Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Magazine #83

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Anti-Aging

Spa

Lifestyle Relaxation & Health Therapies

s k i n v i t a l i t y b o d y b a l a n c e



A Professional take on SPA Business, Health Therapies, Products & Simple Relaxation 2021*ISSUE*83

C O N T E N T S *83

Esthetiques, France

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Cherr y – Les Nouvelles

s k i n v i t a l i t y b o d y b a l a n c e

Anti-Aging And Aesthetic Medicine: Multibillion Dollar Industry 2 My 10 Keys to Successful Aging 4 The Anti-Aging Secrets Dermatologists Tell Their Friends 6 Injectables and the Future 8 18 Ingredients a Clean Cosmetic Chemist Would Avoid 10 What Is ‘Emotional’ Beauty 12 5 Natural Anti-Aging Secrets From Around The World 14 Is Metabolism the Key to Disease and Aging? 16 National Survey Reveals How Pandemic Has Impacted Beauty 18 Digital Transformation In Fashion, Luxury And Beauty 20 Stem Cell Collagen Activators 24 The Best 8 Ways To Boost Your Immune System 28 Boost Your Immune System With These Foods 30 The Gut-Brain Connection: How It Works + How to Support It 32 Topical Vitamin D: A Superhero Solution 34 Lion’s Mane Mushroom: The Potential Powerhouse 36 The Gua Sha Facial 38 Can Health Tech ‘Extend’ Life? 40 Anti-Oxy-What? 42 Sustainable, Beauty and the Spa Industry. Q&A with Davines Group 44 The “Fitness Market” Is Far Bigger Than Gyms and Boutique Studio 48 Dispelling Ageist Myths In The Workplace 50 Our attitude to massage is wrong - we need to turn it on its head! 56 Why The Spa Industry Needs To Invest In Education 58 Are You Building Strong ‘Wellness Partnerships’? 60 Four curves we need to start flattening now 62 Tips for Becoming a Successful Beauty Entrepreneur 64 What is Triple Bottom Line 66 Ancient Beauty Secrets 68

E d i t o r s

W e l c o m e

What does anti-aging mean to you and your clients? The main focus of anti-aging benefit is prevention. Experts recommend the use of anti-aging routines and products in as early as your 20s. After all, as the saying goes, prevention is better than cure. Using anti-aging routines and products before signs become fully visible it is an effective way to slow down the aging process and delay its onset. Studies reveal aging is a multifactorial process and depends on both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Procedural options for diminishing signs of intrinsic aging and cosmetic rejuvenation have expanded dramatically. However, less attention is paid to counseling clients on options for mitigating extrinsic factors related to aging. Conventional cosmetic procedures and cosmeceuticals work together with nutritious diet, exercise, dental hygiene, hormonal balance, stress reduction, smoking and pollution avoidance, and healthy sleep patterns for a better effect on antiaging. Concluding that a combination approach of multiple nonsurgical modalities along with healthy lifestyle recommendations to minimize intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors allows to target multiple facets of aging concurrently and maximize the aesthetic interventions therapists and practitioners provide. Enjoy the read !

Dr. Nadine de Freitas Les Nouvelles Esthetiques International Publisher I 7, avenue Stephane Mallarme 75017 PARIS Tel: 01 43 80 06 47 Fax: 01 43 80 83 63 www.nouvelles-esthetiques.com I Fondateur : H. Pierantoni I Directeur de la Publications: Jeannine Cannac-Pierantoni I Redactrice en chef: Michéle de Lattre-Pierantoni I International Editions • Argentina • Baltic • Benelux • Brazil • Bulgaria • Canada • China • France • Greece • Hong Kong • Hungary • Israel • Italy • Japan • Mexico • Poland • Portugal • Romania • Singapore • South Africa • Spain • Taiwan • Turkey • Ukraine • USA • Yugoslavia Les Nouvelles Esthétiques South African Edition I Max Cafe P. O. Box 81204, Parkhurst Johannesburg, South Africa 2120 I Tel: +27 83 267 2773 e-mail: info@lesnouvelles.co.za www.lesnouvelles.co.za I Publisher/Creative Director : Anthony de Freitas e-mail: tony@maxcafe.co.za I Managing Editor : Dr. Nadine de Freitas e-mail: nadine@maxcafe .co.za I Editor ial Assistant: Sarene Kloren editor ial @lesnouvelles.co.za I Adver tising Enquir ies: Dr Nadine de Freitas e-mail: info@lesnouvelles.co.za I Subscription Enquiries: Tel: +27 83 267 2773 e-mail: info@lesnouvelles.co.za or visit: www.lesnouvelles.co.za


spa therapies

Anti-Aging And Aesthetic Medicine: The Silent Rise Of This Multibillion Dollar Industry By Sai Balasubramanian, M.D., J.D. Aging is an inevitable phenomenon. Over the last 40 years, there has been an incredible focus on the aesthetics of aging, particularly with an emphasis on cosmetic anti-aging therapies. These efforts have faced their share of controversy, as scientists continue to debunk false advertising and anti-aging therapies that are not backed by evidence-based medicine. Nonetheless, regardless of the controversy, an entire industry and therapeutic cosmos has silently grown around the promise of aesthetic rejuvenation. The anti-aging market is positioned to reach $271 billion by 2024. Studies report that anti-wrinkle products alone will reach $12.8 billion dollars in market share by 2027. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons also noted the growth in rates of cosmetic surgery procedures from the year 2000 to 2018: breast augmentation procedures increased by 48%, abdominoplasty (“tummy tuck”) procedures were up by 107%, and most notably, the use of Botox injections increased by an astounding 845%. According to this report, there has been an overall increase by 163% in the number of total cosmetic procedures from the year 2000 to 2018. Indeed, these startling figures not only indicate the immense value of this market, but also point to an industry that shows no signs of slowing down. Congruently, healthcare providers and practices have also benefited from this immense growth. An Allegran/BSM Medical Aesthetics Database study found that revenues have steadily increased for medical aesthetic and dermatology practices/clinics across the USA, due in large part to providers offering more varied aesthetic services and hiring staff dedicated solely to this business. Industry growth is likely also due to the fact that the practice of cosmetic medicine, which was once a domain reserved solely for dermatologists and plastic surgeons, is now being practiced by other specialists; in a 2014 survey, it was reported that upto 22% of family physicians are now providing some form of cosmetic and aesthetic medicine in their practices. Thus, this phenomenon is permeating all aspects of the modern healthcare practice.

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

However, as with any multibillion dollar industry that undergoes dramatic and exponential growth, the rapid rise of the anti-aging market has caused controversy. In 2008, a group of 51 scientists published a groundbreaking scientific report, raising concerns around the lack of scientific and evidencebased medicine behind some anti-aging treatments. More recently, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration is similarly attempting to address concerns in this area, warning consumers about sham products and cosmetic myths. Fortunately, there is a growing scientific community that is focused on educating the public about evidence-based antiaging strategies and techniques, so that consumers are well informed and aware of genuine, scientifically proven therapies. Ultimately, however, in order to responsibly grow this industry, certain parameters need to be maintained. As with any other medical procedure or pharmaceutical product, regulators and practitioners alike need to be increasingly wary of new or untested products that claim to have antiaging effects without significant evidence-based backing. The same should be said about the practice of actually administering these products to patients. Anti-aging therapy should be considered a form of medical practice, and as with any form of medicine, it is imperative that governing bodies place strict standards of competency, training, and technical pre-requisites prior to allowing practitioners to administer these therapies on their own accord. These steps will certainly be necessary in the coming decades, as there is no doubt that public demand will continue to fuel this phenomenon. However, maintaining close oversight and a strict emphasis on evidenced-based medicine, is the only way to ensure the safe, sustainable, and patientcentered growth of this robust industr y.


spa therapies

Anti-Aging And Aesthetic Medicine: The Silent Rise Of This Multibillion Dollar Industry By Sai Balasubramanian, M.D., J.D. Aging is an inevitable phenomenon. Over the last 40 years, there has been an incredible focus on the aesthetics of aging, particularly with an emphasis on cosmetic anti-aging therapies. These efforts have faced their share of controversy, as scientists continue to debunk false advertising and anti-aging therapies that are not backed by evidence-based medicine. Nonetheless, regardless of the controversy, an entire industry and therapeutic cosmos has silently grown around the promise of aesthetic rejuvenation. The anti-aging market is positioned to reach $271 billion by 2024. Studies report that anti-wrinkle products alone will reach $12.8 billion dollars in market share by 2027. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons also noted the growth in rates of cosmetic surgery procedures from the year 2000 to 2018: breast augmentation procedures increased by 48%, abdominoplasty (“tummy tuck”) procedures were up by 107%, and most notably, the use of Botox injections increased by an astounding 845%. According to this report, there has been an overall increase by 163% in the number of total cosmetic procedures from the year 2000 to 2018. Indeed, these startling figures not only indicate the immense value of this market, but also point to an industry that shows no signs of slowing down. Congruently, healthcare providers and practices have also benefited from this immense growth. An Allegran/BSM Medical Aesthetics Database study found that revenues have steadily increased for medical aesthetic and dermatology practices/clinics across the USA, due in large part to providers offering more varied aesthetic services and hiring staff dedicated solely to this business. Industry growth is likely also due to the fact that the practice of cosmetic medicine, which was once a domain reserved solely for dermatologists and plastic surgeons, is now being practiced by other specialists; in a 2014 survey, it was reported that upto 22% of family physicians are now providing some form of cosmetic and aesthetic medicine in their practices. Thus, this phenomenon is permeating all aspects of the modern healthcare practice.

2

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

However, as with any multibillion dollar industry that undergoes dramatic and exponential growth, the rapid rise of the anti-aging market has caused controversy. In 2008, a group of 51 scientists published a groundbreaking scientific report, raising concerns around the lack of scientific and evidencebased medicine behind some anti-aging treatments. More recently, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration is similarly attempting to address concerns in this area, warning consumers about sham products and cosmetic myths. Fortunately, there is a growing scientific community that is focused on educating the public about evidence-based antiaging strategies and techniques, so that consumers are well informed and aware of genuine, scientifically proven therapies. Ultimately, however, in order to responsibly grow this industry, certain parameters need to be maintained. As with any other medical procedure or pharmaceutical product, regulators and practitioners alike need to be increasingly wary of new or untested products that claim to have antiaging effects without significant evidence-based backing. The same should be said about the practice of actually administering these products to patients. Anti-aging therapy should be considered a form of medical practice, and as with any form of medicine, it is imperative that governing bodies place strict standards of competency, training, and technical pre-requisites prior to allowing practitioners to administer these therapies on their own accord. These steps will certainly be necessary in the coming decades, as there is no doubt that public demand will continue to fuel this phenomenon. However, maintaining close oversight and a strict emphasis on evidenced-based medicine, is the only way to ensure the safe, sustainable, and patientcentered growth of this robust industr y.


spa lifestyle

My 10 Keys to Successful Aging By Marc Middleton - Growing Bolder Successful aging in an ageist culture is not easy. And there is no right or wrong way to do it. Growing Bolder CEO Marc Middleton offers 10 keys to successful aging that he has learned from active, happy and healthy, men and women in their 80s 90s and 100s.

speed of our recovery afterward, are determined by our health and wellbeing at the time — not by our age. That makes regular exercise, better nutrition, good sleeping habits, and stress reduction aging’s ultimate no-brainer. 3. Adapt and accommodate.

There are some who say that we should never use the term successful aging. They believe it’s ageist because it turns aging into a binary event: either you’re a success at it or you’re a failure. I think that’s absurd. Success is different for all of us, and we each have the right to define it for ourselves. Teaching kindergarten and shaping young minds might represent success to one person, while running a global corporation might represent success to another. What makes a successful marriage, business or vacation? You get to choose. Likewise, you get to decide what successful aging means to you. For me, the broad strokes are pretty simple. I want to remain active, healthy, productive, and independent for as long as I can. I want to be available for whatever new opportunities and experiences might present themselves. I want to be able to say, “Yes!” These 10 keys will, I believe, dramatically increase my odds because they’re informed by two decades of studying, interviewing and learning from hundreds of ordinary people living extraordinary lives into their 80s, 90s, and even 100s. These are the lessons I’ve learned from active centenarians and the other Rock Stars of Aging®. 1. Change your belief system about what’s possible. This is job No. 1, because we live in an ageist culture that leads us to fear and resent growing older. The damage is quickly passed from our minds into our bodies. We anticipate the perceived negative benchmarks of aging so strongly that we all but guarantee that they’ll come to pass. What the mind believes, the body embraces.

The single most common denominator shared by those who live active lives into their 90s and 100s is loss. The key is not to mourn what’s lost but to celebrate what remains. To not identify with limitation but rather identify with possibility. To adapt to and accommodate the loss. Grandma Moses had a passion for embroidery. She had to give it up in her late 70s after developing a debilitating case of arthritis. She could have easily lost a creative passion that gave her life purpose. Instead, she took up painting because her arthritic fingers could still hold a big brush. The rest is art history. She remained happily engaged in something she loved until her death at 101. 4. Have purpose in your life. Purpose fuels the life force. It’s important to have something that gets us out of bed every morning. We need unfinished business. It’s common to hear about people passing away not long after retiring from a lengthy career or following the death of a spouse. That’s largely because the job or the relationship provided purpose. Your purpose doesn’t have to be profound. It must simply move you to action. It could be painting, as it was for Grandma Moses. 5. Be curious and never stop learning. Curiosity leads directly to lifelong learning: the ongoing, self-motivated pursuit of knowledge. Lifelong learning helps us adapt to change and stay in the job market. It promotes brain health, creates social connection, increases happiness, reduces stress, and leads to a multi-dimensional life. 6 Love.

2. Prehabilitate. Prehabilitation is simply positive lifestyle modification. It’s preparing for the inevitable health challenges and physical setbacks that are part of the human condition. The types of interventions available to us when we suffer those setbacks, and the extent and

The two most common questions we ask ourselves just before death are: “Was I loved?” and “Did I love?” In other words, love is the true source of happiness. It’s also an important component of health. Research has proven that love raises our immunity, lowers our blood pressure, and reduces stress and depression. And it doesn’t have to

be the romantic kind of love. Close friendships and loving family have the same effect. 7. Stay socially engaged. We’re social animals who are hardwired to engage with others. It’s in our DNA. When we’re separated from the herd, we decline rapidly. Social relationships have a profound influence on mental and physical health, mortality risk, and longevity. It’s important to pick our friends wisely, though, because healthrelated attitudes — positive and negative — spread rapidly throughout social networks. Active, healthy, happy friends are the vaccine against sickness, depression and cognitive decline. Community is immunity. 8. Avoid Negativity. Much has been written about the power of positive thinking but little about the power of negative thinking. Research reveals that negative begets negative far more than positive begets positive. While positive thinking alone won’t ensure the success of any endeavor, negative thinking alone will quickly doom it. Negative thinking leads directly to anxiety, low self-esteem, lack of self-confidence, unhealthy behaviors, and ultimately, sickness. As we age, positivity is important but avoiding negativity is crucial. 9. Say Yes. Be an Amateur. As we age, we have to resist the urge to regress into that which is comfortable and familiar. We have to continue to say “Yes!” to life. We have to be willing to risk embarrassment, social unease, and failure. To be afraid to fail is to be afraid to live. Forget perfection. Develop a beginner’s mindset, which is open to new ideas and possibilities and understands that failure is nothing more than important feedback. 10. Carpe the Hell Out of This Diem. This is my one key that incorporates all the others: Never let an opportunity pass you by, because none of us know what’s around the corner. I don’t believe that when one door closes another one opens. I believe that when you stop opening doors, the ones you’ve already opened begin to close. Don’t sit back. Lean in. Carpe the hell out of this diem.



spa innovation

The Anti-Aging Secrets Dermatologists Tell Their Friends By Kristin Perrotta Having a dermatologist on speed dial falls under the “wouldn’t it be nice” department of life. But since most of don’t have a derm in our friend circle, we asked Dr. Doris Day, a clinical associate professor of dermatology at the New York University Langone Medical Centers, to fill us in on the anti-aging secrets she bestows upon those lucky enough be on a firstname basis. These five insider insights can have a huge impact on your pursuit of a clear, younger-looking complexion. Consider them your skin’s new BFFs.

Cut Sugar Out of Your Diet RIGHT NOW “Sugar is inflammatory, and inflammation causes you to age faster. It causes a hardening of the skin, wrinkles, and a look of sallowness or blotchiness,” says Day. “Your skin just looks stressed and tired when you’re eating a diet that includes simple sugars and highly processed foods.” The good news is that you can still have sweets without sacrificing your youth—just make sure they’re in the form of fresh fruit. (But sadly, candy, cereals, and cookies packed with high-fructose corn syrup will date you faster than a quote from a John Hughes movie.) “When you drop the refined sugar from your diet, your skin looks so much better and brighter in a matter of days.”

Antioxidants are the True Skin Saviors “They’re so powerful from an anti-aging perspective” when ingested and applied to your skin, says Day. “Antioxidants help your skin defend itself from insult— from UV rays, from pollution, from stress, and from the bad sugars you end up eating anyway.” Load up on foods that are high in antioxidants, like

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blueberries, spinach, tomatoes, beans (you know the list), and slather on an antioxidant cream or serum morning and night (Day prefers formulas with a blend of different antioxidants). Make sure to also add a supplement to your routine; Day says she takes several, including one containing the powerful “wine” antioxidant resveratrol.

You’re Probably Not Wearing Enough Sunscreen “My minimum SPF is 30, but the higher the better, because no one is really applying enough or reapplying it often enough, and the higher SPFs give you a little more protection,” she says. “It’s a small percentage difference, but that difference is still significant—and I’ll take what I can get.” In addition to SPFs as high as 100, Day loves the new breed of sunscreens that are reinforced with skin-protective antioxidants and DNA-repair enzymes to help fight against UV damage. She’s also developed a few tricks for packing on as much protection as possible. “Since you really need a dime-size amount of sunscreen for your face and another dime-size for your neck and chest, apply it in two layers. Rub it on, wait until it dries, and then do it again to make sure that you’re getting enough.” She also recommends “[smoothing] on sunscreen from the peripheries of your face toward the center, because you’re always going to get more to cover your nose and the upper lip, but you will not always go back to get more to cover the skin along your hairline and in front of your ears.” Don’t forget your chest and neck, she cautions, including the sides and back of the neck. “Even if you have long hair, because that area ages, too.” Day recommends applying sunscreen before putting on your clothes each day. And don’t leave home

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

or drive without covering the backs of your hands. Day even tells her friends to wear sun-protective gloves when they’re behind the wheel.

Beauty Sleep is a Real Thing Getting eight hours of sleep isn’t just a break for your mind—it’s the equivalent of a spa getaway for your skin, allowing it the time and conditions it needs to undo some of the damage it incurred from the environment and your less-than-stellar habits throughout your day. “At night, your stress hormone, cortisol, goes down, and your growth hormone levels go up,” says Day. “This shift allows for [cellular] repair.” And be sure to wipe off all your makeup before crashing; along with the pollution and general grime that accumulates on your skin during the day, sleeping with makeup on will only lead to more damage.

The Fountain of Youth May Actually be a Fast “I’m a big fan of intermittent fasting,” says Day. “That means a 12 to 14-hour-a-day fast—eight hours as you’re sleeping at night and then two to three hours on either side of that. It helps regulate metabolism and energy even more than sleep, and that allows the skin to repair itself.” Taking a break from late-night snacks will not only help you drop a size over time, but it also “optimizes your skin’s ability to function properly in terms of barrier repair and everything else,” says Day. “You’ll notice that your skin ages better with this type of fasting. It’s firmer, it stays better hydrated, and it withstands insults better against pollution and UV rays.”



spa therapies

The whole world is in chaos, everything is different, and nothing will ever be the same again. Lockdown and its devastating financial consequences have affected all walks of life. As aesthetic medical practitioners, we were all similarly affected by the evaporation of patients and income. The lifting of restrictions has, however, allowed us to tiptoe our way back to the "new normal" gingerly. This reset, though, will not be easy, and we will need to adjust our processes to the evolving situation. The words of Warren Buffet: "You never know who's swimming naked until the tide goes out" is now more real than ever. All businesses closed over the lockdown; many may never reopen. The mask and social distancing regulations have changed the way that we interact, affecting our relationships as well as how we live and work. Businesses, once profitable, are now restricted by social distancing and are no longer viable. Aesthetic practices in these trying times are not spared. Unless we embrace the new reality and adapt our mindset as well as skillset, we will be found wanting. It is now more apparent than ever that Injectables are the new future of Aesthetics. This was driven home to me after being exposed to countless webinars over the last two months. This time exiled from my Plastic Surgery practice has allowed me the time to consolidate various advances and novel approaches in the field of Aesthetic Medicine. The new concepts delivered by Dr Mauricio de Maio regarding the utilization of Aging Trigger Points (ATP) to delay ageing and prolong youth were ground-breaking.

Injectables and the Future By Dr. Vernon Ching - Plastic and Cosmetic Surgeon

The lunchtime Toxin/Filler fast-food approach is over as patients need to be educated to a deeper understanding of their requirements and maintenance rather than a quick fix of two or three areas that so many of them experienced before. A measured focussed approach is essential. This is evident in all the webinars seen to date. Lockdown has forced most of our patients to stay home. This has allowed many to watch countless YouTube videos and experiment with makeup enhancing certain features and downplaying their less desirable ones. The perception of beauty has changed over time, and the concept of light and shade has altered our awareness of attractiveness. I

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

have realized that the concept of beauty in women changes with ageing, from innocence in youth to confidence in the twenties, to possibly the femme fatale in the thirties. Before one injects, one needs to assess each patient individually. Who they are, what's their age, what do they do for a job, what's their relationship status, where they are in their lives, and where are they going? Patients buy makeup and use light and shade to improve their looks. As Aesthetic specialists, we can use the application of makeup to drive our injection strategies. Makeup defines features such as the jawline, highlights the forehead and cheeks, can make a face look thinner, and hides imperfections. The future of injectables is to follow the beautification trends in makeup, fashion, the use of photoshop and filters and our patients' social media projections. Makeup is an illusion and injectables a long term reality that doesn't wash off or take an hour to apply. Facial skeletal ageing with bone loss results in a relative excess of soft tissue. To restore balance, harmony, symmetry and smooth transition zones, one needs to safely inject deficient areas with fillers then maintain these results regularly over time. The aim in my practice is to make a better version of you rather than to sell you a syringe of filler every few months to "correct "an isolated feature. Recent advances in Injectables has allowed us the opportunity to not only alter the static face but also to change and modify muscle movement and consequently, our expressions. This concept of myomodulation can be performed chemically with Botulinum toxin or physically with Fillers which is more subtle and have a longer duration of action. We are no longer treating for beauty but instead for honesty, integrity and making our patients look how they feel inside. We can change angry, tired, sad, saggy and moody expressions, by treating the perioral and periocular areas. To make our patients look happy, healthy, approachable, trustworthy and able to communicate better. We really have to see injectables through a different lens or rather see the familiar with new eyes so we can deliver what our patients need. Rather than following a commoditized list, we should tailor our treatment by teaching and showing our patients what we envisage; using shadow and light. Light is used to amplify the convexities of youth and shadow

to create a dramatic slimming effect, thus creating balance and beauty at rest and in motion. Individually planned treatments can be performed over 2-3 months to attain the final result. Each treatment uses a minimal amount of product ( 2-3 syringes) to achieve specific endpoints. These being to build a suitable foundation to the jawline and chin, contour the cheek and temple then refine the periocular and perioral areas. The last step is to use a skin booster to rehydrate and invigorate the skin. Because of the restrictions placed on us by our current circumstances, it is my opinion that many more patients will avoid facial surgery if possible. They will select the less invasive Filler option, that in the right hands can rejuvenate, restore and revive their appearance as well as uplift their spirits. The future is injectibles and Injectibles are the future!


spa therapies

The whole world is in chaos, everything is different, and nothing will ever be the same again. Lockdown and its devastating financial consequences have affected all walks of life. As aesthetic medical practitioners, we were all similarly affected by the evaporation of patients and income. The lifting of restrictions has, however, allowed us to tiptoe our way back to the "new normal" gingerly. This reset, though, will not be easy, and we will need to adjust our processes to the evolving situation. The words of Warren Buffet: "You never know who's swimming naked until the tide goes out" is now more real than ever. All businesses closed over the lockdown; many may never reopen. The mask and social distancing regulations have changed the way that we interact, affecting our relationships as well as how we live and work. Businesses, once profitable, are now restricted by social distancing and are no longer viable. Aesthetic practices in these trying times are not spared. Unless we embrace the new reality and adapt our mindset as well as skillset, we will be found wanting. It is now more apparent than ever that Injectables are the new future of Aesthetics. This was driven home to me after being exposed to countless webinars over the last two months. This time exiled from my Plastic Surgery practice has allowed me the time to consolidate various advances and novel approaches in the field of Aesthetic Medicine. The new concepts delivered by Dr Mauricio de Maio regarding the utilization of Aging Trigger Points (ATP) to delay ageing and prolong youth were ground-breaking.

