Watch Journal March 2015 by Watch Journal

Volume 18, N 2

All Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Good in Time

March 2015

Watch Journal Featuring: The Louis Moinet 20 Second Tempograph

The Explorer Issue

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$10 USD

04 >

Also: Around the World Yacht Racing. Making Watches for the Movies. Understanding the Benefits of Ceramic. Advancements in Diver Watches. Seeking the Ends of the Earth with Mike Horn.

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dressage l´heure masquée hermès imbues time with a resolutely hedonistic touch by providing a space of infinite freedom. the dressage l’heure masquée watch keeps the hours hand hidden beneath the minutes hand, making its appearance only with a deliberate press on the crown-integrated pushbutton. the fleeting apparition of the playful hand vanishes as soon as the pressure is released. this delightful great escape from daily routine is entirely conceived and constructed by the manufacture hermès, and orchestrated by the self-winding h1925 movement, equipped with an exclusive patented mechanism.

hermès. time reinvented.

1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com

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United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812 International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, info@louismoinet.com 182_ADS.indd 2

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www.louismoinet.com 182_ADS.indd 3

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For men who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need GPS to know where they stand.

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Saxon One It’s the rough edges that testify real character. The Saxon One lends this conviction a new form: elegant, dynamic, distinctive. And created with exactly that perfection which made the predicate “Made in Glashütte” world-famous. Obtain your free catalogue: info@tutimausa.com. Saxon One · sweep minute stop chronograph · 6420-04 · US $6,700

MADE FOR THOSE WHO DO.

TO OBTAIN FURTHER INFORMATION IN NORTH AMERICA, PLEASE CONTACT Tutima USA, Inc. • 1-TUTIMA-USA-1 • info@tutimausa.com • www.tutima.com

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(10041 )

Watch Journal Magazine, August 2014

The glasshütte observatory home of wempe’s Superlative chronometer

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WJ30_W

The Wempe Chronometerwerke Glashütte i/SA – Tourbillon Precision – made in germany

The world’s only officially certified Chronometer Tourbillon, handcrafted in Glashütte, the German center for fine watchmaking. Tested in accordance with the DIN standard, with twin-barrel movement, 40 hour power reserve in platinum. Limited to 25 pieces worldwide.

11:52 AM

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800.395.4306

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents DEPARTMENTS 14 Masthead

CONTENTS

16 Editor’s Letter 18 Publisher’s Letter 20 Chart 22 Intelligence 48 Happenings 66 Profile Mike Horn, Ben Saunders, Charley Boorman 74 Collector Michael Shvo, Julien Bigen, Peter Stas 80 Play Midnight Rambler at The Joule 81 Stay

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Mondrian London 82 Getaway Cheval Blanc Randheli 84 Necessities

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Trim 9,25 inch

Trim 11.75 inch

Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase Crafted for New Heights The Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase features the moonphase complication in the spirit of traditional ﬁne watchmaking. Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case the self-winding Calibre MB 29.14 indicates the Moonphase in crescent shaped aperture and makes this reﬁned timepiece a true lifetime companion. Visit and shop montblanc.com

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents FEATURES 100 Louis Moinet

CONTENTS

Reinventing History: Introducing the new 20 Second Tempograph. 108 Anchors Aweigh IWC and Volvo send a fleet of yachts on a full-globe lap. 114 Mastering the Depths The history and mechanics of diving watches. 118 Big Screen TImemachines Timepieces crafted for and featured in Hollywood films. 122 Manufacture: TAG Heuer Pushing durability to the very limit at TAG Heuer. 128 Substance: Chanel The surprising strength of ceramic. 132 Style Go deep down with the best and newest diving watches.

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144 Legacy: Piaget Making movements is a time honored tradition at Piaget. 149 The Guide Watch terminology, top retailers in the country, horological humor.

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Watch Journal

MASTHEAD

Chief Creative Officer Marc Lotenberg SALES AND MARKETING

EDITORIAL

Founding Publisher Glen B. Bowen

Editor in Chief Hyla Bauer

Advertising Directors Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo

Creative Direction NoĂŤ & Associates International Editor Keith W. Strandberg

Marketing Manager Hayley Merrill OPERATIONS

Assistant Editors Roxy Kirshenbaum Hally Wolhandler

Controller Miles Bingham

Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon

Executive Coordinator Laurie Sadove

Contributing Writers Carol Besler David Schmidt

WATCH JOURNAL LLC

Editor at Large Spencer Bailey

Board of Directors Adam Sandow & Eric Crown

Contributing Editor Justin Min

Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg

Digital Imaging Ned Robertson Editorial Interns Zoe Bodzas Julia Lu Emily Manchester Christopher Malone

ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE Watch Journal, LLC 601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507 New York, NY 10001 info@watchjournal.com ONLINE

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#watchjournal watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournal SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15 / International: $30 Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99 ISSN N 2325-4130 Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal, LLC. Copyright 2014, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal. Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com.

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Freak Cruiser Flying Carrousel-Tourbillon. 7-Day power reserve. Manual winding manufacture movement. Patented ÂŤ Dual Ulysse Âť escapement in silicium. Available in 18 ct white or rose gold. For a catalog, call 561-988-8600 or U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

International Editor’s Letter

Going to Extremes

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

EDITOR’S LET TER

Creating Timepieces for Explorers Has Been a Unique Challenge for Watchmakers for Centuries. We don’t usually equate fine timepieces with exploration, but the history of the watch industry shows us that the early watchmakers were actually brave souls who traveled all around the world to spread the watch word. Men like Éduoard Bovet, who went from tiny Fleurier in the Swiss Jura mountains all the way to China to sell his family’s timepieces—and he was so successful that the word “Bovet” in Chinese actually once meant “time.” And there was Heinrich Moser, who left the Swiss German village of Schaffhausen to go to Russia, dominating that market and making his fortune. On the store side, Carl F. Bucherer of the Bucherer retail empire went to Latin America, opening up in country after country, and watchmakers like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier and Patek Philippe made the USA one of their earliest international markets. Because Switzerland is a relatively small country, the Swiss have a tradition of international travel. Even the custodian in my little village of Pomy, which has more cows than people, spent several years backpacking throughought Asia. Watches have taken me all over the world, as well. I grew up in Toledo, Ohio, and most of my American friends and classmates haven’t ventured far beyond the borders of the USA. Since becoming involved in the watch industry, I have traveled to China, Russia, the Middle East, Egypt, Africa and even ended up living in Switzerland. I wouldn’t consider myself an explorer, but I have seen a great deal of the world. And everywhere I go, I am greeted by friendly faces. I recently went to Zimbabwe for a motorcycle/watch adventure and when I got off the plane, I saw advertisements for watches all over the airport—Vacheron Constantin, Officine Panerai and Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomed me as I walked through the Victoria Falls Airport. From the birth of watchmaking up to the present day, watchmakers have consistently been creating watches for travelers and pioneers, pushing the limits of development to solve the unique problems facing these intrepid souls. Accurate timekeeping is a prerequisite for explorers and travelers. Companies like Panerai, Kobold, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre and others have worked long and hard to make timepieces tough enough to withstand the conditions these world travelers put themselves in, wherever they may be on the planet. Thank goodness for explorers and the watch companies that are brave enough to push the limits of what is possible. — Keith W. Strandberg International Editor

“The history of the watch industry shows us that the early watchmakers were actually brave souls who traveled all around the world to spread the watch word.” 16

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Publisher’s Letter

Legacy and Modernity

GL EN B . B OW EN

PUBLISHER’S LET TER

We’re Working Hard to Serve You Better. Since our founding in 1997, Watch Journal has established an ongoing legacy of producing the definitive American magazine covering fine timepieces. We are proud and honored to serve this community of luxury wristwatch aficionados, collectors and industry executives with the high quality reporting and original editorials they have come to know and expect over the years. Recently, Watch Journal moved its headquarters to New York City, where the magazine continues to evolve and grow. Our contributors based in Geneva and around the world are working with newly appointed editor in chief Hyla Bauer, who will oversee all editorial aspects of our award-winning magazine. Hyla brings with her a wealth of experience in the publishing and watchmaking fields: Her career spans two decades as an editor at Condé Nast publications, and she has also worked within the luxury watch industry at one of the top watch brands. As you may have noticed, Watch Journal has recently undergone a complete redesign and we are giving our readers a sleek contemporary look combined with broader editorial coverage. Our focus remains on luxury timepieces, and we are now able to provide even more timely news as we have increased our frequency from six to nine issues per year. Additionally, we’ve dramatically increased the magazine’s distribution through hundreds of top watch retailers, creating a coast-to-coast network of places where Watch Journal can be found and read. This, of course, is in addition to our continuing distribution to loyal subscribers and through popular newsstands. Furthermore, the magazine continues to be the one and only watch publication distributed through more than 200 of the nation’s busiest private jet airports. Another new initiative for the brand is our collector dinner series hosted by Watch Journal, inviting its VIP guests to engage with high-level watch brand executives. The first in the series, Whiskey and Watches, was an extraordinary evening co-hosted by Glenlivet at the Lamb’s Club in New York City. By the time this issue arrives in homes, on newsstands and in private airports across the country, the Watch Journal team will be traveling to Basel, Switzerland to attend the 97th annual Baselworld trade fair. Baselworld houses nearly 2,100 exhibitors specializing in watches, jewelry and gemstones from more than 45 countries, and attracts more than 122,000 visitors from around the globe—that’s more than twice the population of Monaco. Our team will meet with top watch brand executives to preview watch novelties for the coming year and report on the new timepieces and trends in our print editions, as well as through our new social media platforms. We’re working hard to continue to build your trust and interest in our magazine, and we always value your feedback, comments and questions. We’re available by email at info@watchjournal.com. Enjoy! —Glen B. Bowen Founding Publisher

“Baselworld attracts more than 122,000 visitors from around the globe—that’s nearly triple the population of Monaco.’’ 18

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CHART

WA T C H J O U R N A L

The Baselworld show welcomed 122,000 attendees in 2014.

SOURCE: Financial Times

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CHART

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more than the population of Monaco, Lichtenstein, and Saint Martin combined. Saint Martin

~ 37,429

Lichtenstein

~ 36,925

Monaco

~ 37,831

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INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

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INTELLIGENCE

ABOVE: Ulrich Wohn, President and CEO of LVMH Watch and Jewelry North America introduces the program

LEFT: Philippe Bonay, President of Jaeger-LeCoultre North America, and Jean-Luc Faure BELOW LEFT: Guests take a sample test.

TESTING THE EXPERTS

On January 9, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie introduced its new HH Certification in New York City. The HH Certification will be the first of its kind, and will verify an individualâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s level of fine watchmaking knowledge. Previously, there was no standard by which to certify the knowledge and expertise of watch sales and retail professionals. This certification will prove to be an invaluable assurance for watch industry employers, as well as for industry professionals. Undoubtedly, people with a passion for fine watchmaking will also be interested in becoming certified. The new certification was conceptualized and executed by the FHH in Switzerland, where it assembled a committee of 15 specialists who, in the process of creating the exam, approved a database of 2,500 questions. A team of evaluation methodology experts were also gathered to design the test. The exam will be conducted at official test-taking centers, but preparation materials for those interested in being certified are available online. Depending on the score received, those taking the exam can be certified as either Advisors, Specialists or Experts in Fine Watchmaking. The first exams will be given in the US this spring. hhcertification.org 23

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INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

COMING TO THE USA Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ă&#x2030;cole Van Cleef & Arpels, founded in Paris in 2012, was created with the purpose of offering an opportunity to learn about the savoir-faire, the history and culture behind jewelry and watchmaking that would generally not be available to the public. This summer, from the fourth until the eighth of June, the school will be traveling to the United States to the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York City. The school will be offering 12 innovative classes, and sessions will be organized into

small groups of 12 for an intimate, handson experience. The curriculum incorporates three educational pillars including SavoirFaire, The Universe of Gemstones and the History of Art. The course will also host a series of evening conversations that will incorporate cross-disciplinary panels of experts and opinion leaders to discuss the relationship between jewelry, culture and art. Family workshops will also be available. lecolevancleefarpels.com

ABOVE AND RIGHT: Workshops in the school's permanent location onthe Place Vendome in Paris

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INTELLIGENCE

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INTELLIGENCE

VEGAS, BABY Audemars Piguet recently opened the doors to its new boutique in Las Vegas, bringing in a very special watch for the occasion: the Royal Oak Offshore Titanium Tourbillon Chronograph. When the brand first introduced the Royal Oak more than 20 years ago, it almost immediately became an iconic pillar of the legendary Swiss manufacture. The Royal Oak Offshore Titanium Tourbillon Chronograph is a limited edition of 30 pieces, and features a hand-wound mechanical chronograph, titanium case, a black ceramic bezel and is water resistant to 100 meters. The new Vegas boutique—the brand’s third in the United States—is divided into two spaces; The Manufacture features a watchmaking corner and elegant product displays, while The House is a bar and lounge where clients can relax in comfort. audemarspiguet.com

BELOW: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Titanium Tourbillon Chronograph RIGHT: The new boutique in Las Vegas

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INTELLIGENCE

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ABOVE : The Gucci Extra Large Automatic Diver in rose gold. RIGHT: The Gucci Extra Large Automatic Diver in stainless steel.

