BelGuest magazin summer 2009 by Milena Mihaljcic

Belgrade Visitors’ Magazine

Volume 9, SUMMER 2009

free copy

INTERVIEW NIKITA MILIVOJEVIĆ

SIGHTSEEING - AVALA ENCIRCLING THE CITY’S PORTRAIT

UNIVERSIADE 2009 SETTING NEW STANDARDS A WEEKEND IN SERBIA CITY OF NIŠ & CITY OF NOVI SAD

IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRŽAJA

6 S I G H T S E E I N G - AVALA, UP AND TO THE SOUTH ENCIRCLING THE CITY’S PORTRAIT ZAOKRUŽIVANJE PORTRETA GRADA 12 INTERVIE W - N I K I TA M I L I V O J E V I Ć TO BE THE SAME MEANS TO CHANGE BITI ISTI ZNAČI − MENJATI SE 22 RASTKO PETROVIĆ ART BUYING LIFE UMETNOST KAO KUPOVINA ŽIVOTA

2 8 O LG A – O L J A I VA N J I C K I RUNNER FASTER THAN TIME TRKAČ BRŽI OD VREMENA 4 8 S I E PA P R E S E N T S A C R E AT I V E S E R B I A FILM IN SERBIA FILM U SRBIJI 60 CITY BREAK – NOVI SAD HODNICI VREMENA CORRIDORS OF TIME 7 0 TO S R E C O M M E N D S - H O M E L A N D G A L L E R I E S THE POWER OF TENDERNESS SNAGA NEŽNOSTI

74 A WEEKEND IN SERBIA - NIŠ ROYAL FAIRY CITY VILINSKI I CARSKI GRAD 82 BANJA LUKA CITY OF EXTREME SPORTS GRAD EKSTREMNIH SPORTOVA 92

BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING

115 INFO

Belgrade Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Strahinjića bana 27 tel./fax 26 333 60, 29 101 06, mob tel. 065/84 97 582 e-mail: belguest@ikomline.net, belguest@gmail.com www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.rs www.tob.co.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Copublisher - Suizdavač: Jasna Dimitrijević, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Jadranka Đorđević Vlada Marković, Miloš Janković Contributors - Saradnici: Luka Stanisavljević, Vladimir Počuč, Jovan Sekulić, Jelena Tasić, Tanja Vanić, Dragomir Antonić, Jovo Anđić, Ljilja Lučić, Igor Gojković, Siniša Jokić Milenko Kovačević Photographs- Fotografije: Dragan Bosnić, Danilo Peternek, Branko Jovanović Editorial Secretary - Sekretar redakcije: Ana Gligorijević Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković, Miodrag Vujić, Bojan Lalović Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editor - Lektor za engleski: Mark R. Pullen Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Design assistante - Pomoćnik dizajnera: Ana Gligorijević Print - Štampa: Tipografic plus, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: Universiade 2009 (Rhythmical Gymnastics) Photograph - Milovan Knežević CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief = glavni i odgovorni urednik Dragana Marković - 2001, spring, / Beograd : Izdavačko preduzeće PONT : Turistička organizacija Beograda, 2001(Beograd, Tipografic plus). - 29 cm Tromesečno ISSN 1451-6446 = BelGuest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

Knez Mihailova , Street Musicians, photograph Branko JovanoviÄ&#x2021;

E D I T O R I A L

U V O D N I K

his summer, the 2009 Universiade – the most important sporting competition among student athletes from all over the world – has left its mark on Belgrade. The youth of Belgrade and the whole of Serbia had the opportunity to meet peers from every continent. Most Universiade participants were young people that had come to Belgrade for the very first time. We have all done our very best to make our guests feel welcome, as well as making sure that they wish to come back to our city some day. May the Universiade be another reason to love Belgrade even more. Besides being an international event known for its sporting dimension, the Universiade is equally important from the aspect of its multicultural exchanges. And throughout the month of September, the City of Belgrade will be organising activities to celebrate European Heritage Days. This event is celebrated throughout Europe with the aim of stressing and acknowledging the particular role of cultural activities; creating conditions for progress and free interaction of cultures; encouraging dialogue between cultures; nurturing interculturalism, preserving and promoting cultural goods and values. European Heritage Days are important for the tourist promotion of the city. Tourism encourages nations to come together; it creates awareness of the European cultural identity and stresses the importance of various nations’ heritage. The essential value of cultural heritage is greater than its importance to tourism, while cultural tourism is only one of the ways in which this heritage can be used. European Heritage Days represent yet another opportunity to show our respect for different cultures in the spirit of tolerance, as well as to stress the need for new knowledge, exchanges, encounters and intercultural dialogue. It is also an occasion to feel the urge to get to know our city more and better, so that we may learn how to love and understand other cities and different cultures, all the while helping our city to fulfil its potential and become a true modern European cultural metropolis. Jasna Dimitrijević Director of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade

vo leto u Beogradu protiče u znaku Univerzijade – najvećeg sportskog takmičenja studenata iz celog sveta. Mladi iz Beograda i cele Srbije imali su priliku da upoznaju vršnjake sa svih kontinenata. Učesnici ovog sportskog takmičenja su većinom mladi koji su prvi put u Beogradu. Dali smo svi sve od sebe da gosti požele ponovni dolazak u naš grad. Neka Univerzijada bude još jedan povod da se više voli Beograd. Nakon multikulturne razmene, koja, pored sporta, čini Univerzijadu posebno važnim događajem, septembar će biti u znaku obeležavanja Dana evropske kulturne baštine. Ta manifestacija se obeležava u svim zemljama Evrope radi isticanja i odavanja priznanja posebnoj ulozi kulturnih delatnosti, stvaranja uslova za napredak i slobodnu razmenu kultura, radi podsticanja dijaloga među kulturama, negovanja interkulturalnosti, zaštite i promocije kulturnih dobara i vrednosti. Dani evropske kulturne baštine značajni su za turističku promociju grada. Turizam podstiče zbližavanje naroda, razvoj svesti o evropskom kulturnom identitetu i značaju kulturnog nasleđa različitih naroda. Suštinska vrednost tog nasleđa veća je od njegovog značaja za turizam, a kulturni turizam je samo jedan od vidova njegovog korišćenja. Dani evropske kulturne baštine još su jedna prilika da u duhu uvažavanja različitih kultura, u duhu tolerancije, istaknemo potrebu za novim saznanjima, potrebu za razmenom, susretima, kulturnim dijalogom, te da osetimo želju za boljim upoznavanjem svoga grada kako bismo umeli da volimo i razumemo druge gradove, različite kulture, razvijajući se sve brže i sve više kao moderna evropska kulturna metropola. Jasna Dimitrijević Direktor Turističke organizacije Beograda

Skupština grada Beograda City Assembly of Belgrade

Turistička organizacija Beograda Tourist Organization of Belgrade

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

David Mcreynolds

S I G H TSE E I N G

| AVALA, UP AND TO THE SOU TH

ENCIRCLING THE CITY’S PORTRAIT This summer, a decade after NATO’s destruction of the Avala TV tower, this symbol of Belgrade is again “rising up to the skies”. Just as the Eiffel Tower is Paris’s landmark, Big Ben London’s, the Kremlin Moscow’s or the Statue of Liberty New York’s, so the unique tripod TV tower on Avala has been the symbol of Belgrade.

or three and a half decades, Mount Avala’s TV tower resisted winds and weathering, standing the test of time and representing a beacon of the capital for visiting travellers. With the toils of war, the bombs fell on 29th April, 1999, destroying this masterpiece of architecture: the only TV tower that had stood on a tripod to symbolise Serbia’s traditional three-legged chair. It was designed in 1960 by architects Uglješa Bogunović and Slobodan Janjić and engineer academic Milan Krstić. At the time, it was an outstanding feat of engineering and the tallest building in the Balkans at 202 metres high; in Paris it received the award for Europe’s most beautiful TV tower. The reconstruction of the roof of Belgrade has proven extremely difficult and painstaking. However, thanks to the persistence of the Serbian Journalists Association (UNS), the idea to reconstruct the tower soon came to life. Removal of the remains of the destroyed building got underway in May 2005 and lasted for two months. Then the cornerstone of the foundations was laid on 6th February, 2007. The reconstruction has been estimated at a total cost of €8.5 million. According to preliminary plans, the tower was due to officially open for the 10th anniversary of its destruction on 29th April, 2009. However, strong winds prevented the opening ceremony and the event was postponed for three months. The last of the antennae will be put

in place during this summer and the tower will be equipped with two lifts and a restaurant perched on the 119th metre above ground. The viewing area for tourists will be on the 122nd metre, while the peak of the antenna will stand at 202.87 metres above ground. - Ever since we started the initiative to reconstruct the Avala colossus in 2003, we have not encountered anyone who has refused to support us. More than 500 artists, businesspeople and citizens have contributed in different ways to ensure that the symbol of the capital city and a masterpiece of world architecture can again stand as an adornment of Avala Mountain. The new-old symbol of Belgrade will have two lifts for visitors to reach the peak of the Serbian Eiffel Tower, as painter Olja Ivanjicki dubbed it, in less than a minute. The dome will look almost the same as the old one – composed of two parts. The first part will be occupied by an entrance hall, postal and TV hall. The next level will be occupied by a restaurant and a viewing area spanning around 100 square metres, explains Miloš, a.k.a. Bato, Milatović - initiator and editor of the action “Let’s Build the Avala Tower”. Exits are planned at every 25th metre and in the case of an emergency they will lead towards a concrete staircase within the tower. The new construction will be able to resist the strongest winds and even strong earthquakes. According to the tower’s

designers, the peak of the tower will move 60 centimetres in cases of maximum gusts of winds, whereas the antenna will move up to one metre. If such a situation occurs, alarms will engage and both lifts will stop instantaneously. Although at first sight it looks identical to the previous tower, the new one is being constructed in a completely different way. The most modern construction materials and state-of-the-art technology will make it almost impossible to destroy. - Unlike the previous tower, which was not resistant to earthquakes, the new one will resist earthquakes as strong as 9.2 degrees on the Mercalli intensity scale. The fact that the legs of the tripod are dug into the earth 8.6 metres deep makes the tower even more stable. Another innovation for the rebuilt tower is that the peak will be made of inflammable materials and, therefore, completely safe for visitors, Milatović explains. MOUNTAIN’S PARADISE GARDEN Few European metropolises can boast a mountain only sixteen kilometres from downtown. Avala is 511 metres high and rises above the surrounding undulating lowlands. It is actually the northernmost mountain of Šumadija, stretching from Rudnik Mountain through lowland Šumadija, and represents the dividing line between the Sava and Danube basins. Rich in ores, Avala was actually named after the

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Caryatids beside the tomb of the Unknown Hero

avalite mineral, which was found on this mountain. At the end of 2007, the City of Belgrade Assembly proclaimed this mountain a protected natural heritage site, though Duke Miloš was the first to pass a decision to protect Avala in 1859 and in 1936 the mountain became a national park. In 1946, the Presidency of the National Assembly passed a decision protecting Avala as a treasure of general importance. There are some 600 herb species in the protected area; the mountain is rich in different species of birds and medicinal herbs, while it also boasts some very rare herbs - including broom (“zanovet”), Turk’s cap (“zlatan”) and the European holly (“zelenika”). One can immediately notice that the mountain is richly covered in free-growing trees, while one part is The Monument to the Unknown Hero

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Raising of the monument

covered in planted pine woods. These characteristics ensure that Avala is Belgraders’ favourite picnic place. The mountain is also known for its traditional camp of mountaineers, which is organised every year by the Mountaineering Association. A number of activities take place within the camp: walking tours, nourishment in nature, a guide school, lectures, competitions in sporting (free) climbing, mountain cycling, mountain running, orienteering, as well as the Serbian Open Championship in Mountain Orienteering. Rest and relaxation can be found on the peak of Avala at Hotel Avala, the mountain house House of Mitrović and student resort Čarapić’s Elm. At the foot of Avala Mountain are the 1,000 Roses Motel, bed & breakfast Belgrade and restaurants Lipovica, Hunters Meeting and others.

UNAVOIDABLE HISTORY The oldest fortification on the peak of Avala Mountain was erected by the Romans in order to control access to Singidunum, but also to protect their mines on the slopes of Avala, which were only around a hundred metres from the peak. A few centuries later, the Slavs erected a settlement called Žrnov on the same site, with expanded and reinforced walls. During the siege of Constanopole, in 1442, the Turks took over the city and reinforced the eastern and southern part of the fort’s walls. However, just two years later they were forced to return the fortification to the Serbs after the Szeged Truce Accord, which renewed the Dukedom of Serbia and saw the return of Golubac, Kruševac, Novo Brdo and Žrnov.

Following the death of Janoš Hunjadi and Đurađ Branković in 1456, the Ottomans again headed for Serbia and in 1458 they conquered this strategic point in an attempt to conquer Belgrade, which they did not succeed in doing. After that, Hodi Pasha expanded the fortress with an additional wall and a dry canal and made Žrnov a fortification that could be used to annoy the Hungarians occupying Belgrade. The Ottomans called the fortress Havala, which meant disturbance; hence the whole mountain got the name Avala. When Belgrade was conquered in 1521, Žrnov began to lose its strategic importance. There are no precise statistics confirming the final withdrawal of a military presence at Žrnov, but the fortress was deserted supposedly in the 18th century and has been left to nature ever since. The well preserved remains of the city were

Duke Pavle with his entourage tour Avala

blown to smithereens in 1934 to make way for a monument to the soldiers killed in the First World War to be built on the peak of Avala. The monument complex to the Unknown Hero was erected according to the design of the greatest sculptor in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, Ivan Meštrović. King Aleksandar I initiated the building of this monumental construction. The monument was supposed to be a memorial to the victims of the First World War, but the dates inscribed on the monument (1912-1918) show that the monument is also dedicated to those killed in the Balkan Wars of 1912 and 1913. As much as 8,000m³ of black Jablanica marble was used to build this mausoleum. The building is designed in neo-classical style, in the form of a Greek temple. Meštrović’s inspiration was the tomb of Kir II in Pasargad, Persia. The tomb lies on five standing blocks of granite

and is surrounded by caryatides supporting the roof. These eight sculptures symbolise the mothers of soldiers, peoples and regions of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The women are from Šumadija, Panonnia - Vojvodina, Montenegro, Kosovo, Dalmatia, Zagorje, Slovenia and Macedonia. Not far from the mountain’s peak, there is a second monument to a group of Soviet war veterans who perished in an aircraft accident on 19th October, 1964. At the foot of the mountain, in the village of Jajinci, there is a memorial park at a site where the German Army killed around 80,000 people during the Second World War. Due to its rich history and nature, Avala is definitely a must-see tourist spot during anyone’s visit to Belgrade. MILENKO KOVAČEVIĆ photographs: DRAGAN BOSNIĆ, DANILO PETERNEK

Avala panorama

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R A Z G L E D A N J E

A V A L A ,

T A M O

G O R E

–

J U Ž N O

ZAOKRUŽIVANJE PORTRETA GRADA Ovog leta, nakon deset godina od rušenja televizijskog tornja na Avali, simbol Beograda ponovo se „vinuo u nebo.” Kao što na mapi planete Ajfelova kula identifikuje Pariz, Big Ben London, Kremlj Moskvu ili Kip slobode Njujork, tako se sa jedinstvenim, tronožnim televizijskim tornjem svetu predstavljao Beograd.

ri i po decenije Toranj je na vrhu Avale odolevao naletima vetra, zubu vremena, a putnicima pokazivao da se nalaze „na kapiji” glavnog grada. Sa ratnim zvonima 29. aprila 1999. godine došle su i bombe, koje su uništile to remek-delo arhitekture, jedini TV repetitor na svetu koji je za presek imao jednakostranični trougao što je simbolisao srpski tronožac za sedenje. Njega su 1960. godine projektovali arhitekte Uglješa Bogunović i Slobodan Janjić, te konstruktor, akademik Milan Krstić. U to vreme bio je to izuzetan građevinski poduhvat, jer je sa visinom od 202 metra, bio najviše zdanje na Balkanu, a u Parizu je dobio nagradu za najlepši TV toranj u Evropi. Obnova „krova Beograda” bila je mukotrpna i teška, ali upornošću Udruženja novinara Srbije, ideja rekonstrukcije brzo je zaživela. Uklanjanje ostataka porušene građevine počelo je u maju 2005. godine i trajalo dva meseca, a prva cigla na

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temeljima postavljena je 6. februara 2007. godine. Ukupna vrednost obnove procenjena je na oko 8,5 miliona evra. Prema prvim planovima, obnovljeni toranj trebalo je svečano da bude otvoren na 10. godišnjicu njegovog rušenja – 29. aprila 2009. godine. Zbog jakih vetrova je sečenja svečane vrpce odloženo za tri meseca, pa će poslednja antena na vrhu biti postavljena tokom ovog leta. Toranj će imati dva lifta i restoran na 119. metru. Vidikovac za zainteresovane turiste smešten je na 122. metru, a vrh antene nalaziće se na 202,87 metara. – Od kada smo 2003. godine pokrenuli inicijativu da se avalski kolos obnovi, nismo naišli na čoveka koji nije hteo da nas podrži. Više od 500 umetnika, privrednika i građana na različite je načine dalo doprinos tome da simbol prestonice i remek-delo svetske arhitekture ponovo ukrasi Avalu. Novi – stari simbol Beograda imaće dva lifta kojim će posetioci do vrha srpske Ajfelove kule, kako je toranj nazvala slikarka Olja Ivanjicki, moći da stignu za manje od minuta. Kupola, koja će izgledati gotovo isto kao i stara, imaće dva dela. U prvom će se nalaziti ulazni hol, PTT i TV sala. Na narednom nivou biće restoran, a iznad njega vidikovac površine oko 100 kvadratnih metara – objašnjava Miloš – Bato Milatović, inicijator i urednik akcije „Izgradimo toranj na Avali.” Predviđeno je da na svakih 25 metara budu napravljeni izlazi za slučaj opasnosti, koji će voditi ka betonskom stepeništu unutar tornja. Nova građevina moći će da se izbori s najjačim udarima vetra i da odoli čak i jakim zemljotresima. Prema proračunima projektanata, vrh tornja će se pri maksimalnom dejstvu vetra pomerati 60 centimetara, dok će antena „šetati“ najviše do jednog metra. U takvim slučajevima uključuju se alarmi, a liftovi istog sekunda staju.

Iako na prvi pogled identičan prethodnom, novi toranj se gradi na potpuno drugačiji način. Najsavremeniji građevinski materijali i moderna tehnologija učiniće ga gotovo neuništivim. – Za razliku od prethodnog tornja, koji nije bio otporan na potrese tla, novi će moći da se odbrani i od zemljotresa jačine 9,2 stepena Merkalijeve skale. Njegovoj stabilnosti doprinosi i činjenica da su tri noge stabla ukopane u zemlju 8,60 metara. Novo je i to što je vrh tornja građen od nesagorivih materijala i samim tim potpuno bezbedan za buduće posetioce – objašnjava Milatović RAJSKI VRT PLANINE Retko koja metropola u Evropi može se pohvaliti da na samo šesnaestak kilometara udaljenosti od centa grada ima planinu. Avala je visoka 511 m i uzdiže se oko 200 m iznad okolnog talasastog terena. Predstavlja severni kraj šumadijske grede, koja se od Rudnika provlači kroz nisku Šumadiju i predstavlja razvođe između slivova Save i Dunava. Bogata je rudama, a mineral avalit upravo je dobio ime po planini na kojoj je pronađen. Krajem 2007. godine Skupština grada Beograda proglasila je tu planinu za zaštićeno prirodno dobro. Još je knez Miloš 1859. godine doneo odluku da se Avala zagradi i zaštiti, već 1936. godine proglašena je za nacionalni park, a prezidijum Narodne skupštine 1946. godine donosi odluku da bude proglašena za dobro od opšteg značaja. Na zaštićenom području ima oko 600 biljnih vrsta, planina je bogata različitim vrstama ptica i lekovitim biljem, a neke biljke predstavljaju prirodne retkosti, kao što su zanovet, zlatan i zelenika. Već se na oko primećuje da je bogato pokrivena samoniklim drvećem, a jednim delom je pod zasađenom borovom šumom. Zbog takvih odlika omiljeno je

izletište Beograđana, a poznata je i po tradicionalnom taboru planinara, koji se održava svake godine u organizaciji Službe vodiča izleta i pohoda Planinarskog saveza. U okviru tabora izvodi se veći broj aktivnosti: pešačke ture sa obnovom signalizacije, ishrana u prirodi, škola vodiča, predavanja, takmičenja u sportskom (slobodnom) penjanju, planinskom biciklizmu, planinskom trčanju, orijentiringu, te otvoreno prvenstvo Srbije u planinarskoj orijentaciji. Za odmor i relaksaciju na vrhu Avale nalaze se ugostiteljski objekti: hotel Avala, planinarska kuća Mitrovićev dom i studentsko odmaralište Čarapićev brest. U podnožju Avale su: Motel 1000 ruža, Pansion Beograd, restorani Lipovica, Lovački sastanak i drugi. NEIZBEŽNA ISTORIJA Najstarije utvrđenje na vrhu Avale podigli su Rimljani da bi kontrolisali prilaz Singidunumu, ali i da bi zaštitili svoje rudnike koje su imali na obroncima Avale, stotinak metara ispod samog vrha. Nekoliko vekova kasnije Sloveni na istom mestu podižu svoje naselje Žrnova sa proširenim i ojačanim zidovima. U vreme opsade Carigrada 1442. godine Turci zauzimaju grad, ojačavši mu tom prilikom istočni i južni deo bedema. Međutim već 1444. godine bivaju primorani Segedinskim primirjem na obnovu srpske despotovine i vraćanje utvrđenja Srbima. Među vraćenim gradovima, pored Golupca, Kruševca i Novog Brda, našao se i Žrnov. Posle smrti Janoša Hunjadija i Đurđa Brankovića 1456. godine Osmanlije ponovo kreću na Srbiju i 1458. godine zauzimaju tu stratešku kotu u pokušaju da osvoje Beograd, što im ne polazi za rukom. Posle toga Hodi paša proširuje tvrđavu dodatnim bedemom i suvim šancem, stvorivši od Žrnova tvrđavu za uznemiravanje Beograda, koji se nalazio u mađarskim rukama. Od te uloge tvrđave, odnosno imena Havala, što znači smetnja, koji su joj Osmanlije nadenule, cela planina je dobila ime Avala. Sa padom Beograda 1521. godine Žrnov počinje da gubi svoj strateški značaj. Ne zna se do kada se tačno u Žrnovu nalazila vojna posada, ali se pretpostavlja da je tvrđava napuštena u XVIII veku, i od tada je prepuštena zubu vremena. Dosta dobro očuvani ostaci grada su 1934. godine dignuti u vazduh da bi se na vrhu Avale podigao spomenik vojnicima poginulim u Prvom svetskom ratu. Kompleks spomenika Neznanom junaku podignut je

po nacrtima najvećeg vajara Kraljevine Jugoslavije Ivana Meštrovića. Gradnju tog monumentalnog zdanja inicirao je kralj Aleksandar I Karađorđević. Spomenik je trebalo da bude memorijal žrtvama Prvog svetskog rata. Datumi ispisani na spomeniku, 1912-1918, označavaju da se spomenik odnosi i na poginule u Balkanskim ratovima 1912. i 1913. godine. Za izgradnju mauzoleja iskorišćeno je čak 8.000 kubnih metara crnog jablaničkog mermera. Građevina je projektovana u neoklasičnom stilu u formi grčkog hrama, a kao inspiraciju Meštrović je koristio grobnicu Kira II u Pasargadu u Persiji. Grob leži na pet uspravnih blokova granita i okružen je karijatidama koje nose krov. Tih osam skulptura simbolizuju majke vojnika, narode i regije

Kraljevine Jugoslavije. To su: Šumadinka, Panonka – Vojvođanka, Crnogorka, Kosovka, Dalmatinka, Zagorka, Slovenka i Makedonka. Nedaleko od vrha planine nalazi se spomenik sovjetskim ratnim veteranima koji su tu doživeli avionski udes 19. oktobra 1964. godine. U podnožju, u selu Jajinci, nalazi se Spomen-park na mestu gde su Nemci, tokom Drugog svetskog rata, streljali oko 80.000 ljudi. Kao mesto bogato istorijom i prirodom, Avala je i turistička tačka koju tokom posete Beogradu svakako treba obići. MILENKO KOVAČEVIĆ fotografije: DRAGAN BOSNIĆ, DANILO PETERNEK

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

Više od 50 godina profesionalnog iskustva u obradi i trgovini dijamantima utkano je u Izraelski Dijamantski Centar (IDC) koji je, pod ovim imenom, pre 23 godine osnovala porodica Tavisal. U Beogradu, IDC ima svoju ekskluzivne juvelirnice u kojima mogu da se kupe kolekcije i dijamantski nakit ove svetski priznate kompanije. Osnivač IDC-a, Avi Tavisal član je Izraelske berze dijamanata od 1978. godine. Pored toga što se kao osnivač IDC-a dokazao kao vrhunski trgovac dijamantima, on je i vrstan stručnjak za obradu koji vlada svim fazama oblikovanja dijamanta - od poliranja sirovog dragulja do stvaranja vrhunskog nakita.

revolucionarni izum baziran na primeni 3D kompjuterskih tehnologija. Ova tehnologija promovisana je u prvoj seriji ovako izrađenog nakita – pod imenom ORA kolekcija.

Avi Tavisal, zajedno sa svojim timom, spada u retke eksperte koji umeju da prepoznaju estetske mogućnosti koje pruža dijamant i tako svojim kupcima stvara široku lepezu izbora dragulja.

IDC se razvila u međunarodnu kompaniju specijalizovanu za proizvodnju i trgovinu dijamantima sa danas impozantnom internacionalnom mrežom predstavništava i prodavnica. Kompanija IDC prednjači u primeni najsavremenijih tehnologija u proizvodnji nakita. Kao pri-mer navodimo nedavni

Rezultat rada na primeni novih tehnologije je blistava dijamantska slagalica. Sjaj zgusnutog, vrhunski oblikovanog kamena, sastavljenog od komadića savršeno uklopljenih manjih dijamanata, takvog je intenziteta da deluje kao da nosite dragulj od najmanje jednog i po karata. Dijamantska slagalica ugrađuje se u elegantno oblikovane ogrlice, priveske, prstenje... Izraelski dijamantski centar je osnivač beogradskog Maestro Jewelersa.

Prva prodavnica Maestro Jewelersa otvorena je u hotelu Intercontinental 1993. godine. Maestro Jewelers je tada, kao i sada, nudio isključivo vrhunske brendove – dijamantski nakit IDC-a, satove najprestižnijih svetskih kompanija – Vacheron Constantin, IWC Schaffhausen, Breitling, Ebel, Mont Blanc, Zenith, Uliysse Nardin, Raymond Weil, Chopard, Audemars Piguet… Strpljiv rad uložen u imidž i privlačenje klijentele dao je prave plodove, pa je IDC otvorio i drugu juvelirnicu, koja se nalazi na jednoj od najboljih i najprometnijih lokacija u Beogradu, na Trgu Republike u Kolarčevoj ulici broj 4. Radnja je, kako i dolikuje, otmena, a nakit i satovi su izloženi u skladu sa standardima svakog pojedinačnog proizvođača. Pored kolekcija nakita IDC-a, u ovoj elegantnoj radnji možete naći i najnovije kolekcije svetski poznatih proizvođača nakita poput Choparda i DeGrisogona.

Gospodin Avi Tavisal izabrao je gospođu Anaat Pišot da u lokalnim uslovima ostvari visoke kompanijske standarde i istraje u stvaranju imidža i privlačenju klijentele u Srbiji.

*Hotel Continental, Vladimira Popovića 10, Tel./Fax: (381 11) 31114 59, 311 33 33/ext.721 *IDC, Kolarčeva 4, Tel: (381 11) 303 30 91 • maestro@eunet.rs , www.maestro.rs

N I K I TA M I L I V O J E V I Ć , T H E AT R E D I R E C TO R

TO BE THE SAME MEANS TO CHANGE I came to some sort of my own formula in which I believe and that seems true, at least in my example. Actually, to be the same in one’s own way means that you constantly need to change. To remain one’s own self, a man constantly needs to change, never to repeat. It sounds like a paradox, but it works. That really is a more difficult road, but I find it easier that way. My colleagues in Bitef, for example, learned how I think in their own way... Once I asked for a tub for some play, and they didn’t feel like carrying it on the stage for every rehearsal, they got the idea to tell me it had already “played” in some play. They knew in advance I would give it up then! That’s their story that they later told me and now they’re retelling it today as an anecdote.

ikita Milivojević is a director whose plays have been telling us the stories of his own mythology, created over a long time, for the last twenty years. Naturally, for us to take part in all that as spectators, we need to have a common denominator; a universal key for identification. If we recall plays like The Mask, Life is a Dream, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, In the Hold, Banović Strahinja, The Threepenny Opera, Karolina Nojber, Return, et al, we will soon understand that the key lies in the emotion - the one where we recognise beauty and truth. The latest play directed by Nikita Milivojević, Winter Gardens, begins by showing statistical data of our reality: around 700,000 educated young people left Serbia during the wars of the last decade of the 20th century; the play brings us life itself, lost in translation, made senseless with chat and the internet, jagged with failures and absence; destroyed in an attempt to live a normal life; with dreams that are killed. Tell us three things – pictures, scenes, associations, etc. – that best portray Serbia for you? - They are the same things that I mention in the play Winter Gardens: the snow, people queuing... At one of the rehearsals, Miljan added the beautiful girls. Really, the majority of foreigners notice the beauty of women walking down our streets. Winter Gardens is a somewhat personal, perhaps too personal, play, because it touches a period of my life in various cities, especially in Greece. It has a sort of nostalgia and I’d say some special kind of sadness... The associations that you asked me about are more mythical, archetypal pictures that I often incorporate through my plays. For example, there is always a bit of snow. Why snow?

- Seeing snow falling was something awfully exciting for me as a child... And the snow would sometimes fall so heavily that it took weeks for the whole surrounding landscape to change... That feeling that snow can change everything; that it can make the whole reality charming, exciting, different, left an obvious impression on me. Even today, the whiteness of snow makes me believe that things have been put in order, tucked in and rounded up. There is some special purity and poetry in those pictures. The third association in the play is people queuing? - Yes, because that’s humiliating. Unfortunately, we have not been able to get rid of those pictures for decades now. In Winter Gardens we can feel that sort of humiliation in one sentence of a young woman who lives somewhere faraway and while everything around her is collapsing for this or that reason, she says: “I only wanted a normal life.” You go where you feel well, which again is a natural thing. However, it seems that the characters in the play left here and did not arrive at the place that they’d wanted. If that’s the road to happiness, I don’t feel they are happy there... - All of that is very difficult to explain... I think that many people can say the exact same sentence: I only wanted a normal life. I can tell you that that’s the case with me too. But every story is special and has some sort of logic of its own; its own reasons why it is like that. Every story has its own truth... The real question is why people have been departing from here, constantly, for centuries... And aside from that, there is some sort of tragic continuity of departures in our history. Something has to be wrong with a country that people are constantly leaving. Crnjanski and Andrić wrote about that.

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

I will paraphrase a sentence of Andrić’s, which is also the motto of the play: ‘Why is my thought expressed here worth much less than the same thought expressed in London or Paris?’ - The play starts with suitcases... the stage is filled with suitcases. I am constantly related to suitcases. My first play in the Belgrade Drama Theatre started with suitcases being carried out on the stage. I wasn’t aware then that the suitcase would become some sort of sign in my life, that I would constantly drag it with me. Among other things, that’s what makes Winter Gardens personal... From my favourite writers – Andrić and Crnjanski – and their quotations, to the people I’ve met around the world in recent years; people whose lives are not easy but still they would not return. You should hear their stories... A friend of mine who is about to get a PhD in Paris told me recently that she could not live here because she thinks our criteria are wrong. And you start with that in school, with a mistaken way of thinking, where children are not prompted to develop any critical thinking at all... As if we don’t need people who think with their own mind! It seems that subservience has been cherished here for decades as a virtue aiding success. And it’s like that today. I know well how difficult life is for my friend in Paris, but still she will remain there... With your first feature film, which we expect soon, you remain on the same theme. - It is estimated that during the wars of the last decade of the 20th century, around 700,000 educated young people left Serbia. Today, Serbia is among the top five countries with the oldest population in the world, with a mortality rate that’s much higher than birth rate and is the first in Europe when it comes to the number of asylum seekers. This is a serious topic that is worthy of discussion. In a way, it could be referred to as our national tragedy. To lose

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

ten per cent of the population in their prime age is nothing less than a national tragedy. Dušan Miklja brought me something that was actually a proposal for a theatre play and it had one scene, I could even say one sentence, that attracted me. A girl from Belgrade during the bombing is trying to get her boyfriend to New York and that, of course, was impossible during the bombardment. And then she gets the idea of how to do it: her sister will get married instead of her, so her boyfriend, her future husband, will get the papers and come. That’s almost shocking for me. In the feature she is watching a ‘live stream’ of her own wedding on the streets of New York on her cell phone. Sad, joyful, surreal... The

nicest thing is that the event is true! This really happened. I asked Dušan where he had found this story and it turned out that all this happened to his daughter. There, that’s the scene that prompted me to do this film. I myself don’t know how (by some lucky coincidence) I guess, everything I had to say about myself, others, society, politics, war, love, I managed to do through my plays. It was sort of my way of communicating with reality - this is what you said in one of your interviews. That outlook requires something we refer to as the courage of one’s convictions. In what way are we determined by what we believe in and what is it that you believe in? - What is it that I manage to believe in, after all: that’s the question I often get to ask myself. I believe that when you do something seriously it gets you somewhere, it doesn’t get lost. If I didn’t believe that, I don’t know how I’d manage to survive around here. That’s not minor faith these days, because it seems to me that a lot of things have lost their meaning. Words, for instance, have become just a bunch of senseless chattering; we’ve become some chattering civilisation and that bunch of words has no content whatsoever. Words need to get their meaning back. As if some strange epidemic of stupidity has spread around. That’s why I think that my ‘minor faith’ is important. It holds me. And theatre has helped me in all that, because it is there to bring back meaning to some important stuff.

The premiere of Winter Gardens in Venice

Generally, it is impossible to trick beauty. Aesthetics are very important to your plays. - Those who taught me how to direct also taught me to have very high demands. Now I am teaching others the same... In relation to that, I recently read an unusual writing: in a meeting in Moscow in 1551, a 100-chapter code was passed with a rule book for icon painters and what they should be like... Many of their characteristics are advisable for directors, but I find the last chapter most interesting; it says that if a painter hides his God-given talent and does not reveal important things to his student – he will be convicted with God-imposed permanent torture... I kind of liked that a lot, that’s why I’m mentioning this.

