July 2016 complete edition The Huaraz Telegraph by The Huaraz Telegraph

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THE HUARAZ TELEGRAPH

Made in Huaraz

2nd floor Av. Luzuriaga 646

July 2016

Earlier this year, The Huaraz Telegraph spoke with José Manuel Seminario Bisso, a Peruvian pilgrim. Manuel is an intelligent individual who was about to explain his reasons for commercialising all type of products related to and made of the coca leaf. With his Coca Mobil he is completing a pilgrimage in order to get the sacred coca leaf legal around the world. Interestingly, Manuel once got caught abroad with coca-based products in his possession and was thrown in jail. How did he get out and what does he think about a worldwide known soda brand in the US that is importing many tons of coca leaves from Peru every year?

Free/Gratis!

Secrets of the coca leaf revealed

page 4

Trail runner Emerson Trujillo talks about his passion

Huaraz has a new climbing wall

page 16 Two months ago we saw a smiling Peruvian lad standing alongside the hottest prospect of the Formula 1 circus, the 18-year-old Dutchman Authentic and unique Verstappen. This Peruvian appeared to be Emerson Trujillo Flores Italian ice-cream in Huaraz Max (picture) and he had just won the Wings for Life World Run in Breda in the Netherlands. A great and interesting achievement for a Peruvian in Gelateria / heladería general, but it became even more interesting when we found out that Jr. San Martin 1213, Huaraz, this young man was actually from Huari, not far from Huaraz. How come Tel: 221542, 943627749 RPC 943357147 we had never heard of him before?

page 14

The Chacraraju Expeditions climbing wall opens daily from 10am until 9pm and people interested can also climb after dark as the wall has a roof and sufficient lighting. The wall is made of thick hardwood with six layers of colourful paint and in total 520 silicone moulds which offer different grades and difficulties for all age groups. The colourful climbing wall is located near the petrol station on 27 de Noviembre (formerly known as Tarapacá), four blocks from the main street or the municipal building. The cost is 20 soles for two hours of climbing. Congrats to owner and local guide Rommel Amado Soriano, well done!

Pizzas, beef and more...

Jr. José de la Mar - #776

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The Editorial

The Huaraz Telegraph freely available! The Huaraz Telegraph is available for free at the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. We do not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral. We did however only list those hostels where our target audience is able to read our paper and thus we are very proud to announce that around 50 lodging services in and around Huaraz are happy to provide its guests with multiple monthly editions of The Huaraz Telegraph.

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Getting all noses pointing in the same direction without getting a piece from the cake Last month someone told me that The Huaraz Telegraph had very interesting articles, but that the main tone of the paper should be a lot more positive. Huaraz, after all, is such a great place. I partly agreed. Huaraz has many things on offer. I was listening patiently and waiting for arguments. Huaraz has great hostels, fantastic surroundings and great local and international food and the people are very friendly. Without a doubt it´s great when tourists also come to this conclusion. I would be able to say the same thing about Siem Reap in Cambodia, Luxor in Egypt and Coober Pedy in Australia. All those places are great places to visit as a tourist; however, living there is a whole different ball game. At The Huaraz Telegraph we´re trying to be unbiased and we always worry about our readers. Most of our readers are tourists, apart from some English students who use our newspaper as didactic material, and it is our belief that we should not make things out to be better than they actually are. We prefer to speak out and say that you should avoid the cross of Rataqueña (although we have been informed that the Tourist Police are doing permanent surveillance there now) and should not hike from the Willcahuaín Ruins towards the hot springs in Monterrey. Why do we do this? Are we discrediting the area? No we are not. What we are trying to do is avoid people getting robbed or worse, which would generate more negative publicity for Huaraz and the surrounding area. I can´t recall the last time that the THT was contacted by the Tourist Police or by a tourist saying that someone had been forced to hand over their belongings at those places, so you could conclude that the warnings we´re giving are having an effect. Unfortunately, many small guidebooks that are in circulation in Huaraz simply avoid mentioning this topic because they want to keep it all positive. One more thing, our job, apart from offering you an interesting read, is to make tourism sustainable, and this can only be done by writing the truth and by creating awareness. We are not telling visitors to go to Vallunaraju, Chavín de Huantar or Hatun Machay. I am sure that before getting here tourists have already underlined the restaurants, the hotel or hostel and sights in their guidebook. What is needed, however, and this is also the job of the hostel or hotel, restaurant waitress, local climbing guide or even taxi driver, is a maximum effort to make tourists’ stays the best they´ve had in Peru. The more people that leave Huaraz with a happy feeling, the more chance they will come back one day, or that they will recommend our city. This also includes not selling tours in and around the bus stations, not overcharging customers during the high season, not including a fake or ´gringo´ tax to the bill (tourists are exonerated from paying tax in Peru, unless they´re residents) and having respect for flora and fauna, etc. etc. etc. As you can see, there is still much that needs to be done to make Huaraz a prime destination within Peru because over 90% of the tourists visit Cusco, Arequipa and Puno, but, sadly, Huaraz is visited by less than 4% of all tourists arriving at Jorge Chavez Airport in Lima. In the past, many meetings between tourism entrepreneurs have been held but never have they led to any significant improvements in our city. Last month, the Provincial Municipally of Huaraz held a festival of sport activities at the exact same time as the Festival del Andinsmo, using an almost identical name. Instead of choosing a different date, for example during this month´s celebration of the anniversary of Huaraz, the events were held simultaneously. When the local authorities set such a bad example, it´s time for private investors and the local press to step up and speak out. Unfortunately, this doesn’t happen too often because no one likes to create enemies, and everyone wants a small piece of the same cake. Rex Broekman (founder and editor in chief) PD: Would you like to join our team or fancy sharing your story, or maybe you would like to help us expanding, there are many opportunities available. Please feel free to contact us for more information. Taking all the above into account, please do me a huge favour and visit the businesses that have put their trust in our hands by buying an ad. Try to read our newspaper at those places so the owner will know that their purchase is having an effect. My gratitude will be immense.

Para propietarios de hoteles y hostales en nuestra ciudad: En el caso que hemos excluido su establecimiento, nuestras disculpas. Por favor, póngase en contacto con el Huaraz Telegraph para asegurarse que sea mencionada en la próxima edición de nuestro periódico gratuito.

About the editor of The Huaraz Telegraph Rex Broekman (33) was born in the Netherlands and is living in Huaraz since 2007. During this time he has taught English at the Language Centre of the National University of UNASAM, and to psychology, computer information systems´, civil engineering and architecture students at the San Pedro University in Huaraz. He holds a degree in marketing and is about to finish an additional degree in education at the San Marcos University in Lima. Mr. Broekman founded the newspaper in 2012, and since March 2014 he also works as news anchor of the programme El Informativo at channel three (Mon-Fri 7pm) at Cable Andino in Huaraz. Derecho de autor y deposito legal (esp.)

Descargo de responsabilidad (esp.)

Telegraph® es una marca registrada en INDECOPI. Todos los artículos actuales y anteriores son propiedad y son reclamados por The Huaraz Telegraph y no pueden ser reproducidas por ningún medio sin permiso escrito del Telegraph®. Derecho de autor general sobre todos los contenidos, composición y diseño por The Huaraz Telegraph, Huaraz, Perú - © 2012 – 2016. Hecho el depósito legal: 2013-007727

Nosotros nos sentimos muy orgullosos de comunicar que los artículos publicados son escritos por nosotros o por nuestros lectores. En comparación, existen muchas revistas en circulación en la ciudad y ellas no sobresalen en originalidad porque la gran mayoría de sus artículos vienen de línea recta del internet. Nuestros artículos son originales y con temas interesantes tratamos de llamar la atención del lector. Los textos publicados en The Huaraz Telegraph tienen una finalidad meramente informativa y entretenida. Los artículos publicados en esta edición de ninguna manera tienen la intención de molestar o herir a nadie y simplemente reflejan la opinión de los autores sobre sus experiencias (profesionales) en ciertos eventos, a ciertos comportamientos o hábitos de nuestra sociedad. En el caso que tiene dudas o preguntas, puede dirigirse directamente a nuestro editor.

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016 The Huascarán National Park turns 41 preserving flora and fauna in the Ancash region Huascarán National Park (Spanish: Parque Nacional Huascarán) is home to mountains ranging from 2,000 metres to over 6,000 metres in height and also to numerous interesting birds like the Andean condor (Vultur gryphus), the torrent duck (Merganetta armata) and the puna tinamou (Tinamotis pentlandii). The park covers an area of 340,000 ha (ca. 3,400 km2) and is managed by the Peruvian Network of Protected Natural Areas. The Huascarán National Park was established in 1975 and on June the 1st the park and its employees celebrated its 41st anniversary with a couple of activities in the city of Huaraz. The park offers 660 glaciers and 300 glacial lakes. Most originating in the valleys of the Cordillera Blanca by rivers draining into the Santa River basin, an important resource for many people living alongside the river. However, natural beauty undergoes changes in the presence of climate change (deglaciation), overgrazing of livestock is a threat to native grasses and wetlands, and, finally, illegal mining. As you will read further in our brief news section, last month National Police Forces dismantled illegal mining camps in the park. Tourists visiting the park will be charged 10 soles entrance fee and those staying overnight (2 nights up to 21) will be charged 65 soles. Chacraraju Expeditions has indoor climbing wall installed After months of hard work, Chacraraju Expeditions finally completed the installation of an indoor climbing wall. As one of the biggest in Huaraz it offers a great opportunity for local and foreign climbing fanatics. The installation was completed with private money and shows once more that when as city wants to take steps forward, the investment and initiative of its own citizens is inevitable. The climbing wall is located near the petrol station on 27 de Noviembre (formerly known as Tarapacá), one block from the Casa Jaimes hostel and four blocks from the main street or the municipal building. Other places with an indoor climbing wall are Quechuandes travel agency on the main street and the Monkey Wasi hostel in Huaraz and the Apu Ecolodge near Caraz even has an outdoor climbing wall. Second edition announced

the

AndeTrail

On the 27th of August in Shilla (province of Carhuaz) the second edition of the AndeTrail will be organised. The event includes three different disciplines for both male and female runners and offers spectacular views and a nice award in terms of prize money. The winner of the 40k event will take home S/ 1,500, the 15k event offers 350 soles and the 8k event 150 soles. The 40-kilometre event will start at 2,910 m.a.s.l and travel towards Bosque de Yauko. From there, runners will start a challenging climb towards the Huascaran Refugio at 4,700 m.a.s.l. The trail goes

Brief Local News near the Llanganuco Lake and the finish will be at the Refugio Perú at 4,680 m.a.s.l. AndeTrail 2016 is organised with the help of the National Park Huascarán, The Peruvian Sports Institute and Refugios Andinos. Their website andetrail.org is still under construction at the moment of printing this newspaper. The marathon trail will also benefit people in need of help in the Andes region.

A dream place in the heart of the Andes

¨Peru is well positioned in the US, but only because of Machu Picchu¨ Portal de Turismo interviewed Sergio Curti, an aviation, tourism and hospitality professional from Peru who lives in the United States. In an interesting interview, Curti talks about the difficulties faced by a Peruvian living abroad and especially in the US. He states: ¨In the US definitely you start from scratch. Your CV from Peru is not worth much. Here you must prove your worth and what you’re willing to do. If you master the language, as in my case, it’s a bonus to move faster. I think the biggest challenge facing an immigrant, no matter from what country, is to become creditworthy.¨ Curti, who now works for Frontier Airlines, an ultra-low-cost company in aviation, mentions in the interview that his colleagues obviously have heard of Peru, but when they hear the word Peru, they automatically mention Machu Picchu. The former airport duty manager at Jorge Chavez International Airport further indicates that it´s unbelievable that in 2016, Jorge Chavez Airport still only has one runway. Additionally, the graduate with a master’s in tourism and hospitality marketing recommends the newly elected Peruvian President Pedro Pablo Kuczynski create a Ministry of Tourism, to give the necessary weight to the sector combined with a huge investment in transport infrastructure (airports, roads, ports, railways). Karl Egloff races to a new world record in speed climbing on Huascarán North Karl Egloff, a professional mountain guide from Quito, spent some quality time in Huaraz and its surrounding areas. Not only did he participate in the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca 2016 and as a guest speaker at the Chamber of Commerce for the Inka Fest Mountain Film Festival, he also took the time to explore the area and even to set a new world record. Karl, the youngest of three children, is the son of a renowned Swiss mountain guide (Charly Egloff) and an Ecuadorian mother. Egloff wanted to become a professional football player and when aged 17 he went to Switzerland. Although he did graduate with a degree in business administration, he failed to become a professional football player because of injury. Egloff returned to Ecuador at the age of 25 and started up his guiding business, Cumbre Tours in the Ecuadorian capital. In August 2014, Karl gained international fame by breaking the world record for speed climbing up Mount Kilimanjaro. In February 2015 he broke the world record for ascending Continue reading on page 18

San Sebastian Hotel Boutique Jirón Italia 1124 - Huaraz (Behind the Ministry of Agriculture) 0051-43-426960 / 0051-43-425856 Email: reservas@sansebastianhuaraz.com www.facebook.com/sansebastianhuaraz/ Visit our restaurant “Las Leñas” Andean, creole and international cuisine Open 7/7 from 19:00 to 10:30 VISIT: WWW.THEHUARAZTELEGRAPH.COM

Interview

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Secrets of the sacred leaf revealed and defended by a Peruvian pilgrim Earlier this year we got tipped off that José Manuel Seminario Bisso and his ´Coca Mobil´ were in town. Around the world, there are thousands of people defending the rights of those who cannot speak and José Manuel represents one of them. He is defending the rights of a product native to countries like Peru, Bolivia and Colombia: Erythroxylum coca, better known as the coca plant. José Manuel may be called a pilgrim and with his Coca Mobil he is completing his pilgrimage in order to get the sacred coca leaf legalised around the world. We met him for an interview so he could explain his reasons for commercialising all types of products related to and made of coca leaf. Fifty-nine-year-old, Manuel Seminario was born in Lima and is a psychologist by profession and he also practices journalism but describes himself as an entrepreneur. For the past 25 years, he has been making wholemeal products and is a vegetarian, not eating not even fish. During this time, he discovered that there was an increasing demand for wholemeal products and the sumak kawsay (in its original Quechua meaning, sumak refers to the realisation of an ideal and beautiful planet, while kawsay means life; a dignified life in fullness). Manuel’s interpretation of the meaning of sumak kawsay is complying things such as good nutrition, good thinking, good sex life, good clothes etc. We asked him how his interest in the coca leaf was sparked. This is his story. Roughly 25 years ago, I started making wholemeal cookies. Interestingly, 11 years later I was looking for a way to improve my biscuits when I found out about the coca in powder form (flour). I offer all sorts of cookies made of quinoa, kiwicha (Amaranthus caudatus), cañahua