DIVING STYLE Gucci has added to its offerings of mechanical timepieces with the Gucci Extra Large Automatic Diver. The watch adheres to strict diver timepiece characteristics, featuring a unidirectional rotating bezel to accurately measure the time remaining in the dive, and is available in stainless steel or a limited edition of 93 pieces in rose gold. Both versions come with two interchangeable straps: rubber for active sports and black crocodile. The self-winding movement, made by Sowind, has a power reserve of 46 hours, and its oscillating weight is decorated with the signature Gucci diamond pattern. The dial showcases the hour, minute and date display together with a power reserve indicator at 5 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock and small seconds at 9 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. The 45mm timepiece is water-resistant to 300 meters. gucci.com

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Instrumento N°Uno N E W Y O R K B O U T I Q U E , 8 2 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K , N Y, ( 2 1 2 ) 4 3 9 - 4 2 2 0 B A L H A R B O U R B O U T I Q U E , 9 7 0 0 C O L L I N S AV E N U E , B A L H A R B O U R , F L , ( 3 0 5 ) 8 6 5 - 8 7 6 5

ABU DHABI

•

BAL HARBOUR

NEW YORK

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COURCHEVEL

PA R I S

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DUBAI

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PORTO CERVO

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G E N E VA ROME

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G S TA A D

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K U WA I T

ST BARTHELEMY

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LONDON

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MOSCOW

ST MORITZ

www•degrisogono•com

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

(SO)WIND UP Kering recently announced the appointment of Antonio Calce as chief executive officer of Sowind Group. In his new role, the Italian national will supervise the management of Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard, which are both parts of the Sowind Group, as well as the group’s manufacturing activities. Calce will report to Albert Bensoussan, CEO of Kering’s Luxury Watches and Jewelry division. “I am delighted to welcome Antonio at Sowind and within the Kering group. His extensive experience in the Haute Horlogerie and in the luxury watches sector and his deep knowledge of its industrial and commercial stakes will allow him to fully support the brands’ growth on international markets,” Bensoussan shared in a statement. kering.com

BELOW: Antonio Calice RIGHT: The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Seconde and Date

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

DOUBLE BARRELLED Blancpainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic Villeret collection welcomes a new member to its family, the Grand Date complication. This is the first time that Blancpain has offered the grand date complication in the Villeret line, and the result provides easy legibility with the same level of elegance. To restrain the size of the movementâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s profile, Blancpain designined an automatic movement with two mainspring barrels, and added a shock-resistant date mechanism. The Villeret Grand Date retains signature Villeret elements including its red gold 40mm double pomme case, opaline dial with applied Roman numerals, red gold hands and a clear sapphire caseback, allowing a view of its honeycomb-pattern oscillating weight. blancpain.com

BELOW AND RIGHT: The Blancpain Villeret Grand Date

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Vanguard Collection

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212.463.8898 WWW.FRANCKMULLER.COM

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INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

COMING TO AMERICA Roger Dubuisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; quest for excellence in watchmaking was matched by the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appointment of Jorge Puentes as the new brand president of Roger Dubuis North America and Mexico. Having recently served as the the CEO and president of Montblanc in Japan, Mr. Puentes has more than 30 years of experience in the watchmaking industry and more than 20 years within the Richemont group. His extensive experience in Latin America, the Caribbean and Mexico includes founding the Cartier Training School in Mexico and strengthening the distribution network in wholesale and retail as managing director for Montblanc in Mexico. Mr. Puentes is also fluent in English, French, Portuguese, German and his native Spanish. rogerdubuis.com

ABOVE: The Roger Dubuis Excaliber Flying Tourbillon RIGHT: Jorge Puentes

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CHALLENGE

SEA-LINER

212.463.8898 WWW.CVSTOS.COM

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

MOON TIME F.P. Journe recently debuted the newest addition to its Octa collection, the Nouvelle Octa Lune. The watch features an elegant 18-karat gold two-dial design, enabling an easier reading of the time and date than in previous models. The first dial, off-center, has been enlarged with embossed hour numbers while the second dial features a large date in an aperture at 11 o’clock, a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and a moon phase at 8 o’clock. The Nouvelle Octa Lune’s automatic movement is winded unidirectionally, with a power reserve of up to 160 hours, while the power reserve indicator is scaled to 120 hours to show the ideal and efficient functioning hours. This elegantly crafted timepiece is available in both 40mm and 42mm case sizes. fpjourne.com

RIGHT: The F. P. Journe Nuvelle Octo Lune

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NOT ONLY M I NE BUT A PAR T OF ME F V E VO S 18 “ C o b r a ” Su sp e nde d Sk e l e t o n FRANC VILA manufactured calibre FV18 Limited edition to 88 pieces

www.francvila.com / info@francvila.com BOUTIQUE: 6, Grand Rue, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41 22 317 07 27 AGENT FOR USA: ENVOY TRADING LLC - Tel: 301-402-1530 - FV-USA@francvila.com

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INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

ABOVE: The HYT H1 Sand Barth has two different strap options: black leather or white rubber

PARADISE FOUND HYT recently released a conceptually whimsical watch that allows the owner to take a memory of his vacation with him everywhere: the H1 Sand Barth. Named for the paradisiacal Caribbean territory of St. BarthĂŠlemy, and released in a limited edition of 25 pieces, each of the H1 watches has a sprinkling of a few grains of sand from the French islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stunning Anse du Gouverneur beach embedded into its case. At 48.8mm wide, the case is made of polyepoxide resin, which is seven times lighter than stainless steel and four times lighter than titanium and allows for the inclusion of the sand. The watch features a titanium crown guard, cambered sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and is water resistant to 30 meters. Its mechanical hand-wound movement has a power reserve of 65 hours. hytwatches.com

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UTC

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Satellite time in just 3 se cond s in a ny time zone on ea rth Ec o -D rive SATELLITE WAVE F 90 0

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

BRIGHT FUTURE When Devon Works exploded onto the watch scene four years ago, the brand relied on efficient management to become the internationally known company it is today. Scott Devon, founder and creative director, recently welcomed two new executive additions to the brand's growing team, global President Ronald Jackson and chief operating officer John Stecco. Jackson, as global president, will focus on sales and marketing activities throughout the world, while Stecco will focus on streamlining production, supply chain logistics, and organization of cross discipline business groups and strategic objectives. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Having joined Scott in 2010 as a consultant for the launch of Devon, I am thrilled to be with him full time, dedicated to the vision and goals we share for his brand,â&#x20AC;? Jackson says. devonworks.com

ABOVE LEFT: John Stecco ABOVE RIGHT: Ronald Jackson BELOW: Assembling at the Devon manufacture

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Orville Wright taking first flight with brother Wilbur running alongside at Kitty Hawk, North Carolina, 17 December 1903. Image credit: WSU/planepix.com

A feW SeleCt peOple HAve beeN gIveN pArt Of tHe WOrlD’S fIrSt AIrCrAft. preSIDeNtS, AStrONAUtS AND ANyONe WItH A bremONt WrIgHt flyer. the bremont Wright flyer is a tribute to the Wright brothers’ famous aircraft. It’s remarkable to look at. but what makes it even more remarkable is that it features actual material from that very first aircraft. the watch also features another first: our first proprietary movement, the bWC/01. the Wright flyer is available now in a limited edition. but it’s unlikely to be available for long.

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INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

ABOVE: The Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Retrograde 7097

A NEW TRADITION Ten years ago, Breguet started its Tradition collection with a watch that showed the mechanisms of the movement on top of the baseplate: the 7027. This year, the brand is launching a new timepiece in the iconic collection: the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097. A new retrograde seconds hand gives the watch its name, with the indication housed in a circular-brushed semicircle at 10 o’clock. The pare-chute, a Breguet invention that protects the balance staff from shocks, is located at 4 o’clock, creating a balanced symmetry on the dial. The 40mm case is made of 18-karat white gold and is fitted with a sapphire-crystal caseback.The dial is silvered and engine-turned by hand, with Breguet’s signature blued-steel opentipped hands adding a distinctive look. breguet.com

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INTELLIGENCE

RIGHT: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Big Date and Power Reserve

BIG POWER Baume & Mercier’s new addition the Clifton collection, the Big Date and Power Reserve, is a classic piece with a streamlined, no-frills dial that was inspired by a 1950s model in the Baume & Mercier museum collection. The big date display features the date, shown in an aperture at 12 o’clock, and a power-reserve indicator at 6 o’clock. The watch’s 43mm stainless-steel case is polished and satin-finished, and contains a mechanical self-winding caliber. The oscillating weight is engraved with the Greek letter “Phi,” the brand’s logo and the symbol of the divine proportion, which is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. The timeless refinement of this new piece is compounded by its square-scale brown alligator strap, which features a triple-folding buckle for added security. baume-et-mercier.com

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ÂŠ2014 SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION

THE PURE ESSENTIALS OF WATCHMAKING, ELEVATED TO THE LEVEL OF ART.

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11/02/2015 21:58

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

THE ULTIMATE TWEET

ABOVE: The Jacquet Droz Bird Repeater Geneve

The new Bird Repeater Geneve by Jaquet Droz pays homage to Geneva, the place where Pierre Jaquet-Droz opened his third workshop in 1784. The watch intricately combines the precious symbols of the Swiss city in a high complication piece. A miniature Lake Geneva with its famous Jet d’Eau fountain, Le Phâre des Paquis lighthouse and a silhouette of the Sèleve, the pre-Alpine peak considered the city’s “balcony,” have all been painstakingly engraved, enameled and painted onto the dial. The Bird Repeater Geneva comprises eight carefully crafted animations, including birds feeding their fledglings, spreading their wings, flowing water and a hatching egg all honoring the renowned humanoid automata created by Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his son in the 18th century. The watch has an RMA88 automatic winding movement and boasts a 48-hour reserve. jacquet-droz.com

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SNOW FUN

HAPPENINGS

Piaget sponsored the United States Polo Association’s 2014 World Snow Polo Championship in Aspen, Colorado. Team Piaget emerged victorious after two days of intense competition. Player Jeff Hall scored the winning goal in the last 60 seconds of the match, leading his side to victory over the USPA team. “We are proud to return to Aspen, the only place in the US where snow polo is played, and are especially thrilled to have won the championship,” said Larry Boland, president of Piaget North America. During the awards ceremony, Boland presented the winning team with a silver trophy cup accented with deer antlers. Piaget’s association with polo began in the 1970s, during which time Yves Piaget became an avid supporter of the sport. piaget.com

LEFT: The Piaget Polo FortyFive chronograph in titanium and steel FAR LEFT: In action on the snow-covered field

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HAPPENINGS

THEY WEAR IT WELL At the 72nd Golden Globe Awards in Los Angeles on January 11, British actors Colin Firth and Eddie Redmayne chose to sport Chopard watches. Colin Firth, one of the evening’s award presenters, wore the brand’s L.U.C XPS watch in 18-karat white gold with a black dial and a black leather strap. Eddie Redmayne, who won the Golden Globe for Best Performance by an Actor in a Motion Picture Drama for “The Theory of Everything” that night, chose to wear the Chopard Classic Manufacture watch in rose gold. Jessica Chastain, nominee for best supporting actress in a motion picture for her role in “A Most Violent Year,” wore Piaget Limelight Couture Précieuse earrings in 18-karat white gold and the Piaget Limelight Exceptional cuff watch in 18-karat white gold featuring 74 brilliant-cut diamonds and 233 square-cut diamonds. chopard.com piaget.com

ABOVE, TOP TO BOTTOM: The Chopard Classic Manufacture watch The Piaget Limelight Cuff watch NEAR RIGHT AND OPPOSITE: Eddie Redmayne and Jessica Chastain at the Golden Globes

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HAPPENINGS

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HAPPENINGS

DAYTONA DISTINCTION At the annual Grand Marshal Dinner, the highly-anticipated prelude to the endurance race Rolex 24 At Daytona, a committee of motorsports authorities awarded Alex Job of Alex Job Racing the 2014 Rolex Bob Snodgrass Award of Excellence. Every year, Rolex—the sponsor of the annual race since 1992—honors a team owner or manager who reflects the integrity, passion and love for sport cars that Bob Snodgrass was known for. Snodgrass, the late president of Brumos Racing, was fundamental in Brumos’ introduction to motorsports. Snodgrass, who passed away in 2007 at the age of 64, had three Rolex 24 At Daytona wins and a total of 10 wins at Daytona. With support from Gorsline Company, an insurance agency for high-risk professionals, Job received an engraved stainless-steel Rolex Yacht-Master timepiece along with the award. rolex.com

ABOVE: The prize for the Snodgrass Award was the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master with platinum bezel and dial

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WATCH JOURNAL BELOW: The Citizen Satellite Wave F100 watch

A WHOLE NEW WORLD

BOTTOM: The Citizen flagship store in New York City's Times Square

HAPPENINGS

Citizen recently opened a global flagship store in New York City’s Times Square, offering the full range of the brand’s US collections, and models including the Satellite Wave F100, a light-powered satellite timepiece, and exclusive limited-edition pieces from its Japan manufacture. Interactive monitors at the store include content from popular watch bloggers, and shoppers can sign a digital guestbook and create a Citizen “passport.” Citizen is known for its ecoconscious technology, which is highlighted in its light-powered watches. In keeping with this philosophy, the new store incorporates Japanese cedar treated by Shou Sugi Ban, a chemical-free process that preserves wood through charring, cooling and oiling, giving it a lasting and fire-safe finish. Grammy Award winner Kelly Clarkson is Citizen’s newest brand ambassador. citizenwatch.com

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WATCH JOURNAL BELOW: The Citizen Satellite Wave F100 watch

A WHOLE NEW WORLD

BOTTOM: The Citizen flagship store in New York City's Times Square

HAPPENINGS

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The Protection Your Collection Demands The Features You Deserve

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Ph (760) 802-6362

Contact one of our designers to create the perfect safe matched to your fine timepiece collection, or choose from select units available for immediate white-glove delivery worldwide.

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HAPPENINGS

PARTNERSHIP IN PERFORMANCE Swiss watchmaker Tissot recently celebrated a special opportunity to meet a star of the motorsports world: the 2006 MotoGP World Champion Nicky Hayden. Held at the company's new Fifth Avenue boutique in New York City, the private cocktail event was hosted by newly appointed US brand manager Justin Thompson in Tissot's first flagship store in the United States. Guests enjoyed an opportunity to view the full selection of Tissot's watch collections, including the Tissot T-Race Nicky Hayden Limited Edition timepiece. “Nicky Hayden has been a valued partner of the brand since 2006, and he continues to be a symbol of Tissot’s pioneering spirit and ongoing mission to revolutionize the art of watchmaking,” says Tissot president François Thiébaud. tissot.ch

ABOVE: The Tissot T-Race Nicky Hayden Limited Edition watch RIGHT: Tissot US brand manager Justin Thompson and Nicky Hayden

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11/02/2015 22:02

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

ABOVE: Derek Jeter with members of Jeter's Leaders RIGHT: A Derek Jeter Captain Series watch

A HOME RUN FOR THE ARTS Movado hosted members of Derek Jeter’s Turn 2 Foundation youth leadership program, Jeter’s Leaders, at a performance of Broadway play “The Lion King.” At a preperformance reception, Yvette L. Campbell, president and CEO of The Harlem School of the Arts (HSA), and Aubrey Lynch, a former “Lion King” producer and the director of dance at HSA, spoke about the importance of arts and culture in our society. Attendees included Efraim Grinberg, chairman and CEO of Movado Group, and Sharlee Jeter, Derek’s sister and president of the Turn 2 Foundation. The Jeter’s Leaders program promotes healthy lifestyles, academic achievement and social activism among high-school students. “Fostering academic achievement is a cornerstone of the Turn 2 Foundation, and I believe the arts and cultural engagement are key to that,” Jeter says. movado.com

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12/02/2015 15:20

HAPPENINGS

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ANNIVERSARY PARTY

ABOVE LEFT: Karolina Kurkova ABOVE RIGHT: Christolph Waltz and Emily Blunt

IWC Schaffhausen presented its new collection of Portugieser timepieces, a series of watches that recently celebrated its 75th anniversary, at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. Guests and brand ambassadors in attendance included Emily Blunt, Christoph Waltz, James Marsden, Dev Patel, Marc Forster, Lewis Hamilton, Adriana Lima, Karolina Kurkova and Mick Hucknall. The new watch collection features innovative technological and design advancements. Included in the new collection are the Portugieser Annual Calendar , the Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, and the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days. The Annual Calendar features IWCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new in-house movement; the Perpetual Calendar is characterized by a large digital date, month and year display. iwc.com

BELOW: The IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar

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QLOCKTWO CLASSIC | CREATOR‘S EDITION RUST ®

QLOCKTWO W | BLACK

info@absdist.com +17144531622 w w w.qlock t wo.com

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HORSING AROUND Montblanc announced champion equestrian Charlotte Casiraghi as its new global ambassador during the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. Joining Casiraghi at the VIP cocktail party celebrating the partnership was Montblanc CEO Jérôme Lambert, who welcomed the royal athlete as a new member of the Montblanc family. The party, which took place in a roof top space at the President Wilson hotel in Geneva, featured decor inspired by Portugese explorer Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India. Guests included Pierre Niney, Adam Gallagher and Montblanc brand ambassadors Guey Lun Mei and Lin Dan. Casiraghi appeared in elegant and timeless pieces from Montblanc’s Boheme Collection, which includes watches, jewelry and writing instruments. She is set to appear in Montblanc’s upcoming advertising campaign. montblanc.com

ABOVE: The Montblanc Bohème Date Automatic Jewellery watch.

