Contributed by Judith Butler
Take a Trip to Bielersee
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A short train or car ride from Switzerland’s largest cities takes you to a medium-sized lake with a super-sized natural playground.
t’s a gem called Bielersee, or Lac du Bienne. Depending on your interests, you’ll want to spend a day, a weekend or your whole vacation. Situated at the foot of the Jura in the canton of Berne, Bielersee is the most northerly of the three connecting lakes comprising the Drei-Seeland region of Neuchâtel, Murten and Biel/Bienne. The vibrant city of Biel/Bienne, known as the hub of watchmaking, lies at the top end of the lake at the junction with the Aare River. As Switzerland’s largest bi-lingual city, it has a unique cultural identity evident in its jewel of an old town. At the other end of the lake lies St Peter’s Island, a narrow peninsula stretching far into the lake from the ancient town of Erlach. Take a look. To get oriented, take the short funicular ride from Biel up to Magglingen, where you will be treated to a stunning view of the lake and the Aare River, with the peaks of the Bernese Oberland as a backdrop. Take a hike. One of many popular hikes is from Magglingen to the Twannbach Gorge. The 10-kilometre trail takes you through shady woods and meadows and past waterfalls, before its descent. The panoramic view at the exit of the gorge is your just reward.
View of Biel from Magglingen
Take a tent. The campsites along the shores of the lake have modern facilities, docks and family-friendly beaches. They connect easily to cycling and inline skating routes. Take a bike. It’s possible to cycle the perimeter of the lake in one day if you’re in a hurry, but linger if you have time. The paths are mainly flat, with lots of scope for picnic stops. For one with a view, climb to the castle in Erlach, stopping halfway up at the sign “point de vue” by the old bake oven. For one with charm, stop in the tiny fortified old town of Le Landeron, with its benches on the shady boulevard that runs down the centre. Take a taste. The wine-growing region of Bielersee is centred on the north slopes around Twann, with walking trails high above the lake connecting the vineyards. Over 250 wines are produced in these ancient calcareous soils, including Pinot noir, Pinot gris, Sauvignon blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Blanc de noirs and Chardonnay. Tastings are possible yearround, but September is the busiest month for wine festivals, with at least one celebration every weekend somewhere along the north shore. Take a boat. A variety of boats ply the lake, stopping at various points of interest, with some continuing on to the other two lakes. You can take your bike, use your half-tax discount and even arrange land transfers to the wine region. Take a detour. A favourite spot for cycling, walking, swimming and birdwatching, St. Peter’s Island is a long finger of land connected to Erlach. Now a protected nature reserve, it was an island formed in the last Ice Age, and became a peninsula after an engineering project in the 19th century lowered the water
View of St Peter’s Island from the vineyards
levels of all three lakes to reclaim land. The first inhabitants were Cluny monks who built their monastery there in 1127, but perhaps the most famous visitor was Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who lived there for a few months in 1765 and declared it “the happiest time of my life”. You can see his quarters in what is now Hotel Restaurant St. Peters Insel. Take a shot. Be warned, your camera will go wild as you travel around Bielersee. Don’t miss the photo opportunities at every corner: the colourful outdoor cafes and alleyways of La Neuveville, the myriad beaches and bays, the vineyards stretching fingerlike down to the lake, and the distant mountains rising through the clouds. Take it further. If you’ve fallen in love with Bielersee, continue the romance by exploring the other two lakes in the Seeland region. Lake Murten and Lake Neuchâtel each have their own delights and they certainly won’t disappoint. www.biel-seeland.ch www.bielersee.ch Judith Butler has recently retired as a music teacher at the International School Basel, completing a career that began in her native Canada. Switzerland has been the perfect place to indulge her passions for cycling, painting, photography, writing and punctuality.
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