The Huaraz Telegraph José Manuel Seminario Bisso is trying to show the other side of the coca leaf

(Chenopodium pallidicaule), algarrobo (Ceratonia siliqua), maka and linaza (linseed). Obviously, I had heard of the coca leaf, but when I found out that there existed also coca flour, you should have seen me. It was like I had found green gold. The first product I created was an energy bar based on the coca leaf; however, I needed to go to the Regional Health Directorate in Lima to get the product approved. The Health Directorate normally only declares presented products as innocuous. They don´t qualify products as good or bad, just innocuous or not. Normally it takes around five to seven

The Huaraz Telegraph Newspaper clipping of La República showing the export of coca leaves to the US

days to get the certificate but this time it took a lot longer, it was about 18 months before my energy bar could be sold to the public. Eighteen months! Now wonder why that would be? I am pretty sure that they waited so long on purpose to see if I would lose interest. What´s behind all this is that all people and entrepreneurs that work with cocabased products we are labelled as drug smugglers. It appears to be a defamation campaign. And not casually because I wouldn’t be able to say that the people we´re dealing with don´t know what the product is about. They know exactly what the function of the coca leaf is about. What about the pharmaceutical industry? What do you think the pharmaceutical industry thinks about someone that sells natural products based on the coca leaf and additionally tells people that with this natural product diseases will be a thing of the past? Bear in mind that the coca leaf has been consumed for over 5,000 years now and that spectacular civilizations have constructed the most incredible structures such as Machu Picchu, Chan Chan, Chavín and Caral. These places are still appreciated and people wonder how they were built. So like I said before, it seems more like a defamation campaign against people willing to promote the use of the coca leaf. I am a merchant but also nothing more than a messenger. What I am trying to do is simply say what is the purpose and benefits of the coca leaf. For me coca is the panacea, it will cure everything (in Greek mythology, Panacea [Greek, Πανάκεια] was a goddess of universal remedy). Understand that I have travelled to many places and been to many fairs around the country but what´s really interesting is selling in the street, like I am doing here in Huaraz with my

Coca Mobil. People will tell me during a quick chat what the benefits are of using the coca leaf. I am not making this up, or trying to convince them, no, the people buying my products tell me what the benefits are. People consider it a miracle cure and I have been told stories that, for example, a diabetic can stop to injecting insulin. (The Huaraz Telegraph does not advise diabetics stop using insulin. Please take advice from your doctor before making any changes to your medication.) If we look back in history there are some interesting changes that have happened in the medical and pharmaceutical industry, which are, according to my point of view, related to the coca leaf. During the Second World War, Dr. Josef Mengele, a German Schutzstaffel (SS) Nazi officer and physician in the Auschwitz concentration camp practised thousands of human experiments. Most of these terrible experiments led to the development of new medications. And then shortly after WWII there was the American dominance of the markets, which is still happening today because Americans believe they are the ´owners´ of the modern world. No one criticised the two atom bombs dropped in Japan, even though this was a massive abuse of power. What is the problem with the coca leaf? Aren’t there many other and much bigger problems in the world such as having sufficient tap water, mining, and destruction of the planet etcetera? Anyway, referring to the American domination of the world, on the 30th of March in 1961, the use of the coca leaf was banned worldwide at the Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs in New York. Terrible things were said about the function of the coca leaf, which finally led to a very negative campaign to get the

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016 leaf destroyed. Much propaganda was spread by pseudo journalists with the only objective to demolish the coca leaf. In Peru the coca leave has been consumed since the earliest civilization in Caral a mere 5,000 years ago until 500 years ago when the Spaniards set foot on our soil. Explorer Christopher Columbus even mentioned in his chronicles that on the fourth day while exploring Peru, the locals had some strange leaves in their mouths and that they were chewing them all day long. What else can this have been? Coca leaves obviously. Why do the Americans have to decide what product we can or cannot consume? The coca plant has never been manipulated. Let me explain that it´s all about energy! Like I said before I have travelled a lot and I have seen how many people have had positive experiences with the coca leaf. And I believe that the coca leaf should benefit every human being; however, this is not possible unfortunately but does it matter the leaf is native to Peru? Many people around the world are suffering from universal chronic fatigue, which is caused by bad nutrition, employment and family stress, and bad politics making people feel dejected. Who wakes up nowadays and looks at the sun and says, what a beautiful day it is today? No, people start the day by saying, not again! So this natural tiredness of people around the world has created brands like Red Bull, and even the Coca-Cola Company has expanded distribution in the global energy drink category. This means there is much money involved in the energy drink market. However, all these dinks are in reality drugs because all drinks contain caffeine and taurine. This compound is not based on plants but on alkaloids, which have important physiological effects on humans and animals and are a group of naturally occurring chemical compounds that contain mostly basic nitrogen atoms. Now a green plant that finds its origin in the Andes, nourished by mother earth and strengthened by the sun that is not manipulated becomes forbidden, strange no? People selling products based on plants have more difficulties than businesses selling chemicals for human consumption. Remember that I can only sell my coca products in Peru and Bolivia. This is one of the reasons that a couple of intelligent businessmen united in Lima one day and founded the Asociación Peruana de la Hoja de Coca (Peruvian Association of the Coca Leaf). There are also three associations of coca producers in Peru. But the purpose of our association is to promote the use of the coca leaf. We have held speeches and expositions in different countries such as Ecuador, Bolivia and Argentina and the next one will be in Colombia where we will share our knowledge and concerns. Colombia has prohibited the use of the coca leaf with the exception of indicated indigenous reservations. I have sold coca leaf-based products around the world, even though this is prohibited. Do you know Mahatma Gandhi? He employed civil disobedience, believing that an unjust law should be disobeyed. I follow the same practice and have always got away with it. So what you are saying is that you just

Interview

cross the border into other countries risking getting jailed or worse? Well, logically I have to hide my products. Of course! I have many secret compartments in my van, which work like crates. I have to admit that when I cross the border I am not taking that many products with me as I have at the moment in my van. Let me tell your readers that in 2012 in Colombia, I didn’t have any merchandise. But a friend of mine in Colombia had a company called Coca Nasa (an economic project generated by an indigenous community) and he helped me out with some products, which I tried to sell. In Pamplona, close to the Venezuelan border I was held up by a policeman in an area outside of the so-called indigenous reservations. The police told me that I could not sell those products and that I had to follow him to the police station. They impounded my Coca Mobil, my products and even threw me in jail. I was travelling with a Norwegian girl at the time and lucky me the day before my arrest, the leaders of the FARC (the guerrilla movement of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) united with the Colombian Government to discuss a ceasefire and peace negotiations with help of the Norwegian Government. I have to admit that at the time of the arrest, I knew that the police were doing the right thing and that there was nothing to complain about. What happened was that pretty quickly some friends of mine heard about the arrest and tried to provide me a lawyer. I might have tried to bribe the police but I didn’t because it was more a case of respect. They were doing their job, and I was doing mine. When the ombudsman showed up he started to talk to the police and reminded him of the fact that Norway had led the peace talks and that they were about to send a 20-yearold from Norway to prison, it made them change their mind. We were released and I got all my products, including the van back. You don’t consider coca a drug? Nowadays, in schools children are told that coca is a drug. A smart pupil, however, will ask their teacher how on earth did the Incas construct Machu Picchu if they were drugged all the time, right? This would be a smart question, wouldn’t it? Should we feel ashamed of the fact that our ancestors consumed coca leafs? Imagine a young smartass that tells his grandfather that he shouldn’t chew coca leaves because at school they told him that these are drugs. It´s the world upside down. The result is that the elderly will feel embarrassed that they are using coca leaves. Another worrying thing is that Quechua language, the traditional colourful cloths and many other old traditions in our country are held contempt by our own society. The key word here is domination, or better said control. The world is globalising and it´s not good that a European, an Asian and an African child thinks and learns the same things. To let everybody think the same, people should first be disconnected from what they once were. Anyway. The coca plant is a very generous plant as it lasts over 25 years and offers four Continue reading on page 6

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Interview

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Continuation of page 4

harvests through the year. In many Andean places where nothing grows, people only have this plant and that´s how they make a bit of money. The government of Ollanta Humala and the United Nations only try to destroy the coca plant and this is, sadly, applauded by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) who seems to offer ´something´ in return. Let me paint the following picture: imagine the world packed with tanks, police and army with masks and machine guns killing plants? This is how I see the world; ridiculous, like something out of a comic. Many people in the Andes that have a small little farm often have to run for their lives when army helicopter circles above their small houses when they are about to destroy another hectare of coca plants. Returning to the pilgrimage you’re completing, what is exactly your mission and when will it end? Because of tiredness, we will win! That´s how I call it. Maybe Colorado is a good example, I believe that there are four states in the US that are selling marijuana at the moment for recreational or medical use, although the federal law dictates that the use, possession, sale, cultivation, and transportation of cannabis is illegal. I believe that someone who wants to use cocaine, heroin or marijuana, uses it because he or she wants to. Not because it´s forbidden or illegal! It´s like saying, let´s forbid it because the people are not consuming it. Now if heroin were legal, would I be an addict? There must be another way, but this is up to more powerful people. Do you know where the most violent triangle in the world is? In Nicaragua, Honduras and El Salvador more people die than in Afghanistan, Iran or Iraq and those countries aren’t even at war! This is because drugs pass through those countries. In South America we suffer death while in the US and Europe people are enjoying our product. If it wasn’t a good product, people wouldn’t pay for it or use it, would they? It´s an enormous business of course but the biggest part goes to the dealers and not to the local producers. What I am trying to say is that we should find a way to make sure that cocaine isn’t causing all the violence it is doing right now. There must be a way! My pilgrimage will end when the UN take coca plant related products off their forbidden list, but I might be dead by then because this will take probably a while. Remember it took me 18 months to get my energy bar based on the coca leaf approved. Capitalism in general is falling apart and I believe we should go back to the life of our ancestors, the indigenous people who have a highly respected relationship with nature. Well, this is what I believe and if others think differently, I have no problems with that. How do locals react when they find out you´re in town? Very good, I always get positive reactions from the people. This is the fourth time that I have come to Huaraz. Huaraz is a nice place and I like to be here as I have many friends. However, the first time there were some people that looked surprised

The Huaraz Telegraph José Manuel in front of his Coca Mobil with some products in his hands

and I have been insulted by some in the beginning. They were asking how on earth I could sell drugs on the street, but not anymore. So returning to the benefits of the coca leave, what does it offer according to you? That´s very simple, it offers energy. The coca leaf powder I sell offers a lot of energy and if you were to drink just a glass of water, or orange juice, you should really consider adding a teaspoon of coca leaf powder. It will offer you enough energy that will last four hours. My market is the same as Red Bull´s market. You could say we´re competitors, this is funny isn’t it? Did you know that in Quechua the plant is called Coca Mama? Coca means plant in Quechua and mama means mother, which means that this plant is considered the mother of all plants. People often haven’t got a clue. I sell many products like coca wine, coca pisco and even apple nectar with coca flavour. I sell basically everything and even sweet bread loaf Panettone made of coca flour. In terms of minerals, every 100 grams of coca leaves offers small quantities of calcium, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron, sodium, strontium, aluminium, barium, boron, copper, zinc and chromium. It also offers 3.68 mg of fat, 47.50 mg of carbohydrate and 19.50 mg in proteins. But that´s not all, the leaf is also full of vitamins. There is beta-carotene, alphacarotene, thiamin, riboflavin and niacin in it, which can cure different diseases such as depression, gastritis, amnesia, diabetes, osteoporosis, osteoarthritis, hypertension and hypotension. You now see how powerful this plant actually is? Do you have children and what do they

think about their dad? I have a very good relationship with my three children, and they help me with the elaboration of the products. I am a grandfather; I have two grandchildren. On my trips I am on my own normally but there are always friends that want to join me in my van. I sometimes wake up in the morning, as I sleep in the van, and then without having washed my face I have customers knocking on my door and have to attend them. I am a pilgrim 24 hours a day, seven days a week. This is sometimes tiring but very satisfying as well as I can easily make a living of it. I must, however, not show that I am yawning or that I am tired because remember that I am selling energy! Haha, this is sometimes funny when I have driven over ten hours and I get to some new place, the first thing people ask is why I am tired! I have still many roads to travel through South America, and I hope to go to Europe as well. I remember that a mere ten years ago I could easily buy coca tea in supermarkets in Lima such as Wong and Tottus, but in December last year, I couldn’t find a single package. Does this mean that in the capital the people are no longer consuming coca tea? In our nation´s capital, coca is seen as an indigenous product; a product that belongs and belonged to the poor from the Andes. These coca teas are made by ENACO (Empresa Nacional De La Coca), which is the only company in Peru that is allowed to make coca related products. The Peruvian Constitution says that our country is protected from monopolies but sadly ENACO is an exception to the rule. If I buy coca leafs from an agriculturist I am doing something illegal, but it´s alright

for ENACO. Although ENACO sells it for ten times the price compared to what the farmers get. So what I do is I buy it from the farmers but pay them the same price as ENACO charges. This is how we both win. Because the US and the UN, ENACO has a job to eliminate the coca leaf and not to commercialise it. However, one of the biggest producers of a worldwide known soda brand in the US is importing many tons of coca leaves, what a contradiction no? Rounding up the interview, we bought a couple of his products and wished him good luck with his pilgrimage. We did, however, wonder how Patrick Bertrand (French owner of Creperie Patrick in Huaraz), producer of Licor de Coca thought about ENACO. Would he be able to sell his product across the border? According to Patrick, ENACO is indeed the biggest supplier of coca leaves for the US. He told us that unfortunately it isn’t possible to export his coca liquor but that when tourists want to send a bottle overseas, it passes though costumes without any problems. Patrick also showed us an interesting newspaper clipping from La República. In the article published in June, on Friday the 13th, of 2003, it says that ENACO exported its first 22,680 kilos of coca leaves to the United States, worth U$ 68,000 at the time. This was only the first of 92 tons that were requested by an American company called Stepan Company based in New Jersey. Interestingly, the article also claims that 120 kilos of pure cocaine was shipped across the border to Germany and England. Apparently, for investigation, medicinal and pharmaceutical use only.