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PRECISION INSTRUMENTS FOR TIMEKEEPING

CHRONOLUNAR 47MM

www.ernstbenz.com

London Jewelers - East Hampton & South Hampton, NY l Levinson Jewelers - Fort Lauderdale, FL l Westime - Beverly Hills & West Hollywood, CA E.D. Marshall Jewelers - Scottsdale, AZ l Piccione’s - Lyndhurst, OH l Topper Fine Jewelers - Burlingame, CA l Moray’s - Miami, FL John Varvatos Boutiques - San Francisco, West Hollywood, Costa Mesa, Malibu, CA - Soho, Bowery, Madison Ave., East Hampton, NY - Las Vegas, NV Miami Beach, Bal Harbour, FL - Boston, MA - Houston, TX - London, England - Toronto, Canada - Mexico City, Mexico - Bangkok, Thailand Diamonds International - St. Thomas, St. Maarten, St. Lucia, Aruba, Barbados, Nassau, Grand Cayman, Jamaica, Belize, Cozumel Cabo San Lucas, Puerta Vallarta & Key West l Peyrelongue - Mexico City l Berger - Mexico City

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WATCH JOURNAL BELOW: Two models from the new Helvetica collection

HAPPENINGS

PRINTING TIME

BOTTOM: Guests were treated to cupcakes decorated with mini watch dials

Swiss watch brand Mondaine recently introduced its newest watch collection at an exclusive art gallery space in New York City’s West Chelsea neighborhood. Nearly 30 years ago, Mondaine launched the SBB Swiss Railways Watch, recreating the design of the Swiss railway clocks in a wristwatch. Mondaine based ts new collection on the well-known Helvetica font, which was created at the Haas Type Foundry near Basel, Switzerland and introduced in 1957. “Helvetica gives us the chance to do watches for all sorts of people,” says André Bernheim, co-owner of Mondaine and the host of the event. “We can do thinner, lighter-looking, minimalist watches, and we can do regular-sized pieces for the broader population, and the bold collection gives us the opportunity to go into stronger statement watches.” mondaine.com

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11/02/2015 22:06

MIKE HORN

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

MIKE HORN By Keith W. Strandberg

The World Explorer on the Challenges of Pushing Himself to the Limit.

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PROFILE

Mike Horn

TOP: Sailing among the icebergs ABOVE: Mike Horn's Panerai Luminor Submersible

relevance to me in what I do,” he says. “I asked my mother when I was very young how many days we have to live, and I think her answer was about 30,000 days to the age of 82. That really stuck with me. I do these expeditions one after another because I know my time is limited.” More concretely, timepieces are also important for survival.“Correct time is important for me because it’s direction,” he says. “If you know where the sun is at what time, you know what direction you are going.” Horn has had timepieces specially made for his use on expeditions. “The timepieces Panerai has made for me have been made specifically for what I need—for navigation, for timekeeping, and to resist freezing,” he says. “I only take one watch, so it has to work. When I choose the equipment, it’s my life I put at risk. Whatever I take to help me reach my goals has to be the best. I am taking my watch to the South Pole in negative 60 degrees, to the depths of the oceans, to the top of the mountains, into the jungles.” Horn emphasizes that an explorer’s work is never done, even when he’s not out trailblazing. “I still explore even when I’m not exploring,” he adds. “As a professional explorer, I don’t focus only on one element, like the jungle, the oceans, the deserts. I try and do everything. For me, knowledge is power, so the more I can learn, the better chance I have of succeeding.”

MIKE HORN

LEFT:

Mike Horn has been exploring and adventuring for most of his life. Born in South Africa and currently based in Switzerland, he has probably seen more of the earth than any other living person. He has swum the Amazon, walked to the North Pole during the dark season (more people have been to the moon), scaled the world’s 8,000 meter peaks, walked the Arctic Circle solo, circumnavigated the globe around the equator alone— and much more. I caught up with Horn in his office in Switzerland. It’s hard to imagine that a guy like Horn would have an office, but he does. “The freedom of choice that I have when I am on an expedition is what I enjoy most,” Horn says. “Challenge makes me learn more about myself. During an expedition, I have a very simple and basic life, whereas in day to day life, my life becomes complicated. I am much happier doing what I do when I’m exploring.” Horn isn’t driven by the adrenaline, however. “It’s more the challenge to overcome that fear, to find solutions,” he says. “That is more attractive to me than the danger. The danger is something we can calculate and reduce. The expedition can only be successful if I come back alive: The summit is not the success. Swimming down the Amazon is not the success. The success is knowing when to stop and coming back alive.” Since he started adventuring and exploring, Horn has known how important a reliable timepiece is. “Time is of the utmost

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B E N S AU N D E R S

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

BEN SAUNDERS By Keith W. Strandberg

Completed Shackleton and Scott’s Route to the South Pole on Foot.

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WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

LEFT: Saunders solo. ABOVE: The Bremont U2 Blue

the right time.” Saunders loves watches and works with Bremont for the watches he uses on expeditions. “It’s not something I use as an accessory to match an outfit—I use it to navigate and plan my expeditions. I am often in places where it’s not easy to determine the time of day. Having a watch that works in very low temperatures is important to me. I worked to specify and make a watch with Bremont, the Terranova, specifically for my expeditions,” he says. “The watches performed brilliantly.” His favorite expedition so far has been his recreation of Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s and Sir Ernest Shackleton’s three-year trek to the South Pole. In 1910, Scott and his team were trying to be the first to reach the South Pole, and all five of them died on the return journey. “The trek was 1800 miles and they were hopelessly ill-prepared and ill-equipped," Saunders points out. "We have had some amazing technical advances, from clothing to solar-powered phones and Kevlar sledges. In some ways, I think it gave us insight into what it was like for them so long ago. They didn’t even have zippers because they hadn’t been invented yet. They

nearly made it, though, and that really fascinated me.” When Saunders is not on expedition, he still wears his watch every day. His off season is hectic with training and fundraising, and he relies on his timepiece to keep him on schedule. “I have chosen the most expensive way to go camping,” he says with a chuckle. “The all-in budget for the next expedition is $1.6 million. I thought the hard part would be learning to survive at negative-40 degrees Fahrenheit, but it’s not—it’s raising money and planning it all.”

B E N S AU N D E R S

Ever since he was a boy, Ben Saunders wanted to follow in the footsteps of famous English explorers. At 19, he got a job at an adventure school run by John Ridgway, who in 1966 became the first person to row across the Atlantic, from Ireland to Boston. Now an explorer himself, when Saunders goes on an expedition, he is often on his own, with his life on the line: “It’s a very simple existence; few of the things we normally worry about feel important,” he says. He is wholly dependent on his skills and the equipment that he takes with him to survive the isolation, the disorientation and the cold. “When I reached the North Pole in 2004, I was the only person in 5.4 million square miles. I love the simplicity of that kind of existence." He stayed for 105 days on his last trip to the Arctic. After breakfast each morning, “We’d tear the tent down and ski for 10-anda-half hours, dragging sledges that were about 440 pounds each,” he says. “Every hour and a half we would stop to eat and drink and navigate for 45 minutes. A reliable timepiece is crucial to stick to this routine. If you have a ski plane coming to drop supplies, you have to be at the right place at

“When I reached the North Pole in 2004, I was the only person in 5.4 million square miles.” — Ben Saunders

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CHARLEY BOORMAN

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

CHARLEY BOORMAN By Keith W. Strandberg

A Passion for Motorcycle Adventuring Leads to a Newfound Career.

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PROFILE

FAR LEFT: Charley Boorman LEFT: Rehydrating on the road ABOVE: The Bremont S2000

just a collection of little countries.” Each year Boorman leads groups of intrepid souls through Africa on motorcycles through MotoAventures, which he has been associated with for seven years now. Africa is where Boorman feels most

“One of my favorite places is Kenya—it’s how I always pictured Africa, and it always feels like going home.” —Charley Boorman at home. “I have been to quite a few places around the world and I like the freedom you have in Africa,” Boorman explains. “I like that you are responsible for yourself— you don't have people telling you all the time what you should and shouldn’t be doing. I love the friendliness of the people. There is something about the atmosphere, the terrain and the feeling.” Boorman says that one of his fa-

vorite places in the world is Kenya. It’s how I always pictured Africa,” he continues. “And it always feels like going home. Central Africa, all around Lake Victoria, is the real Africa, where the European is very much the minority. It’s like chaos, but it all seems to work. Equally, I love South Africa for the riding, the food and the wine.” Boorman gets a kick out of igniting the explorer “fire” in people, and his tours are designed to safely introduce novices to the joys of two-wheel adventuring. “A lot of people who have come on my tours have gone on to do their own trips by themselves, because it gives them the confidence to do it. I want them to understand they can do this and it’s not as difficult as they think it is.” He adds that he wants to take people out of their comfort zones during tours. “This is about instilling the traveler’s spirit into people. Traveling is the spice of life. To observe other cultures is really important and go back home and think it’s not that bad. When I go home, I realize how clean London is and how things work. Just getting into a cab that takes you exactly where you want to go, it’s great!”

CHARLEY BOORMAN

Charley Boorman has mastered many things in his life: acting, travel writing, TV presenting. He’s even been a reality TV star, as well as a promoter for UNICEF and dyslexia charities. He has found his true calling, though, as a motorcycle adventurer, sharing his experiences with others, and, several times a year, guiding people to the places he loves. “I did Long Way Round, with Ewan McGregor, the documentary series Race to Dakar and the series Long Way Down, also with Ewan McGregor. I met people along the way, at motorcycle shows and other events, and people always talked about going riding with me in Africa,” he remembers. “I met Billy Ward a few years ago, when I was doing a talk at a BMW dealership in England, and he approached me about doing a speaking tour of England, ‘A talk with Charley Boorman.’ We did 56 talks in 65 days. We discussed my whole life and that was good fun. Then, I thought, if I started leading tours, I could introduce people to Africa and show them that Africa isn't as dangerous and scary as people seem to think it is. People see Africa as this huge continent but it’s really

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N I S H D E G RU I T E R

C GO LL EL NELC IV TE OT R

PROMOTION

WHISKY AND WATCHES On December 17, Glenlivet and Watch Journal hosted an exclusive whisky tasting at The Stanford White Studio at The Lambs Club in New York City. Guests were led through a series of four whiskeys from Glenlivet’s 15-year-old to its 25-year-old, with Glenlivet’s Master of Scotch Ross Graham explaining the taste nuances of each round.

ABOVE: Preparing to party TOP RIGHT: Watch Journal editor in chief Hyla Bauer and chief creative officer Marc Lotenberg MIDDLE RIGHT: Toasting the evening BOTTOM RIGHT: Christel Chaunsumlit, Ronald Jackson, Hayley Merrill

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WATCH JOURNAL

UE Boom speaker.

Chapter

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D R . P E T E R S TA S

COLLECTOR

DR. PETER STAS Founder, Frederique Constant

“My favorite part about the watch industry is design. I like to design watches, the creative part, the creation of product coming together is what drives me the most.” 74

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WATCH JOURNAL

COLLECTOR

If I had to pick just one as my favorite, I would pick the Frederique Constant 2008 Tourbillon in gold. Limited edition, number 78. My favorite part about the watch industry is design. I like to design watches, the creative part, the creation of product coming together is what drives me the most. It was my passion in the beginning, and still is today. In addition to my favorite Frederique Constant, I of course admire Patek Philippe, for example their chrono models and also their minute repeaters. I would say I desire to have one of these Patek Philippe models someday. Last year, 2014, was the 10 year anniversary of the Frederique Constant Heart Beat manufacture, which was an important landmark year for the brand, and a very exciting time for us. In 2015, we are looking forward to more publicity for Frederique Constant, to increase brand awareness worldwide. We will introduce new and interesting pieces at Baselworld 2015 but I will keep that as a surprise. This year will be an important year for the company and I am looking forward to it. —As told to Hayley Merrill

OPPOSITE: Dr. Peter Stas ABOVE: The Alpina Startimer Pilot Manufacture The Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase The Frederique Constant Tourbillon

D R . P E T E R S TA S

“I started (collecting) as a youngster with a Seiko watch, then a Baume et Mercier and then a Carl F. Bucherer. The Seiko was in my pre-teens, and Baume et Mercier as a teenager, and then in my early twenties I bought a Bucherer which was a mechanical watch with a 24-hour hand at 6 o’clock with a beautiful classical case design. At the time Bucherer was the house brand of the Carl F. Bucherer stores in Switzerland. It was very classical and traditional and very well made. As CEO of Frederique Constant, I can select all of the watches, but in practice, I do not. Each year, we develop about 30-40 new models. From time to time I get to wear the prototypes for about 1-2 weeks, to try them out. And then they come and take them back! But they ask for my feedback, and then after a few people have worn the prototypes, they take them apart and see what’s inside. I have a few that I said you have to give them back to me when they are ready. One model is the Frederique Constant 2008 Tourbillon in gold. It is number 78 of a limited edition. I also have the Frederique Constant 705 Slim Line Moon Phase and the Alpina with the 710 aviation manufacture calibre.

