Travel Newport

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Hiking Fishing Charters Camping Nye Beach Rogue Brewery Newport’s Historic Bayfront Oregon Coast Aquarium and so much more!

TravelNewportOregon.com



Location Location Location Portland 99W

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Lincoln City

Salem

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Newport

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art of being in the right place at the right time. At

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99W

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Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Take a Hike!

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Pedal Pushing Paradise

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Sleep Under the Stars

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Fishing Charters

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Gentle Giants

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Agate Beach Golf Course

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Forever Funky

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Newport’s Historic Bayfront

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Lighthouses

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Oregon Coast Aquarium

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Rogue Brewery

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Oregon Coast Council for the Arts

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Bier One

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Hatfield Marine Science Center

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U.S. Coast Guard

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Port of Newport

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N.O.A.A.

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Publisher James Rand Advertising Contacts Barbara Moore Teresa Barnes John Anderson Krisstina Borton Editor Steve Card Copy Editor Monique Cohen Contributors Nancy Steinberg Jo Wienert Larry Coonrod Terry Dillman Philip Swett Fran Mathews Port of Newport Catherine Rickbone O.C.C.A. DiscoverNewport.com Newport Chamber of Commerce Cover Photo Jo Wienert | www.jofotos.com Design | eongdi.com A Publication of the

Travel Newport is published twice a year by the News-Times. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. The News-Times made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.

Contact Us 831 NE Avery St. Newport, OR 97365 541-265-8571 newportnewstimes.com Photos by: Jo Wienert

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24 Hour Kiosk

555 SW Coast Hwy Newport

Scan for local events

(541) 265-8801

NewportChamber.org SeafoodandWine.com


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Take a Hike! Pedal Pushing Paradise Sleep Under the Stars Fishing Charters Gentle Giants Agate Beach Golf Course

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Take a Hike!

Lace Up Your Boots and Get onto the Beaten Path by Nancy Steinberg

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ewport is a beautiful place to hike, especially for families – the terrain is varied and generally not too challenging, the views are spectacular, and a latte or ice cream cone are never very far away. Just to the north and south of the city (see listings) are some more challenging, longer hikes that would appeal to more serious trekkers. Here are some short hikes within city limits.

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area The federal Bureau of Land Management operates the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area, a spit of land at the north end of town that juts out dramatically into the Pacific, punctuated at the end by the stately and beautiful Yaquina Head Lighthouse. There are a number of short walks and hikes that can be strung together for a complete tour of the headland. Note that there is a $7 admission fee for cars. A recent hike up Communications Hill at Yaquina Head (so-called because the Coast Guard maintains communications equipment at the top of the hill) afforded some of the best views in Newport, despite the raw and rainy day I chose for the hike.

The trail is less than a mile long, moderately steep in places on the way up, and traverses a typical shore pine and Sitka spruce forest. On this particular morning, the only sounds I heard were the crunching of gravel under my feet and the whoosh of the surf below. My favorite spot on the hike is not necessarily the top, although the view from there of scalloped waves, often with intrepid surfers sprinkled about, is amazing. Even better is the moment just after making the major switchback in the trail, where there are expansive ocean vistas to both sides of the trail. Interpretive signage along the trail lists the types of native vegetation to be seen: elderberry, red alder, bleeding heart, and more. I kept a close eye out for grey whales. While I didn’t see any on this hike, I have seen whales while hiking here on many other occasions. Other wildlife sightings could include songbirds, chipmunks, bald eagles, and, seasonally, gorgeous formations of pelicans flying low over the water. Hikers can use the series of paved and wellmaintained pedestrian paths to connect to the other short hikes and walks at Yaquina Head. Salal Hill, further out the headland, is a shorter but steeper trail, which also affords

outstanding views from the peak. Spring wildflowers can be spectacular here. While descending stairs doesn’t usually count as taking a hike, the staircases down to Cobble Beach are a bit steep, with a great beach as the payoff at the bottom (and of course, what goes down must somehow come back up, so there is a workout involved). Covered in uniformly smooth, round black stones of volcanic origin, one of the most remarkable things about this beach is its sound: listen for the hallmark clatter of the cobbles being tossed and jumbled each time a wave comes ashore. The large offshore rock islands often provide haul-out areas for harbor seals. If you happen to come across a baby seal on the beach here, or anywhere else, please leave it alone and give it a wide berth – its mother is just offshore foraging for food and she will be too shy to return to her baby if you hang around.

Mike Miller Park and Connected Trails Mike Miller Park in South Beach is a gorgeous one-mile loop trail that traverses a range of habitats, from an old spruce/fir forest of towering trees to freshwater wetlands. In recent years the Mike Miller loop has been linked to new trails near the Newport campus of Oregon Coast Community College; the trail system can be accessed either from the playground at the Wilder community abutting the college campus or from the Mike Miller trailhead (see sidebar for directions). Having recently become enamored of trail running, I like to take these trails at top speed, but it’s equally fun to take your time. If you park at the Mike Miller trailhead off of Rte. 101, you can pick up an interpretive brochure and follow the numbered markers along the trail to learn more about this iconic Pacific Northwest ecosystem. In spring, wild rhododendrons tower overhead and salmonberry and other typical native vegetation in every shade of green crowds the view. In most years ospreys nest in snags in the park’s 40 acres, and other bird life is abundant as well. An observation deck at the park’s wetland area brings hikers closer to the newts, turtles, and ducks that are often found in the water. Terrain is mostly dirt (watch for stumps and roots that try to trip you!) with some gravel and a few small bridges crossing over creeks or particularly wet areas.

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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When You Go: Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area

750 NW Lighthouse Drive (follow signs off of Rte. 101 north of town) 541-574-3100 Park grounds open 8 am to 5 pm daily $7 fee for non-commercial vehicles; free to walk or bike in www.blm.gov/or/resources/ recreation/yaquina/index.php

Mike Miller Park

Left on SE 50th Street south of the Yaquina Bay Bridge - No fee http://www.co.lincoln.or.us/ lcparks/mike_miller.html

South Beach State Park

South of the Yaquina Bay Bridge on west side of Rte. 101 541-867-4715 - No fee for day use http://www.oregonstateparks.org/ index.cfm?do=parkPage.dsp_ parkPage&parkId=149

Beaver Creek State Natural Area

Turn east onto Beaver Creek Road 7.4 miles south of Yaquina Bay Bridge; Visitor Center is on the right in a little more than a mile 541-563-6413 - No fee http://www.oregonstateparks.org/ index.cfm?do=parkPage.dsp_ parkPage&parkId=191 About half-way around the loop you will come to signs indicating side trails to the community college and the Emery Trail, named after the generous landowner who has donated the use of some of his property for the extensions of these trails. The Emery Trail is an out-and-back spur that runs by more wetland area and includes a couple of strenuous but short hills. The community college trail links up to the Wilder housing development near the campus, emerging at a lovely playground maintained jointly by Wilder and the City of Newport. The City’s long-term plans are to extend these trails even further through South Beach, eventually hooking into a trail planned to run all the way from Corvallis to the coast.

South Beach State Park South Beach State Park maintains a range of trails, from a flat, paved bike trail perfect for bikes, scooters, strollers, and rollerblades, to wooded trails that can provide quite a workout. Skirting the edge of the park’s campground is the Cooper Ridge Nature Trail, a 1.75-mile loop through forest and meadow habitats. Terrain is dirt and sand, and there are a few moderately challenging hills. The South Jetty Trail, a paved ADA-

accessible path, is a one-mile link between the park and the South Jetty recreation area (see the section in this magazine on biking for more information about this trail). The Old Jetty Trail is another wooded alternative, which basically parallels the paved trail but goes through the shore pine forest and dune habitats of the park. Wildlife is abundant in South Beach, especially in the early morning hours – keep your eyes open for deer, birds, and even the occasional coyote.

Beaver Creek State Natural Area Eight miles south of Newport is the relatively new Beaver Creek State Natural Area, which is laced with gorgeous upland meadow trails. Trails start from the Visitor Center, or from a less well-marked parking area on South Beaver Creek Road (ask at the Visitor Center for directions). Because much of the park is in low-lying wetlands, trail access can be limited, or covered in mud and water, during some months so the southern access point allows for a less mucky start to your hike. Hikers will almost surely see evidence of the elk herds that frequent the park, and perhaps signs of other wildlife – bears, raptors, deer, river otters – as well. Friends who live in the neighborhood have even seen cougar and bobcat.

More Hikes to the North & South For hikers interested in longer and more difficult hikes, just north and south of Newport are some perfect options.

To the north: Cascade Head, Lincoln City

Trailhead on Three Rocks Road off of Rte. 101 (Park at boat ramp) Note: all trails open July 16-December 31; some are otherwise closed. - No fee http://web.oregon.com/hiking/ cascade_head.cfm

To the South: Cape Perpetua National Scenic Area, Yachats

Visitor Center: 2400 Hwy 101, Yachats 541-547-3289 $5 per vehicle or Northwest Forest Pass http://www.fs.usda.gov/ recarea/siuslaw/recreation/ recarea/?recid=42265

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Pedal Pushing Paradise Biking Around Newport by Nancy Steinberg

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great way to get around Newport, feel the coastal breeze on your face, and get a great workout all at once is to bike. Whether you’ve got a sleek, speedy road bike, a tricked-out high-tech mountain bike, or a touring bike with a tinkly bell and a wicker basket on the handlebars, there’s a ride for you in and around town. Bike rides in the Newport area include road rides with and without killer hills, beautiful paved bike paths, and gnarly trails that include everything from gravel road to single track. A lovely, flat, family-friendly ride is found at South Beach State Park, where a one-mile paved trail runs from the day use area parking lot to the South Jetty parking area. The trail is protected from the summer wind, but the ocean is always nearby: multiple beach access points and an interpretive boardwalk along the trail

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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can make for great side trips. Songbirds and the sound of crashing waves just on the other side of the dunes provide a stellar soundtrack. This ride can hook up to the paved trails along the south side of Yaquina Bay all the way to the NOAA facility, and even out to Idaho Point on flat, wide roads along the bay and King Slough (see the map of the South Beach Ride). The Lighthouse to Lighthouse ride (see map) takes road riders along a significant stretch of oceanfront, punctuated at either end by a spectacular lighthouse. This moderately challenging ride runs the length of the Nye Beach neighborhood, offering a good workout along with its gorgeous views. Note that along some of the route the road is marked with reflective “sharrows,” which remind drivers to share these popular biking roads with cyclists. A short stretch of Highway 101 is necessary on this ride. Keep in mind that the Lighthouse Drive piece of the ride, which extends from Highway 101 to the Yaquina Head Lighthouse, is only

accessible during the operating hours of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area. If you want to get out into the woods on mountain bike trails, there are a number of options. A gravel and dirt road extends from Big Creek Park (see City Parks Loop Ride map) along the shore of Newport’s drinking water reservoir, an out-and-back ride of a little less than 4 miles (please respect private property, which begins at the yellow gate at the end of the road). You can add about 1.5 miles on to this ride by riding on dirt, gravel, and boardwalks on the Ocean to Bay trail from Big Creek Park to Agate Beach and back. More serious mountain bikers can apply for a free permit to ride a web of trails accessible behind Oregon Coast Community College in South Beach (south of the bridge on the east side of 101 – watch for signs). These trails are the site of the annual Coast Hills Classic mountain bike race that takes place in muddy May.


