Watch Journal Summer 2015 by Watch Journal

Volume 18, N 5

All That’s Good in Time

Summer 2015

Watch Journal Featuring: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT

$10 USD

08 >

Introducing Philanthropy—Preserving the Wilds of Alaska Also: The Strength of Titanium. Les Voiles de St. Barth. Top Pilot’s Watches. Tennis Great Stan Wawrinka. Golfing with Cristie Kerr.

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Watch Journal Magazine, Summer 2015

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents DEPARTMENTS

CONTENTS

10 Masthead 12 Editor’s Letter 14 Founding Publisher’s Letter 16 Intelligence 28 Happenings 40 Profile Cristie Kerr, Harry Van Hulten, Stan Wawrinka 46 Collector Matthew Levin, David Woodhouse, Geoff Hess

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52 Play Ocean Prime, Beverly Hills 53 Stay Hotel Unique, São Paulo 55 Getaway Hotel Christopher, St. Barthélemy 56 Necessities

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents FEATURES

CONTENTS

72 Ball Watch Introducing the Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT. 80 Style Taking Flight: Top Pilot Watches. 90 Philanthropy Preserving Alaska With Jaeger-LeCoultre. 98 Feature: St. Barth Sailing Taking to the Seas With Richard Mille. 104 Feature: Timing Watches An In-Depth Look at Timing Functions. 108 Substance Carbon Fiber Goes the Distance.

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112 Manufacture The Lightweight Strength of Titanium. 116 Legacy Tudorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rich Heritage. 122 Guide Top Retailers in the Country, Watch Terminology, Horological Humor.

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Watch Journal

MASTHEAD

Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg SALES AND MARKETING

EDITORIAL

Publisher John Clarkin

Editor in Chief Hyla Bauer

Advertising Directors Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo

Associate Creative Director Michael Ryterband International Editor Keith W. Strandberg

Events Coordinator Simon Swig OPERATIONS

Assistant Editors Roxy Kirshenbaum Hally Wolhandler

Controller Miles Bingham

Designer Aaron Tripp

Finance & Operations Manager Braden Bradford

Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon

Executive Coordinator Laurie Sadove

Contributing Writer Carol Besler

WATCH JOURNAL LLC

Editor at Large Spencer Bailey Contributing Editor Justin Min

Board of Directors Eric Crown Marc Lotenberg Adam Sandow ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE Watch Journal LLC 601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507 New York, NY 10001 info@watchjournal.com

VO L U M E 18 , N

Founding Publisher Glen B. Bowen

Interns Sarah Claiborne Julia Lu Emily Manchester Christopher Malone Jenna Milliner-Waddell Nancy Seline Ng Max Rovo Elana Spivack Charlotte Tegen

Creative Consultants NoĂŤ & Associates ONLINE #watchjournal www.watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournal SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15 / International: $30 Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal LLC. Copyright 2015, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal. Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Editor’s Letter

Travel Time

EDITOR’S LET TER

Aah, summer! It’s time to escape, to fly away to distant lands or road-trip to the beach. Timekeeping has played an important role in human navigation for centuries. Accurately maneuvering the seas, and later the skies, has only been possible with good timepieces. The measurement of longitude proved to be especially challenging for sailors crossing the oceans, so much so that in 1714, the Longitude Act was passed in Britain. Determining longitude using the movement of the celestial bodies with lunar and star charts posed many problems. On cloudy or rainy days, observation of the skies was not possible, and an educated mathematician was required to solve the complex equations involved. Accurate timekeeping provided a more convenient solution to the problem. No clocks could keep time accurately enough over extended periods of time, nor were the clocks able to withstand the varying humidity and temperature levels inherent in traveling over the seas. The most accurate method invented to determine longitude garnered an award of 20,000 pounds. John Harrison eventually took the prize with his marine chronometer, marking a grand step forward in timekeeping history. Today, we don’t need to overly concern ourselves with basic navigation. We fly, take trains, and drive our cars without giving much thought to finding our way. In this issue, we explore watches made for modern-day travel needs. Ball Watch’s new Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT graces our cover with an accompanying article on the brand’s many innovations by Keith Strandberg (see “Ball Watch Takes to the Skies … Again,” page 72). We have photographed some of the top pilot watches in existence today (page 80), and we explain timing chronographs for multiple uses (page 104). I am delighted to introduce a new feature with this issue. Philanthropy has long been at the core of fine watchmaking, as luxury timepiece companies have a history of giving back to their local communities. We celebrate and applaud the charitable efforts of the leading brands in the watchmaking community, and will explore their contributions in every issue. This month, we share Jaeger-LeCoultre’s work with UNESCO in the feature story “Alaskan Adventure” (page 90). Happy summer, dear reader!

H Y L A B AU E R

— Hyla Bauer Editor in Chief

“Timekeeping has played an important role in human navigation for centuries. Accurately navigating the seas, and later the skies, has only been possible with accurate timepieces.” 12

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Founding Publisher’s Letter

It’s a Great Adventure

FOUNDING PUBLISHER’S LET TER

Celebrating the People Who Make Our Industry Great. Most of my close friends are in the watch industry. As a result, I have more friends in New York City, Miami and Los Angeles than in my own hometown of Houston, Texas. I would never have had the opportunity to develop so many lasting friendships in Switzerland, Germany and Italy without having founded this magazine. As they say in Hollywood, it’s been a great ride, and the highway ahead is looking bright with friends in the watch world. The entire Watch Journal team has made many special relationships that we all have enjoyed over many years in the business. The industry attracts and fosters the careers of so many wonderful and amazing executives—those leading the watch brands and directing retail, advertising and marketing in our field. We connect with them every day. Hyla Bauer and John Clarkin have brought their own watch industry friendships developed over many years to Watch Journal. Their years of combined experience at leading Conde Nast magazines is uniquely valuable to our publication. It would be hard for me to imagine another magazine with the same depth of influence within our luxury business. However vain it may sound, the truth is that we all love what we do: creating this incredible timepiece magazine for you. It takes a team effort to publish each issue of Watch Journal, yet often it doesn’t feel like work. Take for example the annual motorcycle ride that Keith and I organize each year in Las Vegas. We can get out from behind our desks, and spend time with industry friends on a more informal level, while enjoying a great adventure through the desert. Keith writes about our most recent ride in this issue. While all this sounds fun, the work does get done. The entire Watch Journal team loves making this magazine the best it can be each and every issue. And we will continue to do so, because this is our passion. Great job team!

GL EN B . B OW EN

—Glen B. Bowen Founding Publisher

“The industry attracts and fosters the careers of so many wonderful and amazing executives—those leading the watch brands and directing retail, advertising, and marketing in our field. ’’ 14

WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Titanio Pam 619

INTELLIGENCE

BELOW: The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days Acciaio Pam 610

PANERAI PROWESS Panerai recently introduced two new models: the Radiomir 8 Days Acciaio, and the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Titanium. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days Titanium features a 45 mm case made of both grade 2 and grade 5 titanium, with a polished bezel, a cylindrical winding crown and Super-LumiNova on the dial. The watch features Panerai’s distinctive small seconds dial at 9 o’clock. A sapphire case back reveals the P.4000 calibre automatic movement, the first for the brand. It has a power reserve of 72 hours. The Radiomir 8 Days Acciaio features the P.5000 caliber hand-wound movement, with an impressive 192 hours of power reserve. The dial features Panerai’s distinctive luminous Arabic numerals set on black. panerai.com

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INTELLIGENCE

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INTELLIGENCE

ABOVE: The Bell & Ross WW1 Edición Limitada

PREPARE FOR TAKEOFF

OPPOSITE: The Bell & Ross BR 03 Rafale

The new Bell & Ross Rafale timepiece is being released in a limited edition of 500, marking a new collaboration between Bell & Ross and Dassault Aviation. This is the second collaboration for the two companies, which together released the Vintage Falcon timepiece in 2013. The new Rafale pays homage to the supersonic, twin engine canard delta wing French fighter aircraft of the same name. The BR 03-94 Rafale features a mechanical chronograph movement inside a 42 mm matte black ceramic case that echoes the design of the airplane’s flight controls. The monochromatic camouflage gray dial and matte black rubber strap add to the distinctive look of this piece. The hands of the chronograph feature orange tips—an important color in aviation—and a tachymeter scale allows for speed calculation. bellross.com

INTELLIGENCE

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A NEW ROYAL OAK In May, Audemars Piguet presented its new Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher at the Corinna Schumacher CS Ranch in Givrins, Switzerland. The new timepiece took five years for the brand to create in collaboration with racecar driver Michael Schumacher—a partnership that came about when Schumacher challenged the manufacture to make a watch that could measure and record consecutive lap times. The brand will only release 221 pieces of the new watch—a number that commemorates the number of Formula One world championship races that Schumacher competed in before he retired. Institut du Cerveau et de la Moelle Epinière, an international brain and spinal cord research institute, will receive a portion of the proceeds from the sale of these special timepieces. They will be sold at the brand’s New York City and Bal Harbour shops. audemarspiguet.com

ABOVE: A view of the Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher's movement RIGHT: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

PARMIGIANI’S NEW PRESIDENT Parmigiani Fleurier recently welcomed Thierry Collot as its new President of the Americas. Collot, who is from France, previously worked for Spanish jeweler Carrera y Carrera, and has a Master of Business Administration degree from the École Supérieure de Commerce de Reims. He served for years and rose through the ranks at Andros Distributors, which was bought by LVMH in the late ’90s. In that role, Collot supervised distribution for TAG Heuer, Maurice Lacroix and Zenith, among others. He also served as brand director for Bertolucci Watches in the Americas, and brings nearly 20 years of experience to Parmigiani Fleurier, which is based in Val-de-Travers, Switzerland. The Swiss Haute Horlogerie brand is present in more than 70 countries on five continents. parmigiani.ch

BELLOW: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metrographe LEFT: Thierry Collot

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INTELLIGENCE

CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA Chopard has lent its support to the famous Mille Miglia race since 1988. That same year, Chopard launched the Chopard Mille Miglia collection and since then, the Scheufele family has taken part in the 1000mile race from Brescia to Rome, including a return. This year, Chopard is a proud World Sponsor and Official Timekeeper. With 436 crews on board, the 33rd edition of the race integrated drivers from more than 40 different nations. Honoring Chopardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s partnership with Porsche Motorsport, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele co-drove with his wife, Christine, in a Porsche 550A Spyder RS. Welcoming 120 guests and friends, Chopard hosted a special dinner on May 13 in the Palazzo della Loggia in the heart of Brescia. Guests were welcomed by a stunning Mille Migliaâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; inspired setting. The following day, guests and drivers visited the Chopard Racing Club situated in the famous hotel Vittoria to be in the presence of many exceptional vintage cars. chopard.com

RIGHT: The Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition BELOW: Albert Carreras at the 2015 Mille Miglia

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BLANCPAIN’S TRIBUTE TO CAPTAIN ROBERT MALOUBIER

INTELLIGENCE

Manufacture Blancpain and its President and CEO Marc A. Hayek announced the passing of Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier at the age of 92. During World War II, Maloubier served as a secret agent of the British Special Operations Executive and in the 1950s, together with Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, he was the founder and commander of the French military’s combat diving corps. Maloubier’s experience with the diving corps positioned him as an important figure in the history of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms watch. Understanding the needs of a diver enabled him (with Riffaud) to contribute valuable design and performance information to the brand. The two worked with Jean-Jacques Fiechter, a fellow diver and then CEO of Blancpain, to develop timepieces that would cater to a diver’s needs. In 1953, the shared vision of all three men resulted in the first modern diving watch from Blancpain called Fifty Fathoms. blancpain.com

RIGHT: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape BELOW: Captain Bob Maloubier

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OVERSEAS FOR THE SUMMER

INTELLIGENCE

Vacheron Constantin marked the summer by adding two watches to its Overseas collection. The strikingly blue Overseas and Overseas Dual Time watches come in 42 mm steel cases with a screw-lock crown. Both are marked with the distinctive features of the Overseas line (first presented in 1996): a bezel inspired by the Maltese cross (the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s emblem) and casebacks engraved with the Amerigo Vespucci three-mast ship. The Overseas (simple date) features a caliber 1226 SC, a mechanical self-winding movement and an aperture-type date display. The Overseas Dual Time features a self-winding caliber 1222 SC and a dual-time display with day/night indication as well as power reserve indication. The timepieces both have power reserves of 40 hours, and will be released in limited editions (300 for the Overseas and 350 for the Dual Time). The straps come in vulcanized rubber and alligator leather versions. vacheron-constantin.com

