SA Connoisseur - Issue 275, May/June 2019

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Simonsig Wine Estate, Kromme Rhee Road, Koelenhof, 7605 | Phone: 021 888 4900

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Named after the majestic views of the Simonsberg Mountain, Simonsig Estate is situated in the famous Stellenbosch Winelands region, 45 km east of Cape Town. French Huguenot, Jacques Malan, first set foot in the Cape in 1688. The late Frans Malan, Simonsig’s founding father, was a pioneer of the South African wine industry. A true visionary, Frans introduced new and innovative wine styles to the country, thereby establishing a unique and specific Cape wine culture. Frans was one of the three founders of South Africa’s wine route, in Stellenbosch and Simonsig produced South Africa’s first MCC (Méthode Cap Classique) in 1971. Two generations of the Malan family have applied their extensive wine knowledge and understanding of the unique soils and climate conditions of the Stellenbosch region, capturing the essence of this specific terroir in a range of distinguished red and white wines. Today, Simonsig’s awarded wines are known and appreciated in South Africa and all over the world.

www.simonsig.co.za

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SOUTH AFRICAN

CONNOISSEUR www.wineofthemonth.co.za

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke DESIGNER Chloé Damstra WINE BUYER/PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTINGS/ ASSISTANT TO BUYER/ ADMINISTRATOR Alicia Bento REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles—David Biggs & Irina von Holdt OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

HAVE A QUESTION? HERE’S HOW TO CONTACT US:

• Advertising call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. • Wine delivery or wine orders call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

• Write to the Editor: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.

FIND US:

Facebook: @wineofthemonthsa Twitter: @WotMSA Instagram: @wineofthemonth TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR COMPETITIONS: The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Connoisseur will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Connoisseur, their families, their agencies, Connoisseur contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. SMS entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.

Member

Iwca International Wine

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South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

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10 CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON? EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE: WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 FLAGSTONE: WHEN PERSEVERANCE REVEALS CREATIVE BRILLIANCE 10 DISCOVERING DORNIER WINE ESTATE 12 ANTHONIJ RUPERT: A WARM WINTER ESCAPE 14 SWAADY MARTIN’S STYLISH JOZI TEA ROOM

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WINE APPS: YOUR GO-TO GUIDE THREE WINTER RECIPES THIS MONTH’S WINNING WINES YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE: A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY DAVID BIGGS ON FAMILY MATTERS

ON THE COVER Discover more about Flagstone wines on p.08

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When Perseverance Pays Off

Bodega Restaurant at Dornier serves up some delicious seasonal dishes on p.10

Enjoy these hearty winter recipes on p.18

You play a musical instrument? Ever thought of giving up playing it because it is too easy? No one ever gave up playing a musical instrument because it was too easy. There are always new challenges. To play better, play more difficult pieces, play with more feeling, and so on. Same with wine making. Even the most brilliant winemakers say that no matter how long you’ve been making wine, it never gets easier. Each and every harvest tests you in new ways. The folks over at Flagstone sing the same tune—demonstrating that, ‘creating a wine starts with having the courage to try new ideas and persevering beyond the mistakes along the way.’ You can see how Flagstone channels their creativity to make some of the most memorable wines around on p.08. No stranger to perseverance is Swaady Martin. She gave up a very successful corporate career to pursue a life-long dream of creating a unique African tea brand. Courage mixed with a whole lot of persistence. It’s what lies at the heart of her brand. Swaady’s Jozi Tea Room is on p.14. Then David Biggs shares a special kind of insistence his family carried out when his least favourite uncle came to visit (p.32). Dave shows how the toughest nuts can be cracked with patience and a little persistence. Along with the above tales of doggedness, we’ve also included in this issue some other fine features to get stuck into. From hearty warm winter recipes (p.18) and some wine apps (p.16) to a visit to the beautiful Dornier Estate in Stellenbosch (p.10) and an action-packed day planned at Anthonij Rupert Wyne and L’Ormarins Estates in Franschhoek (p.12). There’s more, of course. Not forgetting valuable information on all the latest and greatest in wine. Aanhou wen! Remember to keep playing and persevering.

CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB A visit to YSWARA Tea Room on p.14

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O L D M U T UA L T R O P H Y W I N E S H O W, 12 JUNE & 20 JUNE Taste South Africa’s top wines judged at this year’s Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show—now in its 18th year. Around 100 wines which are either silver, gold or trophy medal winners will be available to buy at show prices along with light meals and refreshments. Jozi, they’ll see you at the Sandton Convention Centre on the 12th of June, and then at the Cape Town International Convention Centre on the 20th of June. www.trophywineshow.co.za

WHAT’S ON Festivals and Events Around SA

Knysna O yster Festival , 2 9 June

Apart from slugging back some of the world’s best oysters, The Knysna Oyster Festival also boasts a great line-up of activities taking place in the beautifully quaint town along The Garden Route. From live music and comedy performances to bike races and marathons makes this annual weekend a fun break for sporty types, families and those who simply enjoy fun festivities. www.oysterfestival.co.za

S T E L L E N B O S C H I N T E R N AT I O N A L CHAMBER MUSIC F E S T I V A L , 5 - 1 4 J U LY Stellenbosch University’s annual music festival is back with another round of classical orchestral performances and public classes led by both local and global musicians. Billed as the biggest event of its kind in SA, this calendar highlight is both a chance for classical music lovers to enjoy daily concerts by renowned musicians and an opportunity for young talent to gain experience and guidance. Go to www.sicmf.co.za.

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM, (DATE TBC) Museum Night offers Capetonians (and visitors) the opportunity to visit several museums at the V&A Waterfront after hours. Oh, and don’t forget to make a stop at the Mother City’s much loved and internationally acclaimed Zeitz MOCAA. Other museums participating include: Iziko Maritime Centre, Robben Island Jetty Museum, Cape Medical Museum, Springbok Rugby Experience Museum and Everard Read CIRCA to name just a few. For more info mail events@waterfront.co.za.

