SA Connoisseur - Issue 285, Winter 2021

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VOL 285

7 WINE INFLUENCERS to follow

Val de Vie Where the Living is Easy

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RED WINE HEALTH BENEFITS | 3 NICE AND NUTTY RECIPES MEET MALU LAMBERT | WOODSTOCK’S FLOWER CAFÉ


WINE TASTING • PICNICS • WEDDING VENUE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard EDITOR Kari Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke FREELANCE DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BU YER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BU YER Dean Townsend REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles) OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

CONTACT ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za. WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to taryn@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.

A must-visit BOUTIQUE WINERY

You’ll find Canto wines situated on the rolling hills of the picturesque Durbanville Valley. As a boutique winery, they firmly believe that quality takes first place over everything else. While Canto’s entire range of boutique wines is well worth the drive, their Cap Classique collection is what really sets them apart. Their Cap Classique range consists of a 100% Chardonnay, a 100% Pinot Noir, a Pinot Noir/ Chardonnay blend and a unique Shiraz Cap Classique.

FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth

In the short lifespan of Canto’s existence, the estate has won numerous awards making them a must-visit Cap Classique destination in Durbanville. Printed by

A division of Novus Holdings

South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

Be sure to visit their state-of-the-art tasting room and enjoy your wines alongside a selection of cheeses, preserves and cold meats. Or opt for their signature Cap Classique & Macaron pairing. Stay cozy inside or enjoy the beautiful patio with views for days over the vineyards.

WWW.CANTOWINE S.CO.ZA


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CONTENTS 04 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 05 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 07 MEET MALU LAMBERT OUR NEWEST PANEL MEMBER 08 INSIDE WOODSTOCK’S FLOWER CAFÉ 10 A VISIT TO VAL DE VIE 14 YOUR GUIDE TO VIRTUAL WINE TASTINGS 16 SEVEN WINE INFLUENCERS TO FOLLOW

THE MANY HEALTH BENEFITS OF RED WINE 20 HEART WARMING WINTER RECIPES TO TRY 24 IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS 28 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED 29 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 32 DAVID BIGGS ON THE SECRET INGREDIENT TO GOOD WINE 18

ON THE COVER A Visit to Val De Vie p.10


POWER - ELEGANCE - BALANCE

SOUTH AFRICAN WINE WITH A FRENCH TOUCH VISIT OUR TASTING ROOM, GLASS MUSEUM AND THE VINE BISTRO FOR AN UNIQUE EXPERIENCE. WWW.GLENELLYESTATE.COM TEL: 021 809 6440

Live the Winelands way of life Plots selling from R2.4 million incl. VAT

Renowned for creating distinctive wines, Anura Wine Estate now offers you the opportunity to be part of this working wine farm at Vini Fera Anura

For more information on plots for sale in Vini Fera Anura please contact: Katya Varga • 071 471 3247 katya.varga@pamgolding.co.za pamgolding.co.za/vinifera-anura


Malu Lambert p.7

Flower Café p.8

COMING FULL CIRCLE

Recipes p.18

It happens every now and again: you come full circle and back to where you started. One such example is our new panel member, Malu Lambert. She first joined Wine-of-the-Month Club as an intern on our then publication, Good Taste. Now, over a decade later, she’s back as our newest wine taster. In that time, she’s won awards, had two babies, and taken the South African wine scene by storm. She’s now using her tasting skills and varied experiences to help select and describe our wines. Moving on to this winter issue, we’ve included all kinds of things to keep you warm and snug, no matter how cold the weather blows. First, we take a trip to Woodstock and discover how a small business was knocked off its feet by the Covid-19 pandemic, how it got up again and blossomed into an entirely new concept, the Flower Café. Then on p.18 Dave Biggs shares some of the many health benefits of red wine… for you to mull over while you sip on a glass of the good stuff. Moving on to food, we share a selection of hearty and wholesome recipes where nuts are the stars of the show. We see Butternut and Cashew Curry in your future. On page 16 we spotlight a few wine influencers who are telling their wine stories through those little squares. Time to join Instagram, then? Included, of course, is information on all the latest and greatest in wine. Here’s to coming full circle.

CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Wine Down Wednesdays at Neethlingshof, now-30 June For the perfect mid-week break, ‘wine’ down, relax and recharge with Neethlingshof’s Live Music Wednesdays. Enjoy a variety of live music while enjoying a glass of the estate’s awardwinning wines and a delicious selection of pizzas and light meals from The Salt Road. Booking is essential as seating is limited due to Covid-19 regulations. admin@neethlingshof.co.za

What’s on Festivals and Events Around SA

Nederburg’s ‘Journey of SA Flavours’ Dinner Series At The Manor, Now-31 July In a country as diverse as ours, we should celebrate the unique ingredients and flavours that tell the stories of our people. With this in mind, chef Jerry Kennedy at Nederburg’s The Manor restaurant introduces a fun series of 8-course dinners to showcase some of SA’s diverse ingredients. Taking place on the last Saturday of each month, the series costs R850 per couple and includes a bottle of wine. info@nederburg.com.

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Musical Moments at Haute Cabrière, Now-19 June A family-owned winery, Haute Cabrière has roots that extend deep into Franschhoek’s wine valley, heritage and community. With a passion for creating moments for people to share together through quality wines, the team brings you live music on select Saturdays this winter. Enjoy breads and spreads from the bakery to start, a choice of mains and homemade macarons with coffee for dessert. Costs R350pp. reservations@cabriere.co.za Knysna Oyster Festival, 9-18 July Yup, The Knysna Oyster Festival is happening! Instead of working from home, why not visit Knysna for the famous Knysna Oyster Festival? Full of all the festival favourites, enjoy fresh oysters, delicious food, quaint coffee shops, whale watching, arts and culture events—and, of course, one of the most beautiful half marathons in the country. Oh, and there’s lots of activities to keep kiddies entertained. So, don’t delay and book your accommodation stat. www.knysnaoysterfestival.co.za Winter picnics at Jordan Wine Estate, Now-30 August Unwind in the tranquillity of Jordan Wine Estate in your own open-air picnic pod and be refreshed by the crisp winelands air. Each basket is R500, for two people, and includes a bottle of Chameleon wine of your choice. Baskets include freshly-baked breads, charcuterie, selection of hard and soft cheeses, chicken pâté, apple chutney, smoked snoek pâté, and savoury whipped butter. You will also receive a quiche Lorraine per person and then finish your meal on a sweet note with the Chef’s patisserie of the day. Kiddies picnics available for R125. Call 021 881 3004.


There’s a New Sommelier in Town Meet Marlvin Gwese—the newly appointed sommelier at Greenhouse at The CellarsHohenort in Cape Town. Zimbabwean-born Gwese began his career as a wine steward at The Table Bay and also graduated with a Cape Wine Academy Diploma in 2013. In 2015, Marlvin gained his Wine and Spirits Education Trust Level 3 qualification and passed his Cape Wine Masters tasting. After a ten-year stint as head sommelier at the Cape Grace Hotel, Gwese decided it was time to take on a new challenge and join the talented Greenhouse team. We look forward to seeing you in action, Gwese! www.greenhouserestaurant.co.za

Wine & Dine What’s New in Food and Wine

Break Away to DWV

Unplug at Spier With a fireplace in every hotel room, plus spa, restaurants, art exhibitions, and a whole lot of fun things to do (not to mention wine tastings and pairings) Spier invites you to switch off with their new winter promo. They have a package designed for those who are all Zoom’ed out and need to take a break from it all. To help you disconnect and reconnect, you will receive a ‘switch off ’ kit to unplug and unwind. The kit includes a bottle of Spier Signature Wine, film camera (wait, they still make those?) to capture your offline moments, and a journal to jot down your thoughts. Plus, your kit doubles up as a phone safe to store your devices away for maximum memory making. Select any online package or rate and use the promo code, ‘ Reconnect’ to receive your special switch off kit on arrival. Valid until 30 September 2021. www.spier.co.za

Looking for a quick escape that’s just a 20-minute drive from Cape Town’s CBD? Head to the revitalised Durbanville Wine Valley (DWV) for a day (or weekend) of fun and exploring. The rolling hills and wide-open spaces make the Durbanville landscape a treat for fans of the great outdoors. Among its many attractions are over 170km of MTB routes that run through vineyards and wilderness areas. Prefer to sit somewhere warm and toasty while sipping some wine? We hear you, and for those that don’t wish to get muddy while mountain biking, DWV has plenty of delicious wines and dining excursions on offer too. Meet you there? www.durbanvillewine.co.za

A Site for Sore Eyes

Chardonnay lovers, have we got juicy news for you. Delheim has just released its much anticipated 2020 vintage of its Sur Lie Chardonnay. The popularity of this wine stems from a single vineyard high against the Simonsberg Mountain, the estate’s most consistently good block of Chardonnay. Over the decades this specific site has delivered award-winning Chardonnays, and the 2007 vintage from this same block won the trophy for Best Chardonnay in the World. The name Sur Lie refers to the months (nine in fact) the wine spent on the lees before blending and bottling. “The fruit the block delivers is evidence that if you plant the right cultivar at the right site in the right soil you can make wines that are layered, complex and elegant,” says Delheim winemaker Roelof Lotriet. The wine retails at around R250 per bottle.


