Textile & Leather Review 1 - 2020

Page 1



TEXTILE & REVIEW LEATHER Editor-in-Chief

Dragana Kopitar, University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, Croatia

Assistant Editor

Ivana Schwarz, University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, Croatia

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Srećko Sertić, Seniko studio Ltd., Croatia

Editorial Advisory Board

Emriye Perrin Akçakoca Kumbasar, Ege University, Faculty of Engineering, Turkey Tuba Bedez Üte, Ege University, Faculty of Engineering, Turkey Mirela Blaga, Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles, Leather and Industrial Management, Romania Andrej Demšar, University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Slovenia Krste Dimitrovski, University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Slovenia Ante Gavranović, Economic Analyst, Croatia Ana Marija Grancarić, University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Croatia Huseyin Kadoglu, Ege University, Faculty of Engineering, Turkey Fatma Kalaoglu, Istanbul Technical University, Faculty of Textile Technologies and Design, Turkey Hüseyin Ata Karavana, Ege University, Faculty of Engineering, Turkey Ilda Kazani, Polytechnic University of Tirana, Department of Textile and Fashion, Albania Vladan Končar, Gemtex – Textile Research Laboratory, Ensait, France Stana Kovačević, University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Croatia Aura Mihai, Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles, Leather and Industrial Management, Romania Jacek Mlynarek, CTT Group – Textiles, Geosynthetics & Flexibles Materials, Canada Abhijit Mujumdar, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India Monika Rom, University of Bielsko-Biala, Institute of Textile Engineering and Polymer Materials, Poland Venkatasubramanian Sivakumar – CSIR – Central Leather Research Institute, Chemical Engineering Department, India Pavla Těšinová, Technical university of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Czech Republic Savvas Vassiliadis, Piraeus University of Applied Sciences, Department of Electronics Engineering, Greece

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Textile & Leather Review ‒ ISSN 2623-6257 (Print), ISSN 2623-6281 (Online) UDC 677+675 DOI: https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR Frequency: 4 Times/Year The annual subscription (4 issues). Printed in 300 copies Published by Seniko studio d.o.o., Zagreb, Croatia Full-text available in open access at www.textile-leather.com The Journal is published with the financial support of the Minstry of Science and Education of the Republic of Croatia. It is freely available from www.textile-leather.com, https://hrcak.srce.hr, https://doaj.org/


TEXTILE & LEATHER REVIEW ISSN 2623-6257 (Print)

ISSN 2623-6281 (Online) CROATIA

VOLUME 3

ISSUE 1

2020

CONTENT ORIGINAL SCIENTIFIC ARTICLE 6-18

Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour of 3D Woven Hollow Composite Structures Using FEM Analysis Lekhani Tripathi, Soumya Chowdhury, Bijoya Kumar Behera

19-29

Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep Quality Tanima Chanda, Meenakshi Ahirwar, Bijoya Kumar Behera

30-39

Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool Ebru Yilmaz, Pınar Çeli k̇ , Ayşegül Körlü, Saadet Yapa

POSITION PAPER 40-42

Textiles Sustainability and Communications Belinda Carp

p. 1-48


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TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour… TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour of 3D Woven Hollow Composite Structures Using FEM Analysis Lekhani TRIPATHI, Soumya CHOWDHURY, Bijoya Kumar BEHERA* Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, Department of Textile Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110016, India *behera@textile.iitd.ac.in Original scientific article UDC 677-488.3:004.925.84 DOI: 10.31881/TLR.2020.03 Received 22 January 2020; Accepted 23 March 2020; Published 26 March 2020

ABSTRACT Three-dimensional (3D) woven spacer composites have the advantage of being lightweight and strong for use in various segments of structural engineering and automobiles due to their superior mechanical properties than conventional counterparts. In this investigation, the influence of different cell geometries of 3D woven spacer fabrics, namely rectangular, triangular and trapezoidal with woven cross-links, upon their mechanical behaviours, especially compression energy, was studied through FEM (finite element method). Cell geometries were changed into different heights and widths and evaluated through simulation and experiments. Simulation of the structure was carried out by the Abaqus platform, and validation of the results was done for the rectangular structure. It was found that compression energy increases with an increment in width, while initially, it shows the tendency to increase and subsequently decrease with an increment in height for the rectangular structure. Compression energy increases with an increase in the angle of the triangular structure; however, it shows the opposite trend in the case of the trapezoidal structure. The outcome of the result shows good agreement between simulation and experimentation values of more than 94% accuracy.

KEYWORDS 3D woven spacer fabric, cell geometry, lightweight composites, compression energy, simulation

INTRODUCTION In the broad spectrum of novel engineering studies, researchers are using composites, which have become an inevitable alternative because of their favourable properties and superior integrity over their conventional counterparts. Excellent durability, high-bending stiffness, thermal insulation, the resistance of high skin-core debonding, acoustic damping, and secure processing make sandwich structures vastly accessible and preferable than isotropic components in varied and sophisticated industries like aerospace, locomotives, automobiles, structural engineering, windmills, and marine. In composite research, a distinct inclination towards low cost ‘‘out-of-autoclave’’ manufacturing methods has recently come into trend, especially in the aerospace and vehicle industry, for producing different components with superior structural integrity, high energy absorption and minimal delamination, as well as exploring the potentiality of the robotic manufacturing processes [1–6]. These structures are becoming popular as an integrated part of the automotive industry as it is shifting towards electric vehicle (EV) manufacturing to reduce carbon footprint from the

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TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

environment by nulling fossil fuel consumption, where the reduction in weight of the vehicle compliments with low engine energy consumption, desired speed per hour, larger pay loads, and sustainable economy [7]. Typical sandwich structures are made of a variety of core materials like honeycomb core, expanded polymeric foams, and balsa wood, which have low density and face sheets of high modulus [8]. Although those core materials have the benefits of being lightweight and having superior damage resistance, the limited surface area of the poorly bonded face-core interface and physical dissimilarity cause delamination inexorably under external impacts [9, 10]. Sandwich composites made of fibrous preforms have a few obstacles if they are manufactured by the stitching process. Stitching allows the sewing needle to pierce the preform and damages the fibres in the piled fabric layers, which entangle with stitched thread. Consequently, the resin gets drained from the rich resin areas at the resin infusion stage. However, weaving and knitting methods can be the alternative for producing consolidated sandwich structures without damaging fibres in stacking the fabric and compromising with a fibrous resin matrix, which may lead to delamination. These three-dimensional (3D) sandwich structures are also known as woven/knitted spacer or hollow fabrics [8, 11–16]. Through weaving technology, near net shape preforms can be made by eliminating any joining steps. 3D woven spacer fabrics are constructed with pile yarns or fabrics, which maintain hollow space between layers [17–19]. 3D woven spacer composites have better compression and shear features than conventional counterparts [20, 21]. Furthermore, compression and low-velocity impact study were carried out by Vaidya et al., where it was found that with the increment of thickness and the presence of core piles in 3D woven spacer composites, the peak load and fracture under compression and low-velocity impact reduced respectively [22, 23]. Belingardi et al. investigated that the sandwich structures which incorporate resin net walls in the foam core can be sustained in a remarkable increment of the dynamic impact response [24, 25]. Furthermore, Torre et al. talked about ridged cores in their research, where cores are made of the same material as the face sheets. The channelled cores were filled with phenolic foams in the sandwich composites, which performed exponentially well than their conventional counterparts [26]. An extensive study was carried out by several researchers regarding the influence of the presence of corrugated cores in the sandwich structures. Jin et al. recorded very high delamination resistance of sandwich structures, which were incorporated with ridged cores along with face and bottom surfaces in his studies [27]. These corrugated cores enhance the mechanical performance of spacer structures such as high resistance to bending deformation, especially over the direction of corrugation. Therefore, woven cross-links in spacer woven composites can withstand better under bending loads than the structures connected with yarns [19, 28, 29]. Different geometrical shapes such as triangular [30, 31], trapezoidal [19], and rectangular [32, 33] can be found in the woven spacer composites which have core-face interfaces and are connected with woven cross-links. The structures may consist of a single layer of the same cell or multiple layers of cells vertically [19]. However, it is necessary to study the mechanical behaviour of different structures of the spacer composite through simulation [34]. In this research work, the compression energy of the sandwich structure with different cell geometrical shape was predicted through simulation by using the Abaqus platform. The dimensions of cell shapes were also varied within the shape, such as height, width, and angle, to find their effect on compression energy. The model is validated experimentally by analysing the rectangular spacer sample with different cell structural parameters.

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TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

EXPERIMENT Materials and Methods Materials A composite sandwich structure of the rectangular shape was manufactured from 3D woven spacer fabrics which have woven cross-links. Rectangular structures of different height and width were produced from E-glass tow of 600 Tex. A customized weaving machine was used to produce the fabric. Epoxy (LY556) resin and hardener Aradur HY951 were used to form the composite.

Production of spacer fabric and composite manufacturing The primary requirement to produce the fabric is the weave design. The cross-sectional representation of the rectangular structure is shown in figure 1. The structure has a connecting fabric layer and two skin fabrics. The number of picks changed the cell dimensions of the fabric. EPI and PPI of the single-walled fabric was 10x10 and when the layers combined to form a double layer, then EPI becomes 20, and PPI remains the same.

Figure 1. Cross-sectional representation of a rectangular structure

Vacuum-assisted resin infusion moulding technique (VARIM) was used to make the composite structure, in which resin impregnates the fabric. Customized wooden blocks were used to make the composites. They were inserted inside the cavities of the fabric according to the requirement of the shape of the structure. Teflon paper was wrapped around these wooden blocks so that during resin impregnation fabric would not stick to the blocks. Figure 2 shows the composite structure produced in the rectangular shape.

Figure 2. Composite sample of the rectangular structure

Lateral compression test Lateral compression testing of rectangular composite samples was carried out on a universal testing machine (Instron 5982) shown in figure 3, according to the ASTM365 method. The speed of testing was 2 mm/min at the quasi-static loading rate. This test method covers the determination of compressive strength and modulus of sandwich cores. These properties are usually determined for design purposes in a direction normal to the plane of facings as the core would be placed in structural sandwich construction. 8 www.textile-leather.com


TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

Figure 3. Experimentation setup for the compression test TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and simualtion of compression bahaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX.

Development of the 3D model through FEM START

Pre-Modelling Calculation of Required Data

Structure Modelling Create Coronary Sinus Conduit Based on Data

Impactor

Step Module

Interaction Module

Optimization Module

Property Specifications

Assembly Module

Load Module

Mesh Module

Job Module

Figure 4. Steps for the modelling of theof 3D hollow structure Figure 4. Steps for the modelling the 3D hollow structure

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TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

The compression energy of the textile preforms depends on various parameters which can be categorized as: 1. Mechanical properties of the composite (elastic modulus, shear modulus) 2. Structural properties 3. Geometry parameters 4. Structure surface condition. Three-dimensional models of different structures were developed using Solid Works. Then this model was imported to the Abaqus platform for the simulation of all the structures. The following physical properties like density, elastic moduli, Poisson’s ratio, and bending properties of the composite structure were entered as input parameters. Meshing tool was used to mesh the 3D model structures. It is the process of converting complex structures into thousands of finite elements. The boundary condition of fixed support is to be imposed on the structure for finding out the solution of the structure, and compression energy was calculated usingTRIPATHI the Finite Method (FEM). Steps the simulati on ofTLR the 3D hollow structure L et al.al. Modelling andand simualtion of compression bahaviour‌ 3 (1) XX-XX. TRIPATHI LElement et Modelling simualtion of for compression bahaviour‌ TLR 3 2020 (1) 2020 XX-XX. on the Abaqus platform is shown fiModelling gure 4.and Figure 5 hasofshown the stepwise development ofXX-XX. a 3D woven TRIPATHI L etL et al.in Modelling simualtion compression bahaviour‌ TLR TLR 3 (1)32020 TRIPATHI al. and simualtion of compression bahaviour‌ (1) 2020 XX-XX. hollow composite structure and its behaviour under compression by using the Abaqus platform.