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Advertorial/Publirreportaje

Have you already visited us? We´re to be found at Parque de Ginebra near the Plaza de Armas and offer all kinds of services like great food and local made craft beer K – Knowledge

Welcome to our ABC! In this second edition of The Huaraz Telegraph we would like you to show a little insight into what our business is about. We will continue with the alphabet Trece Búhos by telling you what the letter H till M are about. We shall continue until you have seen all 26! Hope to see you soon at Trece Búhos!

H – Halloween

Trece Búhos is the organizer of many interesting parties, like ´so you think you can sing´ derived from the Peruvian television program Yo Soy (I am). For the highlight of the year you will still have to wait a little bit longer until the 31st of October. This day is known as All Hallows Eve, the origin of the American word Halloween! In later years, the Irish used hollowed-out, candlelit turnips carved with a demon’s face to frighten away the spirits. In the 1840s when Irish immigrants found few turnips in the United States, they used the more plentiful pumpkins instead. At our place everyone comes in fancy dress and we celebrate with the biggest party of the year. The best-dressed male and female guests go home with some fabulous gifts provided by Lucho and his team. Last year we had mummies, devils, vampires, pirates (not from the Caribbean), bees and even a Hulk Hogan lookalike. Our Halloween parties are legendary, and a good reason to come back to Huaraz in October!

I – Instruments

Our place is the perfect to test your guitar or voice. We have some instruments available in the bar and visitors can also bring their own. And this makes it even more interesting to come to 13 Búhos. You could be a singer or band playing to the crowd on a busy Friday or Saturday night out. You don’t need to be the most experienced singer or musician in the world. We provide the stage and you do the rest. The reactions of the public will decide how long you stay on, worst case scenario is that you are forced to withdraw by the audience, but there will be some sweet Lucho´s Beers waiting for you to cheer you up.

L – Lucho’s Beers

J- Joy

For all football fans out there come and enjoy all the live matches and the Olympic Games at 13 Búhos. We open from 10am and as it might be a little too early for the first beer; we also offer juices and excellent coffee. While watching some football, did you know that Peru has not taken part in the World Cup since 1982. But this shouldn’t stop you from wearing an official Peruvian football kit. Even if you don’t like football, it´s still enough reason to visit our establishment because there will be others from all over the world enjoying the good atmosphere. M – Music

Lucho’s beers or ales are one of a kind, and come in different flavours. Our ales are top-fermented; meaning that the yeast floats on the surface of the liquid during the fermentation process, rather than sinking to the bottom as in a lager. Our ales contain hops, which help to preserve the beer and impart a bitter herbal flavour that balances the sweetness of the malt. Lucho has three kinds of ales on offer: Blondie, as the name suggest, has a nice blond colour; Red has a sweeter taste; and Black, the most popular of the three. All our ales are available in two types of bottles, a small one for the passionate drinker, and a big bottle for the thirsty drinker. Lucho’s beers are all made by the owner of 13 Búhos. Additionally, did you know that 13 Búhos has two types of beers based on the sacred leaf from the Andes?

Did you know that knowledge for some is equivalent to power? There exists no single definition of knowledge, though there are numerous theories to explain it. The philosopher Plato famously defined knowledge as “justified true belief”. If you want to check your knowledge or just want to philosophize a little bit, you have come to the right address! Our personnel is always in for a little chat if we are not too busy attending to other customers, and our owner Lucho has so many stories and theories about live and existence, it´s definitely worth a visit. Furthermore, our domicile is the perfect place to sit back and get a bit smarter as we have a collection of books, magazines and even dictionaries. Enjoy the afternoon sun on our terrace, while eating a delicious pancake with cream, chocolate and ice. There is plenty of time to read about the history of Huaraz, what treks or hikes to consider, or just appreciate some interesting poems. In 13 Búhos you can also find interesting photo collections and some of the best art around.

The golden combination of beers and búhos

Thanks to the recent archaeological discoveries of musical instruments, experts now know that in Peru music has been played at least as far back as 10,000 years ago. This ancient tradition created quenas, zampoñas, pututos (trumpets made from sea shells), and a wide variety of other wind instruments. The encounter between the Andes and the Western World has given rise in Peru to 1,300 musical genres. But two of them have crossed the country’s borders and have become symbols of Peru’s identity: Huayno and Marinera. Today, Peru continues to assimilate new instruments such as synthesizers, electric guitars, drums and harmonicas. Local musicians are also creating new genres like Chicha or Peruvian Cumbia, enabling Peru’s music to open up to new influences to expand both at home and abroad, beyond native folk music. At 13 Buhós we have a large collection of music from all over the world, and it only takes a small chat with our DJ to check if your favourite song is next.

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Expat in Huaraz

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

The Peruvian dream

According to the National Institute of Statistics and Informatics (I.N.E.I) 12,187 foreigners entered Peru in 2012 and stayed for over a year. The Huaraz Telegraph is wondering whether these visitors came to see the wonders of Peru, or were they looking for the Peruvian dream? If the American dream is the idea that success is possible for every individual, does the Peruvian dream exist? And if so, can you reach for those ideals on the Latin American continent being an expat? It is fairly easy to spot a tourist in Hua- year, after one year Gringos are considraz, with their tiny day-sacks and camera ered immigrants in the Republic of Peru, around their necks, whereas expats blend be it legal or illegal. in; they adapt to the local way of life. But what motivates a person to uproot their There is no denying that the number of entire lives, and leave their family and immigrants has increased over the years friends to go and live on another conti- and between 2007 and 2012 there were nent? Over the course of the season The 55,616 immigrants representing 62.3% of Huaraz Telegraph will endeavour to inter- all registered immigrants in the analysis view expats living in Huaraz, to give the period of 1994 to 2012. To make a small readers an insight into why they decided comparison, in the last six years measured to do just that. But first let’s look at some concern over 50.0% of the immigrants interesting statistics. Although the follow- from the period of analysis. The period being national stats are accurate there is no tween the years 2001 – 2006 represented statistical information on how many for- 18,499 incoming foreigners representing eigners live in the Áncash region. 20.7% of all registered immigrants during the study period, while the years 1994 to In the period from 1994 to 2012, there 2000 represent 17.0% of total registered were 89,320 registered foreigners resid- immigrants. The number of foreign immiing in Peru that did not leave the country. grants in Peru has a greater dynamism Between 1994 and 2004 the number of in the last years of the study. Until 2003 foreigners entering Peru did not exceed foreign immigrants did not exceed 20,000, 3,500, and between 2004 and 2006 the this number doubles in 2007 becoming number of foreigners living in Peru did 40,446, and in 2012 the number of foreign not exceed 5000. From 2007 the number immigrants in Peru rose to 89,320. increased to over 6,000 and in 2012 that number had risen to a staggering 12,187. Dividing the entry of foreign immigrants It´s important to mention that, even though into different periods (in years) and having Peru has a law stating that visitors can the estadisticas de la emigración internationly stay up to a maximum of 183 days a cional de peruanos e inmigración de ex-

The number of immigrants in Peru is growing by the year (I.N.E.I. stats)

tranjeros 1990-2012 in hand, one can see that the average annual immigration per period is becoming a growing trend during the last three periods, except from 2001 to 2003. On average, only 2,357 people crossed the border into Peru between 2001 and 2003. Between 1994 and 2012 the annual average is 4,701 surpassing this in the last two periods 2007-2009 and 2010-2012, reaching average immigration figures from 7,420 and 11,118 respectively, the latter being six times higher than the average income of foreign immigrants of the first period (1994-1997). When analysing the gender of the newcomers it´s remarkable that the population of males is by far bigger than the opposite sex. Men

represent 66.8% of the immigrants while only 29,636 (33.2%) are female. Since 1994, men have represented more than 60% of the immigration population, but in 2012 they reached 70.9%. In the document found on the I.N.E.I website the distribution of foreign migrants is also represented by age group. A chart shows that the predominant age group is the 30 to 34 year-olds representing 12.2 % of all immigrants. Immigrants from 35 to 39 years of age characterise 12.1 % during the period from 1994 to 2012. This is followed by the 40 to 44 years old with 11.2%, continued by the group of 25 – 29 years old (10.7%). On the other hand, the highest percentage of immigrants are aged from 15 to 49, representing 68.2 % of all immigrants. Looking at the gender population pyramid, the concentration is in the middle, being narrower at the base and that there is an increase in the first and last group. Immigrants aged under 15 count for 6.8% and are distributed almost evenly between men (3.7 %) and women (3.1%). People older than 59 years of age represent 10.3% and are distributed between 6.3% men and 4.0% women. Of the total number of 83,628 immigrants over 14 years of age, 33.7% are declared to be single whereas 199 people are said to be widowed, and 98 are divorced. Between 1994 and 2012, 89,320 foreigners were considered to be new residents of Peru without any migration movement noticed and just before the document starts to talk about the country of origin, it mentions that 69,277 people (representing 77.6%) have come to Peru by air, entering the country at Jorge Chavez National Airport. A small 8.6% entered from the south in Tacna (Santa Rosa), 2.3% from Bolivia (Desaguadero), and a 1.4% came from the north, crossing the border from Ecuador at Aguas Verdes. A total of 3,378 (3.7%) arrived at the harbour of Callao (probably shipwrecked and unable to return home).

All statistics on Peruvian international emigration and foreign immigation by the I.N.E.I on: http://www.inei.gob.pe/media/MenuRecursivo/publicaciones_digitales/Est/Lib1102/libro.pdf

Continue reading on page 10

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Advertorial/Publirreportaje

Heinrich Bosshard is in his sixties and a heavy equipment mechanic, but in Huaraz he is known at El Tío Enrique. El Tio Enrique is a brand-new establishment selling all sorts of different chorizos (sausages), Swiss chocolates, authentic Swiss knives and Glühwein (mulled wine). His huge and fantastic fridge filled with imported European beers make Enrique´s secondfloor place a must visit after you have conquered some peaks in the Andes. El Tío Enrique is open from 5p.m. and offers you a whole variety of Belgian, German, English and even Peruvian beers, such as London Pride, Old Speckled Hen, Paulaner, Erdinger, La Guillotine, Duvel, and Lima´s craft beer Barbarian. Check our beer list on the right-hand side of this page and make sure you come and try those malt liquors that are specially imported for tourists in Huaraz.

The specialty of the former titleholder of the former Monte Rosa Inca Pub is without a doubt his delicious sausages but, there is a lot more on offer. Another dish not to miss is Argentine beef. Those wanting something lighter before boarding their bus could choose the antipasto. Antipasto literally means “before the meal”, and is the traditional first course of a formal Italian meal. The dish served at El Tio Enrique includes cured meats, olives, fresh cheese and sausages.

house is Glühwein (mulled wine). Also worth a shot (or a glass in this case) are some specially imported liqueurs such as Disaronno Originale (28% abv), which is made in Italy. It is amarettoflavored, with a characteristic bittersweet almond taste. How about Jägermeister? This is a German digestif made with 56 herbs and spices and is 35% alcohol by volume. For those who prefer nonalcoholic beverages, there is also coffee, tea, cappuccino and espresso coffee.

As most beers are imported, we might not have all beers in stock

El Tío Enrique has a fast Wi-Fi connection and the most important sport events such as this summer’s 2016 Olympics, officially known as the Games of the XXXI Olympiad, and commonly known as Rio 2016 (August 5, 2016 – August 21, 2016) can be followed on big screens. NFL matches are also live on screens and when the screen is off, just aks us to switch it on for you. El Tío Enrique is located only two blocks from bus companies such as Línea Transportes and Cruz del Sur, and is around the corner from Nova Plaza. The central location makes it a convenient stop during a night out at the surrounding discothèques or bars. While enjoying your beer, don’t forget to ask about Carne seca (dried meat, in Spanish), which is a kind of dried beef and ideal to take with you while heading out for the mountains. When you meet Elena, ask her about her pudding desserts, absolutely sweet and recommended after a cheese fondue, for example. In terms of drinks, apart from a spectacular beer menu, Make sure you´re hungry and thirsty when the second-floor establishment offers different Chilean, visiting us and we´ll make sure that you will have Argentinian and Peruvian wines, but the specialty of the a wonderfull evening at a very special place.

Chimay Red Cap is the oldest of the Chimay beers. Its coppery colour and sweet, fruity taste make this a particularly delightful brown beer. Treat yourself, as it blends perfectly with the cheese fondue at Tio Enrique

Fuller’s Organic Honey Dew is the UK’s best-selling organic beer. It is made from 100% organic ingredients, and is approved by the Soil Association. A light golden beer with a zesty edge and a hint of honey sweetness. Made in Chiswick, London

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Expat in Huaraz

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Continuation of page 8

The authors of the report declare that there exists a strong concentration of regional immigrants referring to 31.6% of foreigners coming from Latin American countries such as Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. Americans (from the USA) with 12.4% are the biggest group of newcomers, followed by the Chinese with 9.3% and Bolivians with 7.8%. As you just have read, you will need to stay in Peru for over a year to qualify for the status of immigrant. This is also the main condition for our interviewee plus the fact that he or she should live in Áncash. We kick off the continuation and our sixteenth version of our expat article with Joachim from Switzerland. Joachim is just one of the many Swiss that are living in Huaraz and after previously having interviewed his boss Mario Holenstein and his compatriot Heinrich Bosshard (el Tío Enrique), it´s now Joachim´s turn. What would he think about the city and more importantly, what would he do if he were to become mayor of Huaraz one day? This is his story. 1. Who are you? First, thanks for the interview. My name is Joachim Fust and I am from Switzerland. I am the husband of a Peruvian lady from Huaraz and we have one son together. Our son is almost five years old now. I am from the Sankt Gallen area in the Tokenburg valley. The village I am from is called Bütschwil, which is very small and has about 3,500 habitants. 2. How old are you and what’s your profession? I am 34 years old and in Switzerland I studied Kauf Management (sales and administration related career) at university level and later I also studied three years of tourism. 3. How long have you been living in Huaraz?