You said that you always carry your world with you. What is that world like? Who is Nikita Milivojević? - Ivo Andrić could help me out with that again. In his book Signs by the Roadside, he writes: I read so much and I think so much, but all that reading does not make me a better man, nor does it make me know more. So I too, after all, sometimes ask myself – who I really am. How I see myself and how others see me? That story, in fact, is interesting if the answer is indefinite. We are the ones who make our road serious or not. To be consistent when creating one’s artistic road, fairly and truthfully, with a feeling that you’re not taking compromises, particularly not badly calculated compromises, but probe oneself and others deeper and deeper – that’s the essence of that road.

Directors need to carry a bit of godliness in themselves – “the gift of the creator of entirety” for him to be able to create one whole world.

DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ photographs: DANILO PETERNEK

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

N I K I T A

M I L I V O J E V I Ć ,

P O Z O R I Š N I

R E D I T E L J

BITI ISTI ZNAČI - MENJATI SE Došao sam do nekakve vlastite formule u koju verujem, i koja je, bar na mom primeru, izgleda tačna. Ustvari, biti isti, na svoj način znači da stalno morate da se menjate. Da bi ostao svoj, čovek stalno mora da se menja, nikako ponavlja. Zvuči paradoksalno, ali funkcioniše. To realno jeste teži put, ali je meni lakše tako. U Bitefu su recimo moje kolege na svoj način naučile kako razmišljam … Jednom sam za predstavu tražio neku kadu, a kako je njih mrzelo da je svaki put donose na probu, jer je ogromna i teška, dosetili su se i rekli su mi da je već „glumila” u nekoj predstavi. Unapred su znali da ću odmah odustati od nje! To je inače njihova priča, oni su mi je kasnije ispričali i danas je prepričavaju kao anegdotu.

ikita Milivojević je reditelj koji nam iz predstave u predstavu, evo već dvadeset godina, u suštini pripoveda sopstvenu, dugo građenu mitologiju. Naravno, da bi smo i mi kao gledaoci učestvovali u svemu tome, mora postojati zajednički imenitelj, ključ za prepoznavanje, univerzalna kategorija. Ako se prisetimo predstava Maska, Život je san, San letnje noći, U potpalublju, Banović Strahinja, Opera za tri groša, Karolina Nojber, Povratak.., shvatićemo vrlo brzo da je taj ključ - u emociji. Onoj kojom prepoznajemo lepotu i istinu. Najnovija predstava Nikite Milivojevića Zimske bašte polazi od statističkih podataka naše stvarnosti: tokom ratova poslednje decenije 20. veka Srbiju je napustilo oko 700.000 mladih

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

obrazovanih ljudi.., a donosi nam život sam, izgubljen u prevodu, obesmišljen četom i internetom, razuđen promašajima i odsustvom. Iskorenjen u pokušaju da se živi normalno - ubijenih snova. U, recimo, tri odrednice, asocijacije, slike.., šta god – šta je za vas Srbija? - Iste one koje sam pomenuo u predstavi Zimske bašte : Sneg, redovi ... Miljan je na nekoj probi dodao i lepe devojke. Zaista, većina stranaca primeti lepotu žena na našim ulicama. Zimske bašte su negde dosta lična, možda i preterano lična predstava, jer dodiruju period mog života u raznim gradovima, posebno

Grčku. U njoj ima nostalgije ,a rekao bih i neke posebne tuge ... Asocijacije za koje ste me pitali su pre mitske, arhetipske slike koje često provlačim kroz svoje predstave. Recimo, uvek ima malo snega. Zašto baš sneg? - Slika snega koji pada u detinjstvu je bila nešto strašno uzbudljivo za mene ... A snegovi su nekada umeli toliko da napadaju, da se nedeljama potpuno promeni ceo pejzaž oko vas ... Taj osećaj da sneg sve promeni, da čitavu stvarnost učini očaravajućom, uzbudljivom, drugačijom, ostavio je očigledno jak utisak na mene. I danas ta belina snega čini da poverujem da su stvari dovedene u red, nekako ušuškane i zaokružene. Ima neke posebne čistote, pa i poetičnosti u tim slikama. Treća asocijacija u predstavi su redovi? - Da, jer su ponižavajući. Nažalost, tih slika redova ne možemo već decenijama da se oslobodimo. U Zimskim baštama tu vrstu ponižavajućeg osećanja možemo pronaći u rečenici jedne mlade žene koja je tamo negde daleko i dok se sve oko nje iz ovih ili onih razloga urušava, ona kaže: „Ja sam htela samo normalan život“. Čovek ide tamo gde se oseća dobro, što je, opet, sasvim prirodno. Međutim, čini se da skoro svi likovi u predstavi, odlazeći odavde, nisu stigli tamo gde su hteli. Ako je to put ka sreći, nemam osećaj da su srećni... - Sve to je vrlo teško objasniti ... Milsim da bi mnogi ljudi mogli reći upravo tu rečenicu : „Ja sam hteo samo normalan život“.. . Znam po sebi. Ali svaka priča je posebna, ima neku svoju logiku, svoje razloge zašto je upravo takva , svoju istinu ... Pravo pitanje je u stvari zašto ljudi nepresatno odlaze , vekovima... Pri tom postoji neki tragični kontinuitet odlazaka u našoj istoriji. Nešto nije u redu sa zemljom iz koje se stalno odlazi . O tome su pisali i Crnjanski , i Andrić ... Parafraziraću jednu rečenicu Andrića, koja je i moto predstave: Zašto da moja misao izrečena ovde, vredi mnogo manje od iste takve misli iskazane u Londonu ili Parizu...? - Predstava počinje koferima ... scena je puna kofera. Ja sam neprestano u tim koferima. Moja prva predstava u Beogradskom dramskom je počinjala iznošenjem kofera na scenu. Tada nisam znao da će mi taj kofer i u životu biti kao nekakav znak, da ću ga neprestano vući sa sobom. Između ostalog i zbog toga su Zimske bašte lične ... Od mojih omiljenih pisaca, Andrića, Crnjanskog, njihovih citata, do svih tih naših ljudi koje sam sretao poslednjih godina po svetu, koji teško žive, ali se ipak ne bi vratili. Njih treba da čujete... Moja prijateljica koja treba sada da doktorira u Parizu, kaže mi nedavno da ne bi mogla da živi ovde jer smatra da su kod nas svi kriterijumi pogrešni. A to počinje još u školi pogrešnim načinom mišljenja, gde se deci uopšte ne razvija bilo kakvo kritičko mišljenje ... Nama kao da ne trebaju ljudi koji misle svojom glavom! Ovde se decenijama neguje poniznost kao neophodna vrlina da uspeš. I danas je tako. Ja znam kako moja prijateljica teško živi u Parizu, pa ipak i dalje ostaje tamo ... Vašim prvim igranim filmom, koji uskoro očekujemo, ostajete i dalje u toj temi. - Procene su da je tokom ratova poslednje decenije 20. veka Srbiju napustilo oko 700.000 mladih obrazovanih ljudi. Danas je Srbija među pet zemalja sa najstarijim stanovništvom na svetu, sa daleko većom stopom umiranja nego rađanja i prva je po broju azilanata u Evropi. To je ozbiljna tema, i zaslužuje da se o njoj govori. Na neki način mogli bi je nazvati nacionalnom tragedijom. Izgubiti oko deset posto stanovništva u najboljim godinama je upravo to i ništa drugo. Dušan Miklja mi je doneo nešto što je u stvari bio predlog za pozorišnu

predstavu , a tu je postojala scena, mogao bih čak da kažem gotovo jedna rečenica, koja me je privukla. Devojka iz Beograda u vreme bombardovanja pokušava svog dečka da dovede u Njujork, a to je, naravno, dok traje bombardovanje, nemoguće. A onda se seti kako to da izvede , tako što će njena rođena sestra da se uda umesto nje, i na taj će način njen dečko, odnosno budući muž da dobije papire i dođe . To mi je bilo gotovo potresno. U filmu ona gleda nešto kao direktni prenos svoga venčanja na ulici New Yorka , na svom mobilnom telefonu . Tužno, veselo, nadrealno... Ono što je najlepše u svemu jeste da je događaj istinit ! To se zaista dogodilo. Pitao sam Dušana gde je našao tu priču, ispostavilo se da se sve to dogodilo njegovoj ćerki. Eto, to je scena zbog koje sam krenuo u film. Ne znam ni sam kako, nekim srećnim slučajem valjda, sve što sam imao da kažem o sebi, drugima, društvu, politici, ratu, ljubavi, uspevao sam kroz svoje predstave. To je bio neki moj način da komuniciram sa stvarnošću – rekli ste u jednom razgovoru. Za to je potrebno nešto što zovemo hrabrost sopstvenih uverenja. A kako nas to u šta verujemo određuje, šta je to u šta Vi verujete? - Šta je to u šta posle svega uspevam da verujem, je pitanje koje i sam sebi često postavljam. Verujem da kada radite nešto ozbiljno, to ipak stigne negde, do nekog drugog, ne izgubi se. Kada ne bih imao to uverenje, ne znam kako bih ovde uopšte bivstvovao. To danas nije mala vera. Jer, sve više mi se čini da je mnogo toga izgubilo smisao. Reči su recimo postale gomila brbljanja bez smisla , postali smo nekakva brbljiva civilazacija, a sva ta gomila reči je potpuno bez sadržine. Rečima ponovo trebalo vratiti smisao. Kao da je neka čudna epidemija gluposti zavladala. Zato mislim da je ta moja „mala vera ’’ važna. Ona me drži. A pozorište mi je dosta u svemu tome pomoglo, jer ono postoji između ostalog i zbog toga da bi se nekim važnim stvarima u životu vratio smisao. Lepotu je, čini se, generalno nemoguće podvaliti. Estetika je veoma bitna u Vašim predstavama. - Te vrlo visoke zahteve preneli su mi oni koji su me učili režiji, a ja to sada prenosim drugima ... S tim u vezi, nedavno sam pročitao jedan neobičan zapis: 1551. Na Saboru u Moskvi donet je zbornik u 100 glava, gde se za zoografe određuje pravilnik – kakav ikonopisac mora da bude i sl... Mnoge osobine, inače, veoma su uputne za reditelje, ali mi je najzanimljivija bila poslednja glava, u kojoj se kaže da ako neko od živopisaca svoj talenat, koji mu je Bog dao, sakrije i učeniku ne oda ono što je bitno - takav će biti osuđen od boga na večnu muku ...To mi se nešo veoma dopalo, pa zato pominjem. Reditelj u sebi, kažu, mora da ima pomalo božansko svojstvo – “dar tvorca celine” da bi stvorio čitav jedan svet. Rekli ste da svoj svet uvek nosite sa sobom. Kakav je to svet? Ko je Nikita Milivojević? - Tu bi ponovo mogao da pomogne Ivo Andrić, koji negde u ’’Znakovima’’ kaže: Toliko čitam i toliko razmišljam, a od sveg tog čitanja, niti sam bolji čovek, niti znam više. Tako se nekako i ja ponekad, posle svega pitam, ko sam tačno. Kako to sebe vidim, kako me vide drugi? Ta priča je, ustvari, zanimljiva ako nema definitivan odgovor. Mi sami pravimo svoj put ozbiljnim ili ne. Dosledno graditi svoj umetnički put, pošteno i iskreno, sa osećanjem da ne pravite kompromise, posebno ne one loše, kalkulantske, sve dublje sondirati prema sebi i drugima – to je suština tog puta. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ fotografije: DANILO PETERNEK

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

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Ivo Andrić

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Branko Ćopić

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L I T E R A R Y

G U I D E

T H R O U G H

B E L G R A D E

ART BUYING LIFE

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

When a twenty-six-year-old Rastko Petrović recalled the times of his childhood and early youth, during which he and his home country had both grown, he wrote about himself in the third person: ''He started to grow dreadfully and incomprehensibly terrified of the end of life. He thought that if he wrote poetry it would not be to express himself or be successful, but only to enable his life to be extended through future glory upon his physical demise. Art to him was about buying life, somewhere over the border of the understandable. Oh, to be mentioned by anyone after a thousand years.'' Fifty years after his death, we are mentioning him...

astko Petrović was registered in the Birth Register of the old Temple of Saint Marko (Hram Svetog Marka) on 16th May, 1897, as the thirteenth child of the head of the local tax administration, Dimitrije a.k.a. Mita and his wife, teacher Mileva. The Petrović family lived at 32 Ratarska Street in the Palilula distrcit, in a house with a small garden where a special atmosphere prevailed and where children, talented at painting, music and literature, were nurtured into well-educated people loyal to their home country. Educated abroad, the Petrović children were broad-minded and advanced in their views of the world. Respectable artists and intellectuals gathered in their house. The eldest of them, Nadežda, became a great Serbian painter; Anđelija, inspired by the unfair annexation of Bosnia & Herzegovina, wrote about this to Leo Tolstoy, who later wrote a text inspired by this theme, and sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who fell in love with her and immortalised her beauty in the caryatids adorning the Monument to the Unknown Hero at Avala Mountain; while the youngest of the siblings, Rastko, became one of the greatest poets that Serbia has ever known. At the beginning of the 20th century, a small, weak Serbia was experiencing some dramatic events: the May 1903 coup d'état and the murder of King Aleksandar I Obrenović, the ascension to the throne of the first king of the Karađorđević dynasty, protests over Austro-Hungary’s annexation of Bosnia & Herzegovina, followed by the Balkan Wars and finally the First World War, which was to bring a lot of suffering and take many lives. The young Rastko would lose half of his family in those years. His father died in 1911; his mother in 1912; his sisters Anđa (1914) and Nadežda in 1915, who died of typhoid while volunteering as a nurse in Valjevo; his other sister, Dragica, died in Munich, where she was studying medicine, while his brother Vladimir died during the withdrawal of the Serbian Army across Albania. The suffering did not end there: Rastko would endure the same Golgotha through Albania with his sisters Milica, Ljubica and Zora, during which he would encounter a darker side of humanity, one where all social values cease to exist in what is known as a battle for survival. Only then would he start writing poems.

A Watercolour from 1923

CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH His time in France – first in Nice, where he finished the Serbian grammar school, and later in Paris, where he studied law at Sorbonne and attended

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G U I D E

T H R O U G H

B E L G R A D E

The Petrović family, 1900 lectures in the history of art and psychology – would ease the pain of his wounded soul, and reveal tenderness shown in a number of poems published whilst he was in Corfu. The tragic experience of crossing Albania would never be erased, merely suppressed only to resurface later in poems, such as Big Friend, or his travel book and his largest work, the novel Day Six, which was published posthumously. With eyes, heart and soul wide open, he absorbed the energy Paris emitted following what was to date the biggest slaughter of the war. He was a regular guest at brasseries La Rotonde, La Coupole and La Closerie des Lilas, where he spent time with the creators of modern art expressions and trends in literature and painting. He befriended André Gide, Tristan Tzara, Paul Éluard, Guillaume Apollinaire, as well as our Dušan Matić, Aleksandar Vučo and Milo Milunović. Being a son of Slavic descent, he started researching the culture of old Slavs to find its forerunners, ''a collective creative spirit and universal forms'', the way Parisian modern artists had done while researching Gothicism, Romanticism, Germanic myths, ancient Greece and Egypt, or seeking justification for modern expression. He thought that old Slavs could become the focus of interest for Western Europe, just like the peoples of Africa, Oceania or the Middle East... In Paris, inspired by Slavic

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

legends, he wrote The Burlesque of Lord Perun, the God of Thunder (Burleska Gospodina Peruna, Boga Groma) and the largest number of poems from his collection Revelation (Otkrovenje), which is considered by some as the prerequisite book of modern Serbian poetry. After earning a lawyer’s diploma, Rastko returned to Belgrade and in 1921 publishes The Burlesque in the edition Albatross, edited by Stanislav Vinaver. The following year his Revelation collection was published. Writer Isidora Sekulić, who knew how to recognise true value among young poets, wrote about the author of this collection of poetry: ''Rastko Petrović is a powerful young ship that has hoisted its sails and dropped its oars, winded its pulleys and is now flying like a seagull and cutting like an arrow...'' Many Serbian artists went to France to seek an education, before returning to the country and conveying the French influence on Serbian culture. This trend was undisputed even before the First World War and it only grew more pronounced after the war. However, before Rastko appeared on the scene the identities of Serbian artists had somehow been suffocated, while he managed to remain true to himself. RETURN TO HOMELAND After returning to his hometown, ''a small, grief-stricken settlement'', he was under the impression “that all the houses in the capital city are trying to grow. Construction sites everywhere...'' and in accidental encounters with people and old pals he would reveal the need for a new life. He went to taverns, met fellow poets, bathed in the River Sava... and he also published poems in the magazines Zenith, Serbian Literary Herald, Critique, Thoughts and Roads. He started publishing literary and fine art criticisms, brought a large number of art

books, magazines and catalogues to Belgrade and, most importantly, brought the awareness that was most explicitly expressed by Guillaume Apollinaire, the author of the book Cubist Painters - considered by some as the gospel of modern art - that ''without poets and artists, the most sublime ideas that people glean from the universe would soon... disappear. Everything would sink into chaos.'' To Rastko, poetry, painting and sculpture were equally important. He inherited his talent for drawing and painting from his father, which provided a good basis for successful and grounded art criticism and, alongside lessons in general culture, the knowledge of painting techniques and a clear vision of artistic trends. In time, Rastko would become one of the most influential fine art critics of the Belgrade art scene. In the meantime, he would also become a civil servant. TRAVELS – AN ATTEMPT TO BREAK THROUGH TO INFINITY During his twenty-year-long diplomatic career, Rastko served in Rome for two years, first in the Vatican and then in the Rome mission, but he spent his longest period in the United States of America. As a diplomat, he went on official trips to London, Paris, Düsseldorf, Köln and Venice. By the autumn of 1935 he was appointed consul in Chicago. During all those years, Rastko travelled as much as he could. His need to travel was best described by Stanislav Vinaver, who was close to Rastko both in terms of age and understanding of poetry and life. Vinaver wrote: ''...Rastko felt himself mostly as a traveller. That symbol was dearest to him. A traveller is constantly discovering something. A traveller has never reached his destination; nothing is constant for him: after a journey, comes the next journey...'' Journeys were to him like art; an attempt ''to break through to infinity''. Observations and travel notes are left behind those journeys. He always took with him a sketch pad, his painting tools and a camera to ensure his journeys would be recorded with all means so that the experience could ''live simultaneously everywhere and for ever, like some sort of third dimension related to infinity and eternity.'' Rastko in Belgrade, Kalemegdan – Lower Town

A watercolour from 1921

ROAD TO ENDLESSNESS When a twenty-six-year-old Rastko Petrović recalled the times of his childhood and early youth, during which he and his home country had both grown, he wrote about himself in the third person: “He started to grow dreadfully and incomprehensibly terrified of the end of life. He thought that if he wrote poetry it would not be to express himself or be successful, but only to enable his life to be extended through future glory upon his physical demise. Art to him was about buying life, somewhere over the border of the understandable. Oh, to be mentioned by anyone after a thousand years.'' Rastko died in Washington D.C. fifty years ago, in his dream... He died just as he’d written in his early poem Full Moon (Pun Mesec): ''This is how we are going to die: without a sound, quietly, peacefully, (In the quiet silver night, on the sleepy lake, the Death canoe will sail away).'' The poet’s ashes were laid in the family’s eternal home, where the whole Petrović family rested under the marble obelisk. Rastko is there, resting in peace for sure as his wish has been fulfilled: the art that he created has made him eternal. JOVO ANĐIĆ

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K N J I Ž E V N I

V O D I Č

K R O Z

B E O G R A D

UMETNOST KAO KUPOVINA ŽIVOTA

Kada se Rastko Petrović kao dvadesetšestogodišnjak sećao vremena detinjstva i rane mladosti, tokom kojih su rasli i on i njegova otadžbina, pisao je o sebi u trećem licu: „Počeo se strahovito i nepojmljivo užasavati od kraja života. Pojmio je da ako piše pesme to nije zato da bi se izrazio, niti da bi imao uspeha, već jedino da bi se budućom slavom mogao produžiti i posle fizičkog umiranja. Umetnost je bila za njega kupovanje života negde preko granica pojmljivog. O, biti od ma kog spomenut posle hiljadu godina.” Pedeset godina posle njegove smrti mi ga spominjemo...

knjigu rođenih starog hrama svetog Marka Rastko Petrović upisan je 16. maja 1897. godine kao trinaesto dete šefa poreske uprave Dimitrija – Mite i učiteljice Mileve. Porodica Petrović živela je u Ratarskoj 32 na Paliluli, u kući sa baštom, gde je vladala posebna atmosfera i gde su se deca, talentovana za slikarstvo, muziku ili književnost, formirala u obrazovane i rodoljubive osobe. Školovani u inostranstvu, imali su široke poglede i napredna shvatanja. U njihovom domu okupljao se ugledan umetnički i intelektualni svet. Nadežda, najstarija od njih, postala je velika srpska slikarka. Njena sestra Anđelija, podstaknuta nepravednom aneksijom Bosne i Hercegovine, pisala je o njoj Lavu Tolstoju, a on posle o tome napisao jedan tekst. Vajar Ivan Meštrović,

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

koji se u nju zaljubio, ovekovečio je njenu lepotu u karijatidama na spomeniku Neznanom junaku na Avali, dok je Rastko, najmlađi od njih, postao jedan od najvećih srpskih pesnika. Već početkom dvadesetog veka mala i slaba Srbija počela je da preživljava dramatične događaje – Majski prevrat i ubistvo kralja Aleksandra Obrenovića, dolazak na presto prvog kralja iz dinastije Karađorđevića, demonstracije povodom aneksije Bosne i Hercegovine, potom su usledili balkanski ratovi i najzad ulazak u Prvi svetski rat, koji će doneti mnogo patnji i odneti mnoge živote. Dečaku Rastku tokom tih godina porodica će biti prepolovljena. Otac je umro 1911. godine, majka 1912, sestra Anđa 1914, Nadežda 1915. godine

od pegavog tifusa kao dobrovoljna bolničarka u Valjevu, Dragica kao studentkinja medicine u Minhenu, a brat Vladimir gine pri povlačenju srpske vojske preko Albanije. Patnjama tu nije kraj, i on će poći na golgotu kroz Albaniju, sa sestrama Milicom, Ljubicom i Zorom, tokom koje je upoznao mračniju ljudsku stranu, kada su u borbi za preživljavanje prestali da važe svi društveni zakoni. Tada je počeo da piše pesme. DETINJSTVO I MLADOST Boravak u Francuskoj, najpre u Nici, gde je završio srpsku gimnaziju, a potom u Parizu, gde je na Sorboni studirao pravo i slušao predavanja iz istorije umetnosti i psihologije, biće pravi melem za njegovu ranjenu dušu, čiju će tananost pokazati objavljivanjem većeg broja pesama još tokom boravka na Krfu. Tragično iskustvo prelaska Albanije neće biti izbrisano, već samo potisnuto, da bi kasnije izronilo u nekoj od pesama, poput poeme Veliki drug, ili putopisima, a potom u njegovom najobimnijem delu, romanu Dan šesti, objavljenom tek nakon njegove smrti. Širom otvorenih očiju, srca i duše, on je upijao energiju koju je Pariz, nakon do tada najveće ratne klanice, isijavao. Redovno je odlazio na Monparnas, u kafane „Rotond“, „Kupol” i „Klozeri de Lila”, gde se družio sa tvorcima novih umetničkih pogleda i pravaca u književnosti i slikarstvu. Družio se i sa Andreom Židom, Tristanom Carom, Polom Elijarom, Apolinerom, Supoom i našim Dušanom Matićem, Aleksandrom Vučom, Milom Milunovićem. Kao sin naroda slavjanskog počeo je da istražuje kulturu Starih Slovena ne bi li u njoj pronašao preteče, „jedan kolektivni stvaralački duh i univerzalne oblike”, onako kako su to radili pariski moderni umetnici posežući za gotikom, romanikom, germanskim mitovima, Grčkom, Egiptom, tražeći opravdanje za moderni izraz. Mislio je da bi i Stari Sloveni mogli postati predmet interesovanja zapadne Evrope baš kao narodi Afrike, Okeanije, Bliskog istoka... U Parizu je o slovenskim legendama napisao „Burlesku Gospodina Peruna Boga Groma” i Perast, sketch from 1922 najveći broj pesama za zbirku „Otkrovenje”, koju neki smatraju programskom knjigom moderne srpske poezije. Posle sticanja diplome pravnika, vratio se u Beograd, gde je 1921. godine objavio „Burlesku” u ediciji „Albatros“, koju je uređivao Stanislav Vinaver, a naredne godine i zbirku „Otkrovenje”. O njenom autoru Isidora Sekulić, koja je umela da prepozna prave vrednosti među mladim piscima, pisala je: „Rastko Petrović je snažna mlada lađa , koja je i jedrila razapela, i vesla spustila, i čekrke navila, pa i leti kao galeb, i seče kao strela...” U Francuskoj su na školovanju boravili mnogi naši umetnici i iz nje se vraćali prenoseći francuski uticaj na našu kulturu, koji je bio nesumnjiv i pre Prvog svetskog rata, a posebno posle njega, ali su se do Rastkove pojave naši umetnici nekako utapali, a on je uspeo da ostane svoj. POVRATAK U OTADŽBINU Vrativši se u rodni grad, „malu ojađenu varoš”, imao je „utisak da sve kuće u prestonici pokušavaju da izrastu. Zida se na sve strane...” a u slučajnim susretima sa ljudima i starim drugovima otkrivao je potrebu za novim životom. Odlazio je u kafane, viđao se sa kolegama pesnicima, kupao u Savi... ali je pre svega objavljivao pesme u časopisima Zenit, Srpski književni glasnik, Kritika, Misli i Putevi. Počeo je da objavljuje i književnu i likovnu kritiku. U Beograd

je doneo mnoštvo umetničkih knjiga, časopisa i kataloga i, što je još važnije, svest koju je najjasnije izrazio Gijom Apoliner, autor knjige „Slikari kubisti”, koju neki smatraju jevanđeljem moderne umetnosti. On tu tvrdi da bi se „bez pesnika i umetnika, najuzvišenije ideje koje ljudi dobijaju iz univerzuma brzo... rasplinule. Sve bi potonulo u haosu”. Rastku Petroviću jednako su bili važni i poezija, i slikarstvo i vajarstvo. Od oca je nasledio crtački i slikarski talenat, što je, uz opštu kulturu, poznavanje slikarskih tehnika i jasnu predstavu o umetničkim tokovima, bila dobra osnova za uspešno i utemeljeno bavljenje umetničkom kritikom. S vremenom je postao najuticajniji likovni kritičar na beogradskoj kulturnoj sceni . U međuvremenu je postao i državni službenik. PUTOVANJA – POKUŠAJ PROBOJA U BESKONAČNOST Tokom svoje dvadesetogodišnje diplomatske karijere službovao je dve godine u Rimu, najpre u Vatikanu, a potom u poslanstvu, ali najduže u Sjedinjenim Američkim Državama. Kao diplomata putovao je službeno u London, Pariz, Dizeldorf, Keln i Veneciju, da bi već na jesen 1935. godine bio postavljen za konzula u Čikagu. Tokom svih tih godina putovao je kad god je mogao. Njegovu potrebu za putovanjima najbolje je opisao jedan od onih s kojima je bio blizak i po godinama i shvatanju poezije i života – Stanislav Vinaver, kada je napisao: „...Rastko je sebe osećao najviše kao putnika. Taj mu je simbol bio najdraži. Putnik jednako nešto otkriva. Putnik nikada nije stigao, ni išta ustalio: posle puta, opet predstoji – put...“ Putovanja su za njega bila, baš kao i umetnost, pokušaj „proboja u beskonačnost”. Iza tih putovanja ostajali su zapisi, putopisi, a kako je obavezno uz sebe nosio i skicen-blok, slikarski pribor i fotoaparat, putovanja su beležena svim sredstvima kako bi se doživljenom omogućilo da „živi simultano svuda i zauvek, kao neka treća dimenzija koja se vezuje za beskraj i večnost.” NEGDE PREKO GRANICA POJMLJIVOG Kada se Rastko Petrović kao dvadesetšestogodišnjak sećao vremena detinjstva i rane mladosti, tokom kojih su rasli i on i njegova otadžbina, pisao je o sebi u trećem licu: „...počeo se strahovito i nepojmljivo užasavati od kraja života. Pojmio je da ako piše pesme to nije zato da bi se izrazio, niti da bi imao uspeha, već jedino da bi se budućom slavom mogao produžiti i posle fizičkog umiranja. Umetnost je bila za njega kupovanje života negde preko granica pojmljivog. O, biti od ma kog spomenut posle hiljadu godina.“ Umro je u Vašingtonu, pre pedeset godina, u snu... Umro je baš onako kako je pisao u svojoj ranoj pesmi „Pun mesec”: „Evo ovako ćemo umreti: Bez glasa, tiho, mirno, (Kroz tihu noć srebrnu, A po jezeru zaspalu, Otploviće Smrti čun).” Pesnikov zemni prah spušten je u porodičnu večnu kuću, gde se pod mermernim obeliskom već okupila cela porodica Petrović. On tamo sada počiva u miru, jer mu je uslišena želja – umetnost koju je stvorio učinila ga je večnim. JOVO ANĐIĆ

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

O L G A - O L J A

I V A N J I C K I ,

P A I N T E R

RUNNER FASTER THAN TIME

first interviewed Olja on 5th March, 1998, in her house on Kosančićev venac. A conversation over a cup of tea and some rose-petal conserve in a space delicately permeated by a touch of Russian melancholy, her paintings, mystique and gold… I remember asking her whether all true love is sad, to which Olja responded: - Maybe not in the general scheme of things. Love is essentially a feeling whereby identity is required from another person. If in that feeling you differ even by an inch, you still haven’t found your true measure. Love should be perfect and yet it persistently eludes that perfection. One ordinary day ruins all romantic emotions. In a constant flurry of meetings, obligations and assignments, love flees. The second interview took place in March 2004, during an exhibition of her work entitled Recycled Art History - 19 Kosančićev Venac Residents and the 21st

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Century Phenomena, when 'playful pop-art' turned into a concept with the unfolding of a giant 'scroll of transitivity' on the gallery floor, where visitors left their tracks. The third interview was performed recently, in March 2009, in the same space as the first interview; in the same surroundings and with the same energy. And Olja herself was also the same. Fascinating and mystical, a woman of many talents: for Arts, Philosophy and Life, but, above all, she was fully and truly a Woman, with a full scope of meanings that this word and this world are meant to encompass – from the level of archetype to one of modernity. We were wrapping up our interview when Olja observed, while getting ready for the fashion show - I wish I could once again wear some high-heeled shoes and for those heels to be really high, really thin, at least five inches tall… And I remember thinking to myself that such energy could never die.