For a permit, contact Yaquina Bay Property Management at 541-265-3537. You will need to send them a copy of your photo ID, current address, phone number, and a list of activities you intend to undertake while on the trails (e-mail dani@yaquinabayproperties.com). It can take up to two weeks to get the permit so plan ahead! You can also get permits at the Wilder Development’s office on-site at the development, which is along the road leading to the community college. Call 541-867-7578 for more information. My personal favorite local bike ride is along the Bay Road (see the map of the City to City Ride) between the Newport’s Bayfront and the city of Toledo. Wide, flat, and lowtraffic for most of the ride, this trek takes riders from the scent of salt-water taffy and the bustle of the Bayfront’s restaurants and shops, through the quiet stillness of Yaquina Bay’s backwaters, to the industrial waterfront of Toledo. Riders can start from Yaquina Bay State Park where there is free parking, and ride downhill under the Yaquina Bay Bridge and along the entire commercial stretch of the Bayfront to begin the ride; because I live in town I ride from my house and often hook up with the Bay Road by the Embarcadero Resort. I’ve done this ride many times and it’s never the same twice, depending on the weather, the time of day, and the whims of nature. After leaving the Bayfront behind, one of the first sites on the ride is the Port of Newport’s International Terminal. It’s been fascinating to watch the construction and renovation

here over the past year. Riding east, traffic becomes lighter, unless you count the bustling bird life of the bay: great blue herons by the dozens stalk prey in the shallows while shore birds peck nervously at the mud. An observant rider will note the shards of clam shells along some stretches of road where gulls have dropped clams onto the pavement to smash them open to get to the meat. Turkey vultures, ospreys, bald eagles, and all manner of aquatic birds are familiar sites along the ride as well. At MP 7 is Oregon Oyster Farms, where succulent oysters are now raised on long ropes dangling from docks in the bay (and where you can purchase oysters directly, but maybe it’s better to wait until you’re in your car rather than on your bike). An interpretive sign along this stretch explains that this area is the site of the former early settlement of Oysterville. Just after the oyster farm, if you look up to the hillside to your left, you’ll see a peculiar,

modern-day hobbit house set into the hillside. This is Dragonfly Hill, an earth-bermed home built of reinforced concrete. For more information about the fascinating process of building this special house, see dragonflyhill. org. Around MP 9 there is a spot to pull over, rehydrate, and survey the sparkling bay. Wildflowers are abundant in the spring along this part of the road, and even when the fog has rolled onto the shore in the summer, by this point the ride is often sunny. Riders come to the outskirts of Toledo around MP 10, where there are neat houses, many with gorgeous flower gardens. At MP 11 The Hill begins. It’s a long, slow, agonizing climb that rises above the bustling Port of Toledo and Georgia Pacific mill. If you can cast some glances across the landscape as you climb, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the humming port. Once in Toledo, take a right on Rte. 20 and another right onto NW A Street, which deadends at a small waterfront park, a great place to recharge before heading back. One note about this ride: it’s best to start it as early in the day as you can, not only because the morning light is beautiful, but also because when the wind picks up this can be a windy ride in both directions. The ride is about 27 miles round-trip if you start at Yaquina Bay State Park. Whether you ride this route or just use your bike to tool around town, you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views and a hearty workout – go ahead, have that giant pile of fish and chips for dinner – you’ve earned it! Pedal Pushing continued on page 12

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Pedal Pushing continued from page 11

CITY PARKS LOOP: 7 mi. RT. Easy to moderately challenging. Pack a picnic and enjoy time in any one of the nine City parks on this loop.From bird watching to skateboarding or whale watching to ball games, each park provides a special place for those who pass through.

LIGHTHOUSE TO LIGHTHOUSE:

10 mi. RT. Follow the Oregon Coast Bike Route for a moderately challenging ride between Yaquina Bay Lighthouse (1871) and Yaquina Head Lighthouse (1872). This route takes the rider through the Nye Beach Historic District, offers stunning ocean views, and has enough elevation change to provide a good workout.

Biking Resources in Newport The Newport biking culture has been growing in the past few years, thanks largely to the efforts of Elliott and Daniella Crowder, the owners of Bike Newport, Newport’s excellent bike shop. The shop has become more than a place to buy inner tubes and helmets – it has become the center of a growing and very friendly biking community. Bike Newport co-sponsors lots of events, including the Coast Hills Classic mountain bike race in May and the Yaquina Lighthouse Century Rides in August, and holds a range of classes, including Yoga for Cyclists, Kickboxing, and Bike Repair. Check in with the crew there for information about hill time trials, group rides, and kids’ rides as well. Bike Newport is at 150 NW 6th Street in Newport, 541-265-9917, and bikenewport.com. The shop is open M-F 10-6, Sat 10-5, and summer Sundays 12-5. The Yaquina Wheels Bicycle Club also sponsors group rides and other events. Check out their web site at www.yaquinawheels.org/, particularly for info on the Yaquina Lighthouse Century Rides.

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CITY TO CITY:

27 mi. RT. Moderately challenging, rolling terrain with a steep hill in either direction. This is a beautiful ride along the Yaquina Bay and River and provides an excellent opportunity to see plenty of boats as well as shorebirds, waterfowl, wading birds, eagles, and ospreys. Wide shoulders and smooth pavement for most of the route.

SOUTH BEACH RIDE:

9 mi. RT. Easy ride, mostly flat. This fun ride takes you through sand dunes to the South Beach Jetty, then winds its way through the South Beach Marina, along the estuary, and out to Idaho Point on King Slough. Great views and good bird watching.

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Premium oysters since 1907. Visit our Retail Store, located six miles up the Yaquina Bay Road from Newport, Oregon, for the freshest, year round selection of oysters.

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Sleep Under the Stars

(or Curl Up Under Canvas or Rest in an RV): Camping in Newport by Nancy Steinberg

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amping in Newport allows visitors to get up close and personal with the beaches and forests of the coasts. How better to end a day at the beach than roasting marshmallows over a roaring campfire? In my family we prefer tent camping, but those interested in RV camping or staying in a yurt (a small, round, canvas-sided cabin with a wooden floor) can also find accommodations in the campgrounds of Newport. Two gorgeous campgrounds close to all that Newport has to offer yet offering peaceful havens from “the big city” are Beverly Beach State Park and South Beach State Park. While the two parks have similar amenities, they are situated in contrasting environments, so you just might have to check out both while you’re in town. One piece of advice: these campgrounds do tend to fill up, especially on summer weekends. Make your plans early!

Beverly Beach: Gnarly Trees and Ancient Fossils Beverly Beach State Park just north of Newport includes an expansive campground (53 full-hookup sites, 75 electrical sites with water, 128 tent sites, and 21 yurts) in a coastal forest just east of a gorgeous beach. As a tent

Photos by: Jo Wienert

camper, I’m partial to the tent sites on the outside of loops B and D which are right along Spencer Creek. Gnarled Sitka spruce, some of them so-called “octopus trees,” are found throughout the campground and cast eerie shadows as the sun sets. Sites are wooded and flat, and include paved parking, fire rings, and picnic tables. The Spencer Creek Nature Trail runs through the woods along some of the camping loops, and the Spencer Creek Welcome Center serves as a Visitor Center for the park – check out the enormous grey whale skull on display. An open-air amphitheater hosts summer ranger talks and other events – check the schedule at the campground for details when you visit. The beach at Beverly Beach is really special. Spencer Creek finds its way to the ocean here, and makes for a great spot for rock hounds to search for treasures. Beverly Beach is also well-known for fossils, which can be found strewn on the beach and embedded in rocks and the cliffs that line the shore (it’s OK to collect fossils from the beach for your personal collection, but Oregon law prohibits prying them from the cliff faces). South Beach: Off the Dirt and Into a Yurt At both Beverly Beach and South Beach, you can reserve yurts; we particularly like them at

Camping continued on page 16 15


Camping continued from page 15

South Beach where the camp sites are in the back dune ecosystem, so they are less wooded and shaded than in other campgrounds. A few yurts are even pet-friendly (two of the 27 at South Beach), but they tend to be reserved even earlier than the regular yurts, so plan ahead. The South Beach yurts are incredibly comfortable, with sleeping space for five (on bunk beds and a fold-down couch – bring your own blankets/sleeping bags/pillows). They include a small table and chairs inside, a lockable door, and the typical fire ring and picnic table amenities of all campsites at the park. It’s like a very small cabin, which can provide protection if you happen to be camping on a rainy day and would like to play cards until the shower passes (it will pass!). South Beach State Park is chock-full of things to do. The beach itself is wide, uncrowded, and easily accessible from the campground. It’s a great spot for beginning surfers and boogie boarders, with plenty of room to spread out and learn. Trails spider-web throughout the park, both paved for bikes and roller blades and unpaved for hiking and trail-running. Birding can be spectacular on these trails: I’ve seen everything from goldfinches to winter wrens to nighthawks to cedar waxwings in the area. Horses are allowed on the beach here; the equestrian unloading area is at the South Jetty access point under the south end of the bridge. You can sign up for guided kayak tours through the park which tour Ona Beach State Park and Beaver Creek to the south. The playground at the campground provides loads of fun for younger campers in between roasting-hot-dog-time and fireside-storytime. One last special note about South Beach: if you listen carefully and are very lucky, you might hear coyotes yipping at dawn or dusk here, as friends of mine did recently when walking in the early morning in the park. Close to town but on the edge of wilderness!

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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When You Go: Reservations at both Beverly Beach State Park and South Beach State Park can be made up to nine months ahead through reserveamerica.com or their mobile app. You can even choose the precise camp site you’d like to reserve by browsing their interactive maps of each campground. You can also reserve by calling 800-452-5687.

RV Sites in Newport Agate Beach Trailer and RV Park 6138 N Coast Highway 541-265-7670 Bridgeview RV Park 144-1 SW 26th 541-867-3742 Harbor Village RV Park 923 SE Bay Blvd 541-265-5088 Pacific Shores Motorcoach Resort 6225 N Coast Hwy 541-265-3750 Port of Newport (two RV Parks) 2301 SE OSU Dr. 541-867-3321 Sawyer’s Landing Marina & RV Park 4098 Yaquina Bay Rd. 541-265-3907 Whaler’s Rest – Leisuretime Resorts of America 50 SE 123rd St. 541-867-3100


Pack Light, but Don’t Forget … OK, you’re not likely to forget the tent itself, but if you’re new at this sleeping on the ground thing, here are a few items that might not make it into the camping bag that you will find you need: First aid kit: Safety first! Just when you think you won’t need it, you most certainly will. Flashlights: Yes, you will make the biggest roaring camp fire the world has ever seen. But that won’t help you navigate to the bathrooms at 4 am. Cutlery: You can eat hot dogs right off of

the roasting stick. But what will you stir your martini with? Dish soap/sponge: Just because you’re camping out doesn’t mean you don’t need to do the dishes. But do keep waste water in designated drains/areas to avoid attracting undesirable critters. Bungee cords: You won’t believe how handy they are for all sorts of tasks. Bring a selection. Plastic bags: Trash bags, wet clothing bags, beach treasure bags, dog waste bags … the possibilities are endless.

Random towels: Same deal – you can sit on them, dry with them, wipe off wet picnic tables with them. Five-gallon water jug: Trips to the campground water source can get tedious so find a way to keep a whole bunch of water at your camp site at once. Tarp or groundcloth for under your tent: You’ll need it if the ground is wet or it rains. Better to just tuck this in with your tent so you don’t forget it. Go. Do it. Now. You can thank me later.

Photo by: Jo Wienert

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Fishing Charters A Reel Adventure in Newport by Nancy Steinberg

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f you’re a real DIY kind of person, you’d rather catch your own fish than buy it at the market or order it in a restaurant. No boat? No problem. It’s easy to reserve yourself a spot on one of Newport’s many charter boats, and chase after delicious quarry from rockfish to salmon to tuna. While charter fishing trips go out year-round, summer weather is usually a bit more calm and comfortable for heading out to sea. Depending on the target species, trips can range from three hours for bay crabbing trips to more than 24 hours for offshore tuna in mid-summer and fall. No experience is required; in fact, beginners are sometimes the captain’s favorite clients. Dell Wilkison, a commercial and charter boat captain for more than 36 years whose boat can be chartered through Newport Tradewinds, explains, “You can’t beat women, children, and newbies – they don’t have any bad habits to break!” Captain Dell and lots of others are ready and waiting to take you fishing. Here are some basics to keep in mind. There are seasons and limited windows to fish for some species, so not every fish is available for the taking all the time. For all of the details on the types and lengths of trips available at a given time, be sure to call the charter company. Bottomfishing trips, which focus on rockfish and lingcod, generally leave the dock year-round. Most outfits run five-hour and tenhour bottomfish trips, depending on the time of year and how far offshore you’re interested in venturing. The five-hour bottomfishing trips in particular are extremely familyfriendly. In season, you can often find 8- or 10-hour combination trips that will take you fishing for both bottomfish and salmon. One-day licenses that will cover you for the trip are generally available from the charter companies; boats will inform you of limits on various species.