LEFT: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time BELOW: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas with the new blue dial

WA T C H J O U R N A L

LIKE A ROLLING STONE

TOP LEFT: A back view of the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones BOTTOM LEFT: The Rolling Stones BELOW: A front view of the new watch

INTELLIGENCE

As part of its 150th anniversary celebration, Zenith is releasing the El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones. Throughout the brand’s storied history of crafting fine timepieces, it has been heavily influenced by an enterprising spirit—as evidenced by the 1969 release of the original El Primero Chronomaster, which heralded of the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. In 1969, while the El Primero Chronomaster was making its debut around the world, a rock band from England known as The Rolling Stones was rocketing to the height of fame. These two powerhouses share the values of hard work, harmony and authenticity. To honor this 46-year-long friendship, Zenith is releasing the tribute watches as a special collectors’ watch, in an edition of 1000 pieces. zenith-watches.com

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

ABOVE AND OPPOSITE: Scenes from the Audemars Piguet International Golf Invitational OPPOSITE LEFT: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Concept GMT

TIME TO TEE OFF

On April 27, Swiss Haute Horlogerie brand Audemars Piguet held its fourth International Golf Invitational tournament at Half Moon Bay Golf Links near San Francisco. The event’s many festivities comprised a tasting of Napa Valley’s best-rated wines, a cocktail reception in the Penthouse at The Fairmont San Francisco, and a round of golf with seven of the brand’s ambassadors. Guests included 2014 FedEx Cup winner Billy Horschel, six-time champion Sir Nick Faldo, match play hero Ian Poulter, Miguel Ángel Jiménez and Open winner at St. Andrews in 2010 Louis Oosthuizen, among others. audemarspiguet.com 29

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

MIAMI MAISON Cartier celebrated the opening of its new two-story boutique in the Miami Design District in May by serving specialty cocktails on the rooftop of its new space. DJ Harley Veira-Newton spun tunes for the lively party, which also served to introduce Cartierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new collection, Paris Nouvelle Vague. This new 7,500-square-foot store includes a diamond salon and private viewing rooms for jewelry and watches, one of which was designed in the iconic style of the late Cartier creative director of high jewelry, Jeanne Toussaint. It features a white oak and sycamore library stocked with catalogues for clientele. Guests at the opening event included Bianca Brandolini, Cartier North America president and CEO Mercedes Abramo and Craig Robins. cartier.com

ABOVE: Bianca Brandolini, Hugues de Pins and Mercedes Abramo celebrate the opening RIGHT: An interior view of the new boutique

CHALLENGE

SEA-LINER

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WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

HIGH STAKES EXPEDITION A humanitarian and activist for renewable energy, Swiss eco-adventurer Raphaël Domjan recently set off on the Solar Arctic Passage polar expedition, led by Brittany yachtswoman Anne Quéméré. Wearing a DeWitt watch, Domjan will be the first to travel the 3,000 kilometers of the Northwest Passage in a solar-powered kayak. Such an expedition requires extensive preparation, as adventurers who have crossed the Arctic must face blizzards, ice floes, the sea and icy deserts. Domjan was not alone in his preparation; the Dewitt Academia Blackstream, worn by Domjan on his journey, has undergone extreme testing of its own. It has proven to be durable, water resistant and resistant to temperature change; the brand even went so far as to test the watch in a freezer. The expedition, which left Paris on June 13, is set to finish in early September, arriving at Pond Inlet in Canada. dewitt.ch

RIGHT: The DeWitt Academia Blackstream Chronograph BELOW: Raphaël Domjan

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

LEAVING LAS VEGAS For 17 years, Glen Bowen and Keith Strandberg have organized a motorcycle ride into the desert the day before the start of the Vegas watch shows—Couture, JCK, Swiss Watch and Luxury. This year, 12 riders rode into the Valley of Fire, where they experienced ribbons of pristine tarmac and incredible vistas. The group rode on to Overton, Nevada for lunch at Sugars, then to the Hoover Dam, stopping on the Arizona side for a quick break before heading back to Las Vegas Harley Davidson to return the bikes. Brand representatives joining this year included TAG Heuer, Reactor, Artya, Breva, Dietrich, Dubey & Schaldenbrand, Snyper and Manufacture Royal. “Being able to leave the Strip and ride through some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet is a real treat,” says Strandberg, the international editor of this magazine. “It’s a great chance to get to know people in the industry, while riding Harleys.”

TOP AND BOTTOM: On the road in Nevada

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

POWER LUNCH Geneva-based luxury watch manufacture Frédérique Constant supported Variety’s Power of Women Luncheon in New York City on April 24. A small group of the entertainment industry’s most philanthropic women were selected as the magazine’s Inspiration Impact Honorees. The exclusive luncheon, held at Cipriani Midtown, welcomed 400 invite-only guests including entertainment and media insiders. The event’s honorees included actresses Glenn Close, Whoopi Goldberg, Rachel Weisz and Lena Dunham. frederique-constant.com

ABOVE: Whoopi Goldberg and Olivier Zaugg OPPOSITE: Glenn Close

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

FINE WINE AND TIME Hublot recently debuted its latest timepiece with brand ambassador Kobe Bryant. Brand CEO Richard Guadalupe introduced the Big Bang Unico Chronograph Retrograde Kobe â&#x20AC;&#x153;Vinoâ&#x20AC;? Bryant at a private winery in Napa Valley. Guests at this exclusive press conference were also treated to a winemaking session with Bryant. The new watch is the first timepiece in the world designed to time both halves of a basketball game. After being introduced to the watch, guests went on a tour of the vineyard and a private lunch complete with wine pairings. hublot.com

ABOVE: Kobe Bryant RIGHT: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Chronograph Retrograde Kobe "Vino" Bryant

WATCH JOURNAL

PORSCHE PREMIERE

ABOVE: Gerhard Novak and Hyla Bauer with guests BELOW: A perfect fit

HAPPENINGS

Porsche Design unveiled its new collection, the Chronotimer Series 1, at an invitationonly event held at its Madison Avenue flagship store. The event was hosted in partnership with Watch Journal and the Balvenie scotch. Gerhard Novak, general manager, Porsche Design Timepieces, and Hyla Bauer, editor in chief of Watch Journal, introduced the new pieces to the assembled crowd, with the Balvenie providing scotch tastings paired with the timepieces. The new series is a first for Porsche, as its movements were designed and crafted entirely in-house. The case designs are influenced by the brand’s first timepieces, including its first 1972 all-black watch, which was influenced by Porsche’s automobile design. All of the brand’s watches created since can trace their design inspiration back to the cars, and titanium—first used in racing cars for its lightweight strength—is employed in the new collection. porsche-design.com

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

ZENITH ZOOMS The 24th Edition of the Tour Auto Optic 2000 may just have been the most suspenseful yet, but the real winner of the race was Swiss watchmaker Zenith. In addition to acting as the official timekeeper of the event, Zenith sponsored three drivers in the race: Daniel Spadini (who co-drove a 1964 Jaguar E3.8L with brand president and CEO Aldo Magada), Dominique Vananty and Felix Baumgartner. Baumgartner became a household name in 2012 for his famous â&#x20AC;&#x153;space skydive,â&#x20AC;? breaking the speed of sound while plummeting to Earth from the stratosphere and effectively becoming a Swiss national hero. Zenith took pride in its drivers as well as its horological work for the Tour, and awarded an El Primero Chronomaster as a prize. zenith-watches.com

ABOVE: Felix Baumgartner in his car LEFT: Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969

CRISTIE KERR

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

CRISTIE KERR By Keith W. Strandberg

The Pro Golfer and Working Mother on the Value of Time.

WATCH JOURNAL OPPOSITE: Cristie Kerr RIGHT: The Richard Mille 007

PROFILE

“There are a lot of demands on the life of a pro athlete, businesswoman and mother. For me, the secret to everything is continuing to meet obligations while still carving out enough personal time to be at peace.” —Cristie Kerr Kerr wears her RM 007 Titanium with a white rubber band on her right wrist because she is left-handed. She even wears the watch while playing. “I enjoy having it with me. I think it’s an expression of me, a piece of me, and plus, I never want to be late for a tee time!” The athlete’s perception of time is different when she is in action. “Time slows down when I am playing at the top of my game, and I find that I am in control of everything around me, including my golf ball,” she explains.

“There are a lot of demands on the life of a pro athlete, businesswoman and mother,” she adds. “For me, the secret to everything is continuing to meet obligations while still carving out enough personal time to be at peace. Time is a constant challenge in life for someone like myself who is always seeking new projects, goals and experiences. Balancing time is critical.” There are three watches that are important to Kerr: the Rolex watch she received for winning her first LPGA event, a blue Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore she bought for herself when she won the US Open and the Richard Mille 007, which celebrates becoming a mother and her new partnership with the brand. “I think that the Richard Mille RM 026 Tourbillon is one of the most beautiful watches I have ever seen,” she adds. “The watch features two intertwined snakes on the face, which carries a lot of meaning for me personally, as myself, my husband and son were all born in the year of the snake.” Keep watching her wrist.

CRISTIE KERR

Cristie Kerr grew up in Miami playing golf against girls and boys her own age and older, competing at the highest levels early on. “I think that early experience taught me the importance of hard work, determination and practice,” Kerr says. “I was motivated by players who were better than me, and it made me want to become a better player.” Kerr’s interest in watches goes back to her first LPGA tour win. “First-time winners are presented with a Rolex to commemorate the win,” she says. “I was very proud. I quickly learned about the craftsmanship and expression of style that different watches speak to. Much like a golf swing is very identifiable for a player, watches can convey the traits and characteristics of their wearers.” Kerr is an ambassador for Richard Mille, and wears the RM 007 Titanium on and off the links. “I played golf with Bubba Watson a few years ago and was immediately drawn to his Richard Mille timepiece. Richard Mille watches, to me, are the epitome of luxury watch design, style, functionality and elegance,” she says. “The brand is led by a true trailblazer and tastemaker in Richard Mille. His creativity and vision are contagious and admirable.”

H A R RY VA N H U LT E N

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

HARRY VAN HULTEN By Keith W. Strandberg

Flying to the Edge of the Atmosphere and Beyond.

WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

“I think I can make a valuable contribution here. That’s important for me and for future generations.” XCOR and Hulten have partnered with Luminox to make timepieces uniquely suited for space travel. “Time is important and pilots and astronauts are aware of that,” Hulten says. “What we wear is dictated by safety requirements. One of the very few things we can choose is our watch. Pilots and astronauts may not always admit it, but

“Going to space is my dream. I have tremendous admiration for the people who have gone before us.” —Harry van Hulten watches are very important to us.” Hulten believes Luminox is a perfect choice. “Luminox has a lot in common with XCOR,” he says. “We are young in our business, have great entrepreneurial spirit and are not afraid to lead the way. I have great admiration for the achievements of Luminox. And, they asked XCOR to provide input for the new line of XCOR watches— how cool is that?”

Piloting a space aircraft is not the safest occupation, which Hulten acknowledges. “I am aware of the danger,” he says. “I have learned to fly high performance aircrafts professionally on the edge and beyond in the best training environments in the world. Analyzing and reducing associated risk was a crucial part of everything we did. What looks dangerous to some is business as usual for others.” Currently, Hulten lives in Breda, a city in the south of the Netherlands, with his family. “The next place to live will be determined by my job, flying the Lynx, which will take me to Mojave, California for a while. We’ll see where life takes us afterward.”

