BUILDING
OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Classic Deck, Patio & Garden Projects That Will Last a Lifetime
Edited by
CHAD McCLUNG
Contents Chairs & Tables
The Haycock Adirondack.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Classic Adirondack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Adirondack Table & Footstool. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Outdoor Table & Benches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 High-Top Patio Chair. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 High-Top Patio Table. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Octagonal Picnic Table. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Benches Adirondack Glider. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Easy-Breezy Porch Swing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Build a Bench. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Garden Bench.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Garden Potting Bench.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Garden Arbor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Arbor Gate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Garden Obelisk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Wood & Finishing How Good Is Plastic Wood?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Wood vs. Wild.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Outdoor Finishes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Restoring Outdoor Projects. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Contributors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
CHAIRS & TABLES
The Haycock Adirondack
The Haycock Adirondack A modern tweak to a classic design marries comfort and style. By Paul Anthony and Ken Burton
4
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
The Haycock Adirondack
T
CHAIRS & TABLES
he Adirondack chair is
tapered configuration of the seat and
synonymous with the best of
arms. The seat’s shape mimics the
summer: You know, relaxing
natural splay of relaxed legs, while
in the shade with friends and family,
the arms keep elbows comfortably
or simply sittin’ back on a warm
close to the body. Also, the back
evening with a drink in hand. These
splats angle rearward to create a
iconic chairs, with rear legs that
slight curvature for your back, and
lean forward to become part of the
include a release gap for your spine.
seat structure, come in many forms,
The overall effect is that of your
and are made of everything from
body nestling into the chair. Nice.
construction lumber to injection-
Having few square corners, this
molded plastic. But some Adirondack
project involves a fair amount of cut-
chairs aren’t that comfortable.
to-fit work, which makes the build
Others are so deep and low that
enjoyably challenging. You’ll see. We
they’re hard to get out of. Many are
built ours from thermally modified
huge, heavy, and difficult to move.
poplar for durability and light weight.
That’s why we took notice of this design by Haycock Township,
Other good outdoor woods include cedar, cypress, and mahogany.
PA-based architect and furniture maker Ric Hanisch. Its curved and tapered geometry combines ergonomics and style to create a chair that invites relaxation but that sits high enough to easily rise from. It’s comfortable, compact, and portable enough to move around easily. The comfort lies partially in the outwardly
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
5
CHAIRS & TABLES
Classic Adirondack
Classic Adirondack The inclined seat and wide armrests make this iconic design the most comfortable chair in the great outdoors. By Lori Mossor
T
he Adirondack chair
often used in paneling and decks. I
symbolizes relaxation
will be painting my chairs in some
and the onset of summer
fun summer colors, but you can
weather. With its deeply angled back
also get a beautiful natural-wood
and wide armrests, it conjures up
finish by using an exterior varnish.
images of vacationing, reading for
Other options include staining or
pleasure, and ice-cold drinks. There’s
just letting your chair naturally
no better time than now to build a
weather to gray over time.
few of these classic outdoor chairs.
14
If you’re going au naturel, consider
Long-lasting cypress is a perfect
springing for teak. It’s expensive but
wood for this project. It is resistant
absolutely gorgeous and a top choice
to decay and insects; in fact, it’s
for high-end outdoor furniture.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Classic Adirondack
CHAIRS & TABLES
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
15
CHAIRS & TABLES
Adirondack Table & Footstool
Adirondack Table & Footstool These matching pieces will give your feet a break and keep your favorite beverage close at hand. By Bill Sands
Y
ou’ve made an Adirondack chair and would like
to complement it with a matching table and footstool. Well, you’re in luck—see the easy-to-build pieces shown here. Using 3/4"-thick milled cedar, I’ll show you how to make the table first, and then the footstool.
24
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Adirondack Table & Footstool
CHAIRS & TABLES
Figure 1: Table Exploded View 3/8" cherry plug #8 × 1-1/2" flathead screw F
#8 × 2" flathead screw
3/8"
Rabbet, 3/8" deep 2-1/2" dado, 3/8" deep
5" 2-1/2" dado, 3/8" deep
D
G
#8 × 1-1/2" flathead screw
H 2-1/2" B
E
C 10" 1"
I
#8 × 2-1/2" flathead screw
1/4" × 1-1/2" dowel Rabbet, 3/8" deep
Table
1/4" × 1-3/4" dowel A
Start with the leg assemblies 1. Mill enough 3/4" stock for the table.
4. Cut the blanks for the slat
dadoes. Now, switch to a standard
(See the Cut List.) Use a wood that
supports (B) to 2-1/2" × 18-3/8".
saw blade, and rip the spacer to width
resists rot and decay such as redwood,
Now, cut the blanks for the
using the resulting dimension.
cedar, or cypress. I used cedar.
uprights (C) to 3-1/2" × 19-3/4". TIP: When working with cedar, you’ll
2. Copy and enlarge the table foot
5. To make the half–lap joints, you
likely find a lot of knots. Buy extra
half pattern (Figure 3). Cut it out
need a dado set, sacrificial miter
stock in order to use only the clearest
and use it to make a whole full-
gauge extension fence, stop, and
wood to maximize structural integrity.
sized foot template on a 6-1/2" ×
spacer block (Figure 1). The spacer
18-3/8" piece of 1/2"-thick plywood,
block—precisely made—helps
6. Reinstall the 3/4" dado set, and
bandsawing the piece to shape
establish the dado widths in the
add a sacrificial extension fence to
and sanding to the cutline.
feet (A) and slat supports (B). First,
your miter gauge. Now, using two
crosscut the spacer block to 4" long.
scrap pieces of the 3/4" milled stock,
3. Joint the edges of the planed
To establish the width of the spacer
raise the dado set to slightly less
boards from Step 1. Now, lay the
block, temporarily install your 3/4"
than 3/8". Cut rabbets on the ends
bottom edge of the template flush
dado set, and measure its exact
of the two test pieces, and check
with a jointed edge and in a knot-
width. Subtract that dimension from
for a flush fit using your finger to
free section. Trace out two feet (A).
3-1/2"—the distance from your saw
detect any unevenness (Photo A).
