LNE & Spa - January 2017 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals January 2017

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from the

editor 2017 is finally here!!! Let’s usher in the values of mindfulness, personal growth, happiness and love and start the new year with this beautiful quote from John Lennon: “It matters not who you love, where you love, why you love, when you love, or how you love, it only matters that you love.” Our industry’s foundation is love, as it constantly provides positivity and encouragement through innovation that changes people’s lives for the better. The spa and wellness industry is constantly introducing new approaches to help people become their best, most balanced selves, boosting their well-being and happiness. In many cases, the leading “new” concepts are actually revivals of historical practices dating back to ancient times. We kick off the year with an in-depth look at one of these concepts in our Cupping Guide this month. Thanks in part to the recent summer Olympics, the benefits of cupping have been brought into Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

the spotlight, and its wide variety of applications

has gained broader recognition in the spa community. Turn to page 65 and explore how this ancient cultural practice is being incorporated into modern spas to meet the needs of today’s clients. Let’s look forward to a positive, enlightening year ahead in 2017!

— Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com

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Skin Care for life inside and out®

sonic

PROFESSIONAL MICROSONIC CLEANSING BRUSH

bio-therapeutic.com

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january volume 32 number 1

cover

Franck Provost

contents

It matters not who you love, where you love, why you love, when you love, or how you love, it only matters that you love. - John Lennon

Skin Energy!

Cupping Guide

Oxygen Intake

Cupping Therapy

Facial Bar

Choosing a Cup

Skin News

Facial Cupping

Cupping Massage

guide

65 Cupping Guide

Spa of the Month

Fermented Ingredients

Face, Neck & Décolleté

Mindfulness in Your Spa

Spa News

Healthy Aging Versus Anti-aging

o&w

14 Skin Energy!

102 Organic and Wellness News

38 Face, Neck & Décolleté

98 Healthy Aging Versus Anti-aging

Behind the Spa Door with Leslie Crowell

104 Business Advice for Beauty

21 Days to Habit Building

Client Satisfaction

Business News

56 Client Satisfaction

image

business

spa

skin

6 From the Editor 114 Advertiser Index

Professionals with Christy Apitsch 106 OptimEYES 112 Image News

106 OptimEYES

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial Assistant & Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Alan Araya alan@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer webdeveloper@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

ST L E B EA D

C ontributors Rhonda Allison Alma Bocanegra Carrie Borzillo Barbara Byrne Leslie L. DeMatteo

Donna Dodier Robyn Lynn Green Jaklin Idris Danae Markland Linda Marrical Kristina Mazzenga

Don Owen, Ph.D. Anita Shannon Shawn Towne Amanda Clinton Winter Lynda Solien-Wolfe

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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NEW Look

ING LASH OK

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NGER LO LO O

TESTED

ALTHIER L HE O

DERMA

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PROVED IM L

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OG TOL I

LLY • CA

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P H AP EARA AS

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RE VISIB MO L

COMING 2017

G LASHE S KIN

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MICRONEEDLING THE LATEST ADVANCE IN AESTHETICS The Third & Ultimate Generation in Microneedling for Estheticians How Dr. Gabriel Serrano created the ultimate Microneedling toolâ&#x20AC;¦

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PROMOTION

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Skin can reach a certain age in good condition if the right products are used in combination with the right tools.

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SKIN energy! The Ultimate Power of Healthy Skin by Jaklin Idris

IT’S NO SECRET that feeling tired leads to dull and lifeless looking skin. The concept of skin energy is about more than looking refreshed and youthful. Skin that is energized gives off an overall aura and sense of emotional and physical well-being — the way the body exudes energy beyond the physical aspect. In recent years the beauty industry has seen a shift in how women view anti-aging. In addition to focusing on wrinkles and fine lines, women want their skin to reflect their inner youth and state of mind, one that is filled with confidence, energy and vitality. However, this “inner energy” is sometimes difficult to capture and display in the complexion. In fact, lack of energy is a true skin condition that results from temporary or long-term stress exposure, such as lack of sleep, environmental factors (pollution, free radicals, etc.), poor diet and more, which prevents the skin from performing optimally. The symptoms can be multi-faceted and seen through skin inflammation, dryness, blotchiness, breakouts, damaged complexion, impaired elasticity and increased glycation. That begs the million dollar question...

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skin skin energy!

For healthier skin via a boosted immune system, advise your clients to eat plenty of antioxidant-rich fruits and vegetables, particularly foods with a high ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) value, such as pomegranates, blueberries and cranberries.

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skin skin energy!

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skin skin energy!

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Jaklin Idris, the director of education for DECLÉOR and CARITA Paris, has nearly 20 years of experience working in education with professional skin care and luxury products, including more than 13 years in key education and training roles for Darphin, Estée Lauder and Origins. Most recently, as

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VP of Marketing and Business Development for Kat Burki, Idris gained valuable brand and market development experience. A licensed esthetician, Idris is also certified in Reiki.

...see your spa in a whole new light!

Peninsula Hotel, Beverly Hills, CA

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Kona

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The Peninsula, Beverly Hills

Celluma light therapy offers the precision and efficacy that our guests at the Four Seasons Spa Wailea have come to expect... With integrated blue, red and infrared light therapy, we are able to confidently treat skin concerns like acne, rosacea, sun damage, loss of elasticity in the skin as well as post injection/contouring bruising. The blue light kills bacteria, while the red light stimulates the fibroblast that strengthen and tone the skin. The infra-red light penetrates deeper addressing bruising, inflammation and pain in joints and muscles. Both our aestheticians and massage therapists are thrilled to implement Celluma light therapy because they are confident that our guest will feel and see the difference.

”

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Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

Advanced LED Light Therapy

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oxygen

intake

Breathing New Life Into Skin

Oxygen — it’s absolutely essential to all living organisms. It’s what brings life, vitality and energy to our cells, and in skin care, oxygen plumps the skin, stimulates circulation and respiration and revitalizes cells — not to mention that it’s absolutely essential to healthy skin function. With oxygen being the third-most abundant element in the universe, just behind hydrogen and helium, you might be wondering if the air we breathe and that which surrounds us is enough to keep the skin sufficiently supplied.

by Rhonda Allison

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skin oxygen intake

Typically, yes. But when it’s not enough — due to environmental aggressors and lifestyle choices — skin can become dull, depleted, sluggish and more susceptible to certain issues like hyperpigmentation and acne. How do you help clients boost their skin’s oxygen intake and bring respiration and vitality back to the cells? It involves a mix of education, professional treatments and the right home care.

Oxygen: What it is and what it does It may seem elementary to discuss what oxygen is, but there are some interesting facts you may not know about this all-important element. O2, the formula most of us identity as oxygen, is actually called dioxygen, and it is an important part of the Earth’s atmosphere and a major component of the organic molecules in living organisms, including proteins, fats, carbohydrates and nucleic acids. Dioxygen is also used in cellular respiration. A majority of the mass of living creatures is oxygen as a component of water, which makes up approximately 50 to 65 percent of the body. Oxygen is an absolute necessity to life. Consequently, it is an essential factor to the health and vitality of skin. All cells require natural oxygen. It is an important component in cellular respiration, and thus adenosine triphosphate (ATP) — and the energy it provides our cells — enables not only respiration, but also detoxification. In fact, stable natural oxygen increases skin cell metabolism, and stimulates the body's natural healing function through its anti-inflammatory and collagen-generating qualities. Because oxygen increases circulation and stimulates cellular regeneration, it naturally plumps the skin and gives it a glowing, refreshed appearance.

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Effects and causes of low oxygen Despite the fact that we are surrounded by and primarily composed of oxygen, our skin often needs additional support simply because it has to contend with environmental toxins, stress, lack of sleep, diet… and the list goes on. While some of these oxygen-depleting culprits may be removed, others cannot. Supporting the skin with ingredients that help boost respiration and allow oxygen to be received by the cells is important to achieving optimal skin health. When the skin is deprived of oxygen, it may appear dull, sullen and simply not as vibrant. It may also become dehydrated, which creates a condi-

When skin is deprived of oxygen, it may appear dull, sullen and simply not as vibrant.

skin oxygen intake

tion for fine lines and wrinkles to occur. Additionally, when oxygen is lacking, the skin’s ability to heal and repair becomes compromised — it no longer bounces back as quickly as it used to. Furthermore, for acne-prone skin, oxygen is essential. When the supply to the pores is inadequate, it causes the bacteria that naturally occurs within pores to thrive, which manifests as congestion and comedones. When debris in the cells block oxygen intake, hyperpigmentation issues may occur as well. The skin is naturally vulnerable to depletion as the main shield of our internal system. As part of the aging process, skin inherently loses some of its original oxygen and water level — and the body’s natural ability to consume and retain oxygen becomes limited. Again, lifestyle is a key contributing factor to healthy oxygen intake levels. Environmental aggressors like air pollution and excess exposure to the sun impact oxygen. In addition, chronic stress, lack of sleep, smoking and a poor diet all work against the skin’s oxygen levels and intake capabilities. When overexposed to these elements, with-

out replenishment or doing anything to counteract it, the skin’s ability to rejuvenate itself is further compromised.

A breath of air: Replenishing oxygen There are numerous topical ingredients and professional treatments that help bring about respiration and thus oxygenation; however, proper preparation is imperative. For optimal results with any treatment or home regimen focused on respiration, proper cleansing is step one. A good enzyme is also an important element, as it speeds the process of cell digestion and paves the way for oxygen and other nourishing ingredients to actually penetrate deep into the cells. Following the cleansing step, an antioxidant-rich purifying lotion helps nourish the skin and neutralize free-radical damage. A multi-acid cell conditioning formula further stimulates collagen activity and prepares the skin for the enzyme or acid treatment, and enables the skin to properly absorb oxygen.

A physical exfoliator followed by an emulsifier comprising salicylic acid, glycolic acid, L-lactic acid, and the key ingredient, hydrogen peroxide, improves absorption, stimulates blood flow, and increases oxygenation and tissue respiration. It also helps boost the skin’s ability to detoxify, loosen trapped surface debris and brighten tone. At this point, a microdermabrasion treatment can offer deeper rejuvenation and create a path for topical ingredients to supply cells with energy-giving nutrients. Look to peptide- and antioxidantrich serums to support respiration and healthy skin repair.

N OT E! OXYGEN (OR DIOXYGEN) COMPRISES TWO ATOMS. THE SINGLE OXYGEN ATOM IS A FREE RADICAL. THESE ATOMS ARE UNSTABLE AND ACTUALLY OXIDIZE CELLS, HOWEVER THE DAMAGE CAN BE NEUTRALIZED WITH ANTIOXIDANT INGREDIENTS. THUS, INFUSING THEM DURING AN OXYGEN TREATMENT BOOSTS THE REPAIR EFFECT.

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skin oxygen intake

Ingredients to support tissue respiration Which ingredients help promote respiration and health ATP function? While every skin is different and will require a truly tailored approach, there are a few ingredients that work particularly well to promote respiration. Some of these include: • FLOWER ACIDS – Lotus flower extract silcskin_ad.pdf 1 11/17/16 contains leghemoglobin, which mimics

hemoglobin and myoglobin, acting as a catalyst to boost respiration in the skin cells and promote ATP. • RETINOL – Among its numerous benefits, retinol increases circulation and strengthens blood vessels. • HYDROGEN PEROXIDE – When combined with other acids like glycolic, salicylic and L-lactic acid, hydrogen peroxide increases respiration and detoxification and brightens skin tone. • THERMUS THERMOPHILUS 4:37 PM FERMENT EXTRACT – An algae from

CMY

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deep-sea vents, this ingredient assists in ATP (adenosine triphosphate) production, the cell’s main energy source, as well as healthy tissue respiration. It also protects against environmental aggressors. • HYALURONIC ACID – This deeply hydrating ingredient prevents transepidermal water loss, and helps cells retain water content, which contains important oxygen levels. Antioxidants and peptides are also important ingredients to integrate into a tissue respiration treatment, whether in the treatment room or at home. Antioxidants help repair and restore cellular health, while promoting cellular energy. Peptides, sequences of amino acids, help strengthen cells and repair damage caused by free radicals. For home care, your clients should incorporate a good cleanser, a corrective like retinol to stimulate cellular regeneration and respiration, skin-building ingredients like antioxidants and peptides, and a natural mineral-based sun protection formula. Also talk to clients about lifestyle changes they can incorporate to oxygenate the skin, including exercise, eating more life-giving foods, reducing sun exposure, getting adequate sleep and working to reduce stress levels. If your client’s skin is in need of a recharge, a tissue respiration treatment may be the solution. When the skin is properly prepped then infused with ingredients that stimulate respiration, support healthy ATP and improve oxygen absorption, the result is plump, hydrated, healthy and vibrant looking skin. In other words, this treatment will recharge the skin’s batteries — or in this case, cells. 

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years’ of esthetic experience. Visit RhondaAllison.com and RAmethod.com for more information.

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“Inspired by Nature... realized by Science.”

LU C R È C E P H Y S I C I A N S ’ A ES T H ETI C R ES EAR CH | 800.626.7546 • www.lu c rece.com LNEonline.com january2017 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

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FACIAL Bar Speedy services to boost your revenue flow by Kristina Mazzenga

GREAT SKIN IS AN INVESTMENT.

Given the hustle and bustle of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world, having time for a full facial is not always an option for many of your clients. An express facial, or facial blowout, is the latest innovative revenue opportunity for spas in the United States. These speedy services do not replace longer treatments, but they can be used as a maintenance tool in between longer skin treatments or for those who do not have the time for traditional one-hour treatments. Facial blowouts are designed in many different ways to give clients expert, yet affordable, skin care that is both efficient AND luxurious, while boosting YOUR revenue flow!

