BelGuestJesen08screen by Milena Mihaljcic

IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRŽAJA

M U S I C A L M A P O F B E LG R A D E NOTE BY NOTE, BANKNOTE NOTA PO NOTA, BANKNOTA

1 4 I N T E R V I E W - S T E FA N A R S E N I J E V I Ć IF YOU BELIEVE IN LOVE… AKO VERUJETE U LJUBAV... 22 ISIDORA SEKULIĆ LIFE IN A CIRCLE OF CHALK ŽIVOT U KRUGU KREDOM 3 0 G U E S T O F B E LG R A D E - S V E N B I C H L E R BELGRADE OF MY YOUTH BEOGRAD MOJE MLADOSTI

3 8 TO S R E C O M M E N D S - H O M E L A N D G A L L E R I E S TO DREAM IS SO HUMAN SAN JE TAKO LJUDSKI 46 CITY BREAK NOVI SAD AUTUMN IS HERE, MY DEAR JESEN STIŽE DUNJO MOJA 5 5 TO U R I S T D E S T I N AT I O N - S U B O T I C A SEDUCTIVE CHARM OF SECESSIONISM ZAVODLJIVI ŠARM SECESIJE 6 8 O B S E R VAT I O N F R O M H O LY M O U N TA I N AT H O S THE COUNTRY WHERE TIME STANDS STILL U ZEMLJI ZAUSTAVLJENOG VREMENA

7 8 BUSINESS CLUB 106 INFO

Belgrade Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Strahinjića bana 27 tel./fax 26 333 60, 29 101 06, mob tel. 065/84 97 582 e-mail: belguest@ikomline.net, belguest@gmail.com www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.yu www.tob.co.yu For Publisher - Za izdavača: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor For Copublisher - Za suizdavača: Jasna Dimitrijević, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Photo Editor - Urednik fotografije: Branko Jovanović Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Ivan Jočović, Branko Jovanović, Vlada Marković, Miloš Janković Contributors - Saradnici: Luka Stanisavljević, Vladimir Počuč, Jovan Sekulić, Jelena Tasić, Snežana Stojanović, Tanja Vanić Dragomir Antonić, Boško Krstić, Jovo Anđić Photographs- Fotografije: Branko Jovanović, Dragan Bosnić Editorial Secretary - Sekretar redakcije: Ana Gligorijević Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković, Miodrag Vujić, Marija Čikeš Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editor - Lektor za engleski: Alex Todorović Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Design assistante - Pomoćnik dizajnera: Ana Gligorijević Print - Štampa: Tipografic plus, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: National Theatre, Ballet Photograph - Branko Jovanović CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief = glavni i odgovorni urednik Dragana Marković - 2001, spring, / Beograd : Izdavačko preduzeće PONT : Turistička organizacija Beograda, 2001(Beograd, Tipografic plus). - 29 cm Tromesečno ISSN 1451-6446 = BelGuest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

photograph - Branko Jovanović

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elgrade lies on the Balkan Peninsula in South-Eastern Europe. The city developed on the high ground above the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. Thanks to its advantageous position as the natural crossroads of East and West, Belgrade has been known throughout history as the Gateway to the Balkans and the Gateway to Central Europe. The city’s first name was Singidunum, apparently coined from the name of the Singa tribe and the Celtic word dunum, meaning fortification. With the arrival of the Slavs it became Beo Grad, the White City. Under the reign of Despot Stefan Lazarević, Belgrade became, and remains, the capital of the Serbian nation. It is the only city apart from Constantinople which is dedicated to the Mother of God, and celebrates its own religious fete on the moveable feast of the Ascension. This old feast symbolises the perennial rise of the city from ruin and its inexhaustible faith in the future. The city covers a total area of 322,268 hectares. It is divided administratively into sixteen municipalities, ten urban and six suburban. The most recent census, in 2002, recording the city as having a population of 1,576,124 permanent residents of whom 1,273,651 live in the inner city area.

E D I T O R I A L

U V O D N I K

Dear Belgrade Visitors, Autumn in our capital, especially during these warm and pleasant days, alive in luxurious colours, lends a distinct tone to our town. All of you, especially Belgraders and their guests, have the chance to enjoy taking a walk at Kalemegdan Fortress whose stone walkways offer a majestic view of the confluence of the Sava into the Danube Rivers, or in any of the city’s numerous parks, or perhaps at Ada Ciganlija, the city’s river island located relatively close to the city centre, at nearby summer getaways, or they can attend one of many cultural events occurring in the city. Belgrade has prepared many events for lovers of culture: the October Salon, BEMUS, the International Book Fair, the jazz festival, Cinemania, the film festival “Free Zone”…Concert halls, museums, libraries, galleries, culture/ congress and business centers also offer broad-ranging and numerous programmes. Belgrade warm-heartedly opens itself to its guests, offering them its rich treasury of natural and cultural wealth at the crossroads of Eastern and Western civilasations, enriched by the contributions of the our generation that is turned towards European and international integration. Belgrade awaits its guests with open doors and an open heart, offering them limitless opportunities and unforgettable experiences as they discover their favourite personal spots within the larger whole. Welcome to Belgrade, City of the Future of Southeastern Europe. Therefore, welcome to Belgrade! Dragan Djilas Mayor of Belgrade

Dragi gosti Beograda, Jesen u našoj prestonici, naročito ovih dana kada je sunčana i prijatna, bogata raskošnim bojama, daje poseban ton našem gradu. Svi vi, ali i Beograđani i njihovi gosti, imaju priliku da, pre svega, uživaju u šetnji Kalemegdanom sa čijih se bedema pruža veličanstven pogled na ušće Save u Dunav, mnogobrojnim gradskim parkovima, ili Adom Ciganlijom, rečnim ostrvom nadomak centra grada, i okolnim izletištima, kao i da prisustvuju nekom od mnogobrojnih događaja iz kulture. Ljubiteljima kulture Beograd je pripremio mnoštvo programa: Oktobarski salon, BEMUS, Međunarodni sajam knjiga, džez festival, sinemaniju, filmski festival „Slobodna zona“... Koncertni holovi, muzeji, biblioteke, galerije, kulturni, kongresnii trgovinsko-poslvni centri takođe nude najrazličitije sadržaje i obiluju brojnim programima. Beograd se svojim gostima srdačno otvara kao raskošna riznica prirodnog i kulturnog nasleđa na razmeđu Istoka i Zapada obogaćena urbanističkim doprinosima naše generacije okrenute evropskim i svetskim integracijama. Beograd svoje goste dočekuje širom otvorenih vrata i otvorenog srca nudeći im bezbroj mogućnosti za nezaboravan provod i pronalaženje svog omiljenog kutka u njemu. Dobrodošli u Beograd, grad budućnosti Južne Evrope.

Skupština grada Beograda City Assembly of Belgrade

Dragan Đilas, Gradonačelnik Beograda Turistička organizacija Beograda Tourist Organization of Belgrade

M U S I C A L

M A P

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NOTE BY NOTE, BANKNOTE To come to a big city and to not hear a single piece of music would not only be boring, but also a bit ominous. A big city without music is the same as a great film without music. Films such as Birds by Alfred Hickok, or All Quiet on the Western Front, by Lewis Milestone, are not terribly cheerful. Are there any cities in the world without music? Nobody knows, but probably not. Anyway, don’t worry; Belgrade has its own music. The first layer of Belgrade’s music has another aspect, a very recognisable one – wedding brass bands. Your chances of hearing them are high because you have arrived in Belgrade in autumn, and according to our beliefs, that is the best time for weddings. If you happen to be in front of St Marko’s church at noon, you will certainly hear the familiar tones from Emir Kusturica’s films, even if they are not ordered by the bride, bridegroom or godfather.

he music of every city, including Belgrade, has its first layer, which is often seared into the memory of visitors. You don’t have to seek it out; it will seek you out, on the streets, squares, market places, parks and even in public transportation. As a rule, this kind of music is free of charge, but if the musician is good, it is a thoughtful and appreciative gesture to give him some coins. Young singers working in trolleys on the Crveni Krst-Plato lines are given a coin even if they are not so good. If they play some nice riffs, give them a banknote. Street musicians, from fife and accordion players to classical musicians, mostly play in Knez Mihailova Street. Aleksandar Filipović Alfi is prob-

ably the most famous. He even sells his own CDs. For almost 20 years, he has been located by the Ruski Czar Restaurant. During the 80s, at the beginning of Alfi’s musical street career, the name of the restaurant was Zagreb, which was a meeting place for Metallica and Iron Maiden fans, while Alfi played South American music and wore appropriate attire. At the beginning of the 1990s, when Zagreb was tossed from the city centre of Belgrade, Alfi started playing Serbian national songs, and the restaurant became a meeting place for Chetniks. Lately, Alfi has been playing his so-called urbane chansons, near the stand of the animal rights organization Orka in front of the restaurant. Every era brings its own names, gatherings and music.

ALL THAT JAZZ Jazz and classical music fans have also arrived in Belgrade at the right time. The 40th jubilee Belgrade Music Festival (Bemus) is being held in October, and will feature, among other performers, the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Blechschaden Brass Ensemble, Joseph Nadj, violinist David Garrett, Jacques Loussier Trio, and other local and foreign performers. As you are read this edition of our magazine, the Bemus festival is coming to its end. The Ohrid Legend by Stevan Hristić, in performance of the Radio Television Serbia (RTS) choir and symphony orchestra conducted by famous Bojan Sudjic, will mark the festival closing. Only a week after Bemus, another very important event starts – the Belgrade Jazz Festival. It was first set up in 1971, when Dizi Gilespi, Sonny Stit, Kai Winding, Thelonious Monk, Al McKibbon and Art Blakey played together as The Giants of Jazz in Dom Sindikata. The festival, therefore, deserves to bear an international name. Jo Faddis, followed by Radio Television Serbia Big Band and the Christian

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

Scott quintet, a new hero of jazz trumpet, will be the stars of this year’s festival. When there is no festival, we would like to recommend Sunday concerts at Kolarac University to fans of classical music and the Radovic Theatre’s club in Abardareva Street to jazz fans. There are some other jazz clubs in Belgrade. You can check on a separate list. Those who prefer blues will go to Tramvaj near the Vuk Stefanovic Karadzic monument or to Kuglas, near the Palilula market-place. Fans of salsa and other Latin American rhythms can opt for one of several clubs, out of which

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Gauchos is to be singled out. Located near the Zoo, Gauchos is the venue where every Thursday from 10 p.m. you can hear the Serbian Cuban salsa band ¡Salsa y punto!. Most of the rafts on the Sava and the Danube Rivers stop working in autumn, except for a few, including Akapulko near Hotel “Yugoslavia” on the Zemun side. This raft is known for quality live music. To fans of techno we recommend the club Plastic on Takovska Street and Underground beneath Kalemegdan, where many world famous DJs have played. Those who prefer house music

can go to Cafe Bizarre or nearby Gaudi on Gospodar Jevremova Street. ALTERNATIVE The Student Cultural Centre near Belgrade Palace and Academy in Rajiceva Street have always been the centre of Belgrade alternative life, and playing there is a matter of honour for every new band, in spite of sometimes poor organisation. But alternative music fans find their havens at new places all the time. Siprazje in Golsvortijeva Street, and Zica in Kralja Marka Street have been popular in the last

year. Thursday at 9 pm is reserved for Reggae Jam Sessions, and new hopes for Belgrade’s alternative scene such as Krs, Repetitor, Petrol, Grupa kao takva, Ruski formalisti and others who play in these clubs. If no live music is scheduled, cult indie DJ nights are organised, the most famous being Indie-go. If you come to Belgrade next summer, you should visit Kalemegdan at that time. Only then will you get the full impression. If you are looking for something authentically Belgrade, you should go to Skadarlija restaurants, where you can listen to bands playing traditional old towne music. And what kind of music is that? It is melancholic, Bohemian music, usually played on instruments such as violin, double-bass, tambourine, followed by several male singers, and it should be listened to while eating šopska salad, ten kebabs with onion and drinking something from a jug. The names of the Skadarlija restaurants comprise a number and animal or object, such as: Two Deer (“Dva jelena”), Three Hats (“Tri šešira”), Two White Pidgeons (“Dva bela goluba”), Six Pheasants (“Šest fazana”), Fourteen Umbrellas (“Četrnaest kišobrana”), Eight Hundred Thirty Four Tooth Picks (“Osamsto trideset četiri čačkalice”). We are joking. Only the first three names really exist, and the tooth picks were counted out by Justin Hoffman in Rain Man. LUKA STANISAVLJEVIĆ photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

Jazz clubs

Big Dill Jazz Club, Resavska 32 Hemingvej, Vrtlarska 55 Jazz Klub Rif, Makenzijeva bb Ptica Jazz Club, Šantićeva 8 Plato Pub, Akademski plato 1 Radović Club, Abardareva 1

Salsa, latino

Relax Plato Club, Palata Beograd Plato Industria, Studentski trg Havana Café Club, Nikole Spasića 1 Sunset Cafe, Ada Ciganlija Gauchos, Dunavska 17 Malandro cafe, Strahinjića Bana 44

Other clubs

Akademija, Rajićeva 10 Ana 4 pištolja, Svetozara Radića 15 Andergraund Club , Pariska 1a Apartman, Karađorđeva 43 Atom, Dušanova 13 Barutana, Kalemegdan Basement (ex Zvezda), Rajićeva 15 Baltazar, Karađorđeva 9 Bitef Art Cafe, Skver Mire Trailović 1 Bona Fides, Beograd, Bul. Kralja Aleksandra 67 Cabaret Rose, Vase Pelagića 54 Cvijeta bar lounge club, Mali Kalemegdan 1 Crazy (Van Helsing), Svetogorska 14 Teatro Bar (ex Drama, XL), Sarajevska 26 Ex Džungla, Skadarska 40C F6 Club Beograd, Francuska 6 Fili Klub, Resavska 32

Flash (ex Bus), Abardareva 1b Grotto, Nušićeva 8, Beograd Gutemberg, Resavska 28 Incognito, Nemanjina 4 Klub Doma Omladine, Makedonska 22 KPGT, Radnička 3 KST Klub, Beograd, Bul.Kralja Aleksandra 73 Kuća, Braće Krsmanović 5 Magacin 3, Belgrade Club, Karađorđeva 2-4 Mondo, Takovska 34 Mr. Stefan Braun Belgrade, Nemanjina 4/IX OH Cinema!, Gračanička 18 Ona a ne neka druga, Grobljanska 9, Zemun Plastic Klub, Beograd, Đušina 7 Planet Bigz, Bul.Vojvode Mišića 17 Sargon Klub, Pariska 1 Taš Klub, Beograd, Ilije Garašanina 26 Virus, Kneza Miloša 9

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

NOTA PO NOTA, BANKNOTA Doći u veliki grad i ne čuti ništa od muzike bilo bi ne samo dosadno nego i malo zlokobno. Veliki grad bez muzike bio bi kao veliki film bez muzike. Ima i takvih filmova. U njih spadaju Ptice Alfreda Hičkoka i Na zapadu ništa novo Luisa Majlstona. To baš i nisu veseli filmovi. Ne znamo da li ima i gradova bez muzike, valjda ih nema. U svakom slučaju, budite bez brige, u Beogradu ima muzike.

uzika svakog grada, pa i Beograda, ima svoj prvi sloj po kome je gosti tog grada često najviše i pamte. Taj sloj ne morate tražiti, on će naći vas, na ulicama, trgovima, pijacama i u parkovima, a nekad i u gradskom prevozu. Takva muzika je po pravilu besplatna, ali ako je muzičar dobar, lepo je dati mu poneki novčić. Malim pevačima u trolejbusima na relaciji od Crvenog krsta do Platoa treba dati novčić čak i ako nisu dobri muzičari. A ako odsviraju i neku lepu notu, dajte im banknotu. Uličnih svirača, od frulaša i harmonikaša, do klasičnih muzičara, ima najviše u Knez Mihailovoj ulici. Verovatno najpoznatiji među njima, koji uveliko prodaje i svoje kompakt diskove, jeste Aleksandar Filipović Alfi. Lokacija mu je ista već dvadesetak godina, kod restorana Ruski car. Tokom osamdesetih godina prošlog veka, na početku Alfijeve ulične muzičke karijere, taj restoran se zvao Zagreb, oko njega su se skupljali poklonici grupa Metallica i Iron Maiden, a Alfi je svirao južnoameričke tonove i nosio prikladnu odeću. Početkom devedesetih Zagreb je proteran iz centra Beograda, Alfi je zasvirao srpske nacionalne pesme, a ispred restorana su počeli da se okupljaju četnici. U poslednje vreme Alfi svira svoje, kako ih sam naziva, „urbane šansone”, a ispred restorana je štand organizacije za zaštitu prava životinja „Orka”. Svako vreme donosi svoja imena, svoja okupljanja i svoju muziku. Prvi sloj muzike Beograda ima još jedan vid, vrlo prepoznatljiv. To su duvački svadbarski orkestri. Velike su šanse da ćete čuti i njih, pošto ste stigli u Beograd u jesen, a to je upravo doba kad se, po našem narodnom verovanju, treba venčavati. Ako se subotom ili nedeljom oko podneva zadesite na platou ispred crkve svetog Marka, svakako ćete čuti zvuke koje znate iz filmova Emira Kusturice, čak iako ih ni mladenci ni kumovi nisu tražili. SAV TAJ DŽEZ Ljubitelji džeza i klasične muzike takođe su stigli u Beograd u pravi čas. Oktobar je mesec održavanja četrdesetih, jubilarnih, Beogradskih muzičkih svečanosti (Bemus), na kojima će nastupiti Beogradska filharmonija, Ansambl limenih duvača Blechschaden, Jožef Nađ, violinista Dejvid Geret, Žak Lusije Trio i drugi domaći i strani izvođači. U vreme dok čitate ovaj broj našeg časopisa, festival Bemus se bliži svom zatvaranju, koje će obeležiti Ohridska legenda Stevana Hristića, u izvođenju hora i simfonijskog orkestra RTS pod dirigentskom palicom čuvenog Bojana Suđića. Nedelju dana posle zatvaranja Bemusa počinje jednako važna manifestacija – Beogradski džez festival. Pokrenut je 1971. godine, kada su se u Domu

sindikata na istoj bini našli Dizi Gilespi, Soni Stit, Kai Vinding, Telonius Mank, Al Mekkibon i Art Blejki, u sastavu The Giants of Jazz. Taj festival s pravom nosi svoje internacionalno ime. Ove godine će među glavnim zvezdama biti Jon Fadis u pratnji Big benda RTS, i Kvintet Kristijana Skota, novog heroja džez trube. Kad nema festivala, ljubiteljima klasične muzike ćemo najpre preporučiti nedeljne matine koncerte na Kolarčevom narodnom univerzitetu, a ljubiteljima džeza klub pozorišta Radović u Aberdarevoj ulici. Ima još nekoliko džez klubova, spisak stavljamo zasebno. Ko preferira bluz, najpre će otići u Tramvaj kod Vukovog spomenika, ili u Kuglaš kod Palilulske pijace. Ljubitelji salse i drugih latinoameričkih ritmova na raspolaganju imaju nekoliko klubova, od kojih možda treba izdvojiti Gauchos iza Zoološkog vrta, gde svakog četvrtka od 10 uveče svira srpsko-kubanski salsa bend ¡Salsa y punto!. Splavovi na Savi i Dunavu u jesen već dobrim delom prestaju da rade, sa izuzetkom nekolicine, među kojima je Akapulko kod hotela Jugoslavija na zemunskoj strani. Ovaj splav je poznat upravo po kvalitetnoj živoj svirci. Poklonicima tehno muzike preporučićemo Plastik u Takovskoj ulici i Andergraund ispod Kalemegdana, gde su do sada gostovali mnogi svetski poznati DJ-evi. Oni koji više vole house, svoj provod mogu potražiti u Cafe Bizzare i obližnjem Gaudiju u Gospodar Jevremovoj. ALTERNATIVA Studentski kulturni centar kod Palate Beograd i Akademija u Rajićevoj ulici dve su tačke oko kojih

se alternativni život u Beogradu vrti otkad postoji, i za svaki novi bend je pitanje časti da tamo zasvira, čak i ako koncerti na tim mestima nisu koncerti iz snova, zbog ne uvek najbolje organizacije. Ali ljubitelji alternativne muzike svoje utočište nalaze stalno i na novim mestima. U poslednjoj godini dana aktuelni su Šipražje u Golsvortijevoj i Žica u ulici Kraljevića Marka. Sredom od 9 uveče tu je na programu Rege džem sešn, a u tim klubovima sviraju nove uzdanice beogradske alternativne scene kao što su Krš, Repetitor, Petrol, Grupa kao takva, Ruski formalisti i drugi. Kad nema žive svirke, na takvim mestima se održavaju kultne indie DJ večeri, među kojima je najpoznatiji Indie-go. Ako navratite u Beograd opet sledećeg leta, svratite i na ovo veče na Kalemegdanu, tada je ugođaj potpun. Ako tražite nešto autentično beogradsko, tu su restorani Skadarlije, sa svojim orkestrima koji sviraju starogradske pesme. Kakva je to muzika? To je melanholična boemska muzika koju obično izvode violina, kontrabas, tamburica i par muških vokala, a sluša se, po pravilu, uz šopsku salatu, deset ćevapa s lukom i ponešto iz bokala. Imena skadarlijskih restorana generisana su tako što najpre ide broj a zatim neka životinja ili predmet: Dva jelena, Tri šešira, Dva bela goluba, Šest fazana, Četrnaest kišobrana, Osamsto trideset četiri čačkalice. Šalimo se, postoje samo prva tri. Fazani i kišobrani su fikcija, a čačkalice je izbrojao Dastin Hofman u Kišnom čoveku. LUKA STANISAVLJEVIĆ fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

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I N T E R V I E W |

S T E FA N A R S E N I J E V I Ć , D I R E C TO R

IF YOU BELIEVE

IN LOVE… The idea was that we would have grey, cold surroundings, concrete buildings, snow flurries that bring the cold, an absence of warm colours, and that the warmest sections of a painting would be faces. Because when someone thinks about leaving the country, what he or she will miss most is people. If this departure were easy, this film would not exist. “Everything is black, in order, a woman sits in a taxi, goes to the airport and leaves.” There is no film. Anica obviously has a difficult time leaving because all of the people and relationships around her are warm. That is the truth about Belgrade. It is not the most beautiful town in the world, but its warmth, that distinct energy among people, lends the city its special charm.

fter many years in domestic film during which we primarily laughed and cursed without good reason, we honour the exceptions that definitely do exist. The film Love and Other Crimes appeared as a logical continuation of a fundamental substance that is called Serbian film. It would be nice if you go see the film. And whether before or after the film, read this interview. The film will, I am quite sure, bring on a sense of catharsis. This film does not end when the lights once again displace the darkness of the cinema hall. Rather, the film remains within you for as long as you allow. Give it space “to breathe” for as long as possible. In the end, however, regardless of how sad or wistful it may seem at first, the film brings a healing because we have all lived in Serbia for the past 15 years. We need a catharsis for a new beginning, and this interview for a better understanding of the young director Stefan Arsenijević, for whom this represents his first feature-length film after several award-winning documentary and short films.

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Your film Love and Other Crimes had its Belgrade premiere not long ago, after the international premiere in Berlin. The thematic framework of the film, which discusses many themes, is about Anica, a young Belgrade woman in her early 40s. As the film in its essence tells stories, what is it that you wanted to say with your first feature film? What is this film about for you? - There was a lot that fit into this film. In the beginning, even in Berlin, I used to say that the film was about emigration, as that kind of idea was behind the film. The film sublimated the emotions of everything we have experienced over the last 15 years. It tells the story of what it is like to live in Serbia today, about the dilemma of whether it is better to remain or to leave, a question that continues to press young people. Essentially, this film is a story about love. I tried to address those complex and recurring feelings we call love. I have always been most drawn to emotions in film, all of those manifestations of love, a story-line

that develops over just one day and has all of its manifestations, such as a difference in age. I was curious whether I would be able to conquer it as a director. The film is full of a series of other love stories that are a reflection of the main story. This is an acting film and therefore the relations between the characters are especially important. Love is the inner material of these relations, sometimes tacit, sometimes indiscernible at first sight. For me, it was in fact most interesting to understand what love is at this moment. The title Love and Other Crimes is a paraphrasing of Marquez’s About Love and Other Demons. It’s a melodrama, as you called it yourself, and it really does talk about love, but in such a way that the emphasis is more focused on not connecting, fear of intimacy and abandonment rather than on different more desirable forms of love. - It appears that those forms of love are more present in our lives. I could have made a romantic comedy, and it would probably have been

Scene from film: Milena Dravić

more successful, but I was more interested in this other side. I could have created a more traditional account; a young man wants girl, there are many obstacles between them, but everything works out with a happy ending. Of course, the film “as is” has an open ending, and we let the viewer choose the basic emotions that settle accounts at the end of the love story. But one must admit that at this time and age, your account is correct. - I don’t have the impression that the film sends a negative message. One of my professors said to me that the very fact that love is still possible under such circumstances, as shown in the film, is more than enough for hope. The film is a form of catharsis. Anica says goodbye to her life as she had known it up to that point, and she goes off to search for a new beginning. It appears that for you as well, if you were to round out the last 15 years in Serbia, this film can be seen as a sort of catharsis. What did you say goodbye to? - Various friends told me after the premiere something along the lines of “You are a happygo-lucky kind of guy, but the film is somber”.

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Well, when I sat down to make my first featurelength film, it was as though it just came out of me. Everything I’ve experienced for the past 15 years just came out of me. Generally, I am lighter and more witty than my film. At the same time, when I started to work on the film, I could not use humour to make certain situations lighter, which is something I usually do. That simply did not seem honest or sincere. A German producer used to call me during shooting, because he was looking at the dailies (the daily shots), without sound of course, and he said: ‘But this doesn’t seem witty, like the script.’ And the script was more witty. And then I finally understood. The film was my catharsis, all of my suppressed traumas and misfortunes. Yet all of the feelings that I used humour to overcome while moving forward in life are still there. They had to come out in order to free myself of them. The reaction of the public shows me that this is some collective space and our common catharsis. I don’t know whether I have freed myself from something, but the film had a liberating effect on me. After a discussion with the public in Berlin and at other European film festivals after projections, they asked me how the public in Belgrade

would react. I’ve seen different reactions, as in Edindburgh, where people cried. I always said that my ultimate goal is catharsis. I hope that the film will make local audiences laugh at some points, but I also hope that some of the darker tones, which is the result of catharsis, will lead to some healing, as was the case with ancient tragedy: identifying with the heroes through tragedy, which leads to a cleansing. All of that, somehow, happened to me as well. I freed myself of something that I did not even know I was carrying; the accumulated darkness of growing up in the 1990s in Serbia. So, I freed myself of all that. My next film will be incomparably more witty. The absence of colours, the grey mass of New Belgrade rows of flats, the public theatre of graffiti, the solarium “The Sun” that is closed, because there is no sun, yet so much warmth. How did you achieve that? The director of photography, set designer, and I sat down at the beginning of the film and created an overall visual concept. We wanted to set the action in a grey and cold environment, concrete buildings, flurries of snow that bring the cold, the absence of warm colours, and for the warmest

surfaces on the screen to be faces. When someone considers leaving the country, what they will miss most is people. Anica is kept here by faces. If leaving were that easy, this kind of film would not even exist: “Everything is black, okay, the woman sits in a taxi and goes to the airport.” – In that case, there is no film. Anica obviously has great difficulty because all of the people and relations around her are warm. That is the truth about Belgrade. It is not the most beautiful city in the world, but its warmth, that unique energy among people, is its distinct beauty. European film critics have mostly categorised Love and Other Crimes as a “transition film” of the post-communist and post-modern periods… What did we gain in this post…post…post….and what did we lose? - The film offers this kind of reading. The film speaks about identity, transition, but I do not deal with that in a daily political context, but in the variation of clarifying what in all that influenced the main character’s behaviour and decisions. The whole story with the “post” prefix to me signals that we have been somewhere, but now we have

headed off somewhere else, but now it seems that we are not arriving to that destination. We have been living in that vacuum for a very long time already. I grew up in a period during which we had lost our identity. While our country was disappearing, we returned to dramas about the identity of the Serbian people. I grew up in confusion, and my identity is the same way, I believe. And then I realised at some point that this is a characteristic unto itself, perhaps even a quality. I spent six months in Germany editing film. That was the first time that I had spent a longer time living abroad, in surroundings that were not my own. That is usually the kind of environment in which a person begins to question him or herself; well, who am I? And then I realised that this was an identity that had retained difference, which is actually quite good and positive. And if we stopped choosing sides and realised that we were both one and the other, and that that is a virtue, I think we would be a lot calmer. I have friends everywhere, in the East, West…in Africa. All of that is not foreign to me. Our culture is a place of meeting. The influence of the Ottoman culture, the Austro-Hungarian, Roman, all of this lives

simultaneously inside of us. We use two alphabets, which I don’t even notice until my friends become confused while writing street names simultaneously in two different alphabets. Our traditional Sunday lunch can include sarma (Turkish) and saher cake (Viennese) for desert. This becomes a completely natural combination of two totally different worlds. Sometimes during the shooting of a film, there will be a few possible endings, and how the film will end does not become known until the end of shooting. This happens even with some of the biggest names in directing? Have you had this dilemma? - Producers have had this dilemma, especially foreign ones. They were always trying to convince me that a film should have an explicitly happy ending. To me, that seemed totally dishonest and incorrect. I wouldn’t feel good. That would not be the film I had set out to make and it would not be me. Again, the film opens and ends very subtly. So, if you believe in love, then maybe…. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

Scene from film: Hanna Schwamborn

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

I N T E R V J U

S T E F A N

A R S E N I J E V I Ć ,

R E D I T E L J

AKO VERUJETE

U LJUBAV... P

osle prilično godina u kojima smo se u domaćem filmu uglavnom bezrazložno smejali i psovali – čast izuzecima koji definitivno postoje, film Ljubav i drugi zločini došao je kao logičan nastavak osnovnog tkiva koje se zove srpski film. Bilo bi lepo da ga pogledate. I da pre ili posle gledanja filma, kako god želite, pročitate ovaj intervju. Film će vam, prilično sam uverena, doneti katarzu. Neće se završiti projekcijom, već će se, onoliko dugo koliko dopustite, gledajte da to bude što duže, zadržati u vama. Na kraju će ipak, ma kako vam možda tamno ili setno delovao u početku, doneti lekovito olakšanje. Jer svi smo mi živeli u Srbiji poslednjih petnaestak godina. Katarza nam je potrebna za novi početak, a ovaj intervju za bolje razumevanje mladog reditelja Stefana Arsenijevića, kome je ovo prvi celovečernji igrani film, posle nekoliko dokumentarnih i kratkih igranih, za koje je kod nas i u svetu već višestruko nagrađivan. Čak do očekivanja koja isključuju pravo na grešku. Greške i nije bilo.

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Vaš film Ljubav i drugi zločini imao je nedavno, posle svetske berlinske, i domaću, beogradsku, premijeru. Jedan dan u životu Anice, Beograđanke u ranim četrdesetim, tematski je okvir za film koji govori o mnogo čemu. Kako je film u svojoj suštini pripovedanje priče, šta je to što ste svojim prvim igranim filmom želeli da ispričate? O čemu je ovaj film za Vas? - Mnogo toga je stalo u taj film. U početku sam, čak i u Berlinu, pričao da je to film o emigraciji, takva ideja i jeste postojala. U filmu je sublimirana emocija svega kroz šta smo prošli poslednjih petnaestak godina. On priča o tome kako je živeti u Srbiji danas, o dilemi „otići ili ostati”, na kojoj se još lome mlađe generacije. Suštinski, ovaj film je ipak priča o ljubavi. Pokušao sam da se bavim tim kompleksnim i neizbežnim osećanjem koje nazivamo ljubav. Mene su u filmu najviše zanimale emocije, sve te različite manifestacije ljubavi, neobična ljubavna priča koja se dešava u samo jednom danu, i ima sve svoje manifestacije: razliku u godinama... Zanimalo

me da li ću rediteljski moći to da savladam. U filmu postoje i druge ljubavne priče, koje su odrazi one osnovne. Film je glumački, tako da su odnosi među likovima posebno važni. Ljubav jeste unutrašnje svojstvo tih odnosa, ponekad neizrečeno, nekada nečitljivo na prvi pogled. Bilo mi je, u stvari, najzanimljivije da uhvatim šta je sve to ljubav u ovom trenutku. Naziv Ljubav i drugi zločini parafraza je Markesovog naslova O ljubavi i drugim demonima. On jeste melodrama, kako ste ga i sami označili, i on zaista govori o ljubavi, ali pre o mimoilaženju, o strahu od bliskosti, o napuštanju, nego o drugim i drugačijim, poželjnijim oblicima ljubavi. - Izgleda da su baš takvi oblici ljubavi danas česti u životu. Mogao sam i da napravim romantičnu komediju, ali me više zanimala ova druga strana. Mogao sam i da postavim klasičnu dramaturgiju: mladić želi devojku, između njih su mnoge prepreke, ali se na kraju sve završava hepiendom.

Ideja je bila da imamo sivo, hladno okruženje, betonske zgrade, sneg koji stalno provejava i donosi hladnoću, nema toplih boja, a na površini slike najtopliji delovi su lica. Jer kada neko razmišlja o odlasku iz zemlje, to što bi mu sasvim izvesno najviše nedostajalo jesu ljudi. Da je takav odlazak lak, ovaj film ne bi ni postojao: „Sve je crno, u redu, žena seda u taksi do aerodroma i odlazi.” Nema filma. Anica, očigledno, ima veliki problem da ode, jer su svi ti ljudi i odnosi oko nje – topli. To jeste istina o Beogradu. Beograd nije najlepši grad na svetu, ali je njegova toplina, posebna energija među ljudima – to što je njegova specifična lepota.

Naravno, film ima otvoreni kraj, dopustićemo gledaocima da sami izaberu osnovnu emociju razrešenja našeg ljubavnog slučaja. Mada se mora priznati da je Vaša postavka, osluškujući život danas – tačna. - Nemam utisak da film šalje negativnu poruku. Jedan moj profesor mi je rekao da je sama činjenica po kojoj je ljubav ipak moguća u tom filmu – sasvim dovoljna za nadu. Film je na neki način katarzičan. Anica se oprašta od dotadašnjeg života i kreće u potragu za novim početkom. Čini se da je i za Vas, zaokružujući vreme od poslednjih petnaestak godina života u Srbiji, ovaj film svojevrsna katarza. Od čega ste se Vi opraštali? - Prijatelji su mi posle premijere u nekoliko navrata rekli da sam ja za njih vesela osoba, a da je film mnogo tmurniji. Kada sam krenuo da pravim svoj prvi celovečernji igrani film, kao da je iz mene izašlo, isplivalo sve to što sam i ja lično prolazio živeći u Srbiji poslednjih petnaest godina. Generalno, ja jesam vedriji i duhovitiji, nego što je to moj film, ali je isto tako činjenica da kada sam počeo da radim na filmu neke stvari nisam mogao da olakšavam humorom, što obično radim. To mi jednostavno nije delovalo iskreno, istinito. Nemački producent me stalno zvao tokom snimanja, jer je gledao dnevne snimke, doduše bez tona i govorio: ali ovo ne deluje duhovito, kao što je u scenariju. Scenario jeste bio duhovitiji. A onda sam shvatio. Taj film jeste moja katarza, sve potisnute traume, nesreće, osećanja koja sam presvlačio u humor, pa išao dalje još su bili tu. Moralo je to da izađe napolje kako bih se oslobodio. Po reakcijama publike, vidim da je to neko opšte mesto i naša zajednička katarza. Ne znam da li sam se opraštao od nečega... Ali je film na mene delovao kao oslobađanje. Tokom razgovora sa publikom u Berlinu i na drugim evropskim festivalima posle projekcije pitali su me kako će publika u Beogradu reagovati na film. Na primer, desilo mi se da u Edinburgu ljudi plaču. I uvek sam govorio da je moj osnovni cilj – katarza. Nadam se da će naše ljude film povremeno nas-

mejati, ali da će ih možda upravo tim tamnijim tonovima u kojima i jeste ishodište katarze – izlečiti. Kao što je to slučaj sa antičkom tragedijom: identifikovanje sa junacima, kroz tragediju koja daje pročišćenje. Sve se to nekako dogodilo i meni. Oslobodio sam se nečega što nisam ni znao da sve vreme nosim. Tog nekog nakupljenog mraka odrastanja u Srbiji devedesetih. Eto, svega toga sam se oslobodio. Moj naredni film biće neuporedivo duhovitiji. Nedostatak boje, ta siva gama novobeogradskih blokova, pozornica grafita, solarijum Sunce koji ne radi, jer sunca nema, a ipak tako mnogo topline. Kako ste to postigli? - Direktor fotografije, scenograf i ja smo na samom početku rada na filmu seli i napravili taj vizuelni koncept. Ideja je bila da imamo sivo, hladno okruženje, betonske zgrade, sneg koji stalno provejava i donosi hladnoću, nema toplih boja, a na površini slike najtopliji delovi su lica. Jer kada neko razmišlja o odlasku iz zemlje, to što bi mu sasvim izvesno najviše nedostajalo jesu ljudi. Da je takav odlazak lak, ovaj film ne bi ni postojao: „Sve je crno, u redu, žena seda u taksi do aerodroma i odlazi.” Nema filma. Anica, očigledno, ima veliki problem da ode, jer su svi ti ljudi i odnosi oko nje – topli. To jeste istina o Beogradu. Beograd nije najlepši grad na svetu, ali je njegova toplina, posebna energija među ljudima – to što je njegova specifična lepota. Film Ljubav i drugi zločini evropska kritika najčešće definiše kao film tranzicije, postkomunističkog perioda, postmoderne... Šta je to što smo mi u tom vremenu post, post, posta dobili, a šta izgubili? - Film nudi takvo čitanje. On govori o identitetu, tranziciji, ali se ja time ne bavim u nekom dnevnopolitičkom kontekstu, već u varijanti pojašnjavanja šta je sve od toga uticalo na ponašanje junaka filma i njihove odluke. Čitava priča o tom prefiksu post za mene znači da smo mi bili negde, pa smo krenuli negde drugde – pa sad nikako da stignemo. U tom vakuumu mi već predugo živimo. Šta smo sve u međuvremenu pogubili, saznaćemo

tek kada stignemo na cilj – u neko konačno uređeno društvo. Mada se mora priznati da je ceo svet u nekoj vrsti tranzicije. Neizvesnost se oseća svuda. U toj nekoj neizvesnosti mi smo već odrasli i navikli da živimo. Odrastao sam u trenutku kada smo gubili identitet. Kada je jedna zemlja nestajala, a mi smo se vraćali predstavama o identitetu srpskog naroda, koje su često bile nejasne... Rastao sam u konfuziji, takav mi je, čini mi se, i identitet. A onda sam u nekom trenutku shvatio da je to svojstvo po sebi, čak kvalitet. Šest meseci sam, montirajući film, radio i živeo u Nemačkoj. To je bio prvi put da duže boravim izvan zemlje, u sredini koja nije moja. To je obično okvir u kome čovek krene da se preispituje: Pa dobro, ko sam to ja? A onda shvatim da je to identitet u kome je sadržan sudar različitog, koji je, u stvari, čak vrlo dobar, pozitivan. I kada bismo prestali da se opredeljujemo za strane i shvatili da smo i jedno i drugo, i da je to vrlina, mislim da bismo bili mnogo mirniji. U Africi, na istoku i zapadu, svuda imam prijatelje. I sve mi to nije strano. Naša kultura je mesto sastajanja. Uticaji otomanske kulture, austrougarske, rimske – sve to istovremeno živi u nama. Kao što imamo dva pisma, što i ne primetim dok se moji prijatelji stranci ne zbune paralelnim ispisivanjem imena ulica. Klasičan naš ručak nedeljom u roditeljskoj kući može sasvim slobodno da ima sarmu na meniju i saher tortu kao desert. I to kao sasvim prirodno spajanje dva različita sveta. Često se događa da i najveća rediteljska imena radeći na filmu imaju nekoliko verzija kraja. Sve do kraja snimanja dešava se da nije izvesno kako će se film završiti. Da li ste Vi imali tu dilemu? - Producenti su imali tu dilemu, pogotovo strani. Stalno su me nagovarali da film ima eksplicitno srećan kraj. Meni je to delovalo potpuno neiskreno i netačno. Ne bih se osećao dobro. To ne bi bio taj film i to ne bih bio ja. Opet, film se vrlo suptilno i otvoreno završava. Tako da ako verujete u ljubav, možda... DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

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Milica Jakovljević-Mirjam

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Miloš Crnjanski

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Ljubomir Micić

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Rastko Petrović

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Branko Ćopić

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Duško Radović

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L I T E R A R Y

G U I D E

T H R O U G H

B E L G R A D E

He who even barely stands on a hill sees more than he who is below the hill. Mountain Wreath, Petar Petrović Njegoš One of the wisest women born in this region, the first female academic, left us with a literary inheritance that includes some of the most beautiful pages ever written in the Serbian language and thoughts that belong to the highest spiritual domain.