Crosscut the board sections oversized
fence to the outside of the dado set
Raise the blade as needed to sneak
that contain the feet outlines.
once your saw is set up to cut the
up on a perfect half-lap joint.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
25
CHAIRS & TABLES
Outdoor Table & Benches
Outdoor Table & Benches This sturdy-but-stylish design is perfect for dining alfresco. By Ken Burton
T
here are few things that
the elements and accommodate
compare with the simple
the kind of extreme movement
joy of sitting down for
that wood encounters outdoors.
a nice meal outdoors with the
To suit the bill, I designed the
sun shining and a gentle breeze
top to allow a variety of seating
blowing. While this alfresco dining
arrangements (some requiring extra
set can’t do a lot to guarantee
chairs in addition to the benches
you the perfect weather, it does
shown here) while incorporating
provide a great place to enjoy it.
gentle curves and inward slanting
When my client approached me
32
legs to provide comfort and a touch
with this commission, the goal was to
of style. To ensure durability, I
design a dining table and bench set
used naturally weather-resistant
that would accommodate up to eight
cedar, joining the parts with strong,
people without appearing oversized
but easily made “loose” tenons
or undersized. She wanted something
fixed in place with waterproof
with the kind of subtle grace that
glue. Topping all this off with
is usually lacking in commercial
a tough finish guarantees that
outdoor furniture, and made of
this furniture will be part of the
material that would withstand
family for a long time to come.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Outdoor Table & Benches
CHAIRS & TABLES
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
33
High-Top Patio Chair
CHAIRS & TABLES
High-Top Patio Chair This comfortable seating uses simple and super-strong loose-tenon joinery. By Chris Spoerer
I
designed these bar-height chairs with comfort in mind. They are wide and deep,
with contoured armrests and stretchers to rest your feet. As with the matching table (p. 49), I relied on loose-tenon joinery. This technique ensures solid construction and streamlines the assembly process: cut the parts, make your mortises, and then piece the chairs together. Reclaimed cypress is my wood of choice for these chairs. If you already have a bar or other high-top table, simply modify the length of the legs to fit your existing piece.
Order of Work 1. Make the legs and stretchers. 2. Cut mortises in the legs and stretchers. 3. Fit the back slats, then dry-fit the frame. 4. Make the armrests and cut the armrest mortises. 5. Assemble the chair and install the seat.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
43
CHAIRS & TABLES
High-Top Patio Chair
Figure 1: Exploded View
2" × 1/2" mortise, 1/2" deep
Back slat 1/2" × 2" × 23-1/4"
Back leg 1-1/2" × 3-1/4" × 46" (See pattern, Figure 2)
Dry-fit armrest to locate mortise.
E
A
Front leg 1-1/2" × 2" × 38"
F
C
Cleat 3/4" × 1" × 22"
B D
Side stretcher 1-1/2" × 2-1/2" × 18"
Seat slat 3/4" × 2-1/2" × 18"
D C Front & rear stretcher 1-1/2" × 2-1/2" × 22-1/4"
NOTE: Use 10mm × 50mm tenons in the stretchers and 8mm × 50mm tenons in the arm rests.
44
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Arm rest 1-1/2" × 3" × 23"
High-Top Patio Table
CHAIRS & TABLES
High-Top Patio Table Build a matching bar-height table to create a beautiful and durable dining set. By Chris Spoerer
M
ost outdoor furniture falls into one of two categories: cheap junk that’s lucky to
make it to the following spring; and better-built furnishings that cost as much as a summer cottage. But if you’re a woodworker, you don’t need to settle for poor quality, or pay a fortune to enjoy outdoor furniture that’s beautiful and durable. The bar-height table I’m building
here is the centerpiece of a patio set that includes chairs (p. 43). I made the entire set from reclaimed cypress, which has good dimensional stability along with excellent resistance to rot and insect damage. Other good “outdoor” woods include cedar, white oak, teak, and ipe, which is sometimes used as outdoor decking. Without altering the design or joinery details, you can adjust the dimensions of this table to suit available material. For example, two-by stock can substitute for the 8/4 lumber I used to make the tabletop frame and rails for the base.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
49
CHAIRS & TABLES
High-Top Patio Table
Figure 1: Exploded View
Loose tenons for the top, through tenons for the base
Section Detail
Wooden outdoor furniture needs
B
strong joinery. That’s why my patio
A
set goes together with loose and through tenon joints, assembled with
because it’s fast, simple, and accurate. If you’ve been thinking of buying
C E
Titebond II. I used my Festool Domino to make all the loose tenon mortises,
Slat
Leg
Upper rail
Mill slat stock to 3/4" × 3-1/2", and then cut each slat to fit frame.
Use 1/4" spacers to set slat spacing.
Frame piece 1-1/2" × 6-1/4" × 24-9/16"
this tool, here’s your excuse. But if you don’t own one yet, don’t worry. You can plunge-rout the mortises. B A
Rail Details The table’s base is made by joining upper and lower rail assemblies together with four identical legs. The mortises and center lap joints are identical in
Tenon 1/4" × 1/2" long, centered 8mm × 50mm Dominos
C
Upper rail 2" × 2-1/2" × 39"
upper and lower rails. The upper rail assembly requires end laps to be cut so that these rails can nest into the tabletop frame.
Tenon 1" × 2" × 2"
Chamfer 3/4"
Through mortise 1" × 2"
#8 × 2" FH wood screw
Leg 2" × 2-1/2" × 40-1/4"
E
Order of Work 1. Make the mitered frame
Tenon 1" × 2" × 2"
for the tabletop. 2. Cut the top slats, then
Lower rail 2" × 2-1/2" × 42"
assemble the top. 3. Shape the top to its final round form.
Leg leveler
D
4. Make the upper and Cut half-laps to join rails.
lower rail assemblies. 5. Make the legs and assemble the table.
50
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
6-3/4" Chamfer edges after assembly.
CHAIRS & TABLES
Octagonal Picnic Table
Octagonal Picnic Table This easy-to-build design creates the ultimate outdoor dining spot for the entire family. By Bill Sands
F
amily members and friends
diners from intense sunlight. The
will enjoy the good times
chevron-shaped benches attached
around this accommodating
to the cross supports allow for
outdoor project that seats up to
easy-access seating, unlike standard
eight happy diners. There’s nothing
picnic table designs, which force you
tricky about the construction.
to climb over the seats to sit down.