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WATCH JOURNAL

JULIEN BIGEN

COLLECTOR

JULIEN BIGEN US Communications Director, Roche Bobois

“I think watches are almost sensual objects—I mean you touch a watch the whole day, it’s on your wrist.” 76

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WATCH JOURNAL OPPOSITE: Julien Bigen LEFT: The Fortis F-43 Flieger 2 The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss BELOW LEFT: The Rolex Daytona Cosmograph 1963

COLLECTOR JULIEN BIGEN

“I got my first watch when I had just turned 30 years old. I was in Milan, because I was living there. It was a Rolex. It’s kind of a funny story—I was in the media business at the time, and my biggest competitor was probably one of the top three Rolex collectors in Italy. He was giving me a speech about that, and I said, “Okay, I'm also going to buy a Rolex myself.” That was my first Rolex—it's a very good classic. I still wear it, I don’t wear it everyday because I have others, but I still wear that watch. The other watch that I'm wearing a lot is another Rolex—the Milgauss with the green bezel around the watch face. The green makes it special, and it’s the only Rolex with some kind of antimagnetic mechanism. I also have a Daytona now, which came out in 1963. After that first Rolex, I got into it—as soon as you get a watch with some kind of value or history, that happens. Most people around you that have seen other watches stop to talk because watch people are a little community. Then I tried to get another one, and then another. And with two, you trade two and get another one. I've seen a lot of collectors do this. I’m not a big collector, I just have a few models, but that’s how it all started. I'm 44, and this was about 15 years ago. Then, I started to like having watches that were a bit different from one another. I have a very easy Fortis Fleiger Classic Black Dial that I wear for sports. I think it's nice to have different ones because you can always match it with what you are wearing on a specific day. If it's a very formal meeting, something black tie, then you have a special watch; if it's more casual, you choose another one. I probably have 15 different models. Each morning in a way, you are thinking about what you are going to do that day and you match it up with the watch. If you have a nice watch with you, or someone else has a nice watch— especially among men nowadays—it becomes a lot of the conversation. One of my coworkers is a very talented designer and one of the biggest specialists in Rolex timepieces, so he advises me a lot. When I'm thinking of buying something, I always consult him. Because with Rolex if you change even just the wristband, then you're out. He's also a very big collector. I think watches are almost sensual objects—I mean you touch a watch the whole day, it’s on your wrist. Especially with the steel wristband of a Rolex, it’s just completely relaxing. I touch the wristband all the time. —As told to Ayla Brewster

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WATCH JOURNAL

M I C H A E L S H VO

COLLECTOR

MICHAEL SHVO President and CEO, SHVO Real Estate Development

“I believe that watches, like cars, are objects that you collect that you should enjoy—to not just look at them but to actually wear them.” 78

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WATCH JOURNAL

COLLECTOR

Equation of Time, which is a complicated watch, a great watch. I own the Royal Oak tourbillon chronograph, the black one that is made out of carbon. I also own a Patek Ref. 5970 in rose gold. I like a watch that looks substantial on the wrist. The Breguet that I probably wear the most—even though it’s not a day-to-day watch—is the Grand Complication Ref. 3755. It’s a perpetual calendar in platinum with a tourbillon. It’s one of the most beautiful watches. For me, Breguet is really all about the tourbillons. I’ve been collecting for 15 years, and I probably have close to 100 watches in my collection. I wear most of them. I own a bunch of Rolexes because I just love vintage Rolexes. I have a really interesting collection of Rolexes. In the 1970s I think it was, Rolex made watches with different faces, so there’s a whole series with different faces from different countries. I work in real estate, and we have offices in New York, London and Dubai. When I started traveling to Dubai, I started collecting vintage Rolexes that were from the Middle East that have the symbol of different Middle Eastern countries on the dials. I do believe watch collecting is something that is really specific to a personality. It’s one thing to collect something because it will appreciate, but I’m a very practical collector, and I like to collect things that I also enjoy wearing.” —As told to Hally Wolhandler

OPPOSITE: Michael Shvo ABOVE: LEFT TO RIGHT The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Skeleton The Breguet Grand Complication Ref. 3755 The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5970

M I C H A E L S H VO

“Many years ago, I was with my prospective brother-inlaw and he was wearing a simple yet classic watch, a Rolex Daytona in stainless steel—it’s one of those watches that everyone wants. At the time, he was about to marry my sister, so I said to him, “As a present to me for marrying my sister, I’d like your watch.” I ended up paying for it, but I bought the watch from him. That was the first watch I bought—and since then, I’ve been collecting very specific watches. I have a big collection of Audemars Piguet watches; I have some Breguets, and a few Pateks. Audemars and Breguet have big selections of skeleton watches, which are my favorites, because you get to see the movement, not only the face—though they are not the most functional watches, when it comes to actually seeing the time. But I always say, you have your iPhone to see the time. A watch is really a piece of jewelry more than anything else. Men are very limited in what jewelry they wear, and a watch is the only piece of quote-unquote jewelry that I wear. It’s more than that, though. I collect watches that I actually wear. There are people who collect watches and they like to look at them in a trunk. I believe that watches, like cars—I collect cars as well—are objects that you collect that you should enjoy—to not just look at them but to actually wear them. I have the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak perpetual calendar in stainless, the skeleton version. I own it in rose gold. I also have the Audemars Royal Oak

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Photos by Daniel Driensky

P L AY

WA T C H J O U R N A L

ABOVE: One of Midnight Rambler's two bars RIGHT: A view of the second bar and cozy seating area

MIDNIGHT RAMBLER, DALLAS

THE JOULE DALLAS HOTEL 1530 Main Street Dallas, Texas 75201

MIDNIGHT RAMBLER In the Heart of Dallas, Craft Cocktails in a Music-Inspired Setting.

The Joule Hotel, designed by Adam Tihany, recently opened its doors to the Midnight Rambler, the hotel's cozy luxe bar. The interior was inspired by jazz, blues, and rock ’n’ roll, and features authentic vintage memorabilia sourced by design group Ten Over Six. New and custom furniture from designers Piet Hein Eek and Robert Lewis, as well as work by the likes of Adam Silverman, Vivian Maier, and Jason Koharik enhance the artful decor. Craft cocktail pioneers Chad Solomon and Christy Pope were the visionaries behind Midnight Rambler, and they created its wide-ranging menu, which includes everything from shared punches and custom shots, to classic cocktails and home-made sodas. Drink offerings include the Easybeet, comprised of gin, Italian vermouth, and beetand-lemon soda, as well as the Hogo-a-go-go, a rum punch made with West Indian bay leaf falernum, hibiscus and nutmeg. Befitting the design—which is both comfort-

able and elegant—the food menu is playful but upscale. Offerings include black-eyed pea hummus made with marinated goat feta, and a smoked fish dip that is served with caviar and Old Bay–seasoned potato chips. Midnight Rambler is poised to become a local favorite for years to come. midnightramblerbar.com

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WA T C H J O U R N A L RIGHT: A guest room at the new Mondrian London BELOW: The hotel's spa MONDRIAN LONDON 20 Upper Ground London, England SE1 9PD

S T AY

The Storied Sea Containers Building is Transformed into a Luxe Hotel.

The Mondrian London, the first Mondrian located off of US soil, opened in September of last year in the famed Sea Containers building between OXO Tower and Blackfriars Bridge. The former office building, which was originally intended to house a hotel, has been completely transformed into a luxurious nautical-inspired hotel on the shores of the Thames river. American architect William Platner designed the building in the 1970s, intending it to be a hotel. When the recession hit, his plans languished, until British designer Tom Dixon revisited Platner’s original idea and the London based Mondrian was back underway. The resulting hotel provides a unique oasis for guests in the heart of the bustling city. A color scheme of deep blues and greens, along with metallics, complements interior architecture reminiscent of a ship’s hull. The London Mondrian rooftop bar

is full of 1920’s charm, and its decor is inspired by the glamour of the era’s cruise ships. The hotel features a luxurious 56-seat screening room, a modern bathhouse and spa, and river views. The 359 rooms feature free Wi-Fi and flat-screen TVs; the decor is sleek and modern with splashes of pink interspersed among white and charcoal gray. The building is a mere five-minute drive from London’s Waterloo train station and is in the same neighborhood as the Tate Modern, Borough Market, The National Theatre and a number of other attractions. morganshotelgroup.com

MONDRIAN LONDON, LONDON

MONDRIAN LONDON

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HOTEL RANDHELI CHEVAL BLANC

The Hotel Randheli Cheval Blanc is an extraordinarily private collection of villas on Noonu Atoll in the Maldives archipelago. The hotel sits on a collection of lush green islands that are protected from the ocean by a spectacular coral reef. Specially designed to accommodate barefoot guests, the hotel is at once luxurious and utterly relaxed. Designed by architect Jean-Michel Gathy, the space seamlessly melds into its natural surroundings with its Water Villas built on stilts so that they actually extend over the water, offering a stunning and peaceful view of the surrounding waters. Gathy decorated the villas with materials native to the Indian Ocean and its shores, including teak, rattan, coconut shells and bamboo, along with colorful artworks by the artist Vincent Beaurin. In addition to the Water Villas, the hotel also offers Island Villas, all of which open onto private beaches, and Garden Water Villas, which feature private tropical gardens. Each of the villas has its own private infinity pool, and the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s island spa can be reached by a short boat ride. An Ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Villa, completed this past fall, is perched on its own private island. Its features include a private spa, pool, gardens, and a collection of locally made dhoni boats. This past spring, the hotel also opened its own concept store, Maldivian Maison, which offers a series of special brand collaborations only available at the Hotel Randheli. One of these collaborations is the Hublot Oceanographic, a special edition titanium dive watch with luminescent indexes that can withstand pressure under the ocean for up to 4,000 meters. chevalblanc.com

PHOTOS BY S. Candito and M. Finzi

G E T AWAY

The Luxe Resort Takes Relaxation To New Levels.

RIGHT: Views of above-water guest areas

H O T E L R A N D H E L I C H E VA L B L A N C , M A L D I V E S

BELOW: An infinity pool at one of the hotel's villas HOTEL RANDHELI CHEVAL BLANC Noonu Atoll Maldives

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Fine watches stay wound, while their owners unwind.

View the aVanti – twelVe pedestal and all of our luxury watchwinders at orbita.com.

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T R A N S P O RT

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MCLAREN $382,260 (44) 1483-261500 cars.mclaren.com

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WATCH JOURNAL

NECESSITIES T R A N S P O RT

LEGENDARY McLaren's new limited edition 650S Le Mans commemorates the 20th anniversary of the now-legendary victory of the McLaren F1 GTR at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1995. In the historic race, this model finished in the first, third, fourth and 13th positions. Only 50 of the new 650S Le Mans will be produced. WINNING DESIGN The 650S Le Mans features a ‘snorkel’ air intake, which funnels into the 3.8 liter twin turbo V8 engine. The new Le Mans edition’s wheels, which are 19 inches on the

front and 20 inches on the rear are fitted with carbon ceramic brakes and McLaren Orange calipers. A MODERN TWIST The famed lines of the F1, snorkel air intake, and wing louvres combine elegantly subtle, innovative updates. The coupe includes extended side blades and a unique rear diffuser. Impressively, the new McLaren 650S Le Mans shares the original’s power and torque capacities, producing 641 bhp and 500 lb/ft of torque.

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STYLE

NECESSITIES

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BURBERRY PRORSUM $1,495.00 (212) 407-7100 burberry.com

NOVELTY Bruce Chatwin, a British author and journalist, is the inspiration behind Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2015 Men’s Prorsum Collection. Featured in the collection are original hand-painted illustrations and typographic prints inspired by vintage English book covers. All the artwork was produced in-house. RUNWAY TO GO The collection of trench coats, jackets, trousers, t-shirts, and bags was first shown on the runway in Burberry’s native London. The fabrics varied from velvet to linen.

HUMBLE BEGINNINGS 21-year-old dressmaker Thomas Burberry founded the brand in London in 1856. Trained in drapery, Burberry invented gabardine, a breathable, durable fabric that would become a staple of the brand. The Burberry check-pattern that the company is known for was introduced in the 1920s as a trench coat lining. It wasn’t until the 1960s that the fabric used in accessories as well, and it was soon to become one of the most recognized plaids in the world.

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WATCH JOURNAL

NECESSITIES STYLE

BALENCIAGA $3,750 (212) 206-0872 balenciaga.com

A NEW CLASSIC The Cable Shopper by Balenciaga was first introduced at their Fall/Winter 2014 runway show. It’s a new spin on the classic shopping bag featuring luxury materials, like alligator and beaver fur, combined with a humble silhouette. For Spring/Summer 2015, The Cable Shopper is offered in bright colors and patterns, including the yellow python “Splash” print, which is a limited edition. CELEBRITY ICON From functional to fabulous, The Cable Shopper has become a recognizable accessory worn by celebrities

like Beyoncé, Rihanna, Kate Bosworth, Lupita Nyong’o, Nicola Peltz, Zoe Kravitz, and Lady Gaga. THE PERFECT PAIRING The bag makes the ideal accessory for Balenciaga’s ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2015 collection, and its versatility is anchored in the design simplicity. The bright colors of the Cable Shopper offer a contrast from the black-and-whites, khakis, and pale pinks of the clothing, while the shape of the bag compliments the collection's sharp lines and structures.

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A C C E S S O RY

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RIMOWA $1,250 (519) 653-1445 rimowa.com

INSPIRATION Rimowa's new Bossa Nova range suggests the vibrancy and passion of its name—a type of Brazilian music —with a collection of bold, eye-catching luggage. The Cabin Multiwheel IATA is relatively lightweight and sturdily built, capturing that same bright spirit and energy.

QUALITY INSIDE AND OUT The Cabin Multiwheel IATA includes a rich polycarbonate shell, leather corners and decorative stitching. The Bossa Nova suitcase feels strong and secure from the outside, with the brand's trademark grooves striping the case. Inside, the sleek padded fabric lining protects belongings.

FEATURES The durable suitcase features Rimowa’s special Multiwheel technology for easy mobility during transit, along with two Flex-Divider systems. With a TSA combination lock, added security is a guarantee.

HEALTH AND HAPPINESS The new suitcase, in part, benefits a good cause. Rimowa donates a percentage of Bossa Nova sales to Saúde e Alegria, an organization dedicated to supporting the Amazon region.

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WATCH JOURNAL

NECESSITIES A C C E S S O RY

BERLUTI $1,590 (212) 439-6400 berluti.com

EASTERN INFLUENCE The Origami Bag evokes the art of Japanese paper folding in its innovative geometric design. Berluti's practical piece prioritizes clever simplicity, with the use of folds to help minimize the amount of cutting and sewing necessary to create the fine leather bag. LEATHER CRAFTSMANSHIP The Origami bag maintains its sturdy shape in everyday use. This strength of structure combined with the nappa and nubuck leathers reflects Berluti's ongoing commitment to producing the finest in leather goods.

TOTAL VERSATILITY The new bag boasts detachable straps and is available in warm color tones. Easily carried as a tote or backpack, or folded for travel, the Origami Bag is perfect for business and leisure. PASSION FOR THE BESPOKE The French brand originated as a bootmaker. Generations later, Berluti has translated that same passion into readyto-wear and made-to-order menswear in addition to leather goods not only in Paris but in exclusive boutiques worldwide.

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S P O RT S G E A R

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HAYDENSHAPES $1250 (310) 648 8268 haydenshapes.com

ARTFULLY INSTALLED The Marble Print Hypto Krypto Surfboard was recently chosen by Alexander Wang to showcase in his Soho, New York flagship store. The installation includes exclusive pieces by Australian surfboard design company Haydenshapes.

THEN AND NOW The company’s origins date back to 1996 in northern Sydney, when Cox produced his first surfboards in his parents’ backyard for himself, his friends, and local surfers. Haydenshapes founder Hayden Cox personally handcrafted each limited edition surfboard for the installation.

DOUBLE DUTY The surfboard installation stems from a desire to create a high-end surfboard that would be both a piece of art for Alexander Wang’s Cage installation and a high performance surfboard. The marble artwork was co-developed by the designer and Haydenshapes.

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WATCH JOURNAL

NECESSITIES S P O RT S G E A R

BABOLAT $350 (303) 832-2700 babolat.com

TIGHTEN UP Babolat, tennis champion Rafael Nadal's racquet of choice, welcomes Babolat Play, a breakthrough innovation that is literally game-changing. This connected version of tennis allows players to view their fellow players’ data, including the scores of top tennis pros. HOW’S IT GOING? Sensors are manufactured into the handle that offer information about the player’s game allowing for the opportunity to improve one’s strategy. Every level of expertise can be supported with the technology this racquet provides.

