Watch Journal January/February 2016 by Watch Journal

Volume 19, N 1

All That’s Good in Time

The Arts Issue

Watch Journal Featuring: The Roger Dubuis Blossom Velvet Blue

Jan/Feb 2016

$10 USD

02 >

Also: Dial Artistry at Its Best. Quebec’s Modern Horological Treasure. The Mystery of Marquetry. Aventurine’s Remarkable Versatility. Philanthropy: In Aid of AIDS. A First Look at SIHH.

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Contents DEPARTMENTS 10 Masthead

CONTENTS

12 Editor’s Letter 16 Intelligence 26 Happenings 36 Profile Efraim Grinberg, Noel Cowell, Andrew Waldan 42 Collector Robert Lee Morris, Charles Curkin 46 Play Franco’s Bar at Le Sirenuse, Italy 47 Stay Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina, Bogotá 48 Getaway

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Contents FEATURES 66 Roger Dubuis

CONTENTS

Introducing the Blossom Velvet Blue. 74 Style Marvelous Mechanics: Skeletonized watches highlight their movements as works of art. 84 Philanthropy Chopard leads the pack with an ethically-sourced gold initiative and supports AIDS research. 90 A Big-Time Clock Richard Mille is commissioned by the Canton of Jura, Switzerland to build a municipal clock as a gift to the city of Quebec. 96 A Landmark in Complication How the team at Vacheron Constantin created the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most complicated watch. 102 Substance Aventurine, a form of quartz, is used by watchmakers to evoke the starry skies. 106 Manufacture

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A look at the art of miniature dial paintings. 110 Legacy Cartierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regal heritage. 116 Guide Watch Terminology, Top Retailers in the Country, Horological Humor.

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Watch Journal

MASTHEAD

Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg SALES AND MARKETING

EDITORIAL

Publisher John Clarkin

Editor in Chief Hyla Bauer

Advertising Directors Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo

International Editor Keith W. Strandberg Associate Creative Director Michael Ryterband

Events Coordinator Simon Swig

Assistant Editor Edward Lord

OPERATIONS

Designers Taylor Givens Nancy Ng

Controller Miles Bingham Finance & Operations Manager Braden Bradford

Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon

Business Development Manager Laurie Sadove

Editor at Large Spencer Bailey

WATCH JOURNAL LLC

Associate Travel Editor Nate Storey

Board of Directors Eric Crown Marc Lotenberg Adam Sandow

Associate Fashion Editor Courtney Kenefick Contributing Writer Carol Besler

Founding Publisher Glen B. Bowen

Creative Consultants NoĂŤ & Associates INTERN Logan Baker

ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE

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Watch Journal LLC 601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507 New York, NY 10001 info@watchjournal.com ONLINE

#watchjournal www.watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournalmagazine SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15 / International: $30 Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99 ISSN N 2325-4130 Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal LLC. Copyright 2015, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal. Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com.

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Editor’s Letter

EDITOR’S LET TER

The Art of Time When it comes to watchmaking, the artistic crafts are invaluable tools of distinction. A watch, at its core, has a basic function: telling time. Beyond this basic, its visual appeal and attraction comes in the form of the appearance of the dial, the casing, and the strap. This is where designers, artists, and craftsmen step in: to make a functional object visually appealing. Within these categories, there are endless possibilities for design and artistic expression. Colors, metals, textures, forms, can all be employed in the design of a watch, even on its tiny scale. Indeed, the artisans and craftsmen who decorate these extremely small pieces have a knack for invention that is rare in this world. Artists have long been inventors as well, out of necessity to make something new each time they create a piece of art. Leonardo da Vinci is a supreme example of art meeting invention: he envisioned (and drew) flying machines, helicopters, canons, and even scuba gear. Likewise, watch brands and the artists who work with them are constantly inventing new ways to decorate our fine timepieces. In this issue, we celebrate the artistry of Roger Dubuis and its new Velvet collection unveiled this month. This year Roger Dubuis will place a large focus on ladies timepieces, and its artisans have created a new way to work with enamel, as we reveal in our story by Keith Strandberg, page 66. Skeletonizing a movement takes carving and polishing to miniscule dimensions, and the results are breathtaking. We’ve photographed some outstanding examples in our Style section, page 74. Chopard’s philanthropic efforts are also detailed in this issue. From the responsible sourcing of gold both on a human level and an environmental one, to the support of those living with AIDS alongside the Elton John Foundation, this company is firmly committed to giving back. A recently-published book by Franco Cologni has a very apt title “The Artists of Time.” While this book focuses on Vacheron Constantin’s outstanding artistry, it also serves to reiterate the role of art in creating timepieces. Timekeeping indeed has fostered the continuation of many traditional artistic crafts and pushed the boundaries with new materials and ever more fanciful, elaborate, or just downright elegant designs. Happy New Year!

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—Hyla Bauer Editor in Chief

“The artisans and craftsmen who decorate these extremely small pieces have a knack for invention that is rare in this world.” 12

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INTELLIGENCE

A PERPETUAL MACHINE Swiss watchmaker MB&F, creator of what the brand prefers to call “horological machines” as opposed to simply wristwatches, recently released perhaps its most complicated piece to date: the Legacy Machine Perpetual. The new model in the brand’s Legacy Machine line features a 581-component perpetual calendar caliber with a revolutionary new way for calculating the number of days in each month. Unlike traditional perpetual calendars which use a 31-day month as the default and remove superfluous days for months with fewer days by essentially fast-forwarding through extra days during changeover, MB&F’s utilizes a “mechanical processor,” a stacked-gear system, in lieu of the conventional grand levier, which assumes a default 28day month and adds extra days as required. As a result of this, each month has exactly the number of days required, so there is no fast-forwarding or skipping through days, minimizing the risk of the date jumping incorrectly. mbandf.com

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INTELLIGENCE

ABOVE: The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual BELOW: Detail of the Legagy Machine Perpetual's movement

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THE BEAT GOES ON

INTELLIGENCE

Speake-Marin’s new creation, the Dong Son Tourbillon, features a red gold dial and a center etched to leave a relief motif inspired by the prehistoric bronze drums of the ancient Dong Son people of Vietnam. The intricate dial is contained in the drum-like 38mm Piccadilly case in 18k red gold. The piece features signature Speake-Marin accents such as heatblued hands and a fluted crown (which is in this piece set with a diamond). At the watch’s core is a self-winding caliber featuring a 60-second tourbillon, visible at the 6 o’clock location, with a 72-hour power reserve. speake-marin.com

EXOTOURBILLON EXCELLENCE For the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2016, starting on January 18, Montblanc has revealed one of the watches it will be presenting: the TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Limited Edition 100. Montblanc’s new iteration of its popular TimeWalker line equips the classic but highly modern timepiece with the brand’s exclusive in-house patented ExoTourbillon. The ExoTourbillon has been included in a number of pieces in the Maison’s Heritage Chronométrie line, but this is a first for the TimeWalker collection. The 'Exo' in ExoTourbillon refers to the screw balance, which is positioned outside of the tourbillon’s rotating cage, allowing the cage to be smaller in size and free of the weight of the balance, saving energy and negating any effect the inertia of the cage has on the balance. montblanc.com

ABOVE: The Speake-Marin Dong Son Tourbillon RIGHT: The Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Limited Edition 100

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TRIPLE TIME

RIGHT: The Piaget Limelight Stella BELOW: Piaget brand ambassador Jessica Chastain wearing the Limelight Stella

INTELLIGENCE

At the upcoming Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie fair in Geneva, Swiss manufacture Piaget will present three of its newest timepieces, the Emperador XL 700P, the Limelight Gala Milanese and the Limelight Stella. The Emperador Coussin XL 700P is a 118-piece limited series concept watch featuring an uncommon pairing of a mechanical calibre and generator, creating the new 700P movement; The generator electronically regulates the self-winding caliber with a quartz component that controls the rotation of the generator and wheels train, ensuring high precision and resistance to magnetic fields and gravity. The Limelight Gala is an exquisitely feminine watch, with a bezel set with gently graded round diamonds and a simple dial elegantly punctuated by slender Roman numerals. Finally, the Limelight Stella, another stunning ladies timepiece, features a lunar theme with a moon phase complication that occupies a fan-shaped aperture on the upper portion of the dial, hemmed by two lines set with 14 brilliant-cut diamondsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the moon stands out against a deepblue star-studded backdrop depicting the sky chart of the Northern Hemisphere. piaget.com

INTELLIGENCE

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MONKEYING AROUND Chopard recently unveiled a new series of its L.U.C XP line dedicated to the Chinese new year, beginning on February 8, 2016, which is the year of the monkey according to the Chinese zodiac calendar. The Urushi-lacquered dial of the remarkable piece, hand-crafted in Japan by a master lacquer artist, depicts a monkey gathering peaches; The scene, drawn from Chinese iconography, is popular in the Chinese zodiac and is believed to bring good fortune, as the peach symbolizes good healthâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;also, the number of peaches depicted on the dial, eight, is considered a lucky number. Urushi-lacquer comes from the sap of the Japanese varnish tree, which is harvested, aged and treated to become a transparent lacquer that is then applied in extremely fine layers. To create the stunning dial of this piece, Chopard worked with the firm Yamada Heiando, official purveyor to the Japanese imperial family. The watch features an inhouse ultra-thin self-winding movement, measuring just 3.30mm thick, and is powered by a 22-carat gold microrotor, achieving an impressive 65-hour power reserve when fully wound. chopard.com

ABOVE: The L.U.C XP Urushi Monkey being assembled. RIGHT: The L.U.C XP Urushi Monkey OPPOSITE: The Urushi Monkey dial being drawn and enameled

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INTELLIGENCE

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SAFETY FIRST

INTELLIGENCE

Watches often get stolen, and in today’s marketplace, and with so many ways to buy a pre-owned watch, it has never been more important to determine whether a watch has been swiped from its rightful owner. To help identify pilfered watches, the Art Loss Register, the world's largest private database of stolen art and collectibles, recently launched the Watch Register for stolen timepieces. On the website, after entering the watch model and serial number, the Watch Register will search its database of over 50,000 watches.The Watch Register is designed for watch dealers, pawn brokers and anyone buying or selling preowned watches—additionally, people can register watches that they have had stolen. “Christie’s and Sotheby’s are shareholders, and we check all their watches.” says Katya Hills, manager at The Watch Register. “We need people to register their losses so that customers can check against the database,” she continues. “But, our database is still a very small portion of what is stolen. We proactively contact police about thefts and try to get the serial numbers of the watches stolen. Not every watch has a serial number, so ones that don’t have a serial number, we check against an image, or see if there are unique features (like customization and engravings).” thewatchregister.com

BLOOMING BEAUTY Jaquet Droz recently unveiled a stunning new timepiece, the Lady 8 Flower, which features a breathtaking mechanical animation of a blossoming lotus flower. The watch is made up of two superimposed circles, creating a figure of eight, symbolizing harmony, perfection and infinity. The lower circle, where the time is displayed, features a butterfly, available in two versions, one with the butterfly’s wings painted and engraved in translucent red enamel on guilloché background, and the other incorporating jewels, with the butterfly set with blue sapphires and portrayed against snow-set diamonds. The upper circle holds a lotus flower under a sapphire crystal dome—at the push of a button, the lotus flower opens, revealing the diamond at its heart. The timepiece presented a technical challenge for the brand, as it needed to accommodate the two mechanism that drive the piece, the watch’s and the automaton’s, within a relatively small 35mm case. jaquet-droz.com

ABOVE: A Cartier Baignoire watch RIGHT: The Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower OPPOSITE: Painting the Lady 8 Flower's butterfly and assembling the lotus flower

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INTELLIGENCE

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EXOTIC ART Two years after Vacheron Constantin launched their Métier d’Art Fabuleux Ornements collection, the brand has added to the line with four new models that reinterpret the traditional artforms of Ottoman architecture, Chinese embroidery, Indian manuscripts and French lacework. Ten master artisans were enlisted to realize these stunning creations, employing openworking and a combination of artistic crafts to evoke the art form that inspired each piece The “Indian manuscript” piece is created with Grand Feu champlevé enameling and hand engraving. The “Ottoman architecture” piece features hand chamfering, natural white mother-of-pearl base and a gold gridwork studed with half-pearl beads. The “French lacework” watch has a translucent hand-guilloché Grand Feu–enamelled dial. Finally, the “Chinese embroidery” timepiece is crafted in pink gold with a dial sculpted from mother-of-pearl and features hand-engraved gold leaves and pistils. vacheron-constantin.com

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Fabuleux Ornements Indian Manuscript, French Lace, Chinese Embroidery and Ottoman Architecture RIGHT: Detail of the Métiers d'Art Fabuleux Ornements Chinese Embroidery

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TRUE BRIT

INTELLIGENCE

Roger W. Smith, Isle of Man–based creator of entirely British-made timepieces, unveiled its first range of watches in London at Salon QP in November. The range includes four lines, titled Series 1, 2, 3 and 4. Roger Smith said of the launch, “it is almost the fifteenth anniversary of the first production wristwatches issued by the Roger W. Smith Studio in 2001; namely the Series 1. Since then, having first developed and then stayed true to our ethos of hand-crafting all components within our studio, we have produced just 80 pieces.” Also shown at the launch was the brand’s unique GREAT Britain watch, which has been traveling the world over the past 18 months, making stops in various locales including Shanghai and Paris, to celebrate British innovation and craftsmanship. rwsmithwatches.com

RIGHT: The Roger W. Smith Series 4 BELOW: Roger Smith in the studio

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

JAM AT THE PAMM Watch Journal’s sister publication, Surface magazine, kicked off Art Basel Miami 2015 with a bang by co-hosting an exclusive evening with Swiss watchmaker GirardPerregaux at the Perez Art Museum Miami. The evening, which honored real estate developer Jorge M. Pérez (from whom the museum gets its name) featured a lavish dinner and performance by musician Wyclef Jean. The dinner was held on the veranda of the museum overlooking Biscayne Bay. In keeping with the watchmaking theme, the tables’ decoration was inspired by the bridges of Girard-Perregaux’s Neotourbillon watch, and was created by architectural studio ArandaLasch in collaboration with Neal Fay. Guests attending the exclusive event included prominent artists and collectors, including Mario Testino, Jean Pigozzi and Marcel Wanders among others. Members of the Miami Symphony Orchestra performed during cocktails and dinner before Jean took to the stage, serenading the guests with favorites “Gone Till November,” “No Woman, No Cry,” and “Killing Me Softly.”

