LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals July 2018
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from the
editor
Bio-Therapeutic
TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED
SKIN CARE
My first introduction to Ayurveda was in esthetics school. There was a chapter in my textbook about Ayurvedic skin care and spa therapy. I remember thinking that reading a textbook chapter was no way to learn and experience the centuries of wisdom and life knowledge held within the traditions of Ayurveda. Luckily, my advanced skin care instructor was a passionate Ayurvedic practitioner who instilled in me a curiosity and deep understanding of the role Ayurveda plays in the health and well-being of our clients.
This month’s Ayurveda Guide is the result of my passion for educating beyond the pages of a textbook. I hope this guide is a jumping-off point for you in your journey through the history of Ayurveda. Please connect with the authors in this month’s issue. Experience is the best teacher, and this month’s contributors have experience enough to share for decades. Indulge in their teachings Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card
and find yourself inspired to offer a deeper level of
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healing in your spa…
All the best,
Cristina Beecham Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com
bio-therapeutic.com July2018
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Correction: The June Issue mislabeled Maxine Drake as the Esthetician Mentor. The Esthetician Mentor trademark belongs to Lori Crete.
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July volume 33 number 7
contents 6 From the Editor 82 Advertiser Index
40
Ayurvedic Skin Care
16 Treating Hyperpigmentation
44
Beauty Through Balance
50
Ayurveda In The Spa
56
Make It Modern
60
Ayurveda Photo Feature
19 Skin News
12 Caviar Indulgence
spa
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39 Ayurveda Guide
Skincare Lounge Spa,
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Going Green
Philadelphia, PA
70
Neem Skin Care
73
Organic and Wellness News
26
Shiro-Abhyanga-Nasya
30
Spa News
o&w
skin
This Summer
guide
12 Caviar Indulgence
26 Shiro-Abhyanga-Nasya Behind The Spa Door with Melissa Fox 34
Winning Over the Holistic Client
38
Business News
34 Winning Over the Holistic Client
74
image
business
32
64 Going Green
One Of A Kind Brows with Lucy Rodriguez
76
Au naturel
81
Image News
76 Au naturel
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Annette Figueredo Cathi Bates Aurora Solis Halley Hargonich Bella Schneider Lucy Rodriguez Carrie Borzillo Melanie Sachs
V I S I T
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Melissa Fox Pamela Taylor
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Caviar Indulgence A skin care ingredient for regeneration and healthy aging by Bella Schneider 12
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Caviar isn’t only a delicacy to eat. It has amazing skin care benefits when used topically. It is known for its regenerative, skinplumping properties and has been shown to help slow aging. Loaded with vitamins and amino acids, caviar provides building blocks for skin cells to function optimally.
What is caviar? Caviar is made from the raw eggs of the prized sturgeon fish. To preserve sturgeon from extinction, caviar is produced by careful farming in select areas of the world to fulfill environmental and quality standards. Caviar has all the goodness of marine sea minerals, and many anti-aging properties in topical skin care including repairing skin damage and stimulating skin cell metabolism. Caviar in cosmetics is the extract of fresh raw roe eggs before they are salted and preserved in a caviar form.
A brief history: Caviar was once reserved for royalty. Russian Tsars launched its popularity as a delicacy, since sturgeons were found in the Caspian Sea and Black Sea. The French started importing caviar from Russia, which sparked a global desire for the highly sought after and expensive delicacy. Caviar today is still seen as a luxury and is available in many different varieties and forms. It has become a popular ingredient in skin care over the last five years and continues to be seen as a highly effective moisturizing and anti-aging agent.
How does it help skin? The extravagant freshwater delicacy of caviar does wonders for skin when added as an ingredient to skin care products. Studies have shown that caviar contains antioxidant properties that strengthen skin, and the omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids are
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skin Caviar Indulgence
two nutrients that often result in glowing skin. Other researchers have found that it stimulates collagen and minimizes wrinkles. Here is a breakdown of the key benefits: • Rich in nutrients: Caviar has many beneficial properties to bolster skin strength. The rich amino acids and proteins are essential building blocks for cellular integrity. Deeply nourishing, wet caviar is made up of water, glucides, proteins, lipids, fatty acids, palmitic, oleic, linoleic acids as well as EPA, DHA, and Docosapentaenoic acid. It has vast minerals including sodium, selenium, potassium, phosphor, magnesium and calcium and vitamins such as D and A. Its high protein contents, including 17 amino acids, improve the skin's outer layers and increase skin strength. These nutrients improve the skin's dermis elasticity and help to prevent the erosion of tissues. • Rebuilds skin cells: Skin is made up of protein. Because caviar is high in the amino acids form of protein, it is immediately ingested by the skin which 14
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bolsters skin's strength helping it stay youthful, more energized, and healthier. These amino acids prevent skin aging and fatigue. Caviar has high concentrations of arginine, the key building block of proteins, which plays a pivotal role in cell division, the healing of wounds and immune function. Caviar's vitamins and trace elements revitalize the skin. Vitamin A renews skin cells, and vitamin D promotes cell function and healing. • Retains moisture: Caviar is easily absorbed by skin, creating soothing benefits for all skin types. It is 50 to 70 percent water and because of its similar structure to human amino acids, this moisture is directly absorbed by the skin. Amino acids are imperative to the skin's ability to retain moisture and stay hydrated. Fatty acids (some of them essentials) restructure skin on the epidermis lipidic fences, helping to prevent trans epidermic water loss and maintain high levels of skin moisture. In other words, rich omega-3 fats form a protective, glowing layer on the skin. The carbohydrates found in caviar, particularly glucose, fructose, sucrose and glycogen directly moisturize the skin.
• Increases collagen production: Collagen is the protein responsible for skin youth and vitality. Because the cell structure of Caviar is very similar to that of human skin, it boosts skin fortitude and the production of high-quality collagen. Since skin aging is marked by a breakdown of collagen, this boost of collagen retards aging. Caviar helps to speed up the natural production of collagen, and in time it helps to plump up and thicken the skin, creating a younger, firmer appearance. Some studies conclude that caviar speeds up the production of collagen up to 67 percent. • Reverses damage: Caviar's moisture qualities create a barrier to the elements, protecting it from the damaging effects of UV radiation, environmental pollutants, dehydration, and climate. This inhibits aging and skin damage. Caviar improves cell function and minimizes inflammation around skin cells. Its high content of Omega 3 fatty acids, good essential fats with a high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids, creates a healthier more even skin. Omega-3 strengthens skin cell membranes, enabling the passage of nutrients in and
skin Caviar Indulgence
to the vitamins A, D, B and amino acids found in caviar. Other benefits include increased circulation, tissue repair, improved skin tone, and vibrant, luminous skin.
Other ways to use caviar to help skin
out of the cell and increasing the cells capacity to hold water. This water is what creates moist, hydrated and youthful looking skin. Omega-3 also reduces inflammation that is a major contributor to skin aging. Inflammation causes a multitude of negative skin conditions such as wrinkles, acne, and redness. Caviar products improve skin smoothness, hydration, and firmness while reducing fine lines.
How to use caviar in a skin care regimen Caviar is ideal to add to a night cream, masks, serums, anti-wrinkle treatments, eye creams, body milk and hair products. Combine caviar with gold treatments for the ultimate combination of land & sea natural minerals. It is a high-end and effective ingredient that
clients are more willing to spend their money on. Many spas also offer caviar facials. Rich, indulgent and nourishing, this anti-aging powerhouse is the ideal luxurious treat as part of a regular restorative regimen. The caviar helps with plumping and moisture; and provides a wealth of vitamins, minerals and amino acids to skin for instant skin repair and reduced signs of aging. Caviar serum ampules are a great at-home way to feed the skin essential nutrients to preserve natural beauty and youth by renovating cells. Caviar serum ampules infuse moisture-packed marine DNA extracts, leveraging the best-kept secrets of the sea in the war against dryness and aging. Caviar is also becoming a popular ingredient in exfoliants. It helps to rapidly promote cell regeneration thanks
Fish roe supplements benefit skin and hair health because of their notably high concentrations of proteins, vitamins, minerals, omegas, lipids, amino acids, and antioxidants. Roe comes from different kinds of fish including beluga sturgeon (true caviar), other types of sturgeon (the source of a lot of imitation caviar), salmon (the redorange eggs in sushi), and carp, all with diverging nutritional compositions. Supplementing can help ensure that the body is receiving all the nutrients it needs in order to regenerate itself. The high concentration of nutrients available in fish roe when ingested internally works synergistically to protect the body against toxicity, aging and overall dryness. Omega-3 fatty acids reduce symptoms of rosacea and stimulate skin regeneration. One tablespoon of caviar contains the entire daily requirement of B12, which as everybody knows, is essential to the health of the skin, hair and nails. High doses of zinc ensure immune protection. High concentrations of vitamin E are essential in the production of antibodies. Finally, iron is essential in red blood cell production.
Bella Schneider is the founder and CEO of LaBelle Day Spas & Salons and an international product formulator and distributor through Bella Schneider Beauty (BSB). In her 40 years of experience in skin care science, Schneider has been an innovator in ethnic skin care, peels and peer education.
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Treating
Hyperpigmentation
This Summer The do's and don't's of hyperpigmentation treatment and sun exposure by Aurora Solis
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The perfect summer accessory is glowing, golden skin. Throughout the year, clients go to extreme measures to prep their skin for a makeup-free beach season. As skin care specialists, we perform the most advanced and effective treatments available to our clients on a monthly basis. But what happens when summer comes around and there is still work to be done? Perhaps those sunspots haven’t quite faded, or the acne scars are still visible on the client's skin. How can we still treat these concerns throughout the summer without causing further damage to the skin as our clients start to spend more time in the sun? Let’s discuss ways to keep hyperpigmentation at bay during the summer and how to continue improving the condition.
Summertime No-No’s Before we get into the best treatments and precautions for treating hyperpigmentation in the summer, let’s review a few things not to do this summer. We all know that the sun wreaks havoc on our skin and causes premature aging and photodamage. But how does the sun affect all the positive things we’re trying to do for our skin? Unfortunately, sun exposure can take us several steps back when we are using active ingredients such as retinols, acids, and lighteners during the summer. Certain ingredients can react negatively, causing burns, inflammation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation when exposed to the sun. The last thing our clients need when treating hyperpigmentation is for their skin care to be causing more harm than good. Here are the top skin care treatments to avoid performing on clients during the summer:
Peels Acids are some of the most beloved ingredients in an esthetician’s toolbox. But during the summer, they should be used sparingly, if at all. Avoid performing mid to deep level peels on clients during the summer. Sun exposure limits the skin’s ability to heal properly after a chemical procedure. The skin is also more vulnerable to sunburns. Clients will assure you of their adamant sunscreen use, but summer is not the time to trust your clients on this. There are alternative treatments to peels that are summer safe.
Strong Retinoids Retinols work best when used consistently. And although inflammation caused by the sun can make the skin more sensitive to retinol’s side effects, clients need to remain on some level of retinol if they have been consistent for several months, as to maintain and improve their results. Advise your client to use a more gentle formula with a lower dosage of retinol, as this active ingredient can make the skin burn more easily. Remind them to be diligent with sunscreen use and encourage them to stop using retinol for a few days if they will be going to the beach or on a summer holiday.
