to the wellness industry through its sponsorship of the Global Wellness Summit (GWS), an annual event that attracts international leaders and visionaries taking place in Kitzbuhel, Tryol, Austria from October 17-19, 2016. The 10th anniversary conference’s theme is “Back to the Future,” and the agenda will examine the future of spa and wellness through the lens of history against the backdrop of the Alpine scenery in a location well known for its wellness tourism leadership.

SEPTEMBER 2016

800.726.4202 satinsmooth.com

800.321.2135 performancehealth.com

great state appointment

Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner has been appointed by the New York Secretary of State to Chairperson to the Appearance Enhancement Advisory Board. D’Allaird-Brenner is the owner of the Aesthetic Science Institute in Latham, N.Y. She has more than 25 years of experience as a practitioner, educator, author and international speaker. The appointment to the board as Chairperson opens up a new opportunity for professionals, educators and business owners to share thoughts, concerns and ideas with the New York Department Of State.

516.786.0760 aestheticscienceinstitute.edu

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 66

Satin Smooth and Kelley Baker of Kelley Baker Brows will team up to create “Brows That Wow,” with Satin Smooth’s Italian-made waxes and accessories for the ultimate waxing experience. Baker is the quintessential California girl, a celebrity makeup and arch artist with a reputation for shaping brows to absolute, eye-framing perfection. Baker brings a fresh approach to brow shaping, making her a natural choice as Satin Smooth’s Brand Ambassador.

LNeonline.com

The Ins and Outs of Skin Care Peels

by Diane Buccola

A glow may be hard to describe, but it is instantly noticeable and always welcomed by clients. Hallmarks of glowing skin include color that is even in pigmentation, and texture that is smooth and refined. Chemical exfoliation is an effective tool for creating great-looking skin. A peel can refresh the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface by removing dead cells, reducing hyperpigmentation and diminishing the appearance of fine lines.

SEPTEMBER 2016

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SEPTEMBER 2016

PEELS GUIDE

ealthy skin renews itself approximately every 28 days as the old, dead cells in the top layer of skin (known as the stratum corneum) are pushed away by the newer cells as they make their way to the top. Normal aging and UV exposure slows down the skin renewal process which can lead to the unflattering accumulation of dead skin cells that ultimately dulls the complexion. The majority of skin types can benefit from a peel, which maximizes the cell turnover process and stimulates the formation of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

What is a Chemical Peel? Chemical exfoliation, aka peels, is a process that involves a controlled injury to the skin’s natural protective barrier. The acids used in a peel force the skin to shed dead cells, revealing a new skin layer with improved tone, texture and color. Removal of the outer layer of dead and dull cells also makes daily skin care routines more effective, such as allowing serums to penetrate properly.

Consultation

Fitzpatrick Skin Type Classification

To increase the likelihood of a successful and safe treatment, a detailed skin analysis is crucial preceding a chemical peel of any kind. Ingredients play a key role in the effectiveness of the procedure as well as depth that the peel penetrates the skin. A successful peel balances strength and intensity with “just enough” in terms of technique, amount of product applied and length of time on the skin. For the most effective treatment, all variables must be considered including the current condition of the client’s skin as well as elements of their lifestyle, medical history, etc. It is also very important that the client understands what a peel will and won’t do. The Fitzpatrick Skin Type classification is a great tool to help determine the best peel choice for a client.

• AHAs and BHAs generally work with all Fitzpatrick types with normal and healthy skin; however, this depends upon the strength of the peel, as well as other acids used in the treatment.

SEPTEMBER 2016

• Recent use of Retin-A or Accutane. • Recent cosmetic procedures such as injectables or surgery. • Recent facial hair removal procedures.

• Depending on the strength of the peel, Jessner’s formulas generally work for Fitzpatrick types I-III. • Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) is indicated for all Fitzpatrick skin types; however, percentages above 20 percent should be reserved for Fitzpatrick types I-III.

Contraindications Despite its many benefits, there are certain circumstances when acid skin peeling is not recommended, including, but not limited to:

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• Inflamed skin, such as eczema, cold sores, open wounds or scratches. • The client is pregnant or lactating. • Recent sun exposure or tanning bed use.

Review our article on pre- and postpeel considerations in "Before and After Peels: The Dos and Don’ts of Peel Care" on page 88.

PEELS GUIDE

It is important to understand that the word “peel” is an umbrella term encompassing varying levels of exfoliation. The goal of peels is to maximize cellular turnover in order to improve texture and appearance; and the success of a peel depends upon the esthetician’s knowledge, quality of ingredients used and client compliance. Peels are measured by depth of penetration, and it is important for the esthetician to guide the client to the most appropriate peel according to their skin condition and personal goals. To do that, it is essential to understand the differences between the various peel options.

Types Of Peels Very superficial

*This is more of an exfoliation than a true “peel”. Depth: Removes or thins superficial layers of the stratum corneum Practitioner: Licensed esthetician

Superficial

Depth: Removes skin through a portion or all of the epidermal layer Practitioner: Licensed esthetician

Medium

Depth: Penetrates all layers of the epidermis reaching to the papillary dermis Practitioner: Medical setting

Deep

Depth: Reaches the reticular dermis and removes the epidermis and the papillary dermis Practitioner: Physicians only

FRUIT ENZYMES The most well-known of these enzyme exfoliators are naturally derived from pineapple (bromelain) and papaya (papain); although other fruit enzymes such

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PEELS GUIDE

as pumpkin are gaining in popularity. Exfoliating enzymes remove the dry superficial, dull skin cells (corneocytes) by digesting the proteins of the stratum corneum into smaller fragments, thereby preventing a build-up. Enzymes can work more gently than AHAs because they are not activated by pH level, so their exfoliation power is limited.

Acids The most commonly used exfoliating acids are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA), Jessner’s solution, and a variety of blended acid peels.

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS AHAs are among the more gentle exfoliating agents and include glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, citric, and mandelic acids. AHAs are naturally occurring carboxylic acids found in many foods such as cane sugar (glycolic), milk (lactic), apples (malic), grapes (tartaric), citrus (citric), and bitter almonds (mandelic).

Glycolic This acid has a smaller molecular structure, which allows for deeper penetration and can result in higher instances of inflammation. Glycolic is known for its de-greasing properties, which makes it appropriate for oily and acneic skin. It is also known for reducing hyperpigmentation and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles.

BETA HYDROXY ACIDS Another group of topically used carboxylic acids, BHAs suit all skin types, as the analgesic action of the BHA compound reduces inflammation and limits irritation. These types of peels are oil soluble and stimulate skin cells’ metabolism under the surface. It is beneficial for all skin types, and because of its anti-inflammatory properties, it is suitable for sensitive skin conditions.

Salicylic acid

Lactic Lactic acid’s comparatively larger molecule allows it to penetrate into the skin more slowly, thereby reducing the potential for inflammation. Lactic acid is a humectant, which makes it inherently hydrating, and has been shown to provide antimicrobial benefits as well as inhibiting melanin production. 72

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Derived from willow bark, wintergreen leaves and sweet birch, salicylic acid's lipophilicity allows it to penetrate through impactions and into sebumfilled follicles, making it effective for acneic skin. Because of its anti-inflammatory properties, it is suitable for sensitive skin conditions. *Avoid salicylic acid on clients with sensitivity to aspirin.

