LNE & Spa - October 2016

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LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals October 2016

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from the

editor

Movies can be magical, but it is often makeup that acts as the fairy godmother. With just a few strokes and blots, a miraculous transformation can change the entire story into a fairy tale. The October issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa is your guide to help your clients make the streets their own red carpet with our special MAKEUP GUIDE! With so many hacks now on social media, steer clients in the right direction, and help them understand their makeup personality so they can look and feel their best. Explore options that maximize revenue potential and find out all about the latest trends. Learn the keys to hosting a makeup class in the spa, and the secret to ending your clients’ services on a makeup note. Check out the new frontiers in the spa with our articles on cryotherapy and floatation therapy. Wellness is also getting a revamp in the spa that makes living a healthier lifestyle more convenient for guests. Discover how boutique spas can have a big impact by filling one big need in the local community. Also, find out how to spice up your menu with belly treatments!

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Become part of the beauty and wellness tribe by gaining exclusive knowledge next month at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa on November 6 & 7 at the Hyatt Regency Hotel and James L. Knight Center in Miami. Reinvent your business and yourself with Main Stage presenters, informative Conferences and Productfocused Training. Get inspired and boost your career with the support of your professional community. We’ll see you there!

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—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com

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O C TO B E R 20 16

V ol u me 3 1

N u mbe r 1 0

CONTENTS SKIN

Anti-Pollution Skin Care The Big Chill Skin News

12 18 28

page 18

Spa of the Month Belly Treatments for All The Benefits of Floatation Therapy Spa News

Holy Basil 108 The Magic of Eye Contact 114 Organic & Wellness News 121

The Magic of Eye Contact page 114

The Big Chill

SPA

ORGANIC & WELLNESS

30 36 42 52

Fall for Beauty page 124

IMAGE

BUSINESS

Behind the Spa Door with Jeanette Acosta Revamping Spa Menus The Ins and Outs of Running a Day Spa Business News

MAKEUP GUIDE

60 64 74 78

Seize the Makeup Opportunity 80 The "Makeup" Ending 84 What is Your Client's Makeup Personality? 90 Hosting a Makeup Class in the Spa 96 The New Makeup Phenomenons 102 Makeup Photo Feature 106

Makeup Guide page 79

Tapping into the Cruise Ship Wedding Craze 122 Fall for Beauty 124 Image News 129

EXTRAS From the Editor Advertiser Index

6 130

Cover

Art Director & Styling: Claude Tarantino ambassador for l'Oréal Professionnel Photos: Jules Egger Claude Tarantino uses l'Oréal Professionnel

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com

GLOW FACIAL

Editorial Associate Maureen Castellon maureen@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Alan Araya alan@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@LNEonline.com

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Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com

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Through August 31, 2016, receive the LNE & SPA Best Winner! Pot of Gold Scrub FREE with GLOW Kit purchase (Retail value $55.00)

Light exfoliation is followed by caviar ampules, gold elixir and an application of gold leaves, leaving skin brilliantly illuminated. Ideal for parties, weddings, and other high-profile events.

VISIT US IN LONG BEACH

BOOTH 419-421 BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com october 2016

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Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontributors Caroline Canetti Maureen Castellon Melanie Edwards Hannah Hatcher Jaklin Idris Ami Mallon

Nicole Nunns Jolenny Piedra Shadoh Punnapuzha Jay A. Shorr

Mara Shorr Pamela Taylor Daren Thomas Shawn Towne Amy Wall Amanda Clinton Winter

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.


Pentavitin | Ceremides | Collagen | Hyaluronic Acid | Hydroxy-Acids

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The Most Powerful Anti-Aging formulations Trusted by Top Doctors.


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ANTIPOLLUTION

Skin Care The Key Ingredients to Shield Complexions by Jaklin Idris

A

ccording to the National Geographic Society, air pollution enters the Earth's atmosphere in many different ways, but most of it is created by people. Air pollution can be harmful in a number of ways, but a common topic lately has been how it impacts the health of the skin. Increased exposure to pollution has been shown to prompt premature aging, skin damage, inflammation and clogged pores. Some studies even link increased pollution to brown spots on the skin. The recent growth of urban life

has brought these issues to light more than ever, leading to a new demand for “pollution protection� in skin care.

WHAT ARE WE PROTECTING SKIN FROM? Pollution is defined as the introduction of contaminants into an otherwise natural environment. Ironically, as industrialization has improved quality of life around the globe tremendously, it has simultaneously increased the pollutants we live with on a daily basis.

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SKIN

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ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN CARE

Ground-level ozone pollution is suspected by some to be one of the primary causes of pollution-related skin damage. It is a colorless and highly irritating gas that forms just above the earth's surface when pollutants (such as combustion exhaust from fossil fuels) react with direct sunlight. When that pollution comes into contact with your skin, it doesn’t just sit on the surface. The tiny size of these particles — sometimes as much as 20 times smaller than pores — allows them to infiltrate deeper layers of the epidermis. This is harmful because the outer layer of our skin contains lipids — that is, fats that bind skin cells together, and pollution oxidizes those lipids. This causes not only inflammation and dehydration, but also a cellular-level reaction that breaks down the barrier function of the skin and further damages the DNA. Luckily, this is one natural disaster we can prevent, as simple changes to our skin care routines can make a remarkable impact.

HOW DOES IT WORK? The approach to fighting pollution should be very similar to tackling UV rays — protection and prevention is always better than remedying it later. Similar to how we use SPF to protect our skin from the sun, it’s important to look for ingredients that are scientifically proven to improve skin exposed to pollutants. The key is harnessing antioxidants and other ingredients that protect cells from free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors, in addition to keeping skin hydrated at all times. An uncomplicated yet efficacious beauty regimen traditionally consists of the following product ranges:

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MAKEUP REMOVERS AND TONIFYING LOTIONS FOR CLEAN, CLEAR, PURE AND FRESH SKIN.

C R EA M S A N D L O T I O N S F O R PROTECTED AND HYDRATED SKIN.

EXFOLIATING TREATMENTS AND MASKS FOR SMOOTH, BALANCED AND SOFT SKIN.

BROAD SPECTRUM SPF PRODUCTS FOR PROTECTION AGAINST UVA AND UVB RAYS.


SKIN

Anti-pollution agents can be added to each and every step of your clients’ skin care routine. Make sure you are offering products that contain ingredients scientifically proven to combat pollution. Some keywords to look for on product labels include: Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory. A group of natural and synthetic ingredients that reduce free radical and environmental (pollution) damage.

Plant extracts and essential oils are especially popular due to consumers’ interest in “natural” formulations. Antioxidants can help neutralize free radical damage caused by pollutants. Common antioxidants include: • Moringa oleifera - Known for its anti-adhesive properties, moringa provides an invisible film and natural shield on the skin’s surface to reduce the deposit of environmental pollutants and prevent their absorption into the skin. • Vitamins C & E – These antioxidants help protect the body from harmful free radicals that damage skin cells. They can improve cell function, increase collagen production and boost elasticity. • Niacinamide – This ingredient helps improve the skin’s barrier function to block out pollution. It also has anti-inflammatory properties to soothe and quell inflammation in the skin. • Artichoke - Extracts from artichoke provide hydrating and anti-pollution benefits to the skin. Artichoke is known to inhibit the inflammation and premature aging caused by pollution. • White tea – White tea is rich in antioxidant flavonoids and has been shown to neutralize up to 80 percent of free radicals, protecting cell membranes and helping the skin defend itself from pollution.

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ANTI-POLLUTION SKIN CARE

leaves the skin looking smooth, soft, well hydrated and glowing. There are many skin-identical ingredients, including: • Glycerin – Glycerin has a dual ability to hydrate the skin and fill in gaps in drier skin. As such, it is able to provide protection by keeping the outer layer of the skin intact. This layer is essential as it is the natural barrier protecting skin from pollutants. • Phospholipids – Phospholipids rebuild the skin’s barrier level and act as a reservoir for the prolonged delivery of natural active nutrients and moisture to the inner layer of the skin. • Ceramides – Ceramides are essential in maintaining a healthy skin barrier. They help replenish the skin’s own protective barrier and prevent moisture loss. Emollients. Lubricating ingredients that prevent water loss and have a softening, protective, smoothing effect on skin.

Preventing water loss and keeping skin hydrated is vital in the fight against pollution. Fatty acids (such as linoleic acid, triglycerides and fatty alcohols) are common emollients. They are a crucial part of the skin’s lipid content and help bolster its barrier function, which, when working properly, acts like a seal that keeps pollutants out. 

Cofactors. Small non-protein molecules that can bind to enzymes and produce reactions.

Jaklin Idris, the director of

Several studies have reported that cofactors benefit the skin’s rejuvenation process by supporting its natural antioxidant and detoxification systems, which in turn helps protect against pollution’s negative effects. Essential trace elements to look for include iron, magnesium, manganese, cobalt, copper, zinc, molybdenum, B vitamins, folic acid, vitamin K and biotin (H).

education for DECLÉOR and CARITA Paris, has nearly 20 years of experience working in education with professional skin care and luxury products, including more than 13 years in key education and training roles for Darphin, Estée Lauder and Origins. Most recently, as VP of Marketing and Business

Skin-identical/Skin-repairing ingredients.

Development for Kat Burki, Idris gained

Substances that keep skin cells connected to help maintain

valuable brand and market development

skin’s barrier.

experience. A licensed esthetician, Idris is

A healthy, intact barrier helps block out pollutants and

also certified in Reiki.

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THE

BIG

Chill

Why & How Spas Should Add Cryotherapy by Caroline Canetti

WHEN YOU THINK OF CRYOTHERAPY, you might think of athletes using it after a sports injury or post-surgery patients using it for pain relief. That's because it was originally intended for those uses. (See page 21 for complete list of benefits.) Most feel that this service belongs at wellness centers, doctors' offices or cryo-specific facilities. But, there's a small set of day spa professionals who are offering Whole Body Cryotherapy (WBC) and cryo-facials for their skin care benefits, as well as a slew of new cryo companies looking to team with day spas.

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THE BIG CHILL

F

reezing yourself for beauty and wellness might seem like a new trend, but WBC was actually started in 1978 by Japan's Dr. Toshiba Yamaguchi as a treatment for rheumatoid arthritis. In the past few years, the treatment has gained popularity among celebrities, including the likes of Jennifer Aniston and Jessica Alba. The process is simple, cold, quick and has a high profit margin. A cryo-facial, which averages to about six to 10 minutes at -150 째F to -240 째F, uses a controlled beam of vaporized liquid nitrogen on the face, scalp and neck. For WBC, the client steps into a cryo sauna (sometimes called a cryo booth or unit) for up to three minutes (maximum) at a colder temperature of -170 째F to -256 째F. Both can cost anywhere from $25 to $65 per session.

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The process is simple, cold, quick and has a high profit margin.


SKIN

With skin benefits ranging from increased collagen production and reduced wrinkles to cellulite reduction and acne treatment, it's curious why the service is still provided mostly at medical centers and cryo spas. "Even though it's been around for a while, it's still new to the skin care industry and there isn't a lot of research and studies on it. But there is no reason why any day spa can't add this," notes Lance Mald, co-founder of 256 Below, who brings cryo services to a variety of facilities, such as day spas, chiropractor offices and orthopedic surgeons. James Shields, owner of Cryo Shield at the Flower Hill Promenade in Del Mar, Calif., and pitcher for the San Diego Padres, feels that cryotherapy technology is the next big thing for day spas' facial departments, and his company is actively seeking to team with more spas. "People just need to understand it's not just for pain management and for athletes,” he says. “The skin care benefits are substantial."

GETTING STARTED CRYOTHERAPY MAY DELIVER THE FOLLOWING BENEFITS AND PROVIDE POSITIVE EFFECTS FOR THESE PHYSICAL/MEDICAL CONDITIONS: Post-surgical recovery Pain management Muscle soreness and aches Joint pain Inflammatory diseases Rheumatoid arthritis Bekhterev's disease Multiple sclerosis Fibromyalgia Osteoarthritis Spinal syndromes Asthma Increases libido Burns 500-800 calories Releases endorphins Releases toxins Blood flow restoration

In most states, if you want to add cryotherapy services to your spa menu, you have to pay $50,000 to $60,000 for a whole body cryo machine or $10,000 to $15,000 for the local unit (for face and specific body parts) and get trained by the manufacturer. However, some spas are opting to team with cryo-spas or medical spas instead. Dolce Viso Salon & Spa, a day spa in Millburn, N.J., teamed with the aforementioned 256 Below that operates as part of a med-spa Hava Laser Center & Medispa to offer CryoLift Facials ($25 intro, $45 single, $200 five-pack, $350 10-pack), Whole Body Cryotherapy ($75 single, $325 five-pack, $499 10-pack) and CryoSpot Treatments ($30 single or $25 with WBC). "You don't need a special license… and you don't need the assistance of a medical professional in the room to do

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THE BIG CHILL

this,” says Mald. *Check your local regulations, as laws can change for this non-FDA approved service.

Susan Edwards, co-owner of H-Bling, a cryo, infrared and nutritional therapies wellness center in Brea, Calif., says that the training her cryotherapy technicians took through the unit's manufacturer (which issues their own certificate with their training) involves both a written and a hands-on test where they perform the treatments several times. "As this gets more popular, I think the training requirements could change,” she says. “You also need a good bedside manner so you can talk your client through the treatment to keep their mind off the cold." As for space requirements, Mald says you only need about 80-100 square feet to house the unit. But, Edwards says there's one more physical consideration to consider: "If you have a smaller location, you might have to have a ventilation system." Finding the right liquid nitrogen company to deliver to your spa can be problematic depending on the exact street location. "We looked at several locations, and they weren't working," says Edwards. "Not only are there city codes, but there can be issues about how they're going to get the nitrogen. For instance, some companies don't want to go across sidewalks or up stairs to get to you. The regulations for this differ by state as well, so do your research."

