LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals July 2019
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FROM THE
EDITOR
Bio-Therapeutic
TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED
SKIN CARE
Leadership is an important aspect of a business. A positive outlook and supportive environment are essential for employees to flourish and feel confident in creating new ideas to move the business constantly in a forward direction. But even if you aren’t in charge of other employees, our Leadership Guide is still for you. Everyone is a leader in his or her life. Whether you lead your family, your friends, or yourself, it’s important to be aware of the impact you have on other people and how to use positivity to help everyone grow.
This month, we discuss why leadership matters, and how to use it positively to influence those around you. It’s been proven time and time again that happy employees are more productive and bring more money to a business. And, this happiness is contagious, leaving clients with a better overall experience.
So, be extra conscious this month of how you talk to your employees, coworkers, friends and family. Remember that your words lead to actions and actions have consequences, both good and bad. Ultimately, positive leadership is always more effective!
All the best,
bio-therapeutic.com
Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com 4
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Celebrating 45 Years of Skin Care Excellence
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July volume 34 number 7
contents 4
Sensitive Skin 21 Skin News
business
From the Editor Advertiser Index
44
Leadership Matters
48
Positive Leadership
54
Skin Barrier Photo Feature
43 Leadership Guide
24
Spa of the Month
60
Be The Light
28
Spa Treatments for Men
66
Organic & Wellness News
33
Spa News
o&w
spa
10 Eczema, Rosacea and Sensitive Skin
24 Spa Treatments for Men
60 Be The Light
34
Behind The Spa Door with Dr.
68
The Brow is the New Facelift
Elizabeth Trattner
72
Image News
36
A Matter of Time
41
Business News
42
#esty2esty
36 A Matter of Time
image
skin
16 Skin Cancer IQ
guide
10 Eczema, Rosacea and
74
68 The Brow is the New Facelift
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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Light Therapy
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief exeCutive OffiCer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing editOr Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com direCtOr Of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com art direCtOr Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com direCtOr Of sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com shOw direCtOr danni bOuCher danni@lneonline.com exhibitOr OPeratiOns Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com web develOPer JOse daniel de la rOsa daniel@LNEonline.com COnferenCe COOrdinatOr Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com internatiOnal editOr Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Allison Kirsten Ashely Sachs Cristina Beecham Dale Willerton
Dr. Elizabeth Trattner Dr. Steven Wang Umbreen Sheikh
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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Five serums. Five decades. For over five decades we’ve been harnessing the power of aromatherapy and botanical extracts to create natural skincare products that enhance skin and wellbeing. Founded by pioneering aromatherapist Eve Taylor OBE, our products are enriched with the finest hand-blended essential oils that are harvested and distilled within hours to create the freshest most potent blends. Some of our recipes are so good they haven’t changed in over fifty years, including our bestselling range of Aromatic Serums which are 100% pure and natural.
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ECZEMA,
ROSACEA AND
SENSITIVE
SKIN
A Five-Step Guide to Treating High Risk Clients by Dr. Steven Wang The wide range of treatment options delivered by experienced practioners works exceedingly well in transforming the appearance and enhancing the emotional well-being of the patients. However, some of these treatments can potentially cause significant side effects, especially when used aggressively on patients with skin disorders such as eczema, rosacea, and sensitive skin. For example, a long-time patient of mine asked me if she should try dermaplaning to remove vellus hair on her cheeks. This patient is a 49-year-old Caucasian woman with blonde hair and fair skin. She has a history of basal cell skin cancer on her left forehead, and is currently dealing with mild symptoms of rosacea. She also had eczema as a child and has sensitive skin.
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skin Eczema, Rosacea and Sensitive Skin
I asked a few questions and shared my opinions and thoughts about the risks and benefits of the procedure. I marveled at the amazing innovations in the field of anti-aging. Currently, a patient has the options of choosing simple treatments (e.g. facial, exfoliation, dermabrasion and dermaplaning) to light-based therapies such as laser, IPL and LED treatment. If still not satisfied, she can try microneedling, Botox and filler injections before considering surgery. However, none of the above may be suitable if the patient has eczema, rosacea, or sensitive skin. In this short review, we will briefly introduce these three skin conditions to raise awareness and highlight the central pathologic mechanism of these issues. Lastly, we will provide a five step guide for practitioners to deliver the best care to this group of patients.
Eczema, Rosacea, and Sensitive Skin Eczema is a common skin condition that affects 30 million Americans. People with eczema have an itchy, red rash commonly seen on the face, behind 12
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the knees, and on the flexor surface of the elbows. However, the rash can also be found on the trunk, hands, neck and scalp. The disease can be very itchy, which prompts uncontrollable scratching, inevitably leading to worsening of the disease. The good news is that the disease tends to improve as kids grow into adults. However, these adults may have sensitive skin that tends to itch, burn or sting easily. Rosacea is another common skin disorder affecting seven million Americans. People with rosacea often have fair skin, and the disease usually first appears when people reach their 40’s. Initially, they present with a reddish complexion of the face. Over time, they can develop small broken blood vessels on their cheeks and nose. As the disease progresses, one can develop papules, and even pustules on the face. Aggravating factors include intense sun exposure, alcohol consumption, emotional stress, drinking hot beverages and eating spicy food. Aside from these two common skin disorders, a large portion of Americans have sensitive skin. In one study, 40 percent of women reported having sensitive skin, as manifested by sting-
ing, burning, and/or an itching sensation. Some of those individuals had asthma and eczema in childhood. The challenge with this group of patients is there may not be any specific telltale signs to make a diagnosis.
Stratum Corneum – The Key to Barrier Function The common thread that links these three conditions is the concept of skin barrier. Anatomically, the skin barrier refers to the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of epidermis. This is a thin layer of dead skin that is only 10-40 ¾m in thickness. The thickness of the stratum cornea varies, depending on the anatomic location. For example, the stratum corneum on the eyelid is much thinner compared to the palms, back and bottom of the feet. The stratum corneum is formed from layers of living cells in the basal layer of the epidermis. As the epidermal cells mature and migrate upward to the outer surface of the skin, these skin cells shed their nucleus and other cellular organelles, to form corneocytes. Wrapped around the corneocytes are fatty acids and phospholipids that
skin Eczema, Rosacea and Sensitive Skin
bind the corneocytes together, forming the barrier in a “brick and mortar” arrangement. An intact skin barrier serves multiple functions, such as regulating transepidermal water loss and blocking allergens, irritations, and bacteria from entering the living portion of the epidermis and dermis. Various factors can disrupt the physical integrity of the stratum corneum and weaken the skin barrier. Those factors include cold temperature, dry ambient air, intense UV exposure from the sun, chemical ingredients (e.g., acid peels) or mechanical abrasions such as scratching, and treatments such as dermabrasion, laser resurfacing, and microneedling and dermaplaning. Weakening of the skin barriers worsens eczema, rosacea and skin sensitivity. For example, a patient with eczema and a poor skin barrier will allow increased penetration of irritants into the living portion of the epidermis. The ensuing release of inflammatory cytokines can trigger an itch-scratch cycle, creating a
vicious cycle that makes eczema worse. Disruption of the skin barrier in patients with rosacea can lead to inflammation and vasodilation. Clinically, patients will present with an increase in redness of complexion and increase in number and size of blood vessels on the face. Routine facial treatments, such as cleaning with an astringent cleanser and/or toner or excessive exfoliation can weaken the skin barrier. Procedures such as dermaplaning, microneedling and dermabrasion definitely break the barrier. Caution must be exercised when performing procedures in this group of patients. Otherwise, there is an increased risk of developing potential side effects ranging from rash, acne breakouts, flare ups of diseases, and worse yet, bacterial and viral infections. On a less severe note, your clients may look and feel better when they leave your office, but will have no improvement. The next time you see them, they may complain that your treatment did not work.
