I get inspiration from many things – archetypal beauty, p icons, anthropogenic aesthetics, technical textures latest collection is exaggeratedly urbanistic. Stately a time, naïve, it is filled with majestic spirit of totalitarian m
Your AW13 collection ‘Overground’ is said to display signature elements. What are the main themes and inspirations for this collection? The design of the garments glorifies sublime technocratic aesthetics and functionalist utilitarian constructions. The word “overground” makes an ironic analogy with “underground”, as a creative concept, and at the same time, it is an eloquent statement about the grandiose idea of the collection. Your designs include the creation of aesthetic silhouettes. What do you think these unique designs add to the line? Obviously the most recognisable designs are always editorial rather than commercial. They illustrate the general style of the collection and concentrate its essence. Meanwhile, the pieces that are not so conceptual but rather casual and sporty are more likely to be sold quickly. But they find a market because of the influence of the garments from the first category. So those unique designs express my vision best of all and aid marketing as well. You showed at the 2013 Ukrainian Fashion Week. What was the best part of this experience? It was exciting but, at the same time, very challenging. It took a lot of energy, discipline, management skills and means to make a good show. That’s why what I enjoyed more than anything was having done it and receiving a lot of feedback and offers. Who is the DZHUS Girl? She is a perfectionist longing for an uncompromisingly complementary form for her own ideological substance. Neither her age, nor business line matters, but only her ability to comprehend a piece of clothing mentally. The signature of your brand is intellectually constructed garments. How long does each piece take to make? As soon as I am totally happy with the concept and the drawing, I start creating a prototype, which might take from half a day to three days until I am finally satisfied with the shape and proportions. Then I need one more day to make patterns. Usually, by the 17 | Urban-Coco
time construction is complete, textiles for the collection have already been chosen so the manufacturing process begins at once and can last about a week. What was the first piece of clothing you designed? My experimental designs made at the age of 14 to 16 can probably be called the first steps towards professional realisation. I can’t recall the very first piece I created, but I can describe the most memorable outfit made in that period for a young designers contest. The look was inspired by pagan mysticism. It included kind of a kaftan made of ivory cotton, a long white honeycomb cloth skirt and an eccentric head accessory with horns made of a rope. Which celebrity best suits your brand? Tilda Swinton, I think. What is most important to you as a fashion designer? To me, design is, first of all, about creating innovative forms and structures. I make all the constructions myself, as well as choosing the fabrics, focusing on their texture and physical properties. Along with that, every design I create carries a distinctive ideological message. My ethereal ideas take shape, and that enraptures me most about being a designer. How would you describe your personal style? I think it’s conceptual, intellectual, structural, lofty and utilitarian. You work with a range of fabrics from metallised textiles to coloured silks and chiffon. What is your favourite fabric to work with? To be honest, the technical cotton that I use for prototypes is absolute perfection to me. How would you define the DZHUS palette? It is either monochrome or very reserved. I perceive any object through the prism of its structure. If I use colours, then they are rather symbolic in the context of a collection’s theme. Are there any designers that particularly inspire you?
My favourite fashion brands are Comme des Garcons, Maison Martin Margiela and Rick Owens. I admire their work; however, it does not actually inspire me. I might be inspired by almost anything but never fashion design itself. What do you hope for the future of your brand? I am located in Ukraine where there are many promising young designers; nevertheless, retail business hardly exists, which makes my native country rather disadvantageous for new brands. Therefore, I’m aiming at international promotion and sales, especially since I have had much more feedback and interest from European, American and Asian sources than local ones. I hope to sell worldwide not only via online platforms but also at showrooms, so that my designs are easily accessible for people who appreciate them, regardless of where they live. Shop the Overground collection on Not Just a Label (notjustalabel.com/dzhus) and follow DZHUS on Facebook (facebook. com/dzhus.conceptual.wear). Words by Naomi Nightingale