Sept17 tht complete edition by The Huaraz Telegraph

THE HUARAZ TELEGRAPH

ue iss 27 . nr

Founded in 2012

Made in Huaraz

September 2017

It´s true that the title to the right doesn´t tell the whole story. This story began in 1985 with a group of four ambitious young Belgian climbers (Pierre Gobbels, Philippe van Rillaer, Patrick Tinteler and Jean Garcia), who had the intention to summit Mount Huascarán, Peru’s highest peak at 6,768m. During the expedition on Huascarán, Jean Garcia, the father of Thomas Garcia-Cabale, suffered a serious accident while trying to avoid a crevasse. At approximately one hundred metres from the top, the leading member of the expedition, slipped, fell and broke his leg. Thirty-two years later, Thomas, son of Jean Garcia, is back in Huaraz to complete the mission his father and godfather had begun, and also to try to close the chapter of a book that has left deep marks and caused, understandably, many family difficulties during his youth. We met with Thomas in Huaraz.

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Belgian conquers Huascarán 32 years after his father suffered an accident losing both his legs on the same mountain

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¨Huaraz is unfriendly Climbing wall disaster at Rataquenua Lookout Point towards disabled people¨

Jr. San Martin 1213 Huaraz

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Strong winds caused a climbing wall to collapse at the Rataquenua Lookout Point, where a climbing competition was meant to take place the following day. Four climbers were on the wall and fell Pizzaría onto the rooftop of a concrete building. We were the only news Av. Centenario 351 - Independencia medium in our city to report the news whereas local press and organisers acted like the event hadn´t even taken place. Tel: 221542 or 943627749

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Our editor had an interesting conversation with Víctor Ramos Icaza. Engineer Ramos is the son of Víctor Ramos Guardia after whom the local hospital is named. We wanted to know what his father had meant for Huaraz in the past and how Mr. Ramos Icaza had contributed to his legacy. But also, we were wondering how Huaraz treats its disabled citizens; as our interviewee is blind.

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The Editorial

The Huaraz Telegraph freely available! The Huaraz Telegraph is available for free at the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. We do not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral. We have, however, only listed those hostels where our target audience is able to read our paper and thus we are very proud to announce that around 50 lodging services in and around Huaraz are happy to provide their guests with multiple editions of The Huaraz Telegraph.

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

A small insight into some stats and some readers´ feedback Every time an accident happens in the nearby mountains, our website gets visited from all corners of the world. It´s actually sad that this type of news is read more than some of the other interesting content we have on offer; however, this is understandable. Most of our followers have been to Huaraz, probably liked the place, and like to get up to date with what´s going on. Google Analytics gives an interesting insight into which articles or pages are read most by the visitors of our website. Hatun Machay proves to be a very interesting topic this year as three out of the ten most read articles concern the (piteous downfall of the) rock forest. The updates on the road conditions during the first three months of this year also proved to be of much interest. Interestingly, one of the most read articles since the launch of our newspaper is the brichero article we published back in 2012, for which we got into a lot of trouble at the time. In terms of location, the majority of our visitors are web surfers who are located within Peru (46.61%), although this doesn’t mean that these people are Peruvian. Almost a quarter (24.11%) of our visitors are from the United States then follow the United Kingdom, Canada, Australia, and, interestingly Germany. It’s pleasing to see that our web traffic increases every year and although web behaviour is important, so is the feedback we get from readers. This space is too small to share all of the feedback we received this year, so I would like to pick out just one comment we received from a Canadian reader. This particular reader informed us that he picked up our July edition earlier this year in a local hotel and found it very pleasing to read a bit more about the city of Huaraz. It was a big surprise to him that Huaraz offered an English language newspaper. We received a couple of recommendations in terms of layout but also a huge compliment for our content. Although we have only published three printed editions this year, I believe that those were absolutely great editions. It´s sometimes hard to find the right people to interview but the likes of Víctor Rímac Trejo, César Augusto Portocarrero Rodríguez, Tana Mejía, César Morales Arnao and Víctor Ramos (see page 14 of this edition for the article) all proved us right. All had some interesting thoughts and stories to share, and we believe our paper is the right place to provide this space. The last type of feedback we are willing to share in this editorial is about the expat interviews. We have now interviewed 21 expats who are (or were) living in the Huaraz area, and the articles have proved popular with readers. The idea behind the series is to ask our interviewees the same 13 questions every month, but because these people are from different countries, have different backgrounds, are different ages, work in different sectors and have a diverse point of view on life in Huaraz; these articles appear to be very entertaining to read. Please keep sending us your feedback and thanks a bunch for reading us (again)! Best wishes, Rex Broekman (Founder and editor in chief)

Para propietarios de hoteles y hostales en nuestra ciudad: En el caso que hemos excluido su establecimiento, nuestras disculpas. Por favor, póngase en contacto con el Huaraz Telegraph para asegurarse que sea mencionada en la próxima edición de nuestro periódico gratuito. About the editor of The Huaraz Telegraph Rex Broekman (34) was born in the Netherlands and is living in Huaraz since 2007. During this time he has taught English at the Language Centre of the National University of UNASAM, and to psychology, computer information systems´, civil engineering and architecture students at the San Pedro University in Huaraz. He holds a degree in marketing and is about to finish an additional degree in education at the San Marcos University in Lima. Mr. Broekman founded the newspaper in 2012, and since March 2014 he also works as news anchor of the programme El Informativo at channel three (Mon-Fri 7pm) at Cable Andino in Huaraz. Derecho de autor y deposito legal (esp.)

Descargo de responsabilidad (esp.)

Telegraph® es una marca registrada en el INDECOPI. Todos los artículos actuales y anteriores son propiedad y son reclamados por The Huaraz Telegraph y no pueden ser reproducidas por ningún medio sin permiso escrito del Telegraph®. Derecho de autor general sobre todos los contenidos, composición y diseño por The Huaraz Telegraph, Huaraz, Perú - © 2012 – 2017. Hecho el depósito legal: 2013-007727

Nosotros nos sentimos muy orgullosos de comunicar que los artículos publicados son escritos por nosotros o por nuestros lectores. En comparación, existen muchas revistas en circulación en la ciudad y ellas no sobresalen en originalidad porque la gran mayoría de sus artículos vienen de línea recta del internet. Nuestros artículos son originales y con temas interesantes tratamos de llamar la atención del lector. Los textos publicados en The Huaraz Telegraph tienen una finalidad meramente informativa y entretenida. Los artículos publicados en esta edición de ninguna manera tienen la intención de molestar o herir a nadie y simplemente reflejan la opinión de los autores sobre sus experiencias (profesionales) en ciertos eventos, a ciertos comportamientos o hábitos de nuestra sociedad. En el caso que tiene dudas o preguntas, puede dirigirse directamente a nuestro editor.

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017 Adventure sports event ends in tragic disaster as climbing wall collapses, leaving four people hurt. Local press and organisers act like the event didn’t even take place What should have been a weekend of sports, adrenaline and fun, ended in disaster for four people who were helping to set up the climbing event. In cooperation with Club Huascarán, Andes Pedal Club, Montañas Magicas, Amrach Rock, Galaxia Expeditions and Over - Operaciones Verticales, the Municipality of Huaraz organised the Semana del Andinismo y la Aventura Huaraz 2017; however, the climbing event was cancelled a day early without any notification or explanations from the organisers. On Saturday the 2nd of September, strong winds caused a climbing wall to collapse at the Rataquenua Lookout Point above Huaraz, where a climbing competition organised by Over - Operaciones Verticales was meant to take place the following day. According to our reporter, the wall was placed in front of a small concrete building on the hilltop, but it didn’t resist the strong winds and collapsed. At the moment of the disaster, four climbers were on the wall and fell approximately three to ten metres to the rooftop of the concrete building. It is worth noting that these types of accidents are extremely rare, as climbing walls are normally secured well enough to resist any strong winds, and that although it was a windy day, it was nothing out of the ordinary for this time of year. Interestingly enough though, various reporters have been trying to conveniently blame the whole incident on Mother Nature. However, when one analyses the situation, one may come to the conclusion that the structure had neither been put up in the most secure way, nor in the safest location. The people involved in the accident were Vidal Chirihuani from Cusco, a girl called Lin from Huánuco, Julio Anaya Mejia and Cesar Vicuña Pajuelo from Huaraz. At the time of publishing, Cesar Vicuña Pajuelo has left the hospital and appears to suffer from stiff ribs and back problems. On Thursday the 7th, Julio Anaya Mejia was still in the hospital but during a visit of our editor, he was said to be fine and was expected to leave the hospital soon. On the other hand, Vidal Chirihuani had to be taken to Lima because of severe damage to his spinal cord. In Huaraz, people are afraid he may never be able to walk again. Almost five days after the incident, strangely and very worryingly at the same time, neither the Municipality of Huaraz through their Tourism Promotion Office, nor Over - Operaciones Verticales had responded publicly to give explanations about the accident, nor had anyone claimed to be responsible. Even stranger is that Over - Operaciones Verticales´ Facebook page was taken offline right after the accident happened and photos of the accident, which could be found in great numbers right after the accident, are now extremely scarce, which gives the impression that the accident at Rataquenua never happened at all. A day before printing this edition in Lima, we got informed by a follower that the Facebook page of Over - Operaciones Verticales was online again; however, there was no mention, nor any pictures, of the accident at Rataquenua.

Brief News We can only speculate what is the real reason for the organisers to stick their head into the sand. The lack of communication, deliberate or not, seems to have further consequences for the organisation, as the civil organisation Save the Rajus, who is the organiser of the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca, felt obligated to make a public statement on the topic. Save the Rajus declared that they believe that the lack of an official statement from the organisers and the lack of news coverage from the local press - with the exception of The Huaraz Telegraph - have generated public confusion. They want to confirm that the mentioned event is NOT the Festival of Andinismo (which took place in June earlier this year) nor have they been involved in its organisation. Not only the organisers and municipality of Huaraz got slammed by Internet users and climbing fanatics, also the local Peruvian press was blamed for not having covered the event and not mentioning the fate of the injured victims. On the other hand, The Huaraz Telegraph received many messages of praise for being brave enough to be the ONLY news source to speak out and dedicate an article to the topic, despite possible nasty reprisals. This was also recognised by the organiser of the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca, who stated in an online post that we were the only medium to have the facts right. Interestingly, The Huaraz Telegraph obtained a video of the event, thanks to a local reporter who was at Rataquena when the accident happened, and we also received photos from two persons who wish to remain anonymous (which may explain the delicateness of the situation and could possibly question the behaviour of the people involved in the organisation).