Photo by: Jo Wienert

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Salmon is the Pacific Northwest’s iconic fish, and by many accounts they are bouncing back from some tough years. Summer salmon trips target either coho (mid-June to mid-August) or Chinook (June – October). You will need licenses and tags for salmon fishing, but both are available from the charter companies (usually annual licenses are not available for purchase, though). Halibut “openers,” short windows of time during which anglers are allowed to fish for these giant flatfish, are scattered throughout the year, and vary depending on assessments of how many fish there are. They are fished until a set total quota is reached, so later halibut dates might not be fished at all. Remaining proposed spring halibut opener dates are July 4, 5, 6, 18, 19, and 20 (if spring quota remains), and summer halibut dates are August 2, 3, 16, 17, 30, and 31. There are more dates planned (every other weekend until October 26), but only if the quota has not been reached, which is considered unlikely. Albacore tuna usually show up in June or July and stick around close enough to shore to catch until mid-fall. These gorgeous and delicious fighting fish are caught with either rod and reel or a handline. Albacore is a delicacy, whether barbecued, canned, or eaten raw, sushi-style. Newport Tradewinds runs a marathon tuna trip: 33 hours at sea to cover multiple bouts of fishing. Captain Dell says, “If we’re out far enough at night we can put lights out for squid on these trips too.” Sushi and calamari in one trip -- sounds like heaven to me. Finally, if it’s crab you’re after, you can catch them, too, either on a dedicated bay crabbing trip (for example, Captain’s Reel offers a three-hour crabbing trip) or by adding on ocean crabbing with most of the other types of trips mentioned here, for an extra fee. An Oregon shellfish license is required for crabbing (available from the charter companies), and again, note there are fishery restrictions that the boats will enforce onboard. Weather can be stunningly variable at sea. Even the rare warm summer day at the beach can translate into cool temperatures offshore, so dress in layers and in appropriate footwear. Coffee is usually part of most charter deals, but bring your own food and drink. Most charters offer fish cleaning and crab cooking services back at the dock (for a fee). For prices and more specifics, get in touch with the charter companies directly – they’re happy to help find a trip that’s right for you. Always remember, while Newport-based charter boats are usually highly successful, it’s called “fishing,” not “catching.” Just being out on the ocean can be treat enough. Even Captain Dell, with his decades of experience on the water, marvels, “I’ll see new stuff every time I go out, especially on the offshore trips. Forty miles or more offshore, and the critters there are just not the same as the ones we see close to shore.” Gray whales, Japanese tsunami debris or glass fishing floats, bizarre jellyfish, sharks – he’s seen it all, and he can’t wait to share it with visitors.

All Aboard!

Charter Companies in Newport Newport Tradewinds

653 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-2101 http://www.newporttradewinds.com/

Captains Reel Deep Sea Fishing 343 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-7441 http://www.captainsreel.com/

Yaquina Bay Charters

1000 SE Bay Blvd. (near the Embarcadero Resort) 541-265-6800 yaquinabaycharters.com

Newport Marine Store & Charters

2128 SE Marine Science Drive, South Beach 541-867-4470 www.nmscharters.com

Photo by: Jo Wienert

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What to do with the Catch of the Day Fishing Charters in Newport

T

o make the best of your hard-won catch, here are some recipes for preparing locally-caught seafood.

Baked Albacore Hoisin From the Oregon Albacore Commission 1 1/3 pounds skinless Pacific albacore, cut into 1-inch thick loin cuts or steaks 2 Tb hoisin sauce 1 Tb unseasoned rice wine vinegar 1 tsp minced garlic ½ tsp grated gingerroot 1 Tb olive oil 1 ½ Tb sherry 1 tsp sesame seeds Rinse albacore with cold water; pat dry with paper towel. Combine remaining ingredients except sesame seeds. Marinate albacore in mixture for 30 minutes, turning once. Transfer albacore to greased shallow baking dish. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake at 450°F for 8-10 minutes. Do not overcook! Albacore should be pink in center when removed from heat. Makes 4 servings. Pan-sautéed Rockfish with Capers From Food.com 24 ounces rockfish fillets ½ tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp black pepper ¼ tsp olive oil 1/3 cup dry vermouth (or white wine) 2 tsp grated lemon rind 2 tsp fresh lemon juice 1 Tb capers ¼ tsp dried herbs (like herbes de Provence) 1 Tb butter, chilled and cut into pieces 2 Tb fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped Heat a non-stick skillet over medium high heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Season the fish on both sides with the salt and pepper. Add the fish to the pan, and cook about 2 -3 minutes on each side or until the fish flakes easily. Remove the fish to a warm plate. Add vermouth, lemon rind, lemon juice, capers and herbs to the pan. Cook for 30 seconds. Add the butter to the pan, whisking to incorporate into the sauce. Pour the sauce over the fish, top with the parsley. Makes 4 servings. Crab Bisque From the Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission 2 Tb butter 1 Tb minced shallots 2 Tb flour 2 c chicken broth ¼ c tomato paste 2 c heavy whipping cream 1 pound Dungeness crab meat 2 Tb sour cream 1 Tb chopped fresh parsley In a stock pot, over medium heat, sauté the shallots in butter for 2-3 minutes, or until soft. Remove from heat and stir in flour until blended. Return to heat and cook until mixture is bubbly (1-2 minutes). Gradually add the chicken broth, then the tomato paste. Whisk until smooth. Add the whipping cream and crab. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer. Cook 3-4 minutes and serve with sour cream and a sprinkling of parsley. Makes 6 servings.

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BARRELHEAD B U I L D I N G S U P P LY

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BARRELHEAD BUILDING SUPPLY

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3551 SE FERRY SLIP RD. SOUTH BEACH • 541-867-7681

Newport Recreation Center Tables of Content RESTAURANT A Very Special Dining Experience

Drop-Ins Welcome

(541) 265-7783

225 SE Avery St. Newport

www.NewportOregon.gov/Recreation

Dinner by Reservation Served at 7 p.m. Menu Changes Daily Ocean Front (541) 265-5428 267 NE Cliff Street, Newport


Newport’s Gentle Giants A True Newport Adventure

Story and Photos by: Fran Mathews Marine Discovery Tours - Newport

G

rab some boat tickets to experience a true Newport adventure. Smell the salt brine that’s thick in the air... Watch a gentle ocean wave roll over a 45-foot body the size of a school bus. Hear the moisture laden blow of Newport’s largest summer & fall “visitors - herds of feeding gray whales. The Oregon Coast, like an aquatic superhighway that’s full of sea life on the move, offers a spectacular opportunity to watch these “gentle giants” as they majestically follow their seasonal rhythms of spring and winter migration, then, settling in for the balmy summer and fall to feed, on average, a half mile offshore during the calmest ocean conditions of the year. A robust population of 19,000 gray whales swims along our shoreline twice a year on one of the longest marine mammal migrations. They ply the near shore Pacific Ocean that laps along Newport’s beaches, following the sound of the surf that leads them south in the winter to their salty lagoons along the Baja Peninsula to mate and birth the next generation. The early spring finds them returning past Newport, as the majority head north, to abundant feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. Local marine operators love to share great news with visitors to Newport - there is a six-mile reef that runs close to

shore along Oregon’s central coast from Cape Perpetua to Cascade Head - by road, an hour north and south of Newport’s whale watching fleet. This rich reef structure teems with life, including a gray whale’s favorite food - tiny swarming mycids and amphipods no bigger than the tip of your thumb! So, like giant whale picnic baskets, the reefs lure an average of 200 - 300 of the migrating Grays into stopping and feeding throughout the summer months of June through mid-October. They dive to the bottom and feed, on average, 40 times a day - providing amazing opportunities to observe and photograph. A number of these “resident feeders” return year after year, having been identified by some of the Newport excursions through photos, markings and barnacle patterns.

Whale Watching Tips:

Make reservations in advance - peak boating season is during the active visitor months with boat departures leaving daily from the Newport Bayfront. Adult tickets range $30 - $36, depending on whether you want a self-guided ride or an educational tour with a marine naturalist. Dress in layers - it’s sometimes cooler on the water. Eat something light and mellow - happy tummy. Take cameras of any kind family snapshots to Facebook downloads!

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Agate Beach Golf Course An Experience for Golfers of All Ages and Skill Levels

T

he Agate Beach Golf Course as it’s now called, started out as Agate Beach Golf Links in the early 1930’s. Agate Beach Golf Course is a nine-hole course located on the beautiful Pacific Ocean. The photo is of Agate Beach Golf Links, circa 1934. Built in 1931 and operated since 1960 by the Martin family, the course boasts a fairly level, well-manicured, slightly rolling terrain. Surrounded by a lush wooded area, Agate Beach is a pleasure to play. The greens are meticulously groomed and therefore provide superb putting surfaces. In addition, the sophisticated drainage gives golfers the capability to play year round, making Agate Beach an excellent course for all season play. The walkability and picturesque landscape make Agate Beach Golf Course an enjoyable experience for golfers of all ages and skill levels. The slope is 107 with a rating of 66.0 for men, while for women the course’s slope is 109 and rating is 69.4. The total distance from the ladies tee is 2,894 yards for a par of 38. The total distance from the men’s tee is 3,002 yards for a par of 36. The course record set by Doug Skille in 1993 is 62. Head golf professional Terry Martin says his favorite part of the course is the eighth hole, par 3, which his father Bill constructed in 1960. Number eight is a 115-yard hole with towering fir and hemlock trees. A large bunker guards the challenging green. This hole serves as a memorial to Bill Martin, who passed away in 1995. Lessons are available from teaching professional Ron Remy. Individual group lessons are available by reservation. Please call the pro shop at (541) 265-7331. Agate Beach offers a full service pro shop which features both men’s and women’s apparel, including sportswear, rainwear, shoes and wind shirts. Clubs, bags and golf accessories are also available. After a relaxing game, the Agate Beach Coffee Shop staff is ready to serve you. The coffee shop boasts a breakfast and lunch menu including hearty breakfasts, daily lunch specials, homemade soups and chowders. Reasonable prices and a good atmosphere make this coffee

shop a favorite among golfers. Agate Beach is located at the north end of Newport on Highway l0l’s east side. Easy to find and easy to play makes this course an excellent choice for the golfer visiting the Oregon coast. Photo and Map courtesy of Agate Beach Golf Course.

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NYE COTTAGE

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208 NE Coast Street • Newport, OR 97365

541-265-6262 • www.nyecottage.com A beautiful and unusual array of FINE GIFTS & HOME DECOR. Floral Designs • Holiday Items Wedding & Baby Accessories Throws • Lamps • Garden • Kitchen Candles • Cards • Jewelry • Lotions

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3 Great Attractions in Newport Oregon

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541-256-2206

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EXPERIENCE

26. 30. 36. 38.

Forever Funky Newport’s Historic Bayfront Lighthouses Oregon Coast Aquarium

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Forever Funky

Spend a Day (At Least!) in Nye Beach by Nancy Steinberg

L

ocals and visitors alike love the historic Newport neighborhood of Nye Beach, with its scrumptious restaurants, stunning art galleries, and fascinating shops. Add in the amazing namesake beach, the Newport Performing Arts Center, and an endlessly fun playground at Coast Park, and there’s something in this oceanfront neighborhood for everyone. While you can spend far more than a day exploring Nye Beach, here are some suggestions for some must-do Nye Beach activities.