GRAHAMSTOWN NATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL, 27 JUNE-7 JULY Africa’s largest and most colourful cultural event offers a choice of the very best of both indigenous and imported talent. Every year for 11 days the population of Grahamstown (now Makhanda) almost doubles as over 50 000 people flock to the Eastern Cape town for a feast of arts, crafts and entertainment. The festival offers more than 500 shows from opera, cabaret, drama and jazz to stand-up comics, folk music and more. www.nationalartsfestival.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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LIVE JAZZ AND FONDUE AT DELHEIM

Fondues? Remember how we all went crazy for them a few years ago? Now how about rekindling your excitement for the melted cheese dish by getting down to Delheim for their JAZZ & FONDUE gig that runs from the 23rd of June to the 25th of August? And enjoy some jazz at the same time? It all takes place in Delheim’s downstairs wine cellar—an intimate cosy venue that magically transforms into a mellow jazz club. You get a sizzling pot of melted cheese, along with fresh bread and vegetables for your dipping pleasure. Optional extras include starters, meats, desserts and coffees, along with wines on sale by the glass or bottle. Book your tickets online at Quicket for R350pp.

WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine

Jozi Spreads the Chardonnay & Pinot Noir Love

Explore the very best in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at South Africa’s only wine event dedicated to these two Champagne varietals. THE CHARDONNAY AND PINOT NOIR FESTIVAL (which takes place at The Crystal Room at the Killarney Country Club on the 30th of May) includes more than 80 high-end, award-winning Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays—many of which are either too expensive or made in too small a batch to be shown at other festivals. Only a limited number of tickets are available (at R250pp) which includes a tasting glass as well as light snacks. For more information go to www.winemenu.co.za 6

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What’s New | WINE & DINE

A NEW AUTUMN INSPIRED CHARDONNAY As the cooler weather wafts in, the family owned Stellenbosch estate Tokara presents its newly released autumn companion: TOKARA’S CHARDONNAY 2017 has a fresh citrus character and creamy texture. There are aromas of ripe quince and orange blossom with underlying notes of fresh ginger and a hint of toasted almonds. The palate comes alive with fresh clementine, grapefruit and subtle notes of ginger spice. The mouthfeel is creamy and textured from ageing on the lees in predominantly older oak barrels, yet the wine finishes bone dry ending with lingering, lightly toasted almonds. It’s a slam dunk with your favourite fish or chicken dish, and always a winner as an aperitif. Pour us a spot then?

Wixworth Gin Raises Funds for Rhinos

Tying into the debut launch of the new Wixworth bottle, artist Daniel Hugo was commissioned to curate a series of six rhino paintings and a giant rhino sculpture—all the proceeds being funded directly to the STOP Rhino Poaching Foundation. For each Wixworth bottle sold, a percentage goes towards the Rhino fundraising initiative. Keep it up, Wixworth! For more information go to www.wixworth.com.

Sandalene Dale Roberts’ latest creation is all kinds of beautiful

The Inside Job

Amongst many other things, Sandalene Dale Roberts is a designer of interiors, fashion and furniture. The woman behind the big ideas, in collaboration with her chef husband Luke, make up the masterminds behind the likes of The Test Kitchen, The Pot Luck Club, and Salsify at The Roundhouse. Behind this creative duo is a team of highly skilled, passionate and charismatic staffers. Seen as much more than employees, the staff members are considered friends and family. With this family in mind, Sandalene had an idea for a book. Not your average cookbook, but rather a book about people, design, the restaurant industry and the love that goes into making food. That’s how The Inside Job came to be. It’s a personal window into the couple’s professional and social lives— from Luke’s diary (that runs as a common thread throughout) to small glimpses at the eccentricities of the team and—of course—recipes. The Inside Job is available at all of their restaurants for R977.50. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Palatable STORIES Only SHEER PERSEVERANCE can reveal creative BRILLIANCE

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lagstone’s approach to wine making parallels the process of creativity itself; demonstrating that creating a wine starts with having the courage to try new ideas and persevering beyond the mistakes made along the way. Each bottle has its own unique story, with evocative tales ranging from myths of flying dragons to an allegory of a wild card – the dark horse. Wine is the marriage of nature and human imagination. Mother Nature provides the grapes but it is flashes of inspiration and creativity that transform them into fabulous, captivating wines. In the layers of flavour and the delicious captivating aromas of their wines, Flagstone endeavour to capture the essence of our land. They do this by staying true to their craft.

Writer’s Block Pinotage We are incredibly proud that this high-intensity Pinotage is crafted from a single vineyard block, high up on the slopes of the Waaihoek Mountains. Everything about this site is special: the combination of soil, slope, climate, aspect and grape variety works brilliantly. Lamentably, regulations prohibited us naming it after the block. But we persevered and the word ‘block’ was eventually approved for use. Clearly we love a good story and the rest of the name fell creatively into place. When stuck with your writing, a few glasses of this velvety Pinotage will get the words flowing again with consummate ease.

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‘Wine is the marriage of nature and human imagination’ Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon The name of this Cabernet pays homage to Elsie Fraser-Munn, a talented music teacher and the grandmother of our founding winemaker. The notes from Elsie’s piano resonated deep into Africa and enriched many. In appreciation, she was gifted a drum which she passed on to her grandson. You could say the beat never stopped. Both of these extraordinary individuals consistently put in the hours of patience and practice required to produce true works of art.

Time Manner Place Pinotage Crafted more by obsessive selections of selections, than with fancy equipment, this wine is really the distilled vision of what one tiny corner of the universe tastes of. Firstly we had a philosophical selection to make—what variety of grape to craft this rare and individual wine from. It was an easy enough choice for us. We believe we’ve found an exceptional single vineyard block high in the Waaihoek Mountains (700m above sea level), above the sweeping Breedekloof valley.

Dark Horse Shiraz Shiraz grapes grow with an inherent wildness that cannot be tamed. Cautious farmers will mutter that nothing good can come from such an unruly thing. But find the soil and climate to balance its dark and tempestuous nature, and you have the chance of making something truly beautiful.

‘Creating a wine starts with having the courage to try new ideas and persevering beyond the mistakes made along the way’

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DID YOU KNOW: You can find Flagstone Winery and Tasting Room at W.R. Quinan Boulevard Paardevlei, Somerset West

Wine Tasting and Sales Open Monday - Friday 10h00 to 16h00 Saturdays 10h00 to 15h00 Closed Sundays. Open most Public Holidays. For wine tasting groups of eight or more by appointment only.

Tel: +27 21 852 5052 flagstonewines.com @flagstonewines

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Dornier wine estate is surrounded by some of the best sweeping views

DORNIER WINE ESTATE Along with fine wine, Dornier has a whole lot more to offer

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ornier Wine Estate is a family owned winery situated on the majestic slopes of Stellenbosch Mountain. Dornier’s portfolio consists of 18 different wines, with a focus on producing premium quality wines in low volumes.

