The Huaraz Telegraph
ue iss 25 . r n
Founded in 2012
Made in Huaraz
July 2017
A mere two years ago, Hatun Machay, a rock forest located in the Cordillera Negra between Huaraz and Lake Conococha, used to be a very popular rock climbing, hiking, historical and cultural paradise. However, because of disputes between the local community and the Argentine former administrator, the place is now considered unsafe for tourists. To make matters worse, a new dispute has now emerged. Rosario Pilar Obregón Domínguez, a female psychologist from Huaraz declared to the local press two months ago to be the new concessionaire despite the fact that the site faces legal problems. On top of this, some Huaraz community members were declared persona non grata and as a result, these people have been permanently denied access to Hatun Machay. Additionally, these people also have received numerous written threats through Facebook. In this edition you will read a summary of happenings in the past and current situation in Hatun Machay. Sadly, we have come to the conclusion that it is not safe for tourists to visit Hatun Machay.
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The piteous downfall of Hatun Machay
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On top of the world
Jr. San Martin 1213 Huaraz
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After previously having summited Dhaulagiri in 2014, Manaslu in 2015, and Cho-Oyu in 2016, Víctor Rimac from Huaraz managed to conquer the highest mountain in the world. Víctor became the fourth Peruvian Pizzería and third person from Huaraz. At 31 years of age, he also became the Av. Centenario 351 - Independencia youngest Peruvian to achieve this great feat. We asked Víctor how he felt and about his next adventures. Tel: 221542 or 943627749
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Ever wondered why Mount Alpamayo near Huaraz is called the most beautifull mountain in the world? We spoke with the first Peruvian conquerer of the Mont Blanc in France and found out that the now 93-year-old César Morales Arnao was the main promotor behind the election of Mount Alpamayo because of a photograph he sent.
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César Morales (93) explains how in 1966, Alpamayo got nicknamed ´The most beautiful mountain in the world´
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The Editorial
The Huaraz Telegraph freely available! The Huaraz Telegraph is available for free at the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. We do not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral. We have, however, only listed those hostels where our target audience is able to read our paper and thus we are very proud to announce that around 50 lodging services in and around Huaraz are happy to provide its guests with multiple editions of The Huaraz Telegraph.
The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
Celebrating our 25th edition since our launch in 2012 Greetings dear readers, thank you for picking up the 25th edition of The Huaraz Telegraph. Publishing news on our website is easy but creating the printed version of The Huaraz Telegraph is very challenging, especially the first edition of every year. We want our paper to be free, so that tourists visiting our city can pick it up in the better hostels and hotels while they enjoy their stay. This year proved to be difficult for most businesses related to tourism in Huaraz. At the beginning of March, northern Peru was struck by some of the worst natural disasters in the past 20 years. Thousands of Peruvians lost their belongings, houses and even family members. Landslides cut off the access roads towards Huaraz, and for over a week people were stuck. No one could get in or out, unless they were willing to pay an overpriced fare with LC Perú Airlines. The result of these natural disasters is that many hoteliers received cancellations and this had an effect on their profits, and therefore their marketing budgets. This is also the main reason that this year we will not produce four printed editions, only three. Selling the ads is the most difficult part of making The Huaraz Telegraph, it is not only time consuming; it is a pain in the ass for our editor to go knocking on doors knowing that there is little budget available. However, we are delighted to announce that most businesses that backed us in previous years continue to do so. Sadly, every year there´s a couple of them dropping out for different reasons, but despite Huaraz being a very small market, there´s also a couple of new ones who recognise our hard work and decent reputation we have gained over the years. Like all the others that have gone before, this edition has cost sweat and tears, but I am proud of having managed to bring it on the market again. Taking all the above into account, please do me a huge favour and visit the businesses that have put their trust in our hands by buying an advertisement. Try to read our newspaper at those places so the owner will know that their purchase is having an effect. My gratitude will be immense. Rex Broekman (Founder and editor in chief) Would you like to join our team or fancy sharing your story, or maybe you would like to help us expand, please feel free to contact us for more information.
Para propietarios de hoteles y hostales en nuestra ciudad: En el caso que hemos excluido su establecimiento, nuestras disculpas. Por favor, póngase en contacto con el Huaraz Telegraph para asegurarse que sea mencionada en la próxima edición de nuestro periódico gratuito. About the editor of The Huaraz Telegraph Rex Broekman (34) was born in the Netherlands and is living in Huaraz since 2007. During this time he has taught English at the Language Centre of the National University of UNASAM, and to psychology, computer information systems´, civil engineering and architecture students at the San Pedro University in Huaraz. He holds a degree in marketing and is about to finish an additional degree in education at the San Marcos University in Lima. Mr. Broekman founded the newspaper in 2012, and since March 2014 he also works as news anchor of the programme El Informativo at channel three (Mon-Fri 7pm) at Cable Andino in Huaraz. Derecho de autor y deposito legal (esp.)
Descargo de responsabilidad (esp.)
Telegraph® es una marca registrada en el INDECOPI. Todos los artículos actuales y anteriores son propiedad y son reclamados por The Huaraz Telegraph y no pueden ser reproducidas por ningún medio sin permiso escrito del Telegraph®. Derecho de autor general sobre todos los contenidos, composición y diseño por The Huaraz Telegraph, Huaraz, Perú - © 2012 – 2017. Hecho el depósito legal: 2013-007727
Nosotros nos sentimos muy orgullosos de comunicar que los artículos publicados son escritos por nosotros o por nuestros lectores. En comparación, existen muchas revistas en circulación en la ciudad y ellas no sobresalen en originalidad porque la gran mayoría de sus artículos vienen de línea recta del internet. Nuestros artículos son originales y con temas interesantes tratamos de llamar la atención del lector. Los textos publicados en The Huaraz Telegraph tienen una finalidad meramente informativa y entretenida. Los artículos publicados en esta edición de ninguna manera tienen la intención de molestar o herir a nadie y simplemente reflejan la opinión de los autores sobre sus experiencias (profesionales) en ciertos eventos, a ciertos comportamientos o hábitos de nuestra sociedad. En el caso que tiene dudas o preguntas, puede dirigirse directamente a nuestro editor.
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017 Here is a brief roundup of some of the most important happenings in the tourism sector. Entrance fees for National Park Huascaran go through the roof next year THT was informed about the new entrance fees for the National Park Huascaran and this is bad news for climbing fanatics that visit the Huaraz area. According to the Legal Technical Report No 030-2016-SERNANP/DGANPOAJ of December the 28th, 2016 from the management of Natural Protected Areas and of the Office of Legal Advice of the National Service of Natural Areas Protected by the State, and published in nationwide newspaper El Peruano, the new entrance fees will come into effect from the 1st of January 2018. The Servicio Nacional de Áreas Naturales Protegidas por el Estado (SERNANP) will divide visitors of protected areas in Peru into four groups. National and international tourists will pay 30 soles for a day ticket, 60 soles for a multiple- or three-day ticket, but hikers will have to pay 150 soles. Locals pay half the price and children under the age of 5 and people over 65 years of age are exempt. The new entrance fees apply for all national protected areas and national parks such as Tingo Maria, Bahuaja Sonene, Yanachaga Chemillen, Manu and Huascarán. But also for popular places such as the Islas Ballestas, the Palomino Islands, the Pómac Forest Historical Sanctuary and the Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary. The publication in El Peruano states that the headquarters of the SERNANP may apply promotional rates in certain periods, with the objective of promoting domestic tourism, in accordance with articles 34 and 41 of Law No. 29408, General Law on Tourism. The entrance free for the park used to be 65 soles for an overnight stay. The Parque Nacional Huascarán was created in 1975 and two years later it was declared a Biosphere Reserve by Unesco. In 1985 the organisation included the Huascaran National Park in the list of Natural Heritage. Within its boundaries there are about 660 glaciers and 300 glacial lakes, so informs the National Service of Protected Natural Areas by the State. The park nowadays, however, is threatened by global warming and illegal extraction of silver and zinc. Laguna 69 is the most destination on Instagram
popular
Peru is a diverse country that offers a lot to local and foreign tourists alike. Busbud, a platform for online reservations and sale of passenger tickets, has produced a list of the most popular Peruvian destinations on Instagram. Daniel Pombo, Manager of Strategic Alliances for Peru and Latin America at Busbud, identified which sites have the highest number of hashtags on Instagram using the name of popular places and the destination type of TripAdvisor through every department of Peru. It will probably not be a surprise that Machu
Brief Local News Picchu is the most popular location, with over 500,000 hashtags. The district of Miraflores in Lima is second, just under 300,000 hashtags. The archeological site of Chan Chan is third, Lake Titicaca fourth, the Colca Cañon in Arequipa fifth, followed by the Green Lake in San Martín.
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A dream place in the heart of the Andes
Kuélap is the most popular destination in the Amazonas district and the Ballestas Islands (Islas Ballestas) are the most hashtagged place in the Ica department. These are a group of small islands composed largely of rock formations near the town of Paracas located within the Paracas District. Surprisingly, the ancient geoglyphs in the Nazca Desert, in southern Peru are not on the list, giving the impression that the Ballestas Islands are a more popular destination because both attractions are in the Ica department. In the Ancash department, Laguna 69 is the most popular destination. This lake is located within the National Park Huascaran and is a spectacular day hike from Huaraz that can easily achieved. However, this destination is also suffering the negative consequences of its popularity lately. Scandinavian tourist reports being raped by ´brichero´ in Huaraz In the last week of August 2016, a frightened Scandinavian tourist went to the tourist police to report being drugged and raped by a Peruvian man working in the tourism sector. The case was investigated by the District Attorney who started a preliminary investigation that lasted 120 days. In the past, this newspaper has informed its audience about the existence of bricheros and bricheras in our city (as they do exist in all popular places in Peru such as Lima, Cusco, Arequipa, Huanchaco, Máncora, etc.), and this article led to a boycott of The Huaraz Telegraph at one particular hostel and a popular local café. No one can, however, deny the existence of these so-called bricheros and their wrongdoing to tourism in general. Regrettably, this highly delicate case concerns a brichero (whose name we cannot mention for legal reasons) who, as mentioned before, additionally works as a guide in the city of Huaraz. It´s worth mentioning that a quick survey among tourism entrepreneurs about the individual allegedly involved in this rape case revealed that no one was surprised at all. According to information obtained by The Huaraz Telegraph, this individual is frequently seen on the streets accompanied (voluntarily or not) almost exclusively by female foreign tourists. Others informed us that this individual appears to hang out at popular gringo places, where he apparently finds his customers (offering guiding services) and is also employed at a local hostel. Shockingly, we were also informed that this is most likely not the first case of rape this person is involved in but that previous claims were most likely never brought to justice. Interestingly, the suspect was confimred as brichero by the tourist police in Huaraz when we asked about him. Continue reading on page 20
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Mountaineering
The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
Víctor Rímac from Huaraz on top of the world Third time’s a charm! After two unsuccessful attempts to conquer Mount Everest, Victor Rimac Trejo finally managed to set foot on top of the world. Having previously summitted Dhaulagiri in 2014, Manaslu in 2015 and Cho-Oyu in 2016, Mount Everest became the fourth out of the 14 ultraprominent peaks on Earth. In an earlier interview with Víctor, he told us that his passion for mountaineering started with a beautiful girl. Víctor´s brother was a keen climber and mountaineer, and although he always tried to get him to give it a try Víctor just wasn’t interested, until one day he saw a beautiful girl climbing, and that caught his attention and he wanted to join in. A young Victor started rock climbing and soon he discovered that the sport was expensive, so in order to earn money to practice, he first worked as a porter and a cook on expeditions, this also gave him valuable knowledge and experience in understanding the mountains as well as the sport. Later on, there came a time in his life when Victor noticed he had to focus on gaining an education, so the mountaineering took a backseat, and he started studying physiotherapy; this also kept his mother happy. When Victor turned 21, he enrolled on a beginner’s mountain guide course in Casa de Guias. The course gave him the opportunity to climb different routes and mountains, and learn more techniques and so on. The biggest benefit was that Víctor was able to gain experience in the off-season, and this experience has now led to the successful summit of four eightthousanders. We met Víctor three weeks after his successful climb in Nepal and asked him about his experiences. Third try and you finally made it this year, share with us your experience Víctor Well, as you know, in 2014 I started my first expedition to Everest. This was also in April/May, just like this year´s expedition, however, when I was at the first base camp, on the radio we were informed that an avalanche had occurred. This avalanche took the lives of 16 Sherpas and caused a tough situation in Nepal. As your readers might know, to climb Everest, mountaineers have to pay US$ 10,000 entrance fee, not including the expedition costs etcetera. This money is used to pay the labour of the Sherpas and also their insurances in case of any accidents. However, when the deadly avalanche took place, the government didn’t want to pay more than U$ 400 per deceased person. This caused the other Sherpas to proceed to a national strike and they basically blocked the mountain, no one would be able to go up until the problem was solved. They felt insulted and did what they had to do. The Nepalese government on the other hand, got all mountaineers to reuse their entrance ticket, which is normally only valid for one year. My ticket was extended for another five years. I was about to head back to Peru but the day before I had to leave I was lucky enough to find two
The Huaraz Telegraph Víctor Rimac has now summited four out of fourteen of the highest mountains on earth including Mount Everest (photo Facebook VR)
Chinese climbers who were about to do the Dhaulagiri Mountain. I followed them and managed to summit Dhaulagiri. In 2015 I gave Everest another try together with my friend Holmes Pantoja and this was when Nepal was struck by an earthquake that killed nearly 9,000 people and injured nearly 22,000. Later that same year, I was able to conquer Manaslu at 8,163 metres above sea level. Now, in 2017, it was a bit different as I did much preparation during the preseason in the Huaraz area and knew that I would only have one day in Kathmandu. The next day I had another flight Gorakshep, which is 40 minutes hiking from Everest Base Camp. From here I started with other acclimatization climbs, which means going up and down every time between the base camp and camp two. Camp two is the same camp that is used by mountaineers that want to climb Nuptse (7,861 m) and Lhotse (8,516 m). When I was preparing to head for camp three, we were informed that a mountaineer had accidently fallen, and together with a guy from Iran, two Englishmen and two Sherpas we went to search for the body. People that were descending had communicated via radio that they had seen the accident and that´s why we immediately picked up our stuff and went for a search. The six of us knew where to go and that´s when we found the body of Swiss legend and speed climber Ueli Steck. Steck appeared to have fallen while doing an acclimatising climb for an attempt of the Hornbein route on the West Ridge of Everest without supplemental oxygen. There was nothing we could do, he had already passed away. We carried his body a mere 300 metres to a platform
