Warsaw Insider - spetember issue by valkea media

Welcome to Warsaw Guide page 70

Strolling Konstancin pages 28-29

Best pizza pies page 54

september

Warsaw Italian-Style

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E D I T O R

COURTESY OF POMIDORO/STARA PAPIERNIA

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EDITOR’S PICK onstancin remains something of a mystery to me since I’m a city-centre kind of girl so I leapt at the proposal of lunch at chic Stara Papiernia. That pizza, thin-crusted, topped with an elegant serving of tomato sauce, delicate mozzarella and olives, was divine. But a glance at the menu at the chalkboard of specials made it clear I’d have to make another trip. First off, the design of this place is pretty cool – it’s a loft-style setup in a renovated 19C paper mill, with minimalist details like rustic white furnishings, exposed brick and even an old-fashioned deli counter. Turns out Ricardo the chef is from Livorno in Tuscany. God knows why he moved to Warsaw but I’m pretty glad he did because the food here is spectacular. It’s just the right mix of elegant and casual. Luca, the manager, hails from Tuscany as well so you’ve got all your bases covered – from the kitchen to the table. I’d gotten a fellow to zip me over on his BMW bike and we made it from my apartment in the centre to the resto in just about fifteen minutes. The thrill of the ride had worked up some serious hunger so I got down to business as soon as we were seated in the bright upstairs dining room. I started off with a glass of Sangiovese (zł.16) to wet my palate and set to work ordering up a storm for my date and myself. We started with salads, I had the caprese with buffalo mozzarella (zł.23) which was quite good but didn’t come close to the marvelousness that Daniel ordered – pere salad with pears, walnuts and goat cheese drizzled with honey (zł.29). For our main dishes, we shared the spaghetti alle vongole (zł.38) and the risotto gamberoni (zł.80). The tiny shellfish were fresh and delicious, with perfect thin spaghetti and peppery spieces while the risotto was perfectly firm, with shrimp so fresh they seemed to be plucked straight from the sea. None of that soggy stuff you get at other places. Everything brought to the table by one of the friendliest waiters in Warsaw – if that’s even possible (wink, wink). If that wasn’t enough, we went on ordering: the bistecca alla fiorentina – a massive T-bone that only the hulk could have managed to polish off in one sitting (zł.70). At the risk of sounding redundant, I have to report that it was juicy, tasty and just brilliant. Ditto for the Sicilian-style tuna steak (zł.49). The mineral flavour of the Pinot Grigio suited the fish very well while Daniel’s Rosso dell’Umbria (zł.100 per bottle) was perfect. (AL)

K Dear Readers, arsaw Italian-Style? Yes. This month it’s all about “The Boot.” From fine dining at San Lorenzo to simply perfect pizza pies at your local pizzeria. Gorgeous Milanese textiles at Joanna Klimas to the latest and most controversial cinematic achievement from Paulo Sorrentino. If you’ve dropped by an „Italiani in Polonia” get-together recently, you’ll no that Italians abound in the city in growing numbers and the dining scene is picking up the pace, with an impressive number of authentic Italianrun restaurants thriving all over the city. This month, we’re also welcoming all the families back to the city. And a special welcome to the newcomers making the cultural adjustment to Warsaw for the first time. Check out Kay Brownsey and Hannah Skaanild’s Welcome to Warsaw feature on settling into the city on page 70. And ASW fams will get a closer glimpse at their local neighbourhood with the Insider’s Strolling Konstancin feature on pages 28-29. Warsaw’s full of premium Italian joints. From low-key pizza at Nonsolo to primo pizza at Pomidoro. And fine Italian eats anywhere from Balgera to La Strada. But rumour has it that Oregano in Białołęka is slowly and surely leading the race… Speaking of races, we’re getting ready to start the voting process for the BOW 2009 Awards. Join us for our Insider party on 17.09 or download the survey online at www.warsawinsider.pl.

Buon Appetito!

Pomidoro at Stara Papiernia (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3 tel. 022 702-8777, www.pomidoro.pl

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The Insider is an independent, accurate and sometimes irreverent account of what’s happening in and around Warsaw. If it’s here, we print it. Insider writers are forbidden to accept payment in return for favourable reviews.

September Insider Party at Sony Style Warsaw, 17 September at 18:30

Strolling Konstancin

01 Letter from the Editor 1

Editor’s Pick Pomidoro Restaurant at Stara Papiernia

04 Events Calendar The best of what the city has to offer, from museums and galleries to concerts and clubbing

Ongoing Exhibitions Sources, Extremely Rare, Screens

16 Till You Drop Where to shop for the best in fashion, accessories and fine food and drink

Insider’s Pick Exhibition opening and Insider cocktail at Latająca 16 Style News Best in books Galeria – Summer by Kasia Domańska 17 Insider’s Pick Joanna Klimas Boutique 14 Screening Room Inglorious Basterds, 23 Inner Beauty Casablanca, The Taking Finest olives oils in store of Pelham 123, Il Divo

September 2009, No. 09 (157) ISSN: 1643-1723 Editor-in-Chief Agnieszka Le Nart

Staff Photographer Production

Advertising Karol Kosiorek Manager kkosiorek@valkea.com

Distribution Manager

28 Strolling the Neighbourhood The best of KonstancinJeziorna

31 Eating Out 31 Insider’s Pick Oregano Restaurant

Information in this guide is accurate as of press time, but things can change quickly and without notice. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

Bartosz Bajerski

Cover Illustration Olka Osadzińska

Łukasz Pogoda lpogoda@valkea.com

Contributors: Richard Astor, Maciek Banasiak, Debbie Battat, Anna Bloda, Caroline Bourreau, Kay Brownsey, Kit F. Chung, Delfine Dewulf, Roberto Galea, Marita Górska, Hilary Heuler, Jerzy Kamecki, Kamella, Maarit Kivinen, Marynia Kruk, Matt Lunch, Magdalena Łapińska, The Mayor, Michał B. Paradowski, Tom Pawlak, Mladen Petrov, Richard Piotrowski, Hannah Skaanild, Richard Skolberg, Kate Brownsey and Sylwia Wojda

alenart@valkea.com Editorial Assistant Magdalena Pytlak

25 Wine Country Superb Italian wines

Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Design www.luxsfera.pl

K. Skirgajłło-Krajewski, M. Żyła Published by VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland;

tel. (48-22) 639-8567; fax (48-22) 639-8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl

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what’s inside:

31-54

La Cucina Italiana

Weekend at the Scottish Ranch

36 Hot Find Garaż Cafe

52 Hot Find Quattro Canti Trattoria

39 Feature Warsaw by Michelin Part 2: Boathouse Restaurant

54 Topping Up The best pizza pies

70 Lifestyle

76 Insider’s Peek All you need to get Ericson Laboratoire around the city, including Anti-Ageing Centre hotels, spas, salons, clinics and community 84 Warsaw Map contacts and Street Index

61 Going Out Top bars and clubs

70 Expat Advice Welcome to Warsaw

48 Chef’s Special The new flavour of Italy at San Lorenzo

61 Insider’s Pick Warszawa Powiśle

44 Hot Find Nowa Vera Italia

64 Boys Behaving Badly Welcome Back!

71 Insider’s Pick Scottish Ranch

...and find much more at www.warsawinsider.pl

Photo by Agnieszka Le Nart

featured contributor

Michał B. Paradowski

Photo credits: 1. Courtesy of Sony 2. By Bartosz Bajerski 3. Courtesy of Pomidoro 4. By Anna J. Kutor 5. Courtesy of Michał B. Paradowski On the cover:

87 Classifieds

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

Michał B. Paradowski is an assistant professor at the University of Warsaw, as well as a food & wine writer and restaurant critic. Apart from the Insider, he contributes to publications like the Zagat Survey, Kuchnia, Magazyn Wino. He got his training at École Ritz Escoffier and Le Cordon Bleu and has won several culinary awards. In his spare time, he enjoys hiking, literature, dance and theatre. You can contact him at m.b.paradowski@gmail.com.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES BY MAGDA PYTLAK AND AGNIESZKA LE NART

ONGOING EXHIBITIONS Photographs – Krzysztof Pijarski – Dłubak – Źródła Galeria Asymetria (thru 11.09)

Sources

COURTESY OF GALERIA ASYMETRIA

With the help of the Photographic Archaeology Foundation, photographer and art historian Krzysztof Pijarski will release a collection of memorabilia belonginging to famed Polish photographer, painter, critic and art theorist Zbigniew Dłubak’s (1965-1991) archival work. Dłubak – Sources is comprised of Dłubak’s documents, notes, photos and negatives which have been categorized, numbered, named and organized. They have been meticulously researched, photographed and reproduced by Pijarski in an attempt to uncover and understand Dłubak’s art, including the elements that were lost of destroyed in the course of history.

Multimedia – Group Show – Extremely Rare Events/Nooawangard Distribution Centre for Contemporary Art at Ujazdowski Castle (thru 20.09)

Extremely Rare

COURTESY OF CSW

Based on a lengthy dialogue dedicated to the phenomenon of „Extremely Rare Events” and the relationship between theories of complexity and art, a plethora of artists, architects, professors and culture theorists teamed up to put together the Nooawangard exhibition. Composed of elements rooted in sciencitific, artistic and architectural phenomena, the exhibition depicts two theoretical perspectives on Friedman’s and Roch’s Utopias.

Multimedia – Jarosław Kozłowski – Parawany Profile Foundation (thru 10.10)

Screens COURTESY OF PROFILE FOUNDATION

The Profile Foundation is holding a show of works by artist Jarosław Kozłowski. Screens is meant to express the artist’s own doubts and queries about art itself, exposing the paradoxes and ambiguities of the language used to talk about art through the medium of a physical screen. There is, on the one hand, a luxurious version revealing what TV monitors hide while the other is a more basic version in which elements concealed by screens are reflected in convex mirrors. In presenting these two extremes, Kozłowski questions the portrayal of reality through a painting and instead demonstrates that a painting is actually a screen shadowing reality and distorting the real-life image it aims to portray.

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EVENTS CALENDAR

Arts, music and clubbing WARSAW’S TOP EVENTS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l

Insider’s Pick

(of the month):

KASIA DOMAŃSKA, COURTESY OF LATAJĄCA GALERIA

Media Patronage

10 THURSDAY

Summer – Paintings by Kasia Domańska

exhibition opening and cocktail 19:00-21:00 Latająca Galeria

arsaw Insider has teamed up with Clotilde Simonis of Simonis Gallery and Latająca Galeria for the opening party of painterphotographer and Warsaw Academy of Fine Arts alum Kasia Domańska’s new show. The exhibition comes from her new Summer series – paintings influenced by images of the season depicted through a dreamlike vision.

By using elements, such as the sunny beach, the bright blue sky, beach umbrellas, the sea’s peaceful waves, beautiful women in warm-hued bikinis and children playing in the sand, Kasia presents a carefree, lazy summer while at the same time challenging the definition of beauty by maintaining distance. There is an artificiality and a certain absence of passionate emotion in her paintings which creates an oxymoronic effect when attributed to this particular subject. Join us for the exhibition opening on the evening of 10 September. Afterwards, catch the show Wed-Sat 11:00-17:00 through the end of the month at Latająca Galeria, ul. Burakowska 9. Info: www.latajaca-galeria.pl

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ONGOING THRU

SEPTEMBER INSIDER PARTY

September 06

COURTESY OF SONY STYLE

September Insider Party & Best of Warsaw 2009 Voting Party, Thursday, 17 September, Start 18:30 Join us for our most stylish Insider party yet at the Sony Style Warsaw store at Arkadia Shopping Centre, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, 2nd Floor (Cinema City Level) Vote for your favourite restaurants, bars, clubs and boutiques in Warsaw and decide who will win this year’s Best of Warsaw 2009 Awards Then enjoy a special cinematic treat at Cinema City, when we screen a pre-premiere screening of Sony Pictures’ Obsessed, starring Beyonce Knowles, Idris Elba, Ali Larter and Jerry Connell Limited Capacity for both Party and Screening so Catering please make sure to RSVP sponsored by to kkosiorek@valkea.com

Jewish Culture Festival Grzybowski Square at ul. Próżna Each year, the Jewish Culture Festival familiarises the Varsovian population with historic and contemporary Jewish culture and tradition. Film projections, workshops, street art, recitals, theatrical spectacles, concerts, literature meetings and exhibitions among others will be the main attractions. Concerts will guest star musicians like Zakopower on 03.09 performing traditional Jewish music and violinist Nigel Kennedy with classic and ethnic-inspired performances based on everything from Bach to Hendrix on 02.09 at the All Saints Church on Pl. Grzybowski. Paintings of the pre-war Capital city and echoes of synagogue song will also fill the air. Info: www.festiwalsingera.pl.

01 TUESDAY concert Jethro Tull 18:00 PKiN – Sala Kongresowa British rock legend, Jethro Tull owes its initial success to concerts in pubs and clubs in southern England, and its longterm success to the 1968 album This Was. Tickets zł.143-187. Info: www.ticketpro.pl.

03 THURSDAY exhibition opening

Or download online voting survey at www.warsawinsider.pl

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Bownik – Gamers Yours Gallery (thru 25.10) Warsaw-based artist and

photographer Bownik takes E-Sport competitors as his subjects in this intriguing show of images portraying gamers within their element. Info: www.yoursgallery.pl.

04 FRIDAY party Aroma Night: My Blueberry Night 21:00 Capitol Club My Blueberry Night presents DJs Martin Harmony and Antony Saint on the decks, celebrating everyone’s other favourite berry with blueberry-themed drinks, décor and surprises. Info: www.clubcapitol.pl.

COURTESY F2K

festival

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Genuine Italian atmosphere, a wide range of fresh fish and seafood dishes Home made pastas and ravioli Business lunch, candlelit dinner and catering available , Open daily from noon till the last guest

Al. Jana Pawâ&#x2C6;?a II 36 (022) 652 16 16 (022) 654 33 77 www.sanlorenzo.pl

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EVENTS CALENDAR

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COURTESY OF FARINELLA & CHOPIN

COURTESY OF OFW

04 FRIDAY – 05 SATURDAY music festival Orange Festival 2009 Plac Defilad, Warsaw Over the first weekend of September, some of the biggest rock, pop, electro and hip-hop acts from around the world will take the stage in front of the Palace of Culture. The Crystal Method, Razorlight, MGMT, N.E.R.D featuring Pharrell Williams, Calvin Harris and Groove Armada will perform for thousands of fans for free! In addition, a number of hip Polish bands will strut their stuff, including Afromental, Maria Sadowska, Skinny Patrini, Out of Tune and JaConfetti. As Warsaw prepares for the title of European City of Culture 2016, it’s pulling out all the stops to impress fans of art and music. Absolutely free! And in the very heart of Warsaw! Info: wwworangefestiwal.pl

06 SUNDAY concert

COURTESY OF EPIC

Macy Gray 20:00 PKiN – Sala Kongresowa With one of the most charasteristic voices and charismatic personalities, Macy Gracy is without a doubt one of the most important figures of soul and R&B. She’s performed alongside Angie Stone, Carlos Santana and FatBoy Slim and has a few Grammys, Brit Awards and MTV Awards behind her. With hits in the past like I Try,

Do Something and Sweet Baby, Macy’s back to perform after a 4 year break with the album Big. And she may perform songs from her upcoming album, The Gray Life. Tickets zł.80-180. Info: www.eventim.pl.

07 MONDAY exhibition opening Ellen Harvey – Ruins Are All the More Lovely Centre for Contemporary Art at Ujazdowski Castle (thru 11.10) British artist Ellen Harvey invades the „laboratory” space at Ujazdowski Castle to bring the past into the present. She’s covered the walls with plexiglass mirrors engraved with images of the site in decades past. The effect is an eerie blast from the past, with the viewer also finding himself part of the vintage image. Old meets new in this unique exhibit, part of the artists-inresidence series at CSW. Info: www.csw.art.pl.

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04 FRI – 13 SUN performance Farinella & Chopin A. Zelwerowicz Theatre Academy Graduates and students of prestigious theatrical and musical academies and universities in Warsaw and London have teamed up to present the Farinella & Chopin International Project. It tells the story of Farinella, struck by depression when she’s faced with life decisions, obstacles and the desire to change. As she attempts to embark on a journey to escape and start over, she struggles with a tarnished past. Led by musicaian and director Natalia Babińska, the show utilizes elements of experimental, pantomimic and performance theatre. Premieres 04.09 at 19:00, with 5 subsequent performances every following evening. Info: www.farinellaandchopin.eu.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

10 SATURDAY theatre performance V International Theatre Festival Dialog Wrocław Considered one of the most important theatrical events in Europe, the International Theatre Festival Dialog-Wrocław presents famous works of great European playwrights from over 20 countries. The aim is to unite Europeans through theatre in an art-oriented city that’s open to new dimensions of creativity and dramatic performance. The 5th edition is themed „In the Face of Evil” and attempts to explore its social definition and its effects on mankind. This year’s programme features the works of 14 directors on stages throughout the city, including Lev Erenburg, William Kentridge, Dmitri Krymov. Runs through 17.10. Tickets zł.35-100. Info: www.dialogfestival.pl.

BARNEY SIMON

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EVENTS CALENDAR

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>> business casual cocktails EsSence of Alkoteka – Jack D. 18:30 Essence Cafe and Restaurant Join your fellow expats to celebrate the birthday of Jack Daniel’s with themed drink specials and unique menu of starters, mains and even desserts inspired by the flavour of JD!

the decks, with expertise built up over years of collaborations with starts like David Morales, Roger Sanchez, Tom Jones and Sophie Ellis-Baxtor. Paweł Jarodzki – Dead End New Art Media Gallery (thru 05.10) In cooperation with the Zachęta National Gallery, New Art Media is hosting a show of works by artist, curator and poet Paweł Jarodzki. Infused with a pop and dada sensibility, these canvases create social commentary through irony in an intelligent and direct manner.

09 WEDNESDAY exhibition opening

party Hed Kandi featuring John Jones and Assaf (Percussion) 21:00 Capitol Club Hed Kandi’s back for it’s 5th Capitol edition, starring legendary music producer and DJ John Jones, accompanied by dummer Assaf. Both guys will dominate

Animatornia Gallery and Performance Space Opening 12:00-22:00 ul. Mokotowska 55 The „ę – Creative Initiative Organization” installs itself into a funky space on ul. Mokotowska as a spot to promote popular culture and art initiatives in the city. Beginning 12 September, Animatornia will host a regular series of exhibitions, concerts, film screenings, performances, happenings and lectures across a variety of genres. Activities are free and open to adults as well as children and young adults. Join other art afficianados at the day-long opening event. Info: www.e.org.pl.

PARTY

Dancing and Cocktails at Confashion 08, 14, 21, 28 Mondays hottest old and new 20:00 Kick off the week with Chillout, Good Vibrations, Smooth Jazz and Trip Hop sounds at Confashion’s new In the Waiting Line party.

01, 08, 15, 22, 29 Tuesdays 20:00 Step back in time to the sounds of 25 years’ of Billboard hits from all over the world.

02, 09, 16, 23, 30 Wednesdays

COURTESY OF CAPITOL CLUB

20:00 Confashion’s How Do I Look bash launches the runway onto the dancefloor with the most popular hits to grace the world’s biggest fashion events. Dress code is definitely fashion forward.

03, 10, 17, 24 Thursdays 20:00 Roll „Like a Rolling Stone” at this rocking bash featuring the best of the best, including The Rolling Stones, The Doors, U2 and Nirvana.

04, 11, 18, 25 Fridays 20:00 It’s This 1 Thing at Confashion brings out the

tunes from soul and rn-b flavour, featuring everybody from Edith Piaf to Beyonce on the first and third Friday of the month, while How It’s Like to Be brings back flower power with the best hits of the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s. Think Woodstock

INSIDER ARCHIVES

11 FRIDAY

12 SATURDAY art opening

COURTESY OF NEW ART MEDIA

Dialogue in Black on White – Polish and Hungarian Graphic Art Królikarnia National Museum (thru 26.10) Królikarnia pays homage this month to the best graphic art originating in Poland and Hungary. The works come from both the National Museum in Warsaw and the Nemzeti Galery from Budapest, featuring over 180 graphics, mostly woodcuts from the interwar period. Info:, www.mnw.art.pl.

COURTESY OF ANIMATORNIA

exhibition opening

05, 12, 19, 26 Saturdays 20:00 Confashion on the Dancefloor blends the best of eveyrthing, with classic house, old school, rn-b and oldies.

06, 13, 20, 27 Sundays Spend your lazy Sundays relaxing to the sounds of the best film music ever made. Free entry for all events. Info: www.confashion.pl

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exhibition opening Lydia Panas – Photographs Yours Gallery (thru 31.10) This unique show features an intriguing series of photographs from American photographer Lydia Panas. The images are characterized by the relationships illustrated by the personalities depicted, examining the play between those who dominate and those who fall into the background of a photograph. Info: www.yoursgallery.pl and www.lydiapanas.com.

18 FRI – 19 SAT party Capitol Classics and Pop Legends Night 21:00 Capitol Capitol’s resident Djs S. Skalski and DJ Dio bring back the classic sounds of disco, funk and pop on

25 FRI – 26 SAT

MEDIA PATRONAGE

party Capitol 1st Birthday Party featuring Ministry of Sound 21:00 Capitol Club This weekend promises to be massive, with Capitol residents stirring up the House beats on Fridaya and the UK’s Kofi bringing the hip hop flavour on Saturday night. Celebrate Capitol’s 1st birthday in style.

26 SATURDAY concert Berlin Philharmonics 20:00 Warsaw Philharmonic One of the world’s premier philharmonic orchestras will perform Beethoven’s D-dur II Symphony at the Warsaw Philharmonic. Tickets zł.250-350 at the Warsaw Philharmonic or www.ticketonline.pl. Discounted tickets for students and seniors.

28 MONDAY concert Tania Maria – Brazilian Touch of Jazz 20:00 Filharmonia Narodowa

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17 THURSDAY exhibition opening Art and Religion of the Stone Age – Cucuteni culture Warsaw Archeological Museum (thru 2008) The new show hosted by Warsaw’s National Archeological Museum and Suceava’s Bucovina Museum Complex portray the expansion of Romanian ancient-neolithic culture of a 5,000 year-old society. Social life, beliefs, customs and art are explored, reaching through to the heart and soul of Romanian culture and art with works collected from Moldavian and Romanian museums. Info: www.pma.pl.

Recognised as one of the most influential artists or jazz, samba and bossa-nova, Tania Maria will be the first guest of Era Jazzu’s fall repertoire. As a talented pianist and dynamic vocalist, Tania Maria mixes Brazilian rhythms with Carribean salsa and jazz, sweetened with elements of bebop and Latin through her staccato vocals. Very much influenced by Nat King Cole and Oscar Peterson,

she’s worked with the greatest artists of jazz from vocalist Sarah Vaugh to guitarist Charlie Byrd. Tickets zł.80-160. Info: www.jazz.pl, www.eventim.pl. COURTESY OF ERA JAZZU

15 TUESDAY

friday, followed by Pop Legends Night on Saturday, featuring the hottest pop hits of all time.

COURTESY OF PMA

>> performance Lady Fosse 19:30 Teatr Capitol Lady Fosse tells a woman’s story through dance. Capitol has teamed up with the Izadora Dance Academy to present choreography enacted by dance champs from Poland and abroad. Repeats 26.09, Saturday at 19:00. Info: www.clubcapitol.pl

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Museums & Galleries

Venues Basen Artystyczny (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6

Appendix2 (Praga) ul. Białostocka 9 www.appendix2.com

Kordegarda (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15/17 www.zacheta.art.pl

Art Gallery ASP ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 tel. 022 826-6744

Le Guern Gallery (D5) ul. Widok 8 www.gallery.leguern.pl

Awangarda Studio (D3) Hotel Europejski, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022 828-0057 www.awangarda.org.pl

LETO Gallery (E5) ul. Hoża 9c, www.leto.pl

Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65 tel. 022 625 51 24, 0516 802 843 www.funbec.eu

National Museum in Warsaw (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl

Capitol (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 tel. 022 826-8570

Nizio Gallery (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 3/4, www.nizio.com.pl

Centralny Basen Artystyczny (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6 tel. 022 339-0761 www.basen.art.pl

Centre for Contemporary Art (CSW) – Ujazdowski Castle (E6) ul. Jazdów 2, tel. 022 625-0522 www.csw.art.pl Galeria ART (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 17 www.galeriaart.pl Galeria Art New Media (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41 www.artnewmedia.pl Galeria ATAK (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 www.atak.art.pl Galeria Wystawa (B1) Al. Wojska Polskiego 29 www.wystawa-galeria.pl Historical Museum of Warsaw (D1) Old Town Rynek 28-42 www.mhw.pl Katarzyna Napiórkowska Art Gallery (D1) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, ul. Puławska 17 www.napiorkowska.pl Konarska-Konarski (D4) ul. Chmielna 28 tel. 022 841-2846 www.konarska-konarski.com.pl

Lokal 30 (E4) ul. Foksal 17 B, www.lokal30.pl

Raster ul. Hoża 42/8, raster.art.pl/galeria Royal Castle (D2) pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. 022 355-5361 www.zamek-krolewski.com.pl Simonis Gallery (A1) Latająca galeria ul. Burakowska 9, tel. 022 637-3610 www.simonisgallery.com www.latajaca-galeria.pl Warsaw Archeological Museum – Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 022 504-4800 www.pma.pl Warsaw Rising Museum (A4) ul. Grzybowska 79, tel. 022 539-7905 www.1944.pl WizyTUjąca GALERIA (Wola) ul. Bema 65, www.tugaleria.pl Yours Gallery (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 33 www.yoursgallery.com Zachęta National Art Gallery (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3 tel. 022 827-5854 www.zacheta.art.pl

Bemowo Airfield ul. Powstańców Śląskich Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture and Science, pl. Defilad 1 tel. 022 656-6281 www.kulturalna.pl

EnigmaWarsaw Historic Tours www.enigmawarsaw.com tel. 022 351-2222 The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 www.theeve.pl Fotoplastikon (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 51 www.fotoplastikon.steroes.com Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 tel. 022 222-0700 www.hardrock.com Jazzownia Liberalna (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3 www.jazzownia.com Kino LAB (E6) CSW Zamek Ujazdowski ul. Jazdów 2, tel. 022 628-1271 www.csw.art.pl/kino_lab/ Platinium Club & Restaurant (D3) ul. Fredry 6, www.platiniumclub.pl

Reduta Banku Polskiego (D2) ul. Bielańska 10 www.reduta.pl Sala Kongresowa (C4) Pałace of Culture and Science, pl. Defilad 1 www.pkin.pl/sala_kongresowa/ Skwer (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60A Służewiec Racetrack (Służewiec) ul. Puławska 266 www.torsluzewiec.pl Stadion Gwardii (A10) ul. Racławicka 132 tel. 022 844-3596 Stodoła (D8) ul. Batorega 10 tel. 022 825-6031 www.stodola.pl Teatr Studio (C4) pl. Defilad 1 (PkiN) tel. 022 656-6941 www.teatrstudio.pl Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8 tel. 022 828-3409 www.tygmont.com.pl Warsaw University Botanical Garden (D7) Al. Ujazdowskie 4 Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00 A. Zelwerowicz Theatre Academy (D2) ul. Miodowa 22/24

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September CINEMA

8/25/09

3:00 PM

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THE SCREENING ROOM

Current issue: 01 – 30 September 2009. See more at: www.warsawinsider.pl

Wartime Drama. USA, Dir. Quentin Tarantino with Brad Pitt, Eli Roth, Diane Kruger

COURTESY OF UIP

opens SEPTEMBER 11

Inglourious Basterds Bękarty Wojny

illustrated by frames of scalping or bludgeoning enemies to death with umours that Quentin Tarantino had baseball bats, earned them the moniker been working on a WWII epic “The Basterds.” The master plan is to get surfaced in the late nineties. Some might rid of the crème de la crème of Nazi argue, therefore, that Inglourious Basterds powers who happen to be holed up in a has been among the longest works-incinema owned by a woman who has her progress in modern cinema history. own axe to grind. In the film, we follow US Army Inglourious Basterds is quintessential Lieutenant Aldo Raine (Pitt) who leads a Tarantino, a director who definitely needs group of Jewish soldiers deep behind no introduction, shocking audiences into Nazi German lines faced with a simple a dazed submission time and time again. mission: to defeat the enemy from within His latest work has all the classic and hence bring the Third Reich to its Tarantino elements we’ve come to love knees. The group’s fierce nature, about his works: convoluted storylines,

Casablanca COURTESY OF VIVARTO

opens SEPTEMBER 25 Melodrama. USA, Dir. Michael Curtiz with Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman

premiering this month 4th The Ugly Truth (Brzydka prawda) Romantic Comedy. USA, Dir. Robert Luketic with Gerard Butler, Katherine Heigl

11th Gamer (Gracze) Thriller. USA, Dir. Mark Neveldine, Brian Taylor with Gerard Butler, John Leguizamo The Accidental Husband (Przypadkowy mąż) Romantic Comedy. USA, Dir. Griffin Dunne with Uma Thurman, Jeffrey Dean Morgan, Colin Firth

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witty dialogues, foxy females and lots of violence! WWII according to Tarantino? Why not? (RG)

lay it again, Sam. Indeed. Those P timeless words are the stuff of cinematic legend. It comes as no surprise

surrounds him and avoids any close ties to any particular person or object. Until the day his former lover, Ilsa to those of us who have already seen (Bergman) walks into his establishment Casablanca (1942) that it’s one of the with her husband, a resistance fighter. major masterpieces of Hollywood’s She asks Rick to help the couple obtain golden age. This September, audiences transit letters so that they can escape will get a chance to see Rick and Ilsa in the French-controlled city and go to full glory up on the big screen. America. The two rekindle old flames Starring acting legends Humphrey against the flaming backdrop of war in Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, Casablanca a whirlwind story of politics, deceit is set in Morocco during the early days and treachery. of World War II. Rick Blaine (Bogart) is Despite its release over 65 years ago, an American expat who runs “Rick’s the story has not aged one bit and is as Cafe Bar” in Vichy-controlled thrilling for new audiences as for those Casablanca. Rick is a fairly charismatic who’ve seen it time and time again. fellow when he wants to be, but he’s Vivarto Films gives Polish audiences a very much a man who minds his own chance to see this dazzling gem on the business amid the chaos which big screen once again. (RG)

Let’s Make Money (Zaróbmy jeszcze więcej) Documentary. Austria, Dir. Erwin Wagenhofer

18th Obsessed (Obsesja) Thriller. USA, Dir. Steve Shill with Beyonce Knowles, Idris Elba, Ali Larter The Courageous Heart of Irena Sendler (Dzieci Ireny Sendlerowej) Biopic. USA, Dir. John Kent Harrison with Anna Paquin, Marcia Gay Harden, Goran Visnjic

Il y a longtemps que je t’aime (Kocham cię od tak dawna) Drama. France, Dir. Philippe Claudel with Kristin Scott Thomas, Elsa Zylberstein

25th Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs (Klopsiki oraz inne zjawiska pogodowe) Family/Animation. USA, Dir. Philippe Lord, Chris Miller Surrogates (Surogaci) Sci-Fi Thriller. USA, Dir. Jonathan Mostow with Bruce Willis, Rosamund Pike, Radha Mitchell

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3:00 PM

Page 15

THE SCREENING ROOM COURTESY OF UIP

The Taking of Pelham 1 2 3 Metro Strachu

in THEATRES Action, Drama. USA, Dir. Tony Scott with Denzel Washington, John Travolta, John Turturro

of criminals led by Ryder (Travolta) seizes a subway train and makes demands on City Hall to give them $10 million in ransom money before the hour is up. If the payment is late, Ryder threatens to start snuffing one passenger after another. What ensues is a suspenseful rollercoaster ride around the Big Apple. The film has been panned by some critics since it’s release last month and although it might not be Tony Scott’s (The Last Boy Scout; Enemy of the State) best work, it’s sure keeps audiences riveted in a fast-paced action thriller. Plus the top-rate performances from the star-studded cast is reason enough to check out this metropolitan cat-andmouse chase. (RG)

ubway dispatcher Walter Garber S (Washington) usually spends his days sitting in front of screens directing train traffic until his whole routine is shattered one fateful morning. A group

COURTESY OF AGAINST GRAVITY

The director sought out the enigmatic personage of former Italian Prime Minister Giulio Andreotti as the subject of his latest film. Andreotti is one of the opens SEPTEMBER most important political figures in Italy over the past few decades and also the Biopic. Italy, France, Dir. Paolo Sorrentino most mysterious. The man’s life and with Toni Servillo and Anna Bonaiuto career, which started illustriously in 1942, only to fall into scandalous disrepute in riginally released in May 2008 the mid-1990s when his ambiguous in Italy, Paolo Sorrentino’s mafia ties came to light. After a series of controversial film Il Divo won a “Sélection trials, convictions and acquittals, he Officielle” Jury Prize at last year’s drifted away from the political scene but Cannes Film Festival, along with thirteen remains a powerful figure in the minds of other awards around the world. many Italians. Described by those who

Il Divo Boski

knew him as a charismatic persona with a heart of darkness, a man who loved power and would stop at nothing to attain it. (AL)

movie theaters Atlantic (D4), ul. Chmielna 33, tel. 022 827-0894, www.kinoatlantic.pl Cinema City Arkadia (A1), al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping Mall), tel. 022 321-2121, www.cinema-city.pl Cinema City Mokotów (C12), ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 022 456-6500, www.cinema-city.pl Cinema City Promenada, ul. Ostrobramska 75, tel. 022 611-7511, www.cinema-city.pl Cinema City Sadyba, ul. Powsińska 31, tel. 022 550-3333, www.cinema-city.pl Orange IMAX Warszawa, ul. Powsińska 31, tel. 022 550-3333, www.kinoimax.pl Femina (B3), al. Solidarności 115, tel. 022 654-4545, www.heliosnet.pl

Kinoteka (C5), Palace of Culture, entrance from al. Jerozolimskie, tel. 022 826-1961, www.kinoteka.pl Kultura (D3), ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21/23, tel. 022 826-3335. Multikino (C4) at Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 201-1610, www.multikino.pl Nove Kino Praha, Centrum Praha, ul. Jagiellońska 26, tel. 022 619-3371 www.novekino.pl/kina/praha Ochota (A7), ul. Grójecka 65, tel. 022 822-2473. Silver Screen Cinemas ul. Puławska 17 (E8), tel. 022 852-8888, ul. Głębocka 15, tel. 022 310-2000, ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), tel. 022 533-4666, www.silverscreen.pl

Wisła pl. Wilsona 2, tel. 022 839-2365, www.novekino.pl/kina/wisla

arthouse cinemas Iluzjon (D8), ul. Narbutta 50a, tel. 022 646-1260, www.fn.org.pl. KINO.LAB (E6), Centre for Contemporary Art, Zamek Ujazdowski, al. Ujazdowskie 6, tel. 022 628-1271, www.kinolab.art.pl Luna (D6), ul. Marszałkowska 28, tel. 022 621-7828, 022 628-9865, www.kinoluna.pl Muranów (C2), ul. Gen. Andersa 1, tel. 022 831-0358, www.muranow.gutekfilm.com.pl Rejs (D3), ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21/23, tel. 022 826-3335.