(a)(a)

(b) (b)

(a)(a)

(b) (b)

(a)

(c)

(c)(c)

(b)

(d)

(d) (d)

Figure 5. Compression behaviour analysis by simulation (a) Developed 3D model with input parameters (b) Applying node (c)analysis (d) (c) (d)input Figure Compression behaviour Developed 3D model with parameters (b) Applying Figure 5. 5. Compression behaviour by by simulation (a) (a) Developed model with input parameters (b) Applying nodenode values (c)analysis Meshing (d)simulation Deformation of the3D structure under simulation values Meshing (d) Deformation of the under simulation values (c)(c) Meshing (d)simulation Deformation the structure under simulation Figure Compression behaviour analysis (a) of Developed 3D model with input parameters (b) Applying Figure 5. 5. Compression behaviour analysis by by simulation (a) Developed 3Dstructure model with input parameters (b) Applying nodenode values Meshing Deformation of the structure under simulation values (c) (c) Meshing (d) (d) Deformation of the structure under simulation

RESULTSAND AND DISCUSSION RESULTS DISCUSSION RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Compressional behaviour the rectangular structure Compressional behaviour ofof the rectangular structure RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Compressional behaviour of rectangular structure Thecompression compression energy was calculated from area under curve of stress-strain by using The energy was calculated from thethe area under thethe curve of stress-strain by using Compressional behaviour of thethe rectangular structure The compression energy was calculated from the area under the curve of stress-strain by using equation untilthe the first peak, because after the first peak the material starts to yield orbybreak both equation 1 1until first peak, because after thethe first peak the material starts to yield or break both The compression energy was calculated from area under the curve of stress-strain using the first peak, because after the first peak material starts to yield or break inthe thecase case ofexperiment experiment (as shown figure and simulation. inequation ofuntil (as shown in in figure 6) 6) and simulation. equation 1 1until the first peak, because after the first peak thethe material starts to yield or break bothboth Ć? Ć? in figure in thecase case experiment shown in figure 6) and simulation. in the ofof experiment (as(as 6) and simulation. Compression energy (joule, = đ?œŽđ?œŽ(Ć?)đ?‘‘đ?‘‘Ć? Equation Compression energy (joule, J)shown =J)âˆŤ Equation 1 1 âˆŤ đ?œŽđ?œŽ(Ć?)đ?‘‘đ?‘‘Ć? 0 0

Ć? Ć? 10 Compression www.texti le-leather.com Compression energy (joule, đ?œŽđ?œŽ(Ć?)đ?‘‘đ?‘‘Ć? Equation Equation energy (joule, =J)strain 1 1 âˆŤ0=âˆŤ0 đ?œŽđ?œŽ(Ć?)đ?‘‘đ?‘‘Ć? Where =stress, Ć?= Where ĎƒĎƒ =stress, Ć?=J) strain

Where Ďƒ =stress, strain Where Ďƒ =stress, Ć?=Ć?= strain


(c)

(d)

Figure 5. Compression behaviour analysis by simulation (a) Developed 3D model with input parameters (b) Applying node

TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

values (c) Meshing (d) Deformation of the structure under simulation

RESULTSAND AND DISCUSSION RESULTS DISCUSSION Compressional behaviour of of thethe rectangular structure Compressional behaviour rectangular structure The compression energy was calculated from the area under the curve of stress-strain by using The compression energy was calculated from the area under the curve of stress-strain by using equation the first peak,aft because the first peak thestarts material startsortobreak yieldboth or break both 1equation until the1 fiuntil rst peak, because er the fiafter rst peak the material to yield in the case of experiment (asexperiment shown in fi(as gure 6) andinsimulati on.and simulation. in the case of shown figure 6) Ć? al. Modelling and simualtion of compression bahaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX. TRIPATHI L et

Compression energy (joule, J) =âˆŤ0

đ?œŽđ?œŽ(Ć?)đ?‘‘đ?‘‘Ć?

Equation 1

Equation 1

TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and simualtion of compression bahaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX.

Ďƒ =stress, Where ĎƒWhere =stress, Ć?= strainĆ?= strain

Figure 6. Stress strain curve behaviour of rectangular structure determined experimentally

Figure 6. Stress strain curve behaviour of rectangular structure determined experimentally Figure 6. Stress strain curve behaviour of rectangular structure determined experimentally

FEM Analysis

FEM Analysis FEM Analysis

The 3D model developed in the Solidwork platform was imported to the Abaqus platform, as shown

3D model developed in the Solidwork platform wasimported imported to the Abaqus platform, The 3DThe developed Solidwork platf orm was to Abaqus platform, asshown shown inmodel figure 7. After that,ina the simulation was performed, and lateral compression was applied, asas shown in in figure 7. After8,that, simulati on results was performed, lateral compression wasthe applied, as as shown ininfigure in figure 7. that, a simulation was and lateral was applied, figure toAfter geta the desired withperformed, properand constraints andcompression settings for structure. Inshown this way, 8, to get the 8, desired results withresults properwith constraintsconstraints and settings the structure. In this way, simulati ons figure to get the desired andfor settings for the structure. In this way, simulations of other structures, namelyproper rectangular, trapezoidal, and triangular shape composites of of other structures, namely rectangular, trapezoidal, and triangular shape composites of different dimensimulations of other structures, rectangular, trapezoidal, and triangular shape composites of different dimensions, were also namely carried out. sions, were also carried out. different dimensions, were also carried out.

Figure 7. 3D model on the Abaqus platform Figure 7. 3D model on the Abaqus platform

Figure 7. 3D model on the Abaqus platform

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TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and simualtion of compression bahaviour… TLR 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX. TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour… TLR 3 (1) bahaviour… 2020 6-18. TLR 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX. TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and simualtion of compression

Figure 8. Simulation ofofrectangular structure Figure 8. Simulation rectangular composite composite structure Figure 8. Simulation of rectangular composite structure

The stress strain strain graphsgraphs obtained from the simulati on performed to calculate the compression energy of The stress obtained from the simulation performed to calculate the compression The stress strain graphs obtained from the simulation performed to calculate the compression different structures are shown in figures 9, 10 and 11 respectively. energy of different structures are shown in figures 9, 10 and 11 respectively. energy of different structures are shown in figures 9, 10 and 11 respectively.

TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and simualtion of compression (a) (b) bahaviour… TLR 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX.

(a)

(b)

Figure 9. Rectangular structure (a) Schematic diagram (b) Stress-strain (a) (b) graph by simulation Figure 9. Rectangular structure (a) Schematic diagram (b) Stress-strain graph by simulation Figure 9. Rectangular structure (a) Schematic diagram (b) Stress-strain graph by simulation

(a)

(b)

(a)

(b) Figure 10. Triangular structure (a) Schematic diagram (b) Stress-strain graph by simulation Figure 10. Triangular structure (a) Schematic diagram (b) Stress-strain graph by simulation

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(a)

(b)

TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour‌ TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

Figure 10. Triangular structure (a) Schematic diagram (b) Stress-strain graph by simulation

(a)

(b)

(a)

(b)

Figure 11. Trapezoidal structure (a) Schematic diagram (b) Stress-strain graph by simulation Figure 11. Trapezoidal structure (a) Schematic diagram (b) Stress-strain graph by simulation

Prediction of compression energy Prediction of compression energy Rectangular structures Rectangular structures In rectangular structures, width and height of the structure are varied and finally the results

In rectangular structures, width and height of the structure are varied and finally the results obtained obtained both from the experiment and the simulation are given in table 1 and table 2. Table 1 gives both from the experiment and the simulation are given in table 1 and table 2. Table 1 gives the compresthe compression energy for different widths of the composite cell at the constant height, whereas sion energy for different widths of the composite cell at the constant height, whereas table 2 shows the tablevalues 2 shows energy foratdifferent cell heights at the12 constant width. 12 (a) and (b) energy for the different cellvalues heights the constant width. Figure (a) and (b) showFigure that compression showincreases that compression energy increases withincrease increase width, while, increase and in height, energy with increase in width, while, with in in height, energy initiwith ally increases then decreases. This behaviour reveals that the composite cell under compression load becomes unstable after a certain height and then starts buckling. Table 1. Compression energy of rectangular structures with variation in width Length(L) (mm)

Width(W) (mm)

Height(H) (mm)

Energy(J) (Experimentation)

Energy(J) (Simulations)

1

51

32.5

30

1.6

1.5

2

69

44.6

30

2.5

2.5

3

76

49.5

30

4.6

4.4

4

97.5

63.8

30

5.7

5.6

S. No.

Table 2. Compression energy of rectangular structures with variation in height Width(W) (mm)

Height(H) (mm)

Length(L) (mm)

Energy(J) (Experimentation)

Energy(J) (Simulations)

1

50

21

74

4.6

4.5

2

50

29

76

6.1

6.0

3

50

36.5

78

3.4

3.5

4

50

47.5

78

2.0

2.0

S. No.

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2

50

29

76

6.1

6.0

3

50

36.5

78

3.4

3.5

TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and50Simulation of47.5 Compression Behaviour… TLR 3 (1) 4 78 2.02020 6-18.

(a)

2.0

(b)

(a)Simulation energy of rectangular structure by varying (a) width (b) (b) height Figure 12. Figure 12. Simulation energy of rectangular structure by varying (a) width (b) height

Triangular structure

In the triangular structure, compression energy was found out by simulation for various angles of the cell Triangular structure structure. resultsstructure, obtained from the simulati on are given in table 3 for different dimensions and figure In the The triangular energy was found out by simulation angles TRIPATHI L et compression al. Modelling and simualtion of compression bahaviour…for TLRvarious 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX.of 13 shows that with increase in angle, compression energy increases. the cell structure. The results obtained from the simulation are given in table 3 for different Table 3. 3. Compression of triangular with variation in the cell angle dimensions and figure 13 shows energy that with increasestructures in angle,with compression energy increases. Table Compression energy of triangular structures variation in the cell angle S No 1

(mm) S No Length(L)Length(L) (mm) 100 100 1

2

2

3

3 70

Height(H) (mm) Height(H) (mm) 27 27

83.0 83.0 70

Angle(θ) Simulation Energy Angle(θ) (degree) Simulation Energy (J) (degree) (J) 35 35 0.16 0.16

27 27 27

27

43 43 47 47

0.22

0.22

0.27 0.27

Figure 13. Simulation energy of the triangular structure by varying angle Figure 13. Simulation energy of the triangular structure by varying angle

Trapezoidal Trapezoidalstructure structure trapezoidal structure, compression energy was found by simulation for different In In thethe trapezoidal structure, compression energy was found out by out simulati on for different cell angles.cell The obtained are given in table 4 for diff erent4dimensions. 14 shows that14 with the that increase angles. results The obtained results are given in table for differentFigure dimensions. Figure shows with in angle, compression energy decreases. the increase in angle, compression energy decreases. Table 4. Compression energy of trapezoidal structures with variation in angle

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Base(B) (mm)

Height(H) (mm)

Angle (θ) (degree)

Length(L) (mm)

Simulation Energy (J)


TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour… TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

Table 4. Compression energy of trapezoidal structures with variation in angle Base(B) (mm)

Height(H) (mm)

Angle (θ) (degree)

Length(L) (mm)

Simulation Energy (J)

1

28.25

28

45

96

0.49

2

28.8 28 50.5 85 0.45 TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and simualtion of compression bahaviour… TLR 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX. 31.5 28 57 85 0.34

S. No.

3 4

TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling TLR 3 (1) 2020 28.6 28 and simualtion of 65 compression bahaviour… 67.5 0.22XX-XX.

Figure 14. Simulation energy of the trapezoidal structure by varying angle

14. Simulation of the trapezoidal structure by varying angle Validation of theFigure simulation results energy Figure 14. Simulation energy of the trapezoidal structure by varying angle

In order to validate the simulation result, the experimentation and predicted values of compression

Valida�on of the simula�on results energy of the rectangular shaped hollow composite structure were plotted in a bar chart. Figure 15 InValidation order to validate simulation result, the experimentation and predicted values of compression energy of the the simulation results and figure 16 show the results for different widths and heights respectively. of the rectangular shaped hollow composite structure were plottof edthe in arectangular bar chart.cell Figure 15 and fiItgure 16 In order to validate the simulation result, the experimentation and predicted values of compression mayresults be observed figures thereof is the a good agreement show the for difffrom erentthe widths andthat heights rectangular cellbetween respectithe vely.simulation It may beand observed energy of the rectangular shaped hollow composite structure were plotted in a bar chart. Figure experimentation resultsiswith prediction accuracy of more than 94%. on and experimentation results15 from the figures that there a good agreement between the simulati with predicti on accuracy more thanfor 94%. and figure 16 showofthe results different widths and heights of the rectangular cell respectively. It

may be observed from the figures that there is a good agreement between the simulation and experimentation results with prediction accuracy of more than 94%.

Figure 15. Comparison of experimentation and simulation results for rectangular structures of different width Figure 15. Comparison of experimentation and simulation results for rectangular structures of different width

www.texti le-leather.com Figure 15. Comparison of experimentation and simulation results for rectangular structures of different width

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TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and simualtion of compression bahaviour… TLR 3 (1) 2020 XX-XX. TRIPATHI L et al. Modelling and Simulation of Compression Behaviour… TLR 3 (1) 2020 6-18.