CRYO FACIALS Cryo-facials use a stream of pressurized liquid nitrogen vapors — or mist — on the face, neck and décolleté for about six to 10 minutes to stimulate the production of collagen, decrease pore size, decrease the appearance of wrinkles and lines, improve blood flow, aid with cell repair and brighten dark spots. "The cold mist tightens the blood

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THE BIG CHILL

CRYOTHERAPY MAY IMPROVE THE FOLLOWING SKIN ISSUES: Inflammation Psoriasis Dermatitis Eczema Acne Cellulite Skin elasticity Collagen production Skin clarity and tone Cell rejuvenation Pore size Overall skin tone Fine lines and wrinkles Dark spots/age spots

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vessels and they constrict. But, it's not getting so cold that everything's frozen. Right away once you move the mist off, all the new, oxygenated blood goes straight to that area. So that's opening up all the blood vessels to improve circulation," explains Edwards, who offers 10-minute Cryo-Facials for $45 for one session, $200 for five and $350 for 10. Of course, these services work best on a regular basis. Edwards says if someone is having a breakout, they may come in between two and three times a week. Or if they are working on a dark spot it may take a few times a week for several weeks. "You don't want to come more than three times a week because your skin can't produce that much collagen,� she says. “But in the long run, you have to maintain it. For the first treatment, though, you will see the skin smooth out, the lines will decrease, and that lasts for about a week." Mald says one interesting thing about the cryo-facial is that clients can receive the treatment while they have makeup on. "When you're going out to a big event or a wedding, or you're just all dolled up and you want to just get a little bit more of a glow, come in and get a quick cryo-lift facial," he says.


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SKIN

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THE BIG CHILL

WBC FOR SKIN CARE WBC is still the most popular form of cryotherapy, but its primary use is really for health and medical reasons, such as post-surgical recovery, pain management and inflammatory diseases. There are a few skin care benefits as well, such as increasing circulation, releasing toxins and improving blood flow, all of which can improve1the7/10/16 skin. silcskin_ad-eye.pdf

C

"The coldness forces the blood in your extremities to circulate back to your heart and vital organs to keep you alive, and while it's doing that the blood is getting more oxygen,” explains Teddy Amkie, brand ambassador for Grotto de Sal in Los Angeles, Calif. “The air doesn't necessarily physically need to touch all parts of your body to 11:50 AM

have an effect on all parts of your body, which is why it even works on the face even though your head is above the stream of air. You don't need to dip or dunk down in the sauna to get the air on your face, like some people do, to get the effects," Grotto de Sal offers an introductory session of WBC for $45, single sessions for $65, three sessions for $150 and 10 for $400. Edwards further explains that during cryotherapy, the skin vessels and capillaries undergo a period of vasoconstriction followed by vasodilation when the session is finished. "This causes toxins stored in the layers of skin to be broken down and flushed away," she explains. "The intense cold activates collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin, leaving your skin firm and tight. The improvement of oxygenated, nutrient rich blood flushes back to the surface creating benefits such as tighter and smoother skin, increased collagen production and skin elasticity, and it can help with acne, psoriasis and cellulite."

M

LOCALIZED CRYO

Y

CM

Localized cryotherapy is typically used to treat specific injuries or for post-surgery, such as after an ankle surgery or for an injured wrist. But, H-Bling, which offers their localized cryotherapy for $30 per area or as a $25 add-on with WBC, has found a few uses for skin care as well. "We use the same device for facials as a spot treatment to treat acne, dark spots, rashes, psoriasis and cellulite on the back of the thighs, for instance,” says Edwards. “For acne, what it's doing is taking out that inflammation. We used this for a young client with eczema who is too small for the whole body sauna and saw a huge improvement."

MY

CY

K

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SKIN

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THE BIG CHILL

SAFETY CONCERNS The elephant in the room when it comes to cryotherapy is the 2015 death of Chelsea Ake-Salvacion, a cryotherapy technician at Rejuvenice Cryotherapy in Las Vegas who died in the cryo sauna when she decided to give herself a treatment unattended and became trapped for hours, according to Fox News. The official cause of death was suffocation. When asked if the incident might be a reason why spas are hesitant to add cryotherapy, Mald explains how that type of situation is easily avoidable. “Going alone in a cryo sauna is a no-no,” he says. “We always have one person monitoring. Most machines have doors that just swing open or are magnetic, so you can't get trapped in, so that's not a real fear either. We also have a shut-off valve on our machine

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that turns off after three minutes.” More realistic concerns include feeling dizzy, which can happen if clients breathe in cold air, and getting frostbite. To guard against those hazards, the cryo technician takes the client's blood pressure first, puts gloves and socks on them to prevent those small digits from getting frostbite and makes sure they are not wet or damp at all (that means no sweating, runny noses, open wounds or excess lotion on the skin, but they can dry off quickly before the treatment if needed). Women can go in fully nude, though most opt for a bathing suit. Men, however, must wear shorts to avoid getting frostbite on their penis. "We don't want anything to fall off," laughs Amkie. Naturally, having any alcohol before a cryotherapy session is forbidden as well. "No alcohol consumption prior to whole body treatment whatsoever be-

cause alcohol already constricts blood vessels, so we don't want an issue with that," says Mald. Shields, who offers individual WBC sessions for $50 up to packages of 10 for $420, says that clients also can't be wearing jewelry or metal, have high blood pressure, diabetes, a pacemaker, or be pregnant. 256 Below's list of contraindications include all that and more, such as acute or recent myocardial infarction, symptomatic cardiovascular disease, a cardiac stint, peripheral arterial occlusive disease and other serious medical conditions. As for after care, 256 Below warns clients not to enter a hot sauna or Jacuzzi for at least six hours and to minimize alcohol consumption for several hours following treatment. Shields says, "Because it energizes you and releases endorphins, we actually encourage our clients to go work out." 


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SECOND SKIN?!

Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Living Proof, a biotechnology company, are about to be known for their contributions to the beauty industry as well. They created the revolutionary Second Skin. Silicone-based chemicals restore elasticity and also enable the skin to breathe while providing a youthful appearance. The beauty game changer comfortably behaves like skin for 24 hours. The question mark is when it will be available… to be continued!

news.mit.edu

bridge to gorgeous Immediate lifting and tightening effects are the effects of this unique treatment of Amarte Skin Care’s SILKTOX Mask that bridges Korean skin care innovation from consumer to professional back bar. With 20 eco-harvested botanical extracts — including willow bark and ginkgo biloba nut – and a base of pure silk, just one application lends itself to a brighter and firmer complexion.

softer... softest

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SkinNews

Circ Cell’s Mandarin Cleansing Milk offers the delight of bright and exfoliated skin that glows with soothing hydration. This rich, creamy cleanser removes all traces of makeup and debris with extracts of mandarin, grapefruit and orange alongside aloe vera in addition to licorice. The addition of seaweed extract helps with cellular regeneration and reduces the signs of acne.

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october 2016

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AGING BEAUTIFULLY

Turn back time in the simplest way. Senté’s Bio Complete Serum has patented HAS technology to boost the complexion’s power to reverse time with the most advanced retinoid, growth factor stimulating and peptide complex. The slow release of vitamin A allows for superior performance with little to no irritation. Perfect for all client skin types to use daily.

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This back bar treatment is an unprecedented offering in the U.S. market. The treatment not only tightens skin upon application, but maintains a natural pH balance and infuses multiple antioxidants and pure elements to reveal a smoother and more youthful-looking complexion.

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by Amanda Clinton Winter

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T

he Marriott Coronado Island Resort & Spa has vowed to provide the best spa in San Diego and to set new standards of well-being. Harnessing inspiration from the quiet power of the sea, Coronado Marriott provides business travelers, locals and tourists with an invigorating seaside escape.

TRAINING Coronado Marriott prepared for its launch in June 2016 with extensive staff training. The goal was to deliver the best spa experience to guests via two weeks of intense product and hands-on training supported by the resort’s corporate partnership. During this time, staff experienced the treatments and products offered to guests to gain insight into how to elevate customer service. To maintain this high level of dedication, staff is audited for service levels on a weekly basis. Reflecting on performance, Spa Director Veljko Savic explains that the spa “provides training opportunities for all staff by blocking ‘quiet times’ for them to practice on one another or experience a treatment from the guest’s point of view.”

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SPA OF THE MONTH

Staff performance is initially reviewed after 90 days and once a year thereafter. Guest feedback is highly valued and considered the best measure of a team member’s performance. Approaches to training and service delivery are modified based on this feedback.

EVENTS AND PROMOTIONS Coronado Marriott seeks to supply guests with the best products and to create a spot for locals to do their wellness shopping. Partnering with local brands that fit into the spa’s customized wellness vision provides a built-in audience. Locals are offered special deals and promotions, such as 15 percent off all spa treatments. Additionally, a “Coronado Moms Club Special” entails wearing a pin that earns guests a free massage upgrade from 50 minutes ($145) to 80 minutes (normally $210). Each yearly marketing calendar combines internal and external initiatives. Large groups, such as business travelers, conference attendees or wedding season guests staying on premises receive special promotions. Externally, promotions are designed around seasonal events such as Valentine’s Day. Coronado Marriott is already planning for 2017 and events will be revamped annually with careful examination of past season successes, including the number of treatments booked, number of guests/attendees and public relations value.

MARKETING The targeted audience for Coronado Marriott’s marketing efforts is segmented into guests staying on property, local Coronado and San Diego County clientele alongside potential business

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and leisure travelers. Each group is reached with a multitude of offers and messages designed to fit their needs. Knowing their preferences and specific pain points is vital to decision making. Guests staying on the property are welcomed through internal promotion channels with materials such as pre-arrival emails and brochures at check-in, and further promotional information is strategically placed in the hotel rooms. Once guests have visited the Spa at Coronado Island and Wellness Center, they are offered a complimentary upgrade for their second visit. This entails receiving enhancements such as hot stones and nourishing hair masks, or upgrading from a 50-minute treatment to an 80-minute treatment. Comprehensive marketing initiatives include public relations tactics, social media integrations and seasonal events and promotions. Press releases

To create wellness signature services, design with the long term in mind. Guests with a healthy lifestyle generally incorporate fitness, relaxation and nutrition into their stay. Owners and directors can customize rooms by asking guests specific questions via electronic surveys a few days before their arrival, centering on physical activities, scent and dietary requirements that can be accommodated. The next step is to personalize rooms with these preferences.


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announce new treatments, services and events, as well as media events and previews. Additionally, organic and sponsored content alongside contests as well as promotions are used to engage in-house guests in addition to fans and followers on social media.

SIGNATURE TREATMENTS Coronado Marriott balances three types of guests: tourists, locals and business travelers. One signature treatment for those on vacation or anyone seeking a treasured experience is the Ocean Memory Ritual (110 minutes, $280). This unique treatment offers a variety of relaxing techniques. A dry body brushing awakens and invigorates the body. Skin is then prepared for a cocooning body wrap with the application of a warmed blend of essential oils and creams. Once the body is swathed in

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luxurious comfort, a relaxing scalp massage is performed. The crowning touch is an extended Swedish massage. In a survey conducted by Kelton Global, 56 percent of business travelers said their biggest travel stressor was the physical toll on their bodies. These pain points and the challenge of limited time frames are addressed at Coronado Marriott with express options. For those trying to squeeze in quality spa time between meetings, the Back, Neck and Shoulders Massage is ideal (25/50 minutes, $75/$150). Rather than disrobing and lying on a table, this express massage is performed in a chair. The toll of traveling vanishes as the therapist combines relaxing Swedish massage broad strokes with a focus on trigger points.

DEVELOPING WELLNESS EXPERIENCES To meet the needs of guests and locals, new wellness experiences are being advanced. “Stay well rooms” and a “wellness amenity” room upgrade are two tiers of the resort’s wellness concept. The goal is to create customized packages and services that focus on health as a lifestyle for travelers. Permanent fixtures include a vitamin C infused showerhead, HEPA air purification systems, an aromatherapy system, a dawn-simulating alarm clock, shower amenities, an educational bath component (essential oil and bath salts along with a scripted meditation or breathing instructional), a set of spa slippers and a bathrobe, and a refrigerator stocked with juices, healthy snacks and a wellness menu. These features are currently included in the “Stay well rooms,” and the spa will be adding more in the future. The wellness amenity room upgrade offered to guests upon their arrival includes a yoga mat, a stretching ball, resistance cords, an aromatherapy candle, a sleep mask, “quiet mind” pillow spray and a fresh fruit bowl.

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Spa Director

SPOTLIGHT

NUTRITION Executive Chef Michael Poompan heads the resort’s culinary program with a strong focus on key nutritional and dietary requirements impacting both physical and mental well-being. “The vision of conscious cuisine is reflected through fresh, healthy and creative dishes that are nutrient-packed and feature ingredients that are as close to their natural form as possible, most of which are also from local San Diego purveyors,” explains Savic. One notable offering is the Wellness Bento Box from the Spa Café, which was designed to be an intuitive approach to nutrition. This artfully presented, customizable Japanese-style bento allows spa-goers to choose three items from a selection of healthy sides, proteins and sandwiches. For a finishing touch, guests can add a fresh pitaya bowl, organic cold-pressed juice or a Spa-tini cocktail.

REVENUE AND RETAIL Marriott has a wide network of spas, with corporate guidance for its retail operations. Core vendors provide consistency of the offerings; however, each spa has freedom to choose a portion of the products by themselves. Usually these are local, high quality products matching the vision and philosophy, or “scenography,” of the spa. When choosing a vendor, high quality, high result yields, clean labels, environmental and social consciousness

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are considerations. Spa products are divided into three categories: health and beauty, apparel and gifts. In the health and beauty category there is an effort to balance big and local brands. Apparel features robes, slippers and clothing for yoga. The gifts section includes candles, spa tools and gemstone water. 

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.

RUNDOWN

VELJKO SAVIC Born in Belgrade, Serbia, health and wellness have been dominant forces throughout Veljko Savic’s life. His passion for the workings of the mind and body led him to study physiotherapy for seven years. He then went on to work as a therapist in spas and aboard cruise ships, embracing the regional spa trends of the United States, Europe, the Caribbean and the Baltic states. With more than a decade of experience, Savic has a special expertise in holistic treatments including aromatherapy, bio-energy and psychokinesiology. He has led awardwinning spa programs throughout the world, including those of the Hotel Del Coronado, Four Seasons and the RitzCarlton brands. Savic has also served as a member of the Marriott International Spa Advisory Council.