Five Steps To Ensure Optimal Care • First, obtain a good medical history. This is a good practice for any healthcare provider. Aside from understanding the patient’s wishes, needs and concerns, inquiry about personal and family medical history will prompt you and your team to identify high risk patients. It is a good idea to simply ask if your clients have eczema, rosacea, and sensitive skin. Medication history is also helpful. For example, if a client is on anticoagulants such as Coumadin, Pradaxa, Xarelto, Eliquis, or aspirin, they have a higher risk of developing bleeding or bruising. • Second, perform a thorough skin exam. The exam should be performed in a setting with good ambient lighting. Consider using a magnifier or loop if needed. In addition to visual inspection, palpate and feel the skin. Most of the time, your exam will be focused on the face, neck and chest area. If you
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skin Eczema, Rosacea and Sensitive Skin
suspect your client has eczema, look for rashes at the wrist, inner elbow and back of the knees to confirm your suspicion. A good skin exam helps you to better appreciate the texture and overall health of your clients’ skin, thereby helping you to formulate an optimal treatment course. On a subconscious level, your client will appreciate your service because they will appreciate your thorough exam. • Third, design the appropriate treatment. In the field of medicine, the next frontier of advancement is to deliver personalized medicine based on genetic profiles. Although gene-based therapy may be decades away in the field of esthetic care, we should tailor an individual and appropriate treatment for each client. Instead of following preset protocols blindly, an experienced and knowledgeable esthetician uses the protocol and makes slight adjustments to enhance the outcome. In the case of dealing with patients with eczema, rosacea, or sensitive skin, it may be judicious to follow the principle of "less is more." Specifically, consider reducing intensity, concentration, depth of penetration, frequency and duration of the treatment to prevent potential damage to the skin barrier. • Fourth, spend the time discussing home care regimens. One of the great services you can provide is to educate your patients about an appropriate skin care routine. There is a large gap in basic skin care knowledge in the general public. Myths and misconceptions still prevail, and erroneous concepts can undo all the benefits of your treatment. For example, a patient raved about the cleanliness of her bar soap. Yet, she cannot understand why her skin is so dry and irritated. This example may be obvious to all of us, and yet, how many of us still prescribe complicated skin care regimens with astringent actives that are actually making skin worse, especially for clients with sensitive skin? 14
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• Fifth, call your patients the next day. As a routine in our surgical practice, we often call our patients the next day after major surgeries. A quick call can be very reassuring to the patients and to me, the surgeon. This practice can be incorporated into the field of esthetic care, especially for clients with sensitive skin, rosacea or eczema. The purposes of the calls include providing assurance, addressing any lingering questions, repeating care instructions, and making sure your patients are happy with the outcome. Trust me, your patients will be pleasantly surprised by the call, and this extra care will set you apart from other estheticians. More importantly, your clients’ sincere gratitude will be rewarding for you and your team.
for my patient mentioned earlier, I told her that dermaplaning in the hands of trained practitioners can definitely remove vellus hair and transiently improve her appearance. She will need to share her medical information with her esthetician before the procedure so they can adjust her treatments as necessary. If she is worried, consider treating a small area of the face as a test. Most importantly, pay attention to any side effects the days after the procedure. Now, what would you do next time a similar client seeks your service?
Dr. Steven Wang is the Director of Dermatologic
Summary
Surgery and Dermatology at Memorial Sloan-Kettering
A large portion of Americans have sensitive skin, eczema and rosacea. Your next client may have one or all three of these conditions. Recognizing the signs and symptoms and tailoring your treatment accordingly are important steps in ensuring optimal results. As
Cancer Center in Basking Ridge, New Jersey. He is actively involved in clinical research on photoprotection, antioxidants, nanotechnology, anti-aging and natural skincare formulation. In 2016, he cofounded Dr. Wang Herbal Skincare with his father, a licensed acupuncturist and herbalist in NYC.
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Skin Cancer IQ
Keeping Up with Skin Cancer Awareness by Aurora Solis
Estheticians are invaluable in the fight against skin cancer. Less than half of Americans suffering from a skin condition are likely to consult their dermatologist. Estheticians can use their time with clients to not only change someone’s life, but also to help save it. Let’s discuss some facts about melanoma and other skin cancers, and provide information to help you recognize and prevent skin cancer for your clients.
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skin Skin Cancer IQ
Melanoma Melanoma is the deadliest form of skin cancer. Unfortunately, by the time it is discovered, melanoma has already spread to affect the lymph nodes in one out of eight cases. In darker skins, the death rate from melanoma is 2.5 times greater than it is in lighter skins. Lesions are most commonly found on the legs for women. In fact, most cases of melanoma are discovered when clients or patients come in for other unrelated skin conditions and treatments and are discovered after a full body examination. Just as with breast cancer, the only cure for melanoma is early surgical removal, when the cancer cells are in a layer less than 1 mm thick. When the layer of cancer cells is thick, the eightyear survival rate is much less: 86 percent for 2 mm thick down to 20 percent for 4 mm thick. Fortunately, melanoma is highly curable when detected early. Advise your clients to take a little extra time examining their skin for any new growths, spots or tumors (especially if over age
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25) when performing a monthly selfexam. The most accurate way to ensure your clients recognize a melanoma is to encourage them to be aware of lesions that look or feel different than any others on their body. Any lesions that are growing wider at the base or are changing within a birthmark are other major indicators of melanoma. Another signal for melanoma is a growth that has any soreness, itchiness or redness lasting for more than two weeks. If any specific growth worries you, err on the side of caution and have the lesion removed by a dermatologist. The only accurate diagnosis that determines melanoma survival is what is seen under the microscope.
Non-Melanoma Cancer In the female population, squamous and basal cell cancers afflict about 800,000 people per year, with more than 1,000 cases resulting in death. Squamous cell cancer usually appears as a crusted, red growth that is tender, but it may also be brown or look
like a patch of dermatitis. Basal cell cancer may also appear like dermatitis, but usually it is pearly or reddish with a jelly-like material. Basal cell lesions can sometimes look like a growing whitish scar. Everyone is at risk for skin cancer, however some people are at a much higher risk than others. Factors that more than double a person’s chance of getting skin cancer—namely melanoma—include having very fair skin that always or nearly always sunburns; physical characteristics such as red hair and blue eyes; experiencing two or more blistering sunburns by age 18; use of indoor tanning beds (even once); a sibling with a history of melanoma; living in high desert agriculture areas or having an active outdoor lifestyle. Although women account for more than half of the American population, they experience a lower incidence of skin cancer than men. The distribution of lesions and age of onset differs between men and women due to apparel, hormonal activity and use of tanning systems.
skin Skin Cancer IQ
The easiest treatment involves taking precautionary steps to prevent cancer. Prevention of skin cancer has three components:
1. Protection against UV radiation. 2. Maximizing skin health by optimizing barrier function. 3. Maintaining a healthy, anti-inflammatory diet. These are daily habits that should come as naturally to you and your clients as brushing the teeth.