LEFT: Harry Van Hulten RIGHT: The Luminox XCOR Space Expeditions AnaDigi 5240 Series

H A R RY VA N H U LT E N

Space has famously been called the final frontier, but lately, the concept of commercial space travel is moving closer to reality. Leading the race to space is a company called XCOR Space Expeditions, which is currently in the testing phase of its Lynx spacecraft. The Lynx is a piloted, two-seat, fully reusable liquid rocket-powered spaceplane that takes off and lands horizontally like an airplane. The Lynx spacecraft is designed to be a robust, multimission (for research or private spaceflight) commercial vehicle capable of flying to altitudes of more than 100 kilometers up to four times per day. I caught up with Harry Van Hulten, XCOR’s leading test pilot, in his Amsterdam office. “Flying is my passion,” Hulten says. “Going to space is my dream. Making space accessible for almost everyone is my ambition. I get to do all three at the same time. There’s no way not to enjoy that!” Hulten says he’s drawn to space by a number of factors. “First of all, curiosity drives me—what will it be like?” he wonders. “Second, I have tremendous admiration for the people who have gone before us. Last but not least, I have done most of the required training to do this. If guys like me don’t do it, who will? It’s my calling, my mission.” For Hulten, it’s not just a job, but a chance to do something important. “I think it’s our duty to make the most of our lives and try to make a difference,” he explains.

S T A N WAW R I N K A

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

STAN WAWRINKA By Keith W. Strandberg

The Tennis Champion on the Importance of Time.

WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

Tennis star Stan Wawrinka is proud to be Swiss and represent his country in the Davis Cup between his professional matches. Being Swiss, he is also aware of the importance of the watch industry, and he is excited to be working with Audemars Piguet. “Thanks to a friend of a friend, I got to

know the Audemars Piguet family a few years ago in Gstaad, the site of the Swiss Open,” Wawrinka explains. “Audemars Piguet is an amazing brand. It has been a

Wawrinka loves watches and is looking forward to collaborating with AP on designing a watch. “I’m really impressed by how people create watches, all the little pieces and the precise work needed to create those pieces of art,” he says. “I have been wearing the Perpetual Calendar, but also pieces from the Royal Oak Offshore collection, the Diver and the Chronograph, so for my next watch, I might choose a model with a complication.” When Wawrinka is not competing and training, he enjoys spending time with his family and friends—“and watching an ice hockey match sometimes,” he says. He hasn’t given much thought to what life after professional tennis is going to be like. “Hopefully there’s still some time before I have to make a decision about that,” he says with a smile.

OPPOSITE: Stan Wawrinka ABOVE: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

S T A N WAW R I N K A

“There is no big secret to success. It’s a lot of hard work and passion for the sport. You have to enjoy getting up early in order to practice and work, both on and off the court.” —Stan Wawrinka

family-owned brand since its creation, which is very fascinating, and you can feel this passion when you meet the people involved with AP. I like both the design and the movements. It’s amazing how complex a mechanical watch can be.” Unlike many athletes, Wawrinka wears his Audemars Piguet watch while playing. “It’s quite nice to wear it during matches,” he says. “I’m very proud to be an ambassador of AP and to wear my watch all the time.” He explains that time slows during a match because of his intense focus. “But once the match is over, I know how long it lasted,” he says. Indeed, Wawrinka’s life is very much governed by time, and his AP Quantieme Perpetual keeps him on schedule. “It’s important to be punctual, I don’t want to keep other people waiting,” he says. “I’m always on a schedule for travel, practice, matches and more. Being on time is crucial in my job. When asked about the secret to his success, he says there isn’t one. “It’s a lot of hard work and passion for the sport. You have to enjoy getting up early in order to practice and work, both on and off the court.”

WATCH JOURNAL

M AT T H E W L E V I N

COLLECTOR

MATTHEW LEVIN Executive Vice President Head of Global Strategy for Aon

“I’m a big fan of watches that have complications that are helpful for what I do.”

WATCH JOURNAL OPPOSITE: Matthew Levin BELOW, LEFT TO RIGHT: The Girard-Perregaux Traveller The Glashutte Original Perpetual Calendar The IWC Portofino 8 Days

COLLECTOR

the Girard Perregaux in white gold, a world timer with a perpetual calendar. I also have an IWC 8-Day Power Reserve. That was a 40th birthday present from my wife. She thought it would be very versatile in my wardrobe. I have a Glashutte Pano Annual Calendar, which is what I wear at work all the time. I got that one because we closed the largest M&A transaction of my career. It goes really well with a suit, it’s not too thin and I like the fact that I have the calendar. The Zenith I have is the Stratos El Primero Movement. It’s the watch I probably wear the most, outside of the Glashütte, on the weekends. And if I smash it against the mountain while I’m skiing, I’ll feel less pissed off than if I broke my Perregaux. For another big milestone—maybe my 50th birthday— I want a Richard Mille, maybe the Rafael Nadal edition. I play tennis every time I’m in town. I know a lot of people who have very nice work watches, but they’ll wear an Iron Man Casio on the weekend. I never really understood that, because there are a lot of sports watches that are cool that can do a lot of the same functions. My Girard Perregaux weighs a ton, because it’s white gold and has all the complications. Its a heavy watch. If I put on something super light—a sports watch like a Casio—it almost doesn’t feel like I’m wearing a watch, because I’m used to something that’s a little heavier. I like that heavy feeling.” —As told to Hyla Bauer

M AT T H E W L E V I N

“I remember distinctly when my father bought a gold Rolex Submariner at Bailey Banks & Biddle for his 40th birthday. It was a gift from my mom to my dad and it was something he always wanted, that was more than he could afford. Watches were a vehicle to celebrate an accomplishment, but mostly to memorialize or acknowledge an event. Every time he checks the time, he’s reminded of a gift from my mother, something that she had to work very hard to be able to buy. Probably as a reflection of the gift for my dad, I think I got into watches because I liked this idea that they were a reward or an acknowledgement of something special in your life, or a gift for something important. For example, I run marathons, I do triathlons and I do silly sailing events, and I already had a Rolex Submariner, which was a gift from my dad—the same one he got—after I got my first job after business school. I had always used that for exercising, but it would always get nicked up, so I always wanted a quartz watch that was more accommodating for sports—something that wouldn’t scratch, that had a rubber strap, but I had to accomplish something meaningful to get it, so I got a Zenith watch after we closed a very important M&A transaction. I’m a big fan of watches that have complications that are helpful to what I do. I travel a lot to places like India, Singapore, China and Brazil. So I like a world timer if I’m in India and I have to do a call and I don’t know what time it is at home. My slow brain doesn’t work that fast. I have

WATCH JOURNAL

D AV I D W O O D H O U S E

COLLECTOR

DAVID WOODHOUSE Design Director, Lincoln Motor Cars

“I love the look of watches and pairing watches with attire and fashion. That I think is really, really cool.” 48

WATCH JOURNAL

COLLECTOR

ever. I’m sitting here today and I’ve got one of my friends Bradley, from Autodromo, I’ve got one of his prototype watches on. I’ve got on a pale yellow tie, so of course the watch I chose today has a small band of yellow in the face. I can’t tell you I am in the watch culture because I just simply collect watches that I really love and that mean something to me and and that mean something to the cars or how I want to dress. I don’t trade watches or buy and sell them, and I don’t really get that wrapped up with the detail of how they work, or the mechanisms. I love the look of watches and pairing watches with attire and fashion. That I think is really, really cool. I think it’s interesting for me, the energy and vigor of companies that have really good people, at certain points in time, and I think at this point in time, Bell & Ross are doing amazing things. I know some of the people there and I have a BR-01 from when it came out, I think over 10 years ago. I’d love to get the original James Bond watch, the Rolex Submariner. I mean it’s just such a classic, so I think anything Bond related I’m a bit obsessed about, so I think the Submariner would still be on my list.” —As told to Roxy Kirshenbaum

OPPOSITE: David Woodhouse ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: An Autodromo Prototype A Rolex Submariner The Bell & Ross BR-01

D AV I D W O O D H O U S E

“It goes back to my childhood and parents. I grew up around a garage business. My mom and dad were garage proprietors. A lot of us car designers have a big interest in design, and cars are mechanical things. Watches are a very natural fit with all of that. So that’s one thing. Art was my favorite subject at school; combining a car interest and art seemed pretty natural. My dad was a pretty elegant chap. Some of my watches are ones he gave me, which he kind of discarded when I was very young, one of them was his 21st birthday present from his parents. I was being given vintage watches at a young age, and I always remember he was very obsessed with slim line watches. My collection has grown in a number of areas. I collect and restore vintage race cars. I love the design and graphics of all [car] gauges. Of course, with cars, I’m always looking for similar clarity and structuring from automotive gauges to the watches that I really love. My wife says I’m fashion forward, which is a polite way of saying that I’m probably a bit weird in my dress. No, but I will say, I think my collection has developed around either automotive influences, or simply, I love putting watches with clothes. I love to drive to dress or dress to drive my classic cars, and with any attire I always try and match the watch with what I’m wearing. Same with my shoes or eyewear or what-

WATCH JOURNAL

GEOFF HESS

COLLECTOR

GEOFF HESS President, Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry

“If I think about what the aspects are of watch collecting that make it special to me, without question, the first thing on the list would be the people I’ve met through this hobby.” 50

WATCH JOURNAL

COLLECTOR

OPPOSITE: Geoff Hess ABOVE: Two examples of rare Rolex watches made for Comex–the French Compagnie Maritime d'Expertise– owned by Hess and a friend

When we talk about watches, we focus on the metal itself, the dial itself, on the hardware itself, but it's really about the story that goes with the watch, the people that go with the watch, and that can come in a variety of different ways. Collectors often use the word ‘provenance.’ You see it most readily with vintage military watches, and I think that’s why they have such a great following. You think about a watch, for example, a military Rolex, that was a watch that was issued to the British Ministry of Defense. And you think about, okay, who had that watch? Where did it go? Was this a watch issued to the Army, or was it a watch issued to the Navy? What are the engravings on the back, what do they mean? I have a Paul Newman Daytona that came from the original owner. I have a three page letter about how this guy in the UK came to get this watch. He’s not a famous guy and there’s no way of looking him up, but I have the original purchase receipt that has his name on it, I have a copy of his passport, and a three page letter from him about how he came to secure this watch, how he saw it in the window of a store in the UK and bought it. I try to tell people it’s sort of like art collecting and the study of art. Each watch has so many different characteristics, especially when it comes to vintage watches. Because of this, I’ve developed so much respect for certain people because they study this their whole lives.” —As told to Hyla Bauer

GEOFF HESS

“The Eagle Beak [Rolex] is a great watch to analyze. A lot of the joy in this watch comes from looking at its various elements and thinking about what makes each of those particularly special, in this case. Watch collectors often use the expression ‘it ticks all the boxes.’ For me, this is a watch that does that. It’s a tropical dial, so it’s a very even brown, a very creamy, coppery, caramel type of brown. The chapter ring—that circle around the edge—that’s somewhat coveted. If we look at this bezel, first and foremost it has a red triangle, which is very rare. Moreover, the bezel is faded to a nice, very light gray. When it was born it was probably much more of a jet black, and the numbers are what we would call ‘fat font.’ On a more modern bezel, the font would be a little thinner. It has what are called ‘eagle beak’ crown guards, because they kind of look like the beaks of eagles. They were made only in 1959, which represents a brief stage in the development of a crown guard for Rolex. Crown guards started being square, and the divers that used them found that to be cumbersome. So this was a part of the evolution of Rolex developing its hardware for a real purpose: for a diver. If I think about what the aspects are of watch collecting that make it special to me, without question, the first thing on the list would be the people I’ve met through this hobby—it has introduced me to a set of friends who are so important to me and so near and dear to me, and the vast majority of them don’t even come from America.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

OCEAN PRIME BEVERLY HILLS Exuding the Classic Charm of Beverly Hills.