Portait from 1911, in the Đonić studio

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

LIFE IN

A CIRCLE

OF CHALK under strict rules, in poverty and under great discipline. She wrote in her diary: “…I’ve explained my rules of life in other writings, many times. The rules include severe discipline; work, poverty, silence….” It is not easy to be happy if one is strict towards oneself and towards others, and what is more, to live with the knowledge that one has inherited two equally difficult illnesses; from her mother’s side, tuberculosis, and from her father’s side a proclivity towards mental illness. “I was not happy”, she said in a conversation before the end of her life. “I made peace with that fact, because there is a heavenly happiness that determines people.”

he small memorial room to Isidora Sekulić is located in a small basement room of the Svetozar Marković University Library, at Boulevard King Alexandar 70 in Belgrade. That they call this section the treasury, a place where valuable items are stored, is the only aspect of it that could be said to be commensurate with the significance of the person for whom this place serves as a remembrance to safeguard her memory from oblivion. Her work room, in a home in Vase Pelagića 70, her last address in Belgrade where she lived for some 16 years, did not look exactly like this, but here is her desk, above it a portrait of Bishop Rada, the poet Njegoš, with whose life and work she was occupied, two messing candlestick holders, a wall clock, a radio, ink stand and writing utensils, glasses, a typewriter, paintings on the walls, a number of leather chairs, one period chair, and many many books. The University Library presently has 2,580 books from her personal library. “Everything passes”, she wrote following a lecture by Professor of Archeology Vulić, “foremost man, and behind him there survives his smallest servant, a blue cup, a small plate, a little knife, a tiny snake of gold which he held as he prayed to the gods…After all those battles, after all those victories and defeats, all that will remain is a small pot with a thinly folded handle…” There in the commemoration room, in a brightly coloured cardboard box, four broaches have been saved, and in another—a shallow woodenbox – knick knacks gathered over the years: an old writing pen, unused postage stamps, a small key to a dresser drawers, rubber bands, erasers, paper clips, red wax colour, copper decoration. It was not easy to live on the mountain that she raised through her spiritual life and work, and to see more and farther than those who were destined to live at its foothills. Nor was it easy to live in the solitude of her monastery,

MISSES SIDA She was born in the Bačka village of Mošorina in 1877, in the home of a respected municipal bookkeeper, Danilo Sekulić, and her mother Ljubica. Her father was an erudite man, as well as ambitious, who taught his children’s Latin verses. “Let me ask you something”, she once said in an interview many years later, “How can you be intelligent and realistic if your father taught you Latin and Old Greek sayings in childhood, and then verses by those ancient grandiloquent Roman poets from antiquity?” Also from her father, she inherited her own peculiar brand of phobia, insisting on cleanliness and order. They moved to the town of Ruma, where first she would lose her 7-year-old brother, and then two years later her mother from “consumption”. Their father moved to Zemun with the children, where he received the reputable civil servant position of city captain. They lived in Tri Goluba Street (Three Pigeons), today known as Zmaj Jovina, near the church whose bells often filled their rooms with chimes, and where frankincense wafted through their environs. The grand Danube River was just a skip away. “Powerful, wide, it was never calm. Not even a vestige of Eastern winds, still the waves rolled in two rows, one against the other. The lower row, thick dark water, the upper row, pure energy…”: “For myself, in the first place I learn for myself, I grab knowledge and experience for myself, I learn for myself, I play and sing for myself, if the gods of happiness leave myself, and if it is difficult for myself among people, I can say: everything aside, I am enough unto myself.” With self-conscious attitude she tried to protect herself from every conceivable unhappiness and loneliness which life could bring her way.” UPBRINGING AS ART She left Pančevo and continued her pedagogical career as a Austro-Hungarian citizen in the Higher Women’s School in Šabac. She taught German and Gymnastics, and later, Mathematics. She published her first article “What are Gusle to Serbs?” as a student in 1897 in the Sombor school paper, but it was

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

L I T E R A R Y

G U I D E

T H R O U G H

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come first.” On one occasion, as recalled by her student Ružica BrankovićMagarašević, while speaking with her father, she said: “To be a teacher is a professional challenge, but to instruct students on behaviour is quite distinct. That is a form of art….” Years of work followed at the New School, which was renamed Second Women’s Gymnasium, a period that was interrupted by years of travel and illness. The instructor for drawing at the school was Nadežda Petrović, and later the young professor Zora Petrović, with whom she often socialised. When she was retired in January, 1931 by a Royal Act, she had accumulated some 34 years of service. It would be difficult to render judgment on her success as an instructor of behaviour, but she was certainly consistent in her aim to rear children through her personal point of view and to lead children by personal example.

Portrait of the author from 1932 not until 1910, during her second year in Šabac, that one might say she truly entered the literary and artistic life of Serbia. In that year she already intimated how broad her approach to art would be in the coming years and how wide were her fields of interests. Following three years of work in Šabac, by that time truly devoted to Serbian Letters, she was transferred to Belgrade, upon her own request, where she was given the position of teacher at the Higher Women’s School, where her subjects included German and Mathematics. In her new surroundings she had already become known for her numerous texts published in domestic and foreign publications in which she presented herself as a nationalist romantic, but also as a person who could clearly grasp the essence of Serbian national identity, foremost cultural and intellectual problems. Parallel to this, she followed both domestic and European literature, writing sharp critiques on published books. She was dissatisfied with the position of teacher, as she considered that the position as such was not afforded the proper respect of personality, and because teachers generally lived under extremely difficult material conditions. She wrote about the relationship between teaching and behaviour, or general discipline, and she believed that “In the first place, before questions related to lessons, the issue of good behaviour and discipline must

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

ORGAN MUSIC “When Huxley began to work, to ask questions, to remember, to think, to summarise, to model, to speak through many heads and mouths, it was the organ, that was counterpoint…” These words about the author of the novel Point Counterpoint by Aldus Huxley could without reserve relate to her as well. The only thing that can be compared to her versatility as an artist, the delicacy of her thoughts and the strength of her spirit is the majesty of the organ structure and the harmony of the music that the organ produces, touching as it sometimes does the heavenly heights. Isidora Sekulić loved music and she was musical. She played piano from childhood, and owned a piano all her life through World War Two, during which time she was forced to sell her instrument in order to feed herself. She often wrote articles about music, critiques, essays, and during one period she taught a music programme on the radio. Her literature and literary analysis are full of musical associations or metaphors. Music played a major role in her getting to know Emil Stemnicki, the Polish emigrant and physician, in the hotel where she stayed in Nice in 1912. She spoke about that to her friend Miodrag Pavlović: she played the piano, Bach’s music, when there appeared a handsome man. He was attracted to the music…he admitted that he was attracted to it. They met and spent time together during their stay in Nice, and after that they continued their correspondence. He asked for her hand in marriage in one of his letters; she wavered, but fearing that rejecting him could worsen the health of an already ill heart patient, she accepted his offer. In Kristijana, today’s Oslo, she became Mrs. Stremnicka. That marriage, unfortunately, ended quickly and unhappily, after only a few months, with the death of Emil Stremnicki, on the road between Kristijana and Berlin. The first edition of Letters from Norway, which she published with her publisher Svetislav B. Cvijanović 1914, Isidora signed with both surnames.

PEAKING INTO THE RIDDLE, INTO THE HEAVY ILLUSION OF TIME She discovered early on that books are a magical place that bring thoughts to life; as a child “in her circle of chalk”, in her corner in the Zemun yard, in Three Pigeons Street, she saw in them “the flash of polar lights, magical tropical plants with physiognomies of wild animals, the splash of the ocean waters through which slashed the galleys of Assyrian oar boats… she saw the frowning quiet of the frozen north and the horrible death in the sands that give no water, and there were flashing yellow eyes, like sharp swords, of royal tigers and she watched the eyes of Scandinavian hawks turn tender blue.” Her love for books did not leave her until her death despite an ocular illness that overcame her in her later years: “I am satisfied when I read and in the evening I am an atom heavier, for I know something more than I did in the morning.” She travelled often, insofar as her finances and time allowed. She understood travel to be a kind of school and she therefore prepared for each trip with great study and care. Afterwards, travelogues appeared from Norway, France, England and Italy, which may be counted among the most beautifully written accounts of travels written in the Serbian language. She possessed all the necessary preconditions for this genre of writing; she was broadly educated, she knew languages and cultures, and had an intelligent and trenchant spirit. ISIDORA IN BELGRADE Before she found her first job in Belgrade in 1912, Isidora used to come to the White City for meetings of the Serbian Literary Society. In her new surroundings she was already well known for numerous texts published in domestic and foreign publications. When in 1913 her short story “Bure” (Barrel) was published in the Zagreb magazine Savremenik, because of the highly refined sensibility of the story Matoš expressed doubt that Isidora Sekulić was not the true author of this work, but merely a pseudonym for a male writer. That same year, her book Saputnici (Fellow Travellers) was published, about which even the stern Skerlić had a few sentences of praise: “It is a book that is absolutely subjective, personal, and in content and tone a new appearance of the explosive female honesty in literature. In that she has the rare ability for introspection and moral autopsy…” From that moment forward, nothing in Serbian literature would be the same. She was well received in Belgrade intellectual circles, and she further contributed by organising gatherings of intellectual circles at her home on Thursdays, at five, for tea. She tried in vain to maintain the tradition of gatherings during the occupation, but it was only after Liberation that they once again took form at Topcider Hill. A new intellectual elite began to gather at her new home, including such luminaries as Eli Finci, Miodrag Pavlović, Miroslav Belović, and later Živorad Stojković, Aleksandar Vidaković and Vasko Popa. There is not a significant literary figure in Serbia who did not send his or her book to her so that she might pass judgment on it, as she had an uncanny ability to detect true literary quality and to recognise talent. And so, encouraging and greeting them, she helped many a writer from both the older and newer generations, including Miloš Crnjanski, about whom she said as far back as 1928 that in another 20 years or so he would be able to write an excellent Belgrade novel. He had a high opinion of Branko Ćopić and she considered him to be her discovery. When in 1945 Ivo Andrić’s novel The Bridge on the River Drina was published, she considered that the book would mark an era, and of course, she was not mistaken. She spoke French, English, Russian, German and Italian. She translated poetry, essays and novels, including: the Anthology of English Poetry, Emerson, Edgar Allan Poe, Oscar Wilde, Aldus Huxley, Goethe’s The Trials of Young Werther, Gotfried Keller, Grimm, Hjelen from the Norwegian language,

Monument room to Isidora Sekulić Dostoyevsky, Saltikov-Ščedrina . Following Liberation, she was elected the first president of the Association of Serbian Writers. She was socially engaged, from opening exhibitions to the Board for Erecting the Monument to Rakić and Njegoš. When in November 1950, as the first woman to be nominated and elected to serve on the permanent board of SANU (The Serbian Academy of Science and Art), her nominator Academic Kolendić noted that among the large nations of the West, one becomes an academic only through serving one’s nation by engagement in the social and cultural life of one’s country. Less than six months before her death, in a letter sent to Holland to Vladeta Jerotić, she wrote about Belgrade: “We are playing the role of a Big City here: concerts, painting and sculpture exhibitions, lots of newspapers with the same information, but there is nothing else…” Is it the summer heat that makes her shadow -- as if she were leaning on her walking stick, taking a rest from her constant strolling, gazing in the endless depths of Belgrade -- appear in the evenings above Topcider cemetery, her eternal resting place? Would Belgrade appear to her not as a game but as a real city and would she consider that the city has once again “attained full maturity and enlightenment?” First of all, have things changed in comparison to a half-century ago, when she bitterly concluded, while speaking to her poet friend Miodrag Pavlović: “My whole opus is but a fistful of sand thrown into the large chasm of our lack of culture.”? JOVO ANĐIĆ For their cooperation in preparing this text, we thank the Photo Collection Department at SANU, the University Library Svetozar Marković, Antiquities Department, City of Belgrade Library, Fund for Old and Rare Books, City of Belgrade Museum and the Isidora Sekulić Association.

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

K N J I Ž E V N I

V O D I Č

K R O Z

B E O G R A D

ŽIVOT U KRUGU

KREDOM

Ko na brdo ak` i malo stoji više vidi no onaj pod brdom. Gorski vijenac, Petar Petrović Njegoš Jedna od najmudrijih žena rođenih na ovim prostorima, prva žena akademik, ostavila nam je u nasleđe literaturu u kojoj su neke od najlepših stranica ispisane srpskim jezikom, misli koje predstavljaju najviši duhovni domet

maloj sobi u suterenu Univerzitetske biblioteke Svetozar Marković, na Bulevaru kralja Aleksandra 70 u Beogradu, smeštena je spomensoba Isidore Sekulić. To što ovo odeljenje nazivaju trezorom, mestom gde se čuvaju dragocenosti, jedino je što istinski odgovara značaju osobe koju i ovde od zaborava čuva uspomena. Njena radna soba kuće u Vase Pelagića 70, poslednjoj beogradskoj adresi, gde je živela šesnaest godina, nije izgledala sasvim tako. Ali tu su i sekreter, iznad njega portret vladike Rada, pesnika Njegoša, čijim životom i delom je bila okupirana, dva mesingana svećnjaka, zidni sat, radio-aparat, mastionica i pribor za pisanje, naočare, pisaća mašina, slike na zidovima, nekoliko kožnih,

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

jedna stilska fotelja i mnoštvo knjiga. Danas se u Univerzitetskoj biblioteci čuva 2.580 knjiga iz njene biblioteke. „Sve prolazi”, napisala je nakon predavanja arheologa profesora Vulića, „čovek najpre, a iza njega ostaje da preživi neki najmanji sluga njegov, plava šolja, tanjirić, nožić, zmijica od zlata koju je držao kad se bogovima molio... Posle svih tih bojeva, posle svih tih pobeda i slomova, ostaće čančić s tankom izvijenom drškom...” Tu u spomen-sobi, u šarenoj kartonskoj kutiji sačuvana su četiri broša, a u drugoj, plitkoj drvenoj kutiji godinama sakupljane sitnice: stara pera za pisanje, neiskorišćene poštanske marke, ključić od ormana, gumice za tegle i za brisanje, spajalice, crvena voštana boja, bakarni ukras…

Nije bilo lako živeti na gori koju je svojim duhovnim životom i delom izdigla, i videti više i dalje nego oni osuđeni na život ispod te gore. I nije bilo lako živeti u samoći sopstvenog manastira, po strogim pravilima, siromašno i disciplinovano. Zapisala je u svom dnevniku: „…a kazala sam svoja pravila života i drugde, dosta puta. U tim pravilima ima surova disciplina; rad, siromaštvo, ćutanje...” Nije lako biti srećan ako smo strogi i prema sebi i prema drugima, a uz to živimo sa svešću da smo nasledili dve jednako teške bolesti, sa majčine strane tuberkulozu, a sa očeve sklonost duševnoj poremećenosti. „Nisam bila srećna”, rekla je u jednom razgovoru pred kraj života, „s tim sam se pomirila, postoji vasionska sreća koja opredeljuje ljude...” GOSPOĐICA SIDA odila se u bačkom selu Mošorinu 1877. godine, u Sekulić with a friend kući uvaženog opštinskog beležnika Danila Sekulića i majke Ljubice. Otac je bio veoma učen, uz to ambiciozan, pa ju je podučavao latinskim dečjim stihovima. „Pitam ja vas”, rekla je u jednom intervjuu kasnije, „kako neko može biti pametan i realan kada ga je otac odmalena učio poslovicama na latinskom i starogrčkom, a onda stihovima rimskih, tih drevnih, sjajnih pesnika...” Od oca je nasledila i svojevrsnu maniju čistoće i urednosti. U Rumi, gde su se preselili, umire joj najpre sedmogodišnji brat, a dve godine kasnije i majka, od „suhe bolesti”. Otac se sa decom seli u Zemun, gde je dobio uglednu službu gradskog kapetana.. Živeli su u Ulici tri goluba, današnjoj Zmaj Jovinoj, nadomak crkve čija su zvona svojim odjekom često ispunjavala sobe, a i tamjan je znao iznenada da zamiriše. Na korak je bio i Dunav. „Moćan, širok, nikada nije bio miran. Ni traga od istočnih vetrova, svejedno valja talase u dva reda, jedne na drugima. Donji red, gusta tamna voda, gornji red, sama energija...” Nakon završene treće godine realke u Zemunu, Isidora Sekulićeva nastavlja školovanje na Višoj ženskoj školi u Novom Sadu, a potom u Srpskoj učiteljskoj školi u Somboru, popularnoj Preparandiji. Gospođica Sida, kako su je zvale školske drugarice, svoje školovanje kruniše u Pešti, gde stiče diplomu Kraljevske ugarske državne ženske preparandije za građanske škole. Dobivši diplomu stekla je uslov za predavača predmeta prirodno-matematičkog smera u narodnim i građanskim školama. Decenije pedagoško-vaspitnog rada, koje će uslediti, započinje najpre u Pančevu, gde je već sa dvadeset godina postala predavač više predmeta, najpre zoologije, botanike, fizike, hemije, matematike, gimnastike, a potom još i geografije i minerologije. Posle samo četiri godine postavljena je, kao prva žena, za upravitelja škole. U međuvremenu u Zemunu joj umire otac, a samo nekoliko meseci kasnije i brat. U ispovednom tonu, u izveštaju Srpske više devojačke škole iz Pančeva, 1904. godine piše: ,,... Za sebe, u prvom redu za sebe učim, za sebe grabim poznavanje i iskustvo, za sebe učim, za sebe sviram i pevam – ako me bogovi sreće napuste, ako mi je među ljudima i teško, da mogu reći: sve na stranu, ja

sam sebi dovoljna..” Ovakvim samosvesnim stavom pokušala je da se zaštiti od svake moguće nesreće i usamljenosti koju bi joj mogao doneti život. VASPITAVANJE KAO UMETNOST Napušta Pančevo i svoju pedagošku službu nastavlja kao državljanka Austrougarske u Višoj devojačkoj školi u Šapcu. Predaje nemački i gimnastiku, a kasnije i matematiku. Svoj prvi tekst Šta su Srbinu gusle objavila je još kao učenica 1897. godine. u somborskom školskom listu, ali se tek 1910, druga godina boravka u Šapcu, može označiti godinom njenog pravog ulaska u književni i umetnički život Srbije. Tada je najavila kako će svestran biti njen pristup umetnosti i koliko je široko polje njenih interesovanja. Nakon trogodišnjeg rada u Šapcu, sada već kao srpski podanik, biva, na sopstveni zahtev, premeštena u Beograd, gde je postavljena za nastavnika Više ženske škole, predavala je nemački i matematiku. U novoj sredini već je poznata po brojnim tekstovima objavljivanim po domaćim i stranim listovima kojima se predstavila kao nacionalni romantičar, ali i kao osoba koja ume jasno da sagleda suštinu naših nacionalnih, najpre kulturnih i intelektualnih problema. Paralelno, ona prati našu i evropsku literaturu pišući oštre prikaze objavljenih knjiga. Nije zadovoljna položajem nastavnika, smatrajući da on nije tretiran kao ličnost, a da ga još više ponižava bedan materijalni položaj. Piše o pitanju odnosa nastave i vaspitanja, smatrajući da „na prvo mesto, ispred pitanja o nastavi, treba staviti pitanje o vaspitanju”. Jednom prilikom, sećala se njena učenica Ružica Branković-Magarašević, u razgovoru sa njenim ocem, rekla je: „Biti nastavnik to je uvek izazov stručnosti, a biti vaspitač je nešto posebno. To je vrsta umetnosti...“ Slede godine rada u novoj školi, koja dobija naziv Druga ženska gimnazija, isprekidane odsustvima zbog putovanja i bolovanja. U školi crtanje predaje poznata slikarka Nadežda Petrović, a potom i mlada profesorka Zora Petrović, s kojom se najviše druži. Kada je u januaru 1931. penzionisana kraljevskim

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

K N J I Ž E V N I

V O D I Č

K R O Z

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nastavili dopisivanje. Zaprosio ju je u jednom od pisama; ona se kolebala, ali plašeći se da bi odbijanje moglo da pogorša zdravstveno stanje ionako teškom srčanom bolesniku, prihvatila je prosidbu. U Kristijaniji, današnjem Oslu, postala je gospođa Stremnicka. Taj se brak, nažalost, brzo i nesrećno okončao, posle nekoliko meseci, smrću Emila Stremnickog, na putu između Kristijanije i Berlina. Prvo izdanje Pisama iz Norveške, koje je objavila kod svog izdavača Svetislava B. Cvijanovića 1914. godine, Isidora je potpisala sa oba prezimena. ZAVIRIVANJA U ZAGONETKU, U TEŠKU ILUZIJU VREMENA Da su knjige magična mesta u kojima oživljavaju svetovi, otkrila je vrlo rano, kada je kao još sasvim mala u „svom krugu kredom“ u svom budžaku, u zemunskom dvorištu, u Ulici tri goluba, u njima videla „... kako bukti polarna svetlost, tamo je bilo onih čudnih tropskih biljaka sa fiziognomijama divljih životinja, šuštalo je more i vozile su po njemu grdne galije asirskih veslača... tamo je bilo namršteno ćutanje zaleđenog severa i strašna smrt u pesku koji ne da vode, tamo su, kao oštre sablje, sevale žute oči kraljevskih tigrova i umiljato se plavile dobre oči skandinavskih belih sokolova...” Ljubav prema knjigama nije je napuštala do smrti uprkos bolesti očiju koja se poslednjih godina izuzetno pojačala: „Ja sam, zadovoljna kad čitam i kada sam uveče za atom teža, više naučila nego ujutru...” Putovala je često, koliko su joj to finansijske prilike i vreme dozvoljavali. Shvatajući putovanja kao svojevrsnu školu, ona se za njih studiozno pripremala. Nakon toga nastajali su putopisi iz Norveške, Francuske, Engleske, Italije, koji se mogu svrstati među najlepše putopisne strane ispisane na našem jeziku. Za tako nešto posedovala je sve neophodne preduslove, bila je široko obrazovana, poznavala je jezike i kulturu i bila inteligentna i pronicljivog duha.

Isidora Sekulić, portait from 1911 ukazom, imala je nešto više od 34 godine službe. Teško se može prosuditi da li je bila uspešna u vaspitavanju, ali je nesumnjivo bila dosledna u tome da vaspitava svojim ličnim stavom i daje primer svojim načinom života. MUZIKA ORGULJA „Kada Haksli počne da radi, da se pita, da se seća, da misli, da sažima, da modeluje, da progovara kroz mnoge glave i usta, to su orgulje, to je kontrapunkt...“ Ove bi se reči o autoru romana Punkt kontrapunkt Oldosu Haksliju mogle bez rezerve odnositi na nju samu. Jedino s čim bi se raznorodnost njenog stvaralaštva, tananost misli i snaga duha mogli uporediti jeste veličanstvenost ustrojstva orgulja i sklad muzike koju stvaraju, koja povremeno gotovo doseže božanske visine. Isidora Sekulić je volela muziku i bila muzikalna. Klavir je svirala još od mladosti, imala ga je sve do Drugog svetskog rata, kada je bila prinuđena da ga proda kako bi se prehranila. Često je pisala tekstove o muzici, prikaze, članke i eseje, a jedno vreme je na radiju bila i predavač iz oblasti muzike. I u njenoj se literaturi i književnim analizama često mogu sresti muzičke asocijacije ili metafore. Muzika je odigrala bitnu ulogu i u njenom upoznavanju sa Emilom Stremnickim, poljskim emigrantom, lekarom, u depandansu hotela gde je odsela u Nici 1912. godine. Pričala je o tome prijatelju Miodragu Pavloviću: svirala je klavir, Bahovu muziku, kada se pojavio lep, stasit gospodin. Privukla ga je muzika, priznao je i da je uživao u njoj. Upoznali su se i družili tokom boravka u Nici, a nakon toga

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

ISIDORA U BEOGRADU I pre nego što je 1912. dobila posao u Beogradu, Isidora je u beli grad dolazila na sastanke Društva srpskih književnika. U novoj sredini već je poznata po brojnim tekstovima objavljivanim po domaćim i stranim listovima. Kada se 1913. pojavila njena pripovetka Bure u zagrebačkom časopisu Savremenik, Matoš, zbog rafinirane osećajnosti, izražava sumnju da je Isidora Sekulić samo pseudonim iza kojeg se krije muškarac. Iste godine se pojavljuje njena knjiga Saputnici, za koju čak strogi Skerlić ima i nekoliko rečenica pohvale: „To je knjiga skroz subjektivna, lična, sadržinom i tonom, jedna nova pojava one eksplozivne ženske iskrenosti u književnosti. U tome ima retke sposobnosti za introspekciju i moralnu autopsiju...” Od tog trenutka više ništa u srpskoj književnosti neće biti isto. Dobro je primljena u beogradskim intelektualnim krugovima, a svoj doprinos daje i time što organizuje okupljanje intelektualnog kruga u svom domu četvrtkom u pet na čaju. Tradiciju tih okupljanja bezuspešno je pokušala da očuva tokom okupacije, ali je tek nakon oslobođenja ona ponovo oživela na Topčiderskom brdu. Tamo se tada, u njenom novom domu, okupljala nova intelektualna elita, koju su činili Eli Finci, Miodrag Pavlović, Miroslav Belović, a kasnije i Živorad Stojković, Aleksandar Vidaković i Vasko Popa.

Gotovo da nema našeg značajnijeg književnika koji joj nije poslao svoju knjigu da je pročita i da svoj sud o njoj, jer imala je izuzetnu sposobnost da proceni pravu vrednost dela, da prepozna i otkrije talenat. Tako je, hrabreći ih i podržavajući, pomogla mnogim piscima mlađe i starije generacije, između ostalih Milošu Crnjanskom, za kojeg je još 1928. godine rekla da bi za 20 godina mogao da napiše dobar beogradski roman. Cenila je mladog Branka Ćopića i smatrala ga svojim otkrićem. Kada se 1945. godine pojavio roman Ive Andrića Na Drini ćuprija, procenila je da će to biti knjiga koja će obeležiti epohu i, naravno, nije pogrešila. Govorila je francuski, engleski, ruski, nemački i italijanski jezik. Prevodila je poeziju, eseje, romane: Antologiju engleske poezije, Emersona, Edgara Alana Poa, Oskara Vajlda, Oldosa Hakslija, Geteovo Stradanja mladoga Vertera, Gotfrida Kelera, Grima, Hjelana sa norveškog jezika, Dostojevskog, SaltikovŠčedrina ... Nakon oslobođenja izabrana je za prvog predsednika Udruženja književnika Srbije. Bila je društveno angažovana, od otvaranja izložbi do odbora za postavljanje spomenika Rakiću i Njegošu. Kada je u novembru 1950, kao prva žena predložena i izabrana za stalnog člana SANU, predlagač akademik Kolendić istakao je da se samo zbog takvog angažmana u kulturnom i društvenom životu kojim je služila svom narodu, u velikim narodima na Zapadu postaje akademik. Nepuno pola godine pred smrt, u pismu upućenom u Holandiju Vladeti Jerotiću, o Beogradu piše: „Igramo se ovde velikog grada: koncerti, izložbe slika i skulptura, puno novina i u njima sve jedno isto, jer drugo i drugačije nema...” Da li nam se zbog letnje vreline njena sen pričinjava u predvečerje iznad Topčiderskog groblja, na kojem joj je večni dom, kako oslonjena na štap pravi predah u stalnom pešačenju, zagledana u beskraj Beograda? Da li bi joj on danas ličio na pravi grad, a ne na igru, i da li bi procenila da je grad ponovo

„...dostigao punu zrelost i svetlost”? A ponajpre, da li su se stvari promenile u odnosu na vreme od pre pola veka, kada je, gorko zaključujući, rekla prijatelju, pesniku Miodragu Pavloviću: „Čitavo moje delo je šaka šodera bačena u velike rupe naše nekulture.” JOVO ANĐIĆ Zahvaljujemo se na saradnji pri pripremanju teksta Fototeci SANU, Univerzitetskoj biblioteci Svetozar Marković - Odeljenje retkosti, Biblioteci grada Beograda - Fond starih i retkih knjiga, Muzeju grada Beograda kao i Udruženju Isidora Sekulić

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

GUEST OF BELGRADE | SVEN BICHLER, REPRESENTATIVE OF “BENETTON” FOR SOUTHEAST EUROPE

BELGRADE OF MY YOUTH I am always overwhelmed with emotions when I come to Belgrade. I remember the lovely moments from my childhood. Strong emotions and remembrance of childhood pictures warm us throughout life. I will never forget the smell of lime-trees in Belgrade and that cosmopolitan spirit which gives me hope that it really has to be much better here.

“B

enetton was a challenge that I was offered in 1990. I became a member of the team that has been leading the company in this part of Southeastern Europe. The company was established as the vision of one person – Luciano Benetton. He was the pioneer of something that had been developing in this part of Europe”, says Sven Bichler, the leading man of Benetton for Southeastern Europe today and a

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

very successful manager. When he was almost 16 years old he went to Italy to study. Regardless of his artistic story related to the “Dadov” Theatre, music, literature and especially to his friendship with a famous writer Mika Oklopčić, Sven Bichler was beguiled by a magic name – United Colors of Benetton. “When Lucian Benetton chose the name United along with Colors for his company, which is our city’s synonym, I immediately realised that

it was the right thing,” Sven Bichler recalls in an exclusive interview with BelGuest. Why did you leave Belgrade so young? “I went to study abroad. My parents remained to live for some more time in Belgrade, and I came often, whenever my academic commitments allowed. That’s the story that relates me to this city. I am always overwhelmed with emotions when I come to Belgrade, I remember the lovely

moments from my childhood. In my opinion, a man always returns to the place where he was born and where he grew up. Strong emotions and remembrance of childhood pictures warm us throughout life. I will never forget the smell of lime-trees in Belgrade and that cosmopolitan spirit which gives me hope that it really has to be much better here. I always meet old friends here, including Petar Cvijić a former journalist.” You saved emotional continuity with your friends in Belgrade. Your name is related to “Dadov”, Mika Oklop. “That was a magical time. Youth was trying to break out of local frameworks in any way because they wanted to be equal to girls and boys from other parts of the world. That was the time of The Beatles, Rolling Stones, Animals. That was the time of Brecht, poetry, theatre. Although we were very young, we also participated in all that. In that way “Dadov” and “Euridika” were established. Mika Oklop and I were sitting together in school. We had a band called “Junior”. We played football. We were sitting at inns and talking about art and America, where he later went. At the same time I went to study in Italy. We tried to stay in contact all the time. That generation is also the generation of Branko Cvejić, Svetlana Bojković, Predrag Ejdus, Goran Sultanović, Aljoša Vučković. If I missed some of my great friends, I hope they will forgive me. Theatre and music were intermingled in all of us. Everything was being created around young people and we were all following in the steps of Jovan Ristić, our famous director. He also attended the 14th Grammar School.” What does Belgrade look like today? Do you feel that energy you are talking about and how do you experience it today? “Those times were completely different. Belgrade has 2.5 million people today and it used to have a half million. You cannot compare that Belgrade with Belgrade today. But I can feel that Belgrade is returning to what it used to be. The Belgrade of my youth was not a cosmopolitan city, but we wanted to find out everything happening in the world and around us. There was no television at all or it was just at the beginning of its development. Nowadays young people can find out everything via internet or television today. Thus, almost nothing is interesting to them. We had to discover and search for everything by ourselves. Those two periods cannot be compared. In my opinion, our time was more interesting and positive for youth.”

What did you keep from the richness of colours of Belgrade and Trieste? “Belgrade is great, especially in autumn when leaves fall to the ground. I am impressed by autumn colours, and colours are of major importance for Benetton. That is the reason why our company’s name is United Colors of Benetton. We started with black, white and blue and you can see what we are doing now. My personality is more artistic than rational, economic. So, in my case, theatre, music and Benetton are all the same.” How is this brand accepted in Serbia? “Remarkably. We are very satisfied. Our plan is

to expand our activities and presence not only in Belgrade, but in other parts of Serbia as well. Every city with more than fifty thousand people is interesting for us.” Your whole life is related to art. After all, has the practical Sven won out over the artistic one? “They go hand in hand. And that is the only right solution.” LJILJANA LUČIĆ photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

GOST BEOGRADA | SVEN BICHLER, PREDSTAVNIK “BENETTONA” ZA JUGOISTOISTOČNU EVROPU

BEOGRAD MOJE MLADOSTI Uvek kad dolazim u Beograd preplave me emocije, setim se divnih trenutaka iz detinjstva. Mislim da se čovek uvek vraća na mesto gde je rođen i gde je odrastao. Jake emocije i sećanje na slike iz detinjstva greju nas čitav život. Nikada neću zaboraviti miris lipa u Beogradu i taj kosmopolitski duh koji mi daje nadu da ovde zaista mora biti mnogo bolje.

enetton je izazov koji mi je ponuđen l990. godine. Postao sam deo tima koji je vodio kompaniju u ovom delu jugoistočne Evrope. Kompanija je nastala vizijom jednog čoveka – Lučana Benettona. On je bio pionir nečega što se tek stvaralo u ovom delu Evrope – kaže Sven Bichler, danas prvi čovek Benettona za jugoistočnu Evropu i veoma uspešan menadžer. Sa nepunih šesnaest godina otišao je u Italiju na školovanje. Bez obzira na njegovu umetničku priču koja je bila vezana za pozorište Dadov, muziku, književnost, posebno za njegovo druženje sa poznatim književnikom Mikom Oklopčićem, Svena Bichlera zavelo je jedno magično ime – ujedinjeni svet boja – United Colors of Benetton. „Kada je Lučano Benetton izabrao ime kompanije United uz Colors, koji je sinonim našeg rada, odmah sam shvatio da je to prava stvar” – priseća se Sven Bichler u ekskluzivnom razgovoru za BelGuest. Zašto ste tako mladi otišli iz Beograda? - Otišao sam na studije u inostranstvo. Moji roditelji su ostali da žive još neko vreme u Beogradu, a ja sam često dolazio, kad god su mi to obaveze oko završavanja studija dozvoljavale. To je priča koja me veže za ovaj grad. Uvek kad dolazim u Beograd preplave me emocije, setim se divnih trenutaka iz detinjstva. Mislim da se čovek uvek vraća na mesto gde je rođen i gde je odrastao. Jake emocije i sećanje na slike iz detinjstva greju nas čitav život. Nikada neću zaboraviti miris lipa u Beogradu i taj kosmopolitski duh koji mi daje nadu da ovde zaista mora biti mnogo bolje. Ovde se svaki put susrećem sa starim prijateljima. Među njima je i Petar Cvijić, nekadašnji novinar.