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BLENDED ACID CHEMICAL PEELS Besides exfoliation and other ancillary benefits of conventional acid peels, chemical peels that have been blended offer much less risk of inflammation. There are a variety of combinations that are beneficial for treating many skin conditions and are appropriate for all Fitzpatrick skin types. Blended peels typically offer a combination of acids including melanin inhibitors, hydrating agents, as well as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients. These additional ingredients typically target specific skin concerns, such as acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation and visible aging.

PEELS GUIDE

Jessner Jessner peels utilize a blend of peeling agents that have differing mechanisms of action. The combination of 14 percent lactic acid, 14 percent salicylic acid, and 14 percent resorcinol has been shown to be effective in the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation and visible aging.

TRICHLOROACETIC ACID (TCA) Among the most widely used acids in skin care, TCA can be used in various percentages to provide a variety of peel depths. TCA is ideal for stimulating collagen production and improving textural inconsistencies, including wrinkling and scarring. The exfoliation provided is also known to lighten hyperpigmentation.

PROTOCOL Peel protocols vary dramatically according to manufacturer, ingredient and depth. It is essential to follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. For example, some peels are applied as one layer and removed after a specific amount of time. Some are applied in multiple layers with a couple of minutes in between layers. Some peels are removed at a certain point in the process and some are self-neutralizing, which means they aren’t removed at all. There are also many ways to apply peel solution. Various tools can be used, depending upon the esthetician’s preference and/or manufacturers’ guidelines. Gauze, fan brushes and peel applicators are some of the tools that are often used. Peels that are to be removed may be done so with water, or can first be "neutralized" to stop the peel activity before removal by way of a specific neutralizing product, or a solution can be made with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Again, always refer to the manufacturers’ instructions.

Always consult your state’s rules and regulations before administering a peel. To ensure your client’s health and safety, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure you have proper liability insurance so you are protected financially if something goes wrong.

BODY PEELS The face is dense in stem cells which can make deep peels an option. If a client requests a peel treatment on back, hands, arms, feet, legs and neck, avoid deep peels, and tailor the treatment to the specific body part. Back: Bacne can be cystic and leave residual red spots. Glycolic acid treats the ensuing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, clears pores and boosts collagen production. Salicylic acid is oilsoluble, and so is helpful for acne anywhere on the body. Hands and arms: Salicylic and lactic peels work well to even out pigmentation from too much sun. Feet: Salicylic acids are known for combating even the driest of skins, and work well with calluses and layers of dead skin.

Diane Buccola has been a licensed esthetician in California since 1998, and is the owner of SpaBizBoard. com, a popular message board and learning tool for the spa industry. Buccola serves on the Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa advisory board, and has authored two books, including "Estheticians Are a Girl’s Best Friend" and "The Heart of Esthetics: Creating Loyal Clients and Achieving Financial Success".

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The Best Peels for Post-Summer Skin Recovery by Dave

Waggoner and Lisa VanBockern

Good-bye summer, hello fall! The long days of summer seemed like they would never end. Unfortunately, all good things do come to an end, and now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to face the consequences of those many leisurely, blissful hours at the beach. The summer months can cause significant damage to your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin because of time spent in the sun, heat, chlorinated pools, lakes and salt water.

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o address this damage, many estheticians use enzymes, chemical peels and mechanical exfoliation for skin rejuvenation at this time of year. However, today’s clients don’t necessarily want or need a deep peel. So in order to treat your clients’ skin without causing trauma or downtime, consider going back to basics, and customize a brightening treatment incorporating an enzyme, light chemical peel and mechanical exfoliation.

FRUIT ENZYME PEELS Enzymes such as papaya/papain are used in skin care to digest dead skin revealing fresh, healthy skin cells. The use of fruit acid enzymes also provides skin with the beneficial effects associated with that fruit. For example, the skin can benefit from the brightening effects of lemon, due to their ascorbic acid. Fruit acids also provide skin with antioxidant protection. Enzymes can be used alone for sensitive skin, clients who have contraindications to chemical peels and for the purpose of softening the skin for easier extractions.

Duration and price: 30 to 70 minutes, based on length of the massage and whether or not extractions are included. Prices range from $39 to $150, depending on duration of service and inclusion of optional factors. Pricing is also based on the practitioner’s experience level and economic climate of the geographic location.

Contraindications Contraindications for pure fruit enzymes are minimal as they are gentle and suitable for most skin types; however take into account any fruit allergies. Some enzymes contain acids such as lactic or glycolic already blended into the formula, and contraindications to this include pregnancy, lactating women, Retin-A or Accutane use.

Protocol Use enzymes within facials once a month to gently exfoliate and brighten the skin for an overall effect of clean, exfoliated, bright and nourished skin with the following protocol. 1. Cleanse skin twice. 2. Apply enzyme for 7-10 minutes (optional steam). 3. Perform extractions (optional). 4. Apply treatment serums. 5. Massage skin. 6. Apply nourishing mask. 7. Add moisturizer and SPF.

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The use of fruid acid enzymes also provides skin with the beneficial effects of that fruit.

PEELS GUIDE

CHEMICAL PEELS Chemical peels are the most effective option, delivering lighteners deeper into the skin. Peel options may include trichloroacetic acid (TCA), Jessner’s solution or a blend of alpha and/or betahydroxy acids, including glycolic, lactic, mandelic and salicylic acid. Choosing the right type of chemical peel for each skin type is critical to achieving desired results. • TCA and Jessner’s solutions are normally used for resilient skin, where moderate to aggressive peeling is desired to address keratinized, sun-damaged skin. • Lactic and mandelic acid are more hydrating to the skin. They are still chemi-

cal peels that dry the surface of the skin, and the client experiences microscopic peeling. The overall effect is hydrating and brightening.

Week 6: Glycolic peel with light me-

• Glycolic acid is the most effective at dissolving desmosomes (the bonds that hold skin cells together) to gently exfoliate keratinized skin. Aging causes the natural shedding of skin to slow, and a dull complexion to surface. Glycolic acid helps shed skin cells quickly to reveal a fresh, healthy skin tone.

Some may think this protocol is too aggressive on a weekly basis, but when mild, gentle peels are used more frequently, the treatments are stacked and address the pigmentation issues on this frequent basis, rather than a more aggressive treatment once a month. Of course, the preferred method is dependent upon the esthetician’s philosophy and the client’s lifestyle.

All peels come in various strengths and pH levels. Choose a lower strength of each type of peel and treat more frequently. Many peels on the market also include tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic, arbutin and azelaic acid to slow melanin production while the peel gently exfoliates the skin. The lower pH of a peel allows for the delivery of natural lighteners deeper in the skin, yet provide gentle exfoliation to move the pigment up and off the skin.

Series Protocol TCA and Jessner’s peels are normally spaced one month apart, due to their more aggressive nature. The preferred method for most clients is a gentle progressive series of six.