A dream place in the heart of the Andes

Also interesting to share are some comments from Facebook users. Marco García stated that these accidents happen because of a lack of evaluation of the situation, and the lack of a job supervisor because it is a high-risk job. Mr. García stated that Peruvian Law 29783 on Occupational Safety and Health at Work perfectly describes what to do and especially, what not to do. Toti Vales, a famous Spanish climber and instructor said to hope for the quick recovery of the injured. Achiq Achik literally blamed the Hererra brothers in charge of Galaxia Expeditions and Over - Operaciones Verticales respectively. Many Facebook users, including Omar Campos Gonzalez and Albert Rosas Leon both questioned the local press and Gladys Jiménez said to understand that the lack of coverage by the local press is questionable; however, being a local resident, not entirely unexpected. One day before printing this edition, our editor received a phone call from Jean Hererra Rodríguez who said to be the representative of Over - Operaciones Verticales. Hererra Rodriguez said in an exclusive interview that it was probably wrong not to have communicated about the accident for such a long time, and that in the forthcoming days, they will make a public statement. He also admitted that Over is taking the responsibility for the hospital costs of Vidal Chirihuani and that they are in constant communication with his parents. Time was too short to include the interview in this edition, but by the time this edition comes out, the article can surely be found on our website. Continue reading on page 17

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Mountaineering

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

Belgian climber summits Huascarán 32 years after his father lost his legs on the same climb

The following story is an emotional and inspiring one that involves a Belgian family. The story begins in 1985 with a group of four ambitious young Belgian climbers (Pierre Gobbels, Philippe van Rillaer, Patrick Tinteler and Jean Garcia), who had the intention to summit Mount Huascarán, Peru’s highest peak at 6,768m. During the expedition on Huascarán, Jean Garcia, the father of Thomas Garcia-Cabale, suffered a serious accident while trying to avoid a crevasse. At approximately one hundred metres from the top, the leading member of the expedition of four, slipped, fell and broke his leg. Consequently, two members of his expedition decided to descend the mountain to get help. Thomas’ injured father and his godfather remained on the mountain for an astonishing three days and two nights at an altitude of approximately 6,600 metres above sea-level. Despite facing many difficulties due to the intense cold, altitude, and lack of food, the two Belgians eventually managed to get off the mountain, and were taken to Lima for medical help. Sadly, due to complications, doctors had to amputate both legs of Thomas’ father and ten toes of his godfather. Thirty-two years later, Thomas, son of Jean Garcia, is back in Huaraz to complete the mission his father and godfather had begun, and also to try to close the chapter of a book that has left deep marks and caused, understandably, many family difficulties during his youth. We met with Thomas in Huaraz prior to and after his expedition to Mount Huascarán and are happy to share his life (changing) story. A story with a happy ending. Thomas, please tell us briefly what happened 32 years ago with your father and godfather on Mount Huascarán and what this has to do with you being here in Huaraz at the moment I hope to finish the adventure my father and godfather started back in 1985. I hope to summit Huascarán later this month. In that year, back in ´85, my father suffered a terrible accident in the mountains where he first broke his leg due to a fall, and later had both legs amputated due to complications. My father was leading a four-membered group and leading the rope; he slipped and broke his leg. As there were no helicopters at that time (incredibly there still aren´t in 2017), two team members decided to descend and get help. My father stayed with my godfather for three days near the summit, and they

lost about 15 kilograms each due to the lack of food. They eventually managed to descend from Huascarán and were taken to Lima for medical care. However, given that their insurance Europe Assistance was based in Belgium, they had to be flown to Belgium to get operated on. Sadly, on the 10th of July of 1985, doctors had to amputate both of my father’s legs, whereas my godfather had his ten toes amputated. My father was only 23 years old and my godfather 21 at the time. At the moment of speaking, I am 23 years old too. I am here in Huaraz because I hope to conquer Mount Huascarán, but mainly, to understand what happened to them 32 years ago. As you can imagine, when you´re only 23 years old, an accident like that changes your life. Not only your personal life, but also the lives

The Huaraz Telegraph The local press in Belgium also picked up the story of Jean and Thomas prior to his trip

of your wife and children. It´s important to me to understand what happened at approximately 6,600 metres above sealevel. These were difficult times; however, my father has always been a sporty person and years after his accident, he started to practice sports such as cycling and water sports.

The Huaraz Telegraph Belgian team including Pierre Gobbels, Philippe van Rillaer, Patrick Tinteler and Jean García (third from the left) before their expedition in 1985

I was born when my father was 27 years old and although the first couple of years were more or less fine, as my father received a lot of help from friends and family, later on depression set in. Understandably, losing both your legs has a huge impact on your life. This depression led to alcoholism and a lot of family troubles, as you will understand. My father is aware of the fact that I will attempt Huascarán and he thinks that I am crazy. However, he told me he understands my reasons for doing it. My father loved the mountains, and so do I. As far as I can remember, the mountains have always attracted me and since I became aware of my father´s accident, I have always wanted to climb Huascarán. I would call it a life dream. I was in South America in 2015 and I climbed Mount Urus and Ishinca that year; apart from that I had previously summited a couple of mountains in France. I can´t recall the exact moment I told my dad that I wanted to conquer Huascarán, but I am sure he knew it many years back. I guess this year, just after I bought my plane ticket for Peru, it got confirmed officially, it became a reality. How have you prepared yourself for climbing Mount Huascarán, Thomas?

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017 Well, I had to do two types of preparations, the physical one and the mental one. Climbing a mountain is hard and requires a strong mind. Additionally, I did a lot of training - cycling, swimming and rock climbing. I arrived on the 5th of July in Peru and on the 6th in Huaraz. I first did a couple of day hikes to get adjusted to the altitude. Since I had completed the Huayhuash Trek back in 2015, this time I did the Santa Cruz Trek, it was enjoyable. I also climbed Mount Vallunaraju on the 13th of July and took a couple of days of rest and then went on to climb Mount Yanapaccha. Lately I have been suffering from a cold, but next Monday we will start the last preparation for Huascarán as I hope to conquer Mount Chopicalqui, my first 6000m+ mountain. My flight back to Belgium from Lima is on the 23rd of August so I believe there is sufficient time to make it. All this will hopefully become a moment of magic for me, reaching the top of Mount Huascarán South is not the ultimate goal itself, it´s also about the experience and my father´s past. I will go with a few friends I met here in Huaraz. I told them about my project and the three of them liked it a lot, so we´ll go together. Do you feel ready? Well, in the mountains you´re never ready. It depends on many factors like your mindset, for example. You´re not at home in your backyard, you´re in a remote area and nature is always stronger than mankind. So, with calm and patience we hope to make it. There´s four of us, like on my father´s expedition, although two are from France and one is from Switzerland. We will use no guides and head for the normal route. We will take decisions as a group and it will depend on the moment, it´s not a race. We will be careful. I am not sure yet whether I will call my father prior to heading for Peru´s highest mountain. Maybe I should call him when I get back. I don´t want to make him worried, on the other hand, I don´t want to think about my father all the time either. This might sound a bit selfish but I hope to enjoy the moment. Enjoy the moment that 32 years after my father I am doing the same thing and at almost the same moment. My father is 57 years old now and like I said before, I hope to make it to the top, although this is not the most important thing. I hope to feel what he felt, it´s more than just a mountain for me, Huascarán is a mountain that has changed my father´s life, but also mine. I´ll probably cry when I manage to make it to the top. I´ll try to breathe and I hope to lose that huge weight I have been carrying for 23 years. It will be the highest mountain I have ever conquered so it will not be easy. After the first part of the interview, Thomas showed us some pictures of his father´s expedition and the accident and informed us that his father currently

Mountaineering has leg prostheses and is, according to Thomas´ explanations, lucky to be in Belgium. According to Thomas, the prostheses have to be changed every five years, but people not knowing about the accident will not notice that he has no legs. Thomas furthermore showed us his father´s original ice axe and said that it would be a dream to put the original tool in the ice as a symbol and memory. We wished Thomas all the best of luck in the world and left.

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We met an emotional Thomas two weeks later after his successful expedition to Mount Huascaran. Well Thomas, we´re back, please tell us how everything went It went all very well, it was a great expedition. We ended up going on the 9th of August and returned to Huaraz on the 14th, I believe. We were very lucky with the weather as there was almost no wind. On the first day, we went from the village of Musho to the Refugio Huascarán at base camp at 4700m. In the end, there were just three of us - Thibauld from France, Vladimir from Switzerland and me. It was particularly tough because each one of us was carrying about 25 kilos on our backs, as we didn’t use any porters to help us. At the Refugio Huascarán we were able to leave behind a bit of weight and eat properly. We left early to get to the first high camp (Camp 1 on the glacier) early at around 7 or 8 in the morning. We then stayed the whole day at that camp. The part of the climb between the first and second high camps is the trickiest and most dangerous. It was a bit cold but a full moon created a fantastic spectacle at night. What´s also interesting are the dates of our climb. We conquered Huascarán during the night between the 11th and the 12th of August. I celebrated my birthday on the 11th and on the 12th is my mother’s birthday. I haven’t mentioned this before but she passed away in 2011. I felt strongly emotional, but the ascent was great. You can see the top from really far away and because of this, you´re actually able to enjoy it, as you know nothing can come in between you and the summit. I think that 150 metres from the real summit, I started crying. I was thinking a lot, about my father, my godfather and everything that had happened. I think I felt a whole bunch of emotions like happiness, sadness and maybe also anger. But above all, I felt that a huge pressure had left my body. Something I carried with me all my life had now floated away. Actually, we almost did not make it because Thibault from France felt ill at around 200 metres from the top, but thanks to a last and great effort, he was able to make it. It was an emotional moment for the three of us. There were in fact four of us who made it to the top Continue reading on page 6

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Mountaineering

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017 you three stiches, would you say that Huascarán South is doable without the use of a professional mountain guide and would the experience of ascending a mountain be different with or with a guide?

Continuation of page 5

together in the end because at the second high camp, we met a German guy called Steffen, who was climbing on his own and he joined our group as his partner stayed behind in the refuge. The way down was quite difficult because it was long, especially because I felt tired and emotionally affected. I guess that a lack of concentration caused a small incident. Getting to the top is only the first part, getting off the mountain is just as important. Like I said, the way down was hard. On the way down, I felt happy, but maybe not that confident. We descended quickly and efficiently from Camp 2 to Camp 1, and once off the glacier during the early morning hours, some of the little streams were frozen. I don’t know why but I slipped and fell eight metres downwards. This explains the three stitches near my eyebrow. But I am absolutely fine, no headache or anything. Apart from the stitches, how do you feel? Honestly, I don´t know. My knee hurts a bit because of the fall but… I have no conscience at the moment. I guess that my real emotion will show up when I land in Belgium and get picked up by my father and godfather from the airport. I have called my father on returning from Huascarán and we both cried. He was delighted. I also told him I put his ice axe in the air and we can now hang it on the wall. It has completed its mission. I won´t stop climbing though, after conquering Huascarán perhaps I won’t be climbing such high mountains, but more technical ones. Maybe the most emotional moment was between Camp 1 and Camp 2 because I

The Huaraz Telegraph Thomas and his father together holding the ice axe above their heads. The axe made it back to Belgium after both have used it during their expedition

realised that I was finally where I wanted to be. I was thinking all the time about my dad. The 150 metres towards the top were also emotional and the moment that I could put my father´s axe in the ice on the top. I feel relieved now you know; a huge pressure has fallen off my shoulders. It´s not about closing a book, but more about finishing a chapter that has dominated about 15 years of my life. I will have to sit down with my father and godfather and talk about our experiences, with a couple of beers maybe. I am sure my mother

watched and guided me from above. As you might have been informed, this year three mountaineers lost their lives in the Cordillera Blanca. In town, these three unfortunate foreign climbers were heavily criticized (mostly and as per usual by members of the Casa de Guias) for having taken the decision to ascend a mountain without the use of a professional guide. You´re not a professional climber, have limited experience and have now ascended the highest mountain of Peru without a guide. Despite a small fall which cost

The Huaraz Telegraph Thomas Garcia-Cabale from Marchin (Liège) in Belgium smiling while somewhere in the mountains

Well, for me personally, climbing a mountain should be done without a guide. When you´re with a guide, you cannot make your own decisions. This would be something I would not like. As there is no helicopter rescue service available in this area, ascending a mountain here is doing pure mountaineering, there is no easy escape if you get in trouble. It´s true that you might fall or have an accident and might eventually die. I guess that this makes it interesting too; it gives you something to think about, it forces you to concentrate much more. With the use of a guide, you might feel safer and have a person on your side. However, it wouldn’t be the same because part of the adventure is taking your own decisions and setting up your tent, for example. It would not be the same sport if you got to a point somewhere, guided, with your stuff carried and your food prepared by a person who has done it a million times before; this is not real mountaineering, it is assisted climbing, there is a big difference between the two. I guess, I wanted to do it on my own as a mountaineer, not as a tourist, but this is just my point of view on mountaineering. I believe every person has its goals and ideas on mountaineering and also some are prepared to take more risks than others. Bear in mind that although I might not be the most experienced mountaineer in the world, I have trained for many years for this expedition and I believe that preparation is key. Mentally I was prepared for it, so was I physically. I believe that luck might be a factor as well; however, an important part of mountaineering is also about planning. There are always risks, but I believe that if I hadn’t been able to summit Mount Huascarán, it would have been due to uncontrollable factors, such as weather or getting ill. Failing because of lack of preparation, such as insufficient fitness or acclimatisation, or material failure was out of the question for me. Some people get to Huaraz, as I have seen in my hostel many times, and get sick from altitude sickness. They aren’t even aware of the fact that Huaraz is located at 3,000 metres above sea-level. At the moment of publishing this September edition, Thomas has made it back to Belgium and celebrated his summit with his loved ones. We feel very happy for Thomas and additionally owe thanks to Marie Timmermans of agency Quechuandes who tipped us and set up the contact with her fellow countryman from Marchin (Liège) in Belgium.