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8/24/09

12:44 PM

book news…

Page 16

fashion shifts to the back burner as we put the focus on some the best photography and design albums out this month

Following the exhibition of photographs taken at the Jarocin and Woodstock Music Festivals of the late ‘70s/early ‘80s, the creators have published the complete album of images. Music of the Young Generation – It’s Been 30 Years features stars of young Polish rock in the years 1978-1982. The album features illustrated documentary of the birth and expansion of Polish rock with over 350 photos taken by legendary icon Jacek Awakumowski. This album captures over a thousand pictures of the most important moments in Polish rock history.

30 Years Young

A Head Start

Futu Future The FUTU Design Guide is a new professional, exclusive monthly magazine specializing in design, fashion and contemporary culture. The debut issue comes out this month, sporting the best trends from around the world and FDG features the latest technology and creative design. It’s published in Polish, but the highquality images are worth at least a thousand words or more so linguistic hurdles can be overlooked. FDG will be available in media stores all over the country and in select boutiques and bookstores. For design fans, the newest issue of Valkea’s Prestige House design mag will also be out at the end of the month.

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Kids (Dzieciaki) is the result of an amazing collaboration between the art community and underpriveleged youth in Targówek. Wojtek Przybylski, a volunteer for the Targówek Children’s Society, invited the kids he works with to participate in a series of photography workshops. Photographer Tomek Niewiadomski ran the project and thanks to his efforts and funding from Procter & Gamble’s “Live, Learn, Grow” program, these kids got their hands on a fully-loaded camera. Over the course of the next few weeks, the kids participated in a number of field trips around Warsaw. Out of 4,500 images taken by these kids around the city, 200 were selected by Tomek and celebrated in this special collection published by the Element 65 Foundation. The bilingual (Polish-English) album is available at the bookshop in the Zachęta National Gallery, Pl. Małachowskiego 3. Info: galeria65.com.

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8/23/09

9:08 PM

Page 17

TILL YOU DROP Helping you indulge your high-end guilty pleasures

THIS MONTH:

* 10 UPDATES

fashion .............................18 beauty & fragrances.........22 food and drink..................27 sports gear .......................24 bookshops.......................30 accessories ......................20 interior design..................24 jewelry & watches.............21 kids’ stuff .........................26 shopping malls ................30

Insider’s Pick

(of the month):

HOT FIND

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 022 831-0292 www.joannaklimas.com Open Mon-Fri 09:00-20:00

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

“A great excuse to nurse an espresso and watch the artisans at work…”

ew arrivals in Poland probably won’t remember the Joanna Klimas of the 1990s, when the visionary designer shook up the Polish fashion scene with her Chanel-like minimalism. But for those who do remember, it’s official: Klimas is back. She has been hiding out in the world of costume design for nearly a decade, but as her amiable boutique manager Marta put it, she stepped back into the world of real-life couture “because we decided we had something to say in the fashion industry.” It seems the message of this first collection, on show at her new shop, is that elegant clothing need not conflict with a woman’s ambition. There are racks of well-tailored jackets and trousers for businesswomen, each emphasizing rich the Italian fabrics and functionality over frills. We found an elegant black coat, made of delicately detailed material, and an even more striking metallic silver model that would make the wearer look both sleek and a bit space-age (zł.1,800). But it’s not all about work in this shop, and my friend and I immediately began to eye the dresses. Agnieszka covetously fingered a meltingly-soft purple and white silk number (zł.2,400), while I had my eye on a short green sequined dress patterned with a curling vine and a burst of bright leaves (zł.3,500). One thing that makes Klimas’ shop so interesting is its creative energy. Not only are there a couple of wild creations clearly reminiscent of her costume design days, but a good third of the space is devoted to a workshop where you can actually see her tailors cutting and sewing right in front of your eyes. The calming white room also doubles as a café, with hot espressos and cappuccinos served out of a fashionable vintage-style Italian machine. The Italian theme plays out in the showroom too, with each gorgeous fabric imported straight from top Italian manufacturers. Agnieszka fell in love with a red silk chiffon splayed with red roses and lush green leaves. She’s saving up her złoty so she can get her dream dress sewn by Ms. Klimas. “I can already see it now, light and flowing, perfect for the summer wedding I’ve got to get to at the end of the month,” she gushed as she longingly stroked the fabric. The bespoke option is certainly handy as the shop doesn’t carry many sizes, so unless you’re a size 36, there’s a good chance you’ll have to place an order a few weeks in advance. But it’s also a great excuse to drop by, nurse an espresso, and watch the artisans at work. (HH)

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September SHOPS

8/23/09

9:08 PM

Page 18

…TILL YOU DROP

Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >>

INDEX 3F Studio...................................24 4F Sport Performance ...............24 Add Store ..................................18 American Bookstore .................30 Anna Walker ..............................18 Angielski Antykwariat ...............30 Arkadia......................................30 As You Like It.............................30 Avocado ....................................18 Bagatt .......................................20 Bally..........................................20 Batida........................................27 Bed and Breakfast ....................24 Benedictine Products................27 Blikle Delikatesy........................27 Blue City....................................30 Bo Concept ...............................24 The Body Shop .........................22 Bonpoint...................................26 Burberry ....................................18 Burton Shop 20,........................24 C.K. Oboźnia .............................27 Casa Mia ...................................24 Centrum Wina ...........................27 Cepelia......................................24 Ceramika MM............................24 Chicco .......................................26 Chopin Luxury ...........................27 Church’s....................................20 Confetti .....................................26 Czuły Barbarzyńca ....................30 DDR Studio................................24 Deni Cler....................................18 Diesel & D2 Outlet.....................18 Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon.........22 Elf Joy.........................................21 Empik........................................30 Emporio Armani ........................19 Enoteka .....................................27 Ermenegildo Zegna ...................19

Fabryka Miśków at Smyk ..........26 Fashion House Outlet Centre .........................30 Flaming & Co. ............................19 Forget-me-not............................19 Frey Wille ...................................21 Fridge by yDe ............................22 Furla ..........................................20 Gal i Lu Neoperfumeria.............22 Gal i Lu Olfactory.......................22 Galeria Mokotów.......................30 George Ballantine’s...................27 Go Sport....................................24 Green Establishment.................19 Harnn & Thann..........................22 Hermitage Boutique..................22 Horn & More .............................20 Hublot Boutique .......................22 Hugo Boss.................................19 id Interior Design ......................24 Institut Clarins...........................22 Intersport ..................................24 J.M. Weston ...............................21 Jeanstore ...................................19 Jaime Mascaro ..........................20 Jung & Lecker ............................27 Justyna Chrabelska....................19 Kalimba.....................................26 Kartell........................................24 Kasia Witak Homemade Cakes .................27 Kate & Kate ...............................22 Klif.............................................30 Kolo Antiques Market ...............24 KOM ..........................................27 Konarska-Konarski ....................24 Krakowski Kredens....................27 Kuchniasklep ............................24 L’Aura ........................................19 La Cave de Philippe de Givenchy........27

fashion

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

Add Store (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 21, tel. 0502 622-820 Open daily 11:00-20:00. Add Store is a funky boutique-cum-chic cafe with an array of eclectic

La Passion du Vin......................27 Laura Guidi................................19 Le Chocolat ...............................27 Likus Concept Store...................19 Lilou Signature Bijoux...............22 Lilla Moda..................................19 L’Occitane .................................22 Lullaby ......................................26 Luxury & Liberty ........................19 M&P Exclusive Wines................27 M.A.C. .......................................22 Magazyn Praga .........................26 Maison Creative........................26 Maskarada ................................19 MAX&Co. ...................................19 Mielżyński Wine Bar..................27 Mimbla......................................26 Mokotowska 71.........................26 Moliera 2 ...................................19 Mothercare ...............................26 Mufka ........................................19 Murano Gallery..........................21 Nastroje Vintage........................19 Nasze Przysmaki .......................27 Nespresso.................................30 Niebieskie Migdały ...................27 Noa Noa Outlet..........................19 Numery Litery............................30 Od Czasu do Czasu...................22 Odzieżowe Pole ........................20 Oficyna Alessi ...........................26 One Eighty ................................20 Panorama .................................30 Paryżanka Studio......................20 Peek & Cloppenburg.................20 Petit Patapon.............................27 Pinko.........................................20 PKS Snowboard Shop...............24 Porthos......................................21 Promenada ...............................30 Quality Perfumeria....................22

fashion for everyone from hipster teens to sophisticated fashionistas. This is the spot for a one-of-a-kind accent to your wardrobe. Anna Walker (B6) tel. 022 825-0664, www.annawalker.eu This new atelier comes from Candadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish eveningwear. Avocado (D4) ul. Bracka 1, tel. 0-693 713-447 www.avocado.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat: 11:00-15:00 Avocado is an intimate little lingerie shop in the center of town which offers stylish undergarments. They cater to bustier women in particular.

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Rajana .......................................21 Recamiere.................................26 Red Onion.................................26 Redford & Grant........................20 Robbe & Berking.......................26 RS1............................................20 RS2 ...........................................20 RS3 Warszawska Nike ...............21 SABON ......................................24 Sabotage ..................................20 Sadyba Best Mall......................30 Salomon Shop..........................24 Scandinavian Living..................26 Schumacher..............................20 Selected with Love....................20 Sergio Rossi...............................21 Shoe Be Do ...............................21 Sklep Słoneczny .......................24 Słodki… Słony… ......................30 SMYK.........................................27 Snobissimo...............................20 Spacestation.............................26 Star Jubiler ................................22 Swarovski..................................22 Targówek...................................30 Time Trend ................................22 Vespa Boutique ........................20 Vinarius.....................................30 Vistula.......................................20 Vom Fass...................................30 W.Kruk.......................................22 Wedel........................................30 Winarium ..................................30 Winobranie ...............................30 Wola Park..................................30 Zieliński ....................................26 Zielony Kot ................................22 Złote Tarasy...............................30 Zoom.........................................26

Burberry (E5) Plac Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584-7040 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 10:00-17:00 The English brand known for its classic trench and trademark plaid lining brings Cool Britannia style to Warsaw. Deni Cler (E4) ul. Kopernika 8/18, tel. 022 827-9168; Blue City; Galeria Mokotów, Klif, Panorama www.denicler.com; Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat: 11:00-15:00 Shopping center locations: www.denicler.pl Polish brand based on classic Italian design. Great for formal wear. Diesel & D Squared Outlet (Praga) ul. Grochowska 241, tel. 022 810-4916. Open 11:00-19:00. Located in Warsaw’s

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9:08 PM

…TILL YOU DROP

Praga district, past season Diesel clothing at a 40-70% discount.

Rock & Republic, True Religion and Plein Sud, they’ve got it all.

Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 022 626-0650. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 10:00-17:00 The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle in the center of town.

Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) tel. 0502 437-200, info@justynachrabelska.com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by apointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one.

Flaming & Co. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 022 629-0545, www.flaming-co.com Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store brings a seaside breeze to Warsaw. Weathered rattan and whitewashed wood is everywhere. Rustic kitchen accessories to armchairs and fashion collections from Polo Ralph Lauren, See by Chloe, Paul & Joe, Bensimon and James Perse. Forget-me-not (D4) ul. Chmielna 21, #3, tel. 022 826-4506 www.forgetmenot.pl The boutique down the street has closed, but fashion Insiders flock to this elegant showroom to score unique pieces from some of Poland’s best designers, alongside talent from all over Europe. Ideal for special events. Call in advance for appointment. Green Establishment (Praga) ul. Wileńska 13, tel. 022 670-2076 www.greenestablishment.pl Brilliant Local Wear collection designed by a young Polish duo now available at this newly-opened shop in a refurbished landmark building on the right bank of the Vistula. Custom orders available. Hugo Boss (E4) pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14 , tel. 022 627-2400; Klif, Złote Tarasy www.hugoboss.com Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Any man who shops here knows what style is all about. Allow Mr. Boss to dress you in a bespoke suit, complimented with a perfectly-knotted tie. Jeanstore (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, Level 1 Promenada, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, Level 0 Jeanstore is a one-stop shop for the world’s most exclusive denim brands. From celebrity faves 7 for all mankind, J Brand, Juicy Couture,

L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 022 625-1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Laura Guidi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 22, tel. 022 827-6899; Shopping center locations: Złote Tarasy www.lauraguidi.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. A leading Polish fashion house, well-known for its refreshing colours and flattering designs. Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 022 492-7409. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. BOW 2008 “Best Fashion” Winner.

Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00, Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But it’s fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip. Maskarada (C5) ul. Wspólna 65, tel. 0515 307-576

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-14:00 This little shop is off the beaten path but definitely worth checking out. It’s got rare pieces imported from Italy, mostly under the Farina Rosa label. Rather on the pricey side but the quality is on the money.

COURTESY OF MASKARADA

* updates!

Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584-7000, www.zegna.com Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne.

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MAX&Co. (E5) Plac Trzech Krzyży 8, tel.022 821-9880 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 11:00-17:00 A two-level store features large windows that overlook the Plac Trzech Krzyży. Great designer clothes for a manageable price. Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel. 022 827-7099, www.moliera2.com, office@moliera2.com Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00 Devoted exclusively to the fashion houses of Valentino and Salvatore Ferragamo, this fancy boutique is stocked with all three Valentino lines as well as accessories from Ferragamo. Mufka (E3) ul. Solec 101, www.mufka.waw.pl Sort of like a thrift store but a bit chicer. Original clothes, shoes, handbags and jewelry for adults and kids. Nastroje – Garederoba z przeszłością (D3) ul. Królewska 2, tel 600 358 339 Open Mon-Fri 12:00-18:00, Sat 12:00-15:00 Translated as “A Wardrobe with a Past,” this is the vintage clothing store for the patient shopkeeper, who desn’t mind riffling through a couple of funky items to find the true gems they’re after. Noa Noa Outlet Store (D4) ul. Chmielna 24, www.noanoa.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00 As it is an outlet of the Danish fashion label that started up 30 years ago, everything here is marked down at least 70 percent. These clothes are romantic, a bit Victorian with a hint of the exotic. Prices range from zł.50-300 and these pieces are limited in stock so you won’t see everyone else wearing the same outfit. >>

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SHOPS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Odzieżowe Pole (E6) ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 022 622-4867 This is the only place in Warsaw where you can find limited-edition pieces from some of Poland’s most talented young designers. Beautifully feminine dresses, skirts, blouses and jackets. There’s also a fashionable cafe upstairs for a quick-pick-me-up.

One Eighty (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 3/5, tel. 0605 052-882 www.oneeighty.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 One eighty (180) is a high-end boutique located in the building of the former Życie Warszawy news offices in the city center. The pieces in the collection focus on a simple sillhoutte on hand-painted silk, highlighted with a blast of colour and embroidery. Paryżanka Studio Fashion (E6) ul. Mokotowska 46, tel. 022 621-3128 Located on the fashionable ul. Mokotowska street just off Plac Trzech Krzyży, this boutique features lovely pieces from top Italian designers Moschino and Blumarine. Peek & Cloppenburg (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Arkadia Peek & Cloppenburg offers everything a seemingly-endless selection of designer clothing for the preppy man, woman and their fashionable brood. From Tommy Hilfigger, Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss to Marc Cain, Cavalli and Armani. Pinko (D4) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 022 628 5048; Promenada shopping centre, www.pinko.it Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-18:00. Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes. Redford and Grant (D3) at the Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 022 313-2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. BOW 2008 “Best Fashion” Runner-up. RS1 (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, www.rs-store.pl Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00, Sat 12:00-17:00 RS1 is the continuation of the Guerilla Store concept founded by Robert Serek. Only this one is here to stay. This is the place to go for

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fashion-forward items from Comme Des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, sunglasses by Linda Farrow for Raf Simons and Bernhard Wilhelm, as well as cool trainers from designer Puma collections by Alexander McQueen, Mihara and Rudolf Dassler. RS2 (E6) *ul. Koszykowa 24, www.rs-store.pl

ul. Nowy Świat 82, Arkadia, Klif, Galeria Mokotów, Panorama, Promenada, Reduta, Sadyba Best Mall, Blue City, Złote Tarasy www.vistula.pl Classic mens’ suits and accessories.

accessories

Open Mon-Fri 13-20, Sat 12:00-15:00 The RS-branded hipster streak continues down Koszykowa street with RS2, stocked with special edition Reebock and New Balance designer trainers, Cheap Monday denim and tees, along with the very chic Wood Wood label.

Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 022 621-9144 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Plac Trzech Krzyży.

Sabotage (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 887-1056, Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London or Tokyo.

Bally (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 022 551-5469, www.bally.com Mon- Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 -16:00 The company name has been synonymous with top-class shoes for 160 years, and Bally’s shoes are still the stuff of a fashionista’s dreams. Here, you can also find handbags, leather jackets and a small yet sturdy fashion collection.

Schumacher (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 022 621-9950 This boutique sells über-chic clothing from the Schumacher line in a pristine, minimalist setting and comfortable fitting and lounge area. Selected with Love (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 4 (courtyard), tel. 022 696-7451 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-14:00 An extension of the cheerful Pracowniagaleria art gallery at the same address, this chic little boutique features an array of one-of-a-kind furnishings from artisans across Europe and collection of high-quality vintage fashion. Snobissimo (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 022 629-8759, snob@snob.pol.pl, www.snobissimo.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Label snobs rejoice: this is the place for you! Les Copains and Giorgio Armani clothing and footwear from Jimmy Choo. Vespa Boutique (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 0600 032-007, 0603 103 888 www.vespalife.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:0020:00 This is the only highstreet-style Vespa showroom in the city centre. Here you can find LXV, LX, S, GTS and GTV models. Special orders are done in record time. Vistula (multiple locations) al. Jana Pawła II 18, tel. 022 620-2701,

Burton Shop Adrenalina at Blue City (A6) Level -1, 022 311-7370, www.adrenalinasklep.pl Open daily 10:00-22:00. This shop stocks all you need for functional and fashionable snowboard gear from top brands. Church’s (E5) Plac Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 022 745-0810 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 10:00-17:00 A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Furla (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 022 627-0707 www.furla.com Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00 The highly-coveted handbag labe’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan. Horn & More (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 022 628-4007, www.hornandmore.com, office@hornandmore.com Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00 This eclectic, unconventional shop, run by former Glamour fashion editors, Adam and Adam. The shop flaunts beauty through sensuality in a range of items, such as exclusive teas, daring perfumes, erotic lingerie, high-quality cosmetics, original jewelry and intimate gadgetry. Jaime Mascaro (E4) ul. Mysia 5 (Liberty Corner), tel. 022 596-5115 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00

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J.M. Weston (E5) Plac Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 022 745-0810 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 10:00-17:00. This French luxury leather shoe and accessories brand has been known for its Parisian style and American-inspired technique since the late 19th century. Murano Gallery (D5) ul. Mokotowska 61(entry on ul. Wilcza), tel. 022 424-8242 This nondescript shop features an array of pieces from world-famous glassware artisan Murano, including jewelry and housewares. A great selection of pastseason designer handbags on sale as well. Porthos (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 9/15, tel. 022 825-0907, www.porthos.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. A selection of casual headgear for every season – from berets to classic fedoras.

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* updates! The Mascaro family has been making shoes for three generations. Here, you can get the latest styles in quality materials for a fraction of what you’d pay at the P3K shops up the street.

8/23/09

Chloe, Moschino, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney and Veronique Brahnquino.

Rajana (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 887-1048, www.rajana.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. Vibrant silks imported straight from Cambodia are sold here here as jackets, scarves, formal wear and bolts of silk for home décor.

jewelry & watches Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 0-792 793-729, www.elfjoy.com Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order.

RS3 (Warszawska Nike) (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 022 629-2636, www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space. Sergio Rossi (E5) ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 022 629-9505 Sergio Rossi’s Warsaw boutique offers the newest styles, colors and trends in high-end footwear for women and men. Shoe Be Do (C12) Galeria Mokotów, tel. 022 541 3712 If you love designer shoes from the world’s top fashion houses, this is the place for you. An absolute wonderland of the latest styles from Michael Kors, Galliano, Marc Jacobs,

ul. Nowy Świat 37 (D4), tel. 022 827-5503, www.frey-wille.com Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00, Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based

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SHOPS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. Hermitage Boutique (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 022 323-76 76 www.hermitage.pl Get set to indulge at Warsaw’s most prestigious fine watch and jewelry boutique. Offers a world-class selection of pieces from Girard Perregaux, Chopard, Bvlgari, Blancpain, Chaumet, de Grisogono, Omega, Breitling and Scatolo del Tempo, along with limited edition Vertu mobile handsets. Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 022 821-0101 This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world. Kate & Kate (D5) ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 0501 021-841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend or fellow Insider. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories. The boutique’s owner travels the continent in search of designers. One of our hottest finds yet. Lilou Signature Bijoux (C6) by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang ul. Filtrowa 50, tel. 0501-713-880, www.lilou.pl (by appointment only). Run by designer Magdalena MoussonLestang, this workshop and showroom has got original handmade pieces that make great gifts. Od Czasu do Czasu at Złote Tarasy (C4) ul Złota 59, tel. 022 222-0305 www.zegarki.info.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Offers a brilliant selection of watches and fine jewelry from the likes of IWC, Chopard, H. Moser, Maurice Lacroix, Longines, Perrelet, Rado, Roamer and Certina. Limited Edition pieces and accessories from Montblanc, Dunhill and Korloff also available. Star Jubiler (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222-0383, www.starjubiler.pl A wide selection of diamonds and quality jewelry. Swarovski (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12 Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59 www.swarovski.com The world’s most famous crystal sparkles in

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earrings, pendants, bracelets, rings, animal figurines and sunglasses. Time Trend (multiple locations) ul. Głębocka 15, ul. Chmielna 35, ul. Jubilerska 1/3, ul. Puławska 427; Galeria Mokotów Blue City, Arkadia, Złote Tarasy www.zibi.pl Time Trend (Zibi) is the biggest chain of watch showrooms in Poland with famous brands, such as: Seiko, Certina, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Guess and CK. W. Kruk (D6) pl. Konstytucji 6, tel. 022 628-7534; Złote Tarasy www.wkruk.pl Renowned for its high-quality amber in gorgeous settings, Kruk continues to delight the jewelry-lover. The place to find an original amber treasure. BOW 2008 “Best Accessories” Winner. Zielony Kot (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, tel. 022 826-5118, www.zielonykot.global.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00, Sat 11:00-17:00 An awesome array of costume and silver jewelry. Thousands of pieces to choose from in this tiny shop.

beauty & fragrances The Body Shop (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun. 10:0020:00. Fresh and fabulous products. Pick up a Community Trade product and spend your money with a clear conscience. Dior Institute and Dessange Salon (D3) Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 022 331-0808 or 022 331-4994 www.diorinstitut.com, wwww.dessange.pl This sleek boutique offers a full selection of Dior cosmetics and beauty products, along with a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff. Fridge by yDE (B5) ul. Miedziana 11, tel. 022 628-0073, www.fridgebyyde.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-14:00. This ultra-chic cosmetics shop specializes in products with allnatural ingredients and essential oils, based on scents such as rose, honey, lemon, ginger. It’s stocked with scrubs, lotions and scents, plus products specially tailored for men and kids. It’s even got a treatment room for all the facial and exfoliating rubdown addicts. Gal i Lu Neoperfumeria (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 828-3900,

www.galilu.pl Open Mon-Fri 08.00-20.00; Sat 10.00-18:00. A jaunt to Gal i Lu is sheer indulgence for your olfactory receptors. Exclusive perfumes, aromatherapy oils and skincare products. Facial and body treatments BOW 2008 “Best Cosmetics” Winner. too. Gal i Lu Olfactory (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 022 628-3000, www.galilu.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 Here you can find unique scents for men and women, created in artisanal workshops in Italy, France and Spain, with the help of Galilu’s friendly shopgirls. Harnn & Thann (C4) Złote Tarasy Floor 1, tel. 022 222-0563, www.harnn.pl or www.thann.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun. 10:00-20:00. This award-winning Asian line of skin care products is made of all-natural products, from herbs and fruits to essential oils and jasmine. Institut Clarins (E7) ul. Polna 3, tel. 022 875-9642, www.clarins.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:30-21:00; Sat 09:00-17:00. Offers a complete line of the deluxe skin-care and cosmetics brand. L’Occitane (multiple locations) Arkadia Shopping Centre, tel. 022 323-7084 Galeria Mokotów, tel. 022 541-3316, Promenada, tel. 022 611-7708. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. At the L’Occitane boutique, one can indulge in unique skincare products inspired by the principles of phytotherapy and aromatherapy. Your Insider especially recommends the heavenly Immortelle line. Ideal for gifts. M.A.C. (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59 and Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 0697-916-170. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun. 10:00-20:00. M.A.C has just opened a new shop in Arkadia. Fans of the brand’s bold colours and high quality products now have their choice of two chic shops in Warsaw. Quality Perfumeria (multiple locations) Hotel Marriott, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79; Centrum Handlowe Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, ul. Kędzierskiego 3B (Bemowo) www.perfumeriaquality.pl Next to Gal i Lu, one of the best places in Warsaw to get top-shelf cosmetics and truly unique scents. From Annick Goutal, Bond 09, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Robert Piguet, Serge Lutens, Creed and even Courvoisier, this is the place to indulge your nose.

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Inner Beauty

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EDITED BY AGNIESZKA LE NART PHOTOS BY KAMELLA

Indulge your senses with some of the finest olive oils from Italy and beyond…

Mirabile Extra Vergine – Sicily at Mielżyński (zł.63)

Agia Triada Extra Virgin – Crete at Benedictine Products (zł.36)

Isole e Olena Extra Vergine – Firenze at Enoteka (zł.54)

Eleonas Extra Virgin – Argolida Pelopennese at Nasze Przysmaki (zł.59)

Valdelana Agnus Extra Virgin – Rioja at Winarium (zł.39)

Siro Pacenti Extra Vergine – Toscana at Mielżyński (zł.106)

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Sklep Słoneczny (Żoliborz) ul. Słowackiego 21/23, tel. 022 833-2086 Open Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00 This little shop offers a stock of organic, all-natural cosmetics, from basic to high-end.

sports gear 4F Sport Performance (A6) Blue City Shopping Centre, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, Level +1, tel. 022 3117134, www.4F.com.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Stocks 4F ski equipment and clothing. Burton Shop Adrenalina (A6) Blue city Shopping Centre, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, Level –1, tel. 022 311-7370 www.adrenalinasklep.pl/snowboard Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Stocks a solid collection of Snowboard equipment and fashion from top brands Burton, Anon and Gravis. Go Sport (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 022 541-3811, www.go-sport.pl A huge store with an extensive stock of sports equipment for (nearly) all disciplines. Intersport (various locations) Arkadia, Złote Tarasy and Sadyba Shopping Centres, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 012 444888, ul. Złota 59, ul. Powsińska 31. Stock up on snowboard, biking, tennis and rollerblading gear for all seasons at this massive store. PKS Snowboard Shop (D10) Al. Niepodlegości 121/123, tel. 022 845-0941 www.pksnow.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, Sun 11:00-14:00 Sells a range of snowboarding gear, from boards and bindings to jackets and goggles from cutting-edge brands. Salomon Shop (C12) Galeria Mokotów Shopping Centre ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 022 541 39 85 www.salomonsports.com/pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. The flagship store for the global ski/snowboard equipment brand

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home décor & interior design

id Interior Design (Żoliborz) pl. Kozietulskiego 2A lok.2, mob. 0661-289833, www.idstudio.pl. By appointment. Run by Katja Sadziak, a London-trained designer, this design studio focuses on individual needs for individual clients, for either home or office.

3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 022 651-5644 www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Kartell (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 022 621-7874 www.kartell.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-17:00, Sat 11:00-14:00. Poland’s only flagship store of the awardwinning Kartell design brand. The place to go for bright signature pieces from innovators Phillipe Starck and Maarten van Severen.

Bed and Breakfast (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 838-5381 www.bedandbreakfast.net.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00 Offers a whole range of contemporary classics in interior design. Subtle colours and tasteful forms.

Koło Antiques Market *between ul. Obozowa and ul. Newelska Open Sat-Sun 8:00-14:00. Perfect for the casual browser or Eastern European history buff searching for antiques with a historical twist.

Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 022 636-7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. BOW 2008 “Best Home Decor” Winner. Casa Mia (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 022 621-0519 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00 One of the most stylish stores on ul. Mokotowska. Offers high-quality furnishings and accessories that combine traditional design techniques with a contemporary edge. Cepelia (mulitiple locations) Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, ul. Krucza 23, pl. Konstytucji 5 (D6), ul. Francuska 49 (H4), ul. Chmielna 8, www.cepelia.pl Specialises in Polish artistic handicrafts such as furniture, ceramics, sculpture, painting, jewelry and leatherware, this is the perfect place if you’re looking for traditional souvenirs. Ceramika MM by Maciej Szaciłło www.ceramikamm.com Maciej Szaciłło’s work goes way beyond basic pottery. His primary output is functional art objects such as lamps and sinks, embellished with brilliant glazes, patterns, textures and three-dimensional reliefs. DDR Studio (E6) ul. Mokotowska 31, tel. 022 628-4060 Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00, Sat 12:00-18:00 A showroom and gallery of authentic vintage furnishings from the ‘50s, ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s.

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

>> Sabon (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 838-8883 www.sabon.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Here you’ll find body and skin care products based on Dead Sea minerals. BOW 2008 “Best Cosmetics” Runner-up.

Konarska-Konarski (D4) Design Studio & Concept Store, ul. Chmielna 28B (courtyard), tel. 022 8412846, www.konarska-konarski.com Specializing in creating interior design projects and pieces for individual clients, this studio also offers funky life-size poly resin and fiberglass animals, functional design pieces for home or office, as well as signature Sicilian olive oil, wine and coffee. Kuchniasklep at Blue City (A6) Level -1, tel. 0 801 080-027 or 022 425-3843, www.kuchniasklep.pl. Open daily 10:00-22:00. Filled to the brim with the most exclusive housewares from all over the world – from utensils to ultra-sharp knives, energy-efficient “double-wall” pots and pans and a whole

Terre di Giurfo Belsito Frappato – Sicilia 2007 at Vinarius (zł.65)

Isole e Olena Cepparello – Toscana 2005 at Enoteka (zł.207)

Wine Country

While new-world stars like Australian Shiraz or Chilean Malbec may fill the glasses of most wine lovers nowadays, the old world has just as much to offer and it’s not just a few dusty bottles of French Cabernet. Italian wines are holding their own on the world wine stage and here are a few choice bottles available at your local wineseller in Warsaw… Petirosso d’estate Dolcetto di Dogliani – Romana Carlo 2007 at Winarium (zł.29)

Pallavicini Rubillo Principe Cesanese – Lazio 2007 at Nasze Przysmaki (zł.36)

Tedeschi La Fabriseria DOC Valpolicella Classic Superiore – Veneto 2008 at Mielżyński (zł.112)

8/25/09

Villa Sparina DOC Gavi Cortese – Piemonte 2008 at Mielżyński (zł.72)

Elisabetta Geppetii Pelofino – Maremma Toscana 2008 at Winobranie (zł.49)

Isole e Olena Collezione de Marchi Chardonnay – Toscana 2007 at Enoteka (zł.132)

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SHOPS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l If you’re looking for top-quality silverware, you will certainly find it here – from hand crafted cutlery to engraved baby rattles.

Magazyn Praga (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31 at Koneser. www.magazynpraga.pl Open Tues-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-16:00 Inside this former vodka distillery is a seething cauldron of artistic endeavour. Design boutique Magazyn Praga sells everything from inflatable chandeliers to porcelain Wellington boots.

Scandinavian Living (D3) al. Piłsudskiego 21, Konstancin Jeziorna, tel. 022 754-6312, www.scandinavianliving.pl Open Tue. & Thur. 12:00-20:00; Wed. & Fri 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. The shop offers a ‘Scandinavian way of life’, with imported furniture, cushions, lamps, tableware and even clothes. Bright, colourful and homey.

Maison Creative (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 022 622-3864 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00 This gorgeous boutique features furnishings that boast luxury and class. From tasteful gilded mirrors, sparkling chandeliers and posh period lounges, Maison Creative is just the place to give a home a sumptuous polish.

Spacestation (Żoliborz) Citadel at ul. Czujna, tel. 604 456 104, www.spacestation.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 Stepping into Spacestation is actually very much like setting foot on Mars. Installed under the cavernous arches of an old armoury, this playful, funky furniture showroom is all about ultra-bright colours and forms that confound expectations.

Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 022 629-0511, www.mokotowska71.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available.

Zieliński (C4) pl. Grzybowski 10 lok. 4, tel. 022 620-1621, www.zielinski.waw.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:0018:00. The shop is pokey but it is filled to the brim with Dutch ovens, cast iron skillets, log holders, fireplace screens and garden furniture.