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Sačuvali ste emotivni kontinuitet sa prijateljima u Beogradu. Vaše ime je vezano za Dadov, za Miku Oklopa. - Bilo je to čarobno vreme, mladi ljudi su pokušavali na svaki način da izađu iz lokalnih okvira, hteli su da budu jednaki sa momcima i devojkama iz ostalih delova sveta. To je vreme Bitlsa, Rolingstonsa, Animalsa. To je vreme Brehta, poezije, pozorišta. I mi, iako veoma mladi, učestvovali smo u svemu tome. Tako su nastali Dadov i Euridika. Mika Oklop i ja smo sedeli zajedno u klupi. Imali smo orkestar, koji se zvao Junior. Igrali smo fudbal. Sedeli smo u kafanama, pričali o umetnosti, o Americi – gde je on kasnije i otišao. U isto vreme ja sam krenuo na studije u Italiju. Nastojali smo da uvek budemo u kontaktu. Iz te generacije potiču i Branko Cvejić, Svetlana Bojković, Predrag Ejdus, Goran Sultanović, Aljoša Vučković. Ako sam nekog od mojih divnih prijatelja izostavio, neka mi oproste. Pozorište i muzika u nama tada su bili povezani. Sve se stvaralo oko mladih ljudi i svi smo kao klinci nekako išli za Jovanom Ristićem, našim poznatim režiserom. I on je bio iz Četrnaeste gimnazije. . Kako Vam danas izgleda Beograd? Da li prepoznajete njegovu dobru energiju o kojoj govorite i kako je danas doživljavate? - To su sasvim druga vremena. Beograd danas ima 2,5 miliona stanovnika, a tada je imao petsto hiljada. Ne može se tražiti onaj Beograd u današnjem Beogradu. Mada mogu da osetim kako se Beograd vraća onome što je nekada bio. Beograd moje mladosti nije bio kosmopolitski, ali smo mi želeli da saznamo sve što se događa u svetu i oko nas. Govorim o

vremenu u kome nije bilo televizije ili je televizija bila u začetku. Danas se mladim ljudima sve servira preko televizije i Interneta. Čini se da im je zato malo šta zanimljivo. Mi smo morali sve sami da istražujemo i otkrivamo. To su dva vremena u životu grada, koja se ne mogu upoređivati. Mislim da je ono naše vreme bilo zanimljivije i pozitivnije za mladost. Šta ste zadržali od bogatstva boja iz Beograda i Trsta ? - Beograd je divan, naročito u jesen kada lišće opada. Zadivljuje ta lepeza boja jeseni, a najvažnija stvar za Benetton su boje. Zato je ime naše kompanije United Colors of Benetton. Počeli smo od crne, bele i plave, a sami ste se uverili dokle smo stigli. U meni je taj umetnički deo mnogo veći nego onaj racionalni, ekonomski. Tako da su u mom slučaju pozorište, muzika i Benetton deo jedne celine. Kako je taj veliki brend prošao u Srbiji? - Izvanredno. Veoma smo zadovoljni. Naš plan je da u narednih četiri-pet godina proširimo delatnost i prisustvo ne samo u Beogradu već i u drugim gradovima Srbije. Za nas je zanimljiv svaki grad sa više od pedeset hiljada stanovnika. Čitav život ste u umetnosti i oko umetnosti. Posle svega, da li je praktični deo Svena pobedio onaj umetnički ? - Oni idu ruku podruku. I to je jedino pravo rešenje. LJILJANA LUČIĆ fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

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THE DANUBE – THE RIVER OF DESTINY The photo-monograph “Serbia – the Danube River Basin” by Dragoljub Zamurović is a small part of the nation’s debt to the enormous and fateful river that is deeply intertwined with the history of Serbia and the Serbs. Dr Slobodan St. Milosavljević The exhibition of Dragoljub Zamurović’s photographs, presented in larger format, will be on display along the Sava Promenade at Kalemegdan Fortress throughout November. Forty five photographs, most of which were shot from a hotair balloon over a one-year period, depict the natural wonders of the Danube River and Serbia. Entrance is free of charge, the exhibition is open 24/7. www.srbija-foto.com

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DUNAV – REKA SUDBINE Fotomonografija „Srbija – dunavski sliv” Dragoljuba Zamurovića samo je deo duga čitavog jednog naroda velikoj i sudbinskoj reci koja je najdublje utkana u istoriju Srbije i Srba. Dr Slobodan St. Milosavljević Izlozba fotografija Dragoljuba Zamurovića na Savskom šetalištu na Kalemegdanu biće otvorena i u novembru. Četrdeset i pet fotografija, uglavnom snimljenih sa visine, iz balona, izloženo je na velikim formatima koji dočaravaju prirodne lepote Dunava i Srbije. Ulaz je besplatan, a izložba je otvorena 24 sata i osvetljena noću. www.srbija-foto.com

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

TOS RECOMMENDS – HOMELAND GALLERIES | THE ART GALLERY MILENA PAVLOVIĆ - BARILI IN POŽAREVAC

TO DREAM

IS SO HUMAN It is sufficient to say that Milena painted her dream, which is so violent. Is it reachable? Can it be comprehended with the logic of this world? Milena painted her dream-like world on canvass. She materialised the pieces. Is it worth searching for the inside connection and assembling the whole that might not exist at all? Should movement of the hand that touched the unreal be classified into some existing direction? Is it possible to name the expression of such particularity in order to understand her art? A dream can be very violent, and at the same time so human.

green muslin dress rustled in the space. The house where Milena was born has been converted into her gallery. On the walls, we can see paintings, mirrors of herself. We recognise canvass, colour and a face that is stylized, or called a self-portrait, but for her it was a reflection of her own dream. It represents an invisible door through which we pass from the beyond and return with a look we will unwillingly feel if not understand. If we do not pay attention to the form and indulge in the freedom of the game, we will be able to hear, just for a moment, the sound of green muslin she adored; we will be able to feel her scent and colour in the space she filled with her art and her dreams. The poetics of Milena’s artistic expression shows her works of art, oil paintings, pastels, tempera paintings and drawings put in frames and offered to the public to meet them. Her preserved artifacts – old photographs and verses – complete the whole story, cruel and unreal, like a dream. It is a dream without a happy ending, but one that keeps on living.

Milena Pavlović Barili, Paris 1932.

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DESTINY OR CHOICE Milena Pavlovic- Barilli was born on November 5, 1909 in Pozarevac. She inherited an interesting and complex combination of genes. Her mother Danica Pavlovic, from the old family of direct descendants of the oldest Karadjordje daughter Sava, and her father Bruno -- a descendent of the Goldoni family, a composer, a music critic and a poet -- sealed her life with unrest and non-consent from birth. That was why she wandered later from one world to another, not finding herself in any one, but recognising all these worlds inside of her. As a child, she travelled a lot with her parents, from Rome via Nice, to Bergamo, where she started her education. She finished primary school in Pozarevac, and high school partly in Rome, and in 1922, she enrolled in the Royal School of Arts in Belgrade from which she graduated in 1926. Soon after, she left for Munich with her mother in order to study fine arts at the Academy there. Two years later, she returned to her native country, having an exhibition in the Art Pavilion in Belgrade. She organised her first solo exhibition in the Journalists’ Home. Within several years, her paintings were being exhibited all around Europe. She travelled to Spain, Italy, and England, returning to her native country from time to time, but she could not find a post even as a drawing teacher in Tetovo, a small town in Macedonia. In the

Coverpage of Town&Country magazine, May 1941 beginning of the 1930s, she settled in Paris, where she lived with some interruptions until 1939, when she left for New York. The old continent had already been conquered. Gradually, painting by painting, Milena forced the great persons of French culture, such as Paul Valerie or Andre Breton, to think and write about her work. Andre Lot wrote: “Her modernism is completely personal”. Gianni Cavazzini discovered that “the cosmopolitan modernism that indicates the power of her temperament, the profoundness of her knowledge and sensibility” prevails in her work. Her motifs unite the worlds of ancient Egypt, old Greece and modern Paris. The year 1932 marked the beginning of Milena’s daydream period and metaphysical painting; Venus with Lamp, from 1935, marked a completely determined expression, “the beginning of a new cycle in which surrealistic and imaginary motifs were interweaving”. Stamped with her non-consent, she continued her search. She thought there had to be a deeper step leading to the inside of her. Questioning herself, she created the verse “My hands burn my face and hair like a flame. When will my pains cease? Everything is vacant; the air is full of ash. My last look fades away in the tranquility of the sky that reflects the waters of all seas.”

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The Art Gallery Milena Pavlovic –Barilli was opened for the public on June 24, 1962 in the reconstructed old family house of the Pavlovic family. It contains 893 her works of art, as well as a collection of drawings for children, her personal belongings, furniture and the library. The gallery is a particular informativedocumentary center that keeps rich archive, documentary, bibliography, publicist, photo, film and video material, not only about Milena’s work of art but as well as her life and the work of her parents and many prominent members of the Pavlovic family from Pozarevac and the Barilli family from Italy. The previous work of the Gallery was marked with the different program activities and interesting, well-organized artistic manifestations, among which stands out as a special project the international biennale “In the Light of Milena” GALERIJA MILENE PAVLOVIĆ BARILI, FONDACIJA MILENIN DOM , Voje Dulića 14, 12000 POŽAREVAC, tel. +381 12 224 173

Pslams 18, 1942 SEALED WITH NON-CONSENT He kept on wandering. In the new world across the ocean, Milena painted The Melancholy and The Silence. Her expression is tougher, alienated. Melody and poetics gave place to toughness of form. According to Miodrag Protic, who knows her work best, we realise “the world before categories” she took with her from her homeland. “She would remember the romantic charm of the country cinemas, neglected village cemeteries, lightning and rain, and she would write from abroad that sunsets were not as beautiful anywhere as in the garden of her house in Pozarevac”. Along with improvement in her artistic skill, Milena dealt with drawing. As an illustrator for Vogue magazine, she offered to the American fashion world simplicity of line, cultivated taste and recognisable style. In 1943, she married English aristocrat Robert Thomas Astor Goslen. A year later, she was drawing sketches for the first operas of Gian Carlo Menotti – Sebastian. Having survived a fall from a horse and serious spinal injury, she died on March 6, 1945 at the age of 36. All relevant American magazines published the news of her death. Two years later Bruno Barilli wrote to her mother in Pozarevac: “Milena was happy; she even danced with Goslen in the restaurant of the hotel Plaza. They went to bed and her heart stopped beating.” Her wandering stopped, too. Time vanished and eternity began. The AmericanBritish Art Centre organised her exhibition in 1948, while 1955 her commemorative exhibition was not organised in Belgrade until 1955. “When we are awake, we all share the same world, while when we are asleep, we have our own dreams”, Aristotle wrote, which apply to her individuality. Anyway, it is enough to say that she painted her own dream – a wild one. As far as we can preserve that divine privilege, that special link between worlds, as long as we keep on dreaming, we can sense her paintings. Will we be able to understand them? Understanding is certainly a category of consciousness, and Milena lived her dream. She wrapped it gently into a canvass and colour and left it as a legacy for time and daydreamers. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

TOS PREPORUČUJE – ZAVIČAJNE GALERIJE | GALERIJA MILENE PAVLOVIĆ-BARILI U POŽAREVCU

SAN JE TAKO

LJUDSKI

Milena Pavlović Barili, New York, January 1943.

ašuštala je zelena muslinska haljina u prostoru. Milenina rodna kuća je danas njena galerija. Na zidovima: za nas slike, za nju ogledala. Za nas platno i boja i lice koje, stilizovano ili nazvano autoportret, prepoznajemo kao njeno, za nju odblesak sopstvenog sna. Nevidljiva vrata kroz koja uvek može da prođe sa one strane i da nam se vrati pogledom koji ćemo, hteli mi to ili ne, razumeli ili ne, jednostavno osetiti. Ako se oslobodimo otčitavanja forme i dopustimo sebi slobodu igre, moći ćemo bar na trenutak da čujemo melodiju zelenog muslina koji je toliko volela, moći ćemo da je osetimo mirisom i bojom u prostoru koji je ispunila sobom i svojim snovima. Poetiku Mileninog umetničkog izraza oslikavaju njena dela, ulja, tempere, pasteli, crteži razapeti u ramove i ponuđeni publici da ih sretne. Sačuvani predmeti koji su joj pripadali, stare fotografije, njeni stihovi – tu su da bi upotpunili priču. A priča surova kao život i nestvarna kao san. Jedna od onih u kojima život nema srećan kraj, ali san ostaje da živi. SUDBINA ILI IZBOR Milena Pavlović-Barili rođena je 5. novembra 1909. godine u Požarevcu. Podarena joj je za život zanimljiva i teška kombinacija gena. Majka Danica Pavlović, iz stare srpske porodice direk-tnih potomaka najstarije Karađorđeve kćeri Save, i otac Bruno Barili, potomak Goldonija, kompozitor, muzički kritičar i pesnik, kao da su joj već samim činom rođenja utisnuli pečat nepristajanja i nemira, zbog kojih će kasnije lutati od jednog do drugog sveta, ne nalazeći sebe ni u jednom od njih, ali prepoznajući sve te svetove u sebi.

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Dovoljno je reći da je Milena slikala svoj san – a san je tako divlji. Da li je uhvatljiv? Da li se može pojasniti logikom ovozemaljskog? Milena je prenela svetove svog sna na platno. Materijalizovala je delove. Vredi li tražiti unutrašnju vezu i sklapati celinu koje možda i nema? Treba li svrstati pokret ruke koja je dotakla onostranost u ovaj ili onaj ovovremeni pravac? Tražiti ime izrazu takve posebnosti da bi se razrešilo pitanje čitanja njene umetnosti? San je tako divlji... I tako ljudski. Još u detinjstvu mnogo putuje sa svojim roditeljima, od Rima, preko Nice, do Bergama, gde i počinje njeno školovanje. Osnovnu školu ipak završava u Požarevcu, gimnaziju delom u Rimu, a 1922. godine upisuje se u Kraljevsku umetničku školu u Beogradu, na kojoj će diplomirati 1926. godine. Ubrzo s majkom odlazi u Minhen da bi na tamošnjoj Akademiji studirala slikarstvo. Nakon dve godine vraća se u zemlju, gde izlaže u Umetničkom paviljonu u Beogradu, a prvu samostalnu izložbu prirediće u Novinarskom domu. Za neko-

INFO:

Galerija Milene Pavlović-Barili otvorena je za javnost 24. juna 1962. godine pod krovom preuređene stare porodične kuće Pavlovića. U svom fondu ima 893 njena umetnička rada, ali i zbirku dečijih crteža, njene lične predmete, nameštaj, biblioteku… Galerija je i svojevrsni informaciono-dokumentacioni centar, koji sadrži bogat arhivski, dokumentarni, bibliografski, publicistički, foto, filmski i video-materijal, koji se odnosi ne samo na Milenino umetničko stvaralaštvo već i na život i delo njenih roditelja, i brojnih istaknutih članova porodica Pavlović iz Požarevca i Barilli iz Italije. Proteklo vreme u radu Galerije obeleženo je raznovrsnim programskim sadržajima i zanimljivim, dobro organizovanim umetničkim manifestacijama, među kojima se kao poseban projekat izdvaja međunarodni bijenale U svetlosti Milene. GALERIJA MILENE PAVLOVIĆ BARILI, FONDACIJA MILENIN DOM Voje Dulića 14, 12000 POŽAREVAC, tel. +381 12 224 173

Young woman in black dress, 1927. liko godina Milenine slike obići će Evropu. Putuje po Španiji, Italiji, Engleskoj, vraćajući se povremeno u zemlju gde je rođena i gde, kako kažu njeni biografi, nije uspela da pronađe mesto učitelja crtanja čak ni u Tetovu. Početkom četrdesetih godina prošlog veka nastanjuje se u Parizu, gde će, sa izvesnim prekidima, živeti sve do 1939. godine, do odlaska u Njujork. Stari kontinent je već bio osvojen. Korak po korak, sliku po sliku, Milena je velikane francuske kulture, poput Pola Valerija ili Andrea Bretona, naterala da promišljaju i pišu o njenom delu. Andre Lot beleži : „Njen modernizam je potpuno lični.“ Đani Kavacini otkriva da njenim delima vlada „kosmopolitski modernizam, što upućuje na snagu njenog temperamenta, dubinu znanja i senzibiliteta“. Njeni motivi objedinjuju svetove drevnog Egipta, stare Grčke, modernog Pariza. Ako je 1932. godina naznačila početak Mileninog sanjarskog, metafizičkog slikarstva, Devojka sa lampom iz 1935. godine označava definitivno pronađen izraz, „početak jednog novog ciklusa u kome se prepliću nadrealistički i fantazmagorični sadržaji“. Žigosana nepristajanjem, ona i dalje traga. Mora biti da postoji još neki korak dublje, ka unutrašnjosti. Rovareći po sebi, iznedriće stih: „Moje ruke pale lice i kosu u barjaku ognja. Kad će biti kraj mukama? Sve je prazno, vazduhom leti pepeo. Moj poslednji pogled trne u spokoju neba koje odražava vode svih mora.“ ŽIGOSANA NEPRISTAJANJEM Lutanja ne prestaju. U novom svetu preko velike vode Milena slika Melanholiju i Tišinu. Njen izraz je tvrđi, otuđeniji. Raspevanost i poetičnost ustupaju mesto Young woman with lamp, 1935.

Self-portrait with shield and eagle, 1940. čvrstini forme. Po pisanju Miodraga Protića, našeg najpoznatijeg poznavaoca njenog dela, shvatićemo da je „onaj svet koji je dat pre kategorija“ slikarka ponela sa sobom iz zavičaja: „Sećaće se romantizma palanačkih bioskopa, zaraslih seoskih grobalja, munja, kiša, i iz tuđine pisati da zalasci sunca nigde nisu tako lepi kao u bašti njenog požarevačkog doma.“ Paralelno sa usavršavanjem svog slikarskog umeća Milena se bavi i crtežom. Jednostavnost linije, odnegovani ukus i prepoznatljiv stil ponudiće američkom svetu mode radeći kao ilustrator za časopis Vog. Udaje se 1943. godine za engleskog aristokratu Roberta Tomasa Astora Goslena. Već naredne godine radi skice za kostime prve opere Đan Karla Menotija Sebastian. Preživevši pad sa konja i tešku povredu kičme 6. marta 1945. godine, iznenada umire u svojoj 36. godini. Svi poznati američki časopisi objavljuju vest o njenoj smrti. Dve godine kasnije Bruno Barili piše njenoj majci u Požarevac: „Milena je bila srećna, čak je plesala s Goslenom u restoranu hotela Plaza. Pošli su da spavaju i njeno srce se zaustavilo...“ Zaustavilo se i lutanje. Sati su prestali da otkucavaju i prostrla se večnost. Američko-britanski umetnički centar 1948. godine postavlja izložbu njenih dela, a tek 1955. godine organizovana je njena komemorativna izložba u Beogradu. „Kada smo budni, imamo svi isti svet, a kada sanjamo, svako svoj“ – kao potvrda njene individualnosti dolazi i ta Aristotelova misao. Uostalom, dovoljno je reći da je ona slikala svoj san – a san je tako divlji. Dok god uspevamo da očuvamo tu božansku privilegiju, tu sponu između svetova, dok god sanjamo, umećemo da osetimo i njene slike. Hoćemo li ih razumeti? Razumevanje je i tako kategorija svesti, a Milena, Milena je živela svoj san. Uvila ga je nežno u platno i boju i ostavila u amanet vremenu i sanjarima. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

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PERO GALLERY 25th September – 10th October Milan Paradinović Exhibition Cycle – Rift GALERIJA PERO 25. septembar – 10. oktobar Izložba Milana Paradinovića Ciklus - Raskol www.artmilan.net

ART PAVILION CVJETA ZUZORIC 10th October – 31st October Ilija Bosilj exhibition Paintings from the Iliad UMETNIČKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIĆ 10. oktobar -31. oktobar Izložba Ilije Bosilja Slike sa Ilijade www.basicevic.net

24TH BELGRADE JAZZ FESTIVAL 24th October – 27th October Jazz Emotions 24. BEOGRADSKI JAZZ FESTIVAL 24. oktobar -27. oktobar Jazz Emotions www.belgrade-jazzfest.org

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BELGRADE ARENA 8th November Jean Michel Jarre Oxygene ARENA BEOGRAD 8. novembar Jean Michel Jarre Oxygene www.arenabeograd.com

OЗONE GALLERY 8th October – 10th October Belgrade Dance Screen GALERIJA OZON 8. oktobar - 10. oktobar Belgrade Dance Screen www.belgradedancefestival.com

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTER 23rd October – 1st November The Century of French&Belgian Cartoon FRANCUSKI KULTURNI CENTAR 23. oktobar - 1. novembar Vek francusko-belgijskog stripa www.ccf.org.yu

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

�� Enjoy excellent meals by

on all Austrian Airlines flights.

��

Informations and reservations - Terazije 3/3, 11000 Belgrade, ✆ +381 11 3248077, www.austrian.com, or at your travel agency. Earn miles with Miles&More.

www.austrian.com

NOVI SAD ID

FISH AND GREENS

A MEAL SERVED ON FOR FOUR AND A HALF TABLES

If accidentally or intentionally you ended up in downtown Novi Sad seeking to enrich your culinary experience with meals of authentic Mediterranean cuisine, Fish and Greens in Skerliceva street is just the right place. On four and a half tables on 25 sq meters or in its winter garden, you may enjoy quality fresh fish, seafood or various vegetables seasoned by aromatic spice - either do it yourself or choose from the blackboard menu. You may freely make a suggestion to the chef from the “spy” table in the restaurant’s gallery as you watch him prepare food to make a proper combination of food and wine for you. Finally, you can think up your own ending to the story of Fish and Greens, cosied up with many details like a mermaid swimming into an open kitchen or an unusual restaurant window with spice on display – a delightful and satisfying experience.

FISH I ZELENIŠ

OBROK ZA ČETIRI I PO STOLA Ako ste se, slučajno ili namerno, našli u centru Novog Sada, a poželeli da svoje kulinarsko iskustvo obogatite jelima autentične med- INFO iteranske kuhinje, Fish i zeleniš u Skerlićevoj ulici je pravo odredište. Za Restaurant Fish and Greens četiri i po stola tog restorana u 25 kvadrata ili njegovoj zimskoj bašti Skerlićeva 1 i 2 preko puta, po principu sam svoj kuvar ili preporuci jelovnika sa table, Novi Sad možete uživati u ukusima sveže ribe, plodova mora i različitog povrća, 021-452-000 začinjenih mirisnim travkama. I slobodno dobacite kuvaru sa špijunskog 062-258-452 stola galerije restorana dok posmatrate kako priprema obrok da vam www.fish&zelenis.co.yu vešto upari hranu i vino. Priču Fisha i zeleniša, koju oplemenjuju All major cards accepted pažljivo ušuškani detalji, poput morske sirene koja uranja u otvorenu kuhinju ili neobičnog izloga sa začinima, dovršite sami, jer je ona istinski čuvar vaših zalogaja.

Novi Sad is the tourist, administrative, economic, cultural, scientific and political centre of the autonomous province of Vojvodina, and is the second largest city in Serbia. Geographically it lies at a latitude of 19° 20’and a longitude of 45° 46’. The city has an outstanding geostrategic position due to its location on the Rhine-Main-Danube waterway (corridor 7) and corridor 10 and international land route E-75. In addition, Novi Sad is the busiest railway crossroads in this part of the country. The city represents a unique mixture of modern and traditional cultural values. The name Novi Sad means New Plantation (garden). The city’s urban history dates back to Roman times in the area of the Petrovaradin rock. The military-strategic position on which the monumental fortress was built has a very long and interesting history. Across from the fortress, on the left bank of the Danube, a village of soldiers, craftsmen and tradesmen settled in 1694, after the Turks were driven out at the end of the 17th century. The Austrians then built a bridgehead around the village, which .was first named Racko (Serbian) village, and later Petrovaradinski sanac (Petrovaradin retrenchment). The village grew and its freedom-loving residents obtained the status of a free royal city under the name of Neoplanta, Neusatz, Újvidék by buying their freedom from Empress Marie Therese. The city took the name Novi Sad on February 1st, 1748. On the border between civilizations, which is reflected in the city's national composition and mixture of cultures, the city developed a unique spirit that is reflected in its culture and architecture, and even managed to reconcile and bridge many historical differences and conflicts.

E D I T O R I A L C I T Y B R E A K

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U V O D N I K N O V I S A D

Dear Novi Sad visitors, Fallen leaves on sidewalks and streets are signs that our city is well into autumn. The Serbian National Theatre has started its season of drama, opera and ballet performances, while museums and galleries are changing and completing their exhibitions. Golden autumn also means the Old Gold Jazz Festival is being prepared in Novi Sad. Marking its 9th edition this year, the Festival will host the biggest names in the world of jazz, while the participation of local jazz musicians educated at the world’s famous music academies will make this Festival uniquely special. Guests from brotherly cities such as Dortmund, Germany and Modena, Italy are on their way to Novi Sad this November. Danube Park is an excellent choice this fall for a short rest. Allow yourselves more time to go for a walk along the river and take in the splendour of Petrovaradin Fortress. Recent rainless weekends have been ideal for visiting the Fruška Gora mountains, where paths covered with golden leaves lead to treasuries of honourable icons, holy relics, and other valuable religious items kept in one of 17 Orthodox monasteries located in the national park. Located a short drive from the city, famous Vojvodina farms, known as salaši, remind us of bygone romantic times in Pannonian rural settlements. Founded in the 12th century, either in groups or as individual sites, today they uphold a traditional way of life. The farms near Novi Sad are ideal places to rest and relax from the rushed and noisy urban way of life. On the farms you can spend your leisure time either passively or actively, enjoy perfect meals from Vojvodina, walk, hunt, ride on coaches, prepare preserves and winter food, enjoy leisure time etc. Novi Sad is this autumn, as every year, an experience not to be missed. Sincerely yours, Ivanka Čubrilo, Chief of Economy and Tourism of the City of Novi Sad

Dragi gosti Novog Sada, Opalo lišće na trotoarima i ulicama znak je da je jesen odavno u našem gradu. Srpsko narodno pozorište počelo je sezonu dramskih, operskih i baletskih predstava, a muzeji i galerije menjaju i upotpunjuju svoje postavke. Zlatna jesen je termin kada se uveliko priprema Novosadski Old Gold Jazz Festival. Praznik džeza ušao je u svoju devetu godinu. Vernoj publici predstavljaju se najveće zvezde svetskog džeza, a posebnost Festivala su muzičari koji su se rodili u ovom gradu a školuju se na evropskim i svetskim muzičkim akademijama. Tih novembarskih dana stići će i dragi gosti iz gradova-pobratima, kao što su nemački Dortmund i italijanska Modena. Dunavski park je i ove jeseni pravi izbor za kratki predah. Sa malo više vremena krenite u šetnju pored reke sa pogledom na Petrovaradinsku tvrđavu. Poslednji vikendi bez kiše idealni su za boravak na Fruškoj gori gde staze prekrivene zlatnim lišćem vode do riznica časnih ikona, svetih moštiju i crkvenih relikvija i dragocenosti koji se čuvaju u sedamnaest pravoslavnih manastira. A u neposrednoj blizini grada, čuveni vojvođanski salaši svojim autentičnim izgledom podsećaju na prošla, romantična vremena, panonskih ruralnih naselja. Nastali su u 12. veku, grupisani ili usamljeni, a danas su čuvari tradicionalnog načina života. Salaši u okolini Novog Sada su idealno mesto za odmor i opuštanje od urbanog, bučnog života svakodnevice. Na salašima ćete, pasivno ili aktivno provodeći vreme, uživati u savršenom vojvođanskom zalogaju, šetnji, lovu, vožnji fijakerom, pripremanju slatka i zimnice, dokolici... Novi Sad je i ove jeseni - iskustvo koje ne treba propustiti.

Skupština grada Novi Sad City Assembly of Novi Sad

Srdačno Vaša, Ivanka Čubrilo Načelnik za privredu i turizam Grada Novog Sada

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

Salaš 137

AUTUMN IS HERE, MY DEAR

The image of a solitary house with a garden plot and water wells surrounded by fields, ducks, geese and other fowl represents an archetypal settlement found on the Pannonian plain. This idealised image of farms in the immense plain continues to this day, not far from the city. Moreover, a completely different way of life awaits you on the farms; time passes slowly here and seems geared towards providing relaxation and pleasure.

rowing numbers of city dwellers spend their short vacations and free time on the farms of the Vojvodina Plain, or salaši as they’re known locally. Guests come to these farms, which are synonyms for abundance, to enjoy their culinary gifts: homemade pork sausage, various ham products, head-cheese and cracklings,

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homemade bread and cheese, strudels and krofna (fried batter). Everything is consumed slowly, with a view towards enjoyment. That relaxed, slow, hedonistic rhythm is the main feature of the farmers’ temperament. In the tourist offer of Novi Sad and its surroundings, the farms of Cenej are most numerous. One

of them, Salaš 137 - with a horse farm, wine cellar and serving various cookery specialties - has in a relatively short period become a very popular and successful tourist complex. Salaš 137, in accordance with tradition, cherishes a concept of light meals that start with a sip of quince brandy and flow like a river on a plain along which float chosen meals

from the rich gamut of Vojvodina cuisine. Salaš 137 offers exclusive accommodation in the rooms decorated in Alt Deutsch style. Another oasis of Čenej rest is located on Naš Salaš. In contrast to the typical plain farms, Naš Salaš is surrounded with a century-old forest. Its owners say that their restaurant has no equal in terms of the beauty of its milieu, while the food and wine are carefully chosen. Nature lovers can take a coach and ride across the spacious Čenej district, while guests searching for adrenalin can take a ride on a sports airplane. Four-seat sports planes take off from nearby Čenej Airport and fly over fields and cultivated land, the city of Novi Sad, along the Danube and all way to the mountains of the Fruska Gora Natural Park. Horse lovers can relax and visit nearby Pejićeve Salaše, whose owner is the founder of local modern horse breeding, where recreational riding is offered. Salaš of the Volić Family is specialised for children. During a one-day visit children get to know the way of life in the country, farm animals, old crafts, and can participate in creative workshops and field work or make cakes. THE FARMS ALONG THE DANUBE The farms along the Danube form part of another interesting and separate story. Cveja at Begeč is famous for the Bačka lunch and various traditional specialties made according to the recipes of our grandmothers. Cvejin Salaš is well hidden behind

INFO: Salaš 137, Čenej Tel: 021/ 714 505 www.salas137.rs Naš salaš, Čenej Tel: 021/ 714 704, info@ekopark.co.rs Association of Salaš Owners of Čenej Volić, Čenej Tel: 021/ 714 576 volic@teamnet.ws

Cvejin salaš, Begeč Tel: 021/ 898 045 Dunavski salaši Veternik Tel: 021/ 801 66 06 www.dunavskisalasi. com Salaš kod Mlađe Begeč Tel: 021/627 58 70 Salaš 84, Kać Tel: 021/ 445 995 www.salas84.rs

oak, chestnut and linden treetops and is regularly visited by Italian hunters. In the immediate area is Salas at Mladja’s, a favourite destination for guests who put a premium on comfort. The rooms at Mladja’s farm have bathrooms with a Jacuzzi, while the motif is based on the idea of mixing the modern and traditional. The closeness of the Danube and fish ponds is ideal for hunting, fishing, riding in boats or cycling, walking and bird watching. Ten kilometers away from the centre of Novi Sad, near Veternik, is a complex of Danube farms with a mini golf club, while on the old Žabalj road near Kać is another tourist complex – Salaš 84. This farm also offers comfort and exclusive accommodation. Guests can spend their time relaxing, hunting, going on a photo-safari, and when it is time to

Salaš 137 eat, the restaurant serves delicious specialties from Vojvodina and the famous wines from Karlovac. By now the message should be clear: get on over to the Salaš! A different way of life awaits you, a place where time recalls the scent of quince on the cupboard, the pleasure of relaxation that is, unfortunately, becoming more rare just as it becomes more necessary. * Salaš - a farm or a self-sufficient household surrounded with the traditional structures such as farmhouses, barns, silos etc. SNEZANA STOJANOVIĆ

Salaš Volić

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

JESEN STIŽE DUNJO MOJA Slika usamljene kuće sa okućnicom, bunarom i đermom okružene poljima, mnoštvo plovki, gusaka i druge peradi arhetip je naseobine Panonske ravnice. Idilična slika salaša u nepreglednoj ravnici očuvana je i danas u neposrednoj blizini grada. A na salašima čeka vas jedan drugačiji način života, vreme koje teče lagano, osmišljeno da opusti i pruži uživanje.

ve je više gradskih ljudi koji svoje kratke odmore i dane odvojene za opuštanje provode na salašima. Na imanjima vojovođanske ravnice, koja je sinonim za obilje, gosti se hrane njenim darovima: kulenom, šunkom, švarglama i čvarcima, domaćim hlebom i sirom, štrudlama, krofnama... I sve to redom, natenane. Taj opušteni, lagani, hedonistički ritam glavna je crta naravi ratara. U turističkoj ponudi Novog Sada i okoline najbrojniji su čenejski salaši. Jedan od njih, Salaš 137, sa ergelom konja, podrumom vina i raznovrsnim kulinarskim delicijama, postao je za kratko vreme veoma popularan i uspešan turistički kompleks. Salaš 137, kako to i dolikuje tradiciji, neguje koncept laganog obedovanja, koje počinje uz fićuk domaće rakije od dunje i dalje teče kao ravničarska reka kojom plove probrana jela vojvođanske kuhinje. Salaš 137 nudi i ekskluzivan smeštaj u sobama “alt deutsch” stila. Druga čenejska oaza odmora nalazi se na Našem salašu. Za razliku od tipičnih ravničarskih ambijenata, Naš salaš je okružen stoletnom šumom. Vlasnici kažu da njihov restoran po lepoti mesta

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

nema premca, a hrana i vino su im pažljivo probrani. Ljubitelji prirode mogu na salašu da uzmu fijaker i provozaju se prostranim salaškim atarom, a gosti koji su u potrazi za adrenalinom mogu da se otisnu u avanturu letenja sportskim avionom. Sa obližnjeg Čenejskog aerodroma u sportskom četvorosedu leti se preko oranica i polja, grada Novog Sada, Dunava, sve do Fruške gore. Ljubitelji konja mogu da posete i obližnje Pejićeve salaše, čiji je vlasnik utemeljivač savremenog konjarstva i nudi programe rekreativnog jahanja. Salaš porodice Volić specijalizovan je za najmlađe posetioce. Tokom dnevnog boravka deca se upoznaju sa načinom života na selu, domaćim životinjama, starim zanatima, učestvuju u kreativnim radionicama, ratarskim radovima, pravljenju kolača. DUNAVSKI SALAŠI Drugu celinu zanimljivih mesta za odmor čine salaši uz Dunav. Brojne i zaslužene preporuke dobila je Cveja kod Begeča za bački ručak i razne specijalitete preuzete iz receptura starinskih kuhinja naših baka. Cvejin salaš dobro je skriven

iza krošnji hrastova, kestena i lipa i redovno ga posećuju lovci iz Italije. U neposrednoj blizini je i Salaš kod Mlađe, koji vole da posećuju ljudi što ne žele da se odriču komoditeta savremenog života. Sobe na Salašu kod Mlađe imaju kupatila sa đakuzijem i čitav prostor je utemeljen na ideji spoja modernog i tradicionalnog. Blizina Dunava i ribnjaka idealna je za lov, ribolov, vožnju čamcem ili biciklom, šetnje, posmatranje ptica.. Desetak kilometara od centra Novog Sada, u blizini Vetrnika, nalaze se Dunavski salaši, sa mini-golf klubom, a na starom žabaljskom drumu kraj Kaća je još jedan atraktivan turistički kompleks - Salaš 84. I na ovom salašu gosti koji vole komfor mogu da uživaju u ekskluzivnom smeštaju. Restoran nudi jelovnik vojvođanskih specijaliteta, a vreme boravka može se ispuniti rekreacijom, lovom, foto-safarijem, degustacijom čuvenih karlovačkih vina... Krenite ka salašima. Tamo vas čeka jedan drugačiji način života, vreme koje prizivamo mirisom dunja sa ormara, uživanje u opuštanju koje je sve ređe – i sve potrebnije. SNEŽANA STOJANOVIĆ

INFO | NOVI SAD NOVI SAD TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 9 21000 Novi Sad, Serbia Tel./fax: +381 21 421 811, 421 812 e-mail: ticns@nadlanu.com www.novisadtourism.com THE MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVI SAD PETROVARADIN FORTRESS Tel. 021/64 33 145, 64 33 613 THE MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVI SAD – FOREIGN ART COLLECTION Dunavska 29, Tel.021/451 239 THE MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVI SAD- THE MEMORIAL COLLECTION OF JOVAN JOVANOVIC ZMAJ Sremska Kamenica, J. J. Zmaja 1, Tel. 021/ 462 810 THE MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF NOVI SAD – THE HOMELAND MUSEUM SREMSKI KARLOVCI Sremski Karlovci, Patrijarha Rajačića 16, tel. 021/810 637 THE MUSEUM OF VOJVODINA Dunavska 35-37, tel: 021/420 566, 526 555 Ethno house Brvnara, Bački Jarak Tel. 021/525 059 Agricultural museum Kulpin Tel. 021/786 266 THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY FINE ART Jevrejska 21, Tel. 021/66 13 897, fax. 021/66 11 463 THE INSTITUTE OF THE PROTECTION OF NATURE IN SERBIA, NOVI SAD Radnička 20a, tel. 021/48 96 302

GALLERIES MATICA SRPSKA GALLERY Trg galerija 1, Tel. 021/48 99 000 THE MEMORIAL COLLECTION OF PAVLE BELJANSKI Trg galerija 2 , Tel. 021/472 99 66 FINE ART GALLERY – MEMORIAL COLLECTION OF RAJKO MAMUZIĆ V ase Stajića 1, Tel. 021/520 467, 520 223 HOTELI/HOTELS 5* PARK, Novosadskog sajma 35, tel: 48 88 888 5* LEOPOLD I, Petrovaradinska tvrđava, tel: 48 87 878 4* ALEKSANDAR, Bul. cara Lazara 79, tel: 480 44 44, 480 44 80 3* SAJAM, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel: 420 266 3* VOJVODINA, Trg Slobode 2, tel: 66 22 122, 66 15 445 3* NOVI SAD, Bul. Jaše Tomića bb, tel: 442 511 3* NORCEV, Iriški Venac, Elektrovojvodina, Partizanski put bb, tel: 48 00 222, 48 00 256 3* ZENIT, Zmaj Jovina 8, tel: 66 21 444, 66 21 327 3* PANORAMA, Futoška 1a, tel 4801 800 2* FITNESS GYMNAS, Teodora Pavlovića 28, tel: 467 710 2* MEDITERANEO, Ilije Ognjanovića 10, tel: 427 135 2* RIMSKI, Jovana Cvijića 26, tel: 444 765, 443 231 1* SVETI GEORGIJE, Petrovaradin Marina Držića 1, tel: 432 332 1* EPICENTAR, Branka Ćopića 122, tel: 674 82 81, 674 82 81 1* DUGA, Ćirila i Metodija 11b, tel: 63 64 191, 469 754