LEFT: Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer, and Tom Brady BELOW: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01

girard-perregaux.com OPPOSITE: The seated dinner featuring tablescapes inspired by Girard-Perregaux's Neotourbillon watch ABOVE: Girard-Perregaux exhibited rare timepieces at the event RIGHT: Jorge Pérez and Wyclef Jean

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

GLOBAL BONDING Audemars Piguet celebrated its global sponsorship of Art Basel with a cocktail reception at the brand’s bespoke artist design stand in the Art Basel Miami 2015 Collector’s Lounge. The installation at the stand, called “Mineral Lab” consisted of living moss plants set in a wall, with a bespoke sound installation by Alexandre Joly entitled “Wild Constellations.” Audemars Piguet is a global Associate Partner of Art Basel, with involvement in all three of its annual show locations—Basel, Miami, and Hong Kong. “Over the past three years we have been able to develop our artistic initiatives in the context of our partnership with Art Basel,” said Olivier Audemars, Vice-Chairman of the board of directors. “These projects have become a real source of inspiration for us.” audemarspiguet.com

ABOVE: Audemar Piguet's stand at Art Basel Miami RIGHT: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

WATCH JOURNAL

ART SUPPORT

LEFT: Peter M. Brant holds his award BELOW: Montblanc North America CEO Mike Giannattasio, sculpter Urs Fischer, and actress Sienna Miller

HAPPENINGS

In November, Montblanc honored Peter M. Brant in the 24th anniversary of the Montblanc de la Culture Arts Patronage Awards ceremony. The event, held at the New York restaurant Kappo Masa at the request of Brant, was attended by art-world luminaries including gallerist Vincent Fremont, artist Jonathan Horowitz, and auctioneer Tobias Meyer. Actress Sienna Miller presented the honor, and praised Brant’s achievements as a philanthropist and patron of the arts. Brant, who started collecting art at the age of eighteen, said of the award, “It’s a great honor for me to be recognized by people in the arts for something that I really have always loved doing my whole life. I was very encouraged and surprised they chose me, [Montblanc’s] involvement in the arts is exemplary and I hope many other corporations take an active involvement in supporting the arts.” montblanc.com

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

HIGH DESIGN Officine Panerai hosted cocktails and dinner to celebrate the prestigious Design Miami/Design Visionary Award during the annual Design Miami show in Miami, Florida. This year’s recipient of the award, Yves Béhar, is a Swiss designer with a focus on influencing social and environmental change. The event began with cocktails on the veranda of the Patricia Urquiola–designed Officine Panerai boutique, followed by a seated dinner. Officine Panerai CEO Angelo Bonati hosted the event, and presented Mr. Béhar with a custom-engraved Panerai timepiece to commemorate his award. The event was also attended by Patricia Urquiola, philanthropists Alina and Anthony Shriver, Jeffrey Soffer, and architect Mark Lee. Mr. Béhar’s new watch is the Panerai Luminor 1950 10 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica with a specially engraved caseback. This year marks the beginning of Panerai’s sponsorship of the Design Visionary Award. panerai.com

BELOW, LEFT: The caseback of the Design Visionary Award Panerai Luminor 1950 BELOW, RIGHT: The table setting at the celebration OPPOSITE, ABOVE: Rodman Primack, Yves Béhar, Craig Robins and Angelo Bonati

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

ARTISTIC CELEBRATIONS Hublot recently celebrated the 10th anniversary of its iconic Big Bang watch with a gala at the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo. Over 200 guests attended the gala, in which commemorative limited-edition models such as the Big Bang Unico 10 Years High Jewelry and Big Bang Unico Magic Gold, both of which were released earlier this year to mark the anniversary, were showcased. Additionally, guests viewed works from the five finalists of the Hublot Design Prize, which was created to celebrate the anniversary and enable young designers to generate public recognition for their creations. Attendees included Hublot chairman JeanClaude Biver, winners of the Design Prize, brand ambassadors including iconic footballer Pelé and Formula 1 driver Sebastian Vettel, and other friends of the company. In other news in the world of Hublot, the brand’s campaign to support the arts, “Hublot Loves Art,” partnered with Brazilian pop artist Romero Britto to host an art installation and charity event at the Hublot Galerie boutique in Miami’s Design District. Britto, who collaborated with Hublot on a watch earlier in 2015, the Classic Fusion Enamel Britto, curated the show, including the unveiling of the artist’s new pieces of mixed-media artwork. A portion of the event’s proceeds were donated to Best Buddies International, a global nonprofit that assists with leadership development and employment opportunities for people with intellectual and developmental disabilities, which Hublot began a partnership with this year. hublot.com

ABOVE: Romero Britto talks to party guests BELOW: The Hublot Classic Fusion Enamel Britto OPPOSITE, ABOVE: The Big Bang 10th anniversary gala in New York OPPOSITE, BELOW: Andrew Luff of TimeZone talks with Hublot chairman Jean-Claude Biver

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

PROMOTION

Watches To Watch IWC

Vacheron Constantin

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EFRAIM GRINBERG

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

EFRAIM GRINBERG

The CEO and Chairman of the Movado Group talks about what makes him tick.

WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

brands around the world,” Grinberg says. “There is a lot of love for these brands and we are fortunate that we can make their watches. I get inspired by all this and the creative people I get to work with.”

“Watches are one of the great accessories that both men and women can wear. There are trends that come and go, but fine watches are here to stay.” —Efraim Grinberg The creation of new products is one of the things Grinberg enjoys the most. “One of my favorite projects is the new Movado Edge collection, because we got to work with one of the world’s greatest industrial designers, Yves Béhar,” Grinberg details. “Béhar took the original Museum watch and figured out how to evolve it using the original as inspiration. I saw Béhar on a panel at the Aspen Ideas Festival talking about design in the 21st century. I knew he grew up in Lausanne, Switzerland, so I introduced myself after the panel, and asked

him if he ever thought about designing a watch. He said ‘yes’ with such enthusiasm, we started working on the project right away.” Grinberg is bullish on the future of the watch industry, while acknowledging the challenges facing global brands. “There are always regions and countries that are growing and others that aren’t,” he says. “You can really see the instability in parts of the world – some areas have been very volatile. What we try to do is offer the consumer a tremendous amount of innovation. “It’s important to me that people know that we have a long-term vision and we are very consumer focused,” he adds. “We listen to our consumers and we try to deliver products that they will love and have an emotional connection with. At a time when you are seeing a lot of utility in the watch category, it’s important for fine watches to have an emotional connection.” —Keith W. Strandberg

OPPOSITE: Efraim Grinberg ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Movado Bold, Movado Edge, Movado Edge chronograph

EFRAIM GRINBERG

Efraim Grinberg developed a love of watches naturally—he inherited it from his father, Gedalio “Gerry” Grinberg. The elder Grinberg founded the North American Watch Corporation, the US distributor for Piaget, which was the precursor to today’s Movado Group. “I grew up in watches, thanks to my father,” Grinberg says. “I knew you could do a lot of things to make a living, but there were very few jobs where I could make products that I loved and have an emotional connection to the consumer. “Watches are one of the great accessories that both men and women can wear,” he continues. “I am often asked if cell phones and smart phones will replace watches, and my answer is that there always have been more convenient and less expensive ways to tell time, yet people gravitate towards fine watches and it will continue to be this way. There are trends that come and go, but fine watches are here to stay.” Grinberg looks forward to going to work each day, anxious to continue to work on the Movado Group brands (Movado, Ebel, Concord and ESQ Movado) and its licensed brands (Scuderia Ferrari, Hugo Boss, Juicy Couture, Tommy Hilfiger and Coach). “I love that I get to work with great brands, not just our brands but also our licensed brands, which are tremendous, iconic

NO E L C OW E L L

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

NOEL COWELL

Behind The Scenes of Watch Placement in the Movies

WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

involvement in the First and Second World Wars, and with railroad watches. This fit really well with the story that was in front of us.” Often the use of watches in movies involves deal making and product placement, but that’s not something that Cowell concerns himself with. “I don’t choose the watches because of any deals, I choose the products I want,” he says. “After I have cho-

“It’s satisfying when I get the right watch for a character, no matter whether anyone else notices.” —Noel Cowell sen the products, then the production company contacts the brands about deals.” Cowell started out as a stagehand in the U.K., working backstage and hoisting scenery, then he worked at the BBC for ten years where he learned the props trade. After the BBC, he went freelance, opening up a whole new world for him in feature filmmaking.

“My work is fantastically varied,” he says. “I never know what the next project will be. Something set in the future gives me a lot more freedom, because making sure historical detail is accurate is one of the most important things we do, and we can do just about anything in the future.” Cowell loves watches—he has a Cartier Roadster with a black face and an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. “I really love them,” he says. “I wear my watches to work. They are tough as old boots. I really like choosing watches for the movies, as it is completely character-driven. It’s satisfying when I get the right watch for a character, no matter whether anyone else notices. It’s a detail that I want to get right. The actors like that I am thinking about their characters. I care about each character’s back story, why he’s wearing a certain watch, the pen he uses, why he drives the cars he drives.”” —Keith W. Strandberg

OPPOSITE: Noel Cowell ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: A still from The Martian, the Hamilton BelowZero 1000M Automatic

NO E L C OW E L L

On a movie production, a propmaster is in charge of everything an actor handles during the filming of that movie. A prop is anything an actor uses on camera, such as a gun, knife, pen or watch. As watches play more prominent roles in films, putting the right watches on the wrists of the main characters has become more important than ever before. “The first step for me is to interpret the movie script and break it down into a list of the props we need for the film,” says propmaster Noel Cowell. “All the items on my list then need to be sourced or designed. In the case of a watch, I’ll have my own interpretation of what that watch would be, and then I will talk to the production designer. We are always narrowing it down to get a short list that we can then present to the director.” The latest high profile watch he placed was in the Ridley Scott–helmed The Martian, starring Matt Damon. “In the case of The Martian, it’s an American hero story,” Cowell details. “We used Hamilton in the movie, but they weren’t the obvious choice—that would have been Omega with their Speedmaster Moonwatch. However, Hamilton has an iconic American branding, and their history in America is long and heroic, with their

A N D R E W WA L D A N

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

ANDREW WALDAN

The CEO of Waldan International discusses his company's history and his vision for the future. 40

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PROFILE

In 1979, Waldan opened a factory in Bienne, Switzerland and a watch repair center in New York. During the quartz crisis of the 1970s, Waldan bought up substantial inventory of complicated movements from brands like Zenith and Valjoux to use in their watches—several of their current watches still use retro movements acquired during the ’70s and ’80s. Originally,

