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OLGA ZAKHMATOVA SS21 Collection by Brand ZO
THE REVIVAL ISSUE
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ditor’s letter
The last year was hard for all industries around the world, including fashion. The cancellation of fashion weeks, closed boutiques, and sanitizers instead of perfume – the COVID-19 pandemic has become a major problem to the fashion industry and even questioned the survival of many of its segments.
Everything began during Milan Fashion Week, one of the main events in the fashion world. Paris Men’s Fashion Week and Haute Couture Week have also been canceled. However, everything has its positive sides, including self-isolation. The designers showed all their creativity in order to make their fans happy and satisfied even in difficult times. Online fashion shows, Zoom and WhatsApp photoshoots, virtual clothing and even dressing rooms... Pandemic opened a new reality for the fashion industry which seems to be actively developing even after the relaxation of restrictions. This MOVER issue is dedicated to the revival and the new life of the fashion world after the pandemic. May our hopes for the best become true and we’ll have an opportunity to enjoy this summer at the fullest. Yes, we mean great shopping as well!
LANVIN NEW TALENTS: THE MOST PROMISING DESIGNERS FASHION REVIVAL ZO WHAT KIND OF MOVIES DID DESIGNERS WATCH WHEN CREATING NEW COLLECTIONS? COSMIC WOMEN’S DRESS AS AN ART OBJECT: 4 GREATEST COLLABS IN FASHION HISTORY HOW FASHION DESIGNERS HELP TO FIGHT CORONAVIRUS SALTWATER AFFORDABLE LUXURY: WHAT’S THAT AND HOW IT WORKS IN 2021 ALINA KEDIS OVERMATCH TEAR OR WEAR? JEAN-RENÉ WIEDEMANN EXPRESSIVE COLLECTION LADY IN RED MOVER RADIO 2 mover-magazine.com
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Editor-in-chief Alexa Seny Editor Karina Lavrova Correspondent Arina Yaganova Production Mode production Designer Eugene Oliinyk Cover story ZO by Olga Zakhmatova
All rights reserved. The opinion of the authors of publications may not coincide with the point of view of the editorial board. Any reproduction of materials or their fragments in any language is possible only with the written permission of the publisher. When quoting, a reference to the journal is required. All rights to articles, illustrations, other materials, as well as artistic design belong to the editorial staff of the magazine. The advertiser is responsible for the accuracy of the information provided in the advertisement as well as for the compliance of the advertisement content with the legal requirements.
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Hollywood-style luxury, aristocratic and restrained. French chic and the meaningfulness of China. Casual or chic – why choosing? Stay exquisite every day by choosing 10 mover-magazine.com
LANVIN.
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Models: Alessandra Belda @alessandrabelda Emanuele Carloni @pleasebe_quiet Stylist: Aliona Kadirova @aliona_live MUAН: Anna Pavlova @anna_pas_mua Photographer: Oksana Baranchykova @oksy_photo
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New talents: the most promising designers One of the numerous reasons why the world of fashion is so amazing is the fact that it continuously presents fresh ideas, creations, and designers. Any day in fashion could become revolutionary because of someone’s groundbreaking idea. Over the recent years, more and more young and talented people entered the industry and brought something unique into it. Young designers tend to be more creative and bold with their ideas, and they don’t fear challenges, unlike the well-established, worldwide famous brands. We would like to introduce you to some outstanding new-generation designers and their stories
GLENN MARTENS and Y/PROJECT Glenn Martens, a designer from Belgium, studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. In April 2013, after working at Jean Paul Gaultier as a junior designer, Martens became the creative director of Y/Project. His brand debuted at Paris Fashion Week and ran for three seasons, bringing more and more recognition to Marten’s talent and vision. In 2017, Y/Project won the esteemed ANDAM Grand Prize, while Glenn Martens was selected as one of the BOF (Business of Fashion) 500 people shaping fashion globally. In 2018, Glenn Martens was awarded the title of Designer of the Year at the Belgian Fashion Awards, a fashion prize that was previously awarded to Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons. When the brand received the Special Edition ANDAM prize in 2020, there was no doubt that Glenn’s name has made it into the list of not only Belgium’s but the world’s most influential people in fashion. Y/Project’s official website states that the Paris-based brand combines “conceptual and inventive detailing with playful proportions and a witty take on historical references”. Glenn brilliantly implements modern trends and personal vision into his creations, which makes his designs stand out compared to other contemporary brands.
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GRACE WALES BONNER Grace Wales Bonner is a 29-year-old British designer. Right after she graduated from Central Saint Martins, she launched her brand in 2014. She started as a menswear brand and gradually expanded to womenswear. Since 2015, Grace was awarded Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards, received the LVMH Young Designer Prize, was invited by Maria Grazia Chiuri to collaborate with Dior, and announced the winner of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. These are just some of her achievements as Grace continues to conquer the industry and hearts of fashion lovers. If you explore Wales Bonner collections, you will find a collaboration with Adidas, extravagant dresses, minimalistic outwear, and plaid tracksuits. The designer’s style is so broad that you can never predict what her next collection is going to look like. This is why you should look into Grace Bonner’s creations — her range offers something for everybody’s taste.