nearby, where it was later collected by helicopter and taken to the capital. Every mountaineer knew Ueli Steck, how did this affect your stay in Nepal? Very though, he was my hero. I think he was one of the few people that have motivated me during these past five years. He inspired me a lot and made me ascend the Huandoy Norte in Peru on my own. Ueli Steck once told me that I could do climbs on my own too. Ueli motivated other climbers with his achievements all around the globe. It´s very hard to adore a person who has motivated and inspired you one day, and the next day you find his body. I believe my world stopped for a moment. It´s like a child that believes in the powers of Superman and goes for a walk through the city, and finds him lifeless lying on the streets. That´s how I felt. Maybe this is not right to say, but as he loved the mountains, it´s where he found his final resting place. It´s a risk we mountaineers all face. Something I have learned over the course of the years is that when you´re ascending mountains, you´re actually acting like a lion tamer. You´re hoping that nothing happens, but despite preparation and being careful, it might still happen. You´re trying to control all risks and trying to do everything as planned, but still. This is maybe where experience comes in. Sometimes you just can’t control nature and have to face the effects. The effect of Ueli´s death was devastating because he was the best in the world, won two Piolet d’Or awards, in 2009 and 2014 and maintained incredible speed records in the Alps and the Himalaya, his achievements are endless. It´s really sad for his family. I
have seen him climb and luckily had the opportunity to meet him in 2014 in Peru. I met him in Cebollapampa (start of the hike to Laguna 69, Mount Pisco etc.) and we chatted for a bit. Meeting Ueli Steck was like meeting Maradona or Messi. That´s how I could describe the moment. Ueli at that time was actually upset because at the park entrance they had denied his access as he didn’t carry his mountaineering certification. We´re talking about the best climber in the world! I remember we talked about mountaineering in Peru and that Ueli was surprised not to have found many professional mountaineers. I said that there were many upcoming generations at the time but that this might take a while. Ueli was also surprised with the lack of interest in general of Peruvians in mountaineering. I think Ueli said this not because he didn’t get the attention he might have deserved, but more in a positive sense of trying to motivate locals to get interested in mountaineering, having such spectacular mountains in the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash. Another interesting quote that I remember is that Ueli was worried about the deglaciation in the Cordillera Blanca. Ueli used to study the areas from books and documentaries and his findings did apparently not concur with the reality. One particularly dry year in Peru was 2013, meaning that there was not much new snow generated during the low season. I also received a couple of tips on mountaineering and training from him. Maybe the most important advice I received is when Ueli said that everything I do outside of mountaineering, is just supplemental. A true mountaineer needs
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017 to be found always in the mountains. Going to the gym to make your legs strong will help, but true mountain experience can only be obtained in the mountains itself. After Ueli´s accident, did you have to flip a switch to continue with your mission? Indeed, I was heading for camp three but after carrying a body at high altitude I felt tired. Maybe I also felt mentality tired and was ´off-line´ for a while. I lowered to the base camp again because didn’t want to stay much longer in camp two. In Everest Base Camp, I needed some time to gather myself because many things were going through my head. Later, I went up towards camp two again, skipping camp one and went straight to camp three, where I spent two nights acclimatising. This is when I went down to Gorakshep again to rest and gain energy. A couple of days later I went to base camp again but the weather was terrible. The weather forecast was also bad and this is when you have to be very patient.
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I am just a simple mountaineer from Huaraz. I don´t think that I am famous to be honest. Fame and ego are very dangerous because they abduct you from the things that really matter such as people you love like family and friends. Víctor Rimac on his fame after Everest
There were many famous mountaineers at that time, such as Azim Gheychisaz from Iran and Yannick Graziani from France, who either had a goal to summit Everest or Lhotse. On the 17th of May I reached camp two again, on the 18th reached camp three and the next day I reached camp four. I had planned to head to the top the next night to reach the summit on the 20th. However, arriving at camp four on the 19th, there was such a terrible and strong wind that this would have been impossible. I was joined in the camp by Austrian Hans Wenzl who had the same goal. The next morning he asked me what I would do and I said to stay another night, whereas Hans and his Austrian partner said to go down. Here at this moment I was asking myself, what is happening? If more experienced people than me are deciding to descend, shouldn’t I do the same? This guy had done over eight eightthousanders but decided to go down. In the evening of the 20th I took the decision to go for it. The ´balcony´ part was really tough because of the lack of oxygen. This is where I drank a soft drink to have a bit of sugar in my system. This gave energy and although my feet felt frozen I managed to overcome the balcony. Then I had to pass the ridge that is very difficult because it’s very narrow and generates a ´traffic jam´, but I knew I had made it. On the top there was a girl from Nepal and her Sherpa and a couple of climbers from Poland as
Mountaineering well. On my pictures you can see a Polish flag in the background. In think I stayed maximum 10 minutes at the top, took seven pictures before heading back down again. I felt very, very tired because of the altitude and lack of oxygen. I descended a lot quicker than most of the other climbers and once lower I started to feel better. At camp four I didn’t have energy to carry on so decided to sleep. The next day I woke up with more energy and was offered a bottle of warm water with sugar by a Sherpa, it was also suggested that I descend as quickly as possible because staying at high altitude could affect your health.
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Despite feeling exhausted, were you able to enjoy that moment when you were on top of the world? Honestly, no not really. I can´t remember I enjoyed getting to the summit, nor the final climb towards it. I guess because you´re tired and worried at the same time, there is not much time to enjoy the achievement itself. Understand that there are many things crossing your mind at that time. When I took the pictures, I only thought of going down and getting safe. Maybe the moment I enjoyed the most was descending from camp four towards camp three. In camp four, I took some rest and was just lying in my sleeping bag and enjoying the view and the fact that I had managed it. For four hours I think I just watched the top of Everest. I felt happy having accomplished my goal. From camp two I headed directly to base camp and I found out that I had become the first person that season that had reached the top of Everest going the Nepal route, without the use of supplemental oxygen. Hans, the Austrian I mentioned earlier, and I met on my way down and I told him I had done it. Hans would finally also make it to the top and would become the second person without the use of supplemental oxygen. I believe it was just the two of use that did that, the Polish expedition team also made it to the top, but they did use supplemental oxygen.
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The next day I flew by helicopter to Dughla and the day after to Kathmandu. The helicopter flight was the only one available and there was a deceased person on the flight too. If I am not mistaken, 10 people have died this climbing season in Nepal. How did you manage to communicate your summit to the outside world and how did people react in Peru? This I did while ascending to Everest Base Camp, I think this was on the 23rd of May. There are a couple of antennae that are provided by the agencies. Here you can connect and get data to use the Internet on your phone. I still felt very tired but communicated to my followers that I had made it and went straight to bed again. Back in Kathmandu, I had to wait for my equipment, which would be delivered back by the agency. I am still surprised with the exposure I generated in newspapers, television programmes and social networks. I cannot believe that mountaineering in Peru could generate so much coverage, Continue reading on page 6
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Mountaineering
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
Continuation of page 5
especially in Lima. Like I always stated in previous interviews, a lack of interest, a lack of support, mountaineering isn´t interesting, etc., etc., that´s how they see our sport in the capital of Peru. However, this is about to change, I hope. On one occasion during an interview I said that to relax, no psychologist is needed, just go to the mountains. When I arrived in Lima, my head sponsor Latam Airlines had organised a press conference at Jorge Chávez International Airport. The next days I was giving interviews and even magazines published on my achievement. I could never have imagined having Magazine Somos (a family magazine launched by Peruvian newspaper El Comercio) run an article about me. Hopefully this will motivate Peruvian youngsters and generate more support for mountaineers as a whole in Peru. All these publications help our sport a lot. I believe I am very happy with all the publications that were released in Peru. It was particularly good news for Huaraz and the department of Ancash. Taking in account the natural disasters that happened earlier this year in the north, corruption scandals by politicians and so on, this might change the tide. Especially now Sport Climbing is one of the eight sports shortlisted for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games additional events (the climbing event will include three disciplines: sport, bouldering and speed). This means Huaraz should take advantage of this because Huaraz should be the Mecca of climbing and mountaineering in South America. I noticed that you paid a visit to the Peruvian Congress a couple of weeks ago. Where you invited? I had been there before, but you get contacted by a congressman or woman and they invite you. This time I was invited by Yonhy Lescano Ancieta from Puno of the Popular Action party and Yesenia Ponce who is congresswoman for the Ancash department. The complete congress awarded me a meritorious acknowledgment and I was accompanied
The Huaraz Telegraph
Víctor Rimac sealing a sponsor deal with Edelweiss in Lima (photo Facebook VR)
by Rafael Figueroa (president of Casa de Guias in Huaraz) and Julio César Maguiña. I received a certificate of honour and had the opportunity to talk to a couple of congressmen who said that they were proud of my achievement. Do you think you have changed as a person now you´re nationally known? Well, I don’t believe much in being famous. Maybe football players are famous because they make millions of dollars during their career. I am just a simple mountaineer from Huaraz. I don´t think that I am famous to be honest. Fame and ego are very dangerous because they abduct you from the things that really matter such as people you love like family and friends. At the moment I haven’t visited all people that I wanted to visit because I am still too busy with the aftermath of my summit. Sometimes you need to work hard and sacrifice things that you like in order to reach higher goals. I remember that I was advised once that people who really try to accomplish something have to make many sacrifices and this is sometimes
99% effort and 1% motivation. I too had to leave things behind that I can´t do anymore because of a different lifestyle I am trying to live. However, I am sure that the future generations of Casa de Guias will be a lot stronger and better than I am at the moment.
it without the use of supplemental oxygen.
I can´t deny that it´s nice to hear from a taxi driver in Huaraz that he heard about my summit or just random people in the street who approach me wanting to have a small chat. It´s important to dream and follow your path and not let people tell you that something can´t be done. I am very conscious and know that there might be a day that I leave for a spectacular peak but will not return. That´s the risk of mountaineering but Victor is still Victor, I believe.
Normally people choose easier ones such as Manaslu, for example. I was asked if I noticed a cross near the top but said that I was too tired probably because hadn’t seen it. As a reply they said that there was no cross, and if I had said I saw one, they would have come to the conclusion I would have been lying. You have to show them pictures, everything. Understand that people have tried to fake summits. If I am not mistaken, a couple from India photo shopped their summit a couple of years ago and were condemned and could not return to Nepal for many years.
On social networks, I have noticed that some people claim that you are the first Peruvian to conquer Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen that has registered his climb. What´s your opinion on this? Well to be honest, yes, there´s a couple of people who have started this discussion. To start, as a mountaineer and mountain guide in Huaraz, I believe we should be more united. On the other hand, whether I was the first or not, I would like to leave this decision to the judges. This is not up to me. Sorry to interrupt, but are you the first? I am the fourth Peruvian to have conquered Mount Everest, but the first to do it without supplemental oxygen. I didn’t use any medicine supplies either. Mr. Augusto Ortega was the first to conquer Everest without supplemental oxygen. You do recognise that Augusto Ortega did it without supplemental oxygen too in 1999?
The Huaraz Telegraph Víctor Rimac and Rafael Figueroa (left) at a press conference in Casa de Guías Huaraz
That´s what he says, so who am I to say he didn’t. If you want, I can set you up with the person in Nepal who is in charge of the register. According to the register in Kathmandu, I am the first Peruvian to do
The people that work at the register write everything down you say and do. I was questioned a couple of years back when I summitted Dhaulagiri because this was my first mountain over 8,000 metres.
If you would ask me how I see pure mountaineering, this is doing climbs from base camp without supplemental oxygen. What we mountaineers are trying to seek is whether our body and psychical condition after many months of preparing and training can handle the task. That´s why one should prepare very well. It’s important to highlight that every person is free to choose whether he would like help of supplemental oxygen or not. It´s like completing the Tour de France with help of a HarleyDavison. Please write down that I have no problem whether people use it or not, I am just telling you what the difference is. Everyone has a choice. Finally, what can you tell our readers about your next mission? I am not sure yet. I will probably go to Asia again next year but most probably to the Karakoram. This is a large mountain range covering the borders of India, Pakistan and China, and it´s home to the four most closely located peaks over 8,000 m such as K2, (8,611 m), Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. It will probably be one of those four, but normally I don’t like to anticipate my expeditions, so you´ll have to wait until next year, haha.
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Have you already visited us? We´re to be found at Parque de Ginebra near the Plaza de Armas and offer all kinds of services like great food and local made craft beer Trece Búhos offers a unique type of homemade brew, but it doesn’t stop there. As far as we know, Lucho´s Beers are the only beers in South America served in swingtop bottles apart from imported beers like Dutch Grolsch. The classic swingtop was invented by Nicolai Fritzner in Germany in 1875. It quickly became the main bottle top for beer bottles worldwide. After only 30 years, the swing-top started to be replaced by the Crown Cap, which was invented by an American called William Painter (1892). The most functional feature of the swing-top bottle is it can be resealed, so the beer inside stays fresh. Another interesting fact is that swing-top bottles are recyclable, energy saving and sustainable.