UV Protection Recommend sunscreens that also provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant protection. For maximum protection, apply sunscreen twice, approximately 30 minutes apart, with the second application timed more than 30 minutes before UV exposure. Applying sunscreen 30 minutes prior to going outside gives the ingredients time to bind to the skin barrier (the outer exposed areas of the stratum corneum). Discourage your clients from using tanning beds, even during the gray, gloomy days of winter. Use of indoor tanning beds is the major factor behind the increasing incidence of skin cancer among the female population. Tanning in the skin is actually the manifestation of skin cell injury, which is why there is no such thing as a “safe� tan. Tanning beds produce four times the amount of UVA light as natural sunlight and two times the UVB light in the same time of exposure, but do not stimulate the thickening of the protective skin barrier as sunlight does. UVA activates melanoma and wrinkles while suppressing normal immune protection. It occurs year round, from sun up to sun down, and penetrates through windows and cloud cover. UVB produces most sunburns, and is a contributing factor to squamous and basal cell cancer. Many people fear that regular sunscreen use will reduce sunlight-activat-
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ed vitamin D levels in the body. On one hand, this can be a valid concern, since low vitamin D levels increase the risk of internal cancers and infection. On the other hand, most individuals apply only between one fourth to one third the amount of sunscreen recommended by the FDA.
Healthy Skin Comes First The skin must be healthy, with optimum skin barrier function and the inhibition of damaging chronic inflammation in order to achieve desired beauty and protection. The core of the skin barrier resides in specific oils deposited in precise ratios between surface skin cells. These specific oils are a mixture of ceramides, including sphingosine, cholesterol and linoleic acid, along with some palmitic and stearic acids. Ceramide alone is very good for moisturizing and mildly reducing inflammation, but it provides only mild (7-11 percent) skin barrier enhancement. When
all three barrier oils are contained in a barrier product formula, barrier repair is improved by 68 percent, compared to 43 percent for 100 percent petrolatum. Glycerin, mineral oil, beeswax and lanolin all provide some barrier repair effect as well. The best products for your clientele include those that are proven to repair and optimize the barrier while preventing and reversing the effects of chronic inflammation.
Anti-Inflammatory Diet Since the skin is the largest organ of the body, it is impacted by overall health. A diet that promotes healthy skin should be dominated by anti-inflammatory items. Dietary supplements that reduce sensitivity to UV radiation with antioxidant activity include teas (green, black and white), pomegranate, grape seed and chocolate (if more than 55 percent cacao). Curcumin in curry has also been documented to prevent skin cancers as well as reduce inflammation.
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PhotoSync Sculpt photo-rythym adjusting treatment moisturizer is a delicate, silky-smooth creme that combines Orchid Stem Cells, Matrixyl® Synthe’6®, Orchid Stem Cells, and a blue light protecting powerhouse to quickly transform tired, stressed, sleep-deprived, jet-lagged and light-confused skin.
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Serum Force 9 by Karin Herzog
This serum composed with fruit extracts allows exfoliation of dead cells and the reduction of wrinkles, fine lines and age spots. It tightens the pores, hydrates the horny layer of the epidermis, desensitizes and tones. It helps normalize the sebaceous glands.
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Volcanic Mineral Scrub
From Georgette Klinger, this natural, non-abrasive scrub, laden with antioxidant, Vitamin E-rich Argan Oil and anti-inflammatory Aloe Vera Gel keeps the complexion smooth, freshly hydrated, and never irritated.
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# LBcongress19 22
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The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Business Conference Ė Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference Ė Social Media Conference Product Focused Training Ė Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities
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thE
PENiNsuLa sPa
BEVERLY HILLS, CA
Better Than Ever Before
SPA OF THE MONTH
by Cristina Beecham
Luxurious indulgence and blissful relaxation culminate in the newly renovated Peninsula Spa Beverly Hills. This hidden gem offers seven treatment rooms plus a blow out bar, nail suite, serenity lounge and dry saunas featuring a dramatic and beautiful Himalayan salt crystal wall. The Spa offers dozens of advanced results-based facial and body treatments, as well as custom massages, packages, and hair and nail services. With industry leading skin care lines such as Biologique Recherche and Medical Beauty Research, The Peninsula Spa Beverly Hills is a skin care sanctuary for every guest walking through its doors.
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spa Spa Of The Month
New and Improved The Peninsula Beverly Hills has recently finished a complete renovation of its 4,600 square foot award-winning spa, along with unveiling new treatments that are exclusive to the Beverly Hills location. Conceptualized by Beverly Hillsbased interior design firm Forchielli Glynn, the spa’s new stand-out features include pink Himalayan salt dry saunas, hair and makeup studio, dedicated outdoor pool spa cabana and upgraded serenity lounge. In addition, The Peninsula Spa Beverly Hills now offers exclusive product lines, including Subtle Energies and MBR Medical Beauty Research.
Signature Treatment The Peninsula Spa Beverly Hills’ signature treatment is the Organic Oxygen Facial (60 or 90 minutes, $300 or $410). This facial treatment uses oxygen mist in its most pure and concentrated form to leave skin firm, clear, and radiant while restoring essential hydration. Using high potency organic bio-swiss serums, the esthetician custom blends a formula to erase all signs of redness, sensitivity, premature aging, and dullness. This treatment is also great for stimulating collagen and elastin. It is ideal for sensitive skin.
Marketing The Peninsula Spa Beverly Hills attracts a large local following. The spa’s director, Allison Kirsten, says, “Being in Beverly Hills, we have a strong local following so we rely mainly on referral business.” Word of mouth and client referrals are still one of the number one marketing strategies for spas and skin care businesses, even in today’s age of social media.
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The spa also takes advantage of the Peninsula Hotel’s various offerings, such as restaurants, and offers discounted services for patrons of these outlets. Kirsten says, “We have a 20 percent off Happy Hour special Monday through Friday from 2pm-10pm. We also have a special called “Under the Stars” where locals have pool access from 6pm-10pm Monday through Friday if they book a spa treatment.” Although the spa has a large and loyal following of local clients, Kirsten says they are starting to amp up their social media marketing strategies: “We are starting to do more social media, especially on Instagram with stories. We also are starting to offer more spa promotions online for the upcoming summer season.”
Training Maintaining the luxury standard at The Peninsula Spa Beverly Hills requires each team member to be motivated. Spa Director Allison Kirsten explains how she keeps her team performing at such a high standard: “We have monthly spa meetings with the entire team to review communications, goals, new protocols/treatments. We very much have an open-door policy with the team, so we try and touch base with employees every day during their shifts.” Daily check-ins and an open door policy promote a sense of security and transparency in the workplace. Every six months, Kirsten conducts a performance review with each individual staff member. She also holds
spa Spa Of The Month
Amenities: seven treatment rooms; blow out bar; nail suite; serenity lounge; dry saunas; Himalayan salt crystal wall Retail Lines: Biologique Recherche; MBR; Luzern; Kos; Subtle Energies; Deborah Lippman Guest Ratio: 60 percent female, 40 percent male; 70 percent local, 30 percent non local
Spa Director Spotlight
monthly competitions to encourage them to book certain treatments or sell certain retail products. Friendly competition is a great motivator!