“We’re a boutique-style company, and we want to keep that charm and identity" —Andrew Waldan the company almost exclusively manufactured watches for other brands, but ten years ago, they relaunched and focused on making Waldan-branded watches and a New York–based watch repair and servicing business. Today, Waldan produces five watch lines, including two chronographs, a world timer and a moonphase calendar. Andrew Waldan took the reins three years ago, following his father’s retirement for health reasons. He originally had a different career in mind: “I wanted to be a musician throughout college, and I pursued that, but when my father wasn’t doing so well, I dropped everything and moved back to New York. I spent day and night learning the operations,” explains Waldan. During his brief time at the helm, Waldan has expanded retail and distribution,

most recently opening in New York at Wempe Jewelers, and built the company’s e-commerce website from scratch and enhanced the brand’s digital presence. Additionally, he has been hard at work on the early stages of new watch designs: “We’re working on a tonneau-shaped watch with a moonphase as well as our first tourbillon,” says Waldan. He oversees all aspects of the company, from marketing to the watch repair business, personally: “I’m very hands on with the company—I kind of take after my father in that sense.” He stresses the company’s commitment to quality, especially when it comes to using plentiful amounts of precious metal, noting that “the case of the Chronograph Chronometer alone is made of 44 grams of solid gold.” His vision for the future? “Establish more distribution for Waldan, especially internationally. Also, to stay true to our core values. The watch industry has changed dramatically over the past decade, and we want to hold firm to the traditional art of fine watchmaking. We’re a boutique-style company, and we want to keep that charm and identity.” —Edward Lord

OPPOSITE: Andrew Waldan ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The Waldan International Chronograph Chronometer, Astronic Chronograph, World Time Chronometer

A N D R E W WA L D A N

“Classic execution, timeless appeal,” is how Andrew Waldan describes the ethos of his watch brand, Waldan International. The 23-year-old CEO was exposed to these values early on through his father, Oscar, who founded the company in 1979. In addition to life values, his father taught him watchmaking from when he was just ten years old: “Even when I was younger, around five years old, I would sit on the watchmakers’ laps and watch them work. When I got a little older, he started teaching me on a day-to-day basis, not just about how watches work, but also about how the business works,” says Waldan. The circumstances under which the older Waldan honed his craft gives the brand an inspiring and fascinating legacy. Born in the ’20s in Dobczyce, Poland, he first learned watchmaking by cleaning and repairing his father’s pocketwatch. During WWII, he was forced into a concentration camp; In the camp, he befriended a watchmaker who would repair the guards’ watches and thus was given better treatment. By apprenticing under the watchmaker, Waldan developed his skills and was also spared some abuse—moreover, he says it in part contributed to his survival. After liberation, he studied horology in Germany and then worked for Charles Tissot in Le Locle, Switzerland, where he submitted his first realized watch design, the Tissot Navigator. He eventually started working on the sales end as well, and after decades in the business he decided to branch out on his own.

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RO B E RT L E E M O R R I S

COLLECTOR

ROBERT LEE MORRIS Jewelry Designer and Artist

The renowned jeweler discusses his tastes in timepieces and the inspiration behind his designs.

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COLLECTOR

ON HIS CAREER The late 1960s, when I graduated Beloit College, were the days when crafts and art were often seen battling it out over whose work was more artistic. Using bold African glass beads and bold shapes of shiny brass or silver, I created a new kind of fun look that got all the editors and stylists to suddenly pay close attention to my unique and high fashion style. In 1974, I was the new jewelry maker in town, and I suddenly found all the high fashion editors and clothing designers were watching what I was doing … I ended up being at the right place at the right time with the right product for a market that was bored with the traditional status symbol of diamonds and was excited to jump into the fun fashion circus of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, etc. I feel my greatest accomplishment happened

a long time ago, in 1975, when I designed the Knuckle ring, and I saw a universe of potential. This one single ring became the “brand driver.” I see the discovery of a strong message in one iconic piece of jewelry that became the definition of my design philosophy for the remainder of my career. In 1977 I opened my own artist jewelry gallery, ARTWEAR, representing over 50 of the most artistic jewelry designers that I knew around the world. In 1983 I was asked by Donna Karan to collaborate with her and Louis Dell'Olio at Anne Klein. In 1985 I was asked by Donna again to follow her to her new company called Donna Karan Collection. This began a historically important collaboration between us that influenced the joint worlds of fashion and jewelry. Each and every collaboration has strengthened me and challenged me to move into new areas. Hanging onto my signature style while creating something new is something that only collaboration with a true design partner would allow. ON WATCHES My first Robert Lee Morris watch from 1996 had a slightly “Moon Crater” round, matte concave

face and no logo. It had a minimal number system, with raised dots, and was manufactured in sterling silver and leather by Swiss Watch Company in Switzerland. I can say that some of the watches I got were mistakes, but love was the power behind the gifts. One of my favorites is the Hermés square face with the double wrap leather strap. After all the glorious watches I have been given or have purchased, my own moon watch with a square face on an all silver band is the favorite of all my watches. Ultimately, it’s a boy’s game, the love of gadgets and functional machines that are to be worn; Jewelry, watches, buckles and hardware, chains and insignias, and the various ways it can be much like solving a puzzle. —As Told to Hyla Bauer

OPPOSITE: Robert Lee Morris. Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFA.com ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The Hermès Cape Cod watch, the Robert Lee Morris Knuckle ring, the 1981 Robert Lee Morris– designed watch

RO B E RT L E E M O R R I S

Robert Lee Morris is an acclaimed jewelry designer who also has an eye for watches (he has even designed a few in his day). Here, in his own words, are his perspectives on watches, art, and design during his 45 years in the business.

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CHARLES CURKIN SR.

COLLECTOR

CHARLES CURKIN SR.

A watch-lover explains the origins of his highly-eclectic collection.

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COLLECTOR

What appeals to Curkin about watches? “They’re artworks that serve a function.” Though he sticks to mechanical watches, it is not the mechanics of the watch that attracts him, but rather the tactile sensation of wearing one. “It’s simply the texture,” he says as he scratches his nail across the ridges of gold of the Boucheron Reflet. “It’s something to fiddle with.” There is only one watch that Curkin has his eyes on to add to his collection: a skeletonized Vacheron Constantin. “I have a Patek, I have an Audemars, I have a Piaget, but I don’t have a Vacheron,” he says. “I was brought up believing that was the holy foursome of watchmaking.” While he feels confident that his collection is likely finished, the door is always open, he says: “When opportunity knocks, you never know.” —Edward Lord

OPPOSITE: Charles Curkin ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Charles's Patek Philippe Calatrava, Cartier Tank, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and Boucheron Reflet

CHARLES CURKIN SR.

New York–based realtor Charles Curkin’s first watch was a black-faced Bucherer given to him by his parents when he was eight years old upon their return from a trip to Europe. It was the gold Patek Philippe watch that his father had purchased for himself, however, that first inspired Curkin’s life-long passion for timepieces. “It made my father very happy. And it was just so gold—I was eight years old, so to me this was a really cool watch.” He went on to develop a considerable collection. Curkin’s favorite watch, since the day he purchased it in 2001, has been his gold-and-stainless-steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. “I immediately fell in love with its unusual design at the time of its initial launch. I like the face and the bold look of it—It looks like a bank vault,” he remarks of his mainstay piece. “It is a constant source of pleasure.” “Before acquiring the Royal Oak, I tended to rotate dictated by my mood. Recently, I took out an old favorite, my Boucheron,” he explains. The gold Boucheron Reflet he refers to is characteristic of a subsection of Curkin’s highly diverse collection; Small, gold watches such as his Patek Philippe Calatrava Automatic and Cartier Tank occupy a segment of what is ultimately a supremely eclectic assortment. Robust stainless steel watches like a Bulgari with a steel bracelet and a 1968 ellipse-shaped Omega round out his collection.

FRANCO'S BAR

Photos: Courtesy Franco's bar

P L AY

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FRANCO’S BAR A new alfresco bar opens at the famed Le Sirenuse By Nate Storey

“Positano bites deep,” John Steinbeck wrote inside the pages of Harper’s Bazaar in 1953. Anyone who’s sauntered along the meandering, scooter-filled road that cuts through this cliffside Amalfi Coast hamlet knows exactly what the writer was talking about. Le Sirenuse, an iconic resort on the Amalfi Coast run by four brothers that has been a favorite among the jet set since it opened in 1951, might just have the most seductive view—highlighted by the tile-domed church below and the Tyrrhenian Sea beyond—in town. Now there’s a new place to take it in, with a flute of champagne in tow. Franco’s Bar, named for one of the owners who passed away in 2015, is located on a converted car lot above the hotel. Artisans were enlisted to transform the terrace into a stylish Mediterranean alfresco lounge, such as sculptor Giuseppe Ducrot, whose classic marble works can be found in the Vatican. He constructed a brilliant sunflower-yellow ceramic fountain

that’s offset by terracotta pots and designer-photographer Paolo Calcagni’s cushioned royal-blue chairs. The bathrooms add a touch of modern flair, with pop-culture artist Karl Holmqvist’s scrawls of Jay-Z lyrics on the mirrors. But the star of the show is, of course, the bubbly, which is served in the perfect vessel: Murano tumblers by glassmaker Laguna B, the indigo-colored stripes mirroring the azure bay below. sirenuse.it ABOVE: The entrance to Franco's Bar at Le Sirenuse BELOW: Giuseppe Ducrot's fountain and a view of the Tyrrhenian Sea FRANCO'S BAR 30 via Cristoforo Colombo Positano, Italy

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Photos: Courtesy Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina

S T AY

By Charles Curkin Jr.

Those who remember the era of ’80s excess may have a skewed vision of Colombia. Murderous cartels; dogged drug mules getting through customs; and Pablo Escobar’s smarmy-faced mugshot. In recent years, however, the South American country has cleaned up its act, drawing in more and more travellers. Enough so that Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts is setting up shop in the capital city: Bogotá. Casa Medina, which is situated in the city’s main shopping district, was built in 1946 as a tony apartment building, and was converted into a hotel in 1988. It’s a very intimate property, with 62 uniquely designed rooms and suites in all, fully restored by architect Milena Vargas. The hotel’s state-of-the-art spa offers an array of treatments with a Colombian flavor such as cacao and green coffee body wraps. Its location is ideal, only a short walk from the Botero and Gold museums and Zona G (for Gastronomy), a trendy neigh-

borhood known for being one of the city’s main culinary hubs. Castanyoles Raciones y Tapas, Casa Medina’s restaurant, fits right in with its selection of local coffees and international dishes like cocas, a pizza-like dish from Spain. Further signs that the Four Seasons is betting big on Bogotá: a sister property will open early this year in nearby Zona Rosa. fourseasons.com

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The reception. The hotel's wooden staircase. A guestroom. Four Seasons, Hotel Casa Medina 69a-22 Avenida Carrera Bogotá, Colombia

F OU R S E A S O N S , H O T E L C A S A M E D I NA

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL CASA MEDINA The luxury hotel group makes its foray into South America’s hottest city.

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MANDAPA, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE Bali's newest hotel draws inspiration from its exotic locale.

Travelers have long flocked to Bali to tap into the spiritual essence that emanates from Hindu temples, Balinese artwork and local healers. An equally potent allure? The cluster of high-end resorts that dot its junglechoked landscape. The latest is Ritz-Carlton’s Mandapa, located in the region's cultural hub, Ubud. Built around a working rice field on the edge of an undulating valley and inspired by the surrounding villages, Jeffrey Wilkes of Asia-based Designwilkes outfitted the 60 suites and villas with sustainably sourced materials like thatch and volcanic basalts. Colorful, large-scale paintings adorn the dark wood-paneled walls in the guestrooms, and some have private gardens and onyx pools that overlook the Ayung River (not to mention private butlers). At the Kubu restaurant, bamboo cocoons are the setting for Mediterranean degustation menus with dishes such as Iberian ham and cod ravioli with eggplant, though the island’s Balinese imprint is unmistakable. Just outside, a century-old temple attracts villagers who come to pray; an on-site Balian, or practitioner, performs ancient healing techniques at the spa. The only hindrance to elevated consciousness at the riverside yoga studio—the faint reverberations of the hotel’s traditional gong. ritzcarlton.com

Photos: Courtesy Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

G E T AWAY

By Edward Lord

RIGHT: A lounge area bounded by Ubud's verdant ecosystem BELOW: A private pool villa on the Ayung River

THE RITZ

MANDAPA, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE Ubud, Bali

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G E T AWAY THE RITZ

ABOVE: A suite's large windows allow easy access to the tropical landscape BELOW: One of the resort's many breezeways

T R A N S P O RT

NECESSITIES

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DUCATI From $14,995 (212) 989-1414 ducati.com

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NECESSITIES T R A N S P O RT

BIGGER IS BETTER Ducatiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smallest superbike, the Panigale, has been upped in size this year, from 899cc to 959cc. The new version, the Panigale 959, carefully straddles the track and the street, and can be customized to either end of the spectrum. BALANCING ACT The new 959cc L-twin engine, Ducatiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic configuration, is a structural element of the frame and has been designed for superb weight distribution, incredible handling and robustness.