Injectables and the Future By Dr. Vernon Ching - Plastic and Cosmetic Surgeon

The lunchtime Toxin/Filler fast-food approach is over as patients need to be educated to a deeper understanding of their requirements and maintenance rather than a quick fix of two or three areas that so many of them experienced before. A measured focussed approach is essential. This is evident in all the webinars seen to date. Lockdown has forced most of our patients to stay home. This has allowed many to watch countless YouTube videos and experiment with makeup enhancing certain features and downplaying their less desirable ones. The perception of beauty has changed over time, and the concept of light and shade has altered our awareness of attractiveness. I

8

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

have realized that the concept of beauty in women changes with ageing, from innocence in youth to confidence in the twenties, to possibly the femme fatale in the thirties. Before one injects, one needs to assess each patient individually. Who they are, what's their age, what do they do for a job, what's their relationship status, where they are in their lives, and where are they going? Patients buy makeup and use light and shade to improve their looks. As Aesthetic specialists, we can use the application of makeup to drive our injection strategies. Makeup defines features such as the jawline, highlights the forehead and cheeks, can make a face look thinner, and hides imperfections. The future of injectables is to follow the beautification trends in makeup, fashion, the use of photoshop and filters and our patients' social media projections. Makeup is an illusion and injectables a long term reality that doesn't wash off or take an hour to apply. Facial skeletal ageing with bone loss results in a relative excess of soft tissue. To restore balance, harmony, symmetry and smooth transition zones, one needs to safely inject deficient areas with fillers then maintain these results regularly over time. The aim in my practice is to make a better version of you rather than to sell you a syringe of filler every few months to "correct "an isolated feature. Recent advances in Injectables has allowed us the opportunity to not only alter the static face but also to change and modify muscle movement and consequently, our expressions. This concept of myomodulation can be performed chemically with Botulinum toxin or physically with Fillers which is more subtle and have a longer duration of action. We are no longer treating for beauty but instead for honesty, integrity and making our patients look how they feel inside. We can change angry, tired, sad, saggy and moody expressions, by treating the perioral and periocular areas. To make our patients look happy, healthy, approachable, trustworthy and able to communicate better. We really have to see injectables through a different lens or rather see the familiar with new eyes so we can deliver what our patients need. Rather than following a commoditized list, we should tailor our treatment by teaching and showing our patients what we envisage; using shadow and light. Light is used to amplify the convexities of youth and shadow

to create a dramatic slimming effect, thus creating balance and beauty at rest and in motion. Individually planned treatments can be performed over 2-3 months to attain the final result. Each treatment uses a minimal amount of product ( 2-3 syringes) to achieve specific endpoints. These being to build a suitable foundation to the jawline and chin, contour the cheek and temple then refine the periocular and perioral areas. The last step is to use a skin booster to rehydrate and invigorate the skin. Because of the restrictions placed on us by our current circumstances, it is my opinion that many more patients will avoid facial surgery if possible. They will select the less invasive Filler option, that in the right hands can rejuvenate, restore and revive their appearance as well as uplift their spirits. The future is injectibles and Injectibles are the future!


spa therapies When it comes to our beauty products, it might seem as though the list of ingredients to avoid is growing longer by the minute — but that's not to say you should demonize every ingredient brought up. Marketing has a lot to do with it, and new science comes out all the time offering evidencebased information about what is and isn't good for your skin. Then, of course, there's personal differences too. What may cause sensitivity for you might work for someone else. It's all about education, transparency, and nuance. Still, getting to know your ingredient labels is important.Yashi Shrestha, the research scientist and green cosmetic chemist behind clean beauty retailer NakedPoppy. She’s built a career out of spotlighting the ingredients that aren’t doing our bodies or the planet any favors. “A study by EWG notes that a woman applies about 168 different chemicals everyday,” she says. “This exposure accumulates over time and so it is important for people to opt for products that are cleaner and better for our health.” Thanks to a slow-evolving industry, this is often an uphill battle. “Unfortunately, cosmetics and personal care products have little government oversight, which means many products, and the ingredients used in today's beauty products, are not wellregulated,” she explains. This ultimately leaves the responsibility to the consumer to know what’s health and what’s not. (And if you’ve ever tried to discern the seven-syllable words on an ingredient label, you know that this is hardly an easy task.)

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

PFAs and PFCs. Remember how we said that the term “fragrance” can potentially be hiding hundreds of chemicals? Well, PFAs are a class of thousands. “They’re fluorinated chemicals that have been found in sunscreens, hair products, and shaving creams,” says Shrestha. “They’re linked to serious health effects, including cancer, thyroid disease, and even reduced effectiveness of vaccines.”

Polyethylene glycol (PEGs). On a similar note: Polyethylene glycol, “propylene glycol (PG) and butylene glycol (BG) could potentially be petroleum derived and irritating to the skin,” says Shrestha. These are chemical thickeners and can sometimes be found in cream-based products.

Teflon. Teflon is one specific PFA worth calling out— it’s the brand name for Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), and is sometimes added to cosmetics to improve the texture. But like other PFAs, it’s linked to hormone disruption and reproductive issues.

Siloxanes. Also known as cyclical silicones, these compounds are found in a variety of cosmetic and skincare products—but they’re not great for the environment, and have been linked with endocrine disruption as well. Triclosan. This antimicrobial ingredient (often found in hand sanitizers and antibacterial soap) has been linked to such a significant impact on the thyroid and reproductive hormones, that it’s banned in several countries. The US has moved to ban it from antiseptic soap, but it might still show up in deodorant, mouthwash, shaving cream, and toothpaste, says the EWG.

The good news? “Consumers are becoming more conscious about the environmental impact of certain ingredients, and clean beauty is evolving to have more visibility into the supply chain and sourcing of ingredients,” says Shrestha. That’s a beauty trend we can definitely get behind—and in the meantime, consider this your ultimate cheat sheet on the ingredients to avoid.

Ethanolamines. While these compounds (which are emulsifiers found in foundation, mascara, and skincare products) are technically classified as safe for cosmetic use by the EWG, they’re also shown to be allergens—something to keep in mind if you have sensitivities to certain ingredients. They might be listed as monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine (DEA), or triethanolamine (TEA).

Bookmark the below for your next beauty shop.

Oxybenzone. “This well-established endocrine disruptor can be found in many skincare products that contain sunscreen, including lotions, lip balms, cleansers, fragrance, and even baby products,” says Shrestha.

Formaldehyde. Despite decades of research that classifies formaldehyde as a known carcinogen,1 it’s still a fairly common ingredient in hair straightening products, nail polish, eyelash glue, and an array of other cosmetics. Thankfully, some retailers are starting to ban products that contain formaldehyde from their shelves.

18 Ingredients a Clean Cosmetic Chemist Would Avoid By Victoria Hoff

under the “fragrance” umbrella? That would be phtalates, which are sometimes used to help perfume stick to skin, as well as eyelash adhesive and nail polish. That’s bad news, because phtalates have been shown to be pretty significant endocrine disruptors—in some cases facilitating early puberty in girls and boys, and reduced sperm count in men. They’re also harmful to the environment? The EWG reports that some retailers have started to ban phtalate-containing products from their shelves, but we still recommend a healthy dose of skepticism when it comes to added fragrance.

But there’s a catch. “While formaldehyde has become a well-known toxic ingredient to avoid in beauty products, many don’t know about the lesser known ingredients that release formaldehyde which are formulated in cosmetics today,” says Shrestha. In other words, while it’s unlikely that you’ll see the word “formaldehyde” on an ingredient label, it might be hiding behind another name.

Octinoxate. This common sunscreen ingredient was thought originally to be harmful to coral reefs, and although that may have been recently proven false, it's still somewhat irritating to sensitive skin. Homosalate. “This is another chemical that’s commonly used in sunscreens as a UV absorber,” says Shrestha. While regulations are starting to wisen up to octinoxate and oxybenzone, homosalate is still pretty commonly used.

Formaldehyde releasers. “Bronopol, DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, and quaternium-15 are cosmetic preservatives that slowly form formaldehyde,” says Shrestha. In other words, steer clear if you can.

Toluene. This chemical (which also goes by the name of Butylated Hydroxytoluene, or BHT), is a big no-no: It’s linked with brain toxicity and can be especially dangerous during pregnancy. While it’s banned in the EU and Southeast Asia (as well as by a few retailers in the US), you can still find it nail polish, nail treatments and hair dye.

Synthetic fragrances. A heads-up: When an ingredient label simply says “fragrance” or “parfum,” it’s often an umbrella term for hundreds of chemicals that brands aren’t required to disclose. Phtalates. One such sneaky compound hiding

Talc. While talcum powder (often used as a smoothing agent in mineral makeup) is generally safe, it also has the potential to be contaminated with asbestos, which is a known carcinogen and instigator of lung disease.

If you commonly use waterproof mascara or eyeliner, take note: PFCs are big culprits here, because they’re water repellents.

Resorcinol. “This common ingredient in hair color and bleaching products has been linked to skin irritation and immune system dysfunction,” says Shrestha. “In animal studies, resorcinol can disrupt normal thyroid function.” Carbon black. The EWG has flagged this pigment (which is often found in mascara and eyeliner) because of its possible link to cancer with regard to inhalation (not topical application). For what it’s worth, the FDA has put some limits on the amounts used—but it’s still widely found in cosmetics at retailers everywhere. Parabens. “Butyl, propyl and ethyl parabens have been linked to hormone disruption,” notes Shrestha. These are preservatives that are found in a white variety of cosmetics—which is why many cleaner brands have taken the initiative to label their products “paraben-free.” Parabens are probably the most well-known ingredient to avoid due to a 2004 research paper that that appeared to find traces o f p a ra b e n s i n b re a s t c a n c e r t i s s u e samples.13 According to EU and FDA regulations, parabens in their current form are officially considered safe to use, since cosmetic products only use a very small concentration of these ingredients in their formulas (up to around 0.4 percent, though measurements do differ for each paraben). However, we say better safe than sorry.

This Is Not About Fear Knowledge is power—and you can feel good about taking steps to better understand exactly what you’re putting on your body. Think of this list as a jumpingoff point for anyone curious about learning more about sketchy ingredients and clean beauty as whole. We recommend doing your own research on all of the ingredients above, then making a decision that feels right for you. “Given the lack of regulations and federal oversight on what ingredients are allowed in beauty products, it’s important for consumers to seek out and demand products that are clean,” says Shrestha. “This not only drives innovation for brands creating better products, but also increases accountability so that consumers don’t have to spend time doing research on ingredients to ensure safety.” In other words, get comfortable calling brands on their ingredients — all in the name of a safer beauty industry for all.


spa therapies When it comes to our beauty products, it might seem as though the list of ingredients to avoid is growing longer by the minute — but that's not to say you should demonize every ingredient brought up. Marketing has a lot to do with it, and new science comes out all the time offering evidencebased information about what is and isn't good for your skin. Then, of course, there's personal differences too. What may cause sensitivity for you might work for someone else. It's all about education, transparency, and nuance. Still, getting to know your ingredient labels is important.Yashi Shrestha, the research scientist and green cosmetic chemist behind clean beauty retailer NakedPoppy. She’s built a career out of spotlighting the ingredients that aren’t doing our bodies or the planet any favors. “A study by EWG notes that a woman applies about 168 different chemicals everyday,” she says. “This exposure accumulates over time and so it is important for people to opt for products that are cleaner and better for our health.” Thanks to a slow-evolving industry, this is often an uphill battle. “Unfortunately, cosmetics and personal care products have little government oversight, which means many products, and the ingredients used in today's beauty products, are not wellregulated,” she explains. This ultimately leaves the responsibility to the consumer to know what’s health and what’s not. (And if you’ve ever tried to discern the seven-syllable words on an ingredient label, you know that this is hardly an easy task.)

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

PFAs and PFCs. Remember how we said that the term “fragrance” can potentially be hiding hundreds of chemicals? Well, PFAs are a class of thousands. “They’re fluorinated chemicals that have been found in sunscreens, hair products, and shaving creams,” says Shrestha. “They’re linked to serious health effects, including cancer, thyroid disease, and even reduced effectiveness of vaccines.”

Polyethylene glycol (PEGs). On a similar note: Polyethylene glycol, “propylene glycol (PG) and butylene glycol (BG) could potentially be petroleum derived and irritating to the skin,” says Shrestha. These are chemical thickeners and can sometimes be found in cream-based products.

Teflon. Teflon is one specific PFA worth calling out— it’s the brand name for Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), and is sometimes added to cosmetics to improve the texture. But like other PFAs, it’s linked to hormone disruption and reproductive issues.

Siloxanes. Also known as cyclical silicones, these compounds are found in a variety of cosmetic and skincare products—but they’re not great for the environment, and have been linked with endocrine disruption as well. Triclosan. This antimicrobial ingredient (often found in hand sanitizers and antibacterial soap) has been linked to such a significant impact on the thyroid and reproductive hormones, that it’s banned in several countries. The US has moved to ban it from antiseptic soap, but it might still show up in deodorant, mouthwash, shaving cream, and toothpaste, says the EWG.

The good news? “Consumers are becoming more conscious about the environmental impact of certain ingredients, and clean beauty is evolving to have more visibility into the supply chain and sourcing of ingredients,” says Shrestha. That’s a beauty trend we can definitely get behind—and in the meantime, consider this your ultimate cheat sheet on the ingredients to avoid.

Ethanolamines. While these compounds (which are emulsifiers found in foundation, mascara, and skincare products) are technically classified as safe for cosmetic use by the EWG, they’re also shown to be allergens—something to keep in mind if you have sensitivities to certain ingredients. They might be listed as monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine (DEA), or triethanolamine (TEA).

Bookmark the below for your next beauty shop.

Oxybenzone. “This well-established endocrine disruptor can be found in many skincare products that contain sunscreen, including lotions, lip balms, cleansers, fragrance, and even baby products,” says Shrestha.

Formaldehyde. Despite decades of research that classifies formaldehyde as a known carcinogen,1 it’s still a fairly common ingredient in hair straightening products, nail polish, eyelash glue, and an array of other cosmetics. Thankfully, some retailers are starting to ban products that contain formaldehyde from their shelves.

18 Ingredients a Clean Cosmetic Chemist Would Avoid By Victoria Hoff

under the “fragrance” umbrella? That would be phtalates, which are sometimes used to help perfume stick to skin, as well as eyelash adhesive and nail polish. That’s bad news, because phtalates have been shown to be pretty significant endocrine disruptors—in some cases facilitating early puberty in girls and boys, and reduced sperm count in men. They’re also harmful to the environment? The EWG reports that some retailers have started to ban phtalate-containing products from their shelves, but we still recommend a healthy dose of skepticism when it comes to added fragrance.

But there’s a catch. “While formaldehyde has become a well-known toxic ingredient to avoid in beauty products, many don’t know about the lesser known ingredients that release formaldehyde which are formulated in cosmetics today,” says Shrestha. In other words, while it’s unlikely that you’ll see the word “formaldehyde” on an ingredient label, it might be hiding behind another name.

Octinoxate. This common sunscreen ingredient was thought originally to be harmful to coral reefs, and although that may have been recently proven false, it's still somewhat irritating to sensitive skin. Homosalate. “This is another chemical that’s commonly used in sunscreens as a UV absorber,” says Shrestha. While regulations are starting to wisen up to octinoxate and oxybenzone, homosalate is still pretty commonly used.

Formaldehyde releasers. “Bronopol, DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, and quaternium-15 are cosmetic preservatives that slowly form formaldehyde,” says Shrestha. In other words, steer clear if you can.

Toluene. This chemical (which also goes by the name of Butylated Hydroxytoluene, or BHT), is a big no-no: It’s linked with brain toxicity and can be especially dangerous during pregnancy. While it’s banned in the EU and Southeast Asia (as well as by a few retailers in the US), you can still find it nail polish, nail treatments and hair dye.

Synthetic fragrances. A heads-up: When an ingredient label simply says “fragrance” or “parfum,” it’s often an umbrella term for hundreds of chemicals that brands aren’t required to disclose. Phtalates. One such sneaky compound hiding

Talc. While talcum powder (often used as a smoothing agent in mineral makeup) is generally safe, it also has the potential to be contaminated with asbestos, which is a known carcinogen and instigator of lung disease.

If you commonly use waterproof mascara or eyeliner, take note: PFCs are big culprits here, because they’re water repellents.

Resorcinol. “This common ingredient in hair color and bleaching products has been linked to skin irritation and immune system dysfunction,” says Shrestha. “In animal studies, resorcinol can disrupt normal thyroid function.” Carbon black. The EWG has flagged this pigment (which is often found in mascara and eyeliner) because of its possible link to cancer with regard to inhalation (not topical application). For what it’s worth, the FDA has put some limits on the amounts used—but it’s still widely found in cosmetics at retailers everywhere. Parabens. “Butyl, propyl and ethyl parabens have been linked to hormone disruption,” notes Shrestha. These are preservatives that are found in a white variety of cosmetics—which is why many cleaner brands have taken the initiative to label their products “paraben-free.” Parabens are probably the most well-known ingredient to avoid due to a 2004 research paper that that appeared to find traces o f p a ra b e n s i n b re a s t c a n c e r t i s s u e samples.13 According to EU and FDA regulations, parabens in their current form are officially considered safe to use, since cosmetic products only use a very small concentration of these ingredients in their formulas (up to around 0.4 percent, though measurements do differ for each paraben). However, we say better safe than sorry.

This Is Not About Fear Knowledge is power—and you can feel good about taking steps to better understand exactly what you’re putting on your body. Think of this list as a jumpingoff point for anyone curious about learning more about sketchy ingredients and clean beauty as whole. We recommend doing your own research on all of the ingredients above, then making a decision that feels right for you. “Given the lack of regulations and federal oversight on what ingredients are allowed in beauty products, it’s important for consumers to seek out and demand products that are clean,” says Shrestha. “This not only drives innovation for brands creating better products, but also increases accountability so that consumers don’t have to spend time doing research on ingredients to ensure safety.” In other words, get comfortable calling brands on their ingredients — all in the name of a safer beauty industry for all.


spa lifestyle

What Is ‘Emotional’ Beauty? It’s more than a routine—here’s how our beauty rituals are re-connecting us to our emotions. We all know how disjointing the world has been and because of that we have found ourselves seeking peace, calm and serenity among the small routines as a mode of escape. Turning routines into rituals—either drawing a bath, journaling, meditation or even our 10-minute evening routines—has fast become a place for us all to connect to our emotions and wellbeing as well as becoming the place where we seek our moments of tranquillity. The impact of stress, anxiety, exhaustion or feeling burnt out, is inextricably linked to how we feel, how our body takes on the burden and how the chemical process within our brain maximises how we feel emotionally. Our rituals come in as a physical or mental force that helps balance our emotions and as a result affects our body’s regulation system controlling our heart, muscles and brain, achieving overall harmony and balance.

“When you truly welcome wellness into your life, it orientates your emotions inwards, you become aware of how your body feels, and you begin to give those feelings and emotions priority and value,” professional biohacker and health coach, Charlene Gisele, tells Gritty Pretty. “This change in one’s intentions towards wellness and beauty is one of minimising to maximise. With wellness, if you look after the mind, the body and the soul, as they are all connected and impact each other, this thinking expands to beauty.” Chemical processes, the mind and body connection, routines and rituals — it can seem overwhelming when you piece it all together however, ‘emotional beauty’ is just about your ability to achieve harmony between your mind, body and soul. It’s about finding peace among the chaos, and, the best bit? You can introduce just about anything that emphasises your joy and happiness.



spa therapies

Ancient Beauty Secrets The search for everlasting youth and longevity didn't just start. As a matter of fact, the ancient Egyptians, the Chinese and other cultures around the world have long searched for secrets and tips to enhance longevity and create a younger looking appearance. This article will briefly explore some of the methods ancient cultures used to maintain their youth.

Ancient Egyptian Beauty Secrets Sure, the ancient Egyptians built pyramids, but they are also known as the first society who developed the study of cosmetology. Ancient Egyptians who could afford it did not use soap when they bathed, but a form of baking soda, known to create soft, clean and well-hydrated skin. Mixing water and natron, a by-product of sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate resulted in a cream that can very well be considered the very first night cream product. Ancient Egyptians were also very careful to use oils for skin care, a very important practice given the hot, dry climate of their environment. Such oils were liberally spread over the skin and in the hair on an almost daily basis. Egyptians appear to have worn their hair long and thick, but many people don't know that Egyptian women often shaved their entire bodies to prevent lice infestations. Ancient Egyptians also used henna to mask graying hair. As a matter of fact, it is known today that the Egyptians dabbled with a wide number of ways to stimulate hair growth in men. In fact, many men applied fats from various animals to their scalps, including the fat of crocodiles, goats, and lions in an effort to ward off baldness. Rosemary oil, castor oil, and almond oil were also used to increase hair growth.