Plugged exterior-grade screws and
56
waterproof glue bond the 2× parts
NOTE: To protect against rot and
together, guaranteeing years of use.
insects, I used western red cedar. Other
A hole at the tabletop’s center allows
outdoor wood choices include redwood,
you to insert an umbrella to shield
cypress, and pressure-treated pine.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Octagonal Picnic Table
CHAIRS & TABLES
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
57
BENCHES
Adirondack Glider
Adirondack Glider Rock the day away in your favorite outdoor spot with this American classic. By Robert J. Settich
T
66
here’s a reason the
glide through a summer evening
Adirondack chair is the
with a companion by your side.
most popular spot to
Because I used poplar, which is
relax in the great outdoors. Its
prone to rot outdoors, I protected
angled back and wide armrests
the wood with two coats of primer
are designed to take the load off
and two coats of exterior paint. For a
your feet while your body relaxes
clear wood look, go with rot-resistant
into the calm of summer. The only
cedar, cypress, or other exterior wood,
problem with an Adirondack chair
and apply a clear UV (ultraviolet)
is that you’re chilling solo and not
resistant finish. Go with exterior
snuggled next to your loved one.
screws and glue to guarantee long-
With this expanded take on the
lasting joints. Use the patterns to
American classic, you can now
help you make the shaped parts.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Adirondack Glider
BENCHES
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
67
Easy-Breezy Porch Swing
BENCHES
Easy-Breezy Porch Swing This simple-to-build project will be your go-to spot to sit and watch the world pass by. By Jim Harrold
D
uring the past two centuries, the country has witnessed porches come and go, and
return again, for reasons of nostalgia and the pure love of sitting outdoors. And while benches, rockers, and wicker chairs help you relax in the open air, nothing offers more comfort than a porch swing. Indeed, it’s as American as apple pie. This traditional design, made from
weather-resistant cypress, features a contoured seat and wide armrests for maximum relaxation. The seat support rails are extended beyond the armrests to keep the chains out of “arms” way. The porch swing hardware provides springs that offer a cushiony ride as you glide to and fro. Err on the side of caution and purchase springs and chains that can bear more weight than you think you’ll use, so there’s no need to
NOTE: Our off-the-rack cypress measured .83" thick (a hair over 1-3/16"). Rather
worry if an unexpected visitor hops
than needlessly feed wood to our planer, we used the stock as is. The extra
on. Be sure to securely attach the
thickness gave the seat and back assembly a little more heft, even though it did
hardware not only to the swing, but
throw off a few of the measurements. If you decide to build this project from a
also the studs in the porch ceiling.
harder wood, such as white oak or mahogany, you can use 3/4"-thick stock.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
79
BENCHES
Easy-Breezy Porch Swing
Figure 1: Exploded View Half-Lap Detail
2" stainless steel deck screw
3/8" plugs
3-1/2" 48"
B B
3/8" roundover
4-1/2"
4"
Half-lap on inside face
E E B
A A
Half-lap on outside face
B
C C
18o
3/8" spacing
2"
3/8" roundover 2" stainless steel deck screws
4"
18o
D D
B B
FF
1"
2-1/4" quick-link 3/8 × 4" eyebolt
1-1/4" stainless steel deck screws
3/8" nut and washer
H H
3/8" roundover
G G
A A 3/8" hole
3-1/2" 3/8" roundover
66"
Overall dimensions: 66" W × 30-1/4" D × 27-1/4" H
II
3" stainless steel deck screw
1-5/8" R=5" 3-1/2" 2"
Start with the seat/back assemblies 1. Rip a 6’-long board to 4" wide for
seat and back supports (A, B) (half-lap
of the scribed line. Using two pieces
detail, Figure 1). To find the shoulder
of scrap, make a test cut on the ends
line, lay one piece on top of the other,
and check the fit. Continue raising
the seat supports (A) and a 7'-long
so that the mitered end of the top
the blade and retesting the cut until
board to 3-1/2" for the back supports
board is flush with the edge of the
the stock faces are flush with each
(B). Cut each board into three equal
other, and draw on the bottom board.
other and there is no offset between
lengths. (They are intentionally
Rearrange the two boards so that
the two. Now cut the half-laps on
left a little long. You’ll cut them to
the bottom board is on top and mark
the seat (A) and back (B) supports
final length after joining the two
the other shoulder. Set a marking
(Photo A). Clean up the half-lap
together.) Set your table saw’s miter
gauge to one-half the thickness of
rabbets with a sanding block.
gauge to 18° and cut one end of
your stock and scribe a line along
each seat and back support piece.
the edges and ends of both pieces.
4. Apply exterior glue to the mating half-laps, and then clamp
2. Lay out the locations of the half-
3. Outfit your table saw with a 3/4"
the pairs together to make three seat/
lap joints on the angled ends of the
dado set. Adjust the height just shy
back assemblies (A/B). Let cure.
80
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Build a Bench
BENCHES
Build a Bench A solid, simple bench made from two 2 × 10s offers the perfect place to sit. By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
S
ome woodworkers turn up
I’m betting that a few woodworkers
Order of Work
their noses at 2× lumber, but
may reconsider home center stock.
1. Mill the wood.
Despite its simplicity, this seat
2. Build the jigs.
it’s a great choice for beginners
3. Rout the mortises and
and for experienced woodworkers
is surprisingly sturdy. Mortise-and-
who want to enjoy a weekend in
tenon construction and exterior-
the shop. Cypress and cedar are
grade hardware create a base that’s
4. Cut legs to final shape.
nice, but considering that the pine
able to withstand almost anything
5. Dado the rails.
version can be built for much less,
Mother Nature might send its way.
6. Assemble the base.
tenons; assemble the legs.
7. Attach the seat.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
87
BENCHES
Build a Bench
Figure 1: Exploded View
Seat board 1-1/2" × 9-1/4" × 59"
30° chamfer A
3/4"
1/4" Dado 1-1/2" × 1/2"
Tabletop fastener B
C 1/2" Short rail 1-1/2" × 4-1/2" × 11"
30° D
2-7/8" HeadLOK fastener
Paired parts. Building this bench is an exercise in creating identical pairs: two leg assemblies, two long rails, and two seat boards.