CHOPOVA LOWENA Central Saint Martins graduates Emma Chopova and Laura Lovena give a second life to abandoned Bulgarian fabrics and national patterns. Emma grew up in America with Bulgarian parents, and Laura is from the UK. After enrolling in a bachelor’s degree at Central Saint Martins, the girls were united by a love for traditional crafts. In search of materials, Chopova often returns to her parents’ village and the mountains outside the capital of Sofia. The found blankets, tartan aprons, and vintage fabrics get transformed into kilts and blouses with eclectic sporty elements, imbued with punk serenity.
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Arab Fashion Council
Fashion revival
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OVID-19 has affected all industries around the world, including the fashion industry. The lockdown and severe restrictions forced brands to experiment with high technologies in order to present their new collections and give shoppers the feeling at least remotely similar to the physical shopping they love. This is how virtual fitting rooms, digital catwalks, and clothing appeared. It’s quite surprising because all brands intend to keep such technologies even after the removal of all restrictions and stabilization of the coronavirus situation. What’s more, some brands like Jacquemus got really creative in how they make content and collaborate 16 mover-magazine.com
with models. They use FaceTime as a way to organize photoshoots. Of course, such homemade shoots don’t involve make-up artists, hairstylists, or any other personnel. There is only one model in the room which allows both her and the remote photographer to show their creativity to the fullest. It wasn’t easy for some brands to produce new clothes and supply them, so they created virtual clothes which have become a practical solution to create and display a new collection without having to make a physical fashion show which is usually a complicated and time-consuming process. Even if designers don’t have opportunities to create a new item yet, customers can still add it to their cart,
wishlist, or pre-order it. Once it’s made, it will be promptly shipped to them. For example, a famous designer Kat Taylor has created digital renders of her new collections, available on the Selfridges retailer’s website. After prolonged isolation, buyers have recognized the need to switch to sustainable brands. Now they want to see the works of designers who care about the environmental issues and know about the adverse effects produced by clothing manufacturing. Fashionistas have used the self-isolation time to reflect on their preferences, explore their fashion needs, and determine which brands should be supported by them from the perspective of responsible consumption.
Representatives of the newest generations (generation Z and millennials) have already examined the topic of sustainable fashion long before the COVID-19 pandemic. After everything that humanity has been through, their preferences are now more visible than ever. The young generation deeply respects the aspiration of the brands to help the planet which suffers not just during the pandemic
but literally every day due to the production processes. Thus, brands that incorporate sustainable clothing production into their business model will receive more attention from the younger generation. Moving to a sustainable system has become a conscious choice for many people. Now it’s considered to be not just a short-term fashion trend but is a serious strategy for the future. Mass production of disposable products is still paused, while more buyers are switching to more eco-friendly analogs that are often reusable. The key to success for brands in the future is flexibility and sustainability. This reboot of the fashion industry could mean a return to basic and most important fashion values such as simplicity, beauty and uniqueness.
CLO Virtual Fashion LLC CLO Virtual Fashion LLC
CLO Virtual Fashion LLC
Carling
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Designer: Zakhmatova Olga @zo_brand Photographer: Sukhoviy Anastasia @naskens MUAH: Anna Bobkova @by_bobbi.bo Model: Ksenia Furmanova @vgmodels Model: Daria Krasnova @vgmodels
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RUSSIAN BRAND OF WOMEN’S CLOTHING
ZO
Founder and designer Olga Zakhmatova. Unusual clothes for amazing women. The concept of the brand is based on the reading of the architectural cut, straight, strong lines, but at the same time refined, light and sublime, for a Woman, in which different facets are combined, collected into a single whole. Collection SS 21 dedicated to the Woman with freedom in her heart and wings behind her back.
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Not only ordinary viewers like us love watching famous movies and get inspired. Many ladies from all over the world still dream of having breakfast at Tiffany’s, for example, and how about Rose’s necklace from the James Cameron super famous “Titanic”? Many films have also inspired and keep on inspiring designers to create unique collections. Which footage from the films has been featured on mood boards of the top fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Salvatore Ferragamo? Given the fact that all fashion shows are still held online, it’s no surprise that movies are what inspired designers and set them in a particular mood. Many fashion houses showed footage from their favorite films during online fashion shows which is quite an unusual interactive thing that attracts attention.
What movies did designers watch when creating new collections?
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LOUIS VUITTON: “WINGS OF DESIRE” (1987) Surprisingly, 30 years later, “Wings of Desire” remains the most recognizable work of the German filmmaker Wim Wenders. References to the famous film can be found, for example, in “Angel-A” by Luc Besson and in “The Tree of Life” by Terrence Malick. Louis Vuitton designer Nicolas Ghesquière took inspiration from this movie to create a new collection. The footage from the film was shown to viewers during the live fashion show. It was interspersed with the models walking down the runway. The silhouettes of some of the items are reminiscent of 1980s fashion: the collection includes long raincoats, oversized jackets, and wide-leg trousers.