TAKE YOUR PICK There are two packs, Sport and Touring, which either make the bike a full-on track star (with carbon fiber covers, tank protectors, heel guards, aluminum fuel cap and even a number plate holder) or a road warrior (the touring pack includes a radiator protection grid kit, an anti-theft system, and a comfort seat).

STYLE

NECESSITIES

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MONCLER $2,540 (646) 350-3620 moncler.com

GET OUTSIDE Moncler was founded in Grenoble, France, in 1952, creating outerwear that combines impeccable style with technological research assisted by experts in the world of mountaineering. Now headquartered in Italy, the brand creates collections that are equally well-suited for extreme conditions and day-to-day city life. TAKING IT TO THE LIMIT Moncler supplied the technical equipment for the Italian expedition to K2 in 1954. In 1955, the French

expedition to Makal첫 wore Moncler. The company was the official supplier of the French skiing team for the Winter Olympics in Grenoble in 1968. DAPPER IN DOWN The Raphael bomber-style jacket offers a refined blend of materials, with a front made of the finest suede, a premium down lining and microfibre sleeves. This combination of materials makes for a coat that is as sporty as it is weather-ready.

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NECESSITIES STYLE

TOM FORD $3,170 (888) TOM-FORD

CRAFTSMANSHIP MATTERS Handmade by Italian cobblers, this loafer designed by Tom Ford fulfills the highest quality standards for Italian haute couture.

tomford.com

LUXE DESIGN These crocodile leather loafers come with an intricate braided band that stretches across the front of the shoe in a criss-cross manner. The lining is made from silky suede calfskin and the sole contains luscious dark brown leather and rubber

mixture. The heel is exactly 4 mm to help give off the desirable executive aesthetic. FROM JAY-Z TO THE BIG SCREEN Tom Ford has long been established as one of the premier brands in the high fashion world. He gained his fame as the creative director for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent but has also directed an Oscar nominated film (2009â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s A Single Man) and was the focus of a popular Jay-Z song.

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BOTTEGA VENETA Price Upon Request (800) 845-6790 bottegaveneta.com

HIGH GEOMETRY The Bottega Knot Clutch bag is constructed of Toscana exotic leathers and crocodile in a geometric pattern that is also featured in other hand bag styles for the Spring/Summer 2016 collection. UNDER THE RADAR While it is among the very finest leather houses in Italy, Bottega is known for its motto “When your own initials are enough,” referring to the lack of logo branding on its collection. This clutch bag is

an exemplary piece of hand leatherworking, yet it remains purposefully understated. SUBTLE CHIC Bottega Veneta was founded in 1966 in Vicenza, Italy. Originally focusing exclusively on handcrafted leather goods, the brand was known for its hand-woven construction. Today, the brand also produces home products and men’s and women’s clothing, under the artistic direction of designer Tomas Maier.

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MAX MARA Price Upon Request (866) 676-2962 maxmara.com

MODERN FAMILY Max Mara, the Italian fashion house started by Achille Maramotti in the northern region of Reggio Emilia in 1951, began as one line consisting of a womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coat and suit. Over the decades it has grown into a conglomerate consisting of 23 collections. Despite its vastness, the operation remains tight knit and family run. COATING RIGHTS From its premiere collection, which included a clean-cut camel coat, the label has become synony-

mous with stylishly tailored outerwear. The classic wardrobe staple has adorned countless style icons including Christy Turlington and Kate Middleton. FRESH TAKE The Max Mara coat has seen much iteration, including collaborations with Jean Charles de Castelbajac and Anne Marie Beretta in its earlier days, as well as oversized teddy bear-textured winter coats in more recent years. For the 2016 season, quintessential timelessness meets utility in the form of this reversible wool and angora coat.

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GRAFF Price Upon Request (212) 355-9292 graffdiamonds.com

SWIRLING BEAUTY Graffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Swirl collection of diamond rings focuses on a brilliant center stone, surrounded by a complementary color of diamonds set in a swirl pattern. The Swirl ring pictured here consists of 10.55 carats of diamonds, including a brilliant-cut white diamond center stone surrounded by fancy yellow diamonds. TAKING IT ALL THE WAY Graff is known for its gemstones of exceptional quality, color and size, taking rough stones

through the cutting and polishing stages before the final setting. The company, founded in 1960 by Laurence Graff, has cut and polished four of the five largest diamonds unearthed in this century, and follows the strict guidelines of the Kimberly process, never purchasing a stone that is known to be from a conflict-free zone.

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LOUIS VUITTON Price Upon Request (866) VUITTON louisvuitton.com

TAKE ME AWAY Founded as a trunk maker by then sixteen-yearold Louis Vuitton, the Louis Vuitton company has evolved into a luxury goods powerhouse, while keeping travel at its core. Its jewelry collections are often influenced by the cultures of the world, in keeping with the brand’s travel heritage. EXOTIC DESTINATIONS The Louis Vuitton Capri collection one-of-a-kind earrings pictured here are inspired by the blue waters of the Italian island. Each earring contains

two rare Australian black opals set in brilliant diamonds. CLOSE TO HOME Louis Vuitton’s headquarters are still based in its original location of Asnieres, on the outskirts of Paris, and its products continue to be made in its home country of France.

TECH

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ULTRASONE $4,999 +49 881-901150 ultrasone-headphones.com

GLOBAL DESIGN Handmade in Germany with Ethiopian sheep leather earpads and hundred-year-old moor oak ear cups, the Ultrasone Edition 5 is the luxurious pair of over-the-ear headphones that the audiophile in your life has been looking for. FOR THE AUDIOPHILE A limited release of only 555 pairs worldwide, these headphones incorporate the brand new, state of the art S-Logic EX速 technology, bringing you closer than ever before to authentic studio

sound. Years of audio research and testing have culminated with this exciting release. FUNNELED FOR FUNCTION The unique funnel shape allows for the sound transducer to be placed further away from the ear than normal headphones allow, which enables an impressive spatial positioning effect.

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NECESSITIES TECH

LEICA CAMERA AG $3,500 (800) 222 0118 us.leica-camera.com

I SEE YOU Leica is internationally known for making superlative cameras and sport optics. The company began its operation in 1849, with its first prototype camera created in 1919. The Leica Ultravid 8x32 Edition Zagato binoculars blend Leica’s cutting-edge technologies with the design aesthetic of Italian automotive atelier Zagato. VROOM VROOM Zagato was founded in 1919 by Ugo Zagato, who applied aviation technologies for lightweight

strength and aerodynamics in automotive design. The “edition Zugato” binoculars are manufactured of finely grooved aluminum, with the front lens rings inscribed “Zugato.” ONE IN A THOUSAND Like Zugato’s automobiles, The Ultravid 8x32 “Edition Zagato” will be produced in a limited series. Leica will create just 1000 pieces of this version of its Ultravid collection.

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ARMANI CASA $54,255 (212) 334-1271 armanicasa.com

FASHION FORWARD Armani/Casa was launched in 2000 in Milan, and has since become one of the most established homeware extensions launched by a luxury fashion brand. Since then, they have been making opulent, contemporary home furnishings inspired by the same high fashion aesthetic as the flagship brand, Giorgio Armani.

LUXURIOUS FINISHES The Giunone, which measures in at a substantial 86 inches wide, is made of tamo woodâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a rare species of common ash native to Manchuria and Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and the spacious top is covered in leather. AMPLE STORAGE With 10 drawers, each big enough to fit standard office documents such as folders and binders, the Giunone is well-equipped for a home office or study.

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MOROSO $8,820 (800) 705-6863 moroso.it

IBERIAN INSPIRATION Spanish designer and architect Patricia Urquiolaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s furniture collections have won her numerous accolades in the design world, including an Elle Decor International Design Award. She is known for her minimalist approach and playful sensibility, which is on full display in this piece designed for Italian furniture brand Moroso.

CRAZY COMFY The lightness of the Love (Me) Tenderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s aluminum frame is contrasted by the fullness of the cushions, and creates the visual effect of the piece floating above the floor. The result is an exceptionally welcoming sofa that is perfect for a cat nap. PLUG AND PLAY The Love (Me) Tender sofa is modular and allows for a wide variety of easily assembled, interchangeable parts, including tables and trays in a variety of shapes, so you can customize the piece

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BOGNER $839 (800) 801-0372 bogner.com

GOING STRONG German brand Bogner has created high-performance and highly stylish sportswear since 1932. Willy Bogner, a former alpine ski racer, took the helm of his family business in 1977 after his father’s death. With his wife, Sônia Bogner, he has built the brand into an international powerhouse. NATURAL SELECTION Bamboo is one of the world’s oldest building materials, and has an extremely high degree of tensile strength, making it at once hard and flexible. This

made it an ideal material for Bogner’s ski helmet, as it is not only very aesthetically pleasing but also extremely durable. HIGH-TECH TOUCHES The mid part of the helmet is made of polycarbonate, and three air chambers crafted of Coolmax ensure a cool head while on the slopes. A disk-fit system with twist closure facilitates single-handed adjustment to head size.

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LACROIX $9,375 +33 478 33 21 28

BLACK ON WHITE The sleek black titanium kevlar carbon finish of Lacroix’s Ultime Black 2 skis will stand out against the white of fresh powder.

lacroix-skis.com

REVOLUTIONARY STRUCTURE The Ultime Black 2 series utilizes the LX Force Treatment, which includes a double-layered titanium alloy that comprises the two sections of the sandwiched design, protecting against scratches while enjoying a clean minimalistic aesthetic.

SLOPE STYLE Whether your outdoor winter sport adventures include trips back and forth from Vail and Breckenridge in Colorado or a quick dash over to prestigious European hot spots like St. Moritz or Klosters in the Swiss Alps, Lacroix’s Ultime Black 2 series will ensure you have the sleekest skis on the slopes.

WEAPON

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PURDEY Price Upon Request +44 (0) 20 7408 7208 purdey.com

THE BEST IN BIRD SHOOTING Founded in 1814, James Purdey & Sons is widely regarded as one of the best sporting gun manufacturers in the world. They are known for their highly-ornate pieces, like the side-by-side shotgun seen here. A REGAL BEARING Purdey holds three Royal Warrants of appointment as gun and rifle makers to British and other European royal families. It counts Queen Victoria, who is purported to have purchased a pair of Purdey pistols in 1838, among its esteemed clientele.

COMPLETELY CUSTOM All Purdey shotguns are entirely bespoke, made to each customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs and specifications in terms of physical dimensions, weight, and ornamentation. As a result, price can vary significantly depending on the chosen stock, the intricacy of the engraving, and certain extra-luxury options they make available such as gold inlay.

atelier-zuppinger.ch

Plate Tableware or part of a watch movement? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.

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F E AT U R E : RO GE R DU BU IS

OPPOSITE: The Roger Dubuis Blossom Velvet Blue

Time For The Ladies

For 2016, Roger Dubuis Focuses on its Feminine Side. 66

WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second

The components of the Calibre RD821

F E AT U R E : RO GE R DU BU IS

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The front and back of the Calibre RD821

F E AT U R E : RO GE R DU BU IS

Since its founding in 1995, the Roger Dubuis brand has been known for its innovative and daring approach to horology. On one hand, its legitimacy as one of the industry’s finest high watchmakers is undisputed—100% of its timepieces are Geneva Seal certified. On the other hand, the brand relentlessly pursues innovation, breaks conventions and pushes the envelope in design. When I met with Jean-Marc Pontroué, the CEO of Roger Dubuis, it was no surprise when he shared with me that 2016 was the Year of the Woman for the brand. At the SIHH, the first important watch show of the year held in Geneva this month, every watch introduced will be for women. “In fact, we will have a big sign at the entrance to the booth that says ‘Men Forbidden,’” Pontroué jokes. It is daring for a brand known for men’s watches to dedicate its entire presentation to women (last year, the decidedly masculine Excalibur Spider was the key piece for Dubuis). “If there is one brand that can afford to do this, it’s Roger Dubuis,” Pontroué points out. “It’s a very interesting exercise for us. Already, 30% of our customers are women, and we needed to offer them a larger choice of concepts. Of course, everything we are offering this year is mechanical, all limited editions, all Geneva Seal.” The focus for this year will be Velvet, a collection Dubuis launched in 2008 without much fanfare or promotion. This year, that all changes.