Ancient Greek Beauty Secrets The Egyptians weren't the only ones looking for that elusive fountain of youth. The ancient Greeks looked for the same thing. Grecian women utilized substances and oils that improved healthy skin appearance. One of the most popular ingredients in their skin care products was honey, used to moisturize their skin. Olive oil was used not only to protect the skin, but also to give it a stimulating shine.

Greek women used such oils and products to also create skin care creams and perfumes. With these natural ingredients, they created products that not only smelled good, but also were good for their skin. Many Greek women, especially those belonging to higher classes, were careful to stay out of the sun, as it was known to age and wrinkle the skin. In addition to using olive oil and honey, Grecian women, and men, often took mineral baths.

Ancient India Ancient India was no different when it came to searching for that fountain of youth and antiaging techniques and perpetual youthfulness. Actually, ancient Indians closely guarded their methods and only passed them down generation to generation 'orally' for centuries. Of all the beauty aids used by ancient Indians, sandalwood is the most important. Sandalwood has been used for thousands of years as a base to create medicines and creams. Two basic kinds of sandalwood used in Indian skin care treatments are white sandal, used for makeup and skin care needs, while red sandal was also popular and is used for both medicine and skin care needs. Sandalwood was used to both clean and condition the skin. Today, sandalwood has been proven to moisturize and protect the skin, not only from the harmful rays of sunshine, but as a protection against germs. Ancient Indians developed a recipe for a skin paste to treat acne by using small portions of sandalwood powder mixed with a portion of turmeric. This paste was applied to the skin before bed and left on all night. For a cooling effect in warmer or humid weather, camphor was added to the paste. This paste reduced pimples without scarring in a short period of time. Indians were very creative with their skin care products. They may be the first to have created the use of the skin mask to treat acne. Sandalwood powder and rosewater creams were spread on their faces and left it on for about 30 minutes. This paste was also used on their torsos, providing relief from heat rashes.

Ancient Indian beliefs and philosophy taught that living a harmonious lifestyle that blended body massages and yoga routines to enhance health, strength and youthfulness. Other creations using a combination of plants and herbs produced beauty products and healing potions. These ingredients were designed to balance the skin and scalp at the cellular level and prevent dehydration and aging affects of old and dying skin cells. Today, everyone knows that stress accelerates the aging process. Of all ancient cultures, the Indian culture seems to have realized the connection between inner body health and outward appearance and as a result, created more products and treatments for a variety of health condition issues. The ancient Indians were fans of mud treatments, something women today spend hundreds of dollars a year to experience. Such skin rejuvenation treatments, combined with massage still helps to invigorate skin cells for a healthy and refreshed and youthful looking appearance. This ancient culture also created herbal bathing solutions using floral, herbal, and milk products to lubricate the skin without clogging pores. Steam treatments combining the effects of sesame oil and herbs eliminated harmful toxins from the skin. These days, the mixtures that ancient Indians have been giving themselves for thousands of years are called an aromatherapy steam.

Conclusion Men and women have been searching since the beginning of time for the secrets of anti aging and longevity. While many of these ancient methods remain shrouded in mystery, a multitude of these antiaging techniques are still used today. The containers may be different, and the packaging doesn't look anything like it did 2000 years ago, but antiaging skin care products continue to be one of the most popular items used by men and women to enhance the appearance of youthfulness well in to the 21st century. Many of those ingredients contained vital antioxidants that have been proven to regenerate cell growth and defy the aging process.


B


spa therapies

Is Metabolism the Key to Disease and Aging? By Deepak Chopra MD Medical research enjoyed a major breakthrough over the past decade when two factors were isolated that link almost every major disorder: inflammation and stress. Neither came as a total surprise. Inflammation was long known as a paradoxical process in the body. Stress is more clear-cut, since it has always been associated with harmful effects in the body and is linked to many disorders from depression and anxiety to hypertension and lowered immunity. But a breakthrough occurred when it was suddenly realized that the culprits in disease and aging were not acute, dramatic instances of inflammation and stress. Instead, the damage to the body is low-level and steady, a chronic condition that does its damage slowly at the cellular level. It turns out that aging and chronic disease actually begin almost invisibly at the cellular level long before any symptoms appear, over a span of years or most probably decades. Breakthroughs are conceptual, opening a door into new paradigms. What lies ahead is unknown and open to more breakthroughs. This is where modern physics enters the picture. At the quantum level, far deeper than medical research has explored, there is an exchange of energy, which is broadly classified as metabolism, from the Greek word for “change.” The change is of energy that every cell needs to sustain itself. You might think that this is like stoking a furnace with coal, but such isn’t the case. There are many mysteries about metabolism that require a quantum explanation. •How do cells know how much energy they need? •How do cells communicate with each other to balance their energy needs and synchronize with one another? •What’s the secret of the complex molecular machinery that regulates the happenings in a cell? •Where is the timer or clock that moves energy through every phase in our bodies from sleep to waking to vigorous activity? These turn out to be quantum questions for the simple reason that chemistry and biology can’t solve them using the time-honored metaphor of the body as a machine. At the basis of the laws governing energy is entropy, the tendency for heat to move from a hotter place to a colder one. The greatest mystery about metabolic energy, however, is negative entropy, the state where heat builds up rather than flowing away, and the human body is a miracle at doing this. Metabolism is a process of renewing every cell’s energy supply, not just offsetting the heat our bodies give off, but trapping energy to deploy it, not simply to keep us warm, but to accomplish the amazing processes behind hearing, seeing, and thinking.

entropy is, consider something as simple as the speed of energy moving from a warmer to a colder place. It is this that creates the so-called arrow of time. In a static universe, entropy might be so slow that change occurs too gradually to create the passage of time. Our universe is so dynamic that time and entropy are intimately linked, which is also true of our bodies. In scientific terminology, nanoscale molecular motors drive the efficient energy transfer in all cells. It might be that inflammation and stress are distortions of energy transfer, slower than normal, which causes the warmth and red skin associated with an inflamed wound or infection. Chronic stress response is the fundamental basis for the amplification of all chronic disease states. At bottom anxiety and depression, which massively drain a person of energy and the vitality of life, are inextricably linked. They inherently drive the chronic stress response. It is this perspective that views chronic diseases as metabolic disorders, whatever the medical diagnosis might be (obesity, type 2 diabetes, hypertension, etc.). Accordingly, the evolutionarily fight-or-flight response, when it stops being shortterm in emergencies and becomes long-term in our metabolism, results in pathological processes of inflammation and stress affecting the cells. Physics, to turn to a more technical explanation, would say that inflammation is like the “de-coherence of quantum physical systems.” In layman’s terms, the tiny quantum motors that drive metabolism must remain orderly and connected. Quantum processes level the playing field for everything, not just our cells but hundreds of biological clocks, thousands of chemical reactions per second, hormonal cycles, and the life cycles of the micro-organisms known as the microbiome. The recent Nobel Prize awarded for the discovery of the molecular clocks embedded in all our cells emphasizes the importance of living in harmony with the circadian cycles of the Earth. They synchronize all those tiny cellular time-keepers. At that point a complex new horizon appears, known as the “fitness landscape.” In evolutionary terms, some species thrive and evolve while others reach a dead end and remain the same or become extinct. Darwin’s theory of evolution broke this down into two factors, getting enough food to survive and finding a mate in order to reproduce and carry on the species. But modern evolutionary biology deals in what is happening at the level of genes, because ultimately, survival is a genetic process. Your own genes are affected by every experience you and your ancestors have ever had. The same is true of every species, so a fitness landscape attempts mathematically to envision every factor that might create changes in genes over time.

To give you a sense of just how miraculous negative

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Imagine a saber-tooth tiger faced with stresses in its environment and if a condition appears that the tiger’s genes cannot adapt to (known as a bifurcation point), disaster awaits. In our bodies a major bifurcation occurs between being healthy and being sick and aging. Enter the field of quantum metabolism. It provides the rules of the road that quantum motors follow. The rules of energy transfer are being violated when metabolic inefficiency appears, leading to disease and aging. It turns out that the most important metabolic parameters of the human body are: redox (the rise and fall of oxidation rates), free energy, and acidbase balance. These factors are maintained in a narrow physiological range in healthy states. The deterioration from health to disease involves stress pushing these key metabolic parameters out of their narrow ranges. There are many ways that the deterioration might start, in something as basic, chemically speaking, as oxidation rates. Small, localized imbalance can eventually bring down the whole body. The common thread in this complex train of investigation is this: physiological fitness declines as energy is lost from the system. This results in the degradation of structure and function in cells and the body as a whole. Quantum processes determine, regulate, and control changes of state, so understanding them can allow us to forestall disease and aging at the deepest level. Aging in terms of symptoms is personal, unique, and unpredictable. Quantum processes aren’t. A much-needed foundation is provided akin to how DNA and gene mapping gave a foundation to evolution and inheritance. Because it triggers disorder in a cascade through molecules, cells, tissues, organs, and the whole body, stress is critical in the fitness landscape human beings occupy, along with all other living creatures. Stress response, when viewed technically, is a measure that can be quantified of a person’s, or a species’, evolving physiological fitness. In human physiology, unpredictable changes in the course of a disease might arise due to an astonishing complexity of molecular interactions. Even modern physics finds itself challenged by this complexity. If we are to reach the cherished goal of a truly precise medicine, massive amounts of data are being accumulated by genomics, metabolomics, proteomics, etc., allowing us to rely on computers and artificial intelligence to clarify the essential things we need to know. The human body is literally being reinvented before our eyes. Insights from modern physics are needed to realize the full potential of this emerging paradigm shift. Yet without a doubt it is proceeding and accelerating every day.



spa innovation

National Survey Reveals How Pandemic Has Impacted Beauty ByJulie Keller Callaghan - Well Defined In the past year, we’ve seen dramatic changes to our everyday lives—some temporary, some permanent. What has it all meant for beauty, selfcare, and our very perception of ourselves? StriVectin answers these questions with new research exploring changes and new habits after a year of unprecedented disruption. Its survey of 2,000 U.S. adults has examined the impact living in a largely virtual world has had on how we perceive ourselves and how we might expect those changes to impact our daily lives as we emerge from pandemic life. Video conferencing has become the new normal since public health precautions necessitated time spent apart from family, friends, and colleagues. And with 90 percent expecting to continue video calling even after the crisis abates, we are likely looking more at a shift than a trend. “As a brand with scientific research at the core of our beliefs, it was important for us to better understand shifting consumer perceptions and priorities,” says StriVectin CMO Alison Yeh. “The findings of this survey shed a light on the impact living virtually has had on the way we look at ourselves on many levels, a trend we expect to continue as working from home and video-calling are likely to remain embedded in our ever yday lives for months to come.” Among the highlights of the survey: • 63% admit to spending at least half their time on video calls staring at their own face. • 44% researched how to look better in video calls. • 33% have been frustrated to the point of considering cosmetic procedures – for those in the 35 to 44 age group, that number jumps to 50 %. • 81% feel that the condition of their skin has deteriorated during the pandemic.

A Different Reflection? 69% of survey takers say the things that bother them on video calls are not the things that bother them when they look in the mirror. This is not in their imagination. Experts say that our phone and computer video cameras can intensify shadows around the eyes and nose, highlight blemishes and wrinkles, and even make the face look fuller. Staring at this new live video view of oneself, as

18

opposed to in a mirror or a photograph, can be a somewhat unsettling experience.

Eyes Climb The Beauty Priority (Complaint) List Eye concerns are one of the most common “video face” complaints with one in four saying they notice under-eye circles more on video calls. •30% say they have actually turned their camera off during a video call because their eyes looked tired on the screen. •71% say they are making an effort to positively accentuate the eye area, mostly by enhancing the skin. 37% have stepped up their efforts with serums, eye creams, and devices, while 34% have added products to conceal or diminish dark circles. 31% rely on added definition with color cosmetics.

Motivated To Look Better On Camera 44% of survey takers have researched how to look better in video calls specifically, while 33% have even considered cosmetic procedures after constantly seeing themselves on video calls. As a result, people are spending more money to address the issues: •51% say their monthly skincare/ grooming/ selfcare expenditures have increased since the start of the pandemic. • 52%, say the spending increase is a result of greater concern over their appearance The revelation is not a total surprise to the R&D and marketing teams at StriVectin. The brand has seen a double-digit percent increase in sales of its eyecare products over the last year. “With eyes the main element of our appearance visible to the outside world this past year, it is natural that they have become our focal facial feature,” says Yeh. “And, after the stress of the last year causing many a sleepless night, it also makes sense that dark circles would be such a significant consideration for so many.”

Blue Light Getting Its Share Of The Blame During our year of confinement, 81% feel the the overall condition of their skin has deteriorated, in general, with almost one in three (32 percent) specifically citing increased screen time as a cause.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

A solid two thirds are looking harder at one of the specific consequences of super-charged screen time— blue light exposure. 33% have researched the damaging effects of blue light on the skin, while an additional 33% have purchased products to mitigate the effect.

A Silver Lining To Staring at The Screen? There appears to be some benefits to this year. • 67% say that after a year of virtual meetings, they have finally figured out how to ensure they look best on video calls. •What is the number one last-minute pre-Zoom beauty touch-up? Nearly half (46%) say it is brushing their hair. About a quarter (23%) say mascara is their pre-Zoom go-to beauty savior (the number two choice). • When asked what they have added to their beauty routines, respondents’ number-one response was ramping up their skincare regimen with greater focus on worry areas. After a year of video conferencing, 56% report now being more comfortable seeing themselves on camera. Perhaps this is why more people say that even post-pandemic, they would prefer a virtual call to an in-person meeting (47% to 44%).

Selfies Vs. Video Calls Finally, the stat you didn’t know you needed to know: Of those with a preference between the two, 57% say they prefer how they look on video vs how they look in selfies. About Julie Keller Callaghan: Julie is the co-founder of Well Defined and a longtime influencer and advocate in the wellness world. She is also a consultant and content strategist for numerous wellness brands. She is the former editor-in-chief and publisher of American Spa and was named a 2019 Folio Top Woman in Media in the Industry Trailblazers category and a 2018 winner of ISPA’s Innovate Award. She is also a seasoned journalist, specializing in spa, travel, health, fitness, wellness, sustainability, and beauty.



spa therapies

The Value Of Digital Transformation And Collaboration In Fashion, Luxury And Beauty By Alison Bringé - Forbes The past year and a half has admittedly been a challenge for many brands in the fashion industry — be they emerging or established ones. We all had to adapt to the swift changes and find new ways to survive. And given all the mergers, acquisitions and closures that have taken place, it may be more difficult for the smaller and emerging brands to stand out. However, technology has helped create equal opportunities and minimize the gap between the Davids and the Goliaths of the world, and many executives have used technology to make smarter decisions around their branding ef for ts. As they’ve undergone digital transformation, brands have looked for ways to engage with their audiences via new formats and mediums, searched for tools that would help them understand their brand strategy or online performance, and finally, turned to voices like celebrities who could help amplify their brand message and help them increase their brand performance. But what about smaller brands that are looking to pave a path and don’t necessarily have the budget or top-of-mind recognition to work with a big name? I believe the answer is through community and authentic storytelling. We all know connections are key and, even more so in the fashion industry, building a strong network of industry professionals can help companies create robust opportunities for future collaborations and ongoing support. Leveraging

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communities that connect industry leaders could be an important step toward building your presence. A great example of how to use these connections is a story I am both personally and professionally excited about, as it comes from my own career experience. At Launchmetrics, we have always strived to bridge the gap not only between fashion and technology but also between various industry players and hope to support others in their growth. This is why, when the designer and founder of a Blackowned and operated clothing brand (and Launchmetrics client) approached us this season to design a branded runway look as appreciation for our role in supporting their brand, I knew we had achieved our mission. For years now, the runway has been evolving from an industry-only place to a consumer-focused branded experience. More recently, I’ve also seen it become a stage not only for creative expression but also for community and collaboration. This example and many others illustrate how the industry is embracing such a collaborative mindset and that “a rising tide lifts all boats.” This should remind us just how important it is to support each other and give back, especially in challenging times. For the fashion, luxury and beauty brands who are looking to collaborate within their communities, I recommend you:

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

1. Start local: Connect with those around you, both geographically and professionally, to create a strong network of supporters who will be willing to support you and tell your story. 2. Tell a compelling story: Whatever the collaboration may be, keep it authentic and take your audience on a complete journey. Brand stories that come full circle or share a common goal can drive stronger audience interaction. 3. Communicate your brand values: When you’re choosing a brand partner to collaborate with, it’s important to ensure you both share the same values — as consumers can typically see through superficial PR opportunities — and that you are both willing to communicate the same message and demonstrate a united front to create clear and concise messaging. In the end, I believe elevating brand performance will be about making smart business decisions that help propel your brand forward via strong industry connections, effective digital tools and collaborative minds. Now that physical events are returning to Fashion Week this season, we should not forget what the last one and a half years taught us about embracing digital, the opportunities it offers and the importance of supporting each other.



The NEW Dermatological Patent & Anti-Aging Hydration Benchmark


The NEW Dermatological Patent & Anti-Aging Hydration Benchmark


spa therapies Adapted from The Collagen Diet: A 28-Day Play for Sustained Weight Loss, Glowing Skin, Great Gut Health and a Younger You by Dr. Josh Axe I know you care about healthy aging breakthroughs, so I'm delighted to be able to share this information on the importance of stem cells and the vital - and largely unsung role - they play in keeping your collagen healthy and abundant. If we want to shield our connective tissue, joints, gut, organs and skin from the havoc of age, protecting our stem cells must be part of the strategy. I like to think of it as a stem cell collagen activator strategy. Why does it matter? Because throughout your life, the stem cells in your bone marrow, body fat, skin, muscles, blood vessels and brain have been working diligently behind the scenes to patch up and rebuild injured or damaged tissues - including those with the highest collagen content, like your skin, ligaments, tendons, cartilage, spinal disks, gut and blood vessels. The stem cells responsible for this remarkable act of regeneration are known as adult stem cells. And here's why they're so special… While the idea of using stem cells to treat illness is new and exciting, a similar concept, known as jing, or essence, has existed in Traditional Chinese Medicine for thousands of years. Jing is considered the origin of life. Similarly, embryonic stem cells those that are present when a recently fertilized egg is three to five days old - give rise to the entire body and every cell in it. Jing deficiency is caused by chronic disease, stress and aging - some of the same hazards that damage and deplete stem cells. Today, Chinese herbs meant to nourish jing are increasingly being shown to promote stem cell proliferation and differentiation. And we know that stem cells age, just like all other living organisms. However, the aging of stem cells carries greater significance, according to some researchers. They've formulated the “stem cell theory of aging,” which speculates that the human body's aging process is the result of aging stem cells. In other words, as stem cells get older and become less capable of replenishing tissues and organs with sufficient numbers of new cells to maintain their function, our bodies themselves show more signs of wear and tear, falling into decline and disrepair.

Stem Cell Collagen Activators How to Support Your Stem Cells By Dr. Josh Axe, DC, DNM, CN

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

The theory makes sense, stem cells, more than any other types of cells, are responsible for rejuvenating our tissue. And regardless of whether stem cells are responsible for aging or simply play an active role in the process, we know that these remarkable cells, along with the collagen they create, can help keep our bodies more youthful. As a result, it makes sense to do everything we can to protect this elegant, built-in biological repair system. Like collagen - and every other tissue in your body - stem cells thrive in a wholesome, low-inflammation environment. The dietary guidance I outline in The Collagen Diet will go a long way toward creating the ideal internal milieu to foster stem cell replication and differentiation. But here are six other ways you can help your supply of stem cells thrive… Slash your sugar consumption. That means staying away from sweets and limiting simple carbs, which cause a surge in blood sugar.Need

motivation? In a study looking at stem cell function in the adipose tissue of people with and without diabetes, researchers at Tulane University Health Center found that elevated glucose in both groups (but especially diabetics) reduced stem cells' ability to proliferate and turn into cartilage or bone cells - and could actually cause stem cell death. Limiting sugar, on the other hand, improves adult stem cell function and also prolongs the cells' life span. Try short-term fasting. Studies have long shown that fasting can be good for the body. Now, research has revealed that it can give stem cells a boost, too. For instance, biologists from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology recently reported that a 24hour fast can reverse the age-related loss of intestinal stem cells in mice - a vital finding, since intestinal stem cells are responsible for maintaining the lining of the intestine, which renews every five days, as well as repairing damage from infections or injuries. Scientists don't understand precisely how fasting helps, but here's what we do know: When mice go without food for a full day, it triggers a metabolic switch that prompts intestinal stem cells to burning fatty acids instead of glucose, and shifting from glucose to fat revives the regenerative capacity of stem cells and significantly enhances their function. Stay strong - and active. There's lots of research showing that exercise is good for stem cells - and having healthy stem cells is vital for the body's ability to repair muscle tissue, along with cartilage, tendons, ligaments and bones. Studies have shown that aerobic exercise increases the total number of bone marrow-derived mesenchymal stem cells and restores muscle stem cell mobilization and regenerative capacity. In one study, Polish researchers had a group of mice run on a treadmill at progressive speeds over a five-week period. At the end of the training, the researchers compared the quantity of the mesenchymal stem cells in their bone marrow with that of sedentary mice. They found that the fit mice had significantly higher numbers of stem cells than the sedentary group, and those stem cells were primed to create new specialized bone cells. They concluded that exercise may represent a novel, non-pharmacological strategy for slowing the agerelated decline of musculoskeletal functions. And other studies looking at stem cell transplants show that exercise stimulates your chondrocytes to grow new collagen-rich cartilage. The specific type and intensity of exercise may be less important than the movement itself, seeing as everything from strength training to yoga seems to help, and mild to relatively vigorous exercise has been shown to be effective. If you have trouble motivating yourself to get to the gym or hop on your bike or go for a run, think of your stem cells and collagen - and do it for them. Get enough sleep. You already know how important sleep is, but the health of your stem cells is yet another reason to make sure you get adequate rest. Stanford researchers found that hematopoietic stem cells (the type used in stem cell transplants for a variety of malignant and nonmalignant diseases) in sleep-deprived mice showed an alarming decrease in activity. In fact, a sleep deficit of just four hours triggered

a 50% drop in stem cells' ability to transform into specialized cells in the blood and bone marrow. And chances are, the same forces that damage one type of stem cell take a toll on the others, including those that help maintain healthy collagen. Reduce stress. Here's one interesting example of what stress can do to stem cells: In a study published in the journal Cell Death Discovery, researchers created a stressful situation for mice with liver injuries. In response, the mice secreted corticosterone, a stress hormone, which impaired the ability of the rodents' mesenchymal stem cells to differentiate into the types of cells needed to repair the damaged tissue in the liver. Add these foods to your diet. In addition to eating bone broth (the marrow contains a potent source of mesenchymal stem cells - make sure you get plenty of these stem-cell-producing nutrients into your diet. Vitamin D3-rich foods include: Wild-caught salmon, Mackerel, Tuna, Sardines, Beef liver, Eggs, Caviar. Vitamin C also helps bolster stem cell production, and vitamin C foods include: Black currants, Red peppers, Kiwifruit, Guavas, Green bell pepper, Oranges, Strawberries, Papaya, Leafy greens, Parsley, Pineapples. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is a freeradical-killing polyphenol found in green tea. It accelerates the differentiation of stem cells in human skin and can even encourage older skin cells that normally would die off to become more robust and live longer. Rich food sources of EGCG include: Green tea, Matcha green tea, Cranberries, Apples, Cherries, Avocados, Pecans, Pistachios. And don't forget these TCM herbs and foods for building and protecting jing and stem cells… • Schisandra helps balance jing with two other treasures of the body, the shen - our spirit or mind - and the qi, our life force or bodily energy. • Reishi mushroom nourishes the heart, preserves liver health, promotes a sense of calm, slows aging and enhances vitality, strength and stamina. •Panax ginseng is used in TCM to enhance longevity and studies show it promotes the proliferation and differentiation of neural stem cells. • Fo-ti root is a herbal medicine derived from the Polygonum multiflorum plant. Revered in the TCM world for its ability to fight aging, research shows its anti-inflammatory effects are similar in strength to prescription anti-inflammatory medications. •A plant in the legume family, astragalus impacts stem cells in a number of ways. A study in Medical Science Monitor, found it can regulate inflammation of mesenchymal stem cells; and a paper in Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy found that astragalus promotes proliferation and differentiation of mesenchymal stem cells in bone marrow, in part by activating an intracellular signaling pathway that plays a role in regulating the cell cycle. •In one study, rehmannia, a type of flowering perennial plant, is considered a “general tonic” by both TCM and Japanese medicine, helped keep stem cells from dying when researchers administered hydrogen peroxide to the cells to kill them.


spa therapies Adapted from The Collagen Diet: A 28-Day Play for Sustained Weight Loss, Glowing Skin, Great Gut Health and a Younger You by Dr. Josh Axe I know you care about healthy aging breakthroughs, so I'm delighted to be able to share this information on the importance of stem cells and the vital - and largely unsung role - they play in keeping your collagen healthy and abundant. If we want to shield our connective tissue, joints, gut, organs and skin from the havoc of age, protecting our stem cells must be part of the strategy. I like to think of it as a stem cell collagen activator strategy. Why does it matter? Because throughout your life, the stem cells in your bone marrow, body fat, skin, muscles, blood vessels and brain have been working diligently behind the scenes to patch up and rebuild injured or damaged tissues - including those with the highest collagen content, like your skin, ligaments, tendons, cartilage, spinal disks, gut and blood vessels. The stem cells responsible for this remarkable act of regeneration are known as adult stem cells. And here's why they're so special… While the idea of using stem cells to treat illness is new and exciting, a similar concept, known as jing, or essence, has existed in Traditional Chinese Medicine for thousands of years. Jing is considered the origin of life. Similarly, embryonic stem cells those that are present when a recently fertilized egg is three to five days old - give rise to the entire body and every cell in it. Jing deficiency is caused by chronic disease, stress and aging - some of the same hazards that damage and deplete stem cells. Today, Chinese herbs meant to nourish jing are increasingly being shown to promote stem cell proliferation and differentiation. And we know that stem cells age, just like all other living organisms. However, the aging of stem cells carries greater significance, according to some researchers. They've formulated the “stem cell theory of aging,” which speculates that the human body's aging process is the result of aging stem cells. In other words, as stem cells get older and become less capable of replenishing tissues and organs with sufficient numbers of new cells to maintain their function, our bodies themselves show more signs of wear and tear, falling into decline and disrepair.