ADVERTORIAL | Saxenburg

THE PERFECT

PAIRING GREAT WINE goes with GREAT FOOD. Learn WHAT TO SERVE with a few of our FAVOURITE WINES from SAXENBURG WINE ESTATE

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ne of the greatest dining pleasures is to find a wine that enhances the delights of both the drink and the dish. It is an elegant experience and appreciation of the four primary senses involved in the tasting. While the final sense, audition, may not lead, the sound of a popping cork and clinking glass in ‘cheers’ is always pleasing to the ear. Both wine and food are thoroughly enjoyable on their own, but in unison, the right match can take things to a different level. It brings out the subtle flavours of each item and opens up your taste buds to a whole world of discovery. Winemaker, Dirk van Zyl, approaches pairings from a few different angles. The first option is to balance each other out, like pairing a high acid wine with a fatty dish, to cut through the fat and balance both the wine and the food. The second option is matching or mirroring the wine and dish, like pairing a rich, barrel-aged Chardonnay with a creamy, rich dish. Or, you can also match aromas and flavours - such as a beautifully roasted beetroot matching the more earthy side of the Saxenburg Private Collection Syrah. The secret is to match the food elements with sweetness, saltiness, acidity, tannin or bitter factors in a given wine.

SAXENBURG ESTATE PAIRING EXPERIENCE Saxenburg Wine Estate produces award-winning wines in the heart of the Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch, a region of rolling vineyards, deep valleys and mountain backdrops. Saxenburg’s unique approach to winemaking has seen it win numerous awards, especially for its Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc wines. The intimate cellar door offers an insight into the passion and love that goes into making wine at the Saxenburg. At the same time, you enjoy fine wine and chocolate and biltong delicacies at the cellar door curated by proprietors, Vincent and Fiona Bührer; which include the option of four chocolates or four biltong pairings with red and white wines. The world’s most celebrated wine lovers agree that when it comes to pairing wine and food, the most important thing is to enjoy the experience and share in #SaxenburgMoments.

THREE WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGS TO TRY PRIVATE COLLECTION CHARDONNAY 2019 (Sells for R230) Pairs with most fish dishes or lighter meat dishes and creamy pasta. PRIVATE COLLECTION SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 (Sells for R125) Pairs well with salads, lighter summer dishes and seafood. PRIVATE COLLECTION SYRAH 2017 (Sells for R265) Pairs with game or full-flavoured meat dishes.

To find out more about Saxenburg or to purchase their range call 021 903 6113 or email info@saxenburg.co.za

WWW. SAXENBURG.CO.Z A WINE TASTINGS | CHOCOLATE AND BILTONG PAIRINGS | SAFARI SIGHTINGS | CATTLE BARON RESTAURANT | GUEST COTTAGES


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The

Talented Ms.Lambert Coming full circle, Malu Lambert is back at Wine-ofthe-Month Club as our newest panel member

Where did your wine journey start? I fell in love with wine when I worked as a waiter to pay for my studies; this saw me going overseas at one point where I worked in a London restaurant. Every Friday at “Table 17” we tasted wines from all over the world, and soon I not only fell in love with wine itself but also the story-telling aspect of it. And what happened next? When I got back home I converted my savings into studying journalism, while waitering still to pay my bills, further getting exposed to wine. At some point I picked up the phone and called the editor of the Wine-of-the-Month Club’s then magazine Good Taste and asked if I could write for them… and so began my internship, which I slotted into the afternoon between morning classes and carrying plates at night. The hard work paid off. When I graduated I was offered a permanent position at Good Taste. How did things evolve from there? This is where things really kicked off with wine. Not only was I exposed daily to wines from the Wine-of-the-Month Club, but also as a working journalist I visited many farms, events and the like—and from there the thirst grew and evolved. As soon as I could afford to I started augmenting my knowledge through various courses and tastings. I am currently in the WSET Diploma programme, with just one more big exam to go. I sit on various judging panels and I am also a taster for the Platter Guide. Any defining moment in your career? Yes. In 2019 when I got an email that I was on the shortlist for the Montblanc Emerging Wine 7

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Writer of the Year at the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards. Then and there I decided to book a flight to London, not at all expecting to win. I thought it would be a night to remember as well as a chance to meet one of my wine writing heroes, Jancis Robinson. And then I did win. I am only one of two South Africans to ever bring home a Roederer (the other is Michael Fridjohn). It was an incredible feeling; I have pushed myself and took many leaps of faith. To be recognised with such an honour makes it all worthwhile. Plus, the outpouring of support from the South African wine industry at large truly moved me. I felt the love. What do you hope to bring to the panel tastings? The panel is made up of South Africa’s winetasting icons, people I admire hugely. I hope to bring another angle and new energy. As you know, every taster is different. And I think the fact that I’ve worked for consumer magazines like Good Taste, plus I was the wine editor for Food & Home until it folded last year, gives me breadth and understanding of the wine-drinking market and what wine lovers are hoping to sip. What are you most looking forward to as a panellist? I’m a glutton for education and I look forward to interacting with the fine minds on the panel, as well as going ever deeper into my understanding of South African wines and the new styles and varieties coming onto the market. Care to share any wine tasting tips? Sure. First of all, acidity is always your key to a wine; it can help you identify the grape, region and style–and its ability to age. And when it

comes to quality, the finish is king. A highquality wine will always have a long finish. Your ultimate food and wine pairing? Chef Franck Dangereux and I have a project together we call Franck & Wine. I bring the wine, we taste, and he creates recipes just for them. One of my recent favourites has been his Prawn and Grape Gratin with Gorgonzola partnered with Vin de Constance 2017. It’s insane, in the best way. Malu Lambert lives in Noordhoek with her rum-making husband James and their two boys Elliott and Wilder. When she’s not sipping wine or writing about the juice, you can find her and her blue-eyed boys enjoying the Noordhoek common. For more information on Malu, the Franck & Wine recipes and FABLE (her story-telling, social media and copywriting company), visit www.malulambert.com.

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feature | flower café

The Secret Language

of Flowers

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A welcomed sanctuary on Sir Lowry Road

ast year, while many businesses closed their doors, others scrambled to adjust their offerings in order to survive. A company that turned itself around was Petals Group in Woodstock, Cape Town. Events and weddings—highly intense social activities—were at the core of the company’s activities and so Petals Group found itself in a desperate situation when the pandemic hit. “Closing our doors and saying goodbye to our staff members was never an option,” says Veronica (Vee) Yankelowitz, one of Petals Group’s events coordinators. “Not being able to run corporate events and bespoke weddings we had to reinvent the way we use our resources.” And so, sticking to their forte, the team created Flower Café. Not a coffee shop that sells flowers, but rather a place for flower lovers to get creative. “While Covid may have locked us out of hosting large events, it couldn’t lock us out of helping people unleash their inner 8

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flower arranging natures in our oneof-a-kind space,” says Petals Group founder, Flower Walker. (Yes, her name is Flower.) Located along Woodstock’s busy Sir Lowry Road, the founders of Flower Café have created “a large, whimsical workshop space and a team of talented floral artists who know how to host a great party. It was an easy transition to make,” says Vee. While you set about arranging a bunch of flowers in the workshop area, Flower shares interesting facts about a few of her favourite blooms and talks about the ‘The Secret Language of Flowers’. It was a Victorian tradition to use flowers to convey secret messages to loved ones in a society where feelings often had to be suppressed. In between arranging flowers, you can enjoy barista-made coffees and help yourself to a delicious spread of cakes, muffins, quiches, and homemade

biscuits. Flower Café even has a dedicated crêpe maker where a crêpe (or three) can be made to suit your taste. So, if you’re looking for a fun, relaxing way to spend time with your family or friends, schedule a visit to Flower Café. A morning spent in this space is also a great way to enjoy a special occasion such as a birthday or baby shower, or even a fun and different team-building experience with colleagues.


Photo credit COLETTE BENJAMINE & NIKKI VAN DIERMEN

flower café | feature

Enjoy Flowers for Longer Most of us toss out our droopylooking bunches of flowers after a week or so, but do you know there are several ways to enjoy flowers in your home for much longer? Below are some of Flower’s tips on making flowers last longer: • Don’t cut the flower’s stem straight across at the bottom, instead cut them at an angle. This allows for more water uptake, and helps the flower to look fresh for longer. • Submerge flowers in hot water (not boiling) and then cold water. Warm stems soak up more water; while afterwards the cool water help keep the blooms fresh. • Add a drop of Jik and a teaspoon of sugar to the water. The chlorine in the bleach kills bacteria and the sugar feeds the flowers. • Top up the vase every second day with fresh water. • Remove all leaves that will be below the waterline. Sodden leaves rot and contaminate the water. • After two weeks cut the stem again and add more Jik and more sugar. • To make blooms last even longer, cut them at their necks and place them in a shallow bowl of water. • Once the flowers are at the end of their fresh life remove the petals, let them dry and use them for potpourri.