- For me painting, and therefore any creative activity, is the only a way to avoid reaching the end of my life with an empty heart. So wrote Olja Ivanjicki in a diary entry from 8th July, 1969. Upon hearing the news that she has passed away, we are herein publishing excerpts from one of the last interviews the artist ever gave, back in March 2009. Born as the only child in a marriage between Major Vasily Vasilienko Yakovlevich Ivanjicki and Veronica Michailovna Piotrovska, thick Russian blood infused with great artistic and genetic heritage ran through Olja Ivanjički’s veins. Such potential, along with an appropriate disposition of the planets, made Olja into an incredible artistic athlete; a runner that would be the first to reach the finish line in a race against time. From her journeys to distant provinces of our future, or trips to parts of our subconscious that lie far beyond the reach of mere mortals’ dreams, Olja would return with her paintings as admonitions. Moving through time in all directions, Olja’s talent doesn’t wane on commonplace topics of painting and history – The Last Supper, The Battle of Ivankovac 1805, The Battle of Deligrad 1806 – she also prophetically asks Would You Like a Pershing for Breakfast on Grass? (1972), or shows us The Religion of One God (1995), as well as Sharks and Shark-People. That is what makes her a perfect combination of the kind of strength and tenderness that is unique to rare women. In one of the catalogues accompanying her exhibition, Bogdan Dukić wrote: “Never hard, without rage or Olja and Milić od Mačve frenzy. Her spirituality is such that one gets the impression that she wouldn’t even cut thorns off a rose, but rather merely round them off to ensure they don’t prick everything and everyone, but only those who would pull forcefully at that beautiful flower.” Determined by Destiny or shaped by individual energies, our lives go by in various ways. What is it that defined your life; what made it exactly what it is? Of course, it could be people, events, processes, choices, scents, moments… - Probably a lot of things. All that happens to us defines our destinies. Maybe even things that take place before our birth, if you are somebody’s reincarnation - and I happen to believe that that is what we are. I’d like to believe that in most cases souls do return, perhaps to finish off something they couldn’t complete in time or to experience something they were deprived of in their previous life. That is what I believe, for it would be dreadful if we were to be born only as heartless matter. What influenced my life? In the first place, the fact that I’ve lived from the mid-20th century onwards: my memories of the Second World War to this last war, which has seemed to have gone on forever. As I said, every little thing defines us. Our beginning and our origins, the life line on the palm of our hand, our destiny in the cards. My first childhood memory is the scent of Merima baby soap. My first sensation didn't come through speech or sight. It came through a scent that has remained the same to this day. With the same association to water, warmth, cleanliness. What are you working on now? - A painting that has an intriguing title. I haven’t finished it yet and I prob-

ably shouldn’t do it the way I’ve named it. For the time being I’ve left it to be somewhere around me, as a beginning. What is the name of that painting? - Its title is The Last Judgement. That is why I’ve decided to slightly delay its completion. I really gave myself a fright when I started working on it. My fellow artists from the past used to work on paintings with such well-set, definite topics. For after that there’s nothing more… Many scientists, sociologists, psychologists and philosophers have claimed that the 21st century will be the century of women. And in 1982 you even planned a painting under the title Christ 2000, with Christ as a woman. - And why not? Why should only men bear the suffering of this world or the idea of its salvation? Your question is logical. In a world of men, it is clearly known who asks the questions and who gives the answers. But if we, as women, have the opportunity to ask questions and give answers to them, then we also have the right to put them into paintings. What is the true nature of a woman, as you feel it? - I feel it as multifaceted. It all depends on a woman’s mental capabilities; on her capacity to educate herself and at the same time express herself. It is not about her measurements in terms of her waistline, the size of her breasts or the length of her legs. A woman is as beautiful as she is clever. That is how I feel a woman should be. At the time of the artists' group Medijala, with its unbridled avant-gardism, sometime between 1953 and 1966, you worked out many of your anxieties and rebellions. What does that period of your life seem like to you today? Where does Medijala come in your path? - Medijala has a special value for me. It’s a kind of treasure that is kept in a safe, occasionally to be looked at, but most of the time it’s enough just to know it’s there. I used to wonder why rich people kept their valuables in safes: what good does it do when it’s not there, at their side, every single day? But nowadays I’ve also deposited Medijala in my consciousness as something valuable that I do not wear on a daily basis; as something that's not entirely mine, for it has a value of its own. I’m afraid someone could steal it. Sometimes I use it to feel more secure, which is why I occasionally go back. As people inevitably undergo change, so they can choose to become better or worse – it is up to them. The question is to what extent ageing and physical deterioration also cause degradation of the spirit . Is ageing always such a catastrophe, does one necessarily become so unattractive? I think not. Now then, the big question, philosophically speaking, is how to age well. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

O L G A – O L J A

I V A N J I C K I ,

S L I K A R K A

TRKAČ BRŽI OD VREMENA Za mene je slikarstvo, a samim tim i stvaranje, samo put da do kraja svog života ne stignem praznog srca – zabeležila je Olja Ivanjicki u svom dnevniku 8. jula 1969. godine. Na vest o njenoj smrti objavljujemo izvode iz jednog od njenih poslednjih intervjua, rađenog u martu ove godine.

rvi intervju sa Oljom radila sam 5. marta 1998. godine, u njenoj kući na Kosančićevom vencu. Razgovor uz čaj, slatko od latica ruža, u prostoru protkanom nekom finom ruskom setom, njenim platnima, mistikom i zlatom... Sećam se da sam je pitala jesu li sve prave ljubavi tužne, a Olja je odgovorila: -Možda ne u opštem toku stvari. Ljubav je u suštini osećanje kojim se od neke druge osobe traži istovetnost. Ako se u tom osećanju razlikujete za milimetar, to opet nije vaša mera. Ljubav bi trebalo da bude savršena, ali ona uporno

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izmiče tom savršenstvu. Jedan običan dan razbija pitanje emocija. U mnoštvu susreta, obaveza, poslova – ljubav izmiče. Drugi intervju je rađen 2004. godine, tokom martovske izložbe Olje Ivanjicki Reciklirana istorija umetnosti, stanari Kosančićevog venca 19 i fenomeni 21. veka, kada je razigrani pop-art prešao u koncept razvijanjem džinovskog svitka prolaznosti na podu galerije, na kome su posetioci ostavljali svoje tragove. Treći intervju radile smo nedavno, u martu ove godine, u istom prostoru, istom okruženju, sa istom energijom. I Olja je bila ista. Fascinantna i mistična,

višestruko talentovana za umetnost, filozofiju, život, ali pre svega žena, u punom i pravom smislu koji bi trebalo da podrazumeva ta reč, taj svet – sve od nivoa arhetipa do savremenosti. Završavale smo razgovor i Olja je, spremajući se za modnu reviju, prokomentarisala: „Želja mi je da još jednom obujem cipele sa visokim potpeticama, baš visokim, tankim, bar 12 santimetara…” A ja sam, sećam se, pomislila kako ta i takva energija – nikada ne umire. Rođena u braku majora Vasilija Jakovljeviča Vasiljenka Ivanjickog i Veronike Mihajlovne Pijatrovske, kao jedino dete, Olja Ivanjicki je u svojim venama ponela gustu rusku krv velikog umetničkog i genetskog nasleđa. Takav potencijal, uz odgovarajući raspored planeta, načinio je od Olje neverovatnog trkača, onog koji u trci s vremenom stiže pre njega, a onda sa dalekih, za nas smrtnike nedosanjanih predela naše budućnosti ili podsvesti, Olja nam vraća slike – opomene. Krećući se kroz vreme u svim pravcima, Oljin talenat se ne iscrpljuje samo na opštim mestima slikarstva i istorije: Tajna večera, Boj na Ivankovcu 1805, Boj na Deligradu 1806, već nas proročanski pita Želite li peršing za doručak na travi ( 1972 ), pokazuje nam Religiju jednog boga ( 1995 ), Ajkule i ljude ajkule. To čini onom savršenom mešavinom snage i nežnosti, svojstvenom retkim ženama. Bogdan Dukić je u tekstu jednog od kataloga koji su pratili njene izložbe zapisao: „Nikada tvrdo, uz gnev i pomamu. Njeno je duhovno tkanje takvo da se stiče utisak da ni trnje sa ruže ne bi odsekla, nego ga samo zaoblila da ne bode sve i svakog, nego samo onog ko silinom potegne na taj lepi cvet.” Sudbinom određeni ili pojedinačnim energijama oblikovani, naši životi protiču na različite načine. Šta je to što je odredilo Vaš život, što ga je učinilo baš ovakvim kakav jeste? To, naravno, mogu biti ljudi, događaji, procesi, izbori, mirisi, trenuci... - Verovatno mnogo toga. Sve što nam se dešava određuje naše sudbine. Možda i ono pre rođenja ako smo reinkarnacija nekoga, a ja verujem da mi to jesmo. Želim da verujem da se u većini slučajeva duše vraćaju da završe nešto što nisu stigle da urade, ili da poprave nešto što su kvarile tokom prethodnog života. Verujem u to, jer bilo bi strašno da se rađamo samo kao materija, bezdušna. Šta je uticalo na moj život? Pre svega to što sam živela od sredine dvadesetog veka naovamo, sećanja na Drugi svetski rat, na ovaj poslednji rat, koji je beskrajno dugo trajao. Kao što rekoh, sve nas određuje. Početak i prapočetak, linija na dlanu, zacrtana sudbina. Prvo čega se sećam iz deti-njstva je miris Meriminog dečijeg sapuna. Moja prva senzacija nije došla preko govora, pogleda. Došla je preko mirisa, koji je ostao isti do danas. Sa istom asocijacijom na vodu, toplo, čisto. Šta je to na čemu sada radite? - Slika je intrigantnog naslova. Nisam je završila. Bolje da je ne uradim onako kako sam je nazvala. Za sada sam je ostavila da bude tu negde, kao početak. Kako se zove ta slika? - Slika se zove Strašni sud. Zato sam odlučila da malo odložim njen završetak. Zaista sam se uplašila kada sam počela da je radim. Moje kolege umetnici iz nekih ranijih vremena radili su slike s tom tematikom, decidiranom, konačnom. Jer posle toga više ničeg nema... Mnogi naučnici, sociolozi, psiholozi, filozofi tvrde da će 21. vek biti vek žena. Po Vašem projektu iz 1982. godine za sliku Hrist 2000. – Hrist je žena. - Zašto da ne? Zašto bi samo muškarac podneo patnju ovoga sveta ili ideju o njegovom spasenju? Vaše pitanje je logično. U svetu muškaraca zna se ko postavlja pitanja i daje odgovore. Ako smo mi žene u prilici da postavljamo pitanja i odgovaramo na njih, onda imamo prava da to i naslikamo.

Olja and Leonid Šejka Koja je prava priroda žene, kako je Vi osećate? - Osećam je mnogostrano. Sve zavisi od moždanih kapaciteta žene, koliko može u tu glavu da stane i iz nje izađe. Nije reč o obimu kukova, veličini grudi, dužini nogu. Žena je onoliko lepa koliko je pametna. Tako ja osećam ženu. U Medijali, negde između 1953. i 1966. i njenom neobuzdanom avangardizmu Vi ste proživeli mnoge svoje tadašnje nemire i nemirenja. Kako Vam to razdoblje života danas izgleda? Gde je Medijala na Vašem putu? - Za mene Medijala ima posebnu vrednost. To je ona vrsta dragocenosti koja se drži u sefu, povremeno se pogleda, ali je najčešće dovoljno znati da je tu. Nekada sam se pitala zašto bogati ljudi drže svoje vrednosti po sefovima, šta će im kada nisu tu, pored njih, svakog dana. A sada sam i ja Medijalu pohranila u svesti kao dragocenost koju ne nosim svakodnevno, kao nešto što nije sasvim moje, jer ima vrednost po sebi. Bojim se da će je neko ukrasti. Ponekad mi služi kao osećaj sigurnosti, zato joj se povremeno vraćam. Ljudi u toku svog neminovnog menjanja mogu da postanu bolji ili gori – sami biraju. Pitanje je koliko starenje i propadanje telesnog uslovljavaju i propadanje duha. Da li je uvek starenje tako katastrofalno, sa tolikim poružnjivanjem? Ja mislim da nije. E sad, kako ostariti lepo – veliko je filozofsko pitanje. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

E V E N T S

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B E L G R A D E

THE WORLD

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JURASSIC

PERIOD 32

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

F R O M

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A major international exhibition Dinosaurs of Argentina – Giants of Patagonia opened in Belgrade’s Museum of Nature on 18th June, 2009. The exhibition will run for seven months until January 2010.

he exhibition, a major visiting project that required months of preparation in co-operation with the association Grupo Cultural from Argentina - authors of the exhibition, has given Belgrade an outstanding opportunity. Until January 2010, New Belgrade’s Impulse Hall, close to major hotels and the Sava Centre, will feature 20 types of dinosaur, with some 40 full skeletons exhibited, as well as other bones and fossils, including dinosaur eggs, skulls, nests of young dinosaurs, replicas of uncovered footprints and bones. However, certainly the most attractive exhibits are the whole skeletons of ten dinosaurs, including the giant bloodthirsty carnivorous Giganotosaurus, over 14 metres long; the giant herbivorous Rebbachisaurus, over 17 metres long and Carnotaurus (7.5 metres long). The complete skeleton of Megaraptor, nine metres long and with

prey-slaughtering claws of half a metre in length, is being presented in Belgrade for the first time. Apart from exhibited dinosaurs, this exhibition also represents a major multimedia project, with screenings of documentary films depicting how these dinosaurs were excavated and surveyed, as well as how they lived. This exhibition is of national importance and is especially attractive because Belgrade has never witnessed such a presentation. The exhibition is supported by the Serbian INFO Tel: +381 11 3442 147, +381 11 3442 149, Fax: +381 11 3446 580 Email: nhmbeo@nhmbeo.rs Url: www.nhmbeo.rs

Ministry of Culture and is under the general sponsorship of Raiffeisen Bank. The exhibition has already visited nearby Budapest, Bucharest, Turin and Haifa in Israel. In addition to the exhibition itself, there will be a rich and varied ancillary programme for all ages: from dinosaur-themed creative workshops, quizzes and puzzles, to esteemed expert-level lectures on these extinct giants. Visitors can buy individual tickets for adults and children, as well as group tickets; there is also a family package with special discount. The exhibition is open daily, except for Mondays, from 10am to 9pm. ALEKSANDRA SAVIĆ photographs: DANILO PETERNEK

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SVET IZ DOBA JURE U Beogradu je 18. juna, u organizaciji Prirodnjačkog muzeja, otvorena velika međunarodna izložba Dinosaurusi Argentine – Džinovi Patagonije, koja će trajati sedam meseci, od juna 2009. do januara 2010. godine.

zložba je veliki gostujući projekat, mesecima pripreman u saradnji sa udruženjem Grupo Cultural iz Argentine, autorima izložbe, koji je rezultirao mogućnošću Beograda da ponudi nesvakidašnju priliku. Sve do januara 2009. na Novom Beogradu, u prostoru Impuls hola, neposredno pored hotela Kontinental i u neposrednoj blizini Centra Sava, moći ćete da vidite 20 vrsta dinosaurusa, sa oko 40 eksponata skeleta i delova skeleta, među kojima su i jaja dinosaurusa, lobanje, gnezdo mladunaca, replika nađenih otisaka stopa, kosti, a najatraktivniji eksponati su svakako kompletni skeleti 10 dinosaurusa, među kojima je veliki krvoločni mesojed Giganotosaurus, dug više od 14 m, veliki

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biljojed Rebbachisaurus ( čija dužina prelazi 17 m), Carnotaurus (dug 7,5 m). U Beogradu je prvi put predstavljen kompletni skelet Megaraptora, dugog 9 m (sa kandžom dužine 0,5 m, kojom je ubijao plen). Pored eksponata dinosaurusa, izložba predstavlja i veliki multimedijalni projekat sa projekcijama dokumentarnih filmova o iskopavanjima i istraživanjima dinosaurusa, te o životu dinosaurusa. Ta izložba je od nacionalnog značaja, predstavlja posebnu atrakciju i do sada nikada nije viđena na našim prostorima. Izložba je organizovana uz podršku Ministarstva kulture Srbije, a njen generalni sponzor je Raiffeisen banka. Izložba je gostovala u našem najbližem

okruženju: Budimpešti, Bukureštu, Torinu i Haifi u Izraelu. Pored same postavke, planira se veoma bogat i raznovrstan prateći program namenjen svim uzrastima: od kreativnih radionica, kvizova i slagalica s temom dinosaurusa, do veoma stručnih predavanja posvećenih tim izumrlim džinovima. Posetiocima su omogućene pojedinačne karte za odrasle i decu, grupne karte, te porodični paket, sa posebnim popustom. Izložba je otvorena svakog dana, osim ponedeljka, od 10 sati do 21 sat. ALEKSANDRA SAVIĆ fotografije: DANILO PETERNEK

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UNIVERSIADE 2009

SETTING NEW STANDARDS

s soon as organisational efforts commenced for the biggest sporting event ever to held in our country – Universiade 2009 – one of the prevailing motives for Serbia, as the host nation, was to ensure that all athletes, their friends and family members to visit Belgrade and Serbia would take away positive impressions that would make them the most ubiquitous ambassadors of our country in the world. We counted on traditional Serbian hospitality, good organisation and creativity, as well as the lively energy of the Serbian capital. And we were right! Around eight thousand athletes from 143 countries took part in the 25th Summer Universiade, held in Belgrade from 1st to 12th July, together with delegation members and tourists who visited Belgrade on that occasion. They are now spreading impressions of Belgrade and Serbia’s warmth, beauty and new friendships all around the world. Jose Peres, member of the Mexican national football team, was delighted with the Universiade Village and his welcome to Belgrade, saying: – I am in Serbia for the first time and everything is excellent. Kondo Tomohiko, official of the Japanese University delegation, said: – I am honoured to have the opportunity to visit Serbia and be a part of this great sporting event. The Telecom Centre, enabling us to use all kinds of IT services, is in the immediate vicinity of the residential centre of the University Village. In short, everything is in accordance with the best standards. Martin Roberts, chief of the Australian delegation, was delighted with the accommodation that saw 200 athletes from Australia housed in the Universiade Village. He emphasised: – The journey to Belgrade was not easy at all, it lasted about 27 hours. But once we got to Belgrade everything was all

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right. We got accreditations as quickly as possible and immediately went to our rooms, which was fantastic. Boggiatto Chiara, 100 metres breast stroke gold medallist, said: – It is beyond my expectations! I like Serbia very much; the people are very friendly, which was not the case in most countries I’ve visited. Netherlands’ fighter Luuk Verbij, who took home gold on the first day of the 100kilo+ judo tournament at the Universiade, said: – The organisation is excellent and many people are watching judo competitions, which I like. The University Village is excellent, while the Universiade is the right place to meet new friends. Quian Quin from China, who proved triumphant in the women’s super weight category, said: – I like everything in Belgrade. The people are very nice; the surrounding is fantastic and the Universiade Village is excellent. Phan Ngok Thiet, deputy chief of the Vietnamese delegation, had made special preparations before coming to Belgrade. He said: – I had to learn your national anthem. I admit it was very difficult to learn and I still have not learnt it completely. Actually, I know only one verse. I am going to keep on learning it because I really want to know it fully. Dorsjuren Jargalsaikan, chief of the Mongolian delegation, said: – I knew everything would be excellent because I have visited Belgrade in March on the occasion of the delegations chiefs meeting and was delighted both with the city and the Universiade Village. Alaui Hikam, of the Moroccan national football team, said: – We will have an excellent stay in Serbia, according to the first impressions.

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UNIVERZIJADA 2009

POSTAVLJANJE NOVIH STANDARDA

photographs: Universiade 2009

oš je na samom početku organizacije najvećeg sportskog takmičenja koje je ikada održano kod nas – Univerzijade 2009, jedna od preovlađujućih motivacija Srbije, kao organizatora, bila ta što se očekivalo da će svi sportisti koji dođu u Beograd i Srbiju, njihovi prijatelji i članovi porodica odavde poneti utiske koji će ih s vremenom učiniti najbrojnijim ambasadorima naše zemlje u čitavom svetu. Računali smo na tradicionalno gostoprimstvo, dobru organizaciju, kreativnost, ali i pulsirajuću, živu energiju srpske prestonice. I nismo se prevarili. Na 25. letnjoj univerzijadi, održanoj od 1. do 12. jula u Beogradu i u još nekoliko gradova Srbije učestvovalo je oko osam hiljada sportista iz 143 zemlje, a kada se tome dodaju članovi delegacija, turisti koji su specijalno zbog Univerzijade u to vreme boravili u Beogradu – utisci o Beogradu i Srbiji već putuju svetom, noseći toplinu, lepotu i jedno novo, upravo stečeno prijateljstvo. Jose Perez, član fudbalskog tima Meksika, bio je oduševljen Univerzitetskim selom i prijemom u Beogradu: - Prvi put sam u Srbiji i sve je odlično. Univerzitetsko selo je prelepo. Kondo Tomohiko je oficijelno lice Univerzitetske delegacije Japana. -Velika mi je čast što sam posetio Srbiju i postao deo ovog velikog sportskog događaja. Telekomov centar, u kome možemo koristiti sve vrste IT usluga, u samoj je blizini rezidencijalnog centra Univerzitetskog sela, što predstavlja – svetski standard. Martin Roberts, šef delegacije Australije, nije krio oduševljenje zdanjem u kome su smešteni. Više od 200 sportista najmanjeg kontinenta bili su stanovnici Univerzitetskog sportskog sela.

-Put do Srbije nije bi nimalo lak, oko 27 sati. Ipak, sada je sve kako treba da bude, jer smo u Beogradu i sve teče u najboljem redu. Dobili smo akreditacije u rekordnom roku, odmah su nas uputili u sobe, što je fantastično. Boggiatto Chiara iz Italije osvojila je zlatnu medalju na 100 metara prsno. - Ovo stvarno nisam očekivala! Srbija mi se jako dopada, ljudi su i više nego druželjubivi, što nije bio slučaj u većini zemalja koje sam posetila. Holanđanin Luuk Verbij osvojio je zlatnu medalju prvog dana džudo turnira na Univerzijadi u kategoriji preko 100 kg. - Organizacija je odlična, dosta ljudi posmatra džudo takmičenja, što mi se sviđa. Univerzitetsko selo je za svaku pohvalu, a Univerzijada je pravo mesto da steknete prijatelje. Kineskinja Qian Qin trijumfovala je u superteškoj kategoriji kod dama. -U Beogradu mi se sve sviđa. Ljudi su veoma prijatni, okolina je fantastična, a Univerzitetsko selo je odlično.Phan Ngok Thiet, zamenik šefa delegacije Vijetnama, imao je posebne pripreme pred dolazak u Beograd. - Morao sam da naučim vašu himnu. Priznajem da je bilo veoma teško naučiti je i da još nisam uspeo da je u potpunosti savladam. Zapravo, ja znam samo jednu strofu. Nastaviću sa učenjem, jer je ovo zemlja čiju himnu želim da znam celu. Dorsjuren Jargalsaikan, šef delegacije Mongolije. - Znao sam da će sve biti u najboljem redu, jer sam u martu na sastanku šefova delegacija posetio Beograd i oduševio se – i gradom i Univerzitetskim selom. Alaui Hikam, fudbalska reprezentacija Maroka. - Prvi utisci nam govore da će nam biti odlično u Srbiji.

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FOURTH BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL ARCHITECTURE WEEK

RE-PHASES

he Fourth Belgrade International Architecture Week - held from 26th June to 4th July - had a concept that defined the architecture of post-war housing in Europe and the architecture of New Belgrade in particular. The event brought together a number of prominent architects from Bulgaria, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Romania, Switzerland, the UK, the U.S. and Serbia. The Belgrade Association of Architects and the Belgrade Cultural Centre gave this year’s Belgrade International Architecture Week programme a thematic title with the prefix RE... in reference to the acute issue of relation to existing architectural and urban environments and the possibilities of its constant REproduction, RE-construction, RE-vitalisation, RE-generation, RE-affirmation, RE-integration – into the living streams of time. Belgrade’s tumultuous history tells that the city has often undergone these RE-phases. Exhibitions, lectures, childrens’ workshops, walks through the architecture of Belgrade in the company of local architects and art historians - these are just some of the events shaping this event, which is becoming ever more interesting and ever more prestigious. The event was held with the support of the European Union’s National Institutes for Culture (EUNIC) and included the participations of some of the most prominent international architects. As in previous years, the audience had the opportunity to see contemporary domestic architectural solutions that were awarded as part of the competition segment, as well as awarded architectural pieces exhibited in the Art Gallery of the Belgrade Cultural Centre (KBC). The youngest visitors were not overlooked either: they had their own space for researching the RE within four children’s workshops, guided by the watchful eye of the Children’s Cultural Centre. BELGUEST

ČETVRTA BEOGRADSKA INTERNACIONALNA NEDELJA ARHITEKTURE

RE FAZE

INA RE... Četvrta beogradska internacionalna nedelja arhitekture, održana u Beogradu od 26. juna do 4. jula, svojim konceptom definisala je posleratnu stambenu arhitekturu Evrope, posebno arhitekturu Novog Beograda, uz učešće eminentnih arhitekata iz Italije, Francuske, Nemačke, Engleske, Holandije, Švajcarske, Bugarske, Rumunije, SAD i Srbije. Društvo arhitekata Beograda i Kulturni centar Beograda su ovogodišnji program BINE tematski naslovili prefiksom RE... On navodi na akutno pitanje odnosa prema arhitektonsko-urbanističkom okruženju i mogućnostima njegove stalne REprodukcije, REkonstrukcije, REvitalizacije, REgeneracije, REafirmacije, REintegracije – u žive tokove vremena. Burna istorija Beograda kazuje da je naš grad često prolazio kroz sve pomenute RE faze. Izložbe, predavanja, dečije radionice, šetnje arhitekturom Beograda u društvu domaćih arhitekata i istoričara umetnosti samo su neka od događanja kojima je uobličena ova sve zanimljivija i sve prestižnija manifestacija, održana uz podršku EUNIC (Evropske unije nacionalnih kulturnih centara) i uz učešće najvećih arhitekata današnjice. Kao i prethodnih godina, publika je bila u prilici da dosta toga sazna o savremenim domaćim arhitektonskim rešenjima nagrađenih radova sa konkursa i nagrađenih arhitektonskih ostvarenja na izložbi u Likovnoj galeriji KCB. Nisu zaboravljeni ni najmlađi, koji su imali svoj prostor za istraživanje RE unutar četiri dečije radionice, pod budnim okom Dečjeg kulturnog centra. BELGUEST

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GALLERY OF THE SERBIAN ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AND THE ARTS (SANU)

SAVA RAKOČEVIĆ One of Belgrade’s main artistic events during the month of July has been the exhibition of Sava Rakočević’s work, under the title Paintings and Drawings. After completing his studies in Belgrade in 1960, Sava Rakočević worked as a freelance artist and parttime illustrator for daily newspaper Politika. In 1966 he moved to Chicago and in 1970, the founding president of the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago, Joseph R. Shapiro, organised the first individual exhibition of Rakočević’s work in the U.S. In 1975 Rakočević found himself among the artists chosen to represent contemporary American painting at the Palais des Congrès in Paris, to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the founding of the United States of America. In 2007 he received the Vuk Stefanović-Karadžić Prize awarded for Outstanding Contributions to Serbian Culture by the Cultural and Educational Community of Serbia. Robert Yan, President of the Salon of the Independents, noted: The works of Sava Rakočević are an expression of the new understanding of imagination and talent, and this talent has to find its place in every museum of the world.

MILENA PAVLOVIĆ BARILLI One of the most important artistic events in Belgrade this summer will be an exhibition to mark the 100th anniversary of the birth of renowned Serbian artist Milena Pavlović Barilli. At the Gallery of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and the Arts, this retrospective exhibition of Pavlović Barilli’s work has been set up under the auspices of the Serbian Ministry of Culture, while the works on display are on loan from the collection held at the Homeland Gallery Milena Pavlović Barilli in Požarevac. Today, Milena’s paintings and drawings represent traces of a dream, so specific and different, that the only artistic trend she can ever be a part of are her own dream visions. And that is precisely what marked the entire period.

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SAVA RAKOČEVIĆ Izložba Save Rakočevića Slike i crteži osvežila je i obeležila likovnu ponudu Beograda tokom jula meseca. Posle završenih studija u Beogradu, 1960. godine, Sava Rakočević je radio kao slobodan umetnik i honorarni ilustrator lista Politika, a 1966. godine napušta zemlju i nastavlja svoj život u Čikagu, SAD. Rakočeviću, 1970. godine, prvu samostalnu izložbu u SAD organizuje osnivač i predsednik Muzeja savremene umetnosti Čikaga, Džozef R. Šapiro, a 1975. godine izabran je da bude među slikarima koji su predstavljali američko slikarstvo u Kongresnoj palati u Parizu, povodom proslave 200-godišnjice američke državnosti. Dobitnik je Vukove nagrade za poseban doprinos nacionalnoj kulturi, 2007. godine. Dela Save Rakočevića su izraz novog shvatanja imaginacije i talenta, i ovaj talenat mora naći mesto u svakom muzeju sveta zabeležio je Rober Jan, predsednik Salona nezavisnih.

MILENA PAVLOVIĆ BARILI Sto godina od rođenja čuvene srpske slikarke Milene Pavlović Barili obeleženo je izložbom koja će tokom leta biti jedan od najvećih likovnih događaja u Beogradu. U Galeriji Srpske akademije nauka i umetnosti, retrospektivna izložba Mileninog stvaralaštva postavljena je pod pokroviteljstvom Mimistarstva kulture Republike Srbije, iz fundusa njene zavičajne galerije u Požarevcu. Milenine slike i crteži danas su trag jednog sna, toliko posebnog i različitog, da je jedini umetnički pravac kome ona istinski pripada – njeno sopstveno snoviđenje. A upravo je njime obeležena - čitava jedna epoha. BELGUEST

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43RD BITEF – NEW THEATRE TENDENCIES

43. BITEF - NOVE POZORIŠNE TENDENCIJE

Belgrade will host the 43rd Belgrade Theatre Festival (BITEF) from 15th to 24th September, 2009. The festival will open in the Sava Centre with the play “Sutra”, performed by Sadler's Wells Theatre from London. The play is directed and choreographed by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, while Antony Gormley is in charge of visual creation and design. The play will be performed by 18 monks from the Chinese Shaolin Temple. The selection of the 43rd BITEF will include the award-winning play from this year’s Sterija Theatre Festival - Boat for Dolls by Milena Marković, directed by Ana Tomović and performed by the Serbian National Theatre from Novi Sad.

Od 15. do 24. septembra u Beogradu će biti održan 43. Bitef. Otvaranje je predviđeno za Centar "Sava" i predstavu "Sutra", Sadler's Wells Theatra iz Londona. Režiju i koreografiju potpisuje Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, a vizuelnu kreaciju i dizajn Antony Gormley. Predstavu će izvesti 18 monaha iz kineskog Šaolin hrama. U selekciji 43. Bitefa nalazi se i nagrađena predstava ovogodišnjeg Sterijinog pozorja "Brod za lutke" Milene Marković, u režiji Ane Tomović i izvođenju Srpskog narodnog pozorišta iz Novog Sada.

EUROPEAN HERITAGE DAYS

DANI EVROPSKE BAŠTINE

Septembar This year’s central celebration of European Heritage Days in Serbia will take place at the Museum of Prijepolje on 12th to 13th September, 2009, with the participation of guest museums from Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro and France; this event will also include a summit of these countries’ ministers of culture. The true objective of European Heritage Days is to promote Europe as common heritage. This year’s event will focus on the ability to safeguard and develop cultural diversity in neighbouring countries that, together – along with others – make up Europe, i.e., the focus will be on activities that make culture a base of richer and more substantial dialogue. Info: Republic of Serbia – Ministry of Culture www.kultura.sr.gov.yu

Septembar Centralna proslava Dana evropske baštine u Srbiji ove godine biće održana u Muzeju u Prijepolju 12. i 13. septembra, uz učešće muzeja iz Bosne i Hercegovine, Crne Gore i Francuske, a obuhvatiće i susrete ministara kulture tih zemalja. Istinski cilj Dana evropske kulturne baštine je promovisanje Evrope kao zajedničkog nasleđa, a ovogodišnja manifestacija biće fokusirana na rezultate raznolikosti u susednim zemljama, koji, svi zajedno, i čine Evropu. Odnosno, na sadržaje koji kulturu čine mestom bogatijeg i sadržajnijeg dijaloga. Info: Republika Srbija – Ministarstvo kulture www.kultura.sr.gov.yu

CRISIS OF CAPITAL – ART OF CRISIS

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Belgrade Boat Carnival 29.August 2009 Tourist Organisation of Belgrade www.tob.co.rs

Oplenac Church interior

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FILM IN SERBIA Serbia’s thriving film industry hit its peak in the early 1980s, when Yugoslavia ranked among the top destinations for overseas film productions. During filming of Around the World in 80 Days, in 1989, starring Pierce Brosnan, the former Yugoslavia represented a total of 18 countries, while the Serbian capital of Belgrade served as seven world cities –further demonstrating the diversity of locations and settings available in Serbia.

uring the regional unrest of the 1990s, the industry contracted significantly, but now the Serbian film industry is repositioning itself as a top destination for foreign film productions, with revenues in 2006 almost 400% higher than in 2002. The growth trend is expected to continue, thanks to Serbia’s talented human capital in this industry, as well as cost competitiveness, diversity of locations

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and comprehensive film service resources. The recent decision of Ralph Fiennes and River Road Entertainment to shoot a modern day version of Shakespeare’s tragedy Coriolanus in Belgrade further demonstrates the growing buzz around Serbia. In the past couple of years, other foreign film productions in Serbia have included Brothers Bloom (2007), Liliana Cavani’s Einstein (2007), Vittorio Storaro’s Caravaggio (2006), Oliver

Parker’s Fade to Black, starring Danny Huston and Christopher Walken (2005) and the sequel to Luc Besson’s horror film District 13 (2008). THE WORLD IS REDISCOVERING SERBIA Mike Downey, CEO of UK-based production company FAME, which has collaborated on several film productions in the region, recently told Screen Daily: “Serbia is being rediscovered as a country

with unique potential for the international feature film and commercial market. Serbia offers high-end production values and world-class talent, highly skilled, multilingual, experienced crews and close proximity to European centres. With unmatched location diversity and some of the lowest location rates in Europe, Serbia is finding its way back into the film industry.” The range of services available in Serbia also continues to expand to support foreign film productions. Last year saw post-production company Cinebox 100, the only production house in the region with a digital intermediate capability, establish the first film laboratory in Serbia, Cinelabs Beograd. Moreover, PFI recently completed its world-class studios in the vicinity of Belgrade, offering 452,000 square feet of sound stages, multiple production offices and facilities, as well as an extensive back lot. Avala Film, one of the biggest studios in the Balkans, is in the processes of being privatised and there is investor interest in retaining Avala’s assets as a production studio. A new generation of talent has infused Serbia’s film industry with a renewed sense of vibrancy and creativity. This accomplished human capital base is adept with state of the art equipment, advanced animation and commercial production. Serbia’s crews are recognised as exceptionally skilled throughout the region, creative, reliable and hardworking, while they have accumulated extensive international experience. This includes Hollywood productions, with Serbian costume designers for Marie Antoinette, production designers for Delicatessen, Heidi and Rasputin and visual effects creators for Pearl Harbor, Star Wars: Episode 2 and, most recently, The Reader. The country’s production companies enjoy strong working partnerships with key industry players and counterparts across the Balkans, making Serbia the ideal hub for regional and international productions.