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skin facial bar

ZONE-SPECIFIC TREATMENTS Over the years, clients have sought out more time-compressed and costconscious services. Zone-specific treatments met this demand. These services are extremely popular, resulting in many spas adding shorter treatments (30 minutes or less) to their menus as well. Services consist of quick, 20-minute targeted treatments that address zone-specific issues detailed to each individual client. Whether a client is requesting treatment to the full face for exfoliation, hydration or soothing properties, or if they are looking to treat a specific area for issues such as breakouts, dull skin or tired eyes, zonespecific treatments satisfy the timepressed, budget-conscious client. The versatility of a Zone-specific treatment gives clients the opportunity to get out of the treatment room and onto the main sales or retail floor, which promotes skin services and also helps encourage clients to check out other

January2017

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retail purchase opportunities. Clients tend to feel more comfortable with no need to undress for these services, and clipping dental bibs or towels to their garments protects their clothes without a worry. These treatments are time-friendly for the busy spa client as well as the spa offering the services. During each zone-specific treatment, an expert analyzes the skin before performing a targeted treatment. What makes these treatments so unique is that clients are able to choose from a number of services based on their specific needs. Some examples include Flash Exfoliation, Eye Rescue, Lip Renewal, Age Repair, Moisture Boost, Oil Control and Breakout Clearing. Beth Bialko, Global Education Developer for Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute, expresses why she believes these services are unique. “These treatments are convenient, save time and are perfect for

the busy client,” she says. “They are ideal for customers who have never received skin treatments before and are key to offer for events, promotional purposes and new product launches.” Understanding why these services are popular among clientele can provide a game-changing revenue opportunity for spas that do not yet offer express treatments. Alternatively, implementing these express services in your treatment room is still an option if you do not have the space or the environment in your open spa area. Prices for zone-specific treatments can range anywhere from $20 to $35, and last for 20 minutes. With a lower service price, clients tend to spend more on their at-home zone-specific retail purchases ($100 for an at-home treatment). On average, a client will return about two times per month for a treatment, but much depends on the prevalence of their skin concerns.

skin facial bar

ORGANIC HEALING TREATMENT Heed Spa, located in Miami Beach, Fla., is an eco-friendly organic healing spa that understands the hectic lives of their clients. With their express facial services, they have a fast way of providing their clients with exactly what they desire in a proficient and effective

manner. Heed Spa offers 25-minute mini facials, 25-minute express deep tissue massages, and 20-minute manicure and pedicure services. All express treatments are offered in the main spa area, which not only saves clients the hassle of undressing

in a private treatment room, but also benefits the spa by having the opportunity to see more clients per day. Their express mini facials are based on four main skin concerns: Bright skin and hyperpigmentation, calm-sensitive skin, firm skin aging and acne prone skin. All

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january2017

skin facial bar

facials include and focus on cleansing, exfoliating, masking, toning and moisturizing the skin using organic products. Their express 30-minute massages focus on one specific area that is of most concern to the client, such as the back, neck or legs, while the express manicurepedicure treatment emphasizes cutting, filing and polishing the nails and cuticles. Heed Spa owner, David Neddam, spoke about why their services are so unique. “These services are both popular and profitable,” he explains. “At Heed Spa, our express services are the most efficient way to meet our client’s needs to receive effective therapeutic services in less time.” Heed Spa offers express treatments as part of their regular spa menu. They offer express treatments to all demographics, but target teenagers, working women and senior citizens. Express facial services at Heed Spa have a flat rate of $75 for a 30-minute treatment. An express deep tissue massage is priced at $75 for 25 minutes. Express manicures have a flat rate of $16 for 30 minutes, while express pedicures start at $29 for 30 minutes. A combination of both manicure and pedicure is priced at $42 for 30 minutes.

THE DYNAMIC TRIO Instead of handing your clients last week’s newspaper to read while they wait for their toes to dry, offer them a quick mini facial! Spa E, located in Miami Beach, Fla., has taken their spa menu to the next level with their express services. In their beautiful, open environment, Spa E offers manicures, pedicures and facials all at the same time. Six chairs in the spa are designed for the ability to lay back and swivel in every direction, which allows multiple spa professionals to maneuver around the client. Each team member performs a different service while the client stays in one place, rather than the client having to move around the facility. Treatment begins with the spa professional engaging with the client and

January2017

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learning what is of most concern to them. The spa professional will examine the client’s face and skin, offering a quick clean up of the brows or an express facial if their skin is looking flaky or dull. Any client coming in for a manicure or pedicure has the option to add an exfoliating massage mask or peel to their treatment, all of which can be completed in a quick 30 minutes. Clients are able to pick and choose the services they would like to receive within their 30 minutes of pampering. Some options include a mask to hydrate the skin and a calming peel mask devised for exfoliation and sun protection. Spa E specializes in these express services on a daily basis. Bernadette, head esthetician at Spa E, expressed the importance of being able to give clients the opportunity to have more than one service performed at a time. “This is a great opportunity for clients to not waste their time waiting for a technician to work on them,” she says. “Different specialists are able to perform a multitude of services on the client within the 30 minutes, which is extremely beneficial and time-saving for both the client and the spa.” Not

only are these services popular among clientele who are in a rush during their lunch break, but bachelorette and birthday party groups are drawn to these services before their nights out in the city as well. Prices for these services vary, depending on the products and services requested by the client. An express mini facial, including an exfoliating cleanse and sunscreen application, typically costs $65 for 30 minutes. A mini peel can range anywhere from $40 to $65 for 30 minutes, depending on the type of peel. Spa E also offers an express shoulder and neck massage that can be performed during any other service as well, which costs approximately $55 for 30 minutes. 

Kristina Mazzenga received her bachelor's degree in Social Media Marketing and Broadcasting from Saint Vincent College in Latrobe, Penn. Her computer and cell phone are attached to her hip as she is obsessed with spreading the word! Her passion became her profession. She is now the Editorial Assistant and Social Media Partner for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine.

Perfect From The Inside Out Pioneering the trend toward customized gene-based beauty, HydroPeptide’s first 2017 release is LumaPro-C, a skin brightening pigment corrector created from groundbreaking findings in epigenetics and peptide research. LumaPro-C incorporates an oil-soluble form of vitamin C (4%) – the ideal concentration for skin depigmentation. This uptake of vitamin C into the skin is KEY for long lasting protection against cell damage.

800.932.9873 hydropeptide.com

facial sweet tooth

The Dr. Jeff® BioMVP® Brightening Masque is a cream mask formulated with licorice root cell extract, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and soothing botanicals. This unique product helps to brighten and balance overall skin tone, maintaining a supple and radiant appearance! Rinse-free and for hyperpigmented skin.

800.248.7546 repechage.com

the finest glowing skin

Let your clients' skin GLOW with Ecco Bella’s best-selling Natural Age Antidote Day Skin Cream designed to prevent and repair visible signs of aging. Use this precious skin rejuvenation formula on the face, hair and scalp, or as a perfume on the neck and wrists. Shield beauty from stress, wrinkles and sun damage with the ONLY skin care containing Ecco-Shield and vitamin cells!

877.696.2220 eccobella.com

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

The Repêchage Vita Cura® Renewal Serum reduces the appearance of sagging skin, fine lines and wrinkles through a synergistic blend of seaweed, teas and herbs for a more youthful look with each application. Only 10 drops on the face and neck are necessary to help tired skin LOOK and FEEL refreshed!

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beauty from the sea

888.316.3683 dr-jeff.com

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A Touch of Renewal for the Body, Mind & Spirit AUSTIN, TEXAS SPA OF THE MONTH

by AMANDA CLINTON WINTER

January2017

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Founded with the primary goal of providing the finest services for the mind, body and spirit, Viva Day Spa recently opened its newest location in Austin, Texas’ popular Northside Domain. Opening in June 2016, the Domain location became Viva’s third, and largest, locality in Austin boasting more than 7,000 square feet. Named the Best Spa in Austin by the Austin Chronicle and Austin Monthly Magazine, Viva Day Spa’s three locations offer a wide array of spa treatments for men and women and award-winning spa packages. Spa owners and founders Shannon Mouser, Laurie Aroch and Maya Aroch collectively direct all three locations with the help of a team of managers. “I saw a big need within the industry to provide a luxury location of experts who provide warm, friendly services that not only care for the clients, but the staff as well,” Mouser says. The warm, beautiful day spa delivers the utmost in relaxation and rejuvenation. LNEonline.com

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spa spa of the month

SIGNATURE TREATMENTS With an extensive spa menu throughout three locations, Viva Day Spa’s WOW factor that earned them the recognition for Austin’s Best Spa Package three times is a six and a half hour relaxation journey, sweeping clients away into a worry-free zone — “The Viva Diva Spa Package” ($459, 6 hours). The experience begins in the spa’s infrared sauna where clients can relax in a peaceful, rejuvenating, anti-viral and anti-bacterial environment as staff members provide them with cold, peppermint towels. A massage therapist then performs a 90-minute Swedish massage to work out any of the client’s aches and pains. Following the massage, the client receives a Back and Shoulder Sugar Scrub to exfoliate, a Hot Herbal Steam Towel Treatment to help melt the muscles and a Full Body Dry Brush Exfoliation Treatment to alleviate the appearance of cellulite. To help open the client’s sinuses and alleviate allergies, the massage therapist performs a Viva Magic Mint Scalp Treatment to relieve scalp, neck and head tension. Clients then choose from a number of scents for their Hydrating Body Wrap, after which they are able to select from a menu of local restaurants for lunch. Following lunch, clients receive the spa’s Viva Custom Designer Facial, which includes dual cleansers, steam, exfoliation, masks, extractions, hydration, sun protection and a relaxing arm, neck and shoulder massage. To conclude the spa package, clients are escorted to the spa’s nail department where they may sip on hot tea or wine and eat chocolates while enjoying supreme hand and foot pampering treatments.

TRAINING Viva Day Spa is dedicated to providing every client with the individual attention and service they expect and

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deserve; they select their employees based on this same philosophy. “We support and nurture our employees by offering a flexible work place, an open door policy, low drama and a beautiful environment to work in,” Mouser says. To maintain flawless customer service and staff performance, staff meetings are held every two to three months focusing on employee improvement, customer reviews, upcoming promotions, events and more. Larger staff meetings consist of upbeat celebrations honoring department achievements and ad-

ditional training strategies. Overall staff performance is evaluated quarterly, and personal performance goals are reviewed at this time as well. To incentivize the staff, Mouser offers bonuses and free products based on each individual’s retail and service goals. “Our staff really cares about the services we provide,” she explains. “We all have pride in a job well done and maintain a very conducive team mentality.” Staff members of the spa reinforce pride in one another and in what they have accomplished.

spa spa of the month

because it gives us the opportunity to try their services while they try ours in return. We are able to cross promote and get to know the other business owners in the community.” Viva Day Spa is the official spa for the Domain Northside’s prestigious Archer Hotel in Austin. They also partner with San Jose Hotel and several local restaurants.

SPECIAL EVENTS AND PROMOTIONS To keep their services and offerings fresh and enticing for each season, Viva Day Spa plans special events and promotions at the end of each calendar year. The spa offers seasonal packages, in store promotions and special offers for existing clients as well as new ones. Some campaigns are based on the season, while others are based on what their vendors are currently offering. Sometimes, the spa simply wants to celebrate an event or occasion and hold promotions just for fun! Staff members frequently hold special events and promotions to celebrate anniversaries, new products and additions to their spa menu.

REVENUE AND RETAIL

MARKETING Viva Day Spa offers a beautiful atmosphere with a warm, friendly and qualified staff, highlighting why the spa believes their impeccable quality of services and word of mouth are the marketing strategies most effective for them. They receive a large amount of recognition from the press due to their coordination with the Young Chamber of Commerce. The spa has also been featured in the Austin Chronicle as “Best Spa” and “Best Places To Work”.

Other marketing strategies for Viva Day Spa consist of their online presence, including both their website and social media accounts. The spa utilizes their beautifully designed website alongside their Facebook, Instagram and Google accounts to not only attract new clients, but to showcase their success through photos and testimonials. Partnering with local vendors and businesses in the Austin area is another way the spa has improved their marketing morale. Mouser stated, “We love doing trades with other businesses

At Viva Day Spa, recommendations are customized based on each guest’s personal goals. “We do not believe in hard sells and we train our staff this way,” says Mouser. “We carry great products that offer our guests the results they come in for and that speak to our staff and our spa guests.” Mouser constantly samples products and gift packages to assure that only the best products are available on their shelves. “I am very selective about what products I bring in and choose,” she says. “I focus on selecting products based on results, quality and health.” The spa’s team members believe that caring for their guests is an honor, which is why each of their retail products showcases excellence and well-being.

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spa spa of the month

SPA DIRECTOR SPOTLIGHT Shannon Mouser is co-owner and founder of Viva Day Spa. She entered the spa industry as a massage therapist in 1999. After winning Austin Monthly’s “Best Massage in Austin 2004”, she partnered with her two best friends, Laurie Aroch and Maya Aroch, to open Viva in 2005. Mouser transitioned to full-time management in late 2008. While Mouser and her partners split duties, she takes primary responsibility for spa operations, service design, training and management oversight. She also curates the retail space for all locations. Mouser is a lover of great design, fashion and art, which is reflected in Viva’s style and décor, as she serves as the spa design and esthetic ambassador. 

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RUNDOWN VIVA DAY SPA 11601 ROCK ROSE AVE. AUSTIN, Texas 78758 vivadayspa.com

512.300.2256

Launch: June 2016 Spa Owners and Founders: Shannon Mouser, Laurie Aroch, Maya Aroch Client Composition: 75 percent female, 25 percent male Size: 7,000 square feet Amenities: 14 treatment rooms, 4 mani stations, 4 pedi stations, 1 double station (mani and pedi), 2 infared saunas, 3 relaxation lounges and a retail and sitting area Awards: Best Places to Work in Austin, Best Spa in the Austin Chronicle, Young Chamber of Commerce, Best Spa Package in Austin Monthly Retail Lines: SkinCeuticals, Éminence Organic Skin Care

UP YOUR SKIN GAME ÂŽ with DiamondTome

Changing the Face of Skin Beautiful skin doesn't stop at the neck and neither should your services. DiamondTome body wands is an universal solution to treat an array of neglected areas including backs, buttocks, thighs, knees, heels, elbows, feet and under arms. #upyourskingame with DiamondTome. | www.altairinstruments.com LNEonline.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243 on reader service card

january2017

DÉCOLLETÉ the secrets to maintaining youth by Lynda Solien-Wolfe and Robyn Lynn Green

assage therapy, one of today’s most popular spa services, provides many phenomenal benefits. Research conducted by Dr. Tiffany Fields at the Touch Research Institute shows that massage can reduce stress levels, help manage or reduce the symptoms of anxiety and depression, may increase the immune system’s functionality and may release endorphins, which act as a pain reliever.

January2017

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january2017

spa face, neck & décolleté

hen we think of massage therapy, we usually think about treatments for backs, arms, legs and shoulders and overlook the face, neck and décolleté. However this is a mistake, as there is nothing more amazing than a face, neck and décolleté massage to melt stress away. By adding massage services to these three areas that often do not get the attention they should, you can enhance your clients’ experience and appreciation. Plus, you may be able to charge an additional $50 to $100 by adding these unique services to a full body massage! As a standalone service, massage of these areas would be approximately 30 minutes, and adding them to a one-hour treatment would extend the treatment to approximately 90 minutes.