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CHANEL: “THE SWIMMING POOL” (1969), “BREATHLESS” (1960), “PIERROT LE FOU” (1965), and “ELEVATOR TO THE GALLOWS” (1957) Chanel held quite an interesting fashion show. It was easy to guess what inspired the creative director of Chanel, Virginia Viard. The show’s set design reminded us of the Hollywood hills, but instead of the famous Hollywood sign, they had the “Chanel” sign on them. Virginia included in her mood board three French cinema masterpieces featuring the film stars of the time Romy Schneider, Anna Karina, and Jeanne Moreau. The designer suggests viewers of the fashion show guess which films were the inspiration for the fashion items instead of giving direct clues. Ruffles on the collars are inspired by Anna Karina in “Pierrot le Fou”. The snow-white clothing items of the collection are similar to those worn by Romy Schneider at “The Swimming Pool”. The jacket with contrasting edge piping on the lapels resembles the one worn by Jeanne Moreau in “The Elevator to the Gallows”.
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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: “ VERTIGO” (1958) and “ THE BIRDS” (1963) On self-isolation, many people watched lots of movies, including the very classics. Paul Andrew, creative director at Salvatore Ferragamo, was inspired by Alfred Hitchcock’s films. The designer’s new collection is inspired by the looks of Tippy Hedren in “The Birds” and Kim Novak in “Vertigo”. Surprisingly, the designer didn’t need to use silhouettes typical for the 1960s in the collection, because he conveys the Hitchcock atmosphere with the help of strict femininity of items. There are matte white leather dresses, fitted raincoats with a protective collar, and luxurious yet very practical suits with a kneelength skirt.
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COSMIC Photographer/Retoucher: Sabina Gasanova @sabject Model: Daria Pilnitskaya @modus_vivendis MUA: Maria Zaytseva @zaytsevamakeup Stylist: Nelli Astrakhanseva @nelli.kaihoo Accessories: @tsatsochnaya
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WOMEN’S DRESS as an ART OBJECT: 4 greatest collabs in fashion history
Once upon a time, the French monarch Louis the XIV, who is known as the King of Couture, pronounced the next filigree words: “Fashion is the mirror of history.” This quote predefined the holy truth. Styles of clothing always react to global social events no matter if it is war or the rethinking of human’s sexuality. What can immortalize the women’s beauty better than delicate artistic skills? Let’s delve into the past together and discover some haute couture masterpieces, created with world-wide famous knights of the brush.
Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali “Lobster dress” (1937) When swinging 2o-s had passed the button to a new decade, there followed a new verge of aesthetic shock for couture lovers. Now all of the gossips, mixed with shock and delight, swirled around the Italian-born French couturière Elsa Schiaparelli. Her garments represented a cat-in-the-hat and were literally screaming about their rebellious character. Despite a worth-delight tailoring skills, Elsa preferred to fight with dullness, therefore Paris had nothing to do except of cordially welcoming the shocking fuchsia shade in evening gowns, elegant outerwear with frivolous clasps and buttons shaped as astrological signs, and shabby shoe on top of the lady-like hat. Have you already recognized the art style, which interlaced Schiaparelli’s sketches? His majesty surrealism and genionsto-the-very-absurd painter Salvador Dali.
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Elsa Schiaparelli (up) and Salvador Dali (left)
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The Spanish artist met Elsa at the beginning of 30-s during one of the many secular events. No wonder they found what to talk about, got closer, and ventured for flamboyantly crazy collaboration. It’s fairly hard to choose the most outstanding masterpiece, but nevertheless lets glance at the appetizing Lobster Dress. The lobster motif came from a theme that Dali had previously cultivated in his own work, which included 1936’s Lobster Telephone, and was influenced by the work of Sigmund Freud. That’s how a sculpture-looking column gown with lobster art printed onto the silk organza dress was created by master silk designer Sache. A-line evening gown with a sheer coral inset below the bust that creates a slight empire-waist silhouette. By the way, lobster dress has made several famous reappearances in the 21st century, in particular by Prada.
Scott Paper Company and Andy Warhol Souper Dress (1966) The birth of pop art culture happened in the end of 50s. It was intended to make initially luxury masterpieces more affordable. Leading American fashion companies strived to collaborate with artistic trendsetters, who were capable of predicting the crush list of the youth around the globe. Funny fact is that the most objectively successful fashion project had been launched by American largest marketer of sanitary tissues. In 1966, Scott Paper Co. introduced disposable clothing as a promotion gimmick with a sleeveless shift selling for $1.00 and sold 500,000 dresses in 8 months. That new line became a hot potato in the fashion industry, because of the canvas, inspired by Andy Warhols’s Campbell’s Soup Cans (1962). In the nearest future the company expanded its line to include bell-bottom jumpsuits, evening gowns, aprons, men’s vests, children’s dresses and even swimming trunks.
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Prada and Christophe Chemin Spring-Summer 2016 Collaborating with artists is popular even today and the very eloquent example is Prada’s Spring-Summer collection 2016. In January Miuccia Prada and her design team plucked Berlin-based Frenchman Christophe Chemin out of near obscurity to create ink and pencil illustrations for the upcoming collection of the brand. The self-taught artist drew a series of mythic images from classical sources and the 20th century, depicting Jeanne d’Arc, Che Guevara, Nina Simone, Hercules and more famous people from here and beyond. Those couples were locked in tight embraces, seeming to ballet and brawl at the same time. However, the most eccentric and feverish one is a welcome-for-spy-on passionate kiss of Cleopatra and James Deane. All of those canvas fantasies, merged with a cloth folds, pulled heartstrings of either tempted art lovers or just curious passers-by.