Stem Cell Collagen Activators How to Support Your Stem Cells By Dr. Josh Axe, DC, DNM, CN

24

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

The theory makes sense, stem cells, more than any other types of cells, are responsible for rejuvenating our tissue. And regardless of whether stem cells are responsible for aging or simply play an active role in the process, we know that these remarkable cells, along with the collagen they create, can help keep our bodies more youthful. As a result, it makes sense to do everything we can to protect this elegant, built-in biological repair system. Like collagen - and every other tissue in your body - stem cells thrive in a wholesome, low-inflammation environment. The dietary guidance I outline in The Collagen Diet will go a long way toward creating the ideal internal milieu to foster stem cell replication and differentiation. But here are six other ways you can help your supply of stem cells thrive… Slash your sugar consumption. That means staying away from sweets and limiting simple carbs, which cause a surge in blood sugar.Need

motivation? In a study looking at stem cell function in the adipose tissue of people with and without diabetes, researchers at Tulane University Health Center found that elevated glucose in both groups (but especially diabetics) reduced stem cells' ability to proliferate and turn into cartilage or bone cells - and could actually cause stem cell death. Limiting sugar, on the other hand, improves adult stem cell function and also prolongs the cells' life span. Try short-term fasting. Studies have long shown that fasting can be good for the body. Now, research has revealed that it can give stem cells a boost, too. For instance, biologists from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology recently reported that a 24hour fast can reverse the age-related loss of intestinal stem cells in mice - a vital finding, since intestinal stem cells are responsible for maintaining the lining of the intestine, which renews every five days, as well as repairing damage from infections or injuries. Scientists don't understand precisely how fasting helps, but here's what we do know: When mice go without food for a full day, it triggers a metabolic switch that prompts intestinal stem cells to burning fatty acids instead of glucose, and shifting from glucose to fat revives the regenerative capacity of stem cells and significantly enhances their function. Stay strong - and active. There's lots of research showing that exercise is good for stem cells - and having healthy stem cells is vital for the body's ability to repair muscle tissue, along with cartilage, tendons, ligaments and bones. Studies have shown that aerobic exercise increases the total number of bone marrow-derived mesenchymal stem cells and restores muscle stem cell mobilization and regenerative capacity. In one study, Polish researchers had a group of mice run on a treadmill at progressive speeds over a five-week period. At the end of the training, the researchers compared the quantity of the mesenchymal stem cells in their bone marrow with that of sedentary mice. They found that the fit mice had significantly higher numbers of stem cells than the sedentary group, and those stem cells were primed to create new specialized bone cells. They concluded that exercise may represent a novel, non-pharmacological strategy for slowing the agerelated decline of musculoskeletal functions. And other studies looking at stem cell transplants show that exercise stimulates your chondrocytes to grow new collagen-rich cartilage. The specific type and intensity of exercise may be less important than the movement itself, seeing as everything from strength training to yoga seems to help, and mild to relatively vigorous exercise has been shown to be effective. If you have trouble motivating yourself to get to the gym or hop on your bike or go for a run, think of your stem cells and collagen - and do it for them. Get enough sleep. You already know how important sleep is, but the health of your stem cells is yet another reason to make sure you get adequate rest. Stanford researchers found that hematopoietic stem cells (the type used in stem cell transplants for a variety of malignant and nonmalignant diseases) in sleep-deprived mice showed an alarming decrease in activity. In fact, a sleep deficit of just four hours triggered

a 50% drop in stem cells' ability to transform into specialized cells in the blood and bone marrow. And chances are, the same forces that damage one type of stem cell take a toll on the others, including those that help maintain healthy collagen. Reduce stress. Here's one interesting example of what stress can do to stem cells: In a study published in the journal Cell Death Discovery, researchers created a stressful situation for mice with liver injuries. In response, the mice secreted corticosterone, a stress hormone, which impaired the ability of the rodents' mesenchymal stem cells to differentiate into the types of cells needed to repair the damaged tissue in the liver. Add these foods to your diet. In addition to eating bone broth (the marrow contains a potent source of mesenchymal stem cells - make sure you get plenty of these stem-cell-producing nutrients into your diet. Vitamin D3-rich foods include: Wild-caught salmon, Mackerel, Tuna, Sardines, Beef liver, Eggs, Caviar. Vitamin C also helps bolster stem cell production, and vitamin C foods include: Black currants, Red peppers, Kiwifruit, Guavas, Green bell pepper, Oranges, Strawberries, Papaya, Leafy greens, Parsley, Pineapples. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is a freeradical-killing polyphenol found in green tea. It accelerates the differentiation of stem cells in human skin and can even encourage older skin cells that normally would die off to become more robust and live longer. Rich food sources of EGCG include: Green tea, Matcha green tea, Cranberries, Apples, Cherries, Avocados, Pecans, Pistachios. And don't forget these TCM herbs and foods for building and protecting jing and stem cells… • Schisandra helps balance jing with two other treasures of the body, the shen - our spirit or mind - and the qi, our life force or bodily energy. • Reishi mushroom nourishes the heart, preserves liver health, promotes a sense of calm, slows aging and enhances vitality, strength and stamina. •Panax ginseng is used in TCM to enhance longevity and studies show it promotes the proliferation and differentiation of neural stem cells. • Fo-ti root is a herbal medicine derived from the Polygonum multiflorum plant. Revered in the TCM world for its ability to fight aging, research shows its anti-inflammatory effects are similar in strength to prescription anti-inflammatory medications. •A plant in the legume family, astragalus impacts stem cells in a number of ways. A study in Medical Science Monitor, found it can regulate inflammation of mesenchymal stem cells; and a paper in Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy found that astragalus promotes proliferation and differentiation of mesenchymal stem cells in bone marrow, in part by activating an intracellular signaling pathway that plays a role in regulating the cell cycle. •In one study, rehmannia, a type of flowering perennial plant, is considered a “general tonic” by both TCM and Japanese medicine, helped keep stem cells from dying when researchers administered hydrogen peroxide to the cells to kill them.




spa therapies

The Best 8 Ways To Boost Your Immune System 1. Good gut health is critical. Doctors believe that up to 80% of your immune system is in your gut. A diet rich in whole, unprocessed foods and antioxidants may have a protective effect. It reduces inflammation and encourages good gut bacteria that help establish a robust immune system. Focus on fibre-rich vegetables, fruits, legumes, whole grains and healthy fats. Fermented foods such as Rawbiotics Defence, kombucha, sauerkraut and yoghurt are beneficial. Be kind to your liver, as it is responsible for filtering the blood, breaking down fats, and removing excess cholesterol and toxins. Apples, Kale, broccoli, and cabbage can help increase your liver’s ability to detox the body naturally. 2. Exercise Regularly. Physical activity helps flush out bacteria and clear the airways. It slows down the release of stress hormones. It also decreases your chance of developing some diseases, such as heart disease and fatty liver, plus keeps your bones strong. 3. Take Extra Vitamins. Vitamin C contributes to immune defence by supporting cell function and protecting against free

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

radicals and pollutants. The best way to get Vitamin C is through oranges, strawberries, spinach, kiwi and grapefruit. Vitamin D enhances your immune response and may protect you from respiratory conditions. 10 minutes of sun exposure daily produce plenty of vitamin D, or take a vitamin D supplement. Vitamin B6 found in chicken, tuna, chickpeas and green veggies. Vitamin E found in nuts, seeds and spinach. Zinc helps protect our immune systems from colds and flu.

By Trish - Life Retreat

mind, lowers blood pressure and improves the lymphatic system. 6. Adequate Sleep It’s a natural reboot to your system. Did you know that researchers have found that poor sleep makes you four times more likely to catch a cold? It can be the number one factor determining if someone gets sick – more than age or stress level. Your body relies on a whole night’s rest to replenish cells and proteins.

4. Reduce Stress Levels 7. Employ Positive Thinking. This is often easier said than done. Stress affects your body’s immune response. It causes you to produce extra levels of cortisol and cytokines, which trigger inflammation. It can decrease the number of white blood cells available to fight infection, leaving you at risk for colds and flu. Stressed people are probably not getting enough sleep, and they neglect other healthy habits that boost immunity.

Fake it until you believe it. Your mental state does influence your physical health. Positive thinkers are less likely than “negative” people to have a heart attack. It has been found that smiling – even if you have to fake it – reduces stress and uplifts your mood. Negative emotions can weaken immune response so reassess your outlook. Be grateful.

5.Yoga and Meditation.

8. Finally, Immune Boosting CBD Oil

This calms your nervous system, helping to reduce inflammation. Reduces stress levels, improves concentrations, nurtures healthy immune systems. Deep breathing clears your airways, calms your

Life Retreats Immune Boosting oil has been specifically formulated to boost your immune system and reduce inflammation. Our Scientists have researched various immune-boosting herbs and vitamins.



spa therapies

Boost Your Immune System With These Foods Vitamins play a major role in keeping your immune system strong, fighting against viruses, germs and other harmful substances. The vitamins also help to regulate body's metabolism and assist in forming bone and tissue. If you don't give your body the necessary vitamins it needs, then the immune system collapses and eventually loses its resistance to fight against infection and other diseases. With that in mind, let's take a look at some of the main Vitamins that help maintain a healthy and strong immune system and the foods rich in these vitamins.

Five immune boosting foods 1. Vitamin A rich foods A deficiency in vitamin A is linked to autoimmune diseases including rheumatoid arthritis and type 1 diabetes. According to researchers, it has to do with our dendritic cells which can send out a “red alert” to stimulate immunity, or a “calm down” message that tones down excessive immunity that can damage the body. The “calm down” message is what makes use of vitamin A. Animal products such fish, fermented cod liver oil, shellfish, liver and butterfat from grassfed cows are loaded with vitamin A. 2. Vitamin D rich foods This nutrient also called “sunshine vitamin,”is essential for many metabolic and immunological pathways

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in the body. With autoimmune conditions - such as inflammatory bowel disease, multiple sclerosis, psoriasis and rheumatoid arthritis - Th17 cells are out of control. However, vitamin D, in conjunction with Vitamin A can dampen the Th17 inflammatory response. You can get vitamin D from animal and dairy fats. However, spending about 20 to 60 minutes a day, depending on your complexion also helps. You should also consider getting your vitamin D levels checked every couple of months. 3. Vitamin K2 rich foods Vitamin K is a potent immune system vitamin which aids coagulation, helping blood to clot, preventing excess loss of blood during an injury or accidents. It is also essential for proper functioning of kidneys and bone growth and and prevents calcification of arteries and other soft tissue.

ferritin. And in functional medicine, damage of the gut lining and leaky gut syndrome are preconditions for autoimmunity. But, before dealing with iron deficiency, it's important that you deal with the underlying gut condition first. Foods rich in iron include Red meat, pork and poultry, seafood, beans, dark green leafy vegetables, such as spinach, dried fruit, such as raisins and apricots, iron-fortified cereals, breads and pastas and peas. 5. Micronutrient rich foods Deficiencies in micronutrients like as selenium, magnesium and zinc can cause several autoimmune diseases such as Hashimoto's disease. This is mainly because of chronic inflammation, which decreases the absorption of these vital nutrients.

4. Iron rich foods

Foods rich in micronutrients include: Calcium - Dairy products, almonds, tahini, green leafy vegetables Magnesium - Nuts, seeds, wholegrains, legumes, green leafy vegetables Zinc - Lean meat, chicken, fish, sunflower and pumpkin seeds Selenium - Brazil nuts, wheatgerm, sunflower seeds, oats

Many autoimmune diseases are linked to Iron deficiency anemia. One reason is because the intestines absorb a large amount of stored iron,

How many of these foods do you consume regularly? Remember: Diet can often be key to healing your body.

Foods rich in K2 include Kale, natto (fermented soy), spring onions, brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli,prunes, Dairy (fermented), cucumbers and dried basil.



spa therapies You've probably used the phrases: “I have butterflies in my stomach,” “I have a gut feeling about this,” or “there's a pit in my stomach.” Have you ever wondered why so many of these sayings involve our brains and tummies? The answer is the gut-brain connection.

Image courtesy of Esse Skincare

Again, with an improvement of the gut came an improvement of mental well-being. Patients in this study took the probiotic Bifidobacterium longum NCC3001 daily.

You're probably already aware that leaky gut syndrome is linked to serious conditions and diseases. Turns out, science is discovering that the connection between our guts and our emotions is just as strong.

Studies show that patients with inflammatory diseases are prone to depression. The theory is that a dysregulation of the pathways involved in the gutbrain axis is responsible for this phenomenon. Research indicates that inflammation leads to depression, and depression worsens cytokine responses, so it's really just a vicious cycle.

3. Swear Off Gluten For many people, limiting gluten will also have positive effect on their gut microbiomes. The traditional methods of soaking, sprouting and souring grains in order to make them digestible and nutritious have been abandoned for a fast and convenient method of mass producing food.

What Is the Gut-Brain Connection?

Impact on Anxiety

The microbes in the gut play a significant role in human body function. The gut microbiome is responsible for everyday functions, including digestion and t he nutrient absorption.

Research shows that stress is intimately tied to our guts - thereby proving the gut-brain connection. We know that gut health influences anxiety and the body's response to stress as part of the brain-gut connection.

4. Eat Healthy Fats Healthy fats are essential for brain development. Olive oil, for instance, includes a high amount of antioxidants that protect your cells from damage. It also helps improve memory and cognitive function, and works as an anti-inflammatory.

The gut and brain work in a “bi-directional manner,” which means that gut health can impact stress, anxiety, depression and cognition. Scientific studies show that the gut is home to the enteric nervous system (ENS). Separate from the central nervous system, the ENS is made up of two thin layers with more than 100 million nerve cells in them - more than the spinal cord. These cells line the gastrointestinal tract, controlling blood flow and secretions to help the gastrointestinal tract digest food. They also help us “feel” what's happening inside the gut, since this second brain is behind the mechanics of food digestion. While the second brain doesn't get involved in thought processes like political debates or theological reflection, studies suggest that it does control behavior on its own. Researchers believe this came about to make digestion more efficient in the body. Instead of having to “direct” digestion through the spinal cord and into the brain and back, we developed an on-site brain that could handle things closer to the source. Because this second brain is so complex, scientists aren't convinced that it was designed as just a way to aid in digestion. So while it isn't capable of thoughts, it does “talk” to the brain in major ways.

Impact on Depression

By Kissairis Munoz 32

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

are responsible for a variety of health conditions, from obesity to type 2 diabetes to migraines. 2. Eat Probiotics Eating probiotic-rich foods, like kefir and sauerkraut, can also cause your gut and mood to thrive. Probiotics are good bacteria that primarily line your gut and are responsible for nutrient absorption and supporting your immune system.

As it turns out, your nervous stomach isn't such a coincidence. In fact, the more we learn about the human gut, or our gut microbiome, the more it's clear that it really is our “second brain.”

The Gut-Brain Connection: How It Works + How to Support It

depression. Researchers found that twice as many patients saw improvements from depression when they took a probiotic as compared to the other patients who took a placebo.

The gut microbiome appears to play a role in depression. The microflora has proved to benefit mental health by enhancing the microbiome content in our GI systems. Researchers have learned that healthy gut microflora transmits brain signals through pathways that are involved in brain neuron formation and behavioral control. They also proved that inflammation affects the brain and how someone thinks, which explains why more than 20 percent of inflammatory bowel disease patients exhibit depressed behaviors. One study illustrated how the gut and brain are connected through studying the effects of probiotics on patients with irritable bowel syndrome and

Our bodies respond to stress with a “fight or flight system,” related to our cortisol levels and which we know is ruled by the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis. When something scary or worrying happens, like someone unexpectedly jumps in front of you, you have a physical reaction: Your palms might get sweaty, and you might feel your heartbeat quicken. Typically, if you're in a stressful situation that is then diffused, your body goes back to normal. However, if you're constantly stressed, your body is stuck in that fight or flight phase over an extended period of time. The critical part is that our bodies are unable to distinguish between physical and mental stress. Thus your body responds the same way if a bear shows up in your home as it does when you realize you hate your job - it tries to combat the stress. This constant state of stress causes chronic inflammation. The body reacts to the stress as a type of infection and tries to overcome it.

Avocado benefits range from protecting your heart to helping with digestion, but it's also a great pick for improving your mood. 5. Consume Mushrooms The shiitake mushroom contains plenty of vitamin B6. Because vitamin B6 impacts the production of serotonin and neurotransmitters, healthy B6 levels are associated with a positive mood and reducing stress naturally. It's also been shown to effectively treat mood disorders like depression in animal research. 6. Eat Nuts Have a small handful of nuts, like almonds, cashews, walnuts and Brazil nuts. Why? Research shows they're full of serotonin, a feel-good chemical that's in shor t supply when you're depressed. 7. Have Sesame Seeds Sesame seeds benefits stem from tyrosine, an amino acid that boosts the brain's dopamine levels. It kicks the feel-good hormone into high gear while balancing out the others.

Because inflammation is at the root of many diseases, this exposure to prolonged stress can have serious consequences for your health, ranging from high blood pressure to autoimmune disorders. The types of bacteria found in the gut - “good bacteria” - play a role in how our immune responses are regulated.

We don't have all the answers on the gut-mood link just yet, but one thing is certain: Our bodies and minds are much more connected than you believe. Taking care of one part will reap benefits for the rest of you.

Natural Ways to Improve Your Gut-Brain Connection

Final Thoughts

While there's still much to uncover about the mystery of the gut and all it affects, we are sure of a few things you should do to improve your gut-brain connection.

• The microbes in the gut play a significant role in human body function. They are responsible for everyday functions, including digestion and the nutrient absorption, and gut health has a significant impact on mental health. This is known as the gutbrain connection.

1. Avoid Processed Foods For starters, a whole foods-based diet leads to a gut with a much different makeup than one that's been fed mainly refined and processed foods. Even worse, ultra-processed foods - like white bread, chips and snack cakes - make up nearly 60 percent of the average American's diet. The added sugar found in these foods, often disguised as different types of artificial sweeteners,

• Research shows that there's a connection between gut microbiota and mental health disorders like depression and chronic anxiety or stress. • The key is to improve gut health, which will reduce systemic inflammation and improve mental health thanks to the gut-brain connection.


spa therapies You've probably used the phrases: “I have butterflies in my stomach,” “I have a gut feeling about this,” or “there's a pit in my stomach.” Have you ever wondered why so many of these sayings involve our brains and tummies? The answer is the gut-brain connection.

Image courtesy of Esse Skincare

Again, with an improvement of the gut came an improvement of mental well-being. Patients in this study took the probiotic Bifidobacterium longum NCC3001 daily.

You're probably already aware that leaky gut syndrome is linked to serious conditions and diseases. Turns out, science is discovering that the connection between our guts and our emotions is just as strong.

Studies show that patients with inflammatory diseases are prone to depression. The theory is that a dysregulation of the pathways involved in the gutbrain axis is responsible for this phenomenon. Research indicates that inflammation leads to depression, and depression worsens cytokine responses, so it's really just a vicious cycle.

3. Swear Off Gluten For many people, limiting gluten will also have positive effect on their gut microbiomes. The traditional methods of soaking, sprouting and souring grains in order to make them digestible and nutritious have been abandoned for a fast and convenient method of mass producing food.

What Is the Gut-Brain Connection?

Impact on Anxiety

The microbes in the gut play a significant role in human body function. The gut microbiome is responsible for everyday functions, including digestion and t he nutrient absorption.

Research shows that stress is intimately tied to our guts - thereby proving the gut-brain connection. We know that gut health influences anxiety and the body's response to stress as part of the brain-gut connection.

4. Eat Healthy Fats Healthy fats are essential for brain development. Olive oil, for instance, includes a high amount of antioxidants that protect your cells from damage. It also helps improve memory and cognitive function, and works as an anti-inflammatory.