Figure 16. Comparison of experimentation and simulation results for rectangular structures of different height Figure 16. Comparison of experimentation and simulation results for rectangular structures of different height

CONCLUSION

CONCLUSION Compression energy for for a sandwich structure is very for thefor overall of the composite. Compression energy a sandwich structure is crucial very crucial the performance overall performance of the Among various mechanical parameters, compression energy shows influence over the changes of cell geomcomposite. Among various mechanical parameters, compression energy shows influence over the etries of the crosslinks in hollow structures. Therefore, for the numerical study of sandwich structures, changes of cell geometries of the crosslinks in hollow structures. Therefore, forimported the numerical diff erent geometrical cell shapes were developed on Solidworks and subsequently to the study Abaqus platf to predict the compression by FEM. Theshapes compression behaviour of structures of orm sandwich structures, different energy geometrical cell were developed onhollow Solidworks and of diff erent cell shapes and diff dimensions withintothe same shapes were studied, and by compared with subsequently imported toerent the Abaqus platform predict the compression energy FEM. The the experimentation data of the rectangular shape for rationalizing. The results show that the compression compression behaviour of hollow structures of different cell shapes and different dimensions within energy increases with an increment in the width of the rectangular cell, whereas it initially increases with the same shapes studied, compared the ed experimentation the rectangular the increment of thewere cell height andand decreases afterwith a specifi height while thedata cell of becomes unstable as well. In the of a triangular structure, compression energy increases with the increase of angle. However, shape forcase rationalizing. The results show that the compression energy increases with an increment in in trapezoidal structures the energy decreases with the increase in angle. The consistency in trends in the the width of the rectangular cell, whereas it initially increases with the increment of the cell height simulation and experimentation data signifies the reliability of the results obtained with a prediction accuand decreases after a specified height while the cell becomes unstable as well. In the case of a racy of more than 94%. triangular structure, compression energy increases with the increase of angle. However, in

REFERENCES trapezoidal structures the energy decreases with the increase in angle. The consistency in trends in experimentation signifiesonthe ofbehaviours the resultsofobtained with a [1]theLisimulation M, Wang S,and Zhang Z, Wu B. Effect data of structure thereliability mechanical three-dimensional spacer fabric composites. Appl 94%. Compos Mater. 2009 Feb;16(1):1–14. prediction accuracy of more than [2]

Mouritz AP, Cox BN. A mechanistic interpretation of the comparative in-plane mechanical properties of 3D woven, stitched and pinned composites. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 2010 Jun;41(6):709–28. REFERENCES [3] Bogdanovich AE, Karahan M, Lomov S V., Verpoest I. Quasi-static tensile behaviour and damage of composite with 3D orthogonal woven fabric. Mech Mater. 2013; [1] carbon/epoxy Li M, Wang S, Zhang Z,reinforced Wu B. Effect of non-crimp structure on the mechanical behaviours of three62:14–31. dimensional spacer fabric composites. Appl Compos Mater. 2009 Feb;16(1):1–14. [4] Choi SW, Li M, Lee W Il, Kim HS. Analysis of buckling load of glass fibre/epoxy-reinforced plywood and its temperature dependence. J Compos Mater [Internet]. 2014 Aug 19 [cited 2020 Jan 18];48(18):2191– 206. Available from: http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/0021998313495071 [5] Awerbuch J, Madhukar MS. Notched Strength of Composite Laminates: Predictions and Experiments—A Review. Vol. 4, Journal of Reinforced Plastics and Composites. 1985. p. 3–159. 16 www.textile-leather.com


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[6] Toribio MG, Spearing SM. Compressive response of notched glass-fibre epoxy/honeycomb sandwich panels. Compos - Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 2001 Jun 1;32(6):859–70. [7] Potluri P, Kusak E, Reddy TY. Novel stitch-bonded sandwich composite structures. Compos Struct. 2003 Feb;59(2):251–9. [8] Karlsson KF, Åström BT. Manufacturing and applications of structural sandwich components. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 1997;28(2):97–111. [9] Vaidya AS, Vaidya UK, Uddin N. Impact response of three-dimensional multifunctional sandwich composite. Mater Sci Eng A. 2008 Jan 15;472(1–2):52–8. [10] Vaidya UK, Nelson S, Sinn B, Mathew B. Processing and high strain rate impact response of multifunctional sandwich composites. Compos Struct. 2001 May;52(3–4):429–40. [11] Neje G, Behera BK. Lateral Compressive Properties of Spacer Fabric Composites with Different Cell Shapes. Appl Compos Mater. 2018 Aug 1;25(4):725–34. [12] Mouritz AP, Leong KH, Herszberg I. A review of the effect of stitching on the in-plane mechanical properties of fibre-reinforced polymer composites. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 1997;28(12): 979–91. [13] Maschinenwesen F. Development of the Weaving Machine and 3D Woven Spacer Fabric Structures for Lightweight Composites Materials. [14] Arumugam V, Mishra R, Tunak M, Militky J. In-plane shear behaviour of 3D warp-knitted spacer fabrics: Part II—Effect of structural parameters. J Ind Text [Internet]. 2018 Oct 9 [cited 2020 Jan 19];48(4):772– 801. Available from: http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1528083717747332 [15] Abounaim M, Hoffmann G, Diestel O, Cherif C. Thermoplastic composite from innovative flat knitted 3D multi-layer spacer fabric using hybrid yarn and the study of 2D mechanical properties. Compos Sci Technol. 2010 Feb;70(2):363–70. [16] Hassanzadeh S, Hasani H, Zarrebini M. Thermoset composites reinforced by innovative 3D spacer weftknitted fabrics with different cross-section profiles: Materials and manufacturing process. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 2016 Dec 1; 91:65–76. [17] Mouritz AP, Bannister MK, Falzon PJ, Leong KH. Review of applications for advanced three-dimensional fibre textile composites. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 1999;30(12):1445–61. [18] Xiaogang Chen, Taylor LW, Tsai L-J. An overview on fabrication of three-dimensional woven textile preforms for composites. Text Res J [Internet]. 2011 Jun 26 [cited 2020 Jan 19];81(9):932–44. Available from: http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/0040517510392471 [19] Chen X, Wang H. Modelling and computer-aided design of 3D hollow woven reinforcement for composites. J Text Inst. 2006;97(1):79–87. [20] Styles M, Compston P, Kalyanasundaram S. The effect of core thickness on the flexural behaviour of aluminium foam sandwich structures. Compos Struct. 2007 Oct;80(4):532–8. [21] Lacy TE, Hwang Y. Numerical modelling of impact-damaged sandwich composites subjected to compression-after-impact loading. Compos Struct. 2003;61(1–2):115–28. [22] Vaidya UK, Hosur M V., Earl D, Jeelani S. Impact response of integrated hollow core sandwich composite panels. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 2000;31(8):761–72. [23] Fan H, Yang W, Zhou Q. Experimental research of compressive responses of multi-layered woven textile sandwich panels under quasi-static loading. Compos Part B Eng. 2011 Jul;42(5):1151–6. [24] Belingardi G, Cavatorta MP, Duella R. Material characterization of a composite-foam sandwich for the front structure of a high speed train. Compos Struct. 2003;61(1–2):13–25.

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[25] Vinson JR. Sandwich structures. Appl Mech Rev. 2001;54(3):201–14. [26] Torre L, Kenny JM. Impact testing and simulation of composite sandwich structures for civil transportation. Compos Struct. 2000;50(3):257–67. [27] Jin F, Chen H, Zhao L, Fan H, Cai C, Kuang N. Failure mechanisms of sandwich composites with orthotropic integrated woven corrugated cores: Experiments. Compos Struct. 2013 Apr; 98:53–8. [28] Van Vuure AW, Ivens JA, Verpoest I. Mechanical properties of composite panels based on woven sandwich-fabric preforms. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 2000;31(7):671–80. [29] Yokozeki T, Takeda S ichi, Ogasawara T, Ishikawa T. Mechanical properties of corrugated composites for candidate materials of flexible wing structures. Compos Part A Appl Sci Manuf. 2006 Oct;37(10): 1578–86. [30] Torun AR, Mountasir A, Hoffmann G, Cherif C. Production principles and technological development of novel woven spacer preforms and integrated stiffener structures. Appl Compos Mater. 2013 Jun;20(3):275–85. [31] US3090406A - Woven panel and method of making same - Google Patents [Internet]. [cited 2020 Jan 19]. Available from: https://patents.google.com/patent/US3090406A/en [32] Badawi SS. Development of the Weaving Machine and 3D Woven Spacer Fabric Structures for Lightweight Composites Materials. 2007;186. Available from: http://www.qucosa.de/fileadmin/data/ qucosa/documents/761/1195729741274-9389.pdf [33] Torun AR, Hoffmann G, Ünal A, Cherif C. Spacer fabrics from hybrid yarn with fabric structures as spacer. ICCM Int Conf Compos Mater. 2007;1–5. [34] Dou R, Qiu S, Ju Y, Hu Y. Simulation of compression behaviour and strain-rate effect for aluminium foam sandwich panels. Comput Mater Sci. 2016 Feb 1; 112:205–9.

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CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep Quality Tanima CHANDA1, Meenakshi AHIRWAR2, Bijoya Kumar BEHERA2* National Institute of Fashion Technology, Department of Master of Design, Bengaluru 560102, India Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, Department of Textile and Fiber Engineering, New Delhi 110016, India *behera@textile.iitd.ac.in 1 2

Original scientific article UDC 687.268.3:677.017.87 DOI: 10.31881/TLR.2020.01 Received 20 January 2020; Accepted 23 March 2020; Published 26 March 2020

ABSTRACT Bed linen is the material laid above the mattress of a bed that serves various purposes - hygiene, warmth, protection of the mattress – and also has a decorative effect in the room. According to several studies, the type of bed linen used for our sleep has a direct effect on our health; in other words, sleep quality is the ultimate performance indicator of bed linen cloth. In this research work, a relationship between bed linen properties and sleep quality was established. Bed linens serve as a basic requirement for sleep, and assessing the right kind of sheet is an important aspect to look into. Analyzing the basic properties of bed linen is an important exercise to perform in order to provide the user with the best-quality sleep. This research focuses on deriving an equation that can be applied to calculate the objective measurement of sleep quality with respect to bed linen properties by developing a bed linen sleep quality index. Questionnaires were designed and subjective evaluation method was followed. A panel of experts was considered for a subjective rating of bed linen properties, their weightage, ranking and bed linen fabrics assessment. Coefficient of concordance was calculated to determine the agreement among the judges and a discriminant analysis was also carried out to determine the variation of the individual rating for a particular property. The results showed a high correlation between the subjective index and the objective index for the bed linen fabric samples. Thus, the objective sleep quality index could be estimated well.

KEYWORDS

Bed linen, bed linen sleep quality index, subjective evaluation, discriminant analysis

INTRODUCTION Textile products are used in many sectors in various forms, one of which includes bed linen fabrics. Different sectors have different types of sheets in use, based on the area of use and purpose, such as hospitals, railways, hotels, homes, etc. Bed linen, also referred to as bed sheets, is a fabric placed immediately above the mattress of a bed to provide warmth, nice touch and a decorative effect. The major requirement for bed linen is to be comfortable, easy to take care of and durable. Softening is an essential step, required in the field of home textiles, including bed linens, to improve fabric properties making the fabric soft, smooth, and flexible [1]. The majority of bed linen is made from cotton and cotton/polyester blended yarns due to their comfort, level of hygiene, softness and water absorption capacity. Fabrics like cotton and its blends are considered www.textile-leather.com 19


CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

ideal for the household bed linen. Most of the people choose these fabrics as they are budget friendly and last long, as well. Depending on the end use, cost factor, durability of the textiles, comfort and aesthetic properties, the fiber choice is made between natural fiber, regenerated cellulosic fibers and synthetic fibers. Linen is also made of blends of other compatible natural and manmade fibers to achieve various structural and functional properties, and also to reduce costs. Linen fabrics produce excellent aesthetic and drape properties [2]. Thread count is essential while buying bed linen. The higher the thread count the better the wear-tear and softer the sheet. The GSM (g/m2) of the fabric, also referred to as the areal density of the fabric, also plays an important role i.e. higher GSM means that the bed sheet is plusher and more comfortable. Bed linens are mostly either dyed or printed, so the process must be chemical-free and good for the skin. The material and weave of the fabric determines its breathability i.e. whether it will remain cool or heat-up against our skin [3]. It was investigated that when people slept in comfortable beds their mean skin temperature was higher than when they slept in an uncomfortable bed and the skin temperature of the lower body, sleep efficiency as well as the percentage of deep sleep were also higher. The percentage of waking up after sleep onset was lower when people slept in a comfortable bed [4]. Comfort in bed is a complex phenomenon based on a subjective feeling as well as the physical properties of the interaction between the mattress and the human body [5, 6]. The comfort of the bed is evaluated by the quality of sleep [7]. Insufficient and poor sleep quality impairs cognitive performance in elderly people and impacts brain’s reward processing, risk-taking, and cognitive function in adolescents. The normative imbalance between affective and cognitive control systems may be exaggerated by poor sleep [8, 9]. About one-third of a person’s life is spent in sleep and lack of sleep time or sleep quality can affect human health. Sleep quality is affected by many factors, such as health conditions, emotional states, bedding condition and ambient environment. There have been limited researches about effects of bedding conditions on sleep quality and thermal comfort. Overall, bed linen is an integral part of bed micro-environment and its material and insulation level can affect the thermal comfort of sleep environment [10]. However, the exact elements that compose sleep quality, and their relative importance, may vary between individuals. Furthermore, because sleep quality is largely subjective, sleep laboratory measures may correlate with perceived sleep quality, but they cannot define it [8, 11]. As standards of living continue to improve, aesthetic characteristics of clothing become a primary consideration in determining serviceability and longevity of apparel fabrics. Apparel and household goods are often discarded for no other reason than that the fabrics lose the aesthetic appeal [12]. Sleep is essential for the body to recover from both physical and psychological fatigue suffered throughout the day and restore energy to maintain bodily functions [13]. The effects on sleep stages also differ depending on the use of bedding and/or clothing. The thermal environment is one of the most important factors that can affect human sleep [14, 15]. Apart from the bedroom environment, light in the room, temperature factor and color psychology, bed linen has direct contact with the human body at the time of sleep and it provides the foremost comfort/discomfort at the time. Our sleep positions, trapped body heat, sweat release and many more factors depend on the body-surface contact. The above-mentioned bed linen’s properties must work hand-in-hand to provide the best restful night [16]. The market is flooded with a variety of bed linens of different designs, endless color options and superior properties. Therefore, it becomes difficult for an individual to make the right choice. There is no scientific formula or objective evaluation of performance index with respect to bed linen at this time that would enable us to engineer better quality bed linens. Different people of different age groups perceive the quality of bed linen in relation to good sleep quality differently, according to their level of interpretation [17]. 20 www.textile-leather.com


CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

Therefore, in this research, a subjective assessment of bed linen properties in relation to sleep quality was conducted to derive objective measure of sleep quality. In the first step of the survey, the judges provided different desirable bed linen attributes essential for good night sleep and in the second step bed linen attributes were ranked according to their priority and also evaluated for weightage according to a 100-dollar test. In the second survey, the bed linen fabrics were evaluated for the selected properties by the judges on the basis of intensity of the attributes/properties. The research required surveying the people who are aware of how the quality of bed linen affects sleep quality. This would help to understand the preference of people and further help in developing the right bed linen sleep quality index. Finally, both of those surveys were assessed, compared and the developed index equation was used to calculate the sleep quality index for the most preferred bed linen fabrics. The correlation was checked between the subjective rating of bed linen fabrics for sleep quality and the objective index obtained.

EXPERIMENT Materials and Methods Different bed linen fabrics evaluated through subjective assessment to develop bed linen sleep quality index BLSQI (Bed Linen Sleep Quality Index) included 100% cotton fiber, viscose-cotton (45:55), modal-cotton (70:30), 100% modal (regenerated viscose rayon fiber), poly-modal fiber (52:48), poly-modal-linen (52:48) and 100% excel (regenerated viscose rayon fiber) as given in Table 1. Table 1. Properties of fabric samples Composition

Weave

GSM (g/m2)

EPI * PPI

100% cotton

Plain

130

80*65

45% viscose / 55% cotton

2/1 Twill

110

82*70

70% modal / 30% cotton

Satin

125

192*62/2

100% modal

Satin

125

188*60/2

52% polyester / 48% modal

Plain

128

114*86

55% poly-modal (52:48) / 45% linen

Plain

138

120*80

5 end satin

142

192*70*3

100% excel

Where: EPI is number of yarn in warp direction, picks per inch; PPI is number of yarn in warp direction, picks per inch

Descriptive quantitative survey for determining bed linen properties affecting sleep quality A subjective assessment was carried out to determine the relationship between bed linen properties and the sleep quality of an individual. The panel of 53 judges was constituted and these included academicians, experts from various sections of bed linen industry, research centers and consumers. A few number-based questionnaires were designed to record the exact scale value devoted to individual properties and included multiple choice questions to let the user select more than one option they prefer as shown in Figure 1. The survey was also carried out to determine the bed linen properties which affect sleep quality and also ranked the selected properties according to their priority as shown in Figure 2. The questions in the survey were more open ended, where users could share their level of awareness, views and ideas. The views of people were important to analyze the prototype preference material in the next stage of the subjective evaluation.

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CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29. 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 Figure 1. Questionnaire on the aspects of bed linen properties affecting sleep quality

143

Figure 1. Questionnaire on the aspects of bed linen properties affecting sleep quality

144 Determination of weightage contribution of bed linen properties by the $100 test 145 weightage Determination of weightage contribution bed linen properties by the $100by test The contribution of the bed linenofproperties was determined the subjective evaluation conducted by the panel constituting of 53 judges. The survey target population consisted of people of 146 The weightage contribution of the bed linen properties was determined by the subjective evaluation different age groups (>21) who may or may not be aware of quality of bed linen in relation to sleep quality. 147 conducted by the panel constituting of 53 judges. The survey target population consisted of people The sample chosen was a random population of individuals from India. The judges have to spend a total of 148 of of different ageamong groups the (>21) who may or may properties, not be aware of quality of the bed weightage linen in relation $100 virtual money different selected which defines of thetoproper149[18].sleep The of sample chosen wasproperty a randomcontributing population of fromwas India. The judgesand the ties The quality. weightage each individual to individuals sleep quality determined questionnaire designed in virtual Figure money 2. 150 have towas spend a totalasofshown $100 of among the different selected properties, which 151

defines the weightage of the properties [18]. The weightage of each individual property contributing

152

to sleep quality was determined and the questionnaire was designed as shown in Figure 2.

153 154

Figure 2. Questionnaire on the ranking and weightage of bed linen properties Figure 2. Questionnaire on the ranking and weightage of bed linen properties

155

22 www.textile-leather.com 156 Subjective assessment of bed linen fabrics for selected quality properties 157

The second survey was to understand the fabric preference and consumers’ desire for a good-quality


CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

Subjective assessment of bed linen fabrics for selected quality properties The second survey was to understand the fabric preference and consumers’ desire for a good-quality bed linen. For this survey, a few specific fabrics were considered which were already in use for making bed linens as given in Table 1. The subjective assessment of the selected seven samples was conducted and the data was collected from a panel comprising of 41 adult participants. The samples were evaluated for the selected properties i.e. fiber, feel etc. on the scale 0-5 as shown in Figure 3. The judges also rated the fabrics for subjective bed linen sleep quality index on the basis of the overall quality of the fabrics in reference to sleep quality on the scale 0-5.

164

Figure 3. Questionnaire based on the selected properties of bed linen fabrics

165

Figure 3. Questionnaire based on the selected properties of bed linen fabrics

166 Determination of agreement among the judges and discriminant analysis 167 Determination of agreement amonghad theto judges and discriminant analysisSome results may differ with the The data received through the surveys be validated on its trueness.

opinion on ranking. Therefore, to calculate the correctness of the survey data, a discriminant analysis was 168 The data received the surveys had to be validated its trueness. Some results may differ was performed. And also tothrough determine the agreement among the on judges, the coefficient of concordance foundwith out [19]. The formula used to calculate thetosame has been by anofexpert group comprised 169 the opinion on ranking. Therefore, calculate the derived correctness the survey data, a of highlydiscriminant experiencedanalysis weaving technologists in industry senior the fabric researchers from institu170 was performed. And also to and determine agreement among theacademic judges, the tions and research centers as given in equation 1. 171

coefficient of concordance was found out [19]. The formula used to calculate the same has been

12∑(Ri−R)2 r ∙n∙(n −1)

(1) Coefficient Concordance (W) =comprised 172 derivedofby an expert group 2 2 of highly experienced weaving technologists in industry and 173 fabric researchers institutions research centers as given in nequation 1. Rank Sum,from R = academic Mean of the Data, r =and Total Number of Judges, and = Total Number of wheresenior R = Average i

Grades

174

đ?&#x;?đ?&#x;?đ?&#x;?đ?&#x;? ∑(đ?‘šđ?‘š −đ?‘šđ?‘š)đ?&#x;?đ?&#x;?

đ?’Šđ?’Š Development linen sleep Basic approach Coefficientofofbed Concordance (W)quality = đ?&#x;?đ?&#x;? index: 175 đ?’“đ?’“ ∙đ?’?đ?’?∙(đ?’?đ?’?đ?&#x;?đ?&#x;? −đ?&#x;?đ?&#x;?)

(1)

The sleep quality of an individual mainly depends on the health condition, emotional state, bedding condition and the ambient environment. Bed linen quality factors affecting sleep quality depending on the user’s 177 = Average Rank Sum, = Mean of the Data,compress, r = Total Number of Judges, n =The Total Ri fiber, choicewhere include feel, color, drape,Rsmell, luster, stretch, wrinkle, design, andand print. design, 176

178 179 180

Number of Grades

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CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

pattern and luster of the fabric attribute to the texture of the fabric. The fiber properties along with drape and stretch attribute to the mechanical properties of the fabric. All these properties are directly linked to the aesthetic appearance of the fabric. Each of these quality parameters were quantified using subjective evaluation and integrated together to estimate a parameter called bed linen sleep quality index (BLSQI) as given in equation 2. n BLSQI: ∑i=1 Ai∙Wi

(2)

where n is the total number of properties, Ai is the grade of the ith property and Wi is the weightage of the ith property. In order to determine the weightage of each attribute, an expert panel was constituted and a survey was conducted to decide the contribution of each element to sleep quality of an individual. The obtained bed linen sleep quality index was normalized to obtain the data to a specific smaller range, from 1 to 5. During normalization of the data the units of measurement for the data were eliminated, enabling easy comparison of the data of different units [20]. Therefore, to normalize the eleven characteristics by shrinking the data in the range between 1 and 5, every characteristic result must come within this range by using the equation 3. This will further help to compare the objective bed linen sleep quality index with the subjective bed linen sleep quality index. The maximum value was 5, which indicated the fabric had a higher bed linen sleep quality index and the minimum value was 1, which indicated lower bed linen sleep quality index. Scaled characteristics =

Xi−mini ∙ (max range − min range) + min range maxi – mini

(3)

where i= the characteristics, Xi = characteristics value, Mini = minimum value of the characteristics, Maxi = maximum value of the characteristics, Max range = maximum value is 5, Min range = minimum value is 1

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Determination of the relationship between bed linen quality and sleep quality The survey was conducted to determine whether the sleep quality was affected by the bed linen quality or not. Majority of the population considered that the quality of bed linen fabrics directly affects their quality of sleep, which proves the hypothesis as shown in Figure 4.

Figure 4. Bed linen properties affecting the quality of sleep

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CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

Determination of bed linen properties affecting sleep quality The bed linen properties preferred by the consumers and judges included fiber type, feel, color, drape, smell, luster, stretch, compress, wrinkle, design and print. The preferred quality factors were also prioritized by the judges in the ascending order with 1 being the most preferred quality and 11 being the last as given in Table 2. Table 2. Weight distribution and ranking of bed linen properties Properties

Ranking

Weightage (Wi)

Fiber

1

42.8

Color

2

15.1

Smell

3

15.7

Feel

4

27.9

Design

5

10.2

Print

6

8.4

Compressibility

7

6.2

Luster

8

3.6

Drape

9

4.7

Stretchability

10

6.0

Wrinkle

11

8.6

Determination of the weightage and the ranking of bed linen properties According to the $100 test, the judges have to spend a total of $100 of virtual money among different quality properties, which defines the weightage of the properties as given in Table 2. The weightage of each individual property contributing to sleep quality was determined. Though the feel factor was chosen as the most preferred factor for quality sleep, fiber factor received absolute majority in the 100$ test.