Intense Pulse Light (IPL) Another effective treatment for hyperpigmentation that should be avoided during summer. Although IPL is great for sun spots and age spots, it can leave the skin more vulnerable to producing new spots when exposed to the sun. Encourage your clients to save their money and start an IPL treatment plan in the winter.
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skin Treating Hyperpigmentation This Summer
Hydroquinone Similar to your new summer approach to retinols, encourage your clients to lower their dose of hydroquinone during the summer. Encourage diligent SPF usage for well-trusted clients, and request that those clients without well-formed sunscreen habits lay off the hydroquinone for a few months.
Safe Alternatives Thankfully, skin care technology is always evolving and bringing new treatment options to clients for every season. Acids, lighteners, and lasers aren’t the only roads to healthy, clear, and even-toned skin. Here are two alternatives for effective facial treatments that won’t be a damper on fun in the sun.
Vitamin C Facial Vitamin C is the perfect ingredient for summer. Its antioxidant power helps to fight free radicals and photo-aging that your client is exposing themselves to face-first during the summer. Vitamin C will gently help to fade pigmentation that your client has been working on with more aggressive acids and
Brighten & Rejuvenate
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with Plant Meristematic Cells Extract
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retinols during the winter. You can feel confident in knowing that your client's concerns are being addressed safely.
Oxygen Facial Breathe fresh air into your client’s summer skin by adding oxygen facials to your staple summer menu. Oxygen is a great one-two punch for clients looking to treat fine lines and wrinkles while simultaneously detoxifying their skin from all the sweat and sunscreen build-up post-vacation. Oxygen facials are great for promoting collagen production and diminishing the effects of environmental damage. Medical researchers also believe that oxygen skin care can increase cell turnover, which will help fade acne scars and hyperpigmentation. The best part about oxygen facials is that they have little to no side effects or downtime. Unlike other skin treatments, your client can run into the sun (with SPF of course!) right after their treatment, without fear of postinflammatory repercussions.
Client Accountability
Made in USA Dr. Jeff Skin Care Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683
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Email: info@dr-jeff.com Web: www.dr-jeff.com
The most important step in choosing the right summer treatment plan for your client is to know their habits and their level of commitment when it comes to their skin. Use your judgment as a professional to gauge how diligent you believe your client will be with their sunscreen usage, hat wearing and general adherence to your recommendations. At the end of the day, their skin is their responsibility. But, it’s you who they will come to when it all goes downhill. So save yourself some trouble by limiting lightening treatments on finicky clients. This way, your winter books will be full of laser, peels and active ingredient retail sales!
Impressive Defense
Image Skincare’s Vital C Hydrating Antioxidant A C E Serum is a concentrated skin essence infused with vitamins A, C and E, as well as a powerful blend of plant antioxidants that help defend against visible signs of aging such as fine lines, dryness and collagen loss. Green Tea guards against free radical damage and Bearberry Extract naturally brightens skin. A complex of five amino acids helps support healthy collagen and elastin production. The formula is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and/or irritated skin.
Imageskincare.com
ageralabs.com
Mango‘s a Mighty Moisturizer
As a hydrating face mask that soothes inflammation, Osmosis Skincare’s Tropical Mango Barrier Recovery Mask (cruelty-free, vegan, gluten-free) features nut and fruit butters and oils to restore the skin's lipid barrier. This velvety, delectably scented mask features its star ingredient, Mango Seed Butter, while other key ingredients like Sunflower Seed Oil, Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Murumuru Seed Butter, and Olive Fruit Oil calm and hydrate. This oncology friendly, creamy face mask will ease irritated, dehydrated, and rosacea skin conditions.
osmosisskincare.com
Multitasking Essence
DetoxyGlow is an ultra-hydrating and brightening essence that instantly refreshes, restores radiance, and shields the skin against the aging effects of pollution, both indoors and outdoors. This potent essence diminishes the appearance of urban dullness while combatting signs of fatigue and aging caused by cigarette smoke, exhaust fumes, heavy metals, and other environmental pollutants.
cellecleskincare.com
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
Deep Hydration Night Cream has been clinically shown to provide immediate improvement in the skin's appearance overnight and a visible reduction in fine lines and wrinkles in just four weeks. It goes to work immediately, replenishing the skin with Hyaluronic Acid Super Trio, Soy Peptide Complex, Honeysuckle Flower Extract and Vitamin E, which promotes the healing process and strengthens the skin's barrier function. It is light weight, fragrance-free, paraben-free, dye-free, and mineral oil free.
SkinNews
Clinical Hydration
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Skincare Lounge Spa SPA OF THE MONTH
Philadelphia, PA
Advanced skin care meets relaxation in the city by Cristina Beecham
Awarded "Best of Philly" by Philadelphia Magazine two years in a row, Skincare Lounge SPA offers advanced professional treatments for both men and women looking for fast, efficient and enjoyable glamour. In the heart of center city, this rejuvenation haven specializes in waxing, facial treatments, and state of the art skin care retail. The spa's owner, Anthony Guerrera, brings a level of artistry and expertise that instills a sense of pride through service and technical excellence. Skincare Lounge SPA strives to provide the best quality service in a relaxing setting – the true mission of our industry.
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spa Spa of the Month
Signature Treatment S k i n c a re L o u n g e S PA ' s s i g n a ture treatment is the Illuminous Microdermabrasion Facial (60 minutes, $85). Spa owner Anthony Guerrera describes the treatment as "a brilliant biocell facial that regenerates collagen, fibroblast activity and softens facial contours. Clients leave mesmerized with the many scents and aromas, feeling relaxed and refreshed with enthusiasm." The facial begins with a thorough double-cleansing using a sonic cleansing brush and modern hand manipulation. The microdermabrasion is performed emphatically on all five sections of the face, including the eyes and lips for a complete, intense exfoliation. Next, a second gentle exfoliation is applied with an enzyme revitalizing mask and a warm lavender-scented towel, leaving skin smooth and translucent. Gentle extraction, a final cleanse, and a luxurious application of oils prepare the skin for the final treatment mask, oxygen spray, and application of SPF 30.
Waxing Waxing is the backbone of the spa's revenue. Spa owner Guerrera strives to provide "a relaxing atmosphere and expertise that are sure to make waxing treatments comforting." The spa offers numerous specialized waxing options, such as single treatment areas, or combination options. All waxing services at Skincare Lounge SPA are performed in private treatment rooms. Both men and women can find any waxing option that fits their needs. Skincare Lounge SPA offers face and body waxing and asks that hair should be at least one-quarter inch in length for optimal waxing results. To ensure the smoothest effect, Guerrera asks all clients to disclose if they are using any form of Retin-A, glycolic acid, acetone, or any other product that might affect the skin's balance.
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Pre and post waxing care is essential to the spa's smooth results. Guerrera asks that clients refrain from getting sun or using exfoliating products for 24 hours before and after their service. Clients should not fret, as Guerrera has carefully chosen his favorite pre and post care products that the spa imports directly from Italy.
Marketing Skincare Lounge SPA utilizes a broad advertising approach through social media, paid advertising, word of mouth, referrals, and reviews. Spa owner Guerrera explains, "We are always asking clients to send good friends and family to visit Skincare Lounge SPA." Word of mouth and referrals are simple ways to expand your client base and
should not be overlooked as a serious marketing initiative. Guerrera also implements pay-perclick advertising with Google Adwords. He explains that this form of paid advertising is great for "pinpointing our services" and hitting the right target market. Guerrera also uses Google Maps and Yelp as free advertising from positive reviews: "Reviews give clients honest opinions about all products in and outside the spa, earning their trust." The spa also uses weekly promotions to advertise specific services. For example, the Expert Brazilian Wax is available for $35 on Wednesdays and Thursday, as opposed to $45 during alternate days of the week. On Tuesdays, their signature Illuminous Microdermabrasion can be booked for $50, and on Fridays, the Brilliant
spa Spa of the Month
Launch: 2006 Spa Owner: Anthony Guerrera Spa Executive Director: Elias Hadi Timoult Retail Lines: Dermalogica, Physiodermie Method, La Mer, and others Revenue Composition: 60 percent waxing; 40 percent other services Client Ratio: 70 percent women; 30 percent men
Bio-Cell Facial for $65. This method of promotion can easily fill the books on days when certain services are slower, giving estheticians the chance to make their full commission for the week.
Training To maintain Skincare Lounge SPA's mission of excellence, Guerrera believes that "with dedication and knowledge, we endeavor to be the best at what we do."The spa staff meets on a weekly basis to address all concerns related to the spa. Being diligent and staying on top of small concerns helps the spa run smoothly. New estheticians are trained upon hiring, and all staff receives periodic training on new equipment, products, and services. The team also attends two spa conferences annually, including one in Philadelphia. Guerrera enforces education and believes that "this will motivate our staff to take the lead and enhance the client experience at our spa, as our employees will be more educated about the products and services they administer and recommend. However, our goal in the future is to allocate a business budget dedicated to training courses to encourage our team and to keep them on point and up-to-date."
Retail Skincare Lounge SPA offers several professional lines so that clients can receive customized and tailored treatments. Guerrera emphasizes that "we know all our clients are unique and we endeavor to tailor all our treatments to our client's individual needs. When you book an appointment with us, you can be sure that you will receive the highest standard of customer service, leaving you feeling young and fresh, glowing both inside and out." Products used in treatments are available for retail so that clients can take part of the same experience home with them and continue their path to results. Products are chosen by the spa owner based on employee knowledge and comfort, as well as training so that staff can be quick to suggest the right products for their clients.
Spa Director Spotlight: Anthony Guerrera brings his artistry and more than two decades of experience working for some of the area's top exclusive spas. Anthony has performed thousands of flawless microdermabrasions, facial and waxing treatments. He specializes in recreating his clients' youthful appearance through the combination of skin care and is an expert in Brazilian
Rundown Skincare Lounge SPA 1735 Chestnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19102 skincareloungespa.com (215) 384 – 3000
and body waxing.
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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ShiroAbhyangaNasya Entering a state of bliss through Ayurvedic mind, body and spirit healing by Halley Hargonich When deciding to offer Ayurvedic services in a spa environment, we should understand what Ayurveda is and how it can benefit the lifestyle and health choices of our clients. Ayurveda in Sanskrit means “Life Knowledge;” it is the practice of creating a life/health balance from one’s own Doshas. Entering the realm of holistic healing will guide you to recreating peaceful, stress-less days. Choosing which Ayurvedic treatments to offer can be challenging if you are unfamiliar with these practices. There are several traditional Ayurvedic practices. One of the most relaxing and healing is Shiro-Abhyanga Nasya. Let’s explore how this full body treatment helps heal the mind, body and spirit both at home and in the spa.
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spa Shiro-Abhyanga-Nasya
Why Ayurvedic Healing? Reasons why clients might come to you for Ayurvedic healing can be because of certain chronic ailments, help reducing stress, insomnia, digestive issues, and boosting the immune system. As spa therapists, you can help them find the path to healing through specific techniques and by creating a customized, holistic treatment plan. The first step in giving this type of healing to clients is providing Ayurvedic services. These modalities treat mind, body and spirit and are deeply relaxing and gratifying for the client. The second is clear and open communication with the client. Clear dialogue will determine the flow for the massage, and will determine which massage oils, essential oils, meditations and overall treatment strategies should be used to address the client's specific concerns.