MARRIOTT CORONADO ISLAND RESORT & SPA 2000 2nd St, Coronado, CA 92118 Launch: May 2016 Spa and Wellness Director: Veljko Savic Staff ratio: Peak Season - 1 Per Guest Room Off Season - 0.7 Per Guest Room (Total staff number ranges from 225 to 300)

Square feet: 5,500 square feet (3,500 square feet of indoor space, 2,000 square feet of outdoor space) Number of treatment rooms: 10 Awards: “Best Spa Menu” in San Diego Magazine

Amenities: Couples’ spa suite Male and female locker rooms Eucalyptus steam room Coed relaxation room Spa garden State-of-the-art gym with cardio floor Lap pool Nine sports courts Client composition: 60 percent female, 40 percent male Signature treatment: Coronado Island Ocean Memory Ritual Retail lines: Éminence, NuFace, Suja Juice, Kasia Jewelry


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Belly Treatments For All

Spice up your menu with unexpected treatment options by Maureen Castellon

AS

the core of our bodies, bellies anchor new life and house our digestive tracks. In addition to these crucial functions, they even provide a canvas for creativity! Clients have stared in the mirror scrutinizing their stomachs from every angle and may not be aware that they have a plethora of beautifying options for this targeted area. While crunches can shape abdominals, the skin may need TLC to look amazing during pregnancy or any time of life. Spas can get creative and cater to those who are expecting a baby or simply want a new type of spa experience with belly treatments.

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••• BELLY FACIALS Hormonal changes that occur with weight fluctuations can result in stretch marks. These changes impact natural lipids that retain moisture with an internal barrier. Rapid stretching, particularly in the case of pregnancy, results in tiny cracks that drain moisture from the skin, as evidenced by flakiness and discomfort. Making an effort to keep skin imbued with moisture via a belly facial will lessen trauma. Begin belly facials with skin brushing to clear flakes and prepare for product absorption. Next, apply a cream-based mask rich in repair oils to strengthen skin with moisture while increasing elasticity. For the ending note, slather the abdominal area with oils rich in omegas. Pregnancy is a time when skin sensitivity is at its peak, and hence certain ingredients should be avoided. Estheticians should shun topical use of prescription retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. While most essential oils can be used if heavily diluted, tea tree oil and rosemary oil should be avoided, given the complications they can induce. Tea tree oil can have estrogenic effects even in mild doses, and rosemary oil induces uterine contractions. Celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau offers this advice for spas considering putting belly facials on the menu: “Be open-minded about offering solutions anywhere a client has skin.” These facials can be targeted to pregnant women, but varying angles can also be used in marketing, such as a reward for weight loss. Another great option is to market belly facials as primers for wearing bikinis. Judy Kurtz of La Bella Baby Pregnancy Spa and Ultra Sound Center also believes that all skin is

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Key Tip for Clients! equal. “We recommend that clients treat their bellies with a good skin care regimen just as they would their faces to maintain healthy skin while it expands or contracts.” For non-expecting clients, neroli oil is ideal for use on the belly. Fine lines are smoothed and sagging skin is toned. The secret component of this rejuvenating oil is citral, a natural chemical renowned for aiding in cell regeneration, which is also said to heal stretch marks.

••• BELLY MASSAGE Abdominals play a significant role in well-being. The stomach is the core of the human body and its primary function is to provide sustenance to fuel the body. Stressful situations can wreak havoc on the digestive system, as can eating too much or too little. Massage stimulates blood flow to maintain proper circulation, which aids in nutritional absorption. Likewise, different techniques can detoxify the digestive system. Four abdominal massage categories include Thai Hera, Swedish Peristalsis, Chinese Chi Nei Tsang and Mayan. Each international option varies in their intent and level of stroking

Posture held throughout the day determines how easily th e body can process food , as restrictio ns in blood flow ha ve negative impacts.

pressure. Thai Hara is a deep massage. The intent is to release any blocks in the digestive process. Swedish Peristalsis uses oil to induce relaxation and gently aid digestion via slow strokes. Chinese Chi Nei Tsang is a healing massage with light strokes to ease digestion and eliminate toxins. Latin America offers Mayan abdominal massage, which strengthens ligaments and muscles by shifting them. Although this massage is heralded for female fertility issues by adjusting the uterus, men also benefit, as it brings blood to the prostate. Clients may need some encouragement to try abdominal massage. The area can be perceived as more personal than others and therefore care must be given to first timers who may be ticklish. Spas can consider offering abdominal massage as an add-on. There is currently no specific certification for general abdominal massage. Arvigo techniques for Mayan abdominal surgery are the exception, with certifications available and required for this modality.


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••• BELLY ARTWORK Humans crave creativity. Art that centers on the belly is a popular theme for baby showers and other events for expectant mothers. Providing a unique creative experience for clients makes them more likely to book larger parties so friends and family can witness their journey to motherhood. Adding belly art to your menu, with cast artwork or sacred adornment designed with henna, provides the perfect opportunity to participate in unique decorating events for larger groups. Peek of Joy 3D Ultra Sound Spa in Williamsburg, Va., offers belly cast artwork for expectant moms and those who wish to pause time to honor events such as weight loss. Co-owner Arleigh Hatcher, R.N., is proud to offer the service. “We honor the passage into motherhood in a visually stunning way that can be enjoyed with gender reveals and baby showers.” The cast materials are non-toxic, and the belly casting

acts as a mini massage for mothers, as their bumps are treated to warm water and caressed with plaster strips. Gender reveal parties have become a big business in recent years. Peek of Joy can determine the sex of the baby at 16 weeks rather than at the standard 20. As a result, clients are able to throw creative parties. Rather than cutting into a slice of cake that is dyed either pink or blue, expectant fathers stand in front of or behind soon-to-be mothers wearing the cast that has been painted in the gender hue either on the inside or outside. Belly casts also offer the opportunity for women who may want to memorialize weight loss. Other creative options include using the belly as a canvas. Earth Altar Studio in Glendale, Calif., offers the opportunity to decorate bellies for bridal showers, bachelorette parties, Valentine’s Day or for the music festival season. The adornments are intuitive and sacred, and hold true meaning to the client. The water-based body paint is made with aloe, chamomile, avocado oil and glycerin. Owner and artist Justine Serebrin believes “sacred design can make your body feel special, as decorating our skin makes us love our body.” The ability to capture a moment in time takes life out of the ordinary. Belly treatments are a great way to expand your menu options for expectant mothers and any clients who want to look their best all over.  Maureen Castellon is the associate editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and an adjunct writing professor at Miami Dade College. She graduated with honors from the English department at the University of Alabama and now blogs at sirenpublications.com. When not writing about beauty, Castellon can be found meditating on the beach with her German Shepherd.

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the

benefits of

FLOATATION

THERAPY The ULTIMATE Experience of Renewal by Nicole Nunns

Sensory deprivation therapy. What is this growing trend on the wellness scene, and how is it being used? Sensory deprivation therapy takes place in an “isolation tank”, a term coined by the late American physician John C. Lilly in 1954, who devised the first one. The idea behind this tank was to isolate the brain from all external stimulants while subjects floated in warm salt water in a lightless, soundproof tank. Today, because humans don’t like to be “deprived” of anything, many businesses refer to these facilities as an “isolation floatation chamber”, “float room” or “floatation tank”. The alternative to these rooms is a cheaper, simpler “float pod”.

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he appearance of these facilities is growing rapidly in wellness centers across Europe and the United States. A long list of celebrities — including the likes of Elle Macpherson, Kristin Wiig and Jeff Bridges — are fans of the experience due to its amazing mental and physical benefits. The New England Patriots credit their star quarterback Tom Brady with introducing them to floatation therapy, which they say increases their stamina for the big game and relaxes their tense muscles afterward. Floatation tanks are also now popping up in professional sport locker rooms, wellness spas, yoga studios and standalone float centers. Tom Wunk, owner and founder of The Float Place in Deer Park, New York, explains why he was inspired to open his own facility after trying the experience: “The peace and relaxation I felt through my entire being after my first float was nothing short of life changing. It wasn't just a glimpse at feeling good, it transformed me physically and mentally for a few weeks. I knew I had to spread this to the people of Long Island.”

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the FLOATER’S PERSPECTIVE Reducing one’s sensory input leads to a uniquely spiritual experience, and an overall feeling of deep relaxation. During an immersive floating experience, the brain may cease to process verbal information, imagery can become more vivid and the floater will realize that while they have a body, the body is not what defines them as a being.

I have been hooked on floating since my first experience one year ago. During my first few minutes of lying in 95.8 degree water (the same temperature as the surface of the skin), anxiety-ridden thoughts raced through my head: "What am I doing here? I’m naked, can anyone see me? If so, I’m sure they ran by now!" But as the minutes continued to pass,


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THE BENEFITS OF FLOATATION THERAPY

these thoughts did as well, until I felt weightless and calm. After 90 minutes (which felt like a mere 30 minutes), soft music awakened me from a peaceful slumber. After I emerged from the tank, I showered and changed back into my clothing. I was escorted to a relaxation lounge to reflect on my float experience and enjoy my new overall sense of wellbeing. Not only was the lounge stocked with an array of herbal teas, they had sketch pads too, where I drew enlightening doodles and flipped through the artwork of fellow floaters. They made me smile. As ironic as it sounds, I felt extremely relaxed and energized at the same time.

BENEFITS Floaters experience a vast array of physical and mental benefits, from the immediate to the long term:

Physical In a typical floatation tank, 1,000 pounds of pharmaceutical grade Epsom salts are mixed into the water to make one float. The Epsom salt helps replenish the floater's magnesium deficiencies, as magnesium sulfate can be absorbed through the skin. Floating is also known to boost stamina, endurance and energy for enhanced performance, making it especially valuable for athletes and fitness buffs. Floaters often find relief from chronic pain, headaches and migraines. Symptoms of insomnia and fatigue can also be alleviated from floating. Many floaters rave about enjoying some of the best sleep of their lives afterward.

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Beauty Being immersed in Epsom salt softens skin and hair, while also cleansing and detoxifying the body. When showering, the layer of salt on the body works as an exfoliator while it’s lathered up and rinsed off. Removing the dead layer of the stratum corneum further boosts the skin’s post-float glow all over the body.

Psychological

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When the mind is unsettled, nothing else feels balanced. Proponents of floating believe that symptoms of stress, anxiety and depression can be alleviated with floating due to its deeply relaxing, meditative effect. Putting oneself back into reset mode via a floating experience can enable one to think clearly and be mindful. With so many physical diseases and illnesses linked to stress, this benefit alone can have a domino effect.

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PRE and POST-CARE INSTRUCTIONS When clients book their first floating appointment, advise them of the following: • Do not shave for at least four hours prior to the float, as the salt water can sting shaved skin. • Don’t arrive too hungry or too full to the session, as it is ideal to not feel the stomach during the floatation. • Avoid alcohol and stimulants like caffeine or smoking at least three hours prior to the floating session. Upon arriving for the float experience, clients must shower and remove any heavy makeup, perfumes and excessive hair products. The only part of the body they should dry following the shower is


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Let us help you grow. Visit booker.com/helpgrow or call 866-966-9798 to schedule your tour today.

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CONTRAINDICATIONS the face. This helps prevent them from wiping away dripping water and burning their eyes with pure salt during the floatation. They should be nude to enjoy the full benefits (though some facilities allow clients to wear a bathing suit if they are more comfortable) and wear disposable earplugs provided by the facility to act as buffers against noise that occurs from any slight movement of the body in the water. Following the float session, which lasts anywhere from 60 to 90 minutes, clients must shower again to remove the salty layer on the skin’s surface. The floater should be provided with water and herbal teas to rehydrate and a relaxing space to unwind following the session. They should also be advised to relax for a day or two.

Although almost anyone can enjoy a float session, there are some people who should avoid it or proceed with caution. Individuals who suffer from claustrophobia may be concerned about a feeling of being “trapped”. However, one upside of floating is that the floater has control. The floater has access to lighting and doors that can be opened and closed as they please. Those who suffer from plaque psoriasis or severe eczema should consult with their physician before floating. Due to the large quantities of salt in each tank, the experience may be extremely irritating to those skin conditions, especially if open lesions are present.

BETWEEN CLIENTS, THE TANKS ARE CLEANED THROUGH A FILTRATION SYSTEM. THE ANTIMICROBIAL ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT AS WELL AS OZONE OXIDIZES AND DESTROYS ANY FORM OF BACTERIA. THE SALT ITSELF IS ALSO VERY EFFECTIVE IN CREATING A CLEAN ENVIRONMENT.

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THE BENEFITS OF FLOATATION THERAPY

For a floatation pod, your upfront costs for the first year would average out to the following: • 1 FLOAT POD ($20,000)

• 1 YEARS’ WORTH OF EPSOM SALT ($1,500)

• 1 YEARS’ WORTH OF BATHING MATERIAL,

INCLUDING SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER, BODY WASH AND LINENS ($700)

annual revenue is $109,500. Floatation tanks can range from $12,000 to $16,000. A custom buildout for a float room, with supplies and labor included, can range from $20,000 to $40,000, in addition to costs for shipping and Epsom salt. The income estimates are the same for pods and tanks. 

• ELECTRICITY ($500)

• ESTIMATED BUILD OUT, IF NEEDED ($3,000) • FILTERS ($300)

RETURN on INVESTMENT

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Whether you choose to incorporate a float pod or floatation tank, there are significant initial expenses involved, but also a potentially worthwhile return on investment.

Based on these figures, the first-year costs average out to a total of $26,000. In the second year, this average would drop to $3,000, with the elimination of the onetime costs of the float pod and build-out. If you have an average of four floating clients a day and charge an average of $75 per session, your daily revenue would be $300. Multiply this number by 365 days in a year and the average

Nicole Nunns is a licensed esthetician and esthetics instructor at the New York Institute of Beauty on Long Island, New York. She also works per diem at The Red Door Salon & Spa. Nunns started her esthetics career performing microcurrent facial and body treatments. Her passion and drive motivate her to blossom and grow in the field she loves so dearly. Follow her on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook @estheticswithnicole.