How Flower Café Works “Create whatever your heart desires in our Flower Café. We give guidelines, but there is absolute freedom to play,” says Flower. “Of course, the whole idea is to take your floral creation home with you.” Here’s the lowdown: • Book in advance so Flower Café can manage social distancing and other safety measures. • A R70 non-refundable booking fee per person secures your spot and is deductible from your floral purchases on the day. • You can either select a vase from the Flower Café collection or bring your own vase from home. • Greenery and flowers are priced per stem, allowing you the freedom to

customise your floral design and fit your budget (Their signature Tussie Mussie is always available.) • The inviting space is available to work in and come and enjoy a coffee. • WiFi is available if you want to host meetings and work parties in the space. • Private group bookings and gift vouchers are available. Flower Café is at 184 Sir Lowry Road in Woodstock, Cape Town. Secure parking is available across the road at the Woodstock Quarter. Please email vee@ petalsgroup.co.za or call 021 461 8809 to arrange a booking. Flower Café is open on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Or, to find out more, visit www.petalsgroup.co.za.

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cover story | Val de Vie

Where the

Living is Easy Inside the luxurious Val de Vie Estate

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outh Africa’s leading residential estate encapsulates luxury and comfortable family living in the picturesque Paarl-Franschhoek Valley. Dating back to 1783, the one-of-a-kind Val de Vie is rich in history and forms part of a larger World Heritage Site.

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live Modelled on French Provençal and Cape Vernacular styles, Val de Vie’s homes portray the allure of the estate’s rich history, while offering residents world-class modern living. Just some of its many appealing characteristics include elegant housing, expansive lakes, vineyards, lush polo fields, farms and beautifully landscaped gardens. Surrounded by 360-degree panoramic views and spanning 917 hectares, residents can enjoy their world-famous Pearl Valley Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course, pristine polo fields, stateof-the-art lifestyle centres, the L’Huguenot wine cellar, Fleet coffee roastery, Deli, equestrian centres, tennis courts, cricket nets, soccer fields, play parks, a boma on the banks of the Berg River and 42 km of hiking, running and cycling trails. Does it get any better?

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Val de Vie | cover story

Play As the name implies, the Pearl Valley Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course bears the stamp of the world’s preeminent golf course designer. South Africa’s Top 100 Golf Courses, the definitive golf course ranking, placed the Pearl Valley Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course as the second-best in the country for 2021. When Nicklaus opened the course in 2003, he said, “Surrounded by mountains, this is one of the most spectacular settings in which I have designed a golf course.” It was not only an endorsement but touched on the visual pleasure that adds immeasurably to how golfers experience the game. Beyond the greens and landscaping, areas of natural fynbos and lakes, the Simonsberg creates a photoperfect backdrop. The top-ranked course also presents a unique ‘personality’ from the climate in the Paarl-Franschhoek Valley, to the flow and position of its greens. Sip Bottled in a 180-year old cellar, Val de Vie’s vintages inspire occasions around celebrating life in a world-class environment. The L’Huguenot Venue & Vinoteque is home to the estate’s exclusive Val de Vie and Polo Club ranges. Inspired by the Paarl-Franschhoek Valley (or The Valley of Life as they like to call it), this

is the estate’s inspiration for producing wines of the highest quality. The ideal climate and blend of cool and warm winds have played a prominent role in the production of wines since the 1600s when French Huguenot descendants brought their sound viticulture knowledge to the region. The L’Huguenot Vinoteque is home to their exclusive Val de Vie and Polo Club ranges. The Val de Vie collection consists of sophisticated, timeless blends such as the Signature red blend ‘Valley of Life’ and the Premium red blend ‘Ryk Neethling’ as well as the ‘Cuvée de Vie’ MCC. Val de Vie’s premium Chenin Blanc launched in December 2018, is labeled ‘The Perfect Host’. Val de Vie’s Polo Club range of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay/Pinot Noir and Merlot perfectly complement the Val de Vie Estate lifestyle.

‘The Val de Vie collection consists of sophisticated, timeless blends’

A luxury wellness estate unlike any other, Val de Vie Estate offers countless ways to enjoy an active and diverse lifestyle. At Val de Vie Estate, peace of mind is priceless and the estate provides a safe and secure place for residents to call home. To find out more about this luxury estate, visit www.valdevie.co.za to find out more.

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advertorial | Ernie Els Wines

TheCabernet Mystery Block Sauvignon 1 2

Come 2023, a unique clone will be back on estate soils

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‘By that time, the soil will have rested sufficiently and restored itself for us to replant our special, unique clone back into our soils’

Ernie Els Wines | advertorial

ue to the fact that Cabernet Sauvignon is such a strong focus of Ernie Els Wines, the estate is currently growing 9 different clones of the variety on the property. These clones have been carefully selected and evaluated over the years for their quality as well as their suitability to the estate’s terroir. Unfortunately, the oldest block on the property has become infected with the leafroll virus, which is quite common in South Africa. “We do not know the exact age of this block, or even what particular clone it is, but we estimate it to have been planted around 1993. It is therefore not an easy decision to make to remove the entire block, but it is an essential step in our vineyard rejuvenation programme,” says Viticulturist, Leander Koekemoer. “We have been very impressed with the quality this block has given us over the years and have been fortunate to have had the guidance of the esteemed Professor Archer who assisted us in selecting a single vine within this block that stood out from the rest,” continues Leander.

A few years ago, shoots from this particular vine were sent to Vititec to undergo the process of eliminating the virus from this vine. “This process takes some time, but we are looking forward to 2023 when will be able to replant this same clone on the same site once more. By that time, the soil will have rested sufficiently and restored itself for us to replant our special, unique clone back into our soils,” says Leander. If you’d like to learn more about the Ernie Els Wines Cabernet Sauvignon pop into the beautiful estate for a very memorable visit. Recent renovations have transformed the winery into somewhat of an iconic symbol of the Helderberg region. And, if you’d like to learn more about each wine or order online, visit www.ernieelswines.com.

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Virtual Wine Tasting A

Six Tips to Hosting a Virtual Wine Tasting 1. Keep Numbers Small: Contact your friends and set up a suitable time that works for everyone. Four to eight people is an ideal number for a virtual tasting. Anything more than 10 and the virtual space gets a little crowded and conversations become hard to follow. Once you’ve set a date, you can send a calendar invite so that each friend has it in his or her diaries. Put aside two hours or so for the tasting. Be flexible with the timings, and let those who want to jump off early or stick around longer feel free to do so.

3. Choose a Platform: Once you’re all set up with your chosen device, it’s time to choose an application. Two of the most popular choices are Zoom and FaceTime. This is mostly because both options are very user-friendly and free. If you’ve never used either of these, there are plenty of online tutorials and videos to help you set up a group call. If just the thought of switching on a laptop has your head spinning, ask a tech-savvy son, daughter or neighbour to help out. Naturally, a glass of wine makes a good bribe (if they’re over 18).

2. Pick Your Tech: Any smartphone, tablet, or computer with a camera will do. A smartphone or tablet is easier if you want to move around during the call, but if you want to stay put at your dining room table or kitchen island, a laptop is ideal. Just be sure that your device is updated to the most recent operating system so that apps will run smoothly. Make sure your device is fully charged and keep your cables close by in case you need to boost your battery during the tasting.

4. Choose Your Wine: Next, choose wines that you’d like to taste throughout your virtual tasting. Perhaps you want to pick a couple of the same varietals or maybe the same wine from different vintages. Start with tasting 4-8 wines. You’ll want to send the wines to friends or give them a list to acquire their own a few days ahead of the tasting. The Wine-of-the-Month Club’s customer service team can help you select wines and deliver them straight to each participant’s home.

5. Have Glassware Ready: Yup, you’ll need a different glass for each wine. If they don’t match, no one will see (perhaps a bonus of a virtual tasting). Since you’re all at home and won’t have to drive anywhere afterwards you don’t have to use a spittoon (and that’s an even bigger bonus). Oh, and don’t forget to have a couple of dry crackers to help cleanse your palate in between tastings. 6. Take Notes: For a little extra fun, take notes on the wines you are tasting. Jot down things you notice while swirling and sipping your way through each wine. You can also email your friends free tasting note templates that are easy enough to find and download online. This way you can all take note of the same things as you make your way through the wines. Don’t take everything too seriously. Enjoy catching up with friends and chatting while tasting. Don’t have too many rules, as it will start to feel stiff. Let the wine and conversation flow. Don’t put pressure on yourself to host the best virtual tasting of all time. There will be tech glitches; cats in front of the screens and Marg will keep talking even tough her mic is muted. See how it unfolds and change things up as you go. Who knows, maybe this becomes a weekly or monthly social distancing get-together. And wine not?