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

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Expat in Áncash

The Peruvian dream

According to the National Institute of Statistics and Informatics (I.N.E.I) 12,187 foreigners entered Peru in 2012 and stayed for over a year. The Huaraz Telegraph is wondering whether these visitors came to see the wonders of Peru, or were they looking for the Peruvian dream? If the American dream is the idea that success is possible for every individual, does the Peruvian dream exist? And if so, can you reach for those ideals on the Latin American continent being an expat? It is fairly easy to spot a tourist in Hua- a year, after one year gringos are considraz, with their tiny day-sacks and camera ered immigrants in the Republic of Peru, around their necks, whereas expats blend be it legal or illegal. in; they adapt to the local way of life. But what motivates a person to uproot their en- There is no denying that the number of tire lives, and leave their family and friends immigrants has increased over the years to go and live on another continent? Over and between 2007 and 2012 there were the course of the season The Huaraz Tele- 55,616 immigrants representing 62.3% of graph will endeavour to interview expats all registered immigrants in the analysis living in Huaraz, to give the readers an period of 1994 to 2012. To make a small insight into why they decided to do just comparison, in the last six years measured that. But first let’s look at some interesting concern over 50.0% of the immigrants statistics. Although the following national from the period of analysis. The period bestats are accurate there is no statistical in- tween the years 2001 – 2006 represented formation on how many foreigners live in 18,499 incoming foreigners representing the Áncash region. 20.7% of all registered immigrants during the study period, while the years 1994 to In the period from 1994 to 2012, there 2000 represent 17.0% of total registered were 89,320 registered foreigners resid- immigrants. The number of foreign immiing in Peru that did not leave the country. grants in Peru has a greater dynamism Between 1994 and 2004 the number of in the last years of the study. Until 2003 foreigners entering Peru did not exceed foreign immigrants did not exceed 20,000, 3,500, and between 2004 and 2006 the this number doubles in 2007 becoming number of foreigners living in Peru did 40,446, and in 2012 the number of foreign not exceed 5000. From 2007 the number immigrants in Peru rose to 89,320. increased to over 6,000 and in 2012 that number had risen to a staggering 12,187. Dividing the entry of foreign immigrants It´s important to mention that, even though into different periods (in years) and having Peru has a law stating that visitors can the estadisticas de la emigración internationly stay up to a maximum of 183 days cional de peruanos e inmigración de ex-

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

tranjeros 1990-2012 in hand, one can see that the average annual immigration per period is becoming a growing trend during the last three periods, except from 2001 to 2003. On average, only 2,357 people crossed the border into Peru between 2001 and 2003. Between 1994 and 2012 the annual average is 4,701 surpassing this in the last two periods 2007-2009 and 2010-2012, reaching average immigration figures from 7,420 and 11,118 respectively, the latter being six times higher than the average income of foreign immigrants of the first period (1994-1997). When analysing the gender of the newcomers it´s remarkable that the population of males is by far bigger than the opposite sex. Men represent 66.8% of the immigrants while only 29,636 (33.2%) are female. Since 1994, men have represented more than 60% of the immigration population, but in 2012 they reached 70.9%. In the document found on the I.N.E.I website the distribution of foreign migrants is also represented by age group. A chart shows that the predominant age group is the 30 to 34 year-olds representing 12.2 % of all immigrants. Immigrants from 35 to 39 years of age characterise 12.1 % during the period from 1994 to 2012. This is followed by the 40 to 44 years old with 11.2%, continued by the group of 25 – 29 years old (10.7%). On the other hand, the highest percentage of immigrants are aged from 15 to 49, representing 68.2 % of all immigrants. Looking at the gender population pyramid, the concentration is in the middle, being narrower at the base and that there is an increase in the first and last group. Immi-

grants aged under 15 count for 6.8% and are distributed almost evenly between men (3.7 %) and women (3.1%). People older than 59 years of age represent 10.3% and are distributed between 6.3% men and 4.0% women. Of the total number of 83,628 immigrants over 14 years of age, 33.7% are declared to be single whereas 199 people are said to be widowed, and 98 are divorced. Between 1994 and 2012, 89,320 foreigners were considered to be new residents of Peru without any migration movement noticed and just before the document starts to talk about the country of origin, it mentions that 69,277 people (representing 77.6%) have come to Peru by air, entering the country at Jorge Chavez National Airport. A small 8.6% entered from the south in Tacna (Santa Rosa), 2.3% from Bolivia (Desaguadero), and a 1.4% came from the north, crossing the border from Ecuador at Aguas Verdes. A total of 3,378 (3.7%) arrived at the harbour of Callao (probably shipwrecked and unable to return home). The authors of the report declare that there exists a strong concentration of regional immigrants referring to 31.6% of foreigners coming from Latin American countries such as Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. Americans (from the USA) with 12.4% are the biggest group of newcomers, followed by the Chinese with 9.3% and Bolivians with 7.8%. As you just have read, you will need to stay in Peru for over a year to qualify for the status of immigrant. This is also the main condition for our interviewee plus the fact that he or she should live in Áncash. In our twenty-first version of the Peruvian Dream we have interviewed an American who has been living continually in Carhuaz since 1998, but first visited the area in 1984 as an undergraduate student (see page 21 for more info). Our interviewee kindly invites readers to get in touch with her or to visit her ranch La Casa de Pocha in Carhuaz. 1. Who are you? I was born in Indiana, named Patricia Jean Hammer, and grew up in Evanston, Illinois. My father was a clinical psychologist on the psych ward of the Veterans Hospital downtown Chicago for 25 years. My mother was a primary school teacher and counselor, who was enthralled by history and had really wanted to be an archaeologist. My parents met at Queens College in the 1940s, both third generation New Yorkers. 2. What’s your profession and how old are you Patricia?

All statistics on Peruvian international emigration and foreign immigation by the I.N.E.I on: http://www.inei.gob.pe/media/MenuRecursivo/publicaciones_digitales/Est/Lib1102/libro.pdf

I came into the world in 1956, a good year for chevys, studied music, English and Spanish literature for several years until I discovered anthropology, which happily Continue reading on page 10

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

Advertorial/Publirreportaje

Heinrich Bosshard is in his sixties and a heavy equipment mechanic, but in Huaraz he is known at El Tío Enrique. El Tio Enrique is a brand-new establishment selling all sorts of different chorizos (sausages), Swiss chocolates, authentic Swiss knives and Glühwein (mulled wine). His huge and fantastic fridge filled with imported European beers make Enrique´s secondfloor place a must visit after you have conquered some peaks in the Andes. El Tío Enrique is open from 5p.m. and offers you a whole variety of Belgian, German, English and even Peruvian beers, such as London Pride, Old Speckled Hen, Paulaner, Erdinger, La Guillotine, Duvel, and Lima´s craft beer Barbarian. Check our beer list on the right-hand side of this page and make sure you come and try those malt liquors that are specially imported for tourists in Huaraz.

The specialty of the former titleholder of the former Monte Rosa Inca Pub is without a doubt his delicious sausages but, there is a lot more on offer. Another dish not to miss is Argentine beef. Those wanting something lighter before boarding their bus could choose the antipasto. Antipasto literally means “before the meal”, and is the traditional first course of a formal Italian meal. The dish served at El Tio Enrique includes cured meats, olives, fresh cheese and sausages.

such as Disaronno Originale (28% abv), which is made in Italy. It is amaretto-flavored, with a characteristic bittersweet almond taste. How about Jägermeister? This is a German digestif made with 56 herbs and spices and is 35% alcohol by volume. For those who prefer nonalcoholic beverages, there is also coffee, tea, cappuccino and espresso coffee. El Tío Enrique recommends in every edition two exclusively imported foreign beers. The two beers you will find at the bottom of this page however are not in the list that is on the right hand side of the page. These are two new beers that are just recently available in Huaraz. Take your changes because if you´re going north after Huaraz, there is no other place in Peru where you can find such an exclusive artisanal of beers. Sláinte!

El Tío Enrique is located only two blocks from bus companies such as Línea Transportes and Cruz del Sur, and is around the corner from Nova Plaza. The central location makes it a convenient stop during a night out at the surrounding discothèques or bars. While enjoying your beer, don’t forget to ask about Carne seca (dried meat, in Spanish), which is a kind of dried beef and ideal to take with you while heading out for the mountains. When you meet Elena, ask her about her pudding desserts, absolutely sweet and recommended after a cheese fondue, for In terms of drinks, apart from a spectacular beer menu, example. There is also literature for visitors. the second-floor establishment offers different Chilean, Argentinian and Peruvian wines, but the specialty of the Make sure you´re hungry and thirsty when house is Glühwein (mulled wine). Also worth a shot (or a visiting us and we´ll make sure that you will have a wonderfull evening at a very special place. glass in this case) are some specially imported liqueurs

It was in 1966 that Brother Théodore created the ‘capsule blanche’, now better known under the name of Chimay Triple. In contrast to the dark Chimay Rouge and Chimay Bleue, the ‘white Chimay’ presents a dry and hoppy character.

A golden blond, multigrain beer with a very persistent, lacing head, complex smell, with a citrus aroma, followed by hop aromas such as Saaz, Brewers Gold and Amarillo. La Guillotine is created by Brewery Huyghe. Try it!

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Expat in Áncash

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017 tranquility and lack of traffic is a blessing, too. Also, the temperate climate – at 2600 above sea-level (8900 feet) we have all kinds of luscious fruit trees in our garden such as chirimoya, lucma, all kinds of citrus - oranges, tangerines, lemons and limes, even avocado and banana trees! It is remarkably warmer here than in Huaraz. And of course we have incomparable views of the snow peaks Hualcán, Huascarán and the Cordillera Blanca looking south. The water quality is outstanding, too. On the other hand, I don’t tolerate Huaraz at all – too noisy, disordered, lack of greenery, lack of personality, and a bit too cold which goes with the markedly higher altitude.

Continuation of page 8

combined all my interests with the additional element of international travel. I am an Applied Medical anthropologist, as well as a university professor. I teach Social Policy in the graduate school at the local state university (UNASAM) in Huaraz. I also direct a field training school for international students in Carhuaz. 3. How long have you been living in Carhuaz? I’ve been living continually in Carhuaz since 1998, but first visited in 1984 as an undergraduate student. In 2000 I joined with Peru’s forerunner Ecologist, Pocha Barreto, to found the civic association, The Center for Social Well Being (www. socialwellbeing.org) to teach and orient students and the general public on themes of Andean ecology, society, culture and the environment. We receive students and visitors for intensive seminars, as well as interested local community members who are particularly interested in regaining organic farming practices and learning about alternative energy, how to minimize contamination of the environment. 4. What brought you to the Carhuaz area? The truth is that the mountains beckoned me here…Initially I came to Peru from the University of California, San Diego, to study Spanish Literature and Anthropology. Before arriving I did some reading of Andean ethnographies, saw the photos of the magnificent mountain peaks of the Cordillera Blanca and was instantly inspired to find my way here. On my first day of Anthropology class in Lima with Prof. Juan Ossio (Peru’s first Minister of Culture), I told him I’d like to know this region to have my first attempt at field observations. He carefully explained to me the need to have preliminary contacts in order to be introduced to highland communities and therefore put me in touch with a group of British and US linguists studying the amazing variations of Huaylas Quechua language. I had just arrived in Peru, and within 10 days I was up here and delivered to the community of Shilla, nestled along the road up to the Quebrada Ulta, under the vast presence of Peru’s highest peak, Huascaran. 5. How has your life changed over the years? Well, life certainly is change, that’s an invariable constant. Although I initially began my field research in Carhuaz, it took me more than a decade to be able to establish myself here. In the late 1980s the Sierra was unsafe, seized with civil strife, so I ended up doing my doctoral field work in Bolivia. As I was writing up my dissertation, I was contacted by a Peruvian feminist organization, Movimiento Manuela Ramos, who hired me as a consultant to develop a community participatory research instru-

9. What’s your opinion of the tourist business in the Huaraz area? The number of immigrants in Peru is growing by the year (I.N.E.I. stats)

ment to explore women’s reproductive and sexual health. That began a series of consultancies for me throughout the country, but it took a while for me to actually settle here in Carhuaz. The Callejón de Huaylas is not one of the poorer regions of Peru and many of my initials jobs were in Ayacucho, Huancavelica, Puno, Cuzco, parts of the lowland jungle, etc.