Face Massage Like the rest of the body, facial muscles require exercise and stimulation to maintain a youthful appearance. Treatments for the face include the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin area. Facial massage stimulates blood circulation in the skin, which can improve skin regeneration and slow the signs of aging. There are many different ways to perform a face massage and numerous products to choose from, and your selection of technique and product depend on what you wish to achieve (see chart on page 42). A few popular face massage techniques include Swedish massage, acupressure and manual lymphatic drainage (MLD). Swedish massage incorporates effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, fanning, pinching around the eyebrows and nose, using gentle circular motions and upward stroking with light tapping. Acupressure is an ancient Chinese healing method that involves applying pressure to certain meridian points on the body to relieve

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pain. The human body has 14 "meridians" that carry energy throughout the body. Manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) is a type of gentle massage that encourages the natural drainage of the lymph. When working on the face, move in an upward direction so as to not cause drag, which stretches the skin, and be aware of how much pressure you are using. Two key contraindications of facial massage include open sores or nerve pain in the facial area.

Neck Massage Treatments for the neck — the anterior

and posterior area running just below the jaw line down to the shoulders — are wonderful for releasing tension and headaches, as well as improving lymphatic drainage. There are many neck techniques, starting with gentle range of motion stretches then moving into some compressions over the upper shoulders and lower neck region. Applying gentle long strokes from the shoulders up to the posterior of the neck and then to the hair line on the back of the head help with decompression of the spine. You can also use acupressure points, lymph drainage techniques as well as some deeper muscle stripping. Due to

spa face, neck & décolleté

the neck’s constant movement, it can show more severe signs of aging so use anti-wrinkle treatments generously. Always use a light pressure around the client’s carotid artery, located near the front of the neck. Using a deeper pressure in this area can lead to a lightheaded feeling or even cause your client to pass out. It is safe to work around the carotid artery as long as you are conscientious of your pressure.

Décolleté Massage The décolleté is the area of exposed skin around the lower neckline and the cleavage, also referred to as the chest

area. The skin in this area is thinner than skin on other parts of the body, so it needs to be protected with the strongest barrier possible to prevent loss of hydration. Skin dehydration is known as a major cause for age associated wrinkles in the neck and décolleté. Anti-aging treatments are often focused on the face. Because so much of our clients’ anti-aging focus is placed on facial treatments, the sun damage and imperfections of the neglected décolleté are often very obvious compared to the fresh appearance of the treated face area. When massaging the décolleté

area, drape the client’s breasts and be aware that breast tissue can be very sensitive. Performing gentle effleurage and circular motions around the chest and breast tissue area helps enhance blood flow and maintain good tissue health. Te c h n i q u e s f o r t re a t i n g t h e décolleté include gentle circular frictions to loosen the attachments or adhesions around the collarbone, gentle tapping to bring blood and oxygen to the area and acupressure points, lymph drainage techniques and gentle range of motion stretching for the pectoral muscles.

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spa face, neck & décolleté

SKIN CARE TIPS Exfoliate. Apply an exfoliating product with gentle massage strokes on the face, neck and décolleté to help counteract signs of aging and make the skin smooth and silky to the touch. This also helps with skin tone and breakouts and allows skin care products to work to their full potential.

grapeseed oil use : Sun Damage

olive oil use : Wrinkles

Hydration is another important part of a face, neck and décolleté treatment. You can use a variety of creams or oil to achieve optimal hydration. We recommend the following oils. If you prefer to use cream, look for creams that include at least one of the oils in the following chart:

sunflower oil use : Barrier

jojoba oil use : Sun Damage

• Reduces transepidermal

• Due to high linoleic acid

• Has been shown to prevent

water loss from skin, which

content, promotes skin barrier

sun induced skin damage

increases hydration.

health, which helps the skin

by inhibiting UV induced

• Acts as a refatting agent to

retain moisture.

upregulation of the collagen

help heal damaged/dry skin.

• Rich in vitamins C, D and E,

• Contains squalene, which is a

which help moisturize the skin

natural moisturizer.

and protect from sun damage.

Hydrate.

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degrading enzyme MMP-1.

Skin knows. From the purest ingredients, to our innovative formulations, quality is something the skin can feel. Clients indulge in it. Therapists prefer it.

• Paraben Free • Dye Free • Unscented • Natural

Call for free samples • 800.253.6466 • www.bonvital.com

Performance Health®, Biofreeze® and Bon Vital’® Trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its subsidiaries and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2016—Performance Health. All rights reserved.

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spa face, neck & décolleté

Aromatherapy.

Aromatherapy is a great addition to a face, neck and décolleté massage. The following chart includes a few quality picks.

bergamot

clary sage

geranium

• Great for normal to dry skin. • Fresh green aroma.

• Prevents and reduces the appearance of acne with antibacterial and antiinflammatory activities. • Reduces sebum production, which also prevents acne.

• Great for normal to dry skin. • Fragrant herbal, base note of minty freshness aroma.

lavender

tea tree

ylang ylang

• Great for any skin type. • Very soothing and relaxing.

• Prevents and reduces the appearance of acne with antibacterial and antiinflammatory activities.

• Great for normal to dry skin. • Sweet, intense exotic floral aroma.

The face, neck and décolleté are sensitive areas of the body that benefit greatly from the natural healing properties of massage. No matter what techniques or products you incorporate into your face, neck and décolleté massage services — or whether they’re add-ons to a full body massage routine or a signature stand alone treatment — your clients are sure to enjoy an amazing experience. 

Lynda Solien-Wolfe is a licensed esthetician and massage therapist in the state of Florida. She is the Vice President of Massage and Spa for Performance Health, the makers of Biofreeze®, Bon Vital'®, TheraPearl® and TheraBand®. Robyn Lynn Green has been a registered massage therapist for more than 20 years in Ontario, Canada. She is an educator for Performance Health.

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revolutionary relief

Supporting the natural intelligence and healing wisdom of the body, this Muscle Release Oil by Shankara contains pure, cold processed herbal oil infused with natural active ingredients such as boswellia, arnica, sweet birch and yarrow to soothe inflamed joints and muscles. Completely FREE from chemicals!

888.626.4363 shankara.com

natural skin defense

This revolutionary MAX stem cell crème with Vectorize-Technology™ by Image Skincare is a new formulated stem cell technology derived from herbaceous alpine plants that supports natural skin defense mechanisms. This crème repairs cell damage, protects against free radical damage and provides nutrition to the skin. Corrective peptides relax facial expressions, reducing the formation of wrinkles.

855.378.4772 gharieni.com

icing on the cake

Agape Bliss from Agape Pure Wax combines the ease of application of a cream strip wax with the efficiency of a gel strip wax. It glides on just like icing and is gentle to even the most sensitive skin. Bliss is an all-natural wax with no unnatural color or fragrance.

877.754.6253 agapewax.com skinblends.com

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

With a minimum height of 19.7 inches, Gharieni´s MO1 Evo is the PERFECT spa table for all clients who need extremely low access or to get off easily. For perfect working and relaxation positions, the MO1 Square is equipped with up to six actuators to adjust the table’s height, back, legs, foot rests and arm rests.

SPANews

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BEHIND THE SPA DOOR Leslie Crowell

with Spa Department Leader & International Spa Designer of Three-13 Salon, Spa & Boutique of Marietta, Ga.

Secrets to incentivizing staff and maintaining client loyalty

Concept Define the concept of your spa. Three-13 Salon, Spa & Boutique consists of passionate professionals paying detailed attention to the needs and desires of each of our guests. We strive to provide relaxing, luxurious services and offer the highest quality of products and education for our valued clients.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the story behind your unique name? The "Three" of Three-13 Salon, Spa & Boutique signifies our three owners: Lester E. Crowell Jr., Marian E Crowell and Tony Lacey, and 13 is our favorite number.

What are your most popular treatments? Our luxurious facials and makeup artistry! We have been voted the Best Facial in Atlanta many years in a row along with Best Makeup Artist 2015 in one of Atlantaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s local magazines.

Facility How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there? There are five treatment rooms, which include a Cupid's Couples' Suite, Aqua Aromatherapy Room and Steam Shower.

Leadership Role What daily challenges do you encounter in your position? As the Spa Department Leader and International Spa Designer of Three-13 Salon, Spa & Boutique, having the time to deliver all services requested by my clients while supporting my teammates in their daily goals is an everyday challenge. Educating my clients on their specific needs and most appropriate direction for their skin care regimen is one of my biggest challenges as well.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? Work can definitely be stressful at times, but when you love what you do and love 48

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educating both your employees and your clients, stress is minimal.

What takes most of your time every day? Working with my clients. We take our time with each and every client to ensure that none of them leave unsatisfied.

Team Building How many employees do you have and what are their specialties? We have a total of 93 employees. We have three professional departments: hairdressing, technical and spa, plus our administrative staff and guest service specialists. Many of our spa associates are multi-licensed.

What is your hiring process? We have postings on several job sites as well as a fantastic relationship with cosmetology schools, skin care and nail institutes for recruiting. We also do a group interview every Thursday that normally consists of 5-10 applicants.

How do you select the people that work with you? We look for individuals who have the desire to do it all — skin care, facials, makeup, nails, waxing. We look for people who are outgoing, energetic and willing to learn our techniques and grow with us as long-term employees.

How do you evaluate employees? We perform weekly, monthly, quarterly and yearly evaluations. We review guest retention, ticket average, guest counts and total sales in service and products. We have a consultant who comes in once a month to meet with every employee to speak about ways to improve and review goals.

How do you train the staff? We have nine educators. Each Wednesday morning, we conduct an

education course with our upcoming associates and those who are in our apprentice program. Once a month we conduct “pep rallies”, and once every quarter all service providers and associates attend. We use our in-house educators for the weekly classes and bring in industry leaders for the monthly and quarterly classes.

Retail What are your retail goals? We have a weekly retail goal of $200 per service provider to reach commission.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals? Weekly, we offer 10 percent commission for $200-$299, 13 percent for $300$399 and 16 percent for $400+. In addition, we have monthly prizes and gift cards for most improved retail, average ticket, total sales, etc.

Where is the retail area located and what is its surface area? Our retail area is located at the front of our 13,000 sq. ft. salon and spa near the guest waiting area. The retail area is about 3,000 sq. ft., which includes a makeup counter and designated area for our skin care products. We carry more than 20 hair care and nail care product lines and only one skin care line.

Marketing And Publicity What can you tell us about your marketing techniques? We have a referral program where an existing guest receives a $20 service gift card for sending a new guest to us. We also have a promotional program where we hand out a $120 “New Guest Offer" to new guests. Additionally, we post daily and advertise on Facebook and Instagram. We have eight ongoing

billboards, several ads in local newspapers and magazines and we participate in a large amount of community events and local commercials. We try to keep our budget equal across each media source.

Exceptional Client Care How do you keep clients loyal? When a guest pre-books their appointment they are automatically entered into a daily $43 gift card drawing, plus they are entered into a monthly deluxe product basket drawing. Essentially, the guest could win both. We have found this is a great way to incentivize our clients — they love the daily opportunity! We also offer complimentary paraffin hand treatments with every hair, technical or spa service and a scalp, neck and back massage with every shampoo treatment. We also have an anniversary sale that begins March 13th (our favorite number) and runs until the end of June offering many specials and opportunities for our guests.

Tips For Spa Leaders What advice could you give to someone who would like to manage a spa? Be sure this is your passion… It takes COMPLETE dedication to be successful!

We want to he ar from YOU!

Share your insider tips on runn ing a succes sful practice with us , and you may be featured in an upcoming editio n of Les Nouvell es Esthétiques & Spa. Simply se nd an email to amanda@LNE online.com (50 to 100 words). To gether, let's bu ild a community on e word at a tim e!

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DAYS TO HABIT BUILDING

BOOSTING YOUR BOTTOM LINE by Danae Markland

January2017

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Changing a habit or creating a new one is more of a science than many might think. American surgeon Dr. Maxwell Maltz coined a system of ideas in the 1960s that he claimed would change one’s self-perception. If this pattern of thinking was practiced consistently over a 21-day period, the ideas would become a routine. Realistic expectations are key to a strong clientclinician relationship and the initial consultation is the perfect opportunity to introduce new patterns in their daily and monthly habits. Setting goals for our clients is a quintessential aspect of boosting the bottom line, and applying

the 21-day habit formation ideology to daily care and professional treatment regimens take that number even higher.

THE 21-DAY HABIT FORMING THEORY In 1960, Maltz published the influential book “Psycho-Cybernetics”, in which he professed that a person’s ways of thinking and their beliefs could be radically changed in just 21 days. These concepts have been used time and time again in a wide variety of fields because of their applicability to selfimage and individual success.

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business 21 days to habit building

The 21-day rule can be used to develop positive habits, as well as break unfavorable habits. Using the 21-day rule to boost business is another way to implement this practice. In the skin care industry, introducing clients to daily care products and professional treatments using this approach can help to instill deep-seated habits for healthy skin, while building a successful partnership for the future at the same time. Daily care products and professional treatments are vital to the ultimate health of your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin. Getting the products needed to address their individual skin concerns into their hands is the easy part. The most important, more difficult part is making sure those clients use the daily care products you recommend twice a day. Educating clients during the consultation initiates the discussion around their personal contribution to their own skin health. Ultimately, we want to develop a partnership with our

clients, much like a fitness trainer would with their clientele. When it is fully disclosed that they have a responsibility to uphold, the health of their skin becomes more than just a monthly visit to see you, their esthetician. Real life scenarios and analogies work well during the first consultation because they compare common practices with something that may not be a part of a daily routine, such as a skin care regimen. A real life scenario to consider using during the consultation is the 60:1 ratio. Explain to your client that in a given month of 30 days, they have the opportunity to treat their skin two times per day, which equates to 60 opportunities to improve their skin condition. As the esthetician, you have only one opportunity per month to provide a gentle but powerful professional treatment to help boost their outcomes exponentially. Another analogy to consider is starting a fitness

Daily care products and professional treatments are vital to the ultimate health of your clients' skin.

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business 21 days to habit building

routine. In order to see results from a workout, a healthy diet must be implemented simultaneously and the same applies to skin care. In order to see results from monthly professional treatments, a comprehensive skin care routine must be used twice daily. When you are able to show the level of improvement by incorporating daily care products with a professional treatment, clients are more likely to share the responsibility of improving their skin health with you.