Week 1: Consultation, photo-docu-

mentation, consents. Perform enzyme treatment or lactic peel. Week 2: Lactic peel. Week 3: Lactic peel with light mechanical exfoliation such as microdermabrasion. Week 4: Glycolic peel. Week 5: Glycolic peel with light mechanical exfoliation such as microdermabrasion.

chanical exfoliation such as microdermabrasion (Jessner’s or TCA combination is also optional in week 6).

Treatment Protocol Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for application of each type of peel. Treatment duration and price: 20-30 minutes. Chemical peels are shorter in time due to the fact that they are more corrective and extractions, massage and nourishing masks are not performed. Prices range from $39 to $250, depending on the type of peel. Pricing also varies based on the experience level and economic climate of the geographic region.

CONTRAINDICATION CONSIDERATIONS The following are just a few of the contraindications to chemical peels. Attend a complete chemical peel training before applying peels to learn about all the contraindications. 1. Sun exposure. 2. Pregnant or lactating women. 3. Prescription drugs such as antibiotics. 4. Accutane or Retin-A use. 5. Illnesses, such as diabetes and cancer. 6. Fitzpatrick skin types must also be considered to avoid post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

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MECHANICAL EXFOLIATION PEELS Mechanical exfoliation, such as microdermabrasion, dermablading, dermafiles and scrubs polish the surface of the skin and are very effective at removing the keratinized corneocytes at the surface of the skin, but they do not address pigmentation in the lower levels of the epidermis. The overall effect is soft, polished skin.

Protocol Perform the following mechanical exfoliation every four to six weeks. 1. Cleanse twice. 2. Degrease the skin. 3. Perform three passes with mechanical exfoliation. 4. Add moisturizer and SPF. Treatment duration and price: 20-30 minutes. Prices range from $125 to $225 depending on length of service and options included. Pricing is dependent upon experience level of the practitioner and the economic climate of the geographic location.

Customization for each client One protocol can be applied to 20 different clients and produce 20 different results. While all of the aforementioned exfoliation methods work well, consider customizing treatments for your clients. Aside from pigmentation, many clients have various levels of acne or want to address aging concerns. For most clients, recommend the series of six treatments, spaced one to two weeks apart for best results. The following is an example of a typical protocol: 1. Cleanse twice. 2. Place a fruit acid enzyme in a dish and boost it with a chemical peel. Use lactic or mandelic for dry, mature, pig-

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mented skin, glycolic for keratinized skin and salicylic for oily skin. Advise your client that you are adding a peel boost to their treatment, and their skin may be flaky for three to four days. The overall effect is a “power facial”. 3. Light mechanical exfoliation. 4. Extractions (as everyone wants clean pores). 5. Apply treatment serum (may be applied either before or after the nourishing mask). 6. Apply a nourishing mask. 7. Apply moisturizer and SPF. When you perform a thorough skin analysis and choose the correct enzyme and peel for each client, you achieve the best results to address each of your client’s concerns.

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WHICH ORDER OF EXFOLIATION DO YOU CHOOSE? Enzyme/Peel 1st, Mechanical Exfoliation 2nd: • Enzyme and/or peel softens stratum corneum first. • Mechanical exfoliates more surface skin. End result: More polished, softer skin. Effective at removing surface of skin. Types of skin conditions: Closed comedones (remove surface so trapped oil can escape). Rough, dry skin.

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PEELS GUIDE

Mechanical Exfoliation 1st, Enzyme/Peel 2nd: • Mechanical exfoliates surface of the skin. • Enzyme/peel penetrates further into the skin. End result: Better penetration of the peel, deeper into the skin to the melanocyte, more flaking. Types of skin conditions: Pigmentation where you need to deliver skin lighteners, texture issues where you want the end result to be a lot of peeling. Enzyme 1st, Mechanical Exfoliation 2nd, Peel 3rd: • Enzyme softens stratum corneum. • Mechanical buffs or polishes skin for further penetration of peel. • Peel penetrates further into the skin.

After completing a treatment series, stop and evaluate the results. Is the client happy with the results of the series of six? If not, add two to four additional weeks to the protocol. After the end result is achieved, put your client into maintenance mode and perform a monthly facial to keep their skin looking its best.

Contraindications Contraindications to consider for microdermabrasion include pregnancy, lactating women, and Retin-A or Accutane use. There are many great products on the market for addressing pigmentation issues. Look for antioxidants, ty-

End Result: Ultimate penetration of the peel, deeper into the skin for acne and pigment. Types of skin conditions: Resilient skin, acne and pigmentation, texture issues in which the end result must be peeling.

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rosinase inhibitors such as kojic, arbutin, azelaic acid with pH levels low enough to allow the ingredients to penetrate. Perform treatments consistently and frequently to achieve the best results, and emphasize the importance of home care to your clients as well.

Lisa VanBockern is the owner and founder of Skin Script Skin Care, specializing in corrective fruit acid enzymes. She can be reached at lisa@skinscriptrx.com. Dave Waggoner is the director of education and public relations for Skin Script Skin Care. He can be reached at education@skinscriptrx.com.

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Customized

How to Choose the Right Peel Combination for Your Client’s Skin by Elizabeth A. Cardarelli Twenty-five years ago, peel clients had only two choices: either a 2 percent lactic or a full phenol peel. Today, there is an abundant variety of distinctions among peels with different depths and ingredient combinations (see our article “Mastering Peels: The Ins and Outs of Skin Care Peels” on page 68). As with many skin care treatments, it is essential to customize your clients’ peels to establish yourself as being in a league of your own in terms of your expertise.

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The Consultation Providing the perfect customized plan for your client requires listening carefully to them to determine their specific skin concerns. Fitzpatrick classification is another key consideration, as well as several possible contraindications. In addition to these factors and a thorough consultation based on current skin conditions and medical history (see “Before and After Peels: The Dos and Don’ts of Skin Care” on page 88), gather the following information from each client to create a treatment plan designed specifically for them:

1. Expectations What are the client’s expectations? Are they consistent with the result of the selected treatment? For example, a glycolic peel is not going to change the skin as fast as a stronger TCA peel. Make sure the client understands what results to expect based on the treatment plan selected from the beginning.

2. Time commitment Many clients’ lives do not permit much downtime following a peel treatment. This is a pertinent factor to consider when committing to a treatment plan. If downtime is not a problem for a client, you can present them with a different set of options.

3. Client budget This is difficult for many practitioners to discuss with the client; however, it is essential to be upfront about the financial considerations of each treatment and overall plan. There is a wide range of treatments starting from a one-layer peel to multi-level peels combined with other modalities such as dermaplaning and microdermabrasion. The price range can be significant. If the client is treated to a case of “sticker shock” at the front desk after their treatment,

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you will never see them again. Integrity and ethics is always the number one consideration in any well-devised plan. Now you are equipped to create your client’s customized treatment plan! The next factors to take into consideration are skin types and conditions.