‘Bodega Restaurant serves beautifully crafted and seasonal dishes’ Along with award-winning wine, the estate boasts a modern loft style wine cellar as well as their original Sir Herbert Baker designed homestead which offers beautiful accommodation to guests. During your visit guests can also enjoy a tutored wine tasting in the iconic cellar building, a cellar tour or a vineyard tour around the estate. Adjacent to the cellar, you’ll find Dornier Bodega Restaurant beckoning food and wine aficionados alike. The restaurant is situated in one of the oldest buildings in Stellenbosch and offers sweeping views of Stellenbosch Mountain. Bodega Restaurant serves beautifully crafted dishes, each of which have been carefully paired alongside Dornier’s delicious wines. DID YOU KNOW: Dornier Froschkönig Natural Sweet Chenin Blanc 2016 won first place in Natural Sweet Wine Category in last years Wine Magazine Competition

The Tasting Room Dornier is open from Mondays to Sundays 9am-5pm. Lunch is served at Bodega Restaurant from 11:30am to 4:30pm, Wednesdays to Sundays.

021 880 0557 winelounge@dornier.co.za Dornier Wines, Upper Blaauwklippen Road, Stellenbosch. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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A Memorable

WINTER ESCAPE It’s time for an all-in-one visit to Anthonij Rupert Estate in Franschhoek

Estate Packages and vouchers can be purchased online. To buy and to find out more visit www.rupertwines.com

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Museum with a display of 80 vintage cars • A scenic tram ride taking in the picturesque views of the estate and surrounding Franschhoek Wine Valley

A must-try premium rosé from Anthonij Rupert: The Jean Roi Rosé is

created from a beautiful blend of grapes from the coastal region, with Cinsaut from Anthonij Rupert’s Riebeeksrivier farm making up the bulk of the blend. Ideal weather conditions resulted in healthy fruit and small berries with great full flavours and fine delicate acids.

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ith winter well on its way, why not make a date to venture out to the beautiful Anthonij Rupert Estate in Franschhoek for a combination of award-winning wines, delicious food and an unforgettable fleet of modern and vintage cars at the on-site Motor Museum. Sound like your ideal day? Read on… Now offering guests a memorable visitors experience, with an ‘all-in-one’ Anthonij Rupert Wyne (ARW) Estate Package Voucher—guaranteed to keep you well entertained for the entire day. With the estate’s tram service operating between points, visitors can spend as much time as they like at each facility before moving on to the next point. Guests are however advised to allow a minimum of 4 hours for the total package in order to make the most of this experience.

TASTING NOTES: Enjoy a beautiful pale blush-pink hue and a gentle fruity nose with stone fruits such as nectarine and white peach, overlaid with a delicate white blossom note. The same flavours can be found on the palate: with appealingly vibrant and fresh nectarine, peach and apricot. Ending off with a delightful final note of soft red berry flavours. Anthonij Rupert’s Jean Roi Rosé is well structured with a fleshy midpalate and long, rewarding aftertaste of lemon zest and a touch of lees. With its palate weight and mouthfeel, along with its vivid fruitiness, this makes for a good food wine. PAIRING: This premium Rosé is made in the same dry style as Rosés found in Provence and should be enjoyed with rich, flavorsome dishes such as an artichoke and asparagus salad, Parma Ham or a light seafood risotto.

For just R650 per person, guests will be treated to the following:

• Wine tasting at the Terra del Capo Tasting Room • An antipasti selection lunch from Terra del Capo’s seasonal menu • A premium tutored wine tasting at the Anthonij Rupert Tasting Room • A visit to the Franschhoek Motor

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To The

Tea Room A soulful spot in the heart of Jozi

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ver the last couple of years, the makers of YSWARA, an African tea brand, began brewing their own produce at a tea room in Johannesburg. You’ll find this tealover’s dream tucked away in the recently launched historic Cosmopolitan Hotel on Albrecht Street in Maboneng. Founder Swaady Martin is an Ivorian entrepreneur who holds Africa’s culture and history very close to her heart. After an 11-year career at General Electric (where she held quite a few senior positions across the world) Swaady decided to give up corporate life and follow her life-long dream to create a home-grown global luxury brand. Back in 2012, YSWARA began as a purveyor of bespoke teas making use of traditional African tea-making methods. To date, YSWARA has the world’s largest collection of African teas, offering 27 varieties of loose-leaf teas, blends and infusions. All YSWARA products are sourced from Africa and crafted by talented local artisans. “We have a business philosophy that we live by at YSWARA, called the Luxe Ubuntu. Ubuntu is commonly understood as one’s humanity being dependent on one’s relationship with others, or more directly ‘I am because we are.’” says Swaady. This has filtered

through into the Luxe Ubuntu which Swaady says, “Aims to give African luxury an added purpose by benefiting the community that contributes to our supply chain, through wealth creation. Through this philosophy, we look for ways to keep adding value throughout the supply chain. Africa is so rich with natural resources that I feel it should benefit from them.” When creating this inner city retreat, Swaady wanted her own special spin on a classic Moroccan style tea room that was both simple and soothing. Working closely with local designer Mia Widlake from Studio 19, you’ll discover the brand’s signature desert pink interiors (Swaady’s favourite colour and the same colour of all their tea packaging) inside that’s complemented by soft, stylish rose

gold and copper accents. “Our Atelier décor reflects our Pan-African spirit with inspirations from all parts of Africa: Moroccan-inspired tea room, Coptic crosses from Ethiopia, and totem lamps inspired by West and Central Africa. Every detail has meaning,” says Swaady.

Get in touch: 079 979 6734 www.yswara.com concierge@yswara.com Opening hours: Tuesday-Saturday 9am-4pm. Book 48 hours in advance. Where to find them: Maboneng, Johannesburg, South Africa / The Cosmopolitan, 1st floor, Corner Albrecht and Commissioner streets SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WHAT'S IN THE

Cellar?

POCKET WINE PAIRING (FREE, ON IOS & ANDROID): POCKET WINE PAIRING gives you a detailed index of hundreds of meal types, showing the best matches for different wine styles, grape varieties and blends. Plus, easy to follow information guides lets you discover even more food and wine pairing ideas for yourself.

There’s an APP for THAT

You want to know what’s in your cellar, how many bottles there are of each, what the vintages are, when are the best dates to drink, which wines you enjoyed the most, etc. For the organised wine lover, a choice of 5 downloadable apps: Simply find each of these in Apple or Android app stores. DECANTER KNOW YOUR WINE (FREE ON IOS & ANDROID): THE DECANTER APP prides itself on being the single most efficient way to learn about wine. Considered an essential tool for budding sommeliers, for folks writing wine exams or for those who simply would like a wealth of wine knowledge at their finger tips. This is by no means a quiz app, but rather all about learning and remembering the myriad of information around wine.