Trece Búhos opens in the early morning, especially now people are taking advantage of the dry season and using the terrace in front of our establishment, ordering a coffee, waffles with ice-cream, or a good old English cup of tea. But historically ¨13¨ has gained its credits and fame for being the most popular night spot in Huaraz, not in the least because it is open seven days a week. Nowadays 13 Búhos is a fantastic place to spend your evenings or late nights. Four years ago we moved to a new location and now we are able to offer an even bigger set of opportunities during a famous night at 13 Búhos. If you’re sitting in your hostel and reading this at around 11 p.m. don’t hesitate, put on your shoes and come along! The best nights out aren’t planned they just happen! Yours truthfully, Lucho © photos: Eva Valenzuela
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Expat in Áncash
The Peruvian dream
According to the National Institute of Statistics and Informatics (I.N.E.I) 12,187 foreigners entered Peru in 2012 and stayed for over a year. The Huaraz Telegraph is wondering whether these visitors came to see the wonders of Peru, or were they looking for the Peruvian dream? If the American dream is the idea that success is possible for every individual, does the Peruvian dream exist? And if so, can you reach for those ideals on the Latin American continent being an expat? It is fairly easy to spot a tourist in Hua- a year, after one year gringos are considraz, with their tiny day-sacks and camera ered immigrants in the Republic of Peru, around their necks, whereas expats blend be it legal or illegal. in; they adapt to the local way of life. But what motivates a person to uproot their en- There is no denying that the number of tire lives, and leave their family and friends immigrants has increased over the years to go and live on another continent? Over and between 2007 and 2012 there were the course of the season The Huaraz Tele- 55,616 immigrants representing 62.3% of graph will endeavour to interview expats all registered immigrants in the analysis living in Huaraz, to give the readers an period of 1994 to 2012. To make a small insight into why they decided to do just comparison, in the last six years measured that. But first let’s look at some interesting concern over 50.0% of the immigrants statistics. Although the following national from the period of analysis. The period bestats are accurate there is no statistical in- tween the years 2001 – 2006 represented formation on how many foreigners live in 18,499 incoming foreigners representing the Áncash region. 20.7% of all registered immigrants during the study period, while the years 1994 to In the period from 1994 to 2012, there 2000 represent 17.0% of total registered were 89,320 registered foreigners resid- immigrants. The number of foreign immiing in Peru that did not leave the country. grants in Peru has a greater dynamism Between 1994 and 2004 the number of in the last years of the study. Until 2003 foreigners entering Peru did not exceed foreign immigrants did not exceed 20,000, 3,500, and between 2004 and 2006 the this number doubles in 2007 becoming number of foreigners living in Peru did 40,446, and in 2012 the number of foreign not exceed 5000. From 2007 the number immigrants in Peru rose to 89,320. increased to over 6,000 and in 2012 that number had risen to a staggering 12,187. Dividing the entry of foreign immigrants It´s important to mention that, even though into different periods (in years) and having Peru has a law stating that visitors can the estadisticas de la emigración internationly stay up to a maximum of 183 days cional de peruanos e inmigración de ex-
The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
tranjeros 1990-2012 in hand, one can see that the average annual immigration per period is becoming a growing trend during the last three periods, except from 2001 to 2003. On average, only 2,357 people crossed the border into Peru between 2001 and 2003. Between 1994 and 2012 the annual average is 4,701 surpassing this in the last two periods 2007-2009 and 2010-2012, reaching average immigration figures from 7,420 and 11,118 respectively, the latter being six times higher than the average income of foreign immigrants of the first period (1994-1997). When analysing the gender of the newcomers it´s remarkable that the population of males is by far bigger than the opposite sex. Men represent 66.8% of the immigrants while only 29,636 (33.2%) are female. Since 1994, men have represented more than 60% of the immigration population, but in 2012 they reached 70.9%. In the document found on the I.N.E.I website the distribution of foreign migrants is also represented by age group. A chart shows that the predominant age group is the 30 to 34 year-olds representing 12.2 % of all immigrants. Immigrants from 35 to 39 years of age characterise 12.1 % during the period from 1994 to 2012. This is followed by the 40 to 44 years old with 11.2%, continued by the group of 25 – 29 years old (10.7%). On the other hand, the highest percentage of immigrants are aged from 15 to 49, representing 68.2 % of all immigrants. Looking at the gender population pyramid, the concentration is in the middle, being narrower at the base and that there is an increase in the first and last group. Immi-
grants aged under 15 count for 6.8% and are distributed almost evenly between men (3.7 %) and women (3.1%). People older than 59 years of age represent 10.3% and are distributed between 6.3% men and 4.0% women. Of the total number of 83,628 immigrants over 14 years of age, 33.7% are declared to be single whereas 199 people are said to be widowed, and 98 are divorced. Between 1994 and 2012, 89,320 foreigners were considered to be new residents of Peru without any migration movement noticed and just before the document starts to talk about the country of origin, it mentions that 69,277 people (representing 77.6%) have come to Peru by air, entering the country at Jorge Chavez National Airport. A small 8.6% entered from the south in Tacna (Santa Rosa), 2.3% from Bolivia (Desaguadero), and a 1.4% came from the north, crossing the border from Ecuador at Aguas Verdes. A total of 3,378 (3.7%) arrived at the harbour of Callao (probably shipwrecked and unable to return home). The authors of the report declare that there exists a strong concentration of regional immigrants referring to 31.6% of foreigners coming from Latin American countries such as Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. Americans (from the USA) with 12.4% are the biggest group of newcomers, followed by the Chinese with 9.3% and Bolivians with 7.8%. As you just have read, you will need to stay in Peru for over a year to qualify for the status of immigrant. This is also the main condition for our interviewee plus the fact that he or she should live in Áncash. In our nineteenth version of the Peruvian Dream we have interviewed one of the two Dutch people living in Huaraz. A mere 10 years ago, there were around eight Dutch living in Huaraz (including some long-term volunteers) but at the moment, our editor and our interviewee are the only ones. Are you an expat who`s living in the department of Ancash too? Please contact us for an interview of to see if you could contribute to our newspaper in some way. 1. Who are you? I am Dirk Wolkers, and I am from the Netherlands. I am 59 years old and have two kids. I was born in Amsterdam and always lived in the area of the river Zaan (Zaanstreek in Dutch). 2. What’s your profession? In the Netherlands I worked as an IT manager at a big accounting company. Here in Huaraz I make cookies (in Dutch stroopwafels, syrup waffles). 3. How long have you been living in Huaraz?
All statistics on Peruvian international emigration and foreign immigation by the I.N.E.I on: http://www.inei.gob.pe/media/MenuRecursivo/publicaciones_digitales/Est/Lib1102/libro.pdf
I have lived in Huaraz now for almost eight Continue reading on page 10
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Heinrich Bosshard is in his sixties and a heavy equipment mechanic, but in Huaraz he is known at El Tío Enrique. El Tio Enrique is a brand-new establishment selling all sorts of different chorizos (sausages), Swiss chocolates, authentic Swiss knives and Glühwein (mulled wine). His huge and fantastic fridge filled with imported European beers make Enrique´s secondfloor place a must visit after you have conquered some peaks in the Andes. El Tío Enrique is open from 5p.m. and offers you a whole variety of Belgian, German, English and even Peruvian beers, such as London Pride, Old Speckled Hen, Paulaner, Erdinger, La Guillotine, Duvel, and Lima´s craft beer Barbarian. Check our beer list on the right-hand side of this page and make sure you come and try those malt liquors that are specially imported for tourists in Huaraz.
The specialty of the former titleholder of the former Monte Rosa Inca Pub is without a doubt his delicious sausages, but, there is a lot more on offer. Another dish not to miss is Argentine beef. Those wanting something lighter before boarding their bus could choose the antipasto. Antipasto literally means “before the meal”, and is the traditional first course of a formal Italian meal. The dish served at El Tio Enrique includes cured meats, olives, fresh cheese and sausages.
house is Glühwein (mulled wine). Also worth a shot (or a glass in this case) are some specially imported liqueurs such as Disaronno Originale (28% abv), which is made in Italy. It is amarettoflavored, with a characteristic bittersweet almond taste. How about Jägermeister? This is a German digestif made with 56 herbs and spices and is 35% alcohol by volume. For those who prefer nonalcoholic beverages, there is also coffee, tea, cappuccino and espresso coffee. El Tío Enrique recommends in every edition two exclusively imported foreign beers. Take your changes because if you´re going north after Huaraz, there is no other place in Peru where you can find such an exclusive artisanal of beers. Sláinte! El Tío Enrique is located only two blocks from bus companies such as Línea Transportes and Cruz del Sur, and is around the corner from Nova Plaza. The central location makes it a convenient stop during a night out at the surrounding discothèques or bars. While enjoying your beer, don’t forget to ask about Carne seca (dried meat, in Spanish), which is a kind of dried beef and ideal to take with you while heading out for the mountains. When you meet Elena, ask her about her pudding desserts, absolutely sweet and recommended after a cheese fondue, for example. There is also literature for visitors.
In terms of drinks, apart from a spectacular beer menu, Make sure you´re hungry and thirsty when the second-floor establishment offers different Chilean, visiting us and we´ll make sure that you will have a wonderfull evening at a very special place. Argentinian and Peruvian wines, but the specialty of the
Erdinger Weissbier ’dark’ is a rich and smooth wheat beer specialty from Erdinger Weissbräu. It owes its full-bodied flavour to the fine hops and dark malt used in its production. A wheat beer specialty brewed according to an age-old recipe
Delirium Tremens: the colour is golden and the head creamy and light, the first sip warms the throat and belly like an old woodstove does a log cabin. Delirium is lightly hopped and surprisingly malty for such an airy, sunshine beer
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Expat in Áncash
10 Continuation of page 8
years. 4. What brought you to Huaraz? Well, I had visited Peru on many occasions prior to my permanent move here. The first time was in 2006. I once met a Dutch guy called Guido who used to live in Huaraz and visited him a couple of times. I did some trekking and things but I had to go back to the Netherlands for work. Eventually I received an email that there would be some work opportunities in Huaraz, so I packed my bags and here I am. I ended up managing California Café in Huaraz. 5. How has your life changed over the years? Quite a lot to be honest, and in several respects. I believe that I am living a much more basic lifestyle. In the Netherlands, I lived a practical, forward-thinking and efficient life. Here I have found, or maybe I should say searched for a more spiritual lifestyle. You´re living for the day in Peru; you don’t live to work, you work to live. I am not materialistic, so I have a lot more freedom. The stoopwafel business was, and still is, a challenge. I am not a chef, and I know nothing about cooking –– frying an egg is probably the best I can do. This said, however, after managing the café I mentioned before, I wanted to do something for myself, so I brought a waffle iron to make the cookies, and with the help of my Belgian friend Kristof (former owner of restaurant Mi Chef Kristof), we were able to create a waffle. This is still my main source of income. Honestly, without the help of Kristof I wouldn’t have been able to create
The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
the product. Kristof is a true artist. It´s not exactly the stroopwafel as people might know it in the Netherlands; however, I am sure that I am the only stroopwafel baker running their business at 3,000 metres above sea level. I am proud of my product, with or without help, it´s a Dutch product and it makes me feel good. 6. What are your favourite hangout spots in Huaraz? That would be my hammock. I don’t go out that much, but like to drink a coffee at Trece Búhos in the morning, or at Andino. When money is running out at the end of the month, I head to the Soledad area. There´s a small café/coffee bar that I like a lot. I believe it´s called Naturandes. They serve coffee with apple pie for as little as five soles. Another hangout spot would be the river and bridges over the Rio Quillcay. I love to walk along the boulevard. You won’t find me hanging around the Plaza de Armas, although I like to make a couple of rounds along the main street Luzuriaga. I like the pizzas of Buona Pizza but, like I said before, my hammock is where I like to be the most. I sometimes visit Creperie Patrick for a coffee and like to chat to Tío Enrique for a momento or so. 7. What is it you miss the most from back home? I go back once a year to the Netherlands, usually around Christmas to see my kids. My kids are what I miss the most. My oldest son Stefan is 30 years old, and my youngest son Marcel is 28. I don’t miss the Netherlands as a country. I have changed my point of view maybe. It´s a very much a developed country, but I am happy with my life here in Huaraz. In terms of prod-
The number of immigrants in Peru is growing by the year (I.N.E.I. stats)
ucts, I miss liquorice (drop in Dutch), Dutch cheese, typical split pea soup and soused herring. 8. What is it you like most about Huaraz? I think that what´s especially nice is that you can buy many things from street vendors. I know the municipality tries to prohibit ambulatory sales but I like it. I think it´s typical of Huaraz. I have been to Chachapoyas and there it´s completely forbidden. Here in Huaraz you can see and chat to the campesinos (peasants) trying to make some money selling their vegetables, herbs and fruits. I think it´s also interesting for tourists actually. Huaraz is a commercial city. Previously I said that you won´t find me at the Plaza de Armas, but some development is on its way. It´s a
The Huaraz Telegraph Dirk Wolkers from the Netherlands is making typical Dutch stroopwafels in Huaraz
shame that the main square doesn’t have any cafés, restaurants or pubs around it (like Cusco and Arequipa). Luzuriaga itself as a main street is nice to walk through but it needs improving. The best thing about Huaraz is the outskirts. You can make a city as fancy as you wish but it could never beat nature. I adore nature and making hikes in the surrounding areas of Huaraz. I don’t think Huaraz needs a shopping mall. Huaraz should focus on city development and they should start by shutting off Luzuriaga to traffic and make it accessible for pedestrians. They could open it between 8 and 10 so the shops can be supplied but that´s it. Install places to sit like benches, a lot of plants and trees, and the city will start to look a lot different. This will not only be interesting for tourists, but also for the locals. 9. What’s your opinion of the tourist business in Huaraz? It´s a pity Huaraz hasn’t developed its tourism sector. Culturally speaking, I think no one has a clue what´s going on. Same case with its history. I know there´s a museum near the Plaza de Armas but I believe the lack of promotion is why almost no one goes there. This is a difficult question actually. I never use the local tour agencies because I prefer to organise everything on my own. There are many agencies in Huaraz but they´re not paying enough attention to their customers. Tourism is an important sector for a city such as Huaraz, although it´s only for a couple of months. I believe to have read or heard once that Huaraz 30 years ago used to be the third most popular city in terms of tourists´ visits and now it´s like number 46, something has gone wrong. Something must be done because the potential is there. I think the lack of promotion is key. Huaraz is not a pretty city to hangout in. If someone were to ask me, ´hey I have a day off, what would you recommend me to do´, I wouldn’t know where to send them. Go for a coffee is what I would say.