Oficyna Gallery Alessi (D5) ul. Wspólna 50, tel. 022 409-8445, www.oficyna.biz Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 The largest selection of Alessi products in Warsaw. This Italian design house has made whimsical, unique design objects their trademark.

Zoom (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 022 816-2065, www.zoom.waw.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00. This vast store/gallery/atelier located near the Sobieski Hotel is really kind of a design kingdom, from contemporary classics to funky.

Recamiere (D5) ul. Wilcza 23, tel. 022 629-5085, www.recamiere.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 Brainchild of interior designers Ewa Breymeyer and Rafał Darski. Carries designer pieces from around the world and offers professional decorating services for home or business. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 817-1339, www.redonion.pl Red Onion sells furniture, lamps, ceramics and glasswares, sourced from all over the world. Now Red Onion has launched a new internet shopping site to make it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget. BOW 2008 “Best Accessories” Runner-up. Robbe & Berking (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 10, tel. 022 627-1987. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

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kids’ stuff Bonpoint (D4) ul. Ordynacka 11. This little shop is devoted to beautiful quality clothing and accessories for little ones. Chicco (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall, Arkadia, www.chicco.pl Internationallyrecognised as a chain that provides safe, educational and fun products for little ones such as cosmetics, clothes and toys, as well as accessories for pregnant women. Great for birthday presents.

Confetti (A6) Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, level 0, tel. 022 311-7875. This chic little boutique for kids is located just a few feet from Adler

Restaurant. It’s filled to the brim with gorgeous clothes, toys and accessories for newborns all the way up to 16. The only place in Warsaw to stock a broad range of DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, Kenzo, Petit Bateau and other designer brands for kids. Great for gifts.

KAMELLA

>> array of devices to transform a basic kitchen into a star. Also stocks gourmet deli products, condiments, teas and spices.

Fabryka Miśków at Smyk (D4) ul. Krucza 5, tel. 022 551-4300; Arkadia, www.fabrykamisków.com.pl In these magical shops, kids can customdesign their own lovely plush teddy bears. Absolutely the best gift idea – ever. Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 022 839-7560, www.kalimba.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-21:00. Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter, cafe and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids. Lullaby (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 022 839 1009; ul. Grzybowska 2, #5 From cashmere-cotton sweaters and blankets to educational toys and bilingual books, this eco-friendly shop is just the place to get stylish baby-gear. Mimbla (E6) ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 022 629 3065, Arkadia This children’s clothing and bookstore offers quality essentials for your little prince or princess. And for the eco-minded parents, they even sell reusable organic nappies. Mothercare (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Arkadia, Reduta, Wola Park, Klif www.mothercare.com A widely recognised brand associated with moms, babies and kids. They offer a lot of decent maternity clothing and colourful items for

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* updates! kids, including pushchairs, car seats, clothing, toys and gifts. Niebieskie Migdały (E6) ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 022 629-1192, www.niebieskiemigdaly.com Absolutely amazing stuff for a child’s bedroom, ranging from cribs to lamps; from teddy bears to framed pictures. Petit Patapon at Złote Tarasy (C4) www.petitpatapon.com This shop offers beautifully gentle clothes for babies and toddlers. The collections are designed by a talented mother of five, Noelle Tutenuit. SMYK (D4) ul. Krucza 50 (corner of al. Jerozolimskie), tel. 022 551-4300; there are also numerous other stores, namely in all of Warsaw’s shopping malls. This chain harkens back to the Communist times in Poland, and although there is a wide selection of clothing and toys for kids.

food & drink *

Benedictine Products (D6) ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 022 629-0009, www.benedicite.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat 8:00-16:00 Additional locations: Al. KEN 83, ul. Grochowska 56, Al. Jana Pawła II 43A/35. Opened by Benedictine monasteries, this gem of a shop sells a plethora of natural and 100% organic home-made goodies like baked bread, fresh herbal soap and shampoo, canned fruits, hebral teas from potpourris of dried jasmine and rosebuds, cured meats, herbs and farmfresh eggs. New shop on ul. Racławicka 27 opening soon. Batida (multiple locations) *ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022 8264474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18 www.batida.com.pl Open daily 09:00-21:00. A cafe, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles. Check out their new P3K location, giving a fresh alternative to Szpilka and Szparka. $ Blikle Delikatesy (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 022 826-4568, www.blikle.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Traditional Polish products (such as smoked meat and honey) and imported gourmet goods make this legendary delicatessen a pantry staple. Centrum Wina wine bar and shop (Mokotów) ul. Puławska 336, tel. 022 566-3481

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…TILL YOU DROP ww.centrumwina.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0023:00, lunch 13:00-16:00. With more than 700 kinds of wine to choose from, they organise interesting wine-tasting workshops, meetings and seminars for wine amateurs.

Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal.

Chopin Luxury (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222-0103, mob. 0600-064-327 www.polmos-siedlce.com.pl Dating back to 1896, the Polmos Siedlce distillery is renowned for its wide variety of vodka, liqueurs and creams.

Kasia Witak Homemade Cakes tel.0505-416-007. Wonderful cookies, muffins, cakes and pies available by special order.

C.K. Oboźnia Wine Lounge (E3) ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 100, tel. 022 826-8317. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. The Austrian owner is on hand to recommend the perfect wine for your equally perfect food.

* Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 022 831-3443. Open MonSat 12:00-midnight, Sun 13:00-17:00 Reminiscent of a small Tuscan village with a rustic decor, Enoteka tilts its scale to the minimalist side, while still serving delicious and filling dishes. It’s even got a few goodsized private dining rooms tucked away for more intimate gatherings. This spacious rustic restaurant in the old town area also sports a fine selection of wines you can take home. $$ George Ballantine’s (D5, E8) ul. Krucza 47a, tel. 022 625-4832; ul. Puławska 22, tel. 022 542-8622. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An impressive selection of alcohols from all over Europe, Africa, the Americas, Australia and Japan. Jung & Lecker (multiple locations) ul. Rudnickiego 10 lok. 11 (Żoliborz), tel. 022 866-6749; ul. Emilii Plater 14 (C5), www.prawdziwewina.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This unique shop specialises in German wines which are sourced directly from 15 wineries in the Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. La Cave de Philippe de Givenchy (E5) ul. Wilcza 28, Open daily 11:00-20:00 A marvellous selection of organic and biodynamic wines custom-selected by the owner in person. Every bottle presents a new delightful and robust flavour that will tickle your tastebuds without breaking the bank. Prices range from zł.25 to zł.89. La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222-0495, www.winnica.pl, Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00.

Krakowski Kredens (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 22, www.almamarket.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. This particular pantry (kredens) stocked with regional fare from Kraków and the Małopolska region, including a plentiful charcuterie section, horseradish sauce, jams, honey and pickles. KOM (C3) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 022 338-6353, www.komunikat.net Open daily 12:00-24:00. Purchase a fine wine or partake in KOM’s wine evenings, with knowledgeable speakers, specialised menus and fantastic wines. With the focus firmly on a relaxed atmosphere, you don’t have to be a wine expert to appreciate these evenings. Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 022 745-1071, www.lechocolat.pl Open Mon-Fri10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00 Whether it’s classic Amedei, Domori, and Valrhona bars or playful bonbons in funky shapes, you’re bound to find some delicious chocolate, be it Belgian, Swiss or Austrian. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 636-8709. Excellent spread of fine wines from around the world to enjoy in-house or at home. Great location in a chic post-industrial space. BOW 2008 “Best Wine Bar” Winner. M&P Exclusive Wines and Spirits (multiple locations) ul. Pańska 81/83, tel. 022 652 85 22, ul. Warowna 1, ul. Mielczarskiego 7 www.wina-mp.pl With three locations in Warsaw and three on the outskirts, M&P has a large selection of fine wines and other alcoholic beverages for reasonable prices.

Nasze Przysmaki (A1) ul. Felińskiego 12, tel. 022 839-4219 www.naszeprzysmaki.pl. This little shop is a treasure store of traditional goodies from Hungary and other parts of Europe. Scrumptious deli meats, smoked fish, handmade cheeses, condiments, wines and

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Strolling the Neighbourhood Make the most of summer’s last days with a stroll through picturesque Konstancin ne straight road and less than O 20km from Warsaw is KonstancinJeziorna, a picturesque getaway flanked by the Chojnów and Kabaty forests. The town is also recalled for its healthy micro-climate and spa status. So surrender the city centre and head to the Stara Papiernia (Old Papermill) at ul. Wojska Polskiego 3. This XIX-Century mill was damaged in a fire in 1984 and has been rebuilt as a diverse shopping area and is now the epicentre of Konstancin. But don’t stop here. Delve in to the pine wood and villa-lined backstreets to discover some of the best relaxation, shopping and chowing down in one of Warsaw’s most elegant suburbs…

Pomidoro

For the pantry, the ‘gourmet’ row of shops outside the Stara Papiernia is a must if you are looking to stock up on an impressive range of imported and traditional polish delicacies. Head for Jan Piekarz (tel. 022 702-8615) for breads and airy melt-in-your-mouth croissants. Then call in next door to U Piotra (tel. 022 702-8631) for a treat of a grocery store with supreme quality and great presentation. Satisfy your nostalgia for items from around the globe at Kuchnia Świat (tel. 022 702-8720).

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Stara Papiernia Stara Papiernia is full of goodies, starting from the newly re-opened Coco Caffe (tel. 502 500222), which serves an extensive range of coffees, chocolates, smoothies and light meals in an African-themed surrounding. With a children’s play centre next door (www.magicworld.pl) there’s no excuse not to grab a little reading material from the American Bookstore downstairs (tel. 022 7028633) and enjoy a quiet cup of something indulgent. If you would rather people watch on an outdoor terrace head for Blikle (tel. 022 702-8796) and sneak in a sweet and doughy pączek. As a more substantial option, Pomidoro (tel. 022 702-8777) dominates the food scene with a new Italian menu, tried and tested and very much approved. See the full review of Pomidoro on page 01.

Coco Caffe

INSIDE STARA PAPIERNIA: ART, BOOKS, SWEETS…

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Konstancin

TEXT BY HANNAH SKAANILD AND KATE BROWNSEY PHOTOS BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

Galeria Steel Forest

La Canela

Galeria Konstancin The interior of the Stara Papiernia itself provides a perfect canvas to showcase some of the work for sale in the galleries. Our favourites are Galeria Steel Forest (tel. 022 702-8606) on the first floor for its fun and flowery window display and La Canela (tel. 0607 444-116) on the ground floor where the minimalist pallette of silver and white promises to bring tranquillity to the home. Just down the road from Stara Papiernia, Scandinavian Living at Al. Piłsudskiego 21 (tel. 0 22 754-6312) is a haven for traditional and modern Scandinavian design. Further down the road is Galeria Konstancin at ul. Wojewódzka 18 (tel. 022 717-2317) to buy traditional Polish handicrafts and presents, including pottery, glassware and jewellery.

Kołomyja

For a bit of R&R, head to the beautiful Zdrojowy Park and inhale the benefits of the saltwater inhalation system (tężnia solankowa). For a small fee you can step inside the twig structure and inhale the brine vapours which are meant to improve your respiratory system. If you prefer more sophisticated salon therapies, head back to Stara Papiernia and indulge at the Dr Irena Eris spa (tel. 022 7028668) to reinvigorate your body with a mineral cocktail.

Stroll down Al. Piłsudskiego and have a peek in the Ludwik Buchanan bakery at no. 34. (tel. 022 756-3113) for an impressive display of items naughty but nice. The nutty caramel square is heavenly. Alternately, head further in to the woods to Kołomyja at ul. Od Lasu 23 (tel. 022 754-0594) for hearty traditional Polish fare. First build up an appetite on the many surrounding bicycle or walking trails, then indulge. The animated surroundings and children’s play areas make it an ideal family lunch spot.

Zdrojowy Park

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SHOPS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Cretan olive oil makes this shop an absolute Insider favourite for authentic, flavourful foods.

Nespresso (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 47, tel. 022 826-0184 or 0800-515-253, www.nespresso.com Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. Combines the visual effect of a contemporary art display with the furnishings of a designer hotel and sells chic Nespresso accessories. Słodki… Słony… (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 022 622-4934 Open daily 11:00-last guest. The place to go for the best cakes, pies and tortes in the city. Just the thing for a discerning sweet tooth. From pączki to Pavlovas, this is heaven. Magda Gessler’s edible “jewellery” line features handmade Belgian chocolates, consisting of whimsical flavors, such as wasabi and ginger. Vinarius (E2) *ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 022 828-8861 www.vinarius.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00 This wine bar has an adjoined wine shop filled top to bottom with premium wines across a wide range of price points for sipping on the spot or to take home.

ul. Chmielna 132/134, tel. 022 656-2930 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 12:00-15:00 A chic wine store that offers a huge selection of top wines – from Italy’s exceptional vintage Barolo Roche dei Manzoni (1997) to Austria’s distinguished Hugel Traminer (1999). Knowledgeable, if somewhat snooty staff. Wedel (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 022 830-5757 Open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-20:00 Other locations: Arkadia, Promenada, Złote Tarasy, Marina Mokotów, InterContinental Hotel and Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1. Sip their classic hot chocolate, indulge in yummy bonbons or personalize their signature wafer torte with bespoke inscriptions.

bookshops American Bookstore (multiple locations) ul. Nowy Świat 61, tel. 022 827-4852, ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 022 234-5637. Shopping centres: Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall, Arkadia, Blue City. Konstancin-Jeziorna: Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 022 702-8633 www.americanbookstore.pl Stocks all the latest titles in English-language literature, from highbrow lit to blockbusters.

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

Angielski Antykwariat/English Books (E3) University Library (BUW), ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 022 552-7417, www.z2reki.pl This second-hand bookshop has a warm, cozy atmosphere and it is full of books in English.

Vom Fass at Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 0513 102-375 This shop on the lower level of the Blue City shopping centre is a treasurehouse of natural delights for the palate. From the highest quality olive oils and balsamic vinegars gently flavoured with an array of aromas to fine liqueurs from all over the world and even natural cosmetics. Winarium (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 3, tel. 022 692-0865, www.winarium.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00 Run by former actor Marek Kondrat and son, Winarium boasts six locations in Poland and focuses on one passion: wine. Offers carefully selected wines from all over the world at affordable prices. Winobranie (multiple locations) ul. Mokotowska 58, tel. 022 629-8022

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As You Like It (multiple locations) University Library (BUW), ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 022 826-6455; ul. Emilii Plater 4, tel. 022 625-2830 www.tmc.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00. A treasurehouse of gift-worthy books and albums: from Herb Ritts’ larger-than-life photography collections to Phaidon’s Wallpaper guides. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31. te. 022 826-3294. Open MonThurs 10:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. A bookshop-cum-teahouse with a brilliant ambiance and a wide array of great books in Polish and smaller selection of English-language books and albums. Empik (multiple locations) ul. Marszałkowska 116/122 (Junior Mega), ul. Nowy Świat 15/17, tel. 022 627-0650 and shopping centres throughout Warsaw. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-20:00. www.empik.com.

The biggest media chain in Poland features its own foreign-literature section with a range of important titles from past and present. Numery Litery (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 022 622-0560 www.numerylitery.pl Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. Another cafe and bookshop in one featuring books, albums, magazines and games for both kids and adults.

shopping malls Arkadia (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre ul. Puławska 42E, tel. 022 296-5022, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 022 531-4500, www.klif.pl Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Panorama (G10) al. Witosa 31, tel. 022 640-1400. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-19:00 Sadyba Best Mall (H11) ul. Powsińska 31, www.sadyba.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, www.chtargowek.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 022 533-4000, www.wolapark.com Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

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EATING OUT THIS MONTH:

Restaurants

16 updates! *

SECTIONS

RATINGS

Cafés & Tea Rooms African American & Tex-Mex Asian & Indian Austrian & German Balkan & Russian European & International French Fusion

The following categories are a rough indication of how much two main courses and an average bottle of wine will cost.

p. 33 p. 41 p. 41 p. 42 p. 44 p. 45 p. 45 p. 50 p. 51

Greek & Middle Eastern

p. 53

Italian

p. 53

Japanese & Sushi

p. 57

Jewish

p.60

Latin

p.60

Polish

p. 38

Seafood

p.60

Veggie/non-smoking

p.60

$ $$ $$$ $$$$

(A1) map location

under zł.100 zł.100-200 zł.200-350 zł.350 and up

ideal for business meetings take a date non smoking area child friendly vegetarian friendly delivery breakfast menu outdoor area BOW 2008 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

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Insider’s Pick

(of the month):

HOT FIND

Oregano (Białołęka) ul. Bohaterów 14 tel. 022 425-5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl Open Mon-Thur, Sun 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat-12:00-23:00.

KAMELLA

“And a divine orecchiete dish that was pure joy for the eyes and palate…”

s my date and I stepped out of the cab, I had the impression that we had travelled to another country, not just a mere Warsaw suburb. We took a stroll through the art-filled Tuscan-inspired Tuscan-inspired resto where the aromas and sounds signalled that we were in for a treat. Each dish we had that day was just as rich in taste as its description on the Oregano menu. We started off with the Baked Goat Cheese appetizer: grilled eggplant on a crustini covered with black grapes, roasted with thyme and freshly ground pepper served alongside baked mature goat cheese (zł.28), perfectly matched with a berry-caramel-maple-accented Chilean Reserva Carmenere (zł.75 for the bottle). Next, we plunged our spoons into the ‘Delicate Shrimp Soup’: king shrimp with avocados, tomatoes, and lemongrass, in a seafood broth (zł.20). And a divine orecchiete dish that was pure joy for the eyes and palate. The main dish was called “Sun Salutation.” It had actually won Oregano’s head Chef, Anna Martynowska, the Chef Discovery of the Year 2008 award from Poland’s culinary mag Kuchnia. Lamb chops were decorated with fresh herbs on an orange and date sauce, accompanied by little couscous boats stuffed with vegetables and dates stuffed with lamb (zł.59). Not your average plate of lamb chops, let me tell you. I almost felt guilty as I took my fork and began tearing the masterpiece apart, but that quickly passed as I occupied myself with taking in all of the flavors. Absolutely mouth-watering. The lamb was simply perfect and even my so-called vegetarian accomplice couldn’t get enough of it. To help it all digest, we washed our tour de force down with a Santa Carolina reserve merlot from Chile. Magnifico. Since there seems to magically always be room for dessert, no matter how full one can be, we ended our evening heavenly by trying the Dequase fig meringue on a dollop of Italian mascarpone cheese and dark chocolate, accompanied by brandy filled figs (zł.19). Oregano may be a bit far out, but it’s definitely worth the trip. Very highly recommended! (RP) Note: To get to the restaurant and back, take the 152 bus that stops right at Warszawa Płudy or designated drivers can head to Białołęka Dworska, enter from ul. Klasyków. >>

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INDEX

Centrum Absynt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Adler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Akashia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Ale Gloria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Amigos American Steakhouse. . . . . . . . . . . 41 Angelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Antrakt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Arsenał. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 The Art of Caviar and Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Art Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Atrio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Baccara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Bacio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Bar a Boo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Bar Balbinka . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Barista Espresso . . . . . . . . 33 Bastylia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Batida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Besuto Sushi Bar . . . . . . . . 57 BilyKonicek Cafe. . . . . . . . . 33 Bistro Babooshka . . . . . . . 45 Bistro de Paris . . . . . . . . . . 50 Blikle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Blues Bar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Bookhousecafe . . . . . . . . . 33 Bordo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Borpince . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Brasserie Chez Lautrec . . . 50 Browarmia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Bugatti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Bukieteria Roma . . . . . . . . 56 C.K. Oberża. . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cafe 6/12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Baobab . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Cafe Bristol . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Casablanca . . . . . . . . 34

Café l’Europe . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cafe Imperial . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Kredens . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cafe Lente. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Okna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Pro Arte. . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Próżna. . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Szuflada . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Vincent . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Vogue . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Caffe Balgera . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Caffe Milano . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Caffetino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Canton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Cava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cesarski Pałac . . . . . . . . . . 42 Conquistador . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Champions Sports Bar . . . 41 Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Chłodna 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Chłopskie Jadło . . . . . . . . . 38 Choda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Coffee Heaven . . . . . . . . . . 34 Coffee Karma . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Coffee Point . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Costa Coffee . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Cwaniak Warszawski. . . . . 38 Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia. . . . 35 Czekoladziarnia Amor. . . . 35 Czuły Barbarzyńca . . . . . . . 35 Dekanta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Deco Kredens. . . . . . . . . . . 46 Delicja Polska. . . . . . . . . . . 38 Der Elephant. . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Dyspensa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Dżonka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 El Popo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Essence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

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Essencia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Five . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Folk Gospoda . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Frida. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Fusion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Galeria Bali . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Gar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Ginger. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie . . 40 Green Coffee. . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Hana Sushi Jasna. . . . . . . . 57 Hard Rock Café. . . . . . . . . . 42 Herezja. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Home Africa Bar . . . . . . . . . 41 Il Sole. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 In Vino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Inaba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 India Curry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Inn Under the Red Hog. . . 40 Izumi Sake . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Izumi Sushi. . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Jajo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Jazz Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Jazz Bistro Espresso . . . . . 36 Jazz Point Bistro . . . . . . . . . 58 Kafka Cafe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Kanton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Kasier. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Kawka Bar Kawowy . . . . . . 36 Kiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Kolonia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 KOM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Korkociąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Kuchnia Kwai . . . . . . . . . . . 43 La Cantina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 La Fiesta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 La Passion du Vin . . . . . . . 46 La Petite. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Latino Brasserie. . . . . . . . . 60

Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant . . . . 43 Likus Concept . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Lila Weneda . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Literacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Lokanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Maguro Sushi. . . . . . . . . . . 58 Maharaja Thai. . . . . . . . . . . 43 Mała Gruzja . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Mała Serbia . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Marconi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Mar Y Sol. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Mela Verde . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Menora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 The Mexican . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Meza Restaurant . . . . . . . . 51 Michel Moran . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Mielżyński Wine Bar . . . . . 47 Między Nami Cafe . . . . . . . 37 Mille Gusti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Mirador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Moliera 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Nippon-Kan. . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Nori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Nowa La Boheme . . . . . . . 40 Numery Litery . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Nu Jazz Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Ogrody Foksal . . . . . . . . . . 40 Ogrodowa Cafe. . . . . . . . . . 37 The Olive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Orange. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Orchidea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 The Oriental . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Osteria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Palma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Papaya. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Parmizzano’s . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Pekin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Pędzący Królik . . . . . . . . . . 37

Piccolo Bacio . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Pizzeria na Barskiej . . . . . . 56 Pod Gigantami . . . . . . . . . . 40 Poezja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Polskie Smaki. . . . . . . . . . . 40 Porta 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Pret-a-café. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Prowansja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Przegryź . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Qchnia Artystyczna . . . . . . 47 Radio Café. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Red Orange. . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Restauracja Stara Szafa . . 41 Restauracja Warszawska . 41 Restaurant 99. . . . . . . . . . . 50 Restaurant Strauss . . . . . . 50 Rialto’s Restaurant. . . . . . . 41 Rodeo Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Roma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 R20 Rozbrat 20 . . . . . . . . . 47 Rozdroże . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Sadhu Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Sakana Sushi Bar . . . . . . . 59 Same Fusy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 San Lorenzo . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Sense. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Sketch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Skorupka Suhi Bar. . . . . . . 59 Słodki… Słony . . . . . . . . . . 38 So-An Sushi Club. . . . . . . . 59 Sofa Clubistro. . . . . . . . . . . 50 Someplace Else . . . . . . . . . 42 Smaki Warszawy . . . . . . . . 41 St. Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Starbucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Studio Buffo . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Sushi 77. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Sushi Teatr . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Sushi Zushi. . . . . . . . . . . . . 59

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INDEX Sunanta Thai . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Suparom Thai. . . . . . . . . . . 44 T.G.I. Friday’s . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Tam Tam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Tapa y Toro . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Tapas Bar Casa To Tu. . . . . 53 Taqueria Mexicana. . . . . . . 53 Tawerna Tabaka . . . . . . . . . 53 Tien-Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Tiffany’s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Tok Cafe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Tokio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Tomo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 U Kucharzy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 U Szwejka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Uczta Ormiańska . . . . . . . . 53 Venezia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Vespa Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Villa Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Vinoteka La Bodega . . . . . 50 W Biegu Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Warsaw Tortilla Factory . . . 53 Wedel Chocolate Parlour . 38 Wook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 You & Me Bar . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Zadra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Zen Jazz Bistro . . . . . . . . . . 50

Old Town – Stare Miasto Bazyliszek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Bliss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Enoteka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Fret@Porter. . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Freta 33 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Gospoda pod Kogutem . . 40 Honoratka. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka. . 46 La Rotisserie . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Maestria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Nomia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Pierogarnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Podwale Piwna Kompania . . . . . . 40 Restauracja Staromiejska. . . . . . . . . . 41 To Lubię. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 U Fukiera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Vinarius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Mokotów Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Balgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Banja Luka . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Belvedere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Biosfeera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Blue Cactus. . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Coffee Heaven . . . . . . . . . . 34 Dziki Ryż . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Efes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Esencja Smaku . . . . . . . . . . 51 Flik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Galeon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

cafés & tea rooms Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 827-6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Cosy and offers as much for the soul as it does for the body.

Bar Kawowy Ermitage ul. Myśliwiecka 1, tel. 022 625-5680. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Tucked away in a little pre-war cottage, this place offers tasty żurek soup and other Polish heart fare at unbeatable prices. $

Herba Thea . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Jeff’s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Karczma Słupska. . . . . . . . 40 Mood Cafe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Nei Flori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Obsessja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Pappa Grappa. . . . . . . . . . . 55 Papu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Portucale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Q-Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Restauracja “Różana”. . . . 40 Restauracja “Tradycja”. . . 40 Rogatka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Roma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Samira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Tbilsi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Vapiano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Venti Tre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Villa Rossini. . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 W Biegu Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Wedel Chocolate Parlour . 38 Zielnik Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Żużu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Ochota Filtry Cafe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Galearnia The 2 of Us . . . . 35 Grand Kredens. . . . . . . . . . 40 Hong Kong House . . . . . . . 43 Kolonia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Meltemi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Non Solo Pizza . . . . . . . . . . 55 Prima Vera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Va Bene Ristorante . . . . . . 56 Vera Italia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

Saska Kępa & Praga Boathouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cafe Melon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cafe Rue de Paris. . . . . . . . 34 DeCoteria Café . . . . . . . . . . 35 Dom Polski . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Efes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Fabryka Trzciny. . . . . . . . . . 46 Kępa Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 La Strada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Le Cedre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Łysy Pingwin . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Passe Partout . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Pasta Café. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Porto Praga . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Santorini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Tekeda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Yoko Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59

Wilanów & Ursynów Castello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Centrum Wina . . . . . . . . . . 46 China Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Ganesh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

cakes and nibbles. Check out their new P3K location, giving a fresh alternative to Szpilka and Szparka. $ BilyKonicek Cafe (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 0696-490-846. Open daily 9:00-21:00 Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and home-baked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite to eat on a rainy day. $

The Barista Espresso Bar & Bakery (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Excellent soy-milk lattes, real chocolate cake (with frosting!) and Fairtrade coffee.$

Blues Bar ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 022 628-4757, www.bluesbar.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last customer. During the winter, it’s a funky little unerground tavern. Come spring, it’s the perfect place to grab a cold beer, eat some BBQ and ease into summer. $

Żoliborz Blikle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Coffee Heaven . . . . . . . . . . 34 Hana Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Honey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Kalimba. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Spotkanie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Wedel Chocolate Parlour . 38 Zaułek Smaków – Winiaria Portius . . . . . . . 50

Outskirts Gospoda Kampinówka. . . 40 Karczma na Piwnej . . . . . . 40 Stajnia Chojnów/ Le Carrousel . . . . . . . . . . 50 Willa Borówka. . . . . . . . . . . 51 Złoty Strug Inn and Restaurant . . . . 41

Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 022 826-8559. Open daily 7:30-22:00. Located smack in the center of town, the high ceilings and pleasant atmosphere make this bookshopcum-coffee shop an easy Insider favourite. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea. Hosts art shows, poetry readings and other cultural events. $

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 022 828-6325, www.blikle.pl All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. The café has its history, portrayed in a time line of black & white photos displayed on the walls. Breakfast sets from zł.26. $$

Batida (multiple locations) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022 8264474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18 www.batida.com.pl Open daily 09:00-21:00. A cafe, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent

Giancarlo Ristorante . . . . . 55 Le Regal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Restauracja Staroświecka. 41 Rimini Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Rubikon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Sapori d’Italia. . . . . . . . . . . 56 Sushi 77. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 TUTU Music Bar . . . . . . . . . 38 Va Bene Ristorante . . . . . . 56 Villa Nuova . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Zorba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Bordo (D4) ul. Chmielna 34, tel. 022 826-0171; ul. Nowy Świat 5, tel. 022 622-0068, www.bordo.com.pl Open Mon-Thur 10:0022:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00 Bordo’s a comfortable spot and it calls out for comfort food, pizza, pasta or even a salad. Casual, fun and affordable first-date spot or a place to meet up with a big group of friends over good old trattoria classics. Review of new Bordo location coming soon. $ Bugatti (B6) ul. Tarczyńska 11, tel. 022 823-3999. Open daily 10:00-22:00. Squint, and you could convince yourself it’s a neighbourhood café in >>

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Italy. The ambience and reputation has earned it a following among locals and expats. $ Cafe 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 622-5333, www.612.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Try the great teas and vitamin drinks that are packed with a punch, all aiming at keeping you healthy and balanced. Being healthy has never tasted so good – if you can ignore the fug of cigarette smoke that permeates the air. $ BOW 2008 “Best Cafe” Winner. Cafe Bristol (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 022 551-1828. Open daily 08:00-20:00. Breakfast served all day from 08:00. Light, airy, warm and serene. The desserts are decadent even if the service is a bit dated. $ BOW 2008 “Best Desserts” Runner-up. Cafe Casablanca (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, tel. 022 8281447, www.casablanca.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-01:00, Sat & Sun 10:00-24:00. Settle in with your coffee and surf on the net. $ Café Imperial (E5) ul. Prusa 2 (the Sheraton Hotel), tel. 022 6576100. All day breakfast: Mon-Fri 07:00-22:00, Sat & Sun 10:00-21:00. The café is chic and pleasant, and serves a good cup of coffee, but the breakfast is not recommended. Enjoy the ambience as you linger over a newspaper. $$ Café Lente (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 022 828-4034, www.lente.waw.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-22:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-22:00 Fresh, traditional ingredients make these salads and sandwiches a truly invigorating café experience at quite good value. $ Cafe Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1 Open daily 9:00-19:00 This chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display. Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s most brilliant young photographers are on sale. $

Café Okna Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 022 628-1271 Open daily 11:00-22:00 or until last guest Tucked in the corner of Ujazdowski castle, the little cafe draws an artsy crowd of die-hard smokers late into the night. $

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Café Pro Arte (C1) ul. Rynek Nowego Miasta 21/23, tel. 022 635-6797. Open daily 14:00-22:00. Should you happen to be pottering around the Old Town and suddenly become overwhelmed by summer heat and the tourist throngs, you could do far worse than head over to Café Pro Arte. The food isn’t great but you can grab a beer or enjoy a bottle of wine. $ Cafe Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 022 620-3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Tues-Sat 10:0023:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. This cozy café is located on a charmingly run-down street of pre-war Warsaw. Simple and chic, it’s the perfect spot for one of the best cups of coffee in the city, home-made desserts and sandwiches, house wine and beer any time of day or night. $$ Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 022 617-8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-21:00. A favourite Rendez-vous spot for all the French-speaking folk dwelling the area. $ Café Szuflada (D4) ul. Bracka 3, tel. 022 510 252 856. Open daily 11:00-last guest. The desserts are definitely worth a try for all those with a sweet tooth. $ Cafe Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 828-0115 Open daily 7:00-21:00 A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from savory croissants stuffed with chocolate and fruits fillings, to delicate brioches and mind-numbing delicious almond croissants, mini-quiches with bacon, salmon or leek, and tasty “baguette-wiches.” $$ Cafe Vogue (B5) ul. Złota 7/9, tel. 022 827-6601, www.cafekredensvogue.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 14:00-last guest. Situated right in the heart of Warsaw, Cafe Vogue is a place where freedom meets elegance: enjoy a late breakfast accompanied by romantic lounge music, or browse through some cult comics while lingering over a salad or tortilla. $$ Caffé Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 022 629-0189. Open Mon-Sat 08:00-last guest; Sun 10:00last guest, www.balgera.pl The breakfast menu here is simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long. $

Caffe Milano (D6) ul. Koszykowa 34/50, mob. 0506-937-363. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-18:00 Just a stone’s throw from pl. Konstytucji, this café offers typical café fare. One major feature is the entire non-smoking room. $ Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 022 624-0196. Open 08:00-22:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey – tasty desserts and a very wide range of healthy salads. $ Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 022 826-6427, mob. 0603-952-363. Open daily 09:00-24:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.cava.pl Providing stiff competition for all the other cafés in the area, Cava offers a wide selection of coffees including the premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. $$ Chłodna “25” (B3) ul. Żelazna 75a/Chłodna 25, tel. 022 620-2413, www.chlodna25.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Located in the Wola district, the last bastion of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła, Chłodna 25 is a fabulous combination of café and club. Sip on a Cappuccino and read a good book, or slip downstairs and dance till the wee hours. Friendly, laid-back and as civilised as an artist’s loft: a firm Insider favourite. $ Choda (D4) ul. Chmielna 11, tel. 0507-247-853. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 11:0001:00. A unique atmosphere created by small tables and framed pictures adorning the walls, you will find Choda full most of the time. $ Coffee Heaven (multiple locations) www.coffeeheaven.pl This Polish self-branded coffee shop chain provides all the comfy furnishings, premium coffee and simple treats that makes lounging with a book or chatting with friends a pleasure all throughout the year. Easy to find thanks to various locations through the city and most shopping centres. $ Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 022 875-8709,