The gut and brain work in a “bi-directional manner,” which means that gut health can impact stress, anxiety, depression and cognition. Scientific studies show that the gut is home to the enteric nervous system (ENS). Separate from the central nervous system, the ENS is made up of two thin layers with more than 100 million nerve cells in them - more than the spinal cord. These cells line the gastrointestinal tract, controlling blood flow and secretions to help the gastrointestinal tract digest food. They also help us “feel” what's happening inside the gut, since this second brain is behind the mechanics of food digestion. While the second brain doesn't get involved in thought processes like political debates or theological reflection, studies suggest that it does control behavior on its own. Researchers believe this came about to make digestion more efficient in the body. Instead of having to “direct” digestion through the spinal cord and into the brain and back, we developed an on-site brain that could handle things closer to the source. Because this second brain is so complex, scientists aren't convinced that it was designed as just a way to aid in digestion. So while it isn't capable of thoughts, it does “talk” to the brain in major ways.

Impact on Depression

By Kissairis Munoz 32

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

are responsible for a variety of health conditions, from obesity to type 2 diabetes to migraines. 2. Eat Probiotics Eating probiotic-rich foods, like kefir and sauerkraut, can also cause your gut and mood to thrive. Probiotics are good bacteria that primarily line your gut and are responsible for nutrient absorption and supporting your immune system.

As it turns out, your nervous stomach isn't such a coincidence. In fact, the more we learn about the human gut, or our gut microbiome, the more it's clear that it really is our “second brain.”

The Gut-Brain Connection: How It Works + How to Support It

depression. Researchers found that twice as many patients saw improvements from depression when they took a probiotic as compared to the other patients who took a placebo.

The gut microbiome appears to play a role in depression. The microflora has proved to benefit mental health by enhancing the microbiome content in our GI systems. Researchers have learned that healthy gut microflora transmits brain signals through pathways that are involved in brain neuron formation and behavioral control. They also proved that inflammation affects the brain and how someone thinks, which explains why more than 20 percent of inflammatory bowel disease patients exhibit depressed behaviors. One study illustrated how the gut and brain are connected through studying the effects of probiotics on patients with irritable bowel syndrome and

Our bodies respond to stress with a “fight or flight system,” related to our cortisol levels and which we know is ruled by the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis. When something scary or worrying happens, like someone unexpectedly jumps in front of you, you have a physical reaction: Your palms might get sweaty, and you might feel your heartbeat quicken. Typically, if you're in a stressful situation that is then diffused, your body goes back to normal. However, if you're constantly stressed, your body is stuck in that fight or flight phase over an extended period of time. The critical part is that our bodies are unable to distinguish between physical and mental stress. Thus your body responds the same way if a bear shows up in your home as it does when you realize you hate your job - it tries to combat the stress. This constant state of stress causes chronic inflammation. The body reacts to the stress as a type of infection and tries to overcome it.

Avocado benefits range from protecting your heart to helping with digestion, but it's also a great pick for improving your mood. 5. Consume Mushrooms The shiitake mushroom contains plenty of vitamin B6. Because vitamin B6 impacts the production of serotonin and neurotransmitters, healthy B6 levels are associated with a positive mood and reducing stress naturally. It's also been shown to effectively treat mood disorders like depression in animal research. 6. Eat Nuts Have a small handful of nuts, like almonds, cashews, walnuts and Brazil nuts. Why? Research shows they're full of serotonin, a feel-good chemical that's in shor t supply when you're depressed. 7. Have Sesame Seeds Sesame seeds benefits stem from tyrosine, an amino acid that boosts the brain's dopamine levels. It kicks the feel-good hormone into high gear while balancing out the others.

Because inflammation is at the root of many diseases, this exposure to prolonged stress can have serious consequences for your health, ranging from high blood pressure to autoimmune disorders. The types of bacteria found in the gut - “good bacteria” - play a role in how our immune responses are regulated.

We don't have all the answers on the gut-mood link just yet, but one thing is certain: Our bodies and minds are much more connected than you believe. Taking care of one part will reap benefits for the rest of you.

Natural Ways to Improve Your Gut-Brain Connection

Final Thoughts

While there's still much to uncover about the mystery of the gut and all it affects, we are sure of a few things you should do to improve your gut-brain connection.

• The microbes in the gut play a significant role in human body function. They are responsible for everyday functions, including digestion and the nutrient absorption, and gut health has a significant impact on mental health. This is known as the gutbrain connection.

1. Avoid Processed Foods For starters, a whole foods-based diet leads to a gut with a much different makeup than one that's been fed mainly refined and processed foods. Even worse, ultra-processed foods - like white bread, chips and snack cakes - make up nearly 60 percent of the average American's diet. The added sugar found in these foods, often disguised as different types of artificial sweeteners,

• Research shows that there's a connection between gut microbiota and mental health disorders like depression and chronic anxiety or stress. • The key is to improve gut health, which will reduce systemic inflammation and improve mental health thanks to the gut-brain connection.


spa therapies

Topical Vitamin D: A Superhero Solution for Skin, Immunity, and Health By Julie Keller Callaghan - Well Defined While vitamin D has long been known as a powerful ingredient for health and wellbeing, the pandemic has brought it to the forefront due to research that has found a correlation between high levels of vitamin D and a lower the risk of COVID-19 infection. But that’s just one aspect of its many benefits. When applied topically, vitamin D is also helpful in promoting overall health, and it’s known to be a potent ingredient for skin. For all of these reasons and more, it’s in the running for the year’s most coveted—and powerful—ingredient for health, wellbeing, and beauty.

Vitamin D & Immunity Interestingly, vitamin D acts less like a vitamin and more like a hormone in that it impacts almost any cell it comes in contact with, according to Ralph Esposito, a naturopathic physician, acupuncturist, and functional medicine practitioner specializing in integrative urology and endocrinology and medical advisor to Athletic Greens. “With such far-reaching effects and its ability to bind to specific vitamin D receptors (VDR) in the cell, it can influence the effectiveness of our macrophages, a type of immune white blood cell,” he explains. “In order for our macrophages to identify and engulf foreign pathogens, it must first recognize them, swallow them, and then release molecules to kill the foreigner— viruses, bacteria, etc. In order to do all of this, our immune cells absolutely need vitamin D to finish the job and be able to produce these bactericidal and antimicrobial molecules. Without vitamin D, our immune cells can’t build a robust response.”

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made in the skin and utilized by the body for healthy functions, according to Celeste Hilling, founder and CEO of Skin Authority and a longtime researcher on vitamin D and skincare. She also points out that D3 is more effective at raising blood levels of D in the body for sufficiency.

Vitamin D & Skin While the immunity boosting benefits of vitamin D are impressive, the skincare solutions it provides are equally inspiring. According to Hilling, it has a rather significant impact on skin health. It controls epidermal cell proliferation, which is essential for growth, healing, and barrier function. It creates a protein that protects against free-radical and oxidative damage as well as an antimicrobial protein that promotes wound healing and reduces inflammation. It also regulates the growth cycle of mature hair follicles and strengthens keratin levels. As for its role in beauty, Hilling says vitamin D is truly a game-changer. It keeps skin moist and glowing, reduces photo aging and sun damage, protects from environmental damage, and encourages growth of hair and nails.

Vitamin D Deficiency

Additionally, Esposito says vitamin D helps keep our immune cells from overreacting and allows them to react appropriately to certain foreigners. “When our body is prepped and ready to release these inflammatory molecules called cytokines to kill a foreigner, vitamin D helps them elicit an appropriate and non-excessive response,” he says. “In short, vitamin D prevents overreactions of our adaptive immune system.”

With such blissful benefits, it’s unfortunate to note that most people (some reports claim up to 70% of the population) are deficient in vitamin D. Hilling says there are number of reasons for this, including hormonal decline, skin pigmentation, seasonality, and less outdoor exposure. “The skin needs D to make D,” she explains. “Vitamin D production initiates in the skin when the skin is exposed to UVB rays. The rays interact with the D present in the skin, causing a chemical reaction that produces vitamin D. Because D is more of a hormone than a vitamin, levels of D in our skin decrease as we age, making it harder to produce D naturally (even when exposed to the sun). As our population lives longer, this becomes more important to address.”

Also, when we talk beneficial vitamin D, we generally mean vitamin D3, which is the primary source of D

Hilling also points out that more than 60% of our population has darker skin types and that pigment

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

in skin acts like an SPF, slowing penetration of UVB into the skin and thus slowing vitamin D production. As such, Hispanic, African American, and Middle Eastern populations are among the most D deficient. Another issue? Lack of sun, whether it is shorter exposure to daylight, either seasonally or people simply not spending much time outside. Reduced sun exposure and its natural ability to stimulate vitamin D production also contributes to the issue. While some foods like mushrooms, salmon, sardines, liver, egg yolk, and cod liver oil are very rich in vitamin D, they are not so common in most people’s diets, yet another factor that leads to vitamin D deficiency, according to Esposito. As for ingestible vitamin D? Hilling suggests what she calls a “nutrition sandwich” and encourages her clients eat vitamin D-rich foods, take a daily supplement with at least 600 IUs of vitamin D, and apply it topically for the most benefits. “Because less than 1 percent of what we ingest actually makes its way to the skin, you also want to apply it topically, in the same way that we now understand the power of applying vitamin C topically,” she says. “The real power of topical vitamin D is in its anti-inflammatory properties, which address many persistent skin conditions like acne, eczema, and rosacea. Because it also contains a microprotein that can neutralize pollution effects, it helps with contact dermatitis and skin allergies. Finally, it is key to building skin immunity to defend against environmental damage as it strengthens the skin barrier, repairs, and regenerates cell function.” While incorporating vitamin D-infused products into a skincare routine seems like a no-brainer, Hilling does have a word of caution and a suggestion to do your research. “It is important to note that the type of D, the level of D, the formulation efficacy, and added carriers with D are critically important to creating a vitamin D product that can produce noticeable skin improvement,” she says. “Just adding D to a product does not mean it will produce results.”



spa therapies What would you think about eating a mushroom that looks a little like the scruff of a lion? Not totally convinced about lion's mane mushroom? What if I told you that it's associated with major brain repair, potential cancer-fighting power and is undergoing research on dozens of other health benefits? Lion's mane mushroom is a nootropic food very popular in traditional Chinese medicine. A large body of research has focused around this brainboosting mushroom in the last few years, and the results are nothing shor t of astounding. One study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry lists the benefits by stating lion's mane mushroom is “antibiotic, anticarcinogenic, antidiabetic, anti-fatigue, antihypertensive, antihyperlipodemic, anti-senescence [anti-aging], cardioprotective, hepatoprotective, nephroprotective, and neuroprotective, and improves anxiety, cognitive function, and depression.”

What Is Lion's Mane Mushroom? Known in Latin as Hericium erinaceus, lion's mane is native to North America, Europe and Asia, although it's not cultivated widely in areas outside of Asia. It's sometimes referred to as Hedgehog Mushroom, Yamabushitake or Houtou, and it belongs to the tooth fungus, or hydnoid fungi, group. Lion's mane mushrooms have long, dangling spines that are usually greater than a centimeter in length. Unlike most mushroom species, which have spines that project from a branch, the spines of Hericium erinaceus project outward, giving it that unique look of a lion's mane. These mushrooms grow on both living and dead broadleaf trees and are common in the late summer and fall months.

2. May Help Protect Against Cancer Lion's mane may also be significant in helping treat cancer, according to a host of research. In varying degrees, compounds from or supplementation with lion's mane mushroom has been found to potentially slow the progression or reverse the spread of: Leukemia, Gastric (stomach) cancer, Lung cancer, Cervical cancer, Liver cancer, Colon cancer or Breast cancer.

Some sources state that it was reserved for royalty at different times in the past.

Benefits

Lion's Mane Mushroom:

1. Enhances Brain Function and Benefits the Nervous System

The Potential Brain-Boosting, Cancer-Fighting Powerhouse By Dr. Josh Axe, DC, DNM, CN

One method by which lion's mane affects brain function is by enhancing “neurite outgrowth” in the brain and related organs, according to research published in the International Journal of Medicinal Mushrooms. Neurite outgrowth refers to the growth of axons and dendrites from neurons. That's a big deal in brain health research. By increasing this growth, it could potentially be possible to slow or reverse cell degeneration in the brain the main characteristic of diseases like Alzheimer's and Parkinson's.

36

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Lion's mane seems to have the ability to enhance immune system function in a manner also related to the polysaccharide content in the fungus, according to research performed on mice. 9. Might Be Useful for Managing Diabetes

Lion's mane mushroom might also help you in preventing heart disease. In vitro and animal research has found that extracts of lion's mane can prevent the increase of LDL cholesterol (sometimes referred to as “bad” cholesterol), increase HDL, or “good,” cholesterol and lower triglycerides in the bloodstream, an early indicator of heart disease. An extract of lion's mane mushroom may be able to prevent blood clots and help reduce the risk of stroke, according to a study from the Graduate School of Pharmaceutical Sciences at Tohoku University in Japan.

A 2013 animal study showed marked improvement in blood glucose levels, insulin sensitivity and various other diabetes symptoms. Possibly because of the antioxidant activity of lion's mane, administering it to animals also seems to relieve pain caused by diabetic neuropathy.

Nutrition Research suggests that lion's mane is a source of at least 32 bioactive compounds. Although it's hard to pinpoint the vitamin and mineral content of lion's mane, it's believed to be a rich source of potassium, zinc, iron and selenium.

4. Might Improve Digestive Health Due in part to its powerful anti-inflammatory properties, lion's mane mushroom might improve the function of your stomach and digestive system. In multiple studies, lion's mane mushroom has been shown to protect from or shrink gastric ulcers. Lion's mane may also significantly improve symptoms of two major inflammatory disorders of the digestive system, gastritis and inflammatory bowel disease, as shown in lab studies and research on mice.

A 2015 study out of Japan found that lion's mane mushroom was able to reduce inflammation in fatty tissue. This is important because fatty tissue inflammation is a factor in the formation of metabolic syndrome, a cluster of conditions that increase your risk of heart disease, stroke and diabetes. Lion's mane also has antibacterial effects against h. Pylori, often considered “the most successful pathogen in human history.” Many people never have symptoms of carrying the bacteria, but for some people it causes severe gastric conditions, like ulcers in the stomach and/or intestines. 6. Acts as a Powerful Antioxidant

Maybe the most thoroughly researched feature of lion's mane mushroom is its impact on brain cells and related functions. This incredible fungus may have revolutionary impact on neurodegenerative diseases.

8. Improves Immune Function

3. Supports Heart and Circulatory System Health

5. Reduces Inflammation Research shows that lion's mane possesses antiinflammatory, antioxidant and immunostimulating properties in cells, animals and humans. It has been used for thousands of years as a medicinal mushroom, especially among traditional Chinese medicine practitioners.

Consuming lion's mane mushroom may also be a natural way to help treat depression and anxiety.

The molecules in lion's mane mushroom have antioxidant abilities and help prevent and relieve the oxidative stress caused by poor nutrition and exposure to chemicals in the environment. These antioxidants may also: Help prevent osteoporosis, protect against alcohol-induced liver damage, as shown in research on mice, slow the aging of skin, as displayed in a study on rats 7. Improves Mental Health and Overall WellBeing A lion's mane mushroom supplement may also help you feel better by improving sleep and reducing the effects of mental health issues. It might have the ability to adjust circadian rhythms back to normal, which is particularly significant for people who are at risk for dementia.

One reason lion's mane has been researched for a wide variety of purposes is because of the polysaccharides it contains. Polysaccharides are complex carbohydrate structures, like glucose. Lion's mane mushroom contains beta-glucan polysaccharides, which are known scientifically to have correlations with various health benefits, like heart health and immune responses.

Risks and Side Effects Lion's mane mushroom is a generally safe food item. Multiple animal studies have found it to be non-toxic at different dosages, even over extended periods of time. If you experience any symptoms, such as burning/itching skin, inability to breathe properly or swollen lips, consult your doctor immediately.

Final Thoughts •Lion's mane mushroom is an edible fungus grown in Asia, Europe and North America. • It has been used for millennia as a medicinal food in traditional Chinese medicine and other ancient medicinal practices. • Due to the presence of unique polysaccharides and other nutrients, lion's mane mushroom has a large number of health benefits. • The two most well-known benefits of consuming lion's mane are the potential ability to prevent or protect the spread of neurodegenerative disease and cancer. • Lion's mane mushroom may also help improve heart health, protect from inflammatory digestive issues, reduce inflammation, relieve oxidative stress, improve mental health, boost immunity and prevent diabetes. • Lion's mane is not available in most Western grocery locations, but you can grow your own or take it in supplement form.


spa therapies What would you think about eating a mushroom that looks a little like the scruff of a lion? Not totally convinced about lion's mane mushroom? What if I told you that it's associated with major brain repair, potential cancer-fighting power and is undergoing research on dozens of other health benefits? Lion's mane mushroom is a nootropic food very popular in traditional Chinese medicine. A large body of research has focused around this brainboosting mushroom in the last few years, and the results are nothing shor t of astounding. One study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry lists the benefits by stating lion's mane mushroom is “antibiotic, anticarcinogenic, antidiabetic, anti-fatigue, antihypertensive, antihyperlipodemic, anti-senescence [anti-aging], cardioprotective, hepatoprotective, nephroprotective, and neuroprotective, and improves anxiety, cognitive function, and depression.”

What Is Lion's Mane Mushroom? Known in Latin as Hericium erinaceus, lion's mane is native to North America, Europe and Asia, although it's not cultivated widely in areas outside of Asia. It's sometimes referred to as Hedgehog Mushroom, Yamabushitake or Houtou, and it belongs to the tooth fungus, or hydnoid fungi, group. Lion's mane mushrooms have long, dangling spines that are usually greater than a centimeter in length. Unlike most mushroom species, which have spines that project from a branch, the spines of Hericium erinaceus project outward, giving it that unique look of a lion's mane. These mushrooms grow on both living and dead broadleaf trees and are common in the late summer and fall months.

2. May Help Protect Against Cancer Lion's mane may also be significant in helping treat cancer, according to a host of research. In varying degrees, compounds from or supplementation with lion's mane mushroom has been found to potentially slow the progression or reverse the spread of: Leukemia, Gastric (stomach) cancer, Lung cancer, Cervical cancer, Liver cancer, Colon cancer or Breast cancer.

Some sources state that it was reserved for royalty at different times in the past.

Benefits

Lion's Mane Mushroom:

1. Enhances Brain Function and Benefits the Nervous System

The Potential Brain-Boosting, Cancer-Fighting Powerhouse By Dr. Josh Axe, DC, DNM, CN

One method by which lion's mane affects brain function is by enhancing “neurite outgrowth” in the brain and related organs, according to research published in the International Journal of Medicinal Mushrooms. Neurite outgrowth refers to the growth of axons and dendrites from neurons. That's a big deal in brain health research. By increasing this growth, it could potentially be possible to slow or reverse cell degeneration in the brain the main characteristic of diseases like Alzheimer's and Parkinson's.

36

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Lion's mane seems to have the ability to enhance immune system function in a manner also related to the polysaccharide content in the fungus, according to research performed on mice. 9. Might Be Useful for Managing Diabetes

Lion's mane mushroom might also help you in preventing heart disease. In vitro and animal research has found that extracts of lion's mane can prevent the increase of LDL cholesterol (sometimes referred to as “bad” cholesterol), increase HDL, or “good,” cholesterol and lower triglycerides in the bloodstream, an early indicator of heart disease. An extract of lion's mane mushroom may be able to prevent blood clots and help reduce the risk of stroke, according to a study from the Graduate School of Pharmaceutical Sciences at Tohoku University in Japan.

A 2013 animal study showed marked improvement in blood glucose levels, insulin sensitivity and various other diabetes symptoms. Possibly because of the antioxidant activity of lion's mane, administering it to animals also seems to relieve pain caused by diabetic neuropathy.

Nutrition Research suggests that lion's mane is a source of at least 32 bioactive compounds. Although it's hard to pinpoint the vitamin and mineral content of lion's mane, it's believed to be a rich source of potassium, zinc, iron and selenium.

4. Might Improve Digestive Health Due in part to its powerful anti-inflammatory properties, lion's mane mushroom might improve the function of your stomach and digestive system. In multiple studies, lion's mane mushroom has been shown to protect from or shrink gastric ulcers. Lion's mane may also significantly improve symptoms of two major inflammatory disorders of the digestive system, gastritis and inflammatory bowel disease, as shown in lab studies and research on mice.

A 2015 study out of Japan found that lion's mane mushroom was able to reduce inflammation in fatty tissue. This is important because fatty tissue inflammation is a factor in the formation of metabolic syndrome, a cluster of conditions that increase your risk of heart disease, stroke and diabetes. Lion's mane also has antibacterial effects against h. Pylori, often considered “the most successful pathogen in human history.” Many people never have symptoms of carrying the bacteria, but for some people it causes severe gastric conditions, like ulcers in the stomach and/or intestines. 6. Acts as a Powerful Antioxidant

Maybe the most thoroughly researched feature of lion's mane mushroom is its impact on brain cells and related functions. This incredible fungus may have revolutionary impact on neurodegenerative diseases.

8. Improves Immune Function

3. Supports Heart and Circulatory System Health

5. Reduces Inflammation Research shows that lion's mane possesses antiinflammatory, antioxidant and immunostimulating properties in cells, animals and humans. It has been used for thousands of years as a medicinal mushroom, especially among traditional Chinese medicine practitioners.

Consuming lion's mane mushroom may also be a natural way to help treat depression and anxiety.

The molecules in lion's mane mushroom have antioxidant abilities and help prevent and relieve the oxidative stress caused by poor nutrition and exposure to chemicals in the environment. These antioxidants may also: Help prevent osteoporosis, protect against alcohol-induced liver damage, as shown in research on mice, slow the aging of skin, as displayed in a study on rats 7. Improves Mental Health and Overall WellBeing A lion's mane mushroom supplement may also help you feel better by improving sleep and reducing the effects of mental health issues. It might have the ability to adjust circadian rhythms back to normal, which is particularly significant for people who are at risk for dementia.

One reason lion's mane has been researched for a wide variety of purposes is because of the polysaccharides it contains. Polysaccharides are complex carbohydrate structures, like glucose. Lion's mane mushroom contains beta-glucan polysaccharides, which are known scientifically to have correlations with various health benefits, like heart health and immune responses.

Risks and Side Effects Lion's mane mushroom is a generally safe food item. Multiple animal studies have found it to be non-toxic at different dosages, even over extended periods of time. If you experience any symptoms, such as burning/itching skin, inability to breathe properly or swollen lips, consult your doctor immediately.

Final Thoughts •Lion's mane mushroom is an edible fungus grown in Asia, Europe and North America. • It has been used for millennia as a medicinal food in traditional Chinese medicine and other ancient medicinal practices. • Due to the presence of unique polysaccharides and other nutrients, lion's mane mushroom has a large number of health benefits. • The two most well-known benefits of consuming lion's mane are the potential ability to prevent or protect the spread of neurodegenerative disease and cancer. • Lion's mane mushroom may also help improve heart health, protect from inflammatory digestive issues, reduce inflammation, relieve oxidative stress, improve mental health, boost immunity and prevent diabetes. • Lion's mane is not available in most Western grocery locations, but you can grow your own or take it in supplement form.


spa therapies

What Is a Gua Sha Facial and Can It Transform Your Skin?