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Yves Saint Laurent and Piet Mondrian 1965 Until 60s, all of the skirt and dresses fell below the knee have been waiting to get kinky. This dream was granted by a British designer Mary Quant, who for nowadays is known an inventor of mini length. As we know, every life-changing piece of wardrobe evolves through many interpretations. The legend of post-World War II couturière Yves Saint Laurent did it really well. He had the ability to seize trends and render them iconic. The Mondrian collection, represented in 1965, proved the aforesaid statement. As a vauyrist, Yves Saint Laurent had invariably captured the ambitious artists to transfer their work into his gowns. So back to that season, he was inspired by the leading contributor to De Stijl art movement Piet Mondrian. The basic form used by the group was rectangle; the basic colors: red, blue and yellow. Thus, Saint Lauren created a simple cut jersey shift dress falling straight from shoulder to knee and it was used as a canvas for exhibiting the work of Mondrian. Many years later French designer continued to engage with modern art and contemporary pop culture, namely with Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenshtien.
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How
fashion designers help to fight CORONAVIRUS Coronavirus makes people much more compassionate towards each other. In this article, MOVER reveals several stories of the most famous fashion brands and their ways to support people during a pandemic
RALPH LAUREN
BURBERRY
Apart from making several very generous donations (one of them is $10 million) to organizations in both the US and the UK, Ralph Lauren supports healthcare workers: the brand sends Ralph’s coffee truck to medical institutions in New York, making sure the healthcare professionals always have hot coffee and tasty pastry.
Like many other fashion houses, the famous British brand decided to help people in different ways. First of all, Burberry used its Yorkshire factory to make hospital gowns and masks for the NHS. Apart from this, Burberry has made several donations, including to the University of Oxford’s vaccine research and to two charity organizations that supply homeless people with food.
The brand actively shares its experience on Instagram. “New York is our hometown and a city that has been affected greatly by the global pandemic. Ralph’s coffee truck is serving complimentary coffee donated by La Colombe Coffee and baked goods to hospital workers across the New York metro area. Earlier this month, Ralph’s Coffee truck visited frontline workers at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York. The truck is also serving additional hospitals in the New York metro area. With this small gesture, we recognize with deep gratitude the tireless service of our local healthcare workers.” The brand also provided hospital workers with the uniform by producing 25,000 gowns and 250,000 masks. 38 mover-magazine.com
“In challenging times, we must pull together,” chief executive officer, Marco Gobbetti said. “The whole team at Burberry is very proud to be able to support those who are working tirelessly to combat Covid-19, whether by treating patients, working to find a vaccine solution, or helping provide food supplies to those in need at this time.”
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CHANEL Just like the above-mentioned brands, Chanel will be using its supply chains to produce highly demanded face masks for hospital workers in France. Besides, the brand has announced that it’s currently developing several prototypes, which will then need to be approved by the French authorities before they will be produced in factories.
VALENTINO/ BALMAIN These brands have a common parent company, which is Mayhoola – a Qatari investment fund that focuses on local and global investments. It has donated €2 million to fighting Covid-19 in Italy. Besides, the company has also donated €1 million for the same purpose in Spain.
Chanel has also donated £1 million to support the fight against coronavirus in France. This money will be donated to The National Emergencies Trust, local charities, and a fund that supplies medical workers with personal protection equipment (PPE).
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Saltwater
Photographer: Nadia Solntseva @nadia_solntseva MUA: Daria Sergeeva @_sergeevadaria_ MUA: Olga Mozhaeva @mua_olyamozh Model: Ekaterina Feofanova @katiusha_feofanova Model: Ivan Zarubin @ivanzar92
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Model: Ermolay Ukhimov @ermolayproduction Stylist: Diana Mamonova @dianaaa.ma Stylist: Liza Mameshina @l.nkw Clothing brand: @azafran.brand Clothing brand: @chervonsky
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AFFORDABLE what’s that and how it LUXURY: works in 2021 Drawing of the “Ford” dress by Coco Chanel
S
ince the days of Adam and Eve, women have been using a thousand and one tricks of dressing to look their best. However, considering the fact of predominant tailoring and bespoke gowns, inspired by royal taste, the desirable clothing kept teasing barely wealthy young ladies from afar. Thankfully, we don’t face that problem anymore, simply because of the phenomenon of affordable fashion. Let’s discover its roots and glance at that striking evolution. The history of cheap dress informally started by mademoiselle Coco Chanel, who strived to simplify pad-equipped gowns, get rid of defiant feather-embellished hats and promote the revolutionary style a-la garcon. Thus, the unscrupulous point of view led to the world-wide-famous creation called the little black dress. Cocktail length, waist-deprived silhouette and basic dark shade turned the society’s values topsy-turvy, causing the verge of curiosity, still veiled by a mute rage. Nevertheless, Coco didn’t decrease the price on her masterpiece, and the legendary dress continued wearing a haute couture tag. Right until American department stores, including Sears, represented a veritable wonderland of nipped-waisted frocks with Dior-inspired voluminous skirts in 1955. Actually some noble attempts had already been undertaken even before Coco Chanel’s debut, according to a trustworthy information in books, such as Elizabeth Cline’s one named “The Good Closet”.