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www.coffeekarma.pl Open Mon-Fri 07:3022:00, Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 10:30-22:00. A very laid-back café, without the string of poseurs occupying other cafés in the center. Mostly friendly staff and excellent coffee. $ Coffee Point (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11, mob. 0501-100-805, www.coffeepoint.pl Open daily 08:00-22:00. Conveniently situated on your way to Old Town, this café offers a selection of coffees, hot chocolates and international newspapers.$

trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit anytime of day. $$ Czekoladziarnia Amor (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 17, tel. 022 825-0036, www.czekoladziarniaamor.pl Open Sun-Mon 12:00-21:00, Tues-Thurs 10:00-21:00, Fri 10:0022:00, Sat 11:00-22:00. While the name suggests sweet, decadent desserts, the Babuni cheesecake and the lemon tart are quite mediocre. As far as the pasta goes, don’t expect al dente noodles. $

Filtry Cafe (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl, Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat 10:00-21:00 Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers. $

Flora Caffe Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232-642. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet treats and is also open in chillier weather. $

Costa Coffee (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 022 551-5448, www.costacoffee.pl Open Mon-Thur 07:3022:00; Fri 07:30-22:30; Sat 08:00-22:30; Sun 08:00-22:00. The cafe’s motto seems to be ‘friendly elegance meets eco-concern’. $

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 022 826-3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl Open Mon-Thur 10:00-22:00; Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A very charming bookstore and a café in one. $ BOW 2008 “Best Cafe” Runner-up

Galearnia The 2 of Us (A7) ul. Wawelska 28a, tel. 022 825-0355, www.undergroundsc.eu Open Tues-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. An arsty place that combines a gallery, gift shop and coffee shop all in one. $

Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584-7101. Open daily 07:00-last guest. With a sumptuously-decorated interior – think elegant, cream-coloured and flouncy French queen’s private chambers – and beautifully-

DeCoteria Café (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 16, tel. 0605-887-713. Open daily 11:00-last guest. This little restaurant-café-bar has a homely feel and a commitment to well-loved, traditional Polish dishes from soups to desserts. $$

Green Coffee (multiple locations) ul. Marszałkowska 84/92, tel. 022 629-8373, ul. Bracka 16; Złote Tarasy; ul. Grzybowska 63; ul. Piękna 18; ul. Złota 59. With many central locations, Green Coffee has everything for your caffeine and croissant fix.$

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Herba Thea (C8) ul. Bruna 20, tel. 022 825-8814, www.herbathea.waw.pl Open daily 13:00-22:00 Just a 5 minute walk from Pole Mokotowskie, off of al. Niepodległości, this cosy teahouse houses a gallery and hosts live music and workshops on the weekends. $ In Vino Cafe and Winebar (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 022 827-2970. Open daily noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. If you’re all for the motto “wine as a way of life,” In Vino is just the place. Make sure to book a table as this tiny place can fill up quick. $$

Instytut Café Al. Ujazdowskie 6, tel. 0606 426-940, www.instytut-teatralny.pl. Open daily 10:0021:00. This café doesn’t offer much beside a fine selection of gourmet teas and great pies, so don’t come too hungry. Great ambiance. $ Jazz Bistro Espresso (D5) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 022 627-4151, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 08:0024:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-24:00. For those familiar with the Jazz Bistro chain, this nonsmoking new venture offers the same menu, with the cosiness of a café. $ Kafka Cafe (E3) ul. Obożna 3, tel. 022 826-0822

HOT FIND

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

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Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 022 839-7560, www.kalimba.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-21:00. Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids. $ Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 022 632-6557, www.kawka.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-22:00;

Garaż Cafe (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25 tel. 022 858-2693 www.garaz-cafe.waw.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:30, Sat 13:00-21:30, Sun 13:00-17:30 araż Cafe is exactly what the name suggests: a truly local “café” located in a garage. It harks back to a generation of cafes which have now been largely overtaken by the more cosmopolitan alternatives. After walking down the slope into the garage space, we took time to appreciate our surroundings. The place is equipped with just the right amount of decorative paraphernalia, including a fish tank, timeless red gingham tablecloths, retro cabinets and posters on walls painted a pastel peach shade. It seemed a cool place to be, maybe more expected in the suburbs of London or Sydney. We could see how it kept a loyal following drawn from the many residential streets around, along with the offices and embassies tucked away in the surrounding villas. We continued through the cafe, spying a terrace at the back and parked ourselves in one of the four tables outside. This lunchtime, we were lucky to get a table at the back and we thoroughly appreciated our little hideaway. We had come for lunch and on this occasion, this local haunt the menu spanned the day with breakfast options and almost half the menu was devoted to drinks for when the evening crowd arrived. But it was the range of salads and pasta dishes which scored here. Thirteen salads and fifteen pasta dishes with one of the best vegetarian selections we had come across in Warsaw. Both our avocado salad (zł.17.50) and mozzarella salad (zł.17.50) were hearty and substantial with fresh chunky ingredients. Pastas included varieties you would expect such as arrabiata and carbonara but also some other good variations including four cheese and walnut and forest mushroom. The creamy chicken and pesto pasta (zł.19.50) was kept simple and tasty. We didn’t try the range of main courses and seafood this time but noted a good range of grilled meats and seafood, including sirloin in rosemary (zł.25.50) and chicken breast with feta (zł.19.50). Overall, quality food served without pomp on good old-fashioned pastel plates straight out of grandma’s kitchen. We did not come to garage cafe with high expectations so it was nice to be surprised. Although you can hardly call it a greasy spoon, it still maintains the airs of a traditional cafe. We handed over our money gladly and came back for a martini on the terrace the next day. $ (HS, KB)

“Garaż Cafe is exactly what the name suggests: a truly local ‘café’ located in a garage…”

This arty coffeehouse on the backstreets of the University is much more than just your typical student cafe. The bright interiors and fully-stocked bookshelves make this place a firm favourite with beatnicks of any age. $

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Sat & Sun 11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and a nice tea selection for you noncoffee types), Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting. $ Kępa Café (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 022 616-1225, www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0021:00 Sat-Sun 12:00-21:00 (or last guest) A beatnik café that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from all the city buzz. $ Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), www.koloniaochota.pl Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. La Petite (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 0604-469-317 Open every day 10:00-20:00. There are few places in Warsaw that are as homey and inviting as La Petite. A charming café and wine bar. $ Łysy Pingwin (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 11, tel. 022 618-0256. Open Mon-Thur 16:00-midnight, Fri & Sat 16:00-last guest. A laid back, yet jumping joint in the recently trendy Praga area. Not for tea-house patrons, this is more the place to hang out with the arty types. $ Między Nami Cafe (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 022 828-5417. Open Mon-

Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00. This is a hot spot at all hours of the day and night, but it’s not so hot if you dislike cigarette smoke, noise and crowds – all at the same time. $

unexpected location. The menu is friendly to vegetarians and no individual item is over 15 zlotys. Chef Bruno’s mastery of sauces, the heavenly sandwiches, and fresh baked muffins and cookies are guaranteed to keep you coming back. $

Mood Cafe (D10) al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 022 898-3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00. Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must! $

Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 022 826-0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-23:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theatre Square and great desserts. Indulge in a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service. $$

Nei Fiori (D9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 69, tel. 022 845-2331, www.neifiori.pl Open daily 09:00-22:00. A bright, clean, flowery restaurant serving everything from omelettes to pastas; from coffee and sweets to wine.$

Preˆt-`a-café (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 420-3233 Open Mon-Fri 07:30-24:00 Sat & Sun 09:3024:00 A place intended to satisfy the Female gender is just a short walk from Plac Trzech Krzyży. This sleek café offers shopping, cocktails and choice salads all under one chic roof. $$

Numery Litery (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 022 622-0560 www.numerylitery.pl Open Mon-Fri 9:0021:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. A quaint little cafe in the city center, Numery Litery is split between a highly-sophisticated press cafe for adults and a fun book and toy shop for kids. Great coffees, fresh juices, healthy treats and sandwiches. $ Ogrodowa Cafe (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 51, tel. 798-846-966, cafe@ogrodowacafe.com, www.ogrodowa cafe.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 This lunch place takes the inspiration for its soups, salads, and sandwiches from local Polish produce, resulting in more light and flavourful lunch fare than you might expect in this

Przegryź (E6) ul. Mokotowska 52, tel. 022 621-7177. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00 This teensy little cafe on ul. Mokotowska is the epitome of minimalist chic straight out of Paris. It’s got enough of an intellectual vibe without being too pretentious. The menu features a good range of standard cafe fare and refined mains. $$ Radio Café (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 022 625-2784, 022 628-3681, www.radiocafe.pl

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Open Mon-Fri 07:30-23:00; Sat & Sun 10:0023:00. This café is based on Radio Free Europe, which essentially sets the tone for this fabulous Parisian-style bistro. The trilingual menu features simple yet tasty international options for both breakfast and lunch. $$ Rozdroże (D5) al. Ujazdowskie 6, tel. 022 621-1158, www.rozdroze.pl Breakfast: Mon-Fri 08:0011:00; Sat & Sun 09:00-12:00. This is a good place to start the day. The breakfasts are very reasonable, featuring zł.10 package options. $ Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 022 635-9014, www.samefusy.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. A must for café-junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the expected to the bizarre) to choose from. $ Sketch Bar & Bistro (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 0602 762 764, www.sketch.pl Bistro open daily 10:00-1:00, restaurant open Mon-Fri 17:00-1:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-1:00 The bright, graphic interiors are attracting a fashionable crowd of all ages. Cool, sophisticated and fun — not to mention affordable. Brief menu features simple starters, good pastas and a few hearty mains for reasonable prices. Plus the best Belgian fries in town. The international spread of beers is a bit pricey but drop by for happy hour 17:00-19:00 daily and enjoy a tasty import for half-price. $$ Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 022 622-4934. Open Mon 12:00-last guest; Tue.-Sun 11:00last guest. Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova torte. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Desserts” Winner. Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 Open daily 8:00-21:00. The much-anticipated American coffee and cake franchise has arrived! The prices put the “bucks” in Starbucks, but actually don’t stray much from the typical Nowy Świat deal. The lines are endless, but it’s a pretty large space and great for people-watching. $$ To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 022 635-9023. Open daily 10:00-22:00, www.tolubie.pl The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with

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friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket of cookies comes highly recommended! $ Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 022 621-7799, www.tokcafe.pl Perfect music for Monday mornings. Plus, great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouth-watering selection of goodies for your sugar fix. $ TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) al. KEN 95 (near metro Stokłosy), tel. 022 251-3274, www.tutu.waw.pl Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s Ursynów district. Its name comes from the album that Miles Davies recorded in the 80s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak. $ Vespa Caffe (D6) ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), tel. 022 825-5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00, Sat 8:00-15:00. A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired by 1960’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office building. Vespa’s decorative palette of reds and oranges is bright. Unlimited free internet access and plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot for a mobile office. $ W Biegu Cafe (various locations) ul. Marszałkowska 104/122; ul. Świętokrzyska 18; ul. Nowy Świat 37; ul. Grzybowska 5a, ul. Puławska 17 (E8), tel. 022 852-8053; ul. Mokotowska 19 (E6), tel. 022 621-8451 Open Mon-Thur 08:00-22:00; Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 and Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. OK, here’s the deal with W Biegu: the entire experience depends on the staff and the service they are offering that day. $ Wedel Chocolate Parlour (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 022 827-2916. Open MonSat 08:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. Arkadia, Promenada, Złote Tarasy (C4), Shopping Centers. An ideal spot for a chocolate fix. $

Bagatela (E7) ul. Bagatela 12, tel. 022 625-2245. Open Mon-Wed 10:00-20:00; Thu & Fri 10:00midnight; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. Welcome to the Polish 70’s. Located in the basement of the Polish Information Agency, the interior could do with a new look. The food, however, is pretty good. $$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) The Orangery in Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1 (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 022 558-6700, www.belvedere.com.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. Its brilliant location, beautiful décor set in a gorgeous array of greenery, courteous service along with the impeccable presentation and succulent flavours of every dish, all of it proves that Polish restaurants can compete with the best of Europe. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best Polish Cuisine” Winner Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 022 826-5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily from 12:00last guest. Serving up traditional Polish cuisine and half-decent brewed-on-thepremises beer, this place has all the makings of a good boy’s night out. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339-1715. Open daily from noon to midnight. With its outstanding Polish fare, ranging from pierogi to smalec to bigos, this should be everyone’s first point of call when arriving in Warsaw. $$ Cwaniak Warszawski (B3) ul. Waliców 9, tel. 022 654-6767. Open daily 12:00-midnight. The best of Warsaw of the past and present come together in this restaurant that serves up Polish classics in a simple, old-fashioned setting. $$

polish

Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 022 622-4594. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:30; Sat 13:00-23:30. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$

Ale Gloria (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584-7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00 The affluent decor isn’t the only thing this restaurant has to offer. Aromatic, satiable tradional dishes with a contemporary twist, such as the duck breast in rose sauce, will keep you coming back for more. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best Service” Runner-up.

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 022 826-4770, www.delicjapolska.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. Updated review coming soon. $$$

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WARSAW BY MICHELIN BY AGNIESZKA LE NART AND CAROLINE BOURREAU COURTESY OF BOATHOUSE

This month the Insider explores the tasty spread that won Boathouse a Michelin nod in this year’s guide

Rock the boat

oathouse is one of the most pleasant spots for dining in Warsaw, with its nautical theme and location on the still-wild banks of the Vistula river. In summer, this place blooms and the green expanse of lawn welcomes foodies of all ages — the sizeable playground is a hit with the younger set. Grownup foodies can fully occupy themselves with the culinary delicacies concocted by yet another Frenchman, Lut Dernacourt. For this amenable fellow, food is clearly a passion. With a comprehensive menu decidedly based on seafood, Boathouse proffers a sophisticated style of Mediterranean cuisine. It was rainy the day we arrived for lunch so we opted to sit upstairs rather than out on the lawn. It took at least a quarter of an hour to order because everything just looked so tempting, but we settled on the salmon carpaccio with lemon pesto and lime creme fraiche and mezze (hummus, babaganouch, dolmas, labneh-

tsatziki, tabouleh, olives, spinach crescents) to start. I’d brought three other folks along for the ride, having realized that with spreads like this, the more the merrier. You can order to your heart’s content and sample everything without feeling too greedy. Next, we got the Chèvre Salad “Méditerranée” with baked French goat cheese, red wine poached pear, sun-dried tomatoes, herbs and pine nuts and the homemade Ravioli Tricolore filled with ricotta and spinach and served with mascarpone and pesto. Each dish presented unique and striking flavours that brought the fresh, salty breeze of the French, Italian and Greek coasts straight to our plates. Of course, we weren’t done yet. It wasn’t until we polished off the grilled Summer New Zealand lamb chops and Wild Nigerian Gambas drizzled with herb butter and citrus-olive oil did we feel properly sated. This time, we addressed the issue of dessert with the proper attitude, ordering the signature Tiramisu, Nouveau-style

Crème Brulée and melting Hot and Creamy Choco Cake. It was all so lovely and so decadent that all we could do was sit back with our espressos and sigh with contentment for the next three-quarters of an hour. While I must aver that the presentation of some of the dishes may be a bit too finicky for my simple tastes, the flavours are powerful enough to keep Boathouse at the top of the charts for a long time running. Boathouse Restaurant ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389A, tel. 022 616-3223

Michelin has been publishing its annual edition of Europe’s top dining establishments since 1900. This year’s guide boasts 16 of Warsaw’s finest hotels and restaurants among its picks U Kucharzy

A TASTE OF NEW ZEALAND

Pod Gigantami Polska „Tradycja” AleGloria Polska „Różana” Belvedere San Lorenzo Michel Moran – Bistro de Paris Biblioteka Dom Polski

COURTESY OF BOATHOUSE

Rubikon U Fukiera Flik Boathouse Qchnia Artystyczna U Szwejka

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Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 022 616-2432, www.rest auracjadompolski.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The restaurant is elegant, and surely too pricey to be a regular dining-out location, unless you’re on an expense account. Nonetheless, it charms with a special family atmosphere. $$$ Sunday family lunch: 12:00-17:00. Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 022 629-9989, restauracja.dyspensa@gmail.com, www.dyspensa.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00 The menu in this homey, elegant restaurant comprises fine traditional Polish fare with foreign influences and boasts an excellent reputation in terms of both cuisine delectability and service. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 022 890-1605, www.folkgospoda.pl Open daily 12:00midnight. With the traditional décor, highlighted by stone and wood additions, this main attraction pulls in the crowds. $$ Gospoda Kampinówka ul. Tetmajera 38, 05-080 Izabelin, tel. 022 721-8354, www.salmix.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat & Sun 10:0022:00. Located in the heart of Kampinoski National Park (very close to Warsaw), offers Polish meals prepared according to old traditional recipes, with an emphasis on venison, fowl and forest berries, or try some wild boar with smoked bacon. $$ Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 022 887-6520 gospodakwiatypolskie@o2.pl Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and very big portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka are highly recommended. $$ Gospoda pod Kogutem (C1) ul. Freta 48, tel. 022 635-8282, www.gospodapodkogutem.pl Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 11:00-24:00. Great pyzy ze skwarkami and more sophisticated Polish dishes, guaranteed to please both the fully matured expat and the culinarily nostalgic Pole. $$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00. Grand Kredens (B5) al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 022 629-8008. www.kredens.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last

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guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in a rather eclectic interior. $$$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, 022 635-0397, www.honoratka.com.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests. Now Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 022 850-3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. Red-stone walls, wooden floors, red curtains everywhere and big family-friendly wooden tables give the place a warm, festive air. It has a distinct past and, during the last century, rose to fame based on tales of eminent communist leaders ditching an official event of the Party to go instead enjoy great food and beverages at “the Inn.” $$ Karczma Na Piwnej ul. Piwna 3, Jawczyce, 05-850 Ożarów Mazowiecki, tel. 022 721-04070, www.karczmanapiwnej.pl Open Mon 08:0022:00; Tue.-Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 11:0022:00. Here you’ll find a rich menu which consists of antipasti, flavourful soups, hearty and meaty main dishes. $ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 022 841-4552. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $ Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 022 827-3054. Open daily 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00. Soup and ain for zł.19. Nowa La Boheme (D2) Plac Teatralny 1, tel. 022 692-0681, www.laboheme.com.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental. Well-suited for business lunches. $$

Ogrody Foksal (E5) ul. Foksal 2, tel. 022 827-8707, www.ogrodyfoksal.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:00last guest; Sun 11:00-23:00. A bit stuffy, but the food is passable. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00. Appetiser, soup, main and dessert up to zł.50. Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 022 828-0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl Open daily 11:00-21:00. Pierogarnia lives up to its reputation as the matriarch of the Warsaw pierogi scene. The perfect place to bring a foreigner or native, hungry for a true taste of Poland. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 022 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. Rustic fare and the best draught Pilsner Urquell in town draws publicity to this lively but cosy setting. Booking ahead is recommended. $$ Polskie Smaki (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 022 826-5967. Open daily 12:00-last guest. This is Polish food as it should be – traditional. The popular oscypek also finds its way into the selections. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 022 629-2312, www.podgigantami.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it an indelible mark of years gone by. But even if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is pretty nice. $$$

Restauracja “Pod Łaciatym Bobrem” Al. KEN 83, tel. 022 855-5676, ww.podlaciatymbobrem.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. A hidden gem of a small neighborhood restaurant serving exquisite and satiable Polish classics at great prices. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 022 848-1225 Open daily 12:00-24:00. Różana’s Empire-style decor and traditional Polish cuisine make every meal at this gorgeous pre-war villa memorable. Excellent wines and arguably the best dining in the city, from the farmhouse duck to the deer saddle filet – each cooked to perfection and unbelievably tender. Dessert is a decadent must with the Pavolva torte at the top of the list. $$ Restauracja Polska “Tradycja” (E8) ul. Belwederska 18a, tel. 022 840-0901, www.restauracjatradycja.pl Open daily 12:00-

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last guest. Situated in a large villa surrounded by lush trees and potted plants, offering wellknown Polish delicacies – all tasty and beautifully presented. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Polish Cuisine” Runner-up. Restauracja Rogatka (E7) pl. Unii Lubelskiej 1, tel. 0661 320 475 Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. The building is historical in its value, so it isn’t unusual for the interior to be filled with preWWII art. Adding to that traditional feel, you’ll be delighted at the generous portions of national specialities. $$ Restauracja Stara Szafa (F4) ul. Ludna 10, tel. 022 622-4812, www.staraszafa.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The epitome of ‘good kitsch’, the Old Wardrobe has it all: mood-enhancing décor, well-timed service, friendly locals and steak tartare to die for! $$ Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square, tel. 022 831-0259. Open daily from 11:00midnight. This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what not. To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with whipped cream and ice cream. $$$ Restauracja Staroświecka (multiple locations) al. KEN 54, tel. 022 436-5868, ul. Migdałowa 4, tel. 0513 095 457 Open daily 10:00-23:00, breakfast until 12:00. Halfway between Imielin and Natolin metro stations, it’s easy to reach. The home-made food and wooden indoor make this restaurant a perfect place to spend time with friends. $ Restauracja Warszawska (E6) ul. Chopina 5a, tel. 022 628-8140, www.restauracjawarszawska.pl Open daily. 12:00-last guest. Quite a mixed experience: the chicken liver salad was a delight but the zł.125 roast-suckling pig was more than disappointing… $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73, The Rialto Boutique Hotel, tel. 022 584-8771. The service is exceptional and all is reasonably priced. In the evenings, the menu is varied, delectable and fantastic. More than worth every złoty.

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Siwy Dym (Piaseczno) ul. Puławska 378 tel. 022 644-5000, www.siwydym.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:0024:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. This homey

restaurant promises a meal with a taste of regional Polish flavour and prides itself on hearty authenticity. $$

service and excellent food ensures that this place is often packed. $ Złoty Strug Inn and Restaurant (outskirts) Pluski 104, 11-034 Stawiguda, tel. 089 512-6228, zlotystrug@zlotystrug.com.pl, www.zlotystrug.com.pl. A country house 2 hours away from Warsaw stocked with a great home-style restaurant. Delicious traditional Polish dishes like chicken soup, fresh fish, roast rabbit and young cabbage. $$

Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 022 621-8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl Open daily 09:00last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattés and serve up slices of delectable pistachio cream cake and appleand-custard pie covered. $$

african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 606-980-098 Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00 Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can reappear. Alcohol isn’t served, but the ginger and bissap (hibiscus) juices are refreshing.$

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square) tel. 022 831-5808, www.ufukiera.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The ambience is that of an intimate dinner at a stately home – which it very well is: the Fukier townhouse has 500 years of history behind it. And the menu is full of elaborate dishes based on traditional Polish cuisine, prepared with skill and a distinctive flair that has earned the place a Michelin nod. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best Service” Winner

Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67, tel. 888-286813,www.homeafricabar.pl. Open daily 14:00-last guest Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as I-dare-you items like goat’s head. $

U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 022 826-7936. This restaurant is basically based on the openkitchen format, in what formerly served as the Hotel Europejski’s main kitchen and is now a sprawling white tiled dining-room divided up into larger and smaller dining rooms. So, maybe the service is a bit wonky and the wine list a bit weak, but it’s definitely on the Insider’s list of hotspots. $$

american & tex-mex

U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339-1710, wwww.uszwejka.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. Their żurek easily ranks among the best in town. Also serving a variety of good, perfectly spiced meat dishes, including Poland’s famous cabbage-wrapped gołąbki and a white sausage platter. $$ Villa Nuova ul. Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 022 885-1502, www.villanuova.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Zielnik Café (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 022 844-3500, www.zielnikcafe.pl Open daily 10:00-23:00. A neighbourhood café and restaurant with an inspired menu. Wooden floors, friendly

Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 022 629-3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl Sometimes all you need is a good steak to make everything okay; this is the place to find one. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 022 851-2323. With modern south western cuisine and a garden with a view on Morskie Oko Park, this place pulls in the families, kids and couples. A very rich menu, big portions, fabulous cocktails and a great frozen strawberry margarita make this place noteworthy. $$ Sunday brunch: 12:00-15:00; zł.72 for adults and zł.10 for kids under 10. Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630-5119, www.champions.pl Open Mon-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sun 11:0023:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> watching a large-screen TV as they leer at the large (ahems) of the passing waitresses – Champions is actually amazingly childfriendly at the weekends. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59, Złote Tarasy, tel. 022 222-0700. Open daily 12:00-midnight. All the favourites are firmly in place, like the double-baconcheeseburger, BLT, massive salads and the tastiest nachos and guacamole in the city by far. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 022 825-1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-midnight, Fri-Sat 10:0001:00 The ultimate dining place to satisy a craving for authentic American cuisine and kitsch. Try the chicken parmesan sandwich with Mexican salsa and three types of cheeses with a side order of perfectly golden fries and rinse it all down with Coca Cola. $ Rodeo Drive (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 022 829-4761, www.rodeodrive.pl Open Mon-Thurs. 11:0023:00; Fri-Sun 11:00-24.00 Though they bill themselves as Texas-R-Us, the menu has a few non-American surprises like żurek and Cowboy Prawns (zł.25) so sweet you could be forgiven for thinking that it’s a Wild Wild East recipe. Very large portions so be sure to come hungry. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 022 450-6100.

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Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue.-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Long known on the Warsaw scene as a good place to get spicy and sizzlin’ Tex-Mex dishes and great Margaritas. Good live music. $$$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza Bldg.), tel. 022 653-8360/62. Open Mon-Fri 10:0024:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. Typical USA chain style restaurant serving burgers, ribs and salads, with sometimes disappointing substitutes for American ingredients, although the beer and sports are fun. $$

asian & indian Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 022 826-3210. Open daily 12:00-22:00. The classiest of Chinese eateries. A beautiful and traditional indoor gives a great look at Chinese history and culture, perfectly complimented by a sophisticated menu. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 022 838-3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl Open daily 12:0022:00. Tucked under residential blocks in Wola, Canton has been wokking away quietly for 10 years. Highly recommended is the Peking Roast Duck (zł.99). Perfect for families and large groups. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 022 827-9707, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Open Mon-Fri

12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:3022:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish”, but that was our reviewer’s only complaint. On the plus side are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck.$$ China Town (Służewiec) al. Lotników 28, tel. 022 857-3490. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Anything from spring rolls to mysterious seafood in this oriental restaurant is not-too greasy not-too spicy – it’s all “just right”. $ Dziki Ryż (E8) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 848-0060, www.dzikiryz.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. In their new location, Dziki Ryż is bigger and better than before, with mostly Thai and other Eastern dishes. The eclectic décor creates a modest and elegant Asian mood. $$ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 022 621-5015, www.dzonka.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali and Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 022 828-6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest As a lavish gallery and restaurant in one, Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic

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seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$$ Ganesh (Ursynów) Al. Komisji Edukacji Narodowej 93 lok 1, tel. 022 335-0887, www.ganesh.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00 This Indian restaurant might not scream “fine dining” with its interior, but once you try their dahi gosht, you might beg to differ. The palak paneer, mutton vindaloo or vegetarian kofta won’t disappoint either. Satisfaction guaranteed. $$ Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 022 658-0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 022 438-9350, www.indiacurry.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. Authentic décor and an extensive menu that covers all corners of India. The Mutton Masala is out of this world. $$$ Kanton (D4) ul. Złota 9, tel. 022 420-9999, www.restauracjakanton.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. Kanton’s kitchen staff comes straight from Shanghai, featuring the amenable Chai, Wai and Bai. While some dishes are adapted to local tastes, such as the calamari “teppanyaki” hotplate, the fried rice rivals any

of the pricier joints in town. Colourful decor and kid-friendly service. $$ Kuchnia Kwai (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 64, tel. 022 621-2181, wwwkwai.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-last guest. The place to go if you’re in the dim sum, spring roll, tofu, straw mushroom and coconut sauce type of mood. Our editor recommends The Pad Makeua: eggplant, tofu, bok choi and garlic stir-fried in chilli sauce. Delicious. $$ Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant & Bar (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 8, tel. 022 696-3300 www.lemongrass.waw.pl Along the street known as “Embassy Way,” Lemongrass Restaurant is all sleek décor and fantastic Thai cuisine. The whole place is a futuristic mix of Asian minimalism and pan-European glamour. Excellent cocktails – try the Shanghair Mojito. Plus, a full dim sum menu and crispy aromatic duck with cucumber and spring onion. $$ BOW 2008 “ Best Business Lunch” Runner-up Maharaja Thai (Ursynów) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 022 635-2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. Go for the green curry, which is fantastic enough to overshadow Maharaja’s other weaknesses. This is the also the best place to get a real Thai coffee. $$ Orchidea (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 022 827-3436, www.restauracjaorchidea.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Recommendations include the spring rolls,

coconut curried veggies with lemongrass and chilli served on a bed of jasmine rice (a steal at zł.23) and the Thai green chicken curry with rice. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 022 450-6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel 022 826-1199, 022 826-4851. Open daily 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl Mix things up in this hip spot where the chef brings out the best of Thailand, Japan and China. Surprisingly great sushi – the salmon sashimi plate is brilliant – and tasty soups and curries. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Date Restaurant” Runner-up. Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 022 827-4804. Open daily 12:00-23:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin, on ul. Senatorska. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is very good. $$ Q-Club (E6-7) Hyatt Regency Hotel, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 022 558-1234. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-23:00. Fresh and funky Asian-themed menu, Q-Club offers a variety of gourmet buffet spreads from across the globe. $$$

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Red Orange (C3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 022 890-9825, www.redorange.com.pl Open daily 12:0023:00. Most of the Chinese classics, such as youtiao (puffy fried bread), mantou (steam buns), jiaozi (dumplings) and the basic white rice are much better-than-average for Warsaw. We strongly recommend the “Lover’s Cake.” $$

Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434-2216, www.sunanta.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Possibly the best Thai restaurant in Warsaw. Start with a mix of delicious appetizers, pad thai and all of the curries are great. Elegant, minimal decor, good service and a pleasant summer garden in the

centre of town make this a real treat for Thai afficionados. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 022 627-1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl Open daily 11:0023:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood and the shrimp cakes are worth a try. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 022 635-3888. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Lovely pastel interior, and a welcome change from the seedy and stained décor you’re accustomed to in ChineseVietnamese joints. Food and service get high marks as well. $$

HOT FIND

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

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austrian & german Adler Restauracja & Bar (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 022 628-7384, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-24:00. The rustic dark wood interior gives the restaurant a warm and cosy atmosphere. The service is efficient and friendly, the German-Polish

Nowa Vera Italia (Wola) ul. Żytnia 18 lok. J tel. 022 623-8044, www.nowaveraitalia.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00

“The Parma ham on your pizza will be real Parma ham and not some szynka equivalent…”

Wook (C5) al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (attached to the Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630-7474, www.wook.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. The meals are relatively cheap, and relatively small. This is a plus as you get to sample the entire menu, and can still be sure to have a go at the dessert. $

ight off the bat, I took note that the name of this restaurant makes a pretty confident claim. After a meal here, I can confirm that it’s actually the best description of the place – the „New Real” Italy. Nowa Vera Italia is run by a native Italian of Sicilian origin. When you enter the smallish premises, you can tell right away that there’s an air of authenticity all around. You start to feel as if you’re enjoying a typical Italian meal in a genuine trattoria. This feeling gets even stronger evenings, when there’s an Italian musician on the piano and singing classic Italian songs like “Italiano Vero.” The cosy interior may for some seem a bit gaudy for some but it’s just more proof of Nowa Vera’s claim to authenticity. This is what an Italian restaurant should look like – a bit kitsch with a generous dash of gold and some objects that look like they belong in a Sicilian grandma’s house. And of course, there’s the food. The menu is quite broad and consists of purely Italian classics – carpaccio (zł.22), bruschetta (zł. 6-8), spaghetti with pesto (zł.20) to name a few. The tomato sauce is chunky, with real tomato flavour highlighted with oregano and basil, while the pesto is just the right fresh taste and texture. As for the carpaccio, it’s so thinly sliced you can see through it and the flavour will make any beef lover squeal with pleasure. You can choose from about 20 types of pizzas and various seafood dishes. In fact, seafood abounds here, with Sicilian-style recipes that bring the Mediterranean coast to Warsaw. And although the portions are relatively large, you cannot leave the place without having the delicious profiteroles (zł.10) for dessert. I have some friends working nearby that pop in just to taste them and a glass of the establishment’s house wine (zł.6), which is surprisingly good for the price. All the food is prepared with products imported straight from Italy, so the Parma ham on your pizza will be real Parma ham and not some szynka equivalent. The only quibble is that the topping-to-dough ratio could be improved but it’s still pretty satisfying. The restaurant is child-friendly – crayons and storybooks available right at the entrance – and worth recommending for a family dinner or a romantic evening. Warsaw abounds in places that serve Italian food, but for a down-home Italian feel and flavour, this is the spot. (MG)

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style food is tasty and well prepared, and the portions are generous. $$ Der Elefant (C2) pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 022 624-7905, www.derelefant.pl Open Mon-Thur 10:30-01:30; Fri 10:30-02:00; Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 12:3001:30. Starters include old favourites such as breaded camembert with cranberries, as well as tasty seafood entrees. A good selection of grilled meat and Bitburger Pils is on tap. $$

balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 022 854-0782, www.banjaluka.pl Open daily 12:00-24:00. Enjoy a variety of dishes from the hearts of Croatia and Serbia-Montenegro, while listening to folk tunes. It’s a bustling place, so be sure to make a reservation. $$ Bistro Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 022 406-3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 022 625-1040 www.babooshka.pl Open daily 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” $ Korkociąg (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 022 625-4197, www.korkociag.pl. Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, Sun 14:00-last guest. With the decor being reminiscent of a gaudy small-town restuarant, Korkociąg, or “Corkscrew”, proves you can’t judge a book by its cover. Offers a variety of

Hungarian food, and luckily enough, the Harslevelu dessert and the great wines make up for the lack of culinary authenticity. $

into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 0660 880-724 Open daily 12:00-23:00. Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $

Atrio Restaurant & Bar (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 022 653-9600, www.atrio.waw.pl Open Mon-Sat 08:00-24:00. A great place to start the day with their amazing breakfasts, but also for lunch and dinner. With its stylish interior and efficient service, they will not disappoint – morning, noon or night. $$

Mała Serbia (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 022 622-4640. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. With wall to wall sports memorabilia, it’s no longer the only place in town serving authentic Serbian food. Meat-lovers will still be in their element: the portions are gigantic, delicious and good value for money. $

Baccara (multiple locations) al. Jana Pawła II 15 (ILMET building, 1 floor) tel. 022 697-7892; Restaurant, Cafeteria, Bistro, ul. Chałubińskiego 8; Cafeteria, Bistro, Reduta, tel. 022 697-7892. Baccara is a chain of restaurants and shops where they make their own products to serve and sell. $$

Tbilisi (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 022 646-0482. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00, Sat 12:00-18:00 At this Georgian spot, dishes are pinned onto a sideboard and removed when sold out, so if your timing is right, you’ll come across the excellent lamb shish kebab or the lobio soup. The ideal place for low-key meals or take-outs. Note the early closing time. $

european & int’l. Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 022 622-4454, www.bacio.pl Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you

Bazyliszek Restaurant (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. 022 831-1841 Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 12:00-24:00 One of the oldest restaurants in the Market Square, dating back to 1781. Bazyliszek’s new owner has given the place a swanky new look and a new menu. The decor is reminiscent of a Parisian bistro and the cuisine is traditional Polish fare and European cuisine. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 022 616-3223, www.boathouse.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Divinely inspired cooking and gorgeous Mediterranean dishes. Lovely play area for kids and a nanny at the weekend brunch. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best International Cuisine” Runner-up.