Acne, acne prone, oily, combination Glycolic peels are highly effective for these skin types. Glycolic is used to improve the skin’s appearance, tone and texture while addressing wrinkles, scarring and hyperpigmentation. It can also improve skin conditions such as actinic and seborrheic keratosis. The glycolic reacts with the epidermis, weakening the lipids to remove the dead skin cells, creating a clean, polished, firm

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complexion. The potency of the glycolic acid is determined by its solution strength (20-70 percent) and pH of the glycolic solution. Consider the following peel options for these skin types, starting from a beginners’ treatment and working up to creating advanced, designer peels: Level 1: Bromelain and glycolic This signature peel is a highly effective starting point in a peel series, or for a new client. Cleanse, de-grease and apply a thin layer of bromelain to entire face and neck. Allow to stand for five to 20 minutes (depending on sensation factor and irritation level of client’s skin). Rinse off with H2O or neutralize it with a bicarbonate. Then apply two

PEELS GUIDE

passes of 20 percent glycolic solution to face and neck (carefully avoiding eyes). The client will feel a significant sensation lasting between 30 seconds and three minutes before neutralizing. Level 2: Glycolic and salicylic Start out with a 20 percent glycolic solution on the forehead to ensure the client feels comfortable. It is normal to feel tingling for the first minute. Once you neutralize it they will feel the sensation again but only for a second. Work your way up the glycolic acid chain with each visit, as high as 70 percent. Spot treat areas with salicylic acid of 10-30 percent to banish blemishes. This causes the cells of the epidermis to shed rapidly, releasing clogged pores and neutralizing bacteria. It penetrates and dehydrates the cell wall, allowing for immediate transformation of a breakout or a blemish, also calming the inflammation and constricting pore size to correct and prevent build-up and breakouts. It is important to apply one stroke of salicylic acid and let it stand for two to three minutes before adding another. Salicylic acid is self-neutralizing

and needs to stand for a few minutes before determining how strong it will be for the client. Keep layering until skin has a slightly white opacity to it. If the skin starts to frost or crystallize, stop and allow it to calm completely. The skin will likely peel in the areas where frosting is visible. Salicylic can also be used in a more advanced peel for sun damage, discoloration and pigment issues. Price estimate: Six treatments every two weeks, $175 to $225 per treatment.

Normal, dry, damaged and aging Level 1: Dermaplane and glycolic Dermaplane is a manual exfoliation of two to three layers of skin, which stimulates the epidermis and allows for better penetration of each level thereafter. Price estimate: Once a month, $150 to $200. Level 2: Dermaplane, microdermabrasion, glycolic acid and designer peel

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At this level, dermaplaning and microdermabrasion have significantly exfoliated the epidermal skin, leaving it silky smooth, clean and vibrant. Application of the glycolic acid removes about 20 dead layers. Now it is topped off with a designer peel, which could be a combination of salicylic, TCA, azelaic, malic and/or retinol. Price estimate: Once a month, $175 to $225. Level 3: Dermaplane, microdermabrasion, glycolic, designer peel and lactic acid (30-50%) You have now established a great foundation of continued exfoliation and deep cleaning while addressing hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles and skin laxity. Lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid derived from sour milk, is often called the “beginner” peel because the lactic is gentle yet effective with few side effects. With a 30-50 percent

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lactic peel, clients may experience a significant tingling sensation. Neutralize after one to three minutes. Price estimate: Once a month, $200 to $450. Sensitive and rosacea or Fitzpatrick 1, 2 , 5, 6 The very light and darker skin types may need more time to become acclimated to treatments. Fitzpatrick types 1 and 2 normally become more reactive, but heal very fast too. Fitzpatrick types 5 and 6 can also be very sensitive and slow to heal due to advanced melanin production. For this client, a bromelain and a lactic combination is just as effective as the above combinations. Allow time before working up to higher strengths. A 2 percent lactic peel is a good place to start, eventually moving up to a 10 percent glycolic peel. This peel can also be used to spot treat a breakout or hyperpigmentation.

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Price estimate: Once a month, $175 to $200. Customized peel treatments can be combined with dermaplaning, microdermabrasion and many other modalities. While you should always refer and adhere to manufacturer instructions and guidelines, don't follow the same standard peel each time. Create a customized experience for your client that leaves them radiant and shows them that your work — just like their skin — is one of a kind!

Elizabeth A. Cardarelli is the founder and CEO of Avery Graham. She pioneered the field of medical aesthetics 25 years ago with top plastic surgeons and dermatologists to educate, inspire and serve as a trusted personal navigator to help clients become the best version of themselves. With integrity, intent and a focus on the perfect combination of wellness, science and nature, Cardarelli continues to lead the pack as a worthy trailblazer.

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BEFORE and AFTER

Peels

The Dos and Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ts of Peel Care by Janel Luu

As years pass, skin becomes more vulnerable to environmental aggressors that accelerate signs of aging. The solution? Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels. Using acids to dissolve dead skin cells helps minimize lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, age spots, uneven tone, large pores, acne and more. As an added bonus, peels help skin absorb active ingredients that target specific skin care concerns.

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PRE-PEEL PROTOCOL Peel treatments begin with the initial skin assessment, and continue one to three weeks before the procedure, in the form of pre-treatment home care. Pre-peel regimens for the face and body are similar, with the goal of strengthening skin, minimizing sensitivity, reducing the chance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and providing a clear surface for treating specific skin conditions. Whether the targeted areas are above the neck or below, consistent pre-peel home care makes a substantial difference in the client's results.

Treatment Room Pre- Peel: Dos 1. Perform a detailed skin analysis. Discuss the client's expectations, possible reactions and use of sun protection. 2. Have client sign a consent document. This document includes acknowledgement of post-peel symptoms (erythema, burning, itching, tightness, minor swelling, peeling) and possible complications (peri-oral dermatitis, acne flare-ups, herpes simplex flare-ups, hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation). 3. Review client's medical history, including skin reactions. History of atopic skin reactions, eczema, rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis and other sensitivities should be approached with extreme caution. 4. Take into account skin type and color. Clients with sensitive skin may not tolerate higher percentages of peel treatments. Clients with darker complexions may be prone to hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation. 5. Use peels with a pH of 3.0 or higher. 6. Distinguish buffered from unbuffered acids. Buffering and un-buffering refer to an acidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to hold a constant value of pH. Unbuffered acids

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may blanch skin in thin areas, causing a longer downtime for the client following the treatment. Buffered acids allow the maximum level of acid to be utilized while controlling pH, enable multiple acids within a blend and minimize unfavorable results. 7. Provide a detailed pre-peel home care regimen. Explain the importance of nightly compliance for one to three weeks before the first session to ensure the best results. 8. A pre-peel regimen for the face includes cleansing, followed by application of an exfoliating solution that contains alpha hydroxy acids at 2-5% strength. Skin is then thoroughly rinsed, and the regimen concludes with the application of a mineral-rich hydrating toner and moisturizing cream. 9. A pre-peel regimen for the body is similar to the pre-peel regimen for the face, but since the skin on legs, arms and back is less sensitive than the face, neck, and décolleté, the exfoliating solution or moisturizing cream may contain AHA at 5-15%, depending on skin type.