Good Morning! Coffee, Pastry, and a Walk A great way to start your Nye Beach day is by indulging in a steaming latte and mouthwatering pastry at Panini Bakery on Coast Street. Be warned: the bakers here make one batch of their treats each morning, and when they’re gone, they’re gone, so don’t wait too long. A perennial favorite is their cinnamon roll, enormous and packed with cinnamony, sugary, sticky goodness. There might be a little butter in them as well. With this much flavor, there is no need for gooey white frosting – you won’t miss it. They make a variety of crumbly, delicious scones, also big enough to share, most with seasonal fruit. The pasty selection is usually rounded out with muffins, croissants, danish, and other delights, but the exact types vary daily. Try the banana bread – cut into generous pieces, it is topped with a sweet, crunchy crust and a chunk of caramelized banana. Other delights include their homemade granola with yogurt, small sweet breads (the eponymous panini), and a couple of hot entrees each day. As for the coffee, I have yet to find a better latte in Newport. You can eat in if you can snag a table, or get your breakfast to go and head to the beach. Beach access is at the Nye Beach Turnaround, under the concrete arch. While the profile of the beach changes seasonally (and sometimes as quickly as overnight if a storm has blown in), Nye Beach is generally flat and wide, perfect for walking, sand castle building, boogie boarding, kite flying or other sandy activities. At the north end of the beach, perhaps a 15-minute walk from the turnaround, are the remains of Jump-off Joe, a sandstone sea stack that eroded away in the mid-20th century. This spot informally separates Nye Beach from Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Agate Beach to the north. While beachcombing is always popular and fruitful on Newport’s beaches, this summer is a good time to keep your eyes open for a particular kind of flotsam: tsunami debris that has floated across the ocean after the devastating 2011 Japanese tsunami. A range of items is now being discovered, from an enormous floating dock in the summer of 2012 to wooden temple beams to plastic bottles. As you wander the neighborhood, make sure to look up at the light posts. Every summer local artists design unique Nye Beach banners that fly from these posts and declare Nye Beach’s unique and arty character. In the fall they’ll be auctioned off to raise funds for local youth art programs.

Shopping, Lunch at Nye Beach Market, and More Shopping Whether you’re searching for a vacation souvenir, a wedding gift, or just a little something for yourself, you’re bound to find what you’re looking for in the shops of Nye Beach. The explosion of color that emanates from The Dapper Frog might lure you in just after your beach walk. One of five Dapper Frog locations in Oregon, the shop carries a dizzying array of high-quality art, decorative items, jewelry, ceramics, and more. Goods range from colorful and fun $10 tagua rings to spectacular works of glass art costing thousands of dollars. An animal and nature theme runs throughout the store. In one cabinet is a set of gemlike glass frogs depicted in various stages of leaping. Whimsical ceramic dogs adorn another corner, begging to be adopted. A number of regional artists are represented; one of my favorites is Christopher Marley of Salem, who creates gridded mosaics of butterflies, feathers, and other items from the natural world, framing them on stark white mats.

to find something to mark a very special occasion,” he says. On a recent visit I tried valiantly to protect my wallet by leaving it in the car, but I was unsuccessful. I wanted a fun, cheap, mid-week kind of red wine and Wahl came up with two options instantly. I bought both, and am happy to report they both hit the mark. When I go back, he’ll remember me, as he does all of his customers, and personalize some new recommendations. In addition to wines hailing from the Willamette Valley to Argentina to Italy and beyond, he also stocks mouth-watering specialty foods such as cheeses, chocolates, Italian pastas, and mustards. Wahl offers themed wine tastings most weekends, and hopes to be offering wines by the glass this summer. Your stomach may be telling you by now that it’s time for lunch. A great choice is the casual, friendly Nye Beach Market, where you can find soups, sandwiches, burritos, and other lunchtime fare made fresh, often with local ingredients. Sandwiches include hot pastrami, ham and brie, and spicy tuna made with locally canned albacore, all stacked on homemade focaccia bread. Custom deli sandwiches can be whipped up for you as well.

All their sandwiches can be made on their homemade gluten-free bread for $1 extra, and the creamy clam chowder is also gluten-free. They offer a selection of burritos, including the delicious Johnny Wrap, a vegetarian option with no cheese and homemade salsa. If you’ve left room for dessert, the options are simple perfection: homemade fruit pie with or without ice cream, or chocolate mousse. Who needs anything else? If you want to continue shopping after lunch, head up Coast Street to Jovi, right next door to Panini. This stunning shop is packed with treasures from around the globe, from housewares to perfume to jewelry to art. Store owners Jody George and Veronica Willemin both love to travel – George lives in Mexico for three months of the year – and that travel bug is evident on their shelves. Walking into Jovi is like wandering into an exotic international bazaar. French soaps that smell good enough to nibble, Haitian metal wall hangings, Mexican and Balinese silver, fine Polish tableware, vintage Turkish oil jars – all these treasures and more are displayed artfully in Nye Beach continued on page 28

Zach Wahl, the owner of the Nye Beach Wine Cellar, moved his shop around the corner into a gorgeous, larger new space in January. Zach is the most knowledgeable and least pretentious wine merchant you can find, and his shop is packed with wines at every price point and from every corner of the world. “It’s just as easy to find something inexpensive here to drink alone in a hotel room as it is Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Panini Bakery 232 NW Coast St. 541-265-5033 Open daily 7-7

Nye Beach continued from page 27

every nook and cranny of the store. “We both love the art of arrangement,” George explains, and so the displays change frequently. Asked about her own favorites, George points to the subtle and unique scents of Tokyo Milk lotions and perfumes, which come in scents such as Gin & Rosewater, Let Them Eat Cake, and Honey & the Moon. She also loves new wall hangings and pillows from Kashmir, woven from wool using traditional methods but in very untraditional, designer patterns. George recently opened a kitchenware shop, Tu Tu Tu, a few doors away. The aesthetic is similar to Jovi, but with a distinct focus on high-end wares for the kitchen and table.

Afternoon Pick-Me-Up If your strength is flagging and you’d like a quick treat and a caffeine infusion, head toward the beach once more and stop by

Carl’s Coffee, a new addition to the Nye Beach scene. Carl’s serves Stumptown Coffee, an exquisite bean roasted in Portland and familiar across the Pacific Northwest. Carl knows quality when he sees it: he also serves perfect pastries from Newport’s La Maison, a small bistro across town. Other quick treats include truffles from Spokandy of Spokane, WA, as well as great sandwiches (for your next lunch, try the signature Cuban sandwich). The primo location allows for quick access to the beach and the rest of Nye Beach’s sights, or you can just enjoy the gorgeous view from the corner table. Local artists provide the décor, so the interior view is great too.

Dinner and Tunes An absolute Newport institution for locals and hip visitors alike is Café Mundo, where the food and the live music are equally fantastic

Dapper Frog 701 NW Beach Dr. 541-265-3764 Open daily 10-6 Nye Beach Wine Cellar 255 NW Coast St. 541-265-3292 Tue 12-5 Wed – Fri 11- 6 Sat 11- 7 Sun 11- 6 Nye Beach Market 526 NW Coast St. 541-574-1599 Mon-Thurs 8-4 Fri-Sun 8-6 Jovi 232 NW Coast St. 541-265-8220 Mon – Sat: 10-6 Sun: 10-5 Carl’s Coffee 715 NW Beach Dr. 541-265-8665 Daily 7-3 Café Mundo NW 2nd Ct. and Coast St. 541-574-8134 Tues-Thurs 11 - 10 Fri-Sat: 11 - Midnight Sun 10 - 4

and satisfying (and in both cases mostly local). The vibe is casual and funky, inside and out: décor includes individually painted tables, local artists’ works, flowing silky wall hangings, a surfboard or two, Tibetan prayer flags, a furry bicycle, and a terrific climbing tree in the middle of the outdoor seating area. Greg and Laurie Card, Mundo’s energetic and talented owners, literally built the entire restaurant from scratch, with the help of a supportive community who wanted to help the Cards achieve their dream of taking the restaurant from a food cart surrounded by hay bales, open only in the summer, to a yearround eatery, performance venue, and heart of the Nye Beach community. Ingredients are Photos by: Jo Wienert

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fresh and local, and dishes are creative and absolutely delicious. Perennial favorites include the unique sushi rolls that focus on local ingredients; tacos filled with chicken mole, fish, or tempeh; bento bowls featuring local albacore tuna, teriyaki chicken, or seasonal veggies; and a range of salads (the house-made poppy seed dressing is available by the bottle), wraps, and sandwiches. And the desserts … oh, the desserts. They rotate, but usually include a mixed berry crisp, frequently a chocolate ganache tort, and a range of other delights depending on Chef Laurie’s mood. Lately she’s been serving what she terms “jarfaits,” mason jars filled with layers of whatever strikes her fancy, like the German chocolate jarfait: chocolate pudding cake, coconut cream cheesecake mousse, chocolate ganache, coconut-walnut and pecan filling and cream. Oh my. Music at Mundo includes Open-Mic Night on Thursdays, and often local and regional favorites like the June Rushing Band or Rick Bartow and the Backseat Drivers, with traveling musicians often making appearances as well. Every summer locals mount a Shakespearean production in the outdoor stage and seating area, an event termed Teatro Mundo. Perhaps exhaustion has set in by the end of your Nye Beach day, but you haven’t exhausted its possibilities – leave time to come back again!

FOREVER FUNKY

(FOR THE YOUNGER CROWD) For those under twelve, perhaps shopping for wine or sipping coffee isn’t that much fun. As promised, though, there’s something in Nye Beach for everyone, including these two parks nearby to satisfy active kids who want to climb, slide, skate, and spin.

COAST PARK

Corner of W. Olive St. and Coast St. next to the Performing Arts Center The highlight of this city playground is an enormous tunnel slide that emerges from a pirate ship’s hull and follows the sand dune at one end of the park down to the ground. There are also things that spin in enough directions to thrill any kid, and climbing equipment galore. A smaller, gentler play area is included for smaller kids, and paved paths wind through the park, perfect for small bikes and scooters. Impromptu performances can be given at the miniature amphitheater area, and you can rest your tired feet at picnic tables and benches scattered throughout the site. There is plenty of parking along Coast St. and in the parking lot of the Newport Performing Arts Center.

NEWPORT SKATE PARK 656 NW High St. Skateboarders will love this 6,500 square foot concrete skate park, which encourages high-speed skating with subtle curves and dips. The skate park is adjacent to a playground with great climbing equipment, slides, and picnic tables.

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Newport’s Historic Bayfront Food, Fun, and the Fishing Fleet by Nancy Steinberg

Photo by: Jo Wienert

P

robably no coastal community in the U.S. integrates a working waterfront with a tourist destination better than Newport, where each neighborhood function flourishes and reinforces the other. The Historic Bayfront is Newport’s main working waterfront, where most of the substantial fishing fleet ties up, bringing much of their catch to the fish processing plants that line the bay side of the street. At the same time, this neighborhood is also bursting with excellent restaurants, eclectic treasure-filled shops, and engaging attractions. Here are a few highlights to help you scratch the surface of this diverse and exciting area, but behind every shop door are more surprises, so explore, explore, explore!