A sketch of the Blossom Velvet Blue and Pink

F E AT U R E : RO GE R DU BU IS

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F E AT U R E : RO GE R DU BU IS

Product design director Lionel Favre works on a sketch of the Blossom Velvet

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BLOSSOM VELVET BLUE The first reveal of the Velvet Collection shows that Dubuis intends to remain provocative. Rather than simply introducing some standard watches, the new Blossom Velvet shows the brand’s commitment to women in a very substantial way. The Blossom Velvet Blue combines old-school métiers d’art with modern high watchmaking. Its dial has uniquely produced deep, three-dimensional sculpted Grand Feu enamel flowers on white-gold stems circling diamonds on a mother-of-pearl base. Inspired by the Flower Clock in the center of Geneva, one of the city’s must-see attractions, the Blossom Velvet Blue’s dial draws you in with its various levels. Usually, high-fire enamel is flat, but here Roger Dubuis has started with a thick plate of enamel, from which its artisans have sculpted the beautiful blue flowers. A total of 154 diamonds weighing 1.9 carats adorn the Blossom Velvet Blue, in addition to the diamonds in the center of the flowers, two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds frame the bezel and lugs of the 18K white gold case, and even the watch’s clasp is set with 14 brilliant-cut diamonds. The timepiece is powered by Calibre RD821, an in-house movement produced entirely in the brand’s Geneva manufacture. It is comprised of 172 components and 33 jewels, with a power reserve of 48 hours, and meets the requirements of the Geneva Seal. The Geneva Seal is awarded to watches that have met the highest standards of watchmaking and are entirely created within the Canton of Geneva. Watches are evaluated on stringent criteria including timekeeping, movement finishing and casing by TimeLab—the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Microengineering, an independent organization of experts that is supported by the Canton of Geneva. “We are seeing that we have a growing number of women interested in horology,” Pontroué says. “Velvet was already in our portfolio for five years, but we didn’t do much for promotion or even product development. Now, we are doing different things to make it spectacular. When it comes to women and Roger Dubuis, Alvaro Maggini, our creative director, and his team have ideas for 1000 years to come. “Our offering this year is an homage to what we launched at the very beginning, with a lot of retrograde movements,” Pontroué continues. “I think that having this small complication on a woman’s product is interesting. We believe that a women’s assortment has to be different from the men’s. In the past, the women shared a theme that was predominantly male. This is the first year that the women’s product theme will be as strong as the men’s.”

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“When you work for Roger Dubuis, you have daily requests from customers to surprise them,” he continues. Our customers never ask for something specific, they want concepts that don’t exist on the market, and we are committed to giving these to them.” The 36mm Blossom Velvet Blue is just one of the novelties of the Velvet Collection for 2016. According to Pontroué, there will be five different models in the collection—Blossom Velvet, Ribbon, Secret Heart, Black Velvet and Velvet by Massaro. “Velvet will have fine jewelry, new movements, new materials, métiers d’art and more, to show the versatility of the line,” he explains. “We will treat it the Roger Dubuis way, with lots of differentiation and creativity. All the attributes of the brand, which have made such a success of our men’s watches, will be applied to the women’s line.” THE U.S. MARKET The American market is an important one for Roger Dubuis. “Everybody should know that even though Asia has had the highest growth in recent years, the U.S. remains the number one market in the world for luxury goods,” Pontroué points out. “For Roger Dubuis, this is the biggest business opportunity in the world. Today, we only have 17 points of sale in the United States, and we are not able to serve all the affluent parts of the USA.” Roger Dubuis just recently inaugurated its first boutique in the U.S., with more to follow. “Having a store in New York is an image statement and it allows us to place our brand in the middle of one of the most prestigious cities in the world,” Pontroué says. “We think there is room in the U.S. for three boutiques. With the growing network of retailers and our own boutiques, we think three is the right number.” HONORING HISTORY To celebrate key boutique openings, Roger Dubuis has introduced unique watches, called Hommage Millesime, using vintage movements from legendary master watchmaker Mr. Roger Dubuis’s own collection. These vintage movements are refurbished, augmented with new complications and brought up to the standards of the modern Geneva Seal, which is no mean feat. One of these special pieces, a pocket watch, was developed for the new Geneva boutique, and a wristwatch was created to celebrate the opening of the New York flagship. Part of the Rarities program, “these timepieces are based on a restoration project, which Mr. Dubuis was doing when he started the brand, and so we developed a unique piece to celebrate the opening of a flagship boutique,” Pontroué details. “We are highlighting the beauty of what the brand has to offer. It is the watchmaking approach, because we are rebuilding the piece element by element, and we bring it up to the Geneva Seal. All of what we are known for is on display here.” Each piece requires over 1,000 hours of work just for the restoration, not including assembly and regulation. The New York boutique watch is a stunning piece, incorporating a minute repeater, split-second flyback chronograph with a bi-retrograde center perpetual calendar. Each of these Hommage Millesime pieces retails for about one million dollars. This year, Roger Dubuis has applied everything that makes the brand stand out to watches for the women in the world. Based on the first offering in the Velvet Collection, the Blossom Velvet Blue, we can’t wait to see what else Roger Dubuis has to offer. —Keith W. Strandberg

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A detail of the Blossom Velvet Blue

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“Velvet will have fine jewelry, new movements, new materials, métiers d’art and more, to show the versatility of the line. We will treat it the Roger Dubuis way, with lots of differentiation and creativity.” —Jean-Marc Pontroué

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Openworking O PE N WO R K I NG

Photography by Jens Mortensen

The Art of Movement Making At Its Finest. 74

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition a Quantieme Perpetual 8 Days SQ, (877) JLC-1833, jaeger-lecoultre.com

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Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30째 Technique watch in black ADLC titanium, (212) 221-8041, greubelforsey.com

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Bovet Amadeo Reverso watch in 18K rose gold, (212) 257-5015, bovet.com

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Audemars Piguet Blancpain Royal Villeret Oak Selfwinding Squelette watch 8 Jours inwatch, rose gold, (212) 396-1735, (646)375-0807, blancpain.com audemarspiguet.com

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Cartier Tank MC Skeleton Rolex Large Everose Model Day-Date, watch (800)367-6539, in 18K rose gold, rolex.com (800) CARTIER, cartier.us

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Franck Muller 7 Day Power Reserve Skeleton watch in 18K rose gold, (212) 463-8898, franckmuller.com

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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openworked Small Model, (877) 862-7555, vacheron-constantin.com

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Bell & Ross BR-X1 Carbone ForgĂŠ Watch, (888) 307-7887, bellross.com

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Bulgari Saphir Ultranero watch (800) BVLGARI, bulgari.com

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O PE N WO R K I NG

P H I L A N T H R O P Y : GOLD STANDARD

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Gold Standard Chopard’s ethical sourcing of gold is just one of its many charitable efforts.

Watch companies get plenty of recognition for their elite complications, beautiful designs and extravagant launch parties, but they also deserve recognition for their environmental and philanthropic endeavors. If we are concerned about saving the planet, which by all accounts is at risk, we can easily follow the “reduce, reuse and recycle” mantra. Responsible consumption can be tricky, though, as product labels don’t always tell us whether or not what we’re buying was made in a clean, energy-efficient environment by people working under safe conditions for wages that sustain their basic human needs. Gold mining in particular can be a messy business. Mercury and cyanide are used to separate gold from rock and sediment, and if not handled properly, can seriously harm workers and pollute the environment for generations. Because of this, when you buy your next watch or piece of jewelry, then you may want to consider buying it from Chopard. Chopard has invested in a non-governmental organization (NGO) called the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), which regulates Artisanal and Small-scale Mining communities (ASM) throughout the world. These communities account for 80% of the mining workforce and produce 20% of the world’s gold. ARM has created a standard for the responsible min-

ing of gold, referring to it as Fairmined gold. The label guarantees strict respect for certain rules of economic, social and environmental development in the mining process. Chopard is the first luxury watch and jewelry company to invest in the ASM mines, helping them to comply with the standard, and has committed to sourcing a substantial amount of gold from them. The first manifestation of this partnership was the 2014 launch of the L.U.C Fairmined Tourbillon watch, followed the next year by the L.U.C XPS Fairmined timepiece, both of which are made entirely with Fairmined gold. Chopard now also produces the Palme d’Or, which it has made for the Cannes Film Festival since 1998, in Fairmined gold, and has introduced a Palme Verte collection of jewelry. Fairmined gold is also used to fabricate pieces in the company’s Green Carpet collection. The endeavor has brought the concept of sustainable luxury to the red carpet. “In creating the Palme d’Or from fairmined gold, sustainable luxury has truly been placed on a world stage, highlighting the importance of artisanal skills at the very beginning of the supply chain,” says Cannes Film Festival director Thierry Frémaux. “For the first time ever, the Palme d’Or will represent not only the very highest standards of film production, but ethical gold production as well.”

Chopard L.U.C XPS Fairmined watch

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P H I L A N T H R O P Y : GOLD STANDARD

GOOD GOLD Fairmined gold standards cover everything from the management of toxic substances to proper health and safety, as well as employment standards. Here are just a few of the standards outlined in the 71-page regulation document: • • • •

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All miners must have access to information and training on health and safety in mining, its main risks and hazards and how to prevent, prepare for and respond to emergencies. In the absence of social security protection systems, the miners affected by accidents, occupational disease or disaster must receive help through economic support. All miners included in the Fairmined System of Production must benefit from a social security scheme covering health, pension and occupational risk insurance. Conditions of employment and salaries for hired workers must be equal to or exceed the sector national average wages or official minimum wages for similar occupations, whichever is higher. Any employer in the scope of a Fairmined System of Production must specify wages for all functions. If the workers are provided with housing, the conditions and the infrastructure of the house must be such as to ensure decency (it must be hygienic and healthy), privacy and security. Housing must be provided at reasonable costs. RESPONSIBILITY AT THE SOURCE

Although the total elimination of the use of mercury in artisanal and small-scale gold mining is not always possible, it remains a goal that can be achieved in some cases. In all cases, however, the Standard sets out a process to support ASMs to progressively minimize the use of mercury and cyanide through implementation of responsible practices and technologies to mitigate the impact on the environment and human health. Miners are required to eliminate (i) whole ore amalgamation, (ii) Open burning of amalgam or processed amalgam, (iii) Burning of amalgam in residential areas, and (iv) Cyanide leaching in sediment, ore or tailings to which mercury has been added without first removing the mercury. According to Caroline Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, the company has pledged to purchase 100% of the Fairmined gold extracted from two mines that the company has supported in the certification process—15 de Agosto in Bolivia, and Coodmilla in the Nariño Region of Colombia. “We are creating more and more pieces made of Fairmined gold and we will keep on increasing the number of watches and jewelry made of this gold to be proud of,” she says. Closer to home, Chopard manages its own operations according to strict environmental standards. In 2010, the Chopard Group inaugurated its first building built under strict Minergie standards, the Swiss standards for lowenergy-consumption buildings, including a double isolation envelope and a system allowing cooled air from its restaurant to be reused in the air conditioning systems. It is also equipped with rain water collectors, enabling a full-year irrigation of its gardens. Additionally, solar panels line the roof. Today, it is the largest building to be renovated according to the construction standards of Minergie in the Canton of Neuchâtel in Switzerland.

P H I L A N T H R O P Y : GOLD STANDARD

ABOVE: Mine carts in the ‘15 de Agosto’ mines in the Andes mountains of La Paz, Bolivia. BELOW: Inside the mines of the Coodmilla Cooperative in Colombia

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Caroline Schechtel and Elton John

P H I L A N T H R O P Y : GOLD STANDARD

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The 23rd annual Elton John AIDS Foundation Academy Awards Viewing Party hosted by Sir Elton John and David Furnish raised $5.8 million for the fight against HIV/AIDS.

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DEDICATED TO HEALING

ABOVE: Palm Verte ring. BELOW: Green Carpet Collection watch

P H I L A N T H R O P Y : GOLD STANDARD

Chopard makes long-term commitments to the charities it supports, donating proceeds from special models and collections to specific causes. Since 2002, it has supported the Elton John AIDS Foundation (EJAF), which finances HIV/AIDS prevention and assistance programs around the world. Beneficiaries include treatment facilities for the physical and mental symptoms, AIDS tests and advice, and work on the streets through distribution of food, sheltered housing, social services, and support for volunteers. “I met Elton John at the Cannes Film Festival in 2000, and discovered that we share the same determination to fight AIDS,” says Scheufele. “This encounter gave rise to a unique watch collection in 2008, named the Elton John Watch collection, which we designed together.” A percentage of the sales are donated to EJAF. The José Carreras Leukaemia Foundation is another cause to which Chopard is dedicated. José Carreras and the Scheufele family are united by a long friendship, and in 1991, Chopard set up the Swiss branch of the foundation, followed in 1995 by its German counterpart, of which Karl Scheufele is chairman and vice-chairman. In 1996, Chopard introduced the José Carreras watch collection. The first limited editions bore engravings of various opera houses around the world on the casebacks, with a portion of sales earmarked for the foundation. Caroline Scheufele also recently announced a partnership with the Happy Hearts Fund, started by model Petra Nemcova, to help rebuild schools and children's lives after natural disasters. The Happy Heart Fund is active in seven countries, and has built 81 schools and kindergartens. More than 45,000 children and 490,000 community members have benefited. To support the cause, Chopard crafted a special edition 18K rose gold Happy Diamonds bracelet featuring a pink sapphire in the shape of a heart; 17% of proceeds go towards the rebuilding of schools. —Carol Besler

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F E AT U R E : A MON U M E N T T O T I M E

OPPOSITE: The Richard Mille “l’Horloge Porte-Bonheure” clock

A Monument to Time The Richard Mille Jura Quebec Clock: Sharing Time—and Luck—between French Speaking Nations.