Mexican food! I also miss seeing friends and family. I was last back in the NorthWest US in 2016 and it was nice to see how my siblings and nieces and nephews are creating their lifestyles in that strange, too often, violent society.

Living in Carhuaz at La Casa de Pocha I’ve been able to dedicate my efforts to local issues, and teach at the UNASAM, where I learn a great amount from my students – who are all professionals responsible for implementing government social programs, some have even been town mayors.

About Carhuaz – I appreciate the small town atmosphere, to be able to drop in on friends and acquaintances informally and converse. Carhuacinos are enthusiastic and proud of their heritage, not embarrassed to speak Quechua and analyze cultural traditions and concepts. The

8. What is it you like most about Huaraz and Carhuaz?

Unfortunately, it’s unorganised and unreliable. It has taken me several decades to find consistently reliable guides (of all kinds), or legitimate transport companies. As far as lodging and food there are few places to recommend throughout both the Callejón de Huaylas and the Valley of Conchucos, which is a shame. Of course, I’m biased and live at La Casa de Pocha just above Carhuaz, which I consider the only authentic EcoLodge in the country – a completely organic ranch for nearly 40 years, all built with materials on site – wood and adobe (hundreds of trees planted by Pocha), the farm is run on alternative energy systems, is perfectly peaceful and situated with stunning views of the mountains and River Chucchun.

6. What are your favourite hangout spots? Well, when I do have down time the best place is around the ranch, doing yoga or dancing in the yoga salon, reading in the library, relaxing in the sauna, followed by a swim in the pool, or really just hanging out in one of the hammocks. Carhuaz, certainly in and around the plaza which is filled with flowers, palm trees and ice cream shops, is a great place to run into old friends and catch up. The extraordinary local market is also a wonderful place to spend time and learn about agrobiodiversity – the incredible range of varieties of fruits, vegetables and root crops for sale and trade. The sellers enjoy conversing about medicinal and fortifying properties of herbs and foods from local farms. Traditional food and limitless native ingredients are a real draw for me, I can’t imagine living any place without year round papaya, avocados, all the kinds of passion fruit, and of course – the stimulating coca leaf and cacao. 7. What is it you miss the most from back home? The only thing I occasionally miss is…

The Huaraz Telegraph Patricia Hammer (standing in the middle of the photo) with a couple of local friends

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

Expat in Áncash

10. What sites or activities do you reccommend (or not) to our readers?

12. Are you living the Peruvian dream (explain)?

Some of the nicest things to do in the Callejón are hikes and visits to the various hot springs, and high mountain lakes, each with different mineral and healing quality to revitalize the soul and body. Archaeological sites are always captivating, particularly Chavin, Wilcahuaín as well as some of the lesser known places such as Honcopampa, which should be visited with an informed guide; archaeologist Steven Wegner is the expert and can be located through the Regional Museum on the plaza of Huaraz.

Rather, I would say that I’m living the Peruvian “reality.” When you first enter an unknown sphere everything seems exotic and enchanting, or strange and baffling. However, as time goes on you engage with the ongoing required and desired circumstances and become part of it all, or in some cases a counter voice to accepted conditions. I like to point out that if you take the freedom to simply do what you are interested in or compelled to do and do it well, people will seek you out and find a useful place for you in society. Basically, that’s what occurred here in La Casa de Pocha – often people were knocking on the gate curious about alternative energy, living and lifestyles or requesting help with their field research, so we created the Center for Social Well Being to hold classes and respond to expressed needs. Similarly, I teach at the university in Huaraz because in 2004 a committee of students sought me out and invited me to dictate classes on Social Policy in the graduate school. What I like about Peru is the value on human interaction, face to face communication, respect and consideration. What I find to be a “dream” or really a “fiction” is the overall modern world and society in countries in the northern hemisphere that are so far removed from nature and have lost the richness of social and environmental relationships.

“

What I like about

Peru is the value on human interaction, face to face communication, respect and consideration. What I find to be a “dream” or really a “fiction” is the overall modern world and society in countries in the northern hemisphere that are so far removed from nature and have lost the richness of social and environmental relationships Patricia Jean Hammer on Peru

11. If you were to become the Mayor of Huaraz or Carhuaz one day, what would you do or change? I would take the opportunity to demonstrate all that is possible to get done with accountability, what they call “transparency” here, referring to the absence of corruption. I would work to include the participation of citizens every step of the way which is both challenging and rewarding. Notions of inclusion and transparency would reign, and I would like to show how much could be accomplished on the truly existing Provincial budget of Carhuaz, focusing on the “how” – the methodology of open community consensus in establishing priorities for the town. I’d probably be assassinated or run out of town immediately.

13. How do you see your future in Peru? Well, here at La Casa de Pocha we’re maturing towards a transition and looking for people who appreciate an organic, chemical free environment in a setting of rural tranquility. More and more young people are dropping in to lend a hand with daily chores on the ranch, and we’re hoping some will stay on to create an Intentional Community and continue with the endeavors that we’ve set in motion over the years – the lodge, gardens, orchards, community work and field training. As well as simply enjoying the place – sauna, yoga room, swimming pools, chimney and billiard lounge, etc. We’re open to selling parcels of land to conscientious groups or individuals seeking peace with the earth, or perhaps creating a land trust to conserve the ecological ranch. As for myself personally, you’ll continue to see me around here for many years to come, donned in one of my many Andean hats, woven poncho and wooden walking stick, greeting everyone in Quechua and paying loving tribute to the mountain spirits who after all, summoned me here in the first place. Feel free to get in touch if you’d like to visit us: phammer@wayna.rcp.net.pe; lacasadepocha@yahoo.com or visit the website www.socialwellbeing.org

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Interview

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

¨Huaraz is not very friendly towards disabled people¨ The Huaraz Telegraph spoke with Victor Alfonso Ramos Icaza (67), who is the son of Víctor Ramos Guardia (1901-1992) after whom the local hospital is named. Mr. Ramos was born in Huaraz and is an electronical engineer by trade, although he is also a social communicator and despite being fully blind, he still successfully conducts two live radio programmes in Huaraz, which are aimed at disabled people in Huaraz and the Callejón de Huaylas. Additionally, Mr. Ramos is a diabetes patient who since the age of 11 had to take a daily shot of insulin, but this has never stopped him making radio. During the interview, we noticed that Mr. Ramos, despite having lost his sight, is one of the most positive people we´ve ever met and is still a very active member of Huaraz society. As we were about to ask our first question, Mr. Ramos received a phone call from a student who needed his help. After he hung up, he informed us enthusiastically about a project he is working on. The phone call you just overheard is an interesting project we´re working on with the Health Directorate of Ancash (Dirección Regional de Salud de Áncash). We´re trying to make outdated radios work again, so that they can be used as emergency radios. The problem here is that there is no budget available, so the people of the Health Directorate need to be creative. For instance, if they would want to buy a new antenna, this would probably cost them 800 soles, which is a lot of money. So what I am trying to do, being an amateur radio-maker, is teach them how they can create their own practical emergency antennas. The idea behind this is to set up emergency contact points in the Callejón de Huaylas. Another interesting project I am involved in is with the Radio Club Peruano (Peruvian Radio Club), which encourages volunteers and amateurs to run emergency stations. This project will hopefully result in a workshop together with the Peruvian Red Cross and the Fire Department; it should lead to a network of emergency stations. In 1970, for example, shortly after the earthquake, there was no Provincial Platform for Civil Defense in our city. However, thanks to many amateur radio makers, we were able to set up an emergency network. Even nowadays, a radio emergency system could be very useful in tourism and mountaineering for example. It would be a great help. Let me tell you that we have once rescued five Spaniards thanks to an old radio. One day, a person from

The Huaraz Telegraph

Engineer Ramos can find his ´toys´ with his eyes closed and still spends many weekly hours on his favourite hobby Spain knocked on my door, he was desperately asking for the frequency we, amateur radio makers, were using. An accident had happened on Mount Huascarán and thanks to the fact that the mountaineers carried a small hand radio, we were able to locate them. I believe that this was back in 2001 or 2002. In the area, there was no phone network available but our radio repeater caught the signal of the distressed mountaineers. Without this, they would have been unable to get down as they were caught in an avalanche and would probably have died because of the low temperatures.

society and the authorities to commit themselves. At the moment, in accordance with the Provincial Municipality of Huaraz, we are running a small massage centre for disable people in the Cultural Centre. It´s maybe not really comfortable to offer this service on the third floor, but anyway, it´s a start and at the moment we actually have three blind people working there. We also have a small kiosk in front of the Municipality, where we sell some food and snacks. In the kiosk, we have two people working who, with help from their family, are able to make a couple of soles.

I like making radio very much. I still have two programmes on Saturday; one is on Quasar Radio, which is also transmitted live on local T.V. The other programme is on Radio Áncash. The advantage is that thanks to the T.V. stream, this programme reaches the whole Callejón de Huaylas, whereas the programme on Radio Áncash is transmitted on long wave, reaching mainly the rural area of Huaraz. Just like you, I also have my target audience. The message of my programmes is directed to disabled people. We do short interviews and like to demonstrate how we can help these people. The worst thing that can happen to a disabled person is holding up his hands; begging. It is much healthier to teach this person to be self-sufficient and offer him an opportunity to work. We try to explain to disabled people, but mainly to their families, that this is possible. However, we need

I am an active member of the Association of Blind and Low Vision people (Asociación de Personas Ciegas y de Baja Visión Huaraz, (ACYBVISION)) where we help mainly people from 20 years of age. Understand that Peru has special schools for disabled or handicapped children and youngsters, but what happens to adults who, due to an accident for example, lose their eyesight? We need to make these people aware that they need to be active members of society. When I lost my vision in 2002 or 2003, it had a huge impact on my life. I became a disabled person and for example, had to close my radio broadcast businesses. It became very hard to handle the radio equipment properly and well, but not impossible! I donated most of the stuff to the community and am happy to still broadcast some programmes. I still work

as a consultor and your boss (the editor of The Huaraz Telegraph is co-presenter of the local 7 o´clock news on Cable Andino in Huaraz) for example, often asks for my advice.

“

My father immediately went home, grabbed some stuff and went to the hospital. He worked five days straight and came home completely covered in blood, to sleep for two days and left again, heading to the hospital. Victor Ramos Icaza on his dad´s work ethics

How do you perceive ´social acceptance´ within society and people’s behaviour in general towards disabled persons in Huaraz? This is definitely something we need to address. As you know, to harvest some-

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017 thing you´ll need to sow. I am trying to do this but it´s hard sometimes. Let me share to your readers a terrible experience I suffered last week. Every Saturday I get picked up by Hernán Figueroa, who is the producer of the radio programme I work at. So, he normally takes me by the arm and we walk, from my house, to the studio which is six blocks away. Halfway, a lady who apparently was very busy talking on her mobile phone bumped into us and pushed us towards the wall. She clearly wanted to pass by. I apologised and said to the lady, ¨Madam, I am sorry, but I cannot see¨. It is then that she started to insult me. Are you kidding? No I am not, I am very serious. Because she was female, she expected us to give way. So I repeated and said again that I do not see. I got insulted and was asked why I did not use dark glasses or a sign on my body that would say that I am blind. How do visually impaired people get recognised everywhere in the world? Because we all carry a white cane; this one (showing his mobility tool). This is something that we need to change, because it has mortified me. But, let this be an example. Luckily, I can still walk, but how does society treat people that are in a wheelchair in Huaraz? I can still step aside but people in a wheelchair face trouble as well, as they´re less flexible. Huaraz is not very friendly towards disabled people. What we need to create is respect for others. I refuse to say that this has happened because she was of the opposite sex, but maybe she was busy or with her thoughts elsewhere. However, it´s not the way to treat a disabled person. Being visually impaired, how do you handle the terrible noise pollution in our city? This is something that has increased dramatically. Mainly, when someone walks through the city, it´s impossible not to get bothered by drivers, who are hitting their horns all the time. They hit it all the time, and for whatever reason. It´s a problem indeed. It has to do with respect. Likewise, many local businesses in town, don´t respect their neighbours either. There are many discothèques and restaurants that produce much more noise than they should do. Respect earns respect! Maybe I should stop talking on this topic. Also, have you noticed that people aren’t able to speak anymore, most of them are really screaming. Well, this all has to do with education. It´s a problem for society and this is mainly created at schools where children aren´t taught about values anymore. Changing the topic, we understand