HOSPITALITY, PROFESSIONALISM AND FUN Renewed international demand for information on filming in Serbia has produced an initiative to establish a Serbian Film Commission. Several industry leaders have been working together for the past several months to create a vision of the Film Commission structure, services and promotional activities. The first tangible result of this industry collaboration is a new Film in Serbia website, which will be publicly launched during the American Film Location Market this April. The website (www.filminserbia.com) will provide information on production and post-production service providers, logistics of operating in Serbia, sample locations, past productions, crews and equipment suppliers. The Serbian film industry, with the support of USAID’s Serbia Competitiveness Project and SIEPA, made its debut appearance at this year’s American Film Location Market from 16th to 18th April in California’s Santa Monica. The Serbian delegation, under the recently launched Film in Serbia brand, marketed the country’s advantages as a film location. The highlight of the Serbian team’s participa-

tion was a brunch held on 17th April at Dan Tana’s Hollywood restaurant, which was hosted by wellknown actress, HRH Princess of Serbia, Catherine Oxenberg. TV and film producers from the largest production houses and studios, including Universal, Fox, Mandate, the Film Department, Starz Media and Walden Media, attended the event. During the brunch, Ram Bergman, producer of Brothers Bloom, talked about his experience of filming in Serbia with the key words in his remarks including hospitality, professionalism and fun. Bergman warmly recommended Serbia to his colleagues and promised that he will be back, while Matt Birch, Brothers Bloom Head of Physical Production, especially focused on the talent and English speaking capability, emphasising that it was much easier to work in Serbia than elsewhere in the region. MILOŠ ĆURČIN www.siepa.gov.rs. www.filminserbia.com

Brothers Bloom

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FILM U SRBIJI Napredna srpska filmska industrija dostigla je svoj vrhunac ranih osamdesetih godina prošlog veka, kada je Jugoslavija važila za jedno od glavnih odredišta inostranih filmskih produkcija. Za vreme snimanja filma Put oko sveta za 80 dana, sa Pirsom Brosnanom u glavnoj ulozi, 1989. godine, bivša Jugoslavija je poslužila kao lokacija za ukupno 18 zemalja, dok je Beograd, prestonica Srbije, predstavljao sedam svetskih gradova – što samo potvrđuje raznovrsnost lokacija i filmskih setova na raspolaganju u Srbiji.

a vreme političkih nemira u regionu tokom devedesetih godina prošlog veka, filmska industrija se znatno smanjila. Danas se srpska kinematografija predstavlja tržištu kao vrhunska destinacija za strane filmske produkcije, sa prihodima koji su u 2006. godini skoro 400% veći nego u 2002. godine. Očekuje se dalji nastavak ovog rasta zahvaljujući talentovanom kadru koji radi u toj oblasti, povoljnim cenama, raznovrsnosti lokacija i sveobuhvatnim filmskim mogućnostima. Nedavna odluka Ralfa Fajnsa i kompanije River Roud Entertejnment da snimaju savremenu verziju Šekspirovog Koriolana u Beogradu dodatno

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potvrđuje povećano zanimanje za Srbiju. Proteklih godina neke od stranih filmskih produkcija u Srbiji bile su i Braća Blum iz 2007, zatim Ajnštajn Liliane Kavani iz iste godine, Karavađo Vitorija Storara iz 2006, Zatamnjenje Olivera Parkera s Denijem Hjustonom i Kristoferom Vokenom iz 2005, te nastavak horora Lika Besona Distrikt 13 iz 2008. godine. SVET PONOVO OTKRIVA SRBIJU Majk Dauni, predsednik britanske producentske kuće FAME, koja je sarađivala na nekoliko filmskih produkcija u regiji, nedavno je izjavio časopisu

Screen Daily: „Svet ponovo otkriva Srbiju kao zemlju s jedinstvenim potencijalom za međunarodne igrane filmove i komercijalno tržište. Srbija omogućava najmoderniju produkciju i izuzetno stručne, višejezične i iskusne ekipe na svetskom nivou, a sve u blizini evropskih centara. Zahvaljujući nenadmašnoj raznolikosti i cenama lokacija koje su među najnižima u Evropi, Srbija ponovo nalazi svoje mesto u filmskoj industriji.” Takođe nastavlja da se povećava raspon usluga koje u Srbiji postoje kao podrška stranim filmskim produkcijama. Postprodukcijska kompanija Cinebox 100, koja jedina u regiji poseduje digital interme-

Love and Other Crimes

diate tehnologiju, prošle godine je otvorila prvu filmsku laboratoriju u Srbiji, sa nazivom Cinelabs Beograd. Nedavno je PFI (Pink Film International) završio izgradnju filmskih studija na svetskom nivou u blizini Beograda. Nova talentovana generacija je u srpsku kinematografiju unela svežinu, osećaj živosti i kreativnosti, uz iskustvo sa najsavremenijom opremom, naprednom animacijom, te komercijalnom produkcijom. Srpske filmske ekipe su u čitavoj regiji priznate kao izuzetno stručne, kreativne, pouzdane i vredne. One poseduju i veliko međunarodno iskustvo, jer su sarađivale na holivudskim produkcijama u raznim vidovima. Tako su srpski kostimografi radili na filmu o Mariji Antoaneti, producenti na filmovima Delikatesna radnja, Hajdi i Raspućin, dok su dizajneri vizuelnih efekata učestvovali u radu na filmovima Perl Harbor, Ratovi zvezda Epizoda II, i na prošlogodišnjem filmu Čitač. Srpske producentske kuće održavaju blisku poslovnu saradnju sa najznačajnijim filmskim kompanijama i producentskim kućama širom Balkana, što Srbiju čini idealnim čvorištem za regionalne i

Filmset for Caravaggio, Avala film

Smederevo Fortress, Tears for Sale - film set

međunarodne produkcije. GOSTOPRIMSTVO, PROFESIONALIZAM, ZABAVA Ovaj obnovljeni međunarodni interes za dobijanjem informacija o snimanju filmova u Srbiji doveo je do inicijative da se ustanovi Srpska filmska komisija (SFK). Nekoliko vodećih filmskih kompanija proteklih meseci radilo je zajedno na stvaranju vizije o strukturi, uslugama i promotivnim aktivnostima SFK. Prvi opipljivi rezultat ove saradnje u okviru filmske industrije jeste nova prezentacija na Internetu Film in Serbia. Ona pruža podatke o kompanijama koje nude produkcijske i postprodukcijske usluge, o logistici poslovanja u Srbiji, daje uzorak lokacija, navodi produkcije iz prošlosti, ekipe i snabdevače opremom. Srpska filmska industrija je, uz podršku USAID Projekta za razvoj konkurentnosti Srbije i agencije SIEPA, prvi put učestvovala na ovogodišnjem Sajmu filmskih lokacija Asocijacije međunarodnih filmskih komisija (AFCI) u Santa Moniki, Kalifornija.

Delegacija Srbije, pod nedavno promovisanim brendom Film in Serbia, predstavila je prednosti Srbije kao filmske lokacije. Najvažniji događaj koji je priredila srpska delegacija bio je branč održan 17. aprila u restoranu Dana Tane u Holivudu, čiji je domaćin bila poznata glumica, srpska princeza Katarina Oksenberg. Događaju su prisustvovali televizijski i filmski producenti iz najvećih produkcijskih kompanija i studija, uključujući Universal, Fox, Mandate, Film Department, Starz Media, Walden Media. Tokom branča, Ram Bergman, producent filma Braća Blum, govoreći o svom iskustvu sa snimanja u Srbiji, posebno je u svom govoru istakao ključne reči kao što su gostoprimstvo, profesionalizam i zabava. Bergman je Srbiju toplo preporučio kolegama i obećao da će se vratiti, dok se Met Birč, šef fizičke produkcije Braće Blum, posebno osvrnuo na talenat i dobro poznavanje engleskog jezika i naglasio da je, u poređenju sa regionom, u Srbiji mnogo lakše raditi. MILOŠ ĆURČIN www.siepa.gov.rs. www.filminserbia.com

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TRAVELOGUE FROM SERBIA

- Sometimes a country will keep its secrets from a traveller for days, showing him nothing but its surfaces... Then, suddenly, it will throw him a key and tell him to go where he likes and see what he can. Rebecca West, travelogue Black Lamb and Grey Falcon Cities: Belgrade, Novi Sad, Niš...; Rivers: Danube, Sava, Drina...; Mountains: Tara, Kopaonik, Zlatibor...; Monasteries: Studenica, Žiča, Gradac... National parks, archeological sites, cultural properties included on UNESCO’s World Heritage List; fortresses, natural wonders like Devil’s Town, ambient wonders like the Guča Trumpet Festival… Choose your own part of Serbia from the 52 Weekends Programme; build your own itinerary, travel around Serbia and write your own travelogue.

SERBIA – A SELECTION OF SUMMER EVENTS Two of the most visited and renowned summer events in Serbia are the EXIT Festival, which is now behind us for another year, and the Guča Trumpet Festival – to take place in early August. Of a great many events scheduled to take place in numerous towns and cities, tourist resorts, mountains and on Serbia's rivers… we’ve compiled a list of the most interesting happenings, offering various features and activities, and we hope you’ll find it a useful guide to your many travels and encounters. famous trumpeter and composer Duško Gojković is no less of a star in his own right. Festival goers will have the opportunity to hear famous female choir Mysterious Voices of Bulgaria – who have a recording aboard the spaceship Voyager among the most precious treasures of human civilisation. This is a must-see event that will feature a great selection of artists and will take place in the beautiful setting of the Niš Fortress. Location and Date(s): Niš, 14th - 17th August, 2009. www.nisville.com

HEALING CARNIVAL PROCESSIONS

The Vrnjačka Banja Carnival Along with Guča and Exit, the Vrnjačka Banja Carnival is among the greatest tourist events in Serbia; it certainly represents the summer season's crowning

UNTIL THE NEXT EXIT

Exit 2009 is now officially closed. Looking forward to seeing you at Exit 2010. www.exitfest.org

OH GOLDEN TRUMPET! LET YOUR SOUND BE HEARD!

49th Dragačevo Trumpeters Assembly The annual Trumpeters Assembly has been one of the events making our country unique on the world tourist map for years. The Guča Trumpet Festival presents Serbia as a land of optimism, joy and genuine hospitality. The wonderful, authentic sound of the trumpet has astonished even legendary musicians, like Miles Davis back in the day. The events that draw the largest crowds are most certainly the competitions of trumpet orchestras and their musical 'battles', but Guča has much more to offer. Come and discover what it is that attracts people in their hundreds of thousands to come to the Trumpeters Republic and its capital – Guča. Location and Date(s): Guča, 5th - 9th August, 2009. www.saborguca.com

MYSTERIOUS VOICES FROM THE VOYAGER

25th Nišville Jazz Festival This year, the stages of the Nišville Jazz Festival will host about three hundred Jazz and World music performers. Headlining the programme will be the rock drummer Billy Cobham with his band Culture Mix. However, Serbia's own

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glory at Serbia’s popular spa. For a week in July, Vrnjačka Banja is transformed into a great stage where costume balls, exhibitions, concerts, theatre plays and sporting events take place... The climax of these festivities is the Great International Carnival Procession of groups that come from all over the world. The Vrnjačka Banja Carnival guarantees you will have a good time and is sure to get your juices flowing in an atmosphere that has a healing effect to clear your mind of any possible problems brought on by the routine of daily life. Location and Date(s): Vrnjačka Banja, 12th - 19th July, 2009. www.vrnjackikarneval.com

EUROPEAN 100%

16th European Film Festival – Palić 2009

Palić European Film Festival is one of the most important festivals in the region and one of the few in the world to screen European productions exclusively. The Festival Manifesto professes, among other things: - We believe that the European spirit is capable of experiencing film art as a medium which corresponds to the human need for play, fantasy and other substitutes for reality... By selecting the best productions in terms of quality, the Palić European Film Festival demonstrates that this sort of confidence is not futile. The Summer Stage is where all the action takes place, surrounded by the dense Palić forest that creates a beautiful natural setting to enjoy films from the official programme. Location and Date(s): Palić, 18th - 24th July, 2009. www.palicfilmfestival.com

festivity of this kind in Serbia is Reaping on Mt. Rajac. The first competition of reapers on Rajac took place along with the first popular fair, in 1892. Today, the Reaping is a picturesque tourist event with an international flair. Location and Date(s): Mt. Rajac, 17th - 19th July, 2009. www.kosidba.com

FEEL THE WONDROUS RIVER

16th River Drina Grand Regatta The River Drina Grand Regatta – Drina, the green river of surreal beauty – is the oldest tourist and recreational event of its kind in Serbia. This annual event takes place with the aim of preserving the ancient rafts-man tradition. The River Drina Regatta is the event that draws the largest crowds in Western Serbia and is a central summer event on the river. This three-day happening on the river is expected to attract many domestic and foreign visitors this year. The main attraction is the Drina Downfall, which sees hundreds of floating vessels and crews take part accompanied by trumpeters; there's also a floating bar, a musical raft, a barbecue, as well as other domestic culinary specialities and, finally, a swim in the River Drina is an absolute must. Location and Date(s): Bajina Basta, 16th - 19th July, 2009. www.regata.rs

SKIES, DANUBE, FORTRESS, THEATRE

SHEARING ON THE HEAVENLY MOUNTAIN

Reaping on Mt. Rajac Travel writers of the past named this mountain covered with groves and flowery meadows as Heaven on Earth, because of its sheer beauty. In olden times, when the crops were harvested with the help of friends and neighbours through an old custom known as ‘husking bees’, the reaping would always eventually turn into a true festivity. Certainly the oldest and most renowned

Fortress Theatre Festival – Smederevo The exclusive character of Smederevo Fortress ensures that it stands out among similar sites, while its Small Town's attractive location stirs imagery of the great classical plays of Shakespeare, Moliere, and Racine. This summer, for the very first time, this location is being transformed into a stage for the Fortress Theatre Festival. The Smederevo Fortress complex, built on the very banks of the River Danube, is considered one of the largest medieval lowland fortresses in Europe and represents a tourist attraction in its own right. The opening performance of German Theatre Titanick’s production Odyssey will mark a new chapter in the curious existence of this imposing edifice. Location and Date(s): Smederevo, 11th - 20th August, 2009. www.tvrdjavateatar.rs This list, understandably, cannot offer exhaustive information on various other interesting summer events taking place throughout Serbia. However, to get more information on all events that are scheduled for the summer of 2009, please visit the Tourist Organisation of Serbia's website at: www.serbia.travel/events.

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SRBIJA – IZBOR LETNJIH DEŠAVANJA

Dva najpoznatija i najposećenija letnja događaja u Srbiji su Exit Festival, koji je za nama i Sabor trubača u Guči, koji je će biti održan početkom avgusta. Od brojnih najavljenih dešavanja u velikim i manjim gradovima, turističkim centrima, na planinama, rekama... napravili smo listu najzanimljivijih događaja različitog sadržaja, sa željom da vam ovaj izbor bude putokaz za putovanja i susrete.

DO NAREDNOG EXITA

Exit 2009. godine je završen. Vidimo se na Exitu 2010. godine. www.exitfest.org

OGLASI SE ZLATNA TRUBO

49. dragačevski sabor trubača Sabor trubača je već godinama jedan od događaja koji našu zemlju čini jedinstvenom na turističkoj mapi sveta. Sabor trubača u Guči Srbiju predstavlja kao zemlju optimizma, veselja i iskrenog gostoprimstva. Čudesni, autentični zvuk trube zadivio je svojevremeno i legendarnog Majlsa Dejvisa. Magnet sa najvećom privlačnom silom jesu takmičenja trubačkih orkestara i njihovi muzički „okršaji“, ali Guča nudi još mnogo doživljaja. Otkrijte šta to privlači stotine hiljada ljudi u trubačku republiku i njenu prestonicu – Guču. njihove kompozicije nalazi se u vasionskom brodu Voyager, među odabranim vrednostima naše civilizacije. Ne propustite ovaj događaj, koji se, uz odličan program, održava u prelepom ambijentu Niške tvrđave. Niš: 14–7. avgust www.nisville.com

LEKOVITE KARNEVALSKE POVORKE

Guča: 5–9. avgust www.saborguca.com

MISTERIOZNI GLASOVI S VOYAGERA

25. Nišvil Jazz Festival Na pozornicama Festivala ove godine će nastupiti oko trista izvođača iz sveta džeza i world music pokreta. Zvezda programa je jazz rock bubnjar Billy Cobham, koji dolazi sa svojim sastavom Culture mix, ali ništa manje ne sija zvezda našeg proslavljenog trubača i kompozitor Duška Gojkovića. Na Festivalu nastupa i čuveni ženski hor Misteriozni glasovi Bugarske – snimak

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Vrnjački karneval Uz Guču i Exit, Vrnjački karneval je najveća turistička manifestacija u Srbiji i svakako predstavlja krunu dešavanja sezone u našoj popularnoj banji. Tokom nedelju dana jula, Vrnjačka Banja postaje jedna velika scena, na kojoj se održavaju maskenbali, izložbe, koncerti, pozorišne predstave, sportski događaji... Vrhunac festivala je Velika međunarodna karnevalska povorka grupa iz celog sveta. Vrnjački karneval garantuje dobru zabavu i karnevalsko raspoloženje povišene temperature koje lekovito deluje na sve moguće probleme što ih donosi svakodnevica. Vrnjačka Banja: 12–19. jul www.vrnjackikarneval.com

STO POSTO EVROPSKI

16. festival evropskog filma na Paliću Festival evropskog filma na Paliću jedan je od najznačajnijih festivala u regionu i jedan od retkih u svetu sa isključivo evropskim ostvarenjima. U pro-

gramskom manifestu Festivala, između ostalog, piše: „Verujemo da evropski duh ume da filmsku umetnost oseti kao medij koji odgovara čovekovoj potrebi za igrom, fantazijom i ostalim supstitutima realnog...“ Izborom najkvalitetnijih ostvarenja Festival evropskog filma dokazuje da ovakva vrsta verovanja nije uzaludna. Glavno mesto dešavanja je Letnja pozornica, ušuškana u gustu palićku šumu, a to je prelepo prirodno okruženje za uživanje u filmovima iz glavnog takmičarskog programa. Palić: 18–24. jul www.palicfilmfestival.com

OTKOSI NA RAJSKOJ PLANINI

Kosidba na Rajcu Stari putopisci su ovu planinu protkanu šumarcima i cvetnim livadama zbog lepote nazvali „Rajem na zemlji.” U stara vremena kada je bilo uobičajeno da se letina prikuplja uz pomoć moba, kosidba se uvek na kraju pretvarala u pravu svetkovinu. Najpoznatija i najstarija svetkovina te vrste u Srbiji je, svakako, Kosidba na Rajcu. Prvo takmičenje kosača na Rajcu se održalo kada i prvi narodni vašar, daleke 1892. godine. Danas je Kosidba pitoreskna turistička manifestacija međunarodnog karaktera. Planina Rajac: 17–19. jul www. kosidba.com

OSETI ČUDESNU REKU

16. drinska regata Regata na Drini – zelenoj reci nestvarne lepote – najstarija je turističkorekreativna manifestacija ovog tipa u Srbiji. Održava se u znak sećanja na drevnu tradiciju splavara. Drinska regata je najposećeniji događaj u zapadnoj Srbiji i centralna letnja manifestacija na vodi. Očekuje se da ovaj hepening na reci tokom tri dana različitim sadržajima privuče brojne posetioce iz zemlje i inostranstva. Glavni događaj je spust u kojem učestvuju stotine plovila i posada, uz trubače, plutajući šank, muzički splav, roštilj i ostale specijalitete domaće kuhinje i obavezno kupanje na reci. Bajina Bašta: 16–19. jul www.regata.rs

NEBO, DUNAV, TVRĐAVA, TEATAR

Festival Tvrđava teatar – Smederevo Atraktivna lokacija Malog grada Smederevske tvrđave koji svojom ekskluzivnošću nadmašuje slične prostore i podseća na velika teatarska ostvarenja, postavke Šekspira, Molijera, Rasina... postaje ovog leta prvi put pozorišni prostor velikog festivala. Kompleks Smederevske tvrđave, izgrađene na samoj obali Dunava, smatra se jednim od najvećih ravničarskih srednjovekovnih utvrđenja u Evropi i zanimljiv je sam po sebi, a kada ovog leta bude izveden ambijentalni spektakl Odisej u izvođenju teatra Titanik iz Nemačke, biće otvoreno novo poglavlje u zanimljivom životu ove impozantne građevine. Smederevo: 11–20. avgust www.tvrdjavateatar.rs Iz ovog izbora izostavljena su brojna zanimljiva letnja dešavanja u Srbiji. Ako želite da se obavestite o svemu što se nudi, pregledajte sajt Turističke organizacije Srbije www.serbia.travel/events BelGuest SUMMER 2009

The Petrovaradin Fortress by night

CITY BREAK – NOVI SAD | UNDERGROUND GALLERIES OF PETROVARADIN FORTRESS

CORRIDORS OF TIME The most attractive architectural structure within Petrovaradin Fortress is represented by the military galleries, a complex, 16-kilometre-long, mined communication system that is comprised of four underground levels. The whole project led to the tactical incorporation of the hill, cascade slopes and the River Danube into a unique fortification system of the fortress’s composition. Open for visitors and led by excellent guides, those on the tour hear the unfolding story of the militarily invincible fortress.

etrovaradin Fortress, like a Gibraltar on the Danube, looms domineeringly over this unpredictable area of the boundary of European civilisation, with its monumental architecture, complex fortifications and strategic military position. It was built on the right bank of the Danube, embedded in the Petrovaradin rock of the northeastern slope of Mount Fruška Gora. INVINCIBLE QUEEN OF BAROQUE With its position as a border fortification determined by destiny, Petrovaradin Fortress represents

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a monumental gateway between different boundaries: civilisation and barbarism, kingdoms and empires, Christianity and Islam, Balkan and Europe, Bačka and Srem. Simultaneously, it represents an unavoidable junction of main roads and rivers, mingled in the whirlpool of historical patterns of conquest and trade. Petrovaradin Fortress is a crowned queen of baroque fortresses. Heroic and grandiose, with its area of112 hectares, and in spite of all attempts it has remained militarily invincible. Nowadays it is the best preserved example of a military baroque

fortress in Europe, a masterpiece of Vauban’s exclusive art of fortification. As an outstanding urban-architectural and cultural-historical treasure, Petrovaradin Fortress was demilitarised in the mid-20th century and proclaimed a cultural monument. With its attractive cultural and tourist-recreation potential, this unique structure represents national heritage of exceptional importance. It is open to visitors year round, offering many interesting events that have turned it into a modern day place of fun, not waging wars.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE FORTRESS The Celts, as the first organised armed force in this area, constructed the wooden ramparts on the Petrovaradin rock, recognising the superior position of the fortress to be. After them, the new masters – the Romans – came, forming the Danube Basin Lines. They were followed by the Hungarians, during the 13th century, and the Turkish military campaign against Vienna in 1526. The Ottoman Turks held the fortress for more than half a century, until the Great Vienna War and the year 1691, when it was defiantly taken after the long war by the Austro-Hungarian Empire, who created its contemporary look. The construction of the fortress was carried out according to the designs of the most prominent Austrian military architects (Kaisersfeld, Marsili, Vamberg, etc.). They had constructed the best fortress of the Hapsburg monarchy, through massive but thorough work. After the lengthy period of construction, which came with interruptions and many casualties, Petrovaradin Fortress was officially completed in 1780. Built as an outstanding operative–defensive fortification, with a large garrison of 4,000 soldiers and powerful artillery, it later became a military-administrative centre, housing the general command and scores of administrative workers. After World War I, it found itself within the borders of Yugoslavia.

UNDERGROUND MINEFIELD The highly efficient underground defensive mine system installation, or field, was the creation of engineering major and Austrian aristocrat Alfred Shredder as the project of defensively arming the whole complex system. The underground mine system of Petrovaradin Fortress was built between 1765 and 1783 as part of the subterranean 16 kilometre-long, four-level system of military galleries. The underground mine system was one of the biggest of any European fortification. HEARTHS Artillery was the main military division garrisoned in Petrovaradin Fortress. The defensive power of this fortification was based, besides strong bastions and a large garrison, on the fortress’s powerful artillery, heavy, field and trench. The Petrovaradin Fortress had about 400 cannons and other artillery, with lots of ammunition and gunpowder. In the case of a drawn-out siege of Petrovaradin Tower, the underground military galleries, as the military-defensive system functionally co-ordinated with the ground fortress installations (the objects of the Upper Fortress and Hornverk), could accommodate thousands of soldiers of different divisions: infantry, engineering, artillery, communications, etc.

In order to enable the normal functioning of soldiers in cases of combat or manoeuvres, kitchens were built with fires to warm weary soldiers and cook. LIFT The complex of underground military galleries was designed as labyrinth of fortified rooms and corridors adjusted to the terrain of the Petrovaradin rock and the demands of waging wars at a time when the aim was to prevent the enemy’s breakthrough. The whole complex of command, combat and storage facilities, as well as the corridors of the underground mine system, are connected with ancillary horizontal and vertical passes that facilitate efficient communication among the defenders of the Fortress. The vertical communication, the lift, was positioned in this case in the base of the triangular ravelin and was used to transport soldiers and military equipment to the three underground levels and onwards to the interior corridors of the fortification by using vertically positioned bricks and fixed rope on the top of the lift. It is those galleries that represent the corridors of history that can now take you to past times, relaying the story of the militarily invincible fortress. SINIŠA JOKIĆ

New light of the underground gallery

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PODZEMNE GALERIJE PETROVARADINSKE TVRĐAVE

HODNICI VREMENA Kao najatraktivnije arhitektonsko delo u okviru Petrovaradinske tvrđave izgrađene su Podzemne vojne galerije, komplikovan komunikacioni i minski sistem u dužini od 16 kilometara, raspoređen na četiri sprata pod zemljom. Ceo projekat podrazumevao je taktičko inkorporiranje brdovitog uzvišenja, stepenastih padina i vodene mase Dunava u jedinstven fortifikacioni sistem tvrđavske kompozicije. Otvorene za posetioce, uz sjajne vodiče, Podzemne galerije vode hodnicima vremena, pripovedajući priču o tvrđavi koja nikada nije vojnički osvojena.

etrovaradinska tvrđava, kao Gibraltar na Dunavu, svojom monumentalnom arhitekturom, kompleksnom fortifikacijom i vojnostrateškim položajem, vekovima dominira nepredvidivim prostorom civilizacijskog razmeđa evropske istorije. Izgrađena je na desnoj obali velike reke, na Petrovaradinskoj steni – isturenom severoistočnom obronku planinskog venca Fruške gore. NEOSVOJIVA KRALJICA BAROKA Svojim sudbinski određenim položajem graničnog utvrđenja, ona je statusna kapija raznolikih granica:

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civilizacije i varvara, carstava i imperija, hrišćanstva i islama, Balkana i Evrope, Bačke i Srema, ali i neminovna raskrsnica glavnih puteva: suvozemnih drumova i rečnih saobraćajnica, ukrštenih u kovitlacu istorijskih zbivanja, nekad osvajačkih, nekad trgovačkih. Petrovaradinska tvrđava je krunisana kraljica baroknih tvrđava. Herojska i sa svojih 112 hektara površine grandiozna, i pored svih pokušaja, nikada vojnički osvojena. Danas je to najbolje očuvana tvrđava vojno-baroknog nasleđa u Evropi, remekdelo Vobanove ekskluzivne škole fortifikacije. Kao izvanredna urbanističko-arhitektonska i kul-

turno-istorijska vrednost, Petrovaradinska tvrđava je sredinom XX veka demilitarizovana i proglašena za spomenik kulture. Atraktivnim kulturološkim i turističko-rekreativnim potencijalom, ta unikatna vrednost predstavlja nacionalnu baštinu od izuzetnog značaja. Otvorena je za posetioce tokom čitave godine, nudeći mnoge zanimljive sadržaje koji je u novom vremenu pretvaraju u prostor ne više za ratovanje već – za uživanje. IZGRADNJA TVRĐAVE Kelti, kao prva organizovana vojna sila pod ovim podnebljem, prepoznajući superiorni

Reconstruction of the barricades and artillery stores in the underground galleries

položaj utvrde, obnavljaju zemljani bedem na Petrovaradinskoj steni. Za njima, formirajući podunavski Limes, stižu i novi gospodari – Rimljani, potom Ugari tokom XIII veka, Turci u svom pohodu na Beč 1526. godine. Više od 160 godina Osmanlije gospodare Tvrđavom, sve do velikog bečkog rata i 1691. godine, kada ona, posle uporne borbe, definitivno prelazi u ruke austrijske carevine, koja joj je i podarila današnji izgled. Izgradnja Tvrđave tekla je po projektima najpoznatijih autoriteta austrijske vojne arhitekture (Kajzersfeld, Marsili, Vamberg...), koji su u masovnim, ali temeljnim radovima podizali najsavršenije utvrđenje Habzburške monarhije. Posle dugotrajne gradnje sa prekidima, uz mnogo ljudskih žrtava, Petrovaradinska tvrđava zvanično je završena 1780. godine. Podignuta kao prvorazredna operativno-odbrambena fortifikacija, sa velikim garnizonom od 4000 vojnika i brojnom artiljerijom, postaje u svojoj kasnijoj istoriji vojnoadministartivni centar, sa generalnom komandom i brojnim činovničkim aparatom. Posle Prvog svetskog rata u sastavu je jugoslovenske države. MINSKO POLJE POD ZEMLJOM Za ono vreme, savršeno delotvorna odbrambena instalacija podzemnog minskog sistema, odnosno

polja, delo je inženjerijskog majora i austrijskog plemića Alfreda Šredera, kao projekat odbrambenog sistema celog kompleksa. Podzemni minski sistem Petrovaradinske tvrđave građen je od 1765. do 1783. godine kao deo 16 kilometara dugačkog i u četiri podzemna nivoa raspoređenog sistema vojnih galerija. Podzemni minski sistem bio je jedan od najvećih među evropskim fortifikacijama. KAMINI U garnizonu Petrovaradinske tvrđave artiljerija je bila glavni rod vojske. Odbrambena moć te fortifikacije, pored snažnih bastiona i brojnog garnizona, zasnivala se na velikoj vatrenoj moći tvrđavske teške, poljske i rovovske artiljerije. Petrovaradinska tvrđava je posedovala oko 400 topova i merzera, sa uskladištenom velikom količinom municije i baruta. U slučaju duže opsade Petrovaradinske tvrđave, podzemne vojne galerije, kao vojnoodbrambeni sistem funkcionalno usklađen sa nadzemnim tvrđavskim instalacijama − objektima Gornje tvrđave i Hornverka, mogle su da prime više hiljada vojnika: infanterije (pešadije), inženjerije, artiljeraca, kurirske službe itd. Da bi život vojnika u slučaju borbenog dejstva ili manevarskih vežbi u podzemnim galerijama

funkcionisao, izgrađene su prostorije– kuhinje za okrepljenje vojnika, sa kaminima u kojima se ložila vatra i pripremala hrana. LIFT Kompleks podzemnih vojnih galerija projektovani je lavirint fortifikacionih prostorija i hodnika, prilagođen terenu Petrovaradinske stene i zahtevima onovremenog ratovanja, sa ciljem da se spreči prodor neprijateljevih vojnika. Čitav taj splet komandnih, borbenih i magacinskih objekata i koridora podzemnog minskog sistema povezan je sporednim, horizontalnim i vertikalnim saobraćajnicama, neophodnim za efikasnu komunikaciju branilaca Tvrđave. Vertikalna komunikacija, lift, postavljena je u ovom slučaju u temenu (sajanu) ravelina i služila je, upotrebom isturene vertikalno postavljene opeke i učvršćenog kanapa u svodu lifta, za saobraćaj vojnika i vojne opreme prema tri podzemna nivoa, iz kojih se dalje prostiru hodnici ka unutrašnjosti fortifikacije. Upravo su te galerije hodnici istorije koji danas vode kroz prošlo vreme, pripovedajući priču o tvrđavi koja nikada nije vojnički osvojena. SINIŠA JOKIĆ

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

INFO | NOVI SAD MUZEJI MUZEJ GRADA NOVOG SADA Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Gornji plato-Mamulina kasarna, Tel. 021/64 33 145, 64 33 613; MUZEJ GRADA-ZBIRKA STRANE UMETNOSTI, Dunavska 29, Tel. 021/451-239 MUZEJ GRADA-SPOMEN ZBIRKA JOVAN JOVANOVIĆ ZMAJ, Sremska Kamenica J. Jovanovića Zmaja 1, Tel. 021/462 810 MUZEJ GRADA-ZAVIČAJNA ZBIRKA, Sremski Karlovci, Patrijarha Rajačića 16, Tel. 021/810 637 MUZEJ VOJVODINE, Dunavska 35-37 Tel. 021/420 566, 526-555 Etno-kuća “Brvnara”, Bački Jarak Posete najaviti telefonom na Tel.021/525-059 Poljoprivredna zbirka Kulpin Istorija poljoprivrede Posete najaviti telefonom na Tel.021/786-266 MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI VOJVODINE, Jevrejska 21. Iložbeni prostor MUZEJ VOJVODINE Dunavska 37, Tel. 021/66 13 897, fax: 021/66 11 463 ,msluns@eunet.yu www. msluns.org.yu ZAVOD ZA ZAŠTITU PRIRODE SRBIJE RJ NOVI SAD, Radnička 20a, tel: 021/48 96 302 www.natureprotection.org.yu GALERIJE GALERIJA MATICE SRPSKE Trg galerija 1, Tel. 021/48 99 000 galmats@eunet.yu GALERIJA SPOMEN-ZBIRKA PAVLA BELJANSKOG Trg galerija 2 , Tel. 021/472 99 66 kontakt@pavle-beljanski.org.yu www.pavle-beljanski.org.yu GALERIJA POKLON ZBIRKA RAJKA MAMUZIĆA Vase Stajića 1 Tel. 021/520 467, 520 223

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

HOTELI PARK***** Novosadskog sajma 35 Tel. 021/4 888 888 Fax: 4 888 885 http://www.hotelparkns.com info@hotelparkns.com LEOPOLD I ***** Petrovaradinska tvrđava Tel. 48 87 878 http://www.leopoldns.com office@leopoldns.com ALEKSANDAR**** Bulevar cara Lazara 79 Tel. 480 44 44; 480 44 84 Fax: 480 44 44 http://www.aleksandar-hotel.co.rs office@aleksandar-hotel.co.rs PRESIDENT**** Futoski put 109 Novi Sad Tel. 487 74 44 Fax: 6624 333 www.presidenthotel.com SAJAM*** Hajduk Veljkova 11 Tel. 420-266 Fax: 420-266 htpsajam@eunet.rs VOJVODINA*** Trg Slobode 2 Tel. 6622-122, 6615-445 vojvodinahtl@neobee.net NOVI SAD*** Bulevar Jaše Tomića bb Tel. 442-511 Fax: 443-072 http://www.hotelnovisad.co.rs hupns@neobee.net NORCEV*** Elektrovojvodina, Iriški venac, Partizanski put bb Tel. 48 00 222, Fax: 48-00-256 http://www.elektrovojvodina.com ZENIT*** Zmaj Jovina 8 Tel. 66 21 444, Fax: 6621-327 http://www.hotelzenit.co.rs info@hotelzenit.co.rs PANORAMA*** Futoška 1a Tel. 4801-800 http://www.hotelpanorama.co.rs panorama@neobee.net FITNESS GYMNAS** Teodora Pavlovića 28 Tel. 467 710 Fax: 474 07 04 http://www.gymnas.co.rs

gymnas@neobee.net MEDITERANEO** Ilije Ognjanovića 10 Tel. 427 135 http://www.hotel-mediteraneo.rs mediteraneo@sbb.co.yu RIMSKI** Jovana Cvijića 26 Tel. 444 765, Fax: 443-237 http://www.rimski.co.rs rimski@eunet.rs SVETI GEORGIJE* Marina Držića 1 Petrovaradin Tel. 432 332 http://www.svetigeorgije.co.rs info@svetigeorgije.co.rs EPICENTAR* Branka Ćopića 122 Tel. 674 82 81, http://www.hotelbracadrinic.com hotelbracadrinic@neobee.net DUGA* Ćirila i Metodija 11b Tel. 63 64 191, Fax: 469 754 http://www.duga-radisic.co.rs rjovan@neobee.net PANSION PANSION BULAĆ*** Međunarodni put 80 Čenej Tel. 714-455 714-455 TURISTIČKI APARTMANI BONACA** Kisacka 62 Tel. 446 600, 446 555 HOSTELI IYHF “BRANKOVO KOLO” Episkopa Visariona 3 Tel. 425 441 www.hosteln s.com office@hostelns.com DOWNTOWN Njegoševa Tel. 064/19 20 342 064/241 12 36 www.hostelnovisad.com info@hostelnovisad.com LAZIN HOSTEL Laze Telečkog 10 Tel. 021/063 443703 , 064 0133030 www.lazinhostel.org lazinhostel@hotmail.com

SOVA Ilije Ognjanovića 26 Tel. 021/527 556 060/ 6 613 510 www.hostelsova.com contact@hostelsova.com PRENOĆIŠTA NAŠ SALAŠ Međunarodni put 325 Tel. 021/714 704 www.nassalas.rs info@nassalas.rs BELA LAĐA (prenoćište / lodging house) Zlatne Grede 15 Tel. 021/500-190, Fax: 472-5120 www.roomsnovisad.com VIGOR Jožef Atile 2 Tel. 021/689 4444, 468 160 www.hotelvigor.com office@hotelvigor.com SALAŠ 137 Medjunarodni put Čenej Tel. 021/ 714 501 www.salas137.rs info@salas137. rs OLIMP Milosa Obilića 8 , Sremska Kamenica Tel. 021/463-295 olimps@ptt.rs kordun@neobee.net EVANGELINA Branislava Bukurova 2 , Sremska Kamenica Tel. 021/464-111 Fax: 463-681 tehnounion@eunet.rs SALAŠ 84 Kaćki put 84 Kać Tel. 021/445 993 Fax 6417-263 salas84@neobee.net FONTANA Nikole Pašića 27 Tel. 021/6621-779 fontana@eunet.rs BELA LAĐA (restoran&prenoćište / restaurant& and lodging house) Kisačka 21 , Tel. 021/6616 594, 472 51 20, 063 680-822 Fax: 553 974 www.roomsnovisad.com resbelaladja@yahoo.com