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holistic community uniteD A deeper sense of community was celebrated this past July in Los Angeles at the Love Beauty + Wellness Festival. Attendees who were annointed tribe members of clean beauty and holistic wellness gathered to learn, share and explore health and beauty techniques. More than 35 conscious lifestyle brands helped build a creative space for holistic awareness with food concepts, retail innovation and speakers.

917.847.3012 loveorganicbeauty.com

the a list secret Make clients feel like the superstars that they are! 7e Wellness’ Myolift Ultra presents seven unique microcurrent waveforms to tap into different layers of the skin and stimulate the facial muscles. This anti-aging device works on 32 different muscles to rebuild thinner parts of the skin, fill in wrinkles and lift sagging muscles by reproducing the body’s own natural current.

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

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Achieve a deeper sense of comfort for your clients. Soft-Upholstery from Gharieni is ideal for cosmetics institutes, medical and outdoor use. Innovative synthetic leather upholstery material, Stamskin®, offers superior durability via Elastomer technology that is compliant with legal medical hygiene standards. Resistant to soiling, this covering is perfect for both Ayurveda treatments and openair ones.

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S. C. S. - Save Client Skin: TriLipid Research Institute’s latest addition, the Ultra-Hydrating All-Body Oil, is engineered to rescue dry skin using nature’s most hydrating ingredients. After too much time in the sun or exposure to harsh winter weather, this 100 percent natural, plant-derived serum is the result of more than 30 years of research by founder Frank Fanning. Delight skin in every season!

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RE

THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

STER BY I G

14 R E OB

OCT

E

A N D S AV

REGISTRATION all inclusive

$

70 45 $

2 DAY ADMISSION

1 DAY ADMISSION

SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER BY OCTOBER 14 2 Day admission is $90 after October 14 1 Day admission is $55 after October 14

5

WAYS TO REGISTER:

PHONE:

1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322

ONLINE:

LNEONLINE.com

EMAIL:

Registration@LNEONLINE.com

FAX:

1.305.443.1664

MAIL:

Aesthetic Congress Communications 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd Coral Gables, FL 33134

SHOW HOURS: SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6: 9:30 AM to 6:00 PM

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November 6 & 7, 2016

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30 Years of Skin Care & Spa Expertise Your Source to Breathe New Life Into Your Business MAIN STAGE LECTURES & DEMOS MINDFUL BIZ CONFERENCE SOCIAL MEDIA CONFERENCE REVENUE GROWTH CONFERENCE MARKETING MANIFESTO CONFERENCE

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INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

Reinvention is not about starting over; it is about building upon what already IS…its a conscious effort to become stronger, superior and sensational!

Are you ready to reinvent yourself? Are you up for the challenge?

Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner

- CONGRESS HOST

MAIN STAGE LECTURES & DEMOS Located in the Upper Level 1

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INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

CONFERENCES »

»

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INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

PRODUCT FOCUSED TRAINING »

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INCLUDED WITH ADMISSION

»

»

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EXHIBITOR LIST

AS OF SEPTEMBER 2016

Action Bag Company

être belle

Platinum Equipment

Allegra M. France

Evalash Beauty

Postquam U.S.A.

American Biotech Labs

Flamingo Beauty Supply

Procell Therapies

Anesi

Fountain of Youth Organic

PurErb™Skin Care

Audrey Morris Skin Care and Cosmetics

& Vegan Skincare

Avante Laser Training Institute

France Laure

AW Advanced Skincare Training

Gold Cosmetics and Skin Care

B & S Beauty Supply

Grande Lash South Florida

Balanced Guru distributed by JacoSpa

Hale Cosmeceticals

Beaming White - Teeth Whitening

HighChi Energy Jewelry

Beaute Tsuru

HydraFacial MD® & Perk™ - Edge Systems

Beauties City Supplies, Inc. Beauty Attica, Inc.

Image Skincare

Beauty Image

InSPAration Management

Bella Schneider Beauty

Kev. C Skin Care Professional

Bellaire Industry

Klapp Cosmetics Germany distributed by Qin Qin Corp.

BioAge - Skin Care Solutions

Quasar Biotech RapidLash® Rebonson RefectoCil distributed by JacoSpa RejuvaSea Skincare - Global Marine Phytoplankton Company Rena Levi Skin Care Repêchage RevítaLash Rezenerate Rose Micro Solutions Saian Natural Clinical Skincare Salonwear

Bio France Lab®

Lady Burd Exclusive Label Cosmetics

Bio Jouvance Paris

Lashbomb

Biofreeze

Le Mieux Cosmetics

SEEmask distributed by JacoSpa

BioLab

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Shira

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Bon Vital

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Cailyn Cosmetics

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Lipo Light North America

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Cass Luxury Shapewear

Lôngmi Lashes

Skin Accents, Inc.

Celluma

Manufacturing Beauty®

Skin for Life

Circadia by Dr. Pugliese

Martinni® Beauty, Inc.

Slim Spa the Body Specialists

Cirepil Wax distributed by JacoSpa

Mei-Cha Global

Clear FX Skin

Melanie Mills Hollywood

SofTap Permanent Cosmetics

Cliona Beauty - Light Therapy

Mena Cosmetics

Contours Rx

MerryLaz Aesthetics USA

Crown Brush Company

Mesopen

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Methode Brigitte Kettner

Dectro International

Methode Physiodermie

Depilève

Mindful Minerals

DermaSwiss

Minkys Eyelash Extensions

Dermatonus, Inc.

Morphe Brushes

Dermax, LLC.

Nacach Wax

Dermclar Mesotherapy

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Nature Pure Labs

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Nova Skin Peels

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Novalash Eyelash Extensions

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Equipro USA, Inc.

NuAge Beauty

Volcanic Origins - Aromatherapy

Essential Med Tools

Otto Trading, Inc.

Ward Photonics, LLC

Esthemax NY

Patchology

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Sotto’s International Spa Equipment Direct Spa Manufacturer Direct Spaware Software Supramedical, LLC TAMA Research Corporation The BFF Miracle Body Buffer The Unique Edge ThermoClear Tizo by Fallene TJ’s Cosmetics Distribution Viora, Inc. Visha Skincare


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BEHIND THE SPA DOOR Jeanette Acosta

with Boutique Spa with a Big Impact

Concept How do you define the concept of your spa? The concept of Skintique is to promote skin health through nature with the guidance of expert licensed skin specialists who provide results-oriented skin care with the latest in non-invasive treatments.

Facility How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there? As a boutique spa with three treatment rooms, our focus is a relaxing environment that is also a beauty sanctuary for our clients. We have a well-stocked skin care retail counter, and a cozy waiting room where we serve complimentary organic teas and snacks for guests upon arrival.

Leadership Role What daily challenges do you encounter in your position? As an esthetician and spa owner, it can be challenging to see clients in the cabin and also manage operations. In the middle of everything, I sometimes have to recall which hat I am wearing. I delegate some tasks to my staff, but for four years I have not had a spa manager. I believe in DIY; however, I suggest spas have managers who are informed in all aspects of the spa business to make the best decisions possible.

What are your biggest challenges? My biggest challenge is separating work and personal time. I once read, "If you love what you do it will never feel like work." I can't say it never feels like work, but I wouldn't do anything else.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? Perspective is key when managing stress. I understand that no matter how hard life and business get, someone else is having

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a greater challenge. I will not be given something that I cannot handle. My de-stressing process is to take three deep breaths and release.

Team Building How many employees do you have and what are their specialties? Skintique has 11 employees. We have one dual-licensed medical esthetician, clinical medical electrologist and laser technologist, in addition to two licensed estheticians who specialize in holistic healing and Ayurvedic therapies. One massage therapist focuses on body contouring and is also a Chakra and Reiki Master. We also have one massage therapist who is dual-licensed in body contouring and medical esthetics. Our team rounds out with two front desk associates, three per diem doctors and one doctor of Osteopathic medicine.

Retail

texture and scent. Testers are on full display to invite guests What are your retail goals? to educate themselves about Our philosophy is to suggest, products. We have plans to not sell. I have not constructed expand. Currently the retail retail goals. I believe in my area covers about 10 percent team’s ability to prescribe of our space. proper home care regimens. We have a less than one percent return rate. Our customHow do you select ers trust our recommendations the people who because they see results. We What can you tell us work with you? A kind and motivated person send home our first time about your marketing guests with curated samples techniques? What is key. to start the education process. do you focus on? Providing quality products, How do you evaluate top of the line equipment Where is the retail area employees, and what and exceptional cutting edge located and what is its makes an employee treatments that actually work surface area compared stand out as a star? is my marketing strategy. For I honor the trust that clients to the rest of the spa? have toward my staff and me. The retail area is located at the first 10 years of my busiEmployees should respect eye distance from the wait- ness, 100 percent of my adverthat privilege. Valued team ing area and across from the tising was through networking members always have a great check out desk. It is designed and customer referrals. In the attitude as well as a calm tem- to be very interactive and ap- past seven years, Yelp, Google perament toward guests and proachable. We stock organic and social media have taken colleagues. products that have amazing us to another level.

Marketing and Publicity

Where do you spend the most money, and why? The majority of funds are invested in equipment and training. Authentic, branded and registered safe equipment is one area where I spend the most.

Exceptional Client Care How do you keep clients loyal? Establishing trust. Our customers quickly realize that we only recommend treatments or services that are to their benefit. We have talked clients out of much more expensive services they had their hearts set on because we didn't think they were the right candidate to receive it.

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Tips For Spa Leaders What advice could you give to someone who would like to manage a spa? Understand the entire scope of the business from the customer experience to the needs of the staff. Be open to suggestions, to change and learning from the least likely person you'd think could teach you something. I’ve been an owner for 17 years and a medically trained and licensed esthetician, certified medical esthetician, for 21 years, with seven years of biomedical engineering experience... and I learn something new everyday.

What are the most important lessons you have learned that you can share with others in your career path?

Do not let the overwhelming trends or fads detour you from the your mission. Do not buy a piece of equipment or introduce a new treatment that is contradictory to your vision.

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Learn the art of respectfully saying “NO”. Early in my career I felt I had to say yes to everyone and everything. I soon realized that always saying yes was not only an injustice to myself but also to those I was saying yes to when the answer clearly should have been no. The client is not always right. I have fired clients in the past for continuous no shows, being habitually late or demanding services that are contraindicative to their health. Eliminating these situations early on will set the tone that your business is to be taken seriously and you value your practitioners’ time. As a result, you will drastically lower your liability with clients demanding services that may be harmful to their health. Trust me it's not a loss; it's a gain. Invest in training your new hires. After I have fully completed the inter-

view process and am certain the candidate is the perfect fit for my business, I train new estheticians for five weeks. On the sixth week, I set up close friends and family members to receive treatments from the new therapist and provide feedback. Also, don’t forget to give praise! We all have the need to feel appreciated. Make sure to tell your team members how much you appreciate them.

We want to he ar from YOU!

Share your insider tips on runn ing a succes sful practice with us , and you may be featured in an upcoming editio n of Les Nouvell es Esthétiques & Spa. Simply se nd an email to amanda@LNE online.com (50 to 100 words). To gether, let's bu ild a community on e word at a tim e!


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Revamping spa menus Immediate Success in Five Steps by Melanie Edwards Your spa menu is the defining feature of your spa and your company’s most influential marketing tool. And it doesn’t end there; the menu is connected to every other aspect of a profitable spa operation. Most importantly, the menu defines who you are as a company by strengthening your brand concept.

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REVAMPING SPA MENUS

1

Step

Conduct a Market Analysis of Your End Consumer and Your Competition The first step in menu development is to consider the end consumer. A thorough market analysis should encompass an in-depth understanding of your existing and target guest (i.e. gender, age, income, family status and education), as well as their values and interests. In conjunction, you should have a thorough understanding of your competition. Evaluate their pricing and identify their strengths and weaknesses. In the areas where your competition excels, can you do it better? Is there an opportunity to outperform them in the areas where they do NOT excel? Do online research Download menus, identify main concept, view service offerings and pricing as well as identify product lines. Become a secret shopper Experience the competition, schedule treatments and make anonymous calls to find out which services are most popular. Check out your competitor’s presence on social media Check frequency and focus of engagement, promotions, offers and discounting.

mentors, be sure to draw on diverse perspectives as you build your data.

Review your findings and identify where you want to compete and where gaps or opportunities exist. Determine who is most likely to visit your spa, with what level of regularity and how much they would be willing to spend on services and products. Whether you engage an online survey company, family and friends or business colleagues and

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2

Step

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Understand the Main Concept and Goals of Your Spa Menu Your menu defines who you are as a company; it is your most important sales, marketing and PR tool. Always keep the end consumer in mind — your menu should be designed to cater to their needs, desires and aspirations. The aim of marketing is to know and understand your customer so well that the product or service sells itself. In addition, define your menu’s primary goal. Is it medically driven, wellness focused, green and clean or a combination thereof? Does the goal of your menu resonate with the end consumer and does it set you apart from your competitors?

Your concept is defined as a combination of the unique attributes and benefits used to translate your brand both tangibly and intangibly. Employ industry tools to identify current trends and then identify the trends that you want to exploit in your menu. Create a storyboard that pulls together the visual, emotional and physical attributes of your concept: • Visual. What colors, styles and design translate your company’s vision, philosophy and values? • Emotional. How will it make your end consumer feel? • Physical. What underlying theme will you develop into your protocols and product choices that are linked to your philosophy, vision and values?


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3

Step

Analyze Your Menu’s Profitability Before beginning the reconstruction of your existing menu, you need to determine its profitability. This requires an evaluation of specific data in order to determine the most popular and profit generating treatments. As you scan the data, you must react to two inevitable categories:

1. Treatments high in popularity but low in profitability. Determine why the treatments are popular. For example, if the reason a treatment is popular is due to immediate results and the short duration of the treatment, you want to keep this treatment on the menu and potentially add more that mirror the benefits. If the cost for performing the treatment is high, consider reviewing the COGs (Cost of Goods) breakdown to see if adjustments can be made to the cost by eliminating one product for another, use less of a particular product, or eliminate a product altogether as long as it doesn’t compromise the results. 2. Treatments high in profitability but low in popularity. Determine why the treatments are unpopular. Are there adjustments to be made that could improve the product, experience or results? For example, if the treatment is unpopular because it is promoted as a relaxation experience but it doesn’t carry through, consider adding an element to the experience that improves the relaxation aspect. It could also be the quality of the service. If the practitioner isn’t performing the treatment enough, the experience may be compromised due to a lack of skill.