VIVINO (FREE, ON IOS AND ANDROID): Perhaps one of the most popular wine apps that scans wine labels and provides details about that wine. On top of this you’ll receive information such as user and expert ratings, prices and features. Well-suited to both newbies and connoisseurs alike, VIVINO is generally considered the best wine labelscanning application with the largest worldwide community of over 34 million users. ‘Largest collection of reviews from around the world’

DELECTABLE (FREE ON IOS & ANDROID): Some apps are a bit like your own personal wine journal— letting you add notes about all the wines you’ve tasted. DELECTABLE combines this journal-like style with the social media aspect, letting you see what well-known sommeliers are drinking. These users are verified (like on Twitter) and you get ratings from all over, broken down into regular and pro ratings.

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CELLARTRACKER (FREE ON IOS & ANDROID): One of the most popular wine apps that has a label scanning feature along with reviews and tasting notes. CELLARTRACKER is said to be the largest collection of wine reviews from around the world, with tasting notes and personal stories from people who love wine. The app allows you to find over 2,8 million wines, discover more than 7,9 million tasting notes (community and professional) and join a community of over 566 000 users.

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A long standing history in the Durbanville Hills On the 9th of February 1702, the farm Maastricht was granted to Hendrick Seeger, a Dutch settler that arrived in South Africa with the Dutch East India Shipping company. The farms’ name originated from the first settlers searching for land with the ambition to establish agriculture close to the Cape Colony to supply the Dutch East India Company on their travels. Looking at the clay soils, they were reminded of the soils of their hometown – Maastricht – hence the name. According to research, a part of the current farmhouse was built during the 1920s, but the farm had

different owners over the years who each added their own touches to the original building. During the Batavian Republic, Maastricht was used for meetings by members of the Republic. The line of old oak trees planted by a Dutch monk in the 1700s can still be seen today, they were planted as a cross for ceremonies and prayers. In a document from the early 19th century, Maastricht was one of the first nine farms to be registered as wine producers, a minimum of 10 000 vines was required in order to be classified as a wine estate.

www.maastricht.co.za Contact Melanie Louw: 076 540 5105 Email: info@maastricht.co.za Address: Maastricht Farm, Tygerberg Valley Road, Durbanville, 7550 Facebook and Instagram: @maastrichtwines

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ove me LTENDER A selection of winter warmer recipes that are hearty, wholesome and full of flavour

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BEEF RAGOUT WITH MUSHROOMS AND CARROTS Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 2 kg | 10 cups stewing or chuck steak, trimmed and cubed 3 tbsp sunflower oil 2 medium onions, chopped 2 large carrots, peeled and sliced 2 tbsp plain flour 2 tbsp tomato purée 250 ml dry red wine 225 g | 3 cups closed-cup mushrooms, cleaned 1 red pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 large cinnamon stick 2 bay leaves 1 l beef stock, low-sodium if preferred 1 small handful flat-leaf parsley, torn 1 small handful oregano, torn salt freshly ground black pepper METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 150°C. 2. Season the steak with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large casserole dish set over a moderate heat until hot. Working in two batches, brown the steak in the hot oil, about 5-6 min per batch. Remove to a plate when ready. 3. Pour away any excess drippings and fat to leave about 3 tbsp fat in the dish. Add the onions, carrots, and a generous pinch of salt, sautéing until the onions are coloured, about 5 min. 4. Stir in the flour and tomato purée and cook over a slightly reduced heat until darkened in appearance, about 2-3 min. 5. Return the browned steak to the pan along with any accumulated juices. Pour over the red wine and bring to the boil, stirring. Reduce to a simmer until the wine has reduced by half, about 10-15 min. 6. Stir in the mushrooms, red pepper, garlic, cinnamon, bay leaf, stock, and some salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, and transfer to the oven. 7. Cook for about 2-2.5 hours until the steak is soft enough to break apart with your fingers. 8. Remove from the oven and season to taste with salt and pepper before serving with a garnish of herbs.

STUFFED QUAIL Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 200 g | 4 cups fresh breadcrumbs 2 large eggs, beaten 2 small onions, roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 lemon, zest only, finely grated 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped 5 quails, cleaned and trimmed 2-3 tbsp olive oil salt freshly ground black pepper METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. Stir together the breadcrumbs,

beaten egg, onion, garlic, lemon zest, most of the parsley, and plenty of salt and pepper to taste in a large mixing bowl. 3. Divide and pack the mixture into the quails. Truss the quails with butcher's twine or kitchen string and arrange in a roasting tray. 4. Brush the skin with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Scatter over the remaining parsley. 5. Roast until the centre of the stuffings register at least 71°C on a meat thermometer, about 17-20 min. 6. Remove from the oven and transfer to a platter, loosely covering with aluminium foil. Let rest for at least 10 min before serving.

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BEEF RIBS BRAISED IN RED WINE Serves 4 INGREDIENTS 2 kg beef short ribs, bone-in, cut crosswise into 5 cm pieces 3 tbsp sunflower oil 2 medium onions, chopped 3 medium carrots, peeled and chopped 3 celery stalks, sliced 3 tbsp plain flour 1 tbsp tomato purée 750 ml dry red wine (Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot) 4 - 5 thyme sprigs, plus extra to serve 2 rosemary sprigs 2 bay leaves 3 - 4 whole star anise 1 garlic head, split in half crosswise 1 litre beef stock, low-sodium if preferred salt freshly ground black pepper

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METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 170°C. 2. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large casserole dish set over a moderate heat until hot. Working in two batches, brown the ribs in the hot oil, turning occasionally, about 6-7 min per batch. Remove to a plate when ready. 3. Pour off any excess drippings and fat from the dish to leave you with about 3 tbsp. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and a generous pinch of salt to the dish. 4. Sauté until the onions are coloured, about 5 min. Stir in the flour and tomato purée, cooking until darkened in colour, about 2-3 min. 5. Stir in the red wine and browned short ribs, as well as their accumulated juices. Bring to the boil and then reduce to a simmer until the wine has reduced by about half, 25-30 min. 6. Stir in the herbs, spices, garlic, and stock. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, and transfer to the oven. 7. Cook until the ribs are tender and coming away from the bone, about 2-2.5 hours. 8. Remove from the oven and season to taste with salt and pepper before serving with some more thyme as a garnish.