Interview

that you were involved with the introduction of radio in Huaraz Well, radio was introduced in our city in 1958. A national chain called Radio Victoria introduced Radio Huaraz that was transmitted via long wave and short wave. It created job opportunities for people who had an established career but liked to make radio. At the time, Huaraz had a couple of newspapers circulating such as El Departamento and La Hora but there was no broadcast journalism yet. In 1963, Radio Huascarán was founded and this station became a decent competitor. I formed part of the founding members although the station was called OAX-3-O initially, the letters and digit are referring to the licenses at the time. It´s still the oldest radio station currently in operation in the city of Huaraz. From the year 1964 it transmitted in 1300 KHz of modulated amplitude, and since then it has played an important part in all the happenings of our city. The station was owned by Francisco Sotelo López and he was helped by his two brothers and although I was only 12 years old at the time, I loved making radio. As my father was a medic, l quickly learned about radio broadcasting and also communication. Having obtained a radio license at the age of 13, it was spectacular getting in contact with other stations all around the world via short wave. My father was good friends with the Sotelo family and that´s probably how I got involved. I ran a music programme as a kid, which was a very interesting experience. I remember that while still being in school, it was I who rang the school bell and as quick as I could, I climbed on my bike and would race to the Plaza de Armas because I had a programme to transmit. My programme Micro Surco Musical was from midday to one, and at one o´clock, the local news programme would start. This is basically how I started my professional career. When I finished school, I went to Lima to apply at La Uni (Universidad Nacional de Ingeniería) to study electronical engineering. However, due to the Earthquake of 1970, my studies were interrupted. I had to go back to Huaraz. Because of my radio experience and contacts with Huaraz, I was caught by the military and sent on the first possible military convoy to Huaraz. My father was making radio as well at the time, but him being a doctor, he had to help the victims of the earthquake and he abandoned the radio. Interestingly, the first alert of the earthquake was communicated, not to Lima, but to the United States. Later, the US would set up communication and help as they contacted Lima. At the time, no one knew about the disaster in Yungay yet. I remember that night very well. I was at my house and a general of the military knocked on my door and instantly promoted me to communications lieuten-

The Huaraz Telegraph Mr. Ramos offered us a small tour through his house and garden

ant. It took two days to get to Huaraz from Lima, and only two of the six vehicles made it to the city. The airport of Anta wasn’t opened yet due to three years of bureaucracy but after the earthquake, it got enabled in only 24 hours and this way it could receive the first emergency sending from Lima. Your father played a very important role during the earthquake, is this why they named the local hospital after him? My father was the director of the Belén Hospital at the time and this hospital had 120 beds in 1963 and offered basic health services like surgery, medicine, gynecology, obstetrics and pediatrics. During the government of Fernando Isaac Sergio Marcelo Marcos Belaúnde Terry, together with some other important people, and thanks to Congressman Miguel Dammert Muelle, we were able to construct a new hospital. There were seven new hospitals to be built in Peru, and Huaraz was lucky to be part of that project. Despite the fact that Juan Velasco Alvarado´s military government, which overthrew Belaúnde´s one, didn’t do much good to Peru, the Hospital Centro de Salud de Huaraz was constructed, finished and inaugurated. Huaraz was lucky to have the hospital because the Belén Hospital collapsed during the earthquake. Many lives were saved thanks to my father. My

father was one of the founding members of the Huaraz Rotary Club and during a meeting at the Hotel de Turistas (nowadays known as Hotel Huascarán), the earthquake happened. My father immediately went home, grabbed some stuff and went to the hospital. He worked five days straight and came home completely covered in blood, to sleep for two days and left again, heading to the hospital. My father wanted to become a teacher and initially studied pedagogy and ended up teaching the courses of physics, chemistry and biology at the La Libertad College. He was the youngest of eight siblings and after teaching for a while, he was named Director of the primary school La Libertad. After a couple of years, my father gathered some money and left Peru for France. There he studied medicine at the University of La Sorbonne in Paris. Due to the war and the fact that his mother got badly ill, he had to return to Peru. He became in charge of the family business and also created his own company. It is also during that time that he founded the Chamber of Commerce in Huaraz. Also during this stage, he was named mayor of Huaraz and his main job became the installation of a tap water and drainage network, which Huaraz lacked at the time. After having founded the Chamber of Commerce and being a doctor, my faContinue reading on page 16

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Interview

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

Continuation of page 15

ther finally got married. My father married my mother Sara Icaza Estremadoyro and they had two children; my sister Isabel and I. My sister lives in the US by the way, but she visits us every year. Well, getting back to the earthquake topic, my father played an important role. Not only in the hospital, but also being the president of the Peruvian Red Cross in Huaraz. Together with Vice-president Doña Colomba-Maguiña they were able to distribute the help packages that were sent from abroad. The help supply was stored at her warehouses, which were part of the soft drinks and syrups company El Fénix. Finally, Doña Colomba-Maguiña would be in charge of the Red Cross and my father would become in charge of the hospital. On October the 17th, 1992, he died in the present medical ward of this hospital due to an illness, but he had always wished for that. I believe that he wanted to pass away in the hospital he spent so much time in and loved. In 1993, the hospital was named after my father due to his fruitful work of social good through the years. The proposal was done by the Medical Corps of the hospital on May the 31st in 1993 by Regional Health Director Dr. Myriam Bazán Torres and Director of the hospital Dr. Edgar Depaz Salazar. Does it hurt analysing the current state of the hospital and its demise, and the health sector in general, being the son of a famous doctor who has meant so much for Huaraz? I believe, sadly, that Huaraz has lost a great opportunity to build a new hospital. Many years ago, this was a serious option as the current hospital is outdated. Unfortunately, one group of people wanted to construct a new hospital at its current location, whereas another group of people wanted to build it somewhere else. In the end, nothing was built nor changed and the local citizens are paying the price. I think that this option should be

The Huaraz Telegraph Mr. Ramos has still many old radios which work and are able to receive broadcasts from all over the world

analysed again, in benefit of the sector. The same is happening at the moment in the education sector. The children are paying the price for the fact that their teachers are striking. Something similar happened with the inauguration of the Santiago Antúnez de Mayolo University (UNASAM) in Huaraz. Back in the days, the government didn’t want to create a university, but the people wanted it very much. My father´s cousin Victor Valenzuela Guardia was the main drive behind the UNASAM and on the 24th of May, in 1977, the University of Huaraz got finally inaugurated. My father played a small role in this as well. Understand that after the earthquake there was an enormous pressure by the population because having a university meant that youngsters could study and get a decent career. Apart from your passion for making radio, you have mainly worked for big

television companies, right? Between 1975 and 1980, Francisco Morales Bermúdez Cerrutti was president of Peru and I was doing an internship at Channel 7 in Lima. At the time they were looking for a person from Huaraz who could help setting up a T.V. station in Huaraz. Along with some technicians, I was asked to accompany the President of Peru. We installed an antenna near the Plaza de Armas where the Telefonica Company is currently located. This was the first ever T.V. station in our city and initially its broadcast was between 6pm and 10 pm. Like I mentioned before, your boss often asks me what I think about certain programmes. I am the founder of ATV in Lima, currently Channel Nine. I worked for ATV until 1997, I believe. I occupied various roles including T.V. management and operations and was the contact person for international

broadcasters such as CNN and BBC for example. We became a national channel after we headed for the provinces and installed the channel on a local level. Do you have children who have followed your steps and are working in the radio or television sector Mr. Ramos? Well I have four sons, and one adopted daughter who is called Jimenita. My sons are working in different sectors. There is Alfonso, who is a music teacher although at the moment he mostly dedicates his time to internet and marketing services. It seems that he now feels a bit repented because teachers make a lot of money now in Peru. My second son is called Victor Henrique and he works at the prosecution office in Huaraz. My third son Álvaro has had a couple of sandwhich restaurants and is now in charge of a fast-food chain from Lima in Huaraz. My fourth son is called Roberto and he actually studied communications science and works at Channel 7 at the moment. In Peru, I often hear that television is the main cause that people aren’t culturally educated. What do you think about this? Well, as is the case with life itself, people always have a choice. Considering only the national channels, I believe Channel 7 (T.V Perú) is offering very informative, didactic and cultural programmes. It´s easy to blame television in Peru but people should realise they have a choice.

The Huaraz Telegraph Front view of the Víctor Ramos Guardia Hospital in Huaraz in 2016 (photo Facebook Hospital Victor Ramos Guardia - Huaraz)

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017 Continuation of page 3

Martyrs´ story of friars Michael and Zbigniew will be translated into Polish Almost two years after the publication of the book The Passion of Michael and Zbigniew, the book will be now translated into Polish. The book tells the story of the last hours of the life of Blessed Martyrs Miguel (Michael) Tomaszek and Zbigniew Strzalkowski who were murdered in August 26 years ago by the [now-forbidden] Communist Party Sendero Luminoso [Shining Path] in Pariacoto near Huaraz. Jan Hruszowiec, representative of the Franciscan Congregation of the Minor Conventual of Friars Krakow – Poland, asked Alex Cordero, the author of the book, his authorisation for the work to be translated into Polish language. Author Alex Cordero agreed to cede his rights, but also said he was actually surprised and pleased that his work will be translated and finally can be read by thousands of Polish citizens who want to know more about the work of the young friars in Peru. Jan Hruszowiec stated that the book is already well known in Poland, but it is only readable for those who master the Spanish language. Now having obtained the official authorisation of the author, he will print about 3,000 copies initially. As soon as the book is translated and printed, the Ancash Prefect Alex Cordero will be invited to be part of the official presentation of the work in Krakow. Alex Cordero said that he will give away the publishing rights freely, because he considers that the work is not only his, but also of the young and adults of Pariacoto who gave their testimonies to honour the two Polish Martyrs. The book might also be translate into English and Italian in the near future. Huaraz-born hotelier launches new craft beer called Huasca Pacha Since ancient times beers have been produced and are consumed by the world´s population. It´s said that the Egyptians used it on a daily basis and since then it has gone through a process of improvements for thousands of years. Literally to end up in the hands of monks in medieval times, who after centuries of confinement in their cloisters left us, to our good luck, this wonderful drink as it is known today. The city of Huaraz was not exempt from beer production as the Maguiña family started in 1932 the Huascarán Brewery and produced beers such as Cebú, which was a dark beer; Pilsen Huaraz (blond) and Cerveza Huascarán. These beers are sadly no longer available as the brewery shut down in 1961. Juan Manuel Quiros Romero from Huaraz and owner of Albergue Churup informed the editor of The Huaraz Telegraph that he has produced seven different types of craft beers that will be on the market as soon as all paperwork is done. The beer will be called Huasca Pacha and its seven flavours will be given names related to Huaraz and its area. Huasca Pacha is brewed in the city itself and according to the producers; the beer will not be as strong as the regular known craft beers. Huaraz already counts with multiple bars and cafés that sell craft beers from the nation’s capital and since 2012 with two local craft beer companies.

Brief News

Valery Rozov realises historical BASE jump from Huascarán Valery Rozov has successfully completed the highest BASE jump in South America in his search to jump from the seven highest and most suitable peaks on all continents in the world. It took the Russian five days to ascent the Huascarán in the Cordillera Blanca, which is set at 6,768 metres above sea level. In addition to the height and lack of oxygen, Rozov had to deal with the freezing cold of the night, moments where he completed the major part of his ascent. Valery climbed and safely reached the top of the southern summit, known for being technically difficult and dangerous, due to its constant avalanches of ice and snow. After reaching the summit, Rozov took off 50 meters from the absolute peak, landing at an altitude of 4,800 meters, having flown some 2,000 meters in the valley with his special wing suit for a minute and a half. Valery Rozov officially started with the idea of the Seven Summit project in 2015. However, he started it somewhat in 2009 with a jump from Elbrus (Russia, Europe), followed by one in Ulvetanna in Antarctica, the following year. In 2015 he jumped from Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, and on October the 5th in 2016, Russia’s Valery Rozov leapt from a height of around 7,700 m from Cho Oyu (the sixth-highest mountain in the Himalayas) falling for around 90 seconds before opening his parachute, landing on a glacier approximately two minutes later at an altitude of around 6,000 metres. ¨The idea of the Seven Summits project appeared in my head right after my 2015 jump to Mount Kilimanjaro,¨ he explained. ¨So I’m still working on my idea of jumping from the highest points of the seven continents. Every jump is, above all, a challenge for me.¨ To complete the magnificent seven, Rozov still has BASE jumps to realise in Australia and North America. Although Huascarán is not the highest peak on South-American soil, the Aconcagua appeared not suitable for a BASE jump. Spanish tourist detained by Tourist Police while playing music on Luzuriaga A female Spanish tourist was detained last month by the Tourist Police while she was playing her charango (small Andean stringed instrument) on the main street Luzuriaga in Huaraz. According to Peruvian Migration Law, tourists are not allowed to work, or to make any kind of money unless they count with a permit granted by the Superintendencia Nacional de Migraciones.