Illustration by: Chloe Damstra

mid an ever-changing landscape, the only thing certain is that we need to get creative when it comes to doing the things we love. With a strong emphasis on staying home and social distancing still in place, virtual wine tastings are the in-thing. Thanks to the likes of Zoom and FaceTime, we can still socialise and sip wines with friends from the safety of our sanitised homes. Plus, some smart wine farms are adapting their offerings to suit our new COVID way of life. To help you out (and help you stay sane) we map out a few tips on how to host your own virtual wine tasting below. All you need is a couple of friends, a few bottles of wine, a notepad, a laptop, and you’re all set.


Five Wine Farms Offering Virtual Tastings

A Virtual Leap As a popular family-oriented destination, Leopard’s Leap boasts tasting facilities, delicious food offerings, culinary tutoring and, of course, beautiful views and grounds. Now, they invite wine lovers for an informal online introduction to the Leopard’s Leap wine range—of course from the comfort of your own home. Purchase 12 bottles for delivery in South Africa and you qualify for a free virtual tasting. Go to www.leopardsleap.co.za

If you don’t feel like organizing everything yourself, many wine farms are getting creative and offering home tasting kits as well as virtual wine tastings. Here are a few to try: Music to Our Ears Creation Wines have created virtual experiences to allow fans of the farm to enjoy a tasting in the comfort of their own homes. Choose between the Creation Virtual Tasting pack or the Creation Alchemy Tasting Kit—both of which include six 50ml samples delivered to your door. Select a Creation personal shopper to guide the wine tasting via a Zoom call; or if you opt for the Alchemy experience you will receive short videos introducing the six wines in the kit as well as a dedicated Creation Spotify playlist to fully immerse yourself in Creation’s wines. Virtual tastings start at R350. Visit: www.creationwines.com Constantia Comes to You

Steenberg Cellar has adapted to the

times with its @ Home Offering. This popular Constantia winery quickly realised that while their customers were happy to be buying their wines once again, many were missing the tasting-room experience. So Steenberg introduced three unique virtual tastings, which include mixed case deliveries of the farm’s wine, together with QR codes to videos of cellar master Elunda Basson guiding customers through the tasting. To book your virtual tasting experience, visit www.steenbergfarm.com

Customised Tastings Spoilt for choice, you can choose from La Motte’s full range of classic, premium and exclusive wines to make up your virtual wine tasting selection. Depending on the wines you choose to taste, one of the estate’s wine tasting ambassadors will customise your tasting accordingly. Order your wines online and qualify for a free virtual tasting when you order 12 bottles. Visit www.la-motte.com

Fun and Informative

Breedekloof’s Deetlefs is now offering

fun, informative and Covid-friendly online wine tastings to enjoy with your friends and family. Each participant will receive Zoom login details and 6 bottles of wine selected by the farm and delivered straight to their door. Go to www.deetlefs.com. s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R

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@throughmywineglass

Top 7 Wine influencers to follow Instagram has opened up a whole new world of winefluencers

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he Cape winelands is home to some of the world’s best wine and most beautiful wine farms. Unless you are a connoisseur, sometimes it can be overwhelming to choose the perfect wine for a special occasion or which of the many wine estates to visit when you have some time off. Having some input from those ‘in the know’ can go a long way. And if you like to look online for inspiration on the latest wine trends and what the winelands has to offer, here are a few wine influencers you should follow.

With a love for wine tourism in Cape Town, Elvina Snell Fortuin focuses on the wine, food, events, and activities in the Cape winelands. She states that she is not a wine expert and instead writes about the wine she and her friends enjoy. Growing up in the Cape Flats, where her parents didn’t drink, Elvina has come a long way and says her journey includes everything from ‘Card Bordeaux’ box wine to award winning wines. When she is not enjoying all the winelands has to offer, she is in the office working for a South African Financial Institution. Very down to earth, her posts will remind you why you first loved wine. www.throughmywineglass.co.za

@off_beet_blog Focusing mainly on creating and sharing good food, Dominque Solomon offers a glimpse into her food, wine, and travel journey through her posts. Spending a lot of time travelling around the Cape winelands and pairing wines with her dishes, her posts are perfect for the food and wine enthusiast. And, with a Wine & Spirit Education Trust Level 2 Award in Wines, she knows what she is talking about. Her Instagram feed is a feast for the eyes, and she is also an Eat Out contributor, so you know her passion for food is not just a hobby. Don’t worry; there’s something here for those of you travel enthusiasts too. www.offbeetblog.com

@simplymissjo

Simply put, Simply Miss Jo is about the great things life has to offer – in all its forms. Her posts promote what South Africa has to offer, from wine and food to beauty and fashion. It’s about life through Jonell Jozeph’s eyes. As a food and wine blogger, Jonell brings her real-life experiences to the table, erm, we mean phone screen. Diving into her world, you will find authentic experiences of her food and wine journey. www.simplymissjo.wordpress.com


SA Wine Influencers | feature

@the_wine_fox

If you’re looking for an expert guide to discovering the Cape winelands, Nicola Jane Nelson of The Wine Fox will take you on a journey showing off f ine wines, restaurants, and all the winelands has to offer. And if you like to do more than just read about an event, you can join The Wine Fox team on one of their wine tours. There’s more to wine then following the trends online; it’s all about the experience. With wine reviews, news, events, and pairings, there is something for everyone to enjoy. And the images will want to make you raise a glass and hop on the next tour bus around the vineyards. www.thewinefox.co.za

@thewinegirlcapetown In June of 2016, Leanne (aka The Wine Girl Cape Town) set out to be the first woman to visit at least 80 farms every year before her 40th birthday. That means, if all goes according to plan, Leanne will have visited 800 wine farms before celebrating the big 4-0. Leanne says her blog and Instagram profile are not so much wine-focused but more about the whole lifestyle associated with wine life in South Africa. While she loves a glass of wine, she tends to be drawn to the beautiful scenery, the friendly people and various activities involved in the winemaking process. www.thewinegirlcapetown.co.za

@leahvandeventer As a spirits journalist, consultant, and judge, Leah van Deventer’s posts showcases fantastic news and reviews on a little more than just wine. As a global cocktail-and-spirits consultant, judge, and competition convener, it goes without saying that she knows a thing or two about spirits and wine’s fun uncle, cocktails! Her posts feature great profiles on industry leading personalities, new brands on the market, bars to visit, and gorgeous imagery. You’ll get lost in her articles and inspired to start an at-home cocktail hour yourself. www.leahvandeventer.com

@food_travel_wine

Jessica McArthur’s obsession with all things wine, food, and travel is very apparent when following her on social media. Her motto is, ‘you have one life, live it!’ She believes that life is just too short for mediocre wine and bad food. Her posts are a beautiful and wellwritten collection of her own experiences that aim to inspire you to go out and try it all for yourself. If you don’t know where to start, you can contact Jessica at FTW for a tailor-made and recommended food and wine package in the Cape winelands. www.foodtravelwine.co.za

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'Various studies have concluded that wine in moderation— and red wine in particular—is an excellent defence against heart disease'

red, red WIne By DaVE BIggs

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Winter is when we drink more red wine than usual. Here’s a recap on why red wine is good for you

or many years health professionals have pondered the phenomenon they refer to as “the French paradox.” This is the curious fact that the traditional French lifestyle appears to be everything the doctors tell us to avoid, but the incidence of heart disease is far lower in France than in most overtly health-conscious countries. The French tend to eat foods high in fats and carbohydrates—paté, charcuterie, red meat, rich sauces, high cholesterol foods—and the illusion that every suave 1 8

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Frenchman has a smouldering cigarette (probably a smelly Gauloise) dangling from his lips doesn’t help matters. All this would bring on heart attacks anywhere else on earth, but the French seem almost immune to coronary problems. What’s the secret? The answer is good news for wine lovers. The French lifestyle also includes a glass of wine with every meal. Various studies have concluded that wine in moderation—and red wine in particular—is an excellent defence

against heart disease. Wine contains powerful antioxidants (one called resveratrol) that breaks down the plaque build-up in veins and arteries, which causes poor circulation and contributes to heart attacks. That same antioxidant property is said to prevent Alzheimer’s and improve memory. This should come as no surprise, considering that our brains depend on a healthy blood supply to function properly, so plaque-free blood vessels help keep us mentally alert.