The design of new seafood hotspot Ocean Prime Beverly Hills was a collaboration between design studio Icrave and Cameron Mitchell Restaurants (the group behind the place). With décor inspired by vintage Beverly Hills, the southern California specialty seafood eatery boasts a modern facade composed of steel, wood and glass cubes. Jasmine and windmill palms complete the lush atmosphere created by the blue-and-cream color scheme of the outdoor terrace seating. Keeping with the soft color tones, a honey glow coming from the wood-clad winebar illuminates the entrance to the restaurant. The main dining area is more intimate, with a darker color scheme and luxe seating in the main restaurant and the private dining rooms. Glamorous artwork that evokes old Hollywood—commissioned from local artists— adorns the walls, while oak floors, glossy tiles, plush upholstery and custom-made light fixtures add opulent details to the interior. All in all, the new Ocean Prime offers delicious old-world elegance and glamour to its Beverly Hills neighborhood, and will quickly become a local favorite. ocean-prime.com

Photos by Eric Laignel

P L AY

By Emily Manchester

BELOW AND RIGHT: Views of the Ocean Prime Beverly Hills OCEAN PRIME 9595 Wilshire Boulevard

O C E A N P R I M E B E V E R LY H I L L S

Beverly Hills, CA 90212

WA T C H J O U R N A L RIGHT: A view of the outside of Hotel Unique BELOW: A guest room at the hotel HOTEL UNIQUE Avenida Brigadeiro Luis Antonio, 4700 Jardim Paulista, São Paulo, Brazil

Photos courtesy Design Hotels

S T AY

Boarding a Luxe Ocean Liner Without Leaving Dry Land. By Emily Manchester

Like a ship at port, Hotel Unique waits patiently in Jardins, São Paulo for guests to board. The stunning shiplike structure was designed by Brazilian architect Ruy Ohtake, with interiors by designer João Armentano. An arched copper facade speckled with porthole windows frames the floorto-ceiling glass-windowed lobby, and desert gardens offer an ironic but spectacular setting for this permanently docked boat. The curvilinear theme continues throughout the hotel’s interior. Guests are first greeted in the lobby by The Wall, a restaurant and bar characterized by a large wall filled with wine bottles and books. The hotel’s other restaurant, Skye, directed by French chef Emmanuel Bassoleil, is located on the roof. Panoramic views of Ibirapuera Park and the horizon of São Paulo, as well as a crimson-lit pool and lounge area, complete the dazzling and decadent outdoor space.

Hotel Unique has 85 rooms and 10 suites, which feature plasma TVs and Jacuzzi tubs. An indoor swimming pool, fitness center, library and saunas add to the getaway experience, making disembarking to dry land optional. hotelunique.com.br

HOTEL UNIQUE

Photos courtesy Hotel Christopher

G E T AWAY

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HOTEL CHRISTOPHER

ABOVE: A guest room RIGHT: Views of the hotel's expansive pool

A secluded oceanfront hideaway on the legendary island of St. Barth.

POINTE MILOU

HOTEL CHRISTOPHER

St. Barthélemy, France

By Emily Manchester The Hotel Christopher offers a tranquil escape in Pointe Milou on the island of St. Barthélemy. Overlooking the sea with views of neighboring islands, this luxurious spot sits among the island’s lush gardens. Fresh off a threeyear renovation with help from local designer Cristina Rodriguez, the revamped hotel offers the ultimate island experience and features eight room choices, all of which boast stunning views. With the windows open, the sound of waves breaking against the shore can be heard from each modern and elegantly appointed guest room. Other room features include lava-stone sinks, rainfall showerheads and Egyptian cotton sheets. Additionally, the Aloes Jacuzzi Suite features a hot tub on the terrace. Natural stones, teak furnishings and rich neutrals intermixed with pops of tropical colors characterize all the rooms. The Hotel Christopher has two restaurants: the casual pool-bar Mango and upscale dining spot Taïno. Guests who desire an extra dose of relaxation can visit the hotel’s tranquil Spa Sisley for aromatic treatments and massages. hotelchristopher.com

G E T AWAY

HOTEL CHRISTOPHER

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FERRARI Price Upon Request (866) 788-6760 ferrari.com

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NECESSITIES T R A N S P O RT

FAST COMPANY Ferrari’s new California T is the latest iteration of the recently designed model that is quickly becoming iconic among automobile aficionados. The California T is an elegant, refined and more comfortable version of the sportier FF, but it still retains the power that makes a Ferrari the racing machine that it is. EFFICIENCY EXPERTS The California T’s biggest innovation is its turbocharged V8 engine. It combines the performance, torque and sound of a conventional Ferrari engine, but with

the additional benefit of the fuel efficiency that turbocharging provides. RACING AHEAD The new California T boasts some of the most innovative features available today both in the engine and the interior. The sumptuously hand-finished cabin is trimmed in luxury semi-aniline leather, and the trunk is designed to be spacious even with the top down. Each model also features CarPlay, Apple’s device-operating vehicle software.

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FERRAGAMO $750 (866) 337-7242 driver.ferragamo.com

ICONIC The iconic Salvatore Ferragamo Driver is back—and better than ever. Evoking the sleek minimalism of sports cars, these shoes are specially designed for ultimate comfort and quality. GETTING PERSONAL For the first time ever, Ferragamo Drivers are customizable. With the new MTO Driver program, customers can choose from the highest quality materials and classic colors to make their pairs one-of-a-kind.

#FERRAGAMOESCAPE The next chapter of Ferragamo’s #ManStory will follow the jetsetting lifestyle of race car driver Mathias Lauda, SoundCloud founder Alexander Ljung and photographer Johannes Huebl. These men embody the confidence and sophistication of the quintessential Ferragamo man—and the luxurious and adventurous essence of the Driver shoe. The hashtag #FerragamoEscape will keep up with these international trendsetters throughout the year as they travel the world in style.

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GAASTRA $67 +49 38874 899653 gaastraproshop.com

A HISTORY AT SEA Douwe Gaastra began his sailmaking business in 1897 in Sneek, The Netherlands. Today, Gaastra exists as a nautical lifestyle brand, but it still works to fulfill its founder’s goal of reinventing and upholding the country’s tradition of nautical quality, with clothes, shoes and accessories made for the active life at sea. HIGH PERFORMANCE The Dolphin Beach men’s swimsuit comes in a fast-drying material with two swing pockets on the front, a cord in the waistband, a coin pocket on the inside of the shorts

and a back pocket with a Velcro closure for convenience. The interior is lined with mesh. COOL CONNECTIONS Gaastra partners with sailing events all over the world like Les Voiles de Saint Barth and Copa del Rey. The brand also sponsors professional sailing teams like the Quantum Racing Team and the Jethou, and the Scheepvaart Maritime Museum in Amsterdam.

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BRIONI $5,985 (212) 376-5777 brioni.com

TRAVELING IN STYLE This supple leather garment bag by Brioni is the perfect traveling companion for a short-haul business trip. Suits and shirts arrive unwrinkled, and the bag’s soft yet durable calfskin leather will go the distance for years to come. BRIONI, A BRAND CON BRIO Master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and entrepreneur Gaetano Savini opened the first Brioni tailoring shop in Rome in 1945. From there, the brand blossomed, presenting its first Florence fashion show in 1952, and later opened boutiques internationally. The company has even

dressed leading men in blockbuster films. Today, Brioni is one of the most respected Milanese fashion houses, crafting everything from leather garment bags to custom men’s suits. SU MISURA Su misura translates from Italian to “made-to-measure,” an apt title for Brioni’s custom line. The brand’s identity revolves around the age-old tradition of the bespoke suit, and its incomparable attire not only brings comfort and style to the modern man, but perpetuates this tradition of exquisite craftsmanship.

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BERTONI $50,000 +39 0332 263466 bertonivaligeria.it

LETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PLAY Bertoni, the Italian maker of luxury luggage and bags, has paired up with Hangar Design Group to create the Game Trunk, a chest to fill with amusements. The travel trunk is the perfect home for storing a precious set of dominos, an antique chess set, a deck of poker cards and other games. LUXE MATERIALS White leather parchment and black spiked alligator skin cover the outside of the trunk, while the interior is made of sturdy, elegant anthracite-colored oak. Resting on

steel folding legs coated with alligator, the Game Trunk is an elegant accent for any living room and the ultimate storage for gaming treasures. FAMILY TRADITION Bertoni and Hangar Design Group revealed the Game Trunk at the Milan Design Week Fair in April 2015. Their previous collaboration was the Nomad travel desk, which debuted at last year's fair. Bertoni, a familyowned company in its third generation, has been making luxury bags and suitcases since 1949.

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BACCARAT $510 (800) 215-1300 baccarat.com

AMBER SC ENT Baccarat Crystal debuted its eau de parfum Rouge 540 in 2014 as part of its 250th anniversary celebration. This year the iconic brand has unveiled the Rouge 540 candle, with the same woody floral scent of the perfume, made exclusively for Baccarat by Francis Kurkdjian. HEIGHTENED SENSES The crystal votive’s design is inspired by Rouge 540’s bottle, which was created by Georges Chevalier, Baccarat’s artistic director throughout most of the 20th century. He crafted the multifaceted design using the rouge à l’or

technique employing 24 karat gold powder. ROYAL BEGINNINGS Baccarat was created by King Louis XV of France in 1765, who founded it to make use of the natural resources in the Baccarat region of France. As the company developed its techniques and craftsmanship, it became the first French company to compete with foreign crystal makers, and helped boost the country’s economy after the Seven Years War.

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SUB-ZERO Prices vary by style (800) 222-7820 subzero-wolf.com

GET TING C HILLY WITH IT Sub-Zero recently introduced a new line of wine coolers and storage units with enhanced performance features: precise temperature control in two separate zones (one for red wine, one for white), UV resistant glass, soft LED lights, a darker interior and dual evaporators. BAT TLING THE ELEMENTS The new line of wine storage units focuses on combating the four enemies of wine preservation: temperature, ultraviolet light, humidity and vibration. It is imperative to store wine at 55 degreesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;otherwise chemical changes

can occur, accelerating the aging process. Dark storage is also important because too much exposure to UV light can change the odor and taste of the wine. ORGANIZ ATIONAL SKILLS Tile inventory systems help organize and keep track of different wines. They include common grape types like Chardonnay, and blank tiles may be purchased for customized options. Additional storage accommodates larger bottles and dessert wines.

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MOTOROLA $199 (888) 331-3383 motorola.com

THE CAT’S MEOW The new Motorola Scout 5000 Pet Collar is the latest in wearable technology for pets, allowing owners to stay connected with their furry friends from anywhere in the world. Launching this summer, the collar is poised to revolutionize the world of pet security monitoring. LIFE THROUGH FIDO’S EYES The Scout 5000’s salient feature is its built-in Wi-Fi camera, which streams live video of whatever Fido sees to his owner’s smartphone. If you see he’s misbehaving, you can use twoway audio communication to tell him to stop.

PEACE OF MIND The waterproof collar is equipped with cellular and wireless technologies that enable owners to track their pets via GPS, as well as receive notifications if Elvis the cat has left the building. It also sends bark notifications, tracks rest activity and takes temperatures.

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TECH

TESLA $3,000-$3,500 (844) 248-3752 teslamotors.com

EARTH FRIENDLY Tesla Motors has found a solution for sustainable energy efficiency within the home: Powerwall. Using electricity generated from solar panels, Powerwall provides energy for an entire house, reducing commercial consumption while also providing backup power, load shifting and increasing use of solar power generation—all stored in a rechargeable lithium ion battery with liquid thermal control.

POWER PLAY The world consumes enough energy in a single year to supply energy to a nuclear power plant for 2,300 years– that’s 20 trillion kWh of energy. A third of all fossil fuel in the U.S. is used for transportation, while another third goes toward electricity production. CURRENT ALTERNATES The Tesla Powerwall comes in 7 kWh and 10 kWh models (both are wall mounted). With a 10 year warranty, Tesla is compatible with indoor and outdoor environments, operational in -4 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit.

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RALPH LAUREN $5,950 (888) 475-7674 ralphlauren.com

SUPER COOPER The Cooper saddle bag by Ralph Lauren carries all of your life's necessities in style. This durable menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s satchel brandishes a luxurious leather exterior, a gleaming security lock and a removable leather shoulder strap with a key pouch. LEATHER LOVE Crafted in Italy, this calfskin leather bag undergoes a laborious five-day tanning process to create its suave exterior. Polished buckles and a brass Cooper lock adorn the sides to secure the leather flap opening. The twill-lined interior

features a large pouch pocket on one side and a zip pocket on the other. Its two rolled leather handles and optional shoulder strap make it versatile, and hand-stitched reinforcements ensure longevity. BACK IN THE SADDLE The original Cooper bag, named for its English creator, was initially designed as a saddle carrier in the late 1800s. This equestrian aspect endures in its current iteration, perfectly combining comfort and style.