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Besides, if you glance inside another autobiography, written by New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, you will discover a rather contradictory thing. Back in 50s, the majority of Paris Haute Couture collections were demonstrated in the main boutique, and the designer himself invited just a limited number of guests, giving a preference to faithful clients and powerful journalists. Well, fruit often tastes sweeter when it’s forbidden. Mr Cunningham generously revived the memory about US buyers with notes and pencils, who had tried to join the show, but had to peep through the curtains. They were supposed to hide new season’s models from stamping. As you may guess, that diligent caution failed, letting sacral parisian sketches go viral. By the way, nobody dared calling foreign entrepreneurs as a thiefs, and in less than one decade America’s garment industry was the envy of the world and women’s wear was its number one product.
Bill Cunningham
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| CULTURE As clothes have become cheaper, the clothing consumption has gone through the roof, despite always-hungry-for-spare-time housekeepers, who continued to sew at home, using a myriad of fashionable patterns available in women’s magazines. Rebellious 60s opened a new chapter owing to collaborating with young and ambitious designers, for example with the british mini-skirt creator Mary Quant. Previously naughty Mary shocked a stand-offish Londoners, representing sleeveless flamboyantly colored dresses, almost exposing the panties. No wonder she literally hypnotized American department stores, signed a worthwhile contract and gifted young customers an opportunity to be trendy, saving pocket money for Coca-Cola and chewing gum.
Fashion show, 1947 summer collection by Christian Dior
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We all know what happened next. Part of designers kept sitting back on the reputation they had already acquired, while the whole world contemplated the birth of H&M, Zara, Walmart and all discounters, who sell low-quality clothing, sewn on patterns of runway looks.
The first ZARA Store in Madrid, Spain
Despite the laborious success, the aforementioned brands were close to getting out of breath, therefore they started cooperating with high-fashion designers and celebrities. Fast-fashion brands recently received a high profile co-sign, as leading ladies Kate Middleton and Michelle Obama have been spotted in dresses from retailers. Plus, you can also go above and beyond your income by purchasing the golden leather jacket by Love Republic & Roberto Cavalli or sophisticated ruffle skirt from H&M × Rodarte. In affordable fashion only one issue stays the same. If you wish to pay-less-to-staychick, take off the high-heels and prepare to haunt for your wardrobe gem, overtaking the crowd of like-minded people.
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Alina Kedys
Alina Kedys is a perfect example of an ambitious Alina, you were born in Ukraine and then moved to the USA. What difficulties did you face while moving? Who helped you to make young woman who never gives up and works hard your first steps as an American fashion stylist? for her dreams to come true. Alina is a fashion Yes, I am a proud Ukrainian. I was born there, graduated there too. stylist and a former model. However, my American dream has been following me since early childhood. My father has In this interview, she told MOVER been living in the USA for a very long time, so I always had a feeling that one day I would be ready to settle and make a career there. about her way to success, her AK Regarding my first steps in a fashion stylist career: it was a lucky circumstance. My friend was creative agency, and the hottest supposed to have a photoshoot, but something happened to her wardrobe stylist. She asked SS’21 fashion trends me if I wanted to send my portfolio, and that’s how everything started. Magic happened! You’ve been engaged in the fashion industry for more than 15 years, so you’ve been both in front of the camera and behind it. Did modeling experience help you to become a stylist? Definitely! I believe it’s the best learning experience a person can get in university. Being a part of different projects, taking photos and filming videos, seeing everything from the inside and out - all these things are very important. I’m grateful for my long journey in the fashion industry that brought me to my dream work. You visited Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks to get inspired and build a professional port folio as a stylist. What did you learn during these trips? I went to Paris and spent one summer month there. I love this city, it inspires me so much. Thanks to my modeling contacts, I know some photographers and models from Paris. I was doing mood boards and photoshoots for them. It was a beautiful time that I will never forget. 58 mover-magazine.com
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You successfully run your own AK crea tive agency. Is there any philosophy that makes up its essence? What goals do you wish to achieve in the future? In the AK creative Agency, we have a philosophy that style is an art of living. We believe that beauty hides in every detail of our lives and inspire our clients to become better versions of themselves. Besides, we’re planning to organize events with the style and touch of our creativity. Every celebration with AK Creative Agency would be an unforgettable experience, whether it’s a personal photoshoot, a fashion birthday party, or a personal development event. I want to expand our agency and hopefully one day AK Creative Agency will open its offices in Paris and Dubai. As a fashion stylist, can you tell us what are the hottest SS2021 trends? One of my favorite trends is to be natural, always. When it comes to fashion trends, I’ll point out the following ones: 1. Natural hair, minimum makeup, neutral nail color, and comfy clothes. 2. A bright statement shoulder bag. 3. Sorbet pastel tones (lavender, cool mint green, yogurt pink). 4. Mules. They will make your total look better. We’ve seen them on every runway for SS21, and now they are sold in shops and boutiques. Many options are budget-friendly. Do you have any secret of success that you’d like to share with all MOVER readers, espe cially those interested in the fashion industry? The secret is to follow your dreams no matter what. I was a little girl dreaming about moving to New York city. I worked hard to achieve my goal and now I’m here! The fashion industry is indeed pretty tough, but anyone can be successful if he truly loves it, and puts in a lot of hard work. I’m a very good example of that: I love fashion, work hard, and see results. I wish and hope that my work and life will inspire others to live out their passion and to follow their dreams too. mover-magazine.com 59
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Jacket: Vintage The faux leather skirt: Design by Christy Greeve Gloves: Vintage
Model: Muna Mohamed @munamasna Photographer/Retoucher: Romi van der Linden @romivanderlinden.nl Photographer/Retoucher: Pépita de Vos @pepitadevos.nl Stylist/ Designer: Christy Greeve @christinehelenagreeve MUAH: Naomi Bonita @naomibonitabeauty
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Top: Styling Improvisation Bralette top: Vintage Skirt: Weekday Gloves: Vintage
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Jacket & Pants set: Vintage Golden earrings: Fashionology Nails: Luminous Luxury nails Ring: Vintage gold ring Shoes: Vintage
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The marathon of fashion weeks is over, but creative silage is still pulsing in the air. Despite the pandemic that had imprisoned the majority of shows inside the digital dimension, we all got the generous portion of runway’s larger-than-life clothing and accessories. Today let’s talk about hats, which might either provoke heart attacks or impress even the most wordly-wise aesthetes.