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Treatments low in both popularity and profit should be taken off the menu unless you find extenuating circumstances to retain them.

Your menu is the primary tool to help you determine your product portfolio. COGS, or your Cost of Goods Sold, is the cost to your spa for the products used to execute your treatment menu and the retail revenue that those treatments generate. Beginning inventory + purchases – ending inventory = COGS Your product cost is divided by the sales it generates, and then broken down by department in order to see where you are under or over spending, determining your Gross Profit.


BUSINESS

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REVAMPING SPA MENUS

4

Step Product Portfolio

5

Step

Designing Your Menu A well-designed menu should be consistent with your overall brand, highlighting your spa’s most profitable services. These services should be arranged strategically at the forefront. Choose a design theme with visuals that tell your brand's story. Follow these basic guidelines:

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An update of your existing menu is the ideal time to also re-evaluate your product assortment. If you choose to add a new brand, contact companies that fit your established criteria. Request information and samples, and have your team of key stakeholders conduct a thorough review. Notice a company’s attention to detail and how they operate. Schedule a visit for them to come and present their brand, and consider the following: Was the company prompt and enthusiastic? What kind of support are they willing to offer? Your new vendor will be an integral part of your success, so evaluate and critique every angle possible to determine if they are the right fit.

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REVAMPING SPA MENUS

Design theme

Consider how a theme coordinates with your existing collateral and product lines. Consider your treatment room décor, your treatment table presentation and the scripts your practitioners will use to describe the services.

Menu colors

Bright colors leave an impression that the services are trendy. Cool colors lead guests to anticipate a calmer frame of mind. Black and white is a classic choice for high-end services that speak for themselves. Choose colors and hues that complement your overall concept and support your menu options.

Menu fonts

Calligraphic headings support an intimate, personalized spa experience; scrolled words can add elegance; block lettering can support a more casual spa environment. Two complementary fonts should be chosen and used exclusively in all your collateral materials and communication.

Menu descriptions

Keep the menu space clean and avoid overcrowding with lengthy descriptions. Balance the use of the descriptive words you choose. Establish treatment categories. For example:

1. Choose a heading (Facial Therapies), a tagline (Relax,

Renew, Refresh) and a description (“A collection of exquisite beauty treatments to rejuvenate your delicate epidermis”).

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Your menu is a stand-alone ambassador for your brand, providing your guests with a taste of what your spa is all about. From theme to company values, your spa menu is the representation of your entire spa identity. 

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Melanie Edwards has a dynamic and diverse career of more than 30 years exclusively in the luxury spa and skin care markets. Inspired by her international travels, Edwards opened Essentiels Beauty Clinic in 1991 in Boulder, Colo., and expanded its operations in 1997. She has held senior executive positions with major skin care manufacturers. Edwards currently serves as general manager for SpaCare Group, a division of SpaEquip, Inc. Contact her at melanie@spacaregroup.com.

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Rapidex® Marine Exfoliator This effective, hygienic, unique system is a phenomenon in Asia, combining Marine Hydroxy Acids with a gentle blend of AHA’s and seaweed extracts to create clear, refined and flawless skin in 14 days.

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The

Ins & Outs of Running

A Day Spa STRATEGIES FOR LONG-TERM SUCCESS by Mara Shorr and Jay A. Shorr

I

f you are a spa owner, you probably remember experiencing the following thoughts and emotions when you originally opened: First comes the excitement of going out on your own, being your own boss and accomplishing your dream! It’s thrilling and nothing compares to it. You finally get to spend your days doing what you love!

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But

if you’re like most owners, you soon found out about the laundry list of things no one told you about the BUSINESS of owning a day spa. The reality is that spas continually struggle to course correct what can easily be avoided with the proper systems in place. With that, here is a list of the top things no one told you to do when you are running your own spa.

KEEP RESUMES ON FILE. Always have a bank of resumes for poten-

tial new employees. Whether you’re looking for a new marketing firm, freelancer, additional esthetician or receptionist, you need to have a file of resumes handy. You never know when you’re going to go through a growth spurt — and clients may not settle for having to book appointments a month in advance. You could have a round of turnover if unforeseen circumstances hit, an employee decides not to return from maternity leave or your five-star esthetician moves out of town. Having those resumes ready will save you time on a search.

DEVELOP RELATIONSHIPS WITH YOUR VENDORS. Constantly meet with vendors to learn about new products and training. Make sure you are aware of additions to your favorite skin care line or a new reward system from a massage oil supplier. Keeping that communication line open will serve you well, even though it may seem like a pain to meet with the sales representative. KEEP DETAILED FINANCIAL RECORDS. Detail all of your finan-

cials in your accounting system, not only for tax purposes, but also to examine what your exact expenses and income are, per provider and procedure. Record keeping is key to making sure that you’re making smart business moves. It enables you to see, for example, that you’re overspending on rush shipping due to improper projections, and makes you aware of the amount you’re paying for credit card processing fees. Go into depth when it comes to record keeping — instead of simply categorizing items under “Marketing,” have subcategories like printing, website, print advertising, PPC, etc.

DETER DRAMA. Have a system in place to deter drama; it WILL happen. Emphasize the power of teamwork, and make it clear that you WON’T settle for drama in your spa. If you see it occur, nip it in the bud immediately. A negative employee spreads their attitude in a cancerous fashion. PREVENT THEFT. Connect with a consultant about employee theft prevention for your spa, preferably before you open. Without protective systems in place, theft does happen in the most original of ways. Chances are that you, as the owner, are trusting and don’t mean to foster theft. Unfortunately, that often makes it hard for you to predict theft as well, making it a worthy investment to talk with someone who has seen it hundreds of times. Have a camera system installed and keep checks and balances on all deposited cash. IMPLEMENT PHONE RULES. Invest time in phone training for your receptionist. Instruct them on how to answer the phone, greet clients, answer frequently asked questions and what contact information to collect. It sounds simple, but proper phone training prevents bad habits from previous employers carrying over to your new spa and derailing potential business.

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THE INS AND OUTS OF RUNNING A DAY SPA

PROVIDE RETAIL TRAINING. Make sure that your staff knows how to sell retail. Every staff member should know the benefits of each product, its cost and any specials you are currently running. Ask your vendor for staff samples and encourage staff to utilize each other’s services so they can speak about the benefits. Finally, come up with a sales system and provide sales materials on all products and procedures, and keep your shelves stocked with the appropriate amount of product for your spa. STRENGTHEN YOUR ONLINE PRESENCE. Ideally, you should have a website ready to go before you even open your door. If you don’t already have one, it’s time to create one! Work with a website designer to create a website that has both a beautiful design and strong search engine optimization (SEO) goal. KNOW HOW TO NETWORK. Make sure every member of your staff has business cards to refer clients and patients. In some spas, key staff members, like providers and receptionists, don’t have business cards. Giving them something they can easily hand out to friends, family, colleagues and prospects increases their chances of bringing referrals into your spa. EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE. Everything is negotiable, including employee contracts, the lease, equipment and more. Don’t fall into the trap of paying sticker price for anything. Ask for bulk discounts on wax and backbar items, as well as retail, for example. Work out incentive programs with employees in which they may have a lower base salary but a high bonus if they reach a certain sales goal. This allows everyone to succeed. Make sure you know EXACTLY what’s included in your lease, and negotiate for everything from available signage to cost per square foot and maintenance. You’ll be amazed at what’s available to you if you just ask! CATEGORIZE EMPLOYEES. Define which team members are true employees and which are contractors, and pay them accordingly. How many hours are they in your office each week? Where else are they working? Are they full-time or parttime? All of these elements are important to determine their true status. If you have questions, check with your accountant on the laws in your state.  Jay A. Shorr is the founder and managing partner of The Best Medical Business Solutions. He is also a professional motivational speaker, an advisor to the Certified Aesthetic Consultant program and a certified medical business manager.

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Mara Shorr serves as the vice president of marketing and business development for The Best Medical Business Solutions. She is a national speaker and a Level II and III Certified Aesthetic Consultant. The Shorrs can be contacted at info@thebestmbs.com.

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winks for pink

NovaLash has teamed up with the National Breast Cancer Foundation to provide help and hope. Running through the end of October, the program, Winks for Pink, will contribute a portion of sales to the foundation for each Lash + Doctor sold. Enhance eyelash and eyebrow growth via a conditioning serum, which maintains healthy hair growth without using the hormone prostaglandin.

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BusinessNews

a new era of marketing

world massage festival’s hall of fame inductees

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

Performance Health is pleased to announce that Marshall Dahneke, CEO; Bob Poirier, Vice President of International Commercial Operations; and Guenter Heidenberger, founder of Bon Vital’, were inducted into the World Massage Festival’s Hall of Fame, which annually honors individuals who have furthered the profession of massage therapy. Mike Hinkle established the Festival with the mission to honor those who paved the way for the profession.

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844.PCA.CHAT (722.2428) pcaskin.com

216.731.1280 performancehealth.com

dynamis skin science names john favreau as president

Dr. Annette Tobia, Founder and Chief Executive Officer of Dynamis Skin Science, announced the appointment of John Favreau to the position of President of Dynamis Skin Science. Tobia explained “This appointment marks an exciting new era in the history of Dynamis Skin Science and its MEG 21 with Supplamine® line of anti-aging skin care products.”

877.682.7949 meg21.com

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PCA SKIN has appointed Chris Payne to the position of Chief Marketing Officer. Payne brings more than 15 years of beauty industry experience and has worked with such industry giants as L’Oréal, Clarisonic and Arcade Beauty. He has led marketing teams across all functions and has delivered bestin-class product sampling solutions to the industry’s most coveted beauty brands.

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The Ultimate Guide to Building a Makeup Business by Amy Wall

All spa and salon owners want to be their clients’ go-to source for all things related to their beauty. This means that there will always be an abundance of opportunities to offer your clients makeup applications. The following guidelines provide insight into how to establish a profitable makeup area in your facility.

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MAKEUP GUIDE

1 DO YOUR RESEARCH Check your local market and survey your clients to determine the level of interest for makeup. Will it help grow your business by attracting new clients and increase revenues as your existing clients visit more frequently? Will it help your retail business? Will it provide your staff with new professional opportunities and increase their motivation?

BEGIN WITH INDEPENDENT 2CONSULTANTS

If you are not sure about the marketability of makeup services in your area, do not hire a full staffing department right away. Instead, reach out to experts in the area and contract them to work with your clients. Assemble a team of several specialists so that you have plenty of qualified professionals available for weddings, parties and other big events. Review their portfolios, watch them work on actual clients and assess their personal styles to ensure they reflect your facility. Pay them a percentage of the fee you charge your clients. Create a contract for each contractor that clearly spells out expectations and responsibilities.

3 MAKE ROOM

When you decide to add makeup services to your business, start small. You don’t need to tear your facility apart. You can set up a portable makeup station equipped with storage, display panels and a lighted mirror. Clients should have comfortable chairs to sit in with arm and foot rests. These chairs should be as high as 28 to 32 inches, so the technician does not have to bend over. The makeup station needs to be well-lit. Daylight balanced bulbs should be placed to reflect light on both sides of the face. Lighting from the top only creates unnatural shadows and makes it

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difficult to see the results of the makeup application. The cosmetics counter can be kept in the middle of an active area to create some excitement and draw attention to your makeup services and products. A client receiving a makeup application is often noticed by others, who are then more likely to be tempted to get one for themselves. Make sure there is enough space on the checkout counter for point of purchase displays for products such as lip gloss. These are offered by most makeup lines and provide an easy way to add to your ticket sales while promoting your full range.

THE PERFECT PRODUCT 4PARTNERSHIP

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As a spa or salon owner, selecting the best product line for your business is a big challenge given that there are so many options available. Start with your demographics. Who are your clients? Assess their age, income, shopping

habits and interests. These factors determine your buying decisions, and help you choose a makeup line that works well for your services and creates repeat retail sales.

5 Know Your Ingredients

With today’s makeup lines being geared toward skin care, you can offer products that not only conceal, but heal. Professional mineral makeup lines offer antioxidant protection, as well as physical sun protection. Look for ingredients like vitamins A, C, E and green tea for ageless radiance and allantoin, totarol and olive leaf extract for calming and healing acne prone skin. Other makeup categories include HD (high definition) technology and airbrush. Each has different formulas and ingredient types. Knowing your client base and understanding their needs will help you decide whether to pick a makeup line that can accommodate all skin conditions or is tailored to a specific type.


MAKEUP GUIDE

6

DESIGN A SERVICE MENU

The following four services typically offered in makeup provide a good reference base: • A quick, complimentary touch-up. • A daytime makeup application. This service is typically 20 minutes and the fee ranges from $25 to $40. • The specialty makeup application for a wedding or a black-tie event. This application is generally longer, and the fee ranges from $40 to $70. • A 60-minute step-by-step makeup lesson and a take-home chart in which the steps, tools and colors used are detailed. The price of this service ranges from $65 to $120. The fee is often waived or discounted with a qualifying retail purchase.

YOUR CLIENTS TO 7THEINTRODUCE MIRACLE OF MAKEUP!

Present makeup products and services to clients in the treatment room following their skin care service. A quick application of powder can even out their complexion and cover any signs of redness that might occur after a facial. After quickly applying eye shadow, blush and lip gloss, your client is ready to face the world. Treatment cabins do not need to be stocked with a full array of makeup, just some basic foundation powders, lip and eye colors. Clients leave feeling more put together, and they are exposed to the products and services. If they seem pleased with the results, invite them to schedule a makeup application or lesson later.

fering pre-wedding programs for the wedding party. You can also create and host an event for the bachelorette party!

9 SPREAD THE WORD! Get the message out that your salon is THE place for great makeup. Approach your local television station, magazines, photographers and modeling schools and offer your services. Start building your salon portfolio. Document “Before” and “After” shots to illustrate your work. Compile a look book and leave it in your reception area so clients can flip through it.