The Huaraz Telegraph Joachim Fust is from Switzerland and is living in Huaraz since 2009. He is married and has one son

zerland to finish my studies and at the end of 2008, the owner of the hotel, Mario Holenstein, asked me if I would be interested in coming back to Peru to work at the hotel. Now I am doing the administration of the hotel, I am basically my boss´s right hand. So that´s what brought me to Huaraz. I try to go back to Switzerland every year as I have all my friends and family still living there. Since I have been living here I have been back five times. I haven’t been back for the last two years and won´t be able to either this year because I am also studying an online career at the Goethe-Institut in Lima, which means that I need to go to Lima every now and then for my exams. Hopefully, I will finish my course before the end of the year. 5. How has your life changed over the years?

Quite a lot to be honest, especially when I became a father here in Peru. Let´s put it this way, when I was ´younger´ I went out a lot more and was enjoying a single man´s life. Now being a father and being married I have other responsibilities as you will understand. I think that this must be the biggest change over the years. But don’t get me wrong, it´s an interesting change of lifestyle and I feel happy and proud, which is very important. Maybe another interesting change is that when I got here I was a true Swiss, and now I have to admit that I feel half Peruvian, half Swiss (laughing). Switzerland is very well organised and this is sometimes difficult when you arrive in a culture like the Peruvian. But I have superbly adapted myself to this new life. You know as well that here in Huaraz we need to count to three sometimes and things are not developing as fast as in Europe.

Firmly, I would say that I am living in Huaraz officially since January 2009, but I had been to Huaraz a couple of times before that. 4. What brought you to Huaraz? Well, like I said, the first time I got to Huaraz is some time ago, it was back in 2003 as a backpacker. I came here with a friend. We initially came to Huaraz to learn a bit of Spanish, and I did actually get some lessons here. After that I travelled through South America and came back to Huaraz in 2005. I came back to Huaraz for a reason; I was about to complete an internship at the Andino Club Hotel because of my studies in tourism that I was carrying out. I not only worked in Huaraz, but also in the capital Lima and in Cusco, but most of the time I was in Huaraz as that´s where the hotel is located. I then went back to Swit-

6. What are your favourite hangout spots in Huaraz? I like to go to my compatriot El Tio Enrique a lot, who is also a good friend. Additionally, 13 Búhos, Café Andino, Pizzeria B&B and Mi Comedia. Those are the places that I like to spend some quality time. Like I mentioned before, I am not going out that much because of my work, and because I am a married man and father now. But it´s good to sometimes escape from the stress and relax. 7. What is it you miss the most from back home? That´s simple, my friends and my family in Switzerland. I don’t miss any Swiss delicatessen as here in the Andino Club Hotel I am at home. Here we have the main Swiss food and every now and then people bring original Swiss chocolate, which I like a lot. I couldn’t name you any more products; I believe that I miss my relations the most. Peru is a very rich country that has everything and in very good quality. Now I recall another thing that I miss from back home which is going to the AFG Arena in St. Gallen. I miss visiting matches of FC St. Gallen (Fussballclub St. Gallen 1879) as I always used to go. Now I have no other choice I am visiting the home matches of Sport Áncash F.C. at the Rosas Pampa stadium in Huaraz. I don’t miss a match! I always go on my own. 8. What is it you like most about Huaraz?

The Huaraz Telegraph Joachim Fust works at the Andino Club Hotel

That´s a tough question actually. I believe the nature and fresh air around the city to start with. You can´t compare it with

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016 Switzerland but compared with Lima it´s a relief as it´s not stressful. Huaraz is very tranquil and you can basically walk to everything because it´s small. As I am from a small place myself I like Huaraz because people know each other. The people here are friendly as well and the delinquency is not bad compared to some other Peruvian places in the north of the country such as Casma, Chimbote or Trujillo. You can live here very well so I am not worried yet to suffer from a burnout (laughing out loud). 9. What’s your opinion of the tourist business in Huaraz? Huaraz as a region has everything, starting with a fabulous flora and fauna. Guests at the hotel always tell me that we are lucky living here with such beautiful landscapes and the fact that all sites are easily accessible. I do think, however, that tourism is very poorly managed. There is a lot of informality and there is no team work as everyone is doing what he believes is the right thing. The responsible authorities are not doing enough either to get things going or improved. Let me give you one example. We have many guests at the hotel that like to go to Chavín de Huantar. Some actually come to Huaraz just to visit the archeological site because it has been so important in the past. The route towards the complex is still unpaved after the tunnel of Kahuish. I believe that just recently they have started to pave it. Or just not that long ago during Easter. Remember that the Huaraz authorities decided to pave the San Martin parking lot again? But during the peak season buses were parked all around the city because they hadn’t finished it. I would like to keep it positive so I would like to emphasise the huge potential our area has. Huaraz is the Holy Grail for climbers and has much more to offer than Nepal, for example. To get things improved, people working in tourisms should be trained and educated by professionals that have a large amount of experience in the sector. I remember that a couple of months ago Prom Peru (a promotion entity of the Ministry of Foreign Trade and Tourism of Peru) launched their campaign called ¨¿Y tú qué planes?¨ We received an invitation for a training meeting and they announced that the event would start at 4 o’clock. Five minutes to five the meeting hadn’t started yet! I can´t call a training session when even the organisers don’t take things seriously. At the hotel we have many students of the national university Santiago Antúnez de Mayolo in Huaraz that are willing to do an internship. The problem is that the students are required to seek their training period in their free time. So what happens is we get students that tell us that they are available for only a couple of hours during the week, sometimes in the morning, sometimes in the afternoon. The youngsters are our only hope; they are still interested in tourism because they know they get to know different people, cultures and languages. Tourism is a sec-

Expat in Huaraz

tor that has many interesting features on offer. I am sure that many are interested in working in tourism, but the whole sector needs an upgrade. The youngsters doing their internship, for example, are trying to speak English but they simple can´t although they have been told that their level is intermediate. What is important is that they are trying, that is something I can always appreciate. 10. What sites or activities do you recommend (or not) to our readers? Well, let me recommend some things that I personally like to do. Chilca is a very small village that lies just before the Wilcacocha Lake and offers a spectacular view of the whole Cordillera Blanca. Chavín de Huantar and actually the whole valley of Conchucos are worth visiting. Especially Laguna Purhuay that is located seven kilometres from Huari and the Sanctuary of the Lord of Pomallucay in Pomallucay. Those are beautiful places, like Llanganuco when it´s not overcrowded with people. 11. If you were to become the Mayor of Huaraz one day, what would you do or change? I would begin with finding a way to educate the people. I believe in the centre of the city there is one garbage bin. That is definitely not enough. I would go to colleges and make the youth understand what the meaning of trash is. At a municipal level I would try to eliminate corruption. This will be difficult because Peruvians are so used to it, that it will be very hard, but I would like to show that you can reach many things without filling your pockets with community money. When you are raised with corruption, you will think that this is normal. The city taken as city is nothing exceptional, so in terms of architecture I would urge people to finish off their houses. Another item is the (traffic) noise, especially at night. Local businesses should all have a license to operate and this is not the case at the moment. If I want to open an auto repair shop tomorrow, invading the streets, no one will say a thing, which is bad. Having said all this, I believe the core thing is education although this might be a state thing and not so much a local element. 12. Are you living the Peruvian dream (explain)? If this means, being happy and being happy with what one has, yes I believe so. Peru has many things on offer. I felt welcome the day I got here and feel well integrated into the Peruvian society. 13. How do you see your future in Peru? I am still young, happily. It´s difficult to predict but I believe that I will be living here for a while more. No one knows what happens in the future but I am very happy with my wife and son. There will probably no short-term moves from our part.

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Opinion

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Huaraz guide booklets analysed by a former publisher

Since a month ago, Huaraz has two printed tourist guide booklets. The first one is the 15th anniversary edition published by Mauro Olaza and is called The Map Guide Huaraz Peru (TMG), and a newcomer to the publishing market is The Ancash Tourist Guide (ATG), published by Fredy Cristhian Huallpa Bueno. We asked former American publisher James McCallum to have a look at both booklets and to give us his verdict. McCallum has visited the Huaraz area on a number of occasions and has hiked almost all of the trails in the Cordillera Blanca, Negra and Huayhuash for the past 20 years. What would this expert think about the two products that can be found for free at most places that have bought an advertisement in Huaraz? Were they just made to make a profit or do they really contribute to make Huaraz a better place and serve the tourist industry in Huaraz? Investigation and research executed by James McCallum American traveller & freelance journalist

An introduction to both products TMG started in 1998 as a simple publication that offered tourist information and a black and white map of Huaraz. This publication formed the start of an interesting option for tourists and became finally an ideal pocket guide book for the Huaraz area. TMG has always offered information on Huaraz and its surroundings but additionally also counts with handy info on personal safety, prohibitions, documents, money and travelers assistance. There is also space for other destinations away from Huaraz such as Lima, Cusco and Trujillo although the information is very limited. TMG has been dominating the market for at least 10 years as no other product existed that could cope with the quality of TMG. TMG is known for repeating the same information over and over again and charging vast prices for advertisements. Very few times in 15 years of publication the information was updated. ATG published their first edition at the end of May 2016 and started to look for advertisers far before TMG did. This and the fact that the ads were reasonable cheap, has generated that many advertisers that have been backing TMG for years, are now to be found in ATG. The publisher of ATG had formerly worked on another pocket map guide called Recorriendo Huaraz. James McCallum will now compare both productions and will analyse the size, the editorial/index, maps, tourist information, spelling, grammar and translations, font used, printing quality, photos used, usefulness and articles, and a comparison with the previous editions published by the same author. Both productions can score a maximum of 10 points and a total of 100. Who has the best product? 1.

Size and cover/front

TMG is a couple of millimeters bigger compared to the ATG which is surprising in the first place because TMG had a different size during the previous 14 editions. TMG used to be a pocket edition and by making it bigger, not only did it become heavier, it hardly fits in someone´s pockets now. TMG should have kept its original size as now two products seem identical and TMG has lost its identity. Probably the lack of sold ads could have been a reason for TMG to change its size. I like the front

page because as it has a nice picture and it mentions its website and Facebook. Another thing I like is that this edition doesn’t have the back folding front and back page which were not handy. ATG appears to just have copied the format of its previous production Recorriendo Huaraz and is a lot thicker compared to TMG. I also have to mention that the name Ancash is poorly chosen because I believe that very few foreign tourists know what Ancash actually is. I would have chosen a different name because in the more known guidebooks like Loney Planet, Rough Guide and Routard the word is only mentioned a couple of times. Another thing that is calling my attention is that ATG has many pictures on its cover, but the ones that are visible, are beach pictures. Is this guide also distributed in coastal areas? Looking at the overkill of advertisements, I get the impression that this guide is only distributed in the Huaraz area. TMG: 6/10 ATG: 4/10 2.

Editorial / index

When analysing TMG, there is a little foreword written by the publisher that gives the impression that this production might be his last. The index is to be found on page 8 which is preceded by an article written by a Canadian travel writer. TMG´s index page give a good overview on the features, maps and articles that are in the booklet. It also shows a colophon and mentions what sources are used. ATG shows no foreword and just a simple text on top of page two although this isn’t officially page two as the pages in the beginning aren’t numbered. The index or summary as it´s called by the editor is colourful but far from handy. A poor election of colours and font don’t make it very convenient to use. ATG´s has not mentioned the Depósito legal, as every publication in Peru should count with a declaration of the National Library of Peru. Beginner´s mistake? Another thing, and I´ll try to point this out later in my analysis, if the ATG is directed at foreign tourists, it would have been handy if the published had explained that the guide is divided in provinces. I don’t think that a ´gringo´ has ever heard of the words Huari, Santa and Recuay, it´s a bit confusing. TMG: 9/10 ATG: 3/10 3.

Maps

Apart from useful tourist information, maybe maps are the most important factor

within the tourist guides. TMG uses the same maps every year and you have to admit, when maps are good, why would you change them? They´re in full colour and there is a legend describing the roads, trekking trails, lakes and camp sites. Distances are not mentioned however on the maps, apart from the overview maps such as Ancash and Peru. The city map is very clear and detailed.

What is worrying is that some trails on the maps, including some lakes, don’t exist anymore which gives the impression that the maps have never been updated before. Especially in the Santa Cruz part, which is the most popular hike in the area. On the Huayhuash map there are trails and passes mentioned that are far from easy and the map gives the impression that every regular hiker can do those trails but that is not the case. When you look at the Alpenverein Maps these trails are not marked, and for a reason. They only mark the trails that are really trails. The maps in ATG are rather disappointing, all maps are to be found at the back of the booklet and for the city maps the editor just used prints of Google Maps. The other maps such as the Santa Cruz area, Huayhuash and Huaraz area maps are colourful but far from great. They look cheap and very unclear and are not useful at all. TMG: 8/10 ATG: 2/10 4.