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Borpince (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 022 828-2244 www.borpince.pl Open daily 17:00-23:00. This is the place to go for Hungarian cuisine. Despite its cellar location, the restaurant will make you feel very comfortable. $$ Sunday brunch: 12:00-16:00, zł.59 for adults, zł.29 for under 16. $$

World buffet dinner offers diners an unmatched spread of their favourite treats fresh from the sea. Downtown’s menu features an array of tasty dishes prepared by the InterContinental’s new executive chef Thorsten Hoeck. Langorous BOW 2008 “Best Sunday Brunch. $$ Business Brunch” Winner

Café l’Europe (D3) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 022 826-9155. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. An unpretentiously elegant place serving fantastic starters: porcini mushroom soup and eggplants stuffed with goat cheese in a balsamic-basil sauce, and a sound choice of mains. Elegant, tasty dishes. $$

Fabryka Trzciny Restauracja ul. Otwocka 14, tel. 022 619-1705, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl Open Mon 12:00-15:00; Tue.-Sun 12:00-24:00 (the kitchen closes at 23:00). Since its opening in 2005, the restaurant in Fabryka Trzciny has had two things going for it: a creatively seductive space far away from the hurly-burly of downtown Warsaw and a menu labeling itself as ‘artindustrial’ that blends Polish classics with a contemporary twist. $$

Café Kredens (F6) ul. Przemysłowa 36, tel. 022 625-1578, www.kredens.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Much smaller than its Grand cousin, the café is fitted out to remind you of a Polish grandmother’s cosy, warm flat and serves some really good Polish and international fare. $$$ Centrum Wina (Służewiec) ul. Puławska 336, tel. 022 566-3481, www.centrumwina.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00. In the airy atmosphere of a futuristic loft, it is hard not to be smitten by what the amiable Botswana-born chef whips up. The in-house sommelier will match them for you with one of the nearly 700 wines available. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 022 828-4585, www.ckoberza.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:0024:00. Premium wine bar serving CentralEuropean cuisine with a variety of meat dishes, featuring Polish, Czech, Hungarian and Austrian specialities. Try the Cesarska Deska Mięs for a carnivorous experience. $$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 022 826-0660, www.kredens.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Classy and warm, with a large number of intriguing starters on a menu worth exploring for those with an adventurous spirit. $$$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) InterContinental Warsaw, ul. Emilii Plater 49, level 2, tel. 022 328-8888 Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 18:00-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. On Fridays, the Seafood of the

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Flik (E9) ul. Puławska 43, tel. 022 849-4434, www.flik.com Open daily 10:00-24:00. This is the trough that all the nearby embassy staff frequent for their expense account lunches. The grilled prawns are highly recommended. $$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00. Smorgasbord for zł.48-50. Fret@Porter (C1) ul. Freta 37, tel./fax 022 635-3754, www.fretaporter.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. Sporting an incredibly diverse and unusual menu, Fret@Porter’s roasted duck in a rose sauce is one of the best we’ve had in Europe. The décor is loud and eccentric, yet somehow manages to be very tasteful. $$ Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 022 635-0931. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices. Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-to-ceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$ Galeria & Restauracja Zadra (C2) ul. Gen. Wł. Andersa 29, tel. 022 831-9668, www.galeriazadra.pl Open daily 11:0024:00. The steak is a succulent and melt-inthe-mouth hunk of beef and creme brulée fans should definitely converge here. $$ Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 022 828-2605, www.gar.com.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. Its elegant decor may prove intimidating for some, yet once you’re in, you’ll feel right at home. The menu is based on new twists on traditional Polish and French cuisine. The tartar is delicious and there’s even a

vegetarian version. Business Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. $$$ Honey Restaurant & Bar (Bielany) al. Reymonta 12, tel. 022 633-0024, restauracja@honey.com.pl, www.honey.com.pl Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00midnight. Located in Bielany, Honey doesn’t quite live up to the name. The spinach and shrimp-filled pouches aren’t too bad, but the fish is just way too fishy. $ Jajo Restaurant Café Bar (D4) ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 022 826-4493. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. Hmmm. A bit hit-and-miss: the grilled peppers stuffed with goat cheese (zł.19) came stuffed with camembert instead and the Penrose Riesling is lovely while the Chablis is not. Thank goodness the tiger shrimp with black spaghetti in spicy butter sauce is a hit. $$ Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 022 627-4151, www.jazzbistro.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-24:00. The vibe, service and reasonable pricing should get your mind off things for a few minutes outside work. The omelettes are wonderful for breakfast. $$ Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) ul. Piwna 40, tel. 022 887-8764. Open daily 10:00-last guest. With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some others, a good choice $$ Kaiser (D4) ul. Chmielna 24, tel. 022 826-3191. Open daily 12:00-last guest. With a lovely mix of Polish and international dishes (such as huge salads and massive plates of pasta), Kaiser is a sure-fire winner with something to please everyone, though vegetarians may go a bit hungry. Service is a tad inattentive, though friendly enough. $$

KOM (C3) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 022 338-6353, www.komunikat.net Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00 Sat 12:00-17:00 Kom’s got a new chef so we’ll be swinging by soon to see the updated menu. Always a wonderful spot for scoring great wines and enjoying the Art Deco design scheme. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Wine Bar” Runner-up. La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222-0495, www.winnica.pl, Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features

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wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal accompanied by a perfectly-matched wine. La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 022 531-6070, www.leregina.com Open Mon-Fri 06:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 07:00-11:00, 12:00-23:00. The dishes on the menu are works of art which not only look good, but will leave you speechless with gustatory delight. The service is impeccable. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best International Cuisine” Winner Lila Weneda (C5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630-5176. Open daily 06:30-11:00 for breakfast; Sun 12:00-17:00 for brunch. Delicious food with international influences, and impeccable service. Lacks some atmosphere in the evenings, but it’s consistently great for gigantic, child-friendly Sunday brunch buffets. $$$ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 022 551-1823. Open 7 days a week; breakfast 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30, dinner 18:00-23:00. Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavourful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from Warsaw’s top hotel – excellent. $$$ Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 636-8709 www.mielzynski.pl Open daily 9:00-23:00 Mielżyński’s is without a doubt one of the best wine bars and tapas-style restaurants in the city. Located in the ultra-fashionable enclave at ul. Burakowska, it combines the finest wines known to man with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Wine Bar” Winner. Orange Restauracja & Klub (D4) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 022 627-3770, www.orange-art-fun.pl Open: Mon-Fri 09:00last guest; Sat-Sun 11:00-last guest. Tasty lunches during the week. Evenings, the place parties with music ranging from house, DJ sets and hits of the 70s, 80s and 90s. $ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 022 856-7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl Open daily 10:00-last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$

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EATING OUT Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 022 616-2882, www.passepartout.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. European with a touch of Asian and American. Something for every fancy. Try the salmon (zł.41) lightly studded with crushed peppercorns – delicious. $$ Porto Praga (Praga) Global Food & Connoisseur Bar, ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 022 698-5001, www.portopraga.pl It’s worth a trip across the Vistula to explore the world of fine global cuisine in the Art Deco interiors of a renovated textile mill. World-class cocktails and premium international dishes like Spanish ossobuco, and Madagascar filet mignon. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Cocktails” Winner Prima Vera (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 022 406-2345, www.prima-vera.pl, Open daily 11:00-23:00. This Ukranian joint boasts some great dishes from around the world, especially the carpaccio, thincrust pizzas or simple chłodnik on warmer days. $ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, al. Ujazdowskie 6, tel. 022 625-7627, www.qchnia.pl Open daily 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 022 628-0296. Open daily 9:00-23:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalising selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$$ Restauracja Galeon (E9) ul. Huculska 1, tel. 022 558-0180, www.galeon.waw.pl Open Mon-Thur & Sun 11:00-24:00; Fri & Sat 11:00-03:00. A great Polish/seafood combination menu, with fresh shellfish and citrusy fish. $$ Restauracja Obsessja (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11 (entrance ul. Belwederska), tel. 022 684-2115, www.obsessja.pl Open daily 12:00-24:00. This restaurant located in the building of Hotel Belwederski has an unsettlingly kitsch decor. The grilled fish and veggies are divine. $ Restauracja Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 022 339-0775,

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THE NEW FLAVOUR OF ITALY BY HILARY HEULER

Chef’s Special The Insider’s Hilary Heuler chats with Luca Dolfi, head chef at San Lorenzo, about cooking Italian-style

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

al. Jana Pawła II 36 tel. 022 652-1616 www.sanlorenzo.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest.

STYLISH DINING AT SAN LORENZO

or many of us, the very idea of Italian cuisine – home-made fettuccini, fresh foccacia and spaghetti alla carbonara – is imbued with a sense of history and centuriesold tradition. It’s the stuff of rustic hillside villages, Italian grandmas and recipes that date back to the Renaissance. San Lorenzo’s Luca Dolfi hails from Tuscany and he insists that his dishes are based on Tuscan cuisine. But is it traditional Tuscan cuisine? “We don’t have traditional Italian cuisine in Tuscany, because it has evolved,” says Dolfi matter-of-factly, explaining that food these days is much lighter than it used to be. “Before, the food used to be very heavy, very fatty. But people’s eating habits have

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changed, so now we try to look at what’s healthy.” The result is less cream, oil and fat. “It is traditional in a way,” he adds, “but it’s also very modern.” What this means is delicious dishes come alive with the fresh flavours of authentic Italian produce, but cooked in a way that wouldn’t make your cardiologist cringe. For instance, Dolfi explains that “traditionally,” a piece of beef would be grilled for ten minutes. But instead, he grills it for just one minute to seal in the juices, then pops it in the oven for ten minutes – the result is a much healthier slice of meat, packed full of vitamins. Nor do Italian chefs feel restricted to home-grown ingredients. Dolfi whips up an example of culinary evolution – tender strips of calamari and zucchini

topped off with shrimps, all served on a bed of lettuce, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, and battered with… tempura. This dish used to be served with batter of flour and water, he explains, but he decided to switch to something lighter, crispier, and decidedly un-Italian. “The tempura batter is very modern, and it’s much more tasty,” he says. “Before, we took one product and cooked it in a certain way. Now we consider all the possibilities of what we can do with it.” The results certainly speak for themselves. Paired with a tender rack of lamb in a honey-mustard crust, the calamari will certainly leave you dreaming of Italy. The Italy of today that is, thoroughly modern, fresh and set to compete with the best players on the global culinary scene.

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Oven-Roasted Carré of Lamb with Honey-Mustard Crust

Ingredients: Fresh lamb cutlets, mustard, honey, fresh thyme and rosemary, salt, pepper, rye breakcrumbs, vegetable oil suitable for roasting Preparation: Cut lam into portions and dip into marinade of honey and mustard, then sprinkle with finely-chopped herbs and breadcrumbs. Roast in oven heated to 220°C for 10 minutes and serve.

Crisp Calamari, Zucchini and Courgettes Ingredients: Whole fresh medium-sized squid, medium-sized zucchini, courgette, 100g Tiger Prawns, cooking oil suitable for deep frying Tempura Batter: blend 1/2 cup flour, 1/2 cup cornstarch, 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 1 teaspoon, sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1 egg, 2/3 cup ice water

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

Preparation: Slice all ingredients into thin strips, soak in tempura batter. Heat oil to 190°C and deep fry for 3-4 minutes. Serve on a bed of fresh lettuce drizzled with balsamic vinegar.

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> 022 626-8907, www.studiobuffo.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:30-23:00; Sat & Sun 13:0023:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types. The menu offers tasty conventional mains. $$ Restaurant 99 (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 022 620-1999. Open daily 08:00-23:00. Portion sizes are satisfying, the menu is fresh and original and the service will make your meal even more pleasurable. $$$ Business Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00. Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 022 318-2835, www.cafestrauss.pl Open Mon-Sat: Lunch 11:00-16:00, Dinner 18:00-22:30, Sun: 18:00-22:00. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28, tel. 022 626-1415. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food. The result is Sofa. With excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing Semifredo ice-cream. Recommended for a romantic evening. $$ Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 022 839-3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl Open daily 12:0023:00. Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$$ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 022 826-3008, www.stantonio.pl Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Stajnia Chojnów and Le Carrousel Restaurant ul. Solec 72, 05-532 (Entrance from route 79 between Góra Kalwaria & Piaseczno), tel. 022 736-2878, www.stajniachojnow.pl More than just horse stables, this sweet countryside getaway has also got a restaurant that successfully whips up well-proportioned and great value main courses, blending Polish and European influences and ingredients. Great way to round out a day at the stables. $$

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Tiffany’s Restaurant and Club (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 72, tel. 022 242-8710 Open daily 10:00-last guest. If you’re looking to dine and party straight afterward at one place, this is it. This brand-new Italian and French cuisine-serving restaurant tranforms into a dance party at night, almost like a two-for-one special. This place has fallen off the radar in recent months. Design scheme a bit confusing and menu not so promising. Better suited for late-night partying. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 022 827-8716; catering mob. 0502-042-588, www.restauracja villafoksal.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fully-booked. $$ Vinarius (E2) ul. Bednarska 28/30. tel. 022 828-8861, www.vinarius.pl, Open daily 11:00-23:00 Opened by a Kraków-based importer, this place functions without a wine list, and instead a sommelier chooses a goodquality-wine-for price for the customer based on preferences. The main courses are scribbled on a blackboard and are passable, but the desserts are very good. $ Vinoteka La Bodega (E5) ul. Nowy Świat 5, tel. 022 745-4610, www.bodega.pl As part of the emerging culture of wine-tasting, Vinoteka helps you on your journey to discovering the joys of Bacchus, with its selection of fine wines, liqueurs and cognacs. $$ You & Me Bar (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 420-3434, www.youandmebar.pl Open Mon.-Thur. 08:3001:00; Fri. & Sat. 08:30-03:00; Sun. 12:00-24:00. Bold, crimson decor makes this a hot dating spot on weekends. We’ll be back soon to see what’s new on the menu for food and drinks. $$ Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 022 839-8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl Open daily 10:0022:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine guarantees something for everyone. Great pizza. $ Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 022 447-2500 www.jazzbistro.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00,

Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00 The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lenghty, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. Skip the tuna steak in teriyaki but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$ Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 022 646-4585, www.bistrozuzu.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

french Absynt (D5) ul. Wspólna 35, tel. 022 621-1881, www.kregliccy.pl/absynt.php Open daily: 12:00-23:00. The menu is replete with duck, goat cheese, seafood and game. Languid but friendly service and great wines. Frequented mainly by the expense account circuit. $$$ Bastylia – Naleśniki Francuskie (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 022 825-0157, www.bastylia.com.pl Open daily 08:00-22:00. Although quite small, Bastylia has a great atmosphere and offers a wide range of crepes to choose from. $ Brasserie Parisienne Chez Lautrec (B4) ul. Sienna 39 (Warsaw Tower), tel. 022 6542675, www.chezlautrec.com.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. Theatrical French décor, with top-notch food: delicate cream of zucchini soup, snails drenched in nut-andherb butter, quail with rose petals, foie gras and delicious wines. $$$ Le Regal (Ursynów-Stokłosy) Al. KEN 95, tel. 022 644-1718, www.leregal.pl Open Mon-Sun 11:00-23:00 A charming rustic-style restaurant smack in the middle of where you’d least expect: in Ursynów! Le Regal’s head chef spent years cooking in France and it’s pretty obvious in the array of starters and mains: snails, crab claws, duck in cranberries sauce, figs in caramel sauce and creme brulée (of course!). $

Bistro de Paris – Restaurant Michel Moran pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 826-0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. This upmarket restaraunt dazzles with an

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extensive menu full of brilliant French cuisine and impeccable service. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 02 621-4258. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavours. $$ Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, Milanówek, tel. 022 425-3881 www.willaborowka.pl Restaurant opens Tues-Fri 12:00-15:00 and 18:00-22:30, Sat-Sun 12:00-22:30. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

fusion Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 022 845-0944. Open daily 11:00-00:00, www.esencjasmaku.pl In a city saturated with sushi, pasta and pierogi, there’s always room for a restaurant that knows and respects its culinary roots, and aims to re-establish the simple sensory pleasures of predominantly local and superlatively fresh seasonal ingredients. $$ Essence (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434-2083, www.essence-cafe.pl Open Mon-Thurs 08:000:00, Fri 08:00-01:00, Sat 12:00-01:00, Sun 12:00-00:00. An offshoot of Nowy Świat’s Sense. Features an inventive menu of global food, from veggie samosas to Obama burgers. The cocktails, concocted by Danny Undhammar, are hands-down the best in the city. Breakfast served weekdays 8:00-13:00 and weekends 12:00-16:00. Reasonable prices too. $ Essencia (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98 (Novotel Hotel), tel. 022 596-0120, www.essencia.pagi.pl Open daily 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00. The cuisine is a fine and unique mixture of different sorts, which come – quite literally – in different shapes and sizes. Sip your warm drink from a fancy porcelain setting, while perusing their dessert menu. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 022 4508631. Open Mon-Fri 06:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 07:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. The lunchtime service is efficient (i.e. quick). For the dinner options, try the spring rolls or

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EATING OUT stir-fried black tiger prawns. $$ Business Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30; buffet for zł.95. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Sunday Brunch” Winner Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 022 827-3003, www.ginger.com.pl Open non-stop. International fusion cuisine, emerging from fast-paced gastronomic globalisation. Latenite service is a boon for clubbers. $$ Herezja Restaurant and Club (B3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 022 654-5099, www.herezja.com. Open sun-thurs 12:0023:00, fri-sat 12:00-last guest While its location may seem a bit sketchy for some, tucked between garages and tanning booths, Herezja has the potential to become a pretty hip spot in the coming months. The Bollywood-style decor is pretty remarkable, although the main fare leaves something to be desired. The late-nite drink option on the weekend is a much better bet. $$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 022 492-7409. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-19:00. This former bathhouse is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramic tiles. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy’ flair. From a mouth watering grilled lobster to tagliolini with scallops and langoustines, this is a menu designed to impress. An extensive French and Italian wine selection and creative desserts. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best Newcomer” Runner-up. Meza Restaurant (A4) Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Center, ul. Grzybowska 63. Open daily 06:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Sunday Brunch” Runner-up Moliera 6 (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 022 828-0349. Open Sun-Mon 12:00-22:00, Tues-Sat 12:0023:00. A stone’s throw from the Opera House, this restaurant offers a wide-ranging menu of traditional French, Belgian and Polish cuisine. $$ Nomia Restaurant (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, tel. 022 8314379 Open daily 10:00-last guest Nomia is the chicest and yummiest place to grab a bite in the New Town Square. Try the fried oyster mushroom, grilled oscypek or duck in orange sauce with apples. Great mojitos! $$

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Nu Jazz Bistro (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 621-8989. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:0002:00. Very contemporary and eclectic, both in ambience and in menu. The meals offered here are fusion dishes – combinations of Italian, Chinese, Japanese and Thai, as well as some European and Mexican favourites. Enjoy live music at the weekends. $$ Porta 13 Bio Restaurant (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 022 505-9999 Open daily 6:30-10:30 and 12:00-23:00

In a stylish Zen-like interior, every dish in this place confirms the idea that bio really does taste better. Goat cheese roulade with herbs or a refined dish such as foie gras with plums pickled in armagnac and stewed sweetbreads are popular here. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826-6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 12:00-last guest. Warsaw’s first fusion restaurant still leads the pack in terms of signature cocktails— you can’t miss the

HOT FIND

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

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Tam Tam (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 022 828-2622, mob. 0608-522-622, www.tamtam.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. A very popular restaurant, it’s worth making a reservation. A unique combination of sizzle and spice and traditional favourites make this a winner. $$

Quattro Canti Trattoria ul. Syta 120 tel. 0509 644-559 www.quattrocanti.pl Open daily 12:00 to 22:00 ocation! Location! Location? We first had to venture in the direction of one of Warsaw’s unsightly power stations to a residential area lurking behind Wilanów Palace. Secondly, the entrance through a supermarket was not exactly alluring. However, the place had come recommended by a number of friends and we felt compelled to see if they were right. Walking through the door we were met by an appealing, smoky aroma from the pizza oven. A local trattoria charm and vibe prevailed and we thought to ourselves, “so far so good.” The room was filled with rustic Mediterranean influences but authenticity was not taken overboard — the barn-style door was decorated with a sizable flat-screen TV. Ok so there was no warm convivial greeting by an Italian mama or a slap on the back godfather-style, but the atmosphere was as relaxed and neighbourly as it gets in Warsaw. The substantial menu included the usual Italian suspects: pizzas, pastas, salads and risottos. But there were some more extravagant starters and an interesting collection of fish and seafood dishes. To start we sampled the vitello tonato (zł.25), slices of roasted veal in a tuna and capers sauce - which we can heartily recommend. As a slightly less adventurous choice, we chose the bruschetta (zł.12) which, with a choice of toppings, was a safe and well-executed option. We moved on to a pizza, having the urge to see our dinner being made before us. We watched our Mafioso (zł.24) and Vegetariana (zł.23) evolve as they were covered in plenty of toppings and emerged from the pizza oven still bubbling around the edges. The reliable choice of spaghetti alla carbanara (zł.22) was perhaps more creamy than the traditional recipe, but was delicious nevertheless with plenty of bacon and al dente in texture. Spinach with gorgonzola (zł.16) was a generous and tasty side dish. For dessert the offering was textbook dolce: panna cotta, tartuffo, tiramisu and profiteroles. The tartuffo (zł.15) we sampled in both vanilla and chocolate. It was excellent and too good to share even with your best friend. Perhaps with the culinary spotlight on other spots in Warsaw, this may not be a destination location for some, but the good quality food and reasonable prices at the “Four Corners” keep locals coming back. Plus, the summer terrace is a great option for a casual meal and a draft beer after a stroll through the majestic Wilanów Palace. And its location on ul. Syta (Full Street) is pretty apt too. $ (HS, KB)

“The substantial menu included the usual Italian suspects: pizzas, pastas, salads and risottos…”

watermelon martini. The menu blends the best of Asian and European cusine, with its delicious curries and tom kah kai soup. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Date Restaurant” Winner

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greek/middle eastern Bar Balbinka (B5) al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 022 625-4440. Open daily 09:00-22:00. All the usual kebabs and grills you expect to find in a typical Turkish café, but supplemented with daily home-made specials such as stuffed aubergine, spicy lamb stews or tasty trout. $ Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 022 616-2580. Open daily 08:00-20:00. Small and always packed; the menu features all the old favourites: kebabs, grills and salads, and a special Turkish yoghurt. $ Le Cedre (F1) al. Solidarności 61, tel. 022 670-1166, www.lecedre.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. Special recommendations: a salad with parsley as a starter and the cubes of chicken grilled on a skewer. Next door is Cedros, offering Lebanese food and other items, including a great take-away service. $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 022 585-1004. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. $$ Meltemi Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 022 823-9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect

presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Samira (C7) al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 022 825-0961. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.samira.pl If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and and artist scarfing down their excellent Lebabon Kafta. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 022 672-0525. www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php Open daily 12:00-23:00. Good Greek cuisine, a lovely whitewashed courtyard with friendly service. $$ Tawerna Tabaka (D4) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 022 828 1060, www.tawernatabaka.pl Open daily 12:0023:00 Tabaka Tawerna brings the essence of the Balkans to Poland. Food-wise, it bills its fare as ‘exotic Ottoman cuisine”, embodying the regional specialties of Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, Montenegro, Macedonia, Greece and Turkey. $$ Uczta Ormiańska (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49, tel. 022 628-00-20. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The place is small but very pleasant, though far from an interior design statement. It’s extremely inviting for parties of 10 or more, with the menu full of authentic Armenian dishes, and they are all delicious. $$

Zorba ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 022 648-4589, www.zorba.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to kvetch about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetisers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$

italian Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 022 635-8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl Open daily 08:0023:00. Cornetti, fratetti, focaccia and panna cotta are just a few of melodic Italian breakfast treats you’ll come across. Breakfast served daily from 08:00-12:00. $$$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 022 626-8303, www.bacio.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:0024:00. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. The dishes are OTT, both in size and flavour, and they do have great pastas. $$$ Bar a Boo (B2) ul. Karmelicka 17 (corner of Anielewicza) tel. 022 636-6777 Open 12:00-last guest. Bar a Boo is perfect for a business meeting, an evening with friends, a romantic rendezvous or a family dinner. The owners respect Italian traditions and cuisine: everything is prepared according to authentic recipes using original products. $$ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 022 885-7505,

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THAT’S AMORE!

TOPPING UP BY HILARY HEULER

very Varsovian has a pizza joint of choice, from chic restaurants to the little bar under the highway in Agrykola park – my own fave. Here are a few solid bets to get you started on your personal pursuit of prime pizza pies…

from eager pizza-lovers for years. But this Ochota institution doesn’t seem to be resting on its laurels, and still turns out a mighty tasty, crusty pie. Neither the location nor the décor do much for the character of the place, but we’re here for the pizza, right? If you’re looking for a new spot in the Ochota area, Pizzeria na Barskiej just around the corner gives Nonsolo some stiff competition.

Piccola Italia

Zaułek Smaków – Winiaria Portius

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

COURTESY OF POMIDORO/STARA PAPIERNIA

Who doesn’t love pizza? But how to find a good one in Warsaw? Here’s your Insider’s snapshot of some of the finest pizza pies Warsaw has to offer…

COURTESY OF PICCOLA ITALIA

Pizzeria na Nowolipkach

ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, tel. 022 846 8737 www.piccolaitalia.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 022 839 8681 www.zauleksmakow.com.pl Open daily 10:00-22:00

The first floor of a non-descript shopping centre in Ochota may seem like a strange place to find good pizza. But there it is, emerging from a wood-fired oven: the best pizza wegetariańska in town. The thin, chewy crust, mountains of eggplant and artichoke hearts, and merciful absence of corn will make you forget ham and pepperoni altogether. But if you do feel up for a bit more protein, Piccola’s other offerings are quite good too.

Nonsolo Pizza ul. Grójecka 20c, tel. 022 824 1273 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00 With its real wood-fired oven (a rarity in Warsaw), Nonsolo has been earning plaudits

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ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 022 498 8877 Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 11:0023:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 This unassuming place may come as a bit of a surprise, but beneath the Żywiec umbrellas of this popular family eatery is a truly impressive pizza pie. Chock full of fresh vegetables, thick rounds of onion and flavourful meats, the enormous pizzas here explain why this place is packed all day long. They even do home deliveries. Don’t be distracted by the fancier Bar a Boo down the street – it may look nice, but the pizza – too much dough and hardly any toppings – and service leave much to be desired. The restaurant Arsenał just by the Ratusz metro promises a great pizza and beer lunch deal that we are set to try as soon as we get over the pizza overload from researching this article…

Settled on the corner of a quiet residential street in Żoliborz, this civilized little spot definitely scores top marks for class. The garden out back is shady and refreshing, the service is polite and the restaurant is always buzzing with intellectual chatter. They have a full Italian/Polish menu, but the pizza here – simple, thin-crusted and delicious – never disappoints. Washed down with a glass of premium Hungarian wine, it’s ideal for a lazy September afternoon.

Pizzeria Na Winklu ul. Zakopiańska 32, tel. 022 617 6574 www.gambit.ugo.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-22:00 If you’re looking for yet another excuse to venture over to Saska Kępa, this is it. Settle in on the porch under a thick canopy of vines to tuck into their excellent pizza – made with lots of fresh ingredients, with a nice puffy crust. There’s no English menu, but they’re basically all yummy. If you’re stuck for choice, order the Roma.

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www.castello.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 022 828-0222, www.siesta.com.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$ Sunday brunch: 12:00-16:00, zł.88. Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 022 831-3443 Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight, Sun 13:0017:00. Reminiscent of a small Tuscan village with a rustic decor, Enoteka tilts its scale to the minamilist side, while still serving delicious and filling dishes. It’s even got a few good-sized private dining rooms tucked away for more intimate gatherings. $$

local restaurant critics and TV cooks, one look at the restaurant’s menu is enough to get you feeling very hungry indeed. Go for the heavenly sole in gorgonzola-spinach sauce. $$$

is a perfect place to grab a quick lunch between meetings, or to enjoy a long, lazy afternoon. The staff is amazingly friendly and welcoming, and the pastas and freshmade pizzas are great. $$

Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 022 8262788, www.giovanni.pl Open daily 11:00midnight/last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. Decent house wine too. $

Mille Gusti (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23 (corner of al. Jana Pawła II), tel. 022 499-5178 www.millegusti.pl In Italian, Mille Gusti means “a thousand tastes.” This newcomer on the Warsaw scene is true to its name, offering a wide-ranging menu of Italian dishes – from salads to hearty pastas, meat dishes and, of course, pizza pies. $$

La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 331-6798, 022 331-6797, www.lacantina.com.pl Open daily 11:00-last guest. Happy hours Mon-Fri 16:00-19:00. A long wait and stiff prices leave much to be desired. $$

Nonsolopizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 20c, tel. 022 824-1273 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00 The decor isn’t striking, the pastas are passable, but the salads are good and the varied selection of pizzas from the wood-fired oven is superb. $

Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano (Służew)

La Strada (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 23/25, tel. 022 670-0527, www.lastrada.com.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. A hot find in Praga, with a décor easily reminiscent of an Italian village. Offers authentic, satiable Italian cuisine consisting of rich seasoning and fresh ingredients. Start off with a plate of assorted appetizers – beef tartar with thin slices of parmesan, prosciutto-wrapped cantaloupe and insalate caprese – and enjoy. $$

ul. Rzymowskiego 34, tel. 022 549-6501, www.giancarlo.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Everything you’d expect from an Italian restaurant. Frequented by

Mela Verde (D4) ul. Chmielna 8, tel. 022 826-6346, www.melaverde.pl. Hidden just off ul. Chmielna, this Italian pizzeria and eatery

Five ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. 022 402-3191, www.fiverestaurant.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:0024:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. This restaurant tries hard to be chic and boasts the best pizza in town, although our experience proved the opposite. Avoid at all costs. $$

Pappa Grappa (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 022 849-4442, www.pappagrappa.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Great décor and nice music set the scene for a good dining experience. The Spaghetti Frutti di Mare and Gnocchi Dela Casa really deserve a standing ovation. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630-6306. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 17:00-23:00. Excellent service, traditional Italian menu and incredible food. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00.