O Č N I

C E N TA R

D Ž I N I Ć

Specijalistička oftalmološka ordinacija

“Prof. dr Džinić“ Prof.dr sci.med. Miroslav Džinić, oftalmolog-oftalmohirurg Dr med. Vladislav Džinić, doktor medicine

HIRURGIJA OKA, DIJAGNOSTIKA I LEČENJE

OPTIKA “DŽINIĆ” Novi Sad, Vršačka 34

OPTIKA “DŽINIĆ” Novi Sad, Spens, Sutjeska 2, tel: 021/6624-535 OPTIKA “DŽINIĆ” Inđija, Kralja Petra I, tel: 022-553-501

ZAKAZIVANJE: 021/520-961 021/6618-678 021/6395-825 021/6395-883 021/505-520

Radno vreme: ponedeljak, utorak, četvrtak 9h-17h, sreda, petak, subota 9h-14h

NOVI SAD, Vršačka 34

www.dzinic.rs

ALL THE TASTES OF SREM

INFO Ethno restaurant Zekin salaš 7 Uce Zekovica, Krcedin 022-500-314 064-641-55-72 Working hours: Daily (except Mondays), from 11am to 11pm Tamburica band – on Thursdays and at weekends office@zekinsalas.com

Numerous European cuisines have met in Vojvodina – from spicy Hungarian, to noble Austro-Hungarian, strong Turkish from across the Sava, then Slovakian with all kinds of dumplings. One irresistible culinary delight is the famous pork stews from Srem, Vlach meals with cheese, poachers’ game specialties as well as the culinary specialities from the western regions, brought by the residents of Lika and Kordun. Furthermore, there are fish specialities from the rivers Danube and Tisa.

ong ago, people enjoyed their meals. They’d eat slowly together with members of their families at the table, not rushing and standing, as they do today. For breakfast there were sausages from Srem, crackling, goose pate or just fresh bread, fat, salt and peppers. For lunch soup was served first, perhaps Hungarian cream pumpkin soup or duck or goose broth. Then, according to German tradition, meat from the soup or dough with ham were served. After that, filled rolled duck or roasted goose in wine, carp in wine and fried bream followed. To complete the meal, there were dumplings, salt rolled dough or pumpkin fricassee. Not to mention different pies, cakes made of fat, strudels, doughnuts, walnut cakes or cakes with jam to announce the end of the gastronomic holiday. The meal was enriched with wine mixed with soda oso lepes meaning short walk in Hungarian, or excellent domestic brandies. The art of living of that kind can be found today at

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Zekin salaš. It is nestled in the hills of the old Vojvodina village of Krcedin on the slopes of Mount Fruška Gora. It is surrounded with krcedinska ada, numerous Danube tributaries and swamps. It is close to Belgrade and Novi Sad, almost equidistant from both of them. The restaurant is located in the centre of the village in an authentic household of Srem. The windows of the peasant’s house are covered with pepper tiles, while the glassed porch has embroidered curtains and bushes of muscatel flowers. The yard is spacious, paved with large format bricks. There poultry and rabbits wander freely and the dog announces visitors with its bark. The summer house is surrounded with rosebushes and chestnut trees and covered with a thatched reed roof. The tables are of black locust wood and the benches are covered with rugs. The salaš represents an ideal place during hot summer days. A former barn has been converted into an antique shop with souvenirs. On the threshing floor there is a multimedia hall and commercial

art gallery, which are decorated with an old stove. Under the raised barn with there is a permanent museum exhibition entitled The Rabbit that ate the Museum, dedicated to the rabbit of academic painter Nikola Dzafo. The sounds of tamburica band Biseri Srema (Pearls of Srem) invite guests to party. There are the pattern painted rooms, covered with bricks and their authentic interior with cupboards, old fashioned shelves, hangers and an irresistible cooks’ embroidery in all the languages of Vojvodina. There are tiled stoves, rolling benches, woven tablecloths, clocks… There are plenty of details which, together with the unique culinary enjoyment at Zekin salaš, are otherwise reminiscent of the scents and life of Srem. Soon a Centre of Healthy Food and a zoo will be built here, while accommodation capacities are planned in order to enable visitors to enjoy the sojourn in this wonderful oasis. VLADIMIR POČUČ

ZEKIN SALAŠ

SVI UKUSI SREMA U Vojvodini su se susrele mnoge kuhinje Evrope – ljuta mađarska, fina austrougarska, jaka turska, pristigla sa druge obale Save, pa slovačka sa svim mogućim noklicama... Nezaobilazni su i čuveni sremski svinjski paprikaši, vlaška jela sa sirom, fruškogorski lovokradački specijaliteti od divljači, ali i kulinarske majstorije zapadnih krajeva koje su doneli Ličani i Kordunaši. Onda fiševi iz Dunava ili Tise...

melo se nekada jesti... Onako natenane, porodično, za stolom, kada se okupe svi, nikako s nogu kao što se to obično danas čini. Za fruštuk sremska kobasica, čvarci, pihtije, guščija pašteta, ili samo friška leba, masti, soli i paprike. A za ručak najpre čorba, možda baš mađarska krem od bundeva ili kakva pačija ili guščija supa. Potom, po švapski, rindflajš ili trganjci sa šunkom. Slede punjena rolovana patka ili pečena guska u vinu, pijani šaran i pržena deverika. Da bi obrok bio potpun, tu su i valjušci, slane šufnudle ili ćušpajz od bundeve. Tek pite savijače, salčići, štrudle, krofne, gomboce, šapice s orasima ili tašci s pekmezom, najavljuju kraj gastronomskog praznika. Oplemenjuje se špricerom oso lepeš, što bi Mađari rekli kratki hod, ili proverenim domaćim rakijama... Takvu umetnost življenja pronaći ćete danas još

u Zekinom salašu. Ušoren je u Krčedinu, starom vojvođanskom selu, na obroncima Fruške gore. Okružuju ga krčedinska ada, brojni rukavci Dunava i bare. Nije daleko ni od Novoga Sada, niti od Beograda. Smestio se taman između. U centru je sela, u autentičnom sremačkom domaćinstvu. U pendžerima paorske kuće prekrivene bibercrepom, sa zastakljenim gonkom, firange sa vezom i bokori muškatli... Dvorište prostrano, popločano ciglama velikog formata, kojim perad i zečevi slobodno špaciraju, dok kera najavljuje putnike namernike. Letnjikovac, okružen ružičnjacima i stablima lešnika, natkriven je trskom. Stolovi su od bagremovog drveta, a klupe prekrivene krparama. Mesto za odmor u vrelim letnjim danima... Nekadašnji ambar za žito sa čardakom preuređen je u antikvarnicu sa suvenirima. Na guvnu su multimedijalna sala i prodajna galerija slika. Krasi ih

stara zidana furuna... Ispod kotobanje sa binom stalna je muzejska postavka Zec koji je pojeo muzej, posvećena naravno, zecu akademskog slikara Nikole Džafo. Zvuci tamburaške bande Biseri Srema pozivaju u kuću na bećarenje... Sobe molovane na mustru, popločane ciglom, čiji autentični enterijer upotpunjuju kredenci, starinske police, tonet stolice, čiviluci i nezaobilazni vez kuvarica na svim jezicima Vojvodine. Tu su i kaljeve peći, klupa na prevrtanje, tkani stolnjaci, abzeci, satovi... Mnoštvo detalja koji, uz neponovljiv kulinarski užitak na Zekinom salašu, pričaju o mirisima i životu Srema. Uskoro će na ovom mestu zaživeti i centar zdrave ishrane, zoološki vrt, a predviđeni su i smeštajni kapaciteti kako bi se u ovoj bajkovitoj oazi konačilo. VLADIMIR POČUČ

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

ETNO RESTORAN NAŠ SALAŠ

HEDONIZAM RAVNICE

ETHNO RESTAURANT NAŠ SALAŠ

HEDONISM IN THE PLAINS

he Naš Salaš ethno restaurant is a unique and original farmstead inter- INFO woven with ethnic features of the Vojvodina Međunarodni Put region. The salaš’s cuisine is based on a (International Road) 325, mixture of various influences of the peoples Čenej that have been living in Vojvodina for cen- Telephone 021/71 47 04, turies. These various influences ensure that 064/87 39 103 the cuisine of Naš Salaš is both special and Website: www.nassalas.co.rs unique. Email: info@nassalas.co.rs The natural ambience of the farmstead’s location is unusual in itself for the plains: the restaurant is surrounded by a deep pine forest, while the rustic interior of the restaurant is ennobled with romantic, uniquely designed lights. Just as it should be, the focal point of this restaurant is reserved for the impressive winery, which, for the glory of good wines, is adorned with a fretwork of vine motifs. The sounds of tamburica (lute) music make an integral part of the Vojvodina hedonism at Naš Salaš. Either before or after dining, guests of the restaurant can take advantage of the nearby stud farm. A unique peculiarity of the salaš’s offer is the chance to take a panoramic flight over the plain by sky machine – in replicas of German Storch (Stork) surveying aircraft from 1936. Naš Salaš is located at 325 Međunarodni Put (International Road), in the vicinity of Čenej, some 15 kilometres from Novi Sad and 90 kilometres from Belgrade.

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

tno restoran Naš salaš jedinstven je i originalan kompleks protkan etničkim obeležjima vojvođanskog područja. Kulinarska ponuda se temelji na mešavini različitih uticaja naroda koji su vekovima živeli u Vojvodini. Upravo ti raznovrsni uticaji čine kuhinju Našeg salaša posebnom i izuzetnom. Sam prirodni ambijent u kojem se nalazi kompleks neobičan je za ravnicu – restoran je okružen gustom borovom šumom, a rustični enterijer restorana oplemenjen je romantičnim svetlima unikatno projektovanog osvetljenja. Kako i dolikuje, centralno mesto u prostoru restorana zauzima impresivna vinoteka, koja je u slavu dobrih vina ukrašena duborezom sa motivima vinove loze. Sastavni deo vojvođanskog hedonizma Našeg salaša čine zvuci tamburaške muzike. Gostima restorana – pre ili posle obeda – na raspolaganju je i ergela konja, a kuriozitet ponude je panoramski let iznad ravnice u „nebeskim mašinama“ – replikama aviona roda – nemačke izviđačke letelice iz 1936. godine. Naš salaš nalazi se na međunarodnom putu 325, pored naselja Čenej, udaljen 15 kilometara od Novog Sada i 90 kilometara od Beograda.

TOS RECOMMENDS: HOMELAND GALLERIES | THE NADEŽDA PETROVIĆ ART GALLERY

THE POWER OF TENDERNESS The paintings of Nadežda Petrović, arguably Serbia’s most important early 20th century artist, introduced Serbian art to contemporary European artistic trends. Her work radiates tremendous expression, power and courage, while her life was filled with warmth, humanity and sacrifice.

adezda Petrovic was born in Čačak on 11th October, 1873, the eldest of nine children born to father Dimitrije-Mita Petrović, a teacher of drawing at the Čačak High school, and Mileva Petrović nee-Zorić, a teacher of history and literature at the same school. Ten years after Nadežda’s birth, the family returned to Belgrade, to the home of her paternal grandfather. At the time the house served as a kind of a meeting place for Belgrade artists and intellectuals. In such an environment, with advice and support from Đorđe Krstić (her father’s friend and the most important representative of Realism in Serbian painting), Nadežda’s exceptional talent matured. She decided to continue her education abroad, where she was able to feel the beating pulse of the newly emerging European art scene. FIRST MODERN SERBIAN LANDSCAPES After graduating from the Higher Education School for Women in 1898, Nadežda set out from her small and artistically-dormant milieu to Munich, where she remained until 1903. It is there that she first came into contact with the Secession style, as well as the internationally oriented Jugendstil. Later, during her time in Paris (1910-1912), she learned of the basic artistic freedoms that the emerging 20th century was bringing. As she came to better know and understand the artistic and spiritual situation in Europe, so she was also able to

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sense the vital trends of new art and display the courage to adopt an informed and independent opinion on these matters. As early as 1900 she became the first to introduce colour as a predominant element of expression in chromatically modest Serbian painting, while she was soon producing the first modern Serbian landscapes and portraits. That same year, following the first individual exhibition of her works in Belgrade, Nadežda had to overcome feelings of bitterness prompted by a lack of understanding and rejection from her own circles. She understood the extent to which her own culture was unwilling to accept artistic innovations and did everything to bridge the enormous gap between the two cultures she considered her own: her native Serbian culture, which she was so profoundly attached to, and the European culture, whose artistic avant-garde she was a part of by virtue of her work and way of thinking. She became comprehensively involved in the artistic, cultural and political life of then contemporary Belgrade and Serbia. Aside from being a painter, writer and regular teacher of the arts, she also participated wholeheartedly in the creation and organisation of humanitarian and artistic associations the Circle of Serbian Sisters, 1903; the Serbian Artists’ Association Lada, 1904, as well as artistic exhibitions and colonies such as the First Yugoslav Artistic Exhibition, 1904; First Yugoslav Artistic Colony, Sićevo, Serbia, 1905. She was a true patriot and an advocate for the unification of the

The memorial room of Nadežda Petrović in her official gallery Serbian people, an originator of many patriotic activities and, when the situation demanded, a passionate orator, warrior and volunteer nurse. She died on 3rd April, 1915 while attending to Serbian soldiers suffering from typhoid in Valjevo Military hospital. At the declaration of the First World War in 1914, she found herself in Italy. She had just recovered from typhoid, which she had contracted during the 1913 epidemic in Skopje. However, that could not prevent her from returning immediately to the homeland and resuming her duties as a military nurse – a job she carried out until the very end.

NATURAL HARMONY OF RED AND GREEN The art of Nadežda Petrović has found its greatest range in the Expressionist and Fauvist conceptual framework, where colour is predominantly used to carry and translate the artistic experience of time and space. Through the language of pure art, without embellishments or artism, Nadežda’s paintings would bring forth the essential characteristics and most important traits of the landscapes and faces she portrayed in Bavaria, Paris or Serbia, thus creating works of exceptional and lasting value that are ranked among the highest achievements in the history of modern painting. She did this while introducing Serbian painting to modern European artistic trends at the beginning of the 20th century. The Nadežda Petrović Art Gallery in Cacak and, in particular, the traditional Memorial to Nadežda Petrović event (founded in 1960), represent unique, live monuments dedicated to Nadežda Petrović. In their own way, they extend her artistic and humanistic commitments. The Nadežda Petrović Art Gallery respects the painters’ legacy of high aesthetic and ethical criteria and, through its programmes, nurtures creativity as an expression of free interpretation of spiritual content, as well as the most open-minded communication between individuals and peoples. The gallery is particularly open to innovative artistic activity and marks and cultivates Nadežda Petrović’s avant-garde status. As such, the gallery goes beyond the customary position of museums as memorial collections, adopting instead an approach that confirms the on-going relevance, greatness and lasting value of Petrović’s work by respecting and applying her universal artistic attitude. www.nadezdapetrovic.rs DANIJEL MIKIĆ

A FEW GOOD REASONS TO VISIT ČAČAK THE CHURCH OF CHRIST'S ASSUMPTION The Church of the Virgin Mary of Gradac in Čačak, constructed at the end of the 12th century, is a legacy of Duke Stracimir, brother of Grand Duke Stefan Nemanja. It ranks amongst the oldest and largest Orthodox churches and is known for its interesting architectural design. The church’s treasury preserves liturgical objects of great historical and artistic value, in particular the Four Gospels from Čačak. NATIONAL MUSEUM Čačak’s National Museum was founded in 1952 at the Palace of Jovan Obrenović. The permanent display presents artefacts from prehistoric periods (objects from the Bronze Age and Iron Age – the Mound Necropolis in the village of Mojsinje; the Illyrian Princely Mounds at Atenica), artefacts from the Roman period, the First and Second Serbian Uprisings, as well as from the Serbian Liberation wars of the 19th and 20th centuries.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES The value of archaeological sites that are a lure for archaeological tourism date back to prehistoric and Roman times. The most notable are Necropolises under the Mounds, The Illyrian Princely Mounds, Roman hot baths and Gradina. CULTURAL AND HISTORIC MONUMENTS A unique monument dedicated to the soldiers of the First World War is to be found at the Čačak graveyard. It is known as the Monument of Four Faiths, as each of the monument’s four sides carries a different religious symbol: Orthodox and Catholic crosses, an Islamic Crescent and a Jewish Star of David. It was erected in 1934 as a collective crypt to commemorate the fallen Serbian and enemy soldiers in the wars from 1912 to 1918.

fauna, exquisite landscape variety and rich memorial heritage, which is reflected in as many as ten medieval monasteries. The Ovčar Spa, located in the heart of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, is an idyllic oasis for a holiday. THE ATOMIC SPA - GORNJA TREPČA The spa lies in an outstanding geographical location at high altitude. Thermal and mineral springs, coupled with its proximity to Čačak (18 kilometres), make it a centre of health tourism. INFO Tourist Organisation of Čačak Trg ustanka 4, 32 000 Čačak toc@ptt.rs www.to-cacak.com

OVČAR-KABLAR GORGE The gorge is only a few kilometres from Čačak. it has been declared a region of outstanding natural beauty, due to its rich and diverse flora and

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Old gazebo in Prizren, 1913

TO S P R E P O R U Č U J E – Z AV I Č A J N E G A L E R I J E | G A L E R I J A N A D E Ž D E P E T R O V I Ć

SNAGA NEŽNOSTI Slikarstvo Nadežde Petrović, našeg najznačajnijeg umetnika s početka 20. veka, uvodi srpsku umetnost u tokove savremene evropske umetnosti. Njeno delo zrači strahovitom ekspresijom, snagom i hrabrošću, dok je njen život ispunjen toplinom, humanošću i požrtvovanjem.

adežda Petrović je rođena u Čačku 11. oktobra 1873, kao prvo od devetoro dece Dimitrija – Mite Petrovića, nastavnika crtanja u čačanskoj gimnaziji, i Mileve, devojačko Zorić, nastavnice istorije i književnosti u istoj školi. Desetak godina posle Nadeždinog rođenja porodica se vratila u Beograd, u kuću njenog dede, koja je u to vreme bila svojevrsno stecište beogradskih umetnika i intelektualaca. U takvom okruženju, uz pouke i podršku Đorđa Krstića, očevog prijatelja i najznačajnijeg slikara realizma u srpskom slikarstvu, sazrevao je njen izraziti talenat, i odluka da školovanje nastavi u inostranstvu i da na licu mesta oseti impulse nove evropske umetnosti koja se rađala. PRVI MODERNI SRPSKI PEJZAŽI Posle svršene Više ženske škole, Nadežda se 1898. godine, iz male i likovno nerazvijene sredine, uputila u Nemačku, u Minhen, gde ostaje do 1903. godine. Tu se srela sa secesijom, sa internacionalistički orijentisanim jugendstilom, a kasnije, u Parizu (1910 – 1912), i sa osnovnim umetničkim slobodama što ih je donosio nastupajući dvadeseti vek. Upoznala je i razumela evropsku duhovnu

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i umetničku situaciju, umela da oseti vitalne tokove nove umetnosti i imala hrabrosti da se prema njima postavi. Već 1900. godine ona je u hromatski oskudno srpsko slikarstvo prva unela boju kao dominantan izražajni element i ubrzo naslikala prve moderne srpske pejzaže i portrete. Iste godine, posle svoje prve samostalne izložbe u Beogradu, osetila je gorčinu nerazumevanja i odbacivanja sredine, shvatila težinu njene nespremnosti da prihvati umetničke novine i činila sve da smanji ogroman raskorak između dve kulture kojima je pripadala: srpske, koju je duboko volela, i evropske, čijoj je umetničkoj avangardi svojim delom i načinom razmišljanja pripadala. Svestrano je učestvovala u formiranju umetničkog, kulturnog i političkog života u tadašnjem Beogradu i Srbiji. Pored slikarstva, pisanja i redovne nastavničke dužnosti, nesebično je bila angažovana u pokretanju i organizovanju humanističkih i umetničkih udruženja (Kolo srpskih sestara, 1903, Društvo srpskih umetnika Lada, 1904), likovnih izložbi i kolonija (Prva jugoslovenska umetnička izložba, 1904, Prva jugoslovenska umetnička kolonija, Sićevo 1905). Bila je iskreni rodoljub i pobornik ujedinjenja srpskog naroda, pokretač mnogih patriotskih akcija, a kada je to trebalo, vatreni govornik, ratnik i dobrovoljna bolničarka. Umrla je

3. aprila 1915. godine lečeći srpske vojnike od tifusa u Valjevskoj vojnoj bolnici. Objava rata 1914. godine nju je zatekla u Italiji. Bila se oporavila od tifusa preležanog u Skoplju za vreme epidemije 1913, što je nije sprečilo da se odmah vrati u zemlju, opet na dužnost vojne bolničarke, na kojoj je ostala do svoga kraja. U PRIRODNOM SKLADU CRVENE I ZELENE Najveći domet svoje umetnosti Nadežda Petrović ostvarila je u koncepciji ekspresionističko-fovističkog slikarstva, gde je boja glavni nosilac i tumač umetničkog doživljaja vremena i prostora. Jezikom osamostaljene likovnosti, bez ulepšavanja i artizma, na površinu slike iznosila je suštinske osobine i najvažnije crte predela i lica koja je slikala u Bavarskoj, Parizu ili Srbiji, stvorivši dela izuzetne i trajne vrednosti, koja se dovode u kontekst vrhunskih dometa istorije modernog slikarstva, dela kojima je srpsko slikarstvo početkom dvadesetog veka uvela u tokove evropske moderne umetnosti. Umetnička galerija „Nadežda Petrović“ u Čačku, i posebno Memorijal Nadežde Petrović (osnovan 1960), tradicionalna likovna manifestacija, jedinstveni su, živi spomenici Nadeždi Petrović, koji na specifičan način produžavaju njena umetnička i ljudska opredeljenja. Poštujući visoke estetske i etičke kriterijume koje je ostavila u nasleđe – Umetnička galerija „Nadežda Petrović“ svojim programom neguje stvaralaštvo kao izraz slobodne interpretacije duhovnog sadržaja i kao najotvoreniju komunikaciju među ljudima i narodima. Otvorena baš za inovativne prakse, Galerija pamti i neguje avangardnost Nadežde Petrović, čime prevazilazi poziciju uobičajene spomen-zbirke – muzeja, već i danas, poštujući i primenjujući njene univerzalne umetničke stavove, potvrđuje stalnu aktuelnost, veličinu i trajnost njenog dela. www.nadezdapetrovic.rs DANIJEL MIKIĆ

Nadežda Petrović working as a combat nurse, Prizren 1913.

NEKOLIKO DOBRIH RAZLOGA DA POSETITE ČAČAK HRAM VAZNESENJA HRISTOVOG Bogorodica Gradačka, crkva u Čačku, podignuta je krajem XII veka. Zadužbina je kneza Stratimira, brata Stefana Nemanje. Ubraja se u najstarije i najveće pravoslavne hramove zanimljivih arhitektonskih rešenja. U svojoj riznici čuva dragocene bogoslužbene predmete velike istorijske i umetničke vrednosti, a među njima je i Čačansko četvorojevanđelje. NARODNI MUZEJ Narodni muzej osnovan je 1952. godine u konaku Jovana Obrenovića. Postavka sadrži predmete iz praistorijskog doba (predmeti iz bronzanog i gvozdenog doba – nekropola pod humkama Mojsinje; Ilirske kneževske humke iz Atenice), zatim predmete iz rimskog doba, vremena Prvog i Drugog srpskog ustanka i oslobodilačkih ratova srpskog naroda u XIX i XX veku.

ARHEOLOŠKI LOKALITETI Arheološki nalazi kao arheološke turističke vrednosti potiču iz praistorijskog i rimskog doba. Najvrednije su ''Nekropole pod humkama'', ''Ilirske kneževske humke'', ''Rimske terme'' i ''Gradina''. KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI SPOMENICI Spomenik ratnicima Prvog svetskog rata nalazi se na Čačanskom groblju i jedinstven je u svetu. Na spomeniku su na jednoj strani pravoslavni, na drugoj katolički krst, na trećoj islamski polumesec, a na četvrtoj jevrejska šestokraka zvezda. Podignut je 1934. godine kao zajednička grobnica srpskih i neprijateljskih vojnika izginulih u ratovima od 1912. do 1918. godine. OVČARSKO-KABLARSKA KLISURA Nalazi se na svega nekoliko kilometara udaljenosti od Čačka. Zbog svojih prirodnih lepota, bogate

i raznovrsne flore i faune, izvanredne pejzažne raznolikosti i bogatog spomeničkog nasleđa, koje čini čak deset srednjovekovnih manastira, proglašena je za predeo izuzetnih odlika. Ovčar Banja, u srcu Ovčarsko-kablarske klisure, idealna je oaza za odmor. ATOMSKA BANJA – GORNJA TREPČA Izuzetan geografski položaj, nadmorska visina i izvori termo-mineralne vode, na 18. kilometru od Čačka, predstavlja centar zdravstvenog turizma. INFO Javna ustanova "Turistička organizacija Čačka" 32 000 Čačak, Trg ustanka 4 e-mail: toc@ptt.rs web site: www.to-cacak.com

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TO S R E CO M M E N D S: A WEEKEND IN SERBIA | NIŠ

ROYAL FAIRY CITY How did Niš get its name? Where did the names Nissa, Nais, Naissus, Urbs Naisitana originate from and what do they mean? Was it the Dardanians who named this city such; or were they Dacians, Mesians, Tribals, Scordisci, Illyrians that gave the old city these names?

egend has it that a Dardanian by the name of Niša built a gorgeous town of stone quarried from a nearby hillock. There is logic in the claim that the name Navissos is a Celtic term meaning Fairy Town, while the Nišava refers to the Fairy River. Around the time of the birth of Christ, Rome conquered the area and the city’s name was first recorded as Naissus, while the Slavs later adjusted that name to their language and called the city Niš. Niš has always been a crucial and unavoidable crossroads connecting the Mediterranean, Central Europe, the Black Sea and the Adriatic... The road of salt, the road of precious metals, rare goods, human spirit – magical fairy tales; one could imagine it as such. The city is known around the world as the birthplace of Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, who was born on 26th February, 280A.D. Under the Edict of Milan (Edictum Mediolanensium), signed by Constantine the Great in 313A.D., Christianity was granted equal status alongside other religions in the great empire. As the great emperor's hometown, Niš is preparing for 2013, when the city will celebrate the 1,700th anniversary of the signing of the Edict of Milan – one of the most important events in the history of Christianity. During the Middle Ages, Niš was a Christian town on the borders of Byzantium, Hungary and Serbia. It was a very important city in medieval Serbia, not only as a fortification standing on the strategic crossroads defending one of Europe's most important transport junctions, but also as the cradle of Serbian spirituality and culture. The city of Niš was conquered in 1385 by the Turks and from 1448 until 1878 it remained within the Turkish Ottoman Empire. In the period from 1719 to 1723, the Turks built the well-known Tower of Niš on the right bank of

the Nišava River. Nowadays, the interior of the fortress includes a number of facilities adapted and adjusted to modern needs. The building that housed the Arsenal in 1857 now houses the Art Pavilion, the 14th century Bali Beg Mosque is now Salon 77, while one of the city’s administration bodies is located in the complex of the Pasha’s Palace (Pašin Konak). The Fortress gained a summer stage in 1957. There traditional events take place, such as the Festival of Acting Achievements, the Choir Festival and the Summer Music Festival Nišomania. EMPEROR CONSTANTINE’S HOMELAND The City of Niš Museum is one of the richest and most important museums in Serbia. Of a wide range of monuments in Niš, the most important

are undoubtedly Medijana and the Tower of Skulls (Ćele kula). Medijana was the summer residence of Constantine the Great. Only a very small part of this complex has been researched archaeologically, but items unearthed include the remains of the royal palace, baptistery, granary, water tower, thermal springs and a pagan temple. Extraordinary mosaics represent the Gorgona Medusa and the deity of waters. The Tower of Skulls (Ćele kula) in Niš is a unique monument in Europe. Namely, it was customary for the nomadic peoples of Asia to build towers from the skulls of the enemies they defeated in battle. During the First Serbian Uprising, following the Battle of Čegar in 1809, the Turks built a tower from the skulls of slaughtered Serbian soldiers in order to frighten the local population. However, this creepy testimony to the cruelties of war soon turned into a monument of freedom. A monument in the shape of a tower – the symbol of military fortification – was erected in 1927 and has been under state protection as a cultural heritage site of utmost importance. CURING WATERS AND PICNIC AREAS Niš's spas represent a special feature of the area. The major, world renowned Niška Banja spa and its healing waters have been known for thousands of years. Indeed, the spa supplied the Roman town of Medijana with water. Today the spa is a town of its own with a modern health centre. Apart from rehabilitation for heart disease patients, sufferers of vascular problems or those in post-trauma and post-operation conditions, the institute also offers many preventative and wellness programmes. Topilo is an interesting spa in some other respect; its seven wells have proved themselves worthy in folk and medical practice.