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SA’S TOP WINE PICKS

THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)

Wine-of-the-Month Club • Metzer The Kitchen Sink 2016 R170.00 • Cavalli Warlord 2016 R195.00 • Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Franc 2016 R135.00 • Raka Pinotage 2017 R109.00 • Whalehaven Unwooded Viognier 2017 R125.00 • Boland Chenin Sauvignon Grenache Blanc 2018 R89.00 • Thelema Mountain White 2015 R105.00 • Usana Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2016 R120.00 • Zevenwacht 7even Bouquet Blanc 2018 R75.00 • Zandvliet Muscat 2018 R85.00 • Overhex Balance Semi Sweet Muscat 2018 R75.00

Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections

Quoin Rock Namysto Red 2015 Reserve Club Aromas of red berries and hints of peppercorn ‘spiciness’ which then leads through to a palate layered with profiles of tobacco and leather, plummy richness on the mid-palate and finishing off with soft, velvety tannins. PAIRING: Will complement most red-meat dishes and an array of cheeses. Cavalli Warlord 2016 Wine-of-the-Month Club An elegant Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Dark, intense ruby colour with concentrated fruit and soft,

David Biggs

Margaret Fundira

Winnie Bowman

Colin Collard

well-balanced tannins. Notes of blackcurrant, vanilla and cigar box. PAIRING: Enjoy with braised beef, lamb, grilled radicchio, thyme roasted mushrooms and polenta. Dornier Cocoa Hill Red 2016 Best Value Club Aromas of raspberry, cherry and a hint of eucalyptus. The palate shows pure fruit with refined notes of cherry, plum and cranberry. The palate is full, fresh and lively with a supple tannin structure and a well-balanced acidity. PAIRING: Braised oxtail, Beef Bourguignon, charcuterie platter and smoked kudu carpaccio.

Claude Felbert

PJ ‘Buks’ Nel

Christine Rudman

Gregory Mutambe

Best Value • Bader & Walters Shiraz 2015 R75.00 • Dornier Cocoa Hill Red 2016 R75.00 • Bellevue Pinotage 2015 R95.00 • Eagle’s Nest The Little Eagle Red 2016 R125.00 • Simonsig Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018 R95.00 • Bonfire Hill White 2018 R85.00 • Taillard Gully Chenin Blanc 2018 R97.50 • Bruce Jack Sauvignon Blanc 2018 R67.50 • Zevenwacht 7even Bouquet Blanc 2018 R75.00 • Zandvliet Muscat 2018 R85.00 • Overhex Balance Semi Sweet Muscat 2018 R75.00 Reserve • Quoin Rock Nymysto Red 2015 R175.00 • Creation Syrah Grenache 2017 R199.00 • Mount Vernon Malbec 2014 R299.00 • La Cave Pinotage 2017 R279.00 • Tokara Director’s Reserve White 2016 R295.00 • Môreson Mercator Chardonnay 2016 R270.00 Platinum Club • Bellevue 1953 Pinotage R620.00 • Napier Red Medallion 2010 R300.00 • Boschkloof Conclusion 2016 R369.00 • Gift Horse Barbera 2017 R699.00 • Oak Valley Groenlandberg Chardonnay 2017 R305.00 • Wildekrans BS Reserve Chenin 2017 (Top 10) R305.00

Clive Torr

Irina von Holdt

Tinashe Nyamudoka

Nick Le Roux

To purchase these wines and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

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YOUR WINE FAQS

SHOULD ALCOHOL CONTENT INFLUENCE OUR CHOICE OF WINE? HOW DOES WINE’S ALCOHOL COMPARE WITH THAT OF BEER? WHAT IS A LACY STAGGER? I notice that every wine I buy has the alcohol content printed on the label. Is this important to consumers and should it influence our choice of wine? The alcohol content of every wine must, by law, be displayed on the label. It is important information for several reasons and, yes, it could influence your selection in the liquor store. Alcohol is the product of the chemical reaction between yeast and sugar, both of which are naturally present in grapes. A high alcohol content (14 or 15 percent) means the grapes were picked when fully ripe and packed with sugar. Low alcohol wines may contain as little as 9% alcohol, which means the grapes were picked before reaching full ripeness. The result is likely to be a rather acid wine, lean and thin in character but probably favoured by dieters. When it comes to driving what is the difference in the alcohol content of a glass of wine and, say, a beer? Ideally we should not drink alcohol at all before driving, but we know that many of us do. It has been shown in numerous tests that even one drink will affect your reaction

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time when driving. A normal beer contains about 5% alcohol. A “lite” beer comes in at about half that amount. This means that, by volume, beer generally contains about half as much alcohol as wine does. Take into account that a glass of beer is about twice the size of a glass of wine. In general, therefore, a beer and a wine put almost equal amounts of alcohol into your bloodstream. Now your choice of drink depends on whether you simply want to relax at home with a delicious, guilt-free drink, or risk sipping it in the pub and then driving home. Our advice is, for sheer enjoyment at home select a robust, high-alcohol wine. However, if you’ll be driving home and feel you must drink, stick to the lowest alcohol content you can find, and drink only one modest glass, preferably with food. Best of all, of course, is not to drink at all before driving, and to save your best wines for home consumption. Always consider using an Uber or having a designated driver to take you home, rather than risking the unpleasant consequences of mixing alcohol and driving.

While on holiday in England recently I was introduced to an interesting cocktail in a pub in Hereford. They called it a Lacy Stagger. Any idea what goes into it? I’d like to add it to my cocktail repertoire. Yes, it’s a cider-based cocktail consisting of cider, English wine, vodka and orange juice. It was invented by the Symonds Cider Company in Hereford and is not widely known outside the county of Herefordshire. If you make it in South Africa you will probably need to use a low alcohol Sauvignon Blanc instead of the English wine, which is not widely available here.