It is a rare thing in this day and age that a watch manufacturer, especially one that is less than 15 years old, undertakes the building of a grand clock. For a company that generally bases their watches on the new materials and technology found in Formula 1 cars, the brake pads for the Space Shuttle, or the material for afterburners in the B2 Stealth Bomber, a two-metric-ton clock as part of a civic project is about as far as it can be from its core stock and trade. Richard Mille has arguably redefined the very concept of luxury, creating luxury products that are not defined by the precious metals and gems they contain, but by the technique and unique materials involved in crafting the final product. In agreeing to manufacture a municipal clock as an international gift between French speaking nations, the challenge was how Richard would translate his ethos from the very small and light to the very grand and imposing. The logistics multiply exponentially in the manufacturing and installation of such a large-scale clock. The resulting clock’s design and mechanics are in keeping with the Richard Mille design aesthetic, so much so that even if you

removed the nameplate on the clock, anyone with even a passing interest in watches and clocks would recognize it as a Richard Mille piece. Today, large-scale clocks are something of an anachronism, a vestige of a bygone age when central clocks were not only the source of accurate time for the local community, but also for railways, with their set timetables that carried time from the city to the outlying towns. The clocks dictated the time of day, the hours spent working, resting, eating, and socializing— and therefore, the pace of life. In the 21st century, clocks of this scale are still occasionally made, but mostly by artisans who specialize in manufacturing and restoring bigger clocks. The clocks tend to be traditional in both design and execution. In 2008, the Canton of Jura in Switzerland decided to present a gift of a perpetual clock to the Province of Quebec in Canada to celebrate four centuries of the French-speaking province and as a symbol of friendship between the two regions. The clock would display the time of day in each region and with it, represent a tangible reminder that French-speaking regions are

united across the globe and separated only by time differences. In searching for a suitable watch company to both design and manufacture a clock, Jura was looking for something unique, something that would be noticed and admired, and they approached Richard Mille about the project. Given the list of requirements, it is perhaps no surprise that the Canton settled on Richard Mille S.A. The Richard Mille aesthetic is unique in watchmaking: combining traditional skills with new techniques and materials. Once Richard had accepted the commission, he was faced with the unenviable task of manufacturing a clock that would be permanently installed in the gardens outside the town hall in Quebec. Named “l’Horloge Porte-Bonheur” (the good-luck clock) the clock represents the best of the culture, technological know-how, and horological design of the Canton of Jura and Richard Mille. To add a degree of difficulty to the task, Richard wanted to keep the clock true to both the aesthetic and method of manufacture found in his watches. And that defined the two main challenges that Richard and his team faced:

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the scale of the clock and the method of manufacture. The intention was to manufacture a clock that was instantly recognizable as Richard Mille’s work and incorporate both new materials and horological innovation. The clock that now sits in its own housing in the Jardins de l’Hôtel de Ville in Quebec took six years to create, from appointment to installation. Developing and installing the clock also required the help of the Technical College of Porrentruy and the Neuchâtel Haute Ecole Arc. The team charged with the development of the clock logged 6,571 hours of work time. The clock is comprised of 5,451 components and required 3,952 hours of assembly and adjustment. It measures 3.5 meters x 2.5 meters x 1.3 meters and weighs almost two metric tons. After the clock was constructed at the Richard Mille manufacture, it was tested for six months. Another six months was required to disassemble the clock at Porrentruy and reassemble it in Quebec. In the end, due to the amount of work, obsessive attention to detail, design, and finishing, and the resources put into the clock, it ended ended up, in a sense, as much a gift from Richard Mille as it was from Jura. But then, that is Richard’s way: don’t compromise on horology, finish or technique. Among the host of challenges in creating this unique clock with the Richard Mille aesthetic was finding a new set of suppliers able to machine, hand finish, deliver and carefully assemble the parts for a clock of this size. The 5,451 parts that comprise the clock are crafted of brass, stainless steel, titanium, aluminium, ceramic and ruby, the same materials found in watches. The clock still has all the signature attributes of a Richard Mille: the same hand-finishing techniques can be found in this piece of haute horlogerie, such as satin-brushed surfaces, polished edges and micro bead–blasted components, although on a much larger scale. Additionally, in the same manner that you can see the calibre, gear trains and balance wheel through the antireflective-treated mineral glass around the movement in Richard Mille watches, such is the case with the clock. The clock has a perpetual calendar, with the date displayed on rolling bars. The gears are cleverly utilized to serve as visual separators between the different date indications. The Jura-Quebec clock includes a rare complication for a clock: the equation of time. A slow-moving driving weight operates as a mobile slide-contact along a sinuous red line etched on the glass panel on the left side of the clock to display the equation of time, where a scale is engraved on the weight with the red line indicating the variations in minutes between “apparent solar time” and “mean solar time” throughout the year. At any moment throughout the year, the difference (read in terms of minutes) can be clearly read from the horizontal linear scale from both sides. Finally, to demonstrate the clock’s symbolic link between the two French-speaking regions, a second time zone, of Jura, is displayed all along the glass

A detail of the clock’s movement. Photo: Andrew Hildreth

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Preparing the clockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s components for assembly. Photos: Andrew Hildreth

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The clock still has all the signature attributes of a Richard Mille: the same hand-finishing techniques can be found in this piece of haute horlogerie, such as satinbrushed surfaces, polished edges and micro bead-blasted components, although on a much larger scale.

column on a twenty-four hour scale, made visible by the ascending movement of a specific window. To maintain the clock’s accuracy, the clock is encased in a tightly sealed housing to protect it from external influences such as temperature variations, humidity, and dust. Although a number of people were involved in the design of various elements for the clock over the years it was being constructed, there were three people who were with it to the end. Richard, of course; Dominique Guenat (Richard’s business partner and owner of Montres Valognes) who was responsible for directing and designing the clock in terms of the overall project, and Salvador Arbona, who was responsible for the everyday running of the clock and overseeing the work. I had the chance to sit down with Salvador and talk through some of the more important elements of the clock that have perhaps been a little overlooked. The clock contains not only a unique design, but also two horological and technical advancements making the clock a stand alone “Piece Unique” in its own right. First, the actual weight of the hands on the clock face forced the trio from Richard Mille S.A. to look for a solution in terms of a remontoire that keeps a constant force from the gears. The remontoire has a series of moving wheels within the clock that allows an extremely accurate and constant power from the escapement, with a release every 30 seconds to keep the accuracy of the regulating pendulum. The pendulum oscillates every second. The escapement drive is ensured by an endless chain mechanism named a “de Huygens” that makes the power of the escapement wheels perfectly regular, even during the winding phase. But don’t be fooled! Despite its size and bulk, the clock mechanism requires hours of very fine setting applied on each element to make the clock accurate. The second element that was innovative was the pendulum. Typically “Richard Mille” futuristic in design, the whole part is made of Invar. Usually, Invar is used for several small components in a watch: perhaps the plate of a bridge, even a mainspring, but hardly something the size and weight of the pendulum for a civic scale clock. So now imagine, because you want to ensure that the timing of the clock does not alter on the minutest expansion or contraction in the weight of the pendulum itself, you construct the whole thing out of Invar. Richard, and the team constructing the clock, took this decision because any expansion or contraction of the metal for the pendulum leads to an increase or decrease of the amplitude in the swing that keeps time. The pendulum becomes that “Richard Mille” element to the clock: the part that is re-thought with new materials to improve time keeping. The futuristic pendulum is composed of 34 pieces for a weight of 18,85 Kg—and that’s just the regulating arm of the clock! The main stem is a meter long. The oscillation of the pendulum can be set with two screws: one placed under the bezel and the second under the Invar stem for a finer setting. Even the pendulum was designed with aerodynamics in mind: note the wing-like shape of the weight. Finally, the pendulum was fixed by a fine elastic slide made of hard “cold-forged” steel to maintain the maximum freedom during oscillation and keep the force rigidly straight and direct. I asked Richard if the clock’s design could be scaled to manufacture a limited production run of grandfather clocks. The knowledge of part suppliers, design and geometry of the movement are already established. I told Richard that as I was someone who was brought up with a father who was a vintage clock collector, and the hypnotic ‘tick-tock’ of the pendulum on his Jura-Quebec clock brought back memories of the fireside and reading on cold winter evenings. I think a modern grandfather clock, designed and manufactured by Richard Mille, would be desired by a quite a few people. A wry smile from Richard: “At first, I thought this could be a good possibility, but the cost..mamma mia! I am afraid it will be difficult…We’ll try anyway!” Perhaps a new line of grandfather clocks will be possible in the future. —Andrew Hildreth

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The clockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dial conveys Richard Milleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature design. Photo: Andrew Hildreth

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F E AT U R E : I T ’ S C OM PL ICAT E D

OPPOSITE: Vacheron Constantin Ref. 57260’s two sides

It’s Complicated 8 years in development 6 time measurement functions 7 perpetual calendar functions 8 Hebrew calendar functions 9 astronomical calendar functions 1 lunar calendar function 1 religious calendar function 4 Three-column wheel chronograph functions 7 alarm functions 8 Westminster carillon striking functions 6 other functions 2,800 components 98mm in diameter 50.55 mm thick 242 jewels

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The world’s most complicated timepiece, Vacheron Constantin’s Ref. 57260, started with a collector’s request and culminated with a world record and the creation of several never-before-seen complications. To get the real story of the development of this watch, I talked with Dominique Bernaz, the head of retail and the head of the Atelier Cabinotiers for Vacheron Constantin. The wheels were set in motion when Juan Carlos Torres, CEO of Vacheron Constantin, decided to create the Atelier Cabinotiers, the bespoke arm of the company, back in 2007. “When we started this, I asked him for watchmakers and a workshop, and he told me that it didn’t work this way, he said that we had to start with clients,” Bernaz remembers. “I had a customer in mind for the first project, so I contacted him and his desire was to have the world’s most complicated watch.” Ref. 57260 was in development for eight years—when Vacheron Constantin signed the contract with the customer, the company promised to deliver the

The inner mechanics of the Vacheron Constantin Ref. 57260. OPPOSITE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Mike Pintus, Yannick Pintus, Jean-Luc Perrin

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“Now that the project is over, there is still one more piece of the puzzle to create—the owner’s manual. “There are a lot of things to take into account when you set the watch, but it can be done by someone who is not a watchmaker,” he points out. “The user manual is not done yet. To write the user manual, you need the watch to be 100% finished.” —Dominique Bernaz

The Vacheron Constantin manufacture in Geneva

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timepiece in 2015. “At the time, we did a serious study of the project and we knew it would take this kind of time to deliver,” Bernaz says. “The initial brief was a little different. We had to deliver a minimum of 36 complications and the watch had to be smaller than the most complicated watch at the time on the market. From day one, the watchmakers had something else in mind. They originally wanted to include 45 or 46 complications, and then the collector came with the request for the Hebrew calendar.” The hardest part of the design and production was . . . everything, according to Bernaz. “Nothing has been easy,” he says. “You can take each complication individually and everything was bespoke. The most difficult complication was the Hebrew calendar, because it had never been done. The other was the double retrograde chronograph. The real challenge was to have all these complications in one piece with a resulting watch that is well balanced, beautiful and elegant. “Our objective was a complicated watch that was both beautiful and readable,” he continues. “We had to adapt the technical aspect to the aesthetic of the watch. We had a rendering of what we wanted the watch to be, then we adapted from there. It was state of mind, to make sure we keep the aesthetics in the forefront.”