Choosing the Right Treatment The decision of booking the right spa treatment for the client is just the start to regenerating the body and healing the mind. Some popular treatments include: body massages with warm oil (Abhyanga), Shirodhara, Ayurvedic reflexology and Chakra balancing massages, to name a few. If you get the chance to visit an Ayurvedic spa, take your time to read over the spa menu and its offerings. Each service is uniquely identified within it, and you can find balance singularly in one area of the body or achieve it all over. It is important that your spa menu is clear and contains accurate and thorough descriptions of the treatments and their goals. For clients, sometimes it’s best in the beginning to try one thing at a time; if not, over-detoxing will occur and improvements to healing will be over-stimulated and the client won’t see the naturally occurring effects when focusing on what is out of balance.
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Shiro-AbHyanga-Nasya One spa treatment in particular, the Shiro-Abhyanga-Nasya, is probably the most blissful state of relaxation, as if entering Nirvana. Shiro-AbhyangaNasya is an art of using aromatic steam, hot oil, facial techniques that includes lymphatic drainage and acupressure, along with Shirodhara, all in one service. When combined with a full body massage, you can complete in full circle a guided journey to harmony that your client will carry within himself or herself. Begin the treatment by checking your client in for the reservation. Urge them to dress comfortably so that when they go home afterwards, they can sink into a meditative state of mind and fall fast asleep. As the therapist, guide your client first to get relaxed by showering and then using the steam room, if one is available. It is important to shower
before the treatment, as to cleanse the body in preparation for the massage. The types of oils that are used for this service must be very specific. For the Shirodhara, grapeseed oil should be used. The oils for the scalp and body should be made of herbs and nuts, such as sesame, avocado, jojoba, almond, primrose, and other botanical oils. To perform this very special and unique treatment for your guest, begin with choosing the right essential oil that denotes the olfactory gland- the sense of smell. The keynote of the essential oil will bring the client back to center, grounding the body and clearing the Chakras. Have the client lie face up, with a heavy eye pillow on his or her eyes. Start with a dry exfoliation or body scrub, working around the body and ending on the back. Take your time and exfoliate well to prep the body
spa Shiro-Abhyanga-Nasya
for the hot oil to penetrate and nourish the skin through the open pores, while going directly into the massage. As you circle back through the massage into supine position (face up), have your facial steamer on for an aromatic steam inhalation by using gentle pressure techniques for a guided lymphatic drainage (a lymphatic massage certificate should be required) following with sinus acupressure points on the face. This part will end with a hot oil scalp massage, using pressure points on the scalp, too. Completing the treatment with the Shirodhara induces a deep relaxation. Finish by directing your client to a hot steam bath (a steam room or hydracapsule is recommended). You may even close your client’s journey with a guided meditation. After receiving the service, clients should be sure to take deep long breathes, move slowly and drink plenty of water. And, repeat monthly!
Energy Work The energy work that is found in Ayurveda can connect your client closer to his or her spiritual self and give a profound insight to the type of healing we want to create for the body. We tend to carry pain from the past and
present deep in our muscles; this is why acupressure during the massage for the sore and tight areas should be focused on as a way to release symptoms of sadness and stress. This type of self-care is necessary for a healthy life balance. Using certain oils and massage modalities brings awareness to the space in our head and the surrounding area of the body when we clench our jaw and keep our racing thoughts in our mind, causing strain in the muscles of the upper body like our shoulders, arms and neck. This creates blocks and prevents the energy from flowing through naturally. Unblocking these channels will bring calmness and sereneness, enlightening the self and the true nature of one’s Doshas. The goal for these treatments is for the client’s highest self to manifest the peace they want in their lives. Your client can replicate the effects of these treatments at home by recreating positive and essential daily rituals through self-care. Encourage them to purchase a dry brush and an exfoliating scrub for the face and body to stimulate microcirculation. Encourage
them to follow with an application of blended botanical oils to restore and renew the skin. Also, hot baths filled with salts, herbs, minerals and aromatherapy are great for an authentic infusion, repairing the mind while relieving the body of inflammation and impurities. When your clients can’t get to the spa or center to regain and reinvigorate, they should try these methods at home, and create intentions and a space to practice mindfulness.
Halley Hargonich is the Spa Director for the Palms Hotel and Spa in Miami Beach, an Aveda Spa. Halley leads her spa team through daily operations, building revenue, and improving effectiveness using the Aveda concept on Ayurvedic and Wellness initiatives. Halley also provides as a consultant to build client relations between the hotel guests and hotel employees along with social networking through the Chamber of Commerce.
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Meet the PRO!
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Behind
The Spa Door CONCEPT
Flawless by Melissa Fox, Miami, FL 32
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How can you define the concept of your spa? I am very results-driven. I don’t like fluff and buff. My clients like results, so I like to do a different facial on everyone. I’m always tricking the skin so they never know what they’re going to get! What are the most popular treatments? For sure Dermaplaning! Everyone loves that red carpet look with a shiny, dewy glow. Of, course Hydrafacial is very popular with my clients as well.
LEADERSHIP ROLE What daily challenges do you encounter in your position? It’s a balance. The balance is tough. How do I manage my time but still give 100 percent energy to my clients? I get here very early to do ordering of supplies and answer emails. The rest of my day is reserved for clients. The client on the table is the number one priority! How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? Meditation! Lots of meditation. Massage and self-care. You have to take care of yourself or you can’t take care of others. I’m really good about doing meditation in my room in the mornings to ground myself. How did you manage your time when first starting out? For two years, I didn’t slow down. I worked six days a week, 12 hours a day. You can’t work like that. When I shortened my schedule and raised my prices, it made me more exclusive. Always find a way to accommodate. If I have to come in, I’ll do it. People will wait if they want to see you bad enough. TEAM BUILDING Why did you decide to bring on another esthetician to work under you? I was pregnant and I needed someone to cover my clients. It was so hard to let control go, but I had to in order to grow. It was forced, I had to or my clients would go elsewhere. Thankfully it worked out! What did you prioritize in training your new hire? People come to see me for my extraction technique. It was really important for me to teach her my extraction meth-
od. My theory is that you should go pore by pore. I use a special technique so clients leave as least pink as possible. Not too hard, not too soft, just right. I had to teach her the right pattern to go on the face, and to be very thorough. RETAIL What are your retail goals? For Marissa, I have a 10 percent goal. I’m not about selling, I’m about recommending. It is always great to give recommendations. There are so many brands out there. My personal sales goal is non-existent. If I see something they need, I will recommend it. What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals? We do a product commission. Every time she makes her goal, we go together and get manis and pedis. I take an hour to treat her to a juice and we practice self-care together. MARKETING & PUBLICITY What can you tell us about your marketing techniques? My business is entirely word of mouth. I do have a social media manager who is amazing! My clients tell everyone about my services. I don’t want to be online and get negative press. I like being mysterious. It brings a sense of exclusivity.
EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE How do you keep clients loyal and consistent? What I’ve noticed in this industry is it’s all a cycle. When their skin is beautiful and happy, they fall off the wagon and there is room for new people. My clients know to come every four to six weeks and they book before they leave. You have to make sure they never leave your room without an appointment! What incentives do you offer to your clients to be sure they come back again? I don’t believe in discounting. I don’t think it builds loyalty. My clients know that I value my services.
TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS What are the most important lessons you have learned? Follow up with everyone! How I built my clientele was if I didn’t see someone for a while, I would write a note and send it to their house. Show that you care and go above and beyond!
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Winning Over the Holistic Client Adjust your menu and your marketing to attract holistic clients
by Cristina Beecham
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Holistic skin care clients are a growing market for estheticians and spa therapists. The natural and organic beauty market is expected to reach an estimated 25 billion dollars by 2025, according to a report by Grand View Research, Inc. This growth translates into real, paying customers and loyal clients for your business. The holistic market has a lot to offer your business, but what do you need to offer your clients in order to reap the rewards? Here’s how to approach holistic clients in a way that connects with them and their needs:
Inside-Out Consultation Holistic clients are looking for more than just a facial and a suggested skin care routine. Be prepared to lay out a comprehensive treatment plan that addresses not only their skin care concerns, but also their daily stress, hormonal imbalances, mindfulness practices and spiritual hunger. Be prepared to offer suggestions on dietary changes, supplements, stress relief habits, and mindfulness tools to better support your client’s journey. Consultations with holistic clients can be expected to take longer than with conventional clients, as you are addressing more than just the skin. Sit with your client in an area away from the treatment room and retail area. Offer a quiet, comfortable place to chat about his or her goals and about how he or she wants to feel and look in a few months time. Take note on how your clients talk about the way they feel and how it is connected to how they look. It is your job to bridge that gap and offer treatments to create harmony between the two.
Holistic Lingo While the most popular facial on your menu might be called the Non-Surgical Face Lift, holistic clients are looking for a different set of adjectives when it comes to their spa treatments. Holistic means “the whole picture.” Clients want you to take care of their whole self: mind, body and spirit in the treatment room. Altering your language from words like “advanced delivery” and “results-oriented” to more comprehensive,
mindful language like “youth-restoring” and “balancing” will keep clients from immediately turning the other way when reading your menu. Speak their language, and they will be open to discussing treatment options with you. Use terms that reflect the health focus of your services, such as “natural,” “organic,” “nourishing,” and “non-invasive.” Leave out terms like “non-surgical,” “medical,” and “injection. It is common that holistic clients are more concerned with how they feel on the inside than with how they look on the outside. The terminology used in your menu and when speaking to these clients should be reflective of this difference.
Menu Makeover Add a holistic or natural remedies section to your spa menu. This way, holistic clients feel you are specially catering to them, rather then feeling like they have to “make it work” with the more conventional services you already offer. Making your clients feel comfortable is the first step in booking the appointment. Holistic clients want to feel catered to in a specific way. When choosing holistic services to offer, think about your most popular facial services. Are they brightening, lifting, tightening, detoxifying? Aim to address each of those concerns with an alternative treatment. For example, rather than a Microneedling facial, you might add an Acupressure facial to your holistic menu. Similarly, an Acne facial might be replaced with a Detoxifying facial. Your holistic client will have many of the same skin concerns as your conventional clients, so those issues need to be addressed through your treatments and products used. It is the approach, the wording, and the environment in which these skin problems are solved that speak to a holistic client.
Back Bar Refresh An important part of offering holistic services is carrying a line of natural and organic products to be used in the treatment room. Choosing a new line to carry is always overwhelming, as
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business Winning Over the Holistic Client out, your retail selection might need a boost in self-care products. Aside from offering the same natural and organic products you will be using in the treatment room, begin to curate books and general lifestyle products for your holistic clients. They will see you as more than just a skin care provider, but as a holistic guide and coach. The products you offer should reflect your desire to help clients look good and feel better. Items such as meditation guides, dry brushes, incense and candles, and essential oil diffusers are a few non skin care items that you can carry in your retail area. Get to know your client and his or her lifestyle to better cater to their retail needs. You will find that your holistic clients are some of the most loyal clients you will come across. They appreciate all of your talents, not just the products you use. Holistic clients are grateful and appreciate good conversation and genuine connection to their service pro-
there is so much on the market. Take your time in finding the right one. It’s important that you feel strongly connected to the brand and products you bring into your spa. Holistic clients are often well educated in natural products and expect you to know the ins and outs of how the product was made and formulated. Choose companies with strong educational support. Make sure to familiarize yourself with the various natural and organic certifications, and take the steps towards becoming a guru when it comes to natural remedies and ingredient alternatives. Start to craft facial services without your favorite active ingredients, replacing them with natural botanical extracts with similar brightening, firming and detoxifying properties.