Facial Gua Sha is technically nothing new, but it's having a major moment in the beauty world. And while it feels just as lovely as it sounds, the benefits actually extend way past relaxation and lessened tension - it's linked to clearer skin, fewer wrinkles and a more sculpted youthful appearance.

What is Facial Gua Sha? Pronounced gwa sha, it's a facial treatment that involves scraping a flat jade or rose quartz stone over the skin in upward strokes to relax stiff muscles and promote tissue drainage. But unlike a traditional Gua Sha massage, it won't leave bruise-like marks on your face as it's done with a much lighter hand. Oh, and you can do it yourself at home.

What are the benefits of Gua Sha? It moves lymphatic fluids and breaks down tension in muscles. That means improved blood flow and less puffiness. Per NYC-based aesthetician and owner of Inderma Studio, Nichelle Temple, you'll see “noticeable results while preventing and treating the signs of premature aging - namely in the appearance of wrinkles, dark eye circles and puffiness, and sagging and dull-looking skin.” The increase in circulation is said to up hydration for that

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coveted youthful glow, and it even helps the skin to naturally purge blemish-causing dirt and oils.

How do you use a Gua Sha tool? You should start at the neck and work your way up to the forehead. This way, you're creating a clear path for the fluids in your face to drain. Follow these steps to perk up your complexion: 1. Prep your skin with a facial mist and oil. 2. Start at the neck and work your way up to the forehead. 3. Use upward and outward strokes on the neck, jawline, chin and mouth area. 4. Sweep across the cheeks, press gently under the eyes and across the eyebrows. 5. End with upward strokes on the forehead to the hairline

How do you choose the correct Gua Sha tool? The teardrop-shaped Gua Sha tool is often touted as the best one to start with, as it's easy to grip in your hand and has a large surface area for the cheek and neck. If you want to focus on the jaw bone, the square Gua Sha features double prongs that help specifically target that area. For smaller, more delicate parts of the face (like the under-eye

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

By Brianna Lapolla

or the area around the lips), look for a tool that has a very precise and petite edge, like this jade version from Hayo'u. For a tool that mimics an actual massage, look for one with a scalloped edge, like this rose quartz one. “The side is designed to mimic my knuckles, and the goal is to re-create [the] facial massage I do in my clinic with the gua sha,” explains aesthetician Angela Caglia.

How often should you do a Gua Sha facial? You'll notice the best results if you do it every day, but since even taking our multivitamins every day is hard enough, experts say two to three times per week will do. And the time of day you add Gua Sha to your routine matters, too. “In the morning, it's about treating puffiness and energizing the skin, while at night you work more on relaxing the muscles and releasing tight connective tissue,” Katie Brindle, the founder of the Hayo'u Method told Porter.

What kind of results will you see on your skin? Less puffy eyes and sharper cheekbones are two immediate results (cheers to instant gratification), but doing it three-ish times a week might yield an improvement in acne, dryness and wrinkles.



spa therapies

Can Health Tech ‘Extend’ Life Through Anti-Aging Solutions and Products? By Isaiah Richard, Tech Times Health Tech was said to have products that can help to "Extend Life" as we know it, and these are the many anti-aging solutions out there, apart from beauty creams or cosmetic focuses. The technology was built to "revitalize" the body for a better process, and in turn, this would help in slowing the aging process as it makes the body healthier and better.

Health Tech's Anti-Aging Solutions to 'Extend' Life Anti-aging is a vague and ubiquitous term that is seen in almost every product as people have an inevitable opponent (not Thanos) in their everyday life, and it is Time. Yes, it is the construct and flow of time that provides a challenge to the existence of a person, as it is true that everyone has an expiration date with an unknown future for them. However, according to the Entrepreneur, several technologies are looking into health tech to solve this problem, helping a person to prolong their life.

Hardware Tech for Anti-Aging Hardware technology has been developed by

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researchers, and they are testifying that it can help in slowing down aging as we know it.

Aging, Is It in the Head or Body?

Cryotherapy, for one, is a massive health booster for many reasons, and it could be applied as a local treatment or for the entire body. Cryo chambers are already having machines for the home and via clinics, and via this, people can revitalize different functions in the body and help avoid aging.

A lot of people regard that health as all in the head and can be a "mindset" of a person in moving forward and pushing through. However, some people argue that it is all in the body, and by making the body a "temple," it would be healthy for a long time and help in making a person feel "young" despite their Earth rotation-based age.

Another focus of hardware tech is beds, and it refers to the previous researchers that claim sleep has a massive connection to life expectancy and longevity.

Software Tech for Anti Aging Another focus is through software or apps that are accessible via wearable tech, smartphones, tablets, and computers. One of the best examples here is mood tracking technology, as well as stress management apps that help in controlling one's temper and feelings. The more pressure there is in the mind, the more it overworks the body and shows signs of aging.

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The measure of oldness or age is both in the mind and body, as the human mind and body are trainable via exercise and the "law of attraction" to be what it wants or needs to be. Technology may help, and while it is not a clear-cut win, it still provides help in making the body feel like its old self again. However, it is worth noting that it would have different effects on other people, as not everyone is the same, and all have their uniqueness to their bodies. Nevertheless, these solutions, paired with a healthy mind and fitness, will help along the way.



spa therapies

Anti-Oxy-What? Even though aging is a fact of life, there are many things that we can do in order to avoid illnesses and even slow down the rate at which we age. By making a few simple changes in our lifestyles and habits, we can make improvements toward happiness, longevity and our quality of life. In a variety of ways today's consumers use antioxidants to slow the aging process, reduce the degenerative aging process, not to mention lead a healthier lifestyle both inside and out.

Free Radicals One of the main culprits that speed up the degenerative processes comes in the form of free radicals. These are chemically active compounds work to break down cells. They are the very same chemical compounds that lead to cancer, aging or other diseases. Free radicals are found throughout our environment, and with the onset of pollution, they are more prevalent in larger cities.

Protection from the sun is not enough to prevent free radicals from damaging the body, since day-to-day living with pollution forces us to breathe in harmful radicals that damages cells at the molecular level. Combined with the poor diets and nutritional levels, more damage will be done within our bodies if preventative measures are not taken to cleanse ourselves of them.

Reducing Free Radicals

Antioxidants in Cosmetic Products

One of the simplest ways to reduce the excess of free radicals from the body is to avoid or minimize the exposure to locations or products that contain them. Pollutants, carcinogens and toxins are all known to increase the risk of certain cancers in the humans.

Men and women are always looking for ways to increase their appearance and longevity, especially through antioxidant-rich foods and cosmetic products. While the body uses enzymes, vitamins and minerals to get rid of free radicals, the skin is also susceptible to radicals that cause aging. Antiaging antioxidant products improve skin tone and reduce wrinkles, just as it would be used to improve internal cells and reduction of free radicals.

Different foods are rich in antioxidants, and work hard to reduce or neutralize the impact external free radicals has on the body. Aside from the usefulness in protection that antioxidants provide for the body, the need for them as well as essential fatty acids increases, as the body grows older.

How does the oxidation process occur? Throughout life, the body is constantly regenerating cells. Our bodies even produce free radicals of its own. However, when the body produces too many free radicals, cancers or life-threatening diseases are formed as a result of cellular DNA mutations.

Fruits, along with their skin and seeds, contain valuable antioxidants that reduce the amount of free radicals, as well as help to slow down the aging process. Leafy green vegetables provide antioxidants that not only help slow down the process of aging, but also reduce many risks of age related diseases caused by a lifetime of exposure to free radicals.

Antioxidants work throughout the body to protect DNA, organs and tissues from damage. As our body ages, the production of antioxidants decrease, facilitating many of the diseases found in older people. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun, industrial pollution and crowded environmental living conditions all play a role in subjecting our bodies to damaging aging processes. These same conditions have deteriorated the Earth's ozone layer, which is responsible for

concentrated 10-40 mg of polyphenols, one supplement provides the body with the same amount of antioxidants that many servings of fruits and vegetables would. Lipoic acid is also a powerful antioxidant responsible for counteracting radicals found in the mitochondria, where all energy for cells is generated. The free radicals formed there play a major role in the aging processes of the body. Other antioxidants include vitamins or minerals like: Vitamin A, Vitamin B-12, Beta Carotene, Folic Acid and Vitamin E

These radicals go through a chemical process called oxidation , in which they damage or alter our DNA, creating physical changes that deteriorate our mind and body. Oxidation is one of the main processes responsible for the most significant symptoms of aging and degeneration.

The good news is that a healthy body also produces antioxidants, which neutralizie the free radicals that can harm our health and physical wellbeing.

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protecting us from harmful UV rays and sun exposure that increases cancer risk.

Antioxidants and Useful Supplements Supplements increase the protection from free radicals and oxidation, but taking too many of them can be just as harmful for the body. Maintaining a healthy diet is one of the best ways to protect the organs from "supplement overload", and will provide optimal benefits through the combining action and absorption of other vitamins and minerals. Some antioxidant supplements include grape seed extract, garlic pills, and fish oils, which are mostly found around other vitamins and minerals. Green tea extract is one of the best antioxidants because it contains polyphenols and flavonols . With its

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Three products, when used together, can make up a healthy antiaging skin care regimen: Skin supplements, serums, day creams and night creams, together with regular professional facials. Antioxidant antiaging creams are one of the solutions that reduce aging, and keep skin cells fresh and wrinkle-free.

Conclusion Aging is a part of life, but it does not have to take over the body in such negative ways. While living in today's hectic societies, we are exposed to numerous health hazards such as pollution, industrial emissions, harmful sun exposure and stress. Still, the use of antioxidants is a natural way to offset some of that damage. Free radicals can be harmful to our bodies both internally and externally, but antioxidants are there to protect us when we need it the most. Be sure to live an active lifestyle to reduce the chance of contracting age-related illnesses and diseases, and eat healthy and balanced meals with adequate vitamins and minerals that also contain antioxidants that could potentially save your life. Use basic nutrition knowledge to your advantage and your body will thank you for it.



spa therapies

Sustainable, Beauty and the Spa Industry. Our Q&A with Davide Bollati, Chair of Davines Group By Becca Douglas - The Sustainable Spa Association

Davide Bollati, chair of Davines Group, is a true pioneer of sustainability. He joined Davines, his family company, in 1992, having first completed a degree in pharmacy from Parma University and a masters in cosmetic science from Farleigh Dickinson University in the US. His leadership of Davines, the parent company of Sustainable Spa Association brand partner, Comfort Zone, has been characterised by a drive to achieve Sustainable Beauty - a term which Bollati describes as a “combination of plant chemistry and respect for the environment and society”. This approach has resulted in Davines Group being widely recognised as a company with a strong commitment to both ethics and sustainability. As a hallmark of this commitment to sustainability, the group became a B Corporation in 2016. The company's status as a “B-Corp” means that, as a business, it balances purpose and profit and is legally required to consider the impact its decisions have on its workers, customers, suppliers, community and the environment. The Sustainable Spa Association spoke to Davide about all things sustainability - from his passion for the topic and the role played in the SSA in promoting sustainability.

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Q: Sustainable Beauty is a term strongly associated with both Davines Group and you personally - what does it mean to you? I've always had a passion for a type of chemistry that takes experience from nature and is in harmony with the planet. Early on in my career, however, it was just that - a passion, it wasn't very well structured.

77,000sq m, of which 80 per cent is allocated to green space. The scientific garden is central to operations and run by our chemists. It is a sort of experimental garden - it is relatively small but it allows us to start the research on the ingredients we use in our products.

In 2005, however, we decided to attach sustainable beauty firmly onto the brand identity of Davines Group, so for the past 16 years it has been very much a part of what we do as a company. Becoming a B-Corp was a big step too, and we've learned to better measure our sustainable practices. We've now embedded sustainability in our industrial strategy, so it's very much part of our routine and our daily work.

As a beauty company, it's important that our products “work”. But as we've made a commitment to find and only use ingredients that are also environmentally sustainable, the research we conduct is all about finding a balance between the two.

Q: Your HQ, Davines Village, located in Parma, is often highlighted as an example of your commitment to sustainability? Could you tell readers about that?

As a result, we're now reinventing our supply chain. It is a chain based on regenerative organic agriculture. We want every product to have a product life cycle and a score card which measures that.

The Davines Village is a place where everything happens - from the beginning to the end of our industrial process. It includes our offices, our research and development laboratory, the production plant and the warehouse. It also features our scientific garden and greenhouse. The total area is around

Q: What do you see as the biggest challenges you see, when it comes to being sustainable?

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We want ingredients that, for example, rejuvenate the skin, but are also sustainable. We aren't satisfied with just ticking one of the boxes.

For us, there are two. The first is a lack of technology that would allow a systemic transition from unsustainable into more



spa therapies

sustainable operations. There are several areas in which the technology is lacking - everything from energy, materials, packaging and chemistry in general. In principle, it could be very simple - all we really need is sun, water and soil to grow the things we need. But, as humans, we are spoiled and we want everything here and now. We don't count externalities, we don't measure externalities and we don't pay for externalities. This leads to the second challenge, which is consumer education. It takes generations to turn attitudes. The current young generation is in a different world and they are beginning to see things in a different way. It will be interesting to see how those who are now in their teens will go and what their attitudes will be like when they are in their 20s and 30s and so on.

Q: What would your advice be to companies which might have those conflicts? For example, a company which wants to use an ingredient that it knows “works” - but also knows it's not sustainable? My advice would be that they need to decide whether the decision relates to a short-term goal or a long-term one. If it's a short term one, then taking short cuts might be ok.

Q: Are you ever prevented from doing something (as a company) by the ethics you adhere to? Is there ever a conflict between sustainability and “business sense”?

But if the company is planning for the long term, they shouldn't compromise. The return they get from it is improved trust in the brand, increased credibility and an enhanced reputation.

There is never a conflict, because when it comes to ethics we have a higher purpose and the three core things - beauty, ethics and sustainability - are part of our DNA. If there is something that has no beauty, no ethics or no sustainability, we don't even consider it.

Q: How valuable do you see organisations such as the Sustainable Spa Association, when it comes to providing support to the industry?

The beauty industry can be a bit strange and over the years we've had companies come out with shampoos using caviar and products with diamond dust and all kind of crazy stuff.

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From a Davines Group point of view, perhaps my biggest frustration is that our most sustainable formulas across our product lines are not our best sellers. That tells us that there is still a lot to do when it comes to educating consumers. So it doesn't help when other beauty brands come out with products that include these crazy ingredients as a marketing gimmick. It feeds the wrong narrative.

Very important, especially considering the systematic changes we are now witnessing not only in the spa/beauty industry but in the wider society. I'd say that the only way for companies to succeed now, is to work according to the UN's 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Not even Amazon, which is probably the biggest and most powerful company in the world today - or Facebook or Apple - can do it all by themselves. So we really do have to come together to retransition our human journey on this planet. So in the small little corner of the tiny niche market that is the spa and wellness industry, it is very important for us to come together and to have an industry strategy, a plan and proper benchmarks to help us transition. And while the spa industry is small, it can be a very good influencer! When it comes to numbers, it is a small industry - but when it comes to influence, it's much bigger than its economical scope. Q: What would your message - or rallying call - be, to the spa and wellness industry when it comes to being more sustainable? My message would be that the spa industry has a lot of positive things it can do. The sector comes from a good place. This is because, as an industry, we can interpret and offer solutions during this very challenging period of transition. We're already used to looking at things in a holistic way and I think that the “business mind” of the spa industry is a mind that is more equipped to be more resilient. I think by looking at things in a more holistic way we can offer solutions which have good consequences for health, for people and for the planet.



spa innovation

The “Fitness Market” Is Far Bigger Than Gyms and Boutique Studios By Katherine Johnston and Opheli Yeung, GWI Physical activity is intrinsic to wellness, and it is no surprise that fitness has long been a major segment and a key driver of the wellness industry. In Move to be Well: The Global Economy of Physical Activity, GWI estimated that global consumers spent an estimated $108.6 billion (an average of $384 per participant) on doing fitness activities in 2018. When most people think about “fitness,” they probably think of memberships in gyms and health clubs or boutique studios. But the fitness market is far broader than just paid memberships or classes at commercial gyms, health clubs and studios. GWI estimates that 3.7% of the world’s population are members of gyms, health clubs and fitness studios and/or participate in structured or independent fitness activities or classes on a regular basis. GWI’s measurement of fitness participation is much broader than just the number of paying members at commercial gyms and health clubs, who only represent a portion of the market. We include membership and participation in a variety of other types of gyms and fitness classes—in public, nonprofit, university, hotel, outdoor, home, and other settings, both free and paid—as elaborated on below. People do fitness activities in a wide range of venues. GWI estimates that in 2018, about 190 million people were members of private/commercial gyms and fitness facilities across nearly 258,000 locations in 211 countries. This is what most studies generally consider to be the extent of the “fitness market.” However, there are many other ways to participate in fitness, and not all of them require monetary expenditures. Note that all data discussed here are

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from 2018, and this landscape has shifted dramatically during the COVID-19 pandemic—with even greater movement toward independent, outdoor and nongym-based fitness activities. • An additional 33.8 million people utilize public, nonprofit and public-private gyms and fitness facilities across more than 26,000 locations, typically with low or subsidized membership fees. These include: 1. Government-subsidized (but often privately run) gyms and leisure centers in the United Kingdom, Ireland, Spain, Australia and New Zealand; 2. Public and city-run gyms and community centers in Japan, United States, Canada, Singapore and the Nordic countries; 3. Nonprofit facilities such as YMCAs (which primarily offer fitness facilities in the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand and Japan but not in every location around the world; 4. Medical fitness centers (gyms integrated with health care providers, targeting populations with medical conditions, predominantly in the United States). • GWI estimates that there are over 21,000 free outdoor gyms and venues offering governmentsponsored/free fitness classes. Outdoor gyms (also known as “parques biosaludables” or “calisthenics parks”) are most common across Latin America, Europe, and some parts of Asia (especially in Singapore and larger cities in China and India). • Approximately 13.7 million people (mostly students and young adults) access gyms and fitness facilities on nearly 14,500 university campuses around the world.

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• An estimated 3,400 hotels offer public memberships to their fitness centers, serving about 2.3 million members. These gyms are primarily in high-end urban hotels and especially in developing countries. In lower-income countries, hotel gyms are sometimes the front-runner or only fitness offering targeting wealthy elites and expats, before the entry of stand alone commercial gyms. • GWI estimates that about 103.2 million people work out independently or at home, using treadmills, stationary bikes, weights and other home-based fitness equipment, as well as books, videos and other technologies. Note that a significant portion of this number overlaps with other categories above because many gym members also do workouts at home. Among those doing at-home workouts, an estimated 28.8 million subscribe to on-demand and streaming fitness services (via online platforms and mobile apps). Note that while GWI’s estimates for the fitness segment primarily focus on gym memberships across different types of facilities, this is not necessarily the best way to assess participation in fitness activities (although it is the most common and feasible measurement given the availability of data across countries). Paying for a gym membership does not necessarily mean that a person is actually going to the gym frequently or participating in classes. According to IHRSA’s 2018 consumer study, over 12% of Americans with health club memberships use them less than once a month. Another recent study in the United States found that 6.3% of Americans who have gym memberships do not use them at all (data from Finder.com). In fact, many gyms build their business models around a certain portion of members having low usage rates or not using the gym at all.



spa business

Last year, a man named Emile Ratelband marched into a court in the Netherlands and demanded the right to change his birthdate. Although he was 69 years old, he wanted to be 49 - at least on paper. Why erase two decades of his life? One reason, he told the judge, was to boost his chances of landing a job. Though the media poked fun at him, Ratelband had a point. In a culture enthralled with youth, being older can mean being written off. These days, the word “old” is so toxic that Dame Judi Dench banned its use in her home. When you type, “I lie about my…” into Google Search, “age” is the first response that comes up. Ageism is especially rife in the workplace. Older employees are often passed over for promotion, discarded first in hard times or fobbed off with unfulfilling work. Job interviews are harder to come by after you hit middle age. Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg once said, “Young people are just smarter.” But is that true? Are older workers a burden? Is the aging population a one-way ticket to plummeting productivity, dwindling innovation and the end of entrepreneurship? The answer to all three questions is a resounding, “No.” During the industrial era, putting older workers out to pasture made sense because factory jobs are harder to perform with an older body. But the world has changed. For a start, we are staying healthy longer. Today, gerontologists report that the average 65-yearold is in better shape than ever before. At the same time, brawn counts less in the modern workplace. What matters now is brainpower, which in many ways increases as we grow older.

Dispelling Ageist Myths In The Workplace

By Carl Honoré

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Aging boosts our ability to see the big picture and weigh multiple points of view. When tackling problems in a familiar field, we get better at spotting the patterns and details that open the door to finding a solution. Companies with suggestion boxes report that older staff generate more good ideas, with the best ones often coming from people 55 and older. Harvard University researchers concluded that four key skills - arithmetic, vocabulary, general

knowledge and a grasp of how the world works - do not ripen fully until around the age of 50. Creativity is certainly not confined to young people. History is studded with artists, from Michelangelo and Matisse to Beethoven and Bach, doing triumphantly creative work in later life. Momofuku Ando invented the instant noodle in his late 40s, Benjamin Franklin was 74 when he invented bifocals and Thomas Edison filed patents until his death at the age of 84. Today, John Goodenough is reinventing rechargeable batteries in his 90s. Maya Angelou was right when she said, “You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have.” It helps that the world is changing in ways that favor those with more mileage. Many disciplines have matured to the point where future breakthroughs will be made by mastering multiple domains and building upon work done by others. That means relying on two things only aging can confer: time and experience. No wonder Nobel science laureates are having their eureka moments later in life. Aging also can make us more socially adroit. We often get better at reading people, cooperating, negotiating, putting ourselves in others' shoes, finding compromises and resolving conflicts. That's why productivity rises with age in jobs that rely on social smarts. Bottom line: The phrase “finished at 40” is nothing more than weapons-grade nonsense. As Peter Cappelli, professor of management at the Wharton School, puts it: “Every aspect of job performance gets better as we age.” This even holds true when it comes to entrepreneurship. A study of the 2.7 million new businesses formed in the United States, between 2007 and 2014, reached a conclusion to gladden the heart of anybody on the “wrong” side of 40. Researchers stated: “We find no evidence to suggest that founders in their 20s are especially likely to succeed. Rather, all evidence points to founders being especially successful when starting businesses in middle age or beyond.” So, who's smarter now, “Zuck?” Let's not get carried away. Aging does take a toll. Older brains are often slower to retrieve certain memories, absorb information and solve math-based problems. Yet even that is no bar to thriving in the modern

workplace. Why? Because most jobs involve multiple forms of cognition, meaning the older brain can use its strengths - such as greater accuracy - to make up for any speed deficit. One example: In a survey of typists 19-72 years old, researchers found older people typed more slowly yet finished assignments as swiftly as their younger peers. How? They did so by looking further ahead in the text and therefore made fewer mistakes. As the old military adage goes, “Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.” The truth is that the biggest challenge in the workplace is not aging but ageism. How can we meet that challenge? Honesty is a good starting point. Lying about your age gives the number a power it does not deserve and reinforces the canard that younger is always better. Instead, own your age - then go out there and show the world what you can do. And that is more or less the advice the Dutch court gave Ratelband when rejecting his plea for a new birthdate. About Carl Honoré: A London-based bestselling author and popular TED speaker. His latest book, “Bolder: Making the Most of our Longer Lives,” explores how to age better and feel better about aging that also confronts ageism.


spa business

Last year, a man named Emile Ratelband marched into a court in the Netherlands and demanded the right to change his birthdate. Although he was 69 years old, he wanted to be 49 - at least on paper. Why erase two decades of his life? One reason, he told the judge, was to boost his chances of landing a job. Though the media poked fun at him, Ratelband had a point. In a culture enthralled with youth, being older can mean being written off. These days, the word “old” is so toxic that Dame Judi Dench banned its use in her home. When you type, “I lie about my…” into Google Search, “age” is the first response that comes up. Ageism is especially rife in the workplace. Older employees are often passed over for promotion, discarded first in hard times or fobbed off with unfulfilling work. Job interviews are harder to come by after you hit middle age. Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg once said, “Young people are just smarter.” But is that true? Are older workers a burden? Is the aging population a one-way ticket to plummeting productivity, dwindling innovation and the end of entrepreneurship? The answer to all three questions is a resounding, “No.” During the industrial era, putting older workers out to pasture made sense because factory jobs are harder to perform with an older body. But the world has changed. For a start, we are staying healthy longer. Today, gerontologists report that the average 65-yearold is in better shape than ever before. At the same time, brawn counts less in the modern workplace. What matters now is brainpower, which in many ways increases as we grow older.