STANOVI/SOBE za izdavanje/ APPARTMANS/ROOMS for rent 4* VOYAGER, Stražilovska 16, tel: 453 711 4* VILA UNA, Avijatičarska 9, tel: 518 101 4* TAMARA, Lasla Gala 26, tel: 065/5 43 55 43 4* SALAŠ KOD MLAĐE, Begeč, tel: 063/502 790 4* FILIP, Joakim Vujić 14, tel: 6310 876, 064/11 86 172 4* MARINA, Zmaj Jovina 6/II sprat, tel : 457 621, 062/ 8407 147 4* CAR ROYAL APPARTMENTS, cara Dušana 69, tel: 636 22 00 4* T.A.L. CENTAR, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel: 061 208 02 62 4* RO-XEN, Cankareva 22, tel: 064 158 54 07 3* APARTMAN 34, Polgar Andraša 40 c, tel 064/169 96 46 3* DUNJA,Cara Dušana 70 tel: 895 082, 064/15 68 098 TURISTIČKI APARTMANI/ TOURIST SUITS 2* BONACA, Kisačka 62, tel: 446 600, 446 555 PANSION 3* BULAĆ, Čenej, Međunarodni put 80, tel: 714 455 HOSTEL IYHF Brankovo kolo, Visarionova 3, tel: 66 22 160, 528 263 DOWNTOWN, Njegoševa 2, tel: 064/19 20 342 LAZINO TELE, Laze Teleckog 10, tel: 063 443703 , 064 0133030 radi jun-avg SOVA, Ilije Ognjanovica 26, tel: 527 556

PRENOĆIŠTA/BOARDING HOUSES NAŠ SALAŠ, Međunarodni put 325, tel: 714 704, 064 873 91 01 BELA LAĐA, Zlatne grede 15, tel: 66 16 594, 472 51 20 VIGOR, Jožefa Atile 2, tel: 689 44 44 SALAŠ 137, Čenej, Međunarodni put, tel: 714 501, 714 505 OLIMP, Sr. Kamenica, Miloša Obilića 8, tel: 463 295 KORDUN, Sr. Kamenica, Moše Pijade 10a, tel: 462 860 EVANGELINA, Sr. Kamenica, Branislava Bukurova 2, tel: 464 111 ILIDŽA, Sr. Kamenica, Ledinački put 1, tel: 461 158 JET SET, Temerinski put 41, tel: 6414 511 BOR, Temerinski put 57, tel: 6412 424 FONTANA, Nikole Pašića 27, tel: 66 12 760, 66 21 779 BELA LAĐA, Kisačka 21, tel: 6616 594, 472 51 20 ACENTER, Bulevar cara Lazara 94, 489 7 222 STARI KROVOVI, Novosadski put 115, tel: 402 882, 6394 793 App naselje RIBARAC D.O.O. Ribarsko ostrvo 4, tel: 466 977, 466 978 SALAŠ 84, Kać, Kaćki put 84, tel: 445 993 MOTEL RESTORAN ADICE, Branka Ćopića 62, 543-000, 422 335 ILE DE FRANCE, Cara Dušana 41, tel: 6362382

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

A GOOD BITE The next time you find yourself in the centre of Novi Sad, enrich your gastronomic experience by trying the unique and tasteful charms of Mediterranean cuisine at the restaurant Fish & Zeleniš (Fish & Greens). Located just behind a corner, as soon as you walk from Pašićeva into Skerlićeva Street, about 100 metres from the Zmaj Jovina promenade. The restaurant has entrances on both sides of the street, and it doesn’t matter which entrance you choose. When you grab an iron handle on the old wooden doors, you can be certain that your senses will be dazzled and delighted by something new, distinct, and above all, original...

nstead of five stars, the best recommenda- points in order to make sumptuous and creative tion for Fish & Zeleniš is its size, which affirms dishes. When you relax, order a perfect domestic the old saying that happiness and satisfaction wine made of carefully cultivated grapes from the are derived from small things. At four and a half Fruska Gora slopes, and start enjoying branzino with tables, as well as a winter garden across the street, fresh strawberries, plaice rolls or classic and proven the restaurant may be one of the smallest, but its Mediterranean specialties while listening to the new flavours are the largest…you can enjoy the exqui- CD of Diana Kroll or the delicate tones of the violin or site tastes of always fresh fish, sea shells, home acoustic guitar, you should not be surprised by the made pasta and original dishes of look of curious passers-by. They do organic vegetables grown in their INFO not look at you. Their eyes wander own garden. If you are not a fish- Restaurant Fish and Greens all over the restaurant’s interior lover and consider greens only a side Skerlićeva 1 i 2 comprised of sundry details, each dish, the experienced cooks know Novi Sad one with its own story, from old how to tickle your palate, too. In Fish 021-452-000 photos and pictures to the smallest jugs, candlesticks, ancient wine & Zeleniš, meals are being prepared 062-258-452 with hefty portions of passion and www.fish&zelenis.co.yu bottles – all of them proving a great knowledge. All major cards accepted good taste and style... Yet, these are just the starting On the other hand, you will be

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surprised by an unusual menu. While waiting for your dish to be prepared with a view to detail, you can read something about gastronomy or browse some old recipes. Or you may ask the owner to tell his funny story about his reasons for opening the restaurant. If you want, you can take part in making your own meal according to your taste, or enjoy looking at the open kitchen and skilful cooks from a gallery that has celebrated its 120th anniversary. Simply speaking, the succulent flavours at Fish, so called by regular and affectionate guests, are sure to leave you longing for more. It won’t be long before you join their ranks – it usually happens after the first visit when guests feel time measured in a different way, mostly beating to the rhythm of the Danube, making your pleasure last longer... VLADIMIR POČUČ

ČUVAR DOBRIH ZALOGAJA Ako ste se, igrom slučaja ili savim namerno, našli u centru Novog Sada, a poželeli da gastronomsko iskustvo obogatite originalnim i ukusnim čarolijama mediteranske kuhinje, restoran Fish & zeleniš jeste pravo i jedino odredište. Tu je, odmah iza ćoška, čim iz Pašićeve zakoračite u Skerlićevu ulicu, svega stotinak metara od šetališta u Zmaj Jovinoj ulici. Nalazi se na obe strane ulice pa je svejedno gde ćete najpre ući. Bitno je samo da se uhvatite za malu metalnu bravu starih drvenih vrata sigurni da će Vam u predstojećem iskustvu sva čula biti zadovoljena nečim novim, nesvakidašnjim i pre svega autentičnim....

mesto pet zvezdica, najbolja preporuka za Fish i zeleniš jeste to što svojom veličinom potvrđuje istinu da su sreća i zadovoljstvo u malim stvarima! Za četiri i po stola restorana, za koji mnogi već kažu da je verovatno jedan od najmanjih, ili u njegovoj zimskoj bašti preko puta, možete uživati u ukusima dobrih zalogaja uvek sveže ribe, plodova mora, sveže izrađenih testenina i zaista autentičnih i neponovljivih jela od organski gajenog povrća iz njihove bašte, a ako neko baš i ne ljubi ribu a zeleniš mu je uvek samo „za usput“, iskusni kuvari će i njemu zagolicati nepce dobrim zalogajem.U Fishu i zelenišu se zaista kuva sa mnogo strasti ali i sa mnogo znanja. Ali, za titulu čuvara dobrog zalogaja je potrebno još štošta. Kada se lagano i udobno smestite, naručite odlično domaće vino, od sorti pažljivo odnegovanih na padinama Fruške Gore i krenete da uživate u npr. brancinu sa svežim jagodama, rolnicama ribe list ili u klasičnim i proverenim mediteranskim specijalitetima uz najnoviji album Dajane Krol ili diskretne zvuke violine i akustične gitare, ne treba da budete iznenađeni ni ljubopitljivim pogledima prolazinika, jer oni, zapravo, i ne gledaju u Vas, već im pogled šara po unutrašnjosti restorana gde je za svaki detalj vezana neka priča, od starih fotografija i slika do najmanjih bokalčića, svećnjaka, starinskih vinskih flaša - a sve to je potvrda dobrog ukusa i stila... S druge strane, pak, bićete iznenađeni neuobičajenim jelovnikom. Dok čekate obrok za stolom možete pročitati nešto o gastronomiji, starim receptima pa čak i veselu ispovest vlasnika o tome zašto nam je podario jedan ovakav restoran. Ako poželite, u restoranu Fish &

zeleniš možete, po svom ukusu, da učestvujete u stvaranju svog obroka, ili da uživate u pogledu na otvorenu kuhinju i vešte kuvare sa galerije koja je proslavila svoj 120. rođendan. Jednostavno rečeno, dobar zalogaj je ono što ćete zaista i naći i okusiti u Fish-u, kako ga od milja zovu stalni

gosti, što postajete čim prvi put posetite ovaj restoran i osetite kako vreme drugačije odbrojava trenutke, uglavnom pulsirajući u ritmu Dunava ne bi li vaš užitak duže trajao... VLADIMIR POČUČ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

photograph: Augustin Juriga

TOURIST DESTINATION

A C I T O B U S

Frame for the Secession style Art and architecture at the end of the19th and beginning of the 20 centuries are the most significant parts of Subotica’s cultural inheritance. A new style, called The Secession, found a town in northern Backa to present it as a work of art finds a true frame. Mired in the conservatism and closed milieu of Budapest, young and ambitious artists and architects had no space to express their ideas in the new style. Fortunately, Subotica was there to embrace them. They returned the favour to Subotica with singular works of art in the Hungarian Secession style which are today the focus of so much tourist attention. Palic adds an additional natural oasis to the city that calls on people to meet, socialise and establish friendships.

Ram za secesiju Umetnost i arhitektura sa kraja 19. i početka 20. veka najznačajniji su deo nasleđa Subotice. Novi mladi stil – secesija je pronašla grad na severu Bačke, kao što umetničko delo traži pravi ram. Utonula u konzervativnu zatvorenost Budimpešta nije pružala nimalo prostora mladim i poletnim umetnicima i arhitektima da na krilima novog stila izraze svoje ideje. Zato je tu bila Subotica da ih prihvati. A oni su joj uzvratili jedinstvenim delima mađarske secesije koja i danas plene pažnju turista. Palić u blizini dodaje prirodnu oazu gradu koji poziva na upoznavanje, druženje i prijateljstvo.

SEDUCTIVE CHARM

OF SECESSIONISM The Subotica City Hall is so large and beautiful that it irresistably bears witness to the ancient ambitions of Subotica citizens to tell the world unequivocally that this once largest district in the monarchy, also called “the biggest village”, is a city and they its citizens. The Subotica City Hall is like a sunflower or rooster in the paintings of naïve artists: the biggest, most beautiful, charming and important. Therefore, it is not surprising that it was declared one of the “Seven Natural and Construction Wonders of Serbia”, at a recent Politika Magazine event.

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he largest and most attractive palace in the city, the Subotica City Hall, dominates the city and imfuses it with the distinct charm of Secessionism. Initial construction lasted two years, from 1908 to 1910, after which skilled workers spent just as long decorating its interior. Budapest architects Marcell Komor (1868 - 1944) and Desze Jakab (1864 - 1932) created the building’s initial design in the Neo-Baroque style. Although it was awarded first prize at a design competition, they later changed the project and constructed the building in the Hungarian variation of the then modern European style – Art Nouveau (Secessionism). They decorated the building with Transylvanian motifs of stylized tulips and peacock feathers. The City Hall is a harmonious mixture of handicraft and art. The building is multi-functional, representing political administration, cultural goods, and a public gathering space; it is the seat of the mayor and municipal authorities of Subotica, but also comprises tax services, the History Archive and Inter Municipal Institute for Monument Protection. Young couples are married in its formal halls, while downstairs one finds luxurious shops, galleries, cafes, and business offices. Its interior was carefully arranged by the best skilled workers of Subotica and Hungary, but the entrance door, formal, green and yellow council chambers and tax department, with unusual blue secessionist furniture, still stand out in their beauty. The building is now paying back the enormous effort and funds Subotica citizens invested in it at the beginning of the 20th century. As guard or talisman, the building protects all the people in its environment. The City Hall is literally both the CITY and the HALL of all Subotica citizens, who say they cannot live without it, and counts “real time” as measured by its tower clocks. Although it has changed several countries through the centuries, the City Hall has mostly stayed the same; only the symbols placed on its crown have changed. Immediately after its completion, the city coat of arms and cross stood on its top. In 1949 they were replaced by a socialist star, while in 1994 the cross was once returned. The City Hall is a cultural monument of great importance. KINGS, GLASS AND STAINED-GLASS WINDOWS In the formal council chamber, the most beautiful room in the City Hall, stained-glass windows are a festival of colours and beauty. They were manufactured in the famous workshop of Miksa Roth in Budapest. He made drawings of Hungarian grandees on the side windows as well as the central stained-glass windows depicting two pages, Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Maria Theresa,

while the six most beautiful stained-glass windows of Hungarian kings were made by Sandor Nadj. The left wall is covered by portraits of Janos Hunyadi (the first ruler of Subotica, known in the Serbian tradition as Sibinjanin Janko), Verboczy and Ferenc Rakoczy II, while on the right wall are pictures of Stephen Secenji, Ferenc Deak and Lajos Kossuth. The three kings covering the left central wall are Arpad, Saint Stephen and Saint Laszlo, and the right central wall is covered by Matthias Corvinus, Lajos Nagy and Kalman Konyves.

The stained-glass windows have had a turbulent destiny. Following World War One, when Subotica became part of a new country, Yugoslavia, the figures shown on the stained glass belonged to the history of some other country and the new authorities decided to remove them. They placed the stained glass in City Hall basements and put in new windows made of regular glass. The old stained-glass windows were again returned during occupation in World War Two, but as soon as the country was liberated, they were again taken down violently and returned to the darkness of the basements. The dampness underground did the rest. In the 1970s, people from the community centre, taking care of the City Hall, drew out splinters in buckets and forwarded them to the famous stain glass workshop of Stevan Stanišić in Sombor. Fortunately, Stanišić had drawings of all the stained-glass windows, and natural-sized photos were made in Interpublik in Belgrade. By placing glass on the photos, the stained glass was restored and returned to the formal council chamber’s window frames, but without the names of Hungarian grandees and with coverings to hide them from view.

Fortunately, on June 22nd, 1977, a high-ranking liberal official arrived in Subotica. Looking around City Hall, he asked: “Why are the windows covered?” When he heard that the coverings hid the stained glass images of Hungarian kings and emperors, he said: “Woe to the party that is afraid of glass kings”. On June 26th, 1977, the coverings were taken off and the stained glass shone again in the formal council chamber. The names of grandees were restored in 2005. ZSOLNAY CERAMICS The City Hall building is made especially attractive by the bright and colourful ceramics covering both the interior and exterior of the building. This was the work of the famous Zsolnay ceramics from Pecs in Hungary. Although the factory was first set up in 1868, it became famous during the period of Secessionism, and really triumphed at the international exhibition in Paris in 1900 when it presented its new product “pirogranite”. Using a special procedure, they discovered a very attractive tinted enamel “eosin”. Burned on pirogranite, it is a firework of beauty. The ceramics are very hard, of consistent enamel, which Zsolnay had already been producing for ten years, and it would become one of the trademarks of the new art – Art Nouveau. Eden Lehner, undisputedly the best author of Secessionism in Hungry, perfectly explained the necessity of ceramics: “We have neither stone nor marble and wood. We only have an immense sea of mud, a material susceptible for inscribing people’s bitterness.” The Zsolnay ceramics shone brightly in City Hall. The formal entrance is covered by dark green tiles edged from the upper side with signs of Subotica craftsmanship and animal heads. Here and there, such as at the end of the first phase of staircases, tiles are edged with real masterpieces. Two ceramic roosters also found their place on the sides of staircases. On a formal staircase landing are two ceramic figures: a falcon as the symbol of the Hungarian arrival in the Pannonian lowlands, as well as a raven holding a ring in his beak, as a symbol of the Corvinus Royal Family. The roof of the City Hall is covered with green and yellow ceramic tiles from Pesc. In front of the formal entrance to the City Hall, another blue Zsolnay fountain was constructed in 1999. It harmoniously emanates the beauty of City Hall, Subotica as the centre of Secessionism and perhaps the most beautiful city centre in Serbia. BOŠKO KRSTIĆ photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

photographs: Augustin Juriga

O T

ZAVODLJIVI ŠARM SECESIJE Gradska kuća u Subotici toliko je velika i toliko lepa da neodoljivo svedoči o davnoj ogromnoj želji stanovnika Subotice da svakom stave do znanja da je Subotica, nekada zbog najvećeg atara u monarhiji nazivana najveće selo, grad, a da su oni građani. Gradska kuća je kao suncokret ili petao na slikama naivnih umetnika: najveća, najlepša, najšarenija, najvažnija. Zato ne čudi što je na nedavnoj Akciji Politikinog magazina Sedam srpskih čuda prirode i graditeljstva proglašena za jedno od tih čuda. Ona to i jeste.

uboticom dominira najveća i najatraktivnija palata – Gradska kuća, koja gradu daje svojevrsni šarm secesije. Podignuta je za samo dve godine, od 1908. do 1910, ali su majstori još dve godine ukrašavali njenu unutrašnjost. Projektovali su je budimpeštanski arhitekti Marcel Komor (1868– 1944) i Deže Jakob (1864–1932), prvobitno u neobaroknom stilu, ali su svoj prvonagrađeni projekat na konkursu kasnije izmenili i izgradili je u mađarskoj varijanti tada modernog evropskog stila – secesije. Ukrasili su je erdeljskim motivima, sa bezbroj šara stilizovanog cveta lale i paunovog perja. Gradska kuća je skladan spoj zanatstva i umetnosti. U njoj je sedište gradonačelnika i subotičke samouprave, tu su i poreske službe, Istorijski arhiv, Međuopštinski zavod za zaštitu spomenika, u njenim svečanim dvoranama se Subotičani venčavaju, a u prizemlju

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su najluksuznije prodavnice, galerije, ugostiteljski objekti i poslovni prostori. Unutrašnjost Gradske kuće brižljivo su uredili najbolji majstori ondašnje Subotice i Ugarske, ali se lepotom posebno ističu glavni ulaz, Svečana, Zelena i Žuta većnica i poresko odeljenje s neobičnim plavim secesijskim nameštajem. Ogromni trud i pare koje su početkom dvadesetog veka Subotičani uložili u nju, ona danas svima vraća i kao da, poput neke zaštitnice ili amajlije, štiti i čuva sve oko sebe. Gradska kuća je zbilja i GRADSKA i KUĆA svih Subotičana koji tvrde da ne mogu da žive bez nje, a da je jedino pravo vreme ono koje pokazuju satovi u njenom tornju. Iako je u svom veku promenila nekoliko država, Gradska kuća je uglavnom ostala ista. Jedino su na njenom vrhu menjani simboli: posle izgradnje postavljen je grb grada i krst, 1949. zvezda petokraka, a 1994. ponovo krst.

Gradska kuća je spomenik kulture od izuzetnog značaja. KRALJEVI, STAKLO I VITRAŽI U Svečanoj većnici, najlepšoj dvorani Gradske kuće, vitraži na prozorima su pravi praznik boje i lepote. Rađeni su u čuvenoj radionici Mikše Rota u Budimpešti. On je pripremio crteže mađarskih velikana na bočnim prozorima i centralne vitraže s likovima dva paža, cara Franje Josifa i carice Marije Terezije, a najlepših šest vitraža mađarskih kraljeva delo su Šandora Nađa. Na levom zidu su likovi Janoša Hunjadija (u srpskom predanju Sibinjanin Janka, prvog gospodara Subotice), Verbecija i Ferenca Rakocija II, a na desnom Ištvana Sečenjija, Ferenca Deaka i Lajoša Košuta. Tri kralja na levoj strani centralnog zida su Arpad, Sveti Ištvan i Sveti Laslo, a na desnoj Matija Korvin, Lajoš Nađ i Kalman Kenjveš.

Burna je sudbina tih vitraža. Budući da je posle Prvog svetskog rata Subotica pripala novoj zemlji, Jugoslaviji, a kako su likovi na vitražima deo istorije druge zemlje, nova vlast ih je skinula, odložila u podrume Gradske kuće, a prozore prekrila običnim staklom. Stari vitraži biće vraćeni na svoja mesta tokom okupacije u Drugom svetskom ratu, ali će odmah posle oslobođenja biti grubo poskidani i oštećeni, ponovo sklonjeni u podrume Gradske kuće. Za ostalo su se pobrinule vlaga i voda. Sedamdesetih godina 20. veka ljudi iz Doma kulture, koji je brinuo o Gradskoj kući, u kofama su izvukli iz podruma krhotine stakla i otpremili u Sombor u čuvenu radionicu vitraža Stevana Stanišića. Na svu sreću, Stanišić je imao crteže svih vitraža, a u beogradskom Interpubliku su napravili fotografije u prirodnoj veličini. Tako su, ređanjem stakla na fotografije, vitraži restaurirani i vraćeni na svoja mesta u prozore Svečane većnice. Ali – bez potpisa ko je ko i zastorima skriveni od očiju javnosti. Srećom, 22. juna 1977, u Suboticu je stigao jedan visoki liberalniji funkcioner i, razgledajući Gradsku kuću, upitao: „Zašto su prozori zastrti?” Kada je čuo da je to zbog toga što su iza njih vitraži s mađarskim carevima i kraljevima, rekao je: «Teško partiji koja strahuje od staklenih kraljeva.« Posle toga, 26. juna 1977, zastori su skinuti, a vitraži su ponovo zasjali u Svečanoj većnici. Imena likova vraćena su na vitraže 2005. godine.

nedostaje nam i drvo, jedino posedujemo beskrajno more blata, prijemčiv materijal za upisivanje gorčine naroda…« S keramikom Žolnai Gradska kuća je zasjala punim sjajem. Svečani ulaz je prekriven tamnozelenim pločicama koje su s gornje strane oivičene znakovima subotičkih zanata i glavama životinja, a ponegde, kao pri kraju prvog dela stepeništa, i pravim remek-delima – dva keramička petla s obe strane. Na odmorištu svečanog stepeništa dve su keramičke figure: poljski soko, simbol dolaska Mađara u Panonsku niziju, i gavran s prstenom u

kljunu, znak kraljevske loze Korvinovih. Krovovi su takođe pokriveni zelenim i belim keramičkim biber-crepom iz Pečuja. Pred svečanim ulazom u Gradsku kuću je 1999. godine, pored postojeće, izgrađena još jedna, plava fontana Žolnai. One skladno ističu lepotu Gradske kuće i secesijskog centra Subotice, možda najlepšeg centra grada u našoj zemlji. BOŠKO KRSTIĆ fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

KERAMIKA ŽOLNAI Ono što Gradsku kuću čini posebno atraktivnom – sjajnom i šarenom – to je keramika kojom je pokrivena i ukrašena spolja i iznutra, čuvena keramika Žolnai iz mađarskog grada Pečuja. Iako je fabrika vrlo stara, osnovana još 1868. godine, njena slava poklopila se s vremenom secesije, a pravi trijumf doživela je na Svetskoj izložbi u Parizu 1900. godine, kada je predstavila svoj novi proizvod pirogranit. Specijalnim postupkom u pečujskoj fabrici otkrili su i vrlo atraktivnu metaliziranu glazuru eozin, koja je, zapečena na pirogranit, pravi vatromet lepote. To je keramika tvrda kao kamen, vrlo postojanih glazura, koju je Žolnai proizvodio već desetak godina, ali je na prekretnici vekova postala jedan od zaštitnih znakova nove umetnosti – secesije. Eden Lehner, nesporno najveći autoritet secesije u Mađarskoj, sjajno je obrazložio potrebu za keramikom: »Mi nemamo niti kamen, niti mermer,

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THE COLOURS OF AUTUMN When a tourist destination exists for over 160 seasons, it is undoubtedly backed by a treasure of experience and quality that has been created and confirmed for decades. People from every period found good reason to be there, do business and enjoy themselves.

litte Palić today still offers an optimal combination for our present time. The option to be at the banks of Lake Palić, in the middle of natural oasis with the characteristics of a spa resort, in lulled-up and almost intimate hotels, with famous culinary offers and a modern congress centre fully equipped for all types of seminars, workshops and presentations. The presence of all three elements in this offer round out the picture of Palić as ideal for congress tourism, which has been steadily developing, as the conditions that Elitte Palić offers have been checked and confirmed by a

long list of satisfied clients. All facilities that comprise Elitte Palić, namely Mala Gostiona (Small Inn), Riblja Čarda (Fish Porch), the hotels Park and Jezero (Lake), are ranked with four stars, which is top class for restaurants, and almost at the very top in the hotel keeping business. All facilities represent arcitehectural heritage that retains authenticity, and the service there is top quality. The Park Hotel offers a spa centre, with massage, sauna, hydral massage, while Lake Hotel has a fitness centre. The guests of both hotels can use everything on offer.

The Small Inn restaurant is the culinary heart of Palić. Established back in 1852, it has been in the same location, with the same name, for over 150 years. The famous Sunday lunches in the form of buffets that consist of 80 dishes are organised in the Small Inn, with domestic wine from the Subotica-Horgos sands. The Fish Porch is the authentic facility with a distinct image, associating of porches, with excellent cuisine and atmosphere.

BOJE JESENI

litte Palić i danas nudi za naše neobično ubrzano vreme - optimalnu kombinaciju. Mogućnost boravka na obali Palićkog jezera, usred oaze prirode koja ima sva svojstva banjskog lečilišta, u ušuškanim i skoro intimnim hotelima, sa nadaleko čuvenom gastronomskom ponudom i savremenim kongresnim centrom, potpuno opremljenim za sve vrste seminara, radionica, prezentacija. Upravo prisustvo sva tri elementa ponude zaokružuje sliku o Paliću kao idealnom i za kongresni turizam, koji se sve više razvija, jer su uslovi koje Elitte Palić nudi provereni i potvrđeni zavidnom listom zadovoljnih korisnika.

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Kada jedna turistička destinacija postoji duže od 160 sezona, onda je nesumnjivo da baštini ogromno iskustvo, da je razvila kvalitet koji se kalio i potvrđivao decenijama, i da je svako vreme našlo svoje dobre razloge da tu boravi, posluje i uživa. Svi objekti koji se nalaze u sklopu Elitte Palić, a to su Mala gostiona, Riblja čarda, hoteli Park i Jezero, dovedeni su do nivoa kategorije četiri zvezdice, što je za restorane najviša kategorija, a u hotelijerstvu je sasvim blizu vrha. Svi objekti predstavljaju arhitektonsko nasleđe, jer im je sačuvan autentičan izgled, a usluga u njima je vrhunska. Hotel Park u svom sastavu ima i Spa centar koji nudi masaže, saune, hidro masaže, hotel Jezero ima Fitness centar, a sve sadržaje koriste gosti oba hotela. Restoran Mala gostiona je kulinarsko srce Palića.

Nastala daleke 1852. godine, traje već više od 150 godina na istom mestu i sa istim imenom. U Maloj gostioni se organizuje i nadaleko čuveni nedeljni ručak po principu švedskog stola sa više od 80 vrsta jela, domaćim vinom subotičko-horgoške peščare. Riblja čarda je autentičan objekat prepoznatljivog imidža koji asocira na građanske čarde, sa izuzetnom kuhinjom i atmosferom. BELGUEST fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

TOURIST DESTINATION

CRNA GORA

Colours, Tastes, Aromas… Blue, transparent, azure, or darker towards the horizon, dark enough to divide the horizon – the colour of the sea. A variety of many tastes interwoven like waves that run past the tide, one after the other. Wines from local grapes seek shell fish to accompany them. Oil from olive trees that rise up behind cliffs, as do fig and pomegranate trees, like seasoning for harmony. Hotels along the shore are your address for Montenegro. Tourist destinations in which happiness is your only sign post.

Boje, ukusi, mirisi... Plava, prozirna, azurna, ili mrka ka pučini, dovoljno tamna da razdvoji horizont boja mora. Mnoštvo različitih ukusa isprepletanih kao talasi koji nadolaze plimom, jedan za drugim. Vino domaće loze traži plodove mora. Ulje masline što se izdiže iznad hridi, po koji plod smokve, nara, tek kao začin za sklad. Hoteli uz obalu su vaša adresa za Crnu Goru. Turističku destinaciju u kojoj je sreća jedini putokaz.

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RIVIERA HOTEL IN PETROVAC The moments spent in the elegant and luxuriously equipped hotel complex Rivijera in Petrovac prove that the beauty represents a wonderful surprise, the art of nature as well as a gift. The experience of that vacation in Montenegro returns you to your own nature in the most spontaneous way. It is nothing else but a genuine art of living.

alking over long sandy beaches or recognizable Montenegrin coves, indulging in the sunshine and the clear sea together with the scents of pines, palms and cypresses are the traces of beauty that the hotel complex Rivijera offers to its guests. Situated on the coast, in the milieu of the unspoiled nature the four-star Riviera Hotel has 91 luxuriously and comfortably equipped rooms – 11 single –bedded, 38 double-bedded and 42 suites. Guests have board and lodgings at their disposal, too. The hotel has 181 regular beds and 50 cots. In the rooms and suites with the terraces from which there is a beautiful view of the surroundings, guests can use telephones, the Internet connection, room service, safe-deposit boxes, mini bars or watch satellite and cable television. All accommodation capacities of the Rivijera Hotel have air conditioning. A spacious terrace of the King Nikola Bar, located in the shade of lime and pine trees, is an ideal place

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for hotel guests to rest relax, drink their beverages and listen to Mediterranean music. In the boardinghouse restaurant of the Rivijera Hotel and a la cart restaurant Olive with 160 seats, the excellent chefs prepare meals and specialties of national and international cuisine. In the yard of the hotel, there is a swimming pool, with a separate swimming pool for children and a jacuzzi. The Rivijera Hotel has its own car park. The guests of the hotel spend their time most often on the part of the town beach hired by the

hotel or they go sunbathing and swimming on the nearby natural sandy beach Lucice. Sport devotees can use a tennis court, a beach volley playground or a football field near the hotel or they can play table tennis. For children there is an amusement park with wooden items, toboggans, small houses, swings, tables and chairs – a particular playground for the youngest guests. The animators organize their entertainment every day. The activities of the hotel include numerous excursions to Budva and Bar, some twenty kilometers away from Petrovac. The Tivat Airport is 45 kilometers away from that genuine oasis of family vacation and unforgettable romantic moments. The Rivijera Hotel traditionally offers its guests bed and breakfast in double rooms at the price of 35 euros per person out of season. If you had such an experience , you would get just what you deserve- more than the need for the beautiful. VLADIMIR POČUČ

PETROVAČKA RIVIJERA Da je lepota čudesno iznenađenje, umetnost prirode, ali i njen dar, potvrđuju trenuci provedeni u elegantnom i luksuzno opremljenom hotelskom kompleksu Rivijera u Petrovcu. Iskustvo koje ponesete sa takvog odmora u Crnoj Gori vraća vas sopstvenoj prirodi, na najspontaniji način. To nije ništa drugo do istinsko umeće življenja.

etnje dugim peščanim plažama ili prepoznatljivim crnogorskim uvalama, prepuštanje čarolijama sunca i prozračnog mora, uz mirise borova, palmi i čempresa, tragovi su lepote koju gostima daruje hotelski kompleks Rivijera u Petrovcu. Smeštena uz samu obali mora, u ambijentu netaknute prirode, Rivijera raspolaže sa 91 luksuzno i komforno opremljenom sobom – 11 jednokrevetnih, 38 dvokrevetnih soba i 42 apartmana. Kategorisana je sa četiri zvezdice. Posetiocima hotela nudi se i polupansionski smeštaj. Hotel ima 181 osnovni i 50 pomoćnih ležajeva. U sobama i apartmanima, sa čijih se terasa pruža predivan pogled na okolinu, gosti mogu koristiti telefon, Internet konekciju, room service, sef i mini bar, pratiti satelitski i kablovski televizijski program. Svi smeštajni kapaciteti Rivijere su klimatizovani. Prostrana terasa bara Kralj Nikola, smeštena u hladovini lipa i borova, idealno je mesto za odmor i opuštanje, uz gutljaje kvalitetnih pića i zvuke mediteranske muzike. U pansionskom restoranu Rivijere i a la cart restoranu Oliva, u kojima ima 160 mesta, vrhunski kulinarski majstori pripremaju jela i specijalitete domaće ili internacionalne kuhinje. INFO: Hotel Rivijera 85300 Petrovac Montenegro Telephone: +382 (0)86 422-100 Fax: +382(0)86 461-314 www.riviera-petrovac.com hotelrivijera@cg.yu

U dvorištu hotela, okružen zelenilom, nalazi se otvoren bazen. Posebno su odvojeni dečiji bazen i jakuzzi. Rivijera ima i sopstveni parking. Posetioci hotela vreme najčešće provode na delu gradske plaže koju zakupljuje Rivijera ili se sunčaju i kupaju na obližnjoj prirodnoj peščanoj plaži Lučice. Ljubitelji sportskih igara mogu koristiti tenisko igralište Rivijere, teren za odbojku – beach volley, prostor za stoni tenis ili fudbalsko igralište u blizini hotela. Za decu je osmišljen zabavni park sa drvenim rekvizitima, toboganom, kućicama, ljuljaškama, te stolovima i stolicama – svojevrsno mini igralište za goste do pet godina. O njihovoj zabavi brinu se svakodnevno animatori.

Hotelski sadržaji oplemenjeni su i brojnim izletima do Budve i Bara, koji su od Petrovca udaljeni dvadesetak kilometara. Tivatski aerodrom nalazi se 45 kilometara od te istinske oaze porodičnog odmora i nezaboravnih romantičnih trenutaka. Rivijera već tradicionalno, u vreme kada turistička sezona nije u punom jeku, gostima nudi noćenje u dvokrevetnim sobama i doručak u vrednosti od 35 evra po osobi. Ukoliko sebi priuštite jedan takav doživljaj, priuštili ste upravo to što zaslužujete – više od potrebe za lepim. VLADIMIR POČUČ

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INFO Hotel Aquamarin Potkosljun bb, Budva, Montenegro +382 (0) 86 460-269 +382 (0) 86 460-270 +382 (0) 86 460-271 www.aquamarin-hotel.com aquamarin@cg.yu

THE JEWEL OF THE BUDVA RIVIERA

ccording to legend, a mermaid once brought a sea-coloured jewel -- aquamarine -- to the water’s surface, bringing happiness and joy. The mermaid gave it to the people to enjoy its beauty. Many years later, a hotel bearing the name Aquamarine, located in the most beautiful spot in Budva, the capital of the Montenegrin Riviera, arrived to offer its guests something more than a luxurious place to vacation; the hotel gives them the scents, sounds and magic of the Adriatic. The highly-ranked hotel Aquamarin is located near Mogren stadium on Slavic Beach, the central beach in Budva. Suites with spacious terraces for day and night stays are equipped with

the Internet, which business people will find essential. The rooms are air-conditioned, each has a telephone, mini bar, cable television and a balcony. In the open restaurant Aquamarin, in addition to the sea and pine forest that will fill your lungs, you can enjoy specialties in domestic and international cuisine. Motor boat excursions to hidden coves along the seacoast, relaxing in the sauna, swimming in the hotel swimming pool or visiting the Old Town are just some of the activities the hotel organises. That the Aquamarin Hotel in Budva – in a peaceful, intimate and comfortable atmosphere that is

designed, above all, to serve its guests – has revived the old leged about happiness and joy, is confirmed in the farewell words of your hosts: “If you are satisfied, tell us privately, if you are not, let everyone know”.

DRAGOCENOST BUDVANSKE RIVIJERE

egenda kaže da je sirena na morsku obalu iznela dragi kamen boje mora – akvamarin – koji donosi sreću i radost. Poklonila ga je ljudima kako bi uživali u njegovoj lepoti. Mnogo godina kasnije, poput tog starog predanja, istoimeni hotel, smešten u najlepšem delu

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Budve, prestonice crnogorske rivijere, gostima daruje više od luksuznog mesta za odmor – mirise, zvuke i čarolije Jadrana. Hotel visoke klase Aquamarin nalazi se nadomak stadiona Mogren, na samoj Slovenskoj plaži, centralnom budvanskom kupalištu. Apartmani, sa sobama za dnevni boravak i spavanje, prostranim terasama, opremljeni su savremenim sredstvima komunikacije – Internetom, što je neophodno poslovnom svetu koji boravi u hotelu. Sobe su klimatizovane, a svaka ima telefon, mini bar, kablovsku televiziju i balkon. U bašti Aquamarina, uz mirise mora i borove šume, gosti mogu uživati u domaćim i internacionalnim kuli-

narskim specijalitetima. Obilazak skrivenih uvala duž morske obale gliserom, opuštanje u sauni ili kupanje u hotelskom bazenu i poseta Starom gradu samo su deo sadržaja koje hotel organizuje. Da je budvanski Aquamarin, u mirnom, intimnom i udobnom prostoru, u kome je sve podređeno posetiocima, oživeo staru legendu o sreći i radosti, potvrđuju i reči kojima će vas domaćini iz njega ispratiti : „Ako ste zadovoljni, kažite nama, a ako niste, slobodno recite svima.” VLADIMIR POČUČ

The Art of Seduction The purse as a fashion detail, along with shoes, represents the foundation of style. Everything else simply rounds off the completeness of the contemporary woman. The new Glam Up collection, in its basic lines and selection, follows dominant fashion trends. Black, the always present classic, red in a number of tones and fabrics, poses a challenge, pastel ochre tones, greens, yellows, oranges – they are all there to add special charm, to create the art of seduction. You simply have to choose your means. The new Autumn-Winter Collection 2008/09 is available in all retail Glam Up outlets.

THE HOTEL WITH A VIEW In the vicinity of the Petrovac town beach, in the settlement of Brezine, WGrand offers its guests in the modern interior, a view over the thick pine forests, the Lazaret Fortress and immense open sea, together with good accommodation and excellent service. The hotel has 50 rooms equipped with cable television, telephones, mini bars, safes and the wireless Internet. On the top floor of WGrand, there is a restaurant with domestic and international cuisine, a café bar, a conference hall, as well as a jacuzzi, a sauna, a gym and a massage salon. From the spacious hotel terraces, comfortable settled in the beach chairs; indulge in the seducing scents of the sea.