Treatment Room Pre- Peel: Don'ts

4. Don’t use peels on clients who are pregnant or lactating. 5. Don't use peels on clients who have herpes or conditions with open cuts or sores.

Client Home Care Pre- Peel: Dos 1. Pre-peel home care for face, neck and décolleté begins one to three weeks prior to first peel treatment. Every night, cleanse thoroughly. Apply an exfoliating solution with AHA at 2-5% strength. Thoroughly rinse skin, and finish by applying a nutrient-rich hydrating toner and moisturizing cream. 2. A pre-peel regimen for the body is similar to the pre-peel regimen for the face, but since the skin on the legs, arms and back is less sensitive than the face, neck and décolleté, the exfoliating solution or moisturizing cream may contain AHA at 5-15%.

Client Home Care Pre- Peel: Don'ts 1. Don’t use Accutane or other topical retinoids such as Retin-A. 2. For the face and body, don’t use exfoliating products that may irritate skin. Avoid loofah, massaging brushes and microdermabrasion tools. 3. Don’t do treatments that stress skin on the face or body. Avoid microdermabrasion, non-ablative laser, light therapy, ablative laser, tanning beds, waxing, electrolysis and depilatories.

POST-PEEL PROTOCOL Post-peel care begins immediately following the peel and is essential in diminishing discomfort, accelerating recovery and maximizing benefits. Clients’ post-treatment action is as important as the peel itself. Compliance with post-peel home care generates the very best results. Post-care prod-

1. Don’t overlook client allergies. Allergies indicate how skin may react to ingredients in peels. If the client is allergic to any ingredients, don’t perform the treatment. 2. Don’t use face or body peels on clients taking certain medications. Clients on Accutane (isotretinoin), anticoagulants, immune suppressing agents or topical retinoids such as tretinoin shouldn’t use acid peels due to unpredictable reactions. 3. Don’t use peels on clients with certain lifestyle habits. Clients using tobacco or illegal substances heal more slowly.

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ucts should keep skin hydrated, reduce inflammation, restore balance and provide growth factors to speed healing.

Treatment Room Post- Peel: Dos 1. Post-peel treatment for face and body should include a fragrance-free cleanser and a mineral-enriched toner to keep skin calm and hydrated. Include serums with hyaluronic acid to replenish moisture, and epidermal growth factor (EGF or TGF) to accelerate healing. Lipid serums are advised in order to replace lost lipids and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). 2. Provide a detailed, post-peel home care regimen for face and body, which includes a gentle cleanser, mineral-rich recovery solution, growth factor serum, and moisturizing serum or cream to calm facial skin and reduce redness. Post-care after a body peel can include a body moisturizer with AHA at 5-15% for daily maintenance. 3. Remind client of post-peel symptoms. Possible erythema, burning, 92

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itching, tightness, minor swelling or peeling of the skin should gradually diminish within a week. Advise client to seek medical attention immediately if symptoms persist. 4. Carefully examine results. Slight redness, light peeling, minimal discomfort and a healing time of three to five days are signs of positive results. If skin does not respond to the peel, the client may tolerate a slightly increased time of exposure.

Treatment Room Post- Peel: Don'ts 1. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t schedule a second face or body peel if healing is slower than expected. If extreme redness, heavy peeling, blistering, scabbing, extended healing time or pigmentation changes occur, allow for healing before another treatment, with a decreased exposure time and solution strength. 2. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t repeat peel treatments on clients who have unresolved changes in pigmentation or unhealed areas.

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Client Home Care Post- Peel: Dos 1. After face or body peel, monitor skin regularly. Take notes regarding the appearance of skin during the healing period. 2. Start post-peel home care immediately after treatment. Help the skin heal itself. Follow post-care regimen every morning and evening for three to four days to rebalance, rehydrate and restore skin. Post-care for a body peel can include a body moisturizer with AHA at 5-15% for daily maintenance. 3. Use mineral spray to help decrease discomfort if skin is inflamed. If irritation persists, consult a physician.

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PEELS GUIDE 4. After Day 3 of post-treatment regimen, return to pre-peel regimen. 5. Use an antioxidant-packed moisturizer. Vitamins C and E help reduce oxidative damage after skin trauma, and are excellent ingredients to help reduce the chances of post-peel discoloration. 6. Apply sun protection with an SPF of at least 30 every morning. Limit time outdoors. Since UVA and UVB rays can damage skin even on overcast days, wear a wide-brimmed hat and protective clothing.

Client Home Care Post- Peel: Don'ts 1. After a facial peel, don’t use products with potentially irritating ingredients. Products with alpha hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, retinoids or abrasives may interfere with healing. After a body peel, a body moisturizer with AHA at 5-15% helps refine texture for

daily maintenance since the skin on the arms, legs and back is more resistant. 2. Don’t scratch or pick. As skin heals, it naturally sheds flaky, dead cells. Scarring, discoloration and new irritation may occur if flaky skin is pulled off before it's ready. 3. Don't apply makeup. Hiding the signs of red, irritated skin by using a tinted foundation might be tempting, but wearing makeup slows down the healing process.

THE POPULARITY AND POWER OF PEELS

Peels are increasingly utilized in facial treatments for many reasons. First, peels are relatively inexpensive in the esthetics world. Second, peels offer multiple choices for treating client concerns and skin types. Third, peels boast

a safety record when used appropriately. Finally, peels allow the client a certain amount of power in maximizing results, as up to 90 percent of the success of the treatment is due to compliance with pre- and post-peel home care! With peels, clients partner with the esthetician, playing an integral role in the outcome of their own treatment.

Janel Luu is the founder and CEO of Le Mieux Cosmetics and PurErb™ Herbology-based Skincare & Aromatherapy. She has more than 35 years of experience in the beauty industry as an educator, researcher and formulator. An expert on topics ranging from anti-aging cellular technology to centuries-old Meridian techniques, Luu has taught more than 36,000 skin care professionals.

Strobing,�Baking,�Buffing,�Carving....

Time�to�talk Coming next month an exclusive Makeup Guide

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Ellen Lange

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WELL-BEING IN THE SPA

Treatments, Workshops and Lectures to Add Sexual Education in Your Spa by Caroline Canetti

The words "sex" and "spa" are not usually said in the same

sentence. And, it's been for a good reason â&#x20AC;&#x201D; no one wants to be associated with those neon-lit massage parlors with the secret back entrances that offer "happy endings". Today, however, a rising number of progressive spa owners are taking on the once taboo topic of sex with their clients as they add treatments, workshops and lectures geared toward sexual well-being to their offerings.

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SEXUAL WELL-BEING IN THE SPA

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Mixed and oily skin / sebaceous cysts

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Regeneration of tissue

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After the ﬁrst treatment

Wrinkle formation

After the third treatment

Aging & sun damaged skin / skin laxity

Skin with poor circulation / pale skin

Scars

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SEXUAL WELL-BEING IN THE SPA

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during THE TRICK TO BOOSTING SKIN VOLUME AND COMPLEXION by Judith Bourgeois

he benefits of facial massage reach far beyond the skin. In addition to improving circulation, skin tone and radiance and reducing muscle tightness, wrinkles and toxins, a 10 to 20-minute facial massage helps balance your clients from the inside out, and allows their true beauty to shine.