BRINGING

THE 21-DAY HABIT

FORMING THEORY INTO YOUR CONSULTATION During the consultation, you will determine the client’s individual needs and concerns, and from there you can develop a recommended regimen. Ideally, the amount of product during this trial would last the client 21 days —

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or longer. This not only helps establish the habit of twice daily use, but also prepares and balances the skin for the client’s first professional treatment. On the day of the first professional treatment, be sure to discuss the use of the products you recommended for the past 21 days. Find out what the client liked about the regimen, ask if they noticed improvements in their skin, and determine which of the suggested products they would like to continue using. Without even knowing it, your client will have completed the 21 days and formed a healthy habit, and you will have established a long-term relationship with them by providing daily care products they’ve become comfortable using. Allowing clients to take a trial run with your daily care products can also minimize the chances of returns and adverse reactions. Be sure to provide an easy, stepby-step protocol for both the morning and evening regimens. This will aid in

ease of use and ultimately show the client how daily care products can enhance their progress when used twice a day. Finally, take a moment to make notes in the client’s chart, recording the products purchased and the date when the purchase was made. On average, products will last 60 to 90 days, and since you have made note of the date of purchase in the client’s chart, you will have an idea of when they might be running low. Adding this level of service not only helps your bottom line, but keeps the 21-day habit forming theory active in the client’s skin care regimen. Consistency is key, and the more consistent you can keep your clients’ skin care product usage, the better your outcomes will be. Once you have established a relationship with your client and you have explained the importance of daily care products to support the outcome of a professional treatment, you will begin to see your bottom line grow.

business 21 days to habit building

BUILDING HABITS TO BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE Now that you have your clients following the 21-day habit forming theory, it’s time to start applying this same set of ideas to the way you conduct business. If you have yet to create online platforms to advertise your business and engage with current and potential new customers, choose one new source to set up for the next three weeks. Facebook and Instagram are great places to start. Every day for the next 21 days, commit to posting something about your business on your new page. Ask your followers a question about skin care, share images of your facility and the results you provide, or promote new products and services you’re offering. By the end of that

time period, you’ll have a new pattern in place and will no longer need a reminder to update your social media page status during the week. Pinpoint a handful of tasks around the office that have fallen by the wayside over previous months. Each day for 21 days, choose one of those tasks to chip away at for half an hour at the end of the business day—it could be updating your service menus, planning the next open house or updating your website with new photos of your offerings and client Before and After photographs. You’ll slowly get into the habit of making small changes on a daily basis, which will add up to significant changes down the road. While no theory is foolproof, try out one new idea or practice for 21 days and encourage your patients to do the same; you’ll know by the end

of that three-week period whether it’s a habit you want to continue. And when it comes to skin care, healthy habits are a must 

Danae Markland is a licensed esthetician and certified medical laser specialist. She has specialized in many aspects of the skin care industry, including corrective esthetics, laser treatment and other therapeutic devices. Currently, in her role as Vice President of Business Development for PCA SKIN®, Markland and her team help medical and esthetic practices grow their businesses with superior products and education. Also an advanced educator, Markland shares her passion for skin health with fellow estheticians and medical professionals at presentations all over the world.

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CLIENT SATISFACTION Building and Sustaining Success Through Client Surveys by Donna Dodier

January2017

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irst you dream, then you plan, and finally you build your haven of beauty and relaxation — your spa business! The entire process from start to finish is a learning experience filled with an abundance of hard work, sweat, tears, elation, frustration and every emotion in between. You build it, you HOPE they come — and you hope they return. Every business begins their journey with that steadfast desire for a successful outcome. When you launch your dream, you never entertain the idea that you could fail, deal with unforeseen issues, or be classified as a “subpar” spa in your community. You start off shiny and brilliantly polished with all the details in place. Yet somehow, without warning, your business can become dull and lackluster. It happens as time passes and without proper management. Complacency sets in, customer service starts to slip, treatment quality and overall professionalism are jeopardized. The day comes when reality sets in and you wonder,

“HOW DID THIS HAPPEN?”

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business client satisfaction

There will undoubtedly be staff members and clients who never seem satisfied or happy. These individuals are dangerous to your business because misery loves company. Letting go of the negativity “mongers” will uplift the workplace. It is your right to replace staff and let go of problematic clients if they are disruptive to the spa entity.

THE BEGINNING

OF THE END The signs of doom slowly begin to reveal themselves… It starts with slower schedules, less business, staff complaints, client complaints and an overall lack of enthusiasm throughout your spa. There are many facets to running a day spa, and every one must be overseen and maintained. You must ask yourself: “Is my business like a bright diamond with minimum flaws and all its facets brilliantly shining?” Or do you find that your business is dull, heavily flawed and spiraling downward? If so, you can catch yourself and start moving in a positive direction. Don’t wait until so much damage has been inflicted that your reputation is tarnished, ultimately leaving you with little hope for a path to restoration. It is important to remember that clients drive your business, and your staff affects their satisfaction or dissatisfaction. If the team crumbles and quality wavers, a disaster is inevitable. This is where the client survey can steer you back to the path of success.

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LETTING GO OF YOUR EGO:

CAN YOU HANDLE THE TRUTH? There are several reasons why many spas do not offer client survey forms: They may not care to know their clients’ opinions, they may not recognize the importance of surveys, they may not want to do the extra paper work associated with surveys — or the managers and owners simply may not want to hear criticism. They may believe that their way is the right way and that their choices are always the best. In these cases, an owner is essentially letting their ego drive the business. If an owner — and their entire team — can surrender their egos, let go of defensive reactions and accept constructive criticism, that is a step in the right direction. Surveys enable

you to learn from mistakes, mature as a leader and ultimately lead the way to success! You may be unaware of a multitude of problems that have been present for months — from cell phone misuse (both staff and clients can be guilty of this), strong offensive scents, unpleasant noise levels, excessive retail sales pressure, unsatisfactory service, lack of treatment innovation, inappropriate language and discussions taking place or scheduling mishaps, to name a few of the many possibilities. If you have been constantly tripping over the same stones, it’s time to move the stones or take a different path. It all starts with the client survey!

business client satisfaction

SURVEY

QUESTIONS You can download survey form templates from spa marketing companies, modify online examples or completely create your own. The form is your guide to identifying necessary changes such as new staff hires, new treatments, a cleaner environment, quieter setting, etc. The rating style is entirely up to you. You can use a scale rating from 1 to 10, or you can implement verbal ratings (ie- very satisfied, satisfied, neutral, somewhat unsatisfied, very unsatisfied). Always offer an area where the survey taker can write notes to explain their selection. You can organize the survey by categorizing your questions (ie- Reception, Services, Staff, Spa Cleanliness, Overall Experience, etc.). Every aspect of the survey should be customized to the needs of your own business. Introduce the questions with an explanation of why you are offering the survey, and place it on the heading of the form itself. For example: “Client satisfaction is our highest priority. We greatly appreciate your business, and your feedback helps us to make sure you are satisfied with every aspect of your experience with us.” While every survey should have questions tailored to their business, there are certain questions that should be included in every survey. Make sure you include the pertinent questions to the right, and headline the survey with the following text: *For any Yes/No questions, make sure you follow with “If no, please explain.” This helps you to better understand the situation and address it appropriately.

TREATMENT EXPERIENCE - What service/services have you received today? - Did they start on time? - Did your therapist understand and address your needs? - Did they recommend products during your appointment? - Did they provide their recommendation in a respectful way, or did you feel it was too pushy? - Did you purchase products? - Do you feel the products recommended truly address your needs? - Would you recommend your therapist to others?

STAFF FRIENDLINESS AND PROFESSIONALISM - Do you regularly visit our spa? (Here include a “First visit” option to identify newcomers.) - In your initial contact by phone or walk in, was reception professional and friendly? - Was there any person, situation or spa area that made you feel uncomfortable at any time during your experience? If yes, please explain.

RECEPTION CHECK IN/CHECKOUT - Were the specials/promotions explained? - Were you asked if you would like to schedule your next appointment?

OVERALL EXPERIENCE - Would you recommend us to a friend or family member? - Do you feel that the price of the service was fair? - Are there services you would like to see on our menu that we don’t currently offer? - Do you feel the spa is clean, neat and uncluttered? - How likely are you to return?

At the end of the survey, provide an additional section for clients to write comments. Headline this section with a statement such as “Please explain how we could further improve your experience with us.”

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business client satisfaction

PRESENTING

THE SURVEY You can present the survey in several ways. You can send it to clients online or present it to them in person following each treatment. You will most definitely boost participation if you offer incentives such as a complimentary upgrade, discounted service or product sample for every client who fills out the survey. If you offer it in person, there are sure to be clients who simply can’t take the time to fill out the survey. In these cases, you could offer them a stamped envelope addressed to your spa so they can do so on their own time and send it back. Regardless of how you present the survey, realize that clients will be more willing to do it — not to mention more honest — if they are anonymous. However it is useful to know who the survey taker is, so take steps to track a survey. Before giving the client the form, place a code somewhere on it that states date of service and client

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initials. For example, if Mary Smith had her service on November 6th, you can use the code M1106S. This gives you a direct clue as to who the client was and the date of their visit, and you will know which staff members worked with them.

SURVEYING

THE STAFF The best way to ensure client happiness is to ensure you have a happy team. Providing a periodic survey for the staff gives you — the spa owner or manager — an idea of how well your back end of the business is operating. I often iterate that happy clients come from a happy professional staff and vice versa. If there is anger, resentment, jealousy or lack of enthusiasm, your clients ultimately feel

The best way to ensure client happiness is to ensure you have a happy team.

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business client satisfaction

If utilized appropriately and early on, a client survey can be an important guide to maintaining success. Clients’ impressions and opinions give you insight into how to move in a direction that fulfills everyone's needs and creates a steady flow of business, keeping your dream alive! 

Donna Dodier is an account executive for Baby Foot Peel. She has been a licensed esthetician for 16 years, as well as a writer, educator, lecturer and consultant on the subjects of LED Photo Rejuvenation, infrared body treatments, spa retail man-

the negativity, and you do not have a successful business. Many staff members do not want to be singled out, so anonymous survey forms are best, as well as a suggestion box. Your staff is the “heart” of your business. They have basic needs

to thrive in the workplace and their voices must be heard. Address the issues they share in their survey at staff meetings. Always be open and approachable. Nip issues in the bud and allow thoughtful, positive communication.

agement and wellness. Dodier's passion for animal and human longevity continually inspires her research to promote and provide education on nutraceuticals and holistic alternatives. Contact her at 561.886.8427 or babyfootpeel@gmail.com.

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This month:

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the power of massage

Glenath Moyle was presented the 2016 Performance Health / Massage Therapy Foundation Humanitarian Award at the American Massage Therapy Association (AMTA) National Convention in Milwaukee, Wis., last month. Moyle was honored for her efforts in embracing the power of massage and the mission of the Massage Therapy Foundation to promote education and research while serving others.

800.321.2135 ext. 281 performancehealth.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

farmhouse fresh in dubai

FarmHouse Fresh® announces its exclusive partnership with the Heavenly Spa by WestinTM at The Westin Dubai, Al Habtoor City during the spa’s launch this fall. The spa will be the UAE’s premier destination for FarmHouse Fresh “Farm to Table” treatments. Created by the world-renowned wellness-oriented Westin brand, this new luxury spa rivals the largest spas in Dubai.

forests for the future

Éminence Organic Skin Care has partnered with award-winning global tree planting organization, Trees for the Future, to create their own non-profit initiative, Forests for the Future. Through this initiative, Éminence plants a tree for every retail product sold in developing countries throughout the world, becoming the first and only skin care company in the world to plant more than six million trees.

888.747.6342 eminenceorganics.com/us

spreading the love

The Bio-Therapeutic team recently joined the Dermalogica UK team to provide advanced technology training at the Dermalogica headquarters in Leatherhead, United Kingdom. Bio-Therapeutic has repeatedly revolutionized the skin care industry with their cutting-edge, non-invasive, age defying equipment and award winning products.

206.938.5800 ext. 200 bio-therapeutic.com

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Cupping Guide

An ancient twist to traditional treatments by Carrie Borzillo

We've seen Olympic athletes do it for sports injuries, and celebrities do it to detox, but the benefits of cupping go even farther than that. Cupping can help with a myriad of health concerns ranging from digestive to respiratory issues, as well as mental health, well-being and even anti-aging.

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Cupping Guide

Face While it's not as common as cupping on other parts of the body, some spas have used cupping during facials or to relieve specific conditions in the area, such as sinusitis, congestion and TMJ. The smallest silicone cups (round and oval) with a suction ball on top, known as Bell Cups, are the best choice as they are easier to maneuver in small places. "It's also great for facial rejuvenation in that it reduces puffiness by drawing out stagnant fluids and stimulating lymphatic drainage flow,” says Amy Lindsay-Joynt, a licensed massage therapist at Milk + Honey, which has four locations in Texas. “It increases local circulation, bringing nutrients to the surface, causing lines and wrinkles to plump up. The negative pressure helps scar tissue to soften, and because cupping has a calming effect on the nervous system, the muscles of the face soften and relax." In order to avoid leaving cup marks, Lindsay-Joynt says that the specialized facial cups are used with light oil, such as jojoba, for an easy glide and are rarely, if ever, left stationary on the face. "This area is highly vascularized so stick with suction release and the light glide because it provides more pressure control, as you'll want to keep the pressure very light,” she says. “If there's an area of concern as with TMJ it's best to repeat the stroke two to three times. Gently anchoring the skin will enhance gliding and can alleviate any discomfort if the skin is loose. A hot towel to the face to remove the oil is a nice way to finish the treatment." Meghann Lawrence, chief of operations at Ummelina International Day Spa in Seattle, Wash., notes that the lymphatic drainage during facial cupping helps provide a "slimmer look and it can also give the fact a lift." She uses a three-pass approach on the face draining toward the lymph nodes.

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As with most spa services, regular treatments are recommended. "If you start young, you're increasing circulation to the face and giving necessary lymphatic work and could decrease future fine lines and wrinkles,” says Lawrence. “If you start when you're older and have noticeable fine lines and wrinkles, you might notice a difference with continued treatment but it probably won’t last forever." There's a long list of contraindications for cupping on all parts of the body. Jessica O'Brien, corporate director of massage therapy at Bella Santé spas in Massachusetts breaks it down: "Cupping in general shouldn't be done on a client with fever, convulsions or cramps, over allergic skin conditions, ulcerated sores or large blood vessels, broken bones, dislocations, slipped disks, those undergoing cancer treatments (check with a doctor), sunburn, ruptured, ulcerated, inflamed skin, acute stages of psoriasis, eczema or rosacea."

For more on facial cupping, see "Facial Cupping" on page 74.