Long rail 1-1/2" × 4-1/2" × 47-1/2"
Tenon 3/4" × 3-3/4" × 1-1/4"
Post 1-1/2" × 4-1/2" × 11-3/4"
E 1"
NOTES: Overall part dimensions include tenons. All tenons are 3/4" × 3-3/4" × 1-1/4"
4-1/2" Foot 1-1/2" × 4-1/2" × 19-1/2"
1/8" UHMW riser
Stainless steel screw #8 × 1-1/4"
One quick hit to your home center, then start building
rough length helps reduce milling,
eliminate the screw holes that might
but keep short pieces together so that
let in moisture or cause rust stains.
This project is designed to
they can be machined safely. Should
make the most of two 2×10s.
your stock come in under the listed
but I suggest varnishing the seat
To maximize yield, I outfitted my
dimensions, it’s no big deal, but center
before starting the leg assemblies.
table saw with a thin-kerf blade.
the mortising jig on your stock.
This way, these boards will be a few
The mortise-and-tenon leg
protective coats ahead of the game
When planing, I stopped a few passes sooner than I normally do and dealt
assemblies are joined with Titebond
with deeper mill marks with a sander
III. The table clips do more than
and hand plane. Cutting parts to
create a cleaner-looking seat; they
88
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
It might seem out of sequence,
when you start to finish the base.
BENCHES
Garden Bench
Garden Bench Outdoor materials and sound joinery make this a bench that will last generations. By Andy Rae
S
pring is in the air, and it’s time
We chose cypress, because it’s
you can also use a benchtop mortiser
to spend some quality time
inexpensive, readily available, and
or employ a loose-tenon routing jig
outside—sitting down, of
known for its weather resistance.
to bore the mortise half of the joint.
course! To serve this purpose, why
Other insect- and decay-resistant
You can use a jig on both mating parts
not make a great outdoor bench that
woods include redwood and cedar.
of the joint and replace the more
you can “plant” in the garden or on a
For solid joinery, we chose mortise
patio? This classically inspired bench
and tenon. To build your skill set, we’ll
a loose one. As long as your joints
is fun to make, and it’s constructed
show how to mill the mortises with a
fit snugly, nobody—not even your
using a weather-resistant wood.
router and a pair of edge guides, but
bench—will detect the difference.
92
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
time-eating traditional tenon with
BENCHES
Garden Bench
Figure 1: Leg and Side Assembly Back
Side
1 × 2 × 1-1/4" tenon mortise
1 × 2-7/8 × 1-1/4" mortise
A
1 × 2-5/8 × 1-1/4" mortise
13"
1 × 2 × 1-1/4" mortise
C
A 1 × 2-7/8 × 1-1/4"
A A
10
B
13"
D
6-3/4"
16"
Front
B
B
1 × 2 × 1-1/4" tenon
o
9-3/4"
1 × 1-1/2 × 1-1/4" mortise
1 × 2 × 1-1/4" mortise
22-1/4"
13"
13"
6-3/4"
15"
1 × 1-1/4 × 1-1/4" mortise
20"
1 × 1-1/4 × 1-1/4" mortise
A
13"
E E
Side
B
C
Draw out assembly diagram. Avoid errors with a full-sized side assembly drawing containing pattern measurements and angles.
Apply the back leg template. Use the leg template to lay out the back legs. Align the template with a straight edge of the stock.
Saw the leg. Keep the leg front against the fence. Stop the saw when the blade touches the bottom inside corner.
Start with stock prep 1. Face-glue 6/4 boards to create
Plane the stretchers (E) to 1-3/4"
them to final width and length after
thick. (Note that the stock for the
assembling the bench frame.
stock thick enough to make parts
back legs (B) needs to be 6" wide).
to spread the glue evenly, then
but cut the rest of the parts to the
Make the leg 1. Make a full-sized drawing for the
space clamps to ensure uniform
finished sizes. Leave the arms (C)
side on a piece of 1/4"-thick plywood
pressure over the boards.
and crest rail (I) square for now.
(Figure 1, Photo A). Include all the
A–J (Cut List). Use a foam roller
Leave the back legs (B) over-width,
joinery. The drawing makes it easier
2. Plane the front legs (A), back legs
3. Thickness enough 5/4 stock to
to lay out the joints and measure the
(B), and crest rail (I) to 2-1/2" thick.
make three 7/8"-thick back slats
sloping angle at the bench back.
Continue planing the arms (C), side
(K) and six seat slats (M, N). Finally,
seat rails (D), front seat rail (F), back
thickness 6/4 stock to make ten
2. Make a pattern for the back legs (B)
seat rail (G), center seat rail (H),
1-1/4"-thick back posts (L). Leave
using another piece of 1/4" plywood.
and lower back rail (J) to 2" thick.
these parts oversized for now; trim
Bandsaw or jigsaw the pattern and
Filename: #28 Garden Bench 3
BRULeMoine ILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
2-24
93
GARDEN
Potting Bench
Potting Bench Get ready for planting season with this easy-to-make garden center. By Ken Burton
Y
ou don’t need a green thumb to appreciate that a potting bench is as much of a necessity
to a gardener as a workbench is to a woodworker. For starters, a potting bench provides a comfortable work surface, enabling gardeners to tend seedlings and repot plants without having to work on their hands and knees. A good bench also keeps supplies, such as potting soil, pots, garden tools, and fertilizers, in one convenient location, so that gardeners can make the most of their green time. The design shown here does all that in
spades, combining form with function. In addition to its elegantly-arched aprons, it features a segmented work surface with three removable panels. Two of the panels are slotted, making cleanup a simple matter of brushing leftover soil into the bins below. Construction is downright easy: basic butt and miter joints, a few rabbets and dadoes, followed by assembly with screws. You can build the bench in one or two weekends and make gardening easier for many seasons to come. Thermo-wood (poplar) and exterior plywood are used.
102 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
GARDEN
Potting Bench
Figure 1: Exploded View
#8 × 2" screw
K
S
1"
I
O
J
3/4"
T
P Notch back piece to fit. #8 × 1-1/4" screw Q
10-3/4"
Size opening to fit bin.
U R
H
56"
#8 × 1-5/8" screw
4-1/8"
N
G 2-5/8"
B
A
L M 3"
3/4" groove, 1/8" deep
Use tapered batten to lay out elliptical curve.