Subjective assessment of bed linen fabrics based on selected bed linen properties This survey was conducted to rate the bed linen fabrics based on the properties obtained from Table 2.The fabrics were rated on the scale 0-5 with 0 being the poor quality and 5 being the excellent quality as given in Table 3. The rated value denotes Ai value in the equation 2. The fabrics were also rated for subjective sleep quality index as given in Table 4. Table 3. Subjective evaluation of properties of bed linen fabrics Properties (Ai)

Stretch- CompressiDrape ability bility

Fiber

Feel

Color

Smell

Design

Wrinkle

Print

100% Cotton

3.7

3.5

3.8

2.7

3.9

4.3

3.4

2.6

2.7

3.8

3.9

Viscose-cotton

3.2

4.1

2.8

2.6

3.8

2.2

3.6

3.2

3.4

2.4

3.6

Modal-cotton

4.2

4.5

3.9

2.6

3.8

3.6

3.8

3.5

3.2

3.8

4.2

100% Modal

4.5

4.6

3.6

3.8

3.6

4.2

3.2

3.6

2.8

3.4

4.3

Poly-Modal

4.3

4.1

3.5

3.6

3.8

4.3

3.6

3.2

3.3

3.7

4.1

Poly-Modal-Linen

3.8

3.6

3.5

2.9

3.7

4.1

3.9

3.4

3.7

4.2

4.3

100% Excel

3.1

3.5

2.9

2.8

3.6

2.7

3.9

4.1

3.6

3.6

3.9

Fabrics

Luster

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CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

Table 4. Subjective bed linen sleep quality index Fabric samples

Subjective BLSQI

100% Cotton

2.9

Viscose-cotton

1.8

Modal-cotton

4.6

100% Modal

4.5

Poly-Modal

4.0

Poly-Modal-Linen

3.5

100% Excel

2.0

Determination of agreement among the judges and discriminant analysis The data received by the users must be validated on its trueness. The correctness of the survey data was calculated by performing a discriminant analysis. The discriminant analysis was carried out to determine the weight contribution of the individual bed linen attributes. The differences in subjective rating among the judges while ranking the fabrics for different bed linen attributes is shown in Figure 5. and the differences in subjective rating among judges while rating the subjective bed linen sleep quality index is shown in Figure 6. To determine the agreement among the participants, the coefficient of concordance was determined. The 0.71 gives reasonably good agreement among theindicates experts inthat the evaluati process good of theagreement survey data 276 value ranking of bed linen properties. The value of 0.61 there ison relatively relating to selection and ranking of bed linen properties. The value of 0.61 indicates that there is relatively 277 among the survey results relating to subjective bed linen sleep quality index of fabrics. good agreement among the survey results relating to subjective bed linen sleep quality index of fabrics. 278 100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%

279

1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 FIBER

COLOR

SMELL

FEEL

DESIGN

PRINT

COMPRESSIBILITY

LUSTER

DRAPE

STRETCH-ABILITY

WRINKLE

Figure 5. Discriminant analysis of rating of bed linen properties for fabric samples

280

Figure 5. Discriminant analysis of rating of bed linen properties for fabric samples

281 100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%

1 3 5 7 26 www.textile-leather.com

282

Cotton

9

Viscose-cotton

11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 Modal-cotton

Modal

Poly-Modal

Poly-Modal-Linen

Excel


DRAPE

279 280

STRETCH-ABILITY

WRINKLE

CHANDA T et.,Figure Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance to Sleep... TEXT LEATH 5. Discriminant analysis of rating ofwith bed Respect linen properties for fabric samplesREV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

281 100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%

282 283

1

Cotton

3

5

7

9

11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41

Viscose-cotton

Modal-cotton

Modal

Poly-Modal

Poly-Modal-Linen

Excel

Figure 6. Discriminant analysis of subjective bed linen sleep quality index Figure 6. Discriminant analysis of subjective bed linen sleep quality index

284 Development of bed linen sleep quality index bed linen sleep index wasquality evaluated by using the developed equation number 2. The Wi in the 285 TheDevelopment of quality bed linen sleep index equation was the obtained weightage and Ai in the equation was the bed linen properties i.e. feel, color etc. respect to the fabrics. An integrated for sleep quality on bed linen properti es 2. was deter286 with The bed linen sleep quality index was index evaluated by using thebased developed equation number The Wi using the equati given inweightage Table 5. The values 5 were normalized to obtain the data in the equation wason the2 as obtained and Ai in in 287 mined theTable equation was the bed linen properties i.e.to a specific smaller range, from 1 to 5. To validate the above data, the values were normalized within a smaller 288 feel, color etc. with respect to the fabrics. An integrated index for sleep quality based on bed linen range. The bed linen sleep quality index obtained after the normalization technique is given in Table 6. 289 properties was determined using the equation 2 as given in Table 5. The values in Table 5 were

290

Table 5. Bed linen sleep quality index without normalization

normalized to obtain the data to a specific smaller range, from 1 to 5. To validate the above data, Fabric samples

11

BLSQI = ∑ i=1Ai∙Wi

100% Cotton

524.34

Viscose-cotton

486.89

Modal-cotton

580.48

100% Modal

605.10

Poly-Modal

585.59

Poly-Modal-Linen

545.78

100% Excel

488.66

Table 6. Bed linen sleep quality index with normalization Fabric

BLSQI

100% Cotton

2.27

Viscose-cotton

1.00

Modal-cotton

4.17

100% Modal

5.00

Poly-Modal

4.33

Poly-Modal-Linen

2.99

100% Excel

1.11

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CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

Determination of correlation between subjective and objective bed linen sleep quality index The subjective BLSQI was obtained by the experts by subjective evaluation, whereas the objective BLSQI was obtained by the developed equation 2. The correlation coefficient obtained for subjective and objective BLSQI was 0.95 as shown in Figure 7, which indicated a very good correlation between those two sets of values. 5

y = 0,6957x + 1,2544 R² = 0,9512

4,5

Subjective BLSQI

4 3,5 3 2,5 2 1,5 1 0,5 0

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

Objective BLSQI

304

Figure 7. Correlation between the subjective and the objective BLSQI

305

Figure 7. Correlation between the subjective and the objective BLSQI

306 CONCLUSION 307 CONCLUSION The hypothesis that the sleep quality is directly proportional to bed linen quality was proved. While evaluating bed linen quality through subjective assessment, most people prioritized the fiber and the feel of the 308 Therather hypothesis thatcolor the or sleep quality is directly proportional to bed linen quality While bed linen, than the other properties associated with aesthetics. Though thewas fiberproved. factor was chosenevaluating as the mostbed preferred factorthrough for quality sleep, the feel factor most received absolute majority the and 100$the 309 linen quality subjective assessment, people prioritized theinfiber test with 29% weightage among the total 11 considered bed-linen properties. The fiber factor received the 310 feel of the bed linen, rather than the color or other properties associated with aesthetics. Though highest weightage because the thermal and moisture properties, breathability etc. of the fabric are mainly 311 the fiber factor was chosen as the most preferred factor for quality sleep, the feel factor received dependent on fiber properties, and sweat release, body temperature and trapped body heat have an impor312 absolute majority sleep. in theThe 100$ test withamong 29% weightage the total0.71 11 and considered tant role in good-quality agreement the judgesamong was also good, 0.61, forbed-linen rating the bed-linen properties of different samples the subjective respectively. The development 313 properties. The fiber factor fabric received the and highest weightageBLSQI because the thermal and moisture of bed linen sleep quality index provided the objective sleep index value for seven fabrics. The correlation 314 properties, breathability etc. of the fabric are mainly dependent on fiber properties, and sweat coefficient for the subjective and objective BLSQI was 0.95, which indicated an excellent correlation. Thus, 315 release, bodyquality temperature and be trapped bodywell heatfollowing have anthe important roleprocedure. in good-quality sleep. The the objective sleep index could estimated developed This research 316 agreement thethe judges was also of good, and 0.61, for rating bed-linen can further help in among calculating performance more0.71 introduced options in thethe wide sector ofproperties bed linens of ahead in time sofabric that consumers arethe ablesubjective to get good-quality sleep. 317 different samples and BLSQI respectively. The development of bed linen sleep 318

quality index provided the objective sleep index value for seven fabrics. The correlation coefficient

319

for the subjective and objective BLSQI was 0.95, which indicated an excellent correlation. Thus, the

320

objective sleep quality index could be estimated well following the developed procedure. This

321

research can further help in calculating the performance of more introduced options in the wide

322

sector of bed linens ahead in time so that consumers are able to get good-quality sleep.

323 28 www.textile-leather.com 324


CHANDA T et., Appraisal of Bed Linen Performance with Respect to Sleep... TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 19-29.

REFERENCES [1] Abreu MJ, Vidrago C, Soares GM. Optimization of the thermal comfort properties of bed linen using different softening formulations. Tekst ve Konfeksiyon. 2014;24(2):219–23. [2] Sundaresan S, Ramesh M, Sabitha V, Ramesh M, Ramesh V. A detailed analysis on physical and comfort properties of bed linen woven fabrics. Ijariie. 2016;2(2):1649–58. [3] Gupte AV. Thread count , breathability & more : Here ’ s how to choose the right bed linen. The Economic Times. 2018;1–5. [4] Park SJ, Lee HJ. The Relationship between Sleep Quality and Mattress Types. Proc Hum Factors Ergon Soc Annu Meet. 2002;46(6):745–9. [5] Okamoto K, Mizuno K, Okudaira N. The effects of a newly designed air mattress upon sleep and bed climate. Appl Hum Sci. 1997;16(4):161–6. [6] Suckling EE, Koenig EH, Hoffman B. The physiological effects of sleeping on hard or soft beds. Hum Biol. 1957;29(3):274. [7] Webb WB, Agnew HW. Stage 4 sleep: Influence of time course variables. Science (80- ). 1971;174(4016):1354–6. [8] Buysse DJ, Reynolds CF, Monk TH, Berman SR, Kupfer DJ. Buysse DJ, Reynolds CF, Monk TH, Berman SR, Kupfer DJ. The Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index: a new instrument for psychiatric practice and research. Psychiatry Res. 1989;28:193–213. 1989; [9] Telzer EH, Fuligni AJ, Lieberman MD, Galván A. The effects of poor quality sleep on brain function and risk taking in adolescence. Neuroimage [Internet]. 2013;71:275–83. Available from: http://dx.doi. org/10.1016/j.neuroimage.2013.01.025 [10] He M, Lian Z, Chen P. Effect of Quilt Materials on Sleep Quality and Thermal Comfort for Young People in East China. Procedia Eng [Internet]. 2017;205:43–9. Available from: https://doi.org/10.1016/j. proeng.2017.09.932 [11] Krystal AD, Edinger JD. Measuring sleep quality. Sleep Med. 2008;9(SUPPL. 1):10–7. [12] Behera BK, Mishra R. Objective measurement of fabric appearance using digital image processing. J Text Inst. 2006;97(2):147–53. [13] Opp MR. Sleeping to fuel the immune system: Mammalian sleep and resistance to parasites. BMC Evol Biol. 2009;9(1):1–3. [14] Zhang B, Wing YK. Sex differences in insomnia: A meta-analysis. Sleep. 2006;29(1):85–93. [15] Okamoto-mizuno K, Mizuno K. Effects of thermal environment on human sleep and thermoregulation. Japanese J Biometeorol. 2014;50(4):125–34. [16] Vidrago C, Abreu MJ, Soares GMB. Influence of different finishing treatments over mechanical and thermal properties of bed linen. Fiber Soc 2012 Spring Conf Fiber Res Tomorrow’s Appl. 2012;2–4. [17] Lan L, Tsuzuki K, Liu YF, Lian ZW. Thermal environment and sleep quality: A review. Energy Build [Internet]. 2017;149:101–13. Available from: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.enbuild.2017.05.043 [18] Chatzipetrou P, Angelis L, Rovegård P, Wohlin C. Prioritization of issues and requirements by cumulative voting: A compositional data analysis framework. Proc - 36th EUROMICRO Conf Softw Eng Adv Appl SEAA 2010. 2010;361–70. [19] Kendall M. G, Babington Smith B. The Problem of m Rankings. Inst Math Stat. 2019;10(3):275–87. [20] Saranya C, Manikandan G. A Study on Normalization Techniques for Privacy Preserving Data Mining. 2013;5(3):2701–4.

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YILMAZ E et al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 30-39.

Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool Ebru YILMAZ1, Pınar ÇELİK2, Ayşegül KÖRLÜ2, Saadet YAPAR1* Ege University, Engineering Faculty, Chemical Engineering Department, 35040, Bornova/İzmir, Turkey, Ege University, Engineering Faculty, Textile Engineering Department, 35040, Bornova/İzmir, Turkey * saadetyapar@gmail.com 1 2

Original scientific article UDC 677.014:677.31 DOI: 10.31881/TLR.2019.12 Received 23 October 2018; Accepted 10 February 2020; Published Online 25 February 2020; Published 26 March 2020

ABSTRACT In this study, the adsorption/desorption behaviours of water vapor on wool, as well as of the redolents, such as acetic acid and benzaldehyde, have been investigated. For this purpose, static and dynamic experiments were carried out. Static experiments were conducted to model stagnant environments. In the experiments, wool came into contact with the material to be adsorbed or dry air and the weight increase/decrease was recorded for a certain period of time. The results obtained showed that the wool adsorbed the benzaldehyde very little, whereas the adsorbed amount and the rate were abundantly increased for acetic acid under the same conditions. From these findings, the adsorption capacity of wool for the redolents was tentatively ranked in accordance with their adsorbed amounts as acetic acid >water>benzaldehyde.

KEYWORDS Wool, fibre, odour, adsorption, desorption, redolent, acetic acid, benzaldehyde

INTRODUCTION Today, environmental pollution and energy scarcity are some of the most important problems for humanity. Environmental problems caused by industrial manufacturing can be studied under 4 classes: air, water, solid waste pollution and noise [1]. Malodour is also a part of air pollution. Solution methods of environmental problems are [2, 3, 4] - cleaner technologies, - reuse, - recycling, - recovery, - storage without recycling, - disposal by burning. In this study, the use of waste wool and odour management was examined from two different viewpoints. The wool, which is a solid waste, has a new application in the field of odour management and has therefore gained economical value. On the other hand, the control of body odour is an important issue because of clothing comfort. The results in this paper can give an idea about the effect of wool on the body odour control. 30 www.textile-leather.com


YILMAZ E et al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 30-39.