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HERMÈS $8,050 (800) 441-4488 usa.hermes.com

HORSE PL AY Hermès created the Cavale saddle with help from French equestrian Simon Delestre. Built for high-level showjumping, the saddle’s widened panels allow the horse to move with freedom over fences. KEEPING UP APPE AR ANC ES The saddle was designed to withstand wear and tear, and to maintain its new elegant appearance and shape over time. The seamless seat, also available in black, provides true comfort for the rider. The Cavale’s size and finish can be customized to fit both the rider and the horse.

ALL INC LUSIVE Hermès is no stranger to equestrian goods: It started making saddles in 1837. The storied brand announced its partnership with the United States Equestrian Federation in August 2014, and it provides clothing and accessories for the American teams competing in the eight international equestrian disciplines. The sporting collection features men’s and women’s apparel from caps to sports coats— and even ear nets for the horses.

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JOHN HARDY Price Upon Request (888) 838-3022 johnhardy.com

SEA HERE John Hardy’s 18-karat yellow gold accented Cinta ring takes its swirling circular shape from the natural shell. The white opal center is surrounded by brown diamonds and more than five carats of pavé set orange spessartite stones. Gold encases the finger opening and the ring's interior providing both comfort and beauty. LOVE CONQUERS The Cinta collection of one of a kind pieces was originally created for John Hardy’s wife, Cynthia. The collection, not limited to rings, blossomed after her custom piece was

admired and coveted by friends and clients alike. Aptly named, Cinta is the Balinese word for love. Each piece is unique, and made from exotic stones and shells found in locales like Bali, Madagascar, Brazil and Pakistan. ONLY LOCALS NEED APPLY John Hardy discovered the art of Balinese jewelry making during a trip to Bali in the 1970s. Employing local artisans and craftsman, the brand still crafts each piece by hand with ultimate beauty in mind.

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CARTIER $116,000 (800) 227-8437 cartier.us

MOVING TO THE BEAT Designed with movement in mind, this 18-karat rosegold bead and diamond necklace is part of Cartier’s new Paris Nouvelle Vague collection. From a collection inspired by its home, the necklace's beads move as the wearer does—and they sparkle like the City of Lights. NEW CLASSICS Cartier was inspired by the city’s historical architecture andnatural beauty. Some pieces in the collection are reminiscent of the Pont des Arts or the flow of the Seine; others are fashioned after the city’s arches and

domes, complete with Cartier red interiors. EMBODYING A CITY This necklace is just one example of the new Paris Nouvelle Vague Collection. Each piece was crafted to invoke the varying aspects of the city—from its fashion industry to its food. The collection is divided into three different subcategories: Exquisite Delights, a Winding City Stroll and Paris at Night. The rings, pendants and braceletsare all constructed with exquisite gemstones and precious metals.

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WOW DESIGN STUDIO $300,000 +81 03 5459 1100 w0w.co.jp

WOW FACTOR From Tokyo-based WOW design studio and world-renowned designer Marc Newson comes the timeless Aikuchi sword. Authentically hand-crafted from the finest materials, this sword exemplifies rich Japanese culture. Its sleek lines and powerful narrative trade military function for contemporary aesthetic appeal. SWORDS FOR A CAUSE These limited edition Aikuchi swords are made by local swordsmiths in Tohuku, a town devastated by the 2011 earthquake. In creating the new sword, the studio and de-

signer intend to empower traditional Japanese craftsmanship, allowing the arts to continue to flourish in the region. THEN AND NOW The Katana, a traditional Japanese sword used by samurai, evolved over time into the Aikuchi, which developed as a result of peacetime. Eventually, it became symbolic of social status and virtue in Japanese culture. Now, the piece is intended not as a weapon but as fine art to be admired and passed down through generations.

WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: Captain Poindexter takes off

Ball Watch Takes to the Skies...Again By Keith W. Strandberg

The New Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Advances Ball Watchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Aviation Complications. 72

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F E A T U R E : B A L L WA T C H T A K E S T O T H E S K I E S

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LEFT TO RIGHT: A Ball antique railway watch The Ball Fireman Skylab Ionosphere

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chance to partner up with them as this to be, a must when flying. These were the watches used by railroad engineers, most brand has such incredible history. “After meeting with the new owners, often Ball. At the time, pocket watches were made up of one American, one Canadian, fastened to the pilot’s thigh using leather a Swiss and a Central American, I realized straps. this was for me,” he continues. “I then The brand, noticing that pilots were sought out the great-great-grandson of the using their railroad watches while flying, founder, who owned Ball until about 2000, started to develop watches specifically for to get his blessing. I convinced him that we pilots. “Ball worked with World War I teams would carry on his family’s work of great on the front lines to help time and control watches with high visibility—a tenet that military operations, and also worked with was important then (in the dark cabins of airlines in the 1930s to develop the first railroads) and today with emergency and commercial airline watches,” Hess explains. health workers, pilots, police and such.” “Additionally, we are one of the few watches For Hess, one of the key advantages Ball taken to the International Space Station, has is the high legibility, due to the design with NASA certification to prove it.” and the use of micro-gas tubes, which are Today, Ball has a complete collection of self-powered and 100 times more effective aviation timepieces and has worked with than conventional luminous paint. These three astronauts as ambassadors: Alan Pointubes make sure that the watches are read- dexter, Brian Binney and Owen Garriott. Captain Poindexter died in a jet-ski acable in complete darkness, and are lit up for at least 25 years. Unlike normal Super- cident in 2012, and Ball honored the astroLuminova or other luminous paints, the naut with a limited edition timepiece, the tritium tubes do not have to be charged, Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Capand don’t fade over time. tain Poindexter. The company contributes Add into this built-in ruggedness and an a significant portion of the sale of each these emphasis on precision (most of Ball’s watches toward the Samuel Pfeiffer Poindwatches are COSC-certified), and Ball offers exter Special Needs Trust to assist in the care of Poindexter’s autistic son. an irresistible package. AVIATION: TRIED AND TRUE TODAY Ball has an early link to aviation. Many pilots used the most precise timepieces on the market when they took to the air, as accurate timekeeping was, and continues

ABOVE: Pilot Brian Binnie, a member of the Ball Explorers Club OPPOSITE, TOP TO BOTTOM: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Captain Poindexter Owen Garriott walking in space

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The Ball Watch company has a tradition of precision timekeeping and legibility that dates back to 1891, when the company was founded by Webb C. Ball to provide quality pocket watches to the railroads in the United States. After a serious train collision—allegedly caused by a pocket watch malfunction—railroad officials commissioned Ball to be the general time inspector and charged him with establishing the first timepiece standards and inspection systems. Ball developed timepieces that met these strict standards and his company became the main supplier to the US Railroads. In fact, Ball was considered one of the finest pocket watches in the world. As the company grew, Ball expanded its range to meet the needs of other areas that demanded strict precision, including aviation. Ball is one of the few companies that has produced watches without interruption since it was founded—a legitimate history of excellence that first attracted Jeffrey Hess to distribute the brand in North America—something that continues to be his focus today. At the time, Hess was a renowned vintage watch expert, as well as a jewelry retailer, and he had just co-authored a book on vintage Rolexes. “I was a watch researcher and collector, and wrote and researched for several books about watches,” recalls Hess. “After publication of the Rolex book, I was approached by several brands to distribute them in North America. None appealed to me. When Ball changed hands from the Ball family to the new owners, I jumped at the

F E A T U R E : B A L L WA T C H T A K E S T O T H E S K I E S

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“Ball is the only brand left from the American watch heyday that is still in operation and still American-owned. ... I love the K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

luminosity. Many independent tests have confirmed our lume is the best in the business. I love my watch collection, but I always come back to my Ball watches.”

—Jeffrey Hess

CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT: The Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT The Engineer II Green Berets The Engineer II Volcano The Engineer Master II Aviator The Trainmaster Moon Phase

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ENGINEER HYDROCARBON AEROGMT

OTHER KEY PIECES This year, Ball introduced a number of interesting timepieces, all in keeping with Ball’s tradition of legibility, ruggedness and precision.

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The newest aviation timepiece is this month’s cover watch, the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT. Considered the ultimate aviation watch by Ball, the AeroGMT has the world’s brightest bezel. For years, Ball has been experimenting with embedding gas tubes in the bezel and the company has finally perfected it, introducing this new bezel for the first time in the AeroGMT. Designed for flight crews and air traffic professionals, the AeroGMT is extremely visible. It has a total of 43 micro-gas tubes, on the hour, minute and second time-zone hands, on the dial and in the bezel. It is also shock-resistant to 7,500Gs, antimagnetic to 4,800A/m and water-resistant to 300 meters. The stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter, and features an antireflective sapphire crystal and Ball’s patented crown protection system. The automatic movement powering the AeroGMT is certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) for precision.

Engineer II Green Beret This ruggedly handsome timepiece is brand new for 2015, honoring the excellence of the famous Green Berets. The Green Beret Engineer II is a modern combat watch, with its COSCcertified automatic movement housed in a 43 mm titanium carbide case. Engineer II Volcano Another new Engineer II timepiece, the Volcano introduces mumetal to watchmaking, combining it with carbon in the 45 mm case. Mumetal is an alloy of nickel, iron, copper and molybdenum with very high magnetic permeability, helping the watch provide excellent antimagnetic protection.

The moon phase complication has undergone a renaissance of sorts, with more watches featuring this elegant complication. In 2015, Ball introduced the Trainmaster Moon Phase, which displays the moon—with a twist. Under the moon phase disk, Ball has placed an array of gas tubes to make sure the moon phase can be read in any light conditions, even when there is no moon to be seen. Engineer Master II Aviator Not new for 2015, the Engineer Master II Aviator is a staple in the Ball Watch line. At 44 mm, it makes a strong statement on the wrist. Powered by an automatic GMT movement, it is very legible, shock-resistant and antimagnetic.

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Trainmaster Moon Phase

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Prepare for Takeoff Photography by Jens Mortensen Styled by Hyla Bauer

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Patek Phiippe Ref. 5524G watch in 18-karat white gold, (212) 218-1240 patek.com

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Breitling Montbrilliant watch in 18-karat rose gold, (203) 762-1180, breitling.com

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Tutima Grand Flieger Classic Chronograph in stainless steel, TUTIMA-1927, tutima.com

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Zodiac Aviator watch in stainless steel, (800) 699-0569, zodiacwatches.com

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Ralph Lauren RL67 Chronometer in black aged steel, (877) 639-7934, ralphlaurenwatches.com

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Van Cleef Bremont & Arpels Wright Alhambra Fiberwatch watchinin18K stainless gold and steel, diamonds(212) (212)321-0012, 223-2693, bremont.com vancleefarpels.com

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Vacheron BreguetConstantin AĂŠronovale1972 Flyback Prestige Chronograph watch inin18K stainless gold (877) steel, 701-1755, (866) 458-7488, vacheron-constantin.com breguet.com

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Ralph Perrelet Lauren Stirrup Turbine Petite-Link Pilot watchsteel in stainless watch withsteel, diamonds (954) (888) 575-7980, 475-7674,perrelet.com ralphlauren.com

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de Grisogono Bell & Ross BR-01 Allegra 10th watch Anniversary in 18K gold watch, (212) (786) 439-4220, 454-9730, degrisogono.com bellross.com

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: Mark Kelley charting his travels and wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic 1958 watch; Photography throughout by Mark Kelley.

Alaskan Adventure By Hyla Bauer

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AMERICAN BEAUTY Jaeger-LeCoultre has been providing support to UNESCO since 2008 to protect the 47 marine sites around the world that the organization has designated as World Heritage locations. This year, the grande maison focused on Glacier Bay National Park, renewing its commitment to preserving the earth’s outstanding and essential natural havens for plant and wildlife. This year marks the first that a site in North America has been spotlighted by the brand. Glacier National Park occupies 3.3 million acres of mountains, coastlines, fjords and glaciers, providing excellent and essential habitats for sea and land animals. Bears, moose and sea lions occupy this picturesque corner of the world. Glacier National Park’s seas offer vital feeding grounds for humpback whales during their annual migration, and before the preservation efforts began, dozens of the majestic mammals were being severely injured or killed by the ubiquitous cruise ships that travel the seas during the summer months. Since this program began, all boats entering the area are required to have a marine biologist aboard, who can detect the presence of a whale using sonar binoculars. The ship’s captain is then able to navigate away from the animal, avoiding harmful contact.