TRANSPARENT PERSPECTIVES Collecting existing data like shot power and ball impact location along with the number of strokes, spin, total and effective play time, endurance, technique, consistency, energy and rallies, Babolat Play gives the player the option to view these details through a Bluetooth connection with a smartphone or from a USB to a computer. It also connects to tablet devices.

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HOME

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LLADRÓ $1,400 (800) 634-9088 lladro.com

EARTHLY INSPIRATION Lladró's new Estratos Collection of lamps, vases and boxes takes its design cues from the earth's “strata,” the gorgeous patterning of natural geologic layers. Drawing inspiration from nature, the fluid lines spread in geometric curves across the cubical body of the lamp. FINE FINISH The earthly greens and blues of the lamp’s finish are accented by a small golden circle on each side. Each porcelain surface necessitated special colors and a glazed finish adds a luminous flat ink effect.

MADE IN THE SHADE The solid chintz shade provides a pleasing visual balance to the base of the lamp. With a curve to match the lamp's geologic layers, the lampshade is black with a golden interior to reflect the golden accents of the porcelain. ROOTS Founded by three brothers in Valencia in 1953, Lladró has grown into an unparalleled luxury porcelain design firm. Despite its global reach, the brand still preserves its dedication to handmade Spanish creations.

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WATCH JOURNAL

NECESSITIES HOME

CAPPELLINI prices vary by style (212) 620-7953 cappellini.it

CITY SMART Cappellini presents a new collection inspired by the soft, rounded look of its now-classic PEG armchair. The new PEG sofa, available as a two- or three-seater, demonstrates the compact comfort of its original inspiration—the metropolitan look of Milan's supermini “city cars.” COMFORTABLE CURVES Rounded, soft details and modern simplicity characterize the new PEG sofa. With a solid ash wood foundation and choice of walnut, wenge or ebony stains, the sofa is

available in a wide selection of sophisticated fabrics and leathers. ADAPTABLE FORMS Cappellini pursues talent and inspirations from around the world. In this new collection, Japanese design collective Nendo took a refined approach reminiscent of the group's eponym, the Japanese word for clay— indicating the flexible nature of the furniture.

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TECH

NECESSITIES

WATCH JOURNAL

UE BOOM $200 (646) 454-3200 ultimateears.com

ANYWHERE, EVERYWHERE The ultra-compact speaker offers high quality sound within an impressive 50-foot Bluetooth wireless range. Available in vibrant or more subtle hues, the UE Boom's simple design is perfect for parties, picnics and workspaces. QUALITY TONES The UE Boom projects crisp middles, bright highs and impressive bass with enough power to fill an entire studio, shop or apartment with sound.

RUGGED AND READY Water and stain resistant, the UE Boom can weather most day-to-day adventures. Thanks to its convenient shape and clever design, the speaker easily fits in a car cupholder or clips to a backpack. INNOVATIVE The UE Boom can connect to two Bluetooth-capable devices at the same time. The speaker also may serve conveniently as a speakerphone and can field calls from any connected devices.

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WATCH JOURNAL

NECESSITIES TECH

BROWN SAFE $100,000 (760) 233-2293 brownsafe.com

CRAFTSMANSHIP Brown Safe unveils the Limited Edition Damascus Chronos Safe featuring forged Damascus steel. Made in the USA by dedicated craftsmen, Brown calls upon decades of experience in crafting luxury and utility safes for a range of customers, including high-profile celebrities and the military. CUSTOMIZABLE The Chronos Safe is adaptable to individual needs and aesthetics, providing many customizable features as choices for clients.

HIGH SECURITY Features include ballistic armor plating, four-way solid titanium locking bolts, locking bolt anti-drive, interlocking anti-pry door, high-density amalgamate cladding, an alarm system integration and a GPS alert and tracking system. CONVENIENCE For user convenience to match security, the safe features fingerprint entry and a friction-free door. Within, there is an automatic watch carousel and self-closing drawers for ease of use.

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WEAPON

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LYKOPIS ARCHERY $900 (604) 715-5293 lykopis.com

ANCIENT ROOTS Lykopis Archery, a Canadian archery school, offers archery lessons as well as a selection of handmade archery equipment for sale. The Traditional Composite Hungarian Recurve Bow resembles the type of bow Attila the Hun might have carried. SPECIFICATIONS This 57-inch bow is best suited for an intermediate to advanced archer. The bow is offered in a palette of earthy colors. Built from all natural components as bows had been centuries ago, raw goat hide and cow horn cover the

bowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exterior, with a layer of sinew and natural glue over the bow's wood core. Horn plates and hemp bandages reinforce the tips and overall structure of the piece. MYTHIC NAMESAKE The archery school takes its name from Lykopis, an archer who fought alongside fellow female warriors in battle against Hercules described in Greek mythology.

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MARCH 19 – 26, 2015 BASEL – SWITZERLANd

WHERE ONLY THE BEST UNITE FOR THE MOST UNIQUE SHOWCASE ON EARTH Baselworld 2015 is just around the corner and all the brilliance that makes this superlative event shine is about to go live. From March 19 to 26, 2015, every key player representing every sector of the industry that matters is on hand in the centre of Europe, at the very heart of the watch and jewellery industry where trends, in fact, the whole tone of the industry is set. PASSION, PRECISION ANd PERFECTION LIvE What makes Baselworld so unique are the 1,500 of the biggest and best known brands that unite under one roof and attract around 150,000 people from every continent to experience the spectacularly designed multi-storey pavilions on 141,000 m 2, where for a full eight days, Baselworld’s stylish and imposing halls exude an aura of true luxury making it a genuine lifestyle convention. Nowhere else on this planet can one witness pure passion, precision and perfection first hand.

MEdIA REPRESENTATION EN MASSE The newsworthiness of Baselworld is no better established than by the fact that 4,000 members of the press from 70 countries descend on Basel every year to cover the show and disseminate news of the trendsetting creations and innovations to every corner of the world. Baselworld is one of the best-covered industrial shows where the world’s financial press, major national dailies, lifestyle publications, all the trade press, the world’s biggest TV channels, and key players in social media create an unrivalled global impact and underline the show’s position as the most important event for the watch and jewellery industry.

WITNESS HISTORY IN THE MAkINg History is made every year at Baselworld, and you can be a part of it. We invite you to take advantage of this very special event to not only witness but also actively engage in the process. Start planning your visit to Baselworld 2015 !

baselworld.com

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Sketches from Louis Moinet

Chapter

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Louis Moinet Verlator Tourbillon

F E AT U R E : R E W R I T I N G H I S T O RY

Rewriting History By Keith W. Strandberg

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Louis Moinet Continues its Legacy of Innovation with the 20 Second Tempograph. 101

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The original Louis Moinet 1816 chronograph pocket watch.

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Heritage. High watchmaking. Innovation. F E AT U R E : R E W R I T I N G H I S T O RY

There are brands that have one of the three above, and some that have two of the above—but it’s the rare brand that can legitimately claim all three. Louis Moinet is one of them.

HERITAGE

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

The history of Louis Moinet goes back to the man himself. Born into a farming family in 1768, Louis Moinet had dreams and ambitions that didn’t include toiling in the dirt his entire life. Moinet was interested in horology and art, and he trained with a master watchmaker and with artists throughout Europe. At 21, Moinet went to Italy to study architecture, sculpting and painting. After a period of living in Rome, he went to Florence for more art study, and then went on to Paris, where he was appointed a Professor of Fine Arts at the Louvre. While in Paris, Moinet reconnected with the master watchmaker who taught him as a youngster and, before long, the student became the master. In 1817, Moinet met watchmaking legend Abraham-Louis Breguet, who invited Moinet to work with him. They lived and worked in the same house in Paris, and wrote a book about watchmaking during their time together. When Breguet died in 1823, Moinet continued on his own and in time was appointed president of the Chronometry Society of Paris. Among his bespoke clients were Napoleon Bonaparte, King George IV of the United Kingdom, and Presidents Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe. Moinet later wrote his own treatise on watchmaking, complete with comprehensive sketches. To this day, it is considered one of the most important watchmaking references ever written. Recently, Jean-Marie Schaller, president of Louis Moinet, made an incredible discovery. It was thought that Nicolas Rieussec created the first chronograph in 1821, but the first chronograph was, in fact, conceived by Louis Moinet in 1815 and completed in 1816, a full five years earlier than the Rieussec piece. This compteur de tierces—“counter in thirds”—as it was called, is the forefather of the modern chronograph.

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“This piece, it’s a pure, 100-percent Louis Moinet product. It is a movement that has been entirely created to feature this 20 second retrograde. It’s not a module that is on top of a basic movement. It’s entirely tailor-made for Louis Moinet, and it is different from our existing watches.” —Jean-Marie Schaller

In addition to being the first chronograph, this extraordinary timepiece, which Schaller recently bought at an auction, features several other breakthroughs that were ahead of its time, like high frequency (216,000 times a minute), an impressive power reserve (30 hours), the use of a pusher and the modern display of the chronograph information. The watch also has a return-to-zero function, an invention that was revolutionary for the time and that was until recently attributed to Adolphe Nicole in 1862. In addition to precision, Moinet’s hallmark was the melding of his passions—art and horology—into watchmaking masterpieces. Today, the Louis Moinet manufacture draws on its heritage to make products unlike any others on the market today. “Louis Moinet’s history goes back to the 19th century, but the fact is that when we started the company 10 years ago, we had zero brand awareness,” Schaller admits. “We have to do things differently for two reasons: It is in our blood and there would be no point in producing conservative watches, because there are already too many.” For these reasons, Schaller is committed to combining art and watchmaking in surprising ways. HIGH WATCHMAKING The reinvented Louis Moinet has focused on high watchmaking, combining interesting and multiple complications with incredible design and the use of unique materials. “There are always two elements to design. It has to be in line with the history of Louis Moinet—he was innovative, he was in the forefront,” Schaller says. “Our watches have to bring something to the market. They must not only please the eye, they have to also be different. The 20 Second Tempograph, for example, is something that is a bit surprising. For this watch, the design was linked to the movement.”

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A view of the back of the Louis Moinet 20 Second Tempograph.

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The Louis Moinet Derrick Tourbillon.

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INNOVATION

F E AT U R E : R E W R I T I N G H I S T O RY

Schaller continues the tradition of innovation at Louis Moinet that was begun with the first chronograph back in 1816. The 20 Second Tempograph is a superlative example of traditional watchmaking revisited. “This piece, it’s a pure, 100-percent Louis Moinet product,” says Schaller. “It is a movement that has been entirely created to feature this 20 second retrograde. It’s not a module that is on top of a basic movement. It’s entirely tailor-made for Louis Moinet, and it is different from our existing watches. “The 20 Second Tempograph is made up of 260 parts, and there are four unique features — at 2 p.m. you find the retrograde seconds display — at 4 p.m. you find the small time display dial — at 8 p.m. you find the cam mechanism in the shape of a star. Every 20 seconds, a rake equipped with a micro ruby on the tip performs the function of liberating the second hand of the retrograde. This is oneof-a-kind and spectacular, and you can see it on the wrist — at 10 p.m. you find the balance wheel and escapement, which we display on the dial side so the owner can see it.” The 20 Second Tempograph is captivating, with part of its movement revealed and its retrograde seconds always alive. The contrast of the elegant white dial and traditional blued-steel hands and the very modern dial layout is surprising and just right.

“Perfection does not exist, but we always want to go a step beyond and improve.” —Jean-Marie Schaller NEXT STEP

THE USA For Louis Moinet, the US market is very important. “It is one of our key markets. Our brand appeals to the American market because it has real heritage, a bit of mystery, and it has quality and unique design,” Schaller says. Louis Moinet has a venerable heritage and a strong forward-thinking steward in Schaller, who is committed to making the right timepieces for yesterday, today and tomorrow. “I have one job: Louis Moinet. I have one hobby: Louis Moinet. And I have one dream, which is Louis Moinet,” he says. “I really like where we are today. I think we have managed to create an interesting range of watches. Ten years ago I asked myself what I wanted to do in life, and I wanted to make my own creations and share them with other people—and I have tried everything to achieve this goal. Perfection does not exist, but we always want to go a step beyond and improve.” louismoinet.com

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The next logical step for Louis Moinet is to develop a new in-house chronograph, which Schaller admits is currently in the works. “We are working on a reference chronograph that will pay homage to the first chronograph,” he says. “After we introduced the 1816 chronograph, there were two camps: one asking us to redo the original chronograph, and the other encouraging us to do a flagship chronograph that reinvents it. We decided to do the latter, which will be very unique and different.”

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OPPOSITE: The Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing team in action. Photos by Shane Smart/Volvo Ocean Race.

Anchors Aweigh D AV I D S C H M I D T

By David Schmidt

The Volvo Ocean Race sets sailors on a tour around the world. 108

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Team Vestas Wind runs aground. Photos by Brian Carlin/Team Vestas Wind/Volvo Ocean Race.

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VOR has adopted a single-design format. All of the yachts—as well as their sails and equipment—are built to identical and exacting specifications by the same manufacturers in order to ensure a level playing field. Now, the only things differentiating the competing teams are their levels of preparation, training, fitness, teamwork and psychological mettle, as well as their sponsor’s clothing and gear. “This year’s race will be more about the sailors,” said Mark Towill, the general manager of Team Alvimedica, a Turkish- and Americanflagged entry. “It will be a game of inches, with a lot of focus on good trimming and fast driving. I think it will be the most competitive VOR that we’ve seen in years.” Swiss watchmaker IWC Schaffhausen serves as the VOR’s official timekeeper, a responsibility that has reached new significance given the fair nature of this year’s race. Additionally, IWC is returning as an official sponsor of Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing, a team that they also sponsored in the 2011/2012 VOR. “Ever since we started working with IWC, they have strived for timing perfection, and in a race where time is pretty much everything you think about, this is an exciting partner for us,” said Knut Frostad, CEO of the VOR as well as a four-time veteran of this grueling around-

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ABOVE: The Limited Edition IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph “Ocean Racer” was introduced at the start of the race. Its 360 degree rotor is modeled after a ship’s wheel.

The around-the-world Volvo Ocean Race bills itself as “Life at the Extreme” for good reason: This Grand Prix sailboat race challenges crews and their carbon-fiber yachts to their absolute breaking points, as they battle their ways through some of the planet’s worst weather—including the windswept depths of the Southern Ocean and the much-feared Cape Horn. Established in 1973 as the Whitbread Round the World Race, today the Volvo Ocean Race (or “VOR” in sailor’s parlance) joins the rarefied ranks of the America’s Cup and the Olympics as one of sailing’s three greatest competitions. But unlike these in-shore regattas, the VOR takes teams on a complete planetary lap that began last year on October 4 in Alicante, Spain, and will finish in Gothenburg, Sweden in late June of this year. The trip includes ten stopover ports en route. Because of this racing format, each stage section of the race turns into a “distance sprint,” with crews pushing their boats to the limit 24 hours a day, irrespective of adverse weather or crew comfort. Unlike previous editions of the race that placed a “box-rule” design limit on the bespoke yachts that each team designed and built in the shadows of secrecy, (think Formula One auto racing), the 2014/2015

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ABOVE, Knut Frostad (right); BELOW, Mark Towill (front).