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Pastacafe (H2) ul. Kamionkowska 48a, tel. 022 870-0373, www.pastacafe.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-20:00. Pastacafe, a low-key restaurant-cum-café situated on quiet Kamionkowska Street has managed to perpetually lure a regular following. $$ Piccolo Bacio (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 022 622-6665, www.bacio.pl/piccolo Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-22:00. The food is more than perfectly fine, but the wildly bizarre interior design is more likely to catch your attention. This is one of the places where you should not miss out on the entrées. $$ Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 022 822-2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We are told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 022 622-6762, www.pozja.waw.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink tagiolini with shrimp as a main. $$ Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 022 641-9544. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-24:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 022 849-5674, www.balgera.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and

treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 022 653-6484. Open daily 11:00-24:00. It’s not often that the waitstaff of a restaurant walks the tight rope between inattentiveness, attentiveness and hovering. Combine the delectable selection of treats for the tummy with a quiet and peaceful ambience and you’ll definitely remember this experience. $$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 022 652-1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. Still huge and classy, and still dishing out excellent Italian food from the famous Tuscany region. Elegant décor, flawless service and an eye-popping wine list all combine to create a lovely dining out experience. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best Italian Cuisine” Winner. Roma (E9) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 022 826-7676; ul. Grottgera 2, tel. 022 841-0133 Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-20:00, www.restauracjaroma.pl Good food and charming Italian-themed decor – wine bottles and grapevines strewen about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$ Bukieteria Roma (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 022 621-0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. Great selection of pastas and fine wines. $$ Rubikon (Służew) ul. Wróbla 3/5, tel. 022 847-6655,

The is looking for people who know about good food and wine to review some of Warsaw’s finer restaurants. Please send a sample review (about 300 words) to: alenart@valkea.com

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www.rubikon.waw.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. This is the one place where you will get a sizeable of the Parma ham and melon starter, along with beautifully-presented Italian dishes rich in herbs and spices. $$$ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 022 406-2037, www.sapori-ditalia.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00. Recommended dishes include the Tuna Salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 022 450-6706. Open Mon-Thur 06:30-23:00; Fri 06:30-22:00; Sat & Sun 07:00-10:30, 12:00-22:00. With a new summer menu bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet at zł.90. Va Bene Ristorante ul. Pruszkowska 13 (A9), tel. 022 824-5059; ul. Kasprzaka 7, tel. 022 632-6454; ul. Zamiany 4, tel. 022 855-3140. www.vabene.com.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. The restaurants offer a traditional Italian menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 022 356-1050, www.vapiano.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00 Fresh salads, thin-crust pizzas and a huge variety of pastas makes this international staple of Italian cuisine a hit. The Warsaw location is bright, spacious and family-friendly. Try the pesto spinach or devilishly spicy diavolo pizzas, or the freshly-made pasta garnished with gorgonzola and walnuts. Venezia (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 022 621-6973, www.venezia.com.pl Open daily 12:00-23:30. Lots of sauces, big portions, basic flavours and no surprises: it’s your average Italian place, but without the complimentary bread basket. We can recommend that you try the penne con spinaci e gorgonzola, and we’ve heard good things about the fresh-baked pizzas. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel),

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tel. 022 558-1094. Open daily 06:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Free parking up to two hours when dining. Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 022 823-8380, www.veraitalia.pl Open daily 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Villa Rossini (E10) ul. Tyniecka 16a, tel. 022 201-3588 www.villa-rossini.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This eclectic joint boasts a combination of premium service and great food that keeps the place packed nearly every night of the week.

japanese & sushi Sushi 77 (multiple locations) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 022 890-1811, Al. Komisji Edukacji Narodowej 49, tel. 022

489-6890, ul. Polna 48, tel. 022 492-2113, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, tel. 022 622-9214, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. Felicjana SławojaSkładkowskiego 4, tel. 022 882-0069. Open daily 12:00-23:00. The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is an Insider favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Akashia (C4) al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 022 636-6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222-0333, www.akashia.pl With two locations, you have a choice of amazing sushi. We recommend the Sushi Set ‘Normal’ (zł.55), which consists of nine sushi and six maki and the very tasty Beef Itame (zł.37). Everything is just perfect. $$ The Art of Caviar and Sushi (C5) al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, Hotel Marriott, tel. 022 630-7179. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. This is one of those places that sounds just like its name – it is an artfully designed, minimalist place with a

long bar, serving sublime sushi, sashimi and caviar delicacies. $$$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 022 621-7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 022 8280020 www.besuto.pl Open Sun-Thurs 12:0022:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00 This intimate little sushi restaurant in the pavilions behind ul. Nowy Świat sports chic decor, excellent sushi and good service. The best sushi deal in the city for quality and price. $

Hana Sushi Jasna Centre Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 022 826-8585, www.hanasushi.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00 This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Hana Sushi Arkadia (A1) Arkadia Shopping Center, al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 022 331-7518; www.hanasushi.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. Don’t be fooled by the crowds, the sushi is passable, if a bit clumsy in its presentation. The staff is unattentive and lacking in terms of timely service. Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 022 622-5955. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Business Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00.

Izumi Sake (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 022 825-7950, www.izumisushi.eu Open daily 12:00-23:00. Not to be mistaken with Izumi Sushi, this chic and petite restaurant is just the place to warm up with Japanese green tea and to satisfy cravings for hot sake and noodle soup. $ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela) tel. 022 825-7950, www.izumisushi.eu Open daily 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the

eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Jazz Point Bistro (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, level -1, tel. 022 222-0910. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. It may be located in the mall but it holds its own in terms of food and ambiance. This jazz spot has got a menu dominated by Asian specialties that are quite original and tasty. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 022 892-0901 Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:0022:00 A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings, lacquered surfaces, rice-papers screens and murals of bamboo stalks. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi – it provides the best of what Korean chefs do: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups. $ Maestria (D2) ul. Podwale 1, tel. 022 635-3061. Open daily 12:00-last guest Located in the Old Town, the restaurant features a typically minimalist sushi bar on the ground level and just up a charming winding staircase, an extravagant dining room on the upper level. Maestria’s fusion menu is a smashing success. Maguro Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 022 621-7460, www.magurosushi.pl Open daily 12:0022:30. East flirts with west at this classy sushi restaurant. Portions are generous and the dishes are creative in taste and appearance. A good lookout point for celeb spotting. $$$ Nippon-Kan (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, Roma Office Center, tel. 022 585-1028. Open daily 12:00-23:00 (last order at 22:00). The “biggest sushi roll bar in Europe” swings by with creative sushi combos. Excellent miso soup and noodle dishes. $$

Nori: Sushi and More (E5) ul. Piekna 11, tel. 022 696-3030, www.norisushi.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00, Sat 14:00-23:00, Sun 14:00-22:00. Most of the Japanese classics are on the extensive menu, from maki to tempura. It may be more California than Kyoto, but Nori serves up some of the most stylish sushi in town. $$

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Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 022 636-0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 022 826-5958, www.sakana.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. With all the usual suspects firmly in place, what sets Sakana apart is its wonderful atmosphere and friendly service – not to mention a superb location. Splash out and get some great sushi – and some of the best maki in the city. Sakana’s new location on ul. Burakowska has got the same good taste with more space and a great location. $$$ Skorupka Sushi (C9) Plac Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 022 892-0689, www.sushi.skorupka.pl A small sushi place with whimsical and chic interiors. Low key but good quality sushi. $ So-An Sushi Club (D6) ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 022 630-8100, www.so-an.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. Another new sushi place; its menu, however, is not limited to sushi only. So far So-An has received rave reviews from readers. $

Sushi Teatr (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 826-4787, www.sushiteatr.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Try the unique flavor of green tea with rice. $$

Tokio (E3) ul. Dobra 17, tel. 022 827-4632. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Still wowing the crowds with top Japanese nosh. Book, especially toward the weekend, and ask for a spot at the sushi bar to view all the culinary action. Their menu will leave you spoiled for choice. $$$

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 420-3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00, Sun 13:00-22:00. Characterized by an inviting bar, this sushi joint offers a myriad of delicious maki and nigiri combinations. Allow the chefs to make up a few specialties based on your favorite ingredients and prepare to get infatuated with the fresh, zesty flavor. $$

Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434-2344, www.tomo.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Excellent. With the maki, sushi and sashimi floating past on little wooden platters, this is the place for all you impatient eaters. The fact that it’s packed every night of the week says it all. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best Sushi” Winner.

Tekeda (H6) ul. Francuska 16a, tel. 022 616-1418, www.sushi.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The sushi floats by on little boats, with cooked seafood options for the raw-fish squeamish worth the trip across the river. $$$

Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, 3rd Floor (Promenada Mall), tel. 022 611-3535, www.yokosushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals, young urban couples and hip families. $$

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jewish Menora (C4) pl. Grzybowski 2, tel. 022 620-3754. Open daily 10:00-22:00. One of the only authentic Jewish restaurant in Warsaw, Menora gives you the option of canteenstyle seating or old-fashioned fine dining for good flavourful traditional Jewish fare and fresh ingredients. Lamb dishes are recommended. $$

latin Conquistador (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 826-5284. Open daily 12:00-23:00, www.conquistador.pl The theme? With all the dark wood and contrasting furniture we’d say New York City, but the menu is fresh with vivid Latino influences. We recommend the shrimps fried in white wine. $$$ Business Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 022 827-2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ Frida (C4) Intercontinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, level 2, tel. 022 328-8888. Frida recently swapped its Mexican cover for a broader menu of Latin-American and steak specialties. Premium ingredients, intriguing spices and the absolute best steaks in the city make this the spot for getting a taste of some real international flavour. $$ La Fiesta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 022 829-8560, ul. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 022 621-3154, www.lafiesta.pl A relaxed vibe and decent Mexican food. $$ Latino Brasserie @ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel. 022 321-8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. The menu says that @ferdy’s specialises in Polish cuisine, combined with an Argentinian flair and this can be summarised in one word: meat. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. $$ Mar Y Sol (D2) ul. Rozbrat 8/1, tel. 022 622-5000, www.mar-y-sol.com.pl Open daily 11:00-

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23:00. Time and time again, we walk by this place with the intention of sampling some tapas and tequila, but the dingy decor never lets us get past the front door. $$

and even better Caesar Salad; their salsa needs a bit of work, but the fresh tortilla shells and nachos more than make up for it. Stick with the guacamole. $$$

Mirador (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 022 436-3434. Open daily 12:00-23:00, www.mirador.pl Spanish atmosphere is definitely here: the décor, music and flamenco performances do make a point. Start with the plate of hot tapas and move on to golden paella and grilled shrimp (gamas ajillo) for a perfectly festive meal. $$

The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 022 826-9021, www.mexican.pl Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00 Corona bottle chandeliers and pretty waitresses in skimpy tops. The cocktails are refreshing and the tortillas fresh. Order anything else and you’ll be reminded it’s a long way to Mexico. $$

Palma (E4) ul. Smolna 8, tel. 022 826-0773, www.palma.waw.pl Open daily 16:00-23:00 (or until the last guest). There are many ‘tropical dishes’ such as the Cuban salad (zł.15) and avocado stuffed with tuna (zł.19). With a wide choice of exotic drinks, such as the Sweet Hawaiian (zł.22) and the Blue Lagoon (zł.17), this is the perfect place to go until you can hit a warm, sunny beach for real. $

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 022 621-8622; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59. Open daily noon till last guest. Whatever you do, be sure to get the Factory Nachos – they’re huge and the guacamole is amazingly good. $$

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 022 898-0925. Open daily 11:00-23:00. www.portucale.pl Transport yourself to Portugal and enjoy true Portugese fare. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific eating-out experience. $$ Restauracja Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (in Złote Trasy Shopping Mall). Tapas fans, rejoice! With the full range of tastes – from spicy veggies to succulent squid – Tapa y Toro is an ideal place to enjoy the most perfect tapas platters. To ignore the fact that you are in a mall, sit at one ofthe middle tables. $$ Tapas Bar/Casa to Tu (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 54 Open daily 12:00-last guest Great cocktails and signature margaritas at the bar upstairs, a sprawling maze of cozy dining rooms downstairs. Four kinds of paella and a broad selection of Spanish and Mediterranean dishes keep this place packed even in the middle of the week. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 022 556-4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas

seafood

Osteria (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 022 621-1646, 022 354-4666. www.osteria.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Warsaw’s best seafood restaurant Osteria is back home on ul. Krucza after completing major renovations. Still one of the best places in Warsaw to savour fresh oysters with a drizzle of lemon and other incredible seafood dishes. Celebrate its grand re-opening with a plate of fresh oysters and champagne. $$

veggie/non-smoking Biosfeera (D10) al. Niepodległości 80, tel. 022 898-0155. Open daily 10:00-22:00, www.biosfeera.com To sum up in one line: no smoking, no alcohol, no meat. This place is the ultimate oasis for vegetarians and vegans, but the hip interior and music and the friendly staff won’t scare away you carnivores. Also very kid-friendly, particularly with the playground close by. $$ Sadhu Café (C1) ul. Wałowa 5, tel. 022 635-8139, www.sadhucafe.pl Open Mon-Fri 16:0023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. The service is outstanding, the wooden décor warm and homey and the deep fried bananas defy description. The wine list is extensive and the lasagne is good enough to make you forget about meat for at least one evening. $$

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Bars, pubs, cafés, clubs

1 update! *

Current issue: 0 1 – 30 September 2 0 0 9 . See more at: www.warsawinsider.pl

RATINGS The hours below are what the bar posts on the door, but closing times can change depending on how many (or how few) people are in the place. The Insider relies on your feedback. If we don’t list your favourite pub, café or club, email us at insider@warsawinsider.pl

wine bars ...........................................................62 bars & pubs .......................................................62 clubs ..................................................................66 jazz clubs...........................................................69

Insider’s Pick

The following categories are a rough indication of how much two-three rounds of drinks will cost. $ $$ $$$ $$$$ (A1)

under zł.50 zł.50-100 zł.150-200 zł.200 and up location on the map delivery non smoking area child friendly

take a date live music outdoor area BOW 2008 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

(of the month):

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

INSIDER’S PICK

Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B powisle.blog.pl Open Mon-Fri 7:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest

ideal for business meetings

ometimes kids in Warsaw have the darnedest ideas Renovating an old PKP terminal and ticket counter is definitely among the most creative. And, to our surprise, it’s turned out to be quite a success. After a soft opening in mid-July, which saw something like

300-400 hipsters spilling out on the sidewalk in the vicinity of Piłsudski Bridge in the trendy Powiśle district of Warsaw. Few guests ventured inside the bar because of the crowds and the heat and the lack of music put a damper on things, but people were still pretty astounded by the massive turnout and took the opportunity to catch up with old friends. Then just about two weeks later, Powiśle launched a massive grill party, starting at about three in the afternoon and wrapped up at the 3am becking of the police, who spent over an

hour chasing hordes of cool kids off the sidewalk. I didn’t make it as early as three as spent most of that Saturday morning and early afternoon nursing a wicked hangover. So by the time I got to Powiśle, the party was already rocking. They’d spilled what seemed like a ton of sand out onto the sidewalk and supplied beachcombers with lounge chairs. I manoeuvred my way through the swarm of model-like nymphs lounging out and some more lively ladies rocking out to classic hits the DJ was spinning. I bopped about for a bit, then popped over to the nearby gas station for a bottle of vodka which is what most of the kids were doing. It seems the gas station maybe make more on liquor than this bar actually does but that’ll probably change once this place is officially open. Because all this, if you can believe it, was only a warmup. It wasn’t till later in the evening that I braved the bar, urged on by a male companion who promised shots of vodka. It was probably the best parties of the summer and the funniest thing is that it was totally spontaneous. I hardly expected to have such a good time, running into tons of pals and spotting a few handsome fellows I hadn’t noticed before on the hipster party circuit. Incumbent fall weather means they’ll have to pack the party back indoors, but with recent renovations, we’ve got high hopes for this cafe — they plan to serve snacks and food starting 7am till late — bar and exhibition space. This “culture kiosque” is definitely one to watch. (AL) >>

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INDEX 2/3 ..........................................62 Amnesia 2...............................66 Axis Bar ...................................63 Bierhalle..................................63 Boathouse ..............................62 Bollywood Lounge ..................66 Bojangles Bar & Lounge..........63 Browarmia...............................63 Buddha Club...........................66 Cafe Kulturalna........................63 Capitol ....................................66 Centralny Basen Artystyczny.....67 Centrum Wina .........................62 C.K. Oboźnia Wine Lounge........................62 CDQ.........................................67 Chłodna 25..............................67 Cinnamon................................67 Club 70....................................67 Club HotL.................................67 Club Rock ................................67 Column Bar .............................63 Confashion..............................67 Dekada....................................67

Discrete ...................................67 Enklawa...................................67 Enoteka...................................62 Essence...................................63 The Eve ...................................68 Hard Rock Cafe........................63 Herezja....................................68 Iguana Lounge ........................68 Indeks.....................................68 In Vino.....................................62 Jadłodalnia Filozoficzna..........68 Jazz Cafe Helicon.....................63 Jazz Point Bistro ......................69 Jazzownia Liberalna................69 Jimmy Bradley's ......................65 Kamienołomy..........................68 KOM ........................................62 Korkociąg ................................62 Klub 35mm .............................68 Klub 55....................................68 Klubokawiarnia.......................68 La Playa Music Bar..................65 Lemon Club.............................68 Le Café/Le Bar.........................65

wine bars Boathouse (Praga) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 022 616-3223, www.wineexpress.com Open daily 12:00-last guest. Boathouse offers a large selection of wines by the glass or bottle in a quaint marineinspired setting. The rotating list includes icons from famous wine producers such as Chateau Margaux, Luis Canas, Rustenburg and Te Mata. Just the spot to enjoy a refreshing white on the lush green lawn. $$ Centrum Wina (Służewiec) ul. Puławska 336, tel. 022 566-3481, www.centrumwina.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0023:00. In the airy atmosphere of a futuristic loft, it is hard not to be smitten by what the amiable Botswana-born chef whips up. Here, the menu changes in biweekly cycles and dishes are both scrumptious and ingenious. And to boot, the inhouse sommelier will match them for you with one of the nearly 700 wines available. $$ C.K. Oboźnia Wine Lounge (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 100, tel. 022 826-8317. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00last guest. An elegant interior, great service and wonderful wines, complimented by memorable meals. A place frequented by food and wine connoisseurs alike. $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 022 831-3443

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Level .......................................68 Living Room ............................65 Lorelei .....................................65 Luztro......................................68 Łysy Pingwin............................65 Mandala..................................68 Maska .....................................68 Melodia...................................68 Mielżynski Wine Bar ...............62 Mono Bar ................................68 Nowy Świat Pavillions .............65 Obiekt Znaleziony...................68 One Bar ...................................65 Opera Club..............................68 Opium.....................................68 Organza ..................................68 Osada......................................65 Panorama Bar .........................65 Paparazzi ................................65 Pewex......................................65 Pistaccio Lobby Bar and Lounge..........................65 Plan B .....................................66 Platinium Club ........................69

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight, Sun 13:00-17:00 Reminiscent of a small Tuscan village with a rustic decor, Enoteka tilts its scale to the minimalist side, while still serving delicious and filling dishes. It’s even got a few goodsized private dining rooms tucked away for more intimate gatherings. $$ In Vino Cafe and Winebar (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 022 827 2970. Open daily noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. If you’re all for the motto “wine as a way of life,” In Vino is just the place. Make sure to book a table as this tiny place can fill up quick. $ KOM (C3) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 022 338-6353, www.komunikat.net Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00 Sat 12:00-17:00 A fine selection of top wines from around the world complemented by a fusion menu. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Wine Bar” Runner-up. Korkociąg (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 022 625-4197, www.korkociag.pl. Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, Sun 14:00-last guest. With the decor being reminiscent of a gaudy small-town restuarant, Korkociąg, or “Corkscrew,” proves you can’t judge a book by its cover. Offers a variety of

Po drugiej stronie lustra .........66 Polyester .................................66 Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro ........66 Pub Lolek................................66 Regeneracja ............................69 Saturator.................................66 Sense......................................66 Sheesha Bar ...........................66 Sketch.....................................66 Skład Butelek .........................69 Space......................................69 Surf Spot.................................66 Szlafrok...................................66 Time Cafe................................66 Tygmont ..................................69 Utopia .....................................69 Vena........................................66 Vinarius...................................62 Vinyl ........................................69 W Oparach Absurdu ...............66 You & Me Bar..........................66 Zoo..........................................69 Zwiaż mnie..............................69

Hungarian food, and luckily enough, the Harslevelu dessert and the great wines make up for the lack of authenticity of the food. $ Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 636-8709 Open daily 9:00-23:00 Mielżyński’s is without a doubt one of the best wine bars and tapas-style restaurants in the city. Located in the ultra-fashionable enclave at ul. Burakowska, it combines the finest wines known to man with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Wine Bar” Winner. Vinarius (E2) ul. Bednarska 28/30. tel. 022 828-8861, www.vinarius.pl, Open daily 11:00-23:00 Opened by a Kraków-based importer, this place functions without a wine list, and instead a sommelier chooses a good-qualitywine-for price for the customer based on preferences. The main courses are scribbled on a blackboard and are passable, but the desserts are very good. $

bars & pubs 2/3 (D4) ul. Bracka 2/3 A tiny, funky, laid-back vintagestyle dive bar hidden away in the courtyard of Bracka, where the drinks are dirt cheap. Recommended for those who need a break from too much posh living. $

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Axis Bar (A4) Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre, ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 022 356-5575. Open daily 17:00-01:00. Contemporary design, awesome music, cool ambiance and a dizzying selection of vodkas. A bit out of the way but good for an after-work drink if you’re in the area. $$ Bierhalle (A1) Arkadia Shopping Mall, tel. 022 323-6855. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00; ul. Nowy Świat 64 (D4), tel. 022 827-6177. The menu combines Polish and German dishes creatively. With a VIP room, it’s the perfect place for a business chat over beer or an office party. $$ Bojangles Bar and Lounge (C5) al. Jerozolimskie 45, Polonia Palace Hotel, tel. 022 318-2833, www.bojangles.pl Open Mon-Sat: 16:00-01:00, Sun: 10:30-01:00. Stationed on the ground floor of the classy Polonia Palace Hotel, this is a cool respite from the buzzing masses and traffic gridlock plaguing the city centre. $$

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12:00-00:00. An offshoot of Nowy Świat’s Sense. Features an inventive menu of global food, from veggie samosas to Obama burgers. The cocktails, concocted by Danny Undhammar, are hands-down the best in the city. Breakfast served weekdays 8:00-13:00 and weekends 12:00-16:00. Reasonable prices too. $

Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 022 826-5455, biuro@browarmia.pl, www.browarmia.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The place brews its own beer, which makes it great for a ‘guys’ night out’. $ Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 022 656-6281, www.kulturalna.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, Sun 15:00-last guest. Kulturalna is a great place to visit for a drink. Its location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. $ Column Bar (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 022 551-1000. Open daily 10:00-02:00. The best martinis in town and a beautiful art deco interior. Pricey, but with very tasty lunch offers and beautiful cakes. $$ Essence (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434-2083, www.essence-cafe.pl Open Mon-Thurs 08:000:00, Fri 08:00-01:00, Sat 12:00-01:00, Sun

Hard Rock Cafe (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222-0700, www.hardrock.com. Open daily 12:00-02:00. It’s hard to miss the huge guitar growing out of the pavement in front of the Hard Rock. The Warsaw branch of this legendary establishment is chock-full of all the classic memorabilia and a hint of Nashville flavour. A great live music venue and hamburger-hotspot. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Live Music” Runner-up. Jazz Cafe Helicon (C1) Freta 45/47, tel. 022 635-9505. Open daily 11:00-0:00/last guest Surrounded by mirrors, just the place for lovers of jazz and other music. Tasty snacks and beer make this a perfect stop off the beaten track in the Old Town/New Town area. Back garden open in summer. $

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BOYS BEHAVING BADLY TEXT BY THE MAYOR

Welcome Back to Warsaw! “Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.” – Clemenza, The Godfather 1972 Bottle service at Warsaw clubs could set you back anywhere from 200-400 zlots a pop depending on your poison. We started out with a few bottles of Bols and Jack accompanied by all the possible mixers. Ace did some serious damage to his AmEx Gold over the next few hours. The crowd at Eve was awesome, filled up with lots of old friends who I haven’t seen for years. The Eve offers a great party atmosphere on weekends, but also allows some privacy at the tables if you just want to catch up with what is f The Godfather was a Polish flick, you’d be dropping the new with everyone. It also happens to be the choice venue for cannoli and making a grab for the vodka and herring. ‘hen nights’ with 3 sets of girls celebrating their friends Spend some time abroad and you’ll find yourself craving impending doom. We infiltrated one these sets and invited an icy shot of Wyborowa paired with chunks of pickled fish. some of the ladies to join our group. Over the years, I’ve attended quite a few going-away After the party started to die down, we headed next door to parties for friends who have finished their stint in Poland and their sister club, Platinium, which is just packed on weekends. were bidding farewell. So it was a nice change to help throw a The party here rages on till 4am, so you have to make a ‘Welcome Back Party’ for Ace, who has been living and decision if it is time to go home and sleep with the fishes or working in sunny L.A. for the past 9 months. The second Ace you keep on going till the sun comes up. You can always hit up was back in town, I knew it was time to party. Capitol on the other side of the Saxon Gardens to see if their After inviting the usual suspects from all over, we knew we massive parties are still thumping to the morning light. would have to recruit some local talent to help even the On a final note, make sure you check out one of the odds. In Summer, Warsaw tends to empty out during the esSence of Alkoteka international business mixers at weekends, so after coming up empty at LaPlaya Beach Bar Essence every other Monday. Great drink specials, a hot and Lolek, we headed over to the outdoor section of Hard vinyl-spinning DJ and sizzling hostesses running around Rock Café. There, we ran into a group of girls from the serving great classic and novel cocktails all night long. Lithuanian Volleyball team who we’d met and partied with Plus a themed menu to fit the drink list – such as bison the night before at Enklawa. We made them an offer they burgers at the recent Żubrówka night. Check out the next couldn’t refuse and took them along for the ride. esSence of Alkoteka bash on 7 September. Since we knew it would be a long night of drinking, we decided to load up on some carbs at Vapiano, one of Warsaw’s recent additions to the Italian restaurant scene. Vapiano Vapiano has quickly become one of my favourite restaurants ul. Taśmowa 7 in Warsaw as it’s got a unique style, plenty of seating and tel. 022 826-8585 some of the best pasta east of Sicily. The owners of this place www.vapiano.pl should receive an award for the training of their employees – they’re the most friendly and professional bunch I’ve seen The Eve and they truly seem to enjoy their jobs. For those of us who Pl. Piłsudskiego 2 complain about lousy service, Vapiano is leading the way to Capitol tel. 022 827-5242, show that good service with a smile is possible in Warsaw ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 022 www.theeve.pl and just at the hotels. It may be a bit out of the way in 826-8570, www.clubcapitol.pl Mokotów but it’s ideal for a chowing down a fresh pizza pie Platinium pre- or -post-shopping spree at Galeria Mokotów. Essence ul. Fredry 6 We contacted our friends at The Eve to reserve some prime ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434tel. 022 596-4666 real estate next to the bar and the dance floor. They know we 2083, www.essence-cafe.pl www.platiniumclub.pl never ask a second favour if we are refused the first, so The Eve staff hooked us up with a great location and our own waitress.

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Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (B4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 022 654-6656. Open 10:00-last guest. All-day breakfast served Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. With Guinness on tap, an all-day Irish breakfast and some of the friendliest staff in the city, this is the best – some say the only – Irish pub in Warsaw. Just the place to have a pint of Guinness and watch the game. $$ La Playa Music Bar (Praga) ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, tel. 022 331-4975 www.laplaya.pl. Open Wed-Thurs 20:00-24:00, Fri 20:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 12:00-last guest La Playa is a real beach – with sand, lounge chairs, beach balls galore and even a volleyball net. The drinks are fruity and the view of the Old Town across the river is remarkable. Check out the free Salsa lessons on Sundays. $ Le Café/Le Bar at the Novotel Hotel (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 94/96, tel. 022 621-0271. Boasting a great location and interior, it’s an good “just to get a drink” or have a business meeting. $ Living Room (D3) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 022 826-3928. Open daily 12:00-02:00. A two-floor, beautifully-decorated, comfy wellness bar and restaurant, with an extensive number of drinks and dishes. $$ Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, www.blog.lorelei.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 12:00last guest. With the aim to attract Warsaw’s funkier inhabitants, Lorelei is a mix between a café, bar and club with eccentric graffiti and comic book interior. Try avoiding complicated alcohol combinations or risk dire hangovers the next morning. $ Łysy Pingwin (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 11, tel. 022 618-0256 Open Sun-Thur 15:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 15:00-last guest Zebra-print, low-slung couches and a rotating art collection set the tone in this relaxed little pub, where the beer is Czech, local artists are ubiquitous and the bartender is always up for a chat. Grab the window seat and you’ll find that the “Bald Penguin” is the perfect place to while away an afternoon, a Saturday night or both. $ Nowy Świat „Pavilions” (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 and Foksal A maze of Warsaw’s most best dive bars, from the legendary Pewex, breezy Windigo, heavy red Klepsydra or hookah-friendly Kafajka.

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GOING OUT Perfect for a night of carousing with your pals beatnik-style, this is the place. $ One Bar (C4) Intercontinental Warszawa, ul. Emilii Plater 49, Level 2. Live piano music and classic interiors make this the perfect spot for an evening drink. A definite must if you’re nostalgic for an old-fashioned American bar. $$ Osada (A6) ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 nr. 19, tel. 022 668-9603, www.arco-osada.pl Osada translates to “settlement” and the main idea behind this place is a laid-back atmosphere in heated tent. The beer is cold, the food is your basic meaty fare. $ Panorama Bar (C5) Top of the Marriott – 40th floor, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630-5074, 022 630-6306 Open daily 18:00-02:00 The drinks are quite good – if on the pricey side at about zł.30-35 a pop, while the décor of the two-floor venue is pretty darn glamorous. But the rule is to avoid being overly fussy if you want service with a smile. The crowd is a attractive mix of local businessmen, expats and the city’s usual movers-and-shakers. $$$ Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 022 828-4219. paparazzi.com.pl/pl/warszawa/ Open MonThur & Sun 16:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 16:0002:00. Crammed with pictures of first- and second-rate celebrities. It’s the meeting point for the fancier Warsaw crowd – lots of suits and their over-made-up female companions. $$$ Pewex (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 22/28 pavillion nr. 28, tel. 022 826-5481 Open daily 15:00-last guest For anyone interested in Poland’s postCommunist past, the word “Pewex” certainly rings a bell. Pewex bar, hidden among the pavilions on the backstreets of Nowy Świat, is charming, low-key and its authentic Seventies-style décor is chic enough for all you style mavens. $ Pistaccio Lobby Bar and Lounge (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, Hilton Warsaw Hotel and Covention Centre, tel. 022 356-5555. Open daily 08:00-01:00. Pistaccio is the chic and super-trendy bar and lounge located in the Hilton’s lobby. This is definitely the place for making good impressions and stimulating conversation over classic cocktails, aged scotches, exotic liquors and fine wines. $$

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 30 September 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Plac Zbawiciela), tel. 0508 316-976, www.planbe.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest, Sun 16:00last guest The coolest dive bar in Warsaw. Here, ther’s nothing sleek or glossy, it’s strictly for the artsy crowd who are in for the beer, cigarettes and some good music. $ Po drugiej stronie lustra (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 5, tel. 0501 048-471 www.po2stronielustra.com Open daily 10:0024:00 With a name that roughly translates as “Through the Looking Glass”, this bar embraces Lewis Carroll’s finely-tuned sense of the surreal. It is an antique chest of drawers, the couches are soft leather, a wood fire crackles in the corner and the walls are deep red – a bit like your grandma’s house, if your grandma ran a massage parlour. $ Polyester (C1) ul. Freta 49/51, tel. 022 831-4636. Open daily 11:00-0:00/last guest. Polyester has a funky laid-back vibe that brings back the best of all decades between the ‘60s and today. The menu offers a range of classic drinks, beers and shots. Drink up to the sound of classic hits. $ Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022 8267936 Open 24 hours. To those in the know, the newest Gessler eatery is simply called ‘Bistro’. Almost entirely based on word of mouth, this place has become one of Warsaw’s top latenight destinations. One of its prime attributes is the fact that it’s open 24 hours and serves food/vodka shots/beer. You’ll find it packed to the brim at two, three, four and even five am. $ Pub Lolek (B8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 022 825-6202 www.lolekpub.pl Open: daily 11:00-03:00. Pub Lolek guarantees a nice and friendly atmosphere, with Polish cuisine and live concerts every day. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling. $ Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 0504 353-772, www.saturator.art.pl Open daily 20:00-last guest One of Praga’s most eminent enclaves of cool, this joint is entirely different from all the others around. It’s got a distinctly rugged vintage feel and a bit of a camp vibe. The crowd is crazy-cool, made of colourful types like djs, artists, photographers and struggling filmmakers. $

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Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826-6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00last guest; Sat-Sun 12:00-last guest Sense is not only one of Warsaw’s most popular restaurants, it also boasts a brilliant vodka bar that serves up dozens of unique signature cocktails. The watermelon martini is our favourite but you can’t go wrong here no matter what you get. The perfect place to kick off a raucous night on the town. $$ BOW 2008 “Best Cocktails” Runner-up. Sheesha Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. 022 828-2525, www.sheesha.pl Open Sun-Thur 16:00-03:00; Fri 16:00-07:00; Sat 12:00-03:00. If you feel like smoking a hookah, this is the place to do it. Dark eclectic interior, tasty Mezzeh platter and sheesha. $$ Sketch Bar & Bistro (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 0602 762 764, www.sketch.pl Bistro open daily 10:00-1:00, restaurant open Mon-Fri 17:00-1:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-1:00 The bright, graphic interiors are attracting a fashionable crowd of all ages. The international spread of beers is a bit pricey but drop by for happy hour 17:00-19:00 daily and enjoy a tasty import for half-price. $$ Surf Spot Drink & Tapas Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 3 (vis a vis Organza), mob. 516-030-374 www.surf-spot.pl Open Mon-Fri 20:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 18:00last guest. Surf Spot is a local hot spot with a surfer’s atmosphere, perfect for organising a beach party. $ Szlafrok (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 022 828-6477. Open 17:00-02:00. With a name that means dressing gown, it immediately invokes images of kitsch gold braid, turn of the century sofas and lavish décor. A regular stop on the Theatre Square circuit. $$ Time Cafe (E4) ul. Smolna 40, tel. 604-595-323 www.timecafe.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00 This timely treasure is hidden in a courtyard smack in the centre of the city. The interiors are partly industrial and partly vintage, which makes for a charmingly eclectic combination. The ambiance is magical, the furniture and artworks are available for sale and the place hosts live jazz concerts on a regular basis. $ Vena (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. 022 628-2402.