1" rabbet, 1/4" deep
#8 × 2" FH screw
33-1/4"
3-1/2"
BB AA
E 2-1/2"
1" rabbet, 1/4" deep
F #8 × 2-1/2" screw
D
C
Overall dimensions: 51" W × 23-5/8" D × 59" H
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 103
Garden Arbor
GARDEN
Garden Arbor Elegant design and rock-solid joinery make this welcoming structure the envy of the neighborhood. By Alan Turner
W
hen spring blooms, many woodworkers turn their attention from the shop
to the garden. This arbor—plus its matching gate on p. 120—takes dead aim at both passions. Handsome but without excess adornment, this Arts & Crafts–inspired project provides an inviting entrance to a thoughtfully landscaped backyard or patio area. And with any of three complementary fence ideas on p. 127, you can enclose a garden or contain Fido’s urge to romp and roam. As a woodworking project, the
arbor will teach you how to use your router with a few simple jigs to cut precise mortises and perfectly shaped curves. Another surprising detail about this project is the shopfriendly subassemblies. Despite its impressive size, this arbor is designed so that you can build the parts when there’s still snow on the ground and quickly install it outside
NOTE: Both the arbor and gate were made from grade “D and better”
as soon as the weather allows.
western red cedar. Cedar is a natural choice for large outdoor structures because it’s lightweight, easy to work, and resistant to decay. To find suitable material, you may need to go to a specialty lumberyard. Pressuretreated pine, although less expensive and easier to find, isn’t recommended for this project. Treated wood can be brutal on bits and blades.
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 109
GARDEN
Garden Arbor
Start with the arbor sides 1. Begin this project by making the
templates (p. 113). Begin by aligning
19" long upper rungs (B) and two
the appropriate template with
lower rungs (C). Saw off the rounded
mortising templates explained in
your mortise marks and clamping
corners before ripping the rungs
“Shop-Made Mortising Jigs” on p. 113.
it in place. Chuck a 7/8" spade
to final Cut List width. (Cut an
bit into a drill and remove the
extra upper and lower rung to fine-
bulk of the waste (Photo B).
tune the tenon-cutting setups.)
2. Crosscut the posts (A) and stretchers (D) to length plus 4". (Add
TIP: Make your mortises 1/8" deeper
8. Crosscut rungs (B, C) to their final
posts to provide better support for the
than the length of your tenons. The
length by clamping a stopblock to
gate. See the Cut List for dimensions
extra space gives excess glue a place
and the sidebar below.) Now,
to go—instead of oozing out the
thickness-plane these parts to square
sides—when you insert the tenons.
the below-frost length if sinking the
off the rounded corners. Working in 1/16"-deep increments, plane one post
6. Next, chuck an upcut spiral bit
face, rotate the post 90°, and plane the
into your hand-held router. Position
adjacent edge. Plane all four post and
the tool on the jig, turn it on, and
two stretcher faces before lowering
plunge the mortising bit to full
the cutting head. After removing
depth at the corners of the mortise;
the roundovers, the finished
then raise the bit and rout from
dimension should be 3-1/4" square.
side to side in 1/4"-deep increments to clean up the mortise walls and
TIP: Look for stock that’s free of any
bottom (Photo C). After routing the
pith (center of the tree), especially
four mortises for the lower rungs,
when picking corner posts. Pithy
use the upper rung template to
posts tend to twist over time.
rout the remaining 16 mortises.
3. Crosscut the freshly squared
TIP: Filing a small notch in the top and
posts (A) to 83-1/2". Include the
bottom of the jigs’ mortise openings will
frost depth if appropriate.
make the layout lines visible without affecting the accuracy of your jigs.
4. Starting at 83-1/2" down from the top end of posts (A), mark
7. Referring to the Cutting Diagram,
the mortise locations (Figure 1).
rip enough 2x6 stock to make eight
A Batch-mark. Marking out all the mortises at once is faster than using a tape and eliminates the errors that can sneak in when making repetitive measurements.
B Remove the waste. Mark the mortise depth on the bit’s shank to avoid drilling too deeply.
Next, clamp all four posts sideby-side (Photo A). Make sure that the ends are flush before transferring the mortise locations onto the remaining three posts.
Match the Post Length to Your Needs The length of the post (A) given in the Cut List assumes that you’re using a metal post base or post stake for post-footing options (Figure 7). If attaching the gate, setting the posts in concrete offers the most
5. Mortise the posts (A) using the lower rung and upper rung
stable and permanent option. If you choose this method, buy posts that are long enough to be positioned below the frost line.
110 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
GARDEN
Arbor Gate
Arbor Gate Keep the world at bay with an elegant companion to a graceful arbor. By Alan Turner
T
his curved-top gate is the
match the arbor’s ribbed bonnet.
to the top of the center stile might
perfect complement to
Like the arbor, the gate is built
appear daunting, but here you’ll
your new arbor. As you
to last from western red cedar.
learn how to make a template and
can see, the top rail, the ends of
The rails attach to the stiles using
use your router for a seamless fit.
the stiles, and even the custom-
solid mortise-and-tenon joinery.
made iron hinges were arched to
Matching the curve of the top rail
120 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
GARDEN
Arbor Gate
Figure 1: Exploded View
Begin with the gate frame 1. Referring to the Cut List, crosscut the stiles (A), bottom rail (B), and center stile (D) to length plus a few inches from 2 × 6 stock (Figure 1). Make the top rail (C)
C
F
G
from 2 × 10 stock. Surface-plane A
all five pieces to 1-3/8" thick. Using
G F
your table saw, rip a square edge
D
E
on all pieces, then rip the stiles F
(A), bottom rail (B), and center
E
stile (D) to 4-1/4" wide. The top rail
A
F
(C) will be sawn to width later. G
2. Cut the frame to fit the arbor. Referring to the Cut List, crosscut the stiles (A) and center
G
stile (D) to final length. The
B
center stile (D) is left long. It will be trimmed to fit later during assembly. See the note below before cutting the bottom rail (B) and top rail (C) to final length. NOTE: Measure the width of your arbor opening before cutting the rails to final length. This gate is designed with 7/8" of clearance on the hinge
A
F
E
F
D
side and an equal 7/8" gap on the latch side, for a post-to-post distance of 42". You may need to adjust the length of the rails to fit your arbor.