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Award-winning photographer Mark Kelley has been photographing and experiencing the wilds of his native state of Alaska for more than 20 years. An avid outdoorsman and preservationist, he has published more than a dozen books and takes an active role in the preserving of the natural habitat of the state’s creatures, great and small. For these reasons, Kelley was thrilled to learn that Jaeger-LeCoultre had provided essential funding to UNESCO to preserve Glacier Bay National Park—virtually doubling the marine area protected under the World Heritage Convention.

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BOTTOM: a majestic glacier meets the shoreline TOP:Fanny Duovere inspects glacial ice

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Sea lions at rest

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“The scientific research conducted [at Glacier National Park] is of the utmost importance,” says Scott Gende, the senior scientific advisor of Glacier Bay. “The zone was declared an American national monument in 1925 due to the unique possibility it affords of studying the succession of glacial periods. That is why the project leaders at Glacier Bay encourage both general research such as glaciology and the evolution of the landscape, as well as more applied studies focused on the consequences of incursions.” CHARITY BEGINS AT HOME

PICTURE PERFECT Kelley has experienced the natural beauty in Glacier National Park for more than three decades. The park has served for years as a research lab for scientists, who study its unique and complex ecosystems. This has provided researchers with valuable data that can be applied to other ecosystems. Dr. Fanny Duovere serves as the marine program coordinator at the World Heritage Center in Paris. She is dedicated to ensuring that UNESCO’s 47 World Heritage marine areas are protected for the future. “Over the course of our cooperation, we have not only doubled the marine area protected under the World Heritage Convention but secured the first 35-year conservation plan for Australia’s iconic Great Barrier Reef,” Duovere says. She develops preservation advisory plans for countries where these sites are located, and generous support, like Jaeger-LeCoultre’s, aids in carrying out the plans. “We look forward to delivering many more conservation successes as the partnership is now gaining unprecedented momentum,” she says.

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The current partnership is certainly not the first effort by Jaeger-LeCoultre to preserve and protect its natural surroundings. Since its founding in 1833 in the Vallee de Joux, the company has been committed to preserving the local region, and built one of the first waste water plants to serve the area. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s passion for preservation of the seas began in the 1950s with its first diving watch, the Memovox Deep Sea, which aided the underwater safety of both deep-sea divers by allowing them to determine their underwater time and thus the available levels of oxygen remaining. The International Geophysic Year of 1957–1958 also saw Jaeger-LeCoultre introducing another watchmaking innovation: an antimagnetic watch that could be worn during polar exploration. Before this, the earth’s magnetic pull disabled the timekeeping of conventional watches and pocket watches. The Geophysic 1958 was designed and built not only to withstand the magnetic fields at the earth’s poles, but to also be shock and water-resistant—essential qualities for a polar trek.

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A view of the magnificent bay

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Tracking the travels of a humpback whale

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Humpback whales find a safe haven in the park’s waters

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“Over the course of our cooperation [with Jaeger-LeCoultre], we have not only doubled the marine area protected under the World Heritage Convention but secured the first 35-year conservation plan for Australia’s iconic Great Barrier Reef.” — Dr. Fanny Duovere

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: Sailing the high seas off St. Barth

Les Voiles de St. Barth By Hyla Bauer

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Amid the crashing waves of the azure blue waters off the lush island of St. Barthélemy, four classes of elite sailing ships competed tirelessly for the championship of the annual Les Voiles de St. Barth. Teams of skilled sailors, including many veterans of the America’s Cup and Volvo Ocean Race, journey from all over the world to compete. The winner in the Maxi Yacht class is presented with a Richard Mille RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph, the first watch in the collection created for sailing. This automatic watch, conceived and designed for open-sea racing, has a titanium rotating bezel with an integral compass. Richard Mille has a love of high performance, whether in one of his exceptional timepieces or sports. His passion is brought to life in his support of some of the world’s top athletes, and extends to sailboat racing. “Very early into the development of the brand I wanted to be involved in the nautical world so I conceived several watches dedicated to sailing and diving,” he says. “Being part of Les Voiles de St. Barth was the next step. I was convinced of the potential of a regatta taking place in such an incredible setting as the Caribbean Sea. The high-end nature of the race is in perfect accordance with my philosophy, and it was with great pleasure that I watched its success increase yearly and its popularity grow among the sailing community. For the sixth edition we had an impressive fleet of 70 boats, including some of the fastest on the planet, and a new speed record was even set.” This year, more than 1,000 yachtsmen and women from 20 different nations flocked to the idyllic island to compete in the rigorous four-day challenge, with a different course set for each day, in rapidly changing wind and sea conditions. Several classes of boats participate in the competition, including multihulls, Maxi-yachts, TP52s, Mini Maxis, racing spinnakers, racing nonspinnakers and Melges 24. “Even as a child I was fascinated by sailing, and this passion has never left me,” Mille says. “I admire all the developments needed to design a sailboat, and that constant search for aerodynamic performance and light yet resistant materials,” he continues. “There is a real parallel between watchmaking and sailing. Many hours of research and development are needed to design a Mille watch, and just like in the shipyard, our watches are created by human hands.”

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Action shots from Les Voiles de St. Barth (photos, top to bottom: Michael Gramm, Luc Manago)

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(photo: Michael Gramm)

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RM 60-01 Les Voiles de St. Barth

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Cutting through the crystal-clear waters (photo: Christophe Jouany)

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Richard Mille on St. Barth (photo: Luc Manago)

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In addition to his leading support as the principal partner for the event, Mille has also decided to give back to the Caribbean community, specifically Jamaica, through a partnership with the YB Afraid Foundation. This nonprofit provides aid for children in lower-income households. “The YB Afraid Foundation is very dear to me,” he explains. “Every time we can make a contribution we do so, but it isn’t much compared to the tremendous work accomplished by the foundation for these children.” He adds that the partnership involved sailing, too. “We decided to bring the children to St. Barth, the idea was to familiarize them with the ocean, as unfortunately they do not have many occasions to go to the coast in Jamaica. The main objective was to teach them how to swim, and it was amazing to see that after only three hours of pool lessons they were already able to go in the ocean. So we introduced them to some nautical activities, and they also got involved in the competition. It was truly a pleasure to see them opening themselves to new horizons.” Richard Mille presented the Voiles de St. Barth trophy to George David, owner of the Maxi Yacht Rambler 88, who celebrated his fourth win. The children of the YB Afraid Foundation, which was created by Yohan Blake, a Jamaican sprinter and brand partner of Richard Mille, presented the winner with his prize: a Richard Mille RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph. ybafraid.com richardmille.com

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The TAG Heuer Formula 1 McLaren Special Edition watch

Perfect Timing

By Keith W. Strandberg 104

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Aside from the hands displaying the hours and minutes, there are often a number of other things happening on a watch dial. Here’s a handy guide to the functions you might see.

CHRONOGRAPH SUBDIALS The chronograph is a timepiece that has an elapsed timer built in, allowing the user to time an individual event. Chronographs are one of the most popular complications, and one of the most useful to daily life. The complication dates back to Louis Moinet in 1815 (completed in 1816), and the chronograph function itself was patented in 1862. There are many different kinds of chronographs on the market (monopusher, column wheel, flyback, split-second), but no matter the type, it will always display the elapsed time in seconds, minutes and hours. In most watches, the elapsed time is displayed in subdials: small circles on the watch dial that show the seconds, minutes or hours elapsed. The typical chronograph has three of these “eyes,” though others have two and some have only one. There are some linear chronographs on the market, and others that use the existing hands to display the seconds, minutes and hours, but the majority of chronographs use subdials. With subdials, the result is a sporty look that is very popular. In fact, many people buy a chronograph for the look and never learn to operate it, which is a real shame because it’s a lot of fun to time your drive to work, your run at lunch or cooking your pasta for dinner.

As chronographs are already timing devices, it makes sense to include scales that help to measure speed (over land, of sound). TACHYMETER The tachymeter scale is a handy one to measure land speed over a fixed distance. All you have to do is start your chronograph at a mile or kilometer mark, then stop it at the next mark, and you’ll know how fast you were going. I use the tachymeter scale when my sons are driving and I can’t see the speedometer, but I want to know how fast they are going. I just look out the window, start my chronograph at the first mile marker and stop it at the next one. Voilà! My watch displays our speed over that distance. (Then I tell my son to slow down.) Magically, the tachymeter scale works over miles or kilometers without any conversion. In fact, it works over any fixed distance, as long as you know where the unit begins and ends.

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SCALES

F E AT U R E : PE R F E C T T I M I NG

THIS PAGE: The Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph OPPOSITE: The Louis Moinet Geographic Rain Forest watch

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TELEMETER The telemeter scale measures sound over distance. Developed to aid in determining how far cannons were away from a fixed position during World War I, it is quite handy today for seeing how far away a storm is. When you can see the lightning, start your chronograph. When you hear the thunder, stop it. However many seconds elapsed is how many miles or kilometers the storm is away. Unlike the tachymeter scale, the telemeter scale has to be calibrated for miles or kilometers.

There are a number of other scales and gauges that can be on a watch dial to measure or record. There is the pulsometer scale, which tells you how fast your heart is beating; the depth gauge, which records how far underwater you went; the altimeter scale, which shows how high above sea level you are; the barometric scale, which shows atmospheric changes; and temperature gauges. Astronomical watches often have a sidereal scale on the dial, which shows the difference between our standard 24 hour day and the true time it takes the sun to circumvent the earth: 23 hours, 56 minutes and four seconds. A slide rule bezel allows the user to do standard calculations. Often, pilot watches will have slide rule bezels to help them calculate fuel consumption, air speed and distance calculations. Slide rule bezels can also help convert metric to standard measurements (e.g., kilometers to miles), convert currency, convert temperature degrees and more. Sometimes, chronographs will have decimal scales on them, which divide a minute into 100 equal portions. This scale is particularly helpful to scientists and engineers. A watch can be a font of information if the one you are wearing knows how to measure, use and display it. There is definitely more than meets the eye.