Tourist information

TMG offers a whole list of opportunities to tourists on what to do, where to go and what to see such as ice climbing, fishing, eco-tourism, and horseback riding. The articles in the booklet compared to other years are not that interesting but maybe the biggest mistake in the guide is the information on rafting, kayaking and skiing. It seems that this information hasn’t been updated for years. The Rio Santa is polluted and rafting and kayaking is absolutely not recommendable, unless you want to get sick. This is the reason that the Festival del Andinismo has not included the activity for a couple of years now. Another remarkable error is the information on skiing. It´s strictly forbidden to ski on the Pastoruri Glacier, due to climate change and it isn’t even possible to access it. There is actually a huge contradiction in the guide because on another page it mentions that the glacier Pastoruri can´t be used for skiing anymore and that guided tours to it are now being executed under the denominator climate change route. There are, the longer I keep looking at the tourist information in TMG, many sites that shouldn’t have a mention. For ejample Honkpampa is mentioned as a hiking trail while it´s a conventional tour. The Guitarist´s Cave should be taken out and not be recommended because this place is packed with garbage. It will give tourists are really bad impression. Another mistake of TMG is when it talks about rock climbing in Monterrey. This is site is

not recommended because of problems with the owner apparently, but strangely Chancos, where rock climbing is possible, isn’t mentioned in the booklet. Another thing that is incorrect is that the publisher of TMG states that Churup is a two day trek, it´s a one day hike. ATG uses brief descriptions of the areas around Huaraz and also mentions the hidden sites in the Ancash department. It appears that the publisher is working for the Regional Government which might have made it easy to obtain the information but this doesn’t main it´s useful information. There are neither suggestions nor opinions on why tourists should (or shouldn’t in the case of Rataqueñua e.g.) visit a certain area or attraction. ATG has space in its booklet for rural community tourism, folklore dances, gastronomy and festivities in the area. I guess no one reads this information because the font that is used makes it additionally also very hard to read. The kind of information seems to have come straight from the internet and is very brief. TMG: 5/10 ATG: 2/10 5. Spelling, translations

grammar

and

Spelling and grammar mistakes in TMG are minimal, although the small mistakes that were in it a couple of years ago, are still there. The use of a Canadian proofreader definitely pays off. ATG seems to have used Google Translate for the translations as the text seems a literal translation from Spanish to English. The publisher doesn’t seem to know that since the beginning of the year, the Peruvian currency is Sol and that the dot is no longer used behind the slash (S/). Another thing I see is that the author uses the Spanish abbreviation M.S.N.M., does a foreigner know what this means? Why haven’t they used M.A.S.L.? The English used in ATG is not bad; I have seen worst translations in South America but it´s by far an easy read. It´s pretty clear that the editor didn’t have help from a native speaker and this is a shame because it could (and should) have been much better. TMG: 9/10 ATG: 2/10 6.

Font used

ATG, was there really no other option than that font? The lettering is horrible and makes it very hard to read the information on offer, not to mention the colours used at certain places. TMG uses a font that´s very easy readable and a good mixture between spaces and bolds. TMG: 10/10 ATG: 2/10 7.

Print quality

The print quality of TMG has never been in doubt and the ATG has made a wise decision of printing the booklet in Lima instead of Huaraz. Not bad for a first edition, although Mr. Huallpa doesn’t mention the name of the printing company, nor the

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Opinion

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016 Depósito legal as I mentioned before. The pictures in ATG are of very high quality. TMG: 9/10 ATG: 8/10 8.

Photos used

Comparing the two products, ATG uses a lot of full colour photos but lacks to mention who owns these pictures and mentions three sources including a professional photographer but I get the impression that most pictures are his. Like I mentioned before, there are plenty beach pictures and this is a shame, mainly when the booklet is used in Huaraz. A shame the rest of booklet is not of the same quality of the pictures, as I am looking at the overall product. TMG has its most spectacular picture on the front of the booklet as most of all the other pictures are in black and white although they are of good quality.

that the Lazy Dog Inn is the only place in the whole area. Why is Yungar not mentioned? Again, and I have mentioned this before, I believe TMG should really update its information because there are many things that have changed of the course of the years and tourists could get confused. For example the Santa Cruz trek is not five days but four. The trek doesn’t start at the Llanganuco Lakes but at Vaquería. The distance mentioned is incorrect at well, it´s 50 km and not 62, unless tourists include Laguna 69 to the hike. In general I would say that both booklets have descriptions of most of the sites around Huaraz although it should be more specified and not as brief as it is now. Maybe the biggest mistake of TMG is that it seems that most of the information dates back 15 years but is not up to date.

TMG: 6/10 ATG: 9/10

TMG: 6/10 ATG: 3/10

10. A comparison with the previous editions published by the same author

Usefulness and articles

So how useful are ATG and TMG for tourists? Both offer information using their own style. If a tourist would know nothing of the Ancash area, ATG and TMG are handy, however the lack of ´how to get there information´ by ATG gives TMG a slight benefit. ATG has no articles on experiences, whereas the articles published by TMG are in some form advertorials because they like to mention the businesses that are also having advertisements in the booklet. The font used in ATG is seriously an obstacle to read the guide in the first place. Another thing I don’t understand very well about ATG is the order of the places (which are actually the provinces in Ancash) in the guide. It seems alphabetical but it´s not how I would have done it, it´s not logical. For example, from Llaca, Willcacocha and Churup, the guide goes straight to Chacas. Why? And after Chacas, the next chapter is Casma. I would recommend the publisher for his next edition to divide Ancash in three regions, Callejón the Huaylas, Conchucos area and the coast. What is well explained in ATG are the entrance fees for the National Park Huascarán. Staying overnight in the park will cost tourists 65 soles up to 21 days. The one day ticket is 10 soles per person. In general, and I believe both booklets are lacking here, there are many places in the area where the park doesn’t charge an entrance fee because they have no personnel at all the sites. When tourists visit Lake Paron, they will have to pay 5 soles to the community and can´t use their 65 soles ticket, which is something that should be mentioned. Additionally, TMG talks about ice climbing if it concerns mountaineering but these are two different things. The only place where people can do ice climbing is Llaca but this site isn’t recommendable because of falling ice due to deglaciation. Another thing that I believe is interesting but I am sure the editor of TMG will have a valid reason for it is that there are (too) many mentions about mountain biking, is this the only activity that´s important? On the topic of horseback riding it gives the impression

As mentioned before, TMG has decided to change its size from a pocket booklet into a bigger sized mini magazine. The maps that were used in the previous editions are still there but are smaller overall. TMG should have kept its original size. What´s a pity is that maybe the best map (the one with a description of all the peaks that are visible from Huaraz) in TMG is in black and white. In other publications that I have seen by the same publisher they were in full colour. ATG is definitely not a bad production and better compared to its first publication, although there are still many, many things that needs to be improved and included in any future editions. TMG: 5/10 ATG: 9/10 The final verdict TMG: 73/100 ATG: 44/100 Although both booklets have almost the same size, what´s to be found on the inside marks clearly the difference. Also the Google translations used by ATG make sure that the gap between the two booklets widens and makes TMG a more interesting option to read, not to mention the poor quality of maps and the chosen font by ATG. I would like to recommend TMG to update the information because I have the impression that things were never updated since its first edition came out 15 years ago, which is unacceptable. Furthermore I would like to stress that it is not my idea to crush both booklets although many things can and should be improved because Huaraz would become a better place if more tourist information becomes available for its visitors. Let´s hope both publishers will read my recommendations and that next year they will do a much better job. What do you think? Do you agree with the findings of James McCallum? Send us your thoughts or ideas to editor@ thehuaraztelegraph.com

Places of interest around Huaraz Here we present a guide to the villages around Huaraz in the Callejon de Huaylas and Conchucos. Most of them are easily accessible by microbus (colectivo). Ask your hostel owner or landlord where to catch the colectivos in Huaraz. Callejon de Conchucos The Callejon de Conchucos, which runs almost parallel to the Callejon de Huaylas to the east of the Cordillera Blanca, is less accessible and, therefore, less frequented by visitors, but it is equally beautiful. The Callejon de Conchucos is known mostly for the old Chavín de Huántar Ceremonial Complex. It offers a variety of off-the-beaten-path villages complemented by local festivals, typical music and customs. Take enough cash because most villages in the Callejon de Conchucos have no ATMs. San Marcos (2960m) San Marcos is located nine kilometres north of Chavín de Huántar, in the Mosna valley. Here you can expect basic tourist services as well as spectacular mountainbiking options. The Mosna Valley is also known as Magnolia Paradise because of the many flowers that enrich the area. At the nearby Antamina mine you could find fossilised remains of dinosaurs. Huari (3150m) The province capital is located 152km from Huaraz; about four hours by public transport. It is famous for its gastronomy and the María Jiray Waterfall. Seven kilometres from Huari is Lake Purhuay which also offers camping, trekking and mountain-biking facilities. Also worth visiting is the archaeological centre of Marca Jirca. Chacas (3359m) Less-known hikes to Huari or Yanama are accessible from this little village (Yanama is also the start of the Santa Cruz trek). Chacas offers tourists an excellent opportunity to experience the Andean lifestyle when visiting the main plaza. Flanked by the colourful windows and doors of the white painted houses; many with complex wooden balconies. There is a direct bus route to Huaraz with Transporte Renzo. San Luis (3131m) Capital city of the province of Carlos Fermín Fitzcarrald, it will take no less than six hours to reach this township from Cátac. Famous for the archaeological site of Cashajirca located three kilometres north of San Luis, and the beautiful Sanctuary of Pomallucay, this church offers its home to the image of Lord Justice Pomallucay. Other villages in the Callejon de Conchucos worth considering visiting are Pomabamba, Piscobamba and Llamellín.

Callejon de Huaylas The Callejon de Huaylas stretches for 150km in the Ancash Region of Peru with the Santa River running along the valley floor. The Huaylas Valley is more crowded and most conventional tours run over paved roads. Recuay (3422m) If you have ever wondered how Huaraz looked before the earthquake of 1970, then visit Recuay. The structure of the narrow streets and adobe houses (houses built from sod) give a good impression. Just before arriving in Requay at the Bedoya Bridge, on the right hand side, starts the 183km road towards Olleros and Huaripampa, which is also the beginning of the Llama Trek towards Chavín de Huántar. Carhuaz (2645m) Famous for its local ice-cream and home to a lively Sunday market were countryside inhabitants sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as Manjar Blanco (blancmange). Marcará (2950m) This village mainly serves as a drivethrough between Huaraz and Yungay. It is famous for its baños termales (hot springs) of Chancos. Weekdays are a lot quieter; at the weekends locals from the surrounding villages descend and the pools tend to become overcrowded. Expect the temperature of the pools to be around 70°C. Jangas (2825m) Here lies the parish of Don Bosco, an Italian Roman Catholic priest who in the 1800s established schools and carpentry and woodcarving workshops for orphans and street children. Jangas is a charming village not far from Tarica, and Anta airport. Tarica (3600m) This drive-through town is part of the conventional tour towards the Llanganuco Lakes and is best known for its many roadside shops selling handicrafts and potteries. Yungay (2500m) This is where tourists get the best views of the Huascarán, which is the highest mountain in Peru. Nowadays the old city of Yungay is a national cemetery because of the earthquake of 1970 that hit central Peru – killing 25,000 people in the city alone. The new town was rebuilt 1.5km north of the destroyed city. Yungay has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes, Laguna 69 and Yanama where you could start the Santa Cruz trek. Caraz (2250m) Caraz is 32km from Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca, and is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. Canyon del Pato – a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordillera Blanca – is also in this region.

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Local Heroes

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Humble Emerson Trujillo Flores (34) just likes to run and keeps on winning Two months ago we saw a smiling Peruvian lad standing alongside the hottest prospect of the Formula 1 circus, the 18-year-old Dutchman Max Verstappen. This Peruvian was Emerson Trujillo Flores, and he had just won the Wings for Life World Run in Breda in the Netherlands. A great and interesting achievement for a Peruvian in general, but it became even more interesting when we found out that this young man was actually from Huari, not far from Huaraz. Why had never heard of him before? We met up with Emerson and asked him about his passion and his meeting with Max Verstappen. How did your interest in running start Emerson? Well, a mere eight years ago while still at university, some people organised a couple of running events that were between eight and ten kilometres. I was 25 years old at the time, which is relatively late to start but that’s what happened. I participated in a couple of local runs and seemed to have talent as I won most of them. When I finished university I went to Lima and participated in other runs as well to practise and to just see how it would go. I was training a lot and started to impress, which made the organisers of an event send me to Caracas in Venezuela. Normally they invite the winners of an event on a paid trip to another event for promotional reasons. The run in Venezuela was no ordinary run but a trail run (in the United Kingdom and Ireland it is called mountain or fell running). The runs take place on hiking trails, often in mountainous terrain, where the ascents and descents are much longer, it is not to be compared with road running. Because I won the event in Venezuela´s capital I got sent to Chile for a trail run. I was basically part the first prize; the winner would have the opportunity to compete in another international event. The trail run in Santiago de Chile was a

The Huaraz Telegraph Emerson Trujillo Flores together with Max Verstappen after winning the Wings for Life Worldrun in Breda, the Netherlands

half marathon, which was very tough. However, the next year I got invited again but this time I was due to participate in a 50 km trail. This is called ultra-marathon because it´s more than the regular 42 kilometres. Surprisingly, I won the event ahead of another Peruvian and the third spot was won by a Chilean. This is how people started to get to know me, and I was invited more and more to participate in national events.

In 2014 I participated in a trail running event in Costa Rica, which was hard because of the heat. I didn’t win the event but came second. An American won the trail by more than 10 minutes. I did a couple more national events, some just to do training but I was sent to Chile again

to participate in an 80 kilometre run. I did, however, try an 80-kilometre trail in Lima called the Endurance Challenge of North Face. I was runner-up again. Last year was my breakthrough when I won Red Bull´s event Wings for Life World Run. Wings for Life is an international not-for-profit spinal cord research foundation, and the entry fee goes to research projects aimed at healing the injured spinal cord. I reached 72 kilometres before I was caught by the catcher car that is chasing all runners from behind. As I won the event, they let me chose one of 34 participating cities around the world for the next year. I selected the Netherlands as I have family living there and that would make it a bit easier.

Guess what? I won again; however, I ran fewer kilometres than in Lima. I won with 64 kilometres before the catcher car, driven by Max Verstappen, overtook me. It was a tough battle with my Canadian opponent. How come I ran fewer miles in Holland? I was surprised seeing my end result but came to the conclusion that this is because the roads are all flat. The trick is to find a rhythm and don’t lose it, keep the same pace all the time. Lima is different because it has its parts that are uphill and downhill. The downhill parts are where you can gain extra mileage because they are easier. Holland is so flat (laughing), but I had a great time there with my family. So tell me about your meeting with Max Verstappen, I have always been a huge fan of his father when he was racing F1.