Great Meals The diverse flavors of the Bayfront pose a diner’s dilemma for every meal. Where to eat? A range of Asian flavors as well as a spectacular bay view can be found at the Noodle Café. Start with the fresh, simple, delicious shrimp basil rolls: rice wrappers packed with large shrimp, rice noodles, and herbs, with a sweet-spicy dipping sauce. You can

Photo by: Jo Wienert

choose from main dishes originating in a range of Asian countries: curries, stir fries, noodle dishes, kimchee, and pho, among others. On a cool day the pho or spicy seafood broth called jung bong both particularly hit the spot. Another favorite is the wok-tossed udon, a house special of shrimp, scallops, calamari, and vegetables tossed with udon noodles and a soy garlic sauce. Photo by: eongdi

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At the opposite end of the street is the charming and cozy Coffee House, open for breakfast and lunch. While you wait for your superb coffee to brew or for your hang-over-the-plate pancake or fluffy omelet to come off the griddle, you can watch the fishing fleet come and go right across the street. Crisp crab cakes are made with locally harvested Dungeness crab. Lunch options include hot sandwiches on homemade focaccia bread, hearty clam chowder, and catch-of-the-day fish and chips. One unique specialty of the house is the house-made traditional British pastie, a flaky pastry crust filled with savory goodness: parsnip, turnip, carrot, onion, potato and special herbs. They have a meat-lovers’ version as well, for which they add premium Angus beef to the veggies. If you’d like your meal to be accompanied by wildlife viewing, check out Port Dock One, where locals and visitors meet and mingle. The whole restaurant, but particularly the upstairs dining and lounge area (limited to those over 21), has one of the best dining views in Newport. Port Dock One’s steaks, seafood, salads, burgers, and sandwiches nearly

Photo by: Jo Wienert

always come with a side show of barking sea lions, who hang out on the floating docks just below. More about these residents in a minute.

Shopping Deals There’s something for everyone in the shops of the Bayfront. Here are a couple of highlights. Inscapes Gallery carries a wide range of art, decorative items, furniture, jewelry, and other goods, all handmade. You could get lost just in this one store’s huge inventory. Some especially wonderful treasures here include turned wooden bowls, kaleidoscopes, musical instruments, art prints, and gorgeous rocking chairs. Check out the incredibly detailed lifelike sculptures in a range of metals and woods. Those with a sweet tooth have multiple options, including Newport Candy Shoppe and Aunt Belinda’s Candies. At both there is a dazzling selection of creative flavors of salt-water taffy made with real egg whites rather than oil. You can watch the taffy being made on a mesmerizing taffy-pulling machine in the window of Newport Candy Shoppe. If taffy isn’t your bag, here you can also indulge in caramel corn, chocolate confections, and jawbreakers made for a range of jaw sizes. At Aunt Belinda’s you can also find old fashioned cooked creams, truffles, fudge, and a whimsical selection of metal lunchboxes in which to carry your sweet treasures. Another gallery with a gorgeous selection of items is Oceanic Arts, which features works of local and regional artists, much of it inspired by the sea around us. Artist Mike Correll’s huge deep-toned bells made from recycled steel tanks are one of the first things that will catch your eye. Other covetables here include colorful and functional pottery, affordable fused glass picture frames and photo holders, Gary Manos’s burnished stainless steel wall sculptures of local marine life, and originals and prints from a range of artists. If you think that “Life is Good,” and who doesn’t when they’re at the beach, show it off in a range of “Life is Good” t-shirts and other items also available at Oceanic Arts. Finally, don’t miss the sights and smells of Newport Bay Candle Photos courtesy: Inscapes Gallery

Bayfront continued on page 34

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1-800-COAST-44 Photo by: Jo Wienert


DiscoverNewport.com


Bayfront continued from page 31

WHEN YOU GO: Noodle Café Company. This local business pours its candles at a separate facility near the Safeway on Rte. 101, but their Bayfront retail shop shows off the best of their handmade wares, as well as soaps, jewelry, and gift items. They produce many gel candles which burn two to three times as long as soy- or wax-based ones. All of their products come in a stunning array of scents, from the traditional (Gingerbread, Lilac) to the quirkily evocative (My Boyfriend’s Shirt, Butterfly Kisses). Popular items here include At the Beach candles embedded with shells and other beach treasures, and “liquid lights,” gel candles molded in wine glasses that glimmer in winy shades when lit.

Rods and Reels Down at the far end of the Bayfront you can see the vessels of Newport’s fishing fleet tied up. Interpretive signs along the Port Dock marinas explain the differences among the kinds of boats in port and tell a bit of the story of our proud fishing fleet and the types of quarry they pursue. In the summer months you can often buy fish right off the boats here, including albacore tuna, salmon, crabs, rockfish, and lingcod. Even if you’re not in the market for something for dinner, it’s fun to walk along all of the docks and dream of the seafaring life. If you’re not content to let the commercial fishing fleet do the work for you, you can hop on a charter fishing boat, a number of which are headquartered along the Bayfront, and do the catching yourself. See the article on p. 18 on recreational fishing for more details.

837 SW Bay Blvd. 541-574-6688 Mon - Tue: 11- 9 Thu - Sat: 11- 9 Sun 12 - 9

Coffee House

156 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-6263 Daily 7-2

Port Dock One

325 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-2911 Daily noon -11

Inscapes Gallery

818 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-6843 Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sat: open at 10 am Sun: 11-4

Newport Candy Shoppe 440 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-2580 Opens at 9 am daily

Aunt Belinda’s Candies 640 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-2075 Opens at 9 am daily

Oceanic Arts

444 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-5963 Opens daily at 10 am

Newport Bay Candle Company 424 SW Bay Blvd. 541-574-0034 Mon-Fri: 11-5 Sat & Sun: 10 - 6 They’re Not Seals! Finally, a few words about those immense and loud marine mammals you can hear from all along the Bayfront, and see on the docks near Port Dock One. These are male California sea lions hauled out to take a break from their normal activities of stalking fish (or mooching fish guts from the boats and processing plants). While more of them hang around in the late fall and winter after the breeding season is over, you can find the older bulls here pretty much year-round. Follow the racket to the Undersea Gardens and you can look down onto the decrepit pier where these guys hang out. Local businesses have banded together to try to refurbish the haul-out sites so these local celebrities have a more permanent place to crash. To support these efforts, see www. newportsealiondocks.com. Photo by: Jo Wienert

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FISHING YEAR ROUND

HALIBUT • BOTTOM FISH • TUNA SALMON • WHALE WATCHING 42’ TO 56’ BOATS • GROUP RATES AVAILABLE ONE-DAY LICENSES • BAIT & TACKLE FURNISHED • HOT COFFEE

5 - 6 - 8 - 10 - 12 HOUR TRIPS Also 12 - 18 - 33 HOUR TUNA TRIPS

6-13 Yr. Olds

E PRR ITC 1/2 s 10 HOu RIP 5-

NEWPORT TRADEWINDS On Newport Bayfront 653 SW Bay Blvd. Newport, Or 97365

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For reservations call 541-265-8521 or 1-800-547-4779 • Visit us online at www.embarcadero-resort.com


Lighthouses Of Newport Oregon

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he city of Newport is home to two historic lighthouses that are not to be missed.

YAQUINA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE is one of the West Coast’s most visited lighthouses. Located just north of Newport in the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area, the Yaquina Head Lighthouse was built in 1873, and remains an excellent example of late 1800’s lighthouses. At 93 feet, the tower is the tallest lighthouse in Oregon. Located on a narrow point of land jutting due west into the Pacific Ocean. The Yaquina Head Lighthouse took more

than a year to build, using more than 370,000 bricks. The light has been active since Head Keeper Fayette Crosby first walked up the 114 steps to light the wicks on the evening of August 20, 1873. During this time, the oil-burning, fixed white light was displayed from sunset to sunrise. Today, the fully automated first order Fresnel lens runs on commercial power, flashing its unique pattern of two seconds on, two seconds off, two seconds on, 14 seconds off, 24 hours a day. The oil burning wicks were replaced with a 1,000-watt globe, according to the U.S. Coast Guard, keepers of the aid to navigation, generates over 130,000 candlepower. While the nightly vigil of watching the light is gone, as are the resident keepers and their quarters, the Bureau of Land Management, who isnow responsible for the tower, guide visitors through the lighthouse with tales of yesteryear, year around. The interpretive center opened at Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area in May 1997 and is the best place to start your visit to this 100 acre site. It features exhibits related to many features of the area, along with a well-stocked interpretive store. Proceeds from store sales directly benefit Friends of Yaquina Lighthouses, and are used for lighthouse restoration, education, interpretation and maintenance. Yaquina Head offers much more than the lighthouse with trails providing easy access to view marine wildlife in tide pools, rookery rocks and coves. A threeday pass is good to visit the site and lighthouse and is $7 per car. The Lighthouse is open to the public every day except for Thanksgiving and Christmas. From the end of June through Labor Day the hours are 11:00AM – 5:00 PM and the remainder of the year we are open 12:00 noon – 4:00PM.

YAQUINA BAY LIGHTHOUSE A piece of Oregon history sits atop a bluff at the mouth of the Yaquina River. It is the Historic Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, built in 1871 and decommissioned in 1874. It was officially restored as a privately maintained aid to navigation on December 7, 1996. It is believed to be the oldest structure in Newport. It is also the only Photos by: Jo Wienert

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existing Oregon lighthouse with the living quarters attached, and the only historic wooden Oregon lighthouse still standing. The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse has been restored back to when it was a working lighthouse by the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department, with the help of many people and agencies, including Friends of Yaquina Lighthouses. The Friends of Yaquina Lighthouses is a Cooperative Association partners with Oregon Parks and Recreation Department. The Cooperating Association, also known as “Friends Group” is a private 501(c)3 nonprofit organization formed by local citizens to provide and support the restoration, education and interpretive services of the park. This organization relies heavily on volunteer support in all areas of operation. Friends support state parks by operating museums and interpretive stores and providing additional educational programs at the park. Friends help support these projects by raising funds for park projects and historical renovations and building new park facilities. The Friends of Yaquina Lighthouse nonprofit status, allows them to sell memberships, write grants, receive qualified donations and receive donated materials. For more information on OPRD’s Cooperative Association program, visit their website. The official relighting ceremony with the US Coast Guard took place on December 7, 1996. The light shines with a steady white light from dusk to dawn (and sometimes on dark days, because it is controlled by a photocell.) The light is 161 feet above sea level. The Lighthouse is open to the public every day except for holidays such as Christmas, New Years, and Thanksgiving. The hours during the

summer (Memorial Day weekend through the end of September) are 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM and during the months of October to Memorial Day, the hours are 12:00 noon until 4:00 PM. Entrance is free by donation. The lighthouse is accessible via paved trails and a walkway leading to the top of the hill within the Yaquina Bay State Park, at the north end of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. Access-compromised visitor groups are encouraged to use the large parking lot at the back of the lighthouse (entrance at SW Government and 9th Streets). Inside the lighthouse, two flights of stairs lead to the watch room. The lantern room is not open to the public. The basement is open to the public and features a video about the lighthouse. The Interpretive Store offers many new and exciting educational items about lighthouses and the surrounding coastal habitat. Interesting places to visit within walking or short driving distance include the Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Science Center, Oregon Coast Aquarium, and the US Coast Guard Station Yaquina Bay.