Comprehensive Retail Because holistic clients are looking to achieve health and beauty inside and
Once you nail the holistic approach, you’ll find it benefits your life in more ways than one! vider. Start studying holistic practices and get ready to add these new treatment concepts to your menu. Once you nail the holistic approach, you’ll find it benefits your life in more ways than one! Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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A New Age of Spa
Bioelements professional skin care is excited to announce the creation of a new advanced esthetics initiative for 2018. Bioelements Pop-Up Education will bring the skin care company's sought-after advanced education to select esthetics institutions across the country. The New Age Spa Institute (NASI), a fully accredited school in Illinois that teaches to the highest standards and was founded to provide state-of-the-art education, is the first Bioelements Pop-Up Education partner school.
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Super Star Secret Weapon
Reef Conscious Sunscreen
The state of Hawaii passed a law prohibiting the sale of sunscreen containing oxybenzone anywhere in the state. The law takes effect in 2021. Representatives for Carefree Skincare, makers of Block & Tackle, Carefree Natural and Rubber Ducky Oxybenzone-free sunscreen were present in the March, 2016 meeting in which the state requested that all major sunscreen manufactures eliminate oxybenzone from their product because the University of Hawaii has determined that oxybenzone is the single most destructive active ingredient in sunscreen on reef life.
July2018
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Re-Branding Initiatives
G.M. Collin is thrilled to launch a new brand image that focuses on G.M. Collin's core values: Results, Quality and Elegance. The rebrand's objective is to make consumers feel the emotion and heart of the brand with new visuals, while also providing a better understanding of the quality and purpose of each product. With the help of new marketing visuals and branding materials along with and overhaul of the website and social media platforms, the company’s core values and the true meaning of G.M. Collin are now better communicated and well-expressed to both our current and prospective consumers.
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To complement ACM Awards 2018 host Reba McEntire’s shimmery and sparkly white gown, celebrity makeup artist Brett Freedman gave her a brand new glow, using FarmHouse Fresh® products. Freedman starting with face prep the night before, applying the new FarmHouse Fresh Mighty Tighty Mask, which contains banana, turmeric and echinacea ingredients. “The ACM’s are tomorrow night...and it’s all about the prep! Making sure Reba’s skin is firm and glowing is easy peezy w/my secret weapon: Farmhouse Fresh’s Mighty Tighty Turmeric & Banana Mask!,” he said.
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Ayurveda Guide
Finding Balance Through Ancient Rituals
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How ancient rituals translate into modern client care by Annette Figueredo
Ayurvedic Skin Care Through the Ages Natural Ayurvedic skin care dates back as far as the Aryan period BCE, when groups of IndoAryan natives migrated into Northwestern regions of India, and with them came ancient beautification secrets. Elaborate drawings of women adorned in beautiful garments can be found in ancient caves, displaying the use of cosmetics and what is believed to be scents of Jasmine, Sandalwood and Rose. Early rituals of skin rejuvenation depict herbal preparations using Turmeric, Saffron and Nettle Leaves. One of the earliest surviving Ayurvedic texts dating back to the year 500 AD, Ashtanga Hridaya, provides herbal formulations for facial treatments that can be used at the end of each season in order to cleanse the accumulation of toxins before the next season begins. This practice restores balance to the skin and prevents the buildup of ama, or toxins, beneath the skin’s surface, which will eventually lead to premature aging and deterioration of healthy skin if left untreated.
Skin Care Ayurvedic
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Ayurveda Guide
must remove internal stress, while also protecting our skin from environmental exposure. Internal balance and beautiful skin will follow.
Skin As The Gatekeeper Ayurveda describes the skin as the largest organ of the body, since it is a major channel of absorption and secretion. The skin indirectly affects all bodily systems due to the constant flow of energy and fluids absorbed and secreted through it. The skin absorbs every ingredient we place on it including oils, lotions, compresses and salves. Once absorbed, these substances are broken down by the body to be filtered through the bloodstream and nourish all cells of the body. Likewise, we can eliminate toxins through the skin by way of healthy and unclogged sweat glands. Our skin is the physical shield of defense between one’s inner world and the outer world, and is one of the body’s major gateways between what comes in and what comes out. Since the skin is a major guardhouse for what is permitted to enter the body, we realize the all-important role our skin has in keeping us healthy. It is a remarkable realization that one can affect health in a positive way by refining one’s skin care regimen.
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Daily Rituals and Stress-Free Living One of the hallmarks of Ayurveda is living in complete harmony with the universe, which requires moderation in all areas of life, including gentle seasonal detoxes followed by proper daily routine, or dinyacharya, for long-term health maintenance. Eating according to the seasons, daily meditation and regular bodywork serve to detoxify and purify the mind and body. Panchakarma is recommended every season to eliminate toxic build-up (or ama) and clear the channels of elimination. The mind must be detoxified because stress prevents tissues from receiving proper blood flow and nourishment. The skin is the last of our body tissues to receive nutrients, since the body nourishes internal organs and tissues first. Therefore, the skin is the last to get nourished while it is the first to experience damage from free radicals and environmental toxins. This creates the perfect condition in today’s high stress world for premature aging. To change our outward appearance, we
Non-Invasive Procedures Historically in Ayurveda, gentle methods that work along the body’s innate rhythms are favored over drastic measures that shock or create a jolt to the body. Chemical peels and aggressive cleansers can strip away the natural enamel of the skin. They can be harsh, especially for dry or sensitive skin, leaving the skin unprotected. Extractions are not necessary in Ayurvedic skin care. Utmost care is taken to avoid aggravation of the skin, understanding that when the skin is naturally restored to a balanced state, the blemishes and impurities beneath the skin are naturally cleared out without the need to pinch and probe. Unique herbal properties gently work to heal the skin without harmful side effects. During an Ayurvedic facial, rather than feeling squeezed and poked, the person feels total relaxation and a profound sense of serenity. Natural scents of Ayurvedic herbs and plant essences reach the olfactory nerve and sedate the nervous system. Aromas of pure essential oils and raw natural ingredients are grounding and harmonizing. A typical Ayurvedic facial may include applications of chickpea flour, fennel, honey, turmeric, manjhista, nut oils and Sandalwood. One of the criteria in Ayurvedic skin care is that if you can’t eat it, you shouldn’t place it on your skin. Treatment Approach by Dosha To customize an effective approach per client, you must first identify which Dosha is out of balance. Here’s a quick reference for identifying key characteristics and imbalances that occur by Dosha, and the corresponding approach that will energetically bring each skin type back into harmony:
Ayurveda Guide
VATA SKIN (Ether + Air)
KAPHA SKIN (Earth + Water)
Thin, dry, rough, flaky, dull, and prone to dry patches from dead skin buildup. Complexion is usually colorless or whitish-greyish in color. Dryness tends to present itself everywhere, not just in a combination pattern. This skin type is most prone to dark circles, dry eczema and premature wrinkles and aging. Dry lips, brittle nails, dry scalp and dandruff are also indicative of Vata imbalance. The goal is to hydrate, moisturize, repair cellular damage and promote skin cell turnover. To this end, specialized Ayurvedic formulations might include a combination of highly regenerative oils and herbs like Foraha, Frankincense, Gotu Kola, Rose, Borage, Avocado, Evening Primrose, and Rosehip. One should incorporate more routine into daily life, hydrate regularly, consume plenty of omega-3 fatty acids and avoid dry foods.
Kapha skin is thick with oil everywhere (versus a combination pattern). Kapha skin tends to get congested, puffy and sluggish. The Kapha tendency is to hoard and accumulate. On the skin, this shows up as water retention, puffy eyes and cystic acne. To balance Kapha skin, use ingredients that detoxify, stimulate lymphatic flow, balance the sebum and eliminate toxic build-up. Ayurvedic formulations include herbal powders of Coriander, Manuka, Manjhista, Triphala, Lemongrass, Papaya Leaves, Juniper Berry, Camphor, Black Pepper and Neem. Kapha skin types should avoid dairy, eat spicy foods and use naturally astringent products and lighter oils.
PITTA SKIN (Fire + Water) Pitta skin is more oily in the T Zone area (typically dry elsewhere) and typically manifests as sensitive skin, prone to redness, rosacea, acne, inflammation, breakouts, rashes, itchiness, hives, moles and pigment discoloration. The Ayurvedic approach is to cool and soothe the skin, avoid unnecessary stimulation, and control the sebum aggravated by excessive heat in the body. Ingredients are anti-inflammatory and healing for sensitive and sunburned skin. Formulations contain Rose, Lavender, Chamomile, Neem, Calendula, Gotu Kola, Amla, Ashwaghanda, Cucumber, Aloe Vera and Coconut Oil, all of which are incredibly soothing for Pitta skin. Pitta types should stay out of direct sun, and avoid situations with excessive heat like hot yoga. They need to cool off regularly, drink coconut water and avoid salty, spicy and sour foods, which will only increase an already redhot fire constitution.
TRIDOSHIC Turmeric is a wonder ingredient used in Ayurvedic facial formulations and is beneficial for all three doshas. It is well known for its cleansing effect on the blood. Turmeric is commonly used in Ayurvedic lepas (facial masks and applications) to even out skin tone, detoxify
the skin, and provide a beautiful glowing complexion. Other tridoshic herbs for the skin include Neem, Manjhista, Gotu Kola, Saffron, Nettles, Chandan (Sandalwood) and Rose. With this unique Ayurvedic philosophy, we can develop a customized skin care approach to balance the Doshas, promote skin cell regeneration, assist in proper elimination of toxins and ultimately slow down the aging process. The result is beautiful, glowing skin that indicates a happy, healthy and fulfilled person. Annette Figueredo is an Ayurvedic Educator, Bodywork Trainer and a Product Trainer for Shankara Naturals. She is also a Naam Yoga Therapies Instructor, Prenatal Naam Yoga Instructor, Reiki Master and Harmonyum Energy Healing Practitioner. Her expertise includes Abhyanga Massage, Shirodhara Treatment, Ayurvedic Facials, Postpartum Massage and a variety of other Ayurvedic spa services and protocols.
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Beauty Through
Balance Understanding Doshas in the treatment room by Melanie Sachs
Around three thousand years ago, the greatest thinkers in one of the least studied ancient civilizations that occupied the Indus valley in the north west corner of the Indian continent were set the task of answering three questions. The question were something like this: • What keeps humans healthy and radiant? • What makes them feel the deepest indestructible joy? • What inspires them on the most profound level to discover their sacred purpose and contribute fully to society? As an answer to this question, they came up with the paradigm of the Doshas, a way of observing and working with our own true nature and the pulse of universal forces to produce beauty in all its forms through balance.
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Ayurveda Guide
Subtle Energies There are three Doshas, subtle forms of energy, and they are named Vata, Pitta and Kapha. Vata means, “that which moves and is enthusiastic.” Pitta means, “that which burns and transforms.” Kapha means, “that which embraces and holds together.” Every living thing has a unique combination of these three energies. Kapha gives our body shape and form, Pitta is in charge of metabolism, and Vata rules all movement. The three Doshas each have their own qualities, much like your astrological sign has certain characteristics. Their qualities come from the five elements, or panchamahabhutas: space, air, fire, water and earth. The Vata Dosha is a combination of qualities that are like space and air and its unique quality is dryness. The Pitta Dosha is a combination of qualities that are like fire and water and its unique quality is heat. The Kapha Dosha is a combination of earth and water and its unique quality is firmness or density. This means a Vata dominant body is going to be more dry. A Pitta dominant body is going to be hotter to the touch, and a Kapha dominant body will feel stronger and more dense.