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while the boat was repeatedly slammed into the reef by waves during the inky dark hours—and the crew was able to safely relocate to a tiny nearby island in the morning.

All of the yachts—as well as their sails and equipment—are built to identical and exacting specifications by the same manufacturers in order to ensure a level playing field.

While there’s no escaping the fact that human error was ultimately to blame for this unfortunate accident, it serves to illustrate the sky-high levels of stress and pressure that crews, skippers and navigators are constantly subjected to during this

grueling race. Still, the crew, led by skipper Chris Nicholson, spent several weeks working to remove the stricken vessel from the reef—so that it wouldn’t pollute an otherwise pristine ecosystem—and the team is now focusing its considerable competitive energy on rejoining the fleet aboard their repaired yacht later this spring. Elsewhere in the fleet, this same competitive spirit is flourishing as crews band together to master their boats. At the time of this writing, Dongfeng Race Team was in the pole position on the leaderboard, followed by Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing and Team Brunel, followed by Team Alvimedica and MAPFRE. While there are still plenty of offshore miles to go—and therefore leaderboard passing opportunities— fans and spectators can bet their favorite timepieces that a high level of competition will persist all the way to Gothenburg. And given that some of the finishing-time differences between teams have been measured in mere minutes—an impressive feat, given the thousands of miles separating the starting and finishing lines—IWC’s timekeeping pieces are playing an important role in this hardscrabble battle for top honors. volvooceanrace.org iwc.com

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the-world race. “From our huge digital countdown clocks on the race committee boat to the official race village clock, to the countdown and count-up [clocks] on our website, to the limited-edition IWC wristwatches, the brand has been very consistent in only delivering the best and most precise [timepieces].” The VOR features in-port racing at almost all of its stopovers, giving interested fans a chance to see the fleet in fullthrottle action close to shore. For Americans, the VOR fleet is expected to arrive in Newport, Rhode Island in early May 2015, with an in-port race scheduled for May 16, the day before the fleet departs for Lisbon, Portugal. As of press time, teams have completed two of nine offshore legs and are currently en route to Sanya, China, after departing from Abu Dhabi on January 3 under a veil of fog and light air. While there have been plenty of tough tactical battles fought between crews, the biggest headlines that have been generated so far unfurled on the night of November 30, when Team Vestas Wind slammed into the Cargados Carajos Shoals (some 270 miles northeast of Mauritius) at 19 knots, destroying its multimillion dollar yacht. Fortunately, no one was hurt—either during impact or

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WA T C H J O U R N A L BELOW: The Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m.

Mastering the Depths By Carol Besler

In the 1960s, a few intrepid watchmakers raced to be the first to develop dive watch technology. 114

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One memorable dive in 1960 tested a Rolex Deepsea prototype to a depth of 11,000 meters in the Mariana Trench.

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Rolex was instrumental in developing the helium valve, working mainly in collaboration with the French diving company Comex (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises). One memorable dive in 1960 tested a Rolex Deepsea prototype to a depth of 11,000 meters in the Mariana Trench, descending from the Trieste, a deep-diving research bathyscaphe. Rolex also worked with Comex to test a Sea-Dweller equipped with helium valves, helping to further develop cases that could withstand the pressure on deep dives. Rolex debuted the Sea-Dweller commercially in 1967 with an impressive 600 meter water resistance. The latest version, the Sea-Dweller 4000, introduced in 2013, is water resistant to 1,220 meters. Omega also did a great deal of research on the development of divers’ watches, introducing its original Seamaster 600 Ploprof (the first letters of plongeurs professionnels, “professional divers” in French) in 1970, also with 600-meter water resistance. A year later the brand debuted the Automatic Seamaster 1,000, a professional divers’ watch that went to 1,000 meters. Instead of a helium valve, it had a tough, monoblock stainless-steel case with a screwed crown that was equipped with compression gaskets. The crown was uniquely positioned at 9 o’clock to avoid accidental manipulation. Like all diver’s watches, it had a unidirectional bezel for timing dives and a very thick crystal—5.5 mm thick compared to the usual 1 or 2 mm. At the time, Omega opted to design cases that were helium-proof to begin with, using monoblock forms that were engineered take the pressure. The Ploprof was reissued in 2009, with 1,200-meter water resistance and a crown at the signature 9 o’clock position. This version does have a helium valve, and is also equipped with an internal rotating bezel, along with the brand’s elite co-axial movement. The steel mesh bracelet is billed as “sharkproof.” Jaeger-LeCoultre also made a name for itself in diving watch technology early on with the 1959 introduction of the Memovox Deep Sea, the world’s first divers’ watch with an alarm function to remind the diver when it was time to return to the surface. Jaeger-LeCoultre followed up with the Memovox Polaris in 1965, also with an alarm function as well as 200-meter water

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Today, it is common for most watch brands to have a dive watch collection, but in the 1950s, before water sports boomed and diving for leisure became popular, such a concept wasn’t commercially viable. Diving watches were developed primarily for professionals—particularly the military—as much for prestige as for commercial reasons. For this reason, only a handful of brands took on the task of making water- and pressure-resistant watches. Although several watch companies, including Rolex and Blancpain, created watches with rotating bezels in the 1950s, it wasn’t until the late 1960s that serially produced divers’ watches began to appear. These were used mainly by professional divers who needed watches for saturation dives of up to 1,000 meters. Saturation divers work underwater in a pressurized environment for long periods of time before decompressing to the surface, breathing in a mixture of oxygen and other gases, including helium. One of the problems with early watches used for saturation diving was that a buildup of helium gas would occur inside the case, often causing the crystal over the dial to pop off. This led to the development of the helium valve, which could release the buildup of gas inside the case and keep the crystal intact.

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Clockwise from upper left: A Jaeger-LeCOultre 1968 Memovox Polaris, a 1967 Rolex Seadweller, a Seiko Marinemaster, a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape Chronograph Flyback.

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resistance and an internal rotating bezel. A follow-up model, with a rubber and steel strap, was introduced in 1968. The Memovox is an iconic piece for the brand, and remains a favorite among collectors. A Memovox Tribute piece was introduced in 2011, with an automatic movement and a slightly larger case. It replicates the original Plexiglass window over the dial rather than a sapphire crystal, as a tribute to the historic piece. The Memovox Tribute is water-resistant to 100 meters. Seiko was also keen to develop a professional diver’s watch, and introduced the 150M Diver in 1965. Like most divers’ watches at the time, it was aimed at professionals, and could descend to 150 meters. Seiko followed up in 1967 with the 300M Diver, but aimed to go deeper. After seven years of research, the company proudly debuted the Professional Diver’s 600M Titanium in 1975. It was the first divers’ watch in the world to have a titanium case. It was also shock-resistant, corrosion-proof and anti-magnetic. It was built for saturation diving, and could operate at 600 meters without a helium valve. This model would eventually be depth rated to 1,000 meters. Swiss brand Doxa was also involved with professional divers, introducing a divers’ watch in 1967, the SUB 300T, with a unidirectional rotating bezel that integrated a no-decompression scale to help divers descend and ascend safely. Its now-iconic bright orange dial was another notable innovation, which has been proven to be highly readable in dark diving conditions.

The Doxa’s now-iconic bright orange dial was another notable innovation, which has proven to be highly readable in dark diving conditions.

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The SUB 300T was used by the US Navy’s saturation divers in the early ’70s. No history of the divers’ watch would be complete without noting Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms, originally developed for the French Navy’s École des Nageurs de Combat (Combat Diving School). The first model debuted in 1953, with a highly legible dial coated with luminescent markings, now a trademark of the brand’s dive watch, featuring a unidirectional rotating bezel. It had a screwed-on caseback and screwed crown with a double O ring for water resistance. It was automatic—a movement included in most divers’ watches today—in order to prevent wearing out the crown seals by winding. Early models had a humidity indicator on the dial, alerting the wearer to any water penetration of the case. The Blancpain was named the Fifty Fathoms after the British measurement of 50 fathoms, or approximately 91.45 meters. At the time, this was considered the maximum depth a diver could reach with the oxygen mixture then in use. The Fifty Fathoms was available for regular purchase beginning in 1960, and has evolved constantly since then. Today, it is a full collection, including a tourbillon and chronograph, as well as the Fifty Fathoms X, which has a mechanical depth gauge, amorphous metal membrane and a decompression valve and is water-resistant to 300 meters. The collection culminated last year with the Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe, which is water-resistant to 300 meters and features a depth gauge.

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Big Screen Timemachines By Keith W. Strandberg

From “2001: A Space Odyssey” to “Interstellar,” Watches Have Played Starring Roles in Films for Decades. 118

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What do film producers do when they want to put a watch on a certain character, but they can’t find exactly the right timepiece? In the case of the recently released hit movie “Interstellar,” where adventurous pilots head off into deep space, the film’s prop master approached Hamilton and asked the company to make a special one-off watch. Matthew McConaughey, who plays a pilot, wears a Hamilton Khaki Pilot Day Date in the film, but his daughter Murph (played as an adult by Jessica Chastain and as a child by Mackenzie Foy) wears a unique timepiece developed by Hamilton specifically for her character. The watch Hamilton created combines elements from the current Khaki Field collection mixed with some vintage Hamilton touches. “When director Christopher Nolan asks, you can’t refuse,” says Hamilton president Sylvain Dolla. “The prop masters came to us and said that they wanted to develop a special watch for the movie and we were very excited. Making a prop watch for Murph, the daughter in the film, was really interesting, because two critical emotional moments are based around the timepiece. Before Matthew McConaughey leaves for space, he gives her the Hamilton watch, and she doesn’t want him to leave. At the end of the movie, there is a very important moment based around time, and the watch is featured. “Since I have been at Hamilton, this is by far our best movie involvement,” Dolla continues. “People will remember ‘Blue Hawaii,’ ‘2001’ and ‘Men in Black,’ and they will remember ‘Interstellar.’ For me, it’s the strongest watch partnership ever, because the watch has such a big role in the movie.” Hamilton even created a sweepstakes on its website to give away one of the actual watches used in the movie. At this time, Hamilton has no plans to put the “Interstellar” watch into production. For Dolla, it would ruin what was a unique collaboration between the filmmakers and his brand. “It would be something commercial, marring what was the perfect project for us, and we are very happy with the way it turned out,” he adds. Hamilton has a history of creating watches for films. For Stanley Kubrick’s “2001: A Space Odyssey,” the watch company designed and built prototypes specifically for use in the movie. The “2001” watch was a special multiple time zone timepiece that was too complicated to manufacture at that time (although the company did do a limited edition of 2001 pieces in 2006). Other filmmakers go to great lengths to get the perfect watch. Prop master Doug Harlocker has a long history of working with watch companies, knowing that product placement is financially advantageous for movie producers. While working on “Oceans 12” alone, Harlocker carried around at least $250,000 worth

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Mackenzie Foy and Matthew McConaughey with his Hamilton watch in “Interstellar.”

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BELOW: The Hamilton Khaki worn by Jessica Chastain and the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Day Date worn by Matthew McConaughey in “Interstellar”. Drawings of the special edition Hamilton Khaki.

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of loaned timepieces with him every day for various characters. “No matter what size the budget of the movie, it is hard for producers to justify spending $30,000 on a watch—or even $5,000, for that matter—and we always need more than one for safety,” he explains. “For Russell Crowe in ‘Master and Commander,’ I contacted Breguet to duplicate a pocket watch that they had made in the 1700s to use in the film. They took it on as a challenge and delivered a magnificent pocket watch, absolutely authentic to the period, at no charge to us. What did they get out of it? Well, 100 million people saw that movie and Russell using it.” Arnold Schwarzenegger has worn Audemars Piguet watches in movies for quite some time, including in the “Terminator” series. For the 1999 film “End of Days,” Audemars Piguet created a special Royal Oak Offshore model for him. Schwarzenegger even worked with the company on the design of what would become a coveted limited edition. Ann Roth, costume designer on “Julie & Julia,” “The Reader,” “The Way Way Back” and many others, is obsessive about getting the right watch for each character. “I choose the watch based on the character,” she says. “For example, Ralph Fiennes needed a watch for ‘The English Patient.’ His character was Hungarian royalty in the 1920s who was involved in the geographical society and lived in London and Egypt, so the watch he wore had to be really particular. I wanted the watch that guy really would wear. I found it in London, in a secondhand shop, but I needed two of them, so I had a watchmaker make me another one. I am very particular about the watches that characters wear, as they say so much about them.” Watches and clocks can make a powerful statement as symbols—there’s an iconic image of Harold Lloyd hanging from a giant clock (from the 1923 silent film “Safety Last”)—and as a way to reveal character. In a way, every watch in every movie symbolizes the kind of character the actor is portraying. Watches are featured in movies and on television now more than ever before. Just in the last few months, there have been several very high profile uses of watches in movies and TV, including in the recently released film “John Wick,” starring Keanu Reeves. Carl F. Bucherer made watches for the characters played by Reeves, Willem Dafoe and Daniel Bernhardt. “A big part of why we took on ‘John Wick’ was to create a hyper-real world, a little shinier and more interesting, and we wanted to give the character a different look and change things around,” says Chad Stahelski, who co-directed “John Wick” with David Leitch. “That goes down to the wardrobe, the set decoration and the props. We wanted something to go with the wardrobe that looked classic and clean, but with a twist, so we chose the Carl F. Bucherer. We wanted something different that people hadn’t seen, and Keanu agreed that this was exactly the watch his character would wear.”

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Keaneau Reeves with his Carl F. Bucherer watch in “John Wick.”

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: Testing straps at the TAG Heuer manufacture.

Shake, Rattle and Roll By Keith W. Strandberg

At TAG Heuer, watches are tested to their very limits. 122

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Shinola Runwell chronograph with in-house leather strap

Putting the components through their paces.

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TESTING, TESTING AND MORE TESTING Sports watches are put through a battery of tests that push them to their limits. Often, engineers can only finalize designs once the timepieces have reached their breaking points, which means subjecting them to drops, extreme conditions and much more. TAG Heuer has a “torture chamber” where watches are put through every possible test until they are destroyed. “We do sample testing and the tests we perform usually destroy the watch,” says Luca Verardo, the laboratory manager at TAG Heuer. According to Verardo, the tests performed on every TAG Heuer sports watch and chronograph are: water-resistance, mechanical endurance (vibration-resistance, shock-resistance, linear and angular acceleration, abrasion-resistance, corrosion-resistance (to seawater, perspiration and UV rays), functional element resistance (turning bezel rotation, pushbutton and crown fatigue, etc.), performance measurement (night-time readability, antireflection, et.) and chronometric precision measurement.

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Today’s watches, especially sports watches, are designed to take a beating—so you don’t have to think about them, no matter what you are doing. Sports watches are the timepiece equivalent of the Swiss Army Knife, able to do just about anything, while still looking good. Created to be an allaround timepiece, today’s quality sports watches can take everything you can dish out, and more.