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Having a watch with a total of 57 complications is an incredible achievement, one that underscores and reinforces Vacheron Constantin’s place in the pantheon of high watchmaking. “A project like this spreads the word about Vacheron Constantin,” Bernaz points out. “It follows that if we can do this kind of watch, we can certainly do a three-hand watch in an excellent way. We learned a great deal during the making of this watch” However, Bernaz is quick to point out that Vacheron is by no means done.“When I went out looking for the client in 2006, the idea was to prime the pump to get this department started,” he says. “Now the pump is working. We have many interesting projects in the pipeline. We are very happy that we did it. We had some very difficult times, we were not always sure we would be able to do it, but we did. “The motto of our maison is ‘Do Better if Possible,’” he continues. “I think it is possible to do more than 57. When you make a watch like this, every day is filled with brainstorming, so we do have ideas. I don’t think the number of complications should be a goal. We were very happy to fulfill this client’s request, but we don’t want this to turn into a race. We are happy to say that we made the most complicated watch in the world.” —Keith W. Strandberg

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S U B S T A N C E : AV E N T U R I N E

A Sky Full of Stars

How watchmakers are conjuring the cosmos with a special crystalline substance. 103

S U B S T A N C E : AV E N T U R I N E

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“The aventurine is cut into slices 1.5mm thick and then slowly polished to be as thin as 0.8mm. The operation is difficult and sensitive and there is always the risk of breakage.” —Christian Lattmann

The word “aventurine” comes from the Italian word “avventura,” which means “chance,” referring to the accidental way that aventurine glass was discovered in the 1800s. The aventurine used in watchmaking, however, is a form of quartz that has inclusions of fuchsite, which adds a shimmering and sparkling effect to the stone. Today, several companies are using aventurine on watch dials (and on rotors) to evoke the celestial bodies. “We decided to work with aventurine because it reminds us of a starry sky. Louis Moinet invented the first chronograph, which was at first an astronomical instrument to time the passage of stars and planets,” says Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet. “Furthermore, in our collections we pioneered the use of rare materials in our dials, such as meteorites. Using aventurine reinforces Louis Moinet’s universe.” Aventurine is beautiful, but it’s not the easiest material to work with. “It is very delicate and difficult to work with aventurine,” says Christian Lattmann, vice president at Jaquet Droz. “The aventurine is cut into slices 1.5mm thick and then slowly polished to be as thin as 0.8mm. Following this process, we have to cut it delicately into the shape of the dial. The operation is difficult and sensitive and there is always the risk of breakage. The difficulty also lies in selecting the best section of the aventurine that displays many sparkles, offering a magical aspect to the dial. “Minerals are a symbol of uniqueness and they are part of the eight codes of Jaquet Droz,” he continues. “The aventurine dial gives the watch a profound elegance by creating the perfect illusion of the ocean’s abysses or a sky full of stars. The idea is to play with the light and depth of the aventurine to decorate a very unique dial.” Jacob & Co. uses aventurine as the backdrop to its spinning and turning Astronomia Triple Axis Gravitational Tourbillon. “Aventurine, from the quartz family, is a precious mineral that has some inclusions which create a blue-ish shine and glitter, offering a very celestial aesthetic touch to the watches,” says Xavier Mettaz, research and development manager at Jacob & Co. “The Astronomia’s aventurine layer, for instance, clearly reminds us of a night sky studded with many stars. The aventurine gives a fabulous midnight color to the timepiece and highlights the meticulous work of the stone cutter. “The cut has to be very accurate and we need to find the perfect thickness,” he continues. “The stone has to be alive, bright and blue-ish enough. We have to be careful not to use a stone that’s too dark, which would look less alive. It is a sweet mix between the blue and the black colors.” Aventurine certainly offers something different when it comes to dials. “The success of aventurine comes from its unique beauty, its brilliance and its profound elegance,” says Jaquet Droz’s Lattmann. “Aventurine paints the picture of a night sky sparkling with stars, which makes it very unique and delicate. We can find it today in different Jaquet Droz models such as the Grande Seconde, Lady 8 and Petite Heure Minute.” With any luck, more watch companies will include this beautiful substance in their future offerings. —Keith W. Strandberg

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S U B S T A N C E : AV E N T U R I N E

ABOVE: The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon. BELOW: The Louis Moinet Stardance.

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M A N U FAC T U R E : M I N I AT U R E PA I N T I N G

OPPOSITE: The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Carps

Miniature Painting

Combining Fine Art With Fine Watchmaking 106

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Watchmaking, with its attention to detail, complications and sublime designs, is often called an "art," but this is more figurative than literal. Watches, you see, no matter how complicated, have a utilitarian purpose—displaying the time—while art's purpose is more ethereal. When actual miniature paintings are produced on watch dials, however, art and watchmaking really converge. A watch dial is a very small surface for reproducing fine art on, making this a very challenging business. Several companies have specialized in this métier d'art, and watch lovers everywhere are especially thankful to them for keeping the art alive. SIZE MATTERS "Métiers d’art dials indeed represent a challenge, not only in a technical sense, but also from the design and craftsmanship point of view," explains Christian Selmoni, artistic director at Vacheron Constantin. "Depending on the series or subject, métiers d’art dials require a lot of technical skill and know-how, even for the simple making of a dial plate. In the example of a miniature painting dial, its material, its alloy characteristics, the way the dial plate is manufactured, and the necessary and exact thickness it requires are all of major importance before the craftsmen will start to envisage working on the dial. "From a design and craftsmanship point of view, métiers d’art dials require a lot of skills, as the surface available is usually very small (often a diameter of around 30mm or smaller), and we have to create surprise, emotion and a lot of perceived value on such a small surface," he continues. "The Métiers d’Art series truly demonstrates Vacheron Constantin's watchmaking art. In addition, Métiers d’Art pieces are creative, artistic watches and each new model or series represents a non-stop challenge, from conceptualization to manufacturing. In a sense, métiers d’art watches match well with Vacheron Constantin's motto: 'Do better if possible, which is always possible.'"

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The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Savoirs Enluminés watch

M A N U FAC T U R E : M I N I AT U R E PA I N T I N G

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M A N U FAC T U R E : M I N I AT U R E PA I N T I N G

Hand painting the dial of a piece from the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Savoirs Enluminés collection

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A RARE BREED Christian Lattmann, executive vice president at Jaquet Droz, knows how much work and attention to detail goes into the miniature painting masterpieces at his brand. "The main difficulty is to find artists who are able to create these pieces of art," he points out. "Even the painter's brush takes months to make and adapt to the hand: it builds up its shape as the artisan paints with it. It also has to be cut to make it exactly the right size to paint the pupil of an eye, for instance, or the details of a face, or hair, or other very delicate features. "In the 18th century, the watch masters in the Jaquet Droz family were pioneers in the art of luxury decoration, generating work for an entire generation of craftsmen," he continues. "Today, Jaquet Droz continues the traditions of craftsmanship and fine decoration. Despite the difficulty, it’s important for us to perpetuate our savoir faire, which is part of our DNA. Jaquet Droz has placed time under the banner of astonishment, excellence and constantly renewed creativity—our Ateliers d’Art illustrates this perfectly." Watches with miniature paintings are masterpieces of métiers d’art and have become a staple at the highest end of watchmaking. The companies who help keep the métiers d’art alive continue to allow it to thrive by recruiting and training more artisans, ensuring that this art will not be lost to history. In the métiers d'art category, miniature painting is the clearest example of fine art applied to fine watchmaking. —Keith W. Strandberg

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The Cartier ClĂŠ De Cartier in yellow gold

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Cartier L E G A C Y: C A R T I E R

Over 160 Years of Superb Craftsmanship 111

The Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Neuchâtel, Switzerland

L E G A C Y: C A R T I E R

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Cartier is one of the best-known brands in the luxury goods world. Since its founding by Louis-François Cartier, Cartier has been the brand of choice for jewels and watches by royalty, the upper class and the chic set worldwide. The legend begins in 1847 in Paris, when Cartier took over the jewelry workshop of the man who took him on as an apprentice, Adolphe Picard. Here, we look at some key dates and creations in Cartier’s storied history. —Keith W. Strandberg

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L ELG EA GC AY C: YM : O CA NR TT B ILEARN C

1856

1912

Princess Mathilde, the niece of Napoleon I and the cousin of Emperor Napoleon III, buys her first piece from Cartier.

Cartier introduces its first mystery clock (Model A), as well s as the first Tortue model and the first comet clocks.

1870 Cartier creates numerous highly decorated timepieces for women, including chatelaine pieces.

1914 The panther motif is used for the first time on a ladies watch, created with diamonds and onyx on the bezel.

1904

1919

Louis Cartier creates a watch with a leather wrist strap for Brazilian aviator Alberto SantosDumont, perhaps the first of its kind for men.

Cartier launches the Tank watch, inspired by World War I tanks rolling through the streets of Paris.

1906 Cartier creates its first tonneau-shaped wristwatch.

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1932

L E G A C Y: C A R T I E R

A platinum Baguette wristwatch, fitted with the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smallest mechanical movement, is sold to Prince Tikkar de Kapurthala.

2007

1938

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier and the 9452 MC calibre, the first Cartier calibre to be stamped with the Geneva Seal, are introduced.

The smallest wristwatch in the world, by Cartier, is presented to Princess Elizabeth of England.

2010

1967

The Calibre de Cartier watch and the ID One concept watch are introduced.

The Cartier Crash is introduced, allegedly inspired by a mangled and melted watch that was actually involved in a car crash.

1983 The PanthĂ¨re de Cartier watch is introduced.

2004 Cartier celebrates 100 years of Santos Dumont watches, introducing the Santos 100, Santos Demoiselle and SantosDumont watches.

2015 Cartier introduces its most complicated timepiece to date, the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication.

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L E G A C Y: C A R T I E R

ABOVE: The Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Neuch창tel, Switzerland. BELOW: Watchmakers at work in the manufacture

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TOURBILLON

HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

WATCH JOURNAL

Alarm Automatic Movement Rattrapante Chronograph Dual Time Equation of Time Flyback Chronograph GMT Annual Calendar Perpetual Calendar Simple Calendar Minute Repeater Chronograph Grande Sonnerie Unidirectional Bezel Tourbillon Moon Phase Power Reserve Grand Complication Jumping Hour World Time Escapement Balance Wheel Gear Train Tachymeter Rotor Telemeter Pulsometer Big Date Retrograde Display 116

WATCH JOURNAL

HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

Tourbillon [\tur-'bil-y n\] e

breguet.com 646-692-6469 117

TOURBILLON

First patented in 1801 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the tourbillon mechanism helps to counterbalance the effect of gravity on a watch’s movement, therefore improving accuracy. In a tourbillon mechanism, the balance wheel and the escapement of the timepiece are encased in a cage that rotates continuously, therefore lessening the effect of gravity on the watch’s movement, especially when the piece is kept in a stationary position for long periods of time. In the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat, the tourbillon sits off-center—the automatic-winding watch also boasts an 80-hour power reserve.

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THE LIST Top Watch Retailers Across the Country

THE LIST

ARIZONA E.D. Marshall Jewelers 10261 N. Scottsdale Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85253 (480) 922-1968 Brands: Blancpain, Bremont, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet, Maurice Lacroix, Piaget Tourneau 7014 E. Camelback Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (480) 429-2304 Brands: Bell & Ross, Bremont, Tudor CALIFORNIA

T OP R ETA I L E R S

Ben Bridge 7007 Friars Rd. San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 291-7572 Brands at both stores: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe Bryant & Sons 812 State St. Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 966-9187 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe C.J. Charles 1135 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 454-5390 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre CH Premier Jewelers 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd., Ste. 1251. Santa Clara, CA 95050 (408) 983-2688 Brands: Patek Philippe, A Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Omega

Chong Hing Jewelers 390 Barber Lane Milpitas, CA 95035 (408) 577-0888 Brands at all stores: Patek Philippe, A Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Omega, JaegerLeCoultre, IWC Chong Hing Jewelers 140 W. Valley Blvd, Suite 119 San Gabriel, CA 91776 (626) 280-9195 Chong Hing Jewelers 18436 Colima Road, Suite A Rowland Heights, CA 91748 (626) 810-8883 Chatel & Co Jewelers Lincoln Street between Ocean & 7th Avenues Carmel, CA 93921 (888) 524-2835 Brands: Bell & Ross, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Richard Mille, Zenith David Orgell 262 N. Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 273-6660 Brands: Baume & Mercier, GirardPerregaux, JeanRichard, Maurice Lacroix, Perrelet, Ulysse Nardin Feldmar Watch Co. 9000 W. Pico Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90035 (310) 274-8016 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Hermès, Omega

Geary's 360 N. Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 887-4250 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex Milano Bijou 928 S. Western Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90006 (213) 382-1700 Brands: Vacheron Constantin, JaegerLeCoultre, Franck Muller, IWC Polacheck’s Jewelers 4719 Commons Way Calabasas, CA 91302 (818) 225-0600 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Tudor Shreve & Co. Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto, CA 94304 (650) 327-2211 Brands: Corum, IWC, Omega, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex Topper Fine Jewelers 1315 Burlingame Ave. Burlingame, CA 94010 (650) 347-2221 Brands: Ball, Ernst Benz, Glashütte Original, Longines, Omega, Zenith Tourbillon Boutique South Coast Plaza Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 800-1925 Brands at both stores: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