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Connect With the Ocean and its Creatures at the Oregon Coast Aquarium! Story Courtesy of the Oregon Coast Aquarium

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o visit to the coastal city of Newport is complete without a stop at the Oregon Coast Aquarium. This world-class marine attraction overlooks scenic Yaquina Bay just south of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. The Aquarium strives to be a center of excellence for ocean literacy and plays an active role in conservation, education and animal rehabilitation efforts. Visitors can immerse themselves in the Aquarium with a wander through Passages of the Deep, named “The coolest 50 yards on the Oregon Coast!” by Spirit Magazine. The 1.32 million-gallon exhibit displays a diverse array of marine animals including sharks up to 10 feet long. The series of tunnels feature a 360 degree view of three different kinds of underwater landscapes that are characteristic of the Oregon Coast. Sea & Me, an interactive exhibit designed for children ages 4-10, offers entertainment for everyone. Kids will enjoy the half a dozen interactive play areas while teens and adults will see seahorses, cichlids, and a wide array of colorful tropical fish. The Aquarium’s Pinniped Exhibit underwent a massive overhaul this winter and is a must see for both new and veteran guests. The remodel enhanced the habitat for the Aquarium’s harbor seals and sea lions, interaction areas for the trainers, and increased the viewing area by over 400 percent. For an exceptionally memorable experience, guests may schedule a fishy kiss from the Aquarium’s resident California Sea Lions or Harbor Seals. The Aquarium also boasts one of the largest outdoor seabird aviaries in the United States. Tufted puffins, common murres, rhinoceros auklets, pigeon guillemots and black oystercatchers all call the craggy cliffs and clear ponds home. Daily feedings at 2:30 p.m. delight visitors of all ages as each bird larks about to get the fishes of their choice. In addition to the seabird aviary, the Aquarium has an additional aviary that is home to two turkey vultures. Guests are often surprised by the size of the brother and sister pair, Ichabod and Olive, who busy themselves with toys and other enrichment items. A nearby underwater cave is inhabited by Photos by: Jo Wienert

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a Giant Pacific Octopus. Viewers sometimes need to stretch their powers of observation to spot the creature, which can camouflage with its environment and squeeze its soft body into dark crags. Researchers now believe that octopuses are as smart as house cats, capable of navigating mazes, using simple tools and recognizing individuals. Guests can book an octopus encounter to feed and shake hands with one of these intelligent, seemingly alien animals.

The Aquarium’s sea otter exhibit is home to the largest population of sea otters in Oregon today. The all-male raft is comprised of rescued otters from the California and Alaska coasts. Judge, Mojo and Schuster’s playful antics make them a popular attraction at the Aquarium. Guests can view daily feedings at 10:30 a.m., 1:00 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. The Oregon Coast Aquarium opened its doors in 1992 to inspire the public to better understand, cherish and conserve marine

and coastal ecosystems. The 39-acre facility features indoor and outdoor exhibits that repeatedly earned the Aquarium a ranking as one of the top ten aquariums in the nation. Built on an abandoned industrial site, the Aquarium did a lot of work to transform the grounds into an expansive naturescape for guests to explore. The north end of the property is dedicated to a nature trail that skirts an estuary – a unique feature for an aquarium. This wild exhibit features over one hundred native plant species, many of them labeled to continue the Aquarium’s education program for guests. As one of Oregon’s most popular attractions, the Aquarium hosts an estimated 450,000 visitors annually. The 501c3 non-profit is funded through ticket sales, grants and the support of Aquarium members. The Aquarium is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer travel season and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in the winter months. To check for discounts, purchase tickets and learn more, visit www.aquarium.org.

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spectacular oceanfront

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h yeah! Whether you’re coming on business, pleasure or just to play in the sand. The Holiday Inn Express & Suites is the perfect place to relax. Come and enjoy our complimentary “Express Start” Hot Breakfast Buffet featuring our signature warm cinnamon rolls, free high speed internet, indoor heated pool & hot tub, business center, fitness center and guest laundry. Included are:

• Complimentary full hot breakfast buffet daily • Indoor heated pool & hot tub • Well equipped fitness center • 24 hour business center • Free high speed wireless internet • Coin operated guest laundry • All guest rooms include microwave, refrigerator coffee maker, iron, ironing board, hair dryer & in-room safe.

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LIVE

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Rogue Brewery

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O.C.C.A.

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Bier One

Photo Courtesy: OCCA

Photo Courtesy: OCCA

Photo by: Jo Wienert

Photo Courtesy: OCCA

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Summer Happenings at the Rogue Behind the Scenes at the Most Award-Winning Brewery in the World by Nancy Steinberg

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very time of year is a good time of year to visit Newport’s Rogue Brewery (as every time of year is a good time of year to drink beer). But beer goes particularly well with summer, and there’s lots going on at Rogue to lure you in, particularly if you are interested in how they do what they do. Rogue Ales, 25 years old this year, has come a long way from its humble beginnings in a basement in Ashland to its position as the world’s largest brewer of handcrafted beers, all made right here in our fair city. Not only does Rogue currently brew 32 varieties at any given time; not only has it branched out into making fine spirits including gin, whiskey and rum; not only are Rogue products now available in all 50 states and 21 countries; and not only does it serve great food at two locations in Newport; but Rogue is also now

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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operating its very own farms that provide hops, barley, and other ingredients for their brews. Rogue Nation is definitely on the rise. All of Rogue’s brews and spirits are produced in South Beach at the brewery and distillery at the foot of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. Attached to the brewery is Brewer’s on the Bay, a restaurant and bar that offers a panoramic view of Yaquina Bay and 40 taps. On the Bayfront across the water is the Rogue Ales Public House, which features indoor and outdoor seating and 35 taps. The food at both is worthy of the excellent beverages. Made with fresh, high-quality ingredients, this is no typical bar food. Much of it is infused with Rogue products: t h e r e’s


Rogue in the chili, Reuben sandwich, ale bread, fish & chips, sauces, pizza, cheese soup, mussels, and even the pita. Specialties include Kobe burgers made with the highest-quality beef from pasture-fed cows; the beef is also used in the chili, tacos, bleu balls (ground beef stuffed with Rogue Creamery bleu cheese), sausages and taco salad. The fish and chips are one of my favorites – the hint of dill and the crispy beer batter (made with only the best beer, of course) sets it apart from the piles of fish and chips to be found in Newport. Want to see how the magic is made? Rogue offers brewery and distillery tours year-round; in the summer tours are given at 1, 3, and 5 pm on weekdays. Highlights include their “pantry” of malts and grains, the mesmerizing bottling line, and the immense fermenters, each of which is large enough to holds 360 kegs. Gin is in right now (was it ever out?), and Rogue distills their own, along with rum, vodka, and whiskey, at the Rogue House of Spirits & Distillery, next door to the brewery in South Beach. A full selection of the spirits is available to try, as well as a limited food menu featuring Rogue Creamery cheeses. Tours of the distillery operation are given at 4 pm on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays; they intend to add weekday tours during the summer so call for more info (541-265-3188). A short drive from Newport are the Rogue’s two farms. The Rogue Hopyard in Independence, OR in the Willamette Valley grows seven varieties of hops on 42 acres. Tours of the Hopyard and hop processing facility are given on Saturdays and Sundays at 3:00 pm and a variety of special events will be held throughout the summer. For more information, call 503-838-9813. In Tygh Valley in the shadow of Mt. Hood, Rogue grows malting barley on a 200-acre farm. Other crops on the farm include hay, apples, pears, peaches, plums, cherries and blueberries. This summer, some of the farm workers at the Hopyard – 1.6 million of them to be exact – will labor away to help produce a special brew. The workers are honeybees, who will sip from the blackberries, raspberries, cherries, lavender, and pumpkin plants at the farm. They will then produce nearly 5,000 pounds of honey, which will be used in Rogue’s new Honey Kolsch brew, available nationwide July 1 in special sunny yellow bottles. This new quaff will be a light-bodied, summery brew perfect for barbeques and the beach.

When You Go: Brewer’s on the Bay

2320 OSU Dr. 541-867-3664 Sun - Thurs: 11 - 9 Fri & Sat: 11 - 10 Brewery tours leave from here

Rogue House of Spirits 2122 Marine Science Dr. 541- 867-3673 Fri: 4- 8 Sat: noon - 8 Sun: noon - 6

Rogue Ales Public House 748 SW Bay Blvd. 541-265-3188 Sun - Thurs: 11 - Midnight Fri & Sat: 11- 1AM

Rogue Farms Hopyard 3590 Wigrich Rd. Independence, OR 97351 503-838-9813 Mon - Fri: 4 - 9 Sat & Sun: 11 - 9

So raise a glass to summer – just make sure it contains a Rogue beer or spirit! Photo by: Jo Wienert

Rogue continued on page 44 43


Rogue continued from page 43

The Rogue’s Bling Rogue Ales is the most awarded microbrewery in the world. Here are some of its most recent triumphs:

American Amber

2013 World Beer Championships - Gold 2012World Beer Championships - Bronze 2012 Australian International Beer Awards - Silver 2011 World Beer Championships - Silver

Brutal IPA

2013 World Beer Championships - Gold 2012 World Beer Championships - Silver 2012 Australian International Beer Awards - Silver 2011 World Beer Championships - Silver

Chipotle Ale

2013 World Beer Championships - Gold 2013 World Beverage Competition - Platinum 2012 World Beer Championships - Gold 2011 World Beer Championships - Gold 2011 Mondial de la Biere - Gold

Chocolate Stout

2012 World Beer Championships - Gold 2012 Australian International Beer Awards - Silver 2011 Mondial de la Biere - Gold

Dead Guy Ale

2013 World Beverage Competition - Platinum 2012 World Beer Championships - Gold 2012 Australian International Beer Awards - Bronze

Dry Hopped St. Rogue Red

2012 Australian International Beer Awards - Silver 2012 World Beer Championship - Silver 2012 U.S. Beer Tasting Championship - Best of Pacific NW 2011 World Beer Championship - Gold

Juniper Pale Ale

2013 World Beer Championships - Gold 2012 World Beer Awards - Gold 2012 U.S. Beer Tasting Championships - Honorable Mention 2011 World Beer Championships - Gold

Mogul Madness

2012 World Beer Championships - Silver 2011 World Beer Championships - Silver

Santa’s Private Reserve

2012 World Beer Championships - Gold 2011 World Beer Championships - Gold

Smoke Ale

2011 World Beer Championships - Gold 2011 Great American Beer Festival - Gold

Yellow Snow IPA

2013 World Beer Championships - Gold 2012 World Beer Championships - Gold 2012 Australian International Beer Awards - Silver 2011 World Beer Championships - Gold

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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Little Creek Cove

• Unique ocean-level condos • Full kitchens and fireplaces • Private covered decks • Secluded location • Adjacent to golf course

Newport, Oregon

800-294-8025

www.littlecreekcove.com

Photo by Chuck Forinash © Forinash Gallery

You can count on us for your special diet needs when you visit the Coast • • • • •

We’re Open Full-line grocery Gluten & Dairy Free Foods Every Day Organically grown produce Large variety of bulk foods, herbs & spices Sandwiches, soups, salads & entreés made fresh weekdays 159 S.E. 2nd Street Newport, Oregon 97365 541.265.8285 www.oceanafoods.org

Monday-Friday: 8am-7pm Saturday: 8am-6pm Sunday: 10am-6pm

Find us on Facebook!


OCCA

Oregon Coast Council for the Arts by Catherine Rickbone, OCCA Newport Visual Arts Center The View: The Newport Visual Arts Center, (VAC) at 777N Beach Drive in the Nye Beach Turnaround has a breathtaking view overlooking the Pacific Ocean on the Central Oregon coast in historic Nye Beach. Experience Art Exhibits: The VAC home to three galleries: The Runyan on the main floor, the Coastal Oregon Visual Artists Showcase (COVAS) with Video Archive on the second, and the Upstairs Gallery on third. No matter what level you enter the building a variety of artistic visions await you. Exhibits feature local, regional and national artists. Friendly docents will answer your questions. Free admission. Runyan Gallery is open 11 am-6 pm (April – September) and 11 am -5 pm (October-March). The COVAS and Upstairs gallery open noon - 4 pm, Tuesday though Saturday.

Explore the Arts: Classes are available five days a week through Yaquina Art Association. Drop in for free classes in watercolor, oil, acrylic, hand building with clay, china painting, colored pencil or pastel. Youth Art experiences happen at special times of the year. Visit the OCCA website, coastarts.org for a calendar of events and information about workshops. Call VAC Director at 541-265-6569 for more details.