IMPACTS THE WHOLE BODY Every part of the body responds to a facial massage. You are probably familiar with the reflexology points located on the hands and feet, but there are also many pressure points on the face! In Ayurveda, for example, 108 marma points are recognized on the body, 37 of which are located on the head, face, neck and upper chest. These energy points can be stimulated by almost any kind of touch. A good facial massage activates many of them, and thus has the potential to positively impact every organ and bodily system.

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customize by skin type The massage oil used on your clients can be customized based on their Ayurvedic skin type:

Vata skin is dry, very thin and cool to the touch. This skin craves a rich, warming and slightly stimulating massage oil.

or example, stimulating and gently massaging the points around the eye orbit not only livens up the eyes, smooths out fine lines, and moves lymphatic waste away to help clear puffiness and dark circles, it also positively impacts the kidneys, liver and stomach. Another example would be the master glands (pineal, pituitary) located on the forehead and scalp. Gently massaging and stimulating corresponding marma points directly affects and balances hormone levels in the whole body.

PURIFIES AND SUPPORTS IMMUNITY Facial massage reduces puffiness and speeds the removal of waste products by boosting circulation (blood and lymph) AND bringing more nutrients, oxygen and immune factors to the skin for a healthy glow. Unlike blood circulation, the lymph fluid needs muscle movement to circulate throughout the body to prevent sluggishness and toxic buildup. There are many lymph nodes on the face, specifically along the jawline and the edge of the chin, which greatly benefit from facial massage. Stimulating the lymphatic system along with marma points can also help with sinus congestion. A good massage helps to relieve any congestion by improving drainage and mobilizing secretions, reducing the pressure that so often results in headaches. On a broader level, as the different marma or pressure points get stimulated during massage, toxins and congestion from corresponding organs also start gently clearing away, increasing immunity.

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Pitta skin is the category that the vast majority of people in North America fall into. Pitta skin is normal, sensitive or combination skin (either dry with a normal T-zone or normal with an oily T-zone). To bring Pitta skin into balance, the massage oil needs to be cooling, soothing and have adaptable moisturizing properties to address combination skin.

Kapha skin is thicker, more prone to oiliness and has a tendency toward water retention and congestion. This skin type can greatly benefit from an oil with astringent, sebum-balancing, warming and stimulating qualities.

REDUCES STRESS

PROMOTES HARMONY

By relaxing tense muscles, massage reduces the levels of stress hormones that result from muscle tension, immediately benefiting the circulation, blood pressure, heart rate, energy and adding a sense of harmony and contentment. Because facial massage is pleasurable, it increases the level of endorphins, making one both feel and look better. The face, back of the neck, and ears are extremely sensitive to touch. They contain an abundance of nerves that feel wonderful when touched and have the power to better release tension throughout the entire body. Head massage, which is an essential part of a holistic facial, dramatically calms the nervous system and brings subtle nourishment to the brain. Working on specific marma points (center of forehead, temples, occipital ridge at the back of the skull) can also reduce and even eliminate headaches and migraines.

The caring attention clients receive during a facial massage encourages emotional release and boosts self-esteem, making them feel nurtured, loved and lovable. By massaging the head, face, neck and upper chest, communication and energetic exchange between the head and the heart is improved. When these two work in unison, an individual truly feels his or her best.

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BALANCES BODY AND MIND Ayurveda is an ancient, natural system of healing based on a comprehensive view of the laws of nature and theory of the five elements (space, air, fire, water and earth). When these elements combine they create three governing principles, or doshas (called Vata, Pitta and Kapha), which must be kept in proper balance in order for one to remain healthy. These principles apply as much to the body as they do to the mind.

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From an Ayurvedic perspective, facial massage assists in bringing balance to some specific aspect of the doshas. One of these aspects is called Bhrajaka Pitta, and is related to the fire element in the body and located in the skin. It regulates both complexion and skin glow. Another aspect that benefits from facial massage is Vyana Vata, made up of air and space elements. Vyana Vata governs the various forms of circulation in the body from neural information, flow of blood, lymph and circulation within the digestive system to more subtle forms of circulation such as thoughts, emotions and life force. Probably the most intangible aspect and yet so very important to the quality of life is Prana Vata, also made up of mostly space and air element. Prana Vata is located in the head, brain and nervous system. It is responsible for the manifestation and the expansion of consciousness in an individual, clarity of mind and perception. Physically, Prana Vata inputs and governs the movement of information throughout the whole body and enhances the very life force in every cell. The healing touch implicit in a facial massage balances these doshas, bringing greater clarity to both body and mind.

REJUVENATES Facial massage plays a very important part in a holistic anti-aging treatment. By stimulating circulation, more energy, oxygen and nourishment are brought to the target areas, which has a lifting and firming effect. Toxins, impurities and puffiness are also reduced. As tight facial muscles relax and collagen production increases, wrinkles diminish. By helping to normalize the moisture balance in the skin, a good facial massage restores radiance for healthy, younger looking skin. Bringing balance to the skin can start with the facial massage, provided that an oil specifically beneficial to the skin type is being used. ď&#x201A;Ą

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Judith Bourgeois is an Ayurvedic technician and educator for Shankara, an all natural line of facial and body products based on Ayurvedic wisdom and advanced science. She has been developing spa treatments and providing product education for Shankara for more than 12 years.

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ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

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The Clarity Brightening Bar from PurErbTM has a unique formula that contains more than 38 different plant extracts with therapeutic benefits for the face and body, and includes more than 24 brightening and skinlightening herbs. The key ingredient is antioxidant-rich Korean red ginseng, which assists in improving microcirculation, boosts skin firmness and elasticity, and promotes a healthier, brighter complexion.

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LEADING THE WAY

The Penta-C Serum from Niko Cosmetics is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first vitamin C serum consisting of extracts from five superfruits with the top ORAC scores. Using their revolutionary cell wall transfer technique, Niko Cosmetics offers one of the first truly stabilized, super concentrated organic vitamin C serums with superior antioxidant protection.

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The Skin Transformational Peel Trio with Alpine Rose Stem Cells from Nature Pure Labs is a treatment that takes full advantage of the powerful bio-available anti-aging actives in the formulas. Removal of the outer layers enables quick and easy penetration of DNA repairing alpine rose stem cells and other actives deep into the epidermis, optimizing full skin repairing potential. The pre-peel booster and post-peel neutralizer are concentrated with herbs and botanicals.

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RADICALLY RADIANT

The Tomato Face & Body Moisturizer for Exposed Skin from ilike organic skin care shields exposed skin from the sun naturally with an antioxidant-rich moisturizer. It protects skin by boosting its natural UV protection capacity while promoting a healthy glow â&#x20AC;&#x201D; no sun needed!