1. Keeps you slim: Studies conducted at Harvard Medical School claim that resveratrol in red wine helps when it comes to losing weight–particularly in women. Researchers examined 20,000 women over 13 years and saw that those who drank two glasses of wine daily were 70% less likely to be overweight. 2. helps regulate blood sugar:

Resveratrol is also thought to control blood sugar levels in people suffering from diabetes. One study showed that subjects who took 250mg of resveratrol supplements once daily for three months had lower glucose levels in blood than those who did not. 3. reduces the risk of cancer: Regular and moderate consumption of red wine can also effectively reduce the risks of certain types of cancers such as basal cell, colon, prostrate carcinoma, and ovarian. Scientists used a dose of resveratrol on human cancer cells and found that it obstructs the key action of a cancer aiding protein. 4. reduces depression: A study carried out on middle-aged to elderly people

5. has positive effects on the digestive system: The anti-bacterial nature of

Lastly, and on the point of limiting your intake of red wine, remember that even health advice should be taken in moderation.

red wine enables it to treat stomach irritation and other digestive disorders. A 2018 study showed that polyphenols in red wine can improve the gut microbiota, contributing to a healthy gut. And, according to 2012 research, red wine compounds may also act as prebiotics, which are compounds that boost healthy gut bacteria.

Before you start dancing with glee and sharpening your corkscrew, remember the part near the beginning of this article that mentioned “a glass of wine with every meal.” A glass. Not a bottle. Part of the French paradox’s secret lies in moderation.

Illustration by: Chloe Damstra

On top of helping our bodies fight against heart disease and Alzheimer’s, the list of red wine health benefits is a long one. So, as you sip your Shiraz, here are some more facts to read on why you should be enjoying it even more.

showed that drinking moderate amounts of alcohol daily keeps away depression. A 2013 study on 5505 people over 7 years showed that those who drank between 2–7 glasses of wine each week had lower levels of depression.

Of course, when you decide to put a limit on the wine you are going to have with your meal you’re more likely to select a quality product, one that enhances the dish you’re enjoying even more. And why not? A quality wine can turn a casual meal—a crumbed pork chop, a tomato bredie, even a Hawaiian hamburger or a grilled cheese, tomato and onion sandwich—into a memorable gourmet experience.


Recipes | Nice and Nutty

Nice and nutty Flavoursome and versatile, its no wonder nuts are a welcomed addition to so many dishes

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Baked Pears with Camembert Cheese and Almonds


Nice and Nutty | recipes

Baked pears with camembert cheese and almonds Serves 4 Ingredients: 4 Rocha or Conference pears 2 (250g) Camembert wheels, diced 75g | ½ cup whole almonds, chopped 2 tbsp rosemary leaves, chopped 1 tbsp thyme leaves, chopped salt freshly ground black pepper Method: 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160° fan). Line a baking tray with parchment paper. 2. Trim the bottoms of the pears so that they stand upright on their own. Place the pears on their sides and cut crosswise at even intervals, making three

butternut and Mozambican cashew curry Serves 6 cuts in total. (Each pear should now be divided into four thick slices.) 3. Scoop out the cores and seeds from the pear slices and discard. Stuff each piece of pear with Camembert (you may not need to use all of the cheese). Sprinkle with some almonds and herbs; season with a little salt and pepper. 4. Carefully re-assemble the pears on the baking tray, standing upright in stacks. 5. Bake until the pears are tender to the tip of a knife and the cheese is melted, 20-30 min. 6. Remove from the oven and let stand briefly before serving warm.

Ingredients: 1 large onion, finely chopped oil, for frying 1½ tbsp crushed garlic 15ml (1 tbsp) cumin powder 2,5ml (½ tsp) cinnamon powder 15ml (1 tbsp) turmeric 3cm ginger, peeled and finely chopped 1,3kg butternut, cubed 1 block smoked tofu, cut into 2cm cubes 1 x 400ml tin coconut milk 700ml vegetable stock 250g roasted giant cashew nuts a handful of fresh coriander

Method: 1. Fry the onion in a little oil in a large pot on medium heat. Add the garlic and spices and stir for 1 min to release all the flavours. 2. Add the butternut, tofu, coconut milk and vegetable stock. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally until the butternut is soft, about 30 min. 3. Top with cashew nuts and fresh chopped coriander.

Butternut and Mozambican Cashew Curry

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Recipes | Nice and Nutty

Tangerine and almond sheet cake squares Serves 12 Ingredients: 225g | 1 cup unsalted butter, softened and cubed, plus 1 tbsp extra for greasing 325g | 2 ½ cups plain flour 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp salt 300g | 1 ¹/³ cups caster sugar, plus 2 tbsp extra for sprinkling 50g | ½ cup ground almonds 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp orange blossom water 250ml whole milk, at room temperature 3 large eggs, at room temperature 75g | ¹/³ cup sour cream, at room temperature 150g | 1 cup flaked almonds 4-6 tangerines, peeled and segmented Method: 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160° fan). Grease a 23 cm cake tin with 1 tbsp butter. 2. Sift the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large mixing bowl; stir in the sugar and ground almonds. 3. Add the butter, vanilla extract, orange blossom water, and 125ml milk; stir until the flour mixture is moistened, about 1 min. 4. In a separate mixing bowl, whisk together the remaining 125ml milk with the eggs and sour cream. 5. Gradually whisk the egg mixture into the moistened flour mixture until a rough batter forms, 2-3 min; it shouldn't be totally smooth. 6. Spoon and scrape the batter into the prepared cake tin. Gently rap the tin on a flat surface to help settle the batter. Evenly top with the flaked almonds and tangerine segments; sprinkle with 2 tbsp sugar. 7. Bake the cake until risen and golden on top, 30-35 min; when ready, a toothpick should come out clean from the centre. 8. Remove from the oven and let the cake cool completely in its tin, set on a wire rack. 9. To serve, carefully turn out and cut into squares. 2 2

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Tangerine and Almond Sheet Cake Squares


KOEL E N H OF’ S New 1679 Wine Range

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oelenhof Wine Cellar is situated among vineyard-covered slopes, just outside the beautiful town of Stellenbosch. Behind Koelenhof ’s gates, you’ll find the vineyards for the 1679 range situated near the cellar. stellenbosch was ‘founded’ in 1679 and is known as the Bordeaux of south Africa. Because of this, Koelenhof decided to launch their stellenbosch 1679 Wine Range to emphasise stellenbosch’s superior quality. sTEllEnBosCH 1679 THE lEgaCy 2017 (BorDEaUX BlEnD) The 1679 Legacy is about “something that happened or exists as a result of things that happened at an earlier time”. Koelenhof ’s tale starts back in 1941 when eight families were brought together. Little did they know they would be bound for generations to come. each family playing an integral role in the creation and

production of this wine range, The Legacy pays tribute to the labour and efforts put into this wine by these families in the past, the present as well as future generations. This wine is full-bodied, yet elegant and classic in style. Deep ruby red colour with blackcurrant and red berry flavours. This wine spent 24 months in new, small French oak barrels and was bottled after another few months aged in temperaturecontrolled bottle storage before Koelenhof decided to release it. Delicious now, The Legacy will be even better in 7 years. VIsIT koElEnHoF Koelenhof Wine cellar also boasts a delightful space for intimate gatherings such as birthday or anniversary celebrations. Looking to try somewhere new for your next wine tasting? Koelenhof invites newcomers and connoisseurs alike to come and enjoy the farm’s signature wine tastings. A few of Koelenhof ’s tastings

include: sorbet & Wine, chocolate & Wine, soup & Wine, as well as their Kid’s Juice Tasting. No matter your age, their friendly and helpful staff will always make you feel right at home. cheese platters and snacks are also available to enjoy alongside your wine, and the pièce de résistance? Their famous Roosterkoeke that’s freshly baked on their premises daily. Oh, and be sure to bring the whole family, as Koelenhof ’s wine farm is 100% child-friendly. To find out more, visit

www.koElEnHoF.Co.Za

Available from Wine-of-the-Month Club: 1679 ‘The Legacy’ (R569) 1679 Pinotage 2019 (R275) 1679 Chenin Blanc 2019 (R199) 1679 Cabernet Sauvignon (R390)


wine | Panel Report

Summer’s golden days are past and it’s hello to winter’s cold – a fine time for some special winter warmers By Irina von Holdt CWM

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lorious summer sunshine is now a mere memory––we basked in its golden glow then, hardly noticing, evenings saw us reaching for a jersey. Winter comes barely perceptibly at first, almost by stealth, tip-toeing upon us until that day when we close the curtains early, light the fires and cook something hearty and warming. It’s the quiet season, or is it? With long evenings and little to do, now’s the time for getting together around a noisy table and, if possible, catching up with family and friends. Now’s the time for slow cooking 2 4