3. Make a template for the top rail (C) by first chucking a 1/2"-diameter straight bit into your handheld router. Then attach the
D
router’s base to a 54"-long strip of plywood. Plunge the bit through the plywood base. Measure 46-3/4" from the inside edge of the bit and
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 121
GARDEN
Garden Obelisk
Garden Obelisk Give your climbing plants the space to soar. By Tim Snyder
M
y wife is an avid gardener, and I love woodworking. We’ve been able to create some nice projects
by combining these two passions, including the garden obelisk featured here. These wooden steeples can be attractive punctuation marks in many yards and gardens, creating focal points that integrate architecture with the natural beauty of climbing plants. We found that the wooden obelisks
we purchased were too easily damaged; their nailed-together joints can’t stand up to New England’s blustery weather. Why not make a “woodworker’s obelisk” that can provide any yard with a peak experience, while standing strong? If you like this design, I suggest buying enough lumber for two or more. Even if you only use one in your garden, any friend with a green thumb is sure to want one.
128 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
GARDEN
Garden Obelisk
Posts, rungs & decorative peak
Use the leg and rung lengths given
I ripped all my post and rung stock
their actual measurements
from cedar 2×6 decking boards, then
should be taken directly off
planed this material 1-3/8" square
the pattern you make on the
before cutting parts to finished
work board (see p. 130).
Peak centerpiece 1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 8"
for basic reference (Figure 1);
Decorative cutout
A
Peak wedge 1-3/8" × 4" × 12" B 2-3/4" washer-head screw
length. Cypress and pressure-treated pine are also good outdoor wood
Figure 1: Exploded View
choices. Whichever wood you choose, make sure to select clear stock, since
Cap pieces 1-3/8" × 2-1/4" × 8-1/2"
C 2" finish nail
knots will weaken the structure. Crosspiece 3/4" × 3/4" × 10" E
Joinery Detail Groove 3/8" W, 1/2" D, 1/4" from corner
J
14-1/2" J
D K
10-3/4"
Rung 1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 10-1/2"
10-1/2" K
80°
F
3/4 × 3/4 × 13-1/2"
L 11"
Order of Work 1. Set up the work board. 2. Groove the post’s
1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 15-3/8"
10-1/2" G
3/4" × 3/4" × 17"
inside edges.
M
11-1/2"
1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 18-1/4"
10-1/2"
3. Cut the rungs to length, then cut tongues on the rung ends.
N
3/4" × 3/4" × 21"
H
4. Glue up the base and
10-1/2" 11-3/4"
trim the post ends. 5. Make and install the peak assembly. 6. Make and install the trellis assemblies.
3/4" × 3/4" × 25"
I
• (2) 1" × 4" × 8' cedar
11"
10"
Lumber List • (4) 2" × 6" × 8' cedar
Post 1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 75-1/2"
1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 22-1/4" O
1-3/8" × 1-3/8" × 26-1/8" 1-1/4" washer-head screw
Vertical strip 3/4" × 3/4" × 58-3/4"
80° 80°
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 129
How Good Is Plastic Wood?
WOOD & FINISHING
How Good Is Plastic Wood? Build your next project with lumber that will never decay, crack, warp, or need finishing. By Asa Christiana
T
Even though plastic lumber
hree years ago I
lumber will continue to look
resurfaced my deck with
great while real wood will show
is made almost entirely from
composite boards made
signs of damage from moisture,
bottles, bags, and other products
from recycled plastic and wood
mold, sunlight, and insects. And
rescued from the waste stream,
dust. Although I live in the
there’s more good news too:
it’s expensive to manufacture.
rainy Northwest, a giant Petri
You can build almost anything
Those costs are passed on to end-
dish for moss and mold, the
with plastic lumber, using the
users. It’s also important to note
deck still looks as good as the
same power and hand tools
that plastic boards are typically
day I installed it. And the only
you already own. But there
sold in long lengths. This can be
maintenance I’ve done is a yearly
are important considerations
an advantage if you’re building a
scrub with soap and water.
you’ll need to make when
deck, and picking up your material
switching from real wood to
from a local supplier. But if you
using synthetic lumber for other
plastic. I’ll go over some useful
want small orders or shorter
outdoor projects. It took a while,
tips about cutting, shaping,
material shipped to you, it can be
but I tried out the main types
and joining the material.
challenging to find a supplier.
That got me thinking about
of plastic lumber shown here—everything from decking boards skinned with faux wood grain to lightweight PVC trim boards and bright-colored solid plastic stock. All of these varieties offer the advantage of excellent durability under tough outdoor conditions. Plastic
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 135
WOOD & FINISHING
How Good Is Plastic Wood?
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) • Sold in sheets and as 3/4"-thick trim boards. PVC fencing, railing, and decking are also available. • Trim and sheet stock are available in white only, but these materials can be painted. • Can be glued using special PVC adhesive. • More flexible than other types of plastic lumber.
BEST USE: weatherproof trim and cladding
Plastic-capped decking boards • Composite core (recycled plastic and wood dust), with wood-grain cap that protects core from wear, weathering, and mildew. • Most common dimension is 1" × 5-1/2". • Many boards come with grooved edges for use with hidden deck fasteners. • Many wood tones available. Premium decking looks like real wood.
BEST USE: decking and projects that don’t require exposed ends or cut edges
Uncapped composite decking • Made from a blend of recycled high-density polyethylene (HDPE) and wood dust/fibers. • Most boards have a textured surface to simulate wood grain. • Boards are available in common dimension lumber sizes, and in different wood tones. • Surface will show slight weathering with age. • Has the same composition through and through. • Slightly stiffer than HDPE plastic lumber.
BEST USE: decking, outdoor railings, and outdoor furniture
High-density polyethylene (HDPE) lumber • Sold mostly for commercial use in outdoor furniture, docks, and boardwalks. • Available in many colors (with UV blockers added to minimize fading). • Has the same composition and color through and through. • Lighter than wood-plastic composites. • More slippery than other plastic lumber.
136 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
BEST USE: outdoor furniture
Wood vs. Wild
WOOD & FINISHING
Wood vs. Wild Protect your outdoor projects with this handy survival guide. By Robert J. Settich
N
To help save your outdoor
one of us would ever
blistering heat, and torrential rain.
dream of sending our
And while cruelty to wood won’t
projects from abuse, we developed a
children out into the snow
land you in prison, it will definitely
condensed survival guide covering
without a proper coat, boots, and
peel years away from your project’s
wood and manufactured panels,
mittens. Yet some people callously
life expectancy and serve a death
fasteners, adhesives, and finishes.
shove their woodworking creations
sentence to its good looks.
out the door to face Arctic blasts,
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 139
WOOD & FINISHING
Wood vs. Wild
Western red cedar
Domestic softwoods Domestic softwoods with natural decay resistance include western red cedar, cypress, and redwood. Shipping costs usually dictate which species is available in your area. All are lightweight and easy to work. However, realize that these species are particularly soft softwoods and therefore are susceptible to surface damage by a stray hammer blow or collision with
Redwood
brick, concrete, and other unforgiving surfaces.