Amy Wall is a licensed esthetician and the owner of Mendocino Beauty, where she specializes in anti-aging therapies and bridal beauty. With more than 25 years of hospitality training, Wall focuses on creating unique, personalized experiences for clients. Wall serves on the board of directors for the Mendocino Coast Chamber of Commerce, and is a founding member of spabizboard.com. She can be reached at amy@mendocinobeauty.com.

10Utilize Social Media Current and past clients are your best advertisements. Create a signature #hashtag and encourage your customers to post their selfies wearing your cosmetics. Take before and after photos to post on your website and social media. Run contests highlighting holiday looks and seasonal offerings. n

8 CREATE A WEDDING PROGRAM Bridal beautification is a very big business. If you are working with the bride, you most likely are getting the business of the entire bridal party. Consider of-

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The Ultimate Add-on to Spa Services

by

Hannah Hatcher

A

ccording to analysts at Goldman Sachs, the makeup industry is worth $18 billion. When looking at a typical spa’s total revenue, makeup applications and retail sales present a very exciting, positive opportunity for growth. By implementing fresh new ideas and innovative approaches to promote your makeup business in the spa, makeup applications and retail sales can really grow your business.

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Today's client is very savvy when it comes to product knowledge and interest in ingredients.

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Hannah Hatcher is a makeup artist and global educator for jane iredale. She has been a licensed esthetician since 2002. Hatcher taught post-graduate skin care for seven years with the International Dermal Institute, and now educates artists across the world about jane iredale, inspiring all those she teaches. She thrives on product knowledge and believes that for beautiful makeup results, skin should be the clear and healthy canvas.

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What is

Your Client's

Identifying the archetypes of beauty by Ami Mallon

Every woman has access to a secret weapon that hides her imperfections, enhances her beauty and boosts her self-confidence. In some cases, this weapon can even transform and renew her spirit, making her feel like a superhero. That secret weapon is cosmetics. Why is this exciting for the spa industry? Because makeup in a spa business unlocks the key to controlling this secret weapon and serves as an excellent revenue booster. You might be saying to yourself, “But I don’t do makeup, I’m a spa professional.” Well, let’s talk facts. The majority of women wear cosmetics, as they make us feel better and empowered. Even the most “natural” and non-makeup savvy woman leaves the house with a little tinted moisturizer, mascara and lip gloss.

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The need for the type of empowerment makeup provides particularly applies to women who like to participate in spa-like rituals. Think about it — the first thing a client does when leaving a facial treatment is fix their hair, after which they go to their car and apply makeup. Sadly, the makeup they apply is not always up to the skin care standards they care so much about, and in fact is often filled with chemicals and ingredients that could be detrimental to their skin. Retailing cosmetics is uncomfortable for many spa professionals, as it can make them feel “pushy” or too “salesy.” The key to comfortable retailing is to know your clients and educate them on what’s best for their skin and skin care regimen. If your client isn’t purchasing cosmetics from you, they’re buying them somewhere else, most likely a department, drug or convenience store. You can enhance your retail strategy by knowing what type of cosmetic consumer you are encountering. The best way to be prepared is with a better understanding of your client’s “makeup personality,” and tailoring your approach to that personality.

The No-Makeup Client This woman is a very common spa client. She comes in regularly for treatments but doesn’t know how to use makeup, and possibly doesn’t even feel comfortable adding color to her skin. This gives you the perfect opportunity to discuss the benefits of a health-oriented pharmaceutical grade makeup line versus the traditional cosmetics they might be used to. Treat this client to a complimentary one-on-one makeup application training or class, and stick to the basics — light base, brows, lashes and lips.

The Wallet Conscious Client This client may have initially come to you to cash in on a Groupon or other special offer. She wants to feel pampered, but she also wants a good deal! It’s important to

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MAKEUP GUIDE

start slow for the price-conscious client.

other clients. She has likely been misguided

Emphasize the key benefits and value of

by another beauty professional or simply

each product. Multi-tasking products are

hasn’t changed her look in years — possibly

her favorite, so suggest a concealer that

decades. Be ready for the task of a complete

also serves as an eye base, a three-in-one

makeover. It’s important to be delicate so as

lip product, or a primer and mascara in one.

not to insult or offend her. Ask open-ended

Inform her about the cost per use — she

questions about the look she is going for

will love this!

and nail down a new image! Ask her if she

The Shopaholic Client

prefers a look that is more natural, glamorous, classic or fun. Take the opportunity to show her new techniques and tools to as-

This client already has a ton of products,

sist in creating it.

possibly a full room of them at home! Your

For each type of makeup client you en-

job here is really twofold. First, establish

counter, establish yourself as their go-to

yourself as the expert and explain why the

beauty resource and your spa as the hub

products you sell are better than anything else

of their beauty experience. Keep before

she has in her beauty closet. Next, fill in the

and after photos as a reminder of what the

gaps. Maybe she’s finishing a foundation but

magic of spa and cosmetics can do. Revisit

needs a great concealer to accompany it. Or

these images with every repeat client to help

maybe she’s missing the perfect eyeliner? Once

them keep track of their progress. Whether

you have established yourself as an expert, this

your client wants to rock a glam goddess,

client is easy to convert to a new product line.

naked faced beauty, classic queen, contour

The Adventurous, Experimental Client, aka “The Diva” This client is a favorite among beauty professionals. She loves what’s hot, what’s new, what’s now! She wants to know the latest trends

crazed, glowy strobed or vamp look, you hold the keys to give each and every one of them the complete package!

Once you have established yourself as an expert, this client is easy to convert to a new product line.

Take the opportunity to show her new techniques and tools to CREATE A FRESH LOOK.

and any fresh tips and tricks you might have. She can quote the newest techniques from YouTube beauty gurus and knows which products are favored by the hottest stars. Let her know about any press mentions of the products you retail, as this will make an impression on the diva client. Give her the lowdown on how to create the hippest eye makeup and the lip color worn by her favorite celebrity! Your facility will soon become her beauty mecca, the place she comes to feel glamorous and she’ll be hooked as a regular purchaser.

The Makeover Miracle Client This client is easy to identify because she’s sporting the eyeshadows of yesteryear. She needs more hands-on assistance than your

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Makeup Retail Tips • Provide a discount on products to staff members to ensure they use and love what they are selling. • Offer a color match for foundation following every service. • Hold periodic makeup classes and events with an educational theme. Charge a fee for attendance and allow clients to use the entrance fee toward the purchase of cosmetics. • Display quick touch up products like lip color, CC cream and mascara at the point of purchase. The more products you present to a client, the more likely they are to buy something.

Keys to Makeup Consultation Educate yourself. It’s important to attend trainings to hone in on your makeup skills in order to feel comfortable working on clients.

Practice, practice, practice. Get your hands on anyone you can — sisters, moms, friends… Every face is different and the best way to learn is by doing.

Schmooze! Start the client consultation with a brief chat with the client to establish a positive rapport. Have the client show you photos of what she wants to see in order to establish expectations.

Check in. Before you complete the full look, check in with the client to see if they want any editing done to their look, with blending, lightening, darkening and so forth.

Explain and educate. Don’t let the client leave your spa with a product they don’t know how to use. Train them on any techniques that make the application process easier.

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Ami Mallon is a licensed esthetician and makeup artist. She has worked closely with top spas, medical spas, dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Mallon previously served as the Director of Education for Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare and as a national makeup artist and skin care educator for gloProfessional. Now a freelance artist, she uses her passion and knowledge of skin and cosmetics to educate her clients, creatively and professionally.


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Hosting a In the Spa The new revenue generator by Shawn Towne

T

oday’s consumers are utilizing beauty professionals for more than just a weekly facial or blowout; modern spas and salons have become learning centers for developing complete personal care regimens. Clients now expect education with any service or retail product purchase, but because makeup is frequently an impulse buy, they don’t often opt for a full lesson. Conversely, many professionals don’t have time to give clients impromptu makeup lessons! However, if you let a client go home with products she doesn’t know how to use, you risk fracturing the relationship. She may return the products or stop coming altogether. Transform this risk into an opportunity by offering makeup classes!

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hors d’oeuvres and champagne along with live demonstrations from vendors and employees. This casual, fun environment educates their clients and invariably brings a surge in retail sales, not only at that event but also in the weeks that follow. Educational group events are quickly becoming the new industry standard. They allow beauty professionals to simultaneously educate groups of clients while they have their undivided attention and the professionals are not distracted with upcoming appointments. The following outline can help you get started introducing makeup classes into your spa.

Logistics It is important to plan the time, location and logistics of the makeup class in advance, drawing a diagram of the setup and conducting a mock run-through of the class to ensure it flows smoothly. All the following elements must be taken into consideration:

Concept of a Makeup Class

Educational group events are quickly becoming the new industry standard.

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Effective makeup classes shouldn’t be limited to products the consumer has purchased — they should also introduce her to additional items she may want to buy. The class should be stimulating, fun, engaging and entertaining, enriching your relationships with clients and naturally building their interest in products rather than delivering a hard sell. Anna Noble Churchill, owner of Synergy Spa & Aesthetics in Raleigh, N.C., decided to take her spa’s education offerings a step further than one-on-one makeup lessons by appointment. Synergy hosts social gatherings, advertised in-store and promoted via social media, that fill their location with excited clients. They offer

INSTRUCTOR. The teacher of the class can be an in-house makeup artist — but only if they have strong communication skills and won’t get nervous in front of a group. You can also request an educator or representative from the vendor who provides your makeup. The latter option gives you the opportunity to promote the artist as a special guest, which excites clients. SPACE. Classes should be held in a space large enough to comfortably hold the group you’re hosting and accommodate a workspace for all who are physically working with the products. The area should have walking space for you to maneuver and mingle among your guests. LIGHTING. Clients want to see the instructor’s techniques clearly, so ensure that lighting is bright and clean. If you are using a model, auxiliary umbrella


MAKEUP GUIDE

lights or LED lights are helpful. Make sure that you use bright enough bulbs to illuminate the face of the model. Also, always remember that your best light source for beauty is directly in front of the face, never above it. SCHEDULING. If you plan on using the main salon or waiting area, make sure it is blocked off in the schedule for the event.

Class Structure There are several different types of class formats you can offer: SEMINAR. Have an educator stand in front of the room to talk about products and demonstrate applications. This class format is excellent for larger groups. HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE. Supply all attendees with testers or purchased products to apply as the main educator leads with step-by-step demonstrations. This works best with small groups or private parties. A few professionals should be available to assist attendees. LUNCH AND LEARN. Take a group of VIP customers to lunch at a private room of a local restaurant and show them new products, techniques and styles.

OPEN HOUSE. Have multiple professionals stationed throughout your spa so customers can mingle and experience a variety of educational presentations. WEEKLY CLASS. Take your clients through a step-by-step application instructional focusing on a different layer each week of the month, such as Primer/Foundation, Concealing/ Complexion, Highlight/Contour and Eyes/Lips.

Preparing for an Event If conducting demonstrations, ensure that your testers are clean and aesthetically pleasing. If hosting a hands-on class, ensure there are enough testers and samples to go around. Provide the right tools for optimal results. Brushes are important. Don’t expect customers to learn how to apply eyeshadow with a cotton swab. To cover the costs of these tools, a reservation fee can be applied with the understanding that it goes toward their makeup purchases or covers

the cost of the products they receive to use during the class and take home. Make sure you place a product order for anything you plan to sell before the class. The class should be based around your inventory. Consumers don’t want to place an order for a product, they want to purchase the actual product in the moment while they are excited about it and take it home that day.

Planning and Setup for the Event Let’s break down all of the points into an event rundown, from start to finish. For example, if you’re planning a demonstrative or hands-on class for 10 of your VIP clients: Planning and promoting should begin eight to 10 weeks in advance. Consider an in-store card and social media image with event details that both you and your customers can easily share. Plan your setup and place your tester and sample order at least four weeks

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Marketing To market the makeup class in your spa, place signs at each service station and in your lobby, and have all staff verbally invite clients who come in for treatments and makeup applications to attend and bring friends. Outside the spa, send an email registration to your customer database, share fliers at nearby businesses and use local websites’ event calendar listings as well as social media. Printed and mailed invitations are another form of targeted marketing that can make people feel special.

Post-Event Publicity

Event Rundown in advance and ensure you have the inventory to accommodate customer purchases.

5:45 P.M. TO 6:00 P.M. Guests arrive for refreshments and take their seats.

Set up the designated space classroom style with two long tables that each seat five. Give each seat a lighted magnifying mirror, eye makeup remover, cotton pads and swabs, a set of brushes and an assortment of makeup including the customer’s foundation (which should be pre-matched before the event). Make sure that disposable mascara wands or personal mascara samples are available.

6:00 P.M. TO 6:10 P.M. The educator is introduced and opens the session with a brief breakdown of what the class will entail.

For the educator, set up a makeup chair at the front of the room and a model with a clean face, draped. Position two umbrella lights four feet in front of the model spaced about three feet apart to illuminate her face evenly. Position the makeup tester unit on whichever side the instructor is working from and ensure they have all the brushes, disposables and tools required for the class.

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6:10 P.M. TO 6:50 P.M. The educator applies a series of products to the model’s face while describing the technique, pausing between each product so guests can apply that product to their own face. Staff members walk around the room to assist anyone who needs help. By the end of the class, every guest will have applied a full face of makeup to themselves. 6:50 P.M. TO 7:00 P.M. The educator summarizes the application and opens the floor for final questions. Guests then have the opportunity to purchase all the products they used during the class. Hands on makeup classes bring an excellent return in retail sales.

Word of mouth is a powerful business driver. In addition to verbal conversations, clients can now tell their friends about a great experience or makeup purchase in less than a minute via social media. Encourage this at your makeup class by transforming a table or clean backdrop into an Instagram station for guests to post about their purchases and new makeup looks in the moment. Makeup classes help you utilize all the business-building tools at your disposal. While simply selling is great, selling a skill and an ongoing opportunity for hands-on learning strengthens your relationship with your clients and brings them back time and time again. 