Odour is a feeling given by odorant molecules dissolved in air. A molecule which is odorant achieves the following conditions [5]: - It has to be fastened to an odorant receptor. - It has to result in the odorant receptor transmitting the recognition to the brain. - The brain has to admit that it is a signal which can be clarified. The reason for the bad smell of things is that it is malodorous because of its nature, or it starts to spread bad smell with decomposition. Sources of indoor pollution are shown in Figure 1 [6]. Gasses emitting some bad odour can show poison effect at high concentration. This adverse situation requires the removal of malodorous gasses. Besides, the smell affects people in a number of ways. Strong, unpleasant and repulsive smells can prevent a person from enjoying life if they are frequent and/or persistent. Main factors related to sensory scent anxiety: repellency, duration of exposure to the olfactory, the frequency of the fragrance, the tolerance and expectation of the recipient. Unpleasant odours are a source of concern about air quality and affect people’s daily living conditions, and they also warn people of danger. The ever-increasing global population and industrialization levels deteriorate the air quality in and around the emission sources and thus the requisition for sustainable volatile organic compounds (VOC) odour control technologies become more and more important [6, 7]. The external atmosphere, heating type, efficiency of ventilation and the materials used in construction of the building itself which can emit VOC affect the quality of indoor air. The factors like temperature, humidity, and air flow have an effect on odour retention and odour release by textile materials, as well as formation of odour. [8, 9, 10]. There are many studies and patents reporting the works done on the removal of smell through various methods involving the evaluation of an apparatus for this aim. In the studies, the materials managing the odour of indoor air are very different from each other. For instance, a newly isolated autotrophic bacterium, Thiobacillus thioparus DW44, which is capable of degrading sulphur-containing gasses, was inoculated into a pilot-scale peat biofilter to treat the exhaust gas from a night soil treatment plant [11]. Activated carbon, ozonation and aerated biofilters were applied to eliminate odour-causing compounds that occur in wastewater and effluents from the activated sludge process [12]. A field experiment was conducted using a full-scale ceramic biofilter (approximately 150 m3/min) in order to determine the potential of biofiltration in removing malodorous gasses from composting facilities. It was estimated that the deodorization using this ceramic biofilter was successfully carried out to remove the odour emitted from composting facilities [13] (Figure 1.). Stefanowski et al. (2015; 2016) examined the effect of an MDF panel on mould growth and the absorption of the VOCs. The MDF panel was composed of a mix of pine, fir and spruce wood chips and a urea-formaldehyde Resin. VOC scavengers in the MDF panel were walnut shells and peanut shells in three different loading percentages. The solid pine wood was the control sample. The VOCs were toluene, limonene and formaldehyde. It was found that the MDF panel, modified by the addition of walnut shell or peanut shell, absorbs formaldehyde, toluene and limonene [14, 15]. Stefanowski et al. (2017) studied lignocellulosic nut waste as an absorbent for formaldehyde. The study concluded that the nitrogen content of the waste affected formaldehyde absorption positively [16]. Silva et al. reported that the walnut shell in the MDF panel increased the specific surface area of the panel because of the porous surface of the walnut shell. And MDF panels containing walnut shell absorbed VOCs easily [17]. Additionally, there are many patents appearing in other studies on developing novel methods, compositions and apparatus for the removal of odour [18-24]. These evaluated novel compositions and methods for www.textile-leather.com 31


YILMAZ etofal., of the odour adsorption‌. LEATH (0) 2020 00-00. YILMAZ E et al., EBRU Determination theDetermination Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXTTEXT LEATH REV REV 3 (1)02020 30-39.

Fungal spores and emissions Pollen Allergens Particulate matter

Radon Tobacco (present and previous)

CO, CO2, PM, VOCs, PAHs

Cooking/heating

CO, CO2, PM, PAHs

Fires (woodfire, gas fire, pilot lights, candles)

CO, CO2, PM,VOCs

Cleaning chemicals

VOCs

Sweeping, vaccuming

PM

Pesticide/biocide

VOCs

Source of indoor pollution

Combustion

Cleaning Internal activity

Fungal spores & emissions Water/moisture damage

Microbial growth Bacteria

Body odour

VOCs

Deodorizers/fragrances

VOCs

Individuals and pets

Traffic

CO, CO2, NOx, VOCs

Industrial pollutants

VOCs, various

Paints

VOCs

External activity

Anthroprogenic pollutants

Caulk/sealants

VOCs

Adhesives

VOCs, formaldehyde

Construction/refurbishment products Heaters Ventillating systems & humidifiers

CO, CO2,VOCs Fungal spores & emissions, PM, Bacteria

Insulation

VOCs, formaldehyde, fungal spores & emissions

Furniture

VOCs, formaldehyde

Office equipment

VOCs, O3

Household products

Figure Sourcesofofindoor indoorpollution pollution[6] [6] Figure 1. 1. Sources

32 www.textile-leather.com


YILMAZ E et al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 30-39.

reducing odour contain at least one synthetic zeolite, at least one acid and at least one substance selected from a metal oxide, metal, or salt of a metal or metal oxide. A wide range of odours, including ammonia and sulphurous odours, may be controlled by contacting an effective amount of the above composition with the article, substance or environment that emits the undesired odour [18]. An apparatus for delivering an odour-reducing chemical to a toilet bowl, comprising of a pressurized source of odour-reducing chemicals and a valve for selectively releasing odour-reducing chemicals from the pressurized source, communicatively connected to the pressurized source of odour-reducing chemicals, was improved on [19]. A process and an apparatus for treating gasses containing odoriferous constituents have been improved on. The process was carried out by condensation [20]. An invention for a novel odour-removing and deodorizing composition, which contains a hydrolysate of keratin material as its effective component, was improved on. The hydrolysis of keratin material may be affected by any known methods using acid, alkali or enzyme [21]. After aerating sewage sludge in a composting process, a stream of process air is treated to remove odours therefrom by injecting an atomized mixture of dilute sulfuric acid and dilute surfactant into the airstream to remove ammonia and odorous organic compounds therefrom [22]. There is a research about the compositions useful for maintaining the impression of cleanliness of a carpet (that is, its scent and appearance) over an extended time despite occurrences that might damage the carpet surface. The composition, which includes an antimicrobial agent, an enzyme inhibitor, and an odour-reacting compound, can be used by a consumer to remove contaminants from the carpet and to prevent the odour associated with the decomposition of future contamination [23]. The development of an odour and moisture-removing apparatus and a method for manufacturing the same, suitable for insertion in a shoe or a boot, is another invention reported in the studies. The apparatus includes an outer shell which encloses layers of a woven porous fabric. A porous and absorbent felted material such as “silence cloth� is enclosed between the top/bottom layers and the layers holding the desiccant material. Further, a desiccant material is included [24]. Wool is a well-known and a common animal fibre. As a result of its complex physical and chemical structure, wool is odour-resistant, flame-retardant, breathable and naturally antibacterial [9, 25]. Wool absorbs and binds with many of the noxious compounds in the polluted indoor air because of the side chains of the various amino acids in its chemical structure. It can react with disulphide bonds in wool due to the reductive structure of the sulphur dioxide. The sulphitolysis reaction is irreversible. Wool is very useful for controlling body odour, too [9]. The build-up and release of odour, generated by the usage, is an undesirable feature for textile items. The odour arising from the secretions of the human body like the sweat glands, urine, faeces, skin, and genitals becomes an important problem for textile items due to its adherence and persistence within textiles (Figure 2). Eccrine and apocrine sweat glands are the main physiological contributors to body odour; however, the secretions from sebaceous glands, found in different areas of the body, promote to odour. Besides, ingesting foods (garlic, onions, etc.), alcohol and some therapeutic drugs strengthen the body odour [10] (Figure 2.). A highly complex and versatile odour problem resides within textiles. Textile materials can absorb and subsequently release volatile substances in gas form. These substances, called odorants, are realized by the olfactory organ. The non-odorous compounds are transformed into odorous compounds by some specific microorganisms under prolonged dampness conditions. Odours or precursors can be adsorbed to textile materials from liquid media such as sweat and washing water. Hydrophilicity of textile materials has effect on odour sorption. Fibres can sorb odorous substances directly and desorb them in a different amount [10]. www.textile-leather.com 33


YILMAZ E et al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 30-39.

Nitrogen H2S, Mercaptans* Sulfides* Thiazoles Thiophenes

Sulphur

Alcohols* Aldehydes* Ketones / Esters* Acids* Furanes Amines* Pyrazines* Pyrridines Nitriles Pyrroles Indole

Alkenes Terpenes Some Alkanes

Aromatics

Oxygen

BTEXS / BHT

Hydrocarbons Figure 2. Figure Potentially odorant odorant substances at the interface of human skin and [26] [26] 2. Potentially substances at the interface of human skintextile and textile

Woollen clothes absorb body odours and trap them within the fibre until washing because of the complex Woollen clothes absorb body odours and trap them within the fibre until washing because of the chemical and physical structure of wool. Perspiration swells the fibres and odour molecules diffuse into complex of chemical and physical structure of wool. Perspiration thefibres fibresshrink. and odour the structure wool. Then the sorbed moisture evaporates and theswells swollen As a molecules result of diffuse intowool thefibres, structure of wool. Then the sorbed moisture and the shrinking of the the odour molecules are trapped within theevaporates structure. During theswollen washing,fibres the fibresshrink. swell and molecules are released [9]. molecules are trapped within the As odour a result of shrinking of the into woolwashing fibres, water the odour The sorption of water vapor, odorants and other harmful substances takes place by different mechanisms. structure. During the washing, the fibres swell and odour molecules are released into washing water Additionally, there are differences in behaviour between various wool breeds. Ormondroyd et al. [8] [9]. that these differences cannot be directly assigned to the variation in fibre composition because concluded the history and the of treatments of different fibreand types is not known.substances Many of the harmful substances in The sorption water vapor, odorants other harmful takes place by different indoor air are absorbed by wool fibres the interaction with the amino acid side chainswool of thebreeds. wool mechanisms. Additionally, therethrough are differences in behaviour between various fibres [9]. Ormondroyd et al. [8] concluded that these differences cannot be directly assigned to the variation in The Dynamic Vapour Sorption (DVS) techniques are the most commonly used methods among the methods fibre composition because the history andused the treatments fibresmells typesusing is notwaste known. Many previously mentioned [27, 28, 29]. The method in this studyoftodifferent remove bad wool is cheapofand and substances also harmless. Pure acetic acid and benzaldehyde are through used as odorants. theeasy, harmful in indoor air are absorbed by wool fibres the interaction with the

amino acid side chains of the wool fibres [9].

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The Dynamic Vapour Sorption (DVS) techniques are the most commonly used methods among the In this study, acetic acid and benzaldehyde were used as odorants and silica gel as a drying agent. The odormethods previously mentioned [27, 28, 29]. The method used in this study to remove bad smells ants were used as supplied. Acetic acid was obtained from UPARC with a minimum of 99.5 % purity. Benzaldehyde was obtained from Merck with a minimum of 99 % purity. Before all the experiments, wool sliver, cut into a 25 cm piece, was brought to constant weight by drying over a silica gel layer. The experiments were conducted in an air-conditioned room at 20°C.

34 www.textile-leather.com


Dynamic experiments YILMAZ E et al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 30-39.

Dynamic method is an accelerated test method and it is applied in order to determine the transport of the smell on the wool by the air current and the absorptivity of the odour in a short time. For this

Dynamic experiments

purpose, the device given in Figure 3 was installed and used. Dynamic an56 accelerated testconducted method and is appliedthe in order to containing determine the transport of the The air method at a rateisof ml/min was firstit through column odorant and over smell on the wool by the air current and the absorptivity of the odour in a short time. For this purpose, the the wool placed in a U-tube. The weight of wool, the air flow rate, relative humidity and temperature device given in Figure 3 was installed and used. were intervals. first The through experiments were ended when the change in weight The air atrecorded a rate of at 56 certain ml/min time was conducted the column containing odorant and over the wool placed in a U-tube.The The same weightexperimental of wool, the air flow rate, was relative humidity recorded was negligible. procedure followed forand thetemperature desorption were but odorant at certain time intervals. The experiments were ended when the change in weight was negligible. The same column was replaced by silica gel. experimental procedure was followed for the desorption but odorant column was replaced by silica gel.