Retail The Spa at The Peninsula Spa Beverly Hills curates a selection of luxury skin care lines for clients looking to maintain and accelerate the results of their in-spa treatments. When selecting lines to carry in the spa, Kirsten says, “We focus on creating consistencies with our other Peninsula Spas throughout the world when selecting our retail lines. We currently carry Medical Beauty Research, Luzern, Kos, Subtle Energies, Biologique Recherche, and Deborah Lippmann.”
Spa Director Kirsten believes that the results speak for themselves. When asked how she incentivizes service providers to sell products, she says “Our estheticians are encouraged to pull a couple of products after each facial to educate clients on the benefits of skin care. We don’t discount or incentivize clients to purchase, as we believe that the exclusivity and potency of our product lines speak for themselves. The guests see the results and purchase on their own.”
Born and raised in Cape Town, South Africa, Allison Kirsten was always active as a child and participated in every sport in both grade and high school. Her love for fitness continued throughout her adult years and after working in the hotel industry after college, Allison worked for the world's largest luxury sports and fitness company. Eventually, she climbed her way up the ladder to General Manager and ran clubs in New York and San Francisco. In her early 30’s, Kirsten transitioned in to high-end hotels, working for Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton. Kirsten believes she has “the best of both worlds, working in beauty and wellness while combining my love for hospitality.”
Rundown The Peninsula Spa Beverly Hills 9882 South Santa Monica Boulevard Beverly Hills, CA 90212
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also
peninsula.com
a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source
Spa Director: Allison Kirsten
for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect
Launch: August 1991
with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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sPa trEatmENts for mEN Increase Revenue This Summer by Aurora Solis
Remember when spa services were targeted mostly towards women? Spas used to be mainly a female experience from all points of view. Fast-forward to now and spas have become more and more gender neutral. The times of viewing the spa industry as attracting primarily female clients are over. Men have slowly but surely joined the spa movement and they are changing the way spas work and develop in today’s day and age. Today, spas of all types are designed with the male clientele in mind. Fresh and neutral scents are used for several treatments on the menu; longer and larger size bathrobes are set up inside lockers; longer massage tables are now considered for treatments rooms, masculine magazines and newspapers are displayed in relaxation areas; and you may even see a flat screen TV in the men’s locker room.
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spa Spa Treatments for Men
MAKING WELLNESS A PRIORITY We can recognize that spa treatments have always benefited the male population; but especially in these past couple years with the increased stress of everyday day life, men are finding their way to the spa in record numbers. Men are realizing that spas are not simply a ‘pampering’ refuge or a girly thing. They realize that looking and feeling good it is as important as dressing well for their careers. In this situation, going to a spa is about finding a way to keep up with the race. But, it isn’t only career men in the majority who are visiting spas these days; athletes and retired males are also joining spa facilities. In general, men have realized that spa treatments not only serve as a stress management tool, but also have positive benefits on their skin and sporting aches. Men also enjoy the younger look and the feeling after a facial; but most importantly, they enjoy performing better during that golf game with friends or co-workers.
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TARGETED TREATMENTS We can see more therapeutic services that are increasingly being offered in spa menus and are designed to alleviate stress, improve muscle aches, increase circulation as well as develop better flexibility in support of sports training. While many men are enjoying the benefits of spas alone or with their loved ones, some men still feel intimidated about it. Are you asking your female clients why they are not giving their husband or special someone a little push and spoiling them with a treatment or spa relaxation break at your spa?
tion to his signs and to know if this would be his first visit to a spa. Make him feel comfortable by asking short questions and help him decide which services he needs. 2
We all need to reach our monthly goal, but it’s better to have him back in two weeks than never again. If it is the first visit and all he wants is just a quick fix, do not try to sell him the four hour pampering package. He will walk away. Offer short and effective services. 3
TIPS TO PREP YOUR SPA FOR MALE CLIENTS 1
train your staff accordingly
You want men to feel conformable from the moment they call or walk through the door. It is important to pay atten-
his first visit
the menu
Make it short, simple and clear. Men will lose their attention when they see two pages of offerings with intricate names and words. Call it as it is. Describe the benefits targeted towards healing, wellness or stress management.
spa Spa Treatments for Men
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service options
Depending on the type of spa, generally 30 and 60 minutes spa services are the most popular for gentlemen. Few men make it through a four-hour spa package. However, you can create just one to have it as an option for those in need. 5
Locker room Experience
Bring your guy friend to your spa to have a walk through and role play. Pay attention at what, where and how he interacts with each amenity. Set up the space in a way that is convenient for them: locations of razors, hair gel or mouse, shaving cream, combs, etc. 6
robes and sandals
As a sign of respect and sensitivity, try to always have pre-assigned lockers with corresponding sizes. Train your staff to estimate proper size for spa guests as they are being greeted before providing a locker key. This way, the guest doesn’t need to go through the embarrassment of coming out of the locker room area barefooted and half covered by a robe that's too small. 7
massages
Communicate to therapists about special needs or if the male guest is visiting for the first time.
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facials
Use products that are neutral or fresh in fragrance. Adding a firm neck massage usually puts men at ease. Use very gentle extraction techniques. Estheticians should also be aware if a male guest is a first timer. Be cautious with homecare recommendations, and do not overwhelm your male clients. 9
relaxation
Ensure that you have male-oriented reading material visibly displayed: newspapers, car/boats/business magazines or even a few short books of interest. 8
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clear communication
Assist with clear and to-the-point billing explanations. Anticipate needs so he doesn’t need to think too much (i.e. validate valet parking and making his next appointment). Have the recommended products out and try not to overwhelm him with more than two products. Men are finally realizing that manicures and pedicures go beyond just pampering and actually provide relief from painful hangnails, rough calluses
and irritated dry skin, as well as relief from the constant complaints from their loved ones. If this isn’t reason enough for your man to take the dive, here is a short list of simple reasons to convince them: • Besides the obvious benefits of looking good, manicures and pedicures, massages and facials for gentlemen come with a relaxing component of spending some me-time that will make him feel really good, de-stressed and energized. • Regular manicures and pedicures help to keep hands and feet looking clean and presentable, which is much more attractive than the rough and rugged look. Similar results are also obtained from having regular facials. • Taking an hour or so off to help forget about the stresses of work or family related situations is not only relaxing, but it’s also healthy!
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Behind The Spa Door with
Dr. Elizabeth Trattner
Ancient Wisdom for Modern Women™ How did you start your career in cosmetic acupuncture? I was always interested in surgery and the body. When I got out of school, I worked for a plastic surgeon, which at the time was a little off the beaten path. I learned a lot about skin and healing and was able to cut healing times in half using different modalities and botanicals. I trained with an esthetician and cosmetic acupuncturist when this field was still in its infancy.
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years ago. I still use them in my practice today and they are what you see in the gemstone acupuncture facial. How do you choose which stones to use on your clients? Part of the decision is based on Chinese medicine diagnosis and what I learn from the client during the consultation. Are they sad? Are they breaking out? What emotions am I hearing? It’s important to have a working knowledge of the stones and how to apply them. Gemstones have always been a part of the Chinese medicine pharmacy and have been used for centuries.