HOTEL S POGLEDOM Nadomak petrovačke gradske plaže, u naselju Brežine, WGrand u modernom enterijeru gostima, uz dobar smeštaj i vrhunske usluge, daruje pogled na guste borove šume, tvrđavu Lazaret i nepreglednu pučinu. Hotel ima 50 soba, koje su opremINFO ljene kablovskom televizijom, telefonom, Hotel WGrand mini barom, sefom i wireless Internetom. Brežine bb, Petrovac Na poslednjem spratu WGranda nalaze se Montenegro restoran domaće i internacionalne kuhinje, Tel.+382 33 461 703, 33 461 704 kafe bar, konferencijska sala, ali i jacuzzi, Fax. +382 33 461 705 sauna, teretana, te salon za masažu. Sa Cell +382 69 069 569 prostranih terasa hotela, udobno smešteni www.wgrandpetrovac.com u ležaljke za sunčanje, prepustite se wgrand@t-com.me zavodljivim mirisima mora.

Beograd: Terazije 28, Terazijski prolaz, Delta City, Roda Centar Zemun: Glavna 26 Novi Sad: TC Bazar, SPC Spens Niš: TC Merkator Kragujevac: Roda Centar Podgorica: Hercegovačka 24, Delta City Bar: Vladimira Rolovića 8

Umetnost zavođenja Tašna kao modni detalj, uz cipele, predstavlja osnovu stila. Sve ostalo samo zaokružuje celinu savremene žene. Nova kolekcija Glam up-a u osnovnim linijama i izboru boja prati preovlađujuće modne trendove. Crna, uvek prisutna klasika, crvena u nekoliko nijansi i materijala - kao izazov, pastelni tonovi oker, zelene, žute, narandžaste – kao deo posebnog šarma, i umetnost zavođenja je tu. Treba samo da izaberete svoj način. Nova kolekcija za jesen - zimu 2008/09. godine dostupna je u svim maloprodajnim objektima Glam up-a.

photo:Željko Sinobad

O B S E R V A T I O N

F R O M

H O L Y

M O U N T A I N

A T H O S

THE COUNTRY WHERE

TIME STANDS STILL A place under the unperceivable firmament, the Hilandar Monastery is a house which has been in everyone’s possession for centuries. It is more than just medieval stone walls, icon paintings or the relics it keeps – it is a spiritual necessity. The mother country of Serbs in diaspora. Continual serenity, where time is measured in the prayers and tears of monks in remote hermitages. In the Serbian monastery on the Holy Mountain, man approaches God and finds God in himself. And he always comes back to God….

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looked in the monastery’s direction. The greatest sanctity that Saint Sava and Simeon obtained in 1198 from Byzantine emperor Alexius III Angelos as an eternal present for the Serbs. There was a half hour before matins. I went along a path, passing the new great konak from where the light came, probably to make travel easier. Further on was just darkness. At the entrance to the monastery, whose doors were already open, I stopped for a while. The view towards stone walls, monastery parakklesions (side chapels), cells and towers, which had withstood the test of time and the onslaught of invaders for centuries, was now blocked by scaffoldings, cranes and building materials, which were a consequence of the 2004 fire, when the north-eastern half of the monastery compound was totally destroyed. Suddenly, I decided not to yet enter. I took a few steps back, towards a drinking fountain. The water was cold. I took only a few gulps from my hand. Drops went down my chin and neck. I didn’t even try to wipe myself. If I could, I would have washed my hands, and my entire body, above all my head,

where all my fears resided... The downhill path led towards a monastic graveyard. Several burial mounds, crosses dug in the ground, loomed up near a large tree. Basil flowerpots stood on a concrete fence surrounding the graveyard. On the side of a smallish graveyard church, renovated in the 19th century, was a charMONASTERY SHRINES Parts of the life-giving Cross of the Lord, saints’ and martyrs’ relics are kept in Hilandar. The valuables also include two miraculous icons of the Mother of God, Akatistna and Popska. The coffin, in which the body of Saint Simeon lied until 1207, before his relics were taken by Saint Sava to Serbia to reconcile the brothers who fought over the throne, is one of the biggest spiritual values of Hilandar. A grape wine started growing out of it on the outer side of the temple, which is another monastery miracle with healing effect for spouses without children. The monks of Hilandar believe that the blessing of the founder will watch them and the monastery as long as the holy grape wine ripens.

nel house. Not wanting to disturb the tranquillity and solemnity of the buried monks, I just peeked inside. Only a few minutes were necessary for my eyes to grow accustomed to the darkness. On ancient shelves along the walls were the skulls of monks – white lilies of Orthodoxy. Except for my hand trembling while I was bent holding the entrance door, I did not feel fear. Death, a necessary mundane transience which I otherwise feared, was simply not present there. Only an unusually pleasant smell widened my nostrils. I felt untold relief. Another irretrievable dawn was breaking at Athos. I remember the scene my eye then spotted. At a distance, on both sides of a road named the Road of Centuries along which Saint Sava, the Venerable Simeon, Serbian kings and emperors had tread, there was pristine nature. Today, monks also walk along the road barefoot... I recall a place where the icon of the Mother of God – Three Hand (Trojeručica), arrived from the Studenica monastery by God’s will, a fountain built to honour king Aleksandar Obrenović, because after he visited Hilandar monastery he

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paid off the monastery’s debt to the Bulgarians. There was the Cross of Dušan the Great, the Ruler of Serbs, Greeks and Bulgarians. It reminds one of the forbidden stay of his wife Jelena on the Holy Mountain. There is a saga that the empress did not touch the holy land at any moment during her visit because she was carried on a sedan chair. The four royal olives and King Milutin’s Tower are nearby. It appears that everything that is only a pause in time, undivided and brought to a halt on this land. Here, time is measured in prayer, monks’ tears in remote hermitages and every new atonement. And with with ever stronger faith in us, people from secular life, today, in these troubled times when faith is so necessary... THE SECRETS OF SILENCE I hurried back. The words of Jeromonk Georgije, whom I had met on the ship while travelling from Uranopolis to the House of all Serbs, came to my mind. I complained to him yesterday that I had not felt the spiritual fulfilment which I had sought. He told me with a kind but reproachful

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Monks’ living quarters in Chilandar Monastery look that I had obtained how much I was ready for and deserved. As I was thinking that his words had been too harsh, and the celestial scales unjust, and that I had enough faith, my eyes fixed on the icon of Mother of God at the monastery yard entrance. The last fire skipped the icon. I wondered how that was possible since every-

thing else was burnt. And then, rather suddenly, I realised that father Georgije was right. Once, I noted down – my heart has comprehended all of the world’s secrets... Now, I was ashamed. Faith starts where reason stops, I had read a long time ago. I crossed myself as soon as I saw the Church of the Presentation (Vavedenje) of the Virgin Mary, built at the end of 13th century by King Milutin. The sound of “klepalo”, a metal bar, at first slow and even and then faster and faster, announced a joint religious service. The light of candles and icon lamp peeked out of the temple. Although made of stones, in semi-darkness, the church emanated warmth. I passed between two cypresses, just beside an ornamental vial in which water was being blessed, near Saint Sava’s tower. Chants and prayers were already coming from inside... Quiet and enduring. Honest and repentant. I touched a doorpost of Duke Lazar’s parvis, the western entrance to Orthodox churches, with my lips. I kissed the icons of all the saints, faith heal-

On the shore of the Aegean Sea – the one-time St. Vasilius Monastery that is part of Chilandar.

ers and curers Muzman and Damjan, my patron saint’s day. I took two candles from the nearby table. While they were burning, I listed within myself the names of all the people I loved. THE HARBOUR OF SALVATION After kissing the throne icons, I stopped near the right choir. For the first time I had listened to the Byzantine chant of monks in Church-Slavonic. I shook my head indiscernibly in order to drive away thoughts. I wanted to understand a joint prayer by heart. “Forgive a sinner, forgive a sinner”, I thought the temple resounded with a cry. All my defeats, hopes, fears, sorrows and doubts were being strung up. I don’t know how long it lasted. When I opened my eyes, the monks had already been in front of the greatest sanctity – the icon of the Mother of God – Three Hand. In front of miraculous Mother of God - Three Hand, solemn, at the abbot’s

ENTRANCE TO HILANDAR Metoh Kakovo is a kind of entrance hall to Hilandar. The property that spans some 1,500 hectares, was presented to the Serbian monastery in 1585 by the Turkish pasha, whose barren wife bore him a child after eating grapes from the miraculous grape of Saint Simeon Mirotočivi. throne besides the right chant of the cathedral, which St. Sava consecrated, with his pastoral staff “patarica” and the icon of Mother of God - Three Hand, gifted to Saint Sava of Serbia during his pilgrimage throughout Palestine and Jerusalem, I inexplicably became aware of my spiritual power and faith. I crossed myself and knelt, touching the floor with my forehead. I bowed in prayer three times. I did the same in front of Saint Simeon’s statue, out of which a grapevine, the monastery’s blessing, had been growing for centuries. I stopped in front

of the altar and crossed myself once again. I felt pleasure spreading all over my body and mind... I left the cathedral in calm. In life, my children, said father Kirilo, one of the oldest monks, two things are of the greatest importance – good judgment regarding benefit and patience. Life is not like child’s play in sand. As soon as you tread on the ground of Athos, park and Mother of God’s garden – the saga says that on her way to Cyprus the ship had been grounded there, and the message from the heavens sent to her to preach the Gospel – monastic life replaces the worldly life. Therefore, the Holy Mountain is a harbour for all those people who want to be saved; it is a monastic republic, a state without a state. It is grandiose in its old-age. Solemn and beautiful. Consistent and secretive... text and photographs VLADIMIR POČUČ

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Z A P I S

S A

S V E T E

G O R E

A T O S K E

U ZEMLJI ZAUSTAVLJENOG VREMENA Mesto pod nesagledivom kapom nebeskom, Hilandar, vekovima je kuća koja pripada svima. Više je od kamenih srednjovekovnih zidina, ikonopisa i svetinja koje čuva – on je duhovna potreba. Matica, sa Srbijom u rasejanju. Neprekidno tihovanje, u kome se časovi odmeravaju molitvom i monaškim suzama po zabačenim isposnicama. U srpskom manastiru na Svetoj Gori čovek se približava Bogu i pronalazi ga u sebi. I uvek mu se vraća... photo:Željko Sinobad

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ogledao sam u pravcu manastira. Najveća svetinja koju su sveti Sava i Simeon još 1198. godine dobili od vizantijskog cara Aleksija III Anđela kao večni poklon Srbima. Ima još pola sata do početka jutrenja. Krenuo sam stazom, pored nove gostoprimnice, iz koje je dopiralo svetlo, verovatno da olakša kretanje. Nadalje je bio mrak. Na ulazu u manastirsko dvorište, čija su vrata već bila otvorena, zastao sam. Pogled na okamenjene zidine, manastirske paraklise, monaške kelije i pirgove, koji su vekovima odolevali vremenu i osvajačima, zaklanjaju skele, kranovi i građevinski materijal, posledice požara iz 2004. godine, kada je severoistočni deo Hilandara gotovo opustošen. Neću još da ulazim, odlučih iznenada. Vratio sam se par koraka unazad, do česme. Voda je hladna. Otpio sam svega nekoliko gutljaja, onako iz ruke. Kapljice su se slivale niz bradu i vrat. Nisam ni pokušao da se obrišem. Da mogu, oprao bih i ruke i celo telo, ponajpre glavu, u kojoj se rađaju svi moji strahovi... Put nizbrdo vodio je do monaškog groblja. Nadomak velikog drveta naziralo se pet-šest humki, tačnije krstača pobijenih u zemlju. Oko njih, na betonskoj ogradi, saksije bosiljka. Sa bočne strane omanje grobljanske crkve, obnovljene u 19. veku, smeštena je kosturnica. Ne želeći da ulaskom pomutim spokoj i uzvišenost upokojenih kaluđera, samo sam provirio u njenu unutrašnjost. Nekoliko minuta bilo je potrebno da mi se oči naviknu na tamu. Na drvenim policama duž zidova stajale su lobanje monaha – belih krinova pravoslavlja. Sem što mi je zadrhtala ruka, dok sam se tela povijenog pridržavao za ulazna vrata, nisam osetio strah. Smrti, koje se inače plašim, nužne ovozemaljske prolaznosti, tu naprosto nije bilo. Samo je neobično prijatan miris širio moje nozdrve. Osetih neko neizrecivo olakšanje. Nepovratno je svitala još jedna zora na Atosu. Upamtio sam sliku koju je tada zabeležilo oko. U daljini, sa obe strane puta, nazvanog Put vekova, kojim su koračali i sveti Sava i sveti Simeon Mirotočivi, srpski kraljevi i carevi, netaknuta je priroda. I danas njime monasi hodaju bosi... Prisećam se mesta na kome je voljom Božijom ikona Trojeručica iz Studenice stigla u manastir, česme podignute u čast kralja Aleksandra Obrenovića, jer je posle posete Hilandaru 1896. godine Bugarima otplatio manastirske dugove. Tu je i Krst cara Dušana Silnog, vladara Srba, Grka i Bugara. Podseća na nedozvoljen boravak njegove supruge Jelene na Svetoj Gori. Ostalo je, ipak, predanje da carica nijednog trenutka nije dotakla tlo svete zemlje, jer je nošena na nosiljci. U blizini su i četiri carske masline i pirg kralja Milutina... Sve je to, čini mi se, samo predah u vremenu, nepodeljenom i na ovoj zemlji zaustav-

HILANDARSKO PREDVORJE Metoh Kakovo je svojevrsno predvorje Hilandara. Posed, površine od oko 1.500 hektara, srpskom manastiru poklonio je 1585. godine turski paša, jer je dobio potomstvo sladeći se grožđem čudotvorne loze svetog Simeona Mirotočivog. ljenom. Ovde se časovi mere molitvom, kaluđerskim suzama po zabačenim isposnicama, svakim novim pokajanjem. I sve čvršćom verom nama, ljudima iz svetovnog života, danas u pomućenom vremenu koje živimo, tako potrebnom... TAJNE TIŠINE Požurio sam nazad. Padoše mi na pamet reči jeromonaha Georgija, koga sam upoznao na brodu dok smo od Uranopolisa plovili do kuće svih Srba. Juče sam mu se požalio da nisam osetio ono duhovno ispunjenje koje sam ovde tražio. Blago, ali prekornog pogleda, rekao mi je da sam dobio onoliko za koliko sam bio spreman i taman toliko koliko sam zaslužio. Tek što pomislih da su mu reči suviše oštre, a nebeski kantar nepravedan, da mi ne manjka vere, pogled mi se zadrža na oslikanoj ikoni Bogorodice, na ulazu u manastirsko dvorište. Poslednji požar nju je preskočio. Kako je to moguće, upitah se, sve ostalo okolo je izgorelo. U tom trenutku shvatio sam da je otac Georgije u pravu. I sam sam jednom zapisao – sve tajne sveta spozna moje srce... Sada sam se postideo pred sobom. Vera počinje tamo gde razum prestaje, davno sam čitao. Prekrstio sam se čim sam ugledao crkvu Vavedenja presvete Bogorodice, koju je podigao kralj Milutin s kraja 13. veka. Zvuk klepala, najpre spor i ujednačen, a potom sve brži, najavljivao je zajedničko bogosluženje. Kroz prozore hrama provirivala je svetlost sveća i kandila. Iako sva od kamena, u polumraku, zračila je toplinom. Prošao

MANASTIRSKE SVETINJE Na Hilandaru se čuvaju delići životvornog Krsta Gospodnjeg, mošti svetitelja i mučenika. Među dragocenostima su još dve čudotvorne ikone Bogorodice, Akatistne i Popske. Kivot, u kome je do 1207. godine počivalo telo svetog Simeona, pre nego što je njegove mošti u Srbiju preneo sveti Sava da pomiri braću zavađenu zbog prestola, jedna je od najvećih duhovnih vrednosti Hilandara. Iz njega je, na spoljašnjoj strani hrama, izrasla vinova loza, još jedno manastirsko čudo isceliteljskog dejstva za supružnike bez dece. Hilandarski monasi veruju da će blagoslov ktitora bdeti nad njima i manastirom sve dok bude rađala sveta loza.

sam između dva čempresa, tik kraj kitnjaste fijale u kojoj se osveštava voda, nadomak pirga svetog Save. Odatle se već čulo pojanje i molitva monaha... Tiha i nepresušna. Iskrena i pokajnička. Usnama sam dodirnuo dovratak na ulazu u pripratu kneza Lazara. Celivao sam na zidu ikone svetih vračeva i iscelitelja Kuzmana i Damjana, moje krsne slave. Sa obližnjeg stočića uzeo sam dve sveće. Dok su gorele, bez glasa, u sebi, nabrajao sam imena osoba koje volim. PRISTANIŠTE SPASENJA Posle celivanja prestonih ikona, stao sam u blizinu desne pevnice. Vizantijsko pojanje kaluđera, na crkvenoslovenskom, slušao sam prvi put. Neprimetno sam zadrmao glavom da odagnam misli koje su navirale. Želeo sam da razumem zajedničku molitvu srcem. Pomiluj grešnog, pomiluj grešnog, mislio sam da odzvanja hram od vapaja. Nizali su se svi moji porazi, nade, strahovi, tuge, upitanosti, sumnje... Ne znam koliko je to trajalo. Kada sam otvorio oči, monasi su već bili pred najvećom svetinjom – Trojeručicom. Neobjašnjivo, pred čudotvornom ikonom Majke Božije Trojeručice, dostojanstvene, na igumanskom prestolu kraj desne pevnice Saborne crkve, koju je od svetog Save Osvećenog, sa njegovim pastirskim štapom – pataricom i ikonom Bogorodice Mlekopitateljnice, na dar dobio sveti Sava Srpski prilikom pokloničkog putovanja po Palestini i Jerusalimu, postao sam svestan svoje duhovne snage i vere. Prekrstio sam se i kleknuo dodirujući čelom pod. Ponovio sam veliku metaniju tri puta. Isto sam uradio i pred kivotom svetog Simeona, iz kojeg već vekovima rađa loza, blagoslov manastira. Zastao sam ispred oltara, prekrstio se još jednom. Obuzela me neka milina koja se širila telom i umom... Iz sabornog hrama izašao sam miran. U životu su vam, deco moja, pričao nam je otac Kirilo, jedan od najstarijih monaha, najvažnije dve stvari – pravilno rasuđivanje, na korist, i strpljenje. Život nije poput dečije igre u pesku. Čim se dotakne tlo Atosa, perivoja i vrta presvete Bogorodice – a prema predanju na tom se mestu zbog bure nasukao njen brod na putu za Kipar, i sa nebesa stigla poruka da tu propoveda jevanđelje – svetovni način života smenjuje monaški. Zato Sveta Gora, nenametljivo udenuta između vremena i večnosti, jeste pristanište spasenja onima koji žele da se spasu, monaška republika, država bez države. Veličanstvena u svojoj vremešnosti. Odvažna i lepa. Postojana i tajanstvena... tekst i fotografije VLADIMIR POČUČ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

INVESTMENT PROPOSAL

S I E PA

Stara planina (Old Mountain) is located in eastern Serbia and forms part of the large Carpathian-Balkan mountain range. Only its smaller western part is located in Serbia. It is one of the most beautiful mountains in this region, forming a natural border between Serbia and Bulgaria.

OLD MOUNTAIN FOR NEW GUESTS

mong high mountain ranges in a preserved natural environment, Stara Planina (along with Sara, Tara, Prokletije and Kopaonik) is one of the most valuable tourist regions in Serbia. It belongs to the highest category of natural resources, as defined by national legislation, and has been designated a national park. The outstanding natural potential of the region (preserved nature, Lake Zavojska, diverse flora and fauna) is rounded off with historical monuments (ethno-villages, Temska Monastery, Gamzigrad etc.) and spas in Nis and Sokobanja. It is 70 kilometres away from Nis, 100 kilometres from Zajecar and 50 kilometres from Knjazevac or

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Pirot, whose municipalities share the most attractive part of the mountain, while it awaits residents of Serbia’s capital at a distance of 330 kilometres. The village of Kalna, 20 kilometres away, is the nearest inhabited town from the tourist centre, while the nearest airport is in Nis, only 70 kilometres away. Babin Zub (Granny’s Tooth) is one of Stara Planina’s tallest and most distinct peaks, at 1,780 metres above sea level, while the highest peak is Midzor, 2,169 metres above sea level. A UNIQUE POTENTIAL Stara Planina is under snow for almost five months during the year at an altitutde between

1,100 and 1,900 metres. It represents outstanding potential for building long ski paths for Alpine skiing, and there are numerous suitable locations for accommodation capacities at the foot of the mountain. Besides excellent opportunities for Nordic skiing, hunting, fishing and summer recreation, the tourist potential of this mountain is completed with villages located at its foot, healthy food and ecological consciousness that enables the development of different activities, such as agriculture, homemade work and crafts. The main aim and prospect in developing yearround mountain tourism at Jabucko Ravniste is to carry out the first innovative tourism project, which

will commercialise and affirm Serbia as a tourist destination at the international level. Management and marketing of the tourist industry must be improved, and local income and employment must be increased by initiating economic development of Stara Planina and the surrounding area. In accordance with an official strategy to develop the region’s tourism offer, the Programme for the Development of Mountain Tourism in the Region of Stara Planina, specific development measures have been planned. The first and most important is a large initial investment in infrastructure and the tourism offer. It consists, among other things, of building the first part of an integrated ski system on the mountain, a component part of public infrastructure, whose construction will be carried out by the Public Company “Skiing Resorts of Serbia”. That phase is in progress. The Programme includes the development of a basic tourist complex on Jabucko Ravniste, which offers accommodation, tourist infrastructure and other services. The plan anticipates building capacities for more than 5,000 guests in the first phase over the next three years. The tourist zone has the same importance for this mountain as

industrial zones in other locations. Within the first phase, investment of 154,000 euros into hotels, restaurants, recreation and entertainment facilities is anticipated, 50 million euros into ski centres and 30 million euros into communal infrastructure. A public invitation for participating in the tender for the choice of co-investor for joint construction and management of the resort “Jabucko ravniste” (the first phase) in Stara Planina was published on September 16 in the magazines Politika, The Financial Times, and on September 19 in the British magazine The Economist. Serbia intends to build its first year-round mountain resort – “Jabucko Ravniste” on Stara Planina – that will be competitive at the international level on the basis of a Master Plan adopted by the national government, while construction will be carried out on public property. THE EFFECTS OF THE INVESTMENT The effects of the investment are direct and indirect. The direct effects, above all, include the ownership that Serbia will gain as a certain percentage from Greenfield investments, and the income Serbia will receive during exploitation.

The indirect effects include employing people within these facilities. The employment process is planned to begin at the investment phase, when a large number of builders and transportation workers will be engaged in preparing to accomplish that process. As far as facilities operation is concerned, it is estimated that in the first phase about 600 people will be employed. Of course, it is necessary to bear in mind the tax effects the state will earn from that project. In addition, the circulation of people and other economic activities aside from tourism will be increased, leading to general economic and social revival in one of the most neglected regions in Serbia. The indirect, although very important effect should be the improvement of the image of Serbia as a tourist destination. With such a modern project, Serbia has the chance to offer a completely new and unforgettable place for vacation, which is separate from Belgrade, unique in its quality, marking an elite place on the tourist map of Europe. BELGUEST

P R E D L O G

Z A

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STARA PLANINA ZA NOVE GOSTE SIEPA

eđu prirodno očuvanim masivima visokih planinskih venaca Stara planina, pored Šare, Tare, Prokletija i Kopaonika, predstavlja jednu od najdragocenijih turističkih oblasti u Srbiji. Ona je u prvoj kategoriji prirodnih bogatstava i proglašena je za nacionalni park. Izuzetni prirodni potencijal tog regiona (očuvana priroda, Zavojsko jezero, raznovrsna flora i fauna) dopunjen je istorijskim spomenicima (etno-sela, manastir Temska, Gamzigrad i drugi), te banjskim objektima u Niškoj Banji, Sokobanji... Udaljena je 70 km od Niša, 100 km od Zaječara

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Stara planina se nalazi u istočnoj Srbiji i predstavlja deo prostranog planinskog venca karpatsko-balkanskog planinskog luka. Srbijom se proteže samo njegov manji zapadni deo. Najveća i jedna od najlepših planina na ovim prostorima, ona je ujedno prirodna granica prema Bugarskoj. i 50 km od Knjaževca ili Pirota (čijim opštinama pripada najvrednijim delom), a od Beograda se nalazi na 330. kilometru. Najbliže naseljeno mesto turističkom centru je selo Kalna, udaljeno 20 km, dok je najbliži aerodrom u Nišu, na svega 70 kilometara. Babin zub je jedan od vrhova Stare planine, na nadmorskoj visini od 1.780 metara, dok je najviši vrh Midžor na 2.169 metara nadmorske visine.. JEDINSTVENI POTENCIJAL Stara planina je skoro pet meseci pod snegom, na visini između 1.100 i 1.900 metara. Ta odlika pred-

stavlja izuzetan potencijal za izgradnju dugih staza za alpsko skijanje, a postoje i pogodna mesta za izgradnju smeštajnih kapaciteta u podnožju. Pored velikih pogodnosti za nordijsko skijanje, lov, ribolov i letnju rekreaciju, turistički potencijal ove planine dopunjavaju sela u njenom podnožju, zdrava hrana i ekološka energija, koja omogućava razvoj dopunskih delatnosti, kao što su poljoprivreda, domaća radinost, zanati. Glavni cilj i interes u razvoju celogodišnjeg planinskog turizma na lokaciji Jabučko ravnište jeste da se izvede prvi inovativni turistički projekat, koji

će se internacionalno komercijalizovati i afirmisati Srbiju kao turističku destinaciju. Potrebno je podići upravljački i marketinški kapacitet u turističkoj industriji, unaprediti lokalni dohodak i zapošljavanje i time pokrenuti privredni razvoj šireg prostora Stare planine U skladu sa Programom razvoja planinskog turizma na području Stare planine, predviđene su faze razvoja tog turističkog područja. Prva je najzahtevnija, povezana sa najvećim inicijalnim ulaganjima u infrastrukturu i sadržaje turističke ponude. Nju čini, između ostalog, izgradnja jednog dela integralnog skijaškog sistema na planini, kao sastavnog dela javne infrastrukture, za čije je izvođenje zaduženo Javno preduzeće „Skijališta Srbije”. Ta faza je u toku. Deo tog programa je i razvoj baznog turističkog kompleksa na Jabučkom ravništu, koji sadrži smeštajnu ponudu, ponudu turističke infrastrukture i ostalu uslužnu ponudu. Plan je da se u prvoj fazi u naredne tri godine izgrade kapaciteti za više od 5.000 gostiju, a za ovu planinu turistička zona znači isto što i industrijska zona za druge lokalitete. U prvoj fazi predviđena su ulaganja od 154.000.000 evra u ugostiteljske, rekreativne i objekte za zabavu, pedeset miliona u skijališta i trideset miliona

SIEPA Serbian Investment and Export Promotion Agency Vlajkovićeva 3/V, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Tel. +381 11 3398 550 Fax. +381 11 3398 814 www.siepa.sr.gov.yu office@siepa.sr.gov.yu evra u komunalnu infrastrukturu. Javni poziv za učešće na tenderu za izbor suinvestitora radi zajedničke izgradnje i jedinstvenog upravljanja mestom za odmor „Jabučko ravnište“ (prva faza) na Staroj planini objavljen je 16. septembra u listovima Politika i Fajnenšel tajms i 19. septembra u britanskom Ekonomistu. Srbija ima nameru da izgradi prvo internacionalno konkurentno, celogodišnje planinsko mesto za odmor „Jabučko ravnište“ na Staroj planini na bazi usvojenog Master plana, a gradiće se na zemljištu u državnoj svojini. EFEKTI ULAGANJA Efekti ulaganja su direktni i indirektni. U direktne efekte, pre svega, ubrajamo vlasništvo koje će Srbija steći u određenom procentu na novoizgrađenim

objektima i, naravno, prihode koje će ta imovina donositi tokom eksploatacije. U indirektne efekte svrstavamo, pre svega, zapošljavanje ljudi u tim kapacitetima. Pri tom je potrebno imati na umu da će zapošljavanje započeti već u investicionoj fazi, kada će veliki broj građevinskih radnika, ali i isporučilaca opreme i građevinskog materijala u industriji biti uposlen na pripremi ostvarivanja tog projekta. Što se tiče samog objekta, procena je da će u prvoj fazi biti zaposleno oko 600 ljudi. Treba, naravno, imati na umu i poreske efekte koje će država ostvariti na tom projektu. Pored toga, biće povećan promet ljudi, promet drugih privrednih delatnosti van turizma, što će doprineti opštem ekonomskom i socijalnom oživljavanju jednog od najnerazvijenijih područja u Srbiji. Posredan, ali veoma važan efekat treba da bude i poboljšanje imidža Srbije kao turističke destinacije. Sa takvim savremenim projektom Srbija ima šansu da na turističkoj mapi Evrope, pored Beograda, koji je za sada jedini u tom rangu, zauzme elitno mesto i ponudi odmor kakav u našoj zemlji još ne postoji. BELGUEST fotografije: DRAGAN BOSNIĆ

THE JEWELLERY FOR EUROPE

n the region of today’s Central and Southeastern Europe, there are not many modern and successful companies that developed out of the tradition of crafting precious metals, which had been handed down and cultivated for a long time. The history of jewelry art, which Zlatarna Celje as a big and prosperous company inherited, began in the 15th century. At that time, as a result of various historical circumstances, goldsmiths from all over Europe met in Celje and founded the tradition that has been carried on to this day. They are also the founders of the high art of handicraft, creating beauty in jewelry, since at that time Celje jewelry was highly appreciated, recognisable and in demand all over Europe. Based on accumulated knowledge and skills, the first jewelry factory in Štajerska was established in 1984. Zlatarna Celje is that factory’s successor and has existed since 1950 under that name. That long history arouses respect and bears witness to constant improvement and growth. For people from the former Yugoslav republics, Zlatarna Celje has always been a synonym of proven quality and sophisticated design.

RESPECTED BRAND In its recent business history, Zlatarna Celje hsa had two main branches of development. As a company that became a well-known brand in the former Yugoslav, the company strove to keep its position in the face of changing circumstances. In addition to retail outlets in Slovenia, Zlatarna Celje’s home country, the company has a retail network in all of the countries that sprang from the former Yugoslav republics: Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia and Montenegro. Building on the respect it enjoyed in the Yugoslav era, Celje jewelry is in demand in all the countries that once comprised the Yugoslav republics. The fact that Slovenian, Serbian and Croatian misses wore crowns and tiaras designed by Zlatarna Celje is an evidence of a rooted tradition and confidence in the highest handicraft skills of Slovenian goldsmiths. The company has started to open shops in Eastern Europe as well. So far, shops have been established in Moscow and Minsk, the capital of Belarus, with more certainly on the way. THE EUROPEAN LENCIA While Zlatarna Celje has succeed in retaining its high rank in the countries of the former Yugoslavia, the company has concurrently developed a strategy for Western Europe, where Zlatarna Celje currently holds a leading position in jewelry crafting. In Western Europe, the company sells its products under the brand name Lencia, which offers jewelry and luxurious watches. Search the Internet site, under the “collection” menu to find an abundance of jewelry of all kind and design: earrings, rings, necklaces, tie slides, cuff links. The “diamond” menu presents various kinds of jewelry decorated with precious stones such as diamonds, emeralds, ruboes, aquamarines, garnets, coral, pearls.. Certain collections have variations of white gold, yellow gold and silver. Zlatarna offers an impressive range of products made of precious metals, diamonds and semiprecious stones, and has successfully organised its business on both domestic and foreign markets. Zlatarna is founded on the long history of duration, premium handicraft, reliability and modern business models. www.zlatarnacelje.si

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

NAKIT ZA EVROPU

a prostoru današnje centralne i jugoistočne Evrope nema mnogo modernih i uspešnih firmi koje su se razvile iz dugo prenošene i negovane zanatske tradicije obrade plemenitih metala. Istorija juvelirske umetnosti, koju danas kao velika i prosperitetna kompanija baštini Zlatarne Celje, započela je još u 15. veku. U Celju su se u to vreme, spletom različitih istorijskih okolnosti, obreli majstori zlatari iz čitave Evrope i postali utemeljivači tradicije koja traje do današnjih dana. Oni su, takođe, i rodonačelnici visokog umeća izrade i lepote nakita, jer je još u to doba nakit iz Celja bio visokocenjen, prepoznatljiv i tražen širom Evrope. Iznikla iz tog akumuliranog znanja i umeća, 1844. godine utemeljena je Prva štajerska draguljarska tovarna. Zlatarna Celje je naslednik te fabrike i pod današnjim imenom postoji od 1950. godine. Ta duga istorija sama po sebi izaziva poštovanje i svedoči o neprestanom usavršavanju i rastu. Za ljude sa prostora nekadašnje Jugoslavije Zlatarna Celje je bila i ostala sinonim za proveren kvalitet i sofisticiran dizajn. POŠTOVANI BREND U skorijoj istoriji poslovanja Zlatarne Celje vide se dva osnovna razvojna toka. Kao kompanija koja je izgradila ime na tlu bivše Jugoslavije, nastojala je da, uprkos izmenjenim okolnostima, sačuva svoje pozicije. Zlatarna Celje danas, pored matične Slovenije, ima razvijenu sopstvenu prodajnu mrežu u svim nekadašnjim jugoslovenskim republikama: Hrvatskoj, Srbiji, Bosni i Hercegovini, Makedoniji i Crnoj Gori. Poštovan kao brend, celjski nakit je tražen na svim prostorima stare države. O ukorenjenosti i poverenju u vrhunsku izradu i umeće slovenačkih zlatara govori zanimljiv podatak da su lepotice iz Slovenije, Srbije i Hrvatske nosile krune i tijare koje su oblikovane u Zlatarni. Kompanija je počela da otvara svoje radnje i na istoku Evrope. Za sada su to prodavnice u Moskvi i glavnom gradu Belorusije Minsku.

EVROPSKA LENCIA Zlatarna Celje uspešno je zadržala svoje mesto na prostorima stare Jugoslavije i istovremeno razvila strategiju za Zapadnu Evropi, u kojoj danas zauzima jedno od vodećih mesta u proizvodnji nakita. U zemljama Zapadne Evrope ona sa svojim proizvodima nastupa pod imenom Lencia. Brend Lencia obuhvata nakit i luksuzne satove. Ako pogledamo Internet sajt, u meniju kolekcije, naići ćemo na obilje nakita svih vrsta i dizajna: od naušnica, prstenja i ogrlica, do igli za kravate i dugmadi za manžetne. U meniju drago kamenje možemo birati varijacije nakita ukrašenog dijamantima, smaragdom, rubinom, akvamarinom, granatom, koralom, biserom... Pojedine kolekcije postoje u varijaciji žutog i belog zlata ili srebra. Raspon proizvoda od plemenitih metala i dragog i poludragog kamena koji nudi Zlatarna više je nego impozantan i govori o kompaniji koja je uspešno osmislila svoje nastupe na starim i novim tržištima, utemeljena na dugoj istoriji trajanja, vrhunskoj ručnoj izradi, pouzdanosti i savremenim modelima poslovanja. www.zlatarnacelje.si PRODAJNA MESTA U SRBIJI Beograd, MC, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 011/ 311 69 90 Terazije 35, tel. 011/ 3234 650 Čačak, MC, Braće Spasić bb, tel. 032/ 37 09 30 Jagodina, Kneginje Milice 80/6, tel. 035/ 24 58 42 Kragujevac, Kralja Aleksandra I br.63, tel. 034/ 30 16 05 MC, Save Kovačevića 48/a, tel.034/500-255 Kraljevo, Miloša Velikog 21, tel. 036/ 32 21 30 Niš, MC, Vizantijski bulevar bb, tel. 018/204 212 Novi Sad, Železnička 33, tel. 021/ 52 60 48 MC, Bulevar oslobođenja 102, tel.021/6742 800 Pančevo, Njegoševa 4, tel. 013/ 33 39 93 Subotica,Trg slobode 1, tel. 024/ 55 68 24 Smederevo, Trg republike 8, tel. 026/ 64 33 00 Šabac, Gospodar Jevremova 38, tel. 015/ 30 47 70 Zrenjanin, Kralja Aleksandra I Karđorđevića 28, tel. 023/51 09 65

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

BUSINESS

CLUB

POSLOVNI

KLUB

MAESTRO JEWELERS

The prestige Belgrade jewelry store Maestro Jewelers, famous for its excellent choice of exclusive jewelry and watches, this autumn, as in past years, offers the newest jewelry collections. Along with this year’s collection from its home office IDC – Israel Diamond Center – Maestro Jewelers has singled out from its abundant assortment of top quality world jewelry brands the newest Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie Collection. Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, personally designed the collection. At the same time, she is the director of design and her creative ideas are considered the main driving force of the globally successful company. This talented woman keeps globetrotting in search of inspiration, and when she finds it, the result is new and original drafts and sketches of priceless jewelry. Because she is the magic woman of design for whom the diamond represents the incarnation of beauty, purity, brilliance, mysteriousness and magic. In this year’s collection, Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele has applied all possible forms of cutting diamonds and including them in various sorts of jewelry: rings, earrings, bracelets, hair adornments. Applying the different forms and incorporating diamonds in the various sorts of jewelry, she has presented the most precious stone, the diamond, in its widest spectrum. In addition, her collection wisely presents a nuance of reserved and non-intrusive elegance. This year’s Haute Joaillerie Collection bearing the sign of Chopard’s General Designer can be worn as easily with evening dresses as with simple pullovers and blouses. Distinguished by a understated charm, Chopard’s unique universe of luxury enables women the freedom to wear their jewelry on all occasions.