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“The main reason for all the testing we do is to check the quality and the reliability of the product. The tests we perform usually destroy the watch. We learn where the outside edge of performance is.” —Luca Verardo

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As sports watches are designed to be used in real world, often extreme, conditions, they have to do what they say they can do. “The main reason for all the testing we do is to check the quality and the reliability of the product,” Verardo says. “It’s important because we can’t refer only to the raw material characteristics. Every product has specific geometry, specific assembly, so we have to evaluate if each product meets our requirements. Every conception, every new material, every new design. “We test until the limit of the performance, so we destroy the product,” he adds. “We learn where the outside edge of performance is, and we can learn which designs are better than others.” Thanks to all this extreme testing, you can strap on a quality sports watch and do just about anything without having to worry whether your watch is going to be OK. Whether it’s jumping out of an airplane, diving to the bottom of the sea or running a marathon, your watch can go the distance with you.

Water-resistance testing in a pressure tank.

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tagheuer.com

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Finishing touches.

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The Chanel J12 Classic in black ceramic

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SU B STA NC E K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Tough as Nails By Keith W. Strandberg

Ceramic has become a staple in the arsenals of many top manufactures. 129

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Assembling

and preparing the links for the Chanel J12 bracelet.

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High-tech ceramic was first introduced into watchmaking in the 1980s. This beautiful material has a number of benefits: It is several times harder—yet lighter—than steel, virtually un-scratchable, non-corrosive, hypoallergenic, will never fade or change color, and is almost indestructible (unless you shatter it). Creating something with all of these advantageous qualities, however, is no easy task. The process of making a ceramic watch case from the raw powder material is quite difficult—and expensive. LIKE A DIAMOND

ity of its surface. “The high-tech ceramic used in all J12 watches is unalterable, incredibly strong,” Beau says. “It is nearly impossible to scratch—only a diamond, the hardest of all stones, can alter it,” he adds. Another perk? It feels good on the wrist. “In terms of comfort, high-tech ceramic is a lightweight, thermoneutral material.” VERSATILE BEAUTY Chanel is committed to using ceramic in watches and in jewelry. “We use the highceramic for the J12 collections with three strong original colors established as an identity: J12 Black, J12 White and J12 Chromatic,” Beau says. “Our aesthetic and artistic choice is to develop animations around these three colors. For example, during Baselworld 2014, we presented a new association of the black, white and chromatic ceramic bodies with beige gold bezels—a new gold alloy exclusive to Chanel, which we have developed specifically to perfectly match our ceramic colors. At Baselworld 2015, we will present the J12 White for the first time with lacquered color bezels in pastel blue, pink and green. “We also use high tech ceramic in the Première collection, for example in Haute Horlogerie with the deep black dial or the opalescent white of the Premiere Flying Tourbillon,” he continues. “Ceramic is also present in our Fine Jewelry collections,” Beau adds, “like our new Camélia Galbé and Cosmique de Chanel collections.” chanel.com

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Creating a high-tech ceramic watch case requires the same amount of energy that goes into making a diamond. The powder has to be sintered, or fired and compressed to a liquid state, and then formed into the case to harden. There is quite a bit of trial and error at the start of the manufacturing process, as the raw materials do not occupy the same volume as the finished product, because sintering compresses and reduces the form. From an engineering and manufacturing standpoint, it’s a logistical challenge that, once solved, is repeatable and predictable. I visited with Nicolas Beau, Chanel’s international watch director, to find out more about the process behind creating the brand’s J12 watch, which is ceramic. “Hightech ceramic production requires a high level of know-how, human ingenuity and high-tech technology, to obtain the beauty, shine and resistance of the J12 watches,”

Beau says. “The process involves many steps, ranging from the selection of powders and pigments to obtain a deep black or immaculate white, to the shaping of pieces, the washing and cleaning of unwanted binders, to the firing at more than 1,000 degrees Celsius, which restructures the elements fusing the components. Each of these steps is a challenge, and requires fine-tuning. Chanel is committed to respecting the environment, so each step of a J12’s development has been designed to optimize energy consumption and recycle the primary materials used.” In addition to all that goes into the manufacturing process, the final operations are particularly difficult. Creating the case and bracelet links of the J12 requires an enormous amount of savoir-faire, due to ceramic’s unalterable resistance. Chanel has developed its own polishing techniques to produce the unique satinlike finish of its watches. “We chose to use high-tech ceramic back in 2000 for the creation of the J12, because it was the only material that would allow us to achieve the intense black color we were looking for—because it doesn’t come from a surface treatment but is embodied in the very material itself,” Beau explains. “We have also developed our own patented formula for the J12 White launched in 2003, which achieves this immaculate, opalescent white color. And because ceramic isn’t sensitive to ultraviolet light, these unique colors will never alter over time.” Ceramic’s rich color isn’t the only thing that doesn’t change: neither does the solid-

SU B STA NC E

“It is nearly impossible to scratch—only a diamond, the hardest of all stones, can alter it. In terms of comfort, high-tech ceramic is a lightweight, thermoneutral material.” — Nicolas Beau

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch in black ceramic, $23,900, (888) 214-6858.

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Carl F. BuchererPatek Patravi Philippe ScubaTec 10-Day watch Tourbillon, in stainless Ref.steel, 5101G,$3740, in white (800) gold 395-4306. with concealed Fin and tourbillon console (both regulator pages) from Scubapro. and visible power reserve indication, $395,000

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Ulysse Rendez-Vous Nardin Marine Ivy Minute Diver watch, Repeater $9500, in white (212) gold, 257-4920. price upon request

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IN DEEP

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IN DEEP

Rolex Deepsea watch in stainless steel, $12,350, (800) 367-6539.

STYLE

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Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Left-handed 3 Days Automatic Titanio, $10,900, (877) 726-3724. Swim trunks by Orlebar Brown, snorkel and mask from Scubapro.

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Roger Tudor Dubuis Heritage Excalibur Black Bay 42 watch Skeleton in stainless Flying Tourbillon steel, $3425, in rose turdorwatch.com. gold, $169,000

STYLE

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Dior Chiffre Rouge D02 watch in steel with black rubber, $5400, (866) 675-2078.

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IN DEEP

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Chanel J12 watch in high-tech ceramic, $6,700, (800)550-0005. Fin and snorkel from Scubapro.

IN DEEP

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$5750, (866) VUITTON.

STYLE

Louis Vuitton Tambour XL Diving II watch in stainless steel,

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IN DEEP

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Jaeger-LeCoultre MasterBall Grande Engineer Tradition Hydrocarbon Tourbillon NEDU à watch Quantième in stainless Perpétuelsteel, in rose $5,099, gold, (727) featuring 896-4278. Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 987 with silicon escapement and automatic winding, price upon request

IN DEEP

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FrĂŠdĂŠrique Constant Manufacture Tourbillon in steel with automatic Caliber FC-980 manufacture Maurice Lacroix Pontos S watch in stainless movement steel, and silicon $4500, escapement, (800) 799-1616. $52,995 Swim trunks (both pages) by Vilebrequin.

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The PIaget Altiplano skeleton watch in white gold.

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Piaget L E G A C Y: P I A G E T K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Taking Movement Manufacture to New Heights 145

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The Piaget Manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates.

L E G A C Y: P I A G E T

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Though it may not be the first thing you think of when you hear the name Piaget, the company has always been first and foremost about movements. The storied maison started as a movement supplier, then went on to make complete watches with its own movements encased inside. Over the years, Piaget developed a reputation for jeweled watches that for a time overshadowed its prowess in movement-making. Today, Piaget has reclaimed its place in the movement pantheonâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and has specifically devoted its attention to ultra-thin movements. piaget.com 146

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1959 The first Piaget boutique opens at 40 rue de Rhone.

in Geneva.

Georges Edouard Piaget sets up his movement workshop on the family farm in La Côte-aux-Fées, a small village in the heart of the Swiss Jura mountains. Because of his watchmaking skill and the precision of the movements he crafts, word of Piaget’s ability spreads throughout the industry and the family business booms.

1960s

L E G A C Y: P I A G E T

1874

Piaget unveils the Calibre 12P, one of the thinnest self-winding movements in world, and also begins producing jewelry.

1911 Piaget’s son, Timothée, takes over his father’s business, with similar success. Companies from near and far come to this sleepy mountain village to buy Piaget movements.

1943 Piaget becomes a registered brand and produces watches signed and sold under its own name.

1979

1957

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

The now-iconic Piaget Polo collection launches.

Piaget creates the 9P hand-wound ultra-thin movement.

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2001

L E G A C Y: P I A G E T

Piaget inaugurates a new Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie in Plan-les-Ouates, just outside Geneva. The Maison is currently working on an extension that will open in 2015.

2013 The House introduces its first Minute Repeater movement, the Calibre 1290P. The Piaget Emperador Coussin Automatic Minute Repeater watch breaks a double record for thinnest in its category this year for both the case and the movement.

2010 Piaget presents the Altiplano 43mm timepiece equipped with the Piaget 1208P ultra-thin automatic mechanical movement with small seconds, the thinnest in the world at just 2.35mm thick, as well as the 1200P, an ultra-thin automatic mechanical movement with hours and minutes display.

2014

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Piaget celebrates the 140th anniversary of its founding by presenting the Extremely Piaget collection. As part of its US retail expansion, the House opens its Los Angeles boutique on Rodeo Drive. It also introduces the Piaget Altiplano 38mm 900P, the thinnest mechanical watch in the world.

2012 The Piaget Altiplano Skeleton timepiece equipped with the 1200S automatic movement is unveiled. It is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thinnest self-winding skeleton model and movement.

2015 Piaget debuts the Altiplano Chronograph which breaks two world records as the thinnest hand-wound flyback chronograph timepiece and hand-wound flyback chronograph movement.

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The Piaget

Black TIe

Emperador Coussin Minute Repeater.

Chapter

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Guide

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THE LIST Top Watch Retailers Across the Country

THE LIST

ARIZONA E.D. MARSHALL JEWELERS 10261 N. Scottsdale Road Scottsdale, AZ 85253 (480) 922-1968 Brands: Blancpain, Bremont, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet, Maurice Lacroix, Piaget and others TOURNEAU 7014 E. Camelback Road, #1055 Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (480) 429-2304 Brands: Bell & Ross, Bremont, Tudor

T OP R ETA I L E R S

CALIFORNIA DAVID ORGELL 262 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 273-6660 Brands: Baume & Mercier, GirardPerregaux, JeanRichard, Maurice Lacroix, Perrelet, Ulysse Nardin and others GEARY'S 360 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 887-4250 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex WESTIME 254 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 271-0000

8569 Sunset Boulevard Beverly Hills, CA 90069 (310) 289-0808 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Dior, Franck Muller, Hermès, Ulysse Nardin and others

Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 966-1204 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Devon, Frédérique Constant, JaegerLeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Tudor and others

TOPPER FINE JEWELERS 1315 Burlingame Avenue Burlingame, CA 94010 (650) 347-2221 Brands: Ball, Ernst Benz, Glashütte Original, Longines, Omega, Zenith and others

BEN BRIDGE 1177 Glendale Galleria Glendale, CA 91210 (818) 637-2511 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others

POLACHECK’S JEWELERS 4719 Commons Way, #E Calabasas, CA 91302 (818) 225-0600 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Tudor and others

C.J. CHARLES 1135 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 454-5390 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre

CHATEL & CO Jewelers Lincoln Street between Ocean & 7th Avenue Carmel, CA 93921 (888) 524-2835 Brands: Bell & Ross, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Richard Mille, Zenith and others TOURNEAU 3333 S. Bristol Street, #2603

WESTIME 1227 Prospect Street La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 459-2222 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Louis Moinet, Zenith and others FELDMAR WATCH CO. 9000 W. Pico Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90035 (310) 274-8016 Brands: Blancpain,

Breguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Hermès, Omega and others MILANO BIJOU 928 S. Western Avenue, #211 Los Angeles, CA 90006 (213) 382-1700 Brands: Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-Le Coultre, Franck Muller, IWC TOURNEAU CENTURY CITY Shopping Center., 10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, #103 Los Angeles, CA 90067 (310) 553-8463 Brand: Panerai TOURNEAU Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, #103 Los Angeles, CA 90067 (310) 553-8463 Brands: IWC, Baume & Mercier WESTIME 3832 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, CA 90265 (310) 456-2555 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Louis Moinet, Zenith and others TRADITIONAL JEWELERS 817 Newport

Center Drive Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 721-9010 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Rolex and others SHREVE & CO. 329 Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto, CA 94304 (650) 327-2211 Brands: Corum, IWC, Omega, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex and others BEN BRIDGE 7007 Friars Road #543 San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 291-7572 4505 La Jolla Village Drive, #C-19 San Diego, CA 92122 (858) 453-9996 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe, and others TOURNEAU 7007 Friars Road, #358A San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 296-8463 Brands: Cartier, Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Montblanc, Panerai and others

SHREVE & CO 200 Post Street San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 421-2600 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and others TOURNEAU 845 Market Street, #129 San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 974-1846 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, TAG Heuer, Tudor BRYANT & SONS 812 State Street Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 966-9187 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe BEN BRIDGE 395 Santa Monica Place, #132 Santa Monica, CA 90401 (310) 458-4550 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others

COLORADO HYDE PARK 3000 E. 1st Avenue, #243 Denver, CO 80206 (303) 333-4446 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and others OSTER JEWELERS 251 Steele Street, Cherry Creek N Denver, CO 80206 (303) 572-1111 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Dior, Ulysse Nardin and others BETTERIDGE JEWELERS 141 E. Meadow Drive Vail, CO 81657 (970) 790-6560 Brands: Bell & Ross, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor and others CONNECTICUT Lux Bond & Green 140 Glastonbury Boulevard Glastonbury, CT 06033 (860) 659-8510 69 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 629-0900 Brands: Raymond

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Weil, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Victorinox Swiss Army and others

MANFREDI JEWELS 121 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 622-1414 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Breguet, F.P.Journe, Franck Muller, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin and others SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW 125 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Bremont, Nomos, Piaget, TAG Heuer

LUX BOND & GREEN 46 La Salle Road West Hartford, CT 06107 (860) 521-3015

King Jewelers 18265 Biscayne Boulevard Aventura, FL 33160 (305) 935-4900 Brands: Bell & Ross, Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis and others TOURNEAU 19575 Biscayne Boulevard, #567 Aventura, FL 33180 (305) 792-2298 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Tudor 9700 Collins Avenue, #210 Bal Harbour, FL 33154 (305) 866-4312 Brands: Franck Muller, JaegerLeCoultre, Tudor ALTIER JEWELERS 701 S. Federal Highway Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 395-3462 Brands: Cartier, Linde Werdelin, Patek Philippe and others LES BIJOUX 306 Plaza Real Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 361-2311 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels and others

TOURNEAU 320 San Lorenzo Avenue, #1225 Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 448-6878 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Cartier, Devon, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai and others LEVINSON & CO. INC. 888 E. Las Olas Boulevard Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301 (954) 462-8880 Brands: Bulgari, Franck Muller, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis and others MAYOR'S JEWELERS 7457 N. Kendall Drive Miami, FL 33156 (305) 667-7517 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor TOURNEAU 5494 Tamiani Trail N. Naples, FL 34108 (239) 591-1342 Brands: Baume &