How has the world of cosmetic acupuncture changed since you started your practice? Acupuncture is really mainstream now. You can get acupuncture on cruise ships and at resorts. You can get it all over the world, it’s amazing! People are starting to demand more natural treatments and I think we’re going in a positive direction. What modalities can estheticians incorporate to achieve similar results? Estys can do some great things. Gua sha is amazing. Find a good acupuncturist to teach you how to find the pressure points. Facial cupping is another great tool to move lymph. These are great ways to add layers of depth and breadth to an esthetics practice. When did you start to incorporate stones into your facials? I’ve always felt a connection to stones. I bought a set of gemstones over 20
What benefits does acupuncture have for the skin? Acupuncture promotes collagen and elastin, reduces the look of fine lines, promotes draining and circulation. It balances the body and face. But, it’s more than just a beauty treatment. It’s a multilayered treatment that can help with migraines, TMJ, etc. What is the best way to promote holistic services? Understand your market. For example, in Miami where I am, it’s a multicultural market. It’s completely different than marketing to New York or the Midwest. Understand the clients you are catering to and understand the role color plays in marketing. People in New York like black and white, but that’s not going to fly here. Create posts that speak to your audience in a way they can understand. How do you make your Instagram feed stand out? Instagram is story telling. Learn how to take good quality photos so your feed is visually informative and cohesive.
How do you encourage clients to come see you regularly? The results from acupuncture build on themselves. At the beginning of a series it is best to have treatments at least once a week to ten days. You need to educate people and find out what’s going on in their life. The better you can explain what’s going on in their body, the more effective your treatment will be and the results will speak for themselves. Are there any contraindications for cosmetic acupuncture? Women who are pregnant should get cleared by their doctor. Our goal is always to support mom and baby. Other contraindications include epilepsy, allergies to metal (often overlooked), and clients who bruise easily, especially with cupping.
what advice do you have for estheticians interested in learning acupuncture? I have a lot of friends who were estys first, and later became acupuncturists. There are now programs that exist where cosmetic acupuncture is built into the curriculum. Do your due diligence and find out which school offers the strongest training. Also, go have a session with a good cosmetic acupuncturist. They can guide you and help you figure out if you’re ready to make the commitment for four more years of schooling.
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a mattEr of timE Selecting the best spa lease length by Dale Willerton
The term, or length, of your salon/spa commercial lease is an important part of your business plan and ensuing lease negotiations. However, most salon/spa tenants do not take enough time to consider that one day they will eventually want to sell the business. Alternatively, they may want to expand/downsize, relocate or close and so they do not give the term of the lease the attention and consideration it truly deserves. The Lease Coach often answers lease-related questions from clients, and this issue of choosing the best lease term is regularly addressed.
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business A Matter of Time
Take Advantage The industry standard lease term for a salon/spa tenant can be five, seven or 10 years (but often not shorter). We all know how elaborate salon/spas are expensive to set up and, therefore, a 10-year amortization period may be required on the initial term to justify that initial capital investment cost. Another point of consideration is that many salon/spa owners can gain certain tax advantages by entering into consecutive shorter lease terms (for example, an initial term of four years followed by two renewals – of one and five years – and pre-exercised for a continual 10year term). Your accountant can best explain this for you, but this effectively serves the same purpose for the salon/ spa tenant and the landlord, while allowing you to depreciate capital costs more quickly. Renewal Options Lease renewal options represent part of the overall term of the lease agreement and therefore should be negotiated at this time as well. The renewal option term is defined as the period of time which follows the initial lease term. 38
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This longer term protects the tenant so that the landlord cannot either take the space back or offer it to another tenant. Renewal options can benefit the salon/spa tenant and, therefore, one to two five-year renewal option periods are common place if the landlord will agree to this. In the real world, 10-year salon/spa leases are attractive to both the landlords and the brokers who represent them. The landlord is assured of a longterm tenant while the broker, who works for the landlord, earns a commission for the term of the lease agreement. The longer the term you sign for, the more commission a broker is likely to earn. Overall, this should give the tenant increased negotiating power since the landlord is gaining the security of a 10-year term and the landlord’s broker is earning up to twice the commission he/she would normally have expected from signing a five-year tenant. Suppose you come to the end of your initial lease term and you have not renewed your lease. You will enter into what is called the overholding/holding over period. In itself, the
overholding period is not a problem; however, many lease agreements contain a clause that states the salon/spa tenant’s rent will substantially increase during the overholding period. I have reviewed leases with built-in increases of up to 300 per cent for the overholding period. A 50 to 100 per cent increase is the industry standard. Why does the landlord charge so much? The landlord wants certainty. This is the landlord’s way of preventing you from sitting back, stalling or remaining uncommitted about signing a renewal or going month-to-month. Time to Sell If you wish to sell your salon/spa business before your lease ends – for instance, during year four of a five-year term – the renewal option and terms will be critical to the purchaser. It is absolutely essential that the buyer be approved by the landlord and the renewal option term is transferrable to him/her (and not personal to you). There have been many lawsuits in the United States where the business buyer assumed that, in addition to becoming the new owner,
business A Matter of Time
he/she would also inherit the five-year lease renewal option clause. This, in fact, is not the case as the lease renewal clause remains personal to the original tenant. You should also know that the lease renewal term does not need to be made in five-year increments. A salon/spa tenant can renew his/her lease agreement for any length of time the landlord will agree to. Alternatively, a right of termination could be negotiated if you need flexibility in the term. A right of termination is a special clause in the lease agreement which gives the tenant the right to end the lease. This is a one-time event. If things are not going well for you into a five-year lease renewal term, you can negotiate to leave earlier at 24 months. Salon/spa tenants tell us that there are three key reasons why they turn to a Lease Consultant for their new lease and lease renewal negotiations:
a) To get peace-of-mind. Bringing in a professional who has done this hundreds of times so tenants don’t make mistakes. b) To save time. With having an outside expert negotiate on their behalf, busy salon/spa tenants can concentrate on other business matters.
c) To gain financial benefits. These benefits can include reducing the rent being paid by the tenant and getting more valuable tenant inducements.
Dale Willerton is The Lease Coach – and has been a Professional Lease Consultant for 26 years exclusively working for tenants and taking no commission from landlords. The Lease Coach speaks at tradeshows throughout North America. Dale is author of Negotiating Commercial Leases & Renewals FOR DUMMIES. (Wiley, 2013).
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Business
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Introducing Osmosis + Beauty
As of June 1, 2019, Osmosis will formally be under a new brand name, fully transitioning into and merging under the Osmosis +Beauty umbrella. This includes new prestige, rose gold packaging, a new online identity, and a new combination of product collections: Osmosis +Skincare, Osmosis + Colour, Osmosis + Wellness, and Osmosis MD.
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New Expurtise App for Spa Professionals
ExPürtise is launching a FREE iOS point of sale application for professionals. The app is available in the Apple App Store® and allows users to manage clients, run sales reports, track inventory, process credit cards, easily book, coordinate and manage appointments!
Eve Taylor Announces Nature Campaign
Eve Taylor has joined with Trees for the Future, which is revitalising degraded land supporting impoverished families in Africa by planting new trees which regenerate the land, support the eco-system, combat climate change and provide food for local people.
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esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! his summer, the Esthetician Edit duo is venturing into the world of holistic healing. Our #estyeditor had the pleasure of receiving a Gemstone Acupuncture Facial with the renowned Dr. Elizabeth Trattner in Miami,
• Believe it or not, this was our editor’s • Dr. Trattner chose gemstones to
first ever acupuncture treatment! She says, “It definitely wasn’t painful and was very relaxing! I felt very detoxified and was sure to drink plenty of water the rest of the day.”
support our editor’s busy lifestyle at LNE & Spa! We were lucky enough to be the first clients treated with Dr. Trattner’s newest Citrine stone.