EBRU YILMAZ et al., Determination of the odour adsorption‌. TEXT LEATH REV 0 (0) 2020 00-00. Figure 3. Dynamic experiments Figure 3. Dynamic experiments

Statichumidity experiments and temperature were recorded. When the change in the weight of the sample was insignificant the experiment was ended and the drying cycle was started in another desiccator The static experiments were conducted to determine the odour-absorptive capacity of wool under static Static experiments conditions and asilica desiccator was used to simulate a stagnant medium (Figure 4). The dry wool was placed containing gel. into a desiccator containing odorant and weighed at regular intervals and relative humidity and temperaThe static experiments were conducted to determine the odour-absorptive capacity of wool under ture were recorded. When the change in the weight of the sample was insignificant the experiment was staticand conditions andcycle a desiccator wasinused to simulate a stagnant medium (Figure 4). The dry wool ended the drying was started another desiccator containing silica gel.

was placed into a desiccator containing odorant and weighed at regular intervals and relative

Figure experiments Figure4. 4. Static Static experiments

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The results of the dynamic and static experiments were given in Figures 5a, 5b, 6a, 6b, 7 and 8. The wool The results of the dynamic and static experiments were given in Figures 5a, 5b, 6a, 6b, 7 and 8. The has considerable adsorption capacity for acetic acid and benzaldehyde, which emit unpleasant odours. As wool has considerable adsorption capacity for acetic acid and benzaldehyde, which emit unpleasant shown in Figures, the adsorbed amount of acetic acid is the highest and this could be explained by the existAs shown in Figures, the adsorbed amount of acetic acid is the highest and this could be ence odours. of the interaction between COOH group of acid and NH2 group of wool. The comparison of adsorpexplained by the existence of thewools interaction between COOH group of capacity acid and of NH2 wool. was tion behaviours of used and unused showed that the adsorption thegroup usedofmaterial slightly decreased. The comparison of adsorption behaviours of used and unused wools showed that the adsorption capacity of the used material was slightly decreased. Dynamic experiments

www.textile-leather.com 35


explained by the existence of the interaction between COOH group of acid and NH2 group of wool. The of adsorption behaviours of used and unused showed adsorption YILMAZ E etcomparison al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Woolwools TEXT LEATH REVthat 3 (1)the 2020 30-39. capacity of the used material was slightly decreased. Dynamic experiments

Dynamic experiments

Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

1,0 0,8 Water

0,6

Acetic Acid

0,4

EBRU YILMAZ et al., Determination of the odour adsorption…. TEXT LEATH REV 0 (0) 2020 00-00. 0,2 Benzaldehyde 0,0

Desorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

0 20 Figure 5a. 40 80 on wool. 100 Adsorption of60 various odorants EBRU YILMAZ et al., Determination of the Time, odourhadsorption…. TEXT LEATH REV 0 (0) 2020 00-00. 1,0 Figure 5a. Adsorption of various odorants on wool.

0,8 Figure 5a. Adsorption of various odorants on wool.

Desorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

1,0

0,6

0,8

Water 0,4

0,6

Water

0,2

0,4

0,0

0,2 0,0

Acetic Acid

Acetic Acid

0

20

0

20

40

Time, h

60

80

100

Figure 5b. Desorption of various odorants on wool. 40

Time, h

60

80

100

Figure Desorption of various odorants on wool. Figure 5b.5b. Desorption of various odorants on wool.

Static Experiments

Static Experiments Static Experiments Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

1,0

Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

1,0 0,8 0,6

0,8 0,6 Water

0,4

Water

0,4

Acetic Acid

Acetic Acid

0,2

0,2 0,0

0

0,0

0

100

100

200

200 300

300

400 Time, h

400 500 500 h 600 Time,

600

700

800

700

Figure 6a. Adsorption of various materials on wool. Figure 6a. Adsorption of various materials on wool.

Figure 6a. Adsorption of various materials on wool.

36 www.textile-leather.com

800


YILMAZ al., Determination the odour adsorption…. LEATH 0 (0) 2020 00-00. EBRUEBRU YILMAZ et al.,etDetermination of theofodour adsorption…. TEXT TEXT LEATH REV 0REV (0) 2020 00-00.

1,0

1,0

0,8

1,0 0,8

0,6

0,8 0,6

0,4

0,6 0,4

0,2

0,4 0,2

Desorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool Desorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

Desorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

EBRU YILMAZ et al., Determination of the odour adsorption…. TEXT LEATH REV 0 (0) 2020 00-00. YILMAZ E et al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 30-39.

0,0

0,2 0,0 0 0 0,0

AceticAcetic Acid Acid WaterWater Acetic Acid Water

100 100

300 300 400 400 500 500 h Time,Time, h 100 200 300 400 500 6b. Desorption ofhvarious materials on wool FigureFigure 6b. Desorption ofTime, various materials on wool

0

200 200

Figure 6b. Desorption of various materials on wool

Figure 6b. Desorption of various materials on wool

1,0

Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

1,0 0,8

1,0 0,8

0,6

0,8 0,6

0,4

0,6 0,4

0,2

0,4 0,2

0,0

Acetic acidacid with used wool Acetic with used wool Acetic acidacid with unused wool Acetic with unused wool Acetic acid with used wool Acetic acid with unused wool

0,2 0,0 0 0 0,0

200 200

400 400 600 600 800 800 h Time,Time, h 0 200 400 600 800 Figure 7.7.Comparison of the theofadsorption adsorption behaviour unused wool with that of wool used in in the adsorption 7. Comparison the adsorption behaviour of unused wool with of the wool used the adsorption FigureFigure Comparison behaviour ofofunused wool with that ofthat thethe wool used in the adsorption Time, h

Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

Adsorbed amount, g odor/g dry wool

Figure 7. Comparison of the adsorption behaviour of unused wool with that of the wool used in the adsorption 1,0 1,0 0,8

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Figure 8. Adsorption of various odorants on wool

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8. Adsorption of various on wool Time, hodorants FigureFigure 8. Adsorption of various odorants on wool Figure 8. Adsorption of various odorants on wool

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YILMAZ E et al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 30-39.

CONCLUSION The results of the experiments showed that wool has a potential for removing malodorous substances. A comparison of the equilibrium-adsorbed amounts and the time indicated that the benzaldehyde has the smallest adsorption rate and the equilibrium-adsorbed amount was 0.11 g odour / g dry wool for 72 h contact time. For water and acetic acid, these values were 0.22 g moisture / g dry wool and 26 h and 0.69 g odour/g dry wool and 25 h, respectively. The adsorption capacity of wool was slightly decreased when it is reused after regeneration carried out by the desorption in air.

REFERENCES [1] Hou Q. Influence of Media Supervision on Environmental Pollution Control. Ekoloji [Internet]. 2019;108:1493-1497. [cited 2020 Jan 25]. Available from: http://www.ekolojidergisi.com/article/ influence-of-media-supervision-on-environmental-pollution-control-6515 [2] Taherzadeh M, Bolton K, Wong J, Pandey A, editors. Sustainable Resource Recovery and Zero Waste Approaches. Elsevier; 2019. Chapter 6, Sustainable Management of Solid Waste; p. [88-92]. [3] Pires A, Martinho G, Rodrigues S, Gomes MI. Sustainable Solid Waste Collection and Management. Springer International Publishing AG; 2019. 13 p. [4] Oyenuga AA, Bhamidimarri R. Reduce, Reuse and Recycle: Grand Challenges in Construction Recovery Process. International Scholarly and Scientific Research & Innovation 2015;9(4):946-952. [5] Buettner A, editor. Springer Handbook of Odor. Springer International Publishing AG; 2017. Chapter 1, History of Odour and Odorants; p. [1-2]. [6] Mansour E. Wool fibres for the sorption of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) from indoor air [dissertation on the internet]. Gwynedd: Bangor University; 2017. [cited 2020 Jan 25]. Available from: https://research.bangor.ac.uk/portal/en/theses/wool-fibres-for-the-sorption-of-volatile-organiccompounds-vocs-from-indoor-air(a840eadf-bd85-4216-9746-aabbecdfcfdf).html [7] Vikrant K, Kim K, Szulejko JE, Pandey SK, Singh RS, Giri BS, et al. Bio-filters for the Treatment of VOCs and Odours - A Review. Asian Journal of Atmospheric Environment. 2017;11(3):139-152. [cited 2020 Jan 25]. Available from: http://asianjae.org/_common/do.php?a=full&bidx=1457&aidx=18768 doi: 10.5572/ ajae.2017.11.3.139 [8] Ormondroyd GA, Curling SF, Mansour E, Hill CAS. The water vapour sorption characteristics and kinetics of different wool types. The Journal of The Textile Institute. 2017;108(7):1198-1210. [cited 2020 Jan 25]. Available from: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00405000.2016.1224442 doi: 10.1080/00405000.2016.1224442 [9] Bhat G, editor. Structure and Properties of High-Performance Fibres. Woodhead Publishing; 2017. Chapter 14, Wool as a high-performance fibre; p. [367- 408]. [10] McQueen RH, Vaezafshar S. Odour in textiles: A review of evaluation methods, fabric characteristics, and odour control technologies. Textile Research Journal [Internet]. 2019 [cited 2019 November 23] Available from: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/0040517519883952 doi: 10.1177/0040517519883952 [11] Cho KS, Hirai M, Shoda M. Enhanced removal efficiency of malodorous gases in a pilot-scale peat biofilter inoculated with Thiobacillus thioparus DW44. Journal of Fermentation and Bioengineering [Internet]. 1992;73(1):46-50. [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://www.sciencedirect. com/science/article/abs/pii/0922338X9290230R doi: 10.1016/0922-338X(92)90230-R [12] Hwang Y, Matsuo T, Hanaki K, Suzuki N. Removal of odorous compound in wastewater by using activated carbon, ozonation and aerated biofilter. Water Research [Internet]. 1994;28(11):23092319. [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/ pii/0043135494900469 doi: 10.1016/0043-1354(94)90046-9 38 www.textile-leather.com


YILMAZ E et al., Determination of the Odour Adsorption Behaviour of Wool TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 30-39.

[13] Choi ES, Park SJ, Nam SI. Removal of odour emitted from composting facilities using a porous ceramic biofilter. Water Science and Technology. 2001;44(9):301-308. [14] Stefanowski B, Curling S, Ormondroyd G. The sorption of volatile organic compounds (vocs) by modified mdf panels and the effects on mould colonisation and growth. International Panel Products Symposium [Internet] 2015 [cited 2019 November 23]; Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/ publication/282669977_The_sorption_of_volatile_organic_compounds_VOCs_by_modified_MDF_ panels_and_the_effects_on_mould_colonisation_and_growth [15] Stefanowski BK, Curling SF, Ormondroyd GA. Evaluating mould colonisation and growth on MDF panels modified to sequester volatile organic compounds. International Wood Products Journal. 2016;7(4): 188-194. [16] Stefanowski BK, Curling SF, Ormondroyd GA. Assessment of lignocellulosic nut wastes as an absorbent for gaseous formaldehyde. Industrial Crops and Products. 2017;98:25–28. [17] Da Silva CF, Stefanowski B, Maskell D, Ormondroyd GA, Ansell MP, Dengel AC, Ball RJ. Improvement of indoor air quality by MDF panels containing walnut shells. Building and Environment. 2017;123:427-436. [18] United States Patent. US20040213755A1 - Compositions and methods for reducing odor. 2004 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://patents.google.com/patent/US20040213755A1/en [19] United States Patent. US6029286A - Odor removing apparatus for toilets. 1998 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://patents.google.com/patent/US6029286A/en?oq=US6029286A [20] United States Patent. US4125589A - Odor control system. 1976 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://patents.google.com/patent/US4125589A/en?oq=US4125589A [21] United States Patent. US4591497 - Odor-removing and deodorizing composition employing a hydrolysate of keratin material. 1981 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://patents.google.com/patent/ US4591497A/en?oq=US4591497 [22] United States Patent. US5160707 - Methods of and apparatus for removing odors from process airstreams. 1990 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://patents.google.com/patent/ US5160707A/en?oq=US5160707 [23] United States Patent. US7135449 - Composition for removal of odors and contaminants from textiles and method. 2004 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://patents.google.com/patent/ US7135449B2/en?oq=US7135449 [24] United States Patent. US6378224 - Apparatus for removing odor and moisture from footwear and the like. 2000 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://patents.google.com/patent/US6378224B1/ en?oq=US6378224 [25] Engeseth MF. Wool garments for exercise in cold climate. [Internet]. [cited 2019 November 23]; Available from: https://www.ntnu.edu/documents/139799/1279149990/08+TPD4505.Martine.Engeseth. pdf/32cf9e1b-dd56-4566-bd94-651ecaead8fe [26] Le Blan T, Vatinel A. Odour reduction thanks to textile materials. 6th RESET Seminar on New materials and new applications [Internet]. 2018 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://www. interregeurope.eu/fileadmin/user_upload/tx_tevprojects/library/file_1517395964.pdf [27] Curling S F, Loxton C, Ormondroyd GA. A rapid method for investigating the absorption of formaldehyde from air by wool. Journal of Materials Science. 2012;47:3248–3251. [28] Mansour E, Curling S, Stephan A, Ormondroyd GA. Absorption of volatile organic compounds by different wool types. Green Materials. 2016;4(1):1–7. [29] Mansour E, Curling SF, Ormondroyd GA. International Panel Products Symposium [Internet]. 2015 [cited 2019 November 23]. Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282669990_ Absorption_of_formaldehyde_by_different_wool_types

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CARP B, Textiles Sustainability and Communications TLR 3 (1) 2020 40-42.