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A Wine Winter’s Tale

accompanied by wines that we can take our time to taste and appreciate. So, here is a collection of wines to warm the cockles of the heart. Chardonnay Every Day If ever there was a winter-weight white this is it. Rich and flavourful, it does not even need to be too chilled to show at its best. Perfect for many pastas and white meats, heavier versions will even accompany a steak. One needs to pay attention, though, because there are many Chardonnays… “I like the diversity—some buttery ripe ones, others steely and lean,” from Winnie. Now that’s the point, you should choose carefully otherwise you may get a steely Chardonnay to go with that steak. Not so good. Clive is specific. “I like those with minerality,” he says, “There are some Robertson wines here, they have that

minerality which I adore. And I like toasty oak but, of course, it has to be in balance.” “And the different kinds of oak,” says Christine appreciatively. “They’ve handled it all so well.” “A lot of delightfully complex wines,” adds Dave. “Lots of flavours coming at me from all angles.” “Most of these are high in alcohol,” notes Greg. That translates into properly ripened grapes, always good for flavour. “I was thrilled,” says Irina. “Real quality. Real style. And the type of individuality I prize highly. So often we taste a whole bunch of wines that seem to have all come out of the same tank.” We get into a discussion about the fruit


Panel Report | wine

quality. Christine says the high quality shone through in both the wooded and unwooded wines. Broadly speaking, the flavours have fallen into two main fruit groups – stone fruits or citrus. You may find the odd melon or kiwi there, too. But you’re much more likely to find lemon, clementines, or orange marmalade with the fresh acidity that seems to give good focus. Stone fruits like yellow peach, on the other hand, give a good, fleshy character to the wine, which is equally attractive, but different in character as well as flavour. At another tasting, we single out the unoaked wines for praise. “I’m impressed by these,” says Colin. “They’re not fancy, but they’re very nice and likeable. I didn’t rate the oaked ones too highly today.” Newbie taster, Malu Lambert perks up: “I like the textures of the unwoodeds; they’re so refreshing.” Winnie sums up, “A lot of different styles. We could even do a whole meal of several courses each paired with a different Chard—from light and slender to the richer, riper styles.” See, they can even go with steak. And All That Shiraz Summing up the wines from four separate tastings, that is 80 wines, is difficult because each tasting develops a character of its own and that makes each different. At one tasting we are full of praise, at another, it’s a letdown. To make it worse, we have some ardent fans of Shiraz, so when it goes badly the disappointment in the tasting room is palpable and seems like a personal insult. Firstly, the faults. Greg notes, “Some almost overripe, some are vegetal, but mostly average.” To a serious fan, “average” is very damning. “Found a few ‘ou man gesiggie’ wines which I find unpleasant,” says Clive. “I like savoury styles, then I get excited. Where’s the pepper and the leather?”

Things improve rapidly at further tastings and we hear only praise. Malu becomes truly voluble (wine does that!). “There’s a whole spectrum here,” she says. “All those flavours—leather, black olives, iron filings, and the diverse styles. And I like the clear definition of those styles—nothing muddied here,” she says with a smile. Colin agrees. “I’ve been poorly disappointed with Shiraz,” he says. “Not so much today.” We have found wines that are pleasant, quaffable and well balanced. Christine praises the ripeness, smoke, fruit and liquorice. Claude feels there’s a lot to be said for just “lekker Shiraz” that is pleasing and easy to drink. We all agree, but also agree that surely Shiraz is capable of more, much much more? And so we come to our final tasting. “Star tasting,” from an excited Irina, normally mean with Reserve scores, is handing them out freely. “Spiced chocolate” from Clive. “Coffee adds something rather than taking anything away,” says Margaret. “Hot buttered toast,” from another excited voice. Winnie gives a more measured comment. “A nice display of what Shiraz can do,” she says. “No extracted or porty styles. Here are wines with real style.” And then… “I’m still disappointed,” says Colin. “I’m aware of the heights Shiraz can attain and many of these wines could/should be a lot better.” So the bar should be set still higher. It’s clear we are missing a number of big guns in this category, some truly Wow! wines. C’mon winemakers, help us out here. Time for Unusual Reds Now here is an oddball category that always interests us and often delivers some delightful surprises. We’re seeing some intriguing varieties from Italy – Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and newest of all, Nero d’Avola. The SA wine industry has geared up to deal with climate warming so there’s no point in looking at introducing varieties from cool northern climes. We’ll be seeing more varieties from the hotter climates surrounding the Mediterranean and that have stood the test of time. Spain’s Garnacha, known here as Grenache (via France), is being seen more and more, while Malbec (also known as Cot) from the Bordeaux region where it has all but disappeared has been here for a while and is showing well. The meme, “ABC” (anything but Chardonnay or Cabernet)

Wines Tasted by the Panel Chardonnay Wine-of-the-Month Club: Chamonix Chardonnay 2017 Also liked: Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Chardonnay 2016, Lismore Chardonnay 2016, Simonsig Chardonnay 2017, Stellenbosch Family Wines Chardonnay 2015 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: Constantia Uitsig Unwooded Chardonnay 2017, De Wet Chardonnay 2018, Dombeya Chardonnay 2017, Durbanville Hills Chardonnay 2017, Glen Carlou Quartz Stone Chardonnay 2017, Glen Carlou Unwooded Chardonnay 2018, Kranskop Chardonnay 2018, Plaisir de Merle Chardonnay 2017, Rietvallei Burger Family Chardonnay 2018, Rietvallei Classic Chardonnay 2018, Rietvallei Natural Chardonnay 2018, Signal Gun Unwooded Chardonnay 2017, Simonsvlei Chardonnay 2017, Tugela River Chardonnay 2016, Warwick Uitkyk Chardonnay 2017

Sweet Wines Wine-of-the-Month Club: Kranskop Viognier Noble Late Harvest 2017 Also liked: Delheim Spatzendreck 2017, GlenWood Noblesse 2014, Meerhof Mooistrooi Straw Wine 2018, Thelema Vin de Hez 2015 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: Angels Tears Moscato Blanc 2018, Bayede! Princess Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2017, Bosman Soet Steen 2016, De Wetshof Riesling 2017, Nederburg Heritage Heroes The Beautiful Lady Gewürztraminer 2016, Nuy Colombar 2018, Overhex Balance Semi Sweet Muscat 2018, Paul Cluver Gewürztraminer 2016, Perderberg Soft Smooth White 2018, Peter Falke FF Chardonnay 2017, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2018, Villiera Jasmine 2018, Zandvliet Muscat 2018, Zandvliet My Best Friend Semi Sweet 2018, Zevenwacht 7even Bouquet Blanc 2018


WINE | Panel Report

took hold a few years ago, too, to hurry things along. A word of advice—grapes from warmer climates tend to have thicker skins to protect the contents of the berry from the hot sun, and thicker skins mean tougher tannins. So always note tannin levels with the new reds—a good guide to your enjoyment. But let’s talk specifics. “There are more and more Grenaches,” says Claude. “Today we tasted six, but they are like six very different wines.” “Yes, I couldn’t pick up any distinctive varietal character from these,” says Irina. “But maybe it’s young vine syndrome, or just lack of experience with the variety. I think it will improve.” For older tasters, it’s strange to see Cinsaut listed among Unusual Reds, as up to about 30 years ago we had oceans of wine from this grape. The new wines are disappointing, but Clive reckons the variety should be made in Châteauneuf-style. “But there it’s always blended,” argues Irina. We decide it’s best used as a blending partner rather than a stand-alone wine. But the variety seems it has found a fan in Malu, “It’s supposed to be juicy and fruity,” she says, “and these had bounce and verve.” Clive likes Mourvèdre. “It’s great when it’s savoury or spicy. Then it’s delicious.” Christine warns about faults. “Some of these Mourvèdres are over-extracted and hard. I had eight low scores,” she says, and then adds, “but 2 6

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Unusual Reds is an EXCITING CATEGORY so keep watching the Cabernet Francs are always the stars of the show.” Here we all agree, the Cab Francs are the best. Their quality shines through and, often not far behind, are the Malbecs. So once again the Bordeaux varieties top the list. Reasons are not hard to find—both Malbec and Cab Franc are not new here, and the vineyards are mature and well established. The wines need to be made in a style that our winemakers are familiar with— firm, intense and well oaked. Add to that a classic variety, if not a top-tier classic like Cabernet Sauvignon, but certainly classic, then you’re well on your way to some very fine wine. Unusual Reds is an exciting category so keep watching—we will be seeing more varieties from Spain, Italy and even Greece or still further afield. THEM swEETs We all love a treat, something special, the cherry on the top, and that treat is most often something sweet. Yes, there are people who, for some reason or other, steer clear of sweetness. They fall into a sad little group, but most people like the odd sweet treat. The message here is a little goes a long way— along with most nice things in life, including alcohol, a little is good for you, but too much can be really bad. Remember too, some of the most iconic wines in the world are sweet—think of rare Sauternes, Tokai and ice wine. Highly respected the world over, and sought after, they command huge prices and moreover are able to age almost indefinitely. So never look down on the sweeties, they’re magic. Fortunately, South Africa is well endowed with sweet wines—from the fabled Constantias of old, right down to today’s communion or nagmaalwyn, we have a long history and love affair with sweet wine. Our brilliant sunshine plumps up the sugars in the grapes and allows us to make the richest, sweetest nectars in the world. The good news is that because it’s so easy here the wines are a steal, coming in at the most affordable prices. So it’s win-win all the way. So what does the picky panel think? Christine is quick off the mark. “When the sugars get to over 20 grams per litre they come into their own.”