Dispelling Ageist Myths In The Workplace

By Carl Honoré

50

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Aging boosts our ability to see the big picture and weigh multiple points of view. When tackling problems in a familiar field, we get better at spotting the patterns and details that open the door to finding a solution. Companies with suggestion boxes report that older staff generate more good ideas, with the best ones often coming from people 55 and older. Harvard University researchers concluded that four key skills - arithmetic, vocabulary, general

knowledge and a grasp of how the world works - do not ripen fully until around the age of 50. Creativity is certainly not confined to young people. History is studded with artists, from Michelangelo and Matisse to Beethoven and Bach, doing triumphantly creative work in later life. Momofuku Ando invented the instant noodle in his late 40s, Benjamin Franklin was 74 when he invented bifocals and Thomas Edison filed patents until his death at the age of 84. Today, John Goodenough is reinventing rechargeable batteries in his 90s. Maya Angelou was right when she said, “You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have.” It helps that the world is changing in ways that favor those with more mileage. Many disciplines have matured to the point where future breakthroughs will be made by mastering multiple domains and building upon work done by others. That means relying on two things only aging can confer: time and experience. No wonder Nobel science laureates are having their eureka moments later in life. Aging also can make us more socially adroit. We often get better at reading people, cooperating, negotiating, putting ourselves in others' shoes, finding compromises and resolving conflicts. That's why productivity rises with age in jobs that rely on social smarts. Bottom line: The phrase “finished at 40” is nothing more than weapons-grade nonsense. As Peter Cappelli, professor of management at the Wharton School, puts it: “Every aspect of job performance gets better as we age.” This even holds true when it comes to entrepreneurship. A study of the 2.7 million new businesses formed in the United States, between 2007 and 2014, reached a conclusion to gladden the heart of anybody on the “wrong” side of 40. Researchers stated: “We find no evidence to suggest that founders in their 20s are especially likely to succeed. Rather, all evidence points to founders being especially successful when starting businesses in middle age or beyond.” So, who's smarter now, “Zuck?” Let's not get carried away. Aging does take a toll. Older brains are often slower to retrieve certain memories, absorb information and solve math-based problems. Yet even that is no bar to thriving in the modern

workplace. Why? Because most jobs involve multiple forms of cognition, meaning the older brain can use its strengths - such as greater accuracy - to make up for any speed deficit. One example: In a survey of typists 19-72 years old, researchers found older people typed more slowly yet finished assignments as swiftly as their younger peers. How? They did so by looking further ahead in the text and therefore made fewer mistakes. As the old military adage goes, “Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.” The truth is that the biggest challenge in the workplace is not aging but ageism. How can we meet that challenge? Honesty is a good starting point. Lying about your age gives the number a power it does not deserve and reinforces the canard that younger is always better. Instead, own your age - then go out there and show the world what you can do. And that is more or less the advice the Dutch court gave Ratelband when rejecting his plea for a new birthdate. About Carl Honoré: A London-based bestselling author and popular TED speaker. His latest book, “Bolder: Making the Most of our Longer Lives,” explores how to age better and feel better about aging that also confronts ageism.




spa business

Putting Brand Truth into Practice “Truth in branding, like truth in life, is about authenticity, fair dealing, and simple straight talk”. Leading companies are putting this into practice through high quality content and product, portraying a “genuine empathetic understanding of the consumer.” Not only does this place more emphasis on the need to be real, but equally, on the need for proof.

Why Authenticity Matters Putting this brand truth into practice has always been important, but today, it's taking on a whole new role. It's now easier than ever to harm a brand's reputation by failing to make authenticity a priority, or by simply doing it wrong. We know this because trust and transparency are steadily gaining more importance for consumers, and as Paul Greenberg puts it: “If a customer likes you and continues to like you, they will do business with you. If they don't, they won't.” But the best way to get a customer to like you is by first getting to know them - which is where many companies

falter. Several leading companies have fallen victim to the pitfall of lacking the insight needed to make their efforts count. Spreading a message that's not rooted in consumer insights can harm companies trust as it lacks the empathy needed to resonate. The important lesson here is that putting brand truth into practice starts with understanding perceptions. Using in-depth research and insights to quantify perceptions and behaviors, you will know exactly what drives your audience and their interactions with your company, vastly improving your chances of appealing to the new consumer - who expects nothing less. This idea of authentic marketing is nothing new. Rooted in the simple idea that 'truth sells', it has become one of the most powerful marketing tools of today in response to this shift in consumer power. Whether B2B or B2C, authentic brands, in their simplest form, are those that lead with truth and transparency, removing the 'brand' element that sets them apart from the consumer, and replacing it with the 'human' element that drives connections.

Disposable Mani Table Protector from HDW Group Ideal for the upcoming Festive Season!! Mani Table Protector is Multi Cloth that is cut by our factory from the rolls 50cm x 40cm, to be put on top of the table to protect the table or towels from being soiled or stained from manicures. It is strong can be wiped down and is strong enough to handle acetone. Our products is unique imported and manufactured by us. We additionally have a large selection of disposable products to meet all your spa and salon requirements. For more information contact: Phillip 062 890 5398 info@hygienedisposablewear.co.za www.hygienedisposablewear.co.za

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83


HDW Group (PTY) LTD is the sole importer and manufacturer of Multi Cloth, Multi Roll. Multi Roll is a 80cm wide x 100m disposable impermeable material on a roll that is used in the beauty and medical industry. The material is completely water and oil repellent and will protect your bed linen and towels from being soiled and stained. Huge savings can be expected on Laundry costs. We have a wide range of products available, disposable pillow cases, fitted sheets, pre-cut 2m and much more. Our product is unique and completely different to the rest. Contact us for free samples to test.

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spa business

Our attitude to massage is wrong - we need to turn it on its head! By Beata Aleksandrowicz

The spa industry is at a bit of a crossroads. Almost 80 per cent of treatments are massage. Fact. However, clients generally associate massage with a quick fix to a physical problem. It’s regarded as a treat, something we pamper ourselves with – this remains the view of spas across the globe. This view does a disservice to massage, to massage therapists and to the potent power of touch. I so often hear spa managers complaining that massage makes up the majority of their business. We need to turn this on its head. We should celebrate it. People want massage, they crave it, they need it – they come to spas to receive the healing power of touch. We should look deeper at why clients love massage so much and ... capitalise on it. We should look deeper at why clients love massage so much and at ways, not only to serve and fulfil this need, but to capitalise on it. The power of touch is profound. It is the first and most powerful sense developed in utero and it’s the very first sense we use in life. However, because many of us have narrowed our view of massage to a simple physical fix, we have lost the understanding

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of how powerful and healing touch can be on both physical and emotional levels. We have a tendency separate these two levels, coming from a longestablished paradigm that body, mind and soul are separated.

Spas are in the most unique position; we connect with individuals who have deep physical and emotional needs. Yet we fall far short of fulfilling this and are sadly neither serving our clients nor achieving our business objectives.

We need to lose the illusion that the body is a separate machine

We need to train our teams to the highest level, enabling them with tools for the physical rigours of massage while teaching techniques to deal with the emotional release many people feel when excellent therapy is offered.

Touch awakens the senses using skin – the outer nervous system – as a bridge. And when we awaken the senses, we balance chemicals in the body, influencing mood and emotions. We need to lose the illusion that the body is a separate machine – body and mind are connected. Our mental state is important for the body, the body is hugely influential on the mind and a mindful, skilled massage therapist who is present in the moment and connected to their client can offer exceptional mental and physical results with deep tissue massage. By taking a fresh, new approach to massage I believe we can recapture the essence of this potent therapy. Spas are in the most unique position, connecting with individuals who have a deep physical and emotional need

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

If we adopt this new way of looking at massage, we will hopefully appreciate the profound effect a therapist can have on clients. And so understand and value them more. And realise too the need for limiting massages per day and providing adequate breaks between treatments to allow therapists to maintain the exceptional quality. Great massage will ensure the highest return of repeat custom. It’s guaranteed. About: Beata Aleksandrowicz is an international speaker, author, go-to spa and massage expert and founder of the world-renowned Aleksandrowicz System, formerly the Pure Massage Spa Training Method. She is a powerful advocate on educating people about the importance of touch, massage, wellbeing and spiritual growth.



spa business

Why The Spa Industry Needs To Invest In Education By Abi Selby, MD and Co-Founder of Spabreaks.com

The spa and wellness industry has grown by 20%* in the last three years as people recognise the importance of investing time in taking care of their mind, body and soul on a scale we haven’t seen before; adopting it as part of a routine instead of the odd treat. Incongruous to this growth, however, is the rate at which we as an industry are growing and nurturing our workforce. Since I founded Spabreaks.com more than 10 years ago, the pressure on existing professionals and venues to accommodate and care for more people enjoying treatments and facilities has steadily risen. Despite this, last year Derby University shared its decision to end its Spa Management course as of July 2020, one of the largest and most respected in the UK. This is hugely disappointing but not wholly surprising - the view taken by some educational bodies is that these courses provide an ‘easy route’ to a qualification or that they are not a ‘proper’ course, which is a misguided view at best. At SpaBreaks.com we are partnered with more than 800 spas in the UK and Europe, so we can confidently claim to have expert insight across the industry, and spas are looking for qualified, reliable therapists, who need to hone their skills and learn their trade somewhere. Stymying the supply of qualified personnel creates a challenge, at a time we're seeking credible solutions to a health crisis. As stress and depression continue to dominate the mental health agenda, demand for qualified therapists across the UK and around the world will only increase so it is counterintuitive to cut one of the most respected courses that provides professional-level training and education. Stymying the supply of qualified personnel creates a challenge for the industry - and society - at a time when we're all seeking credible solutions to the mental health and wellbeing crisis. At Spabreaks.com, we’re seeing sustained growth in bookings for spa breaks, with people spending more money and time on their wellbeing, which they need professionals to facilitate. Therapists - who let's face it are the spa industry - are declining and getting burnt out, so sustainability is going to be limited as we go into a new generation where we are not seeing spa and wellness as a 'proper' career. At its core, our industry is about caring for and helping people, providing both immediate relaxation and relief alongside longer lasting health benefits through expertise. Not everyone has the skill set to be a doctor or a nurse, but they can help people through massage and therapies, so by reducing their options we are cutting this off to many people who would aim for a career which allows them to help people in this way. It’s increasingly important to promote it as the fulfilling skilled profession it is. With people under more stress and strain than ever before, our industry needs to do more work to change the way a profession in wellness is seen. It is becoming increasingly important to tackle some of these issues in society and a career in wellness needs to be promoted as the incredibly important, fulfilling and skilled profession it is. We, as a whole, need to encourage people to view wellness as a viable and respected career choice, and provide them with the tools and resources needed to gain the skills and expertise customers expect.

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83



spa business

Are You Building Strong ‘Wellness Partnerships’? As we prepare for a new era of wellness, wellbeing expert Iain Bell asks if the spa industry is ready to lead their teams through the predicted boom. Wellness has never been in such high demand and will continue to boom thanks to greater spending power, staycations and a growing value perception of personal wellbeing. A recent global report by McKinsey & Company (April 2021), picks up on trends transforming business, citing 2021 as a year of transition and transformation in a global wellness industry estimated to be worth $1.5 trillion dollars. As industry providers we should continue to analyse the evolution of wellness and how customers have become more sophisticated. The McKinsey report shows strong consumer focus in expanding self-care categories encompassing preventative health, fitness, nutrition, sleep, mindfulness and personal appearance. Such growth markets are internet and app-driven but spa essentials such as fitness and beauty remain strong consumer contenders. Customers enjoy using facilities and a person-toperson experience.

Are you ready to lead? So where does this leave spa operators and managers? Undoubtedly, our industry has shown true flair in dealing with the ever more sophisticated personal care/wellbeing regimes of our guests. As spas have reopened, we have shown tenacity, perseverance and resilience to reset and rebuild attractive menus and introduce more depth with extended wellness programming. Yet, there is still much within the wellness market to elevate and improve the perceived value of professional spa and wellness services. The longevity and agility we will require to navigate the year ahead will lie squarely upon our commercial, and managerial capabilities and how our teams have been supported to embrace unprecedented growth. It’s truly challenging for every spa leader to take a proactive approach when facing staff shortages together with close to 100% bookings, week in, week out. The welcome return of guests to spas may help to make up for months of closure, but a greater price

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will inevitably come to bear if teams are not provided with self-care strategies, supported on their own wellness path and given tools to build resilience. Traditional output and demand measurements only show positive revenue and profitability. Behind your P&L may lie a tale of staff burnout, absenteeism and a negative domino effect. The post-pandemic approach must start to engage more with staff and lead them into a positive journey of wellness and accountability.

Effecting change through ‘wellness partnerships’ This is the beginning of new era for ‘wellness partnerships’ in our industry. In the post-pandemic spa world, managers and owners must continue to deliver a broad range of wellness content and knowledge and skills to harness progress. As part of this strategy we require full consensus with our teams on how each individual can integrate their wellness into work and into daily living. As managers we need long-term, effective programmes that everyone plays an active part in. This requires more than a team away day, but a bespoke strategy for each business and the market within which it operates. It requires courage, determination and honesty. A ‘wellness partnership’ is a way to unite our teams, champion work ethics and unlock greater individual and commercial opportunities.

How simplicity and cooperation can lead to evolution The first step as a spa owner or manager is to provide a broad range of wellness guidance. Ask questions about working patterns and environments, and focus on solutions to improve mental and physical capability through wellness. This stage is about more than work, it questions how we can add more value to life With full consensus an initial brief decides on how each individual can integrate their wellness into work and daily life. The use of digital technology, measurement and tailor-made content will guarantee positive change. The results are shared and celebrated. This is truly a 360-degree process and dual

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By Iain Bell- Sustainable Spa Association

commitment from management and team members is essential to promote honesty, accountability and longevity. Moving from wellness concepts into best practice creates positive dialogue about work and drives a healthier, happier working culture. More importantly it engenders the human qualities of gratitude, courage, integrity and passion. This is a reset button for self-responsibility and selfdevelopment. Our teams can utilise essential wellness windows to practice meditation with virtual reality headsets, learn about optimising nutrition at work, and using exercise bands and massage guns to ease the demands of spa therapy. The process puts the individual first, not the business or the customers. It aims to nurture a positive working culture and reverse work related injuries, illness and stress. It will encourage engagement, champion individuals inside and outside of work, and improve commercial viability, revenue and growth. Such ‘wellness partnerships’ will strengthen the future of our industry, ensuring loyalty, cohesive team dynamics and a positive working culture.

How to encourage your team to invest in themselves for a more fulfilling life 1. Dreams and dividends: What do they want from life? Ask how they will transform it into reality? Also, find out how they would like to profit and be rewarded? 2. Start with a map and compass: Ask them to write out their plans and attach timing objectives. Following the route with other colleagues will provide insight and inspiration from each others’ journeys . 3. Igniting spirit and soul: Encourage them to be their true, courageous selves and follow their ideal path. 4. A gameplan for life: Focusing on positive outcomes can help them create the future they want for themselves. Iain Bell is founder of the Executive Fitness Foundation. His global expertise spans over 30 years in wellness, health innovation and spa consulting. An expert wellbeing facilitator, educator, international speaker and writer, his passion is to connect holistic health with modern medicine.



spa business

Our Modern-Day Vesuvius Four curves we need to start flattening now. By Arianna Huffington, Thrive Global Founder & CEO

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As I look back at the long bygone era before the coronavirus, I keep being reminded of my visit to Pompeii, whose people were wiped out in the first century by a violent volcanic eruption. There had been many warning signs, including a severe earthquake, tremors, springs and wells that dried up, dogs that ran away and birds that no longer sang. And then the most obvious warning sign: columns of smoke belching out of Mount Vesuvius before the volcano blew its top, burying the city and its inhabitants under sixty feet of ash and volcanic rock. But the warning signs had been dismissed as “not particularly alarming.”

supply that fuels obesity and diabetes is a gruesome factory farming system that creates breeding grounds for antibiotic-resistant bacteria and pathogens leading to human infections. A new study in the Journal of the American Medical Association of thousands of hospitalized coronavirus patients in New York City provides staggering data making the connection between underlying conditions and the severity of coronavirus infections: nearly all patients had at least one chronic condition and 88% had at least two. Only 6% had no chronic health conditions.

There are plenty of echoes in our modern-day Vesuvius. I don't just mean the reports and repeated warnings from health officials that the government failed to heed. For years, we have lived with - and largely ignored as “not particularly alarming” continuous increases in chronic diseases, an accelerating mental health crisis and growing income inequalities - not to mention the escalating climate change crisis. These are our equivalents of tremors and belching smoke. And now, vulnerabilities in our physical and mental health and structural inequalities are disproportionately affecting our ability to slow the spread of the coronavirus. So here are four curves - in addition to the curve of coronavirus infections - that we need to start flattening now:

The pandemic has accelerated a pre-existing mental health crisis. Depression has for years been one of the world's leading causes of disability. And every 40 seconds, someone takes their own life. These conditions didn't just pave the way for our current mental health crisis. They are likely to shape the continuing crisis amplified by the pandemic. A recent report published in The Lancet warned that the mental health effects of the pandemic could “exceed the consequences of the 2019-nCoV epidemic itself.” Congress passed trillions of dollars in emergency coronavirus funding, but only a tiny portion was earmarked for mental health. As Paul Gionfriddo, president of the advocacy group Mental Health America, puts it, “if we don't do something about it now, people are going to be suffering from these mental health impacts for years to come.”

1. Chronic Diseases

3. Structural Inequalities

The pandemic has forced a reckoning around our failure to take action on chronic health conditions like diabetes, hypertension and obesity. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, six in 10 American adults have a chronic disease and four in 10 have two or more. The key drivers of chronic diseases are lifestyle related, from poor nutrition and tobacco use to lack of physical activity and excessive alcohol use. And part of the food

Despite some claims that the virus is a great leveler, its ravages are occurring against a backdrop of deep structural inequalities. As Van Jones writes on Thrive, “this virus is especially lethal to African Americans because it is - in effect - a pandemic jumping on top of multiple, pre-existing epidemics that were already ravaging the black community.” As a result, counties with a disproportionate number of African American residents accounted for 52%

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

2. Mental Health

of coronavirus diagnoses and 58% of deaths while also showing high levels of underlying conditions including diabetes and hypertension.

4. Climate Change And of course there is climate change, which has impacted the coronavirus outbreak and has already contributed to the spread of diseases including malaria and the Zika and West Nile viruses. “As we change ecosystems and natural habitats, longdormant diseases can emerge to which we have no immunity,” Fareed Zakaria writes in The Washington Post. So the challenge before us is not merely to flatten the curve of coronavirus infections. If we are going to emerge from this crucible stronger, healthier and more resilient, we must also flatten the curves of chronic diseases, mental health problems, inequalities and climate change. And then, after we flatten the curves, we must start reversing them. Successfully navigating this pandemic doesn't mean getting back to the status quo. It means addressing missed warning signs that defined the pre-Covid world, and creating a better one to take its place. There's no better time than now to begin this process. More than at any time in recent memory, these issues have our attention. There is widespread acknowledgment that these are changes - at both the collective and individual level - we can no longer postpone. So let's take advantage of that. Walking around Pompeii, my friends and I kept wondering: “How could they miss the birds not singing, the water not flowing, the earth trembling and the smoke billowing?” Future generations may similarly marvel at our own blindness to the warning signs before our eyes. But unlike the citizens of Pompeii, we are not yet buried under 60 feet of ash and volcanic rock. We have been shaken to our roots, but we still have a chance to imagine and build a better - much better - future.



spa business

Being your own boss takes a lot of discipline and perseverance, but it is all worthwhile when you see your vision come to life. Whether you are in the works of starting your business, it is entirely up and running, or thinking about going solo, we are sharing the best tips for being a successful beauty biz owner!

how are you refining your service menu to remain relevant? What trends are you setting to set yourself apart from other spas and estheticians? See what trends are worth it in the long run and invest in some additional certifications. This doesn’t?t mean you have to go around doing every treatment that’s out there. If you’re a lash artist, stick to lashes and be the best lash artist you can be!

Do you have it in you!?

Having a niche in the industry

If you are thinking about becoming your own boss, you should consider a few things first. When you are working in a spa, you have a team to lean on. The everyday cleaning and management of the spa isn’t up to you. The spa typically covers the booking system and drives marketing efforts to get clients through the door. When you are the boss, all of these responsibilities fall on you.

Having a niche in the industry can really work to your advantage. You can still get creative and find ways to intermix other beauty trends into your business! For example, if you’re a facialist, embrace the wellness wave and combine wellness and beauty with a Mood Beauty Facial that consists of products with mood-boosting properties!

Depending on how big you want to scale your business, a lot of time, energy, and money will be invested to ensure systems run smoothly! Now, there are many pros to being an entrepreneur, too. The power is in your hands! You decide your pay, hours and have the individual freedom to brand yourself!

Embrace Social Media

You also have the opportunity to make a lot more money! While you must get through the grit work of establishing your business, it is very fulfilling and rewarding when your beauty business succeeds. If you have an entrepreneurial spirit, you are doing yourself a disservice by holding back! Here are the best tips for becoming a successful beauty entrepreneur!