2019/04/29 12:43 PM


Quick

FIX

If you’re LOOKING for something delicious this month we look at two categories of wine that WILL DELIVER exactly that BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM

N

eed a quick fix? If there’s one thing we all know will put a smile on our face it’s a spoonful of sugar. Whether it’s the honey badger in the wild, or a boy at the cookie jar, they’re both looking for the same thing—the perk-up of sugar. There was even a wine called QF from Rustenberg Estate, which was short for, yes, you guessed it, Quick Fix, because the wine makers would dip into the barrel and pull out a quick glassful as a pick-me-up. And so it is with the picky panel—it starts with a smile that merely twitches a corner of the mouth as we taste the off-dry wines. Then as we work our way through to the sweetest and most luscious, those barely-there smiles become wider and wider... THE SWEETS The first issue we have is that this is actually two tastings. We see lovely everyday wines crammed with juicy, bouncy fruit at the less sweet end of the sugar spectrum. Then luscious, seriously sweet wines often with botrytis and sometimes with oak. The challenge with sweet wines is the almost daring high-wire act of balancing very carefully the acid with the sugar. 2 4

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL CHARDONNAY WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Hermanuspietersfontein Uilander Chardonnay 2015. ALSO LIKED: Laarman Cluster Series Chardonnay 2016, Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chardonnay 2017, Simonsig Chardonnay 2017, Weltevrede Vanilla Chardonnay 2017, Simonsvlei Vanilla Pot Chardonnay 2016. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: De Wet Chardonnay 2017, DeMorgenzon Reserve Chardonnay 2017, Topiary Chardonnay 2016, Neil Ellis Whitehall Chardonnay 2016, Hartenberg Chardonnay 2016, DeMorgenzon DMZ Chardonnay 2017, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Chardonnay 2017, Waterkloof False Bay Crystalline Chardonnay 2017, Clos Malverne Chardonnay 2017, Simonsvlei Premier Chardonnay 2017, Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Chardonnay 2017, Bonnievale Chardonnay 2017, Hermanuspietersfontein Uilander Chardonnay 2016, Allée Bleue Owl Chardonnay 2017.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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They’re FULL of SUNSHINE and are really BEAUTIFUL

Too little acid and we get flabby, blowsy wines with no palate appeal, too much and the sugar is overwhelmed and we rush for the Enos. But there’s a sweet spot (pun intended) where it all comes together and, broadly speaking, the higher the sugar, the more acid there is. We start with the off-dry and semisweet styles. “We don’t make enough of our lovely sweet wines. They’re full of sunshine and are really beautiful. International visitors fall in love with them and can’t get enough,” points out Winnie. “I know what you mean, there’s this odd idea here that if you’re serious about wine you shouldn’t be drinking sweet wine,” says Irina rather indignantly. “These are so well balanced,” says Christine. “Lovely fruit, too. You can’t help liking them.” Winnie has another idea. “Serve these well chilled to anyone who doesn’t drink wine,” she says, “and they’ll be hooked.” This is an important point—so many wine lovers arrive via the route of sweetish wines—they’re so delicious and make no demands other than to just love them. It’s the great open doorway to the world of wine. So we move on to sweeter, more serious wines.

Dave, an avowed sweet wine lover, has a quibble. “I find a sweet Chardonnay or Sémillon rather an awkward thing to get my head around,” he says. Greg also has a problem. “With sugars up to about 90 g/l they are charming,” he says, “but above that they actually become hard work.” Irina: “More of us should drink these after dinner as a treat. Cabernet simply doesn’t go well with ice cream and apple crumble. Some of the most famous wines in the world are sweet, and many are from the Cape. Think of Napoleon…” Who craved the sweet wines of Constantia while in his lonely exile on St Helena. Another great plus with sweet wines is their seductive perfume. A careful sniff will show blossom, honey or honeycomb, heady evening flowers, orange marmalade, grapefruit peel and mimosa, to name just a few. Find some of your own. Colin has the final word. “Terrific category,” he says, “I love just about all of them.” The Wine-of-the-Month Club does

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL CHENIN BLANC

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Anthonij Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2017. ALSO LIKED: Mulderbosch Steen op Hout Chenin Blanc 2017, Piekenierskloof Chenin Blanc 2017, Allée Bleue Chenin Blanc 2017, Waterkloof False Bay Slow Chenin Blanc 2017. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Morgenhof Estate Chenin Blanc 2017, Anura Reserve Chenin Blanc 2016, Bosman Optenhorst Chenin Blanc 2016, Simonsig Avec Chene Chenin Blanc 2016, Ormonde Chip Off The Old Block Chenin Blanc 2017, Ormonde Ondine Chenin Blanc 2017, Cloverfield Chenin Blanc 2017, Pearl Mountain Stubborn Man Chenin Blanc 2017, Simonsvlei Lifestyle Steyn Chenin Blanc NV, Dornier Cocoa Hill Chenin Blanc 2017, Simonsvlei Lifestyle Chenin Blanc 2017, Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Bush Vines Chenin Blanc 2017, De Wet Cellar Chenin Blanc 2017, Bosman Generation 8 Chenin Blanc 2017, Simonsvlei Premier Chenin Blanc 2017.

PORTS

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: De Krans Cape Vintage 2016. ALSO LIKED: De Krans Cape Vintage Reserve 2015, Boplaas Cape Vintage Reserve 2016, Boplaas Reserve Cape Vintage 2014, Boplaas Cape Vintage 2016. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Bon Courage Cape Vintage 2016, Peter Bayly Cape Vintage 2010, Simonsig Cape Vintage Reserve 2015, Boplaas Cape Tawny NV, Peter Bayly Cape Late Bottled Vintage 2008, Bergsig Cape Vinatge 2004, Landskroon Cape Vintage 2013, Simonsig Cape Vintage 2014, Landzicht Rooi Muskadel 2017, De Krans Premium Cape Ruby NV, Landzicht Cape Ruby 2015, Boplaas Cape Ruby NV, Rooiberg Cape Vintage 2015, Allesverloveren Old Vintage 2016, Alto Fine Old Vintage 2008, Van Loveren Red Muscadel 2017, Bersig Cape Late Bottled Vintage 2010, Boplaas The Chocolate Cape Vintage 2016, Peter Bayly Cape White NV, Van Loveren Cape Ruby Port NV, De Wet Cape Ruby NV, Villiera Fired Earth 2012, Bersig Cape Ruby NV, Du Toitskloof Cape Ruby Port 2010, Koelenhof Pinorto Cape Ruby 2015, Prince Albert Dessert Wine 2013, Org de Rac The Old Pumphouse Cape Ruby NV.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE | Panel Report

not include Noble Late Harvest styles in the monthly packs because the bottles are small and members may think they’re being short-changed, but they are available online, or by telephoning the Club. BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS Let’s be frank, we love this style, but tasting it can be a disadvantage because we have high expectations. We see a wide spread of wines from quite simple Cabernet Merlot blends to the most elevated, carefully wrought examples of blending art. It always amuses us when scores are finally revealed; we often see a modestly priced wine trash far more expensive ones. There’s some aspirational pricing going on, particularly in this category. The old problems arise, however— tough tannins, sometimes bitter, too. We look for those wines where tannins are in harmony—even if still young and a bit gruff. If there is sufficient fruit weight the wine will be in balance. We are also fortunate because we taste wines that are several years old. They have had a chance to mellow and relax those tannins, but if the wine was unbalanced in youth it is never able to regain that all-too-elusive balance. “Some very well made wines and some