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The Spanish tourist refused to reveal her identity to the police and said not to carry her passport. She stated to live in Los Olivos and that her passport was to be found at her house and that her stay in Peru would be legal, having a permit until the 22nd of September of 2017. Due to her unwillingness to reveal her identity or show her passport, she was taken to the Tourist Police Office across the Plaza de Armas for further investigation. Tourists may stay in Peru up to 183 days and are fined with one dollar per day if they prolong their time, however, tourists are not allowed to work, not allowed begging on streets, not allowed to realise street performances for money not to sell handicrafts.

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Environment

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

´Woody´ and Kate calling attention for biodiversity on their trip through the Andes Through the years, we have now interviewed a couple of cyclists who for different reasons visited the Huaraz area on a bike. Faithfull readers will definitely remember Fernando (Nando) Padrós from Catalunya in Spain who abandoned European society, left his home, friends and job behind and took to his bicycle and was cycling around the world trying to support children in need. In February of 2014 we had the pleasure of meeting another intrepid cyclist in the name of Álvaro Pérez Ramirez, a veterinarian from San Diego (USA), who was travelling the world trying to raise awareness for the need for animal protection. That same year we also met Loretta Henderson from Canada who was cycling around the world and she started the Women on Wheels Wall; a community of over 120 solo female bicycle tourists from all around the world. Last but not least, we also got to know the Pikes on Bikes, who wrote a very interesting cycling guidebook. All of them, interestingly, had a goal or message they wanted to spread and the story of Kate Rawles is likewise very inspiring. Kate is from the UK although she grew up in Scotland and she may be called an adventurous environmental activist or freelance outdoor philosopher as she is raising awareness about the loss of biodiversity cycling through the rough Andes. Explorer Kate left the UK in early December 2016 and hopes to get to Cape Horn in early 2018. She is doing this, however, on a very special bike, a bicycle made out of bamboo. Rawles´ message on the loss of biodiversity was previously covered by the Guardian in England, Lonely Planet, the Bogota Post and El Tiempo in Piura. We met Kate in Huaraz for a coffee and got informed that her bike is probably the UK´s first home-grown bicycle. Well Kate, please inform us about your reasons for visiting Huaraz during your trip I am on route, all the way to Cape Horn in Chile, or at least as close as you can get on a bicycle. I started in Cartagena in Colombia and I am following the spine of the Andes hoping to make it all the way down to Southern Patagonia. I came to Huaraz, not only because it´s on route, but also to be able to spend a couple of weeks to explore the Cordillera Blanca and getting to know these amazing mountains here. They´re absolutely stunning, beautiful. What´s so interesting about your bike? It´s actually very special because it´s

made of bamboo. That´s not all, it´s bamboo from England and there isn’t a lot of bamboo in England. There is a project in the very south of England called the Eden Project in Cornwall, which grows some bamboo. I went on a five-day workshop at the Bamboo Bicycle Club and learnt to build the bike. As far as I know, it´s the UK´s first home-grown bicycle. Grown and built in the UK and we shipped it on a cargo ship to Colombia. Are you an experienced cyclist Kate and what do you do when you´re off the bike? It´s not the first big bike trip I am doing, as ten years ago I rode from Texas (US) to Alaska following the Rockies exploring

The Huaraz Telegraph Kate Rawles and her bike near the Punta Olímpica Tunnel, on the way to Chacas

climate change. This time the focus of my trip is biodiversity. We are losing all kinds of species at a catastrophic rate. I am sure you know, the real aim of my journey is to understand better what biodiversity is and what´s happening to it, why that matters and what some of the positive solutions are. I am visiting lots of different nature conservations and projects while riding down the Andes. This trip I have called The Life Cycle and it follows-up the earlier journey from Texas to Alaska which was called The Carbon Cycle. The topic of biodiversity becomes very huge so I set out on our impact on other species, the biodiversity on Earth and what the possible solutions are. I visit national parks, conservation areas, conservation corridors and one of them for example the one here, the Huascarán National Park; a beautiful park suffering deforestation. Have you already come to some preconclusions, prior to the end of the trip?

The Huaraz Telegraph A picture of ´Woody´, Kate´s bike made of bamboo

I have been really struck by some of the impacts on biodiversity on other species like mining and the pollution it creates. For example copper and gold mining have such a big impact on the water sources. The water pollution impacts hugely on agriculture and human´s ability to get fresh and clean water as well as all the other species are depending on clean water, clean soil and clean air. The mining issue was kind of unexpected and I really

have learned a lot on how important that is. And also, how difficult to tackle it is because the small artisanal mines are one thing, the massive multinational mining companies are the real polluters which are often owned by South-Africans. For example, in Cartagena they had their own army trying to introduce their gold mine to a small community. The tiny community in Cartagena had resisted that gold mine by a public referendum and this is an amazing positive story but with some very dark aspects to it. Are you reporting your findings? I have been keeping a blog and have a private journal and do a lot of social media. But, when I get back to England, all my experiences will be published in a book. I wrote a book earlier on my Texas-Alaska journey [The Carbon Cycle: Crossing the Great Divide, published in 2012]. This book will be called The Life Cycle because it´s all about biodiversity. As you´re leaving Huaraz pretty soon, what could you share about your observations on the Huaraz area? For me, the headline story of the Huaraz area has to be the retreat of the glaciers. Yesterday, I read on the Internet that Peru is going to be one of the countries most affected by climate change in the whole world. Clearly, one of the reasons for that is that most Peruvians directly or indirectly

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017 mostly depend on the melting water of glaciers for their drinking water. We can´t survive without water. It´s absolutely key for human life, as well as for other life on Earth. The glaciers in Peru as I understand are receding extremely fast with some over 30% reduction rate. Cycling through the Cordillera Blanca is beautiful but also shocking. You can actually see with your own eyes where the glaciers once were, and how much they have receded. Once you lose water in the mountains, this will have a massive impact on humans, ecosystems and agriculture. Deforestation would be another headline story. As I cycle up through the Cordillera Blanca, I noticed a lot of non-native introduced eucalyptus trees. The native Polylepis (from Greek poly (many) and letis (layers) and called Queñuales in Spanish) are under pressure because of cattle. You can clearly see that there would have been a lot more of these trees but, obviously people need to make a living. There is no point saying, people shouldn’t have cattle here because that´s their form of income. What we need to be doing is finding other ways for people to earn a decent living that doesn’t have such an impact on biodiversity. The thing about trees is that not only do they give you water, but also soil stability. They´re absolutely critical as I have witnessed in Colombia. Here I saw destroyed trees, particularly on slopes, which caused really shocking mud avalanches that caused many deaths. This in combination with climate change and the El Niño phenomenon as the soil is very unstable. Trees give us life and protection. How do locals react in a certain area when they notice your bike is not a regular bike? The bike is amazing! I call it Woody although technically bamboo is a grass and not wood. The bike has a magic effect and it immediately breaks the ice. As soon as I stop, people start asking where I got it from and that sort of questions. They ask me why am I cycling on a bamboo bike and this allows me to share my story and create awareness for biodiversity and nature conservation. People react very differently; sadly, my Spanish isn’t good enough so this is a big limitation. However, most of the times there is a lot of interest in the topic, but there always is a variety of reactions. When would you call your journey a success? That´s a great question. Well, my first goal would be to make it all the way to Cape Horn. I have done little over 3,000 miles now (4,828 km) and until so far, the bike has done great without any breakdowns. I would call it a success if I can turn it

Environment into a powerful piece of communication. The idea is to use the adventure story as a hook, calling attention for biodiversity, species and nature. My message would be; nature is not a luxury. We really need it. We´re impacting it hugely and we have to tackle it because we´re not able to meet all our other social goals if we do not protect the life support system. My journey will be a success when I can get that message out successfully. I hope that we humans start to protect nature a lot better and treat it better pretty soon, rather than destroying it. I do believe that this is possible. With many of these big issues like climate change, biodiversity collapse and water pollution, there´s almost certainly still a window to turn things around. Across the world I am witnessing a certain positive resurgence of awareness. People are waking up, definitely on the topic of climate change, a little bit slower on other topics. We know how to tackle the problem, sadly it´s about political and social will. It´s about implementing them in win-win ways and you have to offer people a decent way of life but also tackle social inequity. What´s most inspiring on this journey is the meeting of some incredible individuals who are working on nature conservation and social development. People supplying all sorts of incomes to others in terms of educations, research, and nature conservation on many levels and doing it almost single handedly. It´s incredible and really inspiring to realise what one person with a vision, determination, compassion and smartness can achieve.

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Is ´Woody´ a lot heavier compared to other materials and when do you expect to go home? Actually, bamboo is pretty light, but the joints the bike is made of are made of hemp fibres which are pretty heavy. The whole bike is just under 18 kilograms. I guess it a little heavier than a standard steel mountain bike but a lot heavier than an expensive titanium mountain bike. I am here for a year, I have a tent, a laptop, a lot of stuff for the weather so it´s almost irrelevant, a kilo less or more. I hope to get to Patagonia in February, because I don’t like to get there in the winter. I already spent two months longer than planned but we´ll see. For people willing to send a message of support or to get more information about The Life Cycle journey, please visit the website www.outdoorphilosophy.co.uk. The website includes a live tracker map so people can see where Kate is at the moment and also an occasional blog. On Twitter and Instagram Kate can be found as @CarbonCycleKate and for regular short posts and pics she also can be found on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/ biodiversitybikeride

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Climbing

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

Italian disabled climbers open new climbing routes in the Rurec Valley Pietro Rago (56), a professional climber from the province of Brescia in Lombardy, Italy, had previously been to Huaraz in 2005 and 2006, when he opened several climbing routes in the Rurec Valley in solo, not an easy feat! He came back this year to organise a very special and meaningful expedition in the Cordillera Blanca. The expedition, called “Arrampicande 2017” (arrampica means climbing in Italian), is meant to inspire people who for various reasons believe it is impossible for them to live an adventure, inviting them to leave their home and to step outside their comfort zone, no matter where to and no matter what activity they choose to do, to be part of a team, to live a unique experience, that way teaching them new skills and creating a link between people of different social, economic and ethnic backgrounds. Participating in an international climbing expedition like this one is the dream of every climber, both expert and amateurs. However, for a disabled person this becomes something much more extreme and maybe even unattainable. Rago believes this is and should be made possible for all, so he decided to set up a team that includes disabled climbers supported by expert climbers, film-makers and journalists and chose Huaraz as the place to be to open some new alpine routes in the Rurec valley, located south of Huaraz within the Huascaran National Park. The Huaraz Telegraph was lucky to meet Pietro and some of the other 14 team members last month and asked him about his motives.

Riccardo Colosio from Brescia in the case of Kevin. Additionally, Luca Ranghiero from Verona is here to support Kevin as well.

Tell us Pietro, what are you here for exactly?

The objective of the project is to explain to the world that disabled people are very much capable of a lot. It´s true, they are not regular disabled people. Silvia for example is a triathlon, sailing and ski champion, who has participated four times at the Paralympics as well. She is a great example and so is Kevin. We arrived in Huaraz on the second of August and we managed to open a couple of new climbing routes in the Rurec Valley – one 8 pitches long, the other 6 pitches long, both bolted and of difficulties ranging from 6a to 6c. The routes are located on the left and right sides of the valley and are called “La Fiamma Bianca” and “Arrampicande 2017” after the name of our expedition.