Cypress
Mahogany Tropical hardwoods Tropical hardwoods such as teak and ipe have high density and natural decay resistance, two factors that recommend them for outdoor furniture. But these woods can be hard to find
Teak
and usually have eye-popping price tags. Genuine mahogany (not lauan) is another decay-resistant wood that is lower in both density and price.
White oak
Ipe
White oak is an excellent domestic hardwood for exterior projects because its closed cell structure inhibits moisture absorption. That’s why it works for everything from whiskey barrels to porch swings.
140 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
White oak
WOOD & FINISHING
Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects
Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects When it comes to the great outdoors, not all woods are created equal. By Udo Schmidt
T
he choice of wood you make
species in North America very
available in lumberyards—even in
for outdoor projects can
suitable for outdoor projects.
home improvement warehouses—
mean years of enjoyment
Finding the right wood depends
while others are not available
or potential disappointment.
on the woodworker’s location and
in commercial trade, but can be
Fortunately, there are several
pocketbook. Some species are readily
obtained from local sawmills.
Choose a resilient wood for outdoor projects. With proper care and the right choices of wood and finish, outdoor furniture can withstand conditions such as moisture and bugs.
146 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Choosing Wood for Outdoor Projects
Heartwood & Sapwood: The Difference In a living tree, the heartwood is for support and doesn’t conduct water or store food. In contrast, sapwood contains both living and dead cells and transports water and nutrients from
WOOD & FINISHING
up to 6“ in hickories and maples. After several years of growth, the cells become inactive and increase in extractive content like resins, gums, waxes, oils, polyphenols, and tannins and become heartwood. Heartwood is usually darker in color than sapwood because of its
species, from only 1/2" in black locust to
some species highly resistant to decay.
Heartwood can be even tougher. The reddish heartwood of eastern red cedar is very decay-resistant.
When buying wood that will be
outdoors wood seldom goes below
exposed end grain after assembly.
exposed to the elements, look for
a moisture content of 12%, except
wood that is decay resistant, insect
in dry desert conditions. It can also
direct sunlight and weather. This
resistant, and weather resistant.
absorb moisture to over 20% (up to the
dramatically reduces maintenance.
Approximately 10% of North
species’ fiber saturation point) during
For instance, an Adirondack chair
American lumber production is
a period of humid or wet conditions. In
located under a covered porch might
used to replace damaged wood on
other words, moisture content usually
need only a coat of finish every two
structures or other element-exposed
fluctuates more in outdoor wood than
years. But if the chair is exposed
wooden objects. Regardless of the
indoor wood. This means that outdoor
to the elements, it needs two coats
species, the sapwood part of any wood
wood swells and shrinks in greater
a year to keep it looking new.
has no natural resistance to decay.
dimensions than wood used indoors.
The first thing to do is to understand
Using kiln-dried wood for outdoor
ground (e.g., fence posts). Instead,
the difference between heartwood
projects is not necessary; however,
build a concrete foundation and
and sapwood (see sidebar above).
lumber in home improvement stores
paint the buried part in heavy roof
is sometimes sold as kiln-dried.
tar or creosote. Concrete traps
to consider is the growth ring
Most likely this wood is still well
moisture around wood much longer
arrangement. A good example is
above its fiber saturation point and
because it cannot drain naturally.
western red cedar. If the growth rings
should be air-dried before using.
the roots to the leaves. The thickness of the sapwood varies greatly among
Another important aspect
are more than 1/8" apart, this wood is
higher level of extractives, which also makes wood from the heartwood of
Regardless of the wood you choose,
Keep your project out of
Don’t bury bare wood in the
Keep water and snow away from your project. Don’t let a
considered only moderately resistant
there are a few points to consider if
chair sit in a puddle of water or
to decay. With decay-resistant species,
you want to eliminate or retard decay.
let snow lay on play equipment.
the closer the growth rings, the
Apply several coats of finish to
Even though most of the species
the end grain of the wood before
mentioned here are highly resistant
assembling the project. The end
to decay, that doesn’t mean that
indoor or outdoor projects is the
grain is more susceptible to moisture
they are also resistant to insects.
moisture content to which the wood
absorption and will check and split
For instance, teak is resistant to
will equalize. Indoors, wood’s moisture
long before the other parts of the
termites, but not to the marine borer.
content fluctuates between 6% in
wood. If this is not possible, apply
If you anticipate insect damage to
winter and 12% in summer. However,
several extra coats of finish on all
your project, a product called Bug
more decay-resistant the wood. The main difference in wooden
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 147
Outdoor Finishes
WOOD & FINISHING
Outdoor Finishes Choose the right finish to dress your outdoor woodwork for success. By Derek Richmond
W
hen it rains, it pours. So
While no product will completely
finishes that offer better protection
you put on a raincoat—
protect your projects from the rain,
at the beginning can also be more
or go inside. And
snow, and sun, choosing the right
difficult to maintain and refinish. And maintaining an outdoor
when the snows come, you bundle
finish and applying it the right way is
up. Sunny? A pair of sunglasses
a critical opening gambit in the uphill
finish may be necessary, but it doesn’t
and maybe some SPF lotion. But
battle of keeping your woodwork
have to be evil. The trick is picking
your outdoor furniture and other
lasting long and looking beautiful.
the right finish, then knowing how
woodwork don’t have such luxuries.