Florida, while #MarketingMika discussed all things marketing and photo editing with Dr. Trattner, a real Instagram pro! See what else we’re up to this summer @estheticianedit.
Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!
• #MarketingMika ventures into the world of CBD skin care! Have you tried this facial oil from Hempfield Botanicals?
• Don’t miss this month’s spa of the month on page 24.
Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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@estheticianedit
Leadership Guide
Effective and Positive Leadership for the Spa
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LEadErshiP mattErs Define Your Vision and Guide Your Team to Success by Aurora Solis
Strong and effective leadership skills are vital for the growth of your skin care and spa business, whether you are currently a salon and spa owner, manage a team, or aspire to have your own esthetics business one day. Developing leadership skills promotes growth, both personally and professionally.
Why Leadership Matters Leadership skills have a direct impact on the business profit of your salon or spa. Strong leadership leads to increased business margins, which means peace of mind for owners. The challenge most salon and spa owners face is that they are wearing many hats. Most owners are still treating clients themselves and the only thing their employees see daily is their backs as they’re working! Owners rarely have the time to fully devote to coaching and leading their team members. While they may believe they are leading their team by example; that is not true leadership. The consequence is that there is no real plan for success.
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Leadership Guide
formations. Investing in these types of continuing education is the most effective way to invest in yourself.
A Vision of Success
Team members in most salons and spas are merely hoping they will become successful, versus seeing what it could look like to be truly thriving. In an ideal world, the business would generate profit without any of the salon or spa owner’s revenue. Eighty-two percent of salons and spas are not profitable without revenue produced from the owner. In most cases, the business would close within three months if the owner was not able to work due to injury or other absence. Many owners also are not able to take a regular paycheck for themselves.
Cultivate Leadership Skills While some salon and spa owners may have natural confidence in their leadership skills, others may need additional support. If you feel you need some extra guidance with leadership, seek out resources that will have a direct 46
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impact on your skills. You can practice with members to create a more powerful presence, allowing you to convey confidence to your team and clients. You can become more poised by joining a local business-building group, which will allow you to network and increase referrals and contacts. Contact your local Chamber of Commerce to get a list and visit at least three to five groups before committing to one. The benefits of a networking group are that it brings together business people from different industries who want to tap into other business experts. You’ll also have the opportunity to make new friendships and meet business people outside of your industry who will provide support and inspiration to help you grow your business. Inspiring Champions offers many resources for team building and leadership, with proven techniques that have inspired real business trans-
In a perfect world, you would start team building at the ground level of your business, by creating your vision or mission statement along with your team members. Your vision should be a clear, concise statement that relays what you want your salon or spa to be and what it is striving to achieve. Your values and goals should be reflected and shared by all your team members. You should be able to consult your vision statement regularly to check if your business is going in the right direction. If you already have a vision statement, consider redoing it as a team effort. What you co-create with your team members will be supported by them, as they will then have ownership in it. This is how to get your team working for the mission instead of the paycheck! The process side of leadership comes from clearly defining your expectations of your team. When an owner has laid out a clearly defined vision and business plan, then that allows the team to fully support it because they will then know what the finish line looks like. As an owner or manager, you should establish clear goals and accountability in your business. If you expect your team to retail professional skincare products, upsell esthetic services or cross market other spa services in your business, then that should be fully explained and supported. When your team is actively working to augment their daily client appointments with additional services and retailing, then their margins will be increased and so will yours.
Team Work Makes The Dream Work Creating a strong team begins with the interview process. Communicate to your interviewees exactly what your vision is and discover if they want to share
Leadership Guide
it. Create policies and procedures that clearly convey how your business works and let your team know your expectations from day one. Hold regular staff meetings to touch base with your team on policies, procedures, expectations and accountability. Always thoroughly plan prior to your meetings and keep meetings focused in the direction that you want them to go. Some salons and spas have daily morning meetings to set their intentions for the day. As every business is unique, you will find your own rhythm and choose what works best for your team. Many owners avoid meetings because they don’t want them to turn into complaint sessions. Yet those owners don’t really understand what their team can grow to become. Regular meetings are vital to feed that growth. Meetings can become an exciting venue to share ideas, inspiration and support for the team. Teamwork makes the dream work. Remember that positive reinforcement works much better than negative to help inspire your team. Always pub-
licly praise and privately reprimand. Build your team members up to see and recognize their own value. When your team members achieve their smaller goals along the way, help them to then raise the bar with new, bigger goals. Individual criticism should always be done privately. Refer back to your business policies and procedures to ensure that your team member understands your expectations. Take personal responsibility for your team members if they are falling behind and ask them how you can make your expectations more clear for them. Ask them what you need to do to help them alter their behavior. Involving them in the process ensures they have co-created the outcome with you.
Clarity is Key Each salon and spa is a separate entity with a unique culture, yet there are many challenges that are very common to every business. Common challenges include punctuality, personal appearance, lack of participation in retailing and sales programs or failure to consis-
tently rebook appointments. Returning back to the idea of a clear vision and a set of concise policies and procedures will solve most issues in the workplace. Communicating clearly with your team through regular meetings on these issues and meeting individually with team members to re-establish your expectations will provide resolution. The best value for salon and spa owners as a resource is the use of repeatable systems. Proven systems will be a solution for every challenge in your business from the front desk to client consultations, professional product retailing, upselling treatments and rebooking appointments. Ensure that you are following professional salon or spa systems in your business and teaching them to your team members. You should be regularly practicing your systems with your staff to help them become confident and proficient. By creating goals for individual and team retail sales, client retention and referrals, you will dramatically increase your business revenue and help your entire team to prosper!
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Eliminate Negativity in The Spa by Cristina Beecham
Spas are designed to be a place of rest and relaxation for their guests. However, keeping personal and workplace drama out of the spa can be difficult, especially when going through periods of transition, such as hiring new staff, introducing new protocols, or training employees on a new product line. As a spa leader, it is your responsibility to run a business that impacts both customers and employees positively. Here are some tips to eliminate negativity in the workplace and lead by example. LNEonline.com
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Leadership Guide
Oftentimes, we mislead ourselves in believing that people cannot sense our energy. When you are stressed, tired, anxious, or frustrated, your employees can sense those negative emotions and internalize them, resulting in clients receiving sub par experiences. Here are four strategies to eliminate negativity in the workplace for maximum employee and client happiness:
your requests are fulfilled and acknowledged. You may need to self-correct and catch yourself starting your sentences with “I don’t want,” and then course-correcting by adding, “What I do want …” In no time, your speaking will resonate with more positive direction and less criticism.
Provide stability FOCUS ON THE RESULT, NOT THE PROBLEM
POSITIVE WORDS Clear communication does not have to be negative. Train yourself to limit talking about what you don’t want, and focus on explaining in detail the behavior that you do want from your employees. For example, instead of telling a service provider that you don’t want to keep reminding them to refresh the schedule every so often to catch new appointments in the system, explain that you do want them to check every so often so they can maximize their time. You are saying the same thing but with a positive connotation. Then follow up with feedback to make sure 50
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mitted to creating?” These two questions—when asked with the right energetic intention— shift the conversation onto what’s possible rather than what’s not working. Keep them motivated by keeping the vision in sight.