Shawn Towne is a global educator for jane iredale with more than 28 years of makeup artistry experience. Towne’s portfolio includes editorial work in fashion and beauty publications around the world and runway artistry for New York Fashion Week shows by Badgley Mischka, Tracy Reese and Oscar De La Renta. Towne educates professionals across the globe while collaborating on product launches and creative projects for jane iredale. His commentary has been featured in top publications including Allure and Marie Claire.


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Here are four trends that might not all actually be new per se, but their new monikers give you fresh and exciting options to offer your clients...

Strobing is essentially a very stylized highlighting technique, and as we know, highlighting has been around forever. "Enhancing natural features in a subtle, seemingly natural way is something we're seeing grow in popularity and strobing is a great example of that natural enhancement,” says Lana Khoury, lead makeup artist at Spa Biltmore, the spa on property at Arizona Biltmore, A Waldorf Astoria Resort. Khoury uses strobing under the eyebrow to brighten eyes and on the inner eye with a bright white or peach to achieve a wider-eyed look. To best achieve the look, Ashli Carnicelli, a licensed esthetician and corporate educator for Bella Sante Spas in Massachusetts, says that a combination of highlighter and shimmer is applied to the bridge of the nose, upper cheeks, along the hairline on the forehead, temples and chin with a color as close to the client's natural skin tone as possible. "Once applied, use a wedge or a brush to really blend it in to leave that subtle glow that makes your skin look lit from within," she adds. Bauknecht says that this look, which was popular in the 1980s, is not for everyday makeup. "Makeup is about catching the light, especially for photography, and when that flash goes off you want it to really catch that highlighting or strobing on the key features to create brightness and light in the face,” she says. “I do a lot of it for brides and it's used in photo shoots.”

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Non-touring is the backlash against the highly contoured look that the Kardashians have made famous in the past few years. Gone are the sunken cheeks, skeleton-like structure, and sharp edges, now replaced with a softer, subtler look. "As makeup artists we are so happy to see this trend go,” admits Carnicelli. “We all agree that the old-school method of classic contouring using darker shades on the face can make you look harsh and actually older. Focusing on using a highlighter only gives the whole face a glow and a much softer, dewy and therefore youthful look.”

New monikers give you fresh and exciting options to offer your clients...


MAKEUP GUIDE

The rule of thumb, explains Carnicelli, is to highlight the features your client loves. For example, brush a light shimmer powder on the bridge of the nose, the Cupid's bow, upper cheeks, and along the hairline on the forehead. Don’t forget the triangle of light — an upside down diamond shape that is just below the eyes on the cheeks — this flatters all faces.

Baking, a.k.a.

Another "huge trend," according to Bauknecht, is a matte finish look achieved through the process of baking, also known as sandbagging. "It's for those clients who don't want to look dewy, and it makes your skin look perfect for pictures," she says. Baking is a technique in which a lot of translucent powder is layered in the oily areas, such as the forehead, nose and chin for several minutes to bake, or set the makeup. After 10 minutes,

the excess powder is dusted off, leaving a poreless, flawless finish that lasts longer than it would if only a light dusting of powder was used. Bauknecht recommends using mineral makeup because it doesn't settle into lines like some makeup does. Khoury considers this flawless finish the secret to a polished look. "I tend to use the sandbagging technique when I'm working with a bridal party, as it's great for preventing creasing near the corners of the eyes and around the mouth," she says. Carnicelli adds that it's great for people with oily skin or those who need to look great in the sun for a longer duration of time — such as for a daytime beach wedding.

The Under Brow, a.k.a.

bottom of the brow adjacent to the brow hair is lined with a fun, bright color (glitter is hot for this look) using a pencil or powder, or a space of about a half inch is left between the natural brow and the painted brow to give almost a double-rainbow look, which is called a “floating brow”, with a stencil or freehand. "A great example of this is 'It Girl' Gigi Hadid looking very siren-esque walking the runway for Fall 2016 Giambatista Valli with her under brows gilded in silver sparkle and her hair slicked back," notes Carnicelli. What are you waiting for? Refresh your makeup application offerings with these exciting new terms and updated takes on popular beauty trends! 

If your client is planning a night of clubbing and wants something crazy cool, this look is for them! The under brow is done in one of two ways: Either the

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Celebrating the Magic of Makeup…

A woman’s journey to shine inside out! 2

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1. j. edward Professional Treatments • jedwardbeauty.com • 2. Image Skincare No. 101 Flawless Foundation Brush, Conceal & Prime • imageskincare.com • 3. Cara Cosmetics Luxe Matte Lipstick • caracosmetics.com • 4. LashX® by Makeup Mandy Pro Line Treatment • makeupmady.com • 5. Suntegrity Lip C.P.R. • SuntegritySkincare.com • 6. Osmosis Colour Age Defying Treatment Concealor • osmosisskincare.com • 7. Advanced Mineral Makeup Eyeshadow • advancedmineralmakeup.com • 8. Lash Control Lengthening and Conditioning Mascara & ClearCoat Mascara and Brow-Fix • lashcontrol.com 9. POISE Mineral Pressed Powder • poisemakeup.com • 10. Rae Cosmetics Mineral Shadow & Climate Control Moisturizing Mineral Tint • raecosmetics.com 106

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11. NU Evolution Mascara • nuevolutioncosmetics.com • 12. Lira Clinical BB Beautiful Brush & BB Tint 30 with PSC • liraclinical.com • 13. Thalgo Anti-Ageing Foundation • thalgo.com • 14. Babor Mattifying Foundation • babor.com • 15. RepÊchage Perfect Skin Liquid Foundation • repechage.com 16. j.edward Makeup Brush • jedwardbeauty.com • 17. Eve•Pearl HD 40:60 Dual Foundation • evepearl.com 18. institut’ DERMed Cosmetics Eyeliner Fixative• idermed.com • 19. beauty for real I-Line 24-7 Eyeliner, Shadow STX & HI- DEF Defining, Volumizing Mascara • beautyforreal.com • 20. RevitaLash Cosmetics Volumizing Mascara, Defining Liner Eyeliner & Volumizing Primer • revitalash.com

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y l o H

l i s a B

The ancient healing power to promote and preserve youth by Shadoh

Punnapuzha

My travels to India introduced me to the herb tulsi, otherwise known as holy basil. In this region of the world, the sacred plant is omnipresent — it is customary to find the plant in many traditional Hindu homes and it is commonly used in daily life.

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HOLY BASIL

In Hindu mythology, Laxmi, the goddess of fortune, wealth and prosperity is believed to have manifested on earth as the sacred holy basil plant. Hailed as the “Queen of Herbs”, this aromatic herb is truly divine. It has been used for more than 5,000 years in the ancient practice of Ayurveda, which represents a holistic approach to health and disease that focuses on preserving and promoting good health. Holy basil is a shrub in the basil family that is indigenous to India, where it has been an essential part of all worship ceremonies dating back to ancient times. Revered as the “Elixir of Life” within India, holy basil has been adopted into lifestyle practices that provide a vast array of health benefits that are only now being confirmed by modern science. However, the herb has been valued for centuries due to its powerful attributes for the mind, body and spirit. In addition to Ayurveda, it has been used in ancient systems of medicine including Greek, Roman and Siddha, as all parts of the herb have great medicinal value.

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BEAUTY BOOSTER Holy basil is credited with adding luster to the complexion and fostering beauty in a variety of ways. Loaded with antioxidants and other nutrients, it maintains healthy skin and is often used in treatments for skin diseases.

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HOLY BASIL

Anti-acne The anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties found in the Queen of Herbs are very effective in improving the condition of acne prone skin. Taken internally, holy basil can reduce acne-causing bacteria and alleviate breakouts while giving the skin a beautiful glow. Topically, incorporating the ground herb into a face mask helps pull impurities out from the pores while refining the skin. Simply adding a few drops of holy basil essential oil to a serum on a regular basis can offer quick relief from eruptions and prevent future breakouts.

Anti-aging Historically, royals in India used holy basil both internally and topically to fight aging. Ayurvedic physicians incorporated this powerful herb into the daily regimen of royalty and aristocrats to keep their skin looking youthful and vibrant while warding off illnesses. Its exceptionally high antioxidant value helps to reduce the damaging effects of stress and delays signs of aging. Applying a few drops of holy basil essential oil to the affected areas on a daily basis can help diminish fine lines and wrinkles, and fight free radical damage encountered from pollution, toxins and pesticides.

Antiinflammatory Holy basil reduces inflammation on the skin and is compatible with even the most sensitive skin types, something I know from personal experience. During my childhood, I recall my father frequently rubbing the leaves of a tulsi plant on my bug bites to reduce the itching and inflammation. As a natural remedy I would also rub the leaves on

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my body to keep mosquitos at bay. Taking a few drops of holy basil extract or creating a paste from the dried leaves can deliver significant antiinflammatory benefits to the targeted area. Using a toner containing this ingredient helps prevent and soothe skin irritations, as well as reduce redness. Research has shown that using holy basil oil in place of certain steroid treatments for inflammation is a safe alternative that is just as effective.

Promotes healthy hair Holy basil can help support healthy, lustrous hair in several ways. A mixture of coconut and holy basil oil massaged onto the scalp can cool it down and ease itching. When left on hair for 30 minutes to an hour before rinsing out, this mask helps promote blood circulation in the scalp, leading to strong hair follicles. Holy basil also helps hydrate the scalp, restoring the balance to lessen dandruff symptoms. When applied regularly, holy basil can even reduce hair loss.

These therapeutic qualities make it especially beneficial for people who have undergone laser treatments, peels and microdermabrasion. After finishing a treatment, applying a toner or serum containing holy basil to skin provides calming and restorative properties.

STRESS BUSTING BONUS Holy basil has a soothing effect on the nervous system. Its high flavonoid content makes it a beneficial healing agent for bodies undergoing chronic stress. In addition to these flavonoids, vitamin C and other antioxidants found in holy basil help soothe the nerves and lower blood pressure. Additionally, studies show it helps lower cortisol levels to maintain a normal concentration of the notorious “stress hormone” in the body. Treat your clients to this feel good benefit by offering them a delicious cup of holy basil tea prior to their treatments!

Aids in wound healing Holy basil’s unique combination of antiseptic and antibacterial properties allows for remarkable wound healing benefits. Research shows that holy basil helps accelerate the skin’s recovery process, reduce redness and encourage the healing of wounds. It works naturally to heal many skin irritations and bacterial infections. It is also high in vitamin K, which helps the skin heal faster and bruises to fade quickly.

Shadoh Punnapuzha is the founder and CEO of Arya Essentials. Punnapuzha formulates all-natural luxury skin care products that are inspired by the principles of Ayurveda, working with Ayurvedic doctors in India to provide authentic skin care based on this time-honored science. For more information, visit Aryaessentials.com or contact her at info@aryaessentials.com.


This fall give your clients

Lashes they Love, Brazen Brows, Healthier Hair, Revitalized Skin

Find out more about our award-winning and clinically proven RapidLine family of products FREE merchandising displays and RapidLash full-size samples for staff with orders placed in October* Contact us:

877.760.6677 • info@rocasuba.com * Up to 4 samples per location

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“When eye contact between two people is initiated and maintained, an invisible energetic circuit is established between the two participants, dissolving the barriers that ordinarily separate them from each other, drawing them ever closer into a shared awareness of union.” -Jalāl ad-Dīn Muhammad Rūmī 114

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the next spa trend

The Magic

Eye Contact of

Where The Soul Catches Fire by JOLENNY PIEDRA

he trend toward holistic health in the spa industry is unmistakable. More than ever, spas are looking for innovative new ways to offer clients experiences that incorporate wellness of the mind, body and spirit. While the current paradigm of healing in the world of holistic health is leaning more toward solo practices such as meditation, yoga and individualized self care, the eye gazing experience — a complementary contrast to this trend — has rallied to spread the integral addition of interpersonal connection into this picture of optimal human health. The eye gazing experience accesses emotional, physical and spiritual healing through human connection.

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ollective healing practices such as eye gazing may be helpful in bridging the gap between mindfulness, spirituality and everyday living. Beyond healing the mind and body, it aims to nourish the heart and spirit, goals that have become highly relevant in the modern spa world.

A Deeper Connection To really see and be seen by another is, in and of itself, a powerful healing tool. How often do we really allow ourselves to make deep contact with another human being? According to business insider writer AJ Harbinger, “The simple act of holding someone’s gaze — whether it’s a new person, a prospective employer or an old friend — has the power to ignite or deepen a relationship.”

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The truth, however, is that prolonged eye contact is no longer well practiced due to a fast moving, technically inclined society. According to communications analytics company Quanti-fied Impressions, while adults generally hold eye contact between 30 and 60 percent of the time, an average of 60 to 70 percent is necessary to create a sense of emotional connection. Today, relationships tend to be generally transactional; one person gives and the other receives. In the process of eye gazing, participants are invited to the experience of receiving, which may be foreign to them. The quality of one’s interpersonal connections is a powerful indication of their level of peace and happiness. In the article, “Social Relationships and Health, A Flashpoint for Health Policy,” authors Umberson and Montez from the University of Texas reveal that “re-

lationships — both quantity and quality — affect mental health, health behavior, physical health and mortality risk.” Simple eye contact alone is a catalyst for improving one’s sense of emotional connection. Eye gazing takes the psychological benefits of eye contact and multiplies them by a hundred-fold.

The Experience The actual act of eye gazing has been known for centuries in the realm of Buddhist tradition and spiritual psychology. The modern practice of eye gazing distills the power of the exercise into a universally accessible practice. In this model of eye gazing, participants, organically paired into couples, make direct, uninterrupted eye contact that lasts between 60 seconds and five minutes.


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TRAINING Facilitators of eye gazing must complete a two-day comprehensive training module, after which they receive a certificate of completion.

During an eye gazing session, the facilitator invites participants on a journey through the exploration of uplifting and healing emotions. They are asked to remain silent during the process and to follow the guidance that is being extended, while carefully selected music plays in the background. As the invitation is accepted, one is met with the deepening of the experience, of each emotion being lovingly mirrored by the other. These shared moments are intended to bring participants to a space of genuine human connection. A brief closing practice follows the session, which aims to integrate and ground all that was prompted by the experience.