Textiles Sustainability and Communications Belinda CARP Business Consultant belinda@belinda-carp.com Position paper UDC 677:504 DOI: 10.31881/TLR.2020.PP01 Received 3 March 2020; Published 26 March 2020

INTRODUCTION The Industrial Revolution paved the way for industrialisation, economic growth and innovation, and resulted in the availability of an increased range of goods and services, improved life expectancy, and many other benefits. However, the rapid development has come at a cost which has not yet been settled. ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY The earth’s natural resources are being used at a rate that cannot be sustained by the natural ecosystem and, according to the Chief Scientific Adviser to the UK government in 2009, we are heading for a “perfect storm” where a growing world population will demand yet more resources from an earth which simply cannot sustain demand. It is estimated that, between 2009 and 2030: • global population will have increased by 33%, from 6 bn to 8 bn people; • demand for food will have increased by 50%; • demand for energy will have increased by 30%; and • demand for water will have increased by 30%. Environmental responsibility is a global issue, and the United Nations (UN) has helpfully identified 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to guide companies in industries all over the world. The textile industry – and the fast fashion sector, in particular – is widely believed to be one of the most harmful to the environment. However, there are innovative companies in the industry which have developed technologies, products and services to significantly reduce the industry’s impact on the environment. The textile industry has a long and complex supply chain, but environmental and social challenges are being addressed. Some of the SDGs which are of particular concern to the textile industry include: • Goal 6: Clean Water and Sanitation; • Goal 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth; • Goal 9: Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure; • Goal 12: Responsible Consumption and Production; • Goal 15: Life on Land; and • Goal 17: Partnerships for the Goals.

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CARP B, Textiles Sustainability and Communications TLR 3 (1) 2020 40-42.

Visit any textile trade show around the world, and you will see that the industry is addressing some complex issues, in order to be more environmentally responsible. For example, it is concerned with: • the environmental impact of fibre production processes; • fast fashion, consumer behaviour and over-consumption; • the use of recycling and recyclable materials; • the principles of a circular economy; • end-of-life and landfill or incineration; • biodegradability; and • durability of clothing. But change always takes time and requires careful planning. There are small steps which can be taken immediately by individuals in organisations – and huge strides will be made when the necessary legislation is adopted in a consistent and systematic approach throughout the world.

CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT In the meantime, it is equally important to get consumers engaged. Our “throw away” culture is irresponsible and harmful to the environment, and the industry needs to educate consumers about their options, so that they understand and support (even if it means paying extra for!) the initiatives which the industry is developing. Examples of consumer interests are: • animal welfare – the development of vegan materials, abolition of mulesing in wool production, and issues around the humane production of goose and duck down for insulation products; • celebrity designers – endorsements of environmentally responsible products; • circular economy – reduce, reuse, recycle to minimise waste; • global warming – reducing the carbon footprint of the textile industry to slow down climate change which threaten areas where consumers live; • Greenpeace – high profile campaigner draws attention to environmental issues; • landfill and incineration – what happens to unwanted clothing at end-of-life, the implications of biodegradable materials, and the effects of air pollution on society and human health; • natural fibres vs man-made fibres – lack of understanding among consumers about the environmental impact of different types of fibres, throughout the product lifecycle; • online shopping– does convenience take priority over environmental conscience? • plastics in the ocean – from laundry of clothing made from synthetic fabrics, and the recycling of postconsumer plastic water bottles into polyester fibre; • recycling and upcycling – post-industrial and post-consumer, including the market for 2nd hand and vintage clothing; • rental – growth of the sharing economy; and • traceability – the importance of clear labelling to provide assurance of the safety and sustainability of products and the manufacturing processes used to make them.

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CARP B, Textiles Sustainability and Communications TLR 3 (1) 2020 40-42.

CONSLUSION People are not short of information. We live in an age of “information overload�, and have many different media at our disposal via which we can share and exchange our views with each other. So, clearly, it is not simply a question of conveying information. The urgent challenge for the textile and clothing industry is to really communicate with consumers, to engage their interest, and to encourage them to become champions of sustainability. And there are multiple incentives: 1) to ease pressure on the environment; and 2) to improve brand reputation, customer loyalty and employee retention. When we get textiles sustainability and communications right, everybody wins!

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Instructions for Authors TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 43-46.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR AUTHORS EDITING YOUR MANUSCRIPT Please use our template to edit your article before submitting for review. • Volume of a manuscript should not exceed 10.000 words, without Tables, Figures and Images. • Title of a manuscript should not exceed 15 words. • Full names and surnames of the authors, as well as full names of the author’s affiliation – university, institute, company, department, town and country should be clearly given. Corresponding author should be indicated, and their e-mail address provided. • Abstract of a manuscript should be no longer than 250 words. • Keywords should contain 3-7 items. • SI units should be used throughout. • Abbreviations should be used according to IUPAC and ISO standards and defined when first used. • Footnotes should be avoided. When their use is absolutely necessary, they should be numbered consecutively using Arabic numerals and appended at the end of the manuscript. • References should be cited using Arabic numbers in square brackets, according to the Vancouver referencing style. Please use our Quick Reference Guide (or look at the next page) • Figures and illustrations with a title and legend should be numbered consecutively (with Arabic numerals) and must be referred in the text. Images should be numbered as Figures. Additionally, Figures should be supplied as a separate file saved as jpg or tif at 300 dpi minimum. Type size in the description of axes should be proportional to the size of the Figure. • Tables with a title and optional legend should be numbered consecutively and must be referred in the text. • Acknowledgements may be included and should be placed after Conclusions and before References.

CATEGORIZATION OF ARTICLES Distinguishing scientific from professional articles The importance of usefulness of a article is not determined by whether it is scientific or professional. The difference between a scientific and a professional work is the originality of the results of research, debate and conclusions obtained by verified scientific methods. A professional paper can be more important for spreading knowledge and profession and economically more useful in application, but this does not mean it is a new contribution to the increase of scientific knowledge. The received manuscripts are categorized into: Original scientific papers means it is the first publication of original research. It must be presented so that the research can be repeated giving results with equal precision within the limits of the trial error, which means that the correctness of analyses and conclusions can be checked. Scientific review is a complete review of a issue or a field of research based on already published work but contains original analyses synthesis or suggestions for further research. It has a more comprehensive introduction than the original scientific paper. Preliminary communication includes new scientific results demanding urgent publication while the research is underway. This kind of article does not have to ensure the repetition and checking the presented results. It is published only with the author’s obligation to publish the original scientific paper when the research is completed.

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Instructions for Authors TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 43-46.

Conference paper is the work presented at a professional conference organized on local, regional or state level. It will be published if it has not been published in full in Proceedings, as a report, a study etc. Professional paper deals with the issues in the profession. It gives professional instructions and suggestions for how to solve the issue (technique, technology, methodology). Professional review is a complete review of a professional issue (technique, technology, methodology) based on already published work indicating the best ways for solving the issue. The papers that are not categorized include: Presentation and communication from practical experience deals with solving the problem of particular laboratory, institution or industry and serve to inform interested parties of the solution applied. Position paper is an essay that presents an arguable opinion about an issue. Commentary is paper connected with actual news and condition in science and textile/clothing industry.

QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE Vancouver referencing style consists of: • citations to someone else’s work in the text, indicated by the use of a number, • a sequentially numbered reference list at the end of the document providing full details of the corresponding in-text reference. In-text citations • Insert an in-text citation: o when your work has been influenced by someone else’s work, for example: ▪ when you directly quote someone else’s work ▪ when you paraphrase someone else’s work • General rules of in-text citation: o A number is allocated to a source in the order in which it is cited in the text. If the source is referred to again, the same number is used o Use Arabic numerals in square brackets [1], [2], [3], … o Superscripts can also be used rather than brackets o Reference numbers should be inserted to the left or inside of colons and semi-colons o Reference numbers are placed outside or after full stops and commas Multiple works by the same author: Each individual work by the same author, even if it is published in the same year, has its own reference number. Citing secondary sources: A secondary source, or indirect citation, occurs when the ideas on one author are published in another author’s work, and you have not accessed or read the original piece of work. Cite the author of the work you have read and also include this source in your reference list.

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Instructions for Authors TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 43-46.

In-text citation examples The in-text citation is placed immediately after the text which refers to the source being cited: ...and are generally utilized as industrial textile composites.[1] Including page numbers with in-text citations: Page numbers are not usually included with the citation number. However should you wish to specify the page number of the source the page/s should be included in the following format: …and are generally utilized as industrial textile composites.[1 p23] Hearle [1 p16-18] has argued that... Citing more than one reference at a time: The preferred method is to list each reference number separated by a comma, or by a dash for a sequence of consecutive numbers. There should be no spaces between commas or dashes For example: [1,5,6-8] Reference List • References are listed in numerical order, and in the same order in which they are cited in text. The reference list appears at the end of the paper • Begin your reference list on a new page and title it References • The reference list should include all and only those references you have cited in the text • Use Arabic numerals [1], [2], [3], … • Full journal titles are prefered • Check the reference details against the actual source - you are indicating that you have read a source when you cite it Scholarly journal articles • Enter author’s surname followed by no more than 2 initials (full stop) • If more than 1 author: give all authors’ names and separate each by a comma and a space • For articles with 1 to 6 authors, list all authors. For articles with more than 6 authors, list the first 6 authors then add ‘et al.’ • Only the first word of the article title and words that normally begin with a capital letter are capitalized. • Use Full journal titles • Follow the date with a semi-colon; • Abbreviate months to their first 3 letters (no full stop) • Give the volume number (no space) followed by issue number in brackets • If the journal has continuous page numbering through its volumes, omit month/issue number. • Page numbers, eg: 123-129. Digital Object Identification (DOI) and URLs The digital object identifier (DOI) should be provided in the reference where it is available. Use the form as it appears in your source. Print journal article – Ferri L de, Lorenzi A, Carcano E, Draghi L. Silk fabrics modification by sol-gel method. Textile Research Journal. 2018 Jan;88(1):99-107. ▪ Author AA, Author BB, Author CC, Author DD. Title of article. Title of journal. Date of publication YYYY Mon DD;volume number(issue number):page numbers.

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Instructions for Authors TEXT LEATH REV 3 (1) 2020 43-46.

Electronic journal article – Niculescu O, Deselnicu DC, Georgescu M, Nituica M. Finishing product for improving antifugal properties of leather. Leather and Footwear Journal [Internet]. 2017 [cited 2017 Apr 22];17(1):31-38. Available from: http://revistapielarieincaltaminte.ro/revistapielarieincaltaminteresurse/en/ fisiere/full/vol17 -nr1/article4_vol17_issue1.pdf ▪ Author AA, Author BB. Title of article. Title of Journal [Internet]. Date of publication YYYY MM [cited YYYY Mon DD];volume number(issue number):page numbers. Available from: URL Book – Hu J. Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Ltd; 2004. 61 p. ▪ Author AA. Title of book. # edition [if not first]. Place of Publication: Publisher; Year of publication. Pagination. Edited book - Sun G, editor. Antimicrobial Textiles. Duxford: Woodhead Publishing is an imprint of Elsevier; 2016. 99 p. ▪ Editor AA, Editor BB, editors. Title of book. # edition[if not first]. Place of Publication: Publisher; Year. Pagination. Chapter in a book - Luximon A, editor. Handbook of Footwear Design and Manufacture. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited; 2013. Chapter 5, Foot problems and their implications for footwear design; p. [90-114]. ▪ Author AA, Author BB. Title of book. # edition. Place of Publication: Publisher; Year of publication. Chapter number, Chapter title; p. [page numbers of chapter]. Electronic book – Strasser J. Bangladesh’s Leather Industry: Local Production Networks in the Global Economy [Internet]. s.l.: Springer International Publishing; 2015 [cited 2017 Feb 07]. 96 p. Available from: https://link. springer.com/book/10.1007%2F978-3-319-22548-7 ▪ Author AA. Title of web page [Internet]. Place of Publication: Sponsor of Website/Publisher; Year published [cited YYYY Mon DD]. Number of pages. Available from: URL DOI: (if available) Conference paper – Ferreira NG, Nobrega LCO, Held MSB. The need of Fashion Accessories. In: Mijović B. editor. Innovative textile for high future demands. Proceedings 12th World Textile Conference AUTEX; 13-15 June 2012; Zadar, Croatia. Zagreb: Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb; 2012. p. 1253-1257. ▪ Author AA. Title of paper. In: Editor AA, editor. Title of book. Proceedings of the Title of the Conference; Date of conference; Place of Conference. Place of publication: Publisher’s name; Year of Publication. p. page numbers. Thesis/dissertation – Sujeevini J. Studies on the hydro-thermal and viscoelastic properties of leather [dissertation]. Leicester: University of Leicester; 2004. 144 p. ▪ Author AA. Title of thesis [dissertation]. Place of publication: Publisher; Year. Number of pages Electronic thesis/dissertation – Covington AD. Studies in leather science [dissertation on the internet]. Northampton: University of Northampton; 2010. [cited 2017 Jan 09]. Available from: http://ethos.bl.uk/ OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.579666 ▪ Author AA. Title of thesis [dissertation on the Internet]. Place of publication: Publisher; Year. [cited YYYY abb. month DD]. Available from: URL This quick reference guide is based on Citing Medicine: The NLM Style Guide for Authors, Editors, and Publishers (2nd edition). Please consult this source directly for additional information or examples.

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