Ayurvedic Esthetics Keep in mind, each of us is our own unique combination of these three Doshas or subtle energies. There is no one better combination than another. The goal is not to be more one Dosha than another, but rather to become familiar with your own unique Dosha combination, and to love it and learn how to keep it in balance. Those great thinkers from ancient India, the rishis, taught that we can each have our own brand of health, happiness and deep inspiration if we learn how to keep ourselves in balance. The approach of Ayurvedic Esthetics is to first inform and educate the client about their Dosha combination, and then teach ways to keep those Doshas in balance. We often use questionnaires to dis-
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cover which Dosha is dominant, then which one comes in second and third. Again, keep in mind we all have three Doshas, which determine not only how we look, but also how we act and even feel inside. But, we do tend to have two that play more strongly in our life and one of those two that is the boss. The following charts will give you more details about the characteristics of each of the Doshas. As you read through them, try to build a picture in your mind. You might find these descriptions remind you of certain clients, family members or friends. You might feel you can find something of everyone in each category. Both are true. We are all a unique blend of Doshas, but some of, us at least outwardly, show strong tendencies toward one.
Reading your client's Dosha blend is an art. Reading your client's Dosha blend is an art. Learn it with an open, tender heart and you will be surprised how easy it is to Ayurvedically read people.
Ayurveda Guide
VATA DOSHA
IN BALANCE
OUT OF BALANCE
BUILD AND PROPORTIONS
Slender, small and light boned, light musculature
Irregular proportions, noticeable joints, poor posture
MOVEMENT
Quick and light like a butterfly or bee
Twitchy, fidgety, unfocused
SPEECH
Talks emotionally about experiences, travels, dreams, feelings and sensations
Talk a lot and without deep thinking first, often talks to themselves
HANDS
Long fingers with cool hands
Weak hand shake, visible veins, cold, dry
NAILS
Drier, thinner nails
Hang nails, nails that break easily, bitten nails, white marks, ridged or bumpy nails
GENERAL FEATURES
Irregular and smaller
Uneven or anomalous
HAIR
Wiry and drier
Very dry, split ends, dry scalp, tangles easily, static
EYES
Lively, darting, interested, enquiring, darker colors
Blinks often or strongly, tired with dark rings, bluish whites, darker colors, short lashes and brows
MOUTH
Fine, delicate lips
Dry lips, irregular teeth, gum recession, uneven lips with pronounced lower lip
SKIN
Thin Few breakouts Not chemically sensitive Fresh and alive Fine pored Slightly dry Doesn’t blush easily Tans easily
Patches of very dry skin especially over the joints Corns and calluses Dandruff Psoriasis/dry eczema Poor tone Wrinkles early especially around eyes Dark circles under the eyes Prone to rashes from allergies
PERSONALITY & BEHAVIOR
Energetic Enthusiastic Open minded In tune and in touch Centered and at peace Creative Artistic Great at multi-tracking Even tempered Accommodating Inspirational Endlessly capable
Easily overwhelmed Unfocused Restless and unable to relax Stupidly impulsive Disorganized Confused and spacy Weak willed Fearful Flighty Over works Easy distracted Fights routine Dreamer Has poor follow through
Treating Vata Clients Those that are Vata Dosha dominant are the fairylike folks. Light and delicate like an autumn leaf, they blow through life sensitive to every mood and sensation. These are your habitually late clients, and even when they arrive, you need to set boundaries to get them into the room and settled. They have energy, but they spend it wildly and love the feeling of running on empty.
Adrenaline is their friend until they take themselves to deep exhaustion. Their bodies are very particular and do need tender care. Haters of routine, they need to be reminded to drink water when thirsty, eat when hungry and sleep when tired. It sounds so basic, but all three go out the window when Vata gets out of control. Vata dominant clients are sensitive to the cold and need consistent warmth in order to relax.
They are chatty, so encourage quiet. Both of you will be more balanced if you don’t get swept away by conversation. Your touch should be gentle and predictable. Your room filled with quiet music and as few outside noises as possible. Dominantly dry, these need warmth, calm and nourishment in all things. All treatments that are oily are magical, as are wraps and steams.
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Ayurveda Guide
Treating Pitta Clients Heads turn when a Pitta person walks into the room. They are confident, well dressed and colorful. They are well organized, detail oriented and squeaky clean. They tend to flush easily and sweat profusely, so be aware these folks need to chill to relax. They love the intensity of heat, but need a way to cool
off quickly. The rush of a cold plunge after a sauna is the Pitta way. If a treatment demands heat, have a mini fan, cool washcloth or cold drink near by to take the edge off. Pitta clients tend to quiz you, which can be intense. They are information seekers, so be ready with beautifully produced literature to provide the detailed information they
seek. Be firm and precise with your touch. Cover the eyes, as more Pitta makes you very light sensitive. Be on time, be professional and be the boss. They will love you for it. Cool, soothe and relax are the watch-words for Pitta people.
PITTA DOSHA
IN BALANCE
OUT OF BALANCE
BUILD AND PROPORTIONS
Medium, well balanced, athletic
Needs to have perfection
MOVEMENT
Good posture, commanding, self-assured, direct and self contained
Holds a lot of tension, braces muscles head to toe
SPEECH
Precise, well informed, good vocabulary, very clear and assertive
Can be sharp tongued or verbally cruel and asks very pointed questions
HANDS
Warm to the touch with a strong handshake that can be supportive and reassuring
Hot hands that sweat easily and have difficulty being tender
NAILS
Even and almond shaped Pink in color
Rubbery
GENERAL FEATURES
Strong, well balanced and/or chiseled
Very sharp or angular
HAIR
Lighter colors including blondes and redheads, Straighter
Grays and thins early Does not hold a curl
EYES
Sharp, bright, twinkling, engaging, magnetizing
Redness in the whites and easily inflamed Light sensitive
MOUTH
Even lips with consistent color
Cold sores, herpes, bleeding gums Yellow deposits on the tongue
SKIN
Average thickness Peaches and cream or coppery tones Lighter Delicate/freckled Oilier in “T”zone Warm to touch Dislikes oily products Blushes easily
Chemically sensitive Slightly sensitive skin – sun or soaps Broken capillaries Whiteheads Acne rosacea Burns easily Burning feet, scalp, eyes Dermatitis (eyebrows dry and flaky with redness) Burning eczema Hives/allergic reactions Wrinkles around the eyes especially Moles of many colors Changes in pigmentation Sallow – yellow or greenish tones Hives/allergic reactions
PERSONALITY & BEHAVIOR
Visionary Passionate Powerful Charismatic Warm Compassionate Natural leaders Ethical Joyful Sensual Disciplined Clear communicator Planner/Practical Loves a challenge Sets high standards Smart
Controlling Aggressive Irritable Agitated Prejudiced Proud Tight Sharp tongued/critical Overly intellectual Hot tempered Humorless Risk taker
Ayurveda Guide
KAPHA DOSHA
IN BALANCE
OUT OF BALANCE
BUILD AND PROPORTIONS
Strong, square or rounded, heavy boned, well proportioned
Prone to weight gain and heavy bused or barrel chested
MOVEMENT
Graceful, rolling, gentle, grounded
Never can be rushed or hurried
SPEECH
Soft, quiet, few words, from heart and the depths of their being
Silence maybe taken as disinterest, lack of appreciation or disapproval
HANDS
Strong, cool, square
Fleshy and moist
NAILS
Strong, square, even
Overly thick
GENERAL FEATURES
Larger, even, full features
Extra heavy
HAIR
Thick, heavy, plentiful
Dull oily, heavy on the body
EYES
Large, moist, like deep pools, tranquil, loving
Sticky or cloudy
MOUTH
Large, full lips, even teeth
Sticky at the corners, thicker saliva
SKIN
Thick Full Great tone Well hydrated Quickly oily after cleansing Strong Ages well Cool and moist Slightly oily skin
Excessively oily skin Black heads Enlarged pores Sweats easily Cystic acne Eruptions with itching and oozing Swollen ankles and feet Weight gain Cellulite Puffiness under the eyes Deep “bumps”, cysts Paler skin tone
PERSONALITY & BEHAVIOR
Stable/Grounded Confident/secure Consistent, Responsible Independent, Loves routine Homely, Sincere Patient, Nurturing Loyal, Real stamina Generous Loving, Loyal Patient, Honest Good with money Reliable, Stable
Very Conservative Lacking in creativity Resigned Stuck Clinging Possessive Silent Over emotional Lets things slide Carry too much responsibility Humorless
Treating Kapha Clients Kapha people are the curvy, cuddly and kind earth mother and father types. They live for comfort and are not easily excited. They are quiet to the point of silent and can be hard to read. Gentle stimulation is key, as they tend to be stagnant both physically and mentally. Lymphatic drainage is a great plan, as well and any treatments with wonderful aromas. Kapha people are scent sensitive. Loyal and generous, these clients are deeply moved by small kindnesses. More than others, they love to be remembered for birthdays. If you have your doubts about the Doshas, just know that people have been using them to customize their lifestyle choices for thousands of years. They could not be more time tested and customer approved. I know with a little practice, you will be able to read your clients like a book and perfectly customize treatments. Your clients will love the results and be fascinated to learn more.
Melanie Sachs, a certified Ayurvedic life counselor, healer and teacher, is sought after by some of the world’s leading spas and beauty schools. She has published Ayurvedic Beauty Care, and is recognized internationally for the application of Ayurveda to the beauty world.
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Ayurveda In The Spa Five treatments for balancing the Doshas
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by Carrie Borzillo
Sometimes to find something new, you need to search the past. Such is the case with the Ayurvedic practice of Dosha balancing, which has been around for 5,000 years and still leaves lasting impressions. In a continued effort to bring more specialized self-care to their clients, more spas are adding Dosha-specific treatments to their menus. Here are five unique ways to cater to the three types of Doshas: Vata (air), Pitta (fire and water), and Kapha (Earth and water).
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Ayurveda Guide
Dosha Balancing The Dosha Balancing (50-minutes, $149) offering at âme Spa & Wellness Collective at Turnberry Isle Miami is a classic Ayurvedic massage featuring oils customized to the client’s constitutional needs and elemental makeup. “It’s performed with warm herbal-infused Ayurvedic body oils. The Dosha –specific oils are chosen for your body type and prepared in traditional Ayurvedic methods through warming without losing the potent healing properties of the herbs. A warm herbal massage helps to detoxify and nourish the nervous system,” says lead massage therapist Albert Khersonskiy.
rose essential oils, are used to calm the nervous system, warm the body, nourish and hydrate dry skin. Pitta (Fire) is imbalanced when you experience irritability or hostility, skin rashes and sensitivity. A blend of rose, sandalwood, ylang ylang and jasmine are used to calm the mind, soothe the skin and cool fiery temperaments. Kapha (Earth/Water) is imbalanced when you experience lethargy, weight problems, water retention, excess congestion, acne or problem skin. Lavender, rosemary, peppermint, and basil help to stimulate and energize, as well decongest, purify and detoxify.