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Healing Power Eye gazing as a practice can be a very powerful healing method, as it assists us in recognizing the one before us as ourselves. It directly challenges the illusion of separation and offers us the chance to repeatedly taste our fundamental unity. Some profess that eye gazing has opened the door to a new way of being and seeing the world both inside and outside of oneself. On an energetic level, powerful healing waves can be felt and sensed throughout the room, triggering a sense of deep unity with everyone present and with all that is.

Photos by: Erik Lieux

Touches the Soul During the exchange, participants may experience a profound meditative state. The process of eye gazing invites its participants to remember their innate value. The more an individual can accept and surrender whatever may come up emotionally, the deeper they are able to go and, thus, the richer their experience is. The idea of being seen without the need to say or do anything in order to be appreciated has a remarkable effect on the psyche.


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recommended price of the experience is $45 per person. With the positive impact that eye gazing has on the body, mind and spirit, it is likely to soon be on the cuttingedge of trends, with spas all around the world incorporating eye gazing as a practice into their line of holistic offerings. ď‚Ą

Jolenny Piedra is the founder of the Eye Gazing Experience and Sacred Soul Living. She is a

Implement Into Your Spa

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It is surprisingly easy to implement eye gazing sessions into your spa. It is ideal to provide items such as meditation pillows, mats, chairs and blankets to ensure that participants are comfortable

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Photo by: Jorge Otero

heart centered transformational coach and a practicing spiritual counselor. She has rallied to spread the integral addition

throughout the experience. Any size space is acceptable for an eye gazing session, although a minimum of 10 participants is recommended. A complete eye gazing experience generally takes between 45 minutes and an hour. The

of person-to-person connection via the Eye Gazing Experience and one-on-one sessions with those who feel called to work with her. Learn more about Piedra and becoming an eye gazing facilitator by visiting her website at sacredsoulliving.com.


888.388.6456 niko.com

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR

Give clients an invitation to lean in closer. Natural Breath Mist from Moondani cures bad breath instead of just masking it. The 100 percent organic mint spray, with a blend of herbs inspired by ancient Middle Eastern customs, contains no additives, preservatives, alcohols or sugar, and is vegan and cruelty-free. Freshness that lasts for hours easily fits into a purse or pocket.

BERRY SENSATIONAL

moondaninaturals.com

Pack a powerful punch with nature. Arbor announces Organic Maqui Berry Face Firming Serum. Potent antioxidants nourish and heal the skin with high concentrations of polyphenols, anthocyanins and vitamin C. This newest superfood enhances the synthesis of collagen and lightens skin complexion, leaving skin firm and youngerlooking within minutes. Clients enjoy multiple antiaging properties with safe, immediate and lasting results.

800.676.1424 iamarbor.com

SUGAR BE GONE

Drink your beauty! Osmosis Skincare Sugar Detox Harmonized Water is specifically designed to provide bio-frequencies that help balance the pancreas, improve sugar utilization, detoxify sweeteners in the liver, balance nerve damage associated with diabetes and help control sugar levels. Reduce the effects of glycation on the skin daily with this refresher.

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Niko Organics’ Sage Deodorant offers a way to beat sweat and odor with United States Department of Agriculture Certified Organic ingredients that additionally adhere to the strict guidelines of the USDA NOP program. The 100 percent organic ingredients in this deodorant provide all-day freshness and are completely free of aluminum salts and toxic chemicals. Explore a greener product that both genders love.

Organic & Wellness News

100% ORGANIC DEODORANT

877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com

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Tapping into the Cruise Ship Wedding Craze

Business Advice For Beauty Professionals With Mellisa Coates

owner of Cocoa Beach Spa in Cocoa Beach, FL

SERVICE AND RETAIL

How did you do it?

When did you decide to add makeup services to your spa menu? In 2008 we saw a niche that needed to be filled. Our spa does hair for weddings and we saw an opportunity to also provide makeup services. We are five minutes away from Port Canaveral, Fla., in Brevard County and cruise ship weddings are quite popular. The next logical step was to figure out and address gaps. We put makeup services on our menu to great success.

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The bridal industry can be competitive and we knew we had to offer something that no one else was doing. Cruise ship weddings take place at 10 in the morning. The ship’s salon is not open by then and only registered passengers can use it. Wedding guests who are not also sailing with the happy couple were challenged to find a spa that would be open to accommodate their schedule so early in the morning. We made the decision to open at 6 a.m. for those who place a reservation.

How did you select makeup artists? Our makeup artists were selected inhouse. The stylists who are so great with hair and bridal facials are also trained in the artistry of makeup. We specialize and diligently train in a look that is natural, photographs well and looks great in person. Our clients are able to enjoy a consistent aesthetic that has become our calling card.

What is the key to your makeup services’ popularity? Our bridal makeup services are very


successful because they are designed around the client. They require quite a bit of coordination. We provide space for varying sizes of bridal parties and work to create a once in a lifetime experience for clients’ special day. Our specialty is to have makeup look natural but coordinates with flash photography. We create a perfect photogenic palette for brides and their guests. Our top two priorities are ingredients and performance. It is crucial to maintain a level of trust with clients by delivering a look with high-quality components.

MAKEUP AREA How much space is dedicated to the makeup area compared to the rest of the spa? Lights! Mirror! Chair! We have a dedicated hair station that is 5 by 7 feet. We also have shelves in our retail area where clients can purchase the products used. As the demand grows for bridal makeup services, we are looking to expand in 2017.

MARKETING How do you promote your makeup services? Each month we send out a newsletter that is in tune with the seasons. October is a big wedding month here and December is engagement season. We follow the flow of the seasons and cater to specific needs during those times. On social media, particularly Facebook, we market specials that are singular to that platform.

Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment? Team members offer touchups after facials or after hair styling for clients to put their best face forward to the world. After a facial, skin is perfectly

primed for makeup application. We use products that nourish skin and enhance the spa experience. As for promoting makeup services, we have had such strong word of mouth since we starting offering application that we lightly suggest touch ups but clients generally do all the requesting.

AMBIANCE

STANDING OUT

Do you have rituals or methods of creating positive energy for your spa?

What does your business do that makes it unique from the competition?

We want all of our guests to enjoy their experience as much as possible. We light scented candles to set a relaxing, yet invigorating mood. Snacks are provided because if we begin working with a bridal party at 6 a.m., they may be hungry as the session continues.

POLICIES What is your cancellation policy, and how did you come up with it? Our policies follow the industry standards. We do have one unique policy, however. To accommodate the schedule of cruise ship weddings, we open at 6 a.m. by reservation only. To serve this need but also protect the integrity of our staff’s time, we designed a bridal agreement that is in essence a logistics policy. This agreement specifies that a credit card must be given to hold the time slot and to vouch for payment of our team members. One-hundred percent of the services will be charged to prevent last minute cancellations or no shows. Our policy works well for both clients and staff.

We accommodate early morning wedding schedules. In business, it is important to identify a niche and create a draw. Early morning hours best serve the local industry of cruise ship weddings. Clients are able to look exactly how they want for their big day without worrying about the logistics of their guests.

ADVICE What advice would you pass along to other spa owners and those in the prime of their journey? Always value your clients. Every client is wonderful and unique and it is important that each one has exactly the experience they want, especially on the most important day of their life.

We want to k how YOU d now id it! Shar

e your in sight on incorporatin g makeup se rv ices into your spa with us, and you may be featured in an upcomin g edition of Les Nouvelle s Esthétique s & Spa. Simply send an email (5 0 to 100 words) to am anda@LNEo nline.com. Together, le t's build a community one word at a time!

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photographed by Daren Thomas

Fall is here and change is welcome in the world of beauty. This season makeup artist Pamela Taylor welcomes the change with unstructured brows, arced eye shadow, strategic splashes of glitter and deep, saturated shades of lip color.

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Hair by Angela Calisti, NY

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Arc of color. Create a stroke of open-ended color that mimics the shape of the brow. Use a pencil thin liner, or, as shown, a thicker arc in a monochromatic hue of blue. Glitter goes where? Follow this trend by adding some glitter. Strategically applied, glitter brings attention to the eyes, cheeks and/or lips. Inviting colors in saturated, rich shades, from red wine to deep goth-like darkness, are strong this season. Line divine. Grape and pure color shadow liners pair with coordinating lip stains. Try any combination — experiment with color! Brow envy. Brows command the attention they deserve. Even when going au naturel, the brows are awakened with strokes of color brushed to create fullness, unlike the structured look of the past season.

Pamela Taylor is a recognized authority in editorial print and fashion makeup. Known for her Hydration Technique, she is an internationally published author, educator and speaker on current makeup trends and techniques. Taylor boasts an extensive celebrity clientele. She is owner of the Pamela Taylor Makeup Academy

& Taylor on tour. For more information, visit pamelataylor.com or call 212.620.5792.

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REPAIR. REPLENISH. RENEW. Real Solutions. Noticeable Results.

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In-office treatment products: Pro Peel Prep Pro C Peel System 3 peel strengths SLC 24, 40, or 50

Agera Labs unique multi-layer chemical peels provide real solutions for skin that is troubled with Acne, Acne Scarring, Hyperpigmentation, Fine Lines & Wrinkles. Expected Results: *Treat acne & reverse acne scarring *Fade dark spots & prevent hyperpigmentation *Helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles *Tighten & Brighten skin

For more information: www.ageralabs.com 877.656.5188

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a dynamic makeup duo

Conceal. Camouflage. Correct. Osmosis Skincare’s Colour Age Defying Treatment Concealer camouflages and corrects with an amazing concealer and a twist up, skin-plumping moisture balm. Saturated pigments offer buildable coverage while correcting smooth lines and wrinkles. Argan oil, apricot oil, coconut oil, shea butter and vitamin E create a harmonious blend to nourish delicate areas, plumping and softening wrinkles around the eyes, mouth and lips.

877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com

DAZZLE THEIR LIDS

Make each kiss memorable. Repêchage’s Perfect Skin Conditioning Lip Gloss gives pouts a naturally nourished texture and sheen. Ascophyllum nodosum seaweed and shea butter provide minerals, while mafura oil adds the perfect finishing touch as well as essential fatty acids. For kissable lips that will always be in style, this gloss conditions to make lips look as well as feel amazing.

877.696.2220 eccobella.com

800.248.SKIN (7546) repechage.com

8 hours to a nourished scalp

Wake up to a revived scalp. Strengthen hair with Pura D’or’s Hair Loss Prevention Therapy Energizing Scalp Serum. The natural formulation was specifically developed to work overnight by revitalizing follicles and increasing elasticity. Skullcap root extract energizes the scalp alongside European wood extract, which fights free radicals and protects the scalp. Perfect for clients experiencing itching and hair loss due to breakage.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

kissable hydration

Image News

Maximize the color of client irises and showcase peepers with Eco Bella’s perfect eye shadow shades. Each hue contains flower wax-enriched formulas that work to help colors smoothly glide onto the lid and stay true during the day by combatting moisture. Both gluten-free and vegan, all shadows are naturally preserved.

855.787.2367 purador.com

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ADVERTISER INDEX

Reader Service No.

Page Number 128............... Agera Labs........................................................................ ageralabs.com...........................................................................221 63................. Altair Instruments.............................................................. altairinstruments.com..................................................................243 29................. Athena Beauty.................................................................. athenabeauty.com.......................................................................162 50................. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics............................ beauinstitute.com.......................................................................167 10................. Bella Schneider Beauty..................................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com...........................................................180 6,7................ Bio-Therapeutic................................................................ bio-therapeutic.com....................................................................139 46................. Bio Jouvance.................................................................... biojouvance.com.........................................................................140 67................. Blinc Inc............................................................................ blincinc.com...............................................................................226 47................. Booker.............................................................................. booker.com/lnespa.....................................................................154 24................. Calvet Cosmetics / SilcSkin............................................... silcskin.com................................................................................185 27................. Decleor............................................................................. decleorusa.com...........................................................................257 50................. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc............................................... dr-jeff.com..................................................................................248 2,3................ Éminence Organic Skin Care............................................ eminenceorganics.com................................................................157 131............... Equipro USA..................................................................... equipro-bty.com..........................................................................242 51................. Glymed Plus...................................................................... glymedplus.com.........................................................................303 16,17,25....... Grandelash MD................................................................. grandelashmd.com....................................................................286 4,5................ Hydrafacial........................................................................ edgeforlife.com...........................................................................201 53-58........... Int’ Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami....................... miami.skincareshows.com 9................... Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics................... ladyburd.com..............................................................................119 49................. Lira Clinical....................................................................... liraclinical.com...........................................................................203 35................. Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research............................ lucrece.com................................................................................263 69................. Methode Brigitte Kettner................................................. mbkskincare.com........................................................................329 70................. Nature Pure Labs.............................................................. naturepure.com...........................................................................316 132............... Nelly Devuyst / Derme & Co............................................ derme.ca....................................................................................124 59................. Nouveau Contour............................................................. nouveaucontourusa.com...........................................................186 71................. PhotoMedex..................................................................... radiancy.com..............................................................................327 39................. PurErb Skin Care............................................................... purerbskincare.com...................................................................294 101............... Provence Cosmetics......................................................... provencecosmetics.com............................................................335 113............... RapidLash......................................................................... rapidlash.com............................................................................224 77................. RéjuvaSea......................................................................... rejuvasea.com.............................................................................246 119............... Rejuvi Laboratory.............................................................. rejuvilab.com..............................................................................149 72,73............ Repêchage........................................................................ repechage.com...........................................................................196 41................. RevitaLash......................................................................... revitalash.com.............................................................................346 111............... Rhonda Allison.................................................................. rhondaallison.com.....................................................................190 23................. Satin Smooth.................................................................... satinsmooth.com.......................................................................304 110............... Select Spa Source / Hairaway........................................... selectspa.com............................................................................253 11................. Shira.................................................................................. shiraesthetics.com.....................................................................249 117............... Skin Blends....................................................................... skinblends.com...........................................................................283 120............... Skin for Life....................................................................... skinforlife.com.............................................................................156 95................. TiZo................................................................................... tizofusion.com.............................................................................305 40................. To Go Spa......................................................................... togospa.com..............................................................................285 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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