The Huaraz Telegraph Emerson Trujillo in action during the North Face Endurance Challenge

Honestly, I had no idea who he was but he was driving the catcher car for Red Bull. Obviously because Red Bull is the F1 team he is driving for. Sadly, we didn’t communicate very well because we needed an interpreter as I didn’t speak English very well and not a single word of Dutch, and I guess Max didn’t speak Spanish. But Max is a very friendly young

man. He was listening very carefully to what I had to say, and I believe as a sportsman he showed a lot of respect. We were talking about different events that we had won although it was frustrating that we needed someone to translate all the time. I am 34 years old and Max is only 18, but we´re both winners I believe. But comparing the Netherlands with Peru, we´re a hundred years behind. I have been told that there is corruption in Holland as well but it´s little. Money is better spent and that has generated a better life for the habitants. So tell me, what your secret is! You win almost all the runs that you´re participate in, how do you do that? Hmmm, what I think that is the case is that there are not that many people participating in those events. Another thing is that many athletes are scared of running in the mountains. Athletes that are track runners won’t participate in trail running events. I am lucky because I live in the mountains so there are almost no flat parts, which makes it easier to train and gives me a big advantage. Clearly you need to train a lot to win! When I am running I can also enjoy the landscape and nature. The trick is to be ahead of all the others because that´s when you can surprise the wild animals, for example, as they don’t expect you. I get to see snakes and many birds sometimes but the runner-up and all the others behind the trail leader won´t see a single animal because they have hidden themselves. In Costa Rica and Venezuela I have seen all sorts of animals including monkeys and exotic birds. I love nature to be honest. What is it you like about running in the mountains so much and are there many people you can train with? There is no one I know from Huari that likes

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016 running, I believe I am the only one. Maybe they prefer to get drunk, play football or something. No seriously, I have a brother who is a runner too, his name is Humberto Obregón Flores but he normally is a road runner. And he has won many national and international events as well. Maybe he has been my inspiration. I have seen him run and that he had a different lifestyle. I guess I liked it and we started to run and train together. My brother won most, if not all, national running events in 2007 and likewise in 2008. He is still winning events actually, and last year he won a trail running competition in Argentina. We have also competed together at the same events and he normally beats me on the shorter tracks. In 2007 my brother completed a half marathon (21 km) in one hour and three minutes, a spectacular time. For me he is still a winner but his age is taking its toll. Another curious thing that happens when I participate in local running events is that the other competitors don’t like it that I am participating. They believe that it´s not fair because I am training more than they do. So this is the reason I rather not participate in those local events, although we are fellow citizens, they have the support of the authorities because they participate the whole year. I have hardly any communication with then, nor with my former fellow classmates. Most got married, although sometimes we have a chat on Facebook but that´s it. How do you train and do you have a personal trainer? I have a training plan, that´s how I prepare for big events. This is prepared by a professional trainer and gives me an indication of how much I should run, what should I eat and how much rest I have to take to recover. Discipline is the key word here. I never drink alcohol, well sometimes, but not more than a glass of beer after an event to celebrate, but that’s it. It´s very hard to recover after drinking alcohol. If I get drunk, it will cost me one month to recover, and that´s why I have no problems saying no to alcohol. The human body is like an engine, if you treat it well, it reacts well. Most of my family are vegetarians so that makes it easy to eat healthy food. My wife knows a lot about this topic and has shown me that I should not drink sodas, for example, and a lot of fruit and vegetables, which helps to hydrate. And drink lots of water. I eat fish twice a week as well. Can you make a little bit of money thanks to your talent? That´s very hard to be honest. Last year I signed a deal with the brand North Face but they only provide me with cloths, no cash money. Well, that´s something less to worry about at least. Luckily I get a little help from my family. I work a lot in return as well. My parents have a piece of land with honeybees for honey. Last year we started to plant aguaymanto (Golden Berries), which have been a decent source of income. I have little time to visit the authorities and ask for their help and prefer to help my family. When I am off for an event they sometimes show interest but normally it ends up in nothing at all. I get my travel paid most of the time by other companies, luckily. In Lima there

Local Heroes

is an organisation that is helping me out. Very few times there is an award in cash for the winners of an event in trail running, but mostly you get the medal and a trophy. But running is what I like so I can’t complain. It seems that trail running is getting more known every year, do you agree? I do, especially in Spain. Spain has some tough trails and some excellent trail runners. I hope to go to Spain in September to participate in an event. In the Ultra Pirineu in Barcelona the best trail runners of the world are participating. The Italian Marco Gasperi will probably participate as well as many other champions. Around the world there are more events every year and also more athletes, which is a good thing. The sport is really growing a lot. I remember that back in 2008 there were maybe 25 to 30 participants in a trail running event, nowadays there are sometimes over 400 athletes. Every time more and more races are being held and this is a good thing. In the past, there was no trail running in Huaraz, but now there are two events throughout the year. So in Cusco and Lima businesses are contributing to the development as well. Hauraz has a great future because of the scenery and the Huascarán will attract professionals eventually. And if the events are organised more professionally, it will also attract more tourists. Huaraz has really good routes and a great future within trail running. I wouldn’t be surprised if one day they will organise a big ultra-marathon in Huaraz with all the international athletes present. Hopefully many children will become enthusiastic when they see us running because it´s a great sport and it´s relatively easy to do. I hope to set up a high performance school for trail runners one day, maybe in Huaraz or maybe in Cusco. As the interview was recorded before the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca was held, we could not ask Emerson about his participation in the event. Maybe it is not a surprise after reading our interview that the chap from Huari went on to win the running part of the Aerothlon and also the Ultra Trail Cordillera Blanca 2016. Emerson won the 75 km event in 11h:18m:24s, before Ron Gutierrez (11:43:34) and Yengle Serafin León Vilcarino (12:26:28). Belgian Denis van Immerseel ended up fourth (13:20:14) and the owner of the Llanganuco Lodge, Englishman Charly Good came sixth (15:04:30). In other categories, owner of Alpa-K Hotel, Betrand Würsch came 14th in the 21 km event, which was won by Cristian Junior Ramirez Ortiz (01:32:20). The Huaraz Telegraph´s number one fan Alan Moreno Minaya came last and 38th in a little over three and a half hours (03:36:49). Finally, Canadian Diana Morris came eighth in the 21 km female category (03:14:05) and winner Paola Kung Velasquez completed the half marathon in less than two hours (01:58:45). The female 10 km event was won by Yovana Sotacuro Huira (01:39:32) and the male category by Heiner Jhosep Chuquihuaccha Montoro (01:15:53). Congrats to all the participants of the event.

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Brief News

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Continuation of page 3

and descending Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas. Another remarkable record is Cotopaxi (5,897m), the second highest mountain in Ecuador, which was ascended and descended in 1 hour and 37 minutes. The 33-year-old can now also tick the Huascarán North (6,655m) off his bucket list as this outstanding feat was achieved with the help of his Ecuadorian friends. On his Facebook page, Egloff claims that it took him 11 hours flat, and that the last 600 metres to the top were difficult because of strong winds. An outstanding and recordbreaking performance by the man from Ecuador. Furthermore, Karl Egloff is an acknowledged trail runner and mountain biker. Being a mountain biker since 2008, he has won 70 gold medals in national races and has represented Ecuador in over six international cycling events. Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal 2017 awarded to Huaraz engineer Portocarrero To commemorate the first ascent of Mount Everest on 29 May 1953, the annual Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal has been awarded to Peruvian engineer César Augusto Portocarrero Rodríguez. Cesar Portocarrero was born in Cusco and later moved to Huaraz. Studying the dangerous lakes of snowed-capped mountains, Portocarrero’s focus moved to include glaciology in addition to his background as a civil engineer. The award is given every year by a Nepal-based group, Mountain Legacy, to honour not just Hillary’s climb 63 years ago, but also their work with the people of the Himalayas. César Portocarrero has directed projects to mitigate the danger of outburst floods from numerous glacial lakes in the Andes, saving thousands of lives and many millions of dollars, and he is now sharing his expertise with members of the High Mountain Adaptation Partnership (HiMAP), including Nepal, Bhutan and several Central Asian nations. The award will be presented in Kathmandu on December the 11th, International Mountain Day. The Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal is the world’s most prestigious award for mountain advocacy. Mountain Legacy was created in 2003 and authorised by Sir Edmund Hillary to administer the award, which is presented for remarkable service

The Huaraz Telegraph The idea of Climb&Wine is to encourage girls to be confident and join the climbing community in Huaraz. Fancy joining them?

in the conservation of culture and nature in mountainous regions. The award is intended both to honour Sir Edmund’s remarkable record of development assistance and also intended to encourage its emulation. Portocarrero worked with Dr Lonnie G. Thompson to develop a huge project on the Quelccaya ice cap and took a group on field trips where they participated in glaciology research. He was director of the Peruvian glaciology office from 1989 to 1996, and again from 2009 to 2011. From 1973 to 1996 he was involved in big projects on many dangerous lakes – Paron Lake, 513 Lake, Shallap Lake, Tullparaju Lake, Hualcacocha Lake, Paccharuri Lake, Yanaraju Lake and many others in the Cordillera Blanca in northern Peru. He also studied glaciology and water resources development in Alaska and at Lamont Doherty Earth Observatory of Columbia University. (Source: Nepali Times) National Police Forces dismantle illegal mining camps in Huascarán National Park Every citizen in Huaraz and the Callejón the Huaylas, including local and region government authorities, knew for years about the illegal mining operations within the Huascarán National Park. However, because of the hostile and aggressive population of Vicos, no-one dared to enter the Quebrada Honda area. A month ago a special force of over a 100

policemen, accompanied by reporters from the national newspaper El Comercio infiltrated the Vicos community in search of illegal mining camps. Strangely, the police didn’t find any illegal miners during the search; they were probably tipped off by the Vicos community. What they did find, however, at an altitude of over 4,800 m.a.s.l was an illegal mining operation. The small settlement had 15 small tents, 15 cabins, 200 metres of hose, and a sink hole. The illegal mining operation seems to have served around 150 miners who were apparently mining for zinc and lead, primarily.

ARGOT (Asociación Regional de Guías Oficiales de Turismo de Ancash). Ask for proof that your guide is accredited, and their skills up to date. For trekking, the guide should be a member of the associations mentioned above, or be a graduate of career tourism at, for example, the Instituto Tecnológico Público Eleazar Guzman Barrón, or be a member of the national guides’ association, Asociación de Guías Oficiales de Caminata del Perú (AGOCP).

The police burned the camp and used explosives to demolish the sinkhole near Quebrada Honda, in the Paraje Cancagua zone. There is no question that illegal mining has benefited some villagers of the Vicos community. However, there are longterm concerns in terms of health. Natural resources have been severely damaged and the water used in the community might contain poisons or minerals. But apparently the community doesn’t care. Needless to say, mining within any national park around the world is strictly forbidden.

During the high season (June – Sept) Huaraz is visited by many foreign tourists who read our monthly newspaper, which is available at more than 40 hostels, hotels and lodges in the city and Callejón de Huaylas. We would like to get in touch with people that have some spare time while enjoying the city and help us out by sharing their experiences on, for example, trekking, climate change, bouldering, social activities or volunteering. We would like to publish your story and give contributors a printed copy of The Huaraz Telegraph as a memento to take back home as a memory and to show your family and friends.

Quebrada Honda is located in the district of Marcará within the province of Carhuaz and it remains totally incomprehensible that the Ministry of Energy and Mines of Peru waited six years to take action. Same can be said for the Regional Government of Áncash, first under the leadership of the now incarcerated César Álvarez and now under Waldo Rios. One would almost think that there might be a connection. Why didn´t they take action when they first knew about it? Rectification in our June edition

The Huaraz Telegraph César Portocarrero holding a speech for the National Institute for Research in Glacier and Mountain Ecosystems (INAIGEM) in Huaraz

In our previous edition, we shared an investigation among local agencies and recommended that tourists to do their homework before buying a trek or tour. In the article we informed our readers that mountain guides should be members of an internationally registered professional association or the Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Peru (AGMP). This is only partly correct. In Ancash, guides may also be members of regional associations such as AGOEMA (Asociación de Guías Oficiales Especializados en Montaña Huaraz Ancash), AGOMP (Asociación de Guías Oficiales de Montaña del Perú) or

Join our Huaraz Telegraph team and start writing your story

The Huaraz Telegraph is also looking for people that have been in Huaraz in the past and have completed research or studies (archaeological, biological, historical etc.) and are willing to share their experiences with our readers. Please contact the editor by email or fill in the contact form on our website for more information. Contributors are not required to be native English speakers. Peruvians can also send their stories in Spanish, which will be translated and published in English. Brazilian tourist gets drugged on bus to Huaraz and has belongings stolen Ronie Framil Vieira from Brazil suffered a terrible experience when planning a second trip to Huaraz. The Brazilian boarded Z-Buss (name of the bus company) from Lima to Huaraz. During the trip along the coast, another passenger was picked up from the street (which is forbidden; however, bus drivers sometimes do this to make extra money) and took the seat next to Ronie. Ronie was offered a biscuit, which he initially politely rejected and the

