skin|winter itch
Soybean, rice bran, palm and sesame oils have great lipid profiles.
extracts of brown seaweed, marshmallow and sea whip are recognized for their anti-inflammatory properties. Look to incorporate these ingredients into skin care programs to beat winter itch. Advise your clients to stay warm and hydrated as they enjoy the holidays. n References 1. Taylor and Machado-Moreir, Regional variations in transepidermal water loss, eccrine sweat gland density, sweat secretion rates and electrolyte composition in resting and exercising humans. Extreme Physiology & Medicine, 2013, 2:41997. 2. Park DH, Hwang JW, Jang KS, Han DG, Ahn KY. Mapping of the human body skin with laser Doppler flowmetry. Ann Plast Surg. Dec; 39(6):597-60 3. Kai H. Hänel 1, Christian Cornelissen 1,2, Bernhard Lüscher 1,†,* and Jens Malte Baron Cytokines and the Skin Barrier. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2013, 14, 6720-6745 4. Harder, J.; Schröder, J.-M.; Gläser, R. The skin surface as antimicrobial barrier: Present concepts and future outlooks. Exp. Dermatol. 2013, 22, 1–5. 5. Hamid, Q.; Boguniewicz, M.; Leung, D.Y. Differential in situ cytokine gene expression in acute versus chronic atopic dermatitis. J. Clin. Invest. 1994, 94, 870–876. 6. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2001 Apr; 23(2):121-6. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00061.x. Skin surface patterns of xerotic legs: The flexural and accretive types. Piérard-Franchimont C, Petit L, Piérard GE. 7. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2003 Aug;25(4):157-67. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00175.x. The cornified cell envelope: An important marker of stratum corneum maturation in healthy and dry skin. Harding CR, Long S, Richardson J, Rogers J, Zhang Z, Bush A, Rawlings AV.
Michael Q. Pugliese is the CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese and the Circadia Institute of Advanced Esthetics. Pugliese and his grandfather, Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., hold in-depth classes on a variety of subjects, including cosmetic chemistry and histology of the skin. Pugliese is a licensed esthetician in the state of Pennsylvania, and holds a degree in business management and marketing from Kutztown University. Page 24 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • November 2013
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Lactic acid can be used in the treatment room as a keratolytic agent to remove excessive cellular accumulation in the stratum corneum. It also effectively stimulates glycosaminoglycans, or natural moisturizing factors in the skin. However, caution should be used with frequency and percentage. High levels of alpha hydroxy acids can also aggravate winter itch. Soybean, rice bran, palm and sesame oils have great lipid profiles. Each has inherent anti-aging properties, including the presence of collagenase-fighting peptides and tocotrienols, a special form of vitamin E obtained primarily from natural sources. DelisensTM, a commercial peptide, can help control itch by maintaining pH levels in the various layers of the epidermis by reducing the presence of interleukins 6 and 8. DiffuporineTM is a peptide recognized for helping to increase aquaporin channels, organelles that are critical in regulating water diffusion across the epidermal cell membrane. Botanical