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

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HOW I ADDED MAKEUP TO MY SPA

Business Advice For Beauty Professionals With

Amy Amaral, owner of Pureskin Aesthetic Salon in Salinas, Calif. Service and Retail What kind of makeup treatments do you offer on the menu? When designing the menu I sought to offer something to fit everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique needs. I offer one-on-one makeup lessons in which clients bring in their makeup bags and I design a customized program for them based on what they already have. I do special occasion application and bridal makeup on location, which has proven to be the most popular.

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How did you choose your makeup line? My philosophy is skin should be healthy and glowing. As an esthetician for 15 years, I try to undo the misunderstanding that makeup is not good for the skin. I did research on my own and found a few lines that I loved, meaning they were good for the skin, could be worn every day and looked natural. I appreciate brands that seamlessly blend skin care and makeup.

clients. They love the results so much, they come back to purchase the products used.

Which makeup services have the most success? Bridal is the clear winner. I have created a partnership with a bridal coordinator and a hair stylist. Together we generate quite a few referrals and word of mouth has been very helpful. On-site application is very popular given the amount of destination weddings in the area that we book.

How profitable are makeup services? Skin care is the most profitable component, but makeup is second. It rings up to be about 40 percent of profits. Makeup is closely tied to the economy and it is doing well now. My philosophy is everyone should wear good makeup.

Makeup Area Describe your makeup area. When did you decide to implement makeup into your spa? A year after I opened for business I had a light bulb moment. More and more of my clients wanted services that used their own makeup, but they were also open to new products. I knew that if I could marry these needs on the menu, I would be able to be of greater service and so I did.

How did you do it? In my research, I started gravitating toward mineral makeup. A representative from a brand I love came in and showed me the best ways to implement it. After every facial, I build in time to apply makeup to freshen up

I took a unique approach to displaying the makeup by arranging it on an antique dresser against the wall. The vibe is that it is a Zen area near the reception desk. Entice clients to the makeup area by making sure it is clean and inviting. Testers should be as fabulous as possible. Displays should be changed out with the seasons and a spa should always be offering something new.

Flying solo — with help Do you work with a team? In my spa, I work alone as of right now. I do all the makeup one-on-one lessons, education and follow-up with

my clients. However if I need help for big events or a promotion, I have a beauty network I call upon for big parties. My freelance team has four members, people who I have worked with over the years. It is nice to have associates and partners to create a glam squad. It is wonderful when likeminded women lift each other up to new professional heights.

Marketing How do you promote your makeup services? The best way to promote makeup services is to always look pulled together. Clients can see products in person and feel comfortable asking questions. I can’t sell something I don’t use. It is key to educate clients about how to use makeup and increase their comfort level. I also do follow-ups to make sure they like the product and answer any questions they may have. On social media, I put the word out using Instagram and Twitter. I also post shots of my unique makeup display area on Instagram and offer product lessons on my social media platforms, which have been very popular. Newsletters are another great way to keep clients updated on the latest happenings and special products.

We want to k how YOU d now id it! Shar

e your in sight on incorporatin g makeup se rvices into your spa with us, and you may be featured in an upcomin g ed ition of Les Nouvelle s Esthétique s & Spa. Simply send an email (5 0 to 100 words) to am anda@LNEo nl ine.com. Together, le t's build a community one word at a time!

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Revamp the nostalgic look for your spa clients by Maureen Castellon The 90s are the perfect example of how a decade can have two juxtaposed, defining makeup looks. Grunge ruled the airwaves and streets despite having underground vibes. One of the top looks was neo-gothic with a heavy dose of punk and an urban edge, as seen in the use of brick red lipstick, dark eye colors and matte foundation. In contrast, the 1990s was also the era of beach babes and an almost cartoonish clash of colors, highlighted by periwinkle eyes and bubble gum frosted lips.

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THE BIG COMEBACK OF 1990S MAKEUP

ith designers increasingly showcasing 90s makeup looks at every Fashion Week, clients are asking to look on point with updated color palettes and techniques.

Eyes Eye makeup for both light and dark 90s styles venture into the waterline on the top and bottom, which will energize your clients’ looks. A cream liner pencil pairs well with powder shadow in the same tone to enhance the inner corners and lids of the eyes. The easiest way to achieve both the light and dark looks is with colored lids. One 90s staple, periwinkle eye shadow, can be updated with hyperpigmented pastels applied to the inner corners of eyes or swept over the lid. When using blue, play with the spectrum from navy to periwinkle and every shade in between. For maximum impact, use a shading brush on the lid and a blending brush on the crease. When adding shimmer to the eyes, keep lips neutral and the skin matte. The desired look of the 90s entailed sleeping in your eye makeup and achieving the smudged look naturally. It focuses solely on the upper lid, while the modern smudged eye includes lower liner, which can contain a bold pop of color. For clients with smaller eyes, be careful not to make the line too thick. Instead, pencil the waterline in white to give the illusion of a larger eye. Round eyes benefit from a drawing from the inner corner to the outer one with a line that’s thicker from the outer edge to the center of the iris.

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Lips Pronounced lip liner is another 90s trend that can be updated. Dark lips, such as plums and berries, can pop with the right framework. Begin by slicking on lip balm or primer. Instead of more saturated colors, consider sheen from balms or lipsticks. Liners should be two shades darker than clients’ natural lip color and lipsticks should be one shade darker than the liner for a more natural look. It is important to note that the shades used should be within the same color family. If a client does not want liner, outline lips with a concealer and brush to create a neutral canvas.

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Avoid black liner on dark lips no matter how deep the shade of plum — coordinate grunge-inspired lipstick and liner to deepen the color instead. The simplest protocol is to apply color, blot, apply color again, then seal blot again with translucent powder. Browns are a modern take on brick red and could go with stain or sheen. Frosted lips now have a refined shimmer and moisturerich improved formulas, which can make lips look fuller and more natural. They can also be layered with opaque hues one shade lighter than the base color.

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THE BIG COMEBACK OF 1990S MAKEUP

Skin

Tips & Tricks

While the emphasis may have been on eyes and lips during the 90s, skin provided the canvas and it was expected to be flawless. Oil was a bad word and it was every makeup artist’s mission to obliterate every drop. The trick to modernizing the matte look is making sure foundation is only one shade lighter than the client’s regular tone. Those leaning toward the au naturel look can achieve an even tone with tinted moisturizer. Avoid the goth-inspired pancake look by moisturizing skin and then adding primer before using foundation. Pressed powder benefits oily skin, but other skin types can forego this 90s staple.

Use sharp, black eyeliner to line eyes right up against the lash line.

Consider using cream liner over liquid for clients.

Pink blush with a hint of shimmer on the apples of cheeks achieves the naturally flushed aesthetic.

Berry lipsticks work on most skin tones, while browns are trickier as they can have an aging effect.

Choose matte skin or lips, but to update the look avoid having both at the same time.

Most clients are doing these trends not for their friends or family, but for their social media followers, whether it be for a special occasion or not, so offer to take a few photos in addition to their selfies.

Graphic eyeliner looks best when it’s not competing with a busy shadow palette. Finish eyeliner with squared-off edges rather than a cat’s eye.