Develop a Solid Vision What inspires you to want to take the lead in your career? Define your vision and stick to it. The beauty world is a very crowded place, so you must disregard what your competitors are doing so that you don’t cloud your vision.

Boss Moves: Tips for Becoming a Successful Beauty Entrepreneur By Esthetician Edit 64

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

It can become watered-down, and you can lose passion over it quickly. Create a vision board or write out your end goal. This is the first step to manifesting the beauty biz of your dreams. Give it a full year, and if you decide to pivot in a different direction, you can do so through trial and error while still staying true to yourself!

Stay Ahead of the Trends What clients want, they’ll get it elsewhere if you don’t have it! This means always staying ahead of the trends so that customers come to you. Brow lamination, dermal injections, sound experiences,

Now, we’re going to advocate for Social Media until we are blue in the face! This is where your brand comes to life and captivates your ideal clients. Developing a social media presence is a must in such a visually-reliant industry. Prospective clients will always be looking at Instagram and Facebook for reference photos before they book their service with you. Social media can bring you so many clients if you use it to its fullest potential. This means interacting with your followers, hosting giveaways, and showcasing your business in the best way possible!

Listen to Your Clients Client feedback is crucial to your business. You want to ensure that you are creating an experience worth remembering and results worth coming back for. There are always ways to improve, and letting your clients know that you care about their feedback will help you keep them. It also helps with your decision making process when defining new goals or refining your business plan. How are your clients responding to your treatments? What’s working and what’s not working? Successful beauty entrepreneurs are always looking for ways to improve existing treatments and services.

Have a Business Plan, But be Adaptive No matter how small or big you plan your business to be, having a solid business plan will keep you on track for success. It will help you set realistic goals and strategies for achieving them and highlight budget, pricing, and profit margins that will explain how you will make money. While having a solid

business plan is essential, change is inevitable, and adaptability is crucial to being a successful entrepreneur . This is where client feedback plays in! If something isn’t working, adjust it or get rid of it! Time is money, and you want to make sure you are allocating your time and money in all of the right avenues.

Don’t Give Up! If you’re just starting out and becoming discouraged, find ways to keep yourself motivated and hungry for success! It may take a while to see all of the hard work you’ve put in, but perseverance is the secret of all triumphs. The most successful entrepreneurs didn’t just give up! The best success stories are ones with trials and tribulations. Even if you feel you’ve reached a point of great success, keep pushing! Stay educated on the latest trends and skincare innovations, and better your skills as a beauty professional. You want to stay inspired and passionate about your business! Always find new ways to fuel that fire within you!


spa business

Being your own boss takes a lot of discipline and perseverance, but it is all worthwhile when you see your vision come to life. Whether you are in the works of starting your business, it is entirely up and running, or thinking about going solo, we are sharing the best tips for being a successful beauty biz owner!

how are you refining your service menu to remain relevant? What trends are you setting to set yourself apart from other spas and estheticians? See what trends are worth it in the long run and invest in some additional certifications. This doesn’t?t mean you have to go around doing every treatment that’s out there. If you’re a lash artist, stick to lashes and be the best lash artist you can be!

Do you have it in you!?

Having a niche in the industry

If you are thinking about becoming your own boss, you should consider a few things first. When you are working in a spa, you have a team to lean on. The everyday cleaning and management of the spa isn’t up to you. The spa typically covers the booking system and drives marketing efforts to get clients through the door. When you are the boss, all of these responsibilities fall on you.

Having a niche in the industry can really work to your advantage. You can still get creative and find ways to intermix other beauty trends into your business! For example, if you’re a facialist, embrace the wellness wave and combine wellness and beauty with a Mood Beauty Facial that consists of products with mood-boosting properties!

Depending on how big you want to scale your business, a lot of time, energy, and money will be invested to ensure systems run smoothly! Now, there are many pros to being an entrepreneur, too. The power is in your hands! You decide your pay, hours and have the individual freedom to brand yourself!

Embrace Social Media

You also have the opportunity to make a lot more money! While you must get through the grit work of establishing your business, it is very fulfilling and rewarding when your beauty business succeeds. If you have an entrepreneurial spirit, you are doing yourself a disservice by holding back! Here are the best tips for becoming a successful beauty entrepreneur!

Develop a Solid Vision What inspires you to want to take the lead in your career? Define your vision and stick to it. The beauty world is a very crowded place, so you must disregard what your competitors are doing so that you don’t cloud your vision.

Boss Moves: Tips for Becoming a Successful Beauty Entrepreneur By Esthetician Edit 64

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

It can become watered-down, and you can lose passion over it quickly. Create a vision board or write out your end goal. This is the first step to manifesting the beauty biz of your dreams. Give it a full year, and if you decide to pivot in a different direction, you can do so through trial and error while still staying true to yourself!

Stay Ahead of the Trends What clients want, they’ll get it elsewhere if you don’t have it! This means always staying ahead of the trends so that customers come to you. Brow lamination, dermal injections, sound experiences,

Now, we’re going to advocate for Social Media until we are blue in the face! This is where your brand comes to life and captivates your ideal clients. Developing a social media presence is a must in such a visually-reliant industry. Prospective clients will always be looking at Instagram and Facebook for reference photos before they book their service with you. Social media can bring you so many clients if you use it to its fullest potential. This means interacting with your followers, hosting giveaways, and showcasing your business in the best way possible!

Listen to Your Clients Client feedback is crucial to your business. You want to ensure that you are creating an experience worth remembering and results worth coming back for. There are always ways to improve, and letting your clients know that you care about their feedback will help you keep them. It also helps with your decision making process when defining new goals or refining your business plan. How are your clients responding to your treatments? What’s working and what’s not working? Successful beauty entrepreneurs are always looking for ways to improve existing treatments and services.

Have a Business Plan, But be Adaptive No matter how small or big you plan your business to be, having a solid business plan will keep you on track for success. It will help you set realistic goals and strategies for achieving them and highlight budget, pricing, and profit margins that will explain how you will make money. While having a solid

business plan is essential, change is inevitable, and adaptability is crucial to being a successful entrepreneur . This is where client feedback plays in! If something isn’t working, adjust it or get rid of it! Time is money, and you want to make sure you are allocating your time and money in all of the right avenues.

Don’t Give Up! If you’re just starting out and becoming discouraged, find ways to keep yourself motivated and hungry for success! It may take a while to see all of the hard work you’ve put in, but perseverance is the secret of all triumphs. The most successful entrepreneurs didn’t just give up! The best success stories are ones with trials and tribulations. Even if you feel you’ve reached a point of great success, keep pushing! Stay educated on the latest trends and skincare innovations, and better your skills as a beauty professional. You want to stay inspired and passionate about your business! Always find new ways to fuel that fire within you!


spa business

What is Triple Bottom Line – and how can spa businesses benefit from it? By Becca Douglas

and international level – from paying taxes and generating wealth to creating employment opportunities.

Why is TBL so Important? So, why should spas care about TBL? What’s its relevance to wellness-related businesses? Well, firstly it’s important to point out that adopting a TBL way of measuring success doesn’t mean that societal and/or environmental impact should be valued higher – and at the expense of – financial profitability. In fact the opposite is true. Countless businesses have found that TBL has resulted in improved financial results. The reason is simple – when you start measuring something, you become more accountable for it. Reducing waste, saving energy, cutting utility bills, employee retention and increased customer satisfaction all have a positive effect on the “traditional” bottom line. In short, for many businesses, TBL is a way of committing to sustainable practices which have a positive effect on all Secondly, using TBL to measure your success makes it easier to profile yourself as a sustainable business. Reports which showcase your environmental and societal credentials can make a huge difference when it comes to marketing your business to consumers who are increasingly “sustainabilityaware”. Research by Nielsen, conducted prior to the pandemic, found that 48 percent of US consumers would change their consumption habits

The “Triple Bottom Line” (or TBL) approach to measuring the results of a business is gaining ground across all sectors of the global economy. In essence, TBL is based on the theory that companies should spend just as much effort in focusing on social and environmental concerns, as they do on profits. Put simply, TBL means that, instead of just one bottom line (profit), there should be an additional two: people and the planet.

The Three Ps It was British sustainability guru and serial entrepreneur, John Elkington, who first coined the term nearly 30 years ago. He wanted to come up with a different way of measuring corporate performance – one which would gauge not only how much a business makes money, but would also its success in improving people’s lives and the wellbeing of the planet. His vision was that TBL should be used to measure the financial, social, and environmental performance

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of a company over time. At the heart of it is the belief that a business which solely focuses on profits – and ignores people and the planet – cannot account for the full cost of doing business. In other words, it’s not sustainable. Let’s take a quick look at what the three Ps really mean – and what they measure: People: The impact (both positive and negative) that an organisation has on its stakeholders – from employees, families and customers to its suppliers and surrounding communities. Within the TBL framework, a “stakeholder” is any person who either influences, or is directly affected, by the company’s operations. For example, a large seafront spa operating next to a fishing village should count families living close to the spa as stakeholders, as they are likely impacted by issues such as tourism, coastal access and commercial opportunities.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Planet: The negative effects that a company has on its natural environment, from consumption of natural resources and loss of natural habitats to waste creation and pollution. But also the positive ones, such as recycling, carbon footprint reduction, educating local communities, reforestation, restoration of natural harm done and net-positive energy solutions. For example, a resort spa might use some natural resources from its surrounding environment, but offsets its consumption by operating within a renewably powered and positive carbon building, which provides local communities with energy. It might also run educational opportunities for the local community, aimed at improving environmental practices at a local level. Profit: As well as measuring the financial gains of the company, the TBL approach assesses the impact an organisation has on the economy at a local, national

to lessen their impact on the environment. But most importantly, TBL is a way of ensuring your business practices become more sustainable. It is a bold claim, but true – measuring and taking responsibility for all three “lines” can not only help solve problems within local communities, but on a global level too. Imagine the impact a multinational conglomerate, with operations around the globe, could have if it sticks to TBL in everything it does? How should TBL be measured? You might have already come across TBL in previous communications from the Sustainable Spa Association. This is because it is one of two global frameworks that we use to define a sustainable spa. The two frameworks are: • Triple Bottom Line Business (People, Planet and Profit) • United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (UN SDGs) We use TBL alongside the SDGs because evidence provided through TBL reporting shows the benefits of a business that invests in sustainability outcomes. But all of it does need to be measured. In short, TBL requires company-wide adoption to be successful. However, it is a good idea to have specific employees having more direct involvement in establishing the specific goals, measurements, and steps to achieve sustainability. As TBL is a costaccounting measure, those responsible for monitoring finances, budgets and accounts – such as financial officers and accounting directors

– should be the ones tracking measurements and reporting results. The exact measuring of success across all three areas can, admittedly be tricky, as some of the actions (such as educating local people about their impact on the environment) don’t exactly fall under traditional accounting practices. However, departments that most affect sustainability – and have the biggest impact on the environment or people – need to assess their responsibilities and identify the actions which impact TBL. At spas, these activities include: •Facility operations (water, energy, waste) •Supplier partnerships (packaging, transport, ingredients used in treatments and amenities) • Community outreach programmes • Sourcing of food and beverage • Use of plastic across facility operations Each company can come up with a TBL system which works for them – as the practices to achieve the goals will differ from one to another. The size of a company or enterprise will also affect the set goals and measurements. At SSA, we use TBL and UN SDGs because a business embedded in a sustainable economy offers considerable opportunities for the growth of its reputation, its people and community whilst lowering its environmental impact.


spa business

What is Triple Bottom Line – and how can spa businesses benefit from it? By Becca Douglas

and international level – from paying taxes and generating wealth to creating employment opportunities.

Why is TBL so Important? So, why should spas care about TBL? What’s its relevance to wellness-related businesses? Well, firstly it’s important to point out that adopting a TBL way of measuring success doesn’t mean that societal and/or environmental impact should be valued higher – and at the expense of – financial profitability. In fact the opposite is true. Countless businesses have found that TBL has resulted in improved financial results. The reason is simple – when you start measuring something, you become more accountable for it. Reducing waste, saving energy, cutting utility bills, employee retention and increased customer satisfaction all have a positive effect on the “traditional” bottom line. In short, for many businesses, TBL is a way of committing to sustainable practices which have a positive effect on all Secondly, using TBL to measure your success makes it easier to profile yourself as a sustainable business. Reports which showcase your environmental and societal credentials can make a huge difference when it comes to marketing your business to consumers who are increasingly “sustainabilityaware”. Research by Nielsen, conducted prior to the pandemic, found that 48 percent of US consumers would change their consumption habits

The “Triple Bottom Line” (or TBL) approach to measuring the results of a business is gaining ground across all sectors of the global economy. In essence, TBL is based on the theory that companies should spend just as much effort in focusing on social and environmental concerns, as they do on profits. Put simply, TBL means that, instead of just one bottom line (profit), there should be an additional two: people and the planet.

The Three Ps It was British sustainability guru and serial entrepreneur, John Elkington, who first coined the term nearly 30 years ago. He wanted to come up with a different way of measuring corporate performance – one which would gauge not only how much a business makes money, but would also its success in improving people’s lives and the wellbeing of the planet. His vision was that TBL should be used to measure the financial, social, and environmental performance

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of a company over time. At the heart of it is the belief that a business which solely focuses on profits – and ignores people and the planet – cannot account for the full cost of doing business. In other words, it’s not sustainable. Let’s take a quick look at what the three Ps really mean – and what they measure: People: The impact (both positive and negative) that an organisation has on its stakeholders – from employees, families and customers to its suppliers and surrounding communities. Within the TBL framework, a “stakeholder” is any person who either influences, or is directly affected, by the company’s operations. For example, a large seafront spa operating next to a fishing village should count families living close to the spa as stakeholders, as they are likely impacted by issues such as tourism, coastal access and commercial opportunities.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Planet: The negative effects that a company has on its natural environment, from consumption of natural resources and loss of natural habitats to waste creation and pollution. But also the positive ones, such as recycling, carbon footprint reduction, educating local communities, reforestation, restoration of natural harm done and net-positive energy solutions. For example, a resort spa might use some natural resources from its surrounding environment, but offsets its consumption by operating within a renewably powered and positive carbon building, which provides local communities with energy. It might also run educational opportunities for the local community, aimed at improving environmental practices at a local level. Profit: As well as measuring the financial gains of the company, the TBL approach assesses the impact an organisation has on the economy at a local, national

to lessen their impact on the environment. But most importantly, TBL is a way of ensuring your business practices become more sustainable. It is a bold claim, but true – measuring and taking responsibility for all three “lines” can not only help solve problems within local communities, but on a global level too. Imagine the impact a multinational conglomerate, with operations around the globe, could have if it sticks to TBL in everything it does? How should TBL be measured? You might have already come across TBL in previous communications from the Sustainable Spa Association. This is because it is one of two global frameworks that we use to define a sustainable spa. The two frameworks are: • Triple Bottom Line Business (People, Planet and Profit) • United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (UN SDGs) We use TBL alongside the SDGs because evidence provided through TBL reporting shows the benefits of a business that invests in sustainability outcomes. But all of it does need to be measured. In short, TBL requires company-wide adoption to be successful. However, it is a good idea to have specific employees having more direct involvement in establishing the specific goals, measurements, and steps to achieve sustainability. As TBL is a costaccounting measure, those responsible for monitoring finances, budgets and accounts – such as financial officers and accounting directors

– should be the ones tracking measurements and reporting results. The exact measuring of success across all three areas can, admittedly be tricky, as some of the actions (such as educating local people about their impact on the environment) don’t exactly fall under traditional accounting practices. However, departments that most affect sustainability – and have the biggest impact on the environment or people – need to assess their responsibilities and identify the actions which impact TBL. At spas, these activities include: •Facility operations (water, energy, waste) •Supplier partnerships (packaging, transport, ingredients used in treatments and amenities) • Community outreach programmes • Sourcing of food and beverage • Use of plastic across facility operations Each company can come up with a TBL system which works for them – as the practices to achieve the goals will differ from one to another. The size of a company or enterprise will also affect the set goals and measurements. At SSA, we use TBL and UN SDGs because a business embedded in a sustainable economy offers considerable opportunities for the growth of its reputation, its people and community whilst lowering its environmental impact.


spa lifestyle

5 Natural Anti-Aging Secrets From Around The World From brushing your hair 100 times, to drinking a gallon of water a day to plump up your skin -- we've all heard anti-aging advice from our mothers and grandmothers. And the same thing holds true for women across the globe, in many different cultures.

as EGCG, which helps battle wrinkles and helps increase cell turnover. The Chinese mix green tea powder into brewed white tea to create a face mask. Apply this to your face to help fight wrinkles and load your skin with plumping antioxidants.

Women all over the world are proving you can age well and gracefully, and you don't have to go under the knife or spend your entire paycheck on a fancy new anti-aging cream.

India

"Other cultures take advantage of natural ingredients," dermatologist Joshua Zeichner told The Huffington Post. Zeichner says in the U.S. we're beginning to embrace many beauty rituals from around the world by incorporating key ingredients into our existing skincare routines. From the glowing skin of women in Latin America to the clear complexions of our friends in Asia, we've rounded up the best anti-aging treatments from cultures around the world. What's your anti-aging beauty trick?

China Many teas are high in anti-aging antioxidants. White tea and green tea are rich in an antioxidant known

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Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’83

Start the day off like women in India, with a warm cup of ginger tea. Mix some shredded ginger and honey into some hot water. A cup of this tea is loaded with anti-aging benefits. Honey has natural anti-bacterial properties and helps reduce inflammation. Ginger is rich in an antioxidant called gingerol, which helps protect against collagen breakdown.

Mexico It's well known that our hands are one of the first things that give away our age. The skin on our hands loses its elasticity and fullness. In Mexico, women mix together sugar and lemon juice to create a scrub for the hands. The sugar crystals act as an exfoliant to helping slough away dull dead skin. Lemon juice contains alpha hydroxy acid, found in many antiaging treatments, which also helps peel away the layer of dead skin cells. "When you exfoliate, your moisturizers penetrate better. In the more mature population, we don't shed our skin as effectively

and so exfoliating can be helpful," dermatologist Susan Weinkle told The Huffington Post.

Polynesia You may have heard of noni juice as a hot, new beauty product that models are raving about. But it's actually been around for thousands of years, being indigenous to the southeastern part of the globe. Polynesians use the fruit for its moisturizing, anti-aging properties. Studies have shown that it's effective in softening the appearance of crow's feet, fine lines, and wrinkles.

France Studies have shown grape seed extract supplements can actually boost the levels of antioxidants in your blood. It has also been known to protect the collagen and elastin in your skin-- the proteins that give your skin elasticity and firmness. Grape seed extract supplements are popular in France. You'd have to eat over a pound of grapes to get the same benefit as you do from 50 mg of the supplement!




Articles inside

My 10 Keys to Successful Aging

4min
pages 6, 9, 17

Boss Moves:

4min
pages 66-67, 72

Our attitude to massage is wrong - we need to turn it on its head!

3min
pages 58, 61, 63

Our attitude to massage is wrong - we need to turn it on its head!

3min
pages 58, 61, 63

The “Fitness Market” Is Far Bigger Than Gyms and Boutique Studios

3min
pages 43, 49-50

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Magazine #83

1min
pages 24-25

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Magazine #83

1min
pages 28-29

Boost Your Immune System With These Foods

2min
pages 32-33

The Gut-Brain Connection: How It Works + How to Support It

6min
pages 34-35

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Magazine #83

1min
pages 54-55

The Best 8 Ways To Boost Your Immune System

2min
pages 30-31

Is Metabolism the Key to Disease and Aging? By Deepak Chopra MD

6min
pages 18-19

My 10 Keys to Successful Aging

4min
pages 6-7

My 10 Keys to Successful Aging

4min
pages 6-7

Lion's Mane Mushroom:

6min
pages 38-39

Ancient Beauty Secrets

5min
pages 16-17

Putting Brand Truth into Practice

3min
pages 56-57

5 Natural Anti-Aging Secrets From Around The World

2min
pages 70-71

Injectables and the Future

4min
pages 10-11

Dispelling Ageist Myths In The Workplace By Carl Honoré

4min
pages 52-53

What Is a Gua Sha Facial and Can It Transform Your Skin?

3min
pages 40-41

Stem Cell Collagen Activators

7min
pages 26-27

Stem Cell Collagen Activators

7min
pages 21, 26-27

Are You Building Strong ‘Wellness Partnerships’?

4min
pages 62-63

The Value Of Digital Transformation And Collaboration In Fashion, Luxury And Beauty

3min
pages 22-23

The Value Of Digital Transformation And Collaboration In Fashion, Luxury And Beauty

3min
pages 22-23

Sustainable, Beauty and the Spa Industry.

6min
pages 46-48

What Is ‘Emotional’ Beauty?

1min
pages 14-15

The Anti-Aging Secrets Dermatologists Tell Their Friends

4min
pages 8-9

Anti-Aging And Aesthetic Medicine:

3min
pages 4-5

Ancient Beauty Secrets

7min
pages 68-72

What is Triple Bottom Line

4min
pages 66-67

Tips for Becoming a Successful Beauty Entrepreneur

4min
pages 64-65

Four curves we need to start flattening now

4min
pages 62-63

Our attitude to massage is wrong - we need to turn it on its head

3min
pages 56-57

Why The Spa Industry Needs To Invest In Education

3min
pages 58-59

Are You Building Strong ‘Wellness Partnerships’?

3min
pages 60-61

The “Fitness Market” Is Far Bigger Than Gyms and Boutique Studio

3min
pages 48-49

Sustainable, Beauty and the Spa Industry. Q&A with Davines Group

8min
pages 44-47

Dispelling Ageist Myths In The Workplace

8min
pages 50-55

Anti-Oxy-What?

2min
pages 42-43

Can Health Tech ‘Extend’ Life?

3min
pages 40-41

Boost Your Immune System With These Foods

2min
pages 30-31

The Gut-Brain Connection: How It Works + How to Support It

2min
pages 32-33

The Gua Sha Facial

6min
pages 38-39

Topical Vitamin D: A Superhero Solution

6min
pages 34-35

Lion’s Mane Mushroom: The Potential Powerhouse

4min
pages 36-37

Digital Transformation In Fashion, Luxury And Beauty

8min
pages 20-23

Stem Cell Collagen Activators

7min
pages 24-27

National Survey Reveals How Pandemic Has Impacted Beauty

6min
pages 18-19

What Is ‘Emotional’ Beauty

7min
pages 12-13

18 Ingredients a Clean Cosmetic Chemist Would Avoid

4min
pages 10-11

Injectables and the Future

4min
pages 8-9

Anti-Aging And Aesthetic Medicine: Multibillion Dollar Industry

3min
pages 2-3

My 10 Keys to Successful Aging

3min
pages 4-5

5 Natural Anti-Aging Secrets From Around The World

1min
pages 14-15

The Anti-Aging Secrets Dermatologists Tell Their Friends

4min
pages 6-7

Is Metabolism the Key to Disease and Aging?

5min
pages 16-17
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