Wines TasTed by The Panel shiraZ Wine-of-the-Month Club: Dunstone Stones in the Sun Syrah 2017 also liked: Bader & Walter Shiraz 2015, Dornier Siren Syrah 2016, Dunstone Shiraz 2016, Waverley Hills CW Reserve Shiraz 2015 Wines listed in alphabetiCal order: Bizoe Estalét Syrah 2015, Bruce Jack Shiraz 2018, Fable Mountain Shiraz 2014, Glen Carlou Shiraz 2015, Glenelly Shiraz 2012, Glenelly Shiraz 2013, Leopard's Leap Shiraz 2016, Marklew Shiraz 2017, Muratie Ronnie Melck Shiraz 2016, Ormonde Barrel Selected Shiraz 2014, Simonsig Mr Borio Shiraz 2016, Van Loveren Christina Reserve Shiraz 2016, Van Loveren Tangled Tree Spicy Shiraz 2017, Vergenoegd Low Shiraz 2015, Vondeling Baldrick Shiraz 2017

unusual reds Wine-of-the-Month Club: Rietvallei JMB Cabernet Franc 2015 also liked: Bushmanspad Cabernet Franc 2015, Bushmanspad Malbec 2017, Hillcrest Saartjie Single Vineyard 2017, Whalehaven Cabernet Franc 2012 Wines listed in alphabetiCal order: Bosman Twyfeling Cinsault 2016, B Vintners Black Bream Pinot Noir 2016, De Krans Touriga Nacional 2017, Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Franc 2016, Hillcrest Saartjie Single Vineyard 2017, Idiom Heritage Series Rosso 2016, Illimis Cinsault 2016, KWV The Mentors Grenache Noir 2015, Mount Rozier The Red Snapper 2018, Old Road Pardonnez Moi 2018, Stellenrust Cabernet Franc 2015, Tanagra Cabernet Franc 2016, Tierhoek Grenache 2016, Van Loveren Blue Velvet Pinot Noir 2017, Whalehaven Cabernet Franc 2013


Panel Report | wine

There’ll be a golden harvest after the pandemic Hear, hear! Many of our cheaper off-dry and Late Harvest wines are made simply by adding sugar to dry white wines. The sugar comes in the form of ‘sweet reserve’, a concentrated grape syrup specifically made for this purpose. Only sweeteners made from grapes are allowed to be used for wine, so not so much as a single crystal of Huletts Soft Brown. Unfortunately, the addition of sweet reserve bombs out natural aromas along the way. At higher sugar levels legislation does not allow any addition of sweeteners so all the sweetness must come directly from those grapes used to make the wine— properly sun-ripened grapes. The difference between the two is major. Winnie speaks up. “I like the Rieslings,” she says, “they are the most balanced wines.” “And the Gewürztraminers,” opines

Christine. Malu chimes in: “It’s the aromatic varieties that are the best.” “But today the muscats (among the most aromatic of wines) are very disappointing and I always look forward to them,” grumbles Irina. Even David, wellknown as a lover of all sweeties, looks crestfallen as he says, “Mostly boring, nice Gewürz and lovely marmalade Chenin, but otherwise boring.” Now, this is serious—disappointing sweet wines? It doesn’t happen, can’t happen. We decide it must have been a casualty of Covid-19 and we should wait it out. There’ll be a golden harvest after the pandemic. Can’t wait. To purchase these wines and more, head to our website

www.wineofthemonth.co.za

Our Pride & Joy The Story of Bellevue 1953 Pinotage

In 1953, together with Paul Sauer from Kanonkop, PK Morkel was one of the first few farmers to plant Pinotage on a commercial scale. His bold step paid off, when Bellevue’s Pinotage was awarded the Genl. Smuts Trophy in 1959, becoming the best young wine in the South African National Young Wine Show. To salute PK Morkel’s vision, Bellevue takes utmost care of the 1953 Pinotage block which is still in full production. It remains the pride and joy of Bellevue and a very special wine is made from this block, called “The 1953” Pinotage.

“The 1953” Pinotage shows maraschino cherry and ripe plum flavours on the nose complemented by a silk tannin structure and long, lingering finish. Try the 2017 vintage 1953 Pinotage in the tasting room at Bellevue Wine Estate on Bottelary Road.

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We live in the Karoo where winter can be extremely cold. Is there a simple recipe for making a warming Glühwein that we could enjoy by the fireside to cheer up the chilly winter evenings? Yes, indeed there is. A bottle of inexpensive red wine should help to warm the cockles on even the chilliest winters evening. Try this recipe. Place two cups of hot water and one cup of brown sugar in a saucepan and bring it to the boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Now add three sticks of cinnamon, three whole cloves and half a teaspoon of grated nutmeg to the liquid. Finally, add the bottle of red wine and heat it all to almost boiling temperature, stirring gently. Try not to let it boil, as that drives off the alcohol, which is part of the warming magic, then strain it into a jug and serve in coffee mugs.

Your Wine FAQs I don’t have a proper wine cellar, as I live in a modest suburban house, but I would like to keep a small stock of wine on hand. What is the best temperature at which to store wine, and how can I achieve this? The ideal temperature for wine storage is about 15 °C. More important, though, is that it should be kept at a constant temperature. Wine, like any liquid, expands when it is warmed, which can result in some of the wine being forced out past the cork. When the wine cools it contracts, drawing air into the bottle. For practical purposes store the wine in a well-insulated cupboard, preferably away from an outside wall, and keep it closed, except when replacing or removing wine. You could add insulation to the cupboard by lining it with styrofoam sheets. 2 8

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your Wine Questions answered Is there a simple recipe to make Glühwein? What is the best temperature to store wine? Why are we given “drink by” dates with our wines? Is it really necessary for a wine to breathe? Why are we given “drink by...” dates with the wines we receive from the Wine-of-the-Month Club? Surely once we have paid for a wine we are entitled to drink it whenever we want. Indeed you are. But wine is a constantly changing commodity. It can be quite rough and acidic at first, getting steadily smoother with time, then becoming flat and dull, and finally degenerating into bad vinegar. The “drink by” dates are merely guidelines to enable you to enjoy your wines while they are at their best.

Some wine lovers insist that red wine should be allowed to “breathe” for a while after the cork is pulled. Is this really necessary and for how long should it breathe? Actually, no. The tiny surface area of the wine in the neck of the bottle is too small to make a difference during the brief time you wait for it to “breathe.” The wine receives enough aeration during the pouring. If, however, you enjoy a moment of breathless anticipation before taking that first delicious sip, then by all means let it breathe, burp or snort to its heart’s content. Frankly, we believe this is just a waste of good drinking time.


ConnoiSSeur’S

CHoiCe A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

1. Meerlust Chardonnay 2019 (Price r280) Very bright, polished platinum with green hue. Complex nose with pear, citrus and floral notes developing into lemon cream, oatmeal and marzipan. Medium-bodied palate, retains citrus fruit flavours and crisp acidity. Remains vivacious and fresh on the finish with clean citrus fruit and stony minerality. The wine has a long, very pleasant lingering finish. Cellar up to 6 years. PAIRING: Grilled fish.

3. Meerlust Red 2019 (Price r227) Weather vagaries and Meerlust’s exacting quality requirements determine that not every vintage is worthy of our flagship red blend Rubicon. Thus is born, in rare years, our collector’s Meerlust Red 2019. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot aged in French oak for 17 months. Cellar for 8-10 years. PAIRING: Venison, game, pot roast and noble cheese.

5. Meerlust Rubicon 2017 (Price r455) Very deep, youthful colour, and intense almost purple hue. Quintessential Rubicon nose with violets, ripe plum, cedarwood, fennel and intense spiciness. Liquorice note also evident on the nose. The palate is full-bodied, structured but packed with fresh dark fruit and rounded, linear tannins. Cellar for 15-30 years. PAIRING: Lamb, beef, venison and poultry

2. Anthonij Rupert Optima 2017 (Price r209) Dark fruits and spice on the nose. Cassis, blueberry, violet, touches of cedar, cocoa and tobacco leaf mouthfeel. The palate is soft and spicy with a velvety texture and powdery fine tannins. Rich, rounded and refined, softly appealing and structured. Cellar for 10-15 years. PAIRING: Fillet with mustard and brandy sauce.

4. Delaire Graff Sunrise Brut MCC NV (Price r395) Green-tinged and pale lemon yellow in colour, it displays a fine and integrated mousse with aromas of fresh gooseberry on the nose with citrus notes of lime and grapefruit. The palate is delicate yet complex with subtle hints of vanilla. PAIRING: Biscuit topped chicken potpies, Tandoori kebabs or smoked salmon blinis.