Khersonskiy explains how the three Doshas are treated differently:
Science and Soul Nirvana Wellness Analysis
Vata (Ether/Air) is imbalanced when you experience nervousness, anxiety, insomnia, dry skin and cold body temperatures. Herbs and essential oils, such as a blend of orange, geranium and 52
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Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club on the island of Ambergris Caye, Belize offers a Science and Soul Nirvana Wellness Analysis (6-hours, $595), which includes a custom yoga class to compliment the client's Ayurvedic Dosha,
four hours of spa treatments in alignment with the guests’ specific goals and needs, as well as lunch, snacks, and beverages. The Ayurvedic Bodywork offerings include marma balancing, massages (abhyanga), relaxation treatments (shirodhara), and body exfoliation (darshana). "Each client is given an in-depth consultation and evaluation to determine their unique breakdown and analysis (their individual Dosha type). Then the physical, emotional, mental and biological personalization is formed, known as Prakriti. Every person lives in a constant state of motion between balance and imbalance. The client is personally nurtured to bring all imbalances back into balance. Yoga asana, diet, lifestyle, home conditions, skin care, work, relationships, climate, among other things, are addressed," explains Paulette Gloria Harwood, Director of Science & Soul Wellness. The day's offerings are catered to the individual's specific Dosha. "The
Ayurveda Guide
best oils for Vata Dosha are sesame, almond, and avocado. They need heat, warm towels and slow steady smooth strokes with heavy amounts of oil. Footbaths are excellent for them, too, with ginger. They always have cold fingers and toes!" says Harwood. For the Pitta Dosha, cool, crisp towels are used because they tend to have sensitive skin and are prone to acne and rashes. "They need cooling, neutral oils with calming strokes. The best oils are sunflower, coconut, or ghee (clarified butter). Exfoliation must always be gentle. They benefit from deep tissue, but nothing aggravating to the skin. Honey and lavender are also wonderful for Pittas," she says. The best oils for the Kapha Dosha are mustard, flaxseed, corn, or safflower. As for the massage, "They need stimulation — deep tissue, reflexology, stretching, movement and exfoliation. They benefit from raw silk gloves massage and a lot of attention to the torso and back," she adds.
Ayurvedic Massage (Two Therapists) Robert Seibel, director of spa and retail at the spa at Two Bunch Palms in Desert Hot Springs, California, describes the Ayurvedic Massage with Two Therapists (60-minutes, $265) as “sensory overload.” And, that’s a good thing! “As the guest is feeling four hands on their body working in unison, they do not know who is starting were and when. This causes the mind to switch off and allow the guest to relax and allow the sensory feelings to take over,” he explains. The treatment starts with a basic questionnaire that will determine the client’s Dosha. The therapist will then choose the perfect essential oil for that specific Dosha. "For instance, we might use orange, geranium, and rose is used for Vata to calm the nervous system and assist in dryness and insomnia. For Pitta, we might use sandalwood, ylang ylang, and jasmine to calm the skin, balance
and cool. Peppermint, lavender, rosemary, and basil are good for Kapha to energize and help with weight control and water retention," explains Seibel. The massage technique for this treatment, though, works with all three Doshas to balance, stimulate, energize. Massaging in the lymph area helps to sedate the nervous system, and the method used, Two Bunch Palms, is highly synchronized and multi-tiered. “It’s a light, rhythmic synchronized massage that creates a sensory touch for the guest. The therapy starts off with a hold to ground, energize, and create a holding space for the guest. Breathing techniques are also performed during this time,” he explains. Then, the massage progresses to a light glide to encourage warmth in the body. “The massage is then picked up and a rolling massage is then applied to the muscles. Continuing onto sliding massage to stimulate the body. Finally, using knuckles in a rolling motion, the therapists will use this technique to calm and work into the muscle more,” he adds. The treatment also includes Chakra balancing from the root chakra to the crown chakra and finishes off with a light tapotement massage to refresh. Swedana Swedana (90-minutes, $245/120 minutes, $330) at Vida Spas, which has four locations in Vancouver and Whistler, Canada, caters more toward the client presenting a combination of two Dosha types. The spa included this service because, as spa owner and education director Colleen Fraser says, "A PittaVata or a Vata-Pitta combination is very common in our society today." The treatment includes an Ayurvedic massage with nourishing oil, followed by time in the cedar steam cabinet to eliminate toxins. "A dusting of organic barley flour and a dry brushing exfoliates and refreshes the skin to complete
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Ayurveda Guide Shirodhara
this treatment. Swedana aides the body, mind, and senses to bend and stretch while creating a deep process of detoxification by inducing sweat. It helps to calm the mind and alleviate muscular and joint pain," she says. Of course, it's highly customized to the specific Doshas. "Kapha predominant tendencies are heavy, slow or congested, so the Ayurvedic massage would be vigorous and stretching to mobilize joints would be emphasized. The steam is extremely effective to loosen congestion and mobilize toxins. The dry brush is firm and vigorous to increase movement and circulation of tissues with long and short stroke techniques," she says. Pitta predominant tendencies represents heat and all metabolic processes in the body, including inflammation to skin or other functions in the body. Symptoms such as irritability, frustration or impatience are indications of a Pitta imbalance. "The Ayurvedic full body massage has a lot of emphasis on the head, neck, scalp, and abdo-
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men — the areas are where metabolic heat can concentrate. We would use cooling essential oils like vetiver, mint, and lemongrass to cool and refresh the Pitta client, and the client would stay in the steam just long enough to break a sweat, while cold compresses would be applied to the forehead. Dry brushing is done with a mixture of strokes that are firm, gentle, fast, slow and long and short," she explains. Lastly, Vata predominant tendencies are cold, dry and nervous, so the massage would start with lots of movement and progress to slower and more rhythmic techniques to allow breathing patterns to resolve which induces a deeper sense of relaxation. “The steam is very beneficial because of the moist heat, this allows the oils to easily penetrate into the body which aides in calming the nervous system. The therapist pays special attention to keeping the Vata client warm with blankets and a mattress warmer, especially hands and feet. Dry brushing is done gently with long, slow rhythmic strokes,” she adds.
One of the most popular offerings on Vida Spa's vast treatment menu, which features seven Ayurvedic treatments and two Ayurvedic cleanse programs, is Shirodhara (90-minutes, $245/120-minutes, $330), a classic practice designed to awaken the senses and bring increased mental clarity. After an Ayurvedic massage, the therapist pours a steady stream of warm oil over the client's third eye. "'Shiro' means head and 'dhara' means stream of flow. Shirodhara is a steady stream of warm oil flowing over the crown of the head continuously for 15-20 minutes. It’s thought to be a pre-meditative technique to quiet the mind. When the oil nourishes the important nerves of the head, it settles all faculties of the brain and allows breathing to become full and relaxed," says Fraser. It's not necessary to cater this treatment to specific Doshas. "All Doshas benefit from the Shirodhara equally. We use a pure organic sesame seed oil with no added essences, which is good for all Doshas. The oil is revered in Ayurvedic practices as a neutral, safe oil for all Doshas and the skin absorbs this oil easily into the deeper tissue levels, particularly the nerves of the cranium," adds Fraser. Though this treatment is relaxing for all, Fraser says that it is especially beneficial to clients who suffer from headaches, head congestion, and difficulty sleeping or insomnia.
Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.
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Make It
Modern Ayurveda then and now with Melanie Sachs
Is the demand for Ayurvedic treatments growing? If yes, why?
Ayurveda has some great treatments and answers that do just that.
In 2015, Ayurveda was named as one of the top spa trends. I think there are more serious spas in Europe adopting Ayurvedic approaches and more treatment centers in India becoming more resort-like and westerner friendly. Here in the U.S., I feel gratified that Ayurveda has gone beyond being a fad and is now represented in advanced level esthetic textbooks and is part of the standard curriculum in some states. I believe people are desperately searching for simple things they can do everyday that make a difference in their energy level and ability to multitask.
How have your methodologies and techniques evolved over the years? The treatment methods I teach are mostly very traditional, so I try to honor that. When I started, both products and equipment were hard to find and now there are many more good choices. One huge change is how oil has transitioned from the biggest no-no in skin care to the most hip ingredient. Organic and natural approaches have become well accepted as a sane choice for our health and that of our planet.
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Ayurveda Guide Have client concerns and treatment needs changed since you started your practice? In Ayurvedic terms, I feel people are more Vata than ever before. Meaning, our pace of life is faster. We are exposed to huge amounts of advertising; our small devices distract us more. People have less time to eat, sleep or play together. Now more than ever, both relaxation and time for self-care has become a survival skill rather than a luxury. We need treatments that help us slow down, focus gently and nourish deeply so we don’t burn ourselves out. How does today’s society, with all its technological advances, benefit from ancient practices like Ayurveda? Ayurveda means the study of longevity – the ability to preserve our life force and thrive. Its simple recommendations have never been more relevant, as most of us barely go outside in a day, let alone connect with the restorative qualities nature has to offer. Spa therapies with natural ingredients help us connect and revive. One of the beauties of Ayurvedic treatments is that they are so deeply effective and very low tech. Neither the equipment, nor products, are expensive. Treatments you receive in a spa can be replicated at home, too. The benefits of rubbing organic sesame oil head-to-toe and relaxing in a warm bath are dramatic and so simple. Ayurveda is a great reminder that all things natural give life – organic food, fresh air, gentle exercise, deep rest. They are the essential balance to a life full of electrical buzz and speedy travel.
Ayurveda For New Clients Are most of your clients familiar with Ayurveda before coming to you? It thrills me that people in the spa industry no longer say, “Are you what?” 58
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They know the word “Ayurveda” even if they only have the briefest understanding of all it includes. Many clients have had Ayurvedic treatments at holiday resorts or in India. I think the popularity of yoga has helped too. Many yoga teacher programs teach a bit of Ayurveda now. How do you introduce Ayurveda to new clients? My clients are usually asking me for the treatments or asking for more lifestyle advice because they have found us online and are curious. For those just asking for help in general, I tend to avoid using any foreign words like Ayurveda, Dosha, Dinacharya, etc. I read their body type and then ask if a particular treatment appeals or makes sense. The same goes for lifestyle advice. Ayurveda is very practical in that way. Given time out, we do know what
feels good and what will work for us. We just need that space and a little nudge in the right direction. Are clients hesitant to take a more holistic approach? I feel there are two main directions that esthetics is travelling in at this time. One is the more technological and chemical, and the other is more natural and organic. Ayurveda deeply believes in different strokes for different folks, so long as a treatment causes no harm. There will always be those that are looking for a quick fix who neither have the time or inclination to embrace a more holistic approach. For those that do try it, they still should be encouraged to be discerning and supported to find the balance that works for them personally. Results are empowering.
Ayurveda Guide
havior and lifestyle needs. The treatments are a delight to give, not physically taxing and have results like none other as they truly do what they are designed to do- that is balance the body, mind and spirit. How can spa therapists incorporate Ayurveda into their own practices? I think the three Ayurvedic treatments that are learned as signature type treatments should be: 1. Full body oil massage, called Abhyanga, which is sometimes followed by a dusting with ubtan (herbal exfoliation powder) and/or steam 2. Shirodhara, which is the pouring of warm oil on the middle of the forehead 3. Kansa wand touch using a variety of sizes of bronze bowl shapes and tools for face and full body.