Prestižna beogradska juvelirnica Maestro Jewelers, poznata po izvanrednom izboru ekskluzivnog nakita i satova, i ove jeseni nudi tek lansirane kolekcije nakita. ored ovogodišnje kolekcije matične kuće IDC – Izraelskog dijamantskog centra, Maestro Jewelers iz svog zavidnog asortimana poznatih svetskih brendova vrhunskog nakita izdvaja najnoviju Chopardovu Haute Joaillerie Collection. Tu kolekciju dizajnirala je lično Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele, kopredsednica Choparda. Ona je istovremeno direktorka za dizajn, a njene kreativne ideje smatraju se glavnom pogonskom silom te planetarno uspešne kompanije. Ta talentovana žena neumorno putuje svetom u potrazi za inspiracijom, koju, kada je nađe, unosi u nacrte i skice basnoslovnog nakita. Za nju, čarobnicu dizajna, dijamant predstavlja otelotvorenje lepote, čistote, blistavosti, tajanstvenosti i magije. U ovogodišnjoj kolekciji Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele primenjuje sve moguće oblike sečenja dijamanata i ugrađuje ih u najrazličitije vrste nakita: prstenje, naušnice, ogrlice, narukvice, ukrase za kosu. Primenjujući spektre različitog oblikovanje i ugrađujući dijamante u najrazličitije vrste nakita, ona je najdragoceniji kamen predstavila u maksimalnom rasponu mogućnosti. Takođe, njena kolekcija promišljeno promoviše notu uzdržane i nenametljive elegancije. Ovogodišnja Haute Joaillerie Collection s potpisom glavne Chopardove dizajnerke žene mogu nositi podjednako i uz večernje haljine i uz jednostavne džempere i bluzice. Chopardov svojevrsni univerzum luksuza svojom nenametljivošću daje ženama slobodu da taj nakit nose u svim prilikama.

CHOPARD , THE UNIVERSE OF LUXURY

CHOPARD, UNIVERZUM LUKSUZA

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S&L MONTE RECOMMENDS – CARTIER

ONE PLANET IN A GALAXY OF TIME BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER Created in 2007, the Ballon blue de Cartier isn’t quite round. Complex in shape, with a winding mechanism decorated with a sapphire cabochon around which the dial orbits, it is protected by an arch in precious metal. With soft curves reminiscent of a pebble and a case rounded on both sides, its style is somewhere between classic and futuristic. Roman numerals, displaced by the winding mechanism, stray from their usual path. The guilloche dial, sword-shaped hands, links of solid gold or steel for bracelets; at first glance, the latest model from the House of Cartier joins Cartier’s horology in the galaxy of time. THE SANTOS 100 - FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT The world was speeding up and so was time with it. In 1904 Louis Cartier made a major breakthrough in the watch-making world by creating one of the first ever wristwatches. It was made for a man, the aviator SantosDumont, who wanted to see the time without having to let go of the controls of his flying machine. And that was how, from the original pocket watch that was only taken out when needed, the watch became an accessory visible to everyone; displayed on the wrist, a jewel that is the result of thorough research. With its visible screws, raised bezel and ridged bracelet, the Santos watch is a truly masculine timepiece, totally in tune with an era when signatures were flaunted as status symbols. INFO S&L MONTE, Ulica slobode 31 Podgorica (+382 20 665 400)

SANTOS 100

BALLON BLUE

S&L MONTE PREPORUČUJE - CARTIER

NEZAOBILAZNA PLANETA U GALAKSIJI VREMENA BALLON BLUE DE CARTIER Napravljen je 2007. godine i nije sasvim okruglog oblika. Složenog dizajna, sa mehanizmom na navijanje, ukrašen nebrušenim safirom oko koga orbitira brojčanik, zaštićen je lukom od plemenitog metala. Blagim linijama koje podsećaju na oblutak, kućište je zaobljeno sa obe strane u stilu koji je negde između klasike i futurizma. Rimski brojevi, zamenjeni mehanizmom na navijanje, skreću sa svoje uobičajene putanje. Brojčanik je ugraviran, kazaljke su u obliku mača, a narukvica od čistog zlata ili čelika. Već na prvi pogled najnoviji model kuće Cartier pridružuje se Cartierovoj horologiji u galaksiji vremena. SANTOS 100 – SLOBODA POKRETA Život je postajao sve brži, samim tim i vreme. Godine 1904. Luis Kartije napravio je ogroman pomak u proizvodnji satova dizajnirajući jedan od prvih ručnih satova. Napravljen je posebno za jednog čoveka, pilota Santos –Dumonta, koji je želeo da zna koliko je sati a da ne mora da se odvoji od kontrolne table svoje letelice. Na taj način, od nekadašnjeg džepnog sata, koji je korišćen samo kada je to bilo neophodno, sat je postao modni detalj, dostupan svačijem pogledu, izložen na ručnom zglobu, deo nakita koji je nastao kao rezultat temeljnog istraživanja. Sa svojim vidljivim zavrtnjem, ispupčenim okvirom i čvrstom narukvicom, Santos sat je pravi muški sat, potpuno u skladu s vremenom kada su potpisi važili za statusne simbole.

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL BELGRADE

REPUTATION AND DEVELOPMENT Since 1997, when it was first set up, the British International School in Belgrade has travelled a long way. Simultaneously building on its reputation and developing its capacities, it has already seen off eleven generations of secondary school graduates who are now studying at universities all over the world. Many of these young people have already graduated from international and domestic universities and have entered the international labour market in their capacity as lawyers, managers, scientists, artists...

e spoke with the Director of the British International School (BIS), Aleksandra Keserović, about the fact that there are very few schools that may be counted among the certified international education network and the fact that this institution has achieved a reputation as a prestigious and qualitative school in a very short period of time. - We established the school during a period of time when there were no secondary schools based on the English language in Belgrade that could provide education for children of diplomatic corps as well as for our own children interested in attending universities all over the world. The British International School works according to the standards of the British Department for Children, Families and Schools and it has a Cambridge University’s licence, says Miss Keserović. The school began as the International High School Belgrade, but in 2003 it was renamed in the British International School comprising a Primary School and the Reception Class. About 150 pupils, from 4 to 19 years old, attend the British International School today. During its development, the school changed its address, and this summer it moved to the new premises, perfect for all kinds of classes and comprising modern equipment. The British International School now has a big gym and multi-purpose hall, three computer rooms as well as a spacious laboratory for natural sciences. The school is encircled by an outdoor play area for recreation.

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

- The conviction that we were going to succeed, as well as a love for the job held us at the most difficult moments. During the NATO bombing, we moved to the school in Budapest, but that period belongs to the past. We were lucky enough to find this beautiful place and to equip it in keeping with modern education. Our classes are small, comprising 15 students at the most and for every child there is an individual work plan. The classes are interactive and based on results. We implement a tutorial system. We devote ourselves to our students. We do not only praise their school achievements, but also cultivate and encourage their various talents. The British International School was considered an ex-territorial British school and it is the only operator in the Balkans for the International Award for Young People initiated by His Royal Highness Duke of Edinburgh. - This International Award for Young People is based on the idea that the young have to acquire various skills and achieve considerable success. For example, in order for a student to get the award, he has to prove that he is able to survive in the nature, to know how to make a tent or camp fire... Bronze and silver medals are awarded in Serbia and our students have been awarded at the White Palace so far. The golden medal, for which we have a candidate this year, is being awarded at Buckingham Palace, with the presence of Prince Philip. The Director of the British International School is proud of the fact that her students have been awarded with such a high acknowledgements, as well as of the exhibition of hieroglyphs prepared by the primary school students, the Brazilian skill of capoeira or the Maya skill of 3D modelling, being practised by the secondary school students. - Behind our success and the fact that our degree is acknowledged in 175 countries, there is a team of devoted and qualified British and domestic teachers. We consider it a success that two of our students have enrolled at Oxford and Berkeley, concludes the Director of the British International School, Aleksandra Keserović. www.british-int-school.org.uk BELGUEST

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL BELGRADE

REPUTACIJA I RAZVOJ Od 1997. godine, kada je osnovana, do danas, beogradska British International School prešla je veliki put. Paralelno gradeći reputaciju i proširujući svoje kapacitete, ispratila je već jedanaest generacija maturanata koji su danas upisani na fakultete širom sveta. Mnogi od tih mladih ljudi već su diplomirali na međunarodnim i domaćim fakultetima i stupili na međunarodno tržište rada kao advokati, menadžeri, naučnici, umetnici...

ovod za razgovor sa direktorkom BIS Aleksandrom Keserović jeste činjenica da u Beogradu nema mnogo škola koje su deo sertifikovane međunarodne obrazovne mreže, i da je ta obrazovna institucija za relativno kratko vreme uspela da se predstavi kao prestižna i kvalitetna škola. - Osnovali smo školu u trenutku kada u Beogradu nije bilo srednjoškolskih obrazovnih institucija na engleskom jeziku, svesni potrebe školovanja dece diplomata i stranih poslovnih ljudi, te naše dece koja žele da imaju prohodnost na univerzitete širom sveta. BIS je škola koja radi po standardima Britanskog ministarstva prosvete (British Department for Children, Families and Schools), i ima licencu Univeziteta u Kembridžu, kaže na početku razgovora gospođa Keserović. Škola je počela da radi kao International High School Belgrade, da bi 2003. godine promenila naziv u British International School prerasla u školu koja ima i osnovno obrazovanje i pripremna odeljenja. Danas BIS pohađa oko 150 đaka uzrasta od 4 do 18 godina. Šireći se, BIS je menjala adrese, a ovog leta se preselila u novi kompleks, idealan za sve sadržaje nastave i dodatno ga opremila savremenim nastavnim sredstvima. BIS na novoj adresi ima salu za fiskulturu i druge namene, tri kompjuterske laboratorije i prostranu laboratoriju za prirodne nauke. Oko škole se nalazi vrt za odmor, igru i druženje. - Uverenje da ćemo uspeti i ljubav prema poslu održala nas je i u

najtežim trenucima. Za vreme bombardovanja Natoa preselili smo školu u Budimpeštu, ali to vreme je za nama. Imali smo sreću da nađemo ovaj lep prostor i opremimo ga po meri moderne nastave. Naša odeljenja su mala, imaju najviše do petnaest učenika i za svako dete postoji individualni plan rada. Nastava se zasniva na ishodu, časovi su interaktivni i praktikujemo mentorski rad sa decom. Predano se bavimo našim đacima ne samo njihovim postignućima u nastav već negujemo i podstičemo njihove različite talente. British International School tretirana je kao eksteritorijalna britanska škola i jedina je internacionalna škola na Balkanu koja je u programu Međunarodne nagrade za mlade pod pokroviteljstvom Njegove ekselencije vojvode od Edinburga. - Koncept te nagrade zasnovan je na ideji da mladi ljudi moraju da se obuče u raznim veštinama i postignu zavidan uspeh. Na primer, da bi đak osvojio medalju, mora pokazati da je kadar da opstane u prirodi umeće da postavi šator, pravi logorsku vatru… Bronzana i srebrna medalja dodeljuju se u Srbiji i do sada su naši učenici imali svečane dodele u Belom dvoru. Zlatna medalja, za koju ove godine imamo kandidovanog jednog učenika, dodeljuje se u Bakingamskoj palati, uz prisustvo princa Filipa. Direktorka BIS ponosna je što su njeni đaci odlikovani tim visokim priznanjem, ali dodaje da je podjednako ponosna i na izložbu s temom hijeroglifa, koju su priredili osnovci, na učenje veštine brazilske kapuera ili veštine i kreativnosti 3D Maja modelovanja, koje savladavaju učenici srednje škole. - Iza naše uspešne priče i činjenice da se naša diploma priznaje u 175 zemalja sveta stoji tim od posvećenih i kvalifikovanih britanskih učitelja i britanskih i domaćih profesora. Smatramo uspehom što su se dva naša učenika upisala na Oksford i Berkli, kaže za kraj našeg razgovora direktorka BIS Aleksandra Keserović. www.british-int-school.org.uk BELGUEST

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

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HOTEL N

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HOTEL N

HALLMARK

ZNAK KVALITETA

hree-star hotels attract the largest number of guests across the world and realise the largest profit. In accordance with international trends, even businessmen who can afford more expensive hotels choose cheaper accommodation to show their modesty and frugality. Belgrade lacks just such hotels – those with reasonable prices and good service. Constantly improving its competitiveness, Hotel N in early October presented its new Quality Management System (QMS) and the implementation of HACCP System of Food Protection. Hotel N is one of the first middle-class domestic hotels that realised the need and importance of implementing the Quality Management System and HACCP System of Food Protection for business prospects. In cooperation with the BAS programme for Serbia (Advisory Services Programme), founded by the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development, and consultant companies Consact and Sqr Image, the management of Hotel N, after completing work that lasted several months, announced the news of its successful accomplishment. Explaining the steps leading to the implementation of the Quality Management System and Food Protection System, the manager of Hotel N, Mr. Milojko Rabasović, thanked all the collaborators on the project, as well as his employees who set about working on the management changes highly motivated. Those changes, not noticeable at first, have resulted in high service quality and guest satisfaction. Hotel N expects that its hallmark will be recognised in public and that it will set an example for other hotels in Serbia to implement standardised business protocols.

svetu hoteli sa tri zvezdice privlače najveći broj gostiju i donose najveći profit. U skladu sa svetskim trendom, čak i poslovni ljudi koji mogu da plate skuplje hotele odlučuju se za jeftiniji smeštaj kako bi pokazali da su skromni i da umeju da štede. Našem gradu upravo nedostaju takvi hoteli - umerenih cena i dobre usluge. Stalno radeći na poboljšanju svoje konkurentnosti, Hotel N je početkom oktobra javnosti prezentovao svoj novi sitem upravljanja kvalitetom (QMS) i primenu principa upravljanja bezbednošću hrane (HACCP). Hotel N je jedan od prvih domaćih hotela srednje klase koji je shvatio potrebu i značaj uvođenja sistema menadžmenta kvaliteta i HACCP sistema bezbednosti hrane za perspektivu poslovanja. U saradnji sa BAS programom za Srbiju (Program pružanja savetodavnih usluga), koji je utemeljila Evropska banka za obnovu i razvoj, konsutantskim kućama Consact i Sqr Imageom, menadžment Hotela N je, posle višemesečnog rada, izašao u javnost sa vešću da je ovaj posao uspešno završio. Prezentujući korake koji su vodili do uvođenja sistema upravljanja kvatitetom i sistema upravljanja bezbednošću hrane, upravnik Hotela N gospodin Milojko Rabasović zahvalio je svim spoljnim učesnicima u projektu, ali i svojim zaposlenima, koji su sa visokom motivacijom pristupili promenama u poslovanju, koje su, na prvi pogled, nevidljive, ali koje kao krajnji rezultat imaju visok kvatite usluge i zadovoljstvo gosta. Hotel N očekuje da će njegov znak kvaliteta biti prepoznat u javnosti i da će služiti kao primer drugim hotelima u Srbiji, koje tek čeka rad na uvođenju standardizovanih protokola poslovanja. BELGUEST

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

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31ST INTERNATIONAL FAIR OF TOURISM (IFT)

31. MEĐUNARODNI SAJAM TURIZMA

The 31st International Fair of Tourism (IFT) will be organised under the dome of the Belgrade Fair from February 26 to March 1 in all available presentation areas.

Pod kupolama Beogradskog sajma ovih dana se obavljaju pripreme za naredni, 31. međunarodni sajam turizma, koji će biti organizovan od 26. februara do 1. marta u svim raspoloživim sajamskim izlagačkim prostorima

CAPITAL OF TOURISM

he International Fair of Tourism, a member of the International Tourism Trade Fairs Association (ITTFA) that gathers leading tourism fairs in the world, will this year once again organise the Belgrade Fair in early spring, because the rescheduling undertaken for the first time last year in order to synchronise the Belgrade Fair with other world tourism fairs had positive results. Largely due to the IFT, leading travel agencies last year sold out all summer travel arrangements much earlier than in previous years, and the new fair term enabled many visitors to plan their summer vacation on time. The IFT 2008 will span a gross area of 15,000 square metres in halls 1, 2, 3, 5 and 14, as well as in the open-air area. More than 800 domestic and international exhibitors will take part, including tourism organisations, large travel agencies, hotels, banks, insurance companies and booking systems. The biggest domestic and international travel agencies, hotel chains and insurance companies will have their presentations in Hall 1. In Hall 2, apart from large tour operators, specialised media and the most important educational tourism institutions, schools and universities will be presented. Hall 3 is reserved for restaurant and hotel keeping, while Montenegro, with all its tourism potential and capacities, will occupy Hall 5. As in previous years, domestic tourist destinations within Serbia – tourism organisations, ministries, tourism associations, mountain and spa tourism – will show in hall 14. All of Serbia’s biggest travel agencies, hotel chains, and tourist destinations have already reserved a place for their stands. Therefore, we can expect the largest ever International Fair of Tourism. Agencies will provide fair discounts for early payment of travel arrangements, as in previous years, and organisers have also announced other conveniences. Prize contests will also be organised for visitors. The IFT will be followed by related events under the Belgrade Fair dome, as well as in different places all over the city. This year’s guest of honour will be the region of Istria (Istra, Croatia), whose presentation last year was delayed due to certain circumstances. Istria’s presentation will be more comprehensive than was planned for last year, spanning an area of more than 100 square metres. The tourism organisation of that region prepared a rich presentation with tourism arrangements, providing special conveniences for Serbian tourists and fair visitors.

PRESTONICA TURIZMA

eđunarodni sajam turizma – član Svetske asocijacije sajmova turizma (ITTFA), koja okuplja vodeće sajmove turizma u svetu, i naredne godine biće organizovan u ranom prolećnom terminu, jer se prilagođavanje termina ostalim sajmovima turizma u svetu prošle godine pokazalo kao veoma dobar potez. Zahvaljujući umnogome sajmu turizma, vodeće turističke agencije rasprodale su prošle godine svoje letnje aranžmane znatno ranije nego prethodnih godina, a novi termin sajma omogućio je brojnim posetiocima da planiraju svoje letovanje na vreme. Sajam će, kao i ranijih godina, biti organizovan na izlagačkom prostoru od 15.000 kvadratnih metara, u halama 1, 2, 3, 5 i 14 i na otvorenom prostoru. Učestvovaće više od 800 domaćih i stranih izlagača – turističkih organizacija, velikih turističkih agencija, hotela, banaka, osiguravajućih društava, sistema za rezervaciju karata... U hali 1 nalaziće se najveće domaće i inostrane turističke agencije, hotelski lanci i osiguravajuća društva. U hali 2, pored velikih turoperatora, biće izloženi specijalizovani mediji i najvažnije turističke obrazovne institucije, škole i univerziteti. Hala 3 rezervisana je ove godine za ugostiteljsku i hotelsku opremu, u hali 5 nalaziće se Crna Gora sa svim svojim turističkim potencijalima i kapacitetima, a u hali 14, kao i prošle godine, biće štandovi domaćih turističkih lokacija – turističke organizacije, ministarstva, udruženja, planine, banje – najatraktivnije destinacije iz turističke ponude Srbije. Sve najveće turističke agencije, hotelski lanci i turističke destinacije već su rezervisali prostor na sajmu za svoje štandove, tako da u februaru možemo s pravom očekivati najveći dosadašnji Međunarodni sajam turizma. Kao i ranijih godina agencije će posetiocima sajma odobravati sajamski popust na raniju uplatu turističkih aranžmana, a organizatori najavljuju i druge pogodnosti. Biće organizovane i nagradne igre za posetioce. Međunarodni sajam turizma pratiće i brojne srodne manifestacije pod kupolama Beogradskog sajma i na raznim lokacijama u gradu, tako da će Beograd u to vreme biti prava prestonica turizma. Počasni gost ovogodišnjeg sajma biće Istra, čije je prošlogodišnje gostovanje odloženo zbog okolnosti prouzrokovanih višim razlozima. Istra će se predstaviti sveobuhvatnije nego što je planirano prošle godine, na izložbenom prostoru većem od stotinu kvadrata. Turistička organizacija te regije pripremila je bogatu izlagačku prezentaciju sa turističkom ponudom koja će prikazati posebne pogodnosti za naše turiste i posetioce sajma turizma. BELGUEST

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

Experience the joy of Christmas with the spirit of giving. Bring family and friends to our annual cultural and shopping fair. Buy gifts for loved ones, try our international selection of food and drink, win presents and let us take care of your children, while you enjoy a day full of festivities. We donate 100 % of all proceeds from the Bazaar to charities supporting disadvantaged people across Serbia and those in need of emergency humanitarian relief, Christmas Charity Bazaar, December 7th 2008, 10 a.m. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4 p.m. Belgrade Fair, Hall 2

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ALPHA BANK PAYMENT CARDS

ALPHA BANK PLATNE KARTICE

The use of payment cards has become a trend in developed countries mostly due to the privileges that payment in plastic affords compared to payment in cash.

Korišćenje platnih kartica postao je trend u razvijenim zemljama, pre svega zbog pogodnosti bezgotovinskog plaćanja u odnosu na gotovinski način plaćanja.

ALL CARDS ARE NOT EQUAL NISU SVE KARTICE ISTE

owadays, banks offer debit and credit cards, cards for Retail and Corporate clients, national and international cards, and co-branded cards. Joining that diversity, Alpha Bank offers a wide range of cards to meet everyone’s needs. Alpha Bank is among the top banks in terms of the number of issued cards, which increases steadily every day. With its Visa Business Cards, Alpha Bank offers a number of benefits to small and medium size entities as well as other services for that client segment. Alpha Bank Visa Business Card is a credit card for legal entities and entrepreneurs who want to make their everyday operations faster, easier and more secure. You can use this card both in the country and abroad to pay for goods and services, withdraw cash and make on-line purchases. Paying with Alpha Bank Business Card enables better cost control, reduces the risk of carrying cash, and money remains at your disposal twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week. All consumption, both in the country and abroad, can be conducted within the approved limit in RSD, and your bank automatically encumbers your current account with the amount of your due date obligations once a month.

ponudi banaka danas imate debitne i kreditne kartice, kartice za fizička i pravna lica, nacionalne i internacionalne, te kobrendirane kartice. Pridružujući se toj raznovrsnosti, Alpha Bank nudi široku paletu kartičarskih proizvoda, u kojoj svako može naći proizvod koji odgovara njegovim potrebama i mogućnostima. Alpha Bank je u samom vrhu kada je reč o broju izdatih kartica i taj broj se sa svakim danom uvećava. U okviru specijalne ponude za mala i srednja preduzeća Alpha Bank se predstavila tržištu nizom pogodnosti vezanih za Visa business kartice, ali i brojnim drugim uslugama za taj segment klijenata. Visa Business kartica Alpha Bank je kreditna kartica namenjena pravnim licima i preduzetnicima koji žele da svoje svakodnevno poslovanje učine bržim, jednostavnijim i sigurnijim. Ovu karticu možete koristiti u zemlji i inostranstvu za plaćanje roba i usluga, podizanje gotovine i kupovinu putem Interneta. Plaćanje Alpha Bank Visa Business karticom omogućava vam bolju kontrolu troškova, smanjuje rizik od nošenja gotovine, a novac vam je na raspolaganju 24 sata, sedam dana u nedelji. Svu potrošnju u zemlji i inostranstvu vršite u okviru odobrenog dinarskog limita, a Banka jednom mesečno automatski zadužuje vaš tekući račun za iznos dospelih obaveza. BELGUEST

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

B E L

M E D I C

D O C T O R

J A S M I N A

K N E Ž E V I Ć

A SUCCESS STORY What Bel Medic has achieved since 1995, when it was established, is a textbook example of success. We certainly cannot say, by any means, that the period of its early development was easy. On the contrary. Nor can we say that the chosen business was easy. Not at all. Therefore, this is almost a film-like story about success in which the main actors are Doctor Jasmina Knežević, our interviewee, and her husband Milan, a documentary film director, who paved the way towards a different perception of a health system as well as towards a completely different feeling

el Medic’s motto is “When you want to feel secure”. What makes people who come to your clinic seeking help feel secure? Security is perhaps a key word when it comes to the health system in Serbia. - This unique motto directly presents the main idea out of which the Bel Medic grew in the initial period when we were determining what our work and approach to work was going to be. The desire prevailed to provide a feeling of security to our patients, with doctors and nurses devoted to their jobs. In our country, there is not a scarcity of knowledge. An interest in patients, committment, what we vocationally call empathy, is exactly what we lack in sufficient quantity. Empathy for patient’s problems is necessary as it calms them down and is even therapeutic. The entire concept is based on the effort to lead a patient through his illness, through all the phases of healing, and not only to provide a medical examination by a supreme specialist. It implies that we approach a patient as a unit, and not only as a person with a current health problem. In practice, it means that even when our clinic lacks the means to perform some diagnostic method or to undertake a remedy action in our clinic, we will strive, in cooperation with other clinics, to continue to solve the problem and seek the right remedy. We do everything we can to heal a person. Our doctor thinks of his patient even when he leaves the clinic. He also tries to help by phone, ensuring all the phases of healing are being done in the right direction, checking how a patient is reacting to therapy or that an illness is not developing in an undesirable way. We all know that medicine is unpredictable. Even the best doctors in the world can be surprised by some phases of illness or the reactions of a patient. Therefore,

contact with the patient, even when they leave the clinic, is of major importance for us, because it can decrease risk to the lowest possible level. At Bel Medic we try to understand a patient, to help him, to be with him when it is most necessary. Of course, people who needed help recognised that. The number of our patients is constantly growing.” From the first doctor’s office in 1995, a polyclinic in 2001 and general hospital in 2005, along with many acknowledgements such as the best brand in Serbia, great brand, the most European women company, the best European, what were the most important moments, i.e. turning points? What determined that moment, what classified it as a success? - My life philosophy is based on the stance that you should always look into the future, you should not look back too often. We must not waste our time. You should keep track of everything happening in medicine, in our country as well as in the world. During my travels, I often visited foreign hospitals. I was interested to see how my colleagues work in both the state and private sector, even before my husband Milan and I set up Bel Medic. Afterwards, we tried to implement everything we had recognised as a best solution or method at our clinic. Serbs, as a people, certainly have intellectual potential that can compete with the world. What we lack is better organisation, a system that is stimulating for people with initiative, which recognises and supports people with a spirit to reform, people who are ready to change and trigger things in their environment. Throughout the entire development of Bel Medic, I have tried to be a trigger and introduce things that would make us stand

apart from others. We were the first to introduce the international ISO standards, which required great effort. Making procedures and determining rules was met with some resistance at first. Today, it is the standard according to which we do business. That system was first recognised by foreigners who asked us for help. All that was déjà vu for them. That made them opt for our service, but it also educated local people.” The results were visible soon. - Our reference list is really impressive. But success has not come accidentally. It was preceded by intensive professional work. Cooperation with foreign insurance companies, which was very rare in Belgrade eight years ago, has also contributed to that success. That was a real miracle for people with foreign insurance, who previously went to Budapest or Vienna for medical help. They were surprised by how fast we organised medical examinations, ultrasound, doppler, Xray, laboratory – everything functions according to the same system – 24 hours, at any time of day or night. Recently, we set up one-day surgery, for conditions that do not require long hospitalisation. Two excellent anaesthesiologists are present at every operation.” It is said that what we believe in determines us as individuals. What do you believe in? - We have long been stagnating. I believe we can change things for the better and we can be an equal part of the world. Using our knowledge and skills, with good organisation, we can catch up with the world. Therefore, I believe in the potential of my people.” DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ photographs: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

B E L

M E D I C

D O K T O R

J A S M I N A

K N E Ž E V I Ć

MALA VELIKA PRIČA O USPEHU To što je Bel Medic postigao od 1995. godine, kada je osnovan, do danas je školski primer uspeha. Nikako se ne može reći da je vreme u kome je nastajao bilo lako. Naprotiv. Ne može se reći ni da je izabrani posao bio lak. Ni slučajno. Dakle, ovo je skoro filmska priča o uspehu, u kojoj su glavni akteri dr Jasmina Knežević, naš sagovornik, i njen suprug Milan, reditelj, reformatorski krčili put ka jednom drugačijem poimanju zdravstva, ali i ka jednom sasvim drugačijem osećaju za čoveka.

vojevrstan moto Bel Medica je: Kad poželite osećaj sigurnosti. Šta je to što omogućava taj osećaj sigurnosti ljudima koji se za pomoć obrate Vašoj klinici. Sigurnost je možda i ključna reč kada je u pitanju zdravstvo u Srbiji. - Taj moto na najdirektniji način oslikava osnovnu ideju iz koje je i nastao Bel Medic, u onim prvim trenucima kada smo određivali kakav će biti naš rad i uopšte pristup poslu. Preovladala je želja da sa angažovanim doktorima i sestrama, uz posvećenost poslu, pokušamo da pacijentu omogućimo osećaj sigurnosti. Već neko vreme na ovim našim prostorima znanje nije deficitarno. Ono što nedostaje, ili čega nema dovoljno jeste upravo ta zainteresovanost za pacijenta, posvećenost, to što stručno zovemo empatijom. To saosećanje zdravstvenog radnika za problem koji pacijent ima i te kako je potrebno, umiruje, čak je na neki način lekovito. Mi smo čitav koncept klinike zasnovali na tom pokušaju da pacijenta vodimo kroz bolest u svemu što je potrebno i u svim fazama lečenja. Da naša uloga ne bude samo obezbeđivanje pregleda kod vrhunskog specijaliste. U suštini to podrazumeva pristup pacijentu tako da se on posmatra kao celina, a ne samo kao osoba koja trenutno ima određeni zdravstveni problem. U praksi to znači i da, ako na našoj klinici nema mogućnosti da se uradi neka dijagnostička metoda, intervencija, nastojimo da, u saradnji sa drugim klinikama, i dalje rešavamo problem i tražimo pravi lek. Da sve što je potrebno pokrenemo kako bismo čoveka izlečili. Naš lekar misli o pacijentu i kada on napusti kliniku, onoliko koliko proceni da je potrebno, on i telefonskim kontaktom nastoji da pomogne i proveri da li sve faze ozdravljenja teku kako treba, kakva je reakcija na terapiju, da bolest nije poprimila neki neželjeni tok. Medicina je, to svi

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

znamo, nepredvidiva. I najboljeg doktora na svetu neke faze bolesti, ili reakcija pacijenta, mogu da iznenade. Zato je za nas veoma bitan taj kontakt s pacijentom i kada on napusti kliniku, jer upravo takva praksa može rizik koji je realan da smanji na najmanji nivo. Bel Medic je kuća u kojoj nastojimo da pacijenta razumemo, da mu pomognemo, budemo uz njega kada mu je to najpotrebnije. Naravno, ljudi kojima je bila potrebna pomoć to su prepoznali. Broj naših pacijenata je sve veći. Na putu Bel Medica, od prve ordinacije 1995. godine, poliklinike iz 2001, preko opšte bolnice iz 2005, utemeljenom brojnim priznanjima: Najbolja robna marka Srbije, Super brend, Najevropskija ženska firma, Najevropljanin.., koji su bili oni najznačajniji – prelomni trenuci? Šta je to što ga je odredilo, svrstalo u to što je bilo gde u svetu, posebno kod nas – uspeh. - Moja životna filozofija ima uporište u stavu da uvek treba gledati ka budućnosti, da se ne treba previše okretati prošlosti. Ne smemo gubiti vreme. Treba tako pomno pratiti sve što se dešava u medicini, kod nas svakako, ali je još značajnije to što se dešava u svetu. Skoro sva moja putovanja bila su povezana sa posetama tamošnjim bolnicama. Zanimalo me da vidim kako kolege rade u državnom, kako u privatnom sektoru, čak i pre nego što smo moj suprug Milan i ja osnovali Bel Medic. Kasnije smo nastojali da to što smo prepoznali kao najbolje rešenje ili metodu primenimo i na našoj klinici. Mi kao narod nesumnjivo imamo intelektualni potencijal, koji apsolutno može da se takmiči sa svetom. To što nam nedostaje jeste bolja organizacija, sistem koji je stimulativniji za ljude sa inicijativom, koji prepoznaje i podržava ljude sa reformatorskim duhom, spremne da menjaju i pokreću stvari u svom okruženju. Tokom čitavog

razvojnog puta Bel Medica nastojim da pokrenem i uvedem u rad klinike stvari koje će nas razlikovati od drugih. Među prvima smo uveli međunarodne ISO standarde, što je, pogotovo u povoju, podrazumevalo mukotrpan rad. Pravljenje procedura, ustanovljenje pravila je u početku nailazilo na otpor. Danas je to standard po kome radimo. Taj poredak stvari su na našoj klinici najpre prepoznali stranci koji su nam se obraćali za pomoć. To je za njih bilo već viđeno. To ih je i opredeljivalo za naše usluge, ali je s vremenom i edukovalo naše ljude. Efekti su bili vrlo brzo vidljivi. - Naša referentna lista je zaista impresivna. Ali taj uspeh nije slučajan. Njemu je prethodio intenzivan profesionalni rad. Saradnja sa stranim osiguravajućim kućama je takođe nešto što je opredelilo taj uspeh. Pre osam godina to je bila retkost u Beogradu. Za ljude sa stranim osiguranjima, koji su pre toga za medicinsku pomoć odlazili u Budimpeštu ili Beč, to je bilo pravo čudo. Isto tako brzina kojom uvek, u bilo koje doba dana i noći, organizujemo preglede, i ultrazvuk, dopler, rendgen, laboratoriju – sve što je potrebno funkcioniše istim intenzitetom – 24 sata. Odnedavno imamo i takozvanu jednodnevnu hirurgiju, koja ne zahteva dugu hospitalizaciju. U našem timu dva vrsna anesteziologa prisustvuju svakoj operaciji. To u šta verujemo, kažu, određuje nas kao ljude. Šta je to u šta Vi uspevate da verujete? - Dugo smo stajali. Verujem da mi možemo da menjamo stvari nabolje i da možemo da budemo sasvim ravnopravni deo sveta. Da sa svojim znanjem i umećem, uz dobru organizaciju i pristup, možemo da trčimo sve te bitke koje su ispred nas. Verujem, dakle, u potencijal svoga naroda. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ fotografije: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

A feeling of safety... Whenever you need it! 1 3

y e a r s

o f

e x p e r i a n c e Full medical and dental services, 24 hours a day...

Specialist medical services for children and adult patients Bel Medic on 2 locations! Operating theatre En-suite rooms for patients X-ray Laboratory Ultrasound diagnostics Physical therapy Dentist

BEL MEDIC General Hospital Opposite “Red Star” stadium, Koste Jovanovića 87 BEL MEDIC Outpatient Clinic Opposite Belgrade Fair, Viktora Igoa 1

00-24 every day

including Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays

Tel. 309 1000

www.belmedic.com BEL MEDIC International quality standard ISO 9001

A THE CASTLE WITH

ARISTOCRATIC CHARM In the quiet plain of Vojvodina, in the vicinity of Carska Bara – a unique nature reserve in Europe – on the left bank of the Begej River, in the village of Ecka, you will find the unique castle Kastel. The landowner Lazar family built it in the English style in 1820. Today it is a hotel, which testifies to the aristocratic charm and extraordinary art of living.

ormerly a family mansion whose ramparts are surrounded by a four-hectare park with different plants, monuments and statues, the structure has today been converted into the hotel Kastel Ecka. The story of bygone times is completed with a Roman- Catholic and Orthodox church from 1711 – the legacy of the first owner. The hunting castle offers unforgettable moments to its guests in a space inspired with the aristocratic past – an encounter between a modern and eternal interior, peace and intimacy, charm and elegance. The hotel has 37 double rooms, one single room and seven suites. They are equipped with direct telephone lines, the Internet, safes, mini bars, television, exclusive bathrooms and air-conditioners, and they represent a part of the modern world in the medieval milieu. In the halls of Kastel, far from the city noise and

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rush, different seminars, congresses, lectures or meetings can be organised. Along with pleasant sounds, specialties of national and international cuisine can be found on the a la cart menu in the ballroom restaurant, while spirits and wine from all over the world will satisfy the tastes of the most demanding visitors. Other activities that the hotel organises, such as spring, summer or autumn hunting in the nearby hunting grounds Begej, sports fishing on the rivers Tisza, Tamis and Begej, visiting the town of Zrenjanin or travelling by boat over Carska Bara confirm that the hunting castle Kastel Ecka is a place where fairy tales becomes reality. Indulge in the extraordinary royal pleasure and the unusual art of living. VLADIMIR POČUČ photograph: BRANKO JOVANOVIĆ

INFO Hunting castle Kastel Ecka 7 Novosadska Street 23203 Ečka Tel: 023–554-800 office@kastelecka.com www.kastelecka.com

FERENZ LIST AND COUNT ESTERHAZY The landowner of Ecka Lazar Agoston built the family castle from 1816 to 1820. When it was opened, each corner of the village was put in order, houses were decorated and yards cleaned. For that special occasion, a chef was brought from Vienna. Carriages and horses shined in welcome for important guests from the Austro-Hungarian capital and Budapest. The famous count Esterhazy, the richest Hungarian aristocrat, was also present. The opening of the castle was announced with a torchlight parade and the ringing of church bells on August 29, 1820. After lunch, the gentlemen went hunting, while the ladies travelled in gondolas over Veliko Jezero and the River Begej. The evening ball was enchanting for many people- the beautiful dresses and uniforms filled the paths in the park, which was illuminated with multicolour fires. Ferenz List, a supreme virtuoso and a wunderkind of the time, played the piano for guests. Kastel has been a centre for hunting lovers from our country and abroad for years. The visitors also included Austro-Hungarian and Serbian heirs to the throne Franc Ferdinand and Aleksandar Karadjordjevic. From the 1990s, the castle has been under the patronage of the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments of the Republic of Serbia.