TEAR or WEAR? The Strangest Hats Captured on Runway
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s you may know, initially hats weren’t an optional thing to wear, especially for women. In middle ages ladies with “bald” heads could be blamed on witchcraft and end their lives in hellfire, accompanied by clapping raging crowds. After many centuries, hats have become a boasting accessory. The more embellished with gems and artificial flowers your hats are, the more society respects your taste and wealth. Now rules are topsy-turvy, so without further ado, think whether you would wear or tear…
MAX MARA’S — Waterproof Veil Ian Griffiths, creative director of Max Mara, votes for indispensable romance and elegance in womens attire, but doesn’t mind entertaining with layering. This time he diversified well-known-Italian classics with mutagenic accessories. No, we dont judge tweed gatsby hats. They undoubtedly look cool. What about that stitched piece of water-proof fabric, that looks like a wedding veil, but serves as a pointed hood from pouring rain? Well, rather practical for sailing marriage.
Alberta Ferretti — Bolero-Top-Hat Brave cowboys, mysterious indians and fearless toreadors have always been a source of inspiration for women’s wear, especially on the verge of feminism mood. In the beginning of February 2021, Alberta Ferretti chose British designer Natalie Ratabesi as the new creative director, and she definitely succeeded. Flamboyant turtlenecks and elongated capes were crowned with revived-andrethought Bolero hat. Unlike its Spanish ancestor, Alberta Ferretti’s creations have bothered-to-see breems and some features of gentlemen’s top hat.
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MOSCHINO — Dolly Fedoras In the last century, Franco Moschino manifested that fashionable clothing and accessories must amuse and saturate frequently-boring-reality with absurd attires made of teddy bears and anything you can find in the living room or in the trash can. The current creative director Jeremy Scott keeps that deliberately absurd line, reviving nostalgic styles and having fun with fairytale prints-and-details. Despite the proper runway show being turned into a cartoon background with grotesque posing, fashion-lovers got bewildered anyway. Who stays indifferent contemplating Hailey Bieber, dressed like tomboy mafiosi with diminished Fedora, attached to brilliantined hair? Make a note if you want a breath of freshness in the office dress code.
Emilia Wickstead — Trained Floppy Hats Talking about British designers, there hard to capture hints on avangard beside Vivienne Westwood or Matty Bovan. However, Central Saint Martins graduate Emilia Wickstead, who is currently known for her modern silhouettes, strong use of colour and traditional tailoring, gobsmacked those conservative anticipations. As usual, she skilfully rejuvenated 30-s style dresses and old-classic single-breasted-overcoat, but the main achievement were christened rare-but-dear floppy hats. Suddenly the famous bohemian accessory learned how to speak British and grew the felt train as after the show the models were invited to join Queen Elisabeth’s tea party.
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Anna Sui — Fluffy Buckets Unsurprisingly, the parade of hats ends up with Anna Sui’s naively daring lookbook. The american designer glorified her name creating kind-of-weird and very youthful clothing with dazzling prints, that any anime character would pleasurably wear. The cheerful mood does not vanish even in the pandemic time and we got lucky to find bucket hats with sprouted colorful fur. You choose to wear or tear those creations, but anyway fluffy buckets tend to perfectly match an oversized quilted coat.
