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Kolpa River though, and the main built-up area here (if you can call it that) is the settlement of Fara and several other small hamlets further down the road leading to the border crossing with Croatia. The incredibly rugged karst landscape is perfect for hikers and cyclists looking for a bit of a challenge and a lot of beautiful scenery. There are a few tourist farms to stop at for a bite, and lots of natural attractions, such as waterfalls and caves. If you stay here on a cold night, don’t forget to fortify your own spirit with the locally produced spirit called Kostelska Rakija, while in the summertime the biggest day on the calendar is 15 August, when the traditional Tamburanje va Kostele ethnological festival is held.
The Legend of Peter Klepec The story of Peter Klepec is one of the most widely known folktales in Slovenia. Likely originating sometime in the 16th or 17th century, it was passed down orally from generation to generation until finally taking written form many years later. Peter Klepec was a kind, hard-working sepherd boy from a very poor family in the village of Osilnica, who struggled to make ends meet on a farm where hardly any crops would grow. Peter was not the strongest boy around, and as adolescent males tend to do (apparently even 500 years ago) Peter was the victim of some rather unpleasant bullying at the hands of the other young shepherds - being forced to do their work, serving as the butt of their jokes and even taking a beating from time to time. One hot summer day while Peter was off trying to find water for his tormentors, his flock disappeared. While he was searching for the wayward sheep he came across a beautiful young girl sleeping in a meadow. Being the kindly boy he was, Peter took the time from his desperate search to arrange some branches to provide shade for this lovely maiden during her afternoon siesta. This humble act turned out to be a decisive one, because when the girl awoke Peter found out that she was not a girl after all, but one of the mysterious mountain fairies who populate the forests here. To show her gratitude, she told Peter that she would grant him one wish, to which the boy (making the classic mistake of not wishing for more wishes!) asked simply to be strong. Despite being sceptical at first, Peter quickly discovered that he could uproot giant trees and hoist enormous boulders over his head. And the rest, as they say is history. After locating his lost flock, Peter set about wrapping up some other loose ends. First he subtly made it known to the other shepherds that they’d be doing their own work from then on. Next he removed all the rocks from his mother’s garden, so plentiful crops could grow. And finally, in some versions of the story at least, he defeated all of the invading Turkish armies and saved the entire region from Ottoman rule, which surely played no small part in helping to cement his legacy as a folk hero in both Slovenia and neighbouring Croatia. In the past century or so the story has been depicted in various different artistic mediums, including countless books. The most famous version is likely France Bevk’s work from 1958, which includes beautiful illustrations by the noted Slovene painter Tone Kralj.
EDEN Slovenia
Kolpa River What to See in Kostel
Osilnica
Kostel Castle Kostel’s mighty castle is inarguably one
With a population of just over two million, Slovenia has managed to make local administration a true art form, so far dividing itself into an astounding 211 separate municipalities as of 2011. But even in a country so keen on creating ever smaller administrative units, only one can lay claim to the title of being the smallest - and with a total population of only 332 inhabitants, Osilnica is that one (by quite a large margin even). However, as the saying goes, good things do indeed come in small packages. Despite its size, Osilnica is notable for two primary reasons: It is the land of Peter Klepec, one of Slovenia’s most beloved folk heroes, and it is the place where the Čabranka and Kupa rivers converge to form the Kolpa. Just a couple hundred metres from the confluence is the Kovač Hotel and Sport Centre, the modern family-run establishment that is the primary tourist destination in the area. While the unspoilt nature of the surrounding area and timeless images of rural life are the main object of photographers lenses, there are also no less than seven aged churches and countless chapels in the municipality,
of the most magnificent and recognisable in all of Slovenia, which is no small feat in a country that is not exactly lacking in fortified residences. Not only is Kostel the second largest castle complex in Slovenia (after Celje’s Stari Grad), but it’s image also adorns the label of a popular Slovene brand of bottled water that is produced nearby. Built in the 13th century, the castle long-served as an important defensive outpost against frequent Turkish incursions, and dutifully withstood all but one of their attempts to capture it over a period of centuries. Nowadays the castle itself and its immediate grounds are sadly closed to the public, with the blame for this falling squarely on the shoulders of the French, who destroyed it in 1809 as punishment for a local rebellion. After a wait of nearly two centuries renovations works finally began in 1999, but this major project is still ongoing and the castle’s interior is currently closed for sightseeing. However, it’s well worth the short drive from the main road to take a closer look and experience the mightiness of the castle complex for yourself. There’s a large parking area on the left just before you reach the village Kostel, from where it’s a short walk to the best vantage point on the path leading up to the castle gates. A large info board has a detailed history of the castle, church and village in English.
Svet Kolpe www.svet-kolpe.si. It is believed by some
that there is a strong bio-energy field with a spine of seven chakras running across Europe, from roots in the Greek island of Crete to the crown in Iceland. The large central Europe chakra passes directly through the Kolpa region in Slovenia and represents the solar plexus, which acts as a sort of inner sun providing life forces to the rest of Europe. In the area of the Kolpa, this perhaps difficult to imagine and impossible to see concept has been put into concrete form through the Svet Kolpe project, which has been organised by the municipality of Kostel and others in the area. To make the energy more palpable, a series of 40 white stone monoliths with special symbols carved into them have been arranged at various points throughout the Kolpa and Čabranka river valleys. This practice is referred to as lithopuncture, as in a manner similar to acupuncture it helps to open the energy present in the land. Even those who are sceptical of such ‘new age’ beliefs may want to take the time to stop and see if they feel any different while near the stones - at worst they will get to enjoy a beautiful view. English language information boards and maps are posted at many of the sites, and brochures can be found at many tourist offices.
