City&Shore Nov2012

Page 120

wine

spirits

PILGRIM SPIRITS

There’s more than one wine to serve with a traditional Thanksgiving feast. BY BOB HOSMON If you plan to serve traditional turkey with all the fixings this Thanksgiving and want to include wine as a part of the feast, it’s virtually impossible to pick one wine that can complement the assortment of flavors on the table. You’ve got white and dark meat of turkey and sage dressing. Then there’s sweet potato casserole, mashed potatoes with gravy, green bean casserole, cranberry sauce, and, for the finale, pumpkin and/or pecan pie. But not to worry. You can make this happen. Rather than selecting just one wine for the meal, give your family and friends a choice of two or three different wines. That will let everyone at the table have the option of trying each wine and discovering which one they like best. When I’ve done this, I’ve found it adds a fun entertainment factor to the Thanksgiving meal experience. After all, this is a celebration. Riesling and Gewürztraminer are two favorite whites I like with turkey fare. They’re slightly, but only slightly, sweet, easy to like, and capable of complementing much of the meal, especially the turkey, the sweet potatoes, and the sage dressing. While some of the best Rieslings and Gewürztraminers are produced, respectively, in Germany and Alsace, I prefer serving American wines for this all-American holiday. Among Rieslings, I particularly like those made in Washington State by Chateau Ste. Michelle (their “Eroica” Riesling is outstanding), Pacific Rim, Poet’s Leap and Columbia Crest. The Dr. Konstantin Frank Gewürztraminer from the New York Finger Lakes district is a winner, as are the Gewürztraminerss made in California by Adler Fels, Thomas Fogarty, Chateau St. Jean and Fetzer. (Two useful bits of information: Gewürztraminer is pronounced guh VURTS trah MEE nur, and the wine is great with turkey sandwiches.) There are three styles of red wine that also deserve to be invited to your Thanksgiving table: Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel. Pinot Noir is a very popular wine (I’ve never known anyone who didn’t like a good pinot), and several California wineries do a bang-up job with the grape, including Donum, En Route, Patz & Hall, Sea Smoke, Gary Farrell, Etude, Russian Hill,

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En Route, Lynnar Estate and La Follette, whose 2009 Manchester Ridge Pinot won Best of Show at this year’s American Fine Wine Competition, judged in Boca Raton. Some are pricey — but worth it — so let your budget determine your choice. Syrah (it’s called “Shiraz” in Australia) is a more affordable red, but it doesn’t get the attention it deserves from the American consumer. It’s an ideal wine to serve with rich, hearty food — like much of what’s served at Thanksgiving. Particular favorites include those made by Beckmen, Rosenblum and Ridge. If you haven’t enjoyed any of these, do yourself a favor and try them; you’ll like what you taste. As for Zinfandel, I can’t imagine a Thanksgiving dinner without it. It’s so unique to America that it should be wrapped in stars and stripes. And it’s a red that can be served with barbecue, pizza, red meats — and Thanksgiving foods. It’s rich in flavor yet, when well-made, never harsh on the palate. Some well-made zins that will never let you down include those produced by St. Francis, Dry Creek, Chateau Potelle, Quivera and Rancho Zabaco. Ravenswood makes several different zins that are offered in a range of prices, but you’ll never go wrong no matter which Ravenswood you choose. I’m particularly partial to their “old vine” Zinfandels. I’m also partial to Ficklin Port, a Californiamade port wine that’s been produced in Madera for 50 years. And I can’t think of a better way to end a perfect Thanksgiving meal than sitting in an easy chair with a glass of Ficklin and a bowl of roasted pecans. Now that’s what I call a reason to give thanks. ●


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