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017 There is also a lack of city development in terms of opportunities. Most tourism entrepreneurs are making their money thanks to the beauty around us such as the mountains. However, they could offer something together within the city, something cultural or historical. The mountains are here, so they could start focusing on the city. Although I have to say that the access roads to the most popular sites are terrible. These should be improved but without harming nature.
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It´s a pity Huaraz hasn’t developed its tourism sector. Culturally speaking, I think no one has a clue what´s going on. Same case with its history. Dirk Wolkers on Huaraz
10. What sites or activities do you recommend (or not) to our readers? Wow! It depends a lot on what you want and what you can do. I like hiking a lot but as I am getting older, I have to listen to my body. I feel that some things aren’t possible anymore. To start, it´s important for tourists to get very well informed before heading off. When people like to do mountaineering, they have loads of easy or difficult options in this area. Laguna 69 has become the most popular day hike during the past five years, but expect many tourists on the trail. If tourists prefer a quieter trail, I could recommend going to Lake Shallap, which is a bit lower compared to 69 but still 4,250 metres above sea level. I believe Rataquenua is one of the places where tourists should be careful, but when doing it as a group it should be OK. In general, it´s dangerous doing hikes in the mountains, rock falls are a big problem. Laguna Churup is steep but a nice hike. Also nice and nearby are the Willcahuaín Ruins, ending the hike at Laguna Ahuac (4,560 m), which offers a nice overview of Huaraz. A night trip to Punta Callán may be interesting too. Make sure to bring breakfast and a juice so you can enjoy the sunrise. I understand that the District of Independencia (crossing one of the bridges in town and heading north) has opened a couple of new trails in the Cordillera Negra. And, I almost forget, for sure the Huayhuash circuit. 11. If you were to become the Mayor of Huaraz one day, what would you do or change?
Expat in Áncash
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Well, part of my answer I have already given, as I would develop the city centre by shutting off the main street. It bothers me that cars seem to be so important in Huaraz. Cars are nothing more than just human tools. These should be subservient. I would try to convert the Plaza de Armas into an entertainment area, with more restaurants and there should be music too. Its appearance now is far too business focused, with many banks and financial institutions. Green would be the keyword of my campaign. Many parks in and around the city have been upgraded or improved, but what you see is only concrete and hardly any flowers, plants or trees. I would focus on maintenance as well; for example, the pedestrian crossings in Huaraz are hardly visible and this creates unsafe situations. Every driver in town should have to retake the exam for their driver’s license and get a special course dedicated to respecting other traffic participants. It makes me sad seeing the elderly and children that are scared to cross the street because they fear cars. I would focus on tourism as well. I believe the town council can´t be bothered with tourism at the moment. Another thing that I would do different is the treatment of street vendors. True, this is an important topic and source of income, but I believe it´s rude and incorrect to pick people off the street, as they are doing now. Finally, I would try to control the growth of buildings. Locals are building higher and higher and this kills the city image. 12. Are you living the Peruvian dream (explain)? I am not living the Peruvian dream, but you could say that I am living my dream. I finally ended up in Peru, but this could easily have been any other country in the world. I have a lot of freedom and don’t have the obligation to work from 9 to 5 every day. Not having to worry about insurances, car or a broken TV is priceless. I determine my life; no one else is in charge. 13. How do you see your future in Peru? Look, this is one of the things I have learned not to speculate on. There´s a song by Nicaraguan singer Luis Enrique called Yo no sé mañana (English: I don’t know tomorrow). This is exactly how I try to live my life. To answer your question, I haven’t got a clue. If I die tomorrow, I die. End of story. Where can people buy your stoopwafels Dirk? Well at many places in town, actually. My galletas are available in two sizes, small and big. People should go to Don Queso, Market Ortiz, Rosa Rosita, Albergue Churup, Chilli Heaven, Buona Pizza, Hotel Santa Cruz and Tío Enrique. People could also contact me on Facebook.
VISIT: WWW.THEHUARAZTELEGRAPH.COM
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Rock Climbing
The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
The lost destination of the rock forest of Hatun Machay A mere two years ago, Hatun Machay, a rock forest located in the Cordillera Negra between Huaraz and Lake Conococha, used to be a very popular rock climbing, hiking, historical and cultural paradise. However, because of disputes between the local community and the Argentine former administrator, the place is now considered unsafe for tourists. To make matters worse, a new dispute has now emerged. Rosario Pilar Obregón Domínguez, a female psychologist from Huaraz declared to the local press two months ago to be the new concessionaire despite the fact that the site faces legal problems. On top of this, some Huaraz community members were declared persona non grata and as a result, these people have been permanently denied access to Hatun Machay. Additionally, these people also have received numerous written threats through Facebook. What follows is a summary of the past and current situation in Hatun Machay and according to our findings we have come to the conclusion that it is not safe for tourists to visit Hatun Machay. In June 2006 the community of Pampas Chico and agency Andean Kingdom E.I.R.L represented at the time by Andrés Saibene, signed a testimony of the public deed of mutual agreement that offered the agency an assignment of exclusive use of tourist exploitation throughout the area of Hatun Machay for eight years, from 2006 to mid2014. The community, on the other hand, had the exclusivity to charge a reasoned and balanced entrance fee to each tourist who visited the area. The twelve-page contract also indicated that the agency was authorised by the community to build a lodge, whose possession would be handed over through a formal act by the president of the community. The construction of the lodge and other activities should be undertaken by local community members, who would be employed by the agency. The agency also had to offer a space for community to sell their goods within the premises of the lodge. The agency was also obligated to bring tourists to the area of Hatun Machay and maintain and keep the area clean. The agency was also to participate in the conservation of the area, provide sanitary services to visitors and offering surveillance and conservation of the archaeological zones in Hatun Machay. In 2013 the site was part of the Festival del Andinismo and attracted famous climbers such as Toti Vales and Edu Marin from Spain. Hatun Machay was mentioned in many guidebooks, such as in Lonely Planet´s guidebook for Peru and The Huaraz Climbing Guide, and, additionally, it was featured in various ads from famous brands such as Adidas and The North Face. It grew to be a renowned site that attracted tourists from all corners of the world, thus becoming a prosperous tourist attraction. However, at the end of the contract in 2014 and after a couple of presidency changes in the community, the community members claimed that Saibene had not met all the contract terms. As a result, the contract would not be extended and the community made clear that they would start running the place. Between 2014 and mid-2015, the refuge was still run by Saibene, who refused to leave the premises. On Saturday, June the 18th, 2015, the rural community of Pampas Chico held a meeting where they decided under guidance of their (now former) president Manuel Danzarin Mendoza to give an ultimatum of 15 days to Argentine Huaraz resident Saibene
to vacate his lodge and to stop charging admission for access to the rock forest. The community stated that they would take the administration of the lodge in their own hands and the District Municipality of Pampas Chico would become responsible for promoting and revaluating the main tourism circuits around the area. During a participatory budget meeting held at the District Municipality of Pampas Chico, different communities declared to seek to prioritise tourism in the area, making their district more attractive for tourism. A week later, The Huaraz Telegraph was contacted by Saibene who stated that there was no such thing as a 15-day ultimatum. On his Facebook page, he stated that on that particular Saturday, there was indeed a meeting in the lodge at the rock forest where the community wanted to renew the existing contract, but that an agreement was not reached. Saibene also said that he no longer wanted to charge entrance fees to Hatun Machay, as the community of Pampas Chico should take care of that job and let the money flow into its own economy. In the contract we obtained, it states that the community actually agreed to take charge of collecting the entrance fee money since 2006; however, for some reason they never did. Saibene further stated that there was no legal way to remove him from the land unless at least his investment and work were recognised [financially compensated]. At this point in 2015, according to the Argentinean, there was no type of discussion whatsoever between both parties, and the community came to the conclusion that they would renegotiate an extension of the deal; however, a new deal was never signed. Additionally, Saibene said to have filmed
The Huaraz Telegraph Interior of the refuge in 2016, credits picture The Huaraz Climbing Guide
the whole assembly with the community. A year later, in 2016, the situation got out of control. Saibene denounced the Pampas Chico community at the Recuay prosecutor’s office for alleged robbery and theft of his belongings he had stored in a room at the lodge. This alleged robbery and theft is also mentioned in a copy of the criminal complaint The Huaraz Telegraph obtained in 2017. The complaint reads that Saibene ostensibly became the victim of aggravated robbery, losing equipment, drills, ropes, harnesses and climbing shoes. On the 14th of June, 2016, between 02:30 and 03:30pm, the Argentinean was denied access to his lodge. During that same week, Saibene was given 24 hours to leave the place and to take all his belongings with him. In July 2016, the authors of The Huaraz Climbing Guide paid a visit to Hatun Machay and came back with some interesting findings on the most important climbing site in the Huaraz region. The authors stated on their Facebook page that although the atmosphere at the site was good at that particular time, the state of the climbing routes was not, as there were approximately 28 to 32 unequipped climbing routes (the great majority being the easiest, most used routes), where apart from the bolts being removed, the expansive bolts were destroyed too. Many
The Huaraz Telegraph One of the huts at Hatun Machay which was set on fire earlier this year
people speculated at the time that the lodge had been burned, but the authors noticed that the lodge was actually in good condition, nothing had been burned other than a small part of the wooden floor on the ground floor, but furniture had been removed and the toilet blocks had been destroyed once again. The authors also found out that at the time, the community were charging tourists 8 soles to enter Hatun Machay. At the beginning of this year, rumours circulated that the lodge had been burned again and that the climbing routes, which had been previously unbolted, were left with damaged bolts, thus posing a potential danger to climbers. Local climber Beto Pinto Toledo went to Hatun Machay and confirmed the lodge was burned and mattresses, beds, the stove, kitchen and toilet/shower facilities were all destroyed or were no longer usable. Pinto Toledo confirmed that because numerous climbing routes were unbolted and that others were left with damage, it would not be safe for tourists to climb in the area. Additionally, he confirmed that on the 6th January the community granted Rosario Pilar Obregón Domínguez the management of the site. On April the 27th, Pinto Toledo received a notarial letter in which Obregón demanded the rectification of the interview given on Cable Andino for the reason of having declared ‘unadjusted versions of truth’. When The Huaraz Telegraph published the video of the interview on their Facebook page, Obregón reacted furiously, unfairly accusing us of defamation. An allegation that made no sense at all, as all statements given by Pinto Toledo were backed up by video images. On April the 21st, our newspaper published an article in which we questioned the appearance of controversial flyers promoting activities at Hatun Machay. We were shown some surprising flyers of Hatun Machay that were displayed inside a couple of tourist shops in Huaraz. These flyers showed the (new) entrance fees for the Hatun Machay Rock Forest
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017 and a couple of contact details, but it did not show clearly who the person behind this initiative was. The appearance of the flyer was highly unexpected because our newspaper was informed only earlier that week by Saibene that as long as the legal case he has started against the Pampas Chico Community would not be resolved, no one can use the lodge he built with his own money, nor can they manage the place. The flyers, however, indicated a list of prices for camping, staying overnight in the lodge and day visits. People willing to camp had to pay 10 soles and staying in the refuge (which was at the time and still is completely unusable) would cost 30 soles per night and a visit for a day 10 soles. Additionally, the flyers also indicated that guides would be obliged to demonstrate their guiding license, otherwise they would be charged like tourists, and that no one would be allowed entrance without an official ID. This publication by The Huaraz Telegraph once again infuriated Obregón who questioned our acting and threatened us though messages on social networks. In May of this year, Obregón finally openly claimed to be the new concessionaire of Hatun Machay and spoke to the local press (except us of course) announcing that the rock forest of Hatun Machay had officially reopened to visitors on the 29th of May. According to the psychologist a couple of new disciplines such as slackline and cross-country running were to be offered to tourists. Obregón said in her declarations to the press that the community of Catac would also be part of her administration and that this new period will be better than the previous administration. However, Obregón did not specify for how long she has been granted the concession. In an online article, Obregón explained the reason why she got involved in Hatun Machay. She basically said that ´voices´ told her to administrate Hatun Machay. She recalled: “I remember that I got up and, wanting to leave my tent; a woman’s voice told me “get up and work”. I then started to connect, to ask people what I could do to help them, how to rent the place. That´s how everything began a year ago. That voice, I do not know if it were the mountains, a virgin or the patroness of the place, but I know it was a woman.” Although Obregón in her recent interview with the local press said she did not have any problems with the preceding administrator and that there will be no restrictions for visitors, her actions on Facebook tell a different story. On the 14th of May, she stated that five people in Huaraz were declared ´persona non grata´, three foreigners, including a reporter (this must be us!) and two Peruvians, meaning that these five persons are not allowed to visit Hatun Machay. One of the Peruvians in question appears to be mountain guide Beto Pinto Toledo, another player in this conflict is the aforementioned Argentine citizen Andrés Saibene and it is likely that the other two persona non grata are the owners of local travel agency Quechuandes, who, after being written to on a regular basis by foreign climbers wondering about the situation in Hatun Machay, have openly spoken out about the conflict going on there. Additionally, in the last week of May, our newspaper was contacted by Saibene as
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The Huaraz Telegraph Hatun Machay in 2013 with the refuge on the right, the rock forest in the middle and shower and toilet facilities on the left
he wanted to hand over some documents related to the dispute around Hatun Machay. The Huaraz Telegraph obtained a copy of a criminal complaint which was filed by Saibene against Rosario Del Pilar Obregón Dominguez on the 30th of May. The latter being accused of being the author of usurpation and damages of the lodge at the rock forest of Hatun Machay. The criminal complaint was presented at the criminal prosecution of Recuay. The former administrator of Hatun Machay informed The Huaraz Telegraph that he had decided to denounce the new concessionaire for usurpation and damages. Saibene claimed that because the place is in dispute since last year and no legal solution has been found yet, the lodge still belongs to him. Saibene also provided us with a copy of the concession contract between him the community. After having analysed the contract, it appears to contain a loophole. At no point is it mentioned what would happen with the lodge after the concession is ended. Considering that Saibene is the one who built the place, understandably, he feels he is the rightful owner until this conflict has found a legal solution. Therefore, no one can use the lodge or the site in order to make money, so he claims. Saibene has claimed to our editor on two occasions that he has not been back to Hatun Machay since July 2016 and stressed that it was not him who set the lodge and chozas (huts) on fire. This claim may come as a surprise to many people, as a lot of people in Huaraz are accusing Saibene of having burned the place down. The publication of the criminal complaint filed by Saibene caused another reaction from Obregón who publicly accused our editor of being a coward and stated to take justice into her own hands. Tired of threats and false allegations our editor decided to write an open letter to Obregón. This open letter was published in Spanish on our website and was read and shared by many. In the letter, our editor forgave Obregón her threats but said it will not to stop publications on Hatun Machay. She was also offered, on two occasions, an interview in which she would have had
the opportunity to explain her point of view. Here a few quotes translated from Spanish into English from the open letter:
to read so many mistakes, especially for a professional person who claims to be the new Hatun Machay concessionaire.”