Accommodation along the Kolpa River Hotels
Hotel Bela Krajina Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 32,
Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 305 81 23/+386 (0)40 327 49, fax +386 (0)7 363 52 81, gostinstvo-turizem@ gtm-metlika.si, www.hotel-belakrajina.si. Q 26 rooms. Hotel Kovač Sela 5, Osilnica, tel. +386 (0)1 8941 508/+386 (0)41 652 048, info@kovac-kolpa.com, www.kovac-kolpa.com. Hotel Lahinja Črnomelj Kolodvorska 60, tel. +386 (0)7 307 03 30/+386 (0)51 809 426, hotel.lahinja@siol. net, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-lahinja-crnomelj. Hotel Pri Belokranjcu Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 77, Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 30 28 444/+386 (0)41 921 694, hotel@pribelokranjcu.si, www.pribelokranjcu-vp.si. Q 11 rooms. Hotel Smuk Semič Štefanov Trg 1, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 30 677 14, hotel.smuk.semic@gmail. com, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-smuk-semic. Q 8 rooms.
Apartments
Apartmaji Bilpa Spodnja Bilpa 6, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77, apartmaji.bilpa@gmail.com, www.apartmaji-bilpa.si. Q 5 apartments. Apartmaji Malerič Podlog 3c, Dragatuš, tel. +386 (0)7 30 57 120/+386 (0)40 300 676, maleric@ turizemmaleric.si, w w w.turizemmaleric.si. Q 6 apartments. Apartmaji Šuster Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 359 073/+386 (0)7 305 51 53, www.apartmajisuster.si. Q 6 apartments.
Camping
Kostel’s magnificent castle is the second largest castle complex in all of Slovenia, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
including the 17th century Church St Giles in Ribjek, which is the oldest preserved church in the entire region of the Kočevje forest. Squeezed into an area of some 36km2 between the rocky Borovška Gora mountain range on one side and the Kolpa river (as well as the Schengen border with Croatia) on the other, the municipality includes various tiny settlements along the river leading to Osilnica town from the south, as well as several more hamlets and farming estates in the hills to the north, making it quite literally one of the most isolated corners of Slovenia. Until recently the easiest way to get here was to first past through Kostel and then follow the river for some 30km before the somewhat frightening monument of Peter Klepec on the left let’s you know that you’ve finally arrived. However, in May 2012 a new road opened that goes directly over the mountains to Kočevje Reka, Ribnica and on to Ljubljana, saving drivers at least 30 minutes on the trip. With some two dozen switchbacks and a change of over 700m in elevation in just a few kilometres, the road provides spectacular sweeping views of the valley below and several prime locations for impromptu picnics.
Kamp Muhvič Dol 9, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 75, peter.muhvic@gmail.com. Kamp Podzemelj Podzemelj, tel. +386 (0)7 30 69 572, gostinstvo-turizem@gtm-metlika.si, www.kamppodzemelj.si. RC Kamp Primostek Primostek 50, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 305 85 28/+386 (0) 31 652 851, info@ primostek.si, www.kampprimostek.si. Kamp Žaga Gorenja Žaga 1a, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)1 89 42 291. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Tourist Farms & Guesthouses
Domačija Lobič Grgelj 5, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 770 959/+306 (0)41 628 043, darinka.mravljak@siol. net. Domačija Raztresen Rim 16, Adlešiči, tel. +386 (0)7 30 70 516/+386 (0)41 736 587, rim@rim.si, www.rim.si. Gostilna Pezdirc Metliška 11, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 356 81 21, pmmdoo@siol.net, www.gostilnapezdirc. si. Gostišče Kapušin Krasinec 55, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 369 91 50, gostilna.kapusin@siol.net, www. gostilna-kapusin.si. Gostišče Tri Zvezde Pri Unionu 32, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 895 30 36, fax +386 (0)1 893 16 68, info@ trizvezde.si, www.trizvezde.si. Gostišče Veronika Ljubljanska 35, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 89 53 017. Gostišče Veselič Podzemelj 17, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 363 72 33/+386 (0)31 391 517, gostisce. veselic@siol.net. Gostišče Župančič Hram Dragatuš 22, Dragatuš, tel. +386 (0)7 305 73 47. Kmetija Padovac Selo 3, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 338 645, kmetija-padovac@gmail.com, www.kmetijapadovac.si. Kmetija Pri Papeževih Banja Loka 19, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)41 792 816. Lukčeva Domačija Vrh 1, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 285 723, bine.likar@amis.net, www.lukceva-domacija. si. Kmetija z Nastavitvijo ob Izviru Krupa Krupa 9, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 306 80 12, daniela.cerjanec@volja.net, www.turisticna-kmetija-cerjanec. si. Penzion Tušek Rudnik 18, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 895 22 30/+386 (0)40 396 400. Turistična kmetija Majerle Dol 7, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77, info@turizem-majerle.com, www.turizem-majerle.net. Turistična Kmetija Žagar Damelj 11, Vinica, tel. +386 (0)7 306 44 41, info@tk-zagar.si, www.tkzagar.si. 2012/13
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