DVORAC SA

ARISTOKRATSKIM ŠARMOM U pitomoj vojvođanskoj ravnici, nadomak Carske bare – jedinstvenog rezervata prirode u Evropi – na levoj obali Begeja, u selu Ečka, nalazi se dvorac Kaštel. Podigla ga je vlastelinska porodica Lazar, u engleskom stilu, 1820. godine. Danas to hotelijersko zdanje svedoči o aristokratskom šarmu i neobičnoj umetnosti življenja.

ekadašnja porodična vila, čije zidine okružuje park od četiri hektara, sa raznolikim rastinjem, spomenicima i statuama, preuređena je u hotel Kaštel Ečka. Priču o prohujalom vremenu upotpunjuju pravoslavna crkva iz 1711. godine i rimokatolička, koja je zaostavština prvog vlasnika. Lovački dvorac gostima daruje nezaboravne trenutke u prostoru koji je inspirisan aristokratskom prošlošću – susret modernog i svevremenog enterijera, mir i diskreciju, šarm i eleganciju. Hotel

ima 37 dvokrevetnih soba, jednu jednokrevetnu sobu i sedam apartmana. Direktna telefonska linija u njima, pristup Internetu, sef, mini bar, televizija, ekskluzivna kupatila i klima uređaj samo su deo savremenog u srednjovekovnom ambijentu. U salama Kaštela, daleko od gradske vreve i užurbanosti, mogu se organizovati i različiti seminari, kongresi, predavanja ili prijemi. Uz dobre zvuke, specijaliteti nacionalne i međunarodne kuhinje a la cart restorana smeštenog u balskoj dvorani, žestoka pića i vina svih meridijana,

zadovoljiće ukuse i najprobirljivijih posetilaca. Da je lovački dvorac Kaštel Ečka mesto gde bajka postaje stvarnost potvrđuju i ostali sadržaji koje hotel organizuje – prolećni, letnji ili jesenji lov u obližnjem lovištu Begej, sportski ribolov na Tisi, Tamišu i Begeju, obilazak Zrenjanina ili vožnja brodom po Carskoj bari. Prepustite se nesvakidašnjem kraljevskom uživanju i neobičnoj umetnosti življenja... VLADIMIR POČUČ

FRANC LIST I GROF ESTERHAZI Ečki vlastelin Lazar Agošton gradio je porodični dvorac od 1816. do 1820. godine. Za njegovo otvaranje uređivao se svaki kutak sela, doterivale kuće i čistila dvorišta. Za tu priliku glavni kuvar doveden je iz Beča. Kočije i konji blistali su za doček uglednih zvanica iz austrougarske prestonice i Budimpešte. Događaju je prisustvovao i čuveni grof Esterhazi, najbogatiji ugarski aristokrata. Svečanom bakljadom 29. avgusta 1820. i zvucima crkvenih zvona najavljeno je otvaranje zamka. Posle ručka gospoda su otišla u lov, a dame na vožnju gondolama po Velikom jezeru i Begeju. Večernji bal ličio je mnogima na čaroliju – raskošne toalete i uniforme ispunile su staze u parku, koji je bio osvetljen raznobojnim vatrama. Gostima je svirao Franc List, tada nenadmašni virtuoz i čudo od deteta. Kaštel je godinama bio stecište ljubitelja lova iz zemlje i inostranstva. U njemu su boravili i austrougarski i srpski prestolonaslednik – Franc Ferdinand i Aleksandar Karađorđević. Od devedesetih godina prošlog veka dvorac je pod pokroviteljstvom Zavoda za zaštitu spomenika kulture Republike Srbije.

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ON THE SLOPES OF SENJAK Our capital has received another elegant and quiet hotel, a unique dwelling for family and business people. Located near Topcider Park, Lake Sava and the Belgrade Fair, the four-star Hotel Prestige gives its guests a break from the endless rush of Belgrade, providing them with an opportunity to rest well.

otel Prestige, on the slopes of Senjak, has 24 single and double rooms, four suites, two of which are very luxuriously equipped. The hotel’s capacity enables lodging for 53 guests. They can choose rooms in blue, orange or brown. Air-conditioning, LCD screens, wireless Internet connections, telephones in the rooms, safe-deposit boxes and mini bars contribute to the comfort of visitors. Guests have a gym, sauna, massage room, cinema and space for children to be entertained at their disposal. The hotel has a car park, its own transportation, security and video monitoring. A tourist guide fulfills various requests by guests, such as a visit to Ada Ciganlija or attending one of many cultural happenings in Belgrade. The ground floor of the hotel, decorated with stone, wood, paintings and modern furniture, includes a reception desk, the restaurant Bask - with outdoor and indoor seating in two separate

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parlors – which serves national and EuropeanMediterranean cuisine. Upstairs is a conference RESTAURANT BASK Restaurant Bask started working long ago, in 1948. It has always been famous for national cuisine specialties, including grilled meat dishes, ajvar (salad made of chopped peppers and eggplant) and pork shin. It was most popular from 1974 to 1990, when its manager was the famous Belgrade restaurateur Aca Devetka. Back then, one had to reserve a seat in the restaurant several days in advance. Restaurant Bask was closed following the great floods in April 2004. Today with its new look and comfortable and modern milieu, with two 250 – seat halls, it continues its tradition. Along with well-known hard liquors and wines from the whole world and cooked specialties of national cuisine, the restaurant also offers Continental and Mediterranean dishes.

hall equipped for organising simultaneous international meetings.. The spacious open-air restaurant is suitable for various meetings, seminars, banquettes and cocktail parties. Athletes and sport teams, as well as modern business persons, can recreate and practice handball, basketball and indoor football in the halls, which are a component part of the hotel under a dome of solid construction. Equipment satisfies all professional demands. For those who want to watch sports events organised by the hotel, 200 seats are provided. The fact that the guests of Hotel Prestige always return, changing only the colour of their rooms, is the best proof that Hotel Prestige represents a representative hotel shrine that cherishes excellent service and complete dedication to its guests. VLADIMIR POČUČ

NA PADINAMA SENJAKA Hotel Prestige Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24 11000 Beograd, Srbija Tel: 011 30 57 465, fax: 011 30 57 466 Plaćanje svim platnim karticama info@prestigehotel.rs www.hotelprestige.rs

otel na padinama Senjaka – Prestige ima 24 jednokrevetne i dvokrevetne sobe, četiri apartmana, od kojih su dva posebno luksuzno opremljena. U tom malom porodičnom hotelu može se smestiti 53 gosta. Mogu izabrati sobe u plavoj, narandžastoj ili braon boji. Klima, lcd ekrani, bežični Internet, telefoni u sobama, sefovi i mini barovi, samo su deo sadržaja koji doprinose udobnosti posetilaca. Na raspolaganju su im teretana, sauna, prostor za masažu, hotelski prevoz, te bioskopska sala i igraonica za decu sa animatorima. Prestige ima sopstveni parking, obezbeđenje i video nadzor. O zahtevima gostiju, poput obilaska grada, Ade ciganlije ili posete kulturnih događaja u Beogradu, brine turistički vodič hotela. U prizemlju Prestigea, koji oplemenjuju kamen, drvo, umetničke slike i moderan nameštaj, jesu

Nedavno je na hotelijersku mapu naše prestonice ubeležen još jedan elegantan i miran prostor, svojevrsno utočište porodičnog i poslovnog sveta. Smešten je nadomak Topčiderskog parka, Savskog jezera i Košutnjaka, u blizini Sajma. Hotel Prestige, kategorisan sa četiri zvezdice, predstavlja mesto predaha i odmora u prepoznatljivoj užurbanosti Beograda.

recepcija, restoran nacionalne i evro-mediteranske kuhinje Bask, zimsko-letnja bašta i dva izdRESTORAN BASK Bask je sa radom započeo daleke 1948. godine. Oduvek je bio poznat po specijelitema nacionalne kuhinje – roštilj, ajvar cepkani i kolenice. Najveću popularnost stekao je od 1974. do 1990. godine, kada ga je vodio čuveni beogradski ugostitelj Aca devetka. U to vreme, za obrok u restoranu bila je potrebna rezervacija i po nekoliko dana unapred. Zbog velikih poplava aprila 2004. Bask je zatvoren. Danas u novom ruhu, u udobnom i modernom ambijentu, sa dve sale od po 250 mesta, nastavlja tradiciju. Uz provereno dobra žestoka pića, poznata vina svih meridijana, kulinarske poslastice domaće kuhinje, na meniju restorana su jela evropskog i mediteranskog podneblja.

vojena salona. Na spratu je konferencijska sala. Opremljena je tako da obezbeđuje i internacinalne simultane skupove. Prostrana zimsko-letnja bašta ili restoran pogodni su za različite prijeme, seminare, bankete i koktele. Sportisti i sportske ekipe, ali i savremen poslovni svet, mogu se rekreirati i vežbati u salama za rukomet, košarku i mali fudbal, koje se nalaze u sastavu hotela, pod balonom sa čvrstom konstrukcijom. Njihova oprema odgovara svim profesionalnim zahtevima. A za gledaoce sportskih manifestacija koje Prestige organizuje obezbeđeno je 200 mesta. Da je Prestige zaista reprezentativan hotelijerski hram, koji neguje vrhunsku uslugu i potpunu povećenost gostu, potvrđuje činjenica da mu se oni uvek vraćaju, menjajući samo boju sobe. VLADIMIR POČUČ

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

Na najlepšem mestu U najboljem društvu

Lokacija: Vršac, obronci Vršačkih planina, 170 m nadmorske visine i zadivljujući pogled na panoramu grada i neprekidnu banatsku ravnicu. Udaljenost: Beograd 86 km, Novi Sad 150 km, aerodrom Nikola Tesla 98 km, granica sa Rumunijom 13 km, Temišvar 65 km Smeštaj: 44 izuzetno prostranih i udobnih soba, 4 luksuzna apartmana. Ugostiteljstvo: domaća i internacionalna kuhinja, restoran Eol sa 150 mesta, restoranska terasa kapaciteta 200 mesta, zimska bašta kapaciteta 30 mesta, Kamin bar kapaciteta 55 mesta. Seminari, kongresi, obuke, poslovni sastanci: kongresna dvorana kapaciteta 140 mesta, višenamenska banket sala, kapaciteta do 60 mesta, dve dodatne sale za sastanke, kapaciteta 10 odnosno 20 mesta. Sve sale opremljene vrhunskom prezentacionom tehnikom. Posebna pogodnost mogućnost simultanog prevođenja na više stranih jezika u isto vreme (oprema za prevođenje, kabine za prevodioce) Spa centar: sastoji se od dva bazena, unutrašnjeg, sa grejanom vodom, i spoljašnjeg, dve kade sa hidromasažerima, ﬁtnes sale sa najmodernijim miltifunkcionalnim spravama, dve ﬁnske saune, turskog (parnog) kupatila, soba za masažu, kafe bara sa terasom. Usluge terapijske, relaksacione masaže, razne vrste tretmana. Dodatne usluge: parking mesto u zatvorenoj garaži, sa video nadzorom 24 časa, Concierge usluge, brza internet veza, menjačnica, bilijar sala. Van hotelska ponuda: sportske aktivnosti - Centar Millennium, teniski tereni, vinske ture, paraglajding, šetnja vršačkim brdom, obilazak kulturno istorijskih znamenitosti, krstarenje Dunovam.

Location: Vrsac, at the foot of Vrsac Mountain, 170 м above sea level with fascinating view over town panorama and vast Banat plain. Situated: 86 km from Belgrade, 150 km from Novi Sad , 98 km from Airport Nikola Tesla, 13 km from Romanian border, 65 km from Timisoara Accommodation: 44 spacious and comfortable rooms and 4 luxury apartments Restaurants: domestic and international cuisine , Eol Restaurant with 150 seats, terrace with 200 seats, Winter garden with 30 seats, Fireplace Bar with 55 seats. Seminars, congresses, team buildings, business meetings: Congress Hall with capacity of 140 seats, multipurpose Banquet Hall with capacity up to 60 seats, two additional meeting halls up to 10 and 20 seats. All meetings halls are equipped with state of simultation translation (cabins for translators and head sets for participants) SPA Center: consists of two swimming pools, indoor swimming pool with heated water and outdoor swimming pool, two Jacuzzi baths, Fitness center with multifunctional equipment , two Finish saunas, Turkish steaming bath , Rooms for massage, café bar cosmetics tretmants. Additional services: parking place in garage with 24 hour of video security, Concierge service, fast cable internet, exchange Other activities: sports activities - Centar Millennium, tennis ding, walking tours on Vrsac hill, sightseeing, and cruise on Danube.

Goranska bb, Vrsac, tel +381 13 831 000, fax +381 13 831 007, e-mail:

CMC KLUB SATELIT

ORBITA ZA PET ZVEZDICA Sve je veće interesovanje domaćih i stranih turista za posetu Zlatiboru i izvan sezone. Posle napornih radnih dana, treba napraviti predah i napuniti baterije.

CMC CLUB SATELIT

FIVE STAR ORBIT There is growing interest among both domestic and foreign tourists to visit Zlatibor off season, as well. After hard work, one must take rest and recover.

ne of the most attractive facilities is CMC Club Satelit. A completely renovated structure meets five-star standards, a fact can be seen everywhere. Such exclusiveness has enabled Satelit to be classified among similar structures in the world, resulting in the arrival of mountain tourism lovers from many countries. As they say in CMC, the greatest advantage is that Satelit attracts tourists during the whole year. In addition, a large number of business organisations often organise seminars in Zlatibor and therefore in Satelit, as well. The suites and rooms are equipped with LCD television sets, DVD-players, mini bars, telephones and bathrooms with hydro-massage booths. Guests also have at their disposal wireless Internet. The real jewels of the club are international and national cuisine restaurants where visitors can taste various specialties and wines from around the world. The accommodation in rooms and suites and the visual identity are supplemented with paintings by famous artists. There are double rooms with attached and separate beds, suites without kitchens, suites with galleries, luxury suites and rooms. The best proof that everything has been taken into consideration is the possibility of joining rooms and suites for accommodating more guests. Within Satelit is a SPA Centre with a jacuzzi for six persons, a gym as well as an indoor swimming pool that is at guests’ disposal 24 hours a day. Massages, such as the king massage or a massage with four hands, emphasise the feeling of staying in an exclusive setting. CMC Club Satelit boasts of not having any unsatisfied guests. On the contrary, they are devoted to Satelit. Guests’ fond memories ensure their regular return, whether for short days off or for longer vacations.

edan od objekata koji privlači najviše pažnje jeste CMC Klub Satelit. Kompletno renoviran, objekat odgovara standardima 5 zvezdica i to se vidi na svakom koraku. Takva ekskluzivnost omogućila je svrstavanje Satelita u svetski lanac sličnih objekata, a samim tim, kao odgovor - dolazak ljubitelja planinskog turizma iz celog sveta. Kako kažu u CMC-u, najveća prednost jeste što Satelit privlači turiste tokom cele godine. Takođe, mnoge poslovne organizacije često organizuju seminare baš na Zlatiboru, pa samim tim i u Satelitu. Apartmani i sobe su opremljeni LCD televizorima, DVD plejerima, mini barom, telefonskom linijom, kupatila su sa hidromasažnim kabinama. Gostima je na raspolaganju i bežična Internet konekcija. Pravi ukras Satelita je internacionalni restoran i restoran domaće kuhinje, gde se mogu probati različiti specijaliteti i degustirati vina iz celog sveta. Smeštaj u sobama i apartmanima je raznovrstan, a INFO: vizuelni identitet upotpunjuju slike poznatih autora. CMC Club Satellite Tu su dvokrevetne sobe sa spojenim i razdvojenim Obudovica bb, krevetima, apartmani bez kuhinje, apartmani sa 31315 Zlatibor galerijom, luksuzni apartmani, luksuzne sobe, a +381 31 841 188 dokaz da se na sve mislilo jeste i mogućnost spajanja www.satelit.rs soba i apartmana za smeštaj više osoba. U okviru Satelita nalazi se i SPA centar sa đakuzijem za 6 osoba, saunom, teretanom, kao i zatvoreni bazen koji je na raspolaganju gostima 24 sata dnevno. Masaže, kao što su kraljevska ili masaža sa četiri ruke, samo pojačavaju osećaj boravka u ekskluzivnom objektu. Ono što je karakteristično za CMC Klub Satelit jeste da nema nezadovoljnih gostiju. Naprotiv, oni se vezuju za Satelit i čuvaju ga u lepoj uspomeni, trudeći se da svaki slobodan dan iskoriste da mu se ponovo vrate. DUŠAN GOLOČEVAC

R E S T A U R A N T Z O N E S I N B E L G R A D E Z O N E R E S T O R A N A U B E O G R A D U

These three maps depict the three areas where dining establishments in Belgrade are concentrated. Of course, the city has good restaurants outside of these areas, but these are the areas where most of them can be found, and where each and every natural and urban element works together to create a special atmosphere. You can select an enjoyable place beside the Danube, at the very confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, or at the Belgrade Fortress, which looks over the rivers. We have represented Dorćol, too – one of the oldest parts of the city, which lies alongside Skadarska Street, also called the “Bohemian quarter,” one of the tourist centres of the city that can’t be missed.

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AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Sa tri karte predstavljene su tri celine u kojima je koncentrisana ugostiteljska ponuda Beograda. Naravno, grad ima dobrih restorana i van ovih ambijenata, ali ovo su prostori gde ih ima najviše i gde svaka prirodna i urbanistička celina predstavlja jednu posebnu priču. Možete odabrati mesto za provod uz obalu Dunava, na samom ušću reke Save u Dunav ili na Beogradskoj tvrđavi koja gleda na reke. Prikazali smo i Dorćol – jedan od najstarijih delova grada, koji se naslanja na Skadarsku ulicu koja se naziva i „boemskom četvrti” i koja predstavlja jedan od nezaobilaznih turističkih punktova grada.

R T E r

1. TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501, rv/ wh 11.00-1.00h national cuisine, live music 2. PUTUJUĆI GLUMAC, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 3341-024 rv/wh 9.00-02.00h italian cuisine 3. ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 3228750, rv/wh 09.00-01.00h national cuisine, live music

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146 rv/wh 11.00-23.00 on Sunday 11.00-18.00h fish resturant 14. PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 rv/wh 11.00-23.00h italian cuisine 15. AMPHORA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h closed on Sunday mediterranean cuisine 16. IPANEMA, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. 3283-069 rv/wh 9.00-01.00 on Sunday 12.0001.00h italian cuisine 17. KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931, rv/wh 8.00-1.00h national cuisine 18. LITTLE BAY, Dositejeva 9a, tel. 3284-163, rv/wh 11.00-01.00h international cuisine 20. IKKI SUSHI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46,tel. 2184-183, rv/wh 12.00 -24.00 japanese cuisine 21. BATLEROVA KUĆA,Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel. 218 80 33, rv/wh 12.00-24.00 national cuisine

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1. BALSAC, Strahinjića Bana 13, tel.3285-906, rv/ wh 10.00-24.00h closed on Sunday, french cuisine 2. DJU-DJU, Rige od Fere 16, tel.2182-276 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h, Sunday 13.00-20.00h, korean-japanese cuisine 3. DORIAN GRAY, Kralja Petra 87-89, tel. 2634-151 rv/wh 8.00-02.00h international cuisine 5. KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344, rv/wh 9.00-1.00h weekends 12.00-01.00h mediterranean cuisine 6. AEROKLUB, Uzun Mirkova 4, tel. 2626-077, rv/wh 9.00-23.00h closed on Sunday 7. GASTON, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel. 3285-811 rv/wh 9.00-23.00h, weekend 12.00-23.00 international cuisine 8. OTTIMO, Studentski trg 10, tel. 3286-454 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h italian cuisine 9. JEVREM, Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel. 3284-746 rv/wh 11.00-01.00h national cuisine 10. SCOTTISH PUB “VEPROV DAH”, Strahinjića Bana 52, tel.2910-135 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h national cuisine, live music 11. BUONGIORNO MARE, Strahinjića Bana 57a, tel.3284-776 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h, mediterranean cuisine 12. CASA NOVA, Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel. 3036-868 ,rv/wh 12.00-24.00h italian cuisine 13. FISH&BAR, Braće Jugovića 3 , tel. 2622-

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4. GULI, Skadarska 13, tel.3237-204, rv/wh 12.0023.30h, on Sunday 14.00-23.30h italian& mediterranean cuisine 5. CAMPO DE FIORI, Skadarska 11, tel. 3242-940 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h italian cuisine 6. DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel.323-9079, rv/wh 10.00-24.00h international cuisine 7. ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h national cuisine, live music 8. DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885, rv/wh 09.00-1.00h national cuisine, live music 9. IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat live music

BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

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Butler’s House Batlerova kuća In the heart of the old, noble Belgrade quarterDorcol lived a prominent Serb, Jovan Skerlic, a writer, literary critic and politician. Skerlic enjoyed the privileges of gentlemen of that time, so he had a butler who lived nearby in a beautiful house that today bears the number 42. Respecting history, the descendants opened a restaurant, which keeps the memory of Belgrade of that time in both its milieu and menu. The elegant dining room is filled with specialties of urban national cuisine: veal prepared in an iron pan for baking bread, stuffed grapevine leaves, breaded peppers filled with cream, beefsteak with smoked ham or lamb, as well as sweets such as walnut-stuffed apples, profiterole and floating islands The visitors of the Butler’s House can enjoy music on Saturdays. U središtu stare beogradske gospodske četrvrti – Dorćolu, živeo je jedan znamenti Srbin, Jovan Skerlić, književnik, književni kritičar i političar. Skerlić je uživao blagodati gospode tog vremena, pa je imao batlera koji je živeo u njegovom neposrednom susedstvu, u veoma lepoj kući koja danas nosi broj 42. Poštujući istoriju, naslednici su otvorili restoran koji i u ambijentu i u meniju čuva uspomenu na Beograd tog vremena. Ambijent upotpunjuju specijaliteti gradske nacionalne kuhinje – teletina ispod sača, sarmice od zelja, pohovane paprike punjene kajmakom, teleća šnicla s pršutom, te poslastice poput tufahija, I princez krofni Posetioce koji u Baltlerovu kuću dođu subotom čeka i muzički ugođaj. INFO: Restaurant Butler’s House 42 Gospodar Jovanova Street, Belgrade Telephones: 011-218-80-33, 065-218-80-33 Working hours: Every day from 12.00 to 24.00

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1. VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h fish restaurant 2.KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Mali Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 rv/wh 12.001.00h international cuisine (live music) 3. BELLA VISTA, Karađorđeva 2-4, Savsko pristanište, tel.2632-957 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h international cuisine 4. STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311- 7444 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h fish restaurant 5. ASTERIX, Ušće 1, tel. 311-2219 rv/wh 12.00-04.00h italian cuisine 6. DIJALOG, Ušće bb, tel. 311-4847 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h national cuisine 7. VIKTORIJA, Ušće bb, tel. 3132-566 rv/wh 11.00-02.00h national cuisine 8. UŠĆE****, Ušće bb, tel. 2139-692 rv/wh 9.00-24.00h international&fish restaurant 9. KARIBI, Ušće bb, tel.2130-858 rv/wh 11.00-03.00h 10. DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467, rv/wh 12.00-1.00h, closed on Tuesday, international cuisine, live music

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11. LANGOUSTE, Kosančićev venac 29, tel.3283-680, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h mediterranean cuisine Autobuska st. 12. ROYAL KNEZ***, Kneza Sime Markovića 10, tel. 2635-160 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h mediterranean Beograd cuisine 13. ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 6, tel. 2635-421, rv/wh 7.00-24.00h national cuisine 14. QUE PASA, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel. 3284-764 rv/wh 9.30-01.30h international cuisine Ž.st. 15. GRČKA KRALJICA, Knez Mihailova 51, tel. 2638-963 rv/wh 08.00-24.00h Beograd 16. TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h; weekdays 9.00-02.00h international cuisine Savski trg 17. KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972, rv/wh 08.00-24.00h national cuisine 18. VUK****, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h national cuisine 19. OPERA, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 3036-200 rv/wh 9.30-00.30h italian cuisine 20. OKTOPUS, Braće Krsmanović 3, tel. 2622-509 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h, fish restaurant kan ska

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13. MALEVILLA, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.3077-575 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h international cuisine 14. ADA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. 011 260-7590 mob.063/ 464 078 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h international cuisine 15. CLUB MAG, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel.2698-398 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h fish restaurant 16. PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 10, tel.2695-308 rv/wh 13.00-24.00h weekdays 13.00-04.00h 17. ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, mob, mob.063/7784-760 rv/wh 12.00-04.00h N O V I club, live music 18. AMPHORA, Zemunski kej bb, B E O G R A D tel.2699-789 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h international cuisine 19. AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h club restoran 20. BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h international cuisine 21. ŽABAR, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.3191-226 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h international cuisine 22. BLAY WATCH, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-228 rv/wh 09.00-04.00h club 23. GRAND, Beogradska16, Zemun, tel. 219- 4287, rv/wh 12.00-23.00h chinese cuisine

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ZEMUN 1. SALAŠ, Sinđelićeva 34,tel. 2190-324 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h national cuisine 2. REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel.2611625 rv/wh 12.00-02.00h fish restaurant &international cuisine, live music 3. ŠARAN, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel.2618-235 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h, on Monday 16.00-01.00, fish restaurant, live music 4. PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 rv/wh 09.00-24.00h international cuisine 5. SENT ANDREJA**, Kej oslobođenja 35, tel.2105-565 rv/wh 11.00-24.00 live music 6. BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, tel. 2198-162 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 italian cuisine 7. STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 rv/wh 09.00-24.00h international cuisine 8. SKALA, Bežanijska 3, tel.3075-032 rv/wh 9.00-24.00h national & international cuisine 9. KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11 E, tel.3076866 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h international cuisine,live music 10. MARINERO, Kej oslobođenja 11a, tel.3165-953 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h national cuisine, live music 11. PAŠA, Kej oslobođenja 7, tel.2612119 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h fish restaurant 12. BANGKOK, Kej oslobođenja 1b, tel.373-1044 mob.064/112 34 52 rv/wh 10.00-2.00h thailand cuisine

Lido

Hotel Jugoslavija

Ada

Club Mag

Prestige 18

Otard 19 Acapulco 20 Amphora 21 Amsterdam 22 Bahus 23

Žabar 24

Blay Watch

T O U R I S T I N F O R M AT I O N & S I G H T S E E I N G T O U R S TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE I RA ZGLEDANJE GRADA TURISTIČKI INFORMATIVNI CENTRI TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERS

- Terazije underground passage/Terazije, pešački prolaz /, Palata Albanija, tel. 2635-622, 2635-343 , rv/wh: 9-20h weekdays, sub/Sat 9-17h, ned/Sun 10-16h - Makedonska 5, tel. 3343-460, rv/wh 9-21h weekdays, sub/Sat 9-17h, ned/Sun 10-16h - Nikola Tesla Airport/ Aerodrom Nikola Tesla / , tel. 2097-638, rv/wh 9-20h sub/Sat 9-17h, ned/Sun 10-16 - Central Railway Station/ Glavna železnička stanica/, tel. 3612-732 rv/wh 9-20h weekdays, sub/Sat 9-17h, closed on Sundays - Information Center Zemun/ TC - Informativni centar Zemun / , Zmaj Jovina 14, tel. 2192-094 TOS- Informativni centar/ Information Center, Dečanska 8a, tel. 3230-566 fax 3221-068 rv/wh 9.30-21.00h weekdays, sub-ned/Sat-Sun 9.30-17.00h www.serbia-tourism.org

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SIGHTSEEING UPON REQUEST - VANREDNI PROGRAM THE BELGRADE FORTRESS - BEOGRADSKA TVRĐAVA

REGULAR SIGHTSEEING PROGRAMME REDOVNI PROGRAM BELGRADE PANORAMA BY BUS- BEOGRADSKA PANORAMA AUTOBUSOM

The sightseeing tour includes a visit to Terazije Square, King Milan St., Slavija Square,King Milutin St., King Aleksandar Boulevard, Nikola Pašić Square, Republic Square, Vasina Street, Belgrade Fort. Departure in front of Terazije Sq. Fountain every Sunday at 10.00 am Duration: 90 min Dvočasovni obilazak uključuje Terazije, ulicu Kralja Milana, trg Slaviju, ulicu Kralja Milutina, bulevar Kralja Aleksandra, Trg Nikole Pašića, Trg Republike, Vasinu ulicu, Beogradsku tvrđavu. Polazak ispred Terazijske česme svake nedelje u 10.00 Trajanje: 90 min ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE VINČA – ARHEOLOŠKO NALAZIŠTE VINČA

Departure in front of Terazije Sq. Fountain every Saturday at 11.00 am Duration: 180 min Itinerary: King Aleksandar Blvd., Smederevo Road, village of Vinča, "Vinča" archaeological site. Program: Tour of the archaeological site with the tourist guide and custodian. Polazak ispred Terazijske česme svake subote u 11.00 Trajanje: 180 min Maršruta: Bulevar kralja Aleksandra, Smederevski put, selo Vinča, Arheološko nalazište "Vinča" Program: Obilazak Arheološkog nalazišta uz komentar vodiča i kustosa.

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AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

Departure point in front of the Cvijeta Zuzorić Pavilion A two-hour sightseeing tour includes a visit to Cvijeta Zuzorić Pavilion, Belgrade Fort, Military Museum, Belgrade Victor Monument, Ruđer Bošković Observatory, Ružica Church, St. Petka Chapel, Nebojša Tower, Emperor Charles' Gate, Kalemegdan Park, Gratitude to France Monument. Polazak ispred paviljona Cvijeta Zuzorić. Dvočasovni obilazak uključuje obilazak paviljona Cvijete Zuzorić, Beogradske tvrđave, Vojnog muzeja, Pobednika, opservatorije Ruđer Bošković, crkve Ružice, kapele Svete Petke, kule Nebojše, Karlove kapije, Kalemegdanskog parka, spomenika Zahvalnost Francuskoj. OLD ZEMUN-STARI ZEMUN

Departure in front of „Pinki“ Sports Center A three-hour sightseeing tour includes a visit to „Pinki“ Sports Center, Strossmeyer Street, Main Street, Town Museum, Rajačić Street, the Serbian Home, Bežanijska Street, Ičko’s house, Cetinjska Street, „Beli medved“, Branko Radičević Square, Karamatina Street, Karamata’s house, Gardoš Hill, Sinđelićeva Street, St. Nicholas Church, „Šaran“ restaurant, the Zemun Quay, „Stara Kapetanija“ harbor master's building, Gospodska Street, Victory Square, Magistrate's Hall, St. Sava Library, Kosovska Street, Davidovićeva Street, House of Dimitrije Davidović, Air force Command Building. Polazak ispred SRC „Pinki“. Dvočasovni obilazak uključuje SRC „Pinki Zemun“, Štrosmajerovu i Glavnu ulicu, Zavičajni muzej, Rajačićevu ulicu, Srpski dom, Bežanijsku ulicu, Ičkovu kuću, Cetinjsku ulicu , „Beli medved“, trg Branka Radičevića, Karamatinu ulicu, Karamatina kuća, Gardoš, Sinđelićevu ulicu, Nikolajevsku crkvu, restoran „Šaran“, Zemunski kej, Staru Kapetaniju, Gospodsku ulicu, trg Pobede, zdanje Magistrata, biblioteku Sveti Sava, Kosovsku i Davidovićevu ulicu, kuću Dimitrija Davidovića, zgradu komande vazduhoplovstva.

T O U R I S T I N F O R M AT I O N & S I G H T S E E I N G T O U R S TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE I RA ZGLEDANJE GRADA

Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance

www.metropoliten.com glob@metropoliten.com

BELGRADE CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES- CRKVE I MANASTIRI BEOGRADA

Departure from Your hotel. A four-hour sightseeing tour includes a visit to Ružica Church (the oldest Orthodox Church in Belgrade - 16th century), St. Petka Chapel, old Belgrade core, Patriarch's residence, Orthodox Cathedral, St. Sava Church, Vavedenje Monastery and Rakovica Monastery. Polazak ispred Vašeg hotela. Četvoročasovni obilazak uljučuje najstariju pravoslavnu crkvu u Beogradu Ružica (XVI), kapelu Svete Petke, Beogradsku varoš, Patrijaršijski dvor, Sabornu crkvu, Hram Svetog Save, manastir Vavedenje i manastir Rakovicu. OLD URBAN NUCLEUS - STARO GRADSKO JEZGRO

Departure in front of Terazije Sq. Fountain. A two-hour sightseeing tour includes a visit to Terazije Square, Prince Mihailo St., Republic Square, Kosančić Square, Orthodox Cathedral, Patriarch's Residence, Princess Ljubica's Mansion. Polazak ispred Terazijske česme. Dvočasovni obilazak uključuje Terazije, Knez Mihailovu ulicu, Trg Republike, Kosančićev venac, Sabornu crkvu, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak Knjeginje Ljubice. WINE TOUR - VINSKA TURA

Program: Visit to the Grgeteg Monastery, sightseeing of Sremski Karlovci (Karlovci’s Grammar School, The Cathedral).Visits to wine cellar „Lagum“ including wine tasting, the Čenej farm - salaš „137“ and its stable, with lunch in the Vojvodina style. A daily exclusive excursion „Wine Tour“ includes the

professional guide from the Belgrade Program: Poseta manastiru „Grgeteg“, obilazak Sremskih Karlovaca (Karlovačka Gimnazija, Saborna crkva). Poseta vinskom podrumu „Lagum“ sa degustacijom vina, Čenej - salaš „137“. Obilazak salaša i ergele sa vojvođanskim ručkom, uz degustaciju vina. Program jednodnevnog ekskluzivnog izleta „Vinska tura“, prati stručni turistički vodič Turističke organizacije Beograda. „JEVREMOVAC“ BOTANICAL GARDEN BOTANIČKA BAŠTA „JEVREMOVAC“

Departure: Main gate of the Botanical gardens, every Saturday at 12.00h Info tel. 3244-498, 3244-847 Free admission Polazak: Glavna kapija Botaničke bašte, svake subote u 12.00h Info tel. 3244-498, 3244-847 Ulaz slobodan BELGRADE FROM THE SKY BEOGRAD IZ VAZDUHA BALLOON SERVICE LTD. Salvadora Aljendea no.5/9 Tel: 065/ 334 34 34; 062/252-067 balonservis@ptt.yu, www.balonservis.co.yu BALON CENTAR BEOGRAD tel. +381 65 811 9110 +381 65 811 9119 www.baloncentar.com office@baloncentar.com

Beograd Dositejeva 26 Tel./fax: (381) 11-2181-181 (381) 11-2622-620

TOURIST TRAIN ROMANTIKA TURISTIČKI VOZ ROMANTIKA

Sebian Railways - Železnice Srbije Info tel: 011 36-16-928, 3620-953, 36-18-353 rv/wh 8.00-16.00 weekdays romantika@yurail.co.yu www.zeleznicesrbije.com CRUISING WITH SIRONA- KRSTARENJE SIRONOM

Viewing Belgrade from the river; organised excursions to Novi Sad, Smederevo, Milanovac etc. The boat’s priorities are charter engagements, with ideal surroundings for banqu ets, promotions, family celebrations and other festivities. Info tel. 011/ 3242-490 Mobile: 063/479 244 Razgledanje Beograda sa reka, organizovanje izleta do Novog Sada, Smedereva, Milanovca i dr. Prioritet broda je čarter angažovanje, idealan ambijent za priređivanje banketa, promocija, porodičnih slavlja i drugih svečanosti. ZOO VRT-ZOO GARDEN Mali Kalemegdan bb, tel.2624-526, 3284-316 rv/wh 8.00-19.30h Free Admition Sightseeing is sponsored by Stari Grad Municipality, Makedonska 42, tel. 3225-912 Tourist Guide Association of Serbia Kondina14, tel 011 3227 450 www.vodicisr.org.yu

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KULTURA CULTURE POZORIŠTA – THEATERS www.geocities.com/bgpozorista ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342/www.atelje212.co.yu BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.co.yu

BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608/www.bitef.co.yu DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.co.yu DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel.2619-705 www.rex.b92.net/ister JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.yu

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.co.yu

NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet,Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333/ www.narodnopozoriste.co.yu POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA , Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SCENA RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323-8817 SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447 TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664/ www.zvezdarateatar.co.yu

DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.yu POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715/ www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf

BRITANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ BRITISH CULTURAL CENTER, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800 www.britishcouncil.org/serbia

CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270 www.czkd.org.yu DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442/ www.dksg.co.yu DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 323-99-71 FRANCUSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/FRENCH CULTURAL CENTER, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-600 www.ccf.org.yu

GOETHE INSTITUT-NEMAČKI KULTURNI CENTAR/GERMAN CULTURAL CENTER, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 2622-823/ www.goethe.de/belgrad

GUARNERIUS – centar lepih umetnosti, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807 www.guarnerius.co.yu

INSTITUT SERVANTES - ŠPANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ SPANISH CULTURAL CENTER, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, 3034-183/ www.belgrado.cervantes.es INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.ﬁl.bg.ac.yu ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ITALIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, fax.3621-411 www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it

KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.yu KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Nake Spasić 3, tel. 367-2564, www.nur.org.yu RUSKI DOM / RUSSIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178 www.ruskidom.org.yu

REX, Jevrejska 16, tel./fax 3284-534 www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014/ www.skc.org.yu ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550 / www.kolarac.co.yu

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ - ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888 KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE - THE MANSION OF DUCHESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA - THE MANSION OF DUKE MILOSH, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422 KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA - DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA - MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE - SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ - NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, 3306-000 www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538 VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ - VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE - SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM (direkcija), Nemanjina 24/7, tel. 3616-268, 3674-057

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ - JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634

MUZEJ BEOGRADSKE TVRĐAVE – BELGRADE FORTRESS MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-4317

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE - YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Trg Nikole Pašića 11, tel. 328- 4317

MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877 VOJNI MUZEJ - MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan, tel. 3344-408, 3344-915 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126 MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE - NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ TOME ROSANDIĆA, Ljube Jovanovića 3, tel.265- 1434 MUZEJ IVE ANDRIĆA - IVO ANDRIC MUSEUM, Andrićev Venac 12, tel. 323-8397 ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA - THE CITY OF BELGRADE MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel.2630-825

ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJ ZEMUN - ZEMUN CITY MUSEUM, Glavna 9, tel. 316- 5234 TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA- MUSEUM OF MOTORCARS, Majke Jevrosime 30,tel. 3034-625 MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA - MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Beograd/Belgrade airport,tel. 2670-992, 2698-209 MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE – MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850 www.muzejnt.org.yu

PTT MUZEJ- POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3210-325 ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ - RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334 PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2265

MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE – MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149

UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654 MUZEJ NAIVNE UMETNOSTI-MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART, Vlajkovićeva 3, www.naiveart.org.yu MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI - THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2626-630 MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Novi Beograd, Ušće Save bb, tel. 311-5713 www.msub.org.yu MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF DESIGN, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494 www.mpu.org.yu

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - CINEMA MUSEUM, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.yu

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BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079, rv/wh 10.00-24.00h nat DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885, rv/wh 09.00-01.00h nat live music IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat live music ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750, rv/wh 09.00-01.00h nat live music TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat live music ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat live music