6. Meerlust Merlot 2016 (Price r335) The dark fruit and opulence of the wine is immediately apparent. Intense dark brambly fruit on the nose, mulberry, liquorice and plum with hints of dark chocolate and spice. Medium-full bodied palate with refreshing acidity, structured yet silky tannins. There is a core of juiciness, opulence and richness. Cellar up to 12 years. PAIRING: Red meats, game and strong cheeses. sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR

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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

7. Groot Constantia Lady of Abundance 2018 (Price r229) This new blend shows beautiful complexity. Ripe plum and red cherry flavours combine with a hint of fennel and careful use of oak. The variety of fruit follows on the palate and is framed by a fine tannin structure. PAIRING: Rare roast beef with mustard and garlic dressing and roast vegetables, or flame grilled venison and grilled root vegetables.

10. Groot Constantia Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Price r259) The nose shows layers of ripe black fruit with a hint of dark chocolate and Cape fynbos. The careful use of French oak adds a touch of vanilla and cinnamon to the wine. The ripe black fruit and oak flavours follows on the palate. PAIRING: Thin slices of rare roast sirloin in a red wine sauce or a beef espetada.

13. Warwick Trilogy 2013 (Price r559) Deep garnet in colour, with a ruby red rim. Aromas of cassis, lavender, cedarwood and cigar box on the first approach. As the wine breaths it shows more crème de cassis and black berries. Cellar for 5-10 years. PAIRING: Slowroasted lamb shank with creamy leak and broad bean mash.

8. Hillcrest Saartjie Malbec 2019 (Price r235) Complex flavours of black cherry and plums. There are hints of spice on the palate and lovely floral notes coming through on the nose. This is a wellbalanced wine with accessible supple tannins. Cellar for 5-7 years. PAIRING: Beef, lamb and poultry dishes.

11. Stellekaya Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Price r195) Intense, full bodied wine with cedar, blackcurrants and hints of cranberries. Well-balanced showing characters of sweet fruits and toastiness. The balance between fruit, acidity and wood character is good, ensuring long term cellaring. Cellar for 8-10 years. PAIRING: Slowroasted leg of lamb, beef short ribs or porcini mushroom risotto.

14. Warwick Professor Black Pitch Black 2017 (Price r199) The palate is rich and textured with fine grained tannins and a bright and piercing freshness delivered by the unwooded Cinsault component. The finish is dark and broody with concentration and a lingering aftertaste. drink now or up to 10 years. PAIRING: Classic roast lamb or slow-cooked oxtail.

9. Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Price r485) A perfumed nose filled with notes of blackcurrants, fennel, cigar box, tea leaf and “fynbos” shrub. The palate is delicate and fresh. Grainy tannins complement the earthy profile, with subtle hints of liquorice on the lengthy finish. Cellar for 10-15 years. PAIRING: Steak, slow-cooked venison, braised beef short ribs or rosemary lamb shanks.

12. Stellekaya Hercules 2019 (Price r149 This wine shows rich concentrated flavours of red cherries and raspberries that is beautifully complemented by aromas of tomato leaves, tobacco, cloves and cracked pepper. Vibrant acidity with a smooth a soft palate with a savoury finish. drink now. PAIRING: Fresh Mediterranean foods such as antipastas or veal with Parmesan shavings and truffle oil.

15. Warwick Three Cape Ladies 2017 (Price r175) Dark and brooding nose of black berries and cherry compote on the nose with a hint of rosemary. The palate is rich and textured with bright red fruits and strong tannins, cigar box and dark chocolate on the finish. Cellar for up to 20 years. PAIRING: Classic roast lamb or slow-cooked oxtail.

‘Rich concentrated flavours of red cherries and raspberries’ 3 0

sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR


Connoisseur’s Choice | Wine

Did you know? 16. Waverley Hills SMV 2015 (Price R192) Garnet-tinged mid ruby; aromas of Christmas cake, red and black berries and a hint of leather. Nicely matured, oak subtle and integrated with black cherry, liquorice and the freshness of cranberry. A poised, stylish red wine. Cellar for 10-12 years. PAIRING: A good meaty Greek moussaka, garlic and rosemary-scented roast leg of Karroo lamb or Parmesan-crusted lamb cutlets.

You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 www.wineofthemonth.co.za

‘Complex nose with pear, citrus and floral notes developing into lemon cream, oatmeal and marzipan’ To purchase these wines and more, head to our website

www.wineofthemonth.co.za

TH E H UNT E R STELLEKAYA’S ORION 2016 is inspired by the constellation Orion whose brightest star is the red giant called Betelgeuse, one thousand times larger then our sun. Opulent, complex, and structured. This Bordeaux-styled blend has a velvety richness that coats the mouth in concentrated flavours of dark fruit, violet perfume, and sweet spice. A typical dry yet integrated tannin structure with a lingering dark berry finish. Serve this wine alongside oxtail stew or lamb shank on wilted spinach and mashed potato.

WWW.STELLEKAYA.COM SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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It’s All in THE PRICE The SECRET INGREDIENT to good WINE by Dave Biggs

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Illustration by: Chloe Damstra

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well-established winemaker friend of mine created a superb red blend, which his fellow vintners declared was one of the best he had ever made. The grapes, picked at optimum ripeness, came from ancient vineyards clinging to the steep slopes of the mountain. A portion of the blend was stored in new oak barrels and the final blend was the result of hours of critical tasting and tweaking. A Canadian wine merchant on a serious buying visit tasted the wine and declared it to be one of the best Cape wines he had ever experienced. “I get subtle hints of blackberries and a waft of understated mocha, black plums, soft tannic grip, all in perfect harmony and supported on a bed of clean modest oak,” he said. “One of your best vintages ever.” He immediately signed an order for 1000 cases, saying: “Whatever the price, I want that wine.” His order was bottled and dressed in an exclusive label, specially designed for his chain of Canadian wine stores. It wasn’t cheap. I believe it sells for the Canadian dollar equivalent of about R600 a bottle. I am told it is offered only in selected, very upmarket restaurants, or saved for special occasions like birthdays or wedding anniversaries. When the Canadian order had been shipped the winemaker was left with 40 surplus cases of the fine wine. That’s too much for personal consumption but not enough to justify mounting a separate marketing campaign. What do you do with 40 cases of exceptionally fine wine? Being a generous man (he was, after all, a winemaker) he told family members and friends that he had “a few

cases of surplus wine if you’re interested. It’s unlabelled and I’m getting rid of it for R50 a bottle.” So a small group of lucky people bought a few cases, sampled the wine and declared it “pretty good value, actually,” and served it at their braais or with sliced biltong while watching football on TV. Good, easy-drinking, everyday plonk, they said, unaware that the same wine was fetching R600 a bottle in Canada. I poured a glass for a neighbour one evening and he took a gulp. “Not bad, “he declared. “I normally drink Chateau Libertas, but this is every bit as good.” So what are we to think of this excellent red blend? Halfway around the world it is served by white-

gloved waiters and sipped by wealthy connoisseurs with reverend appreciation. Meanwhile back home it is being quaffed casually around the barbecue and rated “as good as Chateau Libertas.” So what is the reality of this wine? Call me a cynic if you like, but I am beginning to suspect that one of the key ingredients of any great blend may not be any particular grape variety or the location of the vineyard. It may not be an exceptional growing season or rainfall pattern. Maybe that key ingredient is actually the price ticket. Could that be the one factor that determines whether the wine is destined for the banqueting table or the backyard barbecue? Would your Tassies taste better if you paid R200 a bottle for it?


W W W. O U D E C O M PA G N I E S . C O M

FROM THE HISTORICAL TERROIR,

COMEs sUPERB WINEs The name Compagnies Wijn stems from the historical Verenigde Oost Indiese Compagnie (Dutch East India Company) who started an outpost in 1699 in the beautiful Tulbagh Valley. The wines are produced and bottled by the Swanepoel family on their farm Oude Compagnies Post. We offer a wine tasting and tour experience with a view like never before. Our tasting room is open Monday to Sunday, 10am-4pm. OUDE COMPAGNIES POST, TWEE JONGE GEZELLEN ROAD, TULBAGH, 6820 | DiRK SwanePoeL (winemaKeR): 076 013 8613 OR SWANEPOEL@COMPAGNIES.CO.ZA


ADVerToriAL | Marklew

Handcrafted with PASSION & PATIENCE

Marklew Family Wines are HANDCRAFTED in LIMITED, HIGH QUALITY batches in the gravitational cellar. With its BOUTIQUE CELLAR and gracious 18th century Cape Georgian Homestead, which features on the bottle label, the farm is a BEAUTIFUL and PRECIOUS PIECE OF HISTORY.

CO NTACT DE TAILS 021 884 4411 | wine@marklew.co.za De Goede Sukses, Klapmuts Road (R44) www.marklew.co.za 4

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

PRIVAT E TAST IN G S open by appointment only - We look forward to welcoming you for a private wine tasting and memorable tour of our unique boutique cellar.

BUY OUR WINE ONLINE www.MarklEw.Co.Za


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