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very expensive oak,” says Christine. “Much better than before and much better than Cabernet.” “Some harsh tannins though, even some bitterness, and then those coffee wines,” complains Winnie. “It’s a shame for this category to be treated with such disrespect.” Greg has a new slant: “I would like to see more with Cabernet Franc as the lead variety.” A good call that because the Franc is clearly from the Cabernet family, but is softer and silkier with classy aromas of berries and violet. “I think we made a mistake about thirty years ago when we rushed into Merlot because it was supposed to be soft and velvety. We took a wrong turning,” says Irina. “Yes, Merlot does not add softness, it actually adds toughness,” says Greg. “I can always pick up the Cab Franc,” smiles Buks. In that case, does it dominate? “No, it seems to hold hands with the others in the blend,” says Irina. Colin disagrees: “Yes, it dominates, but that’s not bad.” But we all agree that Cab Franc has idled in the background for far too long and deserves a higher profile. It is insistent, but subtle and elegant. Christine sums it all up: “Blends made with imagination, made with care and delicious to drink.”

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL BORDEAUX BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Glen Carlou Classique 2015. ALSO LIKED: Saronsberg Seismic Rooi 2014, Leipzig Grand Master 2016, L’ Avenir Provenance Stellenbosch Classic 2016, Fort Simon Fortress Hill 2016. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Rustenberg John X Merriman 2015, DeMorgenzon Maestro Red 2015, Romond Rebus Fanfaronne 2009, Reyneke Organic Cornerstone 2014, Rietvallei Estéanna Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Petit Verdot 2015, Constantia Red Horizon 2014, Simonsig Tiara 2012, Stellenrust Timeless 2014, Oldenburg Rhodium 2012, Noble Savage Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2013, Simonsvlei Premier Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2016, Klein Constantia KC Cabernet Merlot 2013, Le Bonheur Prima 2014, Aadering Cabernet Merlot 2013, Le Riche Richesse 2015.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Rainbow’s End Cabernet Sauvignon 2016. ALSO LIKED: L’ Avenir Provenance Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Waterkloof Peacock Wild Ferment Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Bonnievale Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2015. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Goudini Ruby Cabernet 2015, Hartenberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Van Loveren Christina Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Môreson Mata Mata Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Weltevrede Chocmint Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Ormonde Off The Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Weltevrede Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Arendskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Waterkloof Circumstance Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Bonnievale Angus The Bull Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Le Bonheur Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Stellenrust Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Bosman Generation 8 Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Lutzville Cabernet Sauvignon 2016.

2019/04/29 3:17 PM


FROM THE HISTORICAL TERROIR,

COMES SUPERB WINES The name Compagnies Wijn stems from the historical Verenigde Oost Indiese Compagnie (Dutch East India Company) who started an outpost in 1699 in the beautiful Tulbagh Valley. The wines are produced and bottled by the Swanepoel family on their farm Oude Compagnies Post.

www.oudecompagnies.com Address: P.O. Box 111, Tulbagh. 6820 | Dirk Swanepoel (Winemaker): 071 013 8613 Email: swanepoel@compagnies.co.za

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CONNOISSEUR’S

CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

1. Babylonstoren Chardonnay 2017 (Price R275.00) Classy, sleek structure with subtle citrus fruit softened with textured creaminess, vanilla and nutty complexity. Tangy mineral tones with fine intensity and balance; good focus and length with a refreshing finish. Drink now or in 6 years. PAIRING: Creamy dishes from white wine pasta sauces to risotto as well as light truffle and blue cheese flavours.

4. Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Franc 2016 (Price R135.00) The nose entices with a character of dried thyme, oregano and Cape Fynbos. The palate is dominated by aromas of dark cherries, blueberries and graphite, which gives it a unique spin. The tannins are silky and the finish is long and smooth. Drink in 4-8 years. PAIRING: Red meats like steak or venison.

7. Boschkloof Conclusion 2016 (Price R369.00) On the nose the aromas are mixed herbs, bruised plum and some lovely cigar box flavours. The wine is highly concentrated with a big but elegant mid-palate and a long finish. This wine has great potential for ageing. Drink in 10+ years. PAIRING: Serve alongside hearty stews, braised oxtail or rich game dishes.

2. Bergsig Reserve Chardonnay 2017 (Price R275.00) This wine shows typical characteristics of a slow ripening area. Full ripe flavours, makes this wine both complex and elegant. You’ll find a good balance between fruit, creamy butterscotch and spicy oak. Drink now. PAIRING: Goes well with creamy vegetable soups and lightly cooked shellfish.

5. Bonfire Hill White 2018 (Price R85.00) Ripe aromas of citrus and peach, backed up by the faintest sprinkling of fresh thyme and vanilla. The aromas introduce a palate altogether more complex, with rich, moreish, juicy stone fruit, wrapped up in crunchy, refreshing, grapey acidity. Mouthfilling, delicious and succulent. Drink in 10 years. PAIRING: Enjoy on its own or pair with seafood, pizza.

8. Tokara Director’s Reserve White 2016 (Price R285.00) The nose shows stunning complexity with fruit notes of ripe quince, passion fruit all intermingled with hints of lemon grass, toasted almonds and freshly baked brioche. The wine enters the palate full and rich—reminiscent of the aromas on the nose. Drink now or by 2026. PAIRING: Best served with foods such as grilled fish or roast duck.

3. Dornier Malbec 2015 (Price R130.00) Aromas of dark berries and plum with hints of violet—which is typical of this varietal. The palate is rich in texture and shows characteristics of berry, dark chocolate and juicy fruit. The finish is long with a balanced acidity and fine tannin structure. Drink now. PAIRING: Pairs well with barbecued meats like beef fillet or lamb cutlets.

6. Boland Talent & Terroir Shiraz 2016 (Price R95.99) Deep ruby colour, shows a light smoky nose with a dash of vanilla and spice. Well-balanced on taste, with fruit-cake complexity and a soft white pepper spiciness carrying through to the lingering, silky aftertaste. Drink 3-5 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with spare ribs or venison.

9. Boland Five Climates Shiraz 2016 (Price R69.99) This soft, elegant Shiraz shows layers of sweet blackcurrant fruit with a pronounced black pepper finish on the palate. An elegant wine with typical Shiraz flavours. Drink 3-5 years. PAIRING: Delicious with oxtail and steak.