“Now, referring to the article that we published on Saturday the 3rd of this month, I want to ask you if we have been wrong somewhere, and if this is the case, if you could tell us where. The criminal complaint in question is a complaint dating back to May 30, 2017 and addressed to you. We are not inventing this as you suggested; but it may be that the prosecution of Recuay has not yet notified you. I’m sorry you had to read it through our media. According to the information and evidence we have been able to collect, we have come to the conclusion that Hatun Machay is not a safe place for tourists at the moment. If you, being the new concessionaire, can guarantee their safety, we will be happy to inform our readers and followers that the place is suitable for visits and sports activities.”
At the time of publishing this edition of The Huaraz Telegraph, we have not yet received a reply and our invitation for an interview honoured. Since we haven’t been to Hatun Machay recently, we cannot confirm whether the promised improvements by the new concessionaire have been implemented. The same is the case with some climbing routes that had been re-bolted by a group of students from the Casa de Guias in the ´Placa Verde´ sector, which unfortunately appear to have once again been unbolted. On Facebook, and according to climber Camila Chamizo from Argentina, this act was committed by a ´compatriot´ and an accomplice.
“Maybe you’re surprised what I’m about to say; but we have nothing against you, nor against the fact that you are the new concessionaire of Hatun Machay. We do not have any interests towards the site or the refuge. As a matter of fact, tourists don’t care if you are the administrator of Hatun Machay, or someone else. They want to enjoy their stay in safe circumstances, nothing else. Besides, Rosario, you should understand that your long-term online publications could have a negative effect on your career. You’re a psychologist, remember? Do not worry, the virtual threats directed to me, I can forgive you those, I think we all make mistakes and despite you being a psychologist, maybe you were tense and you could not control your emotions the moment you decided to write those lines.” “If you are unable to handle criticism or comments, I firstly suggest tolerance and, as a last resort, a job corresponding to your abilities and emotional limits. In addition, a small suggestion, before making an online publication that could be read by possibly thousands of people nowadays, review your grammar and spelling. It looks ugly
The latest development is that there is now an official S/15 soles fee per person to visit Hatun Machay for a day and a S/25 soles fee for staying overnight in one of the huts (the refuge is still burned and not useable). These fees are charged to local and foreign visitors alike, as well as to guides (certificated or not), cooks and even drivers! This comes as a big surprise and is very controversial as the Huascaran National Park and the Refugios Andinos have never charged guides, cooks or drivers for visiting. There also appears to be a S/5 soles fee for parking. It is not clearly understood what the money charged is for, apart from visiting, as facilities are still in a poor state (although some repairs seem to have been made to the huts that were burned down) and as the new management appears not to be planning on investing their own money to rebolt the routes that were unbolted previously or to bolt new climbing routes. As a matter of fact, the new concessionaire is openly asking for donations of bolts and asking help for bolting routes. Until some reliable evidence comes to light, we unfortunately cannot be sure of anything, and, as we communicated earlier to our readers and followers, unless the site is 100% safe for tourists, we cannot recommend people going to Hatun Machay, despite what others say.
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
Pumacayán: A short history of heritage Author: Julia Earle
Archaeologist with a Bachelors and Masters from the University of Toronto
Many tourists that visit Huaraz know little about the city’s history upon their arrival. In fact, even many of the residents are under the impression that their city’s history started in the colonial period upon the arrival of the Spanish. On the contrary, this area has been occupied for millennia, as evidenced by the site of Pumacayán. Only a few blocks away from the Plaza de Armas, Pumacayán is an archaeological monument with a deep significance to the region that persisted over the course of multiple cultural shifts. It would have been a powerful place where communities formed and celebrated shared identities, paid homage to their ancestors and the powerful beings embedded in their landscape, and made lasting memories and social connections between communities. Although little research has been conducted at the site, local archaeologist Lic. Jhon Cruz and I have conducted research
The Huaraz Telegraph View of Pumacayán seen from the Soledad area
on the site’s stratigraphy that was exposed during the construction of a road through the mound in 2003. Based on the evidence available, Pumacayán was first built as
a platform perhaps 3000 years ago around the same time as Chavín de Huantar. Subsequently, the Recuay people piled stones and earth on top of the platform,
expanding its width and height over the following centuries. The Inca were the last to add to the structure, adopting the place as a sacred space of their own in order to
Warrior Princess in the Callejón de Huaylas Author: Charlotte Mcconaghy Travel and climbing fanatic from the U.S.A.
My boyfriend, Josh, and I arrived in Ancash in January of this year to hang out until the dry season came and we could begin climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. We are both climbers and skiers from the U.S. I just graduated from university and Josh quit his corporate job so we could spend the next couple of years following the climbing seasons across South America. We had been on the hunt for an adventure vehicle since we began our South American travels in Ecuador in November. We believed that a car could help us attain the lifestyle we were seeking by helping us reach remote climbing locations. It would also give us the flexibility and independence to enjoy and make the most of each place without being reliant on coordinating expensive, private transportation. Considering that we are trying to avoid all major cities and tourist traps, our own vehicle just made perfect sense. We also made the argument that it would be cheaper in the long run considering the extremely slow pace at which we are planning on moving. Additionally, with all of the technical gear we literally carried across Ecuador, an adventure vehicle would be more practical too.
Luckily for us, our search came to a successful end when we laid our eyes on Xena, Warrior Princess. It was love at first sight but that does not mean that our relationship together has been an easy one.
Xena had a bit of a track record before she came into our lives. After leaving behind her career as a rental car in California, she was driven south through all of Central America and to Lima by an Israeli.
The next man in her life was a French windsurfer. They didn’t last too long together; only until Santiago, Chile. The couple we bought her from drove her down to Patagonia and eventually left her with us.
We first met Xena in mid-February while we were volunteering at the Llanganuco Mountain Lodge at the national park entrance to Lake 69 and the Llanganuco Lakes. A French couple was discovered by the lodge’s owner, Charlie, camping at nearby Lake Keushu out of a vehicle with US plates. He struck up a conversation with the pair and they drove Xena to the lodge to set up the blind date. Their trip was coming to an end and four days later, they were on a night bus to Lima and Xena, Warrior Princess was ours. She came pre-outfitted for living, with a bed, a cooler, a 20L water tank, cooking equipment, and other odds and ends. While living at the lodge, we built a custom shelving unit and put nice curtains encircling the rear. The general layout of Xena has the two front seats and the bed that dominates the entire rear of the vehicle with just enough room to have the cooler behind the driver´s seat followed by the water tank (both accessible from the rear door). The shelving unit takes up the remaining wedge of space between the foot of the bed and the side window. We store all of our climbing and camping gear under the bed. Needless to say, it is tight living quarters and had forced us to work on our flexibility.
The Huaraz Telegraph Happy life in the mountains with ´Xena´
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017 lay claim to the local region during their conquest. Pumacayán appears as a large hill today, covered in vegetation and trash deposited by modern visitors. Unfortunately, since the invasion of the Spanish, Pumacayán has been quarried for its finely cut stone to be used as building material, and over the centuries since, houses were built around and atop the mound. In the last few years, local efforts achieved the evacuation of residents atop the mound and removal of the houses there, although a small church still remains as evidence of attempted Christian conversion of the structure. Significant cleaning and conservation of the site remains to be done. The current state of Pumacayán is congruent with the bad track record Huaraz has with its archaeological heritage. The Parque de los Incas, constructed in the late 1990s, is one example. Contrary to its name that appears to pay homage to pre-Hispanic heritage, several pre-Inca tombs were demolished to make way for the park. Just one tomb still stands, albeit with the statues of the legendary first Incas, Manqu Qhapaq and Mama Uqllu, standing on top. The tomb now serves as a storage closet for cleaning equipment. Although you might not find much of this information in guidebooks or promotional pamphlets, Huaraz is a city rich in arWear and tear from her previous life became apparent pretty quickly on the few short trips we had together. Her horn would sometimes stick or start blaring unpredictably, like the time she was parked outside of some hot springs when we were inside bathing without her. That required some apologies to the neighbors. Soon after, her alternator gave out. It took eight instances of dying in inconvenient locations before we were able to address that issue. Through all of this, we could still see the beauty and strength she possessed. When we decided to leave the Llanganuco Mountain Lodge, we moved into her full time. Our first stop was a soak and some climbing at Chancos. They next day we were on the road moving to Huaraz. A couple of kilometres before town, more trouble! The traction control spontaneously turns on which sporadically would brake the wheels while driving. We also lost power to the engine; I put the pedal to the metal and we were able to maintain about 10 to 15 km per hour. Josh and I responded with encouragement by cheering on Xena. We sang to her and rubbed her dashboard all the way to the mechanics were she spent the next week getting pampered. After a couple months together, I believe the honeymoon period has worn off. Huaraz is not the easiest place to live out of a car. We wake up regularly to the constant melody of taxis honking their horns, drunk people wandering the streets on the weekend, territorial dogs, the random rooster or pig, and processions during Semana Santa at 2 a.m. Public bathrooms are few and far between
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chaeological heritage. However, because these histories are not well advertised and the site of Pumacayán does not appear as grand as it once was, the pre-Hispanic history of the place now called Huaraz is still very much alive. Pumacayán still watches diligently over its domain, witness to all of the changes that have taken place there over the course of its lifetime. Since most of Huaraz’ historic architecture was destroyed in the 1970 earthquake, Pumacayán is truly one of the last pieces of history left standing in the city. If you are interested to know more about Huaraz’ history, I hope that you will take the time to visit Pumacayán during your stay and hear some of the stories that it has to tell.
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About the author: Julia Earle is an archaeologist with a bachelors and masters from the University of Toronto. She is interested in researching the labour and technologies involved in the construction of pre-Hispanic monuments. Julia is currently involved in two projects, one in Huaraz with the objective to promote awareness of Pumacayán, and an expedition funded by the National Geographic Society in Pampacolca, Peru. She lives in Austin, Texas, where she will begin her Doctoral studies in August 2017. making early morning tinkles challenging, especially as a female. (I try sometime to squat between the front and rear opened doors but splash-back is an unfortunate reality.) And when we have a bout of food sickness, we need to get creative. While every family is a little dysfunctional, deep down, it is based on love. We have begun to adjust to the Huaraz-based car life. We now know the hostels that will let us in to shower. We also have found our spots where we are comfortable opening up Xena and setting up our kitchen on the sidewalk; the local kids all know us at this point. There are some secret spots to park late at night where we can pick up Wi-Fi (don’t worry, we make sure to give them business during the day). The police have been wonderful; I think they are used to foreigners sleeping in the vehicles. They have never come knocking on the car and they have been extremely helpful when Xena has died or when we needed some specific documents from them.