Mercier, Frédérique Constant, Longines, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tourneau and others YAMRON 5555 Tamiami Trail North, Suite 11 Naples, FL 34108 (239) 592-7707 Brands: Breitling, Bugari, Harry Winston, IWC, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin MAYOR'S 4200 Conroy Road, #180 Orlando, FL 33431 (407) 363-5740 Brands: Frédérique Constant, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor MAYOR'S 8001 S. Orange Blossom Trail, #484 Orlando, FL 32809 (407) 859-3116 Brands: Breitling, Bulgari, Cartier, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor HAMILTON JEWELERS 215 Worth Avenue Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 659-6788 Brands: Breguet, Bulgari, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren TOURNEAU 175 Worth Avenue Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 832-8812 Brands: Breitling, Cartier, Devon, Longines, Patek Philippe, Rolex and others

HAMILTON JEWELERS The Gardens Mall, 3101 PGA Boulevard Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 775-3600 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others

GEORGIA

TOURNEAU 3101 PGA Boulevard Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 694-6028 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Omega, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Victorinox Swiss Army and others

BEN BRIDGE JEWELER 1450 Ala Moana Boulevard, #2212B Honolulu, HI 96814 (808) 955-0177 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe, and others

MAYOR'S 40 University Town Center Drive Sarasota, FL 34243 (941) 893-1124 Brands: Breitling, Rolex, TAG Heuer MAYORS 2223 N. West Shore Boulevard, #165 Tampa, FL 33607 (813) 354-8080 Brands: Breitling, Bvlgari, Cartier, Frédérique Constant, IWC, Panerai, Tudor WESTON JEWELERS 1728 Main Street Weston, FL 33326 (954) 389-7990 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Chopard, Dior, Hublot, Montblanc and others

TOURNEAU 3393 Peachtree Road NE, #3082 Atlanta, GA 30326 (404) 760-1883 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Chopard, IWC, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin HAWAII

TOURNEAU 2301 Kalakaua Avenue, #101 Honolulu, HI 96815 (808) 922-4111 Brands: Blancpain, Devon, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and others ILLINOIS TOURNEAU 835 N. Michigan Avenue, 3rd Floor Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 266-7600 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer and others TRABERT & HOEFFER 111 E. Oak Street Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 787-1654 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Franck

Muller, JaegerLeCoultre, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and others C. D. PEACOCK Northbrook Court Northbrook, IL 60062 (847) 564-8030 Oakbrook Center Oakbrook, IL 60523 (630) 571-5355 Woodfield Mall Schaumburg, IL 60173 (847) 619-6560 Old Orchard Center Skokie, IL 60077 (847) 679-1837 Brands: Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer and others KANSAS TIVOL 4721 W. 119th Street Overland Park, KS 66209 (913) 345-0200 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, David Yurman, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Rolex and others MARYLAND RADCLIFFE JEWELERS 1848 Reisterstown Road Baltimore, MD 21208 (410) 484-2900 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin and others

T OP R ETA I L E R S

LUX BOND & GREEN 1 Mohegan Sun Boulevard Uncasville, CT 06382 (860) 862-9900 Brands: Breitling, Cellini, Montblanc, Rolex, TAG Heuer

FLORIDA

MAYOR'S JEWELERS 6000 Glades Road, #1119 Boca Raton, FL 33431 (561) 368-6022 342 San Lorenzo Avenue, #1000 Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 446-1233 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Dior, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer and others

THE LIST

BETTERIDGE JEWELERS 117 Greenwich Avenue Glastonbury, CT 06033 (203) 869-0124 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren and others

136 Main Street Westport, CT 06107 (203) 227-1300 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor

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LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD 7101 Democracy Boulevard, #2325 Bethesda, MD 20817 (800) 719-1190 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe and others RADCLIFFE 825 Dulaney Valley Road, #196 Towson, MD 21204 (410) 321-6590 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Hermès, IWC, TAG Heuer, Tudor and others MASSACHUSETTS

T OP R ETA I L E R S

ROYAL JEWELERS 58 Main Street Andover, MA 01810 (978) 475-3330 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer and others LUX BOND & GREEN 416 Boylston Street Boston, MA 02116 (617) 266-4747 Brands: Cellini, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW 39 Newbury Street Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-9100 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain,IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and others TOURNEAU Copley Plaza, 100 Huntington

Avenue, #D-13 Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-8463 Burlington Mall, 75 Middlesex Turnpike, #1205 Burlington, MA 01803 (781) 272-8463 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor and others SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW 232 Boylston Street Chestnut Hill, MA 02467 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, IWC LUX BOND & GREEN 60 Central Street Wellesley, MA 02482 (781) 235-9119 Brands: Raymond Weil, Rolex, Victorinox Swiss Army and others MICHIGAN DARAKJIAN JEWELERS 101 Willits Street Birmingham, MI 48009 (888) 843-6659 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc, Ulysse Nardin and others TAPPER'S 27716 Novi Road Novi, MI 48377 (248) 465-1800 6337 Orchard Lake Road W. Bloomfield, MI 48322 (248) 932-7700

Brands: David Yurman, Omega, Raymond Weil, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer and others

David Yurman, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor and others

TAPPER'S 2800 W. Big Beaver Troy, MI 48084 (248) 649-2000 Brands: Breitling, IWC, Panerai, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer

NEVADA

MINNESOTA BEN BRIDGE 136 West Market Bloomington, MN 55425 (952) 814-9356 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others WIXON JEWELERS 9955 Lyndale Avenue South Bloomington, MN 55420 (952) 881-8862 Brands: Baume & Mercier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor MISSOURI CLARKSON JEWELERS 1306-C Clarkson/ Clayton Center Ellisville, MO 63011 (636) 227-2006 Brands: Carl F. Bucherer, Frédérique Constant, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor and others TIVOL 220 Nicols Road Kansas City, MO 64112 (816) 531-5800 Brands: Cartier,

BEN BRIDGE 1300 W. Sunset Road, Space 2621 Henderson, NV 89014 (702) 456-8807 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others BELLUSSO AT THE PALAZZO 3325 Las Vegas Boulevard S., #1702 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (602) 650-2988 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Vacheron Constantin and others BEN BRIDGE 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard S., #1490 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0003 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others HOROLOGIO FINE WATCHES 3377 S. Las Vegas Boulevard, #2265 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0016 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breitling, Franck Muller, Omega, Ulysse Nardin and others

ROMAN TIMES JEWELERS 3500 Las Vegas Boulevard, #D10A Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-8687 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Franck Muller, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin and others TOURNEAU TIME DOME 3500 Las Vegas Boulevard S., #F-07 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 732-8463 Brands: Bremont, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin and others WYNN LAS VEGAS 3131 Las Vegas Boulevard S. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 770-3520 Brands: Bovet, Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and others NEW JERSEY THE TIMEPIECE COLLECTION 58 East Palisade Avenue Englewood, NJ 07631 (201) 894-1825 Brands: Audemars Piguet, GirardPerregaux, Harry Winston, Hermès, Omega, TAG Heuer and others HAMILTON JEWELERS 92 Nassau Street

Princeton, NJ 08542 (609) 683-4200 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer and others

Whitman Road, #1055D Huntington Station, NY 11746 (631) 427-2649 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor and others

NEW YORK LONDON JEWELERS 2 Main Street East Hampton, NY 11937 (631) 329-3939 Brands: Patek Philippe, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor TOURNEAU 630 Old Country Road, #1100 Garden City, NY 11530 (516) 873-0209 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor and others LONDON JEWELERS 28 School Street Glen Cove, NY 11542 (516) 671-3154 Brands: Patek Philippe, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor and others

LONDON JEWELERS 2046 Northern Boulevard Manhasset, NY 10030 (516) 627-7475 Brands: Patek Philippe, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor and others CELLINI 509 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 888-0505 The Waldorf Astoria, 301 Park Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 751-9824 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin

LONDON JEWELERS 180 Wheatley Plaza Greenvale, NY 11548 (516) 621-8844 Brands: Patek Philippe, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor and others

TOURNEAU 510 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-5830 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, Tudor

TOURNEAU The Walt Whitman Mall, 160 Walt

TOURNEAU TIMEMACHINE 12 E. 57th Street

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New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-7300 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Devon, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Rolex, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin and others

TOURNEAU 125 Westchester Avenue, #2340A White Plains, NY 10601 (914) 397-2301 Brands: Ball, Breitling, Cartier, Dior, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Tudor and others

WINDSOR JEWELERS 526 S. Stratford Road Winston-Salem, NC 27103 (336) 721-1768 Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin and others OHIO MANN, INC. 26300 Cedar Road Beachwood, OH 44122 (216) 831-1119 Brands: Patek Philippe, Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai OREGON BEN BRIDGE Washington Square, 9518 SW Washington Square Portland, OR 97223 (503) 603-1285 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others SHREVE & CO. 640 Southwest Broadway

PENNSYLVANIA GOVBERG JEWELERS 65 St. James Place Ardmore, PA 19003 (610) 664-1715 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Dior, Panerai, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin and others TOURNEAU 160 N. Gulph Road, #1078 King of Prussia, PA 19406 (610) 491-8801 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor and others GOVBERG JEWELERS 1521 Walnut Street Philadelphia, PA 19102 (215) 546-6505 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and others TENNESSEE KING JEWELERS 4121 Hillsboro Pike Nashville, TN 37215 (615) 724-5464 Brands: Cartier,

Chanel, IWC, Jaquet Droz, Rolex, TAG Heuer and others TEXAS TOURNEAU Pentagon City, Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, 1100 S. Hayes Street, H03A VA Arlington, TX 22202 (703) 414-8463 Brands: TAG Heuer BEN BRIDGE Barton Creek Square Mall, 2901 S. Capitol of TX Highway, #J10A Austin, TX 78746 (512) 329-9066 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe, and others BEN BRIDGE The Domain, 3401 Esperanza Crossing, #106 Austin, TX 78758 (512) 491-8014 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others BACHENDORF'S 8400 Preston Road Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 692-8400 Brands: Chanel, Chopard, IWC, Montblanc, Omega, TAG Heuer and others BEN BRIDGE 8687 N. Central Express, #1456 Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-2277 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet,

Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others

EISEMAN JEWELERS 8687 N. Central Express, #514 Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-6100 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and others

BEN BRIDGE 5135 W. Alabama, #7130 Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-1998 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe, and others

TOURNEAU 3350 N. Dallas Parkway, #1205 Dallas, TX 75240 (972) 661-1503 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton and others BEN BRIDGE 7040 N. Mesa Street El Paso, TX 79912 (915) 584-4700 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others BEN BRIDGE 303 Memorial City Mall, #708 Houston, TX 77024 (713) 935-9499 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others BEN BRIDGE 1096 Willowbrook Mall Houston, TX 77070 (281) 894-5799 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet,

TOURNEAU 5015 Westheimer Road, #2310 (713) 871-8282 Houston, TX 77056 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin and others ZADOK JEWELERS 1749 Post Oak Boulevard Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-8950 Brands: Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin and others TOURNEAU 15900 La Cantera Parkway, #2275 San Antonio, TX 78256 (210) 694-5654 Brands: Cartier, Christian Dior, Frédérique Constant, Maurice Lacroix, Panerai, Tudor and others

Drive Mclean, VA 22102 (703) 448-6731 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others WASHINGTON BEN BRIDGE 143 Bellevue Square Bellevue, WA 908004 (425) 454-9927 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others BEN BRIDGE JEWELER 1432 4th Avenue Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 628-6800 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others

T OP R ETA I L E R S

LONDON JEWELERS 47 Main Street South Hampton, NY 11968 (631) 287-4499 Brands: Panerai and others

WINDSOR JEWELERS 6809-D Phillips Place Court Charlotte, NC 28210 (704) 556-7747 Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin and others

Portland, OR 97205 (971) 295-5555 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Panerai, Patek Philippe and others

THE LIST

WEMPE 700 Fifth Avenue @55th Street New York, NY 10019 (212) 397-9000 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Chopard, Glashütte Original, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Montblanc, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin and others

NORTH CAROLINA

VIRGINIA LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD JEWELERS Tysons Galleria, 2001 International

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HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

WATCH JOURNAL

Alarm Automatic Movement Chronograph Rattrapante Chronograph Dual Time Equation of Time Flyback Chronograph GMT Annual Calendar Perpetual Calendar Simple Calendar Minute Repeater Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon Moon Phase Power Reserve Grand Complication Jumping Hour World Time Escapement Balance Wheel Gear Train Tachymeter Telemeter Pulsometer Big Date Retrograde Display Rotor Unidirectional Bezel 154

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HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

Perpetual Calendar [p r-'pe-ch -w l\] [\'ka-l n-d r\] P E R P E T UA L C A L E N DA R

A high complication that allows the timepiece to accurately display the day, date and month, taking into account the leap year. A perpetual calendar takes account of the leap year cycle with its months comprising 31, 30 or 28 days, and the quadrennial February 29th. In the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar, the month and leap year are displayed on a 48-month subdial at 12 o’clock, with the date at 3 o’clock and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. The Patrimony also features an additional complication, a moon phase indication at 6 o’clock.

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HUMOR

WA T C H J O U R N A L

JAMIE GOODMAN

“Sorry, Captain, we can’t go any closer. My watch is only resistant to black holes up to 100 meters.”

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Deep Dive Automatic Series No. 1513: ISO 6425 Certified, 44mm stainless steel case, patent-pending locking bezel/crown protector, screw case back and screw down crown, helium release valve, double thick sapphire crystal with antireflective coatings, integrated signature PU strap with extender for wetsuit, water resistant to 500 meters, Superluminova dial markings and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of professional divers.

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

@watch j

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h journal Watch Journal is now on Instagram and Facebook

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BR-X1

THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPH The BR-X1 is the perfect synthesis of Bell & Rossâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expertise in the world of aviation watches and master watchmaking: an instrument with an innovative design, produced in a limited edition of only 250 pieces. Lightweight and resistant, the grade 5 titanium case of the BR-X1 is protected by a high-tech ceramic bezel with a rubber strap. Ergonomic and innovative, the push buttons allow the chronograph functions to be used easily and efficiently. Sophisticated and reliable, the skeleton chronograph movement of the BR-X1 is truly exceptional and combines haute horlogerie finishes with extreme lightness. Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com | Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content

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Breguet, the innovator. High frequency and high precision

A concentrated blend of horological innovations, the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with its balance fitted on magnetic pivots and operating at a frequency of 10 Hz achieves an average rate of -1 to +3 seconds per day. Notably thanks to complete mastery of silicon properties and magnetism, this new milestone in the field of high-precision mechanical watchmaking embodies the spirit of innovation of Abraham-Louis Breguet. History is still being written...

BREGUET BOUTIQUES – NEW YORK 646 692-6469 – BEVERLY HILLS BAL HARBOUR

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3 0 5 8 6 6 - 10 6 1 – L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 7 3 3 - 74 3 5 – T O L L F R E E 8 7 7 - 4 0 3 - 8 1 6 2 – W W W . B R E G U E T . C O M

21.11.14 09:30 09/02/2015 21:02