Abdomen Cupping on the abdomen is known to improve digestion by increasing the flow of digestive juices and absorption of nutrients. It's also a great part of a detox therapy or to relieve constipation because it externally manipulates the digestive and reproductive systems, thus simulating peristalsis. Additionally, it’s been said to aid in breathing and relieve symptoms of asthma. A variety of cups can be used for this, but Lindsay-Joynt prefers medium and large silicone cups because their shape makes it easier to hold and they move nicely over the abdomen with oil. "Stationary cups are used for no more than two to three minutes during the course of the treatment,” she explains. “These are jostled to provide

Cupping Guide

stimulation to the particular area. The use of gliding while turning the cups clockwise helps to stimulate movement along the large intestine. The cups with the hand held pump also lend themselves well to this technique as well as for the lymphatic drainage clearing and sweep before and after the treatment," says Lindsay-Joynt. Lawrence further explains, "We also get a lot of our nutrients via our intestines and many of us do not do regular or semi-regular cleanses to get rid of the build up so we cannot absorb those nutrients. Cupping helps move that build up." Cupping on the abdomen is also good for mental health. "The abdomen tends to be where a lot of emotions may be stored, therefore increased tension, this helps in reducing tension," says O'Brien. The effects of the stimulation can be expected to last between 24 and 72 hours, provided the client drinks plenty of water.

Back Cupping on the back is usually used to relieve pain and soreness from overworked muscles, or neck and back aches from stress. It's is also a useful treatment for bronchitis, asthma, congestion and sciatica pain, which can be relieved by placing cups over the points of pain on the buttocks. "Treatment always depends on the patient being treated and the conditions being treated so it ranges from five minutes to perhaps 15 minutes,” says Katharine Morse, an acupuncture physician at Skin Apeel Day Spa in Boca Raton, Fla. “I typically use suction cupping and often use moving cupping to obtain good results. Moving cupping requires application of oil to the shin prior to movement so the cups glide across the skin." Cupping is a great addition for a deep tissue massage. "It increases

blood flow, which is one reason it allows the massage therapist to get deeper into the muscle faster,” says O'Brien. “Combining cupping with hands-on work in any area of the body allows for deeper work to be done. Quite often it can take a therapist a while to warm up the muscle enough to get into the deeper levels of muscle, and cupping can speed this process up."

Legs As with the back, getting deep during a deep tissue massage on the legs can often be challenging for the therapist and uncomfortable for the client. Cupping on the legs aids with that and is great for muscular injuries, tension, sciatica treatment and sports recovery. "These same areas can be approached with cupping techniques prior to hands-on technique or in combination with to achieve the same effect of releasing tension but with less discomfort,” says O'Brien. “It's great for work in IT (iliotibial) band area." Large and medium silicone cups are best for these treatments, but the plastic cups with the hand-held pump cups also work. "For the treatment of

IT band and sciatica issues, the cups are placed stationary for no more than 10 to 15 minutes and then removed,” says Lindsay-Joynt. “For a stubborn IT band, small and medium cups are used with cross-friction, and gliding methods are also used to help release adhesions." It also helps reduce the appearance of cellulite after six to 10 treatments and with regular maintenance. "Because the treatment of cellulite is a lymphatic drainage technique, the pathway to the inguinal region must be cleared first, then a method of gliding is utilized in the direction of the inguinal area,” adds Lindsay-Joynt. “This area can be tender, so lightly anchoring the skin can alleviate this."

Carrie Borzillo is an award-winning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@gmail.com.

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Cups Based on Your Clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Concerns by Carrie Borzillo

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Cupping Guide

f you're hiring a cupping therapist for your spa, most likely they will already have a preferred type of cup in mind for this ancient, alternative service. The most traditional method is with a glass cup, but some countries around the world use everything from bamboo and earthenware to ceramic, silicone and iron. Over the centuries, materials such as animal horns, gourds, and even seashells were used.

Glass Cups & Fire Traditional Chinese cupping uses glass cups with fire that are left on one spot for about five to 10 minutes. They are often used on larger areas of the body for deeper results. However, due to potential safety issues with the fire, most spas in the U.S. don't use this type. "A small flame, usually from a cotton ball soaked in alcohol, is inserted into the upside down cup,â&#x20AC;? says Amy Lindsay-Joynt, a licensed massage therapist at Milk + Honey, which has four locations in Texas. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This warms the cup and the flame eats up the oxygen creating a vacuum. The flame is removed and the cup quickly put in place. The vacuum affect draws up the underlying tissue, stagnant cellular waste and toxins to the surface, clearing the way for fresh blood supply and nutrients to the area."

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Cupping Guide

The most popular type of cups are silicone because they work great for the massage cupping technique.

Ummelina International Day Spa in Seattle, Wash., uses glass fire cups for flash cupping. "You would use flash cupping for lung issues, colds and smokers with a persistent cough. You quickly apply and remove the cup to clear out the lungs,” says Meghann Lawrence, chief of operations. “It's also great for specific lymphatic work. I love to massage with my glass cups because there's an authentic feeling that I appreciate. But, it's not great for shoulder work or the sides because if they fall they will break." Skin Apeel Day Spa in Boca Raton, Fla., uses four types of cups for their cupping services, including the traditional method. "Traditional fire cupping is more difficult to manage easily,” says Katharine Morse, an acupuncture physician at Skin Apeel. “But, I do use small hand-held suction glass cups for use in small spaces that require gentle procedures, generally around the neck."

Silicone Cups The most popular type of cups are silicone because they work great for the massage cupping technique, in which the cups are moved around the body for a massage-like effect. Unlike some other cups, they work on most body areas, including bony areas like the shoulder. "They're also often used for gentle relief in more tender areas of the body, on the elderly, the physically compro72

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mised, and for children to bring gentle results," says Morse. Lindsay-Joynt is a fan of these cups as well because "they conform and glide across the body and over bony prominences with ease." Elixir Mind Body Massage in Denver, Colo., uses a silicone cup with oil. "The cup is squeezed then placed on the skin to provide negative pressure and suction, and then moved slowly over areas to break up adhesions,” says Sandy Stroehmann, owner of Elixir Mind Body Massage. “It can leave marks, but not every time, and they usually dissipate much more quickly than the traditional cupping method." Another benefit to silicone is that, unlike glass cups, they don’t break when dropped.

Plastic Cups with Hand Pump Plastic cups with a mechanical handheld pump are another popular choice for their wide assortment of sizes and controllability factor. The cups often come with removable magnets for those trained in polarity work. "We use these because we are able to control the amount of suction better than with other cupping sets and the pieces to this set are such that allows for efficient and proper cleaning, and disinfecting for us," says Jessica O’Brien, corporate director of massage therapy at Bella Santé, which has three locations in Massachusetts. Milk + Honey likes these cups for their versatility. "They can be used for

the stationary work where a deeper suction is needed, and work well when the suction release technique is needed," says Lindsay-Joynt. She explains that she uses these cups for a lymphatic drainage clearing and sweep before and after the treatments, and that they work well in the areas of the head and neck where smaller cups are needed. "They're preferred for suction release technique or a light glide,” she says. “This is because that area is highly vascularized and sensitive, and for many there is a feeling of vulnerability in and around the neck."

Kangzhu Cups One of the lesser-used types of cups is the Kangzhu, a plastic cupping set that is durable, lightweight, and easy to use with a hand-gripped vacuum pump. "These hard plastic cups have a 'gun' that you pump to create the suction. This is great because you are in complete control over your suction,” explains Lawrence. “There is also a valve to relieve pressure as needed. They do not massage as easily as silicone cups, but are very good for static cupping and I love working the IT band [iliotibial band, which is located in the thigh] with Kangzhu cups." Also, there are more Kangzhu cups (12-24) in a set than with other types of sets. "This gives me enough to leave static cups on while I use other cups to massage with so I can work on more than one body part at a time," says Lawrence.

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Cupping Guide

The Ancient Practice of Skin Rejuvenation by Leslie L. DeMatteo

nterest in cupping is at a peak right now as a result of its use by Olympic athletes, but cupping has been used for thousands of years in China, Egypt and Greece. Most of us have heard of cupping applied to the body, but facial cupping offers many benefits as well! Cupping uses fire (flash cupping) or a pump and/or valve system to create a vacuum, resulting in negative pressure, or suction, pulling the skin and underlying tissue out and away from the body. This increases circulation to the skin and decreases restrictions in fascia and scar tissue.

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Cupping Guide

Using special cups designed for the delicate skin of the face, facial cupping offers many similar benefits. Tension in facial muscles is one of the biggest contributors to the appearance of aging. Facial cupping is gentle and relaxing. It also offers many health and beauty benefits as well, including: • Increased nutrients and oxygenation for healthier skin • Minimized lines and wrinkles • Reduced creping and increased skin tone • Reduced puffiness under eyes, chin and jowls • Diminished scar tissue • Reduction in headaches from eye strain • Relief from sinus pressure and congestion • Stimulation of collagen production resulting in improved elasticity • Detoxified skin from the drawing of impurities to the surface for removal • Relaxation of facial muscles for a younger, less stressed look • Reduction in acne over time • Decreased facial paralysis from certain conditions • Increased absorption of skin care products Overall, facial cupping improves the complexion and results in younger, firmer looking skin!

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Tension in facial muscles is one of the biggest contributors to the appearance of aging.

Cupping Guide

PROTOCOLS Facial cupping treatments typically last between 15 and 30 minutes, and can be used as an add-on to existing skin care services or as a stand-alone treatment. Special cups are used, which are smaller in diameter and contoured for the face. Sets either have a rubber bulb on the end to create suction or are made of silicone, which is squeezed, creating the vacuum necessary. Facial cupping sets run between $8.99 to $59.99, depending on size, style, count and brand of cups included. As with any type of facial services, facial cupping prices vary widely by region. Skin should be cleaned thoroughly before the treatment, and a light application of facial oil should be applied so cups can seal well and glide smoothly. Cups can be placed and left in one position, a technique called site cupping, or they can be slowly dragged across the face in a technique called gliding cupping. Site cupping is typically done over a particularly deep wrinkle in order to “plump” the area, bringing in fresh blood, oxygen and nutrients. Gliding cupping is done to reduce congestion and move the excess fluid to the near-

est lymphatic vessels to drain an area. Facial cupping uses a much gentler suction than cupping done on the body, and as such is painless and should never leave marks on the skin. When performing cupping, work each site or gliding pathway three times before moving to the next. Work one side of the face first, repeating on the other side. To perform gliding cupping, place cup with suction and drag two to three inches, then release in a slow, gentle, drawn-out “flicking” motion. Begin near the end point and work backward drawing fluid toward the lymphatics by clearing the drainage pathway. If you wanted to clear a room of furniture, you begin nearest the door, so too when clearing fluid, begin near the “exit”. Slower movements increase lymphatic drainage and reduce puffiness, while faster movements increase circulation and stimulate collagen, improving elasticity of the skin. Skin integrity can vary based on client age and health, so be careful that you are not using suction strong enough to break capillaries, bruise the skin or leave marks.

Step-by-Step: Photography by ACE Massage CuppingTM

2. 3. 4.

After cleansing the skin, begin along the clavicle with gliding cupping, using the “flicking” motion while working toward the under-side of the ear to increase lymphatic drainage. Start on the center line of the chin, using gliding cupping along the jaw moving toward the ear. Clear the upper lip by using gliding cupping, drawing fluid toward ear. If there are fine lines along lips, end by placing site cups for a few seconds to increase circulation to the area in order to minimize lines. Beginning along the side of the tip of the nose (working toward the bridge of the nose), use gliding cupping to draw fluid toward the side of the face. This may be repeated several times to reduce sinus congestion.

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Cupping Guide

Sun exposure should be avoided as skin may be sensitive for up to 12 hours after treatment.

Photography by ACE Massage CuppingTM

If time allows, return to the clavicle and side of neck, clearing lymphatics again to stimulate drainage. 6. Beginning just under the inside corner of the eye, slowly glide toward the outside edge of the eye orbit, drawing fluid and stagnant blood away from the under eye area. 7. Beginning at the inside of the eye orbit, suction slowly across the top of the orbit, just under the brow moving toward the outside edge of the eye to reduce puffiness above the eye. 8. Place cup between eyes and allow it to rest (site cupping) for a few seconds, before drawing up toward the hairline. 9. Beginning in the center of the forehead, use gliding cupping to follow three lines: the first directly above the brow, the second along the middle of the forehead, and the third just below the hair line. Glide the cup from the mid-line of the face toward the lateral edge of the face, just above the ear. 10. Return to the clavicle and clear the neck and lymphatic vessels again, working back to the underside of the ear and up to the side of the face, for a final lymphatic drainage.

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Cupping Guide

PRE- and POST-CUPPING INSTRUCTIONS Clients should be advised to avoid makeup the day of treatment in order to minimize impurities in the skin. Clients should also be encouraged to stay well-hydrated both before and after treatment to maximize the benefits. Shaving or other hair removal should be avoided on the day of the cupping treatment as skin will be more sensitive. Excessive heat or sun exposure should also be avoided as skin may be sensitive for up to 12 hours after treatment. As with any facial, cupping draws impurities to the surface and there may be a breakout immediately after treatment, so cupping should be avoided within three to five days before an event like a wedding. The risk of post-treatment breakouts, called a “healing crisis”, diminishes with regular treatments.

CONTRAINDICATIONS Contraindications for facial cupping are similar to those for any skin care services. They include:

TRAINING Classes in facial cupping can run between $250 and $350 for a one-day training and often cover the meridians and acupressure points; the lymphatic vessels and muscles; and the application of cupping techniques for the face. Laws vary by state, as do regulations governing skin care providers, massage therapists and acupuncturists. Facial cupping may fall under the purview of “cosmetology”, “esthetics”, “massage therapy” or possibly “acupuncture” licensing requirements. Check with your individual state to ensure you are within the scope of practice for your license before you begin offering facial cupping. 

Leslie L. DeMatteo, a New York state licensed massage therapist, has been a professional level member of the Associated Bodywork & Massage Professionals and certified by the National Board for Therapeutic Massage & Bodywork since 1998. She has worked in the massage therapy field since graduating from the Sarasota School of Massage Therapy in Sarasota, Fla., where she studied Swedish massage and Nuad-Bo-Rarn, the traditional bodywork of Thailand. In addition to years of hands-on experience, DeMatteo also has an extensive background in the field of continuing education for massage therapists.