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Brief News

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016 conversation they had was friendly, so recalls the Brazilian. When the bus arrived at the district of Chasquitambo the Brazilian was woken up by the staff of Z-Buss for lunch. It was then that he noticed that his belongings were missing and that he must have been drugged. Apart from his valuable camera, a laptop and U$ 2,500 in cash were stolen from his belongings. The strange thing is that the robber has been identified from camera footage; however, neither the police nor the judicial powers have taken action. The thief has been identified as Huarcaya Miravala Alexander Martín from Huaral. Mr. Framil is receiving help from friends he met on his first trip to Huaraz as he has no money. The personnel of Z-Buss have promised to pay for Ronnie´s expenses such as food and lodgings during his stay in Huaraz. The Brazilian declared, in front of the cameras of a local TV station, that the police in Peru are very friendly; however, he is frustrated that they haven’t taken action and that the robber is still on the streets despite being identified. Sadly, this is not the first time Z-Buss has been involved in an incident like this. Two years ago, Tereza and Petr from the Czech Republic claimed to have been drugged and had their laptop stolen. Another interesting thing is that a couple of months ago, a friend of the editor of The Huaraz Telegraph suggested to go to Z-Buss in order to see if they wanted to buy an ad in our newspaper. A suggestion that was kindly rejected because of a possible conflict of interest, which was remarkably described (although using another example) in the foreword of the June edition of 2016. A suggestion to tourists: when buses stop to pick up people along the streets, be very, very cautious and try to protest against the coming aboard of passengers that were not at the terminal at departure. Creperie Patrick celebrates 30 years of service and is still going strong In 1986, Patrick Bertrand from Orleans in France opened the doors of the first creperie in Peru; Creperie Patrick located on the main street Luzuriaga in Huaraz. Although a machinery technician by trade, when he was young he liked to cook. Opening the restaurant was an easy decision because after falling in love with a girl called Adele, he also fell in love with the landscapes, the food and the Peruvian culture. Patrick did, however, notice that back in 1983 there were only a couple of pizzerias in the city, which made him decide to open his own restaurant. The establishment recently celebrated 30 years of service and it´s still going strong. His gastronomic adventure started with the elaboration of crepes but soon he also started to prepare national and international dishes. Nowadays Creperie Patrick is visited by thousands of national and international tourists who not only can enjoy different salads and soups but also less traditional options, such as alpaca aguaymanto, bistec de alpaca, choucroute, raclette and duck served with

orange sauce. Additionally, the Frenchman is also the producer of products such as licor de coca. The coca liqueur is used as prime ingredient to make coca sour. Patrick also makes his own cognac, mustard, cereals and jam. On Friday the 17th of June, 1998, the national newspaper El Comercio featured an article to the Frenchman. The father of three said in an interview with our newspaper in 2013 that he felt 95% Peruvian and not so much French anymore. People can check out for themselves when visiting the creperie on the main street in Huaraz. Don’t forget to mention The Huaraz Telegraph to Patrick and you will receive a free coca sour to accompany your dinner. Creperie Patrick opens daily at 5pm and closes at 11pm. Climb&Wine – a female orientated climbing club in Huaraz A new female orientated climbing club has been formed in Huaraz for the 2016 season. Climb&Wine, as the name suggests, aims to bring together local females and travellers with a passion for climbing in a social and fun atmosphere. Each week local females and travellers are invited to meet together and choose a climbing location for the following week. Mountaineering expeditions and social nights will also be discussed and organised. Climb&Wine was founded by Emily, an Australian climber who first visited Huaraz in 2014. During her first trip, Emily was able to explore the region and the incredible climbing environment on offer through the help of local guides and friends. Throughout the 2014 season, Emily was reliant on her local friends of who were all males to take her on various climbs and expeditions because of her lack of personal gear. Returning to Huaraz in May for the 2016 season Emily soon faced similar challenges and with her male friends all working on the various mountains she was in need of new climbing partners. An evening with a fellow female climber and a few glasses of wine, the idea of Climb&Wine was born to encourage girls to be confident and join the climbing community. A shopping trip followed to purchase all the necessary gear and word began to spread. With the help of friends in Australia and abroad Climb&Wine was given a logo, and a Facebook page developed. Around the world, female climbers are often viewed as not as safe, inexperienced and lacking the physical strength needed for climbing and Huaraz is no exception. Climb&Wine hopes to challenge those beliefs to show the power, strength and ability of every female climber and to empower women to give it their all in the climbing world. Dates, times and relevant information will be posted on the Facebook page along with photos and information on girls achieving amazing feats in the climbing world. Local men and visitors to Huaraz are welcome to join them on climbing days.

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Festival del Andinismo

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Organizer of Festival del Andinismo left disappointed after successful event This year´s Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca 2016 had numerous participants and was spread out over different locations in the Callejón de Huaylas. Like last year, the festival was boycotted by members of the Provincial Municipality of Huaraz who instead launched their own festival. Last year, however, the festival was called Hirkafest, but this year the commission of tourism unluckily chose the name Tour Fest del Andinismo. The Huaraz Telegraph spoke with Benjamin Morales Irato who was happy to share his point of view on the results and the future of the festival. Morales hinted that another city in Peru might have the honour of holding the festival because the aftermath of the festival has left a bad taste in his mouth. Being the organizer and main promoter of the Festival del Andinismo Cordillera Blanca 2016, are you happy with the outcome and results? Well, honestly I don’t know where to start. In the first place let me explain that it is not only about organising different sporting disciplines. The disciplines such as aerothlon (paragliding, train running and mountain biking), or skiing are a way of getting bigger goals realised. Why do we organise different types of events and what is the meaning of all of these sport disciplines in the long term? Let me try to explain. The aerothlon is now part of the world circuit as this event is now also held in three other countries. One of the objectives of the festival is to promote new routes or new circuits. At Condorhuaín in the Independencia district we have opened seven new rock climbing routes. We have been able to locate an interesting rock formation that has never been climbed before and hopefully in the near future this place will be visited by climbers. As you know, in previous years we have held the skiing event at the glacier of Pastoruri but because of climate change, the National Park doesn’t allow us to practise sports on the glacier anymore, so we had to look for a different location. According to the Ministry of Foreign Trade and Tourism, the Cordillera Blanca is a small niche for climbers. The Cordillera Blanca is, however, a lot more. When

The Huaraz Telegraph Benjamin Morales Irato standing alongside the mayor of Independencia, Engineer Eloy Alzamora Morales during La Noche de Mestizo

tourists hear about the Cordillera Blanca they should not automatically relate it with mountaineering. The idea is to show people that many places within the White Mountain Range are easily accessible as long as tourists are accompanied by official mountain guides. If tourists would hire an official mountain guide and work with reputable agencies, the non-technical mountains can also be ascended by regular people. Vallunaraju is an example of this. When we announced that the skiing event would take place at Vallunaraju, people immediately started to say that this was too difficult. The skiing took place at the same altitude as at Pastoruri – 5,000 metres above sea level. The difference, however, is the access route. There is a direct road up to the glacier, whereas Vallunaraju needs to be climbed from 4,000 metres. This is not impossible; however, it needs to be communicated to the visitors of our region. Finally we had three skiers and one who came from Lima because, like I said before, people thought this would be too tough. This is, however, not a bad start at all and we hope to have more skiers next year. Once again, it´s not much about the ski competition itself but more about letting the world know that

skiing can be done in our area. In that sense I would call it a first successful step. We also organised the Ultra Trail Cordillera Blanca. The Ultra Trail Cordillera Blanca is also an example of a new type of circuit that can be used either for trekking or trail running. The 75k trail run used almost all of the available treks in that part of the Cordillera Blanca. The cross country event saw a significant change as well this year. The national federation of cross country has decided that the national championships will only be held in the country´s capital Lima. In order to be able to participate in the national championships, cyclists are obligated to participate in the regional events. This will make sure that in all the regions around the country there will be cross country events. We have been part of the regional championships and the participants have gained points that will be accumulated at the end of the year and with enough participation, they can join the national championships. In the downhill championship we organised an urban downhill through the district of Indepenencia. Thanks to the help of, for example, Clinica San Pablo, the national police and especially the neighbours of Independencia, this became a very successful event as well. Another important thing to mention is the inclusion of cultural events during this year´s festival. As this year´s festival was spread over two weekends, we had the opportunity to organise cultural events through the week. The return of the Inka Fest Mountain Film Festival was an example of this. Many projections and short films were films that had been shown before, but what´s interesting is that most of them were filmed in our region. I believe many people have been able to enjoy the short films.

The Huaraz Telegraph Benjamin Morales Irato with Karl Egloff (r) at the Festival del Andinismo 2016

Augusto Ortega (Peru´s first mountaineer to reach the top of the Everest in 1992) and Karl Egloff held interesting speeches on mountaineering. Karl Egloff is a speed

mountaineer that tries to get to the top of the highest mountains around the world and we are happy that we have been able to convince him to visit Huaraz and to participate in the Festival del Andinismo. What´s great is that Karl Egloff has set a new record on Huascarán in a spectacular time. This will mean a worldwide promotion not only for him but also the area in which he set the record. A very positive achievement all round. Additionally, we had interesting speeches held by the INAIGEN (National Institute for Research in Glacier and Mountain Ecosystems) and the National Park Huascarán. Why is the national press so important and what about the local press, where they helpful? Different media have covered parts of the event. Ojo, Diario Correo, La República, El Peruano, El Comercio, Andina, Cable Mágico Deportes, Canal 7 and Revista Rumbos will all contribute in promoting our area. Internationally, this year we were able to bring Fox Sports 3 to the festival. They are editing all the shots and on the 16th and 17th of this month, they will broadcast a one-hour programme about the festival. This cost us S/ 9,000 soles for just the producer. We have provided the camera to do the filming. I have to admit that we haven’t paid the whole bill yet, we still have to pay another 5,000, but hopefully this will have gained more credibility towards other businesses because the programme will be broadcasted in the whole of South America. The local press, however, I’d say 50/50. Maybe half of the local press is always showing interest in the event, the other half are useless. I don’t believe that negative is the correct word, I would qualify them as malicious. Without using any valid arguments, they always try to discredit my person or the festival in general. An educated person first listens, then investigates and finally transmits the message. Although I believe that the press

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016 should not form and opinion, according to my criteria, the press should only transmit a message that is informative. Maybe you don’t agree but anyway. Especially the two older guys that have a local programme on channel 13 are malicious, and this is unfortunately having a negative effect. They damage our credibility. Understand that the Festival de Andinismo is a private event. We start with zero money every year and every time the local press talks bad about my person or the event, this makes it more difficult to raise our budget. If you allow me, I would like to mention another very negative factor that has influenced our festival; Erland Enrique Huerta Herrera the sub director of tourism of the Provincial Municipality of Huaraz. On the 19th, before the festival, I believe it was April, but anyway, he declared to the local press that I had asked for cash money. At no time have I asked for cash money from the Municipality of Huaraz. I have already sent a notarized letter and today he will get another one to possibly proceed to a denouncement for defamation. All the support that we have tried to obtain was channelled directly to the providers of the festival, and not into my pockets. No professional person would do what he has done, not only Mr. Huerta, but also the mayor and his advisors. If last year they organised a festival called Hirka Fest, you would expect that this year´s festival would have been the second edition of the Hirka Fest. But they have changed the name this year and this might mean that next year they will change it again, won’t they? This year they called it Tour Fest del Andinimso and this is very childish, unprofessional and ridiculous. Funny! Well, anyway we look at results. It would be interesting if someone asks Mr. Huerta the results he has obtained during his professional career. As far as I am concerned, this person hasn’t had any results until today´s day. I wouldn’t like to speak badly about his person; however, I believe that he is a professional that is not capable of working in the tourism sector, especially in the public sector. I haven’t seen anything of their events. I don’t know. Have you made mistakes this year organising the event? I would prefer to refer to the things that I would do next year and that I hadn’t considered for this year´s event. I would focus on making leaflets to be distributed in the universities and technological schools in Huaraz. Youngsters between 18 and 23 years are the perfect age to enjoy our event. I haven’t done this before but because the event has established a good reputation on a national level, I can now promote the event more locally. I wouldn’t say that I have made many mistakes. Very important have been the police and medical assistance we have received this year. I would appreciate constructive criticism to make the event even better next year. Until this moment I have received applause but I also have heard complaints, obviously behind my back. Pueblo chico, infierno grande (Japanese proverb meaning in English small town, big hell). You mentioned the roll of the Provincial Municipality of Huaraz before, how

Festival del Andinismo

important was the participation and help of the District Municipality of Independencia during the festival? Very important! I cannot emphasise this enough. They have been our institutional support from the beginning. Not only do they give us credibility, they also have taken advantage of showing visitors and participants of the event the possibilities that Independencia has to offer. The Provincial Municipality of Huaraz missed out on a great opportunity. We started the preparations of the festival last year in November and the Huaraz Municipality got just interested before the start of the event. When we had all the events planned and everything confirmed, we finally asked if they could help us with the financing of Fox Sport 3. This would have been great for Huaraz in general and I am sure that it would have cost them a lot less compared to organising their own Tour Fest. It´s a pity, but what can you do? It would have been a great opportunity for the mayor of Huaraz but they missed out. I don’t know what the exact reasons for the municipality to decide not to participate, but if I have to guess it might have something to do with something they call politiquería (use and abuse of political power to accumulate economic power) in Spanish. The public money they have spent, they should have spent during the festivities of Huaraz in July.

WWW.CHURUP.COM / INFO@CHURUP.COM TEL: 043-424200 JIRON AMADEO FIGUEROA 1257 LA SOLEDAD - HUARAZ

What can we expect in 2017? Well, honestly and like every year after the event, I would say I have no clue. I have been left with a bitter taste in my mouth. It is very hard work and the last two months before the event starts, there is literally no free time left. You should have seen my agenda. Maybe the worst part is that I neglect my business and my family. If I would have all the support and people would say that I have done a great job, this would make it a lot easier. However, if people talk badly, spread lies about you, and attack from different parts, it makes you wonder why you would organise the festival in the first place. If I would get rich from organising the event that would make it more bearable but the little money that was left of is going to Fox Sport 3. What hurts is that I get criticised and all the dirt, whereas the whole town can benefit in terms of more tourism, more promotion and the possibility of enjoying great events. Why am I still organising the festival? It´s not fair. So, in conclusion, I believe it´s not worth working in a place (referring to Huaraz) where people don’t want you to work. My options are limited, either I don’t organise the festival, or I might organise the festival in Chavín, for example. Or maybe I should go to Arequipa with the whole team. This would be really sad because I am from Huaraz but I haven’t made up my mind yet, we´ll see in October later this year. It hurts when people call you a thief and that I would benefit myself on behalf of the city. I’m annoyed, really annoyed to be honest. To end with a positive note, it´s still worth it I believe. I am not religious but with the festival I like to give back 10% to society. I like the concept. We´ll see what happens in the next weeks or months.