Shimmery lips work best when used as a highlighter, such as the center of the lip, rather than the focus. 

Maureen Castellon is the associate editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and an adjunct writing professor at Miami Dade College. She graduated with honors from the English department at the University of Alabama and now blogs at sirenpublications.com. When not writing about beauty, Castellon can be found meditating on the beach with her German Shepherd.

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Our program integrates aesthetics with para-medical knowledge and prepares aestheticians and nurses to perform advanced and up-to-date skin care techniques. The classes are small and the hands-on is on live models. The program is carried out on scientiﬁc, no non-sense advanced and up-to-date aesthetics knowledge

The program teaches Laser science in depth to certify aestheticians and nurses to practice laser skin techniques safely and precisely. Our classes are small to make sure eash student is capturing the knowledge he/she needs to perform laser procedures and allowing them to achieve their goal in their new career. Our program certiﬁes you as LSO as well.

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CAFFEINATED CURE

The Intense Glow for Eyes Dark Circle Corrector from DeclĂŠor USA aims to provide both instantaneous and long-lasting action on dull, tired eyes. Orange pigments instantly illuminate eyes upon application, while vitamin B3 protects the skin from free radicals. Caffeine, known for its draining and decongesting action and vitamin CG, known for its anti-pigmenting and soothing properties, gradually fade away dark circles. The eye contour appears rested and the eye area appears fresh and bright.

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NATURALLY STRONGER

The DX Micro Mist from Dermaesthetics USA adds moisture before and after makeup application to control oil and allow color cosmetics to go on smoothly and evenly for a seamless finish. A hightech micro-penetration technology allows water to flow into the atomization chip, emitting micro-sized particles that deeply penetrate the skin and allow it to stay hydrated throughout the day.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

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213.545.1266 dermaestheticsusa.com

BIO-TONIC-ALLY CORRECT!

The Perfect Finish Purifying Spray from Lady Burd is a soothing face tonic blended with botanicals to calm and refresh skin for that little bit of extra pampering. The mist contains lavender, aloe, rosemary, turmeric root and willow bark extracts to gently detoxify, hydrate, clarify and refine pores. It is excellent for toning after cleansing, when prepping skin for makeup, skin oils and serums or anytime throughout the day for a refreshing boost.

866.392.4889 ladyburd.com

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Formula 82S Hair Loss Shampoo from Hair Science is designed to prevent hair loss, strengthen hair fibers and provide hair with soft, natural texture. The 100 percent natural formula contains eco-certified cleansers, active ingredient saw palmetto, and a botanically-derived 5-alpha reductase inhibitor that reduces DHT, the primary cause of hair loss. New hair grows stronger and existing hair recovers its vitality due to a highly effective blend of natural extracts, amino acids and vitamins.

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ADVERTISER INDEX

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Page Number 62................. Agera Labs........................................................................ ageralabs.com...........................................................................221 43................. Altair Instruments.............................................................. altairinstruments.com..................................................................243 50................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics............................ beauinstitute.com.......................................................................167 53................. Bella Schneider Beauty..................................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com...........................................................180 6,7................ Bio-Therapeutic................................................................ bio-therapeutic.com....................................................................139 126............... Biomani............................................................................. biomani.com..............................................................................276 113............... Bon Vital........................................................................... bonvital.com...............................................................................265 63................. Booker.............................................................................. hirefrederick.com/lnespa.............................................................154 15................. Bruenefeld International................................................... bruenefeld.us..............................................................................239 114............... Calvet Cosmetics / SilcSkin............................................... silcskin.com................................................................................185 107............... Christine Schrammek........................................................ schrammek.de...........................................................................166 16................. Dahliana............................................................................ dahliana.com..............................................................................175 25................. Decleor............................................................................. decleorusa.com...........................................................................257 109............... DermaSwiss...................................................................... dermaswiss.com........................................................................245 87................. Dermaware....................................................................... dermaware.com.........................................................................256 23................. Dermesse.......................................................................... dermesse.com...........................................................................320 95................. Divi International ............................................................. anesibeaute.com / depileveusa.com.........................................241 117............... Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc............................................... dr-jeff.com..................................................................................248 2,3................ Éminence Organic Skin Care............................................ eminenceorganics.com................................................................157 129............... Equipro USA..................................................................... equipro-bty.com..........................................................................242 31................. EuroSpa Aromatics........................................................... eurospaaromatics.com................................................................150 55................. Glymed Plus...................................................................... glymedplus.com.........................................................................303 37................. Grandelash MD................................................................. grandelashmd.com....................................................................286 38................. Hairscience....................................................................... hairsciencellc.com......................................................................195 52................. Hale Cosmeceuticals........................................................ halecosmeceuticals.com............................................................133 4,5................ Hydrafacial........................................................................ edgeforlife.com...........................................................................201 33,105.......... Infinity Sun........................................................................ infinitysun.com............................................................................118 27................. Int’ Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach.............. longbeach.skincareshows.com 118,119........ Int’ Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami....................... miami.skincareshows.com 131............... Jojoba Company.............................................................. jojobacompany.com....................................................................108 9................... Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics................... ladyburd.com..............................................................................119 108............... LashBomb......................................................................... lashbomb.com............................................................................280 11................. Lira Clinical....................................................................... liraclinical.com...........................................................................203 59................. Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research............................ lucrece.com................................................................................263 132............... Nelly Devuyst / Derme & Co............................................ derme.ca....................................................................................124 17................. Niko Organic.................................................................... niko.com / organikolabs.com.......................................................259 61................. Nouveau Contour............................................................. nouveaucontourusa.com...........................................................186 125............... PFB Vanish........................................................................ pfbvanish.com.............................................................................229 93................. PhotoMedex..................................................................... radiancy.com..............................................................................327 39................. PurErb Skin Care............................................................... purerbskincare.com...................................................................294 81................. Provence Cosmetics......................................................... provencecosmetics.com............................................................335 79................. RapidLash......................................................................... rapidlash.com............................................................................224 40................. RéjuvaSea......................................................................... rejuvasea.com.............................................................................246 127............... Rejuvi Laboratory.............................................................. rejuvilab.com..............................................................................149 44,45............ Repêchage........................................................................ repechage.com...........................................................................196 51................. RevitaLash......................................................................... revitalash.com.............................................................................346 99................. Rhonda Allison.................................................................. rhondaallison.com.....................................................................283 54................. Saian................................................................................. saian.com...................................................................................165 60................. Select Spa Source / Hairaway........................................... selectspa.com............................................................................253 64................. Sesha Skin Therapy........................................................... seshaskin.com............................................................................271 115............... Skin Blends....................................................................... skinblends.com...........................................................................283 24................. Skin for Life....................................................................... skinforlife.com.............................................................................156 19................. Szep Elet / ilike................................................................. szepelet.com..............................................................................274 101............... Tama Research Corporation............................................. tamaresearch.com......................................................................247 65................. TiZo................................................................................... tizofusion.com.............................................................................305 64................. To Go Spa......................................................................... togospa.com..............................................................................285 41................. Vital Assist......................................................................... vitalassist.com............................................................................237 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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