‘Shows characteristics of berry, dark chocolate and juicy fruit’ SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

10. Van Loveren Retief Reserve Cape Blend 2017 (Price R129.99) A full-bodied, well-structured wine with a light peppery scent of ripe berries, perfume and spice. A characterful wine with a full and fruity palate with delicate tannins and a soft finish. Drink in 5-8 years. PAIRING: Lamb with rosemary and garlic, venison or turkey.

11. Oak Valley Groenlandberg Chardonnay 2017 (Price R305.00) This Chardonnay expresses generous stone fruit aromas like peach, with touches of oatmeal and flint. This follows on the palate with ruby where grapefruit is the dominant character. Lovely dense palate with great balance between the oak and citrus fruits, supported by sweet, zesty acidity. Drink Now. PAIRING: Chicken or vegetable terrines and pasta or risotto with spring vegetables.

12. Boland One Formation Pinotage Shiraz Grenache 2016 (Price R119.00) This elegant red wine has upfront dark, ripe fruit, particularly of blackcurrant and plums, juicy and approachable, with savouriness – all harmonising in a smooth, lingering taste with a long, clean finish. Drink now or in 3-4 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with grilled beef rump or braised pork.

13. Gift Horse 2017 (Price R699.00) An explosion of dark, black, inky fruit on the palate with a fresh, clean, refreshing acidity and soft, luscious tannins. If cellared correctly this vintage will live for twenty years easily, but also drinks very well now. Drink now or in 20 years if stored correctly. PAIRING: Enjoy with Vitello Tonnato as well as grass-fed rib eye with a dusting of pepper.

16. Bellevue Pinotage 2015 (Price R95.00) Full of lovely ripe cherry, plum and raspberry flavours present on the nose, followed by a firm, silky tannin structure and a long, lingering finish. Drink in 5-10 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with your favourite freshly-caught game fish or with a hearty winter bean soup.

14. Creation Syrah Grenache 2017 (Price R199.99) Alluring aromas of ripe black olive that’s elegantly complemented by whiffs of pepper. A full-bodied Rhône-style blend rewarding with intense flavours of ripe plum, black pepper and the smokiness characteristic of Syrah. Supple, ripe tannins and well-integrated, natural acidity contribute to the appeal. Drink now or in 2-3 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with roasted, grilled or smoked meat dishes.

17. Penelope Brut Rosé 2016 (Price R399.00) This sparkling Rosé is very dry, with deliciously savoury notes of rhubarb and shortbread underpinning just-ripe strawberry. Drink now or in 15 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with light salads, as well as light pasta and rice dishes.

15. Taillard Gully Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R97.50) Tropical fruit salad nose with hints of quince and almond savouriness. On the palate the balance is impeccable with a creamy texture. Underlining the wine’s pedigree is an intense finish which lingers long after the mouthful has been swallowed. Drink Now. PAIRING: Enjoy with a range of seafood dishes, chicken, pasta or vegetarian fare.

18. Boland One Formation Chenin/ Sauvignon/Grenache Blanc 2018 (Price R89.00) The classical Chenin notes of guava, green apples, white flowers and fynbos honey, the lovely green aromas of Sauvignon and the Grenache Blanc adding its special tart rustic fruit. Full from entry, fills the centre palate with all the fruits and other flavours with generosity. Drink now or in 3-4 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with roast organic chicken.

‘Supported by sweet, zesty acidity’ 3 0

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

19. Thelema Mountain White 2015 (Price R105.00) A delicious blend with aromas of ripe peaches, creamy golden delicious apples and hints of citrus. Packed with flavour on the palate, this wine is a real crowd pleaser. Drink now or by 2021. PAIRING: Particularly good with seafood and flavourful chicken dishes.

22. Neil Ellis Groenkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R99.00) Bright aromatics, of fresh late summer fruits lifted florals with subtle herbaceous overtones. The palate is elegantly concentrated with sweet tropical fruits and lively balanced acidity. Mineral notes with a refined, poised palate line. Fine texture and long flavoursome finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoy with cream-based pasta and Goat’s Cheese.

20. Raka Pinotage 2017 (Price R109.00) Dark Ruby colour with perfumes of sweet cherries, blackberries, plums and a spiciness on the nose. The same fruity characters on the palate are wrapped up in soft oak hints. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoy with sashimi and sushi.

21. Marianne Merlot 2014 (Price R275.00) Blue fruit, oyster shell and herbs on the nose, with an expressive and full palate of ripe red and blue fruit and spice, followed by a long, savoury finish. Drink now or in 3-4 years. PAIRING: Grilled flat iron steak with Blue Cheese butter or Mediterranean lamb burgers.

Did you Know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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My Uncle Billy

M

y late Uncle Bill was the head of a large church organisation violently opposed to the use of alcohol and the sin of dancing. I remember him as a sour little man with a twitching toothbrush moustache. He was married to a rather sweet, but gormless aunt whom he called “Cousin”, for some unknown reason. From time to time he would come to spend time with my parents on the farm. They were gloomy times. My parents always enjoyed a relaxing drink after a hard day’s farming, but when Uncle Bill was visiting they would smuggle their drinks into the bathroom and sit drinking on the loo and bath so as not to upset the great man’s religious sensitivity. The family was also subjected to long after-supper Bible readings and 3 2

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prayer sessions which seemed to go on forever. Eventually my mother’s patience came to an end and she confronted the holy gentleman. “Billy,” she said, “we like to have a drink before supper. You are welcome to join us, or wait until it’s supper time.” The little toothbrush moustache quivered indignantly, and he said: “I’ll go for a little walk.” The next evening, he relented and had an Oros and water, averting his eyes from the horrifying spectacle of my parents consuming brandy and gin, clearly the product of Satan’s evil hand, but after that things were far less tense at spots-time. Dad had his dop, Mom had her G&T and Uncle Billy sipped a weak Oros and water. Nobody was struck by lightning. I may be imagining it, but I believe his sermons took a softer

tone with regard to alcohol. Maybe he saw that my parents did not beat each other or use profane language after their evening “spot”. His attitude toward dancing and jazz music remained unrelentingly harsh. Eventually Uncle Billy’s ancient Vanguard car broke down and my father and another uncle clubbed together to pay for a new one. That evening at prayers time Uncle Billy praised the Almighty for His bountiful goodness in providing transport to ensure the Word could continue to be spread among the Heathen. From the back row my father’s rather sour voice was heard to mutter: “That’s the first time in my life anybody has called me Almighty.”

Illustration by: Chloé Damstra

A YOUNG David Biggs recalls one of his LEAST FAVOURITE relatives

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

2019/04/29 3:13 PM


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