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Tourist Information

The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

All you should know about day trips, trekking, mountaineering and rock climbing The Cordillera Blanca offers countless opportunities for trekkers and climbers, as well as for people not so keen on physical activities. The wonderful lakes and glaciers of the White Range are easily accessible from the town of Huaraz. Here is a quick guide to the best activities around Huaraz. DAY TRIPS Daily sightseeing tours These tours are great for those of you who are not so active, or who need to acclimatise before heading out into the mountains. LLANGANUCO – This tour visits the villages in the Huaylas Valley (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz), and the beautiful Llanganuco Lake. Be aware that you will only spend from 40 minutes to one hour at the lake and spend much time at places of little interest. Departs every day. Alternatively you can visit the lakes independently, taking a taxi from Yungay, that way you can take full advantage of the lakes. CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – This tour takes you to Chavin, a village situated on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca in the Conchucos Valley. Here you can visit the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring some of the oldest and most significant pre-Inca ruins in Peru. You also make a stop at the lovely Lake Querococha along the way. Departs every day except Mondays when the ruins are closed for maintenance. PASTORURI – This tour visits the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, with the amazing Pastoruri glacier, which is still well worth a visit despite having lost 40% of its ice in recent years. You can’t help but be impressed by the huge ice cliffs and the Puya Raimondii – a rare 12m high bromeliad plant which you visit on the way to the glacier. Make sure you become acclimatised before going on this tour as the glacier is at 5000m. Departs every day. Day hikes These hikes are perfect for those needing to acclimatise before a trek, or for those with limited time. LAKE CHURUP, 4485m – This is one of the closest and most easily accessible hike from Huaraz, leading to a very beautiful turquoise/emerald green coloured glacial lake. It can be quite challenging as there are some steep sections and there is a rock wall before the lake, which you need to scramble up to, there are wires to help you up. It can be tricky in the rainy season when the rock is wet and incredibly slippery, so be careful. It is recommended not to hike alone, but for experienced hikers a guide is not necessary as the path is easy to find. For those of you with limited hiking experience, it is advisable to go with a guide, as he will help you go up and down the rock wall safely. The trailhead at Llupa or Pitec can be easily reached by public transport.

LAKE 69, 4600m – This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the northern section of the national park, from Huaraz it’s roughly a 3 -hour drive to the trailhead (Cebollapampa), but the journey is incredibly scenic with great views of Mount Huascaran and the Llanganuco Lakes. The hike is of moderate difficulty, but can be challenging for those with limited acclimatisation. You can reach the trailhead by public transport easily, but finding transport to get back can prove very difficult, so it is recommended to hire private transport from Huaraz. For those with hiking experience, a guide is not necessary as the path is clear, but make sure you are already a little acclimatised to the high altitude before setting off (if coming from sea level this is not recommended for a first hike), otherwise you may have some serious problems with altitude sickness, which is why some agencies prefer to send a guide with their groups so that they can keep an eye on any potential problems. The lake is totally stunning, not only its pristine blue colour, but also its fantastic location at the foot of the mighty Mount Chacraraju. You are rewarded with awesome views of the Cordillera Blanca’s highest summits during the hike. LAKE LLACA, 4470m – This is one of the closest lakes to Huaraz. It takes two hours by private transport to reach the trailhead at the Llaca refuge. From there it is a short hike to reach the lake. The lake is not as stunning as others in the region, but it is a good option for those wishing to acclimatise with limited effort and time. It is possible to do ice climbing here, but the ice walls tend to be full of sand. TREKKING Easy to moderate treks SANTA CRUZ TREK (four days) – Undoubtedly the Cordillera Blanca’s most famous and popular trek. It is suitable for novice hikers, but good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. This trek deserves its fame; offering varied scenery and endless views of majestic snowcapped peaks, jewelled glacial lakes and gorgeous Andean valleys. For those with ample experience of trekking at high altitude, this trek is doable without a guide, but be sure to follow the national park rules especially to carry all your rubbish out of the park. Ask in town for directions before heading out, as although easy to follow, the path is not signposted. Departures for this trek in an all-inclusive organised group run daily in high season, but standards vary from one company to the next. The trek can be completed in three or four days, but if you do it in three days you will miss the side trip to the Alpamayo base camp and Lake Arhuaycocha, which is undoubtedly one of the trek’s highlights. OLLEROS – CHAVIN TREK also known as LLAMA TREK (three days) – A less popular trek, it mainly crosses vast expanses of puna, following ancient preInca and Inca paths that lead to the village of Chavin. There are no glacial lakes and few snow-capped mountain views during this trek, but you will come across isolated

WARNING FOR TOURISTS: AVOID THE RATAQUENUA CROSS AND DON´T HIKE FROM THE RUINS OF WILCAHUAIN TOWARDS THE BAÑOS TERMALES IN MONTERREY communities. Moderate to challenging treks QUILCAYHUANCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – A stunning trek which goes through some less-visited, but none the less stunning valleys of the Cordillera Blanca. It is a much tougher trek than the Santa Cruz for two reasons. First there are no donkeys to carry all the equipment, so you will have to carry a backpack weighing around 15kg (the weight depends on the number of porters accompanying the group). Second, because the pass is much higher. At 5050m the path leading up to it is very steep, rocky and generally not well trodden. The way down from the pass is even steeper and more challenging. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers who wish to experience peace and tranquillity. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. Note that some agencies haven taken the habit of doing the trek in reverse, starting in Cojup, in order to avoid the national park control point in Pitec and send uncertified guides. Doing the trek this way is not recommendable as the ascent to the pass from the Cojup side is too challenging for most people. AKILPO – ISHINCA TREK (three days) – This trek is similar in difficulty to the Quilcayhuanca trek, although donkeys can be used (they do not go over the pass but go back and around). The pass is very high at 5050m and the path leading up to it is steep and not well marked, the descent from the pass is very difficult and potentially dangerous if you go the wrong way. The trek starts at the pre-Inca ruins of Honcopampa, and then goes up the Akilpo Valley through beautiful forests of local quenual trees, before reaching the superb Lake Akilpo just before the pass. Then you go down to the Ishinca Valley. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers looking for an alternative to the Santa Cruz trek. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. ISHINCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – This trek is vastly different to all the others, because it includes a glacier traverse requiring the use of equipment such as crampons and ropes. Bringing you much closer to the giant icy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, the views are simply spectacular. This trek is only suitable for very fit and experienced hikers, but does not require any mountaineering technical knowledge. Thorough acclimatisation is essential as you will go well over 5000m. It is possible to include a summit climb to Mount Ishinca (5530m) during this trek. Challenging treks HUAYHUASH TREK (eight to twelve days) – The Huayhuash full circuit trek is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful. It is a trek that requires good physical condition and acclimatisation, because it crosses many high passes

(eight passes minimum ranging from 4650m to 5050m) and the campsites are all above 4100m. Trekkers are rewarded with endless breath-taking views of stunning glacial lakes, pristine valleys and icy peaks, which can be extremely close. There are many alternatives possible for the itinerary, but the most common group departures are for the eight day and ten day treks. Those with more time and wishing to explore less visited valleys of the range can do the trek in as many as 15 days, and take the more challenging high trail. Those with limited time can do the four day Mini Huayhuash trek, which visits one of the range’s most beautiful locations: the Lake Jahuacocha area. CEDROS – ALPAMAYO TREK (seven to ten days) – This trek is less popular than the Huayhuash trek, and also very different, although not less beautiful. It is probably a bit more challenging too, even though the passes are not as high (eight passes on the full circuit ranging from 4400m to 4850m), but the trails leading up to the passes are much steeper. You are unlikely to meet many trekkers and will come across several isolated Quechua communities who still follow a traditional lifestyle. The highlight of this trek is undoubtedly the view from Jancarurish of Mount Alpamayo, known as the World’s most Beautiful Mountain thanks to its near perfect pyramid of ice. You will not see as many glacial lakes and close-up views of glaciers on this trek as on the Huayhuash trek, but the landscape is much more varied and the isolation a real bonus. The trek can be done in seven days starting in Hualcayan or Huancarhuas and finishing in Pomabamba, allowing one worthwhile rest day in Jancarurish, but take into account that you need a full day to travel back to Huaraz from Pomabamba (night buses are not recommended due to frequent robberies on this route). For those with more time, you can add extra days by joining on to the Santa Cruz trek at the end, making it a ten or 11 day itinerary if finishing in Cashapampa, or a nine day itinerary if finishing in Vaqueria. The trek can be done in reverse, but it is tougher. MOUNTAINEERING Keep in mind that glacier conditions change from year to year, so what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses the following year. So make sure to check the latest conditions in town before setting out on any of these expeditions. Non-technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with no previous mountaineering experience; however, even though they are often referred to as trekking peaks these expeditions, although not technical, are harder than a trek, due to the fact that you wake up at midnight, walk in the

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The Huaraz Telegraph JULY 2016

Tourist Information

TIP OF THE MONTH JULY: WINCHUS

well as an excellent physical condition. Two ascent routes are possible, either from Lake Paron or from the Santa Cruz Valley. ROCK CLIMBING & BOULDERING

The Huaraz Telegraph Winchus is a remote site in the Cordillera Negra at 4157m, located halfway between the districts of Pueblo Libre and Pamparomas and some 45km from the town of Caraz, home of one of the region’s largest forest of Puya Raimondi, counting some 500 plants. The Puya Raimondi is an extraordinary bromeliad plant, member of the pineapple family that can reach up to 12m in height and only blooms once in its 80-100 years lifespan, with up to 20,000 flowers. The name Winchus comes from the Quechua word for hummingbird, which is easily explained as many species of hummingbirds can be seen feeding on the nectar of the puyas while in bloom, an absolutely unforgettable spectacle. The puyas tend to bloom in groups and for some three months during which the hummingbirds pollinate them. What makes Winchus such a special place is not only the opportunity to discover one of the most impressive plant on earth, but also the astounding 120km panorama of the Cordillera Blanca, with breath-taking views of Mount Huandoy (6395m), Caraz (6025m), Santa Cruz (6259m), Huascaran (6768m), Piramide (5885m), to name just a few, as well as the green Huaylas Valley below. The best way to visit Winchus is by taxi from Caraz, making a full circuit, first along a dirt road passing through the village of Huata, then over a 4300m pass from where you can catch a glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, and then coming back to the Huaylas Valley via the asphalt road leading to Pueblo Libre. The scenery is amazing the whole way, giving you also the chance to witness rural life in the Cordillera Negra and see the steepest agricultural terraces in the region. The whole circuit takes around 4 to 5 hours.

dark and use heavy equipment such as mountain boots and crampons. If you are fit and have experience of trekking at high altitude and want to experience being on a glacier, then one of these peaks is for you. MOUNT PISCO, 5752m (three days) – This expedition offers some of the best summit views of any peak of the Cordillera Blanca, and for that reason is very popular. Crossing the moraine takes two to three hours and is considered the most challenging part of the expedition. It is possible to include a hike to Lake 69 on the last day. MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, 5686m (two days) – This expedition can be quite challenging, because no donkeys can be used, you have to carry roughly a 15kg backpack up a steep path to moraine camp on day 1. It is very popular due to its proximity to Huaraz making it a short expedition. At the moment the main summit is not being climbed because it is completely full of crevasses, which make the ascent much longer than before and also much more intimidating, therefore not suitable for beginners. For that reason most expeditions now climb the South summit, which at 5675m is only 11 metres lower than the North summit. MOUNT ISHINCA, 5530m (three days) – This peak is mostly used as an acclimatisation peak for those wanting to climb the higher and more technical Mount Tocllaraju, which is situated in the same valley. Intermediate level climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with some mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness. MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, 6034m (four days) – This expedition is perfect for those

who have climbed a non-technical summit previously and want to take the next step in the mountaineering world by trying something more technical. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. The relatively short summit ascent makes it a perfect first 6000m+ peak.

Rock climbing and bouldering spots are plentiful around Huaraz. All types of climbing, all levels, many different types of rock, fantastic views, no chance to get bored! Check with local climbers or travel agencies specialising in rock climbing for a detailed list of the necessary equipment and help with logistics, or buy the brand new Huaraz - The Climbing Guide, which features all the region’s best climbing sites - some 23 sites and over 1,000 routes in total. CHANCOS – Located 32km northeast of Huaraz in the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca, Chancos is the perfect place for beginners and climbers with limited experience. After climbing, a good option is to visit the Chancos Hot Springs, which are situated an easy ten-minute walk away. LOS OLIVOS – This is the closest climbing spot to Huaraz, situated only three kilometres from the town centre. It features a large number of equipped sportclimbing routes in five different sectors, as well as several boulders, suitable for climbers with some experience. From here you get an amazing panoramic view of the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. ANTACOCHA – Situated 35km south of

23 Huaraz in the Cordillera Negra it is one of the few places in the area offering long routes with a variety of difficulty levels, suitable for climbers with limited or a lot of experience alike. The 180m high wall towers high above Lake Antacocha. This place offers a magnificent vantage point of the Cordillera Blanca, especially at sunset. HATUN MACHAY – Located 69km south of Huaraz at 4300m high in the Cordillera Negra, this stunning rock forest is a paradise for rock climbing and bouldering with some 250 equipped sport-climbing routes and countless boulders, suitable for all levels. It is also a great place for hiking, as it offers some amazing viewpoints with views of the Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash and the Pacific Ocean, as well as many caves with ancient rock paintings and carvings dating back to 10,000BC. THE SPHINX – Also known as The Colossus of the Andes or ‘La Esfinge’ in Spanish, it is situated 90km northeast of Huaraz in the Paron Valley and is considered to be one of the most amazing granite rock walls in South America, offering a variety of traditional climbing routes with superb views of the snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca surrounding it. Given its extreme altitude (5325m), it is essential to be well acclimatised before setting off on this climb and to have sufficient experience in traditional climbing. It takes an average of three to four days to complete the climb. Information and picture for the ´tip of the month´ provided by Marie Timmermans from Belgium

MOUNT CHOPICALQUI, 6354m (four days) – This expedition has the same technical difficulty level as Mount Tocllaraju, but it is a more difficult climb due to the much longer summit route and higher altitude. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. It offers one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most beautiful ascent routes along its southwest ridge. Technical climbs These expeditions are suitable for people with plenty of technical mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness. MOUNT ALPAMAYO, 5947m (seven days) – This is a serious and technically challenging expedition requiring the ascent of a 470m high ice wall. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. Please note that the ascent from base camp to high camp is particularly challenging, given that you need to climb up a 60m high ice wall (at a 55 degree incline), carrying your backpack. Known as the World’s Most Beautiful Mountain, each year Alpamayo attracts many mountaineers from the world over. MOUNT ARTESONRAJU, 6025m (five days) – This is a mentally, physically and technically demanding climb requiring the ascent of a 600m high ice wall, at an incline of 50 degrees. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential, as

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