Shane Dorian
Rusty Long
Nathan Fletcher
Alex Martins
Mark Healey
Peter Mel
Greg Long
Ryan Seelbach
Widely considered the best big-wave surfer in the world, he’s proven it beyond a doubt by spearheading the paddle-in movement at Peahi (“Jaws”) on Maui. Until recently, even the hard-core locals felt the place was suited only for tow surfing. Thanks to Dorian, Danilo Couto and an ever-growing crew featuring several young Maui surfers, an old-school movement is in full force. Dorian’s surfing earned him the Billabong 2011 Monster Paddle Award at Jaws, and he was nominated again last winter. Now we’re about to see him in his first Mavericks contest, although he has already approached legendary status in Half Moon Bay. Although there wasn’t a contest last winter, Jeff Clark gathered some local insiders to examine video footage and hand out the first annual Mavericks Awards. From a single session on Feb. 8, Dorian walked away with Barrel of the Year, Bomb of the Year, and Performance of the Year.
No visiting surfer has a more intense relationship with Mavericks than Fletcher, the man who discovered Sion Milosky’s lifeless body floating in the water in March 2011 during a ground-breaking session in wave faces up to 50 feet. The two Hawaii-based surfers were close friends and traveling partners, and Milosky’s death left Fletcher badly shaken. The youngest son in the noted Fletcher family from Southern California, Nathan shied away from surfing in his youth, only to emerge as a stunningly talented, fearless rider. He’s been a Mavericks standout on huge days, including the storied November 2008 swell described as the best ever for paddle-in conditions. And he was the star of last year’s Billabong Awards, winning Overall Performance as well as Monster Tube and Ride of the Year for a wave at Teahupo’o (Tahiti) many have called the heaviest they’ve ever seen. “He has a natural talent that exceeds any of the top guys,” claims Twiggy Baker. And Hawaiian underground standout Dustin Barca says Fletcher is “my favorite person to watch surf. (He) dances to his own beat. Nobody even sees half the crazy shit he does.” Yet another reason why this year’s field is considered the strongest ever. A living legend in Hawaii for his big-wave surfing and free-diving expeditions — along with a generous, humble nature — Healey has made a lasting commitment to Mavericks. “A true waterman,” says Greg Long. “He has taken some of the heaviest floggings and ridden some of the most terrifying waves in the past few years.” Healey won the Monster Tube award in the 2009 Billabong contest, at a mysto spot identified only as “the Pacific Northwest.” As Dorian put it, “I honestly think Healey is mentally prepared to paddle into waves that no one wants.” Even more impressively, he’s doing it backside. “I feel like I’ve got a lot to learn at Mavericks,” he says. “Even though I’ve been going there for three or four years, it’s a new relationship. I don’t feel like I’ve got it figured out.” Coming from Healey, that’s a strong statement. This is a man who seeks out deep-water Hawaiian diving locations to swim alongside and actually ride great white sharks.
You saw his stoic countenance as one of the featured surfers in “Chasing Mavericks,” and no one was more deserving of the role. This Southern California-based surfer has racked up a staggering list of big-wave accomplishments. At Mavericks, he finished second in the 2005 event and took first prize in 2008, memorably sharing his winnings with the other five surfers from the final. In December 2007, he surfed a single swell in Hawaii, Northern California and Todos Santos (Mexico) over the course of 72 hours, a feat of titanic endurance. In December 2009, he became the first Californian to win the prestigious Eddie Aikau contest, held in all-time conditions at Waimea Bay. He has won Billabong Awards for Biggest Wave (Dungeons, South Africa, 2006), Biggest Paddle-In (Todos Santos, 2008), Best Overall Performance (2007-08 winter) and Ride of the Year (Dungeons, 2009). Just this year, he won the Nike-sponsored Wave of the Summer Award for a giant right at Puerto Escondido, Mexico — and he gave his acceptance speech in Spanish. That’s typical of the studious, soft-spoken Long, respected as much for his spot-on surf forecasting as his performances.
It’s not easy being Greg Long’s brother, especially if you want to ride big waves, but Rusty pulls it off with aplomb. His low-key approach has kept him somewhat off the radar. He isn’t quite as well traveled as Greg, but he is widely recognized as a major player in any conditions. Rusty was nominated for the 2007 XXL Ride of the Year for a wave he scored at Puerto Escondido — and he was paddlesurfing that day, while most everyone else was towing. When it comes to Mavericks, “My relationship with the wave has been a good one over the years,” he says. “I always try to be tactical and pick off waves that I will really remember. I listen to my instincts about when to surf there too. Some days I don’t feel it, some days I really do.” He was definitely feeling it on the day of the 2010 contest, boldly pulling into the barrel of a 50-foot face during the early morning free-surf. That unforgettable sight, as much as anything, earned him a spot in this year’s event. He is also an alternate on the Eddie Aikau list in Hawaii.
Originally from Brazil, Martins moved to Northern California and established residence near Ocean Beach so he could surf that punishing San Francisco beach break with regularity. But that was just the start. Graduating to the Mavericks contest, Martins has become one of the most dedicated, respected surfers in the lineup. He had three separate photographs nominated for the 2009 Billabong Monster Paddle Award, all from a November session at Mavericks. And he drew a similar nomination in 2010 for a wave at the Mavericks contest, in which he reached the semifinals.
He had to be amused after this year’s paddle-in ceremony when he learned that Healey, Collins and iconic Kelly Slater, among others, would be in his heat. This Santa Cruz veteran was considered the most talented, influential Mavericks surfer for nearly a decade, but the contest title always eluded him. And his quest won’t be getting any easier. Mel did break through with his first big-wave contest victory in August 2011 at Pico Alto, Peru, on the Big Wave World Tour. He gave credit to his Santa Cruz mentor, the legendary Richard Schmidt, “who came to Peru in the early ‘80s and told me about this great big wave. I have dreamed about surfing Pico Alto. I feel really proud to have won here.” Mel helped launch the Northern California tow-in movement and ranks with Schmidt as one of the most well-known Northern California surfers in Hawaiian events (especially the Aikau contest) over the years. He got some nice props with a primary role in “Chasing Mavericks.” When it comes to this contest, however, it’s all about unfinished business. If for nothing beyond his peace of mind, Mel covets this trophy.
Out of San Francisco, where he hones his bigwater skills at the challenging Ocean Beach, Seelbach is no stranger to Mavericks chaos. He managed to advance out of his first heat in the 2005 contest despite having to retrieve his lost board from the distant lagoon. He missed much of the ’06 winter after breaking his foot during a tow-in session. But he has become a highly esteemed regular, reaching the semifinals five years ago and again in 2010, and he was a standout during the epic December 2007 tow-in sessions that marked some of the biggest waves ever ridden at Mavericks. He ranks right near the top of all entrants when it comes to high-performance surfing in waves of all sizes.