Casa de Guías offers: Guide services - Spanish classes - weather updates - tourist information and detailed maps of all the mountains around Huaraz Find us in Parque Ginebra Huaraz
Overall, we are still extremely happy living in Xena. She takes us on the coolest multi day trips parked out at climbing crags and great hiking spots. The opportunities and experiences she provides us are unparalleled. Check out any Instagram account about ‘vanlyfe’ and you can get the idea. But those images do not reflect the true reality of living out of a vehicle. It’s a beautiful, ever-changing mix of highs and lows that has taught Josh and me about ourselves and our relationship. I love Xena, Warrior Princess for all the unforgettable moments she has provided us. We may not be a trio for the rest of our lives, but we are all in this together. We are family.
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
Crystal under a southern sky, Alpamayo is the most beautiful one A photo of a Peruvian mountain that was first published in Germany, gave Alpamayo the illustrious fame of becoming the world’s most beautiful mountain. In July 1966 the German mountaineer’s magazine Alpinismus published an article called Kristall unter südlichem Himmel, (translated: Crystal under a southern sky) based on a survey among experts in mountaineering, who had earlier elected the Alpamayo as the most beautiful mountain in the world, which was the name given to it by Claude Kogan (1919–1959), the French mountaineer who was the first female conqueror of Alpamayo. Alpamayo Mountain beat Mount Godwin-Austen or Chhogori (K2) in the photo contest, although both pictures obtained four stars in the article. Huaraz-born former journalist and mountaineer César Morales Arnao was quoted in the article saying, “A perfect, thousand-meter-high pyramid of fir and ice sticks like a crystal into the deep blue sky of the south.” In fact, it was Mr. Morales who had sent the first picture of Mount Alpamayo to the German magazine, and encouraged friends to do the same. Various Internet sources claim that the eventual winning picture was taken by American photographer Leigh Ortenburger. Other people quoted in the article in Alpinismus are Hubert Adams ´Ad´ Carter, who stated that the Alpamayo Mountain is “so pure white and wonderfully symmetrical that its elegant form inspires everyone”. The Huaraz Telegraph interviewed 93-year-old Mr. Morales, the first Peruvian to conquer Mont Blanc, who crossed the Atlantic via the Panama Canal guarding carefully the bodies of two German mountaineers who suffered a
The Huaraz Telegraph Front page (left) of the 1966 July edition of Alpinismus magazine taken by Julian Ángeles Ríos, special thanks to Mr. César Morales Arnao
deadly climbing accident in the Cordillera Huayhuash. When he arrived in Hamburg, Germany, he personally delivered the remains of the deceased climbers to their families. We met Mr. Morales in Lima and found out about his life, mountain adventures and future goals. Mr. Morales thanks for having us today. Please tell us how your interest in mountaineering started? Well, in 1955 or 1956 I was working in the Cordillera Blanca for an organisation that monitored dangerous lakes. Being in the mountains so much, I had the opportunity of meeting of one of the first summiteers of Mount Alpamayo. One of them was Claude Kogan from France, who sadly got killed in 1959 in the Himalayas. It was her who gave away a sleeping back and a pair of mountaineering boots. This is
The Huaraz Telegraph Despite being 93, Mr. Morales can still easily recall dates and memories
how I started to get involved more and more in mountaineering. But this is not all; I had taken the first ever photograph of Alpamayo back in 1949. This happened around the time that ice avalanches fell into Laguna Jancarurish. The resulting aluvión caused up to 500 deaths along the Quebrada Los Cedros (Geohazards: Natural and man-made - G. J. McCall – P. 153). I believe that I took the picture in 1950 but am not sure, I do remember that I didn’t use the picture at the time and archived it. I also met the Austrian geographer and mountain researcher Hans Kinzl (1899– 1979). He had come for the third time to Peru to do mountaineering and research, on which he made a couple of very interesting publications (1933: Cordillera Blanca und mittleres Santa-Tal (Peru), 1940: Los glaciares de la Cordillera Blanca, 1944: Die anthropogeographische Bedeutung der Gletscher und die künstliche Flurbewässerung in den peruanischen Anden and 1949: Die Vergletscherung in der Südhälfte der Cordillera Blanca (Peru). Kinzl showed me his publications and because I was an expert in andinismo at the time, having founded the Grupo Andinista Cordillera Blanca our paths crossed. In 1950 I was a member of the first Peruvian expedition to the Vallunaraju. There were only people from Huaraz on the team, including my sister Elena. Mount Vallunaraju was a spectacular mountain at the time, and many years after our summit, the Huaraz Municipality decided to baptise it as Representative Mountain of the Municipality of Huaraz. In 1953 I went on an expedition to conquer the Huascarán, a mission that was sponsored by nationwide newspaper El Comercio. On the team that I guided were Fortunato Mautino, Felipe Mautino and Macario Ángeles from Huaraz, Apolonia Yanac, Guido Yanac and Pedro Yanac who were from Cajatambo in Lima. Although I didn’t make it to the top, the other expedition members were able to put the Peruvian flag on the south peak of the Huascaran. This expedition was the first ever Peruvian mountaineering
expedition to the Huascaran. During the same period, this is also when, together with Alejandro Miró Quesada Garland who worked as a journalist for El Comercio, we organised the first ski expedition. Alejandro and a couple of invitees from Lima came back to Huaraz and we went together with Elias Torres to Mount Paccharaju. Alejandro Miró Quesada put on his skis and started to descent the Paccharaju Glacier. This was a beautiful glacier at the time that could be seen from Chancos and Marcará. Unfortunately, Alejandro fell in a small crack during the first descent. Together with one of the Yanac brothers we were able to get him out and also found his ski he had lost on the way. We went up the glacier again to give it a second try. The second try was very successful and Alejandro became the first Peruvian to practice skiing in the Cordillera Blanca back in 1953. This was big news back then and all nationwide newspapers spoke of a journalistic prodigy at the time. Being a member of the Grupo Andinista and leader of the first Peruvian expedition to the Huascarán, a short while later we were invited by El Comercio for a week in Lima to promulgate our activities on mountaineering in Peru. We were invited to the Peruvian Congress and visited the Peruvian national football stadium too. Here all summiteers were presented to the crowd and we were allowed to walk one round in front of all stands and received applauses from the attendees. The entire team was also offered a free flight over Lima by Pan American-Grace Airways, better known as Panagra. We understand that you were the first Peruvian to have conquered the Mount Blanc in France, how did this happen? Because of our successful expedition on Huascaran, the team was invited by the French embassy and I was offered a scholarship in the Chamonix National Ski School to fine-tune techniques and gain more experience. I accepted the invitation
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017 and went to Chamonix, but by boat. In 1961, an accident happened on Siula Grande is in the Cordillera Huayhuash. A group of German mountaineers from Munich fell and died. Their bodies were embalmed and I was asked by the German embassy to accompany them on their last trip back to Germany. We crossed the Panama Canal and the Atlantic to finally arrive in the harbour of Hamburg. Their family members were waiting when I arrived. German mountaineer and first successful summiteer of Mount Alpamayo in 1957 Günther Hauser was also present when I arrived. Hauser helped me to get to France where a family member would receive me. After finishing my training courses in Chamonix, I decide to organise an expedition in honour of a great Peruvian pilot called Jorge Antonio Chávez Dartnell. Together with a Mexican mountaineer we managed to get to the top and I dedicated a couple of words in honour of Jorge Chávez. After our summit, a couple of French newspapers picked up the story and French daily morning newspaper Le Figaro ran the story on their front page. Not much later the Peruvian newspapers would also hear about it and praised “the first Peruvian to conquer the Mont Blanc”. After my summit on Mont Blanc I went to Italy and England to do some more climbing, before finally heading back to Peru, where I started to give many speeches on mountaineering and tried to promote the Huaraz area in Peru. What was your role in Alpamayo being elected the most beautiful mountain in the world? You could call Alpamayo my favourite mountain. In 1949 I took a couple of pictures with a tiny Kodak box camera. I took these from the Laguna Jancarurish and I believe I took three that I archived at the time. I received a letter from a German friend called Tony asking me to participate in a worldwide photo contest. I sent those three pictures, which weren’t very good by the way, and I also sent a couple of pictures of Mount Yerupajá located in the Cordillera Huayhuash. To support the Peruvian submission and make sure that Alpamayo would have a bigger chance of winning, I contacted a couple of friends around the world such as Leigh Ortenburger, Adams Carter, Günther Hauser and Piero Nava from Italy. I wrote them that they should also send their pictures to German mountaineer’s magazine Alpinismus, who were the organizers of the contest. I believe that they received around 75 pictures of different mountains around the world, and after counting the votes, Alpamayo came out on top According to the survey The Matterhorn came third, Fitz Roy in Patagonia fourth, Mont Blanc fifth, Grandes Jorasses sixth, Siniolchu in India seventh, before Macha Puchare, Ama Dablam and the Weisshorn came tenth. I believe that the best picture of Alpamayo that was published was taken by Leigh Ortenburger. You can understand that I felt very proud that a Peruvian mountain was chosen as most beautiful in the world. As a result, many Peruvian newspapers also picked up the news and published about it. Today, Alpamayo is
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considered the most beautiful one. Mr. Morales, what are the differences between mountaineering back when you first started to mountaineering today? Well, back then there were no guides. Mountaineering was practiced by a person who liked to climb and the guides back then in fact were the muleteers or porters. People ascended mountains because they liked climbing or were curious about the view. Nowadays, alpinismo has been converted into a profession. Most guides that ascend mountains are very well paid by their customers. In my days, you didn’t receive anything and had to fund your own climbs. Another difference is the equipment. Back in the day there was hardly any specialised equipment, nowadays people carry up entire hardware stores. Another difference could be the change of aptitude of youngsters. They take too many risks in this day and age; this explains possibly the number of increased accidents and fatalities in the mountains. In the 60s a mountaineer would climb a mountain choosing the easiest route to get to the summit. Nowadays, youngsters choose the most difficult one and preferably one that hasn’t been climbed before, just to set the record or because of the publicity they might obtain. There are more magazines related to mountaineering so maybe they like the public attention.
WWW.CHURUP.COM / INFO@CHURUP.COM TEL: 043-424200 JIRON AMADEO FIGUEROA 1257 LA SOLEDAD - HUARAZ
Finally, being a former journalist for El Comercio, I understand you have also published a couple of books on mountaineering I published a couple of small books with the help of some friends who provided me with pictures. One of them is called Andinismo en la Cordillera Blanca. This book included a summary of the mountaineers that managed to summit the highest tropical cordillera in the world and the history of the Huascaran. It also included a story of the tragic landslide of Ranrahirca and a description of the Huascaran National Park. It had some explanations on the Quechua language and a couple of maps. Another book I published is Huascarán Climbing Guide with all the possible information on Huascaran; how to get there, what routes to take and what to be careful of. But I also wrote many articles on mountaineering for magazines and newspapers, and I still hope to do a new book on the Alpamayo one day, but I am 93 now as you know. At the age of 91 César Morales was honoured by the Peruvian Congress for his dedication to mountaineering in general and the promotion of Peru abroad. Mr. Morales graduated from the Catholic University studying engineering, studied philosophy at the Seminary of Santo Toribio de Mogrovejo and obtained the degree of Doctor in journalism at the University San Martin de Porres. Additionally, Mr. Morales exercised the presidency of the Peruvian federation of Andinismo and Winter Sports of the Peruvian Institute of Sport (IPD) and was cofounder of the National Park Huascarán. We would like to thank Julián Ángeles Ríos for setting up the interview with Mr. Morales in Lima.
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The Huaraz Telegraph has also been informed about various cases of sexual harassment on lone female travelers at different local hostels and during organised treks and expeditions in the Cordillera Blanca. Details about some of these cases published by the victims can be found on sites such as TripAdvisor and Booking.com. In the meantime, remember to always buy treks and tours from reputable agencies (ask for a detailed receipt) and double check their reputation on forums on the Internet. Never ever buy tours at hostels (unless they have their own travel agency onsite), cafés, bus stations or on the streets in Huaraz, in order to avoid problems. And, if you are a lone female traveler do not go out in town or in the mountains with strangers, even if they show you recommendations from other travelers trying to gain your trust. Make sure to stay at reputable hostels, never trust people lurking at the bus stations offering you accommodation or tours. At the time of publishing, we have learned that the suspect is still working at the hostel. Because of this case, The Huaraz Telegraph felt forced to eliminate this hostel from our list on page two of this newspaper, and our paper will no longer be available at this hostel as the administrators refused to sack the suspect. The people who run the place have been informed. Tourist Police Huaraz returns stolen suitcase of Brazilian tourist On March the 6th, Brazilian Felipe da Silva checked in at a local tourist hostel located on Jr. Ladislao Meza in Huaraz, leaving one suitcase on the street for only a couple of seconds. However, when he returned his suitcase was gone. The Brazilian, living in Flonapolis, immediately went to the Tourist Police to report the missing suitcase. The Tourist Police started an investigation and paid a visit to the video surveillance centre located on the Plaza de Armas. Luckily, the suitcase was found that same night by the Tourist Police only a couple of blocks from where it had been taken. The suitcase that contained his belongings such as a camera, clothes, shoes, underwear, and other electronic devices, was found back on Jirón Enrique Palacios. After returning to the office of the Tourist Police in Huaraz, the Brazilian confirmed that no items were missing from his suitcase and he thanked the officers for their quick and effective search. German (59) dies on Nevado Mateo near Huaraz On the 29th of November last year, local tourist guide Fredy Gonzales Valverde descended Mount Mateo and found a body. The guide immediately called to the police in Shilla, who informed the Department of High Mountain Rescue (DEPSAM) in Yungay. Nine policemen headed to Mount Mateo and together with a representative of the public ministry, and the death of the German tourist was confirmed. According to the police, the German citizen had left his car near to the Punta
The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
Olimpica tunnel. Mount Mateo at 5,150 metres above sea level is probably one of the easier mountains located in the Cordillera Blanca; however, it appears to be a tricky mountain. In 2016, Spaniard Alberto Cuadros and Dutch national Hendrick (Erik) Elsinga suffered similar incidents but luckily both survived. Forty-five percent fatalities in 2016
fewer
mountain
Sources at the Casa de Guías informed The Huaraz Telegraph that although there have been fewer climbers in general; the reason for the drop on the number of accidents is unclear. Often, small incidents go unreported. The Huaraz Telegraph calculated that fatal mountain accidents have dropped significantly with almost 45% compared to last year.