Estheticians are using Ayurvedic lifestyle suggestions to better care for themselves. Expand Your Own Practice Why should practioners study Ayurveda? It is a wonderfully fascinating paradigm that helps you understand, honor and better meet your clients skin, body, be-
Some people use marma, vital energy points in their facials, others use Ayurvedic herbal oils. There are spas that are designed to look and feel like India and others where the approach is invisible in that they just use an understanding of body type to better serve their clients needs. And, very importantly, estheticians are using Ayurvedic lifestyle suggestions to better care for themselves so they can keep doing the work they love joyfully and with more energy. Can Ayurvedic treatments be combined with more modern therapies?
peel or skin resurfacing. Marma point face massage is long term rejuvenating, but it will move Botox out of the body fastest, so that is not a good match. Gentle marma work is great after cosmetic surgery to reenergize tissue and speed deeper healing. We would have to look at each therapy separately, so both yes and no. Do Ayurvedic therapies have contraindications? Yes, they do, but no more than other spa treatments. Nothing, no matter how natural, is good for everyone all the time in any conditions. Clients can have allergies to the simplest and purest ingredient, too. I had one very healthy young client break out in hives head to toe after a sesame oil massage followed by a dusting with chickpea flour, two products that people are rarely troubled by. Shirodhara does lower blood pressure, great for some, but not for those with very low blood pressure already. Hot steams can work wonders, but should be used with caution if a client has heart problems. We tend to forget that all spa treatments can have deep effects, and so contraindications should be honored at all times. Many thanks for this interview and for dedicating this whole issue to something that saved my life and has been the inspiration behind my whole life’s work, Ayurveda.
Melanie Sachs, a certified Ayurvedic life counselor, healer and teacher, is sought after by some of the world’s leading spas and beauty schools. She has published
For the body, Ayurvedic oils cannot be substituted by lotions. But, just as you might adopt an Ayurvedic lifestyle after a life saving surgery, you could use Ayurvedic products after a chemical
Ayurvedic Beauty Care, and is recognized internationally for the application of Ayurveda to the beauty world.
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Going
Green Reduce your spa’s environmental footprint with these eco-friendly tips! by Cathlene Bates
Whether your spa focuses on cutting edge medical treatments or has a holistic approach, incorporating eco-friendly, sustainable practices and policies is easy, rewarding and good business. Members of the spa industry are positioned to play important roles as environmental ambassadors, teachers and leaders to the millions of guests that frequent spas yearly.
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organic & wellness Going Green
The Big Business of Being Green Being green and eco-friendly has grown into big business with big profits. It’s no secret that people are looking for products and services that are healthier and environmentally responsible. It’s for that reason many companies overinflate their products’ “greenness.” After all, what company wouldn’t want in on that kind of green? We’re all familiar with the terms green and eco-friendly, but what do those terms mean and how do they apply to the spa industry? There is no single answer or industry specific standard with criteria that certifies a “Green Spa.” Instead, there are several different organizations with their own standards and criteria. Spas need to choose which one they want to be certified by, and clients need to know what the different certifications mean. This makes it hard for both spas and guests alike. How do you convey to your clients that 66
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you care about their well-being and our planet? How can your clients compare your spa with competitors to be sure it embraces their values?
Actions Speak Louder than Logos and Seals Logos, seals and certifications are not enough. Assure guests that your spa cares about people and the planet by its actions. The more visibly and transparently your spa practices green behavior and demonstrates it cares about the health and wellness of its guests and staff, the less you need to prove it.
Choosing the Right Sustainable Green Path Your spa can start small and build sustainability practices over time or build them into design from the beginning. Green ideology can vary from meeting all the requirements of LEED Certification with energy efficient construction, to getting certified as a Green
Spa, to using and offering organic spa products with eco-friendly protocols. Progress, not perfection, is the goal. Every effort made is a step toward a greener, more sustainable future.
For Larger Spas The Green Globe Standard is recognized internationally by green tourism and travel industry leaders as the highest level of sustainability performance certification. Together with the British International Spa Association (BISA), Green Globe developed the "Essential Spa Standards" (ESS), which are now part of the worldwide Green Globe set of criteria. Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED), is recognized internationally as a green building certification program. The program outlines ways to identify, design and implement green sustainable building construction and maintenance. There are four levels of certification: Certified,
organic & wellness Going Green
Silver, Gold and Platinum. Out of a possible 110 credits awarded, spas need to receive a minimum of 40 credits and satisfy all LEED fundamentals to get a LEED certification.
For All Spas The Green Spa Network (GSN) is a nonprofit trade association. Its members are creating a vital community of likeminded spa and wellness companies inspiring each other to create a more sustainable future by taking action. Together with Green America, GSN has customized a version of GreenGain for the spa industry called the The Sustainability Assessment Tool(SAT). It’s an online tool for members of the GSN that evaluates the environmental and social performance of a green spa.
Go Green Today Reduce your spa’s carbon footprint with energy-efficient appliances, and use solar energy to heat water. Choose ecofriendly or sustainable building materi-
als such as low VOC paints and bamboo or cork flooring. Install occupant sensor light switches and dimmers, LED, CFL and halogen light bulbs, unobtrusive light fixtures that preserve nocturnal views and minimize light pollution, and take advantage of natural lighting. Improve indoor air quality by incorporating living plants in your interior design. Avoid candles with artificial fragrances. Have staff avoid wearing perfume, cologne or aftershave. Support your local community and reduce your carbon footprint by purchasing products from local suppliers. Choose locally grown produce for refreshments and make reference to their source on menus and refreshment name cards. Offer clients fair trade organic teas, juices, and shade grown coffees, unbleached sugar and stevia. Serve vegetarian refreshments. Implement water conservation policies and design protocols that require less water and laundering. Install faucet aerators, low-flow toilets and
shower heads that conserve water. Protect against water pollution by using unbleached, non-chlorine paper products. (Bleached paper products require a large amount of energy to produce and contain toxic chemicals that pollute the environment.) Use soaps and detergents that do not contain phosphates. (Algae grow unhindered in water that contains high levels of phosphates which pollute rivers and lakes.) Reduce single use plastic by offering water, other drinks, and refreshments in drinking glasses, mugs, plates and utensils made of glass, ceramic, stainless steel or bamboo. Choose wooden stirrers, paper or stainless straws and paper bags. Avoid single service packaging for treatment products and all other. (Chemicals such as Bisphenol-A (BPA), Phthalates, and Styrene leach out of plastic and contaminate our environment and the products they contain. These harmful chemicals are known carcinogens, hormone disrupters, and estrogen mimickers and are affecting us on a cellular level.) Evoke a health-first policy that benefits employees as well as guests. Therapists touch products all day long, absorbing them through their skin. The long-term cumulative effect of toxic chemicals are unknown. Avoid using products that contain harmful ingredients such as parabens, petrochemicals, nanoparticles, formaldehyde, BPA, toluene and dibutyl phthalate, artificial coloring and fragrances. Instead, use organic, environmentally friendly products for your treatments and cleaning. Educate yourself and your staff on the health risks of these harmful ingredients. Avoiding harmful ingredients is both socially and environmentally responsible. Recycle Provide clearly labeled recycling containers that make it easy for your staff and guests. Precycle. Reduce waste by considering the packaging before LNEonline.com
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organic & wellness Going Green you purchase items. Choose minimal plastic-free packaging, refillable and recyclable toner, soy ink cartridges, rechargeable batteries, and printing paper made from recycled material. Offer organic products for sale in your retail section. Use natural fiber linens and donate your old linens to an animal shelter or other non-profit organization.
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Choose USDA certified organic Not all organic products are created equal. Just because a product con-
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tains organic ingredients doesn’t make it organic. State your Sustainability Goals and Environmental Policy on your website Tell the story behind why you have chosen a certain initiative. Look at ways to incorporate your environmental and social efforts into your spa menu and promotional pieces both in print and online. Do your due diligence Take the time to look over your supplier labels and websites, verify their
certifications, look up their seals and logos to see what they stand for and if they are real. Due to growing green profits and the lack of a national standard determining if a product is green, “greenwashing� is on the rise. There are seals and logos everywhere for every organization and cause. Are they all real? Unfortunately, no. They are easy to falsify and are rarely verified. Rule of thumb, consider the source: if the information is coming from the manufacture or company itself, it may by self-serving. Educate your staff and ensure the information being passed on is correct and consistent. Your clients deserve to have the information you are passing on to be the truth. Brainstorm with your staff to find ways your spa can implement green practices. We all have different things we are socially or environmentally passionate about. Empower your staff and turn their passion into action. Involving them in the process and making it a team effort creates a culture where employees feel supported and encouraged to take care of themselves and promotes a healthy spa atmosphere. Although doing the right thing is rewarding in itself, your green effort will also make good business sense. Luckily, being green is one of the times it pays to do the right thing.
Cathlene Bates is the Founder and CEO of Conscious Choice, a luxury brand of certified organic, cruelty-free skin and body care products packaged completely in non plastic. Her innovatively packaged retail product line along with accompanying backbar products with eco-friendly protocols are redefining being green.
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Neem Skin Care A natural antibacterial plant with deep roots in holistic skin care by Aurora Solis
Azadirachta indica, commonly known as neem, nimtree or Indian lilac, is a tree renowned in the skin care world for its antimicrobial properties. Having deep roots in the Ayurvedic tradition, this plant is native to the Indian subcontinent. It typically grows in tropical and semi-tropical climates and produces fruit and seeds that offer neem oil. Clear some room in your garden and on your shelf for this Ayurveda superstar for clean, organic antibacterial skin care! Deep Roots Neem has been cherished by the Ayurvedic tradition for over 2,000 years. One of the most versatile plants in the Indian tradition, neem is a common medicinal plant in Ayurveda and Indian medicine. Every part of the tree is of value to an Ayurvedic practitioner, from the stems to the leaves. Believed to have positive effects on the GI tract, respiratory system, and circulatory, neem oil is used in Ayurveda to boost immunity and support natural cleansing of the body's various channels. Neem leaf – treats skin ailments such as dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis Neem bark – calms excess pitta with its bitter taste Neem fruit and seeds – used to make neem oil Neem twig – used as a breath freshener and for oral health Neem oil – helps treat topical skin ailments and other skin issues
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organic & wellness Neem Skin Care
Traditionally, Ayurvedic neem oil is prepared by boiling neem leaves with a base oil and water. This preparation yields a safe concentration of neem that can be used for medicinal purposes. Some preparations use sesame oil, for example, another popular and versatile Ayurvedic oil. Ayurvedic benefits of neem oil include: • cooling and soothing excess pitta • healthy skin rejuvenation • boosts immunity Neem is known in traditional Sanskrit as "Arishtha," or "reliever of sickness." It balances high pitta as well as high Kapha. Be careful when incorporating neem product with high Vatta clients, as neem oil can aggravate this Dosha. Neem can be applied to the hair and scalp, as well as the palms of the hands and soles of the feet for best absorption and cleansing. Neem Today Much scientific research has been conducted on this amazing plant. It may not come as a surprise to those with an Ayurvedic background, but scientists have been able to identify over 100 compounds as part of the neem tree. Many of these chemical compounds are of therapeutic concentrations. Such therapies include treatment of joint and the immune system and support of healthy skin. Neem is mainly recognized in modern skin care for its antibacterial properties. The leaves of this Indian tree are shown to be antifungal and have antiviral properties. One study showed that extracts of need showed antibacterial against several strains of bacteria, including S. mutans, E. faecalis, and S. aureus. Need stick proved to have the highest antimicrobial abilities. Its bac-
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teria-killing properties make it popular in natural oral hygiene products. When it comes to treating the skin natural, neem oil serves as a great tool when dealing with skin conditions such as acne, pigmentation, eczema, and rashes. Neem leaves can be used as a face pack to treat many of these conditions. Neem is also high in vitamin E, making sure it doesn't over dry the skin. For acne relief, neem leaves steeped in water can be used as a facial tonic to reduce surface oil and bacteria. This neem toner helps to clear acne breakouts, which can lead to pigmentation if left untreated.