REFERENCES

Gellis, M. (2011). An ancient art for ageless skin. Acupuncture Today. 12(12). Retrieved on 9/5/16 from http://www.acupuncturetoday.com/mpacms/at/article.php?id=32490. Huijuan, C.; Xun, L.; Jianping, L. (2012). An updated review of the efficacy of cupping therapy. PLoS

• Cold sores • Open wounds, sores (severe acne), cuts and abrasions • Undiagnosed lumps or swelling • Fresh bruising • Melanoma or other cancers • Eczema, dermatitis or psoriasis • Bleeding for any reason • Broken capillaries • Moles, skin tags and warts

One. 7(2): e31793. Retrieved on 9/5/16 from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3289625/. Irzyk, S. (2015). A natural facelift: Chinese facial cupping. New Direction, Natural Medicine. Retrieved on 9/5 16 from http://newdirectionnaturalmedicine.com/cupping/a-natural-facelift-chinese-facial-cupping/. Kam Lun E. Hon; David Chi Kong Luk; Kin Fon Leong; Alexander K. C. Leung. (2013). Cupping therapy may be harmful for eczema: A PubMed search. Case Reports in Pediatrics. Retrieved on 9/5/16 from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3825217/. Shannon, A. (2016). Cupping therapy: Relief for the face, head and neck. Massage Magazine. Retrieved on 9/5/16 from https://www.massagemag.com/cupping-therapy-relief-for-the-face-head-and-neck-34550/.

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Bonus benefit The cupping massage provides a boosted immune system!

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Cupping Guide

The Ultimate PostHoliday Detox by Alma Bocanegra

he history of Chinese cupping dates back to the year 281 A.D. It was an ancient Taoist medical practice and was widely used in the courts of Imperial China. Traditional Chinese Cupping (Traditional Chinese Medicine) is a method of creating a vacuum on the skin to relieve stagnation of the blood and lymph, thereby improving chi flow. It was and is still used today to treat a variety of illnesses. Cupping works by creating suction and negative pressure to drain excess fluids and toxins from the skin and lymph system. It stimulates the peripheral nervous system, increases blood flow to stagnant areas within the muscles and skin, and can also loosen scars and adhesions in connective tissue and knots in muscles. Cupping can also be used to break down and minimize the look and feel of cellulite.

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Cupping Guide as well as hemorrhagic diseases such as hemophilia and leukemia, skin destruction or allergic dermatitis. Cupping should not be applied to an area where a hernia exists or has occurred in the past, nor should it be done if lymph nodes have been removed (unless performed by a certified lymphedema therapist). Pregnant women should wait until their second trimester to receive their first treatment, and even then it should be shortened to no more than 30 minutes. Prior to treatment, ask your clients if they are on any type of blood thinners, are diabetic, or have high or low blood pressure. For these clients, you need to modify the treatment and give them extra time to rest before getting up from the massage table. Cupping massage tends to affect the body in the same way as a deep tissue massage. Advise your client that they may experience some muscle soreness, similar to the feeling following a hard workout. The treatment should not be painful, but it can be uncomfortable depending on the tension of the muscle and fascia. Encourage your client to communicate any discomfort or pain so you can adjust the suction to accommodate their preferences.

CONTRAINDICATIONS

PRECAUTIONS AND CONTRAINDICATIONS It should be understood that cupping massage is different from Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) cupping. TCM cupping is stationary and left on the skin for a period of time, which leaves discolorations, similar to bruising, on the skin because the blood is being suctioned to the surface of the skin, whereas in a cupping massage the skin is oiled and the cups are constantly moving over the skin. Generally, there are no marks left on the skin following a cupping massage. However, depending 82

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on the individual’s sensitivity and toxicity level, there could be some slight reddening and discoloration, which usually disappears within a day or so. Cupping detoxification massage should be done no more than twice in a week, and never on consecutive days. As with any massage treatment, there are contraindications for a cupping massage. Cupping is not recommended in cases of severe diseases, such as cardiac failure, renal failure, hepato-cirrhosis and severe edema,

• Broken bones • Dislocations • Slipped disks (the spine should always be avoided) • Clients undergoing cancer treatments such as radiation • Some types of lymphedema • Sunburn • Ruptured, ulcerated, inflamed skin • Fever • Dehydration • Bleeding disorders • Acute stages of psoriasis, eczema or rosacea

Cupping Guide

PROTOCOL A detoxifying cupping massage can be performed in various ways depending on the therapist and the needs of the client. The following protocol provides an effective method for a detoxifying massage using silicone cups. *Note that the treatment explained here is only a segment of the full treatment and should be done by a professional who is trained in cupping and lymphatic drainage massage. Begin with your client in a prone position, and oil their back. Then squeeze the silicone cup and place it on their skin, suctioning it up into the cup. The cup can then be moved over the back — up, down and side to side (not over the spine), lifting the skin. This process pulls fluids closer to the surface. Drain the fluid by moving the cup toward the axillary lymph nodes (located under the arm). After the back is done, move on to the arms. Working on each arm individually, oil the hand and arm. Place the cup on the palm of the hand while twisting the cup. Then work on the arm, moving up and down and back and forth on the forearm and upper arm, up to the shoulder. Finish the arms by draining the fluid toward the axillary nodes.

After finishing the treatment on the back and arms, oil the feet and legs. The massage begins by twisting the cup on the bottom of the foot, similar to the technique used on the hands. Cupping up through the calf and thigh, suction the skin around the ankle and move up, down, back and forth, side to side, doing the same with the calf and thigh. When the process is completed on the leg, drain the fluid by moving the cups in an upward motion on the calf to the popliteal nodes, behind the knees, and continuing up the thigh toward the inguinal nodes, located at the groin. Ask the client to turn over, and continue the treatment on the front of the body. Begin working on the legs by oiling and repeating the same cupping massage movements previously performed on the back of the body. Complete the treatment on the front of the legs, moving up toward the inguinal nodes. Cupping on the abdominal area is very beneficial for gastrointestinal issues. (This portion of the treatment is optional.) For this portion of the treatment, place the cup just under the left ribs and move downward, following along the descending colon.

Then move the cup to just under the right ribs and across the transverse colon, then down the descending colon again. Place the cup at the beginning of the ascending colon and move it up to transverse and then descend, finishing with a circular motion following the colon. Move onto the arms, oiling them and following the same movements as the back of the body, up and down and back and forth. Drain the fluid by moving the cups up toward the axillary nodes. Finally, move to the head of the table and oil the décolleté, top of the shoulders and neck. Begin cupping the décolleté at the center of the chest (sternum) and move outward toward the axillary nodes on both the right and left sides. Move this process up to the top of the shoulders, always draining the fluid toward the axillary nodes. Then turn the head to the side and cup from the top of the neck (hairline) down toward the clavicle, moving downward only, finishing in at least three to four passes. This completes the cupping detox massage. After concluding the treatment, advise your clients to drink plenty of water and take it easy for the rest of the day. They may have a headache and fatigued muscles, similar to the feeling of coming down with a cold. Assure them that these symptoms are normal following a detoxification treatment, and that they should be feel better the next day after resting and sleeping.

Alma Bocanegra is a licensed massage therapist and educator for PINO Natural Spa Therapy. She also owns Soultouch Education, LLC and maintains a massage practice. Bocanegra provides continuing education credits for hydrotherapy spa applications, soul stones, myofascial massage, lymphatic drainage, business, ethics, cupping massage, sticks and stones and deep myo-stretch. Contact her at abocanegra@pinospa.com or almabocanegra@gmail.com.

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Cupping Guide

A Soothing Treat for the Feet by Anita Shannon

The benefits of professional foot care have created a multitude of loyal spa clients, and progressive facilities are always on the lookout for worthwhile additions to their service menus. Vacuum therapy has long been a standard in the facial room, and since facials often include a hand and foot massage, many practitioners have experimented with the vacuum for clients presenting swollen hands or feet. However, most facial vacuum machines work well for moving lymph with gentle suction, yet lack the strong vacuum necessary for affecting deeper structures of the feet.

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Cupping Guide

anual cupping equipment that works well for this application includes a vacuum pistol with connecting tube and polycarbonate cups, silicone cup sets and magnetic microcups. Modern machines with a wide range of suction strengths and pumping modalities have made the work more consistent and much easier on the practitioner. The important investment is in quality education for practitioners. Live workshops are a valuable experience, and online classes provide a solid start and ongoing reference source. Durable equipment is reasonably priced, and increased revenues pay these investments off quickly. The most compelling reason to integrate vacuum therapies into spa services is their wide range of applications, along with the quick results the treatments produce. Many clients have issues with their feet that severely affect their quality of life. A practitioner with thorough training can work miracles for clients who live with painful conditions such as Plantar Fasciitis, neuropathies, arthritis and bunions. A few minutes of pedi-cupping on tired, stiff, aching feet leaves them feeling revitalized and supple, with increased blood flow and stimulated drainage of accumulated lymph. Pedicupping is used to liquefy and move this material from the congested area and direct it toward the lymph nodes to increase mobility and decrease discomfort in the foot.

Bunions A bunion is a very bothersome issue, characterized by a bony bump that forms on the joint at the base of the big toe as the big toe pushes inward against the next toe, forcing the joint to expand and stick out. Short of surgery, not much can be done to correct this issue, but muscles and connective tissue in the foot and leg are compensating for the structural problem. Therefore pedi-cupping 86

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Neuropathy brings in blood flow and softens tight tissue by gently stretching and separating bound layers.

Surgical Recovery There are a multitude of reasons for surgical procedures on the foot, and recovery can be difficult. Pedi-cupping is so beneficial for reduction of scars and swelling from recent surgery, and even old surgical sites can be successfully treated.

Arthritis Clients with rheumatoid and osteoarthritis often exhibit stiff, dry joints that are painful to move and sensitive to the touch. Cupping on the feet is used to gently mobilize the joints and surrounding tissue, as well as attract blood and beneficial fluids to the area.

Neuropathies affect the feet with numbness and/or pain and impair many daily activities for sufferers. Pedi-cupping is used to drain the foot of lymph and debris, relax soft tissue, and soothe the nerve endings by moving inflammation to the skin surface via dilated blood vessels.

Plantar Fasciitis Plantar fasciitis is one of the most common causes of foot pain. It involves inflammation of a thick band of tissue (plantar fascia) that runs across the bottom of the foot and connects the heel bone to the toes. This painful condition affects a very large number of people and relief for the client makes a powerful impact on their life. If the client comes in for series of treatments twice per week, they will see powerful results for this condition.

Cupping Guide

Micro-cup Magnets These little powerhouses can produce amazing changes when used for mere minutes. The main benefit of magnetic therapy is that it changes pH and polarity of the area to catalyze the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural healing and pain relief mechanisms. There are a variety of sets available that deliver quick results.

Simple Treatment Protocol The following basic 10-minute protocol is easily added into any service, often without adding additional time. For topicals, use only creams or lotions for pedi-cupping, since oils tend to make maintaining suction on the plantar surface difficult. Manual sets and machines usually come with small cup sizes that work best for the top and bottom of the foot, and larger cup sizes to be used if the calf muscles need to be addressed. Begin by applying the cream or lotion, using the application to identify tight, swollen or sensitive areas. Use a deep and slow pumping method with a small cup to gently stretch the tight fascia and inflamed tendons on the entire bottom of the foot. Elevate the foot to treat the Achilles Tendon on both sides with the same pumping technique, then change to a larger cup to soften and relax the calf muscles. Finish with a gentle pumping technique using a medium-sized cup up the front of the leg, and then use a small cup to work the top of the foot and once up the front of the lower leg. Switch and repeat on the other leg, working five minutes on each limb.

indication to this treatment, and caution should be taken with clients who have diabetes or are on blood thinners. If there has been a recent surgery on the foot, a general rule is to avoid the area for around eight weeks. Clients with glucose monitors, spinal stimulators or pacemakers should not be exposed to the magnets, and those who are receiving radiation or chemotherapy treatments should not receive any vacuum therapies unless the practitioner is highly trained in oncology massage. It is important to always keep the suction strength and techniques comfortable for the client and they should not experience any pain. Discolorations are rare, but those that do occur do not represent bruises or tissue damage.

Grow Your Business Spas and wellness facilities can benefit from a recommended 20 percent add-on to treatment prices without increasing service time, and once clients experience pedi-cupping and its benefits, they recognize and value of this amazing modality. As client requests increase, new stand-alone treatments can be developed that include up to 30 minutes of pedi-cupping. Depending on geographical region, a standalone

treatment can range anywhere from $45 to $75. Prices tend to lean toward the higher end when combined with treatments such as paraffin dips or therapeutic topicals like essential oils. Introduce your current clients to pedi-cupping with a complimentary 10-minute pedi-cupping treatment addon to their massage, facial, pedicure or reflexology session. As the practitioners gain more experience with the techniques, your reputation for excellence in foot care will attract new clients and professional referrals.

Anita Shannon has been licensed in massage therapy and cosmetology since 1983, and an educator since 1990. She appears at national health and wellness conventions and presents workshops on ACE Massage Cuppingâ&#x201E;˘ and MediCuppingâ&#x201E;˘ at international locations since developing these brands of bodywork in 2002. Shannon has published multiple articles in transnational publications and comprehensive educational videos on vacuum manual therapies. She was inducted into the Massage Therapy Hall of Fame in 2011 and has created an online continuing education resource dedicated to vacuum manual therapies.

Safety There can be risks with any type of massage, and you should inquire about the client's health before commencing the pedi-cupping treatment. Any history of deep vein thrombosis or other serious vascular issues is usually a contraLNEonline.com

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FERMENTED

ingredients THE SURPRISING SOURCE OF BIOAVAILABILITY by Don Owen, Ph.D. Originating as a Korean trend, trendy ethnic foods such as kimchi and kombucha are now becoming known around the world for their unforeseen benefits in the realm of skin care. Their unique, fermented ingredients have been shown to improve gut health as well as the overall appearance of skin. Hence, it makes perfect sense that they are now a groundbreaking topical skin care trend. These fermented ingredients can be consumed with food and can also be applied to the body and face, either way working wonders for the skin.

INSIDE OUT BENEFITS

Fermentation is the process of biologically enhancing ingredients to increase their nutritional value. Typically used for fruits and vegetables, this method involves soaking food in salt water, allowing natural bacteria to grow. The natural bacteria subsequently feeds on the starch to generate lactic acid, resulting in preserved food and the creation of vitamin B, probiotics, omega 3 fatty acids and enzymes.