The Huaraz Telegraph Former Huaraz-prisoner Lewis Cornelius from South Africa with his ´lucky ornaments´
In 2015, eleven foreigners lost their lives in the mountains around Huaraz including Russian champions Alexander Ruchkin and Vjacheslav Ivanov, Marie Gratigny (74) from France, Jorge David Riera Gomez (31), Braulio Rodolfo Rios Gordon (31) and Carlos Esteban Verástegui Romero (26) from Ecuador, Thierry Daniel Badan (46) from France, Estonians Tarmo Riga (43), Jane Riga (42) and Allan Valge (36) and Aviv Yehezkel Bromberg (24) from Israel. On May 12th 2016, professional mountain guide Victorino Bacilio Huaranga suffered a fatal fall while trying to summit the Rasaq Mountain in the Cordillera Huayhuash. According to official information, Huaranga was at 5,800 meters above sea level and one hour to reach the top of the Rasaq – Yerupajá when he fell and was knocked unconscious. Victorino Bacilio still holds the record of the most ascends in the Cordillera Blanca, with an incredible 50 ascends on Huascaran and eight ascends on Alpamayo.
are from Chile. Twenty-one percent is from Argentina, followed by Brazil (15.2%) and Costa Rica (8.7%). Colombia delivers 7.4% of the Latin Americans and other nations have smaller percentages.
In July of last year, renowned Mexican mountaineers Carlos Belkotosky and José Miguel Mendoza lost their lives along with their Peruvian guide Julio Constantino Suarez Rey and guide Gilberto Silverio Loli Sánchez at a place known as La Canaleta (5,800m). This is the most dangerous part of the climb and it´s located just before camp two. Nine people were involved in the accident, three Mexicans, two Spaniards and four Peruvians, including guides and porters. In 2017, at the time of closing this edition, no fatal accidents had been reported.
The Glaciology and Water Resources Unit of the National Water Authority (ANA) has shared their latest information on the inventory of glaciers and lagoons in the Cordillera Blanca. In 2003, 830 lakes were enumerated by the organisation but a recent count registered 30 lakes more. The purpose of the Glaciology and Water Resources Unit of the National Water Authority is to create awareness of the situation of glaciers and lagoons in a context of climate change. Three of the lakes in the Cordillera Blanca are to be found in the region of La Libertad and the other ones are spread over 15 provinces in the Ancash region. The provinces with the highest number of glacial lakes are Pallasca (162), Huaylas (106), Huari (104), Huaraz (76) and Recuay (73).
South American tourists not interested in Trujillo, Huaraz and Iquitos According to Diego Castro, country manager of the booking website Despegar.com, Peru received most South American tourists from neighbouring country Chile. The website has created a top eight most visited cities in Peru by South American Tourists and Nazca, Trujillo, Huaraz and Iquitos are not on it. Lima, also known as The City of the Kings, Peru´s capital and largest city is the most visited by the South Americans followed by Cusco. Tacna in the south of Peru is the surprising number three on the list and this is probably because of its close location to Chile. Almost a quarter (24.4%) of South American tourists visiting Peru
Furthermore, Arequipa is listed number four on the list, followed by Piura. The region of Piura is known for its tropical beaches and is located in the north of Peru. Another surprise on the list is Ica. The city of Ica is about 300 km south of Lima, and is located along the desert coast of southern Peru along the PanAmerican Highway. Ica and its surrounding areas are the traditional source of Pisco brandy. Most tourists visiting Ica will also pay a visit to Huacachina, a small oasis surrounded by sand dunes. Finally, Puno near the Lake Titicaca and Tumbes in the north complete the list. Recent inventory shows 30 more lakes have suffered glacial retreat
The inventory indicates that there are 122 lakes in the Cordillera Blanca that count with bathymetry studies. Bathymetry is a specialised study carried out by the Glaciology Unit to get to know the physical characteristics of the lakes, such as its volume, depth, length, width etc. It also allows monitoring the evolution of the lakes with glacial contact. Palcacocha, Tullparaju, Cuchillacocha, Chinancocha, Purhuay and Parón are some of these lakes that appear in these studies. The inventory also showed evidence of
the reduction of the water reserve of the White Mountain Range. Since registering the information by the Glaciology Unit, in 1970 it calculated 723 km2 of glacier surface; in 2012 it had dropped to 474 km2, a shocking 35%. In quantity, 722 glaciers were recorded in 1970 and only 586 in 2012. The diminution of the glacier surface in the mountain range is notorious, many glaciers are less than 5 km2 and their loss is continuous; however, it is an opportunity to properly manage the water resources that flow through into rivers. Last year, American paleoclimatologist and distinguished university professor at the School of Earth Sciences, Ohio State University, Lonnie G. Thompson informed our newspaper that he thought that it´s likely that the Pastoruri Glacier will disappear within 10 years. Englishman Jonathan (Jo) Parsons of popular hostel Jo´s Place passes away We are sad to inform our readers and tourists that Jonathan Parsons of Jo´s Place passed away last month. Jo was a real character in town because of his excellent (sarcastic) sense of English humor and, according to neighbours, a very helpful person too. Additionally, he always shared joyful jokes when we dropped off the latest edition of The Huaraz Telegraph and shared many stories of his adventures in the nearby mountains. In the early 80s, Jo became one of the first foreigners living in Huaraz and with his wife Vicky he started Jo´s Place in 2000. The hostel is known for its spacious camping space and traditional English style bacon and egg breakfasts. Jo (62) died of a heart attack in Lima and is survived by his wife and two daughters. Archaeological site of Piquijirca being invaded and destroyed According to information obtained by The Huaraz Telegraph, the archaeological site of Piquijirca is being invaded by local people for political reasons. Although not very well known, the site of Piquijirca is located to the west of the town of Yungar. Its access road goes towards the towns of Trigopampa and Santa Rosa, which cuts through the archaeological zone. It´s believed that the encroachment of the site took place in April 2016.
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017 The Huaraz Telegraph also received videos and pictures of the site on which we could clearly see the destruction of Piquijirca and the settling of villagers with improvised houses made of cardboard and other materials. The Decentralised Direction of Culture of Ancash (DDC) has been informed about these happenings but nothing has been done yet, so we learned. On November the 17th of last year, the archaeologist Eduardo Sante verified the area and after an inspection he assured he was sending a detailed report to Lima asking for support, as they did not have the resources to take immediate action. Regrettably, according to the Ministry of Culture in Lima, no report has been sent to Lima. Archaeologist Juan Paredes initiated excavations in Piquijirca in 1998, and the area has potential; however, if local authorities are not capable or willing to take action, not much of the site with Wari tombs will remain. South African finally a free man after completing 12-year-long prison sentence in Huaraz prison While others might have celebrated Valentine´s Day, the 14th of February was celebrated by Charles Lewis Cornelius from South Africa for other reasons. The 56-year-old completed his last days of his prison sentence he was handed for trying to smuggle 17 kilos and 211 grams of cocaine hydrochloride from Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima. After being released from prison, The Huaraz Telegraph met with Charles Lewis Cornelius and he said he felt strong and ready to face new challenges. Lewis has to pay fines, which amount to in excess of US$ 8,500 before he can leave the country. Once that the fines are paid and a one way ticket out of the country is bought, he will be officially expelled and cannot return to Peru for a period of 10 years. Since 2012, the editor of The Huaraz Telegraph has visited the Víctor Perez Liendo prison on numerous occasions and has helped Lewis with goods, books, clothes and some pocket money. During those five years, Lewis always appreciated our visits and never caused any trouble. At The Huaraz Telegraph we would like to thank those readers (tourists) who have visited Lewis during his imprisonment after reading his story. During his incarceration his partner died and Mr. Cornelius is now selling ´lucky ornaments´ made of bull horns on the main street in Huaraz. The 56-year-old former prison inmate asked our editor to publish his phone number (+51 927-068-173) and said that readers of our newspaper and tourists could contact him for a little chat or some great prison stories. Lewis is to be found around the Plaza de Armas in Huaraz and is also working on his memoirs, which he hopes to publish one day. Incredible but true: Fountain at Parque del Periodista is in its 10th year without water The Huaraz Telegraph was informed by the Patriotic Society Faustino Sanchez Carrión-Luzuriaga Mejía that almost all the fountains in our city are without
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water. This was hard to believe at first being so close to the mountains and our city´s focus on tourism. However, a small investigation and visit to some of the main fountains in our city in October last year, proved that it´s sadly true. Which makes one wonder why were they built in the first place? Maybe to use more concrete so the construction bill can be inflated? Is it the Provincial Municipality that has to pay the electricity bill to make the fountains work or should the nearby residents take care of this? Sadly, in Huaraz the word parque stands for concrete and cement as flowers and plants are hardly found. Famous Peruvian mountaineer Richard Hidalgo, during an exclusive interview back in 2016, called the Parque del Periodista pathetic and he has a point. Where all people living around all the other parks with fountains in our city can still claim that it´s the Municipality´s responsibility to make the fountain work, businesses around the Parque del Periodista cannot. They should actually be ashamed; taking in account the high number of tourists that walk past this fountain to spend money in their establishments. Seemingly, the fountain at Parque del Periodista has been without water for more than a decade and inner struggles between the businesses located at this square might explain why they have never come to an agreement to make it work. At the time of publishing, the fountain is still without water. Huaraz climbing community mourned Ueli Steck´s death. “A legend has gone” The death of renowned climber Ueli Steck shocked the world and climbing community. The man nicknamed as the ‘Swiss Machine’ had been planning to ascend Everest and neighbouring Mount Lhotse afterwards but was killed after falling to the foot of Mount Nuptse. According to Mingma Sherpa of the Seven Summit Treks Company that had organised the expedition, the 40-year-old was one of the most celebrated climbers of his generation. The twice Piolet d’Or winner had visited Huaraz in the past and climbed some of the surrounding mountains. Ueli Steck will be remembered as a true legend by those who knew him. Many people related to mountaineering and those working the tourism industry in Huaraz expressed their feelings and condolences on social networks. Mountaineer and professional guide Beto Pinto Toledo told our newspaper that he felt sad hearing about the accident and that he met Ueli while climbing the Alpamayo a couple of years back. “I remember that he summited Alpamayo in two hours and 40 minutes, but he was so good that his partner couldn’t even follow him.” Eric Raul Albino Lliuya, professional mountain guide and sales manager of Peru Expeditions Tours in Huaraz met Ueli three years ago, also on Alpamayo, said, “A legend has gone, one of world´s best in mountaineering. What can you say? It´s really sad.” Víctor Rimac Trejo (see page 4 of this edition) was one of the first mountaineers to have found the lifeless body of Ueli Steck.