Open daily 10:00-last guest. This bar behind the Novotel hotel boasts inexpensive drinks and a palatable fusion menu. $ W Oparach Absurdu (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 6, tel. 0660 780-319 www.oparyabsurdu.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest If the five-foot tarantula above the door doesn’t tip you off, the hordes inside will: this is one of the funkiest bars in town. With nooks, crannies and alcoves bursting with fanciful brick-a-brack and regular live music, it attracts a mixed crowd. Step inside and get lost in a world of tipsy, whimsical absurdity. $ You & Me Bar (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 420-3434, www.youandmebar.pl Open Mon.-Thur. 08:3001:00; Fri. & Sat. 08:30-03:00; Sun. 12:0024:00. This stretch of Żurawia is among the hippest streets in Warsaw so it’s hard to go wrong. The interiors are very red and rather flash. It’s a good spot for a pre-party drink and the updated menu looks pretty good although your Insider has yet to try it. $$

clubs Amnesia 2 (D5) ul. Wspólna 62, tel. 022 424-6665 www.amnesia.pl Open 12:00-last guest. This restaurant serves international food and turns into a salsa-hotspot on “Tropicana” evenings. Attracts a low-key crowd that likes to get wild on the dance floor on weeknights and weekends to latin rythms (Thurs), ‘80s and ‘90s hits (Fri-Sat), plus a bit of drag burlesque (Wed). $ Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Przeskok 2, tel. 022 827-0283, www.bollywoodclub.pl. Open: Mon-Fri 12:00last guest, Fri & Sat 16:00-last guest. Beats straight from India set the Mumbai mood. Expect a lot of singing, dancing and sheesha smoke in the midst of a funky festival of lights and colour. Loosen your collar and hit the dance floor after you’ve knocked back a few. $ Buddha Club (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 022 828-6771, www.galeriabali.pl Open Fri & Sat 20:00-last guest. An authentic venue with chill out & Indonesian music and tasty drinks. Only open for private parties. $ Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 022 826-8570, www.clubcapitol.pl This club has a whole lot of ambition to make it big on Warsaw’s party

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scene and it’s got a lot going for it – massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. The crowd is mixed – spoiled twentysomething and slick businessmen all looking for a good time. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events. $$$ CDQ (A1) ul. Burakowska 12, tel. 022 636-2800. Open Thur-Sat 21:00-last guest. CDQ is another one of those hippie joints. Located on one of the backstreets near Arkadia, it’s a nondescript little building on the outside, but it’s absolutely popping inside. Sure to awaken the hidden hippie in you. $

Centralny Basen Artystyczny ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 022 339-0706, www.basen.art.pl. Hours vary, check website for details. CBA used to be a swimming pool but is now a hot night spot and artistic centre. It hosts parties, movie screenings, concerts, dance classes, exhibitions, and has 2 theatre stages, a bike rental spot and a bookshop. $ Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 022 620-2413 www.chlodna25.pl Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A cafe in the daytime, beatnick-chic meeting spot in the night. Chłodna 25 has got the laid-back vibe of a house party. The artsy crowd is always cool, the bartenders pleasant, the beer cold and the soundtrack a blend of classic hits and new electro beats. Stroll down to the cellar to rock out till the wee hours. $

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Cinnamon (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 022 323-7600. Open daily 09:00-last guest. Cinnamon is known as one of the hottest party places for the expat ‘men in suits’ crowd. These days it's slightly shabbier and less crowded. $$ Club 70 (B3) ul. Waliców 9, tel. 022 654-6767, www.club70.pl Open Mon-Sat 20:00-last guest. The place to be if you’re tired of lounging around on velvet sofas and want to get up and groove. The DJ spins a mix of hits from the 70s, 80s and 90s, bringing Saturday Night Fever into the 21st Century. $ Club Hotl (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022 8267466, www.clubhotl.pl Open daily 21:00-last guest. A bit drab compared to Platinium but it's got space and a variety of music. $$ Club Rock (B10) ul. Racławicka 99, tel. 022 844-6394, www.clubrock.pl. Open Thurs-Sat 20:00-last guest. Warsaw’s longest running ‘hard-rock – head banger’ bar, priding itself on its rock’n’roll heart and famous grill, is just the place to be if you’re a rocker at heart who hates to miss out on hard tunes and live shows. Don’t be intimidated by the bikers, Club Rock is a totally friendly place. $ Confashion (D2) ul. Moliera 2/4, tel. 022 6928585, www.confashion.pl Open Mon-Thur

See this 2 Over 0,000 people in Warsaw do as well.

12:00-01:00; Fri 12:00-03:00; Sat 17:00-03:00; Sun 17:00-00:00. Despite the iffy name, Confashion has got lots of potential. The drinks are perfection, the décor sleek and inviting, the upper level is perfect for intimate get-togethers and the soul and R&B-based repertoire finally gives a glam alternative to getting squished in the back section of Platinium. $$ Dekada (A6) ul. Grójecka 19/25, tel. 022 823-5558 Open Wed 19:00-last guest, Thur-Sat 20:00last guest. Music and decor-wise, Dekada is a blast from the past with hits from the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Just the place to go if you’re looking to party it up circa 1999. $$ Discrete (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 (entrance on ul. Nowogrodzka), tel. 0-785 717-615 www.discrete.pl Open daily 21:00-last guest. Located in a corner of the parking lot behind Cafe 6/12, it may be hard to find for some. Located on the cellar level and packed with a lengthy, fully-stocked bar and sizable dance floor, this is a place for those who like to dance it up to Bollywood rythms and Saturday Night Fever. Usually zł.10-15 entrance fee. $ Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 022 827-3151, www.enklawa.com Open Wed.-Sat 21:0004:00. Situated on ul. Mazowiecka, Enklawa has become a destination on the journey of a wild night out. Very chrome and glass, the interior is a bit drab, but the music (a lot of hits) keeps the crowds flowing in. $$

Karol Kosiorek, kkosiorek@valkea.com tel. 022 639-8567 #150 mob. 0606 911-955

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 30 September 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 022 827-5242, www.theeve.pl Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest, Sat 20:00-last guest. Created by the masterminds behind Warsaw’s number one nightspot, Platinium, The Eve balances the casualty of the lounge bar with elegance. The music is fantastic, so no worries for those who dread repetitive house music. Just the place to start or finish a high-powered glamorous night out filled with energetic dancing. $$$ Herezja Restaurant and Club (B3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 022 654-5099, www.herezja.com. Open sun-thurs 12:0023:00, fri-sat 12:00-last guest While its location may seem a bit sketchy for some, tucked between garages and tanning booths, Herezja has the potential to become a pretty hip spot in the coming months. The Bollywood-style decor is pretty remarkable, although the main fare leaves something to be desired. The late-nite drink option on the weekend is a much better bet. $$ Iguana Lounge (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 022 851-2323, www.iguanalounge.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:0023:00, Sat 09:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00 With fantastic cocktails and comfy sofas and armchairs to sink into, this place is outstanding for an after-work drink or a date. Enjoy the nu jazz, Brazilian bossa, salsa as you kick back.$$ Indeks (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 24, tel. 022 826-9239. Open 11:00-02:00. A student haunt, this is the kind of place to hang out if you feel young enough. $ Jadłodajnia Filozoficzna (E3) ul. Dobra 33/35, mob. 0608-422-386, www.filozoficzna.art.pl Open Mon-Fri 17:0002:00; Sat & Sun 17:00-last guest. No two chairs in the place are anything alike, but this does not make ‘The Philosopher’s Diner’ a dive. A fun place to hang out and drink ‘live’ unpasteurised beer and enjoy a true example of Warsaw’s indie scene. $ Kamieniołomy (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (enter from ul. Ossolińskich), tel. 022 828-4558 Open daily 16:00-last guest. Located in the Hotel Europejski and once an institution on Warsaw’s disco scene in the Sixties, the club is a blast from the past and a cool place if you don’t mind a bit of kitsch. $

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Klub 35mm (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złoty Terasy, Multikino) Open Mon-Thurs. 17:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 17:0002:00 On the fifth floor of the trendy shopping centre, Złoty Terasy, above the cinema, is a posh Meet-the-Jetsons-style club overlooking the city below. White and silver egg shaped chairs line the non-smoking bar occupied by pretty people sipping Mojitos. $$ Klub 55 (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1 (enter from ul. E. Plater) www.klub55.pl Klub 55 isn’t exactly the poshest club on the Warsaw scene, but it definitely hosts the hottest electro parties in town, with special guest djs from all over the world. Klub 55 isn’t for the squeamish, but if you’re in for nonstop music and dancing, this is it. $ Klubokawiarnia (D3) Corner of ul. Czackiego and ul. Świętokrzyska. OK, here’s the deal: it’s hard to find, there’s no guarantee that you’ll get in and if you’re after wine or martinis, you’re out of luck. But with the most kitsch PRL-propaganda décor in the city, you can dance the night away under the disapproving gazes of Lenin, Brezhnev and all the other Marxist cronies. $ Lemon Club (C3) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, www.clublemon.pl Open 19:00-last guest. Located in the heart of the city, with good music and a great atmosphere. Café Bar Lemon is conveniently located next door, where you can eat something to build up more energy to return to the club for more fun. $ Level (D4) ul. Chmielna 9a, tel. 022 827-6305, www.levelclub.pl Open Mon-Thur 12:00-23:00, Fri & Sat 14:00-04:00, Sun 14:00-23:00. Funky music, vivid individualist décor and its proximity to the other night life joints, make Level a place that’s good for a low-key night of drinks and dancing. $

international DJs making the most of the limited area upstairs with mega bass. $ Maska (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, tel. 022 8280852. Open Mon-Thur & Sun 12:00-last guest, Fri & Sat 12:00-21:00. The decorations are rich and sophisticated, the atmosphere is dark and firelit. Points are for the drinks. $ Melodia (D-E4) ul. Nowy Świat 3/5, tel. 022 583-0180, www.klubmelodia.pl Open Mon-Sat 16:00-last guest. Here you’re bound to rub shoulders with stylish party people in an upscale atmosphere. $$ Mono Bar (D4) ul. Mazowiecka 11a, tel. 022 827-4557, www.monobar.pl Open Wed.-Sat 17:00-last guest. You’ll be sucked into the crazy 70’s and the bartender offers a really long list of drinks. In addition to the regular Wednesday Latino night and Thursday jam sessions, you can also check the club’s website for event info. $ Obiekt Znaleziony (C3) ul. Małachowskiego 3 (cellar of the Zachęta National Gallery), tel. 022 828-058 www.obiekt.blog.pl Open Mon-Thrus. & Sun 12:00- 01:00, Fri & Sat 12:00-last guest. Located in the cellar of the Zachęta gallery, this club is a modern and minimalist artsy gathering spot for the alternative crowd. $ Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, The Grand Opera Theater, pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 022 828-7075, www.operaclub.pl Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. Opera gets a whole load of points for its majestic entrance. A mysterious blend of Balinese-inspired styling and a sprawling dance floor. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best Night Out” Runner-up.

Luztro (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6. www.luztro.pl Open Wed-Sat 23:00-last guest This is one of the most notorious and decadent after-hours clubs in the city. Those clubbers who just can’t get enough wander in here at the break of dawn to dance till noon. Not recommended. $

Opium Pleasure Lounge (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11 (pl. Teatralny), tel. 022 827-7161. Pub and Restaurant open Mon-Fri 12:00-01:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-02:00; Music and Dance Club open Wed.-Sat 22:00last guest. With Buddha sculptures, bold orange colours and cushions on the floor, Opium is the last word in chill-out. $$

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 0662-019-666. Open daily 12:00-last guest; kitchen closes at 21:00 during the week and 22:00 Sat-Sun. Past midnight, the bar upstairs transforms the place into a full-fledged house club with

Organza (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 022 828-3232, www.kluborganza.pl Open daily 20:00-last guest. Long, but fast moving queues ought to give you a hint of the popularity of this club. Once you’ve braved the line and doormen,

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you will have to brave the crammed dance floor and bar. Expect typical club music and a youngish crowd. $$ Platinium Club (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 022 596-4666, wwwplatiniumclub.pl Open Mon-Thur 12:0001:00, Fri 12:00-05:00, Sat 16:00-05:00. Platinium has whipped up the perfect recipe for the most glamorous, most decadent, most devil-may-care dancing-till-dawn hotspot in the city. This place definitely attracts the rich, the beautiful… and the plastic. $$$ BOW 2008 “Best Night Out” Winner. Regeneracja ul. Puławska 61, tel. 022 845-4992. Open daily 11:00-last guest; late-night menu 22:00-24:00. This is where the hippest folks in Mokotów hang out. When the weather warms up, it’s a trick trying to get a table. Expect lots of musicians with strollers and puppies in tow. Salads and daily specials are pretty good. $ Skład Butelek (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 602 338 824 Open weekends from 19:00-03:00 Whether you’re heading to Skład Butelek from any of the other two clubs in the 11 Listopada enclave in Praga or it’s your primary destination, you’ll be thrilled to find a truly unique bar. $ Space (Wola) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 0606-617-228 www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00, open for private events throughout the week.

The only real “clubbers” club on this side of the river. Lots of space, Ibiza-style decor and thumping beats make this the place to go only for die-hard fans of techno music. $$

it’s like being the midst of some 70s-era funkfest. Sample the sophisticated stock of premium Polish and Lithuanian light and dark beer (zł.7-8). $

Utopia (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel.022 827-1540. Open daily 21:00last guest. Warsaw’s glammest nightclub is also the only real gay club in the city. Impossible to get into unless you’ve got the right connections or a really great hairuct. Pricey drinks, loads of champagne and funky club hits rocking the soundsystem until way past dawn. $$

jazz clubs

Vinyl Club & Restaurant (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 022 438-9295. Open: Restaurant daily: 11:00-23:00; Drink-Bar 17:00-last guest; Club 22:00-6:00. A gigantic retro Gramophone glued to the facade of the building and an over-sized vinyl disc on the door signals the location. Occasionally hosts international DJs but the low ceilings and dark walls are a downer. $ Zoo (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 13, tel. 022 827-6044, www.klubzoo.pl. This place is fairly cheap at around zł.15 per cocktail, and fans of techno music will be in heaven here. The best thing about Zoo is that it’s not so tough to get into. $$ Zwiąż Mnie (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, 1st Floor Open Wed. & Thur 18:00-midnight; Fri & Sat 20:00-05:00 Even before you walk in, you can tell how cool it is by peeking up at the windows to get a glimpse all the brightly patterned interiors. Once you’re in,

Jazz Point Bistro (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, level -1, tel. 022 222-0910. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. It may be located in the mall but it holds its own in terms of food and ambiance. This jazz spot has got a menu dominated by Asian specialties that are quite original and tasty. $$ Jazzownia Liberalna (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 022 635-3769. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest This place seems to have it all – location, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that aren’t mindblowing. It’s got a pretty attractive music offer and the concerts on most Thursdays and Saturdays are great. With an edgy interior, great music and tasty affordable food, it’s one of our favourites! $$ Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowieczka 6/8, tel. 022 828-3409 www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00 For true-blue jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club. Hosts toe-tapping performances on two stages from both newbies and jazz greats. $ BOW 2008 “Best Live Music” Winner.

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Welcome to Warsaw BY HANNAH SKAANILD AND KAY BROWNSEY

Witamy! For those positively, absolutely new to Warsaw, consider yourself welcome! ere are a few Insisder’s tips on getting settled in the Polish capital, in a city that’s simultaneously been termed a new European ‘hot spot’ and one of the least interesting cities in the world!

fascinating host country. The American Bookstore is a good place to start as it offers a good range of literature based in both facts and legends of Polish history and culture, such as Norman Davies’ comprehensive look at Polish history in few. And don’t forget the milk bars! God’s Playground or Warsaw’s demise in Menus often reflect what is in season so Speak up Rising ‘44. look out for buttery chanterelles and The most helpful sentence in the luscious charries in summer, asparagus Polish language? That would probably Get connected and strawberries in spring and dozens of be: Nie mowię po polsku (I don’t speak Setting up the television, internet and varieties of apples in the fall, plus no polish). Certainly a useful phrase when telephone connections can be a top ‘to- end of yummy preserves to hold you you first arrive in Warsaw. You’ll find do’ but may end up being be one of the through the winter. yourself saying this a lot but eventually last to be ticked off the list. Television you’ll have to get acquainted with at least options include Polsat and Cyfra which Supermarket sweep the basics. It’s quite useful when buying have a range of English language It is unlikely that you will ‘go without’ stamps at the post office or some choices. Other satellite services with a in Warsaw although you may have to cabbage at the grocery store. There are wider choice of channels are also embark on a little treasure hunt around plenty of instruction books available at available through www.satservice.pl. Be the city to get the best range and quality bookshops (American Bookstore, Empik) prepared for a bit of waiting as setting of ingredients. At the top end are the but classes (group or private) are always up these services tends to take time. In supermarkets Alma, Bomi and Piotr i the most effective. See the Polish for the meantime head to Nowy Świat for a Pawel or if you prefer the French Foreigners section in Education for plethora of cafés with a wi-fi hookup. hypermarket option Auchan, E Leclerc listings. If you’ve got kids, choosing the and Carrefour all have outlets in and right school is key to securing your Stepping out around Warsaw. For more of a shopping children’s future and happiness. There There’s s always something going on ‘experience’, try the local markets or are a number of international schools in in Warsaw whether you are looking out bazaars, like Hala Mirowska on Al. Jana Warsaw, with the American and the for sporting events, music festivals or Pawla II. Or you can shop from your sofa British Schools topping the ranks in terms exhibitions. Check Warsaw Insider at www.frisco.pl. of prestige (and yes, price). Schedule a calendar listings for info on the biggest family tour of a few schools you may be art, music and party info or log on to the The great outdoors interested in to find the right fit. helfpul English-language website Warsaw is brimming with beautiful www.gowarsaw.eu. parks and green spaces so you can Altogether now recharge you batteries whatever the Warsaw has a plenty of community Café culture season. Top of the list in central Warsaw groups that facilitate contacts between Not just for when you’re in desperate are Lazienki Park, Saski Park or across expats of different backgrounds or need of some wi-fi and espresso. Cafés the river at Park Skaryszewski. For a interests. Joining a group like the are abundant in Warsaw and many of garden with a view, head to the roof of American Friends of Warsaw (AFW) or them go beyond the mainstream formula the University Library (Dobra 55/56). If the International Womens Group (IWG) and offer great brews and unique décor you have a picnic, football or dog in tow, instantly gets you in on the social scene local gems. Our personal faves include head for the less formal spaces of Pole and a helps you locate a buddy or two Kafka, Cafe Próżna, Chłodna 25, Przegryź, Mokotowskie, Powsin or Konstancin. with whom to explore the city. Check the Filtry Cafe and Rue de Paris (check cafe Community Contacts listings for the listings for address info). And when Branch out whole range of expat lifelines in Warsaw. nostalgia hits, there’s always the trusty Discover the rest of Poland. Head to new Starbucks on Nowy Świat. Kraków, Poznań, Wrocław, Toruń and Culture vulture Gdansk to start. For a sporting break Don’t satisfy yourself the typical Dine local head to the Tatra mountains and the assortment of guidebooks that present It’s not all bigos, borsch and pig’s resort of Zakopane or for watersports try info along the lines of a Xenophobe’s feet. Get out there and try some hearty the Mazury Lakes or the Baltic coast. Guide to Poles. Take the opportunity to Polish food at Warsaw’s best traditional Driving on Polish roads can be a read up and understand the complex restaurants: Tradycja, Różana, U Fukiera, nightmare so you may find the train a history and local customs of this Belvedere and Dom Polski, to name a quicker and less stressful option.

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LIFESTYLE Lifestyle and beauty basics

THIS MONTH:

7 UPDATES *

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INDEX Accommodation ....................72 hotels ......................................72 apartments..............................73 other cities ..............................73

fitness clubs............................76

Health & Beauty....................74 spas & salons..........................74

Education ..............................79 Polish for foreigners................79

Community Contacts .............77 houses of worship ..................79

Insider’s Pick

preschools ..............................80 schools....................................81 Medical ................................82 private clinics .........................82 emergencies ...........................83 24h pharmacies......................83

relocation companies .............83 travel agencies........................83 taxis.........................................83

(of the month):

ANNA J. KUTOR

HOT FIND

Scottish Ranch (Skarboszewo) Skarboszewo 30 tel. 602 613-889, 602 227-086 szkockieranczo@patkon.pl, www.szkockieranczo.pl

Transportation......................83 car rental .................................83

he best part about the Scottish Ranch is that you don’t have to take Ryannair to get there. In the secluded locality of Skarboszewo, you find a great retreat – rolling cornfields, a pleasant apple orchard and the shaggy kyloe of the highlands grazing in the distance. Follow the equally shaggy black Russian terrier Rasputin inside to find the cigar parlour welcoming you in for a nightcap. Not surprisingly, the flagship specialty of the estate is lean beef, skilfully prepared by the

Japanese chef Kazuya. Not only does he partition the meat himself, but also personally selects other ingredients at the farmers’ market or fish store, uses apples grown in the orchard and grows his own herbs in the garden. A stay at the Scottish Inn revolves around the dining table. We started with the carpaccio with young beet greens (zł.29) which was good, though not as thinly cut as tradition calls for. We also tried the salmon on vegetable salad with spinach on puff pastry (zł.31), quite a pleasing combination, as well as asparagus with Polish ham on hollandaise sauce, and seared tuna with sesame-soy sauce (zł.31) – palatable, but not spectacular. The cream of asparagus soup (zł.15) came very creamy and heavy, drizzled with basil olive oil, a very scrumptious blend. The soupe a

l’oignon with Gruyère (zł.18), cooked on Highland beef stock, had character and intensity, but perhaps saw the onions brown a bit too long. For the mains, a topside steak with herbed potatoes and asparagus (zł.79) won the approval of all assembled, though I was more captivated by the prime rib roulade stuffed with asparagus and chanterelles, baked en papillote and served with garlic potatoes and bits of fried kidneys (zł.49) – the meat was juicy and tender, and the garlic cloves lent their aroma to the common tubers. Regrettably, the wines failed to interlock with Kazuya’s superior cuisine. Overall, ‘Szkockie ranczo’ is worth an outing if you wish to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for an afternoon in the countryside, where your kids will enjoy the Scottish cattle and American Paint Horses, while the adults spoil themselves with prime beef and tranquillity. Tidy cottage rooms are comfy and spacious enough – perfect for a few days of rest. Definitely a spot that’s not recommended for vegetarians, especially since you may well end up spending the afternoon petting the beast who will end up on your plate come dinnertime. For true beef connoisseurs only! (MBP) Going from Warsaw, drive along express route 7 through Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki to Przyborowice, turn left on route 571, pass through Naruszewo and turn when you see the farm buildings on your right. GPS coordinates: 52.52663, 20.30927. Prior booking is a must. Single and double rooms range at zł.210-330. Suites and Deluxe Apartments zł.350-490. >>

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Accommodation APARTMENTS, HOTELS

top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels Hilton Warsaw Hotel and Convention Centre (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 022 356-5555 www.hilton.com Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 022 558-1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, warsaw.regency.hyatt.com Venti-Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services.

Le Régina Hotel (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 022 531-6000, www.leregina.com Standard room: €250. Swimming pool, sauna, open 24h (only for hotel guests).

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 022 318-2800, www.poloniapalace.com Single & double rooms: €85-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 022 584-8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only.

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 022 456-8000, www.airporthotel.pl Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, gym.

Westin (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 022 450-8000, www.westin.com/warsaw Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 022 328-8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

Jan III Sobieski (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 022 579-1000, hotel@sobieski.com.pl, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630-6306, fax 022 830-0311, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł.528 + zł.37 VAT (weekdays), zł.376 + zł.26 VAT (weekend). Gym and swimming pool.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 022 697-3999, holiday@orbis.pl, www.holiday-inn.com Single room: €100,58 (weekend), €124,12 (weekdays), double room: €120,91 (weekend), €144,45 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 022 450-6100, www.sheraton.com/warsaw Single & double rooms: €77-126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 022 321-8888. Single & double rooms: €175-200 weekdays, €80-155 weekend. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes. Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 022 657-8011, sof.victoria@orbis.pl, www.orbis.pl Single & double rooms: €95-200. Breakfast: €20. Swimming pool, hammam, gym. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 022 5511000, www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna

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Holiday Inn Warszawa Józefów ul. Telimeny 1, tel. 022 778-3000, reservations@holiday.aquila.pl, www.holiday.aquila.pl. Single & double room: €140-150 +7% VAT, breakfast included. Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4), ul. Krucza 28, tel. 022 583-2100, www.orbis.pl Single & double rooms: €78-112. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 022 650-0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend) Fitness centre. Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.: 022 596-00-00, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Email: H3383@accor.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna.

Sielanka nad Pilcą (outskirts) ul. Łąkowa 1, 05-660 Warka, tel. 048 666-1600, www.sielanka.pl Single and double rooms zł.320-370, suites and deluxe apartments zł.450-700. Warszawianka Congress Centre & Spa Jachranka 7 (35 km south of Warsaw centre) tel. 022 768-9000, www.warszawianka.pl Rooms zł.277-424. Breakfast, aqua-park, sauna, jacuzzi, fitness included. Złoty Strug Inn and Restaurant Pluski 104, 11-034 Stawiguda, tel. 089 5126228, zlotystrug@zlotystrug.com.pl, www.zlotystrug.com.pl. Single rooms and individual houses: zł.70-200. Offers fishing, sailing, kayaking and canoeing, windsurfing, waterbiking and a casino.

3-star hotels Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 022 575-6000, e-mail: nov.airport@orbis.pl Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate. Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 022 528-0300, www.orbis.pl Single & double rooms: €60-135. Fitness room, Finnish sauna, gym. Metropol Hotel (D5), ul. Marszałkowska 99a, tel. 022 629-4001, hotel.metropol@syrena.com.pl Single & double rooms: €60-130. MDM Hotel (D6), pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339-1600, www.hotelmdm.com.pl Single & double rooms: €60-130.

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Smart Flat mob. 0608-800-177, info@smart-flat.com, www.smart-flat.com

budget hotels

Warsaw Apartments ul. Augustówka 9, tel. 022 550-4550, www.warsawapartments.com.pl

Castle Inn (D1) Castle Square, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 022 425-0100, castleinn@castleinn.pl, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł.279-430. Breakfast: zł.20.

Warsaw Star Apartments Short-term rentals ul.Słomińskiego 19/51, mob 0-509-792-272, www.warsawstarapartments.pl Apartment rentals for short-term stays in attractive locations across Warsaw. Warsawflats (B-C3) ul. Elektoralna 13, tel. 022 890-0348, www.warsawflats.pl/warsaw

Kyriad Prestige (D5) ul. Towarowa 2, 00-811 Warszawa warszawa@kyriadprestige.com.pl www.kyriadprestige.com Single & double rooms from €70. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

top hotels around Poland

Warsaw apartments

Kraków

Holland Park Apartments (E5) ul. Książęca 17/19, tel. 022 584-5900, www.hollandparkapartments.pl

5-star hotels

InterContinental Warszawa ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 022 328-8800, wrs.sales@ihg.com, www.apartmentswarsaw.com The hotel offers 76 extended-stay apartments that offer the luxury of a private apartment with all the five-star amenities of a world-class hotel. Apartments start at €85 per day for a studio and from €120 for twobedrooms. Housekeeping, room service and concierge services included, plus access to the hotel’s Riverview Wellness Centre. K&L Luxury Properties ul. Sarmacka 15/100, tel. 0791 089-656 www.libner.pl, email: president@libner.pl Caters to expat and temporary-stay clients looking for high-end properties in Warsaw’s best residential districts and communities. Kosztrzewa Real Estate ul. Widok 19, tel. 022 827-1396, kostrzewa@wspon.org.pl Old Town Apartments (D1) ul. Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14 apt. 2, tel. 022 887-9800/01/02. P&O Apartments www.apartments.officemedia.pl booking@officemedia.pl, mob. 0506-130-885. Apartments for those people who appreciate peace, independency and privacy. Houses, Apartments, Suites, Flats, for days, weeks or months in Warsaw. Short-term and long-term Holiday Rentals. The service is available in Polish, English, French, and Spanish.

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Hotel Belwederski (E8), ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 022 840-4011, 022 6842260, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Single room: zł.240, double room: zł.280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri.-Mon.). Breakfast included.

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Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 012 421-4865 single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar. Grand Hotel ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. 012 424-0800 single & double rooms €177-189 Sauna, fitness centre, massage, library, hiking.

4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 012 424-3300 Single & double bedrooms €187-207 Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

Mazury Gałkowo Hunting Estate Gałkowo 46, Ruciana Nida, tel. 087 425-7073 www.gałkowow.pl Single and Double cabins: zł.100-135. Old-fashioned country estate features horse-back riding, sailing, swimming, traditional dinners prepared by one of Poland’s most famous chefs. Galeria 69 Dorotowo 38, tel. 089 513-6481 singles, doubles, apartments: zł.250-1330. Bright-white, modern interiorsin posh lakefront resort. Sauna, golf course, fishing, canoeing, hiking, cycling, turkish/steam bath, indoor swimming pool.

Gościniec Jaczno (Jaczno Lodge) (Suwałki Lakes district) Jaczno 3, 16-404 Jeleniewo, tel. 087 568-3590, www.jaczno.pl, jaczno@jaczno.pl

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Single & double rooms zł.210-330. Apartments zł.350-490. Offers biking, fishing, hiking, steam & Finnish sauna, fitness club. Mercure Mrongovia Resort & Spa ul. Gliżyczka 6, Mrągowo, tel. 089 743-3100 www.orbis.pl/mrongovia Single & double rooms: zł.363-381. Spa, face & body treatments, pool, watersports & fitness. Weekend and holiday packages available. Klekotki Mill Resort and Spa (Młyn Klekotki) 14-407 Godkowo, tel. 055 249-0000, recepcja@mlynklekotki.pl, www.hotelmlynklekotki.pl Gorgeous XVI-XIX Century properties have been restored to make up this heavenly retreat just a few hours away from the city. Great traditional Polish food cooked with authentic local ingredients, a lake surrounded by woods and a zen-like spa on the property makes this one of the Insider’s favourite getaways.

Poznań 5-star hotels Sheraton Poznań Hotel ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. 061 655-2000 single and double rooms €177-194 Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & wellness centre, massage, jacuzzi, indoor swimming pool

turkish/steam bath, hammam, indoor swimming pool

Tri-city

Dwór Oliwski ul. Bytowska 4, 80-328 Gdańsk, tel. 058 554-7000, www.dwor-oliwski.pl Single suites from €196, Junior suites from €290, Presidential suite from €310. Offers bike rental, golf, Nordic Walking, and SPA stocked with swimming pool, steam room, dry sauna, fitness room, and therapy.

Kamienica Gotyk ul. Mariacka 1, 80-833 Gdańsk tel. 0516 141-133, 058 301-8567, reservation@gotykhouse.eu, www.gotykhouse.eu. Single & double rooms zł.190-310.

Grand Hotel Sopot by Sofitel ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14, 81-718 Sopot, tel. 058 520-6000, fax 48 058 520-6099, www.sofitel.pl. Double rooms zł.675-845. Suites zł.765-1,025 (rates vary according to season). Newly-renovated landmark hotel offers premium service, plus casino, wellness centre, swimming pool, steam room, dry sauna, thermal bath, gym, spa treatments.

Wrocław

4-star hotels

5-star hotels

Ibb Andersia Hotel Plac Andersa 3, tel. 061 850-5269. Single & double rooms: €119-148. Sauna, fitness centre, solarium, massage, jacuzzi,

Radisson SAS Hotel ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. 071 375-0000. Single & double bedrooms €106-164. Sauna, fitness

4-star hotels Qubus Hotel Wrocław www.qubushotel.com, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny 2, tel. 071 797-9800 Single & double bedrooms €117-130. Sauna, fitness centre, massage, jacuzzi, turkish/steam bath, indoor swimming pool. Holiday Inn Wrocław ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. 071 787-0000 single & double bedrooms: €152 Sauna, fitness centre, massage. HP Park Plaza ul. Drobnera 11/13, tel. 071 320-8400 single & double bedrooms: €115-130 Sauna, fitness centre, casino.

Zakopane Belvedere ul. Droga Do Białego 3, tel. 018 202-1200 single & double rooms: €129-155. Sauna, fitness centre, solarium, spa & wellness centre, massage, billiards, table tennis, darts, jacuzzi, hiking, cycling, bowling, turkish/steam bath, hammam, squash, mini golf, indoor swimming pool. Litwor ul. Krupówki 40, tel. 018 202-0214. Single & double rooms: €103-129. Solarium, Jacuzzi. Villa Marilor ul. Kościuszki 18, tel. 018 200-0670 Single & double rooms: €124-177. Tennis court, auna, skiing, solarium, Spa & wellness centre, massage, jacuzzi, hiking, cycling, turkish/steam bath, indoor swimming pool.

Health & Beauty BODY AND MIND

spas & salons AHMA, Miejska Farma Piękności (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 022 827-0945, mob. 0502-501-001 Open Mon-Fri 08:0020:00; Sat 09:00-17:00. Complex nurturing of face and body, Guerlain treatments, Guinod treatments, endermology, body depilation, panthermal, slimming treatments. Ambasada Urody (D5) ul. Wilcza 9, tel. 022 621-5869, mob. 0606909-009, e-mail: salon@ambasadaurody.pl Open: Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. This salon specialises in treatments for men and offers facials, full body treatments including laster hair removal. A quaint and indulgent refuge.

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Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów, tel. 022 789-2016, www.beautysecret.pl Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 8:00-16:00 Located about 20 kilometers outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered. If you haven’t got time to go to the spa outside the city, head over to Beauty Secret’s local salon on ul. Zwycięzców 30, which also offers fantastic face and body treatments. Bella Salon (D3) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 022 625-3300 Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-16:00 Bella Salon offers a range of hi-tech, high-end treatments for perfecting that beach body all year round.

The laser hair removal treatment is guaranteed to eliminate unwanted hair forever. Cagiel Team Hair Studio (B10) ul. Odyńca 69, tel. 022 646-9735, www.cagielteam.com Open Mon-Fri 09:0021:00; Sat 09:00-18:00 High standard, professional service and an individual approach to every client’s hair, body and nails. Ce-Ce of Sweden, Hair, Beauty & Spa (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 022 828-0404, www.salon.cece.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-17:00. This bright, modern, friendly two-level beauty center has it all: a hair salon on the ground floor, and a body/ face treatment spa upstairs. The Espresso Detox (90 minutes,

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zł.360), Mocha Exfoliation (90 minutes, zł.260), Cappuccino Experience (2 hours, zł.430) and Bodycoffee Peeling (3 minutes, zł.150) are great. Club Oasis Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 022 851-0563 www.cluboasis.pl Open MonFri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is definitely one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-ofthe-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, deep tissue massage and luxurious La Prairie facial treatments at the beauty centre round out a healthy lifestyle. Collagena Botox Express (multiple locations) CH Złote Tarasy, ul Złota 59, Floor 2, tel. 022 2220280. Open daily 10:00-22:00. Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. 022 455-5180. Open Mon-Sat 9:0019:00 www.collagena.pl. The Collagena clinics offer minimally invasive procedures like Botox injections and lip plumping. The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, tel. 022 622-6362, www.cuttinghouse.pl Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-17:00. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your runof-the-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. Dermika Salon & Spa (Żoliborz) ul. Generała J. Zajączka 9A, tel. 022 331-3905 www.spasalon.pl A large and welcoming spa just minutes from the Arkadia shopping centre. Polite staff and a lengthy list of beauty and body treatments are sure to relax, refresh and rejuvenate. Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 022 331-0808 or 022 331-4994 www.diorinstitut.com, wwww.dessange.pl This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs. Dotyk Spa (B8) ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 022 898-7272, www.dotykspa.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-22:00; Sat 09:00-18:00. With numerous packages, treatments and exotic massages Dotyk Spa has something for every body. Escape Salon & Day Spa (H11) ul. Limanowskiego 11 (at the corner of ul. Powsińska), www.escapesalon.pl tel. 022 642-3358. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-17:00. Escape’s skin care programs

keep you looking radiant, and body treatments to keep you looking fit and firm.

aging, rejuvenation and plastic surgery based on the latest in global technology.