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o&w fermented ingredients The gut requires an increase of good bacteria to maintain a healthy system; an abundant amount of this good bacteria can be found in fermented foods. Research proves that the dietary intake of fermented foods aids digestion, promotes gut health, detoxifies the body, beautifies the skin and enhances nutrient absorption. The benefits that fermented foods have in everyday nutritional and beauty care prove how this innovative usage of ingredients is highly beneficial in skin care treatments today. The body transports nutrients to our most imperative organs first, and therefore the primary places where dietary insufficiencies appear are on the skin, hair and nails. This is why healthy bacteria in the gut is crucial to good health and glowing skin.

TOPICAL APPLICATION BENEFITS

Fermented ingredients work just as favorably when used ON the skin. The unique topical application benefits of fermented ingredients include the following: FERMENTED INGREDIENTS BOOST ANTIOXIDANT LEVELS. This enhances the overall beneficial effect of antioxidants on the skin. FERMENTED INGREDIENTS BOOST BIOAVAILABILITY. When used in topical skin care, the fermentation method intensifies the bioavailability of ingredients, meaning they can be absorbed at a deeper, more profound level. FERMENTED INGREDIENTS ARE “BROKEN DOWN” INTO TINIER MOLECULES. This allows them to be easily absorbed, making penetrating, hydrating, repairing and soothing skin more effective and less complex. FERMENTED INGREDIENTS PROVIDE ENHANCED NUTRIENT DENSITY AND CONCENTRATION OF PEPTIDES, PROTEINS, ANTIOXIDANTS AND AMINO ACIDS. Fermented ingredients boost the efficiency and effectiveness of these properties. THE FERMENTATION PROCESS DOES NOT ALLOW BAD MICROORGANISMS TO SURVIVE. This means fewer preservatives are needed, which eliminates irritation that can be associated with them. FERMENTED INGREDIENTS BOOST CELLULAR TURNOVER. The process of fermentation naturally produces enzymes and amino acids that speed up skin cell turnover.

FERMENTED TOPICAL INGREDIENTS

Sea kelp Quinoa Brown rice Chickpeas EDIBLE FERMENTED INGREDIENTS

Sauerkraut kimchee yogurt miso kefir

FERMENTED INGREDIENTS TREAT SENSITIVE SKIN WITHOUT IRRITATION. Fermentation breaks down particles, allowing products to retain their effectiveness, but also become milder and penetrate skin more effectively. This provides successful skin care results without redness, sensitivity or acne breakouts. FERMENTED INGREDIENTS DETOXIFY AND PROTECT THE SKIN. Similar to how they work in the gut, fermented ingredients eliminate harmful bacteria that can cause acne and irritation topically. As a result, this helps reduce inflammation on the skin.  Don Owen, Ph.D., is CEO/CSO of Owen Biosciences, Owen BioPharma, Inc. and Therapeutic Peptides, Inc. Dr. Owen holds more than 25 patents in organ preservation technology, dermally active peptides and skin care related fields.

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Mindfulness in your Spa CREATING THE ULTIMATE MIND, BODY AND SPIRIT TRANSFORMATION by BARBARA BYRNE

indfulness training is being touted in corporate offices from Google to Goldman Sachs, in private schools across the country, media outlets such as Time Magazine and The Huffington Post, and even in scientific journals as the antidote to our information overloaded, stressful lifestyles. Spas that expand their healthy menu offerings to include mindfulness training provide their guests and members the ultimate in mind, body and spirit transformation.

WHAT IS MINDFULNESS?

Mindfulness is simply defined as the practice of becoming aware of the present moment. It is a natural fit within the spa experience, providing techniques that emphasize maintaining focus on body sensations and calming the mind. Expanding upon that definition, mindfulness practice cultivates the skill of intensely paying attention, countering all the busyness, as multi-tasking is now a ubiquitous part of our demanding lives.

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o&w mindfulness in your spa

Mindfulness training starts by teaching participants to focus exclusively on one sensation. Initially, the focus is placed on the one sensation that is always accessible — the simple act of breathing. While keeping the body still and feeling the breath enter and leave the body without any effort, we can rest in each breath. Within a nanosecond, our attention tends to drift, but the skill is developed and honed by gently bringing our attention back to the breath. Our minds are forever fixed on the future or the past. We routinely suppress physical sensations and are taught to repress emotions. Challenging that unconscious lifestyle, mindfulness teaches us to re-focus our attention, to acknowledge our rising emotions, note body sensations and observe our thoughts so that our decision to act is a conscious response versus a habitual reaction. It is simple but difficult to master, and provides the opportunity to be completely available to the moments of our lives. When we master mindfulness, we can more fully experience life, listen intently to our children or partners, feel the sunshine and soft breeze on our bodies, savor the explosion of flavors from our food, and be conscious of the judgmental chatter in our heads.

THE SCIENTIFIC FOUNDATION The typical spa guest is invested in enhancing their well-being. Scientific research has proven that learning and implementing mindfulness techniques provides substantial physical and psychological benefits, making it a perfect concept to incorporate into the spa experience. Mindfulness training was first developed by Jon Kabat-Zinn in the early 1980s for chronically ill patients at the University of Massachusetts. Kabat-Zinn re-engineered the foundation of Buddhist meditation as a stepby step, secular training now verified by scientific study.

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A recent study published by the University of Wisconsin showed improvement in the immune systems of participants who practiced mindfulness techniques after receiving the flu vaccine. Even patients with compromised immune functions have benefited; one recent study of HIV positive patients was shown to have increased participants’ immune system CD-4 “helper cells” after mindfulness training. Other studies verify that mindfulness training lowers blood pressure, heart rate and levels of cortisol, commonly referred to as the “stress hormone”.

Mindfulness training also boosts psychological well-being by reducing diagnosable symptoms of anxiety and depression. In 2014, the Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA) published a John Hopkins University review of recent research on mindfulness and concluded that mindfulness quells the thoughts that increase the symptoms of these psychological conditions.

IMPLEMENTING MINDFULNESS TRAINING The science is clear on the health

o&w mindfulness in your spa

photo by: lenina11only / Shutterstock.com

benefits of mindfulness, and so the next step is to integrate mindfulness training sessions into the wellness options available to spa guests and members. The introduction of mindfulness can be initiated in small doses. For example, first offer short sessions lasting from 30 to 45 minutes, including two 10-minute guided practice techniques and inquiries directed by the teacher about the participants’ experiences. These introductory sessions allow guests and members to sample the practice, process their unique experience and understand its relationship in dealing with the stresses of their lives. Additionally, introductory sessions focused on concepts like mindful eating or mindful walking can introduce the client to the concept of mindfulness. These techniques may attract the curious, as well as those seeking to address goals such as healthy eating and exercise. The gold standard in effective mindfulness training is conducted in multiple training sessions, typically once a week, over a six to eight-week time period, often with sessions longer in

duration, approximately between 60 and 90 minutes. For all of its benefits, mindfulness is not merely relaxation, or clearing the mind — two universal myths about mindfulness. Initially, the practice of mindfulness can actually result in uncomfortable sensations and emotions, including frustration. Mindfulness training paced over the course of several weeks allows participants to progress through these and other obstacles with the guidance of a trained teacher. During this period they will also receive specific education around the nature of the mind, the distraction of thoughts, the origin and lifespan of emotions, and the dominance of the body as the emissary for the mind and the heart. These concepts, as well as information about the physiology of stress and the neurology of attention, are didactically presented in the context of the various mindfulness techniques introduced throughout the training: mindful sitting, body scan, mindful movement, mindful walking and mindful eating. These training sessions are

most effectively marketed to spas with local members who are available for this type of commitment.

ESCAPE INTO MINDFULNESS Another way spas can implement mindfulness is through “events”, such as all-day or half-day mindfulness retreats for those guests looking to grow or intensify their practice. These special gatherings can emphasize particular varieties of mindfulness with sessions that focus on sound (chanting, drumming, singing bowls, bells), coloring, painting or other creative activities, all conducted in silence with mindful instruction and facilitation. Incorporating mindfulness training sessions into a vacation or weekend getaway spa package can attract out of town guests, and can also be a unique service offered to residents and the surrounding community to increase membership. Spas are also the perfect place to maintain weekly, routine mindfulness drop-in sessions, providing availability and continuity to deepen one’s practice.

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o&w mindfulness in your spa

VETTING MINDFULNESS TRAINERS If mindfulness training is to be effective, it must be facilitated by teachers trained specifically in mindfulness. Suf ficiently trained mindfulness teachers are, first and foremost, experienced themselves, with years of personal and intense practice under their belts, including attendance at residential silent retreats. Professional mindfulness teachers have engaged in specific mindfulness teacher training. The University of Massachusetts and University of California San Diego are two universities that have the most credentialed mindfulness teacher training programs, although there are reputable online training programs as well. Any program should include live supervision or consultation with an ex-

perienced teacher. Teachers that have a background in counseling and education are often skilled at creating the mandatory â&#x20AC;&#x153;safe spaceâ&#x20AC;? while modeling the compassion necessary when participants experience the inevitable personal insights and revelations resulting from the stillness of mindfulness practice. To ensure meaningful outcomes for your guests, be cautious about employing certified yoga teachers or anyone who only has meditation experience, but lacks formal mindfulness teacher training. Mindfulness training is clearly emerging as the next big step in maintaining a comprehensive healthy lifestyle. Mindfulness practice and the spa experience share the goals of being present, creating space and time

for calm while aligning the mind and body. This natural intersection is an opportunity for progressive spas to position themselves on the cutting edge of this cultural evolution with life changing mindfulness training for their guests and members. ď Ž

Barbara Byr ne has been a licensed psychotherapist for more than 25 years. She is also an experienced and professionally trained mindfulness instructor. Byrne created Mindful Way Solutions, dedicated to bringing the benefits of mindfulness training to adults and youth.

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Healthy Aging Anti-Aging V ER S US

Understanding the Holistic Client

aby boomers make up a large portion of the beauty market, primarily purchasing anti-aging products and services. The range of offerings in the industry grows daily. For the most part, however, the industry is failing to attract the holistic customer, which comprises a very large group of untapped clients. One reason may be a misunderstanding of who the holistic customer is and

what they are looking for in terms of services and products. Just who is this holistic customer? Despite stereotypes of an individual with long, straight grey hair, no makeup, sandals and an â&#x20AC;&#x153;of the canyonâ&#x20AC;? appearance, in truth they tend to be fashion forward, highly polished and successful. Like any other client they are interested in looking and feeling their best, and they seek out products and treatments to help them achieve that.

by Linda Marrical

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o&w healthy aging vs anti-aging

key LANGUAGE Holistic means “the whole picture”. The holistic client is interested in anything that will benefit their complete health, which includes the mind, body and heart. To the holistic individual, a term like “antiaging” literally means death, as that is the only proven process that stops aging. Language like “healthy aging”, on the other hand, speaks directly to them as an obtainable and desired goal. Perhaps unlike other clients, the holistic client’s first interest when making any type of purchase is how it will make them feel, more so than how it will make them look. It must enhance their overall health, as it is their belief that looking good is only a reflection of how well they feel. The holistic client is not interested in looking “younger” than their age but rather “wonderful” for their age. They wear their years proudly.

key DISTINCTIONS The first step to attracting this very large market is to use language that reflects the healthy aspects of the service or product. Terms such as “natural”, “organic”, “noninvasive”, ”gentle”, “healthy”, “works from the inside out”, and “feels wonderful” get their attention. Words and terms like “Botox”, “injections”, needling”, “laser”, “create younger skin by traumatizing”, “surgical” and “medical” as applied to beauty treatments will send them running out the door. As with anything, there is a range of what the holistic client will purchase for aging and beauty. They may only use certified organic products for a facial and home care. They may try “alternative” treatments such as acupuncture, acupressure, massage, etc. The holistic client may also try vitamin supplements to enhance skin, hair and nails. They may consider peels and microdermabrasion as well, as these treatments are less invasive than injections of Botox and fillers.

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update YOUR MENU Spas and salons that offer services such as Botox, fillers, microneedling and lasers should consider creating two separate menus of services — one for the more invasive treatments and one for holistic treatments. The holistic customer will not use the invasive services anyway, and will feel understood if they have their holistic alternatives presented to them in a way that does not make them appear as an afterthought or the services that most people don’t want. This can be likened to the one vegetarian offering at the bottom of a traditional restaurant menu full of amazing non-vegetarian selections. The holistic services and products should instead be offered as the “upgraded” edition for that unique client. Services such as acupuncture, acupressure, aromatherapy, reflexology, shiatsu and other healthy aging treatments are attractive to the holistic client. Price points can be in line with your other services. This client will pay for services that they feel enhance their overall health, and they will not purchase anything that might in any way negatively affect their health and wellbeing. They will consider treatments like Botox, fillers, microneedling, lasers and most of all surgical procedures as far too invasive.

KEY POINTS ON CATERING TO THE HOLISTIC CLIENT  TERMS LIKE “NATURAL”, “ORGANIC” AND “NON-

INVASIVE” WILL GET THEIR ATTENTION.

 PROVIDE A SEPARATE

MENU FOR THE HOLISTIC SERVICES.

 BE PREPARED TO OFFER A GAME PLAN TO HELP THEM REACH GOALS.

 OFFER A QUIET,

COMFORTABLE AREA TO SIT AND TRANSITION BEFORE AND AFTER SERVICES.

COMMON CHARACTERISTICS OF THE HOLISTIC CLIENT  THEY ARE INTERESTED

IN OPTIONS THAT BENEFIT THEIR COMPLETE HEALTH, INCLUDING MIND, BODY AND HEART.

 THEY WANT SERVICES AND PRODUCTS THAT

ENHANCE THEIR OVERALL HEALTH.

holistic CONSULTATION The holistic client expects the practitioners providing services to also provide a game plan to help them achieve their goal. Your staff should be prepared to offer dietary suggestions, exercises, vitamin supplements, herbal products, aromatherapy and skin products for daily use. Many spa professionals may not be trained at this level of the holistic approach, but taking classes in holistic modalities is a good start. Also, there are already many trained professionals to be found who are holistic practitioners. This client is also looking for a complete experience when visiting a spa or salon. They want to feel relaxed, well cared for, understood and uplifted. Offer a transition area, especially if hair salon services are also offered. This is a quiet, comfortable place to unwind and let the outside world go before their treatment. After their treatment invite them to sit and enjoy the relaxation of the transition area again before going back to their world. Offering something healthy to eat, as well as tea or flavored water, provides the complete experience the holistic client expects. The holistic client is worth the work. They are loyal, and can be a great source of referrals. They are happy to pay for something that enhances their life. Taking the steps to become a holistic business creates an atmosphere of wellness, growth and positive results on all levels. That’s just the way holistic works! 

 THEY ARE MORE

INTERESTED IN HOW THEY FEEL THAN HOW THEY LOOK.