With any kind of change, there will be unexpected obstacles; however focusing on the problem or obstacle creates unnecessary stress. When you focus on what’s not working instead of what you want to create, you contribute to the negativity. As the leader, your job is to keep everyone focused on your mission and vision. This does not mean that you ignore problems. It simply means that you don’t put the majority of your energy into them. When employees complain or become negative, listen compassionately first, and then ask them, “What do you want?” Or, “What are we com-
As humans, we crave stability. It’s in our nature to function best under a routine with some amount of predictability. As a leader, it’s your responsibility to work to provide a sense of certainty and stability, especially if you are making significant changes such as adding or firing employees, brining in a new product line, or switching up the schedule or menu of services. There are several effective and concrete ways to create stability and routine in the workplace. Holding weekly staff meetings is a good way to assure employees they have a time and place to address their concerns every week, so things don’t come up in the middle of the workday when clients are around. Sticking to written policies such as uni-
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Leadership Guide
form, scheduling and sick days will ensure employees know what to expect when they ask for a schedule change or a day off. This also maintains fairness and eliminates any perceived bias towards employees with a higher status or tenure. The policies are there to help you maintain boundaries and protect yourself legally. Be sure to keep your word and don’t make promises that are unfair or that you can’t keep. This creates a sense of doubt and mistrust amongst employees, and will surely result in gossip and unnecessary workplace drama. As a spa manager, you must become acutely aware of the impact of negativity. After all, your clients come to you for rejuvenation, relaxation and increased well-being. A negative internal climate will ruin your reputation. Negativity spreads like a virus, whether it’s complaining or gossiping about a coworker.
Empowerment Teach empowerment and personal responsibility. Create a protocol for addressing employee complaints. Employees should set an appointment, and explain how their complaint is attached to customer service, teamwork or the bottom line. In addition, the employee should come prepared to offer creative ideas and potential solutions rather than asking you to play referee. In other words, workplace complaints need to have a business case and an idea for improvement. When employees are dealing with personal issues, teach them to own the emotion rather than engage in storytelling. It is normal to express feelings of anger, for example. However, going into detail about what one employee said to another creates drama and is a negative form of expressing feelings. Teaching your employees how to be proactive, ask for what they want and
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manage their own emotions are key parts of growing a mature and successful team. Empowerment and personal responsibility are what transform an employee into a valued member of a well-functioning team. When each person becomes responsible for the energy they bring to the workplace, you create an unstoppable team and an unforgettable experience for your clients.
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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Barbara,age 78: Esthetician 30yrs Nanc y,age 65: Client M at u r i n g S k i n ( u n t o u c h e d i m a g e ; e y e a n d l i p m a k e u p o n l y ) T h e u n i q u e r e l at i o n s h i p b e t w e e n E s t h e t i c i a n a n d c l i e n t i s n o t j u s t s k i n d e e p . I t i s a b o n d t h at d e v e l o p s o v e r t i m e . B a r b a r a a n d N a n c y h a v e k n o w n o n e a n o t h e r f o r o v e r 2 d e c a d e s . B e i n g a d vo c at e s o f V i k t o r i a D e ’A n n Pe p t i d e Co s m e c e u t i c a l s , t h e i r m u t u a l c o n n e c t i o n p r o v i d e d t h e m w i t h b e a u t i f u l , h e a l t h y s k i n a n d a f r i e n d s h i p t h at w i l l l a s t a l i f e t i m e .
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BE THE
LIGHT How to Infuse Energy Work into Your Life and Career by Ashley Sachs
Energy is in everything: people, plants, animals, food, rooms, furniture, tools, products, etc. When you strip all of these things down to their microscopic components, all that is left are waves of energy. Energy is invisible to the naked eye, but we know that when we plug in a lamp and turn the light on, energy is causing the light to shine. We usually just think of energy as this invisible magic that allows us to make coffee in the morning and turn on our blow dryers, but there is much more to energy. Imagine the feeling you get when walking into a hospital versus a yoga studio. That feeling is based on the energy in everything in your environment. When you are conscious of how energy works you can think of yourself as a wall outlet possessing the power for others to plug into and light up.
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organic & wellness Be The Light
The scientific benefits of meditation are indisputable. to 90). I also like to follow a few yoga YouTubers, some of my favorites are: The Journey Junkie and Boho Beautiful. I started with Yoga with Adriene’s 30 days of yoga that is suitable for all ages and strength levels. The optimal form of movement is the kind that you will do every day whether it be walking, running, dancing, yoga, pilates, etc.
Manifest Where focus goes energy flows. When your morning is focused on meditating and moving, you have elevated your vibratory field making you a powerful outlet full of energy ready to be plugged into. However, before giving your energy to others, use that golden energy for yourself to manifest. Close your eyes and visualize your goals and dreams (including your day ahead) as if watching yourself on a movie screen.
Start a Personal Practice The most powerful way to infuse positive energy into your life (including your treatment room or spa) is to start a morning energy-producing practice using the four M’s: Meditate, Move, Manifest and Mantra.
Meditate Meditating simply means focusing on the present moment, feeling your breath circulating in and out. The scientific benefits of meditation are indisputable, but as someone who practices on a daily basis I can assure you that meditating for even five minutes in the morning will make you happier, calmer and more appreciative and aware of what you have. Meditating daily makes you a stronger outlet. If the thought of sitting still and focusing on your breath
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for even five minutes is daunting, you can begin with the assistance of guided meditations on YouTube or use apps like Headspace and Calm.
Move Exercising results in obvious and again scientifically proven physical health benefits. What we may not understand yet is that exercising also moves stuck energy out, making room for positive energy to flow. The stuck energy I am referring to is the stress, negativity and trauma that you accumulate every day and over a lifetime. My movement of choice is yoga and I practice from home mostly using a free app called Down Dog that allows you to choose your level and duration of practice (from 5 minutes
Mantra Creating a personal mantra (i.e. a word, thought or statement used to aid in concentration in meditation) for when challenges and obstacles arise (e.g an angry driver or stressed out client) is a powerful tool. Repeating a mantra when you are presented with these situations will bring your awareness back to your morning state of being and protect your energy field from being infiltrated. Getting upset or angry (although these emotions are normal human behavior) will only affect your energy field. Send positive energy to those in need and maintain your high vibration for those suffering to tap into. An example of a personal mantra is “I am the light.”
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Reiki Healing REI - meaning high power, spiritual consciousness and KI meaning universal life force energy is an ancient healing art that has been around for thousands of years with origins in India and the East dating back to the time periods before Christ and Buddha.
How Does Reiki Work? Reiki heals by directing energy through ones body to free restrictions, blocks and negative energy that have been clogged and lowered by negative thoughts, feelings, bad choices and habits. A reiki healing releases lower vibrational energy and allows for the flow of healthy, vibrant energy resulting in feelings of happiness and well-being. Reiki can also be used to send positive energy to a room, your products, tools, etc. My first experience with reiki was quite miraculous and a defining moment in my career. After about 10 minutes of lying on the practitioner’s table, with my eyes closed, not understanding what was actually happening, I started crying. There was no emotion or control behind my tears, no specific thought or reasoning. During our after-treatment discussion, I learned how blocked my energy flow was, stuck from the trauma of my twin sister’s struggle with Anorexia and other mental health illnesses for over 25 years. Once I was able to unblock that energy, I felt light and inspired. I became reiki certified in order to perform reiki
healing on myself. As I healed, I couldn’t deny the benefits and felt called to help others. My career developed new life and purpose and I started channeling reiki energy into my services and products.