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231 Post St. San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 362-1525

8569 Sunset Blvd. West Hollywood, CA 90069 (310) 289-0808

Tourneau 3333 S. Bristol St. Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 966-1204 Brands include: Baume & Mercier, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Tudor

1227 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 459-2222

7007 Friars Rd. San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 296-8463

Hyde Park Jewelers Cherry Creek Shopping Center Denver, CO 80206 (303) 333-4446 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre

845 Market St. San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 974-1846 Traditional Jewelers 817 Newport Center Dr. Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 721-9010 Brands at both stores: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Rolex 200 Post St. San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 421-2600 Westime 216 North Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 888-8880 Brands at all stores: Audemars Piguet, Zenith, Franck Muller, Omega, Richard Mille, Ulysse Nardin

3832 Cross Creek Rd. Malibu, CA 90265 (310) 456-2555 COLORADO

Oster Jewelers 251 Steele St. Denver, CO 80206 (303) 572-1111 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Dior, Ulysse Nardin Betteridge Jewelers 141 E. Meadow Dr. Vail, CO 81657 (970) 790-6560 Brands: Bell & Ross, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor CONNECTICUT Betteridge Jewelers 117 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 869-0124 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren

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Lux Bond & Green 140 Glastonbury Blvd. Glastonbury, CT 06033 (860) 659-8510 Brands at all stores: Breitling, Cellini, Montblanc, Rolex, TAG Heuer 1 Mohegan Sun Blvd. Uncasville, CT 06382 (860) 862-9900

136 Main St. Westport, CT 06107 (203) 227-1300 169 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 629-0900 Manfredi Jewels 121 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 622-1414 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Breguet, F.P.Journe, Franck Muller, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin Shreve, Crump & Low 125 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Breitling, Bremont, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, TAG Heuer

Altier Jewelers 701 S. Federal Hwy. Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 395-3462 Brands: Cartier, Linde Werdelin, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren King Jewelers 18265 Biscayne Blvd. Aventura, FL 33160 (305) 935-4900 Brands: Bell & Ross, Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Les Bijoux 306 Plaza Real Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 361-2311 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels Levinson Jewelers 888 E. Las Olas Blvd. Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301 (954) 462-8880 Brands: Bulgari, Franck Muller, Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis Mayors Jewelers Town Center at Boca Raton Boca Raton, FL 33431 (561) 368-602 Brands at all stores: Cartier, Bulgari, Breitling, Patek Philippe 342 San Lorenzo Ave. Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 446-1233 7457 N. Kendall Dr. Miami, FL 33156 (305) 667-7517 4200 Conroy Rd. Orlando, FL 33431 (407) 363-5740 8001 S. Orange Blossom Trl. Orlando, FL 32809 (407) 859-3116

2223 N. Westshore Blvd. Tampa, FL 33607 (813) 354-8080 Tourbillon Boutique Miami Design District 140 N.E. 39th St. Miami, FL 33137 (305) 576-4571 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch Tourneau 5494 Tamiami Trl. N. Naples, FL 34108 (239) 591-1342 Brands include: Baume & Mercier, Frédérique Constant, Longines, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tourneau 320 San Lorenzo Ave. Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 448-6878 Aventura Mall Aventura, FL 33180 (305) 932-2280 Bal Harbour Shops Bal Harbour, FL 33154 (305) 866-4312

Yamron 5555 Tamiami Trl. N. Naples, FL 34108 (239) 592-7707 Brands: Breitling, Bulgari, Harry Winston, IWC, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin

Tourbillon Boutique 545 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 836-3800 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

GEORGIA

Tourneau 835 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 266-7600 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer

Tourneau 3393 Peachtree Rd. N.E. Atlanta, GA 30326 (404) 760-1883 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, IWC, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin HAWAII Ben Bridge Jeweler 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. Honolulu, HI 96814 (808) 955-0177 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe Tourneau 2301 Kalakaua Ave. Honolulu, HI 96815 (808) 922-4111 Brands: Blancpain, Devon, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin

Trabert & Hoeffer 111 E. Oak St. Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 787-1654 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin KANSAS Tivol 4721 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 66209 (913) 345-0200 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, David Yurman, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Rolex

ILLINOIS MARYLAND

175 Worth Ave. Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 832-8812 The Gardens Mall Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 694-6028 Weston Jewelers 1728 Main St. Weston, FL 33326 (954) 389-7990 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Chopard, Dior, Hublot, Montblanc

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C. D. Peacock Northbrook Court Northbrook, IL 60062 (847) 564-8030 Brands at all stores: Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer Oakbrook Center Oak Brook, IL 60523 (630) 571-5355 Woodfield Mall Schaumburg, IL 60173 (847) 619-6560 Old Orchard Center Skokie, IL 60077 (847) 679-1837

Liljenquist & Beckstead 7101 Democracy Blvd. Bethesda, MD 20817 (800) 719-1190 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe Radcliffe Jewelers 1848 Reisterstown Rd. Pikesville, MD 21208 (410) 484-2900 Brands at both stores: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai

T OP R ETA I L E R S

FLORIDA

The Gardens Mall Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 775-3600

140 University Town Center Dr. Sarasota, FL 34243 (941) 893-1124

THE LIST

46 La Salle Rd. West Hartford, CT 06880 (860) 521-3015

Hamilton Jewelers 215 Worth Ave. Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 659-6788 Brands at both stores: Breguet, Bulgari, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren

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825 Dulaney Valley Rd. Baltimore, MD 21204 (410) 321-6590

THE LIST

MASSACHUSETTS Lux Bond & Green 416 Boylston St. Boston, MA 02116 (617) 266-4747 Brands at both stores: Cellini, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor 60 Central St. Wellesley, MA 02482 (781) 235-9119 Royal Jewelers 58 Main St. Andover, MA 01810 (978) 475-3330 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer Shreve, Crump & Low 39 Newbury St. Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-9100 Brands at both stores: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin

T OP R ETA I L E R S

232 Boylston St. Chestnut Hill, MA 02467 (800) 225-7088 Tourneau Copley Place Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-8463 Brands include: Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor Burlington Mall Burlington, MA 01803 (781) 272-8463

MICHIGAN Darakjian Jewelers 101 Willits St. Birmingham, MI 48009 (888) 843-6659 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc, Ulysse Nardin Tapper's 27716 Novi Rd. Novi, MI 48377 (248) 465-1800 Brands at all stores: Cartier, David Yurman, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Raymond Weil, Tag Heuer, Tudor 6337 Orchard Lake Rd. West Bloomfield, MI 48322 (248) 932-7700 2800 W. Big Beaver Rd. Troy, MI 48084 (248) 649-2000 MINNESOTA Ben Bridge Mall of America Bloomington, MN 55425 (952) 814-9356 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe Wixon Jewelers 9955 Lyndale Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55420 (952) 881-8862 Brands: Baume & Mercier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor MISSOURI Clarkson Jewelers Clarkson/Clayton Shopping Center Ellisville, MO 63011 (636) 227-2006 Brands: Carl F. Bucherer, Frédérique

Constant, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor Tivol 220 Nicols Rd. Kansas City, MO 64112 (816) 531-5800 Brands: Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor NEVADA Bellusso at The Palazzo 3325 Las Vegas Blvd. S. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 650-2988 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Vacheron Constantin Ben Bridge 1300 W. Sunset Rd. Henderson, NV 89014 (702) 456-8807 Brands at both stores: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe 3200 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0003 Horologio Fine Watches 3377 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0016 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breitling, Franck Muller, Omega, Ulysse Nardin Roman Times Jewelers 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-8687 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Franck Muller, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin Tourbillon Boutique The Shops at Crystals Las Vegas, NV 89158

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(702) 597-0284 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch Tourneau Time Dome The Forum Shops at Caesars Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 732-8463 Brands: Bremont, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin Wynn Las Vegas Wynn Esplanade and Encore Esplanade (702) 770-3520 Brands: Breguet, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget NEW JERSEY Hamilton Jewelers 92 Nassau St. Princeton, NJ 08542 (609) 683-4200 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer The Timepiece Collection 58 E. Palisade Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631 (201) 894-1825 Brands: Audemars Piguet, GirardPerregaux, Harry Winston, Hermès, Omega, TAG Heuer Tourbillon Boutique The Mall at Short Hills Short Hills, NJ 07078 (973) 564-5864 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch NEW YORK Cellini 509 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10022 (212) 888-0505

Brands at both stores: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin Waldorf Astoria 301 Park Ave. New York, NY 10022 (212) 751-9824 London Jewelers 2 Main St. East Hampton, NY 11937 (631) 329-3939 Brands at all stores: Franck Muller, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Tudor 47 Main St. Southampton, NY 11968 (631) 287-4499 28 School St. Glen Cove, NY 11542 (516) 671-3154 180 Wheatley Plaza Greenvale, NY 11548 (516) 621-8844 2046 Northern Blvd. Manhasset, NY 10030 (516) 627-7475 Tourneau TimeMachine 12 E. 57th St. New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-7300 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin 510 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-5830

WA T C H J O U R N A L

3 Bryant Park New York, NY 10036 (212) 278-8041 630 Old Country Rd. Garden City, NY 11530 (516) 873-0209 125 Westchester Ave. White Plains, NY 10601 (914) 397-2301

Wempe 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 (212) 397-9000 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Chopard, Glashütte Original, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Longines, Montblanc, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin

TEXAS

Ben Bridge 9508 S.W. Washington Square Rd. Portland, OR 97223 (503) 603-1285 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe

Bachendorf's 8400 Preston Rd. Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 692-8400 Brands: Chanel, Chopard, IWC, Montblanc, Omega, TAG Heuer Tourbillon Boutique 8687 N. Central Expy. Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 346-3431 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

Shreve & Co. 640 Southwest Broadway Portland, OR 97205 (971) 295-5555 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Longines, Panerai, Patek Philippe PENNSYLVANIA Govberg Jewelers 65 St. James Pl. Ardmore, PA 19003 (610) 664-1715 Brands at both stores: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Dior, Panerai, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin

NORTH CAROLINA

526 S. Stratford Rd. Winston-Salem, NC 27103 (336) 721-1768 OHIO Mann Jewelers 26300 Cedar Rd. Beachwood, OH 44122 (216) 831-1119 Brands: Patek Philippe, Breguet, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai

Tourneau 160 N. Gulph Rd. King of Prussia, PA 19406 (610) 491-8801 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor TENNESSEE King Jewelers 4121 Hillsboro Pike Nashville, TN 37215 (615) 724-5464 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaquet Droz, Rolex, TAG Heuer

The Domain, 3401 Esperanza Crossing Austin, TX 78758 (512) 491-8014 8687 N. Central Express Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-2277 7040 N. Mesa St. El Paso, TX 79912 (915) 584-4700 303 Memorial City Mall Houston, TX 77024 (713) 935-9499

Tourbillon Boutique The Galleria 5085 Westheimer Rd. Houston, TX 77056 (713) 850-1056 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch Tourneau 13350 N. Dallas Pkwy. Dallas, TX 75240 (972) 661-1503 Brands include: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton 5015 Westheimer Rd. (713) 871-8282 Houston, TX 77056

Zadok Jewelers 1749 Post Oak Blvd. Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-8950 Brands: Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin VIRGINIA

5135 W. Alabama St. Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-1998 Eiseman Jewelers 8687 N. Central Express Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-6100

Tourneau Fashion Centre at Pentagon City Arlington, VA 22202 (703) 414-8463

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WASHINGTON Ben Bridge 143 Bellevue Sq. Bellevue, WA 98004 (425) 454-9927 Brands at both stores: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe 1432 4th Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 628-6800 Tourbillon Boutique Fairmont Olympic Hotel Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 442-9300 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

15900 La Cantera Pkwy. San Antonio, TX 78256 (210) 694-5654

Liljenquist & Beckstead Jewelers Tysons Galleria McLean, VA 22102 (703) 448-6731 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe

1096 Willowbrook Mall Houston, TX 77070 (281) 894-5799

Brands: Baume & Mercier, TAG Heuer, Cartier, IWC, Rolex

T OP R ETA I L E R S

Windsor Jewelers 6809-D Phillips Pl. Ct. Charlotte, NC 28210 (704) 556-7747 Brands at both stores: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin

1521 Walnut St. Philadelphia, PA 19102 (215) 546-6505

Ben Bridge Barton Creek Square Mall Austin, TX 78746 (512) 329-9066 Brands at all stores: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe

Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin

THE LIST

160 Walt Whitman Rd. Huntington Station, NY 11746 (631) 427-2649

OREGON

JAMIE GOODMAN

HUMOR

WA T C H J O U R N A L

“This can’t be right, how have we only been here for fifteen minutes?”

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