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Tourist Information
The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017
All you should know about day trips, trekking, mountaineering and rock climbing The Cordillera Blanca offers countless opportunities for trekkers and climbers, as well as for people not so keen on physical activities. The wonderful lakes and glaciers of the White Range are easily accessible from the town of Huaraz. Here is a quick guide to the best activities around Huaraz. DAY TRIPS Daily sightseeing tours These tours are great for those of you who are not so active, or who need to acclimatise before heading out into the mountains. LLANGANUCO – This tour visits the villages in the Huaylas Valley (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz), and the beautiful Chinancocha Lake. Be aware that you will only spend from 40 minutes to one hour at the lake and spend much time at places of little interest. Departs every day. Alternatively you can visit the lakes independently, taking a taxi from Yungay, that way you can take full advantage of the lakes. CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – This tour takes you to Chavin, a village situated on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca in the Conchucos Valley. Here you can visit the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring some of the oldest and most significant pre-Inca ruins in Peru, as well as the Chavin National Museum, which has recently been completely refurbished and is very much worth a visit. You also make a stop at the lovely Lake Querococha along the way. Departs every day except Mondays. PASTORURI – This tour visits the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, with the amazing Pastoruri glacier, which is still well worth a visit despite having lost over 40% of its ice in recent years. You can’t help but be impressed by the huge ice cliffs and the Puya Raimondii – a rare 12m high bromeliad plant which you visit on the way to the glacier. Make sure you become acclimatised before going on this tour as the glacier is at 5000m. Departs every day. Day hikes These hikes are perfect for those needing to acclimatise before a trek, or for those with limited time. LAKE WILCACOCHA, 3750m – This is the best hike to start your activities with if coming from sea level, as it is not above 4000m. It can be done in half a day and for those with some hiking experience it can easily be done independently using public transport. The trailhead is a mere 15-minute drive away at Chiwipampa, the hike up to the lake, located in the Cordillera Negra, takes approximately two hours. From the lake, you are rewarded with amazing panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca. LAKE CHURUP, 4485m – This is one of the closest and most easily accessible hike from Huaraz, leading to a very beautiful turquoise/emerald green coloured glacial lake. It can be quite challenging as there are some steep sections and there is a rock wall before the lake, which you need
to scramble up to, there are wires to help you up. It can be tricky in the rainy season when the rock is wet and incredibly slippery, so be careful. It is recommended not to hike alone, but for experienced hikers a guide is not necessary as the path is easy to find. For those of you with limited hiking experience, it is advisable to go with a guide, as he will help you go up and down the rock wall safely. The trailhead at Llupa or Pitec can be easily reached by public transport. LAKE 69, 4600m – This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the northern section of the national park, from Huaraz it’s roughly a 3 -hour drive to the trailhead (Cebollapampa), but the journey is incredibly scenic with great views of Mount Huascaran and the Llanganuco Lakes. The hike is of moderate difficulty, but can be challenging for those with limited acclimatisation. You can reach the trailhead by public transport easily, but finding transport to get back can prove very difficult, so it is recommended to hire private transport from Huaraz. For those with hiking experience, a guide is not necessary as the path is clear, but make sure you are already a little acclimatised to the high altitude before setting off (if coming from sea level this is not recommended for a first hike), otherwise you may have some serious problems with altitude sickness, which is why some agencies prefer to send a guide with their groups so that they can keep an eye on any potential problems. The lake is totally stunning, not only its pristine blue colour, but also its fantastic location at the foot of the mighty Mount Chacraraju. You are rewarded with awesome views of the Cordillera Blanca’s highest summits during the hike. LAKE PARON, 4140m – This lake is located in the northern section of the national park. You need to first go to the town of Caraz before ascending towards the Cordillera Blanca, a long but scenic journey going through the Paron Valley, where huge granite cliffs tower high on all sides. You can go all the way to the lake by private transport, then those who wish can follow the path that skirts the northern shores of the lake and that leads to the Artesonraju Base Camp, or/and can hike up to the viewpoint. This is the largest and one of the most beautiful lakes in the range, as it is surrounded by many impressive snow-capped peaks. Group departures to this lake are not daily, but more or less once or twice a week when there is enough demand. LAKE AGUAC, 4580m – This is another lake located close to Huaraz. The trail starts at the ruins of Wilcahuain and is fairly easy to find. It is quite a long hike (approx. four hours to reach the lake, less to come back down) and the altitude can make it challenging. The lake doesn’t have a special colour, but there are some great mountain views around. TREKKING Easy to moderate treks SANTA CRUZ TREK (four days) – Undoubtedly the Cordillera Blanca’s most famous and popular trek. It is suitable for novice hikers, but good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. This trek
The Huaraz Telegraph Keep your stuff inside tents as cows and other wild animals might surprise tourists when staying overnight in the National Park Huascaran
deserves its fame; offering varied scenery and endless views of majestic snowcapped peaks, jewelled glacial lakes and gorgeous Andean valleys. For those with ample experience of trekking at high altitude, this trek is doable without a guide, but be sure to follow the national park rules especially to carry all your rubbish out of the park. Ask in town for directions before heading out, as although easy to follow, the path is not signposted. Departures for this trek in an all-inclusive organised group run daily in high season, but standards vary from one company to the next. The trek can be completed in three or four days, but if you do it in three days you will miss the side trip to the Alpamayo base camp and Lake Arhuaycocha, which is undoubtedly one of the trek’s highlights. OLLEROS – CHAVIN TREK also known as LLAMA TREK (three days) – A less popular trek, it mainly crosses vast expanses of puna, following ancient preInca and Inca paths that lead to the village of Chavin. There are no glacial lakes and few snow-capped mountain views during this trek, but you will come across some isolated communities. Moderate to challenging treks AKILPO – ISHINCA TREK (three days) – This trek is similar in difficulty to the Quilcayhuanca trek, although donkeys can be used (they do not go over the pass but go back and around). The pass is very high at 5050m and the path leading up to it is steep and not well marked, the descent from the pass is very difficult and potentially dangerous if you go the wrong way. The trek starts at the pre-Inca ruins of Honcopampa, and then goes up the Akilpo Valley through beautiful forests of local quenual trees, before reaching the superb Lake Akilpo just before the pass. Then you go down to the Ishinca Valley. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers looking for an alternative to the Santa Cruz trek. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. QUILCAYHUANCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – A stunning trek which goes through some less-visited, but none the less stunning valleys of the Cordillera Blanca. It is a much tougher trek than the Santa Cruz for two reasons. First there are no donkeys to carry all the equipment, so you will have to carry a backpack weighing around 15kg (the weight depends on the
number of porters accompanying the group). Second, because the pass is much higher. At 5050m the path leading up to it is very steep, rocky and generally not well trodden. The way down from the pass is even steeper and more challenging. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers who wish to experience peace and tranquillity. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. Note that some agencies haven taken the habit of doing the trek in reverse, starting in Cojup, in order to avoid the national park control point in Pitec and send uncertified guides. Doing the trek this way is not recommendable as the ascent to the pass from the Cojup side is too challenging for most people. Challenging treks HUAYHUASH TREK (eight to twelve days) – The Huayhuash full circuit trek is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful. It is a trek that requires good physical condition and acclimatisation, because it crosses many high passes (eight passes minimum ranging from 4650m to 5050m) and the campsites are all above 4100m. Trekkers are rewarded with endless breath-taking views of stunning glacial lakes, pristine valleys and icy peaks, which can be extremely close. There are many alternatives possible for the itinerary, but the most common group departures are for the eight day and ten day treks. Those with more time and wishing to explore less visited valleys of the range can do the trek in as many as 15 days, and take the more challenging high trail. Those with limited time can do the four day Mini Huayhuash trek, which visits one of the range’s most beautiful locations: the Lake Jahuacocha area. CEDROS – ALPAMAYO TREK (seven to ten days) – This trek is less popular than the Huayhuash trek, and also very different, although not less beautiful. It is probably a bit more challenging too, even though the passes are not as high (eight passes on the full circuit ranging from 4400m to 4850m), but the trails leading up to the passes are much steeper. You are unlikely to meet many trekkers and will come across several isolated Quechua communities who still follow a traditional lifestyle. The highlight of this trek is undoubtedly the view from Jancarurish of Mount
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The Huaraz Telegraph July 2017 Alpamayo, known as the World’s most Beautiful Mountain thanks to its near perfect pyramid of ice. You will not see as many glacial lakes and close-up views of glaciers on this trek as on the Huayhuash trek, but the landscape is much more varied and the isolation a real bonus. The trek can be done in seven days starting in Hualcayan or Huancarhuas and finishing in Pomabamba, allowing one worthwhile rest day in Jancarurish, but take into account that you need a full day to travel back to Huaraz from Pomabamba (night buses are not recommended due to frequent robberies on this route). For those with more time, you can add extra days by joining on to the Santa Cruz trek at the end, making it a ten or 11 day itinerary if finishing in Cashapampa, or a nine day itinerary if finishing in Vaqueria. The trek can be done in reverse, but it is tougher. MOUNTAINEERING Keep in mind that glacier conditions change from year to year, so what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses the following year. So make sure to check the latest conditions in town before setting out on any of these expeditions. Non-technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with no previous mountaineering experience; however, even though they are often referred to as trekking peaks these expeditions, although not technical, are harder than a trek, due to the fact that you wake up at midnight, walk in the dark and use heavy equipment such as mountain boots and crampons. If you are fit and have experience of trekking at high altitude and want to experience being on a glacier, then one of these peaks is for you. MOUNT PISCO, 5752m (three days) – This expedition offers some of the best summit views of any peak of the Cordillera Blanca, and for that reason is very popular. Crossing the moraine takes two to three hours and is considered the most challenging part of the expedition. It is possible to include a hike to Lake 69 on the last day. MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, 5686m (two days) – This expedition can be quite challenging, because no donkeys can be used, you have to carry roughly a 15kg backpack up a steep path to moraine camp on day 1. It is very popular due to its proximity to Huaraz making it a short expedition. At the moment the main summit is not being climbed because it is completely full of crevasses, which make the ascent much longer than before and also much more intimidating, therefore not suitable for beginners. For that reason most expeditions now climb the South summit, which at 5675m is only 11 metres lower than the North summit. MOUNT ISHINCA, 5530m (three days) – This peak is mostly used as an acclimatisation peak for those wanting to climb the higher and more technical Mount Tocllaraju, which is situated in the same valley. MOUNT MATEO 5150m, (one day) – This peak, which is part of the Contrahierbas Massif, is the only one that can be climbed in a single day, leaving Huaraz at 4am and coming back some time in the afternoon. Despite often being described as an
Tourist Information easy climb, it remains a mountaineering expedition that should be undertaken with a qualified guide and all the necessary safety equipment. Intermediate level climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with some mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness. MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, 6034m (four days) – This expedition is perfect for those who have climbed a non-technical summit previously and want to take the next step in the mountaineering world by trying something more technical. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. The relatively short summit ascent makes it a perfect first 6000m+ peak. MOUNT CHOPICALQUI, 6354m (four days) – This expedition has the same technical difficulty level as Mount Tocllaraju, but it is a more difficult climb due to the much longer summit route and higher altitude. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. It offers one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most beautiful ascent routes along its southwest ridge. MOUNT HUASCARAN SOUTH 6768m, (seven days) – Although not very difficult from a technical point a view, this is an extremely tough expedition suitable only for mountaineers with plenty of experience, due to the difficult climbing conditions (crevasses, risk of avalanche, extreme cold and altitude). Do not underestimate the difficulty of this climb.
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WARNING FOR TOURISTS: AVOID THE RATAQUENUA CROSS AND DON´T HIKE FROM THE RUINS OF WILCAHUAIN TOWARDS THE BAÑOS TERMALES IN MONTERREY a detailed list of the necessary equipment and help with logistics, or buy the book Huaraz - The Climbing Guide, which features all the region’s best climbing sites - some 23 sites and over 1,000 routes in total. LOS OLIVOS – This is the closest climbing spot to Huaraz, situated only three kilometres from the town centre. It features a large number of equipped sportclimbing routes in five different sectors, as well as several boulders, suitable for climbers with some experience. From here you get an amazing panoramic view of the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. ANTACOCHA – Situated 35km south of Huaraz in the Cordillera Negra it is one of the few places in the area offering long routes with a variety of difficulty levels, suitable for climbers with limited or a lot of experience alike. The 180m high wall towers high above Lake Antacocha. This place offers a magnificent vantage point of the Cordillera Blanca, especially at sunset. INKA WAQANQA – Situated along the main road to Lima, just past Lake Conococha, this site offers quality rock climbing and bouldering and now counts with some 50 bolted sport climbing routes of all levels. It is the perfect alternative to Hatun Machay, where you can climb safely, in peace and for free! HATUN MACHAY – Located 69km south
of Huaraz at 4300m high in the Cordillera Negra, this stunning rocks forest used to be a paradise for rock climbing and bouldering. Unfortunately, since May 2016 the place has been engulfed in a legal conflict between the community that owns the land and the ex-concessionaire, which resulted in many climbing routes being unbolted and the refuge and adjacent buildings being burned down. The place is now under new management that charges visitors S/15 soles per day or S/25 soles per night, yet offering no facilities. Given that none of the issues mentioned above have been resolved, we do not recommend anyone visiting Hatun Machay at present (for more information see article on page 14). THE SPHINX – Also known as The Colossus of the Andes or ‘La Esfinge’ in Spanish, it is situated 90km northeast of Huaraz in the Paron Valley and is considered to be one of the most amazing granite rock walls in South America, offering a variety of traditional climbing routes with superb views of the snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca surrounding it. Given its extreme altitude (5325m), it is essential to be well acclimatised before setting off on this climb and to have sufficient experience in traditional climbing. It takes an average of three to four days to complete the climb. The tourist Information is provided by assistant manager Marie Timmermans from Belgium of tour agency Quechuandes
Technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with plenty of technical mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness. MOUNT ALPAMAYO, 5947m (seven days) – This is a serious and technically challenging expedition requiring the ascent of a 470m high ice wall. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. Please note that the ascent from base camp to high camp is particularly challenging, given that you need to climb up a 60m high ice wall (at a 55 degree incline), carrying your backpack. Known as the World’s Most Beautiful Mountain, each year Alpamayo attracts many mountaineers from the world over. MOUNT ARTESONRAJU, 6025m (five days) – This is a mentally, physically and technically demanding climb requiring the ascent of a 600m high ice wall, at an incline of 50 degrees. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential, as well as an excellent physical condition. Two ascent routes are possible, either from Lake Paron or from the Santa Cruz Valley.
Trekking and staying overnight in one of our mountain refuges
ROCK CLIMBING & BOULDERING Rock climbing and bouldering spots are plentiful around Huaraz. All types of climbing, all levels, many different types of rock, fantastic views, no chance to get bored! Check with local climbers or travel agencies specialising in rock climbing for
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See the middle page for our exact location in Huaraz
Q
Are you a die-hard football fan? Then it shouldn´t be difficult to recognise these club logos
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Aalesunds FK (Nor), Basel F.C. (Swi), C.C. Catania (Ita), Danubio (Uru),Espérance Sportive (Tun), Fenerbahçe Spor Kulübü (Tur), Go Ahead Eagles (Ned), Hapoel Tel Aviv Football Club (Isr), Íþróttabandalag Akraness IA (Ice), Jomo Cosmos Football Club (Saf), Kalmar FF (Swe), Legia Warsaw (Pol), MTK Budapest FC (Hun), Novi Sad FK (Ser),Odense BK (Den), Perth Glory (Aus), Queens Park Rangers Football Club (Eng), Rayo Vallecano (Spa), Sport Ancash (Per), Tampere United (Fin), Urawa Red Diamonds (Jap), Valletta Football Club (Mal), Wydad Athletic Club (Mor), Xanthi F.C (Gre), Yokohama F.C. (Jap), Zimbru Chișinău (Mol)
Like in the previous editions of The Huaraz Telegraph, we will share the better jokes found on Facebook and the Internet. If you found some you like, send them to us so we can share them with our readers in the next edition of this paper.
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