Well, it´s my third time in Huaraz and last year I started planning an international expedition for disabled people. I like Huaraz and the Rurec Valley and that´s where we are climbing at the moment. I met a couple of disabled sportsmen a while ago and informed them about my project. Our moto is to make the impossible possible. There´s fourteen Italian team members, including a film maker (Mirko Sotgiu from Chiavari), a nurse (Elena Robusti from Cremona), a rope expert (Giovanni Foti from Brescia), a couple of lead climbers (Ralf Steinhilber and Detoni Sandro from Brescia), and other members who belong to the climbing team (Raffaele Agazzi from Brescia, Luca Sossi from Brescia and Carolina Bosseni). Within the team there are two disabled climbers: Silva Parente (48, from Milan) and Kevin Ferrari (25, from Brescia). As you can notice, Kevin has lost his right leg and Silvia is blind. They are disabled but are true athletes. Lorenzo Migliari from Bolonga is Silvia´s life partner and also her lead climber, as is

Not all team members are here at the moment as most of them are climbing as we speak. When would you call the expedition a success? It´s already a big success, organising the expedition and getting here is a success. It´s all about making things possible.

The Huaraz Telegraph Group picture of the brave Italians during their trip

Luckily our trip has been covered by the Italian media as well, prior to our trip to Huaraz, Kevin and Silvia were interviewed by Sky Sports Italia for example and I would like to come back next year and repeat the project. The first trip is always the most difficult one. Of course, I have been told that this was a crazy idea but as you see, we have made it possible. Silvia, nice to meet you, how´s your stay in Huaraz so far? Great, thank you. It´s exciting and very intense. During the day, we did trekking and climbing and this is a new thing for me. I have climbed before in Italy but never such long routes. At times, I was a bit afraid and didn’t know what to expect but now I feel very happy and proud. It´s great to climb new routes in new places. I met Pietro a couple of years ago and last year he called me to tell me about the expedition and I immediately said: “Yes, you can count on me!”. I had to train a lot in Italy for five months and it´s very exciting. Pietro told me that you are a four-time Paralympic athlete, that´s great! Yes, I have participated in four Paralyimpics practicing alpine ski. The last one was in 2006 in Turin, but I also was at the one in Nagano, Lillehammer and TignesAlbertville. In Turin, I won a bronze medal in the visually impaired slalom and a gold medal at the visually impaired giant slalom, another bronze one on the Super-G and on the downhill. In Lillehammer in 1994 I also obtained a bronze medal on the slalom. I do a lot of sports, but the most important one is skiing. However, now I have a new passion, climbing, and it´s very emotional. Kevin, how has your experience been so far?

The Huaraz Telegraph Kevin (third from the left) near the Huaraz market accompanied by some expedition members

Very emotional too. It´s hard sometimes but in my opinion, the expedition is great so far. It´s the first time I am not on the European continent and it´s very exciting. It´s very motivating to climb with Silvia, although she climbs with Lorenzo and I climb with Riccardo. Riccardo is also my emotional support. It´s scary sometimes as you will understand. But the expedition is a great success because I have overcome fears and learned new things.

How is climbing with one leg? It depends a lot on the rock structure. Climbing here is different because the rocks are different and I have to use my leg and feet a lot more, whereas in Italy I can use my arms more. It´s tough because I have only one leg so it´s hard to find the right balance sometimes. I had an accident seven years ago when I was riding my motorbike and lost my leg. It took me a couple of months to recover from the injury, but it took four months to walk again. The mental aspect is hard. The first year was easy because a lot of people and friends were offering help and attention. The second year was really rough. You start to ask yourself questions like how will a girl fall in love with me if I am disabled. Can I still do all the things I did before the accident or will I get a decent job? However, these questions motivated me a lot, although I had one year of difficulties. After that year, I read about awareness and what I would like to reach in my life and discovered that sports would be the solution. Being active helps me tremendously and I am practicing a lot of swimming. This year I have been practicing every day. I hope to participate in the triathlon one day, so in the mornings I go swimming and in the afternoon, I cycle. Lorenzo, what´s your role exactly in this expedition? Well, I am Silvia´s boyfriend for maybe over twenty years now and I am her skiing guide as well. We train together and climb together. I normally go ahead of her and help her climb. We are doing everything together and give each other signals, but Silvia is very good at climbing so it´s actually really easy. I am very proud of her and when you talked about her participation in the Paralympics before, we did that together as well. I ski ahead of her and she has to follow me, carrying an amplifier on my back, but that´s how it works basically. However, I am the first one to cross the finishing line [laughing]. I always win! What´s nice is that at the moment at the Paralympics the guide is also on the podium, because we work together as a team.

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

Anthropology

First anthropology field work experience in the Callejón de Huaylas 1984 In 1984 I came to Peru from the University of California to study Anthropology at the Catholic University in Lima. The following is an excerpt from Patricia J. Hammer´s first attempt at ethnography in Carhuaz. See page 8 of this edition for more information. me, accompanied by her grandchildren. She insisted that I accompany her to the plaza during social functions. She was careful to By Patricia J. Hammer, explain to me in Quechua how to perform Ph.D., Anthropologist, certain tasks and the purpose of preparatory Director of the Center for processes, such as the shelling, sorting and Social Well Being drying of maize for its assorted uses. And, Older women in the community warmly on Mother’s Day she expected a gift from received me into the community, stopping me. to greet me with the traditional pounding on the back form of salutation among kinsmen. Another older woman who frequently visited Although there were limitations on our initial me was Doña Paula who lived several interactions due to my minimal proficiency houses away towards the plaza. She often in Quechua, communication transpired came to converse and sell me fresh eggs. despite my verbal handicap. Elderly women She inquired about my intentions in the took the time to pause and chat along the community and other aspects of my life. road or in the plaza. Often they told me of Like other older women in the village, Paula health problems they or family members initially addressed me as niña, reflecting were suffering, asking my diagnosis and my unsocialized state. I spoke a minimum whether I could procure medicines to relieve of Quechua, did not wear a pollera – the the symptoms. traditional skirt, I was unfamiliar with cultural norms and I was unmarried and childless. All Within my first few days in Shilla, I arrived at of these aspects may be associated with not the crossroads in the early morning to see yet fully socialized girls. Furthermore, using people huddled together against the cold the term niña distinctly placed me outside with bundles of goods, waiting for a truck to the social network of the community, for carry them to market in the provincial capital china is the term most used by older women of Carhuaz. Doña Andrea was sitting across in referring to young girls. the way on her daughter’s doorstep. She smiled when she saw me and motioned My naivety of local meanings, evidenced me to approach her. At her invitation I by my behavior, induced people to explain joined the group and closely observed to me commonly understood concepts. morning socializing. Initially villagers were For example, an older woman noting my keenly aware of my presence and much ignorance, explained to me that wandering teasing and many states of amazement and around alone invites danger to an individual curiosity were directed toward me. At this in the way of susto – magical fright, especially time Doña Andrea protected me in a sense in accord with passing by isolated ravines or by explaining my presrence to the locals streams where spirits are known to lurk. and by openly affiliating with me in the public Overall, I would conclude that the interactions realm. I had in Shilla were with certain kinds of Doña Andrea is a well respected figure in individuals who were either marginal in Shilla. She possesses a strong character themselves, or with those who had access accompanied by an authoritative demeanor. to peripheral realms, such as village officials I spent time with her, assisting her in her and men familiar with the outside world, daily activities of herding, weaving, washing children as not yet fully socialized beings, clothes, shelling corn, etc. She occasionally as well as older women whose statuses sought me out in regard to special tasks or were established and who risked nothing in emergencies, such as chasing stray rabbits associating with me. As my time progressed and guinea pigs. in the community, my status as a young, unmarried woman was confirmed and For the following reasons I am inclined to became the focal point of my interactions. think that Doña Andrea treated me in the Older women were apparently provoked manner of an affinal, or potentially affinal by my behavior to advise me about proper relative. Aside from her constant joking that conduct in accordance with my age and I should marry her three-year-old grandson, gender, reflecting their expectations of such my participation with her in carrying out daily an individual within the framework of the chores placed me in a position most often traditional values of Shilla. filled by the daughter-in—law. She inquired as to the whereabouts of my mother, and in One night during the fiesta de San Juan, in reaction to the great distance, she remarked my last days in Shilla, Doña Paula called on her own temporary separation from her me over to watch the celebration in front sons, saying, “and here I am missing my son of the town council building. She offered who is only as far away as Huaraz.” In her me protection against the cold with her son’s absence she slept at her daught-in- beneath the warmth of her woolen lliklla law’s house to keep her company. Mirroring (woven blanket). When I asked her who the the same type of relationship, and showing strangers were in the plaza, all highlanders maternal concern for me, she mentioned but their faces unfamiliar to me, she replied that she would like to sleep in the linguist’s that they were mishtis – outsiders. I inquired adobe house, too, so that I would not have if I too, was a mishti, to which she replied to be alone at night. As is the custom among negatively, and declared with smiling relatives, upon bringing her animals home certainty, that I was a shillapina – a woman from pasture, she would drop by and visit of Shilla.

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Tourist Information

The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017

All you should know about day trips, trekking, mountaineering and rock climbing The Cordillera Blanca offers countless opportunities for trekkers and climbers, as well as for people not so keen on physical activities. The wonderful lakes and glaciers of the White Range are easily accessible from the town of Huaraz. Here is a quick guide to the best activities around Huaraz. DAY TRIPS Daily sightseeing tours These tours are great for those of you who are not so active, or who need to acclimatise before heading out into the mountains. LLANGANUCO – This tour visits the villages in the Huaylas Valley (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz), and the beautiful Llanganuco Lake. Be aware that you will only spend from 40 minutes to one hour at the lake and spend much time at places of little interest. Departs every day. Alternatively you can visit the lakes independently, taking a taxi from Yungay, that way you can take full advantage of the lakes. CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – This tour takes you to Chavin, a village situated on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca in the Conchucos Valley. Here you can visit the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring some of the oldest and most significant pre-Inca ruins in Peru, as well as the Chavin National Museum, which has recently been completely refurbished and is very much worth a visit. You also make a stop at the lovely Lake Querococha along the way. Departs every day except Mondays. PASTORURI – This tour visits the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, with the amazing Pastoruri glacier, which is still well worth a visit despite having lost 40% of its ice in recent years. You can’t help but be impressed by the huge ice cliffs and the Puya Raimondii – a rare 12m high bromeliad plant which you visit on the way to the glacier. Make sure you become acclimatised before going on this tour as the glacier is at 5000m. Departs every day. Day hikes These hikes are perfect for those needing to acclimatise before a trek, or for those with limited time. LAKE WILCACOCHA, 3750m – This is the best hike to start your activities with if coming from sea level, as it is not above 4000m. It can be done in half a day and for those with some hiking experience it can easily be done independently using public transport. The trailhead is a mere 15-minute drive away at Chiwipampa, the hike up to the lake, located in the Cordillera Negra, takes approximately two hours. From the lake, you are rewarded with amazing panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca. LAKE CHURUP, 4485m – This is one of the closest and most easily accessible hike from Huaraz, leading to a very beautiful turquoise/emerald green coloured glacial lake. It can be quite challenging as there are some steep sections and there is a rock wall before the lake, which you need

to scramble up to, there are wires to help you up. It can be tricky in the rainy season when the rock is wet and incredibly slippery, so be careful. It is recommended not to hike alone, but for experienced hikers a guide is not necessary as the path is easy to find. For those of you with limited hiking experience, it is advisable to go with a guide, as he will help you go up and down the rock wall safely. The trailhead at Llupa or Pitec can be easily reached by public transport. LAKE 69, 4600m – This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the northern section of the national park, from Huaraz it’s roughly a 3 -hour drive to the trailhead (Cebollapampa), but the journey is incredibly scenic with great views of Mount Huascaran and the Llanganuco Lakes. The hike is of moderate difficulty, but can be challenging for those with limited acclimatisation. You can reach the trailhead by public transport easily, but finding transport to get back can prove very difficult, so it is recommended to hire private transport from Huaraz. For those with hiking experience, a guide is not necessary as the path is clear, but make sure you are already a little acclimatised to the high altitude before setting off (if coming from sea level this is not recommended for a first hike), otherwise you may have some serious problems with altitude sickness, which is why some agencies prefer to send a guide with their groups so that they can keep an eye on any potential problems. The lake is totally stunning, not only its pristine blue colour, but also its fantastic location at the foot of the mighty Mount Chacraraju. You are rewarded with awesome views of the Cordillera Blanca’s highest summits during the hike. LAKE PARON, 4140m – This lake is located in the northern section of the national park. You need to first go to the town of Caraz before ascending towards the Cordillera Blanca, a long but scenic journey going through the Paron Valley, where huge granite cliffs tower high on all sides. You can go all the way to the lake by private transport, then those who wish can follow the path that skirts the northern shores of the lake and that leads to the Artesonraju Base Camp, or/and can hike up to the viewpoint. This is the largest and one of the most beautiful lakes in the range, as it is surrounded by many impressive snow-capped peaks. Group departures to this lake are not daily, but more or less once or twice a week when there is enough demand. LAKE AGUAC, 4580m – This is another lake located close to Huaraz. The trail starts at the ruins of Wilcahuain and is fairly easy to find. It is quite a long hike (approx. 4 hours to reach the lake, less to come back down) and the altitude can make it challenging. The lake doesn’t have a special colour, but there are some great mountain views around. TREKKING Easy to moderate treks SANTA CRUZ TREK (four days) – Undoubtedly the Cordillera Blanca’s most famous and popular trek. It is suitable for novice hikers, but good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. This trek