Beauty is Energy Body Dysmorphic Disorder (a mental illness characterized by a persistent preoccupation with at least one perceived defect or flaw in a person’s physical appearance) effects an estimated 2.4% of Americans (around 7 million people). People suffering from BDD can focus on any part of the body, but the most common areas are the skin, hair. According to mentalhealthamerica.net some warning signs of someone with BDD are: • Spending excessive time in front of the mirror or purposely avoiding mirrors • Expressing hatred, disgust or general dissatisfaction with either their general physical appearance • Expressing a strong desire to get cosmetic surgery or other cosmetic procedures • Spending more money than the average person on grooming or makeup products • Seeking reassurance about their physical appearance • Making comparisons to others Sound like anyone you know? Beauty is not the enemy, beauty is spirituality on the outside, a form of self-love and huge source of light energy (imagine yourself as a beautiful flower). However without releasing the stuck energy within, beauty can also be dark and lead to BDD and other mental health issues. Our industry NEEDS energy healing! Spas offering services like reiki or other energy healing treatments will add value to existing clients but also attract new clients; people who think that beauty is for the selfabsorbed, people who don’t “care” about beauty, moms or dads who believe they are being selfish by getting a facial and/or people who feel they are unattractive and not worthy. Change the mindset surrounding our amazing industry from superficial to spiritual. Every human is beautiful, it is our job to make them feel it. Be the light. Ashley Sachs is a Beauty Healer, Writer, Licensed Esthetician and Certified in Reiki Level 2 located in Chester County, PA . In order to balance beauty’s magic and curse, Ashley combines energy healing in her custom blended makeup, eyelash extension and microcurrent services. For more information visit www.simplelovelyblended.com or email Ashley at blendedbyashley@gmail.com
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Take Years Off with Brow Lifting Techniques by Umbreen Sheikh
As with most features on our face, our eyebrows change as we age, and not always for the better. One could say they become our “arch enemy” without the proper arsenal of tools and tricks. They can become sparse, they droop, turn grey, change color, and decrease in length, and thickness. To add insult to injury, aging eyebrows often cease to regrow, so a single overzealous tweezing session can leave you with almost nonexistent brows. The good news is, “all of these “ills” can be reversed with some skilled brow work, the right products and at home tips,” says Umbreen Sheikh who is the founder+ CEO of Wink Brow Bar/Salon with locations in New York and London as well as an eponymous line of eye and face products.
The Brow is the New
Facelift
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image The Brow is the New Facelift
Shape Umbreen says that “Brows can visually lift or droop the face—they are defining attributes that complement not only your face but the way you want the world to see you. The shape of your brows plays a big part in the appearance of your overall look. You can appear younger by having a fuller brow. Thin brows typically age the face, so opt for fuller brow shapes and use makeup to make the brows appear fuller.”
Eyebrow Threading Threading is the easiest way to shape your brows by a professional. They will help determine the best shape for your face and also make your brows defined and crisp. Threading is the best way to do your brows if you have sensitive skin or allergies to waxing products. Threading is also fast, so you will be in and out of your appointment in no time.
Pencil If you have naturally thinner brows with less hair, consider filling in your brows to create a fuller look. Pencil is a better choice over other makeup such as pomades or waxes because pencil looks very natural and you can achieve a precise shape to the brow. Make sure to keep the pencil tip sharpened so that you can have complete control over your application.
Take the Tweezers out of your Hands We’re all guilty of doing this at times. We’ll try to get the perfect arch and end up with eyebrows that are way too thin. The best thing to do is to hide your tweezers and leave the plucking to the professionals. I know, it’s hard to do especially in-between salon appointments, but your brows will thank you in the end.
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image The Brow is the New Facelift
Color The eyebrow makeup color should match your brows and not the hair on your head. Matching the makeup color to your existing brow hairs will keep a youthful appearance. Don’t go too dark in color for the brows because darker colors will age you if you don’t have naturally dark brown hair.
Highlight Another trick to use for your brows to help you appear younger is to highlight them. Use a lighter colored pencil or eyeshadow that’s ivory or beige to highlight the arch of your brow. This will make your brow appear lifted for a younger look. Also, consider highlighting on top of the brow arch to further define the arch shape.
When Brow “Tails Fade at the Edges Brows naturally thin at the outer edges (by your temples) first, but fading can also be the result of overplucking. "The tail of the brow is the part that sets off the arch, which makes eyes look youthful" says Umbreen. "Without it, eyes
seem droopy and tired." The Solution: Lengthen your brow tails with a pencil.
Trim If your brow hairs are long in some spots, try to trim them with brow scissors. Trimming the brows will further enhance the shape and keep the brow hairs looking very groomed and in place for a youthful appearance.
Avoid Wax In my opinion, threading is best for your brows, not waxing. I see a lot of people make a mistake with waxing. You shouldn’t be stripping your skin so close to the eyebrow with wax. It can make your skin soften earlier and make your skin wrinkle sooner.
Brush Out Your Brows
shape and stimulates growth. There’s [nothing] more stimulating than brushing your brows.
Lash Serums If you have sparse or thin brow hairs, consider using a lash serum to help grow more hair for a fuller and younger style. All-natural castor oil or proteinpacked serums sold in stores can help strengthen your eyebrow hair. It may take a few months of daily application, but the results will be worth it. Stronger & fuller brow hairs mean less time filling in the brows with makeup for a fuller look!
Umbreen Sheikh is the found and CEO of Wink Brow Bar. In 2014, she developed the concept for Wink. Today, her empire includes three Wink Brows Bars
I don’t know why people don’t do this. Just brushing your brows changes the
in Manhattan, one in Brooklyn and one in London. Learn more at www.winkbrowbar.com
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This versatile Digital Permanent Makeup Machine is perfect for eyebrows, lips, micropigmentation, scalp treatments, nano brows and all tattoos.
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M.A.D PHOTO GUARD SPF 20 ANTI-AGING EYE CREAM
A combination of the best nature and science have to offer in this powerful, anti-aging SPF eye treatment. Formulated with Uniprotect 3, a bioactive complex that helps protect skin from future UV damage.
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65................ Advanced Esthetics / Adonyss ................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 19................ Advanced Medical Aesthetic Solution ........................................................................... meditimeusa.com 76................ Altair Instruments..................................................................................................... altairinstruments.com 4,5............... Bio-Therapeutic ......................................................................................................... bio-therapeutic.com 7.................. Celluma ..............................................................................................................................biophotas.com 39................ CelleClè Skincare ....................................................................................................... cellecleskincare.com 64................ Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc ....................................................................................................... dr-jeff.com 2,3,63.......... Eminence Organic Skin Care .................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 9.................. Eve Taylor ....................................................................................................... evetaylornorthamerica.com 75................ Equipro USA .................................................................................................................... equipro-bty.com 15................ G.M. Collin Skin Care ........................................................................................................... gmcollin.com 67................ Grandelash MD............................................................................................................grandelashmd.com 51................ Hempfield Botanicals............................................................................................hempfielbotanicals.com 22,23........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach ..................................... LongBeach.skincareshows.com 58,59........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami ...................................................... Miami.skincareshows.com 53................ Industry Cosmetics ..............................................................................................................gomyskin.com 73................ Rejuvi Laboratory .................................................................................................................. rejuvilab.com 31................ RevealU Skincare ...................................................................................................... Revealuskincare.com 57................ Viktoria Dé Ann ............................................................................................................ viktoriadeann.com
*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
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