Franck Provost Multiple locations listed on website www.franckprovost.pl This salon takes walk-ins but still manages to provide a personalized service.

Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 022 622-9428. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. You can be assured to spend a few blissful hours here and then walk out looking incredible. BOW 2008 “Best Spa” Runner-up.

Gal i Lu Neoperfumeria (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 828-3900, www.galilu.pl Open Mon-Fri 08.00-20.00; Sat 10.00-18:00. A jaunt to Gal i Lu is sheer indulgence for your olfactory receptors: here, a mélange of aromatic treats permeates the air.

Łaźnia Klub (E12) ul. Puławska 119, tel. 022 852-2219, www.klublaznia.pl Open daily from 10:00-22:00. Great massages (try the Lomi Lomi massage if you’re undecided), body treatments, a solarium, a sauna, beauty treatments and a nail salon.

Hair-à-Porter Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -1, tel. 022 558-1555. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat 9:0017:00. Don’t be fooled by the bare-bones decor, the friendly staff provides full-service hair and nail treatments for men and women. Excellent mani-pedicurist on site and Toni&Guy-trained stylists. Club Oasis members get discount here!

Mio Studio (A1) ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 022 322-5060, miostudio@wp.pl, Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-17:00. Boasting awesome quality, great service and stylish decor, Mio Studio is sleek, professional and suprisingly affordable.

Insomnia Touch Day Spa ul. Hoża 9, tel. 022 628-0236 www.insomniatouch.pl Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-17:00. This new centrally-located spa offers an array of services for facial and body care, including massages, Thalgo Spa treatments, Finnish Sauna, Dermatology, laser treatments, hairstyling and tanning. Stay tuned for a review. Institut Clarins (E7) ul. Polna 3, tel. 022 875-9642, www.clarins.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:30-21:00; Sat 09:00-17:00. Offering treatments for face and body, gentle massage is emphasised here. Instytut Urody Odnowa ul. Tamka 49, tel. 022 828-7890, www.instytutodnowa.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00. This unique spa and salon offers a whole array of hi-tech beauty services — from Airnegy oxygen treatments to toning, rejuvenating, microdermabrasion, massage and slimming treatments.

Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 022 869-9631, www.multico.pl Open MonFri 07:00-23:00; Sat & Sun. 09:00-21:00. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax. Now offers spa services and great massages. Papillou Beauty Palace (D4) ul. Bracka 20a, www.papillou.pl Offers hi-tech beauty treatments combined with traditional methods to provide comprehensive cosmetic services. Located in a lovely 19Century Palace, this is the place to go for the ultimate in high-end face and body care. Paris Coiffure (B8) ul. Biały Kamień 7, tel. 022 898-3262. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-17:00. Attentive and helpful English-speaking staff.

“Izar Repechage” Miejska Farma Urody (D2) ul. Moliera 1 tel. 022 722-6268, www.izar-repechage.pl This gorgeous city spa offers a wide range of treatments for your whole body, including massages, make-up application, manicures and pedicures.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater Street 49, 43 floor, tel. 022 3288643, www.pearlspa.pl This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” – which essentially incorporate Eastern philosophies into their services – such as the Maghreb ritual, Ayurvedic massages, ritual showers and body treatments.

La Perla Cosmetic Clinics ul. Łowicka 21b/1 tel. 022 856-5535; ul. Wilcza 22a, tel. 022 625-7000; Panorama shopping centre, ul. Witosa 31, 1st floor. www.laperla.pl Open 9:00-21:00 This full service clinic offers a whole gamut of cosmetic procudures: anti-

The Pedicure Spa by OPI (A3) ul. Chłodna 48 (corner of ul. Wronia), tel. 022 409-3085, www.pedicure-spa.pl Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-18:00 As the first professional American-styled nail spa in Warsaw, The Pedicure Spa by OPI is

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> definitely the most sophisticated nail spa in the city with therapeutic treatment and qualified service and can be undoubtedly deemed the crème de la crème of pampering. Peggy Sage (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 022 826-2374. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-16:00. Long-known for its classic manicures and pedicures, Peggy Sage also offers fantastic face and body treatments. Royal Vital Salon & Spa (B4) ul. Sienna 93, tel. 022 890-8395 www.royalvital.pl The latest treatments in cosmetic treatments with or without surgery for rejuventation, slimming and toning. Sharley Health and Beauty Institute, Fitness & Spa (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 73/75, tel. 022 636-4664/6, www.sharley.com.pl Elegant décor and friendly staff. They offer make-up application,

styling, hairdressing, manicures and pedicures, aesthetics medicine, laser treatments and intensive body treatments. Spa Wilanów ul. Marconich 3, tel. 022 742-1330, www.spawilanow.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:0021:00; Sat 09:00-16:00. Highly recommended here are the aromatherapy body salt glow rub and a long soak in the massaging algae bath. BOW 2008 “Best Spa” Winner. Suparom Traditional Thai Massage ul. Marszałkowska 45, tel. 022 621-3234, www.masaztajski.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00 Located just above the great Thai restaurant of the same name, this is the place to go if you’re longing for a real Asian-style massage. Terra Spa (D6), ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 022 622-1417, www.terraspa.pl, spa@terraspa.pl

INSIDER’S PEEK

BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

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Warszawianka Centrum Kongresowe Hotel Wellness & SPA Jachranka 77, tel. 022 768-9000, www.warszawianka.pl Hotel Warszawianka is located 35 km from the centre of Warsaw, and offers many attractions such as an Aqua Park and wellness spa. Zen Day Spa (A1) ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 022 322-5055 www.dayspazen.com.pl This urban retreat is thoroughly modern, sure to polish every inch of a tired and aching body.

fitness clubs B&S Health Institute – East Asian Traditional Medicine clinic Daoyin (Chinese joga), qigong, meditation workshops in small groups, once a week. Ancient massotherapy for longevity and health

Ericson Laboratoire Anti-Ageing Centre (Ursynów) Galeria Ursynów (Natolin) Al. KEN 36, lok. 105 tel. 022 436-7867 Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-17:00

“Overall, Ericsson offers everything from chemical peels to Botox, Juvaderm fillers, mesotherapy vitamin treatments…”

Terra Spa offers facials, classical and relaxing massages, manicures and pedicures.

t all started with a birthday. I don’t often venture to Ursynów but as I’ve got a few girlfriends who live out there, I make it out occasionally. And it happened these girlfriends gifted me with a certificate on my birthday for some head-to-toe beauty treatments at one of their favourite salons. Now I’ve got to admit, it wasn’t exactly what I’d anticipated from my girls as typically they’re fans of the slicker city-centre spots with the glittering chandeliers and designer wallpaper and a mall salon is hardly their vibe. But they assured me that Dr. Jola Czarkwiani had the magic touch when it comes to improving a tired face. The gift certificate limited me to a massage treatment, which was exfoliating, relaxing and stimulating all at the same time, but I was interested in the facial treatments. I always get lost in the menu of invasive and non-invasive procedures so it was great to get a chance to discuss the possibilities with Dr. Jola, a really sweet, smart, hands-on type of gal. She runs the place with her daughter, who speaks perfect English, so it’s a pretty tight ship. Overall, Ericsson offers everything from chemical peels and diamondparticle dermabrasion to minuend cellulite treatments, stem cell lifting treatments, IPL hair removal and photo rejuvenation, Botox, Juvaderm fillers, mesotherapy vitamin treatments and spider vein removal. I’ve only just begun to embark on a self-improvement voyage, having properly rounded out my third decade a few years ago so I kept to the basics – a bit of IPL on that pesky upper lip area and a Mandel (almond) peel. I was skeptical about the peel but Dr. Jola assured me it was effective for my (problematic) skin type and wouldn’t leave much redness. I walked out with glowing, bright skin – brighter than it had been for a very long time and it stayed that way for at least two weeks. I have hardly had the time to go back but as soon as I’ve got an event I’ve got to look great for, I’m back for another. (AL)

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maintainance. English, German spoken. Address: ul. Sempołowskiej 3. www.tuina.pl. For inquiries and appointments please call: 0608 355 100 Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 022 851-0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Open Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is definitely one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, deep tissue massage and luxurious La Prairie facial treatments at the beauty centre round out a healthy lifestyle. Contact Oasis for membership fee info by phone or email: cluboasis@cluboasis.pl. Diamond Pilates Studio (H11) ul. Powsińska 106 (entry from ul. Gołkowska), tel. 022 331-4495, www.diamondstudio.pl Standards are high in terms of teaching and equipment and classes are small, varied and taught in English. Highly recommended. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 022 630-6306 www.holmesplace.pl Open Mon-Thur 06:0022.00, Sat & Sun 9:00-21:00. Premium fitness

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panoramic view of the city. One entry – zł.150, one year membership: zł.3,650-5,500. Free for hotel guests. BOW 2008 “Best Health Club” Runner-up

and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia. Check website BOW 2008 “Best for membership info. Health Club” Winner.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 022 321-8888. Open Mon-Fri 06:00-22:00, Sat & Sun 08:0021:00. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes. zł.100 per day.

Joga na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 10, tel. 022 332-4888, www.jogafoksal.pl Open daily 7:00-21:30 Ivengar yoga classes are taught by licensed teachers in a clean, bright environment on a variety of skill levels. Pure Health & Fitness Blue City Shopping Centre, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, level 4, tel. 022 311-7555, www.purepoland.com Open Mon-Fri 6:3022:30, Sat-Sun 8:00-20:00. Modern equipment, multigyms, free weights, a range of classes, tidy locker rooms, steamroom, sauna for a really good price. RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 022 328-8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 06:0023:00. Sat & Sun. 07:00-21:00. Top-class facilities and equipment, as well as private instructors and small classes. Salon and spa services. The view from the pool affords a

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 022 450-6100, www.sheraton.com/warsaw Open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:00, Sat & Sun 8:00-20:00 Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł.3,420/year Stajnia Chojnów ul. Solec 72, 05-532 (Entrance from route 79 between Góra Kalwaria & Piaseczno), tel. 022 736-2878, www.stajniachojnow.pl A sprawling stable and riding ground for those with an inclination for the horsey life. World Class at the Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630-6306, fax 022 830-0311, www.marriott.com/wawpl Open Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat & Sun 8:0021:00. Fitness centre and swimming pool. Price: zł.132 per entry, zł.1,482 per month.

Community Contacts GET CONNECTED Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Based on the traditional AA format, in Warsaw meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month). Contacts: Zack, tel. 022 635-4487, Bill, tel. 022 620-0473 and Izabela, tel. 0506 018-696. American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country. For more information: info@afw.waw.pl Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: (22) 827-60-00; e-mail: amnesty@amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181 Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska:

e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob. 0603-378-567.

Dr Clown Foundation ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl “Dr Clowns” volunteers provide Patch Adamsstyle entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland. To volunteer or make a donation, call 0-22 854-0501, 02 or 03.

The Atelier Foundation (E4) Atelier Foksal, ul. Foksal 11, second floor The Atelier Foundation offers drawing, painting and sculpture classes, art history lectures, exhibitions and open air sessions for adults and kids in English. For more information: tel. 022 826-8813, 022 826-9589, www.atelier.org.pl

English Speaking Alcoholics Anonymous Meetings every week. For more information, log on to www.aa-europe.net or contact: Zach on 022 635-4487

Australians in Warsaw The group meets once a month for drinks and a chat. For more information: darren.haines-powell@ifgroup.com.pl Awangarda promotes the integration of people with disabilities into mainstream society. For more information, please contact Małgorzata Samborska at e-mail: m.samborska@awangarda.org.pl or visit Awangarda’s website at www.awangarda.org.pl

European Social Democrats in Poland Organised by Labour International, the German SPD and the French PS. Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 022 624-0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@assemblee-afe.fr Expat House For more information: www.expathouse.fi, or contact us at 022 621-2565 and izabela.markiewicz@expathouse.fi

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Expats-in-Poland.com, Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com Food Banks All thirty Food Banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl Foundation for Poland is a charity organisation that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 0502-198-782. Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. It is a public benefit company and a non-government organization entitled to receive 1% of income tax from tax-payers in Poland. To contribute to this charity, contact Patrycja Wróbel, Management Board Member, ul. Kickiego 1, 04-373 Warszawa; tel. 022 517-1770, email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl. Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, 05-500 Piaseczno, tel. 022 825-0390, e-mail: mikolaj@mikolaj.org.pl The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for oer ten years. In 2005 it won a Pro Publico Bono award and many other honours since then. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). Info: www.mikolaj.org.pl. German Speaking Women’s Treff is for all women who speak German or would like to improve it. For further information call Grażyna at 0605-580-521 or send an e-mail to: GermanSpeaking@web.de Habitat for Humanity International (F11) is a non-profit organisation that helps the working poor build and afford their own

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houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 022 642-9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl ILYADANSE Choreographic Studio – Wilanów offers Ballet, Body Light, Afrolatino classes for children aged five and above, teenagers, adults, professionals and non-professionals (possibility to participate in performances). The studio also prepares dancers and actors for auditions and organises artistic events (music and dance). For more information: mob. 0602-667-087 or e-mail: ilyadanse@gmail.com International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45 every Tuesday at 12:00. Note: the last Tuesday of each month, meetings are held at 19:00. For info: 0601 897 731 International Women’s Group Unites expat women in Warsaw through cultural, education and recreational activities. Meetings are generally held twice a month on the first and third Monday. The location for the first Monday varies but for the third Monday, members meet at Tapa y Toro restaurant in the Złote Tarasy shopping centre from 10:00-11:00. For info: iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. Italian Culture Association in Poland Cultural events, meetings, parties and much more for the Italian community in Warsaw. For those who would like to help and take part in the group, please contact Annamaria Schifano, mob. 0609-304-146, schinow@neostrada.pl

Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 022 845-0652 www.italianiinpolonia.org The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members, along with help getting connected in Warsaw.

The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 022 626-8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl or sprzedaz@schelleracademy.com.pl Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-andeat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit

www.littlechef.pl or call 0501-093-691 for more information. Mabor Acculturation Services Expatriates feeling a bit of “culture shock” in Poland can find refuge at Mabor. The organization hosts 2-hour meetings led by a trained cultural psychologist that help members with the adaptive acculturation process, providing tools for understanding and accepting a new social environment. Meetings begin in late September at the Mabor offices in ul. Bonifacego 100 in Sadyba. Cost per session zł.100 or zł.650 for series of 5. For info, contact Anna Osinski at a.osinska@mabor.com.pl. Mums & Tots brings together expat mothers, toddlers and babies for various activities. For more information: postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.mumsandtots.com New Europe Writers Ink (D5) is a fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@newink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com The New Warsaw Chamber Choir is for all those who enjoy singing music and can commit to a weekly rehersal. Contact Richard Berkeley, mob. 0502-965-353. www.fnok.pl, e-mail: berkeley@nok.org.pl Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit registered (since 2002) charity, founded and run by Kimberly Reed. Contact Dominik Granada at: mob. 0668-031-667, talizman@talizman.org, www.talizman.org Toastmasters International Club (C4) Toastmasters (Polska) club invites all to its weekly meetings. Toastmasters is an international organization for learning the art of public speaking and mastering leadership potential. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 at the Palace of Culture 12th floor (premises of Collegium Civitas) – entrance from ul. Marszałkowska side. For more details goto www.toastmasters.org.pl or call Dolores Skovron at 0608-611-808 TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further

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information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends.pl. www.travelfriends.pl.

assistant.chaplain@anglicanchurch.pl, or visit www.anglicanchurch.pl

Warsaw Beavers Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson by mob. 606 247-347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail.com.

The Bahá’i Community of Warsaw (D5) Centrum Narodowe/ National Centre, ul. Lanciego 13, tel. 022 353-3717. For more information: www.bahai.org.pl or bahai@bahai.org.pl

Warsaw Volunteer Mission (F5) is a non-profit registered charity that assists those in need by providing material help as well as advice and emotional support to needy institutions, such as orphanages, hospitals, various types of shelters and correctional facilities. For information: ul. Orzeszkowej 39, 05-500 Piaseczno, tel. 022 499-1880, biuro.fundacji@wvm.org.pl, www.wvm.org.pl

houses of worship Masses held in different languages in Warsaw: Italian ul. Smoluchowskiego 1, every Sunday, 12:00. Spanish (D8) ul. Melsztyńska 12, every Sunday, 10:40. French (D8) ul. Rakowiecka 61, every Sunday, 10:45. German (E5) ul. Wilcza 6, the second and the fourth Sunday of the month, 10:00. Anglican and Episcopal Church meets every Sun. at 10:00 in Res Sacra Miser Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62). Sunday school during service, refreshments after service. For more information: Rev. Robert Campbell, mob. 0602-782-497

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Beit Warszawa: The Progressive Jewish Congregation Friday Shabbat services at 19:00, weekly lectures, activities and Holiday events. For more information: 022 885-2638; fax 022 885-8982, e-mail: office@beit.org.pl, www.beit-warszawa.org.pl Chabad-Lubavitch ul.Słomińskiego 19, tel. 022-637-5352, www.chabad.org.pl The Outreach Activities of the Chabad-Lubavitch center include adult education classes, Jewish youth programs and a Talmud Torah. The center’s Glatt Kosher Restaurant offers daily Glatt Kosher meals. The English–Speaking Catholic Community in the Archdiocese of Warsaw (E3) ul. Radna 14 at the Church of St. Vincent de Paul Charitable Society, Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Miraculous Medal. Mass in English, Sunday 11:30, Sunday school for children before the service 10:30 (from midSeptember to mid-June). Contact Father Wiesław Dawidowski, mob. 0600-384-916, chaplain@catholic.li.pl Gospel Baptist Church ul. Czerniowiecka 4 Services are held in Polish and English. Sun 11:00 (Sunday School), 12:00 (AM service), 18:00 (PM Service), Thurs 19:00. For information contact: Pastor Paul Sock, mob. 0500 270-990, e-mail: paulesock@yahoo.com

International Christian Fellowship (E10) Interdenominational services Sunday 17:00 at ul. Puławska 114. For more information: Pastor Larry Huddlestons at mob. 0607-309490, office tel. 022 844-7996, contact@icfpl.org, www.icf-pl.org Nożyków Synagogue (C4) ul. Twarda 6, tel. 022 620-0676, 022 620-4324, www.jewish.org.pl Services Mon.-Fri. 8:00 and at sunset, Sat. and Sun. 9:30 and at sunset. Shabbat dinners Friday at the Youth Centre. Polish Christian Church: Christian Fellowship “North” (F1) Provides services translated into English and German. Sunday school for children aged 3-13, baby and toddler care, youth meetings. For more information contact Monika Sacewicz at 0501-516-589 or www.schpolnoc.pl Warsaw Diamond Way Buddhist Center “The Stupa House”, ul. Ożarowska 65/67. Open meditations are held on Tuesdays and Wednesdays at 20:00, Fridays and Sundays at 19:00. In addition, every Friday at 18:00 meetings are held for anyone interested in Diamond Way Buddhism. For more information: www.stupahouse.pl, tel. 022 877-3408, stupahouse.buddyzm.pl Warsaw International Church (C2) ul. Miodowa 21 near the Old Town, tel. 022 842-2351, pastor@wic.org.pl, www.wic.org.pl “A Mainline Church for Today.” English-speaking worship and Sunday School for children. To be listed in this section, please fax your info to 022 639-8569 or e-mail insider@warsawinsider.pl

Education PRESCHOOLS AND SCHOOLS

polish for foreigners Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 022 629-9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl Offers a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals.

Akademia PFF (H4) tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@pff-warsaw.com Akademia PFF offers a

wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles. Centrum Języka Polskiego (E5) ul. Mokotowska 35, tel. 022 626-9671 www.cjp.pl They organise group lessons, weekend trips an individual courses. In addition to Polish lessons, Centrum Jezyka Polskiego offers Russian lessons at various levels.

IKO Institute of Polish for Foreigners (E4) ul. Kopernika 3, tel. 022 828 52 67 www.iko.com.pl. Email: iko@iko.com.pl Polish language education for expats. Follows a total immersion approach to communication, with a combined focus on language and culture. Klub Dialogu (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, room 160, tel. 022 498-1010, www.klubdialogu.pl They offer regular, intensive, weekend, travel and >>

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> family courses for every language level. Every lesson lasts 60 minutes; the first lesson is free. Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson. Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl Schola Vera – Polish for Foreigners Polish for foreigners taught by bilingual native speakers. School offers free trial lesson, reasonable prices, flexible locations. Teachers are patient, friendly and knowledgeable in all areas of Polish language, lifestyle and culture. For more information, contact Schola Vera by phone or email: tel. 079 0597-145; schola.vera@gmail.com. Worldwide School (E3) ul. Dobra 56/66, tel./fax 022 826-6904; ul. Morcinka 5 paw.16, tel./fax 022 638-4196; ul. Kondratowicza 25, tel. 022 675-1174; ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 21/24, tel. 022 833-9112; www.worldwideschool.pl Their “Polish for Foreigners in Poland” program is aimed at companies, individual clients (open “Razem po polsku” training). They also have lectures about Polish history and civilisation. The French Institute (D2) ul. Senatorska 38, tel. 022 505-980,

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www.ifv.pl The Institute organises general Polish courses for French native speakers (zł.1,260 for 60 hours).

preschools ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 022 6162066, www.abc.org.pl Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and educational space for small children, with capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials. Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów) mob. 0502-355-919, www.trampoline.edu.pl This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 022 646-7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 022 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school. Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Bełska 7, tel. 022 646-9288-

89, 0697 970-244, 0697 977 600, 0697 979 300, www.canadian-school.pl The Preschool’s programme is tailored especially for the needs of young learners with a curriculum based on the English language and the addition of French. Preschool offers: international teachers, a family atmosphere, a variety of after school activities that includes swimming, art, modern dance, karate, tennis, pottery and more. For info call or email secretary@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 022 851 68 93 ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 0 22 721 87 36, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl The Toddler Montessori program here was the first of it’s kind in Warsaw. Teachers are patient, knowledgeable and fully-trained in child education from 18 months to 21/2 years. High quality pre-academic curriculum strengthens major and minor motor skills, along with pre-reading and pre-math cognitive development. Offers tours of school for potential pupils and their families. The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a, tel. 022 843-9370, The English Playhouse functions in the quiet and green-

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filled residential Mokotow district, next to Królikarnia Park. This preschool follows the English National Curriculum and enrolls children from 12 months up to 5 years old. For info call Agnieszka Weston, mob. 0604-464-333 or email office@theenglishplayhouse.com. Web: www.theenglishplayhouse.com The European Bilingual Preschool ul. Chłapowskiego 1, tel. 022 644-1514, mob. 0605-561-514, info@preschool.waw.pl, www.preschool.waw.pl HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okrężna 23, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 022 717-5513, fax 022 717-5145, mob. 0608-369-269, 0501-495-543, preschool@happy-home.pl, www.happyhomechildcare.eu An international preschool located in Konstancin, close to the American School of Warsaw. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Home” is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world. REGISTRATION for the new preschool year 2009/2010 is now open. Happy Montessori House, Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 022 427-3767, mob. 0697 060-504, hmh@hmh.com.pl, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Children are given ample time and opportunity to explore and work at their own pace and in their own learning style, with a focus on global education.

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education. Contact: marta.cross@neostrada.pl mob. 0607-704-396. Maple Leaf Preschool ul. Żołny 16, tel. 022 644-2326, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl Polish-Canadian Preschool with two locations on the outskirts of Warsaw, ul. Czereśniowa 31a, WarszawaWłochy, tel. 022 863-7756 and ul.Żołny 16, tel. 644 23 26, 0501 251-414. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36, tel. 022 842-2481, www.montessoriacademy.eu This nice kindergarten is located in the Wilanów district, in a cosy house with a beautiful garden. The policy of the school is to comply with Montessori standards and best practices and, in order to ensure the individual approach to each student, their number in class is limited. Each classroom has an art space for free creation and the program also offers a lot of activities from sport to music, science or drama. The school admits children from 18 months up to 6 years old. The school year runs from the beginning of September to the end of June. Nanny Express Al. Witosa 31, #206, tel. 022 858-3328, www.nannyexpress.pl Nanny Express provides childcare professionals for the Warsaw elite. Here, the nannies have very specific qualifications and come with a University degree in pedagogy, at least two

years of previous experience working with children and at least an intermediate fluency in English. Plus, they undergo a training process which includes first aid and CPR training, nutrition, pediatrics, communication, arts and crafts. Pooh Corner ul. Tukana 2d, Pyry, tel. 022 648-1605, www.poohcorner.pl Nursery school in the Pyry district of Warsaw. Three Language Day Care (F4) ul. Cicha 5, tel. 0503 072-119, www.zlobekjezykowywarszawa.pl The first trilingual nursery school in Warsaw. Located in the Powiśle district of Centrum, it offers children 1-3 a comprehensive curriculum taught by native speakers of Polish, Spanish and English. Info call or email: amjup2000@yahoo.com.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 022 702-8500, fax 022 702-8500, admissions@asw.waw.pl, www.asw.waw.pl. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18. The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 022 842-3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private

International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 022 843-0964, preschool@preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of Mokotów district. Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery

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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 9 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education. Canadian International Primary School ul. Żołny 16, tel. 022 816-5798/99, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl

Canadian School of Warsaw (C11) ul. Bełska 7, tel. 022 646-9288, 022 646-9289, mobs. 0697 977600, 0697 979300, 0697 970-244, secretary@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl. Established in 2000, The Canadian School of Warsaw provides an IB Programme along with the Canadian and Polish Curriculum. International highly qualified teachers, small classes and a

friendly atmosphere provides students with an optimal learning facility. Canadian School offers a wide variety of after school activities, such as: creative thinking, emotional intelligence, playing on different instruments, creative arts, pottery, modern dance, karate, swimming, tennis and others. Opening Middle and High School starting September 2009. International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 022 842-4448, ies@ies-warsaw.pl Japanese School by the Japanese Embassy ul. Kormoranów 7a, tel. 022 643-5474 www.japoland.pl/gakko This Japanese Embassy-sponsored Japanese School in Ursynów has been running since 1978. It now has over two dozen pupils, studying a traditional Japanese curriculum. Lycée Franćais de Varsovie (H4) ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 022 616-5400, www.lfv.pl

St Paul’s: The British International School of Warsaw ul. Zielona 14, Piaseczno, tel. 022 756-7797. Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 022 841 39 08, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. Tours and school visits available for potential new students and their families. Deutsch-Polnische Begegnungsschule „Willy-Brandt-Schule” in Warschau Kindergarten and Elementary: ul. Wandy Rutkiewicz 2, tel. 022 642 27 05, Middle school: ul. Kolegiacka 1A, tel. 022 885 83 22, www.d-s-w.pl Presents a full Polish-German curriculum from Kingergarten through Middle School.

Medical EMERGENCIES, HOSPITALS, CLINICS, DENTISTS

private clinics Aster Med – The Orthodonitics & Implants Centre (H12), ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 022 858-0354/55, 022 858-1519, www.astermed.pl Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 022 654-2116, 022 654-5484, www.austriadent.pl Open Mon.-Fri. 09:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-15:00 B.K. Euromed Al. Jerozolimskie 123, tel. 022 529-7000 or 01.

Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 022 862-4770, 022 632-0181, www.citident.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl General number for information and to schedule an appointment: 022 311-7777.

Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 022 823-7222, dentalux@detalux.pl, www.dentalux.pl

Emka Physiotherapy Clinic The majority of their clients are foreigners working and living in Poland. emkaphysio@wp.pl, mob. 0603-884-864 (Cezary Kosik)

Dr. Tamara Chołast (Wola) ul. Emila Żegadłowicza 1, tel. 022 862-0629, fax: 022 862-0630, mobile: 0600 947-162. The latest technology in preventive, corrective and cosmetic dentistry and orthodontics. Friendly English-speaking staff.

B&S Health Institute – East Asian Traditional Medicine clinic Oriental medicine diagnosis, acupuncture, Tuina physiotherapy treatments. English, German spoken. Address: ul. Sempołowskiej 3. www.tuina.pl. For inquiries and appointments please call: 0608 355 100

Dr. Artur Grodzki tel. 022 758-2287, 022 498-9313, mob. 0504-170-484, agrodzki@amwaw.edu.pl. Internist and Family Medicine Specialist who speaks English and makes house calls (07:00-23:00).

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 022 566-2222, www.damian.com.pl

Dr. Michał Rancewicz (C3) Dentist, ul. Próżna 5/22, tel. 022 620-2295, mob. 0601-227-107, rancewicz@rancewicz.com

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 022 637-4080, www.cpp.net.pl

Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City,

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Eurodental ul. Andersa 15, tel. 95-93, mob. 0502-475-014, ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 022 857-0088, www.eurodental.pl Falck (C1) ul. Sapieżyńska 10, tel. 022 536-9710 or 022 538-97-41. Open: Mon.-Fri. 07:30-20:00; Sat. 08:00-14:00. Healthcare Dr. Dorota Ossowska, Dr. Andrzej Gajer, ul. Chorągwi Pancernej 50, tel. 022 858-0101, mob. 0604-774-744, emergency: mob. 0606-336-677. General practitioners who speak English. Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5),

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ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78 tel. 022 458-7000, cmed@cm-lim.com.pl, www.cmlim.pl

adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 0606-518-151.

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24h hotline: 0801-800-808, for mobile users: tel. 022 332-2888, www.luxmed.pl

Medicover Center Atrium, al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 39, ul. Puławska 278. Hotline: 041 95 96 or 0804 229-596, corporate center 022 592-7000. www.medicover.com The Rehabilitation Center is at ul. Podchorążych 35

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for

Soldent ul. Spiska 2a, tel. o22 824-0178, 022 823-2285, www.soldent.pl soldent@soldent.pl

Supradent (C4) ul. Pańska 81/83 loc. 1/6, tel. 022 432-8086, 022 432-8617; gabinet@supradent.pl

emergencies Ambulance: tel. 999 and 112 for mobiles Police: tel. 997 Fire: tel. 998

24-hour pharmacies al. Solidarności 149, tel. 022 620-0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 022 834-5804. ul. Grójecka 76, tel. 022 822-2891.

Transportation GETTING AROUND

car rental Avis (C5) tel. 022 572-6565, fax 022 572-6566, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 650-4872/3. Reservations: tel. 0801120-010, rezerwacje@avis.pl, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 022 650-2896; mob. 0691-411-130 ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 022 621-1360. Reservations: tel. 022 500-1620, 0800-143789; rezerwacje@hertz.com.pl warszawa@hertz.com.pl Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 022 511-1550, 022 511-1555, fax 022 511-1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 022 650-2031, fax 022 650-2032, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602-475-355, www.trustrentacar.pl

relocation companies AGS International Movers ul. Krasnowolska 21/27b, tel. 022 644-8553, 022 644-8527, fax 022 644-2338, ags@agspoland.com, www.ags-worldwide-movers.com Alpha Consulting tel. 022 498-2222, www.expat.pl Apis UTS Przeprowadzki ul. Sikorskiego 39, 61-536 Poznań, tel. 061 835-3837, fax 061 835-3133, Poznan@apis.uts.pl, www.apis.uts.pl

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 022 737-7200, fax 022 737-7277, info@corstjens.pl, www.corstjens.com Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 894-5929 or 022 578-2093 warsaw@crownrelo.com www.crownrelo.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 022 670-4280, expat@duxconsulting.com.pl, www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 022 878-3539, expat@expressrelocations.com, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 022 716-5566, fax 022 716-5567, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul.Geodetów 172, 05-500 Piaseczno tel. 022 701-7171, fax 022 701-7177 warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com Interdean relocation services company that’s celebrating its 50th Year of operation. It has 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitates easing the transition across borders. Move One Relocations tel. 022 630-8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com

Universal Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 022 878-3547, 022 878-3555, 0 800 MOVE ME, www.uer.pl

travel agencies Orbis Travel The largest tour and travel agency in Poland with numerous locations: pl. Konstytucji 4 (D6), tel. 022 628-8222, orbis.konstytucji@pbp.com.pl; ul. Puławska 31, tel. 022 646-2772, orbis.pulawska@pbp.com.pl; ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 022 650-4423, orbis.okecie@pbp.com.pl; Al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 022 311-7321, tur.bluecity@pbp.com.pl Neckerman Call Center: tel. 0804-200-111, ul. Modlińska 8, tel. 022 811-9010, warszawa.auchan@neckermann.pl; pl. Konstytucji 1 (D6), tel. 022 622-4022, warszawa.centrum@neckermann.pl; ul. Chmielna 98 paw. 8 (D5), tel. 022 620-6777, chmielna98@neckermann.pl; ul. Kredytowa 2 (D3), tel. 022 827-5916, kredytowa2@neckermann.pl; al. KEN 92, tel. 022 446-1314, ursynow@neckermann.pl Travel Express (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 56c, tel. 022 453-5353, www.travelexpress.pl.

taxis Halo MPT Super Top Wawa

tel. 9623, tel. 919, tel. 9622 or 9661, tel. 9664, tel. 9644.

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eria Gal trum Cen

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

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Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

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Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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