Linda Marrical is an acupressure/shiatsu practitioner and owner of The Healing Touch Center in Havertown, Pa. Her

 THEY ARE NOT TRYING TO LOOK YOUNGER, BUT RATHER WONDERFUL FOR THEIR AGE.

holistic center offers acupressure, shiatsu, massage, facials, skin care products and herbal products for pain. Marrical created Life Lift, The Acupressure/Shiatsu Healthy Aging Treatment. She offers continuing education classes for estheticians and massage practitioners. For more information visit healing-touch-center.com.

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ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & Wellness News

primitive nourishment A special ingredient in a licorice root. Used for skin care by ancient royalty like Alexander the Great, King Tut and Julius Cesar, Primitive Botanicals is a comprehensive skin care system that takes us a step back to the basics of nature. Successfully paired with each other and with other natural plantbased ingredients to gently and more effectively care for skin.

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cranberry craving

Marie D’Argan's Anti-Age Face Scrub is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells. Formulated with cranberries, sunflower seed oil, grade seed oil and sea salt, the scrub is enriched with fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6) that moisturize the face, leaving skin soft, smooth and bright.

all-natural infatuation Give your clients kissable breath this Valentine’s Day with Moondani Naturals’ mystic mint breath spray. Made entirely from vegan and organic ingredients, this mini freshener contains zero additives, preservatives, alcohols or sweeteners. One spray cures bad breath for hours! This breath mist fits perfectly into a makeup bag or pocket, giving your clients the convenience and confidence they need throughout their entire date!

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age defying phenomenon

Diopin™ Wrinkle Diffusing Serum is PACKED with vitamins and certified organic botanicals to stimulate new cell growth and brighten hyperpigmentation. The combination of gotu kola, tomato (lycopene), chamomile, birch bark, cedarwood, panax ginseng and panthenol boosts collagen production and reduces skin redness. Powerful bisabolol enhances ingredient penetration while smoothing wrinkles. Brought to you by Nature Pure.

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Beautiful Skin Begins with Seaweed Original Seaweed C-SerumÂ® Since 1980. ISO

9001 CERTIFIED COMPANY

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Eyebrows Speak Louder Than Words Business Advice for Beauty Professionals With

Christy Apitsch

Owner of Pittsburgh Beauty Bar, Pittsburgh, Pa.

SERVICES AND RETAIL What is the best part about shaping a client’s eyebrows? In 2016, people are so much more aware of their brows; it has become a huge phenomenon. The most gratifying feeling is when my clients look in the mirror and are satisfied with the instant results of our brow services. Shaping clients’ eyebrows and showing them the potential of what their brows could actually look like is a very rewarding feeling. When did you decide to implement brow services into your spa? I started off working for another company that solely did eyebrow threading.

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They educated me on how to perform the service and ever since I learned, I never stopped! After two years I decided to open my own threading salon. Now I am the owner of Pittsburgh Beauty Bar — a threading salon and day spa. As the owner of your salon and spa, how do you select your brow artists? We are a woman owned and operated salon. Especially in the beauty industry, there is SO MUCH to learn and the continuing education is ALL the time. I look for young, thriving women who are motivated to learn new techniques and eager to study upcoming practices in

the beauty industry. Every time a new method or skill comes out, I want to master it. I seek out professionals who have that same drive. What specific brow treatments do you offer? We have a signature brow service at Pittsburgh Beauty Bar. It includes either a brow threading or waxing, clients can choose either. They can also have their eyebrows tinted. We finalize the service by highlighting or concealing the brow to ensure our clients leave the salon with perfect brows.

BROW AREA Please describe your brow area compared to the rest of your salon. We are a full service salon; the only service we do not provide is hair. We have a small, two-desk area dedicated to nails, one spa room and two threading salon chairs in our area. The one private spa room is used for facials, body treatments and waxing.

MARKETING How do you promote your brow services? We have two things: an amazing rewards program and a thriving referral service. Our rewards program is very simple and the client does not have to sign up for anything. Once they are in our system, they are automatically in our rewards program. For every dollar they spend, no matter on a product or a service, they receive five percent back. The referral is great as well because being in an industry with so many women, we get asked constantly where we get our brows done. If you refer someone and they come in and tell us your name, you receive a $2 credit on your next service. For every person you refer you get $2.

and newsletters to update our clients on any new employees we may have brought in or new products or services we have recently began to offer.

INSIDER TIPS What trends are you currently seeing? The newest upcoming trend is microblading, or brow stroking. This is a technique that consists of a professional cosmetically tattooing hair as brow strokes onto a client. This is a very natural, innovative technique that my employees and I are actually in the process of signing up for a course on so that we will be able to offer the service within the next few months. How do you perform consultations? I always let new clients know from the start that we do our threading with their natural brow shape. We never try to create something a client doesn’t already have. We sit down with them and let them know we are going to give them a nice clean up and give them their own perfect shape.

Do you have rituals or methods of creating positive energy in your spa? We are known for our music! All of our employees here enjoy different genres of music so we play a variety that allows us to please everyone. We sometimes have themed music days where we will play all 90’s music and the energy in our spa is always uplifting and energetic. What does your business do that makes it unique from the competition? We are located in the hip, young and thriving area of South Side in Pittsburgh. We are the only salon in the area that has our own freestanding salon, while our competition is located inside of a mall or shopping center. We are our own separate entity in a very central location of the city accessible to everyone. 

Deliver 100 percent customer service ALL the time!

Are estheticians in your spa trained to promote these promotions and services after each treatment? Yes, absolutely! Our team members are trained in every service we provide. We are always encouraging our clients to refer us to someone they may know and bring them in for a visit! How do you use social media to promote your services? We love to showcase before and after pictures to show our clients the work we do on a daily basis. We use Facebook, Twitter and Instagram regularly to promote events, specials and openings. We also send out email blasts

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Enhance the eyes with makeup based on color theory

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As a makeup artist

and educator, the question I receive more than any other is: “What color would be best for my eyes?” It’s not surprising that consumers feel overwhelmed or confused by the thousands of options available, not to mention evolving makeup trends. Statista.com reported that in 2016, eyeliner sales in the U.S. alone generated $617 million, with eye shadows adding $324 million. This shows how much power professional artists hold to influence and guide clients’ choices in this popular category. A clear understanding of color theory, expert application skills and the ability to effectively share this knowledge with clients can make all the difference in ensuring they feel their confident best, through their own eyes!

by SHAWN TOWNE

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image optimeyes

FUNDAMENTALS Consider these essential points for every eye makeup application:

 CONCEAL – Before applying any color product to the eyes, make sure the skin around the eyes looks hydrated, fresh and clean. Even the most beautiful eye makeup is diminished if dark circles or discoloration are not properly concealed.  PRIME – Always use an eye primer under eye makeup to avoid creasing or blotchiness and to add longevity. Primers come in many colors so they can be used to start the base color of the look, as well as to color correct and help conceal.  KEEP THE RIGHT TOOLS – Stock a variety of high quality brushes for application and change brushes when you change colors. This gives you more control and precision, and ensures that colors come out true and vivid.

 WORK INCREMENTALLY – Apply color gradually. Never go straight to the darkest or brightest color; start subtle and graduate the intensity. This gives you more control and allows you to create the exact intensity you desire.  CONTRAST, DON’T MATCH – When applying colors to the eyes, it is rarely wise to go monochromatic or try to match the eye color. The concentrated pigment of eye shadows almost always appears more vivid than the natural eye, thus making the actual eye color look duller by comparison. The best results are typically achieved by reaching the opposite end of the color spectrum. Natural hues can also be used to optimize eye enhancement, regardless of eye color. Natural or muted colors are universal and can be applied with a variety of intensity levels, from natural beige to full smoke.

COLOR THEORY — HUE, DEPTH AND SATURATION Colors have three important dynamics we must understand — hue, depth and saturation. All three of these dynamics impact the way a makeup application turns out.  The hue is the actual shade of the color. If we use the wrong hue, we cannot properly complement the color of the eye.  The depth refers to how dark or light the color is. Even if we use the right hue, we may overpower the eye if we use too dark or too light of a color. Artists commonly choose depths of colors that are in sync with the depth of the skin.  The saturation refers to how muted or vivid the color is. Even if the hue and depth are correct, the look can come out looking harsh or garish if we use a color that is too saturated.

HUE

DEPTH

SATURATION

red

light

subtle

yellow

medium

moderate

blue

dark

intense

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image optimeyes

THE COLOR WHEEL: CONTRAST AND COMPLEMENT  Blue Eyes – Orange, at the opposite side of the color spectrum from blue, creates the most contrast and enhancement for a blue eye. Variations of orange include gold, copper, rust, peach and salmon. Brown shades with orange undertones like terra cotta, tan and nude are also great options for enhancing blue eyes.  Green Eyes – Red is on the opposite side of the color spectrum from green, but red eye makeup can often make the eyes look bloodshot or unhealthy. Purple or red-purple are usually the best choices for translating this to eye makeup, as purple is one step over from red on the color wheel and provides a nice contrast. Variations of purple include violet, fuchsia, magenta, mauve and lilac. Brown-purples like burgundy or wine also allow for excellent green eye enhancement.

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 Brown Eyes – Blue is on the opposite side of the color spectrum from brown (orange is the base tone of brown), but just as red may be too intense for a green eye, blue eye makeup often looks garish or unnatural. Gray tones work as a more natural stand-in, creating a cool contrast against the warmth of the brown eye. Variations on this color include gray, silver, platinum, pale blues and gray-blues. If a good combination of these cool tones is used, the eye color can literally look more orange in comparison. It’s a beautiful, intense look.

 Hazel Eyes (brown and green) – Because there are two components of color in this eye color, using two color tones (in this case, gray and purple) delivers maximum enhancement. Look carefully at the eye to decide which color is more prominent and apply accordingly. For example, on an eye that is primarily green with gold or brown flecks or undertones, apply a cool taupe gray shadow to the outer corner or crease and then apply a lilac or magenta shadow onto the lid directly above the iris.  Aqua or Teal Eyes (blue and green) – Both gold and purple tones offer beautiful enhancement for this eye color and can bring out the pure aqua hues in the iris. Start with a burgundy or purple brown in the outer corner and then apply a luminous gold or orange to the lower lash line and lid.

image optimeyes

THE IMPORTANCE OF HIGHLIGHT COLORS When speaking of eye shadow colors, it’s easy to only consider the principal shadow color. But in reality, the highlight color used can make or break the final look. When choosing the highlight color, consider the tone and depth of the skin. If the highlighter used is too bright, the result is heavy or fake looking. A highlighter that is too dark, on the other hand, won’t deliver enough intensity. The best results are achieved with highlighter colors that are one or two levels lighter than the depth of the skin, and preferably the opposite of the main shadow colors being used. For example, if we use gray shadows, a light, warm peachy highlighter complements the look. If we’re using warm brown or gold shadows, a cool white or off white highlighter complements the look. Most importantly, if your client has mature skin or wrinkled eyelids, avoid using shimmery highlighters on the inner eye. Instead of going with shimmer, go a shade lighter with the highlighter color than you normally would. Matte shadows minimize the appearance of texture. Always ensure that you have plenty of highlighter colors in your drawer. If clients only purchase the main shadow colors from you, they won’t get the full effect at home.

THE FINISHING TOUCH When completing an eye makeup application, the following three factors have a distinct impact on the final look:

STRONG BROWS, now one of the hottest trends on the market, can either finish a look perfectly or push it over the edge. When choosing the color for brow makeup, look at the brow hair color and avoid going too dark. Add warm red or copper tones for clients with warm tones in their hair. Use a light, gold tone to enhance blonde brows. Just as it is essential to conceal around the eye before applying shadows, always perfect the skin around the brows so that they pop against the clean backdrop of flawless skin. EYELINER can either be similar to the color of the shadows or more vivid, because the color is closer to the actual eye and does not cover as much space as the eye shadow. A pop of intense colored liner looks beautiful against well-blended shadows. For example, gray shadows can be beautifully finished with blue liner, lilac shadows with fuchsia liner, and brown shadows with deep red liner. The best results are achieved when the heaviest liner is applied to the top lash line and the under eye is designed with a lighter hand.

blue eyes, and navy mascara looks beautiful on brown eyes. For green eyes, red mascara looks incredible. If you do not have red mascara, squeeze a squeezable mascara out onto a blending surface and mix in a hint of red blush or lip stain to create your own dark red or burgundy. I encourage you to incorporate these tips for perfect eye makeup into your professional education sessions, client classes, applications and individual client conversations. Learning to “optimeyes” for eye color is an easy, eye-opening way to refresh your clients’ look and boost their confidence in the process! 

Shawn Towne is a Global Educator for jane iredale with more than 28 years of makeup artistry experience. His portfolio includes editorial work in fashion and beauty publications around the world and runway artistry for New York Fashion Week shows. In his career with jane iredale, Towne works to educate and inspire profession-

MASCARA allows the lashes to participate in the color theme and doesn’t have to be limited to the traditional black or brown. For example, warm brown mascara can smartly enhance

als across the globe while collaborating on product launches and creative projects for the brand. His commentary has been featured in Allure, Marie Claire and many spa and makeup trade magazines.

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effortless perfection

Sunset Skin Foundation from Veil Cosmetics is an airy, whipped foundation that reveals flawless skin! Specially engineered to give an effortless blend and soft focus finish to help skin appear smoother and reduce the appearance of pores and fine lines, this hydrated product benefits from water lily and cinnamon bark, giving skin a natural looking glow!

veilcosmetics.com

lash loss no more

NovaLash’s Lash+Doctor is an advanced eyelash and eyebrow serum containing a powerful revitalizing complex that gets right to the root of lash loss caused by follicle aging. This treatment is enriched with peptides, natural plant extracts and multi-vitamins, helping condition and protect delicate lashes and brows.

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

beautifully plumped

Osmosis Mineral Cosmetics Lip Gloss Collection allows you to go from natural to HIGH shine with BEAUTIFUL transparent and rich colors. Each gloss features a creamy, rich texture to make lips appear FULLER and more plumped while promoting firmness and elasticity. Jojoba and sunflower oils hydrate and nourish, encouraging the healing process of dry, chapped lips.

877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com

impeccable application

Introducing Qosmedix’s PRO Brush Collection’s curved head blending brush with a protective case. This ultra-soft synthetic nylon brush is PERFECT for applying and blending liquid and powder based makeup. The unique shape of the handle helps control application while the curved design of the brush head can be used for blending, contouring and defining cheekbones.

631.242.3270 qosmedix.com

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Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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