Photos Courtesy: OCCA

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Newport Performing Arts Center The Venue: The Newport Performing Arts Center (PAC) at 777 W. Olive Street in historic Nye Beach is the premiere performing arts venue on the central Oregon coast with over 180 performances per year. Hear the music. Do you like Classical, Pops, Jazz, Opera and everything in between? Hear it all at the PAC that is home to the 10th international Oregon Coast Jazz Party, Oct 4-6, 2013. Experience the Drama. From musicals, to comedy, to serious drama your can experience it all at the PAC. Enjoy the Dance. From tap, to ballet to modern you will find it here. Thrill to the HD events. View the Films. The PAC is home to the Met Opera Live in HD, National Theatre London Live in HD, Broadway plays in HD, Great Art on Screen and a film series.

National Theater – “This House” 7 p.m. July 5, Newport Performing Arts Center

Porthole Players “Picasso at the Lapin Agile” 7:30 pm, (Matinees @2 pm) July 19-August 11, Newport Performing Arts Center.

Newport Symphony Orchestra – Summer Fest, “10th Annual Community Pops Concert 4 pm, July 4, Newport High School

Red Octopus “Brighton Beach Memoirs”, 7:00 pm, (Matinees@2 pm) September 6 – 22, Newport Performing Arts Center

Newport Symphony Orchestra – Summer Fest featuring “Ferdinand the Bull” narrated by David Ogden Stiers, 2 pm, July 5, Newport Performing Arts Center.

Newport Symphony Orchestra, “Bloch, Wendy and Pictures” 7:30, September 28, 2 pm September 29, Newport Performing Arts Center.

Newport Symphony Orchestra – Summer Fest, “Organ & Strings,” 7:30 pm, July 6, First Presbyterian Church

By Experience: Exhibition – “Manet: Portraying Life” Great Art on Screen, September, TBA Newport Performing Arts Center;

National Theater - The Audience 7 p.m. July 12, Newport Performing Arts Center Just Jazz & Perpetua Jazz – “Summer Night’s Jazz” 7 pm, July 13, Newport Performing Arts Center

By Experience: Exhibition – “Munch 150” Great Art on Screen, October, TBA, Newport Performing Arts Center; By Experience: Exhibition – “Vermeer and Music: The Art of Love and Leisure”

Great Arts on Screen, November, TBA, Newport Performing Arts Center; 10th Annual Oregon Coast Jazz Party Multiple Events October 4-6, Newport Performing Arts Center and Newport Shilo Visit oregoncoastjazzparty.org for details as available Met Opera - Eugene Onegin 10 a.m. October 12, Newport Performing Arts Center Visit the OCCA website, coastarts.org for a calendar of events. Call 541-265-ARTS (2787) for information and tickets. Box office hours: 9 am -5 pm and one hour before performance. Édouard Manet, “The Railway,” 1873, © National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C. Johannes Vermeer, “A Young Woman standing at a Virginal,” about 1670-2 © The National Gallery, London

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Bier One What is the Best Beer? By: Larry Coonrod, News-Times

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sk Bier One owner Luke Simonsen what the best beer is and he just laughs. “Man, I get asked that question all the time,” he says. “The best beer is the one that’s in your hand. It’s whatever you are in the mood for. Sometimes it’s cold and dark and rainy and you want a stout, and sometime it’s nice and summery and you want something refreshing like a Berliner Weisse. And sometimes you just want to try something new.” With 16 taps dispensing a constantly changing lineup of microbrews and 14 years as a brew master, Luke and his wife Chris know something about beer. The couple moved from Salt Lake City three years ago to buy Bier One in Newport’s historic Deco District. They expanded the business from a paltry six taps to 16, greatly increased the home brewing supplies and with a recent 2,000 square-foot expansion made Bier One the go-to gathering spot in downtown Newport. Luke and Chris point out that they do beer three ways: tap, bottle and homebrew. “As far as I know I’m the only home brew shop that you can have a beer at,” Luke says. Bier One buys mostly from Northwest breweries but you are just as likely to find beer from London, Germany or some other distant locale. Customers often bring in samples of beers they’ve discovered and ask the Simonsens to get it on tap. The tap lineup changes weekly, something Chris says upsets some customers who discover a particular favorite, but gives connoisseurs a chance to sample the finest beers. “So many good beers in the world, so little time,” she says with a laugh. “That’s part of the fun. You never know what we’re going to have when you come in. It’s always different.”

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Luke brews offsite, and although he can’t sell his homebrew, he does give away samples. In the next year he plans to have his beer for sale at Bier One. Luke started home brewing out of economic necessity. “I was 20. I had a kid and I needed some beer,” he says. “And I’m the kind of person who when I get into something I’m totally focused and want to perfect it.” Bier One, located at 424 SW Coast Hwy, carries just about every piece of equipment and ingredient needed for beer and winemaking. And customers get the benefit of Luke’s expertise. “I try to spend time with beginner brewers showing and teaching them to make awesome beer,” Luke says. “My goal is for your first batch to be epic so you’ll come back and want to brew more. That’s the whole point, right?” Recently Bier One took over a long vacant space next door, adding pool tables, foosball and more dartboards. With a DJ every other Friday, occasional live bands and a $1 off pints happy hour, Bier One is quickly becoming the place for patrons ranging from young professionals to fishermen. The 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday happy hour packs the house. Bier One’s homey, laid back atmosphere has inspired a devoted following. One customer, a software programmer, built a vote for your favorite tap program running on a flat screen TV. Another customer built the pool table lights. “Our customers are awesome,” says Chris. “We’ve had a lot of support from the community. People came in to help paint with the expansion and lay flooring and just donate time. Without them a lot of this wouldn’t have been able to happen as easily or quickly,” Luke added.

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LEARN

Photo by: Jo Wienert

Photo by: eongdi

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H.M.S.C.

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U.S.C.G.

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Port of Newport

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N.O.A.A.

Photo by: Jo Wienert


Photo by: Jo Wienert


Mysteries of the Deep Revealed at the Hatfield Marine Science Center by Nancy Steinberg

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ver watch an octopus devour a live crab? Want to try your hand at generating electricity with a wave? Have questions about invasive species, underwater earthquakes, deep-sea hydrothermal vents, or local fish species? You can do all this and more at

the Visitor Center of the Mark O. Hatfield Marine Science Center in South Beach. HMSC is a facility of Oregon State University, but its campus is home to scientists from a wide variety of institutions, including OSU, the U.S. Environmental

Protection Agency, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife, the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, and others. All told, approximately 300 scientists, educators, and support staff work at the center, conducting research, outreach, and education programs focused on our watery world. The topics studied there are as diverse as the inhabitants of the sea themselves: salmon genetics, the environmental impacts of wave energy, whale migration patterns, eruptions at undersea volcanoes, effects of ocean acidification on fish, and much more. “Our greatest strength is our focus on collaborative research,” explained HMSC Program Manager Maryann Bozza. “Because scientists from many different organizations are co-located here, there is a lot of interaction that might not happen if they were working at separate facilities.” For example, OSU Assistant Professor Jessica Miller and NOAA Fisheries Scientist Tom Hurst have collaborated on a string of projects focused on the effects of ocean acidification on young fishes. In another building, scientists analyze genetic samples taken from salmon caught by fishermen as part of ProjectCROOS (Collaborative Research on Oregon Ocean Salmon). “It’s inspiring to see ideas, data and equipment shared across disciplines and between

Photos by: Jo Wienert

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agency and university programs. Through professional activities such as weekly seminars and even lunchtime soccer or dogwalking, scientists here keep the lines of communication wide open,” Bozza said. Some of the most high-profile, cutting edge marine science in the world is carried out at Hatfield and by Hatfield-associated researchers. When an enormous dock ripped from its moorings by the March 2011 Japanese tsunami landed on a Newport beach in June 2012, Hatfield scientists Jessica Miller and John Chapman were the ones who took the lead on examining the potentially invasive species on the dock. A piece of that dock now stands as a sentinel and reminder outside the front door of the Visitor Center. Marine Mammal Institute Associate Director Scott Baker has made headlines with his genetics work demonstrating that endangered whale meat was being served in sushi restaurants in Seoul and Los Angeles. His pioneering work was featured in the eco-

thriller/documentary “The Cove,” released to great acclaim in 2009. Some of the center’s research is carried out on its two research vessels, which can occasionally be seen at the OSU Ship Operations dock nearby: the 54-foot Elakha

(“Sea Otter” in the Chinook language), which stays relatively close to shore, and the oceangoing, 177-foot R/V Oceanus. The Oceanus is getting long in the tooth, for a research vessel, and is slated to be replaced within the next ten years. Hatfield scientists don’t just ship out from Newport – they

Hatfield Marine Science Center By the Numbers Years in existence: 48 Number of employees: ~300 Operating Budget: $45 million Number of research vessels: 2 (also connected to HMSC is the R/V Pacific Storm operated by OSU’s Marine Mammal Institute) Scientific publications by HMSC authors in 2011: 160 Number of volunteer hours put in at the HMSC Visitor Center in 2011/12: 9600

Photos by: Jo Wienert

H.M.S.C. continued on page 54 53


H.M.S.C. continued from page 53

Science is Big Business in Newport In addition to the Hatfield Marine Science Center, lots of other scientific entities are headquartered in Newport, making us a hub for ocean research and related activities in the Pacific Northwest. These include:

Marine Operations Center –

Pacific for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Home port to five federal research vessels that serve as platforms for ocean research and mapping activities all over the world.

National Science Foundation’s Ocean Observing Initiative

A cutting-edge array of buoys, cables, and free-swimming underwater vehicles that will record and observe every aspect of the ocean’s biology, physics, and chemistry.

Northwest National Marine Renewable Energy Center

work all over the world, embarking from ports in the Gulf of Mexico, Antarctica, the South Pacific, the Bering Sea, and beyond. The best way to learn about what goes on at HMSC is by checking out the Visitor Center, where most of the exhibits are related to HMSC faculty research. One particularly hot topic is wave energy – how to extract it and what the environmental impacts of wave energy devices in the ocean might be. The wave energy exhibit at the Visitor Center covers these topics with hands-on activities. Another exhibit covers the threat of invasive species, a very real problem for the local coastal ecosystems. The VC also features touch tanks where visitors can be embraced by a sea anemone or stroke a tide pool fish. And of course, there’s the octopus, the mascot of the center that greets visitors as they enter. Check the schedule for her feeding times – it’s quite a show. HMSC doesn’t like to let any data escape, and so even the Visitor Center is a laboratory. Here a team of researchers focused on “freechoice learning,” education that takes place outside of a formal classroom setting and under the student’s own initiative, studies the behaviors and interactions of visitors with the exhibits and with each other. Cameras and other high-tech equipment installed throughout the center aid in those studies, and a cadre of researchers works behind the scenes to learn how we learn. The Visitor Center (2030 SE Marine Science Drive) is open 10 am to 5 pm seven days a week from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Admission is by donation ($5 per person/$20 per family is suggested).

Photo by: Jo Wienert

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This entity, consisting of faculty from Oregon State University and the University of Washington, operates two state-of-the-art wave energy testing facilities offshore of Newport (one is in operation, and one is currently under development).

Oregon Coast Aquarium

The Oregon Coast Aquarium is a worldclass marine educational attraction nestled on beautiful Yaquina Bay, which attracts over 460,000 visitors each year.

Oregon Museum of Science and Industry

This leader in science education recently purchased property in South Beach where they will site a residential education facility focused on programming about the marine environment.

Coast Guard

Coast Guard Station Yaquina Bay’s mission includes search and rescue and maritime law enforcement.


Tranquility on on Yaquina YaquinaBay Bay Tranquility

Recreational Marina With launch ramp, laundry rooms, bathrooms/showers, free WiFi, Fish Cleaning Tables, Fuel Dock, Restaurant, Picnic Area, Public Fishing Pier, Brewery + Marina Store

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U.S.C.G.