After all, the finish has to balance
and—just as importantly—how often
Those pieces rely on you to store
protection from the elements with
to maintain that finish to protect
them inside or undercover, and
an element of simplicity in both
your projects and keep your wood
when that’s not practical, to apply
application and renewal. As you’ll
looking good season after season.
and maintain a protective finish.
see in the following pages, those
BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 149
WOOD & FINISHING
Outdoor Finishes
Oil-based varnishes
cracking or peeling from seasonal
wise to thin the initial coat with
Varnish has come to be a catch-all
wood movement. Frequently, these
mineral spirits (up to 50% with some
term for any number of film-forming
finishes also contain UV blockers
products) to promote good adhesion.
finishes. Most oil-based “varnishes”
that inhibit the sun’s ultraviolet rays
consist of a drying oil (usually tung
from degrading the wood beneath.
or linseed), a resin (typically alkyd
The trade-off is that exterior
or polyurethane) and a solvent
varnishes aren’t as hard or durable
(mineral spirits). Varying the type
as interior formulations. Depending
and ratio of those components
on the weather, a well-applied
affects characteristics of the
exterior varnish will last 2–3 years
protective layer formed by the film.
before it begins to look chalky. When
Exterior oil-based varnishes—some
it does, sand the surface and apply a
manufacturers dub them “spar”
fresh coat. Do this before the finish
from the days of tall-masted ships—
develops cracks; otherwise you may
contain a greater percentage of oils
have to sand down to bare wood.
than their interior counterparts.
Oil-based varnishes, which impart
This formulation means exterior
an amber hue to the wood, can be
varnish remains more flexible when
applied by brush or spray. When
cured, lessening the likelihood of it
applying to bare wood, it’s often
Water-based varnishes
to add gloss and durability,
These film-forming finishes are also
but be sure to check for
resin-based (alkyd, urethane, and/or
compatibility first. To apply a
acrylic) but use water as their solvent,
water-based finish, first raise
making them environmentally
the wood grain with distilled
friendlier and easier to clean up. Like
water and then lightly sand
their oil-based cousins, the outdoor
away the raised fibers before
formulations form a weather- and
brushing or spraying on 3–4
UV-resistant film that remains
thin coats. Allow each coat to
flexible. Although milky-white as a
dry thoroughly, then sand and
liquid, they dry clear with no amber
recoat. Clean up with water.
Exterior varnish for multi-layered protection. For maximum protection, some manufacturers recommend applying 7–8 coats of their exterior varnishes. Thin as directed and allow to dry before scuff-sanding between coats. Clean up with mineral spirits.
cast. This tends to flatten the color and grain rather than enhance it the way an oil-based varnish does. Staining first can help, as can using amber-colored additives made for the purpose. Water-based varnishes can be applied over other non-oilbased finishes such as milk paint
150 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
Water-based varnish gives toughness on top. A water-based varnish adds protection and gloss to bare wood and painted surfaces. Here it’s being sprayed on a white oak ladder-ball game.
Restoring Outdoor Projects
WOOD & FINISHING
Restoring Outdoor Projects Add years to the life of your lawn and patio furniture. By Marlen Kemmet
Y
ear after year, outdoor
functional piece in need of a little
furniture pieces take a brutal
TLC. Although the wood appeared
Common fixes for failing furniture
beating from Mother Nature
badly weathered, a little sanding
After assessing your furniture
in the form of intense sunlight,
and scraping on the bottom side of
piece and deciding that it’s worth
temperature extremes, moisture,
a seat slat revealed sound lumber.
saving, develop an action plan.
windblown dirt and pollen, and
Next, check the joints for further
insects. To wage the good fight and
rot, looseness, and hardware
extend the life of these cherished
issues that undermine the
pieces, follow along as I take you
project’s structural integrity.
step by step through the rehab of an
Are replacement parts or new
Adirondack chair, solving common
hardware in order? With seating
problems that afflict most outdoor
of any kind, these are critical for
projects, and extending its useful life.
safety. Is the finish flaking or
Use these strategies to remedy a variety of problems.
otherwise compromised? If what
Can this project be saved?
you are facing is a lost cause,
Over time, all wood projects reach
you may find it cheaper and
the point of no return. But, in the
far more time-saving to simply
case of this Adirondack chair, it was
build a sturdier replacement.
worth the time and effort for me to restore this weathered old friend. How can you tell if an outdoor project has passed its prime? For starters, check for severe wood rot, warping, or large checks or cracks in individual parts. Looks can be deceiving. At first blush, the Adirondack chair looked destined for the landfill. But underneath the grit, lichen, and grime was a perfectly
Before BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE 153
WOOD & FINISHING
Restoring Outdoor Projects
Clean the piece Problem Lichen, mold, weathering, and encrusted dirt have attacked the project, detracting
Power wash. For badly damaged pieces, a powerwasher and a cleaning solution provide the first step.
from its appearance and leading to decay.
Solution Depending upon the severity of the degradation you have two choices. For projects like the chair, I recommend pressure-washing the entire piece at a low setting using a wide-nozzle tip on the wand (Photo A). Rinse the entire piece first. Then, power-wash it with
A
a commercial solution to clean and brighten the wood. Or, save a few bucks by mixing your own solution. I used one quart of household bleach, onethird cup of powdered laundry soap, and three quarts of water. A raincoat, safety glasses, and gloves come in
Scrub. A stiffbristled brush and lots of elbow grease clean entrenched grime at little cost.
handy for protection against splatter. If you don’t have access to a power washer, spray the piece down with a garden hose and scrub the grime off (Photo B). Avoid a wire brush, as the hard, stiff bristles may cause deep scratches in the wood, which will have to be sanded.
B
Power-Washing Pointers When power-washing outdoor furniture,
damage the wood, much like sandblasting.
start with the lowest setting, hold the nozzle
Power-washer spray tips come in different
end of the wand about 18" away to start,
spray patterns, with the range spanning
and move closer if necessary. Too high of a
from 0° to 40°. The wider the angle, the more
pressure setting or a tip held too close can
surface area covered, but with less impact.
154 BUILDING OUTDOOR FURNITURE
House & Home / Woodworking
Woodworking projects that will transform your outdoor space.
S
pend more time enjoying your patio, porch, and backyard with more than a dozen projects,
including a classic Adirondack, sturdy and stylish tables, comfortable benches, and much more. With detailed plans, helpful photos, and step-by-step instructions, Building Outdoor Furniture delivers projects for every skill level and need. Also included is expert advice on selecting the right materials and finishes to ensure your outdoor projects withstand the test of time. Whether you’re a hands-on homeowner or a woodworking enthusiast, Building Outdoor Furniture is the ideal book for anyone who wants to build affordable, long-lasting pieces to transform their outdoor living space. ISBN 978-1-950-934-82-9 $27.95 US