deserves its fame; offering varied scenery and endless views of majestic snowcapped peaks, jewelled glacial lakes and gorgeous Andean valleys. For those with ample experience of trekking at high altitude, this trek is doable without a guide, but be sure to follow the national park rules especially to carry all your rubbish out of the park. Ask in town for directions before heading out, as although easy to follow, the path is not signposted. Departures for this trek in an all-inclusive organised group run daily in high season, but standards vary from one company to the next. The trek can be completed in three or four days, but if you do it in three days you will miss the side trip to the Alpamayo base camp and Lake Arhuaycocha, which is undoubtedly one of the trek’s highlights. OLLEROS – CHAVIN TREK also known as LLAMA TREK (three days) – A less popular trek, it mainly crosses vast expanses of puna, following ancient preInca and Inca paths that lead to the village of Chavin. There are no glacial lakes and few snow-capped mountain views during this trek, but you will come across isolated communities. Moderate to challenging treks AKILPO – ISHINCA TREK (three days) – This trek is similar in difficulty to the Quilcayhuanca trek, although donkeys can be used (they do not go over the pass but go back and around). The pass is very high at 5050m and the path leading up to it is steep and not well marked, the descent from the pass is very difficult and potentially dangerous if you go the wrong way. The trek starts at the pre-Inca ruins of Honcopampa, and then goes up the Akilpo Valley through beautiful forests of local quenual trees, before reaching the superb Lake Akilpo just before the pass. Then you go down to the Ishinca Valley. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers looking for an alternative to the Santa Cruz trek. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. QUILCAYHUANCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – A stunning trek which goes through some less-visited, but none the less stunning valleys of the Cordillera Blanca. It is a much tougher trek than the Santa Cruz for two reasons. First there are no donkeys to carry all the equipment, so you will have to carry a backpack weighing around 15kg (the weight depends on the number of porters accompanying the group). Second, because the pass is much higher. At 5050m the path leading up to it is very steep, rocky and generally not well trodden. The way down from the pass is even steeper and more challenging. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers who wish to experience peace and tranquillity. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. Note that some agencies haven taken the habit of doing the trek in reverse, starting in Cojup, in order to avoid the national park control point in Pitec and send uncertified guides. Doing the trek this way is not recommendable as the ascent to the pass from the Cojup side is too challenging for most people. Challenging treks HUAYHUASH TREK (eight to twelve days) – The Huayhuash full circuit trek

is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful. It is a trek that requires good physical condition and acclimatisation, because it crosses many high passes (eight passes minimum ranging from 4650m to 5050m) and the campsites are all above 4100m. Trekkers are rewarded with endless breath-taking views of stunning glacial lakes, pristine valleys and icy peaks, which can be extremely close. There are many alternatives possible for the itinerary, but the most common group departures are for the eight day and ten day treks. Those with more time and wishing to explore less visited valleys of the range can do the trek in as many as 15 days, and take the more challenging high trail. Those with limited time can do the four day Mini Huayhuash trek, which visits one of the range’s most beautiful locations: the Lake Jahuacocha area. CEDROS – ALPAMAYO TREK (seven to ten days) – This trek is less popular than the Huayhuash trek, and also very different, although not less beautiful. It is probably a bit more challenging too, even though the passes are not as high (eight passes on the full circuit ranging from 4400m to 4850m), but the trails leading up to the passes are much steeper. You are unlikely to meet many trekkers and will come across several isolated Quechua communities who still follow a traditional lifestyle. The highlight of this trek is undoubtedly the view from Jancarurish of Mount Alpamayo, known as the World’s most Beautiful Mountain thanks to its near perfect pyramid of ice. You will not see as many glacial lakes and close-up views of glaciers on this trek as on the Huayhuash trek, but the landscape is much more varied and the isolation a real bonus. The trek can be done in seven days starting in Hualcayan or Huancarhuas and finishing in Pomabamba, allowing one worthwhile rest day in Jancarurish, but take into account that you need a full day to travel back to Huaraz from Pomabamba (night buses are not recommended due to frequent robberies on this route). For those with more time, you can add extra days by joining on to the Santa Cruz trek at the end, making it a ten or 11 day itinerary if finishing in Cashapampa, or a nine day itinerary if finishing in Vaqueria. The trek can be done in reverse, but it is tougher. MOUNTAINEERING Keep in mind that glacier conditions change from year to year, so what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses the following year. So make sure to check the latest conditions in town before setting out on any of these expeditions. Non-technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with no previous mountaineering experience; however, even though they are often referred to as trekking peaks these expeditions, although not technical, are harder than a trek, due to the fact that you wake up at midnight, walk in the dark and use heavy equipment such as mountain boots and crampons. If you are fit and have experience of trekking at high altitude and want to experience being on a glacier, then one of these peaks is for you.

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The Huaraz Telegraph September 2017 MOUNT PISCO, 5752m (three days) – This expedition offers some of the best summit views of any peak of the Cordillera Blanca, and for that reason is very popular. Crossing the moraine takes two to three hours and is considered the most challenging part of the expedition. It is possible to include a hike to Lake 69 on the last day. MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, 5686m (two days) – This expedition can be quite challenging, because no donkeys can be used, you have to carry roughly a 15kg backpack up a steep path to moraine camp on day 1. On day 2 there is 700m elevation gain to reach the summit and fortunately only a very short hike through the moraine to reach the glacier. It is very popular due to its proximity to Huaraz making it a short expedition. MOUNT ISHINCA, 5530m (three days) – This peak is mostly used as an acclimatisation peak for those wanting to climb the higher and more technical Mount Tocllaraju, which is situated in the same valley. MOUNT MATEO 5150m, (one day) – This peak, which is part of the Contrahierbas Massif, is the only one that can be climbed in a single day, leaving Huaraz at 4am and coming back some time in the afternoon. Despite often being described as an easy climb, it remains a mountaineering expedition that should be undertaken with a qualified guide and all the necessary safety equipment. Intermediate level climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with some mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness. MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, 6034m (four days) – This expedition is perfect for those who have climbed a non-technical summit previously and want to take the next step in the mountaineering world by trying something more technical. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. The relatively short summit ascent makes it a perfect first 6000m+ peak. MOUNT CHOPICALQUI, 6354m (four days) – This expedition has the same technical difficulty level as Mount Tocllaraju, but it is a more difficult climb due to the much longer summit route and higher altitude. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. It offers one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most beautiful ascent routes along its southwest ridge. MOUNT HUASCARAN SOUTH 6768m, (seven days) – Although not very difficult from a technical point a view, this is an extremely tough expedition suitable only for mountaineers with plenty of experience, due to the difficult climbing conditions (crevasses, risk of avalanche, extreme cold and altitude). Do not underestimate the difficulty of this climb. Technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with plenty of technical mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from

Tourist Information altitude sickness. MOUNT ALPAMAYO, 5947m (seven days) – This is a serious and technically challenging expedition requiring the ascent of a 470m high ice wall. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. Please note that the ascent from base camp to high camp is particularly challenging, given that you need to climb up a 60m high ice wall (at a 55 degree incline), carrying your backpack. Known as the World’s Most Beautiful Mountain, each year Alpamayo attracts many mountaineers from the world over. MOUNT ARTESONRAJU, 6025m (five days) – This is a mentally, physically and technically demanding climb requiring the ascent of a 600m high ice wall, at an incline of 50 degrees. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential, as well as an excellent physical condition. Two ascent routes are possible, either from Lake Paron or from the Santa Cruz Valley.

WARNING FOR TOURISTS:

AVOID THE RATAQUENUA CROSS AND DON´T HIKE FROM THE RUINS OF WILCAHUAIN TOWARDS THE BAÑOS TERMALES IN MONTERREY BECAUSE OF ARMED ROBBERIES ON TOURISTS the issues mentioned above have been resolved, we do not recommend anyone visiting Hatun Machay at present (for more information visit our website: www. thehuaraztelegraph.com). THE SPHINX – Also known as The Colossus of the Andes or ‘La Esfinge’ in Spanish, it is situated 90km northeast of Huaraz in the Paron Valley and is considered to be one of the most amazing granite rock walls in South America, offering a variety of traditional

climbing routes with superb views of the snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca surrounding it. Given its extreme altitude (5325m), it is essential to be well acclimatised before setting off on this climb and to have sufficient experience in traditional climbing. It takes an average of three to four days to complete the climb. The tourist Information is provided by assistant manager Marie Timmermans from Belgium of tour agency Quechuandes

ROCK CLIMBING & BOULDERING Rock climbing and bouldering spots are plentiful around Huaraz. All types of climbing, all levels, many different types of rock, fantastic views, no chance to get bored! Check with local climbers or travel agencies specialising in rock climbing for a detailed list of the necessary equipment and help with logistics, or buy the brand new Huaraz - The Climbing Guide, which features all the region’s best climbing sites - some 23 sites and over 1,000 routes in total. LOS OLIVOS – This is the closest climbing spot to Huaraz, situated only three kilometres from the town centre. It features a large number of equipped sport climbing routes in five different sectors, as well as several boulders, suitable for climbers of all levels. From here you get an amazing panoramic view of the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. ANTACOCHA – Situated 35km south of Huaraz in the Cordillera Negra it is one of the few places in the area offering long routes with a variety of difficulty levels, suitable for climbers with limited or a lot of experience alike. The 180m high wall towers high above Lake Antacocha. This place offers a magnificent vantage point of the Cordillera Blanca, especially at sunset. INKA WAQANQA – Situated along the main road to Lima, just past Lake Conococha, this site offers quality rock climbing and bouldering and now counts with some 50 bolted sport climbing routes of all levels. It is the perfect alternative to Hatun Machay, where you can climb safely, in peace and for free! HATUN MACHAY – Located 69km south of Huaraz at 4300m high in the Cordillera Negra, this stunning rocks forest used to be a paradise for rock climbing and bouldering. Unfortunately, since May 2016 the place has been engulfed in a legal conflict between the community that owns the land and the ex-concessionaire, which resulted in many climbing routes being unbolted and the refuge and adjacent buildings being burned down. The place is now under new management that charges visitors a flat S/10 soles for visiting plus a S/15 soles fee per night, yet offering no facilities apart from foilets and running water. Given that none of

Trekking and staying overnight in one of our mountain refuges

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See the middle page for our exact location in Huaraz

Can you name the car manufacturer in this logo quiz?

1 BMW, 2 Ford 3 Honda 4 Infiniti 5 Porsche 6 Rolls Royce 7 Saab 8 Ferrari 9 Subaru 10 Toyota 11 Volvo 12 Bugatti 13 Koenigsegg 14 Lada 15 Hyundai 16 Lancia 17 Lotus 18 Maybach 19 Ginetta 20 Fiat 21 Spyker 22 Proton 23 Holden 24 DeLorean 25 Skoda 26 Seat 27 McLaren28 Marcos 29 Morgan 30 Scion

Writers Wanted

Like in the previous editions of The Huaraz Te l e g r a p h , we will share the better jokes found on Facebook and the Internet. If you found some you like, send them to us so we can share them with our readers in the next edition of this paper.

We are looking for people with some spare time who would like to contribute by writing an article for The Huaraz Telegraph to be published in 2018. Contact us by email and become part of the team!

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