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Model: Jean-René Wiedemann @jean_rene_wiedemann Photographer: Reiner Wolpers @emotion_art_photographer
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Jean-René Wiedemann
Jean-René Wiedemann is a perfect example of a man who is a fighter both in the ring and in life. He speaks four languages, works for Tesla Motors in Germany, and strives to develop himself as a model and fashion influencer. In this interview, JeanTell us about your childhood. How did you become a model? René told MOVER about was born in Lomé, Togo, Africa. Thanks to my dad, I have German nationality. After I received my bachelor’s degree his childhood, career, in Lomé, I moved to Paris but eventually decided to come and obstacles on his way to Germany to start a new life here. I stayed in Augsto success burg-City, which is the city where my dad grew up. Then
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I completed military service and after that had a really hard time getting my commercial apprenticeship because the German language wasn’t easy for me. I met my best friends here, so we created the Glory boys family consisting of Thomas & Francois Akpaloo, Williams Mac, Sedic, and Raiz. After that, I met the man who changed my whole life. It was Reiner Wolpers, a photographer from Emotion Art Photographer. He took me to different kinds of photoshoots which were my first shoots. Reiner also helped me to realize that even though I’m not a professional model, I still can inspire people with my personality and positive vibrations that I bring out with the pictures we make. We act just how we think, so that’s why some people become real legends: they just set such a goal. I want my name and image to be unforgettable too. You know, many successful people had a really hard childhood. Can you tell us what influenced you? My family influenced and still influences me very much. I don’t think that I want to talk about it much because this topic is very personal, but my family definitely makes me stronger. I’m really thankful that God quickly showed me that life can be unfair, however, you still have to appreciate it, and if you want to make it better, you need to fight because nobody will do it for you. You’re pretty young but seem to be a very experienced person. What’s your main life achievement? What did you learn to date? I believe that every day is a big achievement, however, I haven’t made my biggest ones yet. I’m just on the way to it. What I learned is that nobody will work for you to achieve your goals. People can help you, but the only one who makes the dreams come true is yourself. Of course, some sacrifices have to be made, but that’s life and we have to follow its rules.
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| PEOPLE We know that you like kickboxing and it’s one of your favorite hob bies. Have you ever wanted to become a professional kickboxer? Kickboxing and Muay Thai boxing are the best things that happened in my life. When I’m at the training, I feel the true balance: I can use all my body either to defend myself or to face problems and find out the way to survive. I’ve participated in several boxing fights, however, I didn’t like it much because, in kickboxing or Muay Thai, you have so many opportunities to use your legs or elbows or to use different types of combinations, so you can be creative. During the ring fight, you only have to make some typical combinations and that’s not interesting for me. Boxing is like real life: when you face difficulties, you need to use all your skills to prove to yourself that you can be on top. You should prove yourself that you can be the king of the ring and the king of your life and make choices without remorse because in the end you’ll find yourself fighting to survive and becoming your own king. Why did you choose Germany to stay in? I chose Germany because my nationality is German and I like challenges as well. The German language is pretty hard for me but I decided to try to learn it, why not? I like trying everything new in life, so Germany is another opportunity for me to do it. French is my second language while my native language is Eve. By the way, I speak four different languages. I recognized one interesting fact about the German people: they are really hard-working. Since my childhood in my native country, we have recognized German people as hard workers. My dad has been working hard too. He moved to my native country to start a new life there and I was inspired by his experience. It’s not easy at all, as sometimes I even fall asleep while trying to finish my essay or work at night. However, I still like challenges and that’s why I’m in Germany now. Do you have any role models or people that inspire you? My first role models are my family members: my mom, and my dad. I’m also extremely proud of my younger brother Maximilian Wiedemann, who is a great basketball player in my native country. They are pretty far away from me now but they live their best lives in Lomé, Togo. At the moment, I’m inspired by Israel Adesanya, a UFC fighter who is very focused on his goals. I also really like Dwayne Johnson aka The Rock, who currently works with the Under Armour brand which is my favorite brand. The Rock’s life experience really inspires me not to give up, live every day to become a better person than I was yesterday, and try to keep smiling even if you have hard times. You have experience of working for Tesla. Tell us about this coop eration. Working for Tesla Motor Germany in Munich is amazing. You quickly learn new things, i. e. you learn to take responsibility and think ahead. You also learn to manage stress and become as flexible as possible. Working for Tesla is a big challenge because we grow and develop every month, but I like challenges and the Tesla company has enough of it.
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How can you develop yourself within the Tesla company? Is it a fast process? In the Tesla company, you can develop really quickly, but it depends on how much motivation, self-control, and attitude you have. I have colleagues who do their best for the sake of the company, we have a strong team spirit and together we can handle stress and go forward no matter what. We are hungry for success and are ready to face any kind of difficulties. As a colleague of mine says, “We don’t have problems, we have challenges and for any challenge, we have solutions.” Thank you, Rafael, Nazari, Winnie, Dieter, Baba, Sameer, Carlo, Boss Sven, and Tesla Team Munich! Are you going to become professional with your blog? In fact, that is why I’m here. If there is an opportunity, I won’t let it go, I will use it. Do you have any plans for improving your skills in sales or developing yourself as an influencer? I want to improve both things. I believe that social media will be important in the future, and I want to be a part of it. Sales are the best way to learn how to sell yourself and what you do. Sales taught me to be a many-sided person because the world changes every day and you have to keep up with it. What’s your main life goal? Where do you see yourself in 5 years? That’s a really good question. Since I learned how to walk and breathe, my main life goal has been working hard for my future, just doing it, because nobody will do it for me. I can’t tell what will happen to me in 5 years because of the coronavirus outbreak, however, I’m sure that I won’t give up. I will work to achieve what I want even if I need to make some sacrifices until people remember my name and know who I am and where I come from. I’m Jean-René Wiedemann, you should remember my name. At the moment, I would like to concentrate on my goals, while remembering where I came from. I haven’t finished it yet, but step by step, I learn to love who I am. Some people may say that I’m quite a frivolous person because I look like a playboy but I’m actually not him, I swear. I just like to be different and I always say that I’m different. My childhood wasn’t easy at all but I keep on going, looking for success and options to get on top. I work for everything that I can have in life. I like obstacles because I can fight to overcome them.