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE AEROKLUB, Uzun Mirkova 4, tel. 2626-077, rv/wh 9.00-23.00h AMIGO, Mladena Stojanovića 2a, tel. 2663-366, rv/wh 09.00-23.00 ARHIV****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel. 3230-910 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h BALAŠEVIĆ, Miška Kranjca 17a, tel.3510-920, 3583-809 rv/wh 07.00-23.00h BATLEROVA KUĆA, Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel. 2188-033 mob. 065/2188-033 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h BELLA CASA, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 BELLE EPOQUE, Džordža Vašingtona 2, tel. 3345-383 rv/wh BELLA VISTA, Karađorđeva 2-4, Savsko pristanište, tel.2632-957rv/wh 9.00-01.00h BEOGRADSKA PANORAMA, hotel Palace,Topličin venac 23, tel. 2637-222 rv/wh 19.00-01.00h BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 367-0562 rv/wh 10.00-23.00h COLONIAL SUN, Bulevar Vojvode Putnika 32-34, tel.3692-156 DAKA*****, Zemun, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 101-319 rv/wh 12.00-23.30h nat

DAKA, Đure Daničića 4, tel. 3222-068 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h DAČO, Patrisa Lumumbe 49, tel. 2781-009, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h nat DEVETKA***, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783, rv/wh 8.00-24.00h DORIAN GRAY, Kralja Petra 87-89, tel. 2634-151 rv/wh 8.00-02.00h ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 361-2429 rv/wh 8.00-24.00h FRANŠ****, Bulevar JNA 18a, tel. 2641-944, rv/wh 9.00-24.00h GRČKA KRALJICA, Knez Mihailova 51, tel. 2638-363 rv/wh 08.00-24.00h HAPPY FISH, Dimitrija Tucovića 83, tel. 3444-226 rv/wh 8.00-24.00h IGUANA, Božidara Adžije 30, tel. 2443-383 rv/wh 9.00-22.00h INEX CLUB „KNEZ MIHAILO” ***, Knez Mihailova 39, tel. 2633-588 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h INTERNATIONAL PRESS CENTER CLUB, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 2621-661 rv/wh 9.00-1.00h

JEVREM, Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel. 3284-746 rv/wh 11.00-01.00h closed on Sunday KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 rv/wh 12.00-1.00h nat (live music) KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 rv/wh 9.00-1.00h KLOPKA, Stanislava Sremčevića 20, tel.2421-255 rv/wh 9.00-24.00 weekdays 13.00-24.00 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931, rv/wh 19.00-1.00h KLUB LICEJ, Đure Đakovića 31, tel. 3292- 672 rv/wh 13.00-24.00h , closed on Sunday KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972, rv/wh 8.00-24.00h KOLIBA, Dragice Pravice 7a, tel. 753-142 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h KONOBA , Prote Mateje 35, tel. 3861-103 rv/wh 10.00-23.30h KOŠUTA, Pionirska 32, tel. 2662-969 rv/wh 9.00-23.00 nat

KRALJEVINA, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel.3305-388 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h closed on Sunday KUMBARA****, Bulevar JA 46, Beli Potok, tel. 3906-834 rv/wh 9.00-23.00h LITTLE BAY, Dositejeva 9A, tel. 3284-163 rv/wh 11.00.00-1.00h MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332, rv/wh 10.00-1.00h nat METROPOLITAN GRILL*****, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140, rv/wh 06.30-23.30h

MYTHOLOGIA, Birčaninova 42, tel. 658-911 rv/wh 11.00-01.00h NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h NOVI SALAŠ, Zemun, Sinđelićeva 34, tel. 2190-324 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h ORAČ***, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507, rv/wh 9.00-24.00h nat OSKAR, Braće Baruh 6, tel. 184-726 rv/wh 9.00-23.00h sub-ned/Sat-Sun 10.00-22.00h PASTUV****, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-8058, rv/wh 10.00-23.00h PERPER lux, Omladinskih brigada 18a, tel. 2606-046 rv/wh 12.00-1.00h nat (live music) PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 rv/wh 08.00-24.00 closed on Sunday PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 rv/wh 09.00-24.00h PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel.2621-494 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h RUBIN***, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3910-987 rv/wh 10.00-23.00 nat SALAŠ, Sinđelićeva 34, Zemun, tel. 2190-324 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h SCOTTISH PUB “VEPROV DAH”, Strahinjića bana 52, tel.2910-135 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h SENT ANDREJA**, Kej oslobođenja 35, tel. 2105-565 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h (live music) SINĐELIĆ, Vojislava Ilića 86, tel. 2412-297 rv/wh 11.00-24.00 nat SKALA, Bežanijska 3, Zemun, tel. 196-605, rv/wh 11.00-1.00h nat SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197, rv/wh 11.00-2.00h STARA CARINARNICA, Kej Oslobođenja 31, tel 2616-930 nat STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 rv/wh 9.00-24.00h nat TABOR****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464, rv/wh 10.00-1.00h (live music) TANJIR, Francuska 42, tel. 339-1616 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h weekends 9.00-02.00h UŠĆE****, Ušće bb, tel. 2139-692 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h VERDI, Terazije 5, tel. 322-2401, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h VUK***, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 , rv/wh 10.00-24.00h ZAPLET, Žarka Zrenjanina 33, tel.240-4142 rv/wh 9.00-24.00h ZEPTER CLUB****, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414 rv/wh 10.00-18.00h closed on Sunday ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651, rv/wh 8.00-1.00h (live music) ZLATNA VAROŠ, Visokog Stevana 54, tel.2928-230 rv/wh 9.00-23.00h ZLATNIK****, Slavonska 26, Zemun, tel. 3166-256, rv/wh 12.00-23.00h nat ZNAK PITANJA „?”,Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421, rv/wh 7.00-24.00h nat ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-401, rv/wh 10.00-24.00h

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS

BASTION2, Braća Ribnikar 40, tel-344 77 11 BLED**, Budimska 2, tel. 3233-605, rv/wh 9.00-23.00h FISH&BAR, Braće Jugovića 3 , tel. 2622-146 rv/wh 11.00-23.00 on Sunday 11.00-18.00h KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h MARINADA***, Savski nasip 7, tel. 2158-331, rv/wh 10.00-1.00h (live music) OKTOPUS, Braće Krsmanović 3, tel. 2622-509 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h closed on Sunday PORTO, Francuska 52, tel. 322-5624 rv/wh 12.00-1.00h REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625, rv/wh 12.00-02.00h (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS ABSINTHE, Kralja Milana 33, tel. 324-0266, rv/wh 09.00-01.00 italian&french cuisine ALO ALO, Mišarska 6, tel. 324-6974, rv/wh 10.00-24.00 italian cuisine AMPHORA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h closed on Sunday mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića Bana 13, tel.3285-906, rv/wh 10.00-24.00h french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h ned/Sun 11.00-17.00h italian cuisine

BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h closed on Monday, italian cuisine

BUONGIORNO MARE, Strahinjića Bana 57a, tel.3284-776 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h mediterranean cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 rv/wh 9.00-24.00 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojsina 6, tel. tel.244-1938, rv/wh 12.00-24.00 lebanon cuisine CAMPO DE FIORI, Skadarska 11, tel. 3242-940 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h italian cuisine CASA NOVA, Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel. 3036-868 rv/wh 11.00-24.00h italian cuisine CINECITTÀ, Kneza Višeslava 88, tel. 3544-967 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h italian cuisine DJU-DJU, Rige od Fere 16, tel.2182-276 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h Sunday 13.00-20.00 korean&japanese cuisine

Šumadijski trg 8, Beograd tel. 011 305 41000, 011 305 4203 www.hotelsumadija.com office@hotelsumadija.com

Hotel

SLODES

Located in the woody area between Banjica and Kanarevo Brdo suburbs, the three-star Slodes Hotel provides quality accommodation, hotel and restaurant services to athletes, businesspeople, and other guests. Nenametljivo enametljivo smešten u šumovit predeo između Banjice i Kanarevog brda, na početku starog Košutnjaka, hotel sa tri zvezdice Slodes nudi sportistima, poslovnim ljudima, ali i ostalim gostima Beograda kvalitetne smeštajne, ugostiteljske i sportske sadržaje Hotel Slodes 92f Borska Street, Belgrade Tel: 011/30-555-18, 30-565-24 hotel.slodes@sbb.co.yu

IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 indian cuisine (closed on Thusday)

IPANEMA, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. 3283-069 rv/wh 9.00-01.00 on Sunday 12.00-24.00h italian cuisine

FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h italian cuisine GASTON, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel. 3285-811 rv/wh 8.00-23.00h french cuisine GRČKA TAVERNA, Vjekoslava Kovača 6, tel. 416-041 greek cuisine GULI, Skadarska 13, tel.3237-204, rv/wh 12.00-23.30h italian cuisine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 sea food KINESKI RESTORAN 888, Birčaninova 16, tel.2659-542 fax.2644-352 rv/wh 10.00-23.00 h KINESKI RESTORAN GRAND, Zemun, Beogradska 16, tel. 219-4287, 063/801-8888 rv/wh 12.00-23.00h KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344, rv/wh 09.00-1.00h weekends 12.00-01.00h italian cuisine LANGOUSTE, Kosančićev venac 29, tel.3283-680, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h mediterranean cuisine under construction

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LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA****, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 rv/wh 8.00-24.00h italian cuisine OPERA, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 3036-200 rv/wh 9.30-00.30h italian cuisine OTTIMO, Studentski trg 10, tel. 3286-454 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 rv/wh 11.00-23.00h closed on Sunday, italian &mediterranean cuisine

PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 181-931 rv/wh 11.00-24.00 chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 rv/wh 9.00-01.00h italian cuisine PIZZA HUT, Makedonska 44, tel. 3243-255 rv/wh 11.00-24.00 italian cuisine POSLOVNI KLUB „KOŠUTNJAK”, Pere Velimirovića 1, tel. 661-344 rv/wh 10.00-22.00h venision PRIRODA, Batutova 11, tel. 2491-890, rv/wh 12.30-22.00h vegetarian-macrobiotic cuisine PROVANS, Partizanski put 1B (teniski tereni OFK), tel. 2088-466 rv/wh 10.00-24.00 serbian&french cuisine

PUTUJUĆI GLUMAC, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 3341-024 rv/wh 9.00-02.00h italian cuisine QUE PASA, Kralja Petra I 13-15, tel. 3284-764 rv/wh 9.30-01.30h international cuisine

YOUR PLEASURE IS OUR IDEA

“NAPRED - UGOSTITELJSTVO” D.O.O. - BEOGRAD

HOTEL N je smešten u mirnom i tipičnom ambijentu Voždovca. Od sadržaja hotel ima 108 soba, 3 apartmana, restoran, aperitiv bar, 2 sale za seminare sa pratećom opremom, internet u sobama i sl. The «N»Hotel is placed in quite and tyipical enviroment of Voždovac. The capacity of the hotel is 108 rooms, 3 apartments, restaurant, aperitive bar, 2 fully-equipped conference rooms, internet, etc...

VAŠE ZADOVOLJSTVO JE NAŠA IDEJA -Od hotela se veoma brzo i lako stiže do svih važnijih destinacija u gradu: centar, autobuska i železnička stanica, aerodrom... -From the «N» Hotel you can quickly and easily reach all major points of the city: centre, bus terminus, railway station, aiport...

BILEĆKA 57 (VOŽDOVAC) Tel: +381 (0)11 39-721-83 Fax: +381 (0)11 39-555-55 www.hotel-n.co.yu E-mail: office@hotel-n.co.yu

SOBE-ROOMS, APARTMANI-APARTMENTS, DNEVNI ODMOR-VACATION, PANSION-FULL BOARD, RESTORAN-RESTAURANT, APERITIV BAR-APERIYTIVE BAR RESAVA, Resavska 24, tel. 3233-192 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h mediterranean cuisine ROYAL KNEZ***, Kneza Sime Markovića 10, tel. 2635-160 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h italian cuisine SOVA - MAO TAO, Gračanička 18, tel. 2622-656, fax 2620-668 rv/wh 10.00-24.00 chinese cuisine THASSOS, Cara Lazara 3, tel. 2620-631, rv/wh 10.00-02.00h greek cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 rv/wh 11.00-2.00h italian cuisine TRAČ, Mileševska 39, tel.3447-000 rv/wh 09.00-24.00h italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 rv/wh 12.00-23.00h sea food VELIKI ŠANGAJ, Omladinskih brigada 18b, tel. 137-986 rv/wh 12.00-23.00h chinese cuisine VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 rv/wh 12.00-24.00 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h mexican cuisine ZLATNI ORIJENT, Dr.Ivana Ribara 184a, tel.3187-385 rv/wh 12.00-22.00 chinese cuisine ZORBA, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6547 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h greek cuisine

RESTORAN PIZZERIE - RESTAURANTS PIZZERIAS ASTERIX, Ušće 1, tel. 311-2219 rv/wh 12.00-4.00h CAMPO DE FIORI, Zemun, Dubrovačka 10, tel.3242-940 FONTANA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 88, tel. 3020-636 rv/wh 9.00-1.00h GOLUB, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 204, tel. 421-401 rv/wh 8.00-23.00h Zemun, Ugrinovačka 3, tel. 316-19-89

KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344, rv/wh 09.00-1.00h weekends 12.00-01.00h LUDILO, Njegoševa 35, Zemun, tel. 3169-006 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h „M”, Vlajkovićeva 7, tel. 3231-448 rv/wh 8.00-11.30h ORAO, Bulevar despota Stefana 32, tel. 3228-836 rv/wh 00.00-24.00h

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ADA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. 2607-590 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h weekends 10.00-04.00h live music ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.063/7784-760 rv/wh 12.00-04.00h (live music) AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h club restoran

BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h international cuisine BANGKOK, Kej oslobođenja bb, mob. 064/112 34 52 rv/wh 10.00-1.00h BELA LAĐA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. 2600-222 rv/wh 11.00-02.00h CRNI PANTER, Savski kej bb ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h DIJALOG, Ušće bb, tel. 311-4847 rv/wh 10.00-01.00h DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467, rv/wh 12.00-1.00h (live music) KARIBI, Ušće bb, tel.2130-858 rv/wh 11.00-03.00h KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11 E, tel.3076-866 rv/wh 9.00-1.00h KLUB MAG, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel. 2698-398, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 rv/wh 11.00-23.00h KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 rv/wh 12.00-01.00h LAGUNA, Ušće bb, tel. 065/246-5539 rv/wh 14.00-23.00h MARINERO, Kej oslobođenja 11a, tel. 3165-953 rv/wh 10.00-02.00h (live music) OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel. 3195-905 rv/wh 09.00-01.00h (live music) italian cuisine PAŠA, Kej oslobođenja 7, tel. 612-119 rv/wh 10.00-24.00h riblji restoran PINGVIN, Savski kej bb, tel. 177-5577, rv/wh 10.00-1.00h PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 rv/wh 22.00-03.30h STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666 rv/wh 12.00-02.00h VIKTORIJA, Ušće bb, tel. 3132-566 rv/wh 11.00-02.00h VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 rv/wh 12.00-23.00h ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226, rv/wh 12.00-24.00h

MCDONALD’S RESTORANI – MCDONALD’S RESTAURANTS FONTANA (Mc Drive), Narodnih heroja 2, tel. 2699-012 PIRAMIDA, Jurija Gagarina 153, tel. 176-4353 POŽEŠKA, Požeška 98a, tel. 3544-473 RAKOVICA, Kneza Višeslava 45, 2322 090 SLAVIJA, Deligradska 2, tel. 2685-093 TERAZIJE, Terazije 27, tel. 3238-732 TIME OUT, Bul. Mihaila Pupina 85a, tel. 311-9577, rv/wh 00.00-24.00 ZELENI VENAC, Brankova (plato), tel. 2638-249 ZEMUN, Glavna 21, Zemun, tel. 197-511

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HOTELI – HOTELS ALEKSANDAR PALAS, Kralja Petra 13-15, tel. 3305-300, fax.3305-334 CONTINENTAL HOTEL BEOGRAD, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel. 2204-204 fax 311-1402 HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 fax 311-2234 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235 ADMIRAL CLUB, Venizelosova 31, tel.3038-260 BALKAN, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 fax 2687-581 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3090-401 fax 3095-501 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3054-100, 3054-203 HOLIDAY INN,Španskih boraca 74, tel. 3100000, fax. 3100100 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 fax 310-5351 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 fax 2688-389 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Krađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 fax 184-458 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 fax 3057-466 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 3084 800fax 3442-931 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel.3314-800. fax 3314-801 ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 3650 100; fax 3650 140 BALKAN, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 fax 2687-581 ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 fax.2075-005 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 303 52 52 fax 3035-353 N, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 fax 3955-555 NACIONAL, Bežanijska kosa bb, tel. 2601-156 fax 2601-177 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 fax. 2561-090 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 fax. 3640-381 PRAG, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 3610-422 fax 3612-691 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 ROYAL, Kralja Petra I 56, tel. 2626-426 fax 2634-222 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 fax 2190-724 SLODES, Borska 92F, tel. 3055-518 fax 3056-524 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 fax 289-2462 SPLENDID, Dragoslava Jovanovića 5, tel 3235-444 fax 324-3298 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 fax 3224-480 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-199 fax 2645 361 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 fax 3231-951 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 fax 3162-648 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 3084 800 fax 2431-517 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-508 fax 3238-027 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670 fax 3540-669

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 fax 8230-077 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 PRESIDENT ****, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 fax 2075-260 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. 341-6131 SUČEVIĆ M ***,Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

MOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA MOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY 1000 Ruža, Bulevar JNA 6, Beli Potok, tel.390-6779 ŠARIĆ, Ibarski put 6, tel.832-5419 TARA, Zrenjaninski put 151b, tel.332-0591

APARTMENTS- APARTMANI City Hottels, Rableova1, tel. 3436-540 Kraljičini apartmani*****, Šure Daničića 13, tel.322-4318 Vila Kalemegdan, Strahinjića bana 7, tel.2637-856

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AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroﬂot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000, www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrianairlines.co.yu BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.co.yu MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879 QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166 www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/III, tel. 3035-738 SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 334-8264 www.srilankan.aero SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174 www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-7225 www.thy.com

DOMAĆE AVIO KOMPANIJE AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel. 2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRWAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel. 3112-123, www.jat.com

MEĐUNARODNI AUTOBUSKI SAOBRAĆAJ INTERNATIONAL BUS TRANSPORT BASTURIST, Železnička 4, tel.2627-146, Rezervacije – Reservation tel. 2622-526

MEĐUNARODNI ŽELEZNIČKI SAOBRAĆAJ INTERNATIONAL RAILWAY TRANSPORT Informacije - Information tel. 360-2899

RENT-A-CAR AUTO KUĆA KOLE, Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel.2286-360

Cara Dušana 209, tel.316- 8703 www.skoda-kole.com AUTOTEHNA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 94, tel. 2433-314, 2433-323 fax 2451-667 www.autotehna.com Obilićev venac 25, tel. 2620-362, 2629-423 Maksima Gorkog 30, tel. 245-7677, 3441-749, Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-133/136 AVACO, Trnska 7, tel. 2433-797 fax 344-0412 /www.avaco.co.yu BUDGET, Hotel Hyatt Regency, Proleterske solidarnosti 38, tel. 311-3050 fax.311-5214; rezervacije tel. 2137-703 Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-361 www.budget.co.yu INEX, Topličin venac 17, tel.2639-319 Južni bulevar 40, tel. 2452-160 Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-356 FAMILY, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 42a, tel. 301-3747 HERTZ- PUTNIK, Trg Nikole Pašića 1, tel. 3346-179 Palmira Toljatilja 9, Hotel Putnik, tel.2695-225, 3193-805 Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-017 www.hertz.co.yu MASTER, Hotel Slavija, Svetog Save 1, tel. 245-0842 ext. 4100 Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport tel. 2097-468 NACIONAL, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, Airport Nikola Tesla, tel./fax. 2286-413 Kralja Petra 64, tel./fax 3285-550, www.nationalcar-scg.com PRIMERO, Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport tel. 2286-362 /www.primero.co.yu Bul. AVNOJ-a 59, tel. 301-5004 Hotel Interkontinental, V. Popovića 10 tel 311 2910 REZIME , Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. 328-5701 www.rezime-rentacar.co.yu SKILL, Sava Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 3113-684, 136-830 STAR CAR, hotel Metropol, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel./fax 3035-200, mob. 063/358535 /www.starcar.co.yu UNIS kombi rental, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 54, tel. 3244-422 VIP, Humska 1, tel. 3691-890, 3690-890, Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport tel. 2286-245/ www.vip-rentacar.co.yu YU TIM, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 71, tel. 3118-861, 2692-339 mob.063/282-191 www.yutim.co.yu Aerodrom Beograd, Belgrade Airport, tel. 2286-161 mob.063/279-668 ZIM rent-a-car&minibus transfers, GSA (royal olympic cruises), Čubrina 6-8, tel.303-6500 www.zim-rentacar.com RENT-A-LIMO

ELITE LIMO- Luxury Limousine Service, tel.021/458-838 www.limo.co.yu LIMO SERVIS - Zemun, Cara Dušana 173, tel. 063/123 5555 www.limoservis.co.yu V.I.P. LIMO SERVICE - Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 10a, tel. 063/111 5466 www.viplimo.co.yu

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL

JP Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4000, 209-4444 www.beg.aero

Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel.2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.yu

FUDEKS, Balkanska 47, tel. 3620-255, fax 2686-602 www.fudeks.co.yu JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.co.yu

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.yu

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.co.yu

Železnička stanica Dunav - Railway Station Dunav, Đure Đakovića 39 tel. 3392-344 INFORMACIJE ZA VOZAČE

DRIVERS’ INFORMATION www.amsj.org.yu

Informativni centar AMSS - Information center AMSS, tel. 333-1100 Touring servis AMSJ Ruzveltova 16a, tel.SAOBRAĆAJU 9800 INORMACIJE O ,GRADSKOM Služba pomoći na putevima - Roadside repair, tel. 987 INFORMATION ON PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION GSP Beograd, Zmaj Jovina 41, tel. 2627-411, 2629-019 www.gsp.co.rs

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of Internal Aﬀairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.yu ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 rv/wr pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h,

Konzulat/ Consular Section rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-13.00h ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00 -15.00h

ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vase Pelagića 32, tel. 3693-270 fax 3690-191 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h

ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-15.30h

AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, fax. 635-606

Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, tel, 041/120-120 rv/wh pon-sre-čet/mon-wed-thu 9.00-17.00h

Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-11.00h AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Čika Ljubina 13, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-17.00h

BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.30-14.30h

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 09.00-17.00h

Konzulat/Consular section, , tel.3038-204 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-14.00h BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-14.30h BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.30h

Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454 CRNA GORA, Užička 1, tel./fax 2668-975, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 8.00-16.00h pet/fri 8.00-14.30h

Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 9.00-12.00h ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-14.00h

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - WAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9811 HITNA POMOĆ - EMERGENCY WARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - WEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9823 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAČNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .988 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

LINIJE GRADSKE ŽELEZNICE - CITY RAIL LINES ŽTP Beograd- BEOVOZ, Nemanjina 6, tel.361-4971 www.zeleznice srbije .co.yu Informacije - Information, tel. 337-0031, 337-0032

ŠLEP SLUŽBA - TOWING SERVICE 00-24h

Novi Beograd, Brodarska bb, Staro sajmište, tel. 301-70-70

TAKSI SLUŽBE- TAXI SERVICES ALFA, tel. 344-1100 ALO, tel. 3564-555 AURORA, tel. 3699-333 BEOTAXI, tel. 970, SMS 063,064/9700

116

BEOGRADSKI, tel. 9801 GOLD, tel. 3291-818 NBA, tel. 318-5777 MAXIS, tel. 9804 M TAXI, tel. 316-2626 NAXI-TAXI, tel. 2157-668

AUTUMN 2008 BelGuest

LUX, tel. 3030-123 PLAVI, tel. 3555-999 PINK, tel. 9803 ZELENI, tel. 324-6088 ŽUTI, tel. 9802

DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 rv/wh pon-pet/monfri 9.00-16.00h

EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9-15.00h FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-15.45h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-13.00h FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-13.00h & 15.00-17.00h

GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.30-15.30h GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića Bana 76, tel. 3341-507 GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-17.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-11.00h HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566 ,rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.00h INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-17.00h IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.30-17.00 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel. 3066-169 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-15.00h IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-15.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-12.00h JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.00h KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 fax 3063-042 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-16.30h Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163 KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-15.30h KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-13.00h

LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 9.00-16.30h pet/fri 8.00-14.00h

Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974

rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 8.30-15.30h pet/fri 8.30-13.00h

MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 328-50-76 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h

Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-12.00h (except Wednesday) MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-16.30h

MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 rv/wh 8.30-15.30h NAMIBIA/NAMIBIJA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303

rv/wh pon-čet/mon- thu 7.30-16.30h Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400 fax 3064-403 NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00-12.00h (except Wednesday) PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-17.00h PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085216 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-13.00h & 16.00-18.00h PERU/PERU, Terazije 1, tel. 322-1197 fax 3228-694 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel.2662-894 fax 2662-892 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.30-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh 10.00 - 13.00h REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Zadarska 2/II, tel. 2183-581 fax 303 6096 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 10.00h - 12.00h REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-12.00h, 13.30-16.30h RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-13.00h RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-17.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3613-964 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-12.00h SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.00h SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.0013.00h SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog Bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel.2666-124 fax 3440-221 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-14.30h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-11.30h SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-16.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 9.00-12.00h (except Friday)) SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 9.0017.00h pet/fri 9.00-16.00h ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.30h ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 8.00-16.00h, pet/fri 8.00-16.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, tel. 3065-815 ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.00h Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9-12.00h (except Wednesday) TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 3690-642 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-15.00h sub/sat 10.00-13.00h TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-17.30h Konzulat/Consular Section, rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-16.00h UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.00-17.00h Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 2660-247 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 9.00-12.00h VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 659-651 rv/wh pon-čet/mon-thu 8.00-16.30h pet/fri 8.00-13.00h UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3674-006 fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201 rv/wh pon-pet/mon-fri 8.30-16.30h

Kuhinje Projektovane Po Meri Evropski Dizajn Standard Kvalitet Vrhunska Tehnologija Izrade i Farbanja

Make Your Kitchen Work for You Custom Designed and Manufactured Kitchens European Design, Standard, Quality Distinctive Painting and Manufacturing Technology

Piramida Still 062 296 414 011 3087 187 Orlovićeva 130, 22400 Ruma

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs .co.yu

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE

ADDRESS REAL ESTATE JSCO SERBIA, Nemanjina 40/7, tel.365-00-90 www.address.co.yu AGENCIJA „HITPROM“, Strahinjića Bana 29, tel.303-3036, 303-3037 /www.hitprom.co.yu BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Đurđa 13, tel. 292 03 77 www. beyond-realestate.com BRADMORE CONSULTING & LEASING, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel./fax: 637-570 CB RICHARD ELLIS, Genex apartmani, A 305, V. Popovića, 222 3407, fax. 222 3646 CITY RENT, Beogradska 35, tel. 322 0 220, 322 6948 www.cityrent.co.yu COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL, Bulevar mira 20, tel. 2663-863, fax.3674-538 EURENT, Dobračina 21, tel.3038-662 EURORENT, Takovska 45, tel. 329 -31-61 EURODIPLOMATIC, Real Estate & Rental Agency, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, 308-68-79 mob.065/606 6 606

INVEST-IMPORT, Terazije 5, tel. 3220-027, 3248-081 MENTOR REAL ESTATE AGENCY, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, 308-90-81 fax.308-90-82/ www.mentorrent.co.yu

PC UŠĆE, EC, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 85b, tel. 3010-858 fax 3010-813 R.BeO CONSTRUCTION d.o.o, mob. 063/203-929 VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466 fax 2920-472 mob.062/282-434 www.vosmediator.co.yu

SPORT

PRIVREDNE KOMORE - CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Terazije 23, tel. 3248-123 PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Resavska 13-15, tel. 3300-900 www.pks.komora.net PRIVREDNA KOMORA BEOGRADA, Kneza Miloša 12, tel. 2641-355 www.kombeg.org.yu BANKE - BANKS NARODNA BANKA SRBIJE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. 3248-841/ www.nbs.rs UDRUŽENJE BANAKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN ASSOCIATON OF BANKS, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 86/II, tel. 3020-760/ www.usb-asb.com

BEOGRADSKA BERZA - BELGRADE STOCK EXCANGE Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. 3221-599/ www.belex.co.yu

HRAMOVI – TEMPLES www.spc.yu

KONSALTING – CONSULTING BID - Balkan Investments & Development, Knez Mihailova 2-4/VII tel. 303-2260, 262-3163 fax: 2626 870 www.bid-iﬁn.com

BC EXCEL (Arthur Andersen), Knez Mihailova 10/III, tel. 3281-288, 3281-808 www.bcexcel.co.yu DELOITTE & TOUCHE, Kralja Milana 16, tel. 3612-524, fax 3613-037 www.deloitte.com ERNST & YOUNG, Trg Republike 5/IV, tel. 3284-616 fax. 3284-559 www.ernst-young.com EURODIPLOMATIC, consulting, engineering&business services, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, 308-68-79 mob.065/606 6 606 www.eurodiplomatic.com

HD EUROPEAN CONSULTING GROUP, Francuska 5/III/8, tel. 2623-100, 324-8680 www.hd-ecg.com KPMG, Milentija Popovića 9,Sava Centar, D32-33 tel. 3281-719 www.kpmg.co.yu PRICEWATERSHOUSECOOPERS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3302-100, fax. 3302-101 www.pwcglobal.co./yu

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 /www.savacentar.com

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FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIČKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 ZEMUNELO, Mostarska 12, Zemun, tel. 3164-493 PAINTBALL KLUB- PAINTBALL CLUB UNREAL, tel. 2427-624, 064/119-5597 rv/wh 16-20h, sub-ned/Sat-Sun 12-20h SKVOŠ TERENI – SQUASH COURTS Squash land, Kneza Višeslava 27,Pionirski grad, Košutnjak, tel.3548-040, rv/wh 10-23h www.squashland.com

BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.yu

JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835 LEDENA DVORANA - ICE HALL PIONIR, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.766-667 HALE SPORTOVA - SPORT CENTERS BEOGRADSKA ARENA, Novi Beograd, Španskih boraca 20, tel. 2133-516 DOM SPORTOVA “PINKI”, Gradski park 2, Zemun, tel. 3160-270 CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU “VRAČAR”, Sjenička 1, tel. 452-342 CENTAR ZA KULTURU I SPORT “ŠUMICE”, Ustanička 125, tel. 289-4533 GRADSKI CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU, Deligradska 27, tel. 658-747 SRC “TAŠMAJDAN”, Ilije Garašanina 26-28, tel.3240-901 SRC “PIONIRSKI GRAD”, Kneza Višeslava 27, tel. 3542-094 SC “25. MAJ”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. 2622-866 SRC “BANJICA”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 SC “VOŽDOVAC”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-780 SC “ZVEZDARA”, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 412-353 SC “KOŠUTNJAK”, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 555-461 SC “PIONIR”, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.766-566 SRC “11. APRIL”, Autoput 2, Novi Beograd, tel. 2671-547 PALATA SPORTOVA, Pariske komune 20, tel. 601-658 PRSC TA “BALAŠEVIĆ”, Miška Kranjca 17a, tel.3510-920, 3583-809 www.balasevic-ta.co.yu - sa smeštajnim kapacitetima

ZABAVA - ENTERTAINMENT KAZINA – CASINOS ALEKSANDAR, Čumićevo sokače 55, tel. 324-3111 Bulevar despota Stefana 1, tel. 3346-060

FAIR PLAY, Hotel Kasina, Terazije 25, tel. 323-3613 FILM, Kneza Miloša 9, tel. 324-1290 GRAND CASINO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 319 43 95 Hotel METROPOL, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69, tel. 323-0911 Hotel SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 244-4632 LONDON, Kralja Milana 28, tel. 2688-530 MERIDIAN, Mihajla Pupina 10b, tel. 3317-931 PARTIZAN, Dr Milutina Ivkovića 2, tel. 2648-680 RUSKI CAR, Obilićev venac 29, tel. 2635-873

KUPOVINA – SHOPPING ZLATARE - JEWELERS JOKIĆ JEWELRY&WATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAJDANPEK, Makedonska 5, tel. 3343-251 MAESTRO JEWELERS, Continental hotel Beograd, tel. 311-1459, 311-3333 ext.721 Kolarčeva 4, tel. 303 30 91 NEW YORK FINE JEWELERY, Hotel Hyatt Regency Belgrade, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1204

PERIĆ&PERIĆ, Beograd, Požeška 150, tel.3543-790 Požarevac, Dunavska 116, tel.012/554-081 VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZEPTER JEWELERY, Kralja Petra I 32, tel. 328-1414 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990 GARDEN CENTAR- GARDEN CENTER Vidikovački venac 102a, tel.2322-322 www.gardencentar.co.yu

SUVENIRI – SOUVENIR SHOPS BEOIZLOG, Knez Mihailova 6, tel.2631-721 BEOSUVENIR, Jug Bogdanova 2, tel.2631-423 Terazijski prolaz bb (između hotela Moskva i Balkan)

ETNO DUĆAN, Studentski trg 13, tel. 328-1888 ETNO MAGAZ IN GRAL, Zetska 13, tel. 3246-583 MILMA ART CENTAR, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 2634-840 SINGIDUNUM, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. 2185-323 TD ZEMUN, Zmaj Jovina 14, tel. 2192-094 ZDRAVO ŽIVO, Terazijski prolaz, mob.063/ 878-5988

CIGAR SHOP LA CASA DEL HABANO, Kneginje Zorke 2, tel. 011 3830 533, 3830 534, fax 3830 545, casa@julieta.biz

USLUGE - SERVICES INTERNACIONALNA ŠPEDICIJA /INTERNATIONAL TRANSPORT AES CARGO/MOVE ONE, Autoput Beograd-Novi Sad 294a, Zemun, tel. 848-7088, 848-7089 AGS Belgrade, Niški autoput 17, tel. 3472-321 fax. 3472-332 ALLIED PICKFORDS, Žarka Obreškog 23, Zemun, tel. 848-7744, fax. 8486-868 BIRD EXPRESS, Ljutice Bogdana 1a, tel. 235-1631, 2664-224 INTER BROKER, Knežopoljska 1, tel. 339-2253 RE/MAX Relocation Europe, Mileševska 59, tel. 2453 351 EKSPRES POŠTA - EXPRESS MAIL CITY EXPRESS, Kumodraška 240, tel. 3093-000 DHL, Omladinskih brigada 86, tel. 310-5500 FEDEX, Autoput 22, tel. 3149-075 KURIR-EXPRESS, Čelopečka 19/10, tel. 2402-547 POST EXPRESS, Takovska 2, tel. 3607-607 SKUTER, Otona Župančiča 19, tel.2197-562, 063/7113-254 TNT, Venizelosova 29, tel. 3332-555 UPS, Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla”, tel. 209-4000 lok. 2112 WORLD COURIER, Kablarska 10, tel/fax: 2653-562, 2650-881 PREVODILAČKE USLUGE ASOCIJACIJA PREVODILACA SRBIJE/ TRANSLATORS ASSOCIATION OF SERBIA, Kičevska 9, tel. 444-2997

INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES, www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525

INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.yu BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557 BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 13, tel.2666669, fax 3066-892 www.british-int-school.org.uk

CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 fax.3675-340 www.chartwellinternational.org BelGuest AUTUMN 2008

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DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135 ECOLE FRANCAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762 INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL BELGRADE, Nake Spasić 4, tel.2667-130 www.insb.co.yu INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel. 3690-113, 2651-832 www.isb.co.yu

LOGOS, Kvarnerska 4, tel./fax 3693-059, 3693-060 www.logosinternationalschool.com PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL BELGRADE, Prahovska 3, tel./fax 369-0825 www.primainterschoolbelgrade.com

RUSSIAN SCHOOL, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 163-883 ŠKOLE STRANIH JEZIKA – FOREIGN LANGUAGES SCHOOLS CHELSEA, Svetozara Markovića 37, tel. 3232-467, 3235-531 GALINDO, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 311-4568 www.inlingua.net.yu ILIJA M. KOLARAC FOREIGN LANGUAGE CENTER, Studentski trg 5, tel. 636-991 MOBILNI OPERATORI / MOBILE OPERATORS 063 TELENOR, Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. 063/9863 www.telenor.co.yu 064 TELEKOM SRBIJA, Makedonska 2, tel. 064/789 /www.telekom.yu 060 VIP MOBILE, Omladinskih brigada 21, 060/1234 www.vipmobile.co.yu BILET SERVIS - TICKET SERVICE BILET SERVIS, Trg Republike 5, tel. 30 333 11, 063/ 33 70 33 pon-pet 9-21h / mon-fri 9.00-21.00h / sub-sat 9.00-15.00h www.biletservis.co.yu

EVENTIM YU D.O.O., Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 113, ulaz 3, Novi Beograd, tel./fax 144-438 www.eventim-yu.com

TICKETLINE, Prodajno mesto - ugao Knez Mihailove i Čika Ljubine-Plato Music Store, tel.2030-570, rv/wh pon-sub/mon-sat 9.00-20.00h ned/sun 12.00-18.00h www.ticketline.co.yu

TIKET SERVIS, mob. 065/888 0 555, www.tiketservis.com

FOTOGRAFSKI STUDIO - PHOTO STUDIO NIKOLAŠEVIĆ, Njegoševa 53, tel. 2457-797 /www.fotostudionikolasevic.co.yu fotonikolasevic@yahoo.com

MARKETING MOĆ MEDIJA, PR, Marketing agencija, Mihaila Todorovica 18 tel./fax: 3753853, 063/263 438 www.mocmedia.co.yu

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 DEŽURNI ZUBARI - EMERGENCY DENTISTS NOVI BEOGRAD, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. 2222-100 STARI GRAD, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 2635- 236, 24-hour VRAČAR, Ivana Milutinovića 15, tel. 244-1413, 24-hour APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 3065-888, Koste Jovanovića 87, tel.309-1000 EPILION, Admirala Geprata 13, tel. 361-1420, 361-0015 JEVREMOVA, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. 328-1051, 638-265 KLINIKA PETKOVIĆ, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDIKOM, Braničevska 8/1, tel. 3443-781, 3089-186 PAPIĆ, Milovana Marinkovića 23, tel. 397-1772, 397-4484 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 POLIMED, Cvijićeva 24, tel. 3291-787 VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436