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angling – who will also find an ideal spot here. There are sports fields and courts near the Sićevo Hotel, as well as over twenty churches and monasteries of great historical and cultural significance located in the ravine. The Sićevac Ravine is a special natural reserve, while the Jelašnica Ravine, with its attractive stone outcrops and waterfalls, is home to the beautiful flowering Ramonda Serbica plant, which predates the last ice age. The Cerjanska Pećina cave is a treasure of cave delights the likes of which can seldom be found. Other caves in the area include Popšička, Prekonoška and Samar Pećina. For the time being, these caves are only part of potholing and adventurous tour offers. BELGUEST photographs: DRAGAN BOSNIĆ

MUST DO/MUST SEE When you are in Niš, don’t miss: - a visit to the Medijana summer house - a stroll around the old fortress - a visit to the Tower of Skulls museum - a drink at Kazandžijsko Sokače(Coppersmith’s Alley) - the view from Kamenički vis & a tour of the monument

And where can you go for a picnic, apart from the area's spas and famous vineyards? The choice is vast. The Sićevac Ravine is a 17-kilometre-long canyon ideal for canoing and rafting, mountaineering and fishing. Those who enjoy paragliding, free climbing, potholing and other extreme sports will find great opportunities to indulge their hobbies in the Niš area. The same can be said for those who prefer picnicking, walking in nature, hunting or

The Niš Fortress was constructed at the beginning of the 18th century

This article has been created through co-operation between the Tourist Organisation of Serbia and the Tourist Organisation of Niš INFO: Tourist Organisation of Niš Voždova 7, 18000 Niš Tel: +381 (0)18/ 521 321, 523 118 ton1@hadlanu.com, ton2@nadlanu.com www.nistourism.org.rs TIC Niška Banja Sinđelićeva 3b Tel: +381 (0)18/ 4548 588

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T O S

P R E P O R U Č U J E

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VILINSKI I CARSKI GRAD Kako je Niš dobio ime? Odakle Nissa, Nais, Naissus, urbs Naisitana? Šta sva ta imena znače? Da li su ovaj grad tako zvali Dardanci, ili Dačani, Mezi, Tribali, Skordisci, Iliri?

ostoji priča da je neki Dardanac po imenu Niša kamenom sa obližnje humske čuke koji je doneo u dolinu, sagradio predivan grad. Nije nelogična tvrdnja da je ime Navissos keltsko i da označava Vilinski grad, a Nišava Vilinsku reku. Negde oko godine Hristovog rođenja Rimljani su pokorili ovo mesto i tada je, kao ime grada prvi put zabeleženo – Naissus. To ime su Sloveni prilagodili svom jeziku – nazvavši ga Niš. Niš je oduvek ključna i neizbežna raskrsnica puteva kojima se povezuju Mediteran i srednja Evropa, Crno more i Jadran... Put soli, put dragocenih metala, retkih roba, ljudskog duha – čarobno,

vilinski, mogao bi i tako da se zamišlja. Grad u svetu posebno poznat po činjenici da se u njemu 26. februara 280. godine naše ere rodio car Konstantin, rimski imperator koji je Milanskim ediktom 313. godine hrišćanstvu priznao ravnopravnost sa ostalim religijama u velikom carstvu. Kao zavičajni grad velikog cara, Niš se sprema da 2013. godine obeleži veliki događaj u istoriji hrišćanstva – 1700 godina od potpisivanja Milanskog edikta. Niš je tokom srednjeg veka bio hrišćanski grad i nalazio se u granicama Vizantije, Bugarske, Ugarske i Srbije. U srednjovekovnoj Srbiji bio je izuzetno važan grad, ne samo kao tvrđava na

velikoj raskrsnici, koja brani jednu od najznačajnijih saobraćajnica Evrope, već i kao kolevka srpske duhovnosti i kulture. Grad Niš je 1385. godine prvi put pao u ruke Turaka, a od 1448, pa sve do 1878. godine i ostao u sastavu Osmanlijskog carstva. Od 1719. do 1723. godine Turci su na desnoj obali Nišave izgradili poznatu Nišku tvrđavu. Danas se u unutrašnjosti utvrđenja nalaze brojni objekti koji su adaptirani i prilagođeni savremenim potrebama. Tako je u zgradi Arsenala iz 1857. smešten Umetnički paviljon, u džamiji Bali Bega iz 14. veka je Salon 77, a u kompleksu Pašinog konaka smeštena je jedna od gradskih uprava. Godine 1957. na

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The healing water of the Niš Spa

Emperor Constantine the Great was born in Niš in 280AD prostoru Tvrđave sagrađena je Letnja pozornica, gde se tradicionalno održavaju: Festival glumačkih ostvarenja, Horske svečanosti i Letnji muzički festival Nisomnia. U ZAVIČAJU CARA KONSTANTINA Muzej grada Niša je jedan od najznačajnijih i najbogatijih u Srbiji. Iz široke lepeze značajnih spomenika pored Tvrđave, posebno treba izdvojiti Medijanu i Ćele-kulu. Medijana je bila carski letnjikovac Konstantina Velikog. Arheološki je istražen veoma mali deo tog kompleksa, otkriveni su ostaci carske palate, krstionice, žitnice, vodotornja, termi i paganskog hrama. Tu se mogu videti izuzetni mozaici, poput onih koji predstavljaju gorgonu Meduzu i božanstvo voda. Ćele-kula je jedinstven spomenik u Evropi. Naime, u Aziji su nomadski narodi imali običaj da prave kule od glava u ratu pobeđenih neprijatelja, a u toku Prvog srpskog ustanka Turci su, posle bitke na brdu Čegar 1809. godine, da bi zaplašili Srbe, od glava pobijenih srpskih vojnika načinili sličnu kulu. Međutim, to jezivo svedočanstvo ratnih surovosti

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pretvorilo se vrlo brzo u spomenik slobodi. Tokom 1927. godine podignut je spomenik u obliku kule simbola vojnog utvrđenja i pod zaštitom je države kao kulturno dobro od izuzetnog značaja. LEKOVITE VODE I IZLETIŠTA NIŠA Posebna odlika Niša su njegove banje. Za onu veliku, poznatu u svetu, Nišku banju, za njene lekovite vode zna se hiljadama godina. Iz te banje vodom je snabdevana Medijana. Danas je to grad, a u njemu moderno lečilište, Institut, koji pored rehabilitacije srčanih bolesnika, oboljenja krvnih sudova i posttraumatskih i postoperativnih stanja, ima i mnoge preventivne i velnes

NE TREBA PROPUSTITI Kada ste u Nišu nikako ne smete propustiti: - obilazak carskog letnjikovca Medijana - šetnju starom tvrđavom - obilazak muzeja Ćele-kula - piće u Kazandžijskom sokačetu - vidikovac Kamenički vis i obilazak spomenika na Čegru

programe. Topilo je na drugi način zanimljiva banja. Njenih sedam izvora je dokazano u narodnoj i medicinskoj praksi. A gde još može da se ide na izlet pored banja i čuvenih vinograda? Izbor je širok. Sićevačka klisura je kanjon dug 17 kilometara, idealan za kajakaše i rafting, planinarenje i ribolov. Ljubitelji paraglajdinga, fri-klajmbinga, speleologije i drugih ekstremnih sportova u okolini Niša naći će izuzetne mogućnosti za svoj hobi. Baš kao što će i oni koji vole izlet, šetnju u prirodi, lov, sportski ribolov... naći svoje idealno mesto Kod hotela su i sportski tereni, a u klisuri se nalazi i više od 20 crkava i manastira velikog istorijskog i kulturnog značaja. Sićevačka klisura je specijalni rezervat prirode, Jelašnička klisura takođe, sa atraktivnim kamenim oblicima i vodopadima, koja je i utočište biljke prelepog cveta Ramonda Serbica, starije od oslednjeg ledenog doba. Cerjanska pećina je riznica pećinskog nakita kakav se retko gde još može naći, a tu su u blizini i Popšička, Prekonoška i Samar pećina. One se, za sada, nalaze samo u speleološkoj ponudi i avanturističkim turama. BELGUEST fotografije: DRAGAN BOSNIĆ Tekst je nastao u saradnji sa Turističkom organizacijom Srbije i Turističkom organizacijom Niša

INFO | NIŠ

TOURIST ORGANISATION OF NIŠ TPC Kalča II sprat, lam C/lok 62 18000 Niš Tel. +381 (0)18 524-877 ton@nistourism.org.rs www.nistourism.org.rs

HOTELI ALEKSANDAR *** tel. (+381 18) 562-333, F.562-056 Njegoševa 81 a info@hotel-aleksandar.com www.hotel-aleksandar.com AMBASADOR *** tel. (+381 18) 501-800,501-997 Trg Kralja Milana bb office@srbijaturist.com www.srbijaturist.com COMPLEX VIDIKOVAC tel. (+381 18) 4591-336,f.4592532 Mokranjčeva 70 vidikovacdoo@yahoo.com NAIS,*** tel. (+381 18) 601-599,601-030, Auto put Nis-Beograd office@srbijaturist.com www.srbijaturist.com NIŠKI CVET tel. (+381 18) 297-700 297-800 Kej 29. decembar ofiice@niskicvet.com www.niskicvet.com MY PLACE- BEST WESTERN **** tel. (+381 18) 525-555,f 295-295 Kej 29. decembar bb hotel@hotelmyplace.com www.hotelmyplace.com PANORAMA LUX***

tel. (+381 18) 561-214, F 560-907 Svetolika Rankovića 51 info@paporamalux.co.rs www.panoramalux.co.rs THE REGENT CLUB**** tel. (+381 18) 521-001,fax. 524-924 Obrenovićeva 10, PC GORČA recepcija@regentclub.com www.regentclub.com

PRENOĆIŠTA BRANKOV KONAK tel. (+381 18) 552-776,234 560 Bul. Cara Konstantina 36 EVROPA- hostel tel. (+381 18) 565-156,fax. 565156 Leskovačka bb EXTRA LION MD tel. (+381 18) 570-010, Knjaževačka 28A extralionmd@nadlanu.com www.motellionmd.co.rs GARDEN tel. (+381 18) 236-165 Vojislava Ilica HOSTEL DOMA UČENIKA tel. (+381 18) 4 576-920 kosovke devojke hostel@torunigeuropa.co.rs www.touringeuropa.co.rs/hostel

Bul. Cara Konstantina 72 KONSTANTIN tel. (+381 18) 4272-626, 4272-625 Knjaževačka15 prenociste_konstantin@yahoo.com KONAK DUO D tel. (+381 18) fax.517-704 , 517701 Ul. Kopitareva 7 hotel-duod@my-its.net www.konak-duod.com MARVEL- hostel tel. (+381 18) 263-242,265-674 12. Srpske brigade marvelnis@sezampro.yu www.hostelmarvel.com MAJESTY APARTMENYTS tel. (+381 18) 519-755 519-756 Cvijiceva 27 info@majestyapartments.com Pansion DADORA tel. (+381 18) 264-573, mob.064/1383844 Vojvode Bojovića 1 PORTA tel. (+381 18) 540-002 Bul. Cara Konstantina bb PRIVATNI SMEŠTAJ B&B tel. (+381 18) 200072,063/637353 Žikice Španca 14

HOSTEL NIŠ tel. (+381 18) 513-703 Dobrička 3a hostelnis@sezampro.yu www.hostelnis.com

RILE MEN tel. (+381 18) 528-522, F 516-633 Ul. Vojvode Mišića 111 sasa.rilemen.ristic@gmail.com www.rilemen.com

INTERNACIONAL tel. (+381 18) 230-084, 223-982

VTOURS tel. (+381 18) 292-960, 063/454350

Djuke Dinić 4 VILA SRBIJA tel. (+381 18) 594-863 , 062/8502347 Partizanskih kurira 6 ZELENI VIR tel. (+381 18) 4561-558,f. 562-557 Toplickih partizan. odreda bb hotelzelenivir@nadlanu.com

NIŠKA BANJA INSTITUT NIŠKA BANJA *** tel. (+381 18) 502-010,502-046 Srpskih Junaka 2 radonnb@eunet.yu www.radonnb.co.yu OZREN, Niška Banja *** tel. (+381 18) 4549-008 Trg republike bb zlazarevic@srbijaturist.com www.srbijaturist.com TERME tel. (+381 18) 502-078

OKOLINA SIĆEVO, prenociste tel. (+381 18) 671-066, fax.236-532 Medjunarnodni put NIŠ-SOFIJA 70 tgnis@ptt.yu STUDENAC, planin.dom tel. (+381 18) 649-939 BOJANINE VODE bojaninevode@yahoo.com www.bojaninevode.travel.to TREM, Donji Dušnik ** tel. (+381 18) 867-411 agencija@trem.co.yu www.trem.co.yu

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

BANJA LUKA

CITY OF EXTREME SPORTS

anja Luka, one of the regional centres of Republika Srpska, is famous for numerous reasons: its rich, interesting history that can be seen even today in this city lying in the vicinity of thermal waters that were even used in Roman times as part of the Kastel military fortification around which the city was formed. The waters run in front of the monument to the residents of Krajina killed during World War II, raised on the top of the Banj Hill that dominates the surrounding area, in front of the Clock Tower – the first public clock in Bosnia & Herzegovina – the Gymnasium grammar school, the Governor’s Castle and in front of the monument dedicated to love – Safikada’s Tomb. Another clock, this one in Krajisnici Square, displays to this day the precise time that Banja Luka was struck by a devastating earthquake on 27th October, 1969. Because of its abundant and ubiquitous trees and lawns, Banja Luka is known as The City of Greenery. This is the only place where dajaci (unusual Punt-like boats) can be seen nowadays. In the dajaci young men would float through the city along the winding River Vrbas with their girlfriends, using poles pushed against the river bed to propel them along. The city’s main pedestrian walkway,

Gospodska Street, is full of joyful sounds, tranquillity and harmonious life. Banja Luka is an ideal destination for a holiday break. Of all its many potential highlights, we will single out just the River Vrbas Canyon; Mount Manjaca to the south and Kozara to the north; the waterfalls of the River Krupa as it flows into the Vrbas; three spas: Srpske Toplice, Slatina and Laktasi; the medieval town of Greben and wooden churches. However, Banja Luka is also a city of sports, which is proven by a rich sporting history that places the City on the River Vrbas at the top of European sports centres. The Tourist Organisation of Banja Luka recently presented the city and its surroundings as the ideal destination for extreme sports devotees. This year’s Rafting World Cup is confirmation of that. The natural resources of Banja Luka and its surroundings are ideal for paragliding, climbing and mountain biking, while rafting along the River Vrbas – organised by the Canyon Rafting Club – has already become a trademark of Banja Luka. www.banjaluka-tourism.com

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

BANJA LUKA

GRAD EKSTREMNIH SPORTOVA

anjaluka, jedan od regionalnih centara Republike Srpske, poznata je po mnogo čemu: po zanimljivoj i bogatoj istoriji koja se i danas čita na licu grada, po izvoru termalnih voda, korišćenih još u vreme Rimljana, unutar vojnog utvrđenja Kastel, oko koga je grad i nastao, po spomeniku palim Krajišnicima u Drugom svetskom ratu podignutom na vrhu Banj brda, koje dominira okolinom, ili po Sahat-kuli, prvom javnom časovniku u Bosni i Hercegovini, Sokolskom domu, Banskoj upravi, Banskom dvoru, ili po spomeniku ljubavi – Safikadinom grobu. Jedan drugi sat, Spomen-sat na trgu Krajišnika, i danas pokazuje vreme kada je 27. oktobra 1969. godine Banja Luku pogodio katastrofalni zemljotres. Zbog svog bujnog i sveprisutnog drveća i travnatih površina Banja Luka je poznata i kao „grad zelenila". Samo još tu možete pronaći neobične čamce, nalik gondolama – dajake, kojima su mladići, odupirući se dugim motkama o dno Vrbasa, vijugave reke što protiče kroz grad, plovili sa svojim devojkama. Glavnim gradskim šetalištem, ulicom Gospodskom, danas se čuje veseli

žamor mirnog i stabilnog života. Svim svojim potencijalima, i okolinom, a izdvojićemo samo kanjon Vrbasa, sa planinom Manjačom na jugu i Kozarom na severu, slapove Krupe pre no što se ulije u Vrbas, tri banje: Srpske toplice, Slatina i Laktaši, srednjovekovni grad Greben, crkve brvnare – Banja Luka je savršeno mesto za odmor. Ali je to i grad sportova. Da je zaista tako potvrđuje bogata sportska istorija, koja grad na Vrbasu svrstava u sam vrh sportskih centara Evrope. Turistička organizacija Banja Luke nedavno je predstavila ovaj grad sa okolinom kao idealno mesto za ljubitelje ekstremnih sportova. Ovogodišnje Svetsko prvenstvo u raftingu to samo potvrđuje. Prirodni potencijali Banja Luke i njenog okruženja idealni su za paraglajding, klajming, maunti bajk, a rafting na Vrbasu, u organizaciji rafting-kluba Kanjon, već je postao zaštitni znak Banja Luke. www.banjaluka-tourism.com BELGUEST

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

RAFTING ON THE VRBAS

ZONES OF PURE EXOTICISM This summer 's staging of the Rafting World Cup in Banja Luka turned attention to the remarkable potential of the River Vrbas, for all types of sporting, recreational and professional rafting; to Banja Luka, which, as the city's name suggests (luka means port), is the ideal port for accommodating and entertaining tourists heading for the Vrbas; and to the Canyon Rafting Club, which is the epicentre of all things related to rafting there.

or this part of the world, it would not be so unusual to find that lying behind this incredible story of endurance, sacrifice and exerted energy is one man. Aleksandar Pastir long ago learned of the advantages and peculiarities of the Vrbas for rafting – a sport that's in his blood anyway. There is ancient wisdom pronounced Pompeii, which defines life as based on one of its forms: Sail the sea, but live not for the sea! That thirst for travel, but not common travel, rather water-borne; secretly its the resident of our veins, but it's only at rare moments that it bubbles to the surfaces and is brought to life. Such a possibility, intrinsically offering all the important factors of travel and sailing, is also offered by rafting – as a close encounter of man with nature. With such a message within himself, Aleksandar Pastir built up the Canyon Rafting Club, handling any form of serious preoccupation with rafting. This type of energy was also recognised by those responsible for running tourism in Banja Luka and Republika Srpska. For the aforementioned rafting world championship, the River Vrbas received a professional, rounded and the only night-lit rafting course on a natural river in the world, with all the necessary infrastructure, lowering gear and lifts for boats.

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

Teams arrived from 28 European countries, as well as Australia, New Zealand, India, Indonesia, Japan, Peru, Kazakhstan, South Korea, the Philippines, the U.S. and South Africa. As many as 47 countries registered their teams, competing in four disciplines: sprint, head-2-head, downriver and slalom. The River Vrbas has become ecologically, sportingly and endemically recognisable throughout the world. Green and voluminous, while winding its course through the canyon's amazing beauty, then silent and bubbling, before starting to whisper and then getting louder and louder – until it drags you into its game of bucking and diving. The only "Man" among the rivers of the region, the Vrbas has a course with a total length of 21 kilometres suitable for rafting. The most attractive part is in the Tijesno Canyon, where the slalom route was laid. It offers the possibility to swim and rest. Beli buk, on the other hand, is tailored for high adrenaline. No wonder that some competitors in the World Rafting Championships came to a halt right here, looked around themselves and wished to spend some more time there, as Marisela from Costa

Rica says, in the zone of pure exoticism. The overriding impression is that it was the most well organised championships in the history of the International Rafting Federation. - We first started with sports rafting, cleaned the river, created a destination, staged the European Cup in 2005 and now a successful World Cup, five Euro-cups, the top leagues of Bosnia & Herzegovina, Republika Srpska; we've organised six environmental rafting regattas and completely protect the river. For me, it is very important to set standards, promote the river properly and place sports and tourist rafting where they deserve to be, said Aleksandar Pastir, President of the Rafting Federation of Bosnia & Herzegovina and one of the top figures of world rafting. In our constant craving for faraway destinations, we often fail to see that which is right in front of our eyes. The exotic River Vrbas is in our immediate vicinity. It needs only to be revealed and rafting is a great way to do that. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ

RAFTING NA VRBASU

PREDELIMA ČISTE EGZOTIKE Ovog leta održano Svetsko prvenstvo raftinga u Banjaluci skrenulo je pažnju na neverovatne potencijale Vrbasa za sve vrste sportskog, rekreativnog i profesionalnog raftinga, na Banjaluku, koja je, kako joj i samo ime kaže, prava luka za smeštaj i ugođaj turista koji se krenu ka Vrbasu, ali i na Rafting-klub "Kanjon", koji je epicentar svega vezanog za rafting.

a ove prostore ne tako neobična priča je i da je iza svega toga neverovatna, istrajna, predana i posvećena energija jednog čoveka. Aleksandar Pastir je davno uočio prednosti i blaga Vrbasa za rafting, koji mu je inače u zapisu pod kožom. Postoji drevna mudrost koju je izgovorio Pompej, a koja određuje život kao smisaon u jednom od njegovih oblika: Ploviti se mora, a živeti se ne mora! Ta žeđ za putovanjem, ali ne običnim, već plovidbom, pritajeni je stanovnik našeg krvotoka, ali su retki trenuci kada se ona izliva na površinu i ovaploćuje. Takvu mogućnost, koja u sebi sadrži sve bitne odrednice putovanja i plovidbe, nudi i rafting – kao blisko i potpuno suočavanje čoveka sa prirodom. Aleksandar Pastir je, noseći takvu poruku u sebi, izgradio Rafting-klub "Kanjon", uporište za bilo kakvo ozbiljnije bavljenje raftingom. Tu vrstu energije prepoznali su i ljudi koji vode turizam u Banjaluci i Republici Srpskoj. Za pomenuto svetsko prvenstvo u raftingu Vrbas je dobio profesionalnu, zaokruženu i jedinu noćnu, osvetljenu stazu za

rafting na prirodnim rekama u svetu, sa svom neophodnom infrastrukturom, silazima i liftovima za čamce. Pristigle su ekipe iz 28 evropskih zemalja, Australije, Novog Zelanda, Indije, Indonezije, Japana, Perua, Kazahstana, Južne Koreje, Filipina, Amerike i Južne Afrike. Čak 47 zemalja prijavilo je svoje reprezentacije, koje su se takmičile u četiri discipline: sprint, head 2 head, downriver i slalom. Vrbas je postao ekološki, sportski i endemski prepoznatljiv u celom svetu. Zelen, vijugav dok svojim tokom krči prolaz kroz kanjon nestvarne lepote, što malo ćuti, umiljava se, a onda krene da šapuće, pa sve glasnije govori – dok vas ne uvuče u svoju igru skakutanja penušavim bukovima. Jedini "muškarac" među rekama u okruženju, Vrbas je jednim delom svoga toka u dužini od 21 kilometra pogodan za rafting. Njegov najatraktivniji deo je kanjon Tijesno, gde je i napravljena slalom staza, koja nudi mogućnosti plivanja i odmaranja. Beli buk je predodređen za povišeni adrenalin. Nije ni čudo što su neki takmičari Svetskog prvenstva u raftingu baš ovde zastali, zagledali se oko

sebe i poželeli da provedu još neko vreme tu, kako kaže Marisela iz Kostarike, u predelima čiste egzotike. Utisci su da je to bilo najbolje organizovano prvenstvo u raftingu u istoriji Svetske federacije. "Mi smo najpre krenuli od sportskog raftinga, očistili reku, napravili destinaciju, održali Evropsko prvenstvo 2005. godine, a sada uspešno Svetsko prvenstvo, pet euro-kupova, više liga Bosne i Hercegovine, Republike Srpske, organizovali šest ekoloških rafting-regata, potpuno zaštitili reku. To što je meni posebno važno jeste da se postave standardi, prava promocija reke i da sportski i turistički rafting postavimo na mesta koja zaslužuju" – kaže Aleksandar Pastir, predsednik Rafting-saveza Bosne i Hercegovine i jedan od prvih ljudi svetskog raftinga. U nekoj stalnoj žudnji za dalekim destinacijama često ne umemo da vidimo ono što nam je pred očima. Egzotika Vrbasa je u našoj neposrednoj blizini. Treba samo da je otkrijemo. Rafting je odličan način za to. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ www.kanjonraft.com

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

HARMONY AND ADVENTURE BellaVista is a new, modern hotel. Built in 2003 in Bečići, Montenegro, it fully deserves the four-star category – firstly due to the high quality of its accommodation, then because of its exclusive culinary offer and a great number of additional services.

otel Bella Vista offers several different categories of rooms and apartments to satisfy all of its guests’ needs and standards. Within the Bella Vista complex there are 22 apartments, nine twin bedrooms and nine studios. Each standard room and apartment is INFO Hotel Bella Vista Marina Bečića b.b., BečićiBudva, Montenegro Tel: +382 (0)33 471-377, 471-378, 471-355 Fax: +382 (0)33 471-320 Email: bellavista@t-com.me

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

equipped with air-conditioning, TV with cable network, telephone, wireless internet, kitchen facilities and a safe. Our accommodation certainly offers high functionality and extreme commodity, representing the perfect choice for both tourists and business guests.

Every guest is granted access to the hotel car park. In the pleasant surroundings of an open terrace and restaurant, hotel Bella Vista offers top class gastronomic pleasures of national and international cuisine.

I MIR I AVANTURA BellaVista je nov, moderan hotel, sagrađen 2003. godine u Bečićima, koji s pravom zaslužuje četiri zvezdice, pre svega visokim kvalitetom smeštaja, ekskluzivnom ugostiteljskom ponudom i brojnim dodatnim uslugama.

otel BellaVista nudi više različitih tipova soba i apartmana koji će zadovoljiti i najraznovrsnije potrebe gostiju i njihove standarde. U sklopu kompleksa postoji: 22 apartmana, devet dvokrevetnih soba i devet studija. Svaka standardna soba i apartman opremljeni

su klima-uređajem, kablovskom televizijom, telefonom, wireless Internetom, kuhinjom, sefom i svakako će pružiti visoku funkcionalnost i izuzetan komfor, predstavljajući savršen izbor kako za turiste tako i za poslovne ljude. Za svakog gosta obezbeđen je hotelski parking prostor.

U prijatnom ambijentu otvorene terase i restorana, hotel BellaVista nudi vrhunski gastronomski užitak nacionalne i internacionalne kuhinje. BELGUEST

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

REGULAR BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING TOURS ORGANIZED BY TOB

BELGRADE BUS SIGHTSEEING TOURS Duration: 90 minute guided tour Itinerary: Belgrade City Assembly, National Parliament, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Trg, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade, Topcidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Slavija, Nikola Pasic’s Square Departure point: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Sunday at 10:00 am (in English) and 12:00 noon (in Serbian)

ROYAL PALACES Duration: two hour guided tour Itinerary: Bus ride to Dedinje, followed by a walking tour of the park, the Royal Palace and the White Palace Departure point: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Saturday and Sunday, at 10:30 am (in Serbian) and 1:30 pm (Serbian and English) Available: from April 1 to November 30 Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Makedonska 5, tel. 334 3460

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

WALKING TOUR OF THE OLD TOWN AND BELGRADE FORTRESS Duration: two hour guided tour Itinerary: Albanija Tower, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova Street, Kralja Petra Street, Kneza Sime Markovica Street, Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade Fortress (Gratitude to France Monument, Military Museum, The Victor Monument, Rudjer Boskovic Observatory, Ruzica Church, St. Paraskevi’s Chapel, Nebojsa Tower, Gate of Charles VI) Departure point: in front of Albanija Tower (at the entrance to Pedestrian Subway), every Saturday at 11:00 am (in Serbian) and 01:00 pm (in English) Available: from May 1 to October 15 Tickets: Tourist information Center, Terazije (Pedestrian Subway), tel. 263 5622 From 9 May – 15 October

Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance GUARANTIED DEPARTURES -pick up from hotels CITY TOUR-Daily ,at 10.50,2 Hours with photo stop, OPLENAC-Wed,at 14.00,4 Hours NOVI SAD-Thu, at 14.00,4 hours

www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com glob@metropoliten.com

OLD ZEMUN Duration: 90 minute guided tour Itinerary: Old City Hall, Gospodska Street, Glavna Street, Madlenijanum Theater, Pantelic Foundry, Karamata’s House, Gardos, Sindjeliceva Street, Church of St Nikolai, Zemun Promenade, Old Harbor Master’s Office and Old Custom House Departure point: Zgrada Starog Magistrata (Old City Hall), every Saturday from 06:00 pm to 07:30 pm Bookings: Tourist Information Center Terazije (Pedestrian Subway), tel. 263 5622, Tourist Information Center Zemun, Zmaj Jovina 14, 2192-094 From 9 May – 15 October

OTHER BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING TOURS

Beograd Dositejeva 26 Tel./fax: (381) 11-2181-181 (381) 11-2622-620

- Champagne celebration at the landing point - Diploma awarding with attractive gifts Tickets: Balon servis, Salvadora Aljendea 5/9, tel. 065 / 334 3434 and 062 / 252 067, www.balonservis.co.rs

JEVREMOVAC BOTANIC GARDEN Duration: two hours Departure point: Major gate of the Botanic Garden (Takovska 43), every Saturday, at 12:00 noon Information and bookings on: 324 66 55 Available: May 1 – November 1 On other days the entrance fee is charged

Tour organizers are responsible for departure times and schedules

MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR A minibus passes by the main sights of the city. Duration: two hours Departure point: in front of Balkan Hotel (Prizrenska 2), on weekdays, at 10:50 am Tickets: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Dositejeva 26, tel. 218 1181, www.metropoliten.com

BALLOON RIDE OVER BELGRADE Duration: 60 to 90 minutes Schedule: - Organized transportation to the take off point and back after the flight BelGuest SUMMER 2009

RIVER SIGHTSEEING TOURS Tour organizers are responsible for departure times and schedules

CRUISE ON SIRONA BOAT Schedules: - Belgrade from the rivers – every Saturday and Sunday, 10:00 am – 12:00 noon and 05:00 pm – 07:00 pm - Danube Lunch Cruise – every Saturday and Sunday, 01:00 pm – 04:00 pm - Belgrade at night (with dinner) – every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 08:30 pm to 11:00 pm (Wednesdays available only from May 20 to September 16) - Midnight cruise – every Friday and Saturday, 11:30 pm - 01:30 am (available only from May 22 to September 11) - Regular sightseeing tours – from April 24 to mid October Contact: Sava Passenger Dock (Savsko pristanište), Karađorđeva, tel. 303 9090, mob. 063 / 287 868, www.sirona-cruises.com

KEJ YACHT CLUB Duration: two hours Departure point: Kej Yacht Club, daily at 06:00 pm (15 people or more), at 08:00 pm and at 10:00 pm (15 people or more) Contact: Novi Beograd (New Belgrade), Dunavski kej (Danube promenade), Ušće (the Confluence), tel. 316 5432, mob. 064 825 1116, www.klubkej.com

EURO METRO ON THE WATER "RAKIA” TOUR OF BELGRADE Schedule: - Tasting of six different kinds of rakia, served with appropriate snacks, in three different places in Belgrade - Services of a professional guide in Serbian or English - Presentations, lectures and expert commentary at Rakia Bars Departure point: Rakia bar III (Strahinjića Bana 21), every Saturday, at 05:00 pm Contact: Magelan Tourist Agency and Rakia Bars On weekdays: (021) 472 4088 On weekends: 065 / 624 3526 www.visitserbia.org, www.rakiabar.com Bookings: Reservations are required 24 hours in advance (by 5:00 pm on Friday). Minimum six persons, maximum 20 persons.

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

Schedules: - Regular cruises – daily, at 07:00 pm, from Zemun to Branko’s Bridge and back - Dinner cruises – every Friday and Saturday, at 08:30 pm, from Zemun to Ada Medjica and back Departure point: Kej oslobođenja 11a Contact: Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 11a, mob. 062 212 112 and 064 823 4531, www.metronavodi.com

DANUVIJE TOURIST BOAT Schedules: - Panoramic sightseeing of Belgrade from the rivers (for groups of 8 or more) - River cruise of Belgrade and lunch in a fish restaurant (for groups of 12 or more) - Night river cruise of Belgrade and dinner in a fish restaurant (for groups of 12 or more) - Cruises to Beska Village and Sremski Karlovci, Smederevo, Titel, Vinca as well as to Djerdap Gorge, Viminacium and Novi Sad (for groups of 30 or more) - Private parties and celebrations

Departure point: Sava passenger deck (Savsko pristanište), near Bella Vista Restaurant Contact: mob. 064 355 8844, 064 234 3100, www.danuvije.com

HYDRO SPEEDBOAT “MASLACAK” by “Danube Transport & Logistics” Programs: Sailing at Danube, Sava and Tisa, to the destination according your wishes! Rent a boat / charter / for the organized trips: Novi Sad - 1.15 hours, Viminacium – 1 hour, Srebrno jezero - 1.20 hours, Djerdap - 3 hours Coming soon: Regular excursions! Boarding: Sava Passenger Dock Contact: Belgrade, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 10a, YUBC, 011/311-92-41, 31196-53 dandeltd@eunet.rs “BEOGRAD 25” BOAT Every day at 6.30pm and 8.15 pm from Dorcol to Ada Medjica and back Departure point: Sport Center “Milan Gale Muškatirović”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63 More info: 063/347-832 BELGRADE BOATS Panoramic sightseeing of Belgrade - every day from 5 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. Dinner cruise - every day from 8.30 p.m. to 11.30 p.m. Ship excursions to Vinca, an archeological site - Sundays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Minimum number of passengers: 50 Departure: Zemun, Kej Oslobodjenja 29, tel: 064/823-4567; 064/823-4500 and make a reservation

OPEN BUS SIGHTSEEING Duration: 50 - 70 minute guided tour Itinerary: Belgrade City Assembly , National Parliament, Kneza Miloša st., Bul. Mira, Josip Broz Tito Memorial Center, St. Sava Temple, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Square, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade Departure point: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Saturday at 11 am in serbian and english Reservation and information: BS TOURS - Savski trg 1a; tel. 761 46 93; 668 84 48; www.bstours.co.rs Information: Tourist information Center, Terazije (Pedestrian Subway), tel. 263 5622 and Tourist Information Center, Makedonska 5, tel. 334 3460

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

BELGRADE ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN THE GARDEN OF GOOD HOPE The Zoological Garden is located in Kalemegdan, a part of the Belgrade Fortress, Belgrade's most important cultural and historic monument. It was founded in 1936. Along with the great variety of attractive animal residents such as the white lions, giraffes, monkeys, and the cheetah, at the Garden you'll also see many sculptures, and three of these sculptures are specifically dedicated to the authentic heroes from the animal world. For the summer season, the box office is open from 8am to 8pm. Belgrade Zoological Garden is open all year round. Info: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org Tel.: 011-26-245-26.

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

REDOVNI PROGRAMI RAZGLEDANJA BEOGRADA U ORGANIZACIJI TOB

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA AUTOBUSOM Upoznajte Beograd krstareći njegovim gradskim ulicama i uživajte u interesantoj priči vodiča o istoriji grada, arhitekturi i životu Beograđana. Kroz ovu turu upoznaćete uže jezgro grada i deo Novog Beograda. Trajanje: 90 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Maršruta: Skupština grada Beograda, Dom Narodne skupštine, Terazije, Trg Republike, Studentski trg, Beogradska tvrđava, Varoš kapija, Novi Beograd, Topčidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Trg Slavija, Trg Nikole Pašića Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, nedeljom u 10.00 (engleski) i 12.00 (srpski)

RAZGLEDANJE KRALJEVSKIH DVOROVA Dvorski kompleks dinastije Karađorđević na Dedinju sastoji se od Kraljevskog i Belog dvora. Pored dva velelepna dvorska zdanja i parka, posetioci uz pratnju

profesionalnih turističkih vodiča obilaze i dvorsku kapelu posvećenu Sv. Andreju Prvozvanom, zaštitniku kraljevske porodice. Trajanje:120 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Maršruta: autobusom do Dedinja, potom pešice obilazak dvorskog parka, Kraljevskog dvora i Belog dvora Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, subotom i nedeljom u 10.30 (srpski) i 13.30 (srpski i engleski) Period: od 1. aprila do 30. novembra Prijave: Turistički informativni centar, Makedonska 5, tel. 3343-460

ŠETNJA KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU Trajanje: 120 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Maršruta: Palata "Albanija", Trg Republike, Knez Mihailova, Kralja Petra, Kneza Sime Markovića, Kalemegdanski park, Beogradska tvrđava (Spomenik zahvalnosti Francuskoj, Vojni muzej, Pobednik, Opservatorijum "Ruđer Bošković", crkva Ružica, kapela Svete Petke, Kula Nebojša, Karlova kapija) Polazak: ispred Palate "Albanija" (na ulazu u podzemni prolaz), subotom u 11.00 (srpski) i 13.00 (engleski) Period: od 9. maja do 15. oktobra Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Terazije (u podzemnom prolazu), tel. 2635-622

STARI ZEMUN Trajanje: 90 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Maršruta: Zgrada Starog Magistrata, Gospodska ulica, Glavna, Madlenijanum, Livnica Pantelić, Karamatina kuća, Gardoš, Sinđelićeva, Nikolajevska crkva, Zemunski kej, Stara Kapetanija i Stara carinarnica Period: od 9. maja do 15. oktobra Polazak: : Zgrada Starog Magistrata, subotom od 18.00 do 19.30

VANREDNI PROGRAMI U ORGANIZACIJI TOB

POSETA ARHEOLOŠKOM NALAZIŠTU VINČA (autobusom) Samo za organizovane grupe, minimum 30 osoba Naselje Vinča nalazi se na 14 km od Beograda, pored puta Beograd-Smederevo i nadaleko je poznato po nalazima izuzetne arheološke vrednosti. Praistorijski lokalitet Belo brdo je na samoj obali Dunava i predstavlja svetski poznato arheološko nalazište sa ostacima velikog neolitskog naselja, u kulturnom sloju debljine 10,5 m i na površini od 10 hektara. U toku iskopavanja, koje je 1908. započeo profesor Beogradskog univerziteta dr Miloje Vasić, otkrivene su brojne kuće, zemunice sa ostacima materijalne kulture praistorijskog čoveka.

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

Trajanje: 240 min, uz pratn ju turističkog vodiča Maršruta: Bul. kralja Aleksandra, Smederevski put, selo Vinča, Arheološko nalazište Vinča Program: obilazak lokaliteta uz komentar vodiča i kustosa Muzeja grada Beograda

IZLETI VAN BEOGRADA U ORGANIZACIJI TOB Samo za organizovane grupe, minimum 30 osoba.

VINSKA TURA Jednodnevni ekskluzivni izlet autobusom, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Trajanje: 9.00-20.30 Program:-ManastirGrgeteg- Sremski Karlovci - poseta "Vinskom podrumu" (degustacija vina), obilazak grada (Patrijaršija, Kapela mira, Karlovačka gimnazija, Saborna crkva)- Čenej - obilazak Salaša "137" i ergele (vojvođanski ručak uz degustaciju vina)

ETNO-EKO IZLET Jednodnevni ekskluzivni izlet autobusom, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Trajanje: 9.30-19.00 Program:- Pećinci - poseta Muzeju hleba - Prirodni rezervat “Zasavica" - obilazak, vožnja brodom, ručak

VIMINACIUM Trajanje: 10.00-18.00 Program: - Piće dobrodošlice, vožnja rimskim dvokolicama, rimska igra, obilazak tri lokaliteta - Rimski ručak Informacije i rezervacije: 3061-317

OSTALI PROGRAMI TURISTIČKIH RAZGLEDANJA BEOGRADA Za polaske i programe razgledanja odgovorni su organizatori.