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OTHER SCALES AND GAUGES

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: Carving the trigger for the Graham Oversize Superlight Carbon

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Carbon Fiber By Keith W. Strandberg

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There are a many materials used in the making of watch cases, dials and bezels, but one of the most intriguing and technically superior substances is carbon fiber. Visually mesmerizing, it is also light, strong and durable. This fascinating material made its first appearance on timepieces on dials. Because the material comes in sheets, applying it was simple. “It’s a composite material,” explains Eric Loth, the president of Graham—a brand that started using carbon fiber very early, in 2002. “The value is in the lightness, the beauty and the real technical shine. It makes the watch very different.” Jean-Paul Suchel, the technical and production director for Bell & Ross, loves its mechanical characteristics: “It is about five times lighter than steel, and it’s resistant and enduring,” he says. “It is high-tech, and was developed for applications where resis-

tance and lightness are important, specifically for the aeronautic and aerospace industries. Then it was used for high performance mechanical sports such as Formula One racing.” Suchel explains that there are many different ways to use carbon fiber, by mixing it with other materials to get specific qualities. “What is commonly called carbon fiber is actually made of a resin reinforced with carbon fibers. In the case of Bell & Ross, we use a patented specific process named Forged Carbon,” he explains. “The carbon fibers are first pre-impregnated with the resin, then compressed into a mold. This compression process gives a much more compact structure with no porosity and better mechanical characteristics. Forged Carbon is much more difficult to master than the common carbon fiber processes.” The difficulty in working with carbon fiber

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depends on how you want to use it. On a dial, it’s pretty straightforward. “With the Superlight, we have four different processes, which means different tooling, machining, polishing and suppliers,” Loth says. “We also developed our use of carbon further, with another supplier that is using nanotube carbon, but it is very difficult to shape—it is used for aircraft brakes—so we need very strong tooling to shape it.” Carbon fiber is here to stay, because customers love the material—as do the manufactures. “I have a selection of different materials that I use when developing a watch,” Loth says. “Carbon fiber increases the cost of the watch, so it all has to fit in the budget. The combination of carbon, steel and ceramic can be really beautiful.” graham1695.com bellross.com

LEFT TO RIGHT: The Graham Chronofighter Oversize Carbon; the Bell & Ross BR01-92 Carbon Fiber Limited Edition; OPPOSITE: The making of carbon fiber at Graham

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“It is about five times lighter than steel, and it’s resistant and enduring. ... [It] was developed for applications where resistance and lightness are important, specifically for the aeronautic and aerospace industries.” —Jean-Paul Suchel

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Porsche Design Titanium Chronograph first created in 1980

Tough Titanium By Keith W. Strandberg

A Lightweight Metal That Rivals the Heavyweights. 112

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BELOW, LEFT TO RIGHT: The Panerai Radiomir Mare Nostrum in titanuim The Porsche Design Chronotimer Series 1 OPPOSITE: A back view of the Porsche Design Chronotimer Series 1

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was extremely skin-friendly.” Titanium’s chemical symbol is Ti (number 22 on the Periodic Table). It was first discovered in 1791, in Cornwall, Great Britain, where it was named after the Titans of ancient Greece. Titanium is often combined with other metals (like iron, aluminum and more), resulting in strong but light alloys. In fact, titanium has the highest strength-to-density ratio of any metallic element. Titanium is very well-suited for use in timepieces, because it is extremely non-allergic (the reason why it has been widely used in medical products like implants) and corrosion-resistant in the face of elements like sweat and salt water. Last but not least, watch aficionados appreciate the coloring and distinct look of titanium timepieces. Today, all Porsche Design timepieces are made of titanium, and the company has a unique expertise in the production of this incredible material. “The handling of titanium in the manufacturing process is extremely complex because of the ridged character of the material,” Heiler points out. “It’s much more

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difficult to machine and to polish than steel. As a result, the manufacturing tools wear out much more quickly. The grade of titanium that we select for a certain watch model or even a particular component of that timepiece depends on its individual function and the manufacturing process that will be applied to it—for example, polishing, embossing or milling. Another unique characteristic of titanium is the way that it transforms once being processed. The glass-bead blasting process that we use on many of our titanium timepieces creates a beautiful coloring and a smooth surface feel that is very distinct from steel.” Titanium is here to stay in the watch industry, thanks to the unique benefits of the material and its unique coloration. Many top brands, including Panerai, Vacheron Constantin and Breguet employ this tough alloy in watches with varying styles and complications. The difficulty of working with titanium, its obvious benefits for the wearer and its distinctive appearance have all boosted the demand for titanium watches, and will for years to come.

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When Watch Journal decided to explore titanium and its utility in watches, we knew that we had to talk with Porsche Design. The company was the first to make an all-titanium watch back in 1980—and the directive to use titanium came from Professor F.A. Porsche himself. “Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, a true visionary and founder of Porsche Design, was impressed by this robust material used in motorsports and in the aerospace industry,” explains Roland Heiler, managing director of the Porsche Design Studio. “It inspired him to create the first watch entirely made of titanium, the 1980 Titanium Chronograph. His goal was to develop the best possible timepiece equipped with a stopwatch function. Until then, mechanical chronographs had been rather heavy and cumbersome due to their complex movements. The new material enabled the designer to create a light and compact chronograph that was as durable and precise as its predecessor made of stainless steel. Its low weight made it more comfortable to wear and, thanks to the favorable characteristics of titanium, it

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The Tudor North Flag watch in stainless steel

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Tudor

Approaching a Century of Fine Watchmaking. 117

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K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

L E G A C Y: T U D O R

BELOW: The Tudor Heritage Black Bay

Since coming back to the US market two years ago, Tudor has been taking the watch industry by storm. This year, the brand introduced new in-house movementsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;something itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never had. Though it seems new, Tudor has been around since 1946, but its actual history goes back even further. tudorwatch.com 118

WA T C H J O U R N A L

1926

L E G A C Y: T U D O R

The house of Veuve de Philippe Hüther, a watch dealer and maker in Geneva, registers the name The Tudor for Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex.

1932

The first Tudor watches appear in Australia. Some of them have the Rolex name on the dial as well.

1936

The house of Veuve de Philippe Hüther transfers the name Tudor back to Wilsdorf. This year, the iconic Tudor rose first appears on dials.

1952

The Tudor Oyster Prince is born. This rugged watch is accompanied by an advertising campaign that shows workers wearing the watch in extreme conditions, and the Oyster case links Tudor with Rolex. “I have decided that the Tudor Prince deserves to share with Rolex two advantages I would allow no other watch to use—the famous and unique waterproof Oyster case and the original self-winding perpetual rotor mechanism,” Wilsdorf said then. “All Tudor Oyster Princes will have these two exceptional features, previously exclusive to Rolex. This indicates, I think, the measure of our faith in the new watch. I am proud to give my personal endorsement.”

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

1946

Montres Tudor SA, the Tudor Watch Company, is founded. “For some years now, I have been considering the idea of making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous,” Wilsdorf said at the time. “I decided to form a separate company, with the object of making and marketing this new watch. It is called the Tudor Watch Company.”

1952

Hans Wilsdorf sends 26 of his newly launched Tudor Oyster Prince watches to Greenland as part of the British North Greenland Expedition. The watches are utilized for two years in Greenland, performing with accuracy in the most extreme conditions on earth.

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1953

1976

Tudor embraces robustness with a new new ad campaign that emphasizes the endurance tests the watch passed: The watch was worn by a coal miner during 252 hours of excavation by hand, subjected to the vibrations of a pneumatic drill for 30 hours, worn by a stone-cutter for three months, worn for a month while riveting metal girders in building construction, worn by a motorcycle racer over a distance of 1,000 miles and more.

Tudor introduces the Tudor Prince Oysterdate Big Block.

1995

L E G A C Y: T U D O R

The Tudor Prince Oysterdate is reimagined and refined.

2011

A partnership with Ducati is formed. Both founded in 1926, the brands share a passion for excellence, design and performance. The Tudor FastRider range is inspired by and references Ducati motorcycles in design details.

2012

Introduction of the phenomenally successful Tudor Heritage Black Bay. The Black Bay comes with a striking burgundy or blue rotating bezel.

1954

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Tudor introduces its first diving watch, the Oyster Prince Submariner. Further iterations of this watch are delivered to the French navy from the end of the ’50s all the way to the mid ’80s.

1957

2015

1957: Tudor introduces the Advisor, the brand’s first alarm watch.

1969

The first in-house Tudor movements are unveiled, the MT5621 and MT5612. Featured in the new North Flag and Pelagos models, these new movements will become the basis for many different models in the future.

The new Tudor logo drops the rose and re-adopts the shield.

Tudor has a long history and the brand is very well positioned for the future, offering quality, cutting-edge design and a heritage of durability—all at a very reasonable price. tudorwatch.com

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E Q UAT I O N O F T I M E

HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

WATCH JOURNAL

Alarm Automatic Movement Chronograph Rattrapante Chronograph Dual Time Equation of Time Flyback Chronograph GMT Annual Calendar Perpetual Calendar Simple Calendar Minute Repeater Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon Moon Phase Power Reserve Grand Complication Jumping Hour World Time Escapement Balance Wheel Gear Train Tachymeter Telemeter Pulsometer Big Date Retrograde Display Rotor Unidirectional Bezel 122

WATCH JOURNAL

HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

Equation of Time \i-ˈkwā-zhən also -shən \ \əv \ \ˈtīm\

patek.com (212) 218-1240

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E Q UAT I O N O F T I M E

The Equation of time complication indicates each day’s deviation in length from the mean solar time, commonly accepted as 24 hours and zero seconds. In the Patek Philippe Reference 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon, this complication is one of 12 total complications. The watch also contains a tourbillon, a minute repeater with two cathedral gongs, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date and a moon-phase display. The read dial features astronomical function: It shows the Northern sky, sidereal time, and the angular progression and phases of the moon.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

THE LIST Top Watch Retailers Across the Country

THE LIST

ARIZONA E.D. MARSHALL JEWELERS 10261 N. Scottsdale Road Scottsdale, AZ 85253 (480) 922-1968 Brands: Blancpain, Bremont, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet, Maurice Lacroix, Piaget. TOURNEAU 7014 E. Camelback Road, #1055 Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (480) 429-2304 Brands: Bell & Ross, Bremont, Tudor.

CALIFORNIA BEN BRIDGE 1177 Glendale Galleria Glendale, CA 91210 (818) 637-2511 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.

T OP R ETA I L E R S

7007 Friars Road #543 San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 291-7572 BRYANT & SONS 812 State Street Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 966-9187 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe C.J. CHARLES 1135 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 454-5390 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre CHATEL & CO JEWELERS Lincoln Street between Ocean & 7th Avenue Carmel, CA 93921 (888) 524-2835 Brands: Bell & Ross, Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,

Richard Mille, Zenith. DAVID ORGELL 262 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 273-6660 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Maurice Lacroix, Perrelet, Ulysse Nardin. FELDMAR WATCH CO. 9000 W. Pico Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90035 (310) 274-8016 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Hermès, Omega. GEARY'S 360 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 887-4250 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex. MILANO BIJOU 928 S. Western Avenue, #211 Los Angeles, CA 90006 (213) 382-1700 Brands: Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-Le Coultre, Franck Muller, IWC POLACHECK’S JEWELERS 4719 Commons Way, #E Calabasas, CA 91302 (818) 225-0600 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Tudor. SHREVE & CO. 329 Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto, CA 94304 (650) 327-2211 Brands: Corum, IWC, Omega, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex.

TOPPER FINE JEWELERS 1315 Burlingame Avenue Burlingame, CA 94010 (650) 347-2221 Brands: Ball, Ernst Benz, Glashütte Original, Longines, Omega, Zenith. TOURNEAU 3333 S. Bristol Street, #2603 Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 966-1204 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Tudor. 7007 Friars Road, #358A San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 296-8463 Brands: Cartier, Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Montblanc, Panerai. 845 Market Street, #129 San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 974-1846 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, TAG Heuer, Tudor Century City Shopping Center. 10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, #103 Los Angeles, CA 90067 (310) 553-8463 Brand: Panerai. Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, #103 Los Angeles, CA 90067 (310) 553-8463 Brands: IWC, Baume & Mercier. 4505 La Jolla Village Drive, #C-19 San Diego, CA 92122 (858) 453-9996 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier,

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Panerai, Patek Philippe,. 395 Santa Monica Place, #132 Santa Monica, CA 90401 (310) 458-4550 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. TRADITIONAL JEWELERS 817 Newport Center Drive Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 721-9010 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Rolex. 200 Post Street San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 421-2600 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin. WESTIME 254 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 271-0000 8569 Sunset Boulevard Beverly Hills, CA 90069 (310) 289-0808 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Dior, Franck Muller, Hermès, Ulysse Nardin. 1227 Prospect Street La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 459-2222 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Louis Moinet, Zenith. 3832 Cross Creek Road Malibu, CA 90265 (310) 456-2555 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Louis Moinet, Zenith.

COLORADO HYDE PARK 3000 E. 1st Avenue, #243 Denver, CO 80206 (303) 333-4446 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre. OSTER JEWELERS 251 Steele Street, Cherry Creek North Denver, CO 80206 (303) 572-1111 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Dior, Ulysse Nardin. BETTERIDGE JEWELERS 141 E. Meadow Drive Vail, CO 81657 (970) 790-6560 Brands: Bell & Ross, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor.

CONNECTICUT BETTERIDGE JEWELERS 117 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 869-0124 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren. LUX BOND & GREEN 140 Glastonbury Boulevard Glastonbury, CT 06033 (860) 659-8510 1 Mohegan Sun Boulevard Uncasville, CT 06382 (860) 862-9900 Brands: Breitling, Cellini, Montblanc, Rolex, TAG Heuer. 46 La Salle Road West Hartford, CT 06880 (860) 521-3015 136 Main Street

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Westport, CT 06107 (203) 227-1300 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor. 169 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 629-0900 Brands: Raymond Weil, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Victorinox Swiss Army.

SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW 125 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Bremont, Nomos, Piaget, TAG Heuer.

FLORIDA ALTIER JEWELERS 701 S. Federal Highway Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 395-3462 Brands: Cartier, Linde Werdelin, Patek Philippe.

MAYOR'S JEWELERS 6000 Glades Road, #1119 Boca Raton, FL 33431 (561) 368-602 342 San Lorenzo Avenue, #1000 Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 446-1233 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Dior, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer. 7457 N. Kendall Drive Miami, FL 33156 (305) 667-7517 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor. 4200 Conroy Road, #180 Orlando, FL 33431 (407) 363-5740 Brands: Frédérique Constant, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor.

HAMILTON JEWELERS 215 Worth Avenue Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 659-6788 Brands: Breguet, Bulgari, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren

8001 S. Orange Blossom Trail, #484 Orlando, FL 32809 (407) 859-3116 Brands: Breitling, Bulgari, Cartier, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor.

The Gardens Mall, 3101 PGA Boulevard Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 775-3600 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe.

140 University Town Center Drive Sarasota, FL 34243 (941) 893-1124 Brands: Breitling, Rolex, TAG Heuer. 2223 N. West Shore Boulevard, #165 Tampa, FL 33607

(239) 592-7707 Brands: Breitling, Bugari, Harry Winston, IWC, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin.

TOURNEAU 5494 Tamiami Trail North Naples, FL 34108 (239) 591-1342 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Frédérique Constant, Longines, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tourneau.

GEORGIA

320 San Lorenzo Avenue, #1225 Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 448-6878 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Cartier, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai. 19575 Biscayne Boulevard, #567 Aventura, FL 33180 (305) 792-2298 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Tudor. 9700 Collins Avenue, #210 Bal Harbour, FL 33154 (305) 866-4312 Brands: Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor. 175 Worth Avenue Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 832-8812 Brands: Breitling, Cartier, Devon, Longines, Patek Philippe, Rolex. 3111 PGA Boulevard Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 694-6028 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Omega, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Victorinox Swiss Army. WESTON JEWELERS 1728 Main Street Weston, FL 33326 (954) 389-7990 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Chopard, Dior, Hublot, Montblanc. YAMRON 5555 Tamiami Trail North, Suite 11 Naples, FL 34108

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TOURNEAU 3393 Peachtree Road NE, #3082 Atlanta, GA 30326 (404) 760-1883 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Chopard, IWC, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin.

HAWAII BEN BRIDGE JEWELER 1450 Ala Moana Boulevard, #2212B Honolulu, HI 96814 (808) 955-0177 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.

(312) 266-7600 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer. TRABERT & HOEFFER 111 E. Oak Street Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 787-1654 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Franck Muller, JaegerLeCoultre, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin.

KANSAS TIVOL 4721 W. 119th Street Overland Park, KS 66209 (913) 345-0200 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, David Yurman, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Rolex.

MARYLAND TOURNEAU 2301 Kalakaua Avenue, #101 Honolulu, HI 96815 (808) 922-4111 Brands: Blancpain, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin.

LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD 7101 Democracy Boulevard, #2325 Bethesda, MD 20817 (800) 719-1190 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe.

ILLINOIS C. D. PEACOCK Northbrook Court Northbrook, IL 60062 (847) 564-8030 Oakbrook Center Oakbrook, IL 60523 (630) 571-5355 Woodfield Mall Schaumburg, IL 60173 (847) 619-6560 Old Orchard Center Skokie, IL 60077 (847) 679-1837 Brands: Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer. TOURNEAU 835 N. Michigan Avenue, 3rd Floor Chicago, IL 60611

RADCLIFFE JEWELERS 1848 Reisterstown Road Pikesville, MD 21208 (410) 484-2900 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin. 825 Dulaney Valley Road, #196 Baltimore, MD 21204 (410) 321-6590 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Hermès, IWC, TAG Heuer, Tudor.

MASSACHUSETTS LUX BOND & GREEN 416 Boylston Street Boston, MA 02116 (617) 266-4747 Brands: Cellini, Patek

T OP R ETA I L E R S

KING JEWELERS 18265 Biscayne Boulevard Aventura, FL 33160 (305) 935-4900 Brands: Bell & Ross, Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis.

LEVINSON & CO. INC. 888 E. Las Olas Boulevard Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301 (954) 462-8880 Brands: Bulgari, Franck Muller, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis.

(813) 354-8080 Brands: Breitling, Bvlgari, Cartier, Frédérique Constant, IWC, Panerai, Tudor.

THE LIST

MANFREDI JEWELS 121 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 622-1414 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Breguet, F.P.Journe, Franck Muller, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin.

LES BIJOUX 306 Plaza Real Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 361-2311 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor.

THE LIST

60 Central Street Wellesley, MA 02482 (781) 235-9119 Brands: Raymond Weil, Rolex, Victorinox Swiss Army. ROYAL JEWELERS 58 Main Street Andover, MA 01810 (978) 475-3330 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer. SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW 39 Newbury Street Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-9100 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin. 232 Boylston Street Chestnut Hill, MA 02467 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, IWC.

(248) 465-1800 6337 Orchard Lake Road W. Bloomfield, MI 48322 (248) 932-7700 Brands: David Yurman, Omega, Raymond Weil, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer. 2800 W. Big Beaver Road Troy, MI 48084 (248) 649-2000 Brands: Breitling, IWC, Panerai, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer.

MINNESOTA BEN BRIDGE 136 West Market Bloomington, MN 55425 (952) 814-9356 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. WIXON JEWELERS 9955 Lyndale Avenue South Bloomington, MN 55420 (952) 881-8862 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor.

MISSOURI

T OP R ETA I L E R S

TOURNEAU Copley Plaza, 100 Huntington Avenue, #D-13 Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-8463 Burlington Mall, 75 Middlesex Turnpike, #1205 Burlington, MA 01803 (781) 272-8463 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor.

MICHIGAN DARAKJIAN JEWELERS 101 Willits Street Birmingham, MI 48009 (888) 843-6659 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc, Ulysse Nardin. TAPPER'S 27716 Novi Road Novi, MI 48377

CLARKSON JEWELERS 1306-C Clarkson Clayton Center Ellisville, MO 63011 (636) 227-2006 Brands: Carl F. Bucherer, Frédérique Constant, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor. TIVOL 220 Nicols Road Kansas City, MO 64112 (816) 531-5800 Brands: Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor.

NEVADA BELLUSSO AT THE PALAZZO 3325 Las Vegas Boulevard S., #1702 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 650-2988 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne,

Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Vacheron Constantin. BEN BRIDGE 1300 W. Sunset Road, Space 2621 Henderson, NV 89014 (702) 456-8807 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. 3200 S. Las Vegas Boulevard #1490 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0003 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. HOROLOGIO FINE WATCHES 3377 S. Las Vegas Boulevard, #2265 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0016 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breitling, Franck Muller, Omega, Ulysse Nardin. ROMAN TIMES JEWELERS 3500 Las Vegas Boulevard, #D10A Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-8687 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Franck Muller, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin. TOURNEAU TIME DOME 3500 S. Las Vegas Boulevard #F-07 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 732-8463 Brands: Bremont, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin. WYNN LAS VEGAS 3131 S. Las Vegas Boulevard Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 770-3520 Brands: Bovet, Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin.

NEW JERSEY HAMILTON JEWELERS 92 Nassau Street Princeton, NJ 08542 (609) 683-4200 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer. THE TIMEPIECE COLLECTION 58 East Palisade Avenue Englewood, NJ 07631 (201) 894-1825 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux, Harry Winston, Hermès, Omega, TAG Heuer.

NEW YORK CELLINI 509 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 888-0505 The Waldorf Astoria 301 Park Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 751-9824 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, GirardPerregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin. LONDON JEWELERS 2 Main Street East Hampton, NY 11937 (631) 329-3939 Brands: Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor. 47 Main Street South Hampton, NY 11968 (631) 287-4499 Brands: Panerai. 28 School Street Glen Cove, NY 11542 (516) 671-3154 Brands: Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor. 180 Wheatley Plaza Greenvale, NY 11548 (516) 621-8844

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Brands: Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor. 2046 Northern Boulevard Manhasset, NY 10030 (516) 627-7475 Brands: Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor. TOURNEAU 510 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-5830 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch 3 Bryant Park New York, NY 10036' (212) 278-8041 Brands: Cartier, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor. 630 Old Country Road, #1100 Garden City, NY 11530 (516) 873-0209 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor. 125 Westchester Avenue, #2340A White Plains, NY 10601 (914) 397-2301 Brands: Ball, Breitling, Cartier, Dior, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Tudor. 160 Walt Whitman Road, #1055D Huntington Station, NY 11746 (631) 427-2649 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor. TOURNEAU TIMEMACHINE 12 E. 57th Street New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-7300 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

WEMPE 700 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10019 (212) 397-9000 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Chopard, Glashütte Original, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Longines, Montblanc, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin.

WINDSOR JEWELERS 6809-D Phillips Place Court Charlotte, NC 28210 (704) 556-7747 Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin. 526 S. Stratford Road Winston-Salem, NC 27103 (336) 721-1768 Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin.

OHIO MANN, INC. 26300 Cedar Road Beachwood, OH 44122 (216) 831-1119 Brands: Patek Philippe, Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai.

OREGON

SHREVE & CO. 640 Southwest Broadway Portland, OR 97205 (971) 295-5555 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Panerai, Patek Philippe.

1521 Walnut Street Philadelphia, PA 19102 (215) 546-6505 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin. TOURNEAU 160 N. Gulph Road, #1078 King of Prussia, PA 19406 (610) 491-8801 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor.

TENNESSEE KING JEWELERS 4121 Hillsboro Pike Nashville, TN 37215 (615) 724-5464 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaquet Droz, Rolex, TAG Heuer.

TEXAS BACHENDORF'S 8400 Preston Road Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 692-8400 Brands: Chanel, Chopard, IWC, Montblanc, Omega, TAG Heuer. BEN BRIDGE Barton Creek Square Mall, 2901 S. Capitol of TX Highway, #J10A Austin, TX 78746 (512) 329-9066 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. The Domain, 3401 Esperanza Crossing, #106 Austin, TX 78758 (512) 491-8014

8687 N. Central Express, #1456 Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-2277 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. 7040 N. Mesa Street El Paso, TX 79912 (915) 584-4700 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. 303 Memorial City Mall, #708 Houston, TX 77024 (713) 935-9499 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. 1096 Willowbrook Mall Houston, TX 77070 (281) 894-5799 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. 5135 W. Alabama street, #7130 Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-1998 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. EISEMAN JEWELERS 8687 N. Central Express, #514 Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-6100 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin. TOURNEAU 13350 N. Dallas Parkway, #1205 Dallas, TX 75240 (972) 661-1503 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton. 5015 Westheimer Road, #2310 (713) 871-8282 Houston, TX 77056

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Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin. 15900 La Cantera Parkway, #2275 San Antonio, TX 78256 (210) 694-5654 Brands: Cartier, Christian Dior, Frédérique Constant, Maurice Lacroix, Panerai, Tudor. ZADOK JEWELERS 1749 Post Oak Boulevard Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-8950 Brands: Breguet, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin.

VIRGINIA LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD JEWELERS Tysons Galleria, 2001 International Drive McLean, VA 22102 (703) 448-6731 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe. TOURNEAU Pentagon City, Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, 1100 S. Hayes Street, Arlington, VA 22202 (703) 414-8463 Brands: Baume & Mercier, TAG Heuer, Cartier, IWC

WASHINGTON BEN BRIDGE 143 Bellevue Square Bellevue, WA 98004 (425) 454-9927 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. 1432 4th Avenue Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 628-6800 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.

T OP R ETA I L E R S

BEN BRIDGE Washington Square, 9518 Portland, OR 97223 (503) 603-1285 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.

GOVBERG JEWELERS 65 St. James Place Ardmore, PA 19003 (610) 664-1715 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Dior, Panerai, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin.

Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.

THE LIST

NORTH CAROLINA

PENNSYLVANIA

HUMOR

WA T C H J O U R N A L

JAMIE GOODMAN

“Now this, Beethoven, is your finest movement!”

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