United States Coast Guard by Philip Swett

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hile Newport’s maritime industries and heritage are almost taken as a matter of course today, it took considerable effort to make small Yaquina Bay a safe haven for seafarers. First came the Yaquina Bay lighthouse to mark the narrow entrance in 1871, then construction of the substantial north and south jetties in the late 1880s and early 1890s to establish a better channel. Those improved the ability of fishermen and sailors to leave and return to port safely, but could provide no succor in times of maritime distress. That took the establishment of the U.S. Lifesaving Service (a founding component of the U.S. Coast Guard) station in South Beach in 1896. Ever since then, the Coast Guard’s Station Yaquina Bay has played a key role in assisting those in need along this stretch of the central Oregon coast. To keep that in perspective, Bosun’s Mate 1st Class Adam Johnson said the Yaquina Bay bar (the natural deposition of materials at the mouth of the river) is considered the second worst for vessels in the United States, after that off the mouth of the much larger Columbia River. If you need proof, buy a copy of the fundraising video available at the station, you’ll be impressed. Moving from South Beach to the Newport Bayfront, and then to its present location just northeast of the Yaquina Bay Bridge during World War II, Station Yaquina Bay has been providing search and rescue

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services for more than 110 years to those who sail to and from the docks along the lower half a dozen miles of the Yaquina River. Under the current command of Chief Warrant Officer Phil Jackson, the roughly 50 regulars and 12 reservists of the station conduct about 200 search and rescue and/or towing operations annually, from vessels that are lost in fog, out of power or fuel, taking on water, on fire, or that have medical emergencies. In addition, the men and women of the station also conduct marine law enforcement boardings and watch for marine environmental problems. The station coordinates its activities with USCG helicopters stationed out of North Bend, 50 miles to the south, which are regularly seen around the Newport area. To perform its duties, Station Yaquina Bay is homeport to two 47’ motor life boats, both a decade old and capable of speeds in excess of 20 knots, with a towing capacity of 150 tons, and a range of 50 nautical miles; a 25 foot Response Boat Small for harbor and river work; and the aging (1956) but still valuable, 9 knot, 52’ Special Heavy Weather Boat Victory. She has a range of 150 nautical miles, the ability to tow vessels up to 750 tons, and can still handle 35’ seas and 30’ breaking surf, the best of the lot. All but the smallest vessel are self-righting, with everyone aboard strapped in when underway in heavy seas. USCG Station Yaquina Bay is an important part of Newport’s maritime heritage and is open for tours Monday to Friday from 1-3 p.m.


Port of Newport A History

T

he district was formed in 1910 so will soon be celebrating its 100th birthday. Below are the minutes that record that first organizational meeting. As part of the celebration of our first 100 years, Port commissioners and staff ask the community to share with us any history, memories, anecdotes and especially pictures of the Port through the years. We want to include submissions here on our web site so would appreciate receiving them in electronic format. If this is not possible, please bring what you have by the Port Office so it may be scanned and included. Terminal History In 1948, a private company sank two 1940s-era, self-propelled, flatbottom concrete barges at McLean Point to serve as wharves for cargo handling. Prior to sinking the ships, below-water preparation was performed by excavating relatively flat benches. The ship in Berth No. 1 settled on a sloping base and rests with a list toward the bay of about 8 to 9 degrees. The ships were floated into place and sunk by blasting holes in their sides and bottoms. The holes remained open to allow water to fluctuate with the tides. The area between the hull and the shore were backfilled with hydraulically placed dredged sand from Yaquina Bay. Fill material in some of the cargo holds washed out through the blast holes, and subsequently, the holes were closed and a series of 8-inch diameter PVC drainage pipes were installed at approximately 4.5 to 5 ft mean sea level. Additional backfill was added to the holds. The terminal was run by private operators from the 1950s through the late 1970s among them Yaquina Dock & Dredge and Sunset Terminals. In 1982, the Port issued G.O. bonds to purchase the terminal from Rondys Inc. and in 1987 contracted Jones Oregon Stevedoring/Newport Terminal Co. to manage the facility. The contract was terminated in 1995 when the Port took over management. Up until the early to mid 1990s when log exports trickled to a halt, the Newport Terminal was a busy dock, handling shipments of logs and lumber. The last log ship called at the Newport Terminal dock in May of 1999. Port of Newport Mission “Promote and support projects and programs in cooperation with other community organizations and businesses, that will create new jobs and increase community economic development.� Photos by: Jo Wienert

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N.O.A.A.

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration by Terry Dillman

S

cience, research, and their practical applications to everyday life is the foundation of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). NOAA “enriches life through science,” says Jane Lubchenco, the agency’s administrator

Photos courtesy: N.O.A.A.

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since 2009. “Our reach goes from the surface of the sun to the depths of the ocean floor as we work to keep citizens informed about the changing environment around them.”

Scientific foundation NOAA’s history is an integral part of the

history of science and scientific research in the United States. NOAA has existed as an officially designated agency only since 1970, but the three agencies – the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, the U.S. Weather Bureau, and the Bureau of Commercial Fisheries - that, along with other elements, merged to become NOAA are among the federal government’s oldest. Much of the nation’s scientific heritage and legacy lies within those three agencies. NOAA’s genealogy traces back to 1807, when science-oriented President Thomas Jefferson created the Survey of the Coast to provide nautical charts for safe passage along the nation’s coastlines and into the nation’s ports. It provided the foundation for extensive research and information “to enhance the safe and efficient navigation of our nation’s waterways,” according to NOAA’s website (www.noaa.gov). NOAA currently manages the network that provides a common reference and coordinate system for all maps and charts, including position (latitude and longitude), elevation, and distance and direction between points. In 1870, the federal government established the first agency to provide weather observations and warnings within the U.S. Army. The Weather Bureau itself began


in 1890, when Congress transferred those services to the Department of Agriculture. The service evolved in scope and capacity, becoming the National Weather Service in 1970. Today, NOAA is the nation’s primary source of weather data, forecasts and warnings. The fishing industry has played a vital role in the nation’s history since its inception. Formal efforts to protect fisheries started in 1871 with the founding of the U.S. Commission of Fish and Fisheries, charged with protecting “food fishes,” along with scientific studies for managing and protecting marine mammals. In 1882, the USS Albatross became the first government research vessel built exclusively for fisheries and oceanographic research, during three decades of service, Albatross discovered more new marine species than any other research vessel, launching a tradition for NOAA’s current marine research efforts. Today, that research takes place in laboratories throughout the nation, including Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Science Center (HMSC) in Newport’s South Beach district, and aboard the fleet of ships and airplanes operated by the NOAA Commissioned Officer Corps.

home for the Pacific research fleet, responding to the agency’s request for proposals as a longstanding lease at Lake Union in Seattle neared an end. NOAA awarded the bid in August 2009, port officials managed a $38 million, 22-month construction project completed in May 2011, and NOAA signed a 20-year

renewable lease with the port in July 2011.

Moving forward During the competitive lease process, port officials touted Newport as “the best working waterfront on the West Coast,” with its

On a mission “NOAA’s mission touches the lives of every American,” says Lubchenco, who brought an extensive background as a marine ecologist and environmental scientist, and expertise in oceans and climate change to the agency’s leadership position. That mission, which focuses on “science, service and stewardship,” is to understand and predict changes in climate, weather, oceans and coasts, share that knowledge and information with others, and conserve and manage coastal and marine ecosystems and resources. The NOAA Marine Operations Center– Pacific (MOC-P), now based in Yaquina Bay in Newport, plays a central role. It serves as homeport for four of NOAA’s research and survey ships, including its newest vessel Bell M. Shimada; provides administrative, engineering, maintenance and logistical support to the nine-vessel Pacific fleet; and houses the MOC directorate, which oversees both the Pacific and Atlantic marine centers, and all NOAA ship operations. NOAA officials celebrated 200 years of service in 2007 – the same year that the Port of Newport submitted a bid to provide a new Photo by: Jo Wienert

N.O.A.A. continued on page 63 59


N.O.A.A. PACIFIC FLEET HOMPORT NEWPORT, OR

Bell M. Shimada Ship Specifications Length: 208.6 ft Breadth: 49.2 ft Draft: 19.4ft – 29.7ft (Centerboard retracted or extended) Cruising Speed: 14 knots Range: 12,000nm Endurance: 40 days

Hull Number: R227 Call Letters: WTED Officers: 5 Licensed Engineers: 4 Crew: 24 Scientists: 15 Launched: 2008 Commissioned: 2010 Builder: VT Halter Marine, Inc. Moss Point, MS

McArthur II Ship Specifications Length: 224 ft Breadth: 43 ft Draft: 15 ft Cruising Speed: 11 knots Range: 8,000 nm Endurance: 45 days Hull Number: R330 Call Letters: WTEJ Photos & Illustrations courtesy: N.O.A.A.

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Officers: 4 Licensed Engineers: 4 Crew: 23 Scientists: 15 Delivered to Military Sealift Command: 1985 Transferred to NOAA: 2002 Commissioned: 2003 Designer: Maritime Administration Builder: Tacoma Boatbuilding Company Tacoma, WA


Miller Freeman Ship Specifications Length: 215 ft Breadth: 42 ft Draft: 21ft – 33ft (Centerboard retracted or extended) Cruising Speed: 11 knots Range: 12,582nm Endurance: 31 days

Hull Number: R223 Call Letters: WTDM Officers: 7 Licensed Engineers: 4 Crew: 27 Scientists: 11 Launched: 1967 Commissioned: 1974 Designer: Philip F. Spaulding Builder: American Shipbuilding Toledo, OH

Rainier Ship Specifications Length: 231 ft Breadth: 42 ft Draft: 14.3 Cruising Speed: 12.5 knots Range: 5,898 nm Endurance: 22 days Hull Number: S221

Call Letters: WTEf Officers: 12 Licensed Engineers: 4 Crew: 35 Launched: 1967 Commissioned: 1968 Designer: Maritime Administration Builder: Aerojet-General Shipyards, Jacksonville FL

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N.O.A.A. continued from page 59

commercial fishing fleet, U.S. Coast Guard Station Yaquina Bay, and ocean research activities. The NOAA fleet, they said, would not only enhance such research efforts, but would help attract additional marine science ventures, putting Newport’s already considerable marine science profile on a rising tide. The South Beach peninsula where the NOAA MOC-P facility is located is also home to one of the nation’s premier marine research facilities at HMSC, as well as the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Local, state and federal officials believe it could help transform South Beach into an international hub for research and development on ocean health – a key component in climate change. The fleet itself provides floating, mobile platforms for marine science research, collecting data essential to protecting marine mammals, coral reefs and historic shipwrecks, managing commercial marine fish stocks, understanding climate processes, and nautical charting. They also deploy and maintain buoys that gather oceanographic weather information and other data. Their activities also support existing NOAA facilities located at HMSC. The Newport Research Station at HMSC is the only ocean port research facility for NOAA’s Seattle-based Northwest Fisheries

Photo by: Terry Dillman

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Science Center. Located in the heart of Oregon’s groundfish, salmon and other fisheries, the vessels offer support for the 70 scientists and staff who conduct marine science research throughout the Pacific coast region. Capt. Rick Brown, a retired NOAA Corps officer and current program manager at NWFSC at HMSC, says their work depends on those NOAA ships “to support a variety of fisheries and ecosystem-based cruises.” During the field season (spring, summer, autumn – roughly April through October or November), the vessels are almost always out at sea, conducting essential ocean research, fisheries surveys and seafloor mapping. When home, they are highly visible from

many viewpoints, standing out at the facility’s central location in Yaquina Bay that allows them quick, easy access to the ocean, from where they an fan out in any direction for exploration purposes. Former Gov. Ted Kulongoski called the homeport’s construction in Newport “a landmark event for this state,” noting that the ensuing research and development that could evolve from it “will not only put Newport on the map, it will put Oregon on the map.” Folks from Newport, Lincoln County, and throughout Oregon agree, and are going full steam ahead in welcoming NOAA’s considerable presence and personnel to the community.


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