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA MINIBUSOM Minibus obilazi atraktivne turističke ambijentalne celine grada. Trajanje: 120 min Polazak: ispred Hotela "Balkan" (Prizrenska 2), radnim danima, 10.50 Prodaja karata: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Dositejeva 26, tel. 2181-181, www. metropoliten.com

LETENJE BALONOM IZNAD BEOGRADA 94

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

Upoznajte Beograd iz drugačije perspektive i uživate u romantičnom pogledu na ušće Save u Dunav. Razgledanje Beograda iz vazduha balonom moguće je svakim danom tokom godine kada nema padavina i kada brzina vetra ne prelazi 5 m/s. Leti se do visine od 1000 m. Trajanje: 60 do 90 min Program: - Organizovan prevoz do mesta poletanja i povratak nakon leta - Proslavu na mestu sletanja uz šampanjac - Diploma i atraktivni pokloni Prodaja karata: Balon servis, Salvadora Aljendea 5/9, tel. 065-334-3434 i 062252-067, www.balonservis.co.rs

RAZGLEDANJE BOTANIČKE BAŠTE "JEVREMOVAC" Botanička bašta se prostire na oko pet hektara i ima više od 250 vrsta stabala i grmlja, domaćeg, evropskog i egzotičnog porekla. Sem otvorenih aleja, Botanička bašta ima i staklenik, a specijalna atrakcija je Japanski vrt. Ako ste ljubitelj prirode i želite da odmorite od šetnje gradskim ulicama i trgovima preporučujemo osveženje u ovoj oazi prirode u samom centru grada. Besplatno, uz pratnju stručnih vodiča. Trajanje: 120 min Polazak: Glavna kapija Botaničke bašte (Takovska 43), subotom, 12.00 Rezervacija za grupne posete: 324-5566 Informacije: 3244 - 847 Informacije i rezervacije: 324 66 55 od 1. maja do 1. novembra Ostalim danima ulaz se naplaćuje

BEOGRADSKA “RAKIJA TURA" Ukoliko želite da osetite autentučni šarm Beograda i boemsku atmosferu uz organizovanu posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju stručnog vodiča možete više da saznate o rakiji i Beogradu i probate 6 različitih rakija na tri razlicite lokacije koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka koji pojačava i uokviruje sam ukus rakije. Program: - Degustacija 6 različitih vrsta rakija uz odgovarajuće mezetluke na tri različite lokacije u Beogradu - Usluge stručnog vodiča prema programu na srpskom ili engleskom jeziku - Prezentacije, predavanja i stručni komentari u Rakia barovima Polazak: Rakia bar III (Strahinjića Bana 21), subotom, 17.00 Kontakt: Turistička agencija "Magelan" i Rakia barovi Radnim danima: (021) 4724-088 Vikendom: 065-6243-526 www.visitserbia.org, www.rakiabar.com Rezervacije: Obavezna rezervacija 24 sata pre polaska (do 17.00 u petak). Minimum 6 osoba, maksimum 20 osoba.

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA SA REKA

20.00 i u 22.00 (minimum 15 osoba) Kontakt: Novi Beograd, Dunavski kej, Ušće, tel. 316-5432, mob. 064-825-1116, www. klubkej.com

Za polaske i programe razgledanja odgovorni su organizatori.

KRSTARENJE BRODOM "SIRONA" Luksuzni rečni brod "Sirona" kapaciteta 120 putnika, sa tri palube i klimatizovanim salon-restoranom i kuhinjom, može se iznajmljivati tokom cele godine. Brod je opremljen najmodernijom tehničkom i navigacionom opremom i idealan je za organizovanje banketa, svečanih i poslovnih ručkova i večera, porodičnih slavlja, koktela, prezentacija... Programi: - Beograd sa reka - subota i nedelja, 10.00-12.00 i 17.00-19.00 - Izlet Dunavom sa ručkom - subota i nedelja, 13.00-16.00 - Beograd noću uz večeru - sreda, petak, subota i nedelja, 20.30-23.00 (sreda samo od 20. maja do 16. septembra) - Ponoćna plovidba - petak i subota, 23.30-01.30 (samo od 22. maja do 11. septembra) - Redovne ture razgledanja - od 24. aprila do polovine oktobra Kontakt: Savsko pristanište, Karađorđeva, tel. 303-9090, mob. 063-287-868, www. sirona-cruises.com

JAHTING KLUB "KEJ" Plovidba tokom cele godine Savom i Dunavom, uz specijalitete vrhunskih majstora kulinarstva i profesionalno ozvučenje (4 x 500 W), na dva broda katamarana, kapaciteta 110 i 70 osoba i brodu "Kej 1". Moguća je i organizacija poslovnih susreta, večera, proslava, godišnjica... Trajanje: 2 sata Polazak: od Jahting kluba "Kej", svakog dana u 18.00 (minimum 15 osoba),

EURO METRO NA VODI Krstarenje Savom i Dunavom brodovima "Danka", "Carpe diem" i "Lido". Pogodni su za dnevna krstarenja, panoramsko razgledanje grada sa reka, ručkove, promocije, koktele, razne proslave i svečanosti. Kapacitet brodova je od 60 do 250 putnika. Programi: - Redovna krstarenja - svakog dana, 19.00, od Zemuna do Brankovog mosta i nazad - Krstarenja uz večeru - petak i subota, 20.30, od Zemuna do Ade Međice i nazad Polazak: Kej oslobođenja 11a Kontakt: Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 11a, mob. 062-212-112 i 064-823-4531, www. metronavodi.com

TURISTIČKI BROD "DANUVIJE" Brod sa velikom pokrivenom palubom, kapaciteta 50 osoba, klimatizovan, salon na dva nivoa, bife, ozvučenje, savremeni navigacioni uređaji (plovidba tokom cele godine), kuhinja i salon sa ležajevima za spavanje, profesionalno i iskusno osoblje. Programi: - Panoramsko razgledanje Beograda sa reka (min 8 putnika) - Beograd sa reka i ručak u ribljem restoranu (min 12 osoba) - Beograd sa reka noću i večera u ribljem restoranu (min 12 osoba) - Krstarenja do Beške, Sremskih Karlovaca, Smedereva, Titela, Vinče, Đerdapske klisure, Viminaciuma i Novog Sada (min 30 putnima) - Privatne proslave i zabave

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

Polazak: Savsko pristanište, pored restorana "Bella Vista" Kontakt: mob. 064-355-8844, 064-2343-100, www.danuvije.com

HIDROGLISER “MASLAČAK” Dunavska Transportna Logistika Programi: Plovidba Dunavom, Savom i Tisom, prema destinacijama po Vasoj zelji! Iznajmljivanje hidroglisera / charter / za sva organizovana putovanja. Novi Sad – 1.15h, Viminacijum - 1.15h, Srebrno jezero – 2.15h, Djerdap – 3h Uskoro – redovni polasci Polazak:Savsko pristaniste Kontakt:Beograd, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 10a, YUBC, 011/311-92-41, 31196-53 dandeltd@eunet.rs

“BEOGRAD 25” -Svakog dana u 18.30 h i 20.15 h Polazak: JP SRCP Sportski centar “Milan Gale Muškatirović”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63 Informacije: 063/347 832

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

BRODOVI BEOGRADA Panoramsko razgledanje Beograda brodom - svakog dana od 17.00 do 18.20 Krstarenje uz večeru - svakog dana od 20.30 do 23.30 Izleti brodom za Vinču - arheološko nalazište - nedelja od 10.00 do 17.00 za ovu turu minimalan broj putnika 50 Polazak: Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 29, tel 011/ 375 24 51, 064/8234567, 064/8234500 www.brodovibeograda.com

IZLETNIČKE TURE Za polaske i programe razgledanja odgovorni su organizatori.

DIVAN JE KIĆENI SREM Jednodnevni izlet brodom i minibusom, sa turističkim vodičem. Minimum je 8 osoba, a u cenu je uključeno sve osim ručka u "Kolebi" i posluženja u Stremenu. Program:

09.00 Polazak brodom sa pristana u Bloku 44, Savsko šetalište. Na brodu piće dobrodošlice. 10.00 Iskrcavanje u pristanu u Jakovu. Konjobus Salaš Stremen (kafa i štrudla), Manastir Fenek Zlatni krst, Boljevci Etno kuća Stajkovih, Nautičko selo i restoran "Biser", Bojčinska šuma i ručak u restoranu "Koleba", letnja pozornica, trim staza, vožnja fijakerom 17.00 Povratak minibusom 18.00 Dolazak na Novi Beograd (Blok 44) Kontakt: JP za turizam "Surčin", Kosovska 2, tel. 069-690-690, www.surcin.net

FRUŠKA GORA I NOVI SAD Jednodnevni izlet autobusom, sa turističkim vodičem. Minimum je 2 osobe. Program: - Poseta manastiru Krušedol (XIV vek) - Obilazak istorijskog gradića Sremski Karlovci uz posetu jednom od vinskih podruma - Obilazak Petrovaradinske tvrđave i Novog Sada Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, subotom, 9.30 Povratak: 20.00 Kontakt: Turistička agencija "Magelan", (021) 4724-088, 065-6243-526, www.visitserbia.org Rezervacije: Obavezna rezervacija najkasnije 18 sati pre polaska (do 17.00 u petak). Specijalan popust od 50% za rezervacije i uplate 7 dana pre polaska.

BEO ZOO VRT VRT DOBRE NADE Zoo vrt se nalazi u delu Beogradske tvrđave, na Kalemegdanu, najznačajnijem kulturno-istorijskom spomeniku Beograda. Osnovan je 1936. godine. Osim velikog broja životinja i atraktivnih stanovnika poput belih lavova, žirafa, majmuna, geparda... u vrtu ćete videti i brojne parkovske skulpture, od kojih su tri posvećene autentičnim herojima iz sveta životinja. U letnjem periodu blagajna radi od 8.00 do 20.00 h. Beo Zoo vrt je otvoren je svih 365 dana u godini. Info: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org. Tel: 011/26-245-26.

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

B E LG R A D E T H E F I R S T I N T H E W O R L D T O G E T A LT E R N AT I V E G U I D E S

UNIQUE “SECOND GLANCE” The seemingly obvious is not always the only image of reality. Perception is an individual category. During the summer, nine alternative guides will use their knowledge and experience to present Kalemegdan Fortress, Ušće (Confluence) Park, Pristanište (The Pier), Staro Sajmište (The Old Fairgrounds), as well as Blocks 45 and 70. 98

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

elgrade will be the first capital city on the planet to have people living with disabilities as tour guides. In an attractive and somewhat unusual way, this summer the nine guides will use their knowledge and experience to reveal Kalemegdan Fortress, Ušće (Confluence) Park, Pristanište (The Pier), Staro Sajmište (The Old Fairgrounds), as well as Blocks 45 and 70. This unique project, called A Second Glance, is being realised through co-operation between the Centre for International Artistic Studies and the Centre for Visual Culture of the Museum of Contemporary Art in Belgrade, while the programme is also partly supported by Swiss culture programme Pro Helvetia. According to those involved, Second Glance will also initiate a public debate on the problem of

marginalisation and disabilities, but also offer a different perception of the city’s cultural potential. - Their methods as guides are certainly something very different from the job of a professional guide. They are actually encouraged more to speak about themselves than to present facts concerning the city’s history; encouraged to talk more about their individual relationships with certain places that we have selected; and they are very much motivated for all that, explains project co-ordinator, Mirjana Vasić. Simultaneously, the aim of the project Belgrade – A Second Glance is to offer a different view of the city. Alternative guides offer a combination of knowledge and personal experience, precisely the experience that concerns them personally, differently developed abilities of observation. A guide born without the power of sight and one who has lost their vision will offer completely different explanations of certain places. Their experience of reality is different, more refined to sounds, smells... A wheelchair bound guide or one with a walking aid or restricted movement will present their own view of a selected area and movement within it. A developmentally disabled person will give their own understanding of a place, perhaps through simplistic observations of the complex reality, or by pointing out the complexities of what appears seemingly obvious. Developing this kind of lecturing about Belgrade required several levels of advanced training and education of the novice guides. The first nine apprentices of the workshop, who worked during the autumn with art historians, architects and artists (Zoran Erić, Irina Subotić, Milan Prodanović, Nikola Šuica, Vladan Jeremić, Dejan Atanacković), as well as with psychologists Svetlana Kijevčanin and Olivera Ivanović, underwent specific two-

month training for the aforementioned locations. The diversity of trainees, from those with Down’s syndrome to university students, demanded differing approaches and yielded differing results, certainly different from the regular training of a tourist guide. - This project unveils new opportunities for persons with disabilities and groups that are often severely marginalised, such as the Roma population. We are offered a chance to present ourselves and show the knowledge, skills and capabilities that we possess, says Uroš Čuburović, an alternative guide who has been blind since birth. - After really high quality training, I believe I will be able to be a very good guide to Kalemegdan. This is a very diverse area with a lot to offer that is naturally connected to the city; by its configuration it is the city’s centre and a meeting place for both tourists and locals. There they exchange love, knowledge and learn history. Alternative guides presents both the selected locations and themselves by interpreting the city and offering the realities that influence, amongst other things, their own social standing, says Uroš. According to him, this is the first such project in the world. It helps to create a positive climate and offer a chance for society to change. Discriminated groups also have a chance to improve their own education, which also helps them improve their chances of finding a job. The project of alternative guides emerged from the idea for persons with disabilities and members of minority groups to udergo training for narrative tourist guidance so that the city could also be seen in a somewhat different light. MILENKO KOVAČEVIĆ

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

B E O G R A D P R V I U S V E T U D O B I J A A LT E R N AT I V N E VO D I Č E

JEDINSTVENI “DRUGI POGLED”

Naizgled očigledno nije uvek i jedina slika stvarnosti. Percepcija je individualna kategorija. Devet alternativnih vodiča će tokom leta svoja znanja i iskustva pokazivati na Kalemegdanu, parku Ušće, Pristaništu, Starom sajmištu i blokovima 45 i 70.

lavni grad Srbije biće prva prestonica na planeti koja će za obilaske svojih znamenitosti kao turističke vodiče imati osobe sa hendikepom. Na atraktivan, a pomalo i neuobičajen način, devet vodiča će tokom leta svoja znanja i iskustva pokazivati na Kalemegdanu, parku Ušće, Pristaništu, Starom sajmištu i blokovima 45 i 70. Taj jedinstveni projekat, nazvan je Drugi pogled, a ostvaruje se saradnjom Centra za međunarodne umetničke studije i Inkluzivnog pokreta, uz podršku Centra za kulturu Stari grad, Turističke organizacije Beograda i Centra za vizuelnu kulturu Muzeja savremene umetnosti u Beogradu. Jednim delom podržava ga Švajcarski program za kulturu (Pro Helvetia). Prema rečima učesnika, Drugim pogledom pokreće se i javna rasprava o problemu marginalizacije i hendikepa, ali i o drugačijoj percepciji kulturnog potencijala grada. – Njihov nastup kao vodiča svakako je nešto mnogo drugačije od posla profesionalnog vodiča. Oni su, zapravo, podstaknuti da više govore o sebi nego o činjenicama koje se tiču istorije grada, podstaknuti su da više govore o onome što predstavlja nekakav odnos njih kao pojedinaca sa nekim mestima koja smo odabrali i oni su veoma motivisani za sve to – objašnjava Mirjana Vasić, koordinator projekta. Istovremeno je cilj projekta Beograd – Drugi

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pogled ponuda drugačijeg pogleda na grad. Alternativni vodiči nude kombinaciju znanja i ličnog iskustva, upravo onog iskustva koje se tiče sopstvenih, drugačije razvijenih sposobnosti zapažanja. Vodič koji je rođen bez sposobnosti vida, ili je izgubio tu sposobnost, sasvim će drugačije objasniti određena mesta. Njegov doživljaj stvarnosti izoštreniji je za zvukove, mirise… Onaj ko je vezan za kolica i druga pomagala, osoba otežanog kretanja, videće na svoj način odabrani prostor i kretanje u njemu. Mentalno hendikepirani izraziće svoje razumevanje mesta, možda kroz jednostavnost zapažanja složene realnosti ili kroz ukazivanje na kompleksnost naizgled očiglednog. Za ovakav vid predavanja o Beogradu, bilo je potrebno da se prođe više nivoa usavršavanja i obrazovanja polaznika. Prvih devet polaznika radionice koji su tokom proleća radili sa istoričarima umetnosti, arhitektama i umetnicima (Zoran Erić, Irina Subotić, Milan Prodanović, Nikola Šuica, Vladan Jeremić, Dejan Atanacković), te sa psiholozima Svetlanom Kijevčanin i Oliverom Ivanović, prošli su specifičnu dvomesečnu obuku za pomenute lokacije. Raznovrsnost polaznika, od osoba sa Daunovim sindromom do studenata univerziteta, zahtevala je različite pristupe i dala različite rezultate, svakako drugačije od uobičajene pripreme za turističkog vodiča. – Ovim projektom otvara se novi prostor oso-

bama sa hendikepom i često marginalizovanim grupama, poput Roma. Pružena nam je prilika da predstavimo sebe i pokažemo znanje, veštinu i sposobnosti koje posedujemo – kaže Uroš Čuburović, alternativni vodič, koji je od rođenja slep. – Nakon izuzetno kvalitetne obuke, verujem da ću moći da budem dobar vodič na Kalemegdanu. Reč je o raznolikom prostoru, sa mnogo sadržaja, a koji je po svojoj prirodi vezan za grad, po konfiguraciji predstavlja centar prestonice, a središte je okupljanja kako turista tako i sugrađana. Oni tamo razmenjuju ljubav, znanje i uče istoriju. Alternativni vodič istovremeno predstavlja odabranu lokaciju i sebe kao tumača grada i datih realnosti koje se tiču, između ostalog, sopstvenog društvenog položaja. Prema Uroševim rečima, ovo je prvi takav projekat u svetu. S njim se stvara pozitivna klima i daje šansa za promene u društvu. Diskriminisane grupe imaju priliku da usavršavaju svoje obrazovanje, a samim tim im se povećava šansa da pronađu posao. Projekat o alternativnim vodičima nastao je iz ideje da se osobe sa hendikepom i pripadnici manjinskih grupa obuče za narativno turističko vođenje kako bi se grad prikazao i u nešto drugačijem svetlu. MILENKO KOVAČEVIĆ

RAKIA BAR

URBAN HEDONISM A long term ‘must-see’ on the tourism and catering map of Belgrade, Rakia Bar is a creative workshop that preserves the tradition of producing domestic brandy and drinking fiery water in good company, with a customary chat and snack. This unique concept, whereby the finest fruit distillate is to be savoured in a fashionably designed space, represents a kind of urban hedonism, whilst confirming the Serbian capital’s (and its brandy’s) definitive step forward onto the world stage of spirits.

alues from the past, writes psychoanalyst Dušan Kosović, which no longer exist in the present, represent nothing more than a burden and traditionalism. Only a noteworthy tradition, like a great river, flows through the present and reaches the future. The one who is ready to renounce the values held in their own tradition is not far removed from the barbarian vision of reality. Such civilisations are like a house without foundations, a balloon irresistibly roaming on the firmament. Preserving tradition, the creative workshop Rakia Bar has woven its narrative on brandy into the fabric of the Serbian capital. Along with its two bars - where the best domestic brandies are already available for tasting - its moonlight snacks in Vračar, as well as its chocolate-filled pralines offered at its gift shop on Terazije, Rakia Bar also recently opened its first franchise on Strahinjića Bana Street. Based on a tried and tested homemade recipe, Rakia Bar has prepared an extravagant feminine and mystical drink with a full and sophisticated taste: the liquor MaLena, which sees the exclusive plum brandy Excellentia spiced up with cherry and honey. It is packaged in luxurious bottles or sold as brandy in a tube. Made with only 25% alcohol and a light vanilla flavour, it won’t sweep you off your feet, but is sure to lift your spirits. It is a special treat for the ladies on their Saturday afternoon stroll around the city and the bars that participate in the Belgrade Rakia Tour. To kick-off the tour, the Rakia Bar on Strahinjića Bana Street offers the story of the origins of brandy in Serbia. Here you can also sample grape brandy,

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for example. While strolling the streets of Dorćol accompanied by a professional guide, you will hear stories of the old taverns and Bohemians who knocked back glass after glass of fiery water while having a mere grape for a snack at various Belgrade landmarks. Near the National Theatre, in Rakia Bar I on Dobračina Street, be sure to taste the quince or apricot brandy. You will also become privy to the secret of brandy making and learn how to tell their aromas apart. After all the hustle and bustle of Republic Square and your visit to the gift shop on Terazije, Rakia Bar II awaits on Kralja Milutina Street. Located in a tranquil neighbourhood of central Belgrade, Rakia Bar II will offer you a place to relax in the shade of linden trees. It is there that His Majesty the Plum Brandy awaits you. While you’re taking pleasure in this profusion of tastes, aromas and colours, and summing up impressions of the day well spent in savouring Serbian brandy, you’ll realise that it all exists only to better preserve and continue yet another old tradition… VLADIMIR POČUČ PHOTOGRAPHS: LENA NEŠIĆ

URBANI HEDONIZAM Nezaobilazno mesto na ugostiteljskoj i turističkoj mapi Beograda već godinama jeste Rakia Bar – kreativna radionica koja neguje tradiciju proizvodnje domaće rakije i ispijanja vatrenih voda u dobrom društvu, uz priču i nezaobilazno meze. Jedinstven koncept, po kome se destilat najfinijeg voća toči u moderno osmišljenom prostoru, na savremen način, svojevrstan je urbani hedonizam, potvrđen iskorak i srpske prestonice i rakije na svetsku scenu žestokih pića.

rednosti iz prošlosti, piše psihoanalitičar Dušan Kosović, koje ne postoje u sadašnjosti nisu ništa drugo do teret i tradicionalizam. Samo vredna tradicija, poput velike reke, teče kroz sadašnjost i stiže do budućnosti. Onaj ko je spreman da se odrekne vrednosti u svojoj tradiciji, nije daleko od varvarske vizije stvarnosti. Takve civilizacije liče na kuću bez temelja, balon koji nezadrživo luta nebeskim plavetnilom. Čuvajući tradiciju, kreativna radionica Rakia Bar zaokružila je priču o rakijama u srpskoj prestonici. Uz dva bara, u kojima se već degustiraju najbolje domaće rakije, mezi na mesečini Vračara, ali i daruje čokolada punjena rakijom iz prodavnice poklona na Terazijama, otvorila je i prvi franšizni Rakia Bar u ulici Strahinjića Bana. Po proverenoj, maminoj recepturi Rakia Bar pripremio je neobično žensko i mistično piće, punog i sofisticiranog ukusa – liker MaLena – ekskluzivnu šljivovicu Excellentia začinio je malinom i medom. Upakovana je u luksuzne boce ili se prodaje kao rakija u tubi. Sa svega 25 odsto alkohola u sebi i nežnom aromom vanile ne obara s nogu, ali pouzdano popravlja raspoloženje. Tek da se ne zapostave dame dok subotom popodne obilaze grad i barove u okviru Beogradske rakija ture... INFO Priča o poreklu rakije, najpre, na Rakia Bar repertoaru je u Rakia Baru u ulici Beograd Strahinjića Bana. Tu možete probati, na www.rakiabar.com primer, i lozovaču. O starim kafanama, rakiabar@gmail.com o boemima koji su ispijajući vatrene Mob.064-265-77-37 vode satima mezetili samo uz jedno *Rakia Bar 1, Dobračina 5, zrno grožđa, o poznatim beogradskim zdanjima, slušajte dok šetate ulicama 011-3286-119 Dorćola. Nadomak Narodnog pozorišta, *Rakia Bar 2, Kralja Milutina 4, u prvom Rakia Baru, u Dobračinoj ulici, 011-3692-805 *Rakia Bar 3, Strahinjića Bana 21, obavezno degustirajte dunjevaču ili rakiju od kajsije. Otkrićete i tajnu kako 011-2910-070 *Rakia Bar – Gift shop, Terazije 42, se rakije spravljaju ili razlikuju njihove arome. 011-2643-158

Posle vreve na Trgu republike i obilaska Gift shopa na Terazijama, u Rakia Baru u ulici Kralja Milutina, pod hladom lipa, odmorite se u mirnom kraju prestonice. Čeka vas njeno veličanstvo – šljivovica. Uživajući u tom carstvu ukusa, mirisa i boja, sumirajući utiske o danu koji ste posvetili srpskoj rakiji, shvatićete da sve to zajedno postoji kako bi se održala i nastavila još jedna tradicija... VLADIMIR POČUČ

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MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM Kalemegdan Fortress, the Victor Monument and Nebojša’s Tower silently emerge from the water, creating an unforgettable image. The view extends to the other side, over Great and Small War Islands, dancing along with the waves that crash against their banks. The sky above Belgrade remains captured for a moment within the wooden square of the Stara Koliba Restaurant, like a fleeting dream of a midsummer’s night.

he confluence of the River Sava and the tables and even the round kitchen, which is covered Danube, below Belgrade’s Kalemegdan with reed in the centre of Stara Koliba Restaurant Fortress on a summer’s night… From and is where excellent chefs prepare culinary spethe crowded restaurants on the water along the cialities under the gaze of curious guests. The lights Danube bank one can hear voices and distant in the baskets of weaved switches produce discrete sounds of music. Only the sensitive ear can recog- lighting. The walls, also covered in multi-coloured nise the song of the old city and the echoes of the reed, are decorated with paintings of fishermen, tamburitza strings: While the Danube flows silently, boats and a Belgrade of bygone times. I wish she would have come… Rope buoys and an old contrabass hang among It is difficult at dusk to distinguish the unusual the beams that support the dome of the restauyurt-like dwelling on the water, covered with its rant. The scents of wild flowers presented in clay distinctive thatched reed roof. The jugs and fish specialities satisfy the winding wooden walkway over story of Belgrade and its rivers, as the water leading to its entrance INFO well as the unavoidable return of is hidden from the sight of pass- Restaurant Stara koliba its residents to nature. ersby by the weeping willows Ušče bb, Belgrade With the wordless song of the towering over the water. To get Phone: 011-311-7-444 tamburica accompanying guests, to the Stara Koliba Restaurant you Working hours: daily from along with homemade quince have to descend steep stairs. 12pm to 2am brandy from shot glasses or sips Each piece of furniture in the All credit cards accepted of excellent wine, dinner at Stara restaurant is made of polished, www.starakoliba.com Koliba can commence. On the menu untreated wood: the bar, chairs, there are river and sea fish, as well

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as shell food. Perch in sour cream, brada (a sea fish) in sauce or grilled octopus can be served only after a serving of our famous fish soup. Then, according to good old custom, the meal is followed by pancakes with apples, tufahije (apples filled with nuts) or walnut cakes. As time beyond the tranquillity of Stara Koliba inevitably passes, so a new day greets the confluence of the rivers of Belgrade. That is why the tamburica band will play the old bohemian and café song for goodbye – at dawn at the beginning of a new day, I am going home all tipsy… As such, if you really want to get to know Belgrade and its residents just the way they are (friendly, charming and spontaneous), look for the old cafes and restaurants or simply go down to the rivers of Belgrade. Listen to the stories of the Sava and the Danube, while they are waving to rafts and fishermen’s boats. Goodbye for now, until a new meeting… VLADIMIR POČUČ

SAN LETNJE NOĆI Kalemegdanska tvrđava, Pobednik i Kula Nebojša nečujno izranjaju iz vode i uobličuju se u nezaboravnu sliku. Pogled, na drugoj strani, luta Velikim i Malim ratnim ostrvom, netremice prateći talase koji se odbijaju od njihovih obala. Nebo nad Beogradom, samo za čas, ostaće zarobljeno u drvenom kvadratu restorana Stara Koliba, poput kratkog sna jedne letnje noći...

eogradsko ušće... Sa načičkanih splavova duž dunavske obale dopire žamor glasova i još nejasni zvuci muzike. Samo osetljivo uvo prepoznaje pesmu i odjek tamburaških žica: Dunav, Dunav tiho teče, vratiti se ona neće... osta samo želja pusta... Teško se u polumraku odmah razaznaje neobična sojenica na vodi, prekrivena trskom. Krivudavi drveni mostić, koji vodi do njenog ulaza, zaklanjaju vrbe od pogleda slučajnih prolaznika. Do čarde Stara koliba mora se strmim stepenicama. Svaki komad nameštaja u restoranu je od neobrađenog ali lakiranog drveta – šank, stolice, stolovi, čak i trskom prekrivena okrugla kuhinja u središtu Stare kolibe, u kojoj vrsni majstori, uz radoznale poglede gostiju, pripremaju kulinarske čarolije. Diskretno osvetljenje pružaju svetiljke

zaodenute u korpe od pletenog pruća. Zidove, takođe obučene u raznobojnu trsku, ukrašavaju slike alasa, čamaca i nekog davnog Beograda. Sa greda, na koje se oslanja kupola restorana, vise bove od kanapa i stari kontrabas. Mirisi poljskog cveća iz glinenih ćupova i domaćih ribljih specijaliteta zaokružuju priču o Beogradu i njegovim rekama, ali i o neizbežnom povratku njegovih žitelja prirodi. Samo uz tamburašku pesmu na uvce, koju odreda nastavljaju gosti, domaću rakiju dunju iz čokanja ili gutljaje proverenih vina, večera u Staroj kolibi može da počne. Na meniju su rečna ili morska riba, plodovi mora... Smuđ u mileramu ili brada u čarda sosu, možda hobotnica na žaru, svakako na red dolaze tek posle poznate riblje čorbe. Potom, po dobrom običaju, slede palačinke s jabukama, tufahije ili

orasnice. Kako nepripitomljeni delovi vremena izvan Stare kolibe neumitno odbrojavaju trenutke, beogradskom Ušću dobro jutro poželeće je još jedan novi dan. Zato veseloj tamburaškoj bandi, dok goste prati sve do izlaza iz restorana, neće promaći ona stara, boemska i kafanska pesma, za rastanak: U ranu zoru, zoru, zoru, kada svane dan, ja idem kući sav nakresan.... Zato, ako zaista poželite da upoznate Beograd i njegove stanovnike, baš takve kakvi jesu – pitomi, šarmantni i spontani – potražite stare kafane i restorane ili, jednostavno, siđite do reka. Poslušajte priče Save i Dunava dok talasaju splavove i čamce alasa... Do nekog novog susreta sa vama... VLADIMIR POČUČ

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KEMPINSKI

KEMPINSKI HOTELS IN BELGRADE

he oldest hotel group in Europe – Kempinski Hotels, founded in 1897, has been in Belgrade to present its two new hotels in Slovenia and Croatia and simultaneously announce its plans to take over the Hotel Yugoslavia Project. The Project, under the working title Kempinski Hotel Belgrade, is currently awaiting approval by the Belgrade Municipal Authorities, which is believed to be imminent, declared Marcos J Torres Mueller, Sales and Marketing Director of Kempinski Palace Portorož, at a press conference. Mr Mueller added that Kempinski Hotels are hoping that the complete renovation of the Hotel Yugoslavia’s existing building will be carried out during 2010, so that the hotel will be ready to receive its first guests in early 2011. The press conference saw Mr Mueller present Kempinski Palace Portorož. This extensive project is an answer to the prayers of those who wished for the renovation of one of the most beautiful examples of Venetian architectural style. At the beginning of the 20th century, the old Hotel Palace was a crown jewel among the high-end resorts of the Adriatic coast, reserved for the elite. The new hotel, which opened its doors in early 2007, is specific for its subtle harmony - with the renovated old palace embedded within the new modern building combining to make up a sophisticated complex. Kempinski Palace Portorož is a five-Star (Superior Class) Hotel, thus becoming not only the first luxury hotel in Slovenia, but in the entire region as well. Kempinski Hotel Adriatic stretches across the other side of the bay, in Savudria, and is a symbol of modernity and high technology. Its luxurious rooms and apartments, 3000 square-metre Kempinski SPA, three swimming pools and its own Golf Course guarantee an unforgettable holiday. This latest member of the Kempinski Hotels family is scheduled to open in early August 2009, according to Sales Manager, Ms Fiorela Morožin. Before long, the Kempinski Group will have 114 hotels of the highest category in its chain, making it one of the most important hotel groups in the world. Kempinski Hotel Belgrade, with its unique view of the Danube, is soon to be added to this number. For more information, visit: Kempinski Hotels, Home Page www.kempinski.com/en/index.htm

KEMPINSKI

HOTELI KEMPINSKI U BEOGRADU

ajstarija hotelska grupacija u Evropi – Kempinski, ustanovljena još 1897. godine, u Beogradu je predstavila svoja dva nova hotela u Sloveniji i Hrvatskoj, te ujedno najavila preuzimanje projekta – Hotel Jugoslavija. Kempinski hotel Beograd, kako glasi radni naziv projekta, trenutno je u rukama beogradskih gradskih vlasti neposredno pred odobrenjem, izjavio je na konferenciji za novinare Markos J. Tores Miler, direktor prodaje i marketinga hotela Kempinski Palace Portorož. On je dodao da se Kempinski nada kako će Hotel Jugoslavija biti renoviran tokom 2010. godine, te da će početkom 2011. u njemu već boraviti prvi gosti. Gospodin Miler je na konferenciji predstavio Kempinski Palace Portorož. Taj opsežni projekat predstavlja uslišenje molbi za obnovu jedne od najlepših zgrada venecijanskog arhitektonskog stila. Stari Hotel Palace je početkom 20. veka bio krunski dragulj među elitnim odmaralištima na Jadranu, namenjen najvišoj klasi. Novom hotelu, koji je otvorio svoja vrata krajem 2007. godine, pečat daje rafinirani spoj obnovljene stare palate, ukomponovane s novim modernim zdanjem, što zajedno čini sofisticiranu celinu. Kempinski Palace Portorož nosi pet zvezdica superior klase, čime je postao ne samo prvi luksuzni hotel u Sloveniji već u celoj regiji. Kempinski Hotel Adriatic, koji se nalazi sa druge strane zaliva, u Savudriji, simbol je moderne i visoke tehnologije. Njegove luksuzne sobe i apartmani, 3000 kvadratnih metara SPA površine, tri bazena i vlastito igralište za golf garantuju nezaboravan odmor. Otvaranje hotela je najavljeno za početak avgusta 2009. godine, rekla je na konferenciji za novinare direktorka prodaje Fiorela Morožin. Grupacija Kempinski će uskoro u svom lancu imati 114 hotela najviše kategorije, što ih čini jednom od najznačajnijih hotelskih grupacija na svetu. Ovom broju će se uskoro pridružiti i beogradski hotel sa jedinstvenim pogledom na Dunav. BELGUEST

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LISCA

SEDUCTIVE ON THE BEACH

ow do you choose proper swimwear? Whatever you choose, it has to make you look your best, so when choosing swimwear you have to think of your body – above all, your attributes. Within Lisca’s wide range of swimwear, every woman will find a suitable model for her, together with accessories like blouses, bags or gaiters. For the most daring girls, and those who want to look trendy and glamorous, the Selection swimwear line represents their right choice. The extravagant models of daring lines seductively emphasise the contours of the body, while the sophisticated modern materials of summer 2009 are in blue, white and royal blue. Besides swimwear, there are also evening dresses for evening strolls or dances. For those who prefer exotic, ethno patterns and flirtation with flora and fauna, there are models connecting the play of lines, flowers and waves with the magic spells of India. The fashion hit this summer is the bando bra, while for walking over beaches and through seaside towns the right choice is the light caftan, instead of the usual dress. However, if you prefer classic elegance and want to hide your attributes, Lisca’s collection offers models that can correct your body line visually. The youthful, multi-coloured and liveliest of Lisca’s swimwear line is inspired with dynamic graphic and flower patterns on a fresh colour base. The most tanned bodies will be uncovered by bikini panties with ribbons and comfortable skirts and T-shirts instead of bras, proving that tankini is still in. Products of the Active swimwear line are made of special materials with UV protection, which Lisca has prepared for sporty women. The latest collection of Lisca’s swimwear is available at www.lisca.com.