Growing Neem The best way to acquire neem oil and neem leaves is to grow a neem tree. Many local nurseries and supermarkets have neem plants for sale. Neem tablets, supplements, and oral care products can be found at your local Ayurvedic treatment center. Keep in mind that there is no specific dosing recommendation for neem, so talk to a healthcare provider before ingesting or recommending ingested neem to clients. Contraindications
Neem for Body Aches Neem has been used in Ayurveda for centuries to treat musculoskeletal issues such as tight joints, arthritic joints, and body aches. Neem contains antiinflammatory properties and can reduce swellings and pain in joints. A massage with neem oil is a common practice in more traditional treatments of arthritis. Drinking neem leaf tea is also common practice for Ayurvedic treatments. Try adding neem oil to your massage lotions and creams for an anti-inflammatory component when working on clients with swollen joints, muscle soreness or tired feet.
As with all natural and organic substances, neem is not regulated by the FDA. Educate yourself on the potency of this natural ingredient. Take care in using neem oil with clients of different Dosha combinations. Neem oil or other derivatives of the neem tree should not be used on clients who are pregnant or are expecting to become pregnant. Neem should not be ingested by those on blood sugar medication, those with autoimmune disease, or by women who are breastfeeding. Neem oil should also be avoided by children, as its therapeutic nature has not been studied in children.
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Eve Taylor
Resurgence Revitalizing Elixir Gel
Re-awaken your radiance! Replace the trace elements of moisture and proteins into the skin, which are lost daily from normal activities. Environmental stressors such as weather changes, air quality, office lighting, and hormonal changes, to dust, pollen, and food intake rob the skin of its valuable nutrients. Revitalizing Elixir has a unique blend of mineral rich components for the skin to stay radiant and healthy, while keeping its youthful elasticity.
Restelle Body Wash draws upon the success of Eve Taylor’s ever popular Anti-Stress Body Massage Oil. The brand has now extended this by specially formulating the 'anti-stress blend' into a body wash option for you and your clients to enjoy.
Our body washes leave the skin super clean and moisturized, and may be used in both the shower or bath. Simply dispense into the hands, foam with water and cleanse the body, alternatively dispense on to a dampened washcloth, exfoliating cloth or sponge. Follow with chosen Spa Body Serum and Spa Body Moisturizer.
800.461.3745 evetaylornorthamerica.com
501.253.2635 firstimpressionswellnessspa.com
CBD Body Cream
This award winning body cream by Cannasieur Brands is formulated to enhance muscle recovery and relieve joint pain. Emollient organic shea butter infused with premium CBD helps reduce inflammation assiociated with arthritis, fibromyalgia, tendonitis and psoriasis.
424.253.2208 cannaisseurbrands.com
ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS
A socially conscious, vegan, cruelty-free and organic skin care brand made-up of exotic bath and body products. All products within the line are hand-packed by Sri Lankan women in impoverished areas, being their ancient and natural beauty regimens serve as the inspiration for all formulations.
Organic & WellnessNews
LILI Aromatherapy
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One Of A Kind Brows
with Lucy Rodriguez, Miami, FL
SERVICE & RETAIL What is the best part about working with brow services in the spa industry? Hands down it's establishing the connections that I get with my clients. And creatively expressing myself through the art of brow shaping. When did you decide to specialize in eyebrow shaping? When I was in my early 20's, I worked for a spa doing facials and they were big on brows. And that’s when I fell in love with the service of brow shaping. No matter how old or young, brows are something that everyone will notice. And knowing that I can make someone feel confident and good makes it even more exciting for me. 74
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What approaches did you take to perfect your craft? Practice, practice, practice! Listen to what the client wants and hear their goals. There's always a story behind someone’s brows. You want to give them a style that will make them feel comfortable and confidant. Also, a shape that will fit their lifestyle, too. What is the most difficult part about offering brow services? When someone comes in with a picture of a famous person or a brow from social media, it’s impossible. They might not have the same features as that person does or same brow hair texture. I believe in bringing out their own natural beauty and showing that their brows are just as beautiful as what they see on social media or on TV.
INSIDER TIPS
WORK AREA What prompted you to choose the size/design for your studio? I was looking for a studio that brought in a lot of natural light, and a place where people can feel comfortable and converse with each other. I really love to make it a place where as you walk in, you can feel the positive energy in the studio. I also wanted to show women’s empowerment in the studio with art work and Macramé all made by local woman. Do you tweak the area for specifics events or promotions? Yes! I'm actually planning an event now where we will be having some Ayurveda and some mindfulness talk. Also, we will be doing readings with an essential oil mixology bar! I feel with events like these, we can bring our sisters together, be there for one another and create a positive and non-judgmental environment where we as women are be able to feel free to open up to one another.
SOLO PRACTITIONER Why did you decide to work as a solo brow artist? I wanted people to know who they were going to see when they came to my studio. I also wanted to establish a connection with my clients. I think it is important to have that when it comes to something as important as your brows. I also felt that being a solo artist, you get to be free with your art and that's something that I am now able to express in my studio.
ing into my office able to see all my accomplishments that I have made through the years. It's crazy that we naturally go day-to-day and never notice how far we have come along. And being your own boss, you grow every day.
MARKETING
What trends are you currently seeing in the industry? I'm loving the natural brows! I'm really excited that everyone is jumping on this. I have been pushing this look for a while now. I'm seeing less dark, over filled brows and more feathered natural brows using a tinted brow gel or just a clear brow gel to keep brows in place.
How do you promote your services? Most of my work is spread through word of mouth. I do have my social media that I promote through and I have Yelp. How do you use social media/email platforms for promotion? On my social media, I post before and after photos. I promote my Brow Oil that I created in 2015. I also use my emails to updated clients on what the monthly schedule is looking like. Once in a while, I do promotions to keep things fun and exciting.
Do you have rituals or methods of creating positive energy for your studio? Absolutely! Every week, I do a sage cleanse to the studio. I bring in fresh flowers and an oil blend that I diffuse daily that is made locally just for the studio. The oil blend is Neroli, Spikenard, Lavender and Rose.
What advice would you pass along to other spa owners or those thinking or just starting to offer these specific services in their spa? Don’t worry about what others are doing. This is an art. Everyone has a different style and something different to offer. Your clients will fall in love with you and what you bring out of them. There is no competition. If we work together, then we all will grow together.
What are the benefits of being your own boss? The biggest benefit is expressing your art with out any boundaries. I love comLNEonline.com
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au naturel Makeup artist Pamela Taylor blends a palette of natural color Makeup Artist & Creative Director: Pamela Photographed by: Brinsley Edwards Lighting Assistant: James Conkle
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Taylor
Rooted Beet juice is blended into a carrier oil, then applied as a lip and cheek tint
Pitaya Pink a sweet stain of pink tints the lip, eyes are brightened in powdered quartz shadow. Model: Eise Reid 78
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Annatto shimmer stains the mouth. Skin is perfected in custom mixed mineral makeup Model: Claudia Todman July2018 79
Pamela Taylor is a NY based MU artist. Known for her Hydration Technique, she is a creator and innovator of current makeup trends and techniques.
Berry blends Pure blackberry stains the lips- a mix of mica and berry are blended and applied to the lids- brows are lifted and polished with bees wax. 80
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COLORCOATED
The ColorCoated ‘wedding proof’ mascara by Susan Posnick Cosmetics contains their exclusive fortifying complex, with peptides and extracts that strengthen the hair follicles nourishing the lash encouraging healthy, thicker lashes. The combination of carnauba and beeswax promote and maintain the length, separation and curl of the lashes, while natural iron oxides coat the lashes for a rich black color.
214.747.2111 susanposnick.com
One-Two Peptide Punch
The Eye & Lip Cream by Le Miuex is a pearlescent, dual-function treatment with oleo-microcapsule technology locks in moisture. Very dry, sensitive skin drinks in this intensely nourishing treatment for firmer, smoother, plumper skin around the eyes and lips. Features acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramides, green tea extract, and kukui nut oil for powerful wrinkle therapy.
855.409.7546 californiaskincaresupply.com
And The Award Goes To…
For the fourth year in a row, the most awarded lash company in the world has received the Better Business Bureau’s Winner of Distinction Award. NovaLash CEO Sophy Merszei articulated her excitement, “We are thrilled to win this prestigious award for the fourth year in a row. Quality does not just happen. It is the result of thoughtful ongoing concern, sincere effort and skillful execution of a talented team. I am very proud of my team at NovaLash.”
713.520.5848 novalash.com LNEonline.com
MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS
M.A.D. Skincare’s Lavish Lips is a collection of fifteen creamy lip sticks with Triple Firming Action for rejuvenation, long-lasting moisture and wrinkle prevention. Lavish Lips are rich and provide a lush, plumping-look with a high-pigment finish. Lavish Lips are formulated with Palmitoyl Tripepride-1 for a plumping effect. This unique, anti-aging peptide does not irritate the lips for plumping but helps increase the moisture content leaving wrinkles on the lips looking smooth and fuller while addressing lip concerns.
Image
Mad for Makeup!
888.327.8188 lemieuxcosmetics.com
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Reader Service No.
Page Number
84...............Altair Instruments.................................................altairinstruments.com.................................................. 243 36..............Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics...............beauinstitute.com........................................................ 167 6,7..............Bio-Therapeutic....................................................bio-therapeutic.com.................................................... 139 18...............Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc...................................dr-jeff.com................................................................... 248 2,3..............Eminence Organic Skin Care................................eminenceorganics.com............................................... 157 83...............Equipro USA.........................................................equipro-bty.com.......................................................... 242 11...............G.M. Collin Skin Care...........................................gmcollin.com............................................................... 115 68...............Gold Cosmetics....................................................goldcosmetics.com..................................................... 350 55...............Grandelash MD.....................................................grandelashmd.com..................................................... 286 4,5..............The HydraFacial Company...................................hydrafacial.com........................................................... 201 31...............Industry Cosmetics...............................................gomyskin.com............................................................. 330 20,21..........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Long Beach............Longbeach.skincareshows.com 62,63..........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Miami............Miami.skincareshows.com 9.................Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics.....ladyburd.com.............................................................. 119 37...............Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research..............lucrece.com................................................................. 263 69...............Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................rejuvilab.com............................................................... 149
*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
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No worries! Our equipment does the job.
@equipro_bty
Proudly made in The USA and CANADA For your nearest distributor or for a brochure, call this toll-free number 1-877-324-2226 Visit us at the Long Beach Congress Booths 235, 237, 334, 336 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242 on reader service card
keep your skin in its prime!
No matter what age you are, how you take care of your skin, makes all the difference. It's time to upgrade from a shower and a shave. Keep your skin in its prime with regular exfoliation treatments for your face and body. Invest in you, treat yourself with DiamondTome.
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