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Photographer: Maria Shanko @photographer_shanko Stylist: Ekaterina Bila @ekaterina_bila
MUA: Anastasia Silevko @silevko_mua Hair stylist: Dolores Kobzeva @dolores_kobzeva Model: Kristina Rupp @kristinka_rupp
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Lady in Red
A woman successfully working in the male industry is a fairly common phenomenon nowadays. Nevertheless, Anastasia Desson left stable, profitable work in order to fulfill her dream, namely to create the Lady in Red clothing brand. The heroine of this interview told MOVER about how one meeting can change the whole life, what stands behind the name of her brand, and gave some advice to those who want to change their professional path, but are afraid of it Along with unique personality traits, I also have versatile professional skills that can be applied to other industries. Thanks to them, changing the field of activity was quite easy for me.
Anastasia, it’s believed that it’s easier for a man to build a career in the oil industry. However, you have a long work experience in this field, as well as an MBA (Master of Business Administration) degree. How did you come to be an engineer? As a child, I wanted to become a lawyer. At that time, it seemed to me that these are beautiful, respected people with interesting work. Perhaps I was just imagining a Hollywood movie picture in my mind. Later on, I realized that in Russia, lawyers are often employees of law enforcement agencies, and therefore my desire to develop myself in this area disappeared. Nevertheless, I managed to enroll in the most prestigious university in the region and decided to become an engineer in the oil industry. At the moment, you’re ready to start a new creative work. Tell us, how do you feel after a drastic change in the field of activity? I have very diverse work experience and related skills. Nowadays, technologies are developing rapidly, so we need to learn new skills every 3 years. Only personal qualities remain unchanged. That’s why, along with professional courses, I pay great attention to the development of communication skills. I would recommend everyone to talk to each other more. Formulate your statements correctly: the clearer you express your desires, feelings, and expectations, the better your life will be. 80 mover-magazine.com
How long have you discovered your passion for fashion and design? Can you remember what contributed to this? While studying at business school, I attended an event dedicated to supporting women in business. What inspired me most was the fact that all the women at this event were open-minded, they accepted each other, regardless of their bodies, hairstyles, age differences, and clothing brands. The event was hosted by a short, middle-aged, plus-size woman. Despite her height and quite curvy body, she looked incredibly attractive! The main message of the event was that women should not compete with each other, but should support each other. I also remember one woman. In her 50s, she was a successful entrepreneur in great physical shape. She was a great speaker as well. I thought that her clothes additionally emphasized the dignity of this woman. She was unforgettable, and her gorgeous red suit and attractiveness inspired me to create the Lady in Red brand. The «Lady in Red» phrase is well-known by many people thanks to the song by Chris de Burgh. Why did you name your brand this way? Indeed, many people could hear the «Lady in Red» phrase in the song by Chris de Burgh. For the first time, I heard this song in karaoke from a man with whom I was in love at the moment. With the help of my clothing brand, I would like to make every woman feel that she is sophisticated and feminine, just like Chris de Burgh sang. Lady in Red brand offers tailoring according to individual measurements. These clothes will emphasize the beauty of every woman’s body.
The red color is a symbol of passion, strength, and power. The word «red» itself sounds like a pretty bold statement. Can you tell me who your «Lady in Red» is? Lady in Red is a modern woman with an active lifestyle. She’s bold and self-confident but at the same time feminine and sophisticated. Lady in Red clothes is suitable for any event where a woman wants to be brighter and feel confident. Launching a personal brand is always exciting and chal lenging. Who supports you in your new endeavor? My family and my team support me. I am just starting to select my
staff, but I‘m already sure that we will work well together and enjoy both the process itself and our victories within the brand. What advice would you give to those who want to drastically change their field of activity, but are afraid of change and un certainty? If you decided to change what you do, you need to make up a clear plan and follow it. I would recommend you to first try yourself in areas related to the previous job. When you feel confident in the new industry, you can take further steps to the more drastic changes. mover-magazine.com 81
Mover radio 10 songs that will cheer you up during lockdown Considering the fact that the pandemic and self-isolation are very stressful situations, people appeal to music as one of the best means of relaxation. Nice compositions help us to reflect, relax or even dance around while we’re waiting for the food delivery. Here are the best songs that you can consider to be your self-isolation playlist!
1. Bop Daddy - Falz (2020) 2. Everything I Wanted - Billie Eilish (2019) 3. Imagine - John Lennon (1971) 4. Party in the USA - Miley Cyrus (2009) 5. Toxic - Britney Spears (2003) 6. Ride Natty Ride - Bob Marley (1979) 7. We Will Rock You - Queen (1977) 8. I Will Survive - Gloria Gaynor (1978) 9. She Said, She Said - The Beatles (1966) 10. Like a Champion - Selena Gomez (2013)
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MODE PRODUCTION photo/video content * lookbook * campaign * fashion show * fashion brand creation
@mode.production
Production: @mode.production Agency: @fp_model_agency_rus Photograph: Malika Atadjanova @malika_photography Stylist: Sofia Kochergina @_soffiia__ MUA: Natalia Bezrukova @natashamarke Model: Alina Olenina @alinabomb
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