LISCA

ZAVODLJIVE I NA PLAŽI

ako izabrati pravi kupaći kostim? Kako god bilo, morate izabrati tako da izgledate – najbolje. Zato kada birate kupaći kostim treba misliti i na svoju liniju – prvenstveno na atribute. U Liscinoj širokoj ponudi svaka će žena pronaći pravi model, uz dopune kao što su parea, suknjice, torbe ili natikače. Za najsmelije i one koje žele da izgledaju prestižno i glamurozno, pravi će izbor biti kupaći kostimi iz linije „Selection.” Ekstravagantni smeli modeli zavodljivo naglašavaju liniju tela, dok će profinjeni moderni materijali u leto 2009. bleštati u crnoj, beloj i kraljevski plavoj boji. A za večernje šetnje ili ples, pored kupaćih kostima, naći će se i svečane haljine. Onima koje više vole egzotiku, etno uzorke i koketiranje s florom i faunom biće zanimljivi modeli koji povezuju igru pruga, cveća i talasa sa mistikom Indije. Modni hit leta je bando grudnjak, a za šetnju plažom i morskim gradićima pravi izbor je i lagani kaftan umesto uobičajene letnje haljinice. Ako ste, pak, pobornica klasične elegancije i želite malo prikriti raskoš svojih oblina, u Liscinoj ćete kolekciji naći modele koji liniju optički koriguju. Mladalačka, najobojenija i najrazigranija linija Liscinih kupaćih kostima inspirisana je dinamičnim grafičkim i cvetnim uzorcima na svežoj kolorističnoj osnovi. Najviše potamnele puti razotkriće bikini gaćice s vrpcama, a preplanulosti će savršeno pristajati i ugodne suknjice i majičice umesto grudnjaka – da, tankini je i dalje in. Za žene sportskih afiniteta u Lisci su pripremili liniju kupaćih kostima „Active”, izrađenih od specijalnih materijala sa UV zaštitom. Najnoviju kolekciju kupaćih kostima Lisca možete pogledati na www.lisca.com BELGUEST

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NEW CO-BRAND DINERS CLUB & COMTRADE SHOP CARD

NOVA KOBREND KARTICA DINERS CLUB & COMTRADE SHOP

NEW CARD TO IT EQUIPMENT

NOVOM KARTICOM DO IT OPREME

iners Club International Belgrade and ComTrade Group have marked a eceniju uspešne saradnje između Diners Cluba i ComTrade Group, koja decade of successful co-operation by introducing a joint product, the se navršava ove godine, dve kompanije obeležile su na najlepši mogući Diners Club & ComTrade Shop co-brand card. način, uvođenjem zajedničkog proizvoda, kobrend kartice Diners Club & In addition to all the benefits of a standard Diners Club card, the new card ComTrade Shop. enables privileged shopping in every ComTrade Shop. This is the only card that Pored toga što pruža sve pogodnosti kao i standardna Diners Club kartica, nova offers buyers the opportunity to pay for all products purchased at any ComTrade kartica obezbeđuje privilegovanu kupovinu u svakom ComTrade Shopu. Samo sa Shop in up to 12 monthly installments! ovom karticom u svakom ComTrade Shopu kupac proizvode može da plati do 12 All those who are not members of Diners Club but want to enjoy the unique mesečnih rata! benefits of the Diners Club & ComTrade Shop Card, can apply for a card at any Svi oni koji žele da uživaju u jedinstvenim pogodnostima koje pruža Diners Club ComTrade Shop. With the assistance of shop staff, the buyer can fill in the Diners & ComTrade Shop kartica a nisu članovi Diners Cluba, mogu da apliciraju za ovu Club & ComTrade Shop Card application form at the shop and pay with the new karticu prilikom kupovine u bilo kom ComTrade Shopu. Zahtev za Diners Club & ComTrade Shop karticu, uz asistenciju prodavca, kupac može da popuni direktno card right away. na mestu kupovine i odmah obavi kupovinu novom karticom. This card is available in both individual and corporate versions. Ovu karticu mogu da dobiju kako fizička, tako i pravna lica. Osim kreditne Apart from the credit card, the offer includes a unique card created for anyone kartice, u ponudi je i jedinstvena kartica namewho wants to participate in the rewards programmes njena svim licima koja ne ispunjavaju uslove za of Diners Club and ComTrade Shop, but does not meet DINERS CLUB INTERNATIONAL LTD. BELGRADE kreditnu karticu (maloletnim licima ili licima the requirements for a credit card (minor or unemNjegoševa 72, 11000 Beograd bez stalnog zaposlenja), a žele da učestvuju u ployed person). tel. + 381 11 308 16 26 fax. +381 11 344 18 65 nagradnim programima Diners Cluba i ComTrade This card limits the expenses to the amount previclanstvo @diners.rs, www.diners.rs Shopa. Ovu karticu kupac može da koristi do ously deposited onto the account, which makes it an excellent means of controlled spending! raspoloživih sredstava, tako da je odlična za kontrolisanu potrošnju! Pored Besides providing unique benefits, the co-brand card is also a loyalty card that specijalnih pogodnosti koje nudi, kobrend kartica je i lojalti kartica kojom se rewards buyers for every hundred dinars spent in ComTrade Shops with a reward na svakih potrošenih sto dinara u ComTrade Shopu dobija nagradni bod u vredpoint worth one dinar. Reward points can be used for purchasing any product or nosti od jednog dinara. Nagradni bodovi mogu da se iskoriste za kupovinu bilo partially covering the payment for any available product in all ComTrade Shops. kog proizvoda ili za doplatu bilo koje robe u tim prodavnicama. Informacije o For further information visit detaljima za dobijanje kartice možete dobiti na www.diners.rs/cobrand.htm www.diners.rs/cobrand.htm

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KULTURA CULTURE POZORIŠTA – THEATERS www.geocities.com/bgpozorista ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342/www.atelje212.co.yu ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel.2619-705 www.rex.b92.net/ister JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.rs

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SCENA RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323-8817 SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447 TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdarateatar.rs

DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf

BRITANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ BRITISH CULTURAL CENTER, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800 www.britishcouncil.org/serbia

CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270 www.czkd.rs DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442/ www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 323-99-71 FRANCUSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/FRENCH CULTURAL CENTER, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-600 www.ccf.rs

GOETHE INSTITUT-NEMAČKI KULTURNI CENTAR/GERMAN CULTURAL CENTER, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 2622-823/ www.goethe.de/belgrad

GRAD - Evropski centar za kulturu i debatu, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 571 www. gradbeograd.eu

GUARNERIUS – centar lepih umetnosti, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807 www.guarnerius.co.yu

INSTITUT SERVANTES - ŠPANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ SPANISH CULTURAL CENTER, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, 3034-183/ www.belgrado.cervantes.es INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.ﬁl.bg.ac.rs ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ITALIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, fax.3621-411 www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it

KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Nake Spasić 3, tel. 367-2564, www.nur.org.yu

RUSKI DOM / RUSSIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178 www.ruskidom.org.yu

REX, Jevrejska 16, tel./fax 3284-534 www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014/ www.skc.org.yu ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550 / www.kolarac.co.yu

KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000 BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977 www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242 DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849 www.domsindikata.com KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. 2638-264 SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 www.savacentar.com ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591 www.kolarac.co.rs

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ - ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888 KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE - THE MANSION OF DUCHESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA - THE MANSION OF DUKE MILOSH, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422 KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA - DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA - MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE - SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ - NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, 3306-000 www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538 VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ - VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE - SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM (direkcija), Đure Jakšića 9/IV, tel. 2187-360, 2637-753

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ - JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634

MUZEJ BEOGRADSKE TVRĐAVE – BELGRADE FORTRESS MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-4317

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE - YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Trg Nikole Pašića 11, tel. 328- 4317

MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877 VOJNI MUZEJ - MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan, tel. 3344-408, 3344-915 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126 MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE - NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ TOME ROSANDIĆA, Ljube Jovanovića 3, tel.265- 1434 MUZEJ IVE ANDRIĆA - IVO ANDRIC MUSEUM, Andrićev Venac 12, tel. 323-8397 ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA - THE CITY OF BELGRADE MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel.2630-825

ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJ ZEMUN - ZEMUN CITY MUSEUM, Glavna 9, tel. 316- 5234 TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA- MUSEUM OF MOTORCARS, Majke Jevrosime 30,tel. 3034-625 MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA - MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Beograd/Belgrade airport,tel. 2670-992, 2698-209 MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE – MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850 www.muzejnt.rs

PTT MUZEJ- POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3210-325 ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ - RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334

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PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2265

MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE – MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149

UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654 MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI - THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2626-630 MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Novi Beograd, Ušće Save bb, tel. 311-5713 www.msub.org.rs

MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF DESIGN, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494 www.mpu.org.rs

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - CINEMA MUSEUM, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.yu NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC COLLECTION Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100 www.nbs.rs e-mail izlozba@nbs.rs For individual visitors - every working day from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Organized groups are requested to book their visit in advance. Admittance free. For visit announcements please call: +381 11 3027-204, 3027-318 POSTAVKA NUMIZMATIČKE ZBIRKE U NARODNOJ BANCI SRBIJE Individualne posete – svakog radnog dana u vremenu od 10 do 16 časova. Grupne posete se zakazuju. Ulaz je besplatan. Zakazivanje poseta obavlja se telefonom na broj +381 11 3027-204, 3027-318 AUKCIJSKA KUĆA – AUCTION HOUSE MADL’ART, Kralja Milana 21, tel. 3244-824

IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 334-2400 ext.244 GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Andrićev venac 12, tel. 323-8789 GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 2630-635 GALERIJA FRESAKA - FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, tel. 3306-052, 2621-491 GALERIJA GRAFIČKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, tel. 2627-785 www. graﬁckikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, tel. 2627-497 www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 2622-926 GALERIJA-LEGAT MILICE ZORIĆ I RODOLJUBA ČOLAKOVIĆA, Rodoljuba Čolakovića 13, tel. 2663-173 GALERIJA-LEGAT PAJE JOVANOVIĆA, Kralja Milana 21, tel. 3340-176 GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIĆA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2622-163 GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU – SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, tel. 3283-490 GALERIJA NEW MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, tel. 3229-992 GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, tel. 2182-626 GALERIJA PRIRODNJAČKOG MUZEJA, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 328-4317 GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8, tel. 2612-023 GALERIJA STUDENTSKOG KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 2688-468 GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, tel. 2685-780 www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, tel. 3557-142 GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. 2623-128 www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA CENTRALNOG DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 323-4712 GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, tel.2185-794 JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIČKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, tel. 3238-789, Dositejeva 1, tel. 2627-135

OZON, Andrićev venac 12, tel.3036-024, 3238-789 SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, tel. 2630-940 UMETNIČKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIĆ, Mali Kalemegdan, tel. 2622-281 www.ulus.org.rs VELIKA GALERIJA DOMA KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442

ZEPTER GALERIJA, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414

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BIOSKOPI - CINEMAS 20. OKTOBAR, Balkanska 2, tel. 2687-182 AKADEMIJA 28, Nemanjina 28, tel. 361- 6020 BALKAN, Braće Jugovića 16, tel. 3343-491 CITY ACADEMIC, Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića 152, tel. 260- 9527 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića 179, tel.269- 1442 DOM OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 3248-202 DOM SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849 DVORANA KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kolarčeva 6, tel. 2621-174 JADRAN, Trg Republike 5, tel. 2624-057 JUGOSLAVIJA, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina bb, tel. 2676-484 KOZARA, Terazije 25, tel. 323-5648 MALI ODEON, Kneza Miloša 14-16, tel. 2643-280 MILLENNIUM, Knez Mihailova 19, tel. 2623-365 MUZEJ KINOTEKE, Kosovska 11, tel. 324-8250 ODEON, Kraljice Natalije 45, tel. 2643-355 RODA CINEPLEX, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 STER CITY CINEMA, Jurija Gagarina 16, Delta City, tel.220- 3400 ŠUMADIJA PALAS, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. 3555-465 TUCKWOOD CINEPLEX, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. 323-6517 VUK, Bul. kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2424-860 ZVEZDA, Terazije 40, tel. 264- 2057

KNJIŽARE - BOOK STORES www.knjigainfo.com AKADEMIJA, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 2636-514 APROPO, Cara Lazara 10, 2625-839 BEOPOLIS, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-9922 CIKLOSTIL, Kičevska 17, tel. 3441-900 DERETA, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 3033-503, 2627-934 GECA KON, Knez Mihailova 12, tel. 2622-073 INTERNATIONAL PRESS SERVICE- SKC, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 2659-193 MAMUT MEGASTORE, Sremska 2-4, tel. 2639-060 PLATO, Akademski plato 1, tel. 3034-808, rv/wh 0-24h Knez Mihailova 48, tel. 2625-834, rv/wh 0-24h Čika Ljubina 18-20, tel. 303-2196 SKZ, Kralja Milana 19, tel. 323-1593 STUBOVI KULTURE, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 328-1851 ZEPTER, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414 ZNAK PLUS, Terazije 24, tel. 306-7686 PRAVOSLAVNE KNJIŽARE ORTHODOX-CHRISTIAN BOOK STORES ATOS, Nušićeva 5, tel. 3224-234 BLAGODARNIK, Beogradska 33, tel. 3244-038 INOSTRANA KNJIGA - FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKS INTERNATIONAL PRESS SERVICE, Beoizlog, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281-859 ENGLISH BOOK, Kralja Petra 51, tel.3349-560 THE OXFORD CENTRE, Dobračina 27, tel. 2631-021, Dobračina 18a, 2631-947 PROEX, 1300 kaplara 1, tel. 2180-140

BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA - BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024 www.bgb.org.rs

NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE - SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs

UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509 www.unilib.bg.ac.rs

BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE ARHIV****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel. 3230-910 BATLEROVA KUĆA, Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel. 2188-033 mob. 065/2188-033 BELLA CASA, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 BELLE EPOQUE, Džordža Vašingtona 2, tel. 3345-383 BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 367-0562 COLONIAL SUN, Bulevar Vojvode Putnika 32-34, tel.3692-156 DAKA*****, Zemun, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 101-319 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h nat DAKA, Đure Daničića 4, tel. 3222-068 DEVETKA***, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783

ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422 EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ****, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944 GRČKA KRALJICA, Knez Mihailova 51, tel. 2638-363 IGUANA, Božidara Adžije 30, tel. 2443-383 INTERNATIONAL PRESS CENTER CLUB, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 2621-661 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 (live music) KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KLUB LICEJ, Đure Đakovića 31, tel. 3292- 672 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOLIBA, Dragice Pravice 7a, tel. 753-142 KRALJEVINA, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel.3305-388 KUMBARA****, Bulevar JA 46, Beli Potok, tel. 3906-834 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 METROPOLITAN GRILL*****, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140 NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 NOVI SALAŠ, Zemun, Sinđelićeva 34, tel. 2190-324 ORAČ***, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 OSKAR, Braće Baruh 6, tel. 184-726 PASTUV****, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-8058

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PERPER lux, Omladinskih brigada 18a, tel. 2606-046 (live music) PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494 RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN***, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3910-987 SALAŠ, Sinđelićeva 34, Zemun, tel. 2190-324 SKALA, Bežanijska 3, Zemun, tel. 196-605 SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 (live music) TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 UŠĆE****, Ušće bb, tel. 2139-692 VERDI, Terazije 5, tel. 322-2401 VUK****, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Žarka Zrenjanina 33, tel.240-4142 ZEPTER CLUB****, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414/114 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK****, Slavonska 26, Zemun, tel. 3166-256 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS FISH&BAR, Braće Jugovića 3 , tel. 2622-146 KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 PORTO, Francuska 52, tel. 322-5624 REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625 (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS AMPHORA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BUONGIORNO MARE, Strahinjića Bana 57a, tel.3284-776 mediterranean cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food KINESKI RESTORAN 888, Birčaninova 16, tel.2659-542 fax.2644-352 KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344 italian cuisine LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA****, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine PIZZA HUT, Makedonska 44, tel. 3243-255 italian cuisine POSLOVNI KLUB „KOŠUTNJAK”, Pere Velimirovića 1, tel. 661-344 venision PRIRODA, Batutova 11, tel. 2491-890 vegetarian-macrobiotic cuisine PUTUJUĆI GLUMAC, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 3341-024 italian cuisine QUE PASA, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel. 3284-764 international cuisine RESAVA, Resavska 24, tel. 3233-192 mediterranean cuisine ROYAL KNEZ***, Kneza Sime Markovića 10, tel. 2635-160 italian cuisine SOVA - MAO TAO, Gračanička 18, tel. 2622-656, fax 2620-668 chinese cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 sea food VELIKI ŠANGAJ, Omladinskih brigada 18b, tel. 137-986 chinese cuisine

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Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun tel: 011 2198-162 www.bellanapoli.rs VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine ZLATNI ORIJENT, Dr.Ivana Ribara 184a, tel.3187-385 chinese cuisine ZORBA, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6547 greek cuisine

RESTORAN PIZZERIE - RESTAURANTS PIZZERIAS ASTERIX, Ušće 1, tel. 311-2219 FONTANA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 88, tel. 3020-636 FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 GOLUB, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 204, tel. 421-401 Zemun, Ugrinovačka 3, tel. 316-19-89 KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344 ORAO, Bulevar despota Stefana 32, tel. 3228-836

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.063/7784-760 (live music) AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 BELA LAĐA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. 2600-222 ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DIJALOG, Ušće bb, tel. 311-4847 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467 (live music) KARIBI, Ušće bb, tel.2130-858 KLUB MAG, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel. 2698-398, KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 LAGUNA, Ušće bb, tel. 065/246-5539

MARINERO, Kej oslobođenja 11a, tel. 3165-953 (live music) OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 (live music) PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226

HOTELI – HOTELS ALEKSANDAR PALAS, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel. 3305-300, fax.3305-334 CONTINENTAL HOTEL BEOGRAD, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel. 2204-204 fax 311-1402 HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 fax 311-2234 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235 ADMIRAL CLUB, Venizelosova 31, tel.3038-260 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 fax 3095-501 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 fax 3554-368 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 fax 310-5351 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 fax 2688-389 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Krađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 fax 184-458 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 fax 3057-466 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 fax 3442-931 TOWNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 fax 2620-955 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800 fax 3314-801 ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422; fax 2686-437 BALKAN, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 fax 2687-581

BelGuest SUMMER 2009

115

ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 fax.2075-005 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 fax 3035-353 N, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 fax 3955-555 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 fax 2601-177 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 fax. 2561-090 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 fax. 3640-381 POŠTA, Savska 3, tel.3614-260 PRAG, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 3610-422 fax 3612-691 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 fax 361-2965 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426 fax 2626-459 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 fax 2190-724 SLODES, Borska 92F, tel. 3055-518 fax 3056-524 SPLENDID, Dragoslava Jovanovića 5, tel 3235-444 fax 324-3298 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 fax 3224-480

FACILITIES

TWO RESTAURANTS: - EXCLUSIVE & AVALA - SUMMER GARDEN RESTAURANT CONFERENCE ROOMS: - ATRIJUM, FORUM, BEOGRAD, HORIZONT, DIJALOG, BEST WESTERN CLUB, IDEJA SOUVENIR/MAGAZINE SHOP PARKING WITH SECURITY, EXCHANGE OFFICE, SAFE DEPOSIT BOX, ROOM SERVICE, LAUNDRY SERVICE ACCOMMODATION 172 ROOMS AND 8 SUITES WITH MINI BAR, SATELLITE TV, DIRECTDIAL TELEPHONE, WIRELESS INTERNET, BATHROOM WITH HAIR DRYER, OWN BALCONY (MOST WITH PARK VIEW), AIR CONDITIONING, NON-SMOKING ROOMS

BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 fax 657-344 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 fax 3231-951 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 fax 3162-648 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 fax 2431-517 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 fax 289-2462 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 fax 3238-027 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670 fax 3540-669

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 fax 8230-077 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 PRESIDENT ****, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 fax 2075-260 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. 341-6131 SUČEVIĆ M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

APARTMENTS- APARTMANI Kraljičini apartmani*****, Đure Daničića 13, tel.322-4318 Vila Kalemegdan, Strahinjića bana 7, tel.2637-856

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4000, 209-4444 www.beg.aero Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel. 2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs

JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.co.yu

Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4,

BEST WESTERN HOTEL M BULEVAR OSLOBOĐENJA 56A,11000 BELGRADE, SERBIA

PHONE: +381 11 30 90 401, +381 11 30 90 609, FAX. +381 11 30 95 501

E-MAIL OFFICE@HOTEL-M.COM, WWW.HOTEL-M.COM

tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com

AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroﬂot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com

116

SUMMER 2009 BelGuest

“NAPRED – UGOSTITELJSTVO” D.O.O. – BEOGRAD

CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879 QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166 www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/III, tel. 3035-738 SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739 www.srilankan.aero SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174 www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-7225 www.thy.com

DOMAĆE AVIO KOMPANIJE AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel.2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRWAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel.3112-123, www.jat.com AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroﬂot.ru

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - WAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9811 HITNA POMOĆ - EMERGENCY WARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - WEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9823 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAČNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .988 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

HOTEL N je smešten u mirnom i tipičnom ambijentu Voždovca. Od sadržaja hotel ima 108 soba, 3 apartmana, restoran, aperitiv bar, 2 sale za seminare sa pratećom opremom, internet u sobama i sl. The «N» Hotel is placed in quite and typical enviroment of Voždovac. The capacity of the hotel is 108 rooms, 3 apartments, restaurant, aperitive bar,2 fully-equipped conference rooms, internet, etc...

Your Pleasure Is Our Idea BILEĆKA 57 (VOŽDOVAC) Tel: +381 (0)11 39-721-83 Fax: +381 (0)11 39-555-55 www.hotel-n.rs E-mail: oﬃce@hotel-n.rs

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of Internal Aﬀairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.yu

ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vase Pelagića 32, tel. 3693-270 fax 3690-191 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th ﬂoor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593 BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120 BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204 BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454 CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel.2668-573 fax 2668-975 ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036

-Od hotela se veoma brzo i lako stiže do svih važnijih destinacija u gradu: centar, autobuska i železnička stanica, aerodrom... -From the «N» Hotel you can quickly and easily reach all major points of the city: centre, bus terminus, railway station, airport...

SOBE- ROOMS, APARTMANI -APARTMENTS, DNEVNI ODMOR VACATION, PANSIONFULL BOARD, RESTORAN - RESTAURANT, APERITIV BAR-APERITIVE BAR

Vase zadovoljstvoS je nasa117ideja BelGuest

UMMER 2009

FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507

GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566

INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169

IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042 KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163

KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974

MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday)

photo: Branko Jovanović

EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375

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MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013

MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 fax 896-732 NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400

NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216 POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892 REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Fruškogorska 1/II, tel. 2183-581 fax 303-6096

REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3613-964

SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221 SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, tel. 3065-815

ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday)

TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 3690-642 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3674-006 fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201

PRIVREDNE KOMORE - CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Terazije 23, tel. 3248-123 PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Resavska 13-15, tel. 3300-900 www.pks.komora.net PRIVREDNA KOMORA BEOGRADA, Kneza Miloša 12, tel. 2641-355 www.kombeg.org.rs BANKE - BANKS NARODNA BANKA SRBIJE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. 3248-841/ www.nbs.rs UDRUŽENJE BANAKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN ASSOCIATON OF BANKS, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 86/II, tel. 3020-760/ www.usb-asb.com

BEOGRADSKA BERZA - BELGRADE STOCK EXCANGE Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. 3221-599/ www.belex.co.rs

MENTOR REAL ESTATE AGENCY, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, 308-90-81 fax.308-90-82 www.mentorrent.co.rs

PC UŠĆE, EC, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85b, tel. 3010-858 fax 3010-813 R.BeO CONSTRUCTION d.o.o, mob. 063/203-929 VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466 fax 2920-472 mob.062/282-434 www.vosmediator.co.rs

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 /www.savacentar.com

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE ADDRESS REAL ESTATE JSCO SERBIA, Nemanjina 40/7, tel.365-00-90 www.address.co.rs AGENCIJA „HITPROM“, Strahinjića bana 29, tel.303-3036, 303-3037 www.hitprom.co.rs BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Djurdja 13, tel. 292-0377 www.beyond-realestate.com BRADMORE CONSULTING & LEASING, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel./fax: 637-570 COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 20, tel. 2663-863, fax.3674-538

DEVOX, Kralja Milutina 4, tel. 3699-388 www.devox.biz EURENT, Dobračina 21, tel.2623-395, 2620-680 EURODIPLOMATIC, Real Estate & Rental Agency, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, 308-68-79 mob.065/606 6 606 INVEST-IMPORT, Terazije 5, tel. 3220-027, 3248-081

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BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Dositejeva 26, tel./fax 2181-181, 2622-620,2626-899 www. metropoliten.com

EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs PANACOMP TRAVEL TOURISM AND TRADE, Novi Sad, Bulevar Cara Lazara 102, tel. 021/ 466-075 www.panacomp.net

VEKOL TOURS, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 3282-689 www.vekoltours.com

KUPOVINA – SHOPPING ZLATARE - JEWELERS JOKIĆ JEWELRY&WATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAJDANPEK, Makedonska 5, tel. 3343-251 MAESTRO JEWELERS, Continental hotel Beograd, tel. 311-1459, 311-3333 ext.721 Kolarčeva 4, tel. 303 30 91 NEW YORK FINE JEWELERY, Hotel Hyatt Regency Belgrade, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1204

PERIĆ&PERIĆ, Beograd, Požeška 150, tel.3543-790 Požarevac, Dunavska 116, tel.012/554-081 VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZEPTER JEWELERY, Kralja Petra I 32, tel. 328-1414 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990 GARDEN CENTAR- GARDEN CENTER Vidikovački venac 102a, tel.2322-322 www.gardencentar.co.rs

USLUGE - SERVICES INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525 INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557 BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 13, tel.2666-669 fax.3066-892 www.

Šumadijski trg 8, Beograd tel. 011 305 41000, 011 305 4203 www.hotelsumadija.com office@hotelsumadija.com

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british-int-school.org.uk

CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 fax.3675-340 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135 ECOLE FRANCAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762 INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL BELGRADE, Nake Spasić 4, tel.2667-130 www.insb.co.rs INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.3690-113, 2651-832 www.isb.co.rs

SLODES HOTEL The three-star Slodes hotel provides quality accommodation, hotel and restaurant services to athletes,businesspeople and other guests.

primainterschoolbelgrade.com

RUSSIAN SCHOOL, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 163-883

Borska 92f, Beograd

ŠKOLE STRANIH JEZIKA – FOREIGN LANGUAGES SCHOOLS CHELSEA, Svetozara Markovića 37, tel. 3232-467, 3235-531 GALINDO, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 311-4568 www.inlingua.net.rs ILIJA M. KOLARAC FOREIGN LANGUAGE CENTER, Studentski trg 5, tel. 636-991

tel. 30 555 18 30 565 25

www.hotelslodes.com

LOGOS, Kvarnerska 4, tel./fax 3693-059, 3693-060 www.logosinternationalschool.com PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Prahovska 3, tel. 369-0825 www.

MOBILNI OPERATORI / MOBILE OPERATORS 063 TELENOR, Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. 063/9863 www.telenor.co.rs 064 TELEKOM SRBIJA, Makedonska 2, tel. 064/789 www.telekom.rs 060 VIP MOBILE, Omladinskih brigada 21, 060/1234 www.vipmobile.rs BILET SERVIS - TICKET SERVICE BILET SERVIS, Trg Republike 5, tel. 30 333 11, 063/ 33 70 33 www.biletservis.co.rs EVENTIM YU D.O.O., Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 113, ulaz 3, Novi Beograd, tel./fax 144-438 www. eventim-yu.com ticketline.co.rs

hotel

slodes

HOTEL

TICKETLINE, ugao Knez Mihailove i Čika Ljubine-Plato Music Store, tel.2030-570 www. TIKET SERVIS, mob. 065/888 0 555, www.tiketservis.com

design by sergiostanic

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photo: Branko Jovanović

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 DEŽURNI ZUBARI - EMERGENCY DENTISTS NOVI BEOGRAD, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. 2222-100 STARI GRAD, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 2635- 236, 24-hour VRAČAR, Ivana Milutinovića 15, tel. 244-1413, 24-hour APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122

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PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 3065-888, Koste Jovanovića 87, tel.309-1000 EPILION, Admirala Geprata 13, tel. 361-1420, 361-0015 JEVREMOVA, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. 328-1051, 638-265 KLINIKA PETKOVIĆ, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDIKOM, Braničevska 8/1, tel. 3443-781, 3089-186 PAPIĆ, Milovana Marinkovića 23, tel. 397-1772, 397-4484 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 POLIMED, Cvijićeva 24, tel. 3291-787 VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIČKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 ZEMUNELO, Mostarska 12, Zemun, tel. 3164-493

USLUGE - SERVICES

A feeling of safety... Whenever you need

MOBILNI OPERATORI / MOBILE OPERATORS 063 TELENOR, Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. 063/9863 www.telenor.co.rs 064 TELEKOM SRBIJA, Makedonska 2, tel. 064/789 www.telekom.rs

INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj. co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-

1 3

y e a r s

o f

e x p e r i a n c e

022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525

INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557 BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora

Full medical and dental services, 24 hours a day...

060 VIP MOBILE, Omladinskih brigada 21, 060/1234 www.vipmobile.rs BILET SERVIS - TICKET SERVICE

Drajzera 13, tel.2666-669 fax.3066-892 www.british-int-school.org.uk CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 fax.3675-340 www.chartwellinternational.org DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693135 ECOLE FRANCAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762 INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL BELGRADE, Nake Spasić 4, tel.2667-130 www.insb.co.rs

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.3690-113, 2651-

BILET SERVIS, Trg Republike 5, tel. 30 333 11, 063/ 33 70 33 www. biletservis.co.rs EVENTIM YU D.O.O., Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 113, ulaz 3, Novi Beograd, tel./fax 144-438 www. eventim-yu.com TICKETLINE, ugao Knez Mihailove i Čika Ljubine-Plato Music Store, tel.2030-570 www.ticketline.co.rs TIKET SERVIS, mob. 065/888 0 555, www.tiketservis.com

832 www.isb.co.rs

LOGOS, Kvarnerska 4, tel./fax 3693-059, 3693-060 www.logosinternationalschool.com

PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Prahovska 3, tel. 369-0825 www.primainterschoolbelgrade. com RUSSIAN SCHOOL, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 163-883

ŠKOLE STRANIH JEZIKA – FOREIGN LANGUAGES SCHOOLS CHELSEA, Svetozara Markovića 37, tel. 3232-467,

Specialist medical services for children and adult patients 3235-531

GALINDO, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 311-4568 www. inlingua.net.rs

ILIJA M. KOLARAC FOREIGN LANGUAGE CENTER,

Operating theatre En-suite rooms for patients X-ray Laboratory Ultrasound diagnostics Physical therapy Dentist Studentski trg 5, tel. 636-991

Bel Medic on 2 locations! BEL MEDIC General Hospital Opposite “Red Star” stadium, Koste Jovanovića 87 BEL MEDIC Outpatient Clinic Opposite Belgrade Fair, Viktora Igoa 1

00-24 every day

including Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays

Tel. 309 1000

www.belmedic.com

BEL MEDIC International quality standard ISO 9001

PAINTBALL KLUB- PAINTBALL CLUB UNREAL, tel. 2427-624, 064/119-5597 rv/wh 16-20h, sub-ned/Sat-Sun 12-20h SKVOŠ TERENI – SQUASH COURTS Squash land, Kneza Višeslava 27,Pionirski grad, Košutnjak, tel.3548-040, rv/wh 10-23h www.squashland.com

BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.yu JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835 LEDENA DVORANA - ICE HALL PIONIR, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.766-667 HALE SPORTOVA - SPORT CENTERS BEOGRADSKA ARENA, Novi Beograd, Španskih boraca 20, tel. 2133-516 DOM SPORTOVA “PINKI”, Gradski park 2, Zemun, tel. 3160-270 CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU “VRAČAR”, Sjenička 1, tel. 452-342 CENTAR ZA KULTURU I SPORT “ŠUMICE”, Ustanička 125, tel. 289-4533 GRADSKI CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU, Deligradska 27, tel. 658-747 SRC “TAŠMAJDAN”, Ilije Garašanina 26-28, tel.3240-901 SRC “PIONIRSKI GRAD”, Kneza Višeslava 27, tel. 3542-094 SC “25. MAJ”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. 2622-866 SRC “BANJICA”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 SC “VOŽDOVAC”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-780 SC “ZVEZDARA”, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 412-353 SC “KOŠUTNJAK”, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 555-461 SC “PIONIR”, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.766-566 SRC “11. APRIL”, Autoput 2, Novi Beograd, tel. 2671-547 PALATA SPORTOVA, Pariske komune 20, tel. 601-658 PRSC TA “BALAŠEVIĆ”, Miška Kranjca 17a, tel.3510-920, 3583-809 www.balasevic-ta.co.yu - sa smeštajnim kapacitetima

ZABAVA - ENTERTAINMENT KAZINA – CASINOS ALEKSANDAR, Čumićevo sokače 55, tel. 324-3111 Bulevar despota Stefana 1, tel. 3346-060

FAIR PLAY, Hotel Kasina, Terazije 25, tel. 323-3613 FILM, Kneza Miloša 9, tel. 324-1290 GRAND CASINO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 319 43 95 Hotel METROPOL, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel. 323-0911 Hotel SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 244-4632 LONDON, Kralja Milana 28, tel. 2688-530 MERIDIAN, Mihajla Pupina 10b, tel. 3317-931 PARTIZAN, Dr Milutina Ivkovića 2, tel. 2648-680 RUSKI CAR, Obilićev venac 29, tel. 2635-873

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