REGAL REBELLION by Saffron O’Neill
CONCEPT “Regal Rebellion” is a fashion design collection that marries the grandeur of the Elizabethan era with the contemporary aesthetics of deconstruction, embroidery, and workwear fabrics. The inspiration for this collection comes from the Elizabethan era, a time of elaborate garments, luxurious fabrics, and a rigid social hierarchy. Focusing mainly on the “divisions in power and wealth between social classes” of the era (Tony Hier 2018). By deconstructing the traditional silhouettes and reimagining them with a modern twist, the collection is challenging past conventions. Embroidery is used in the collection, mainly inspired by portraits of the 1600 and 1700s, and of women in power through the ages. By using embroidery, the collection is adding a touch of regality, craftsmanship, and texture. Traditional workwear fabrics, such as pinstripe and denim (SewSupport, 2023), are incorporated to add an unexpected edge to the collection. These fabrics, typically associated with functionality and practicality, are transformed into statement pieces. This juxtaposition of opulence and deconstruction, traditional embroidery and workwear fabrics, creates a collection that is both visually captivating and conceptually thought-provoking.
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U N I Q U E FA B R I C AT I O N “Regal Rebellion” contains several unique fabrications all done by hand - including: embroidery, pleated details, woven pieces, and knitted elements. Embroidery is used for the faces of body one and two, and for the brooches pinned to the mens jumper. All brooches are hand-made and designed by Saffron O’Neill. The embroidered faces are also done by hand and taken from portraits of the 1600 and 1700s. The hand-pleated details are used in four of the looks, including; the ‘Elizabeth’ corset, the ‘Isabella’ body-suit, the ‘Nightingale’ under-shirt, and as an accessory to the ‘William’ Jumper. These pleats are made by first constructing a traditional Shakespearean Ruff Collar, then ironing this flat. These pleats quickly became a key feature in this collection after experimenting with Ruff Collar textures. Weaving is used in the ‘William’, ‘Elizabeth’, and ‘Ioanna’ bodies. In the ‘William’ Jumper, the body of the garment has been hand-woven on a loom, using hand-spun threads and tufts of wool. This has then been blended into a jumper silhouette through the use of knitting. The ‘Ioanna’ dress and the ‘Elizabeth’ woven overlay for the skirt are identical. They are the same colour, texture, and style of weaving done by hand on a traditional loom. This is done deliberatly to tie everything together and create a collection that flows. The woven pieces are hand-made by local artist, Katrina O’Neill.
ACCESSORIES All accessories for this collection are hand-made by designer, Saffron O’Neill. These accessories include hand-embroidered and handbeaded brooches as seen on the right, and hand-made traditional Ruff Collars. The brooches are used as an accessory to the menswear ‘William’ Jumper to elevate the look and pair all elements of the collection together. Inspiration for the brooches has been taken from the 1600s and 1700s - more specifically, portrait details of this era. The brooches will be apart of this collections Range Plan, and are therefor available for sale by order. The Ruff Collars are used in the ‘Ioanna’ woven dress, and the ‘William’ jumper, to once again elevate and bring together the entire collection.
BODY 1:
ELIZABETH
BODY3:
NIGHTINGALE
This look features a pleated skirt composed of polyester georgette, paired with a denim corset. The denim corset is composed of up-cycled jeans and a hand-pleated texture made from denim and organza. The top also features a hand-embroidered portrait of Queen Elizabeth the First.
This organz with a p This h a trad of the paired 1600
BODY2:
ISABELLA
This look is composed of four garments; the under-shirt made of organza with hand-pleated details, the 100% cotton button-up shirt with interesting webbing details, a denim vest made of up-cycled jeans, and the black pinstripe wide-leg pants which are the same silhouette as in Body 2 ‘Isabella’.
This look features a boned bodysuit with handpleated details - made of organza and cotton. The top also features a hand-embroidered portrait of Isabella Clara Euegnia of the 1600/ 1700s. This is then paired with a pair of wide-leg denim jeans - the material in which has been up-cycled from other denim jeans sourced from the op-shops.
ACCESSORIES:
BROOCHES All brooches are handmade and hand-beaded and can be sold by order
BODY4:
BODY5:
BODY6:
IOANNA
PAC K E D
WILLIAM
s look is composed of a sheer blue za slip dress, which is then overlaid piece of hand-woven textured fabric. hand-woven piece has been done on ditional loom, and in the colourway e rest of the collection. This is then d with a traditional Ruff Collar of the and 1700s - made of the same blue organza as the slip dress.
This menswear look exhibits a one-sleeve jacket made of upcycled denim and leather scraps, and remnants of an old backpack. This is paired with a 100% cotton hand-dyed chinese fabric buttonup shirt, and adjustable-hem electric blue pants - with more denim detailing.
This look encompasses a mens tailored trouser in a wool pinstripe fabric, paired with a knit jumper. The body of the jumper is woven on a traditional loom, and the rest of the jumper has been hand-knitted. This is then paired with brooches inspired by the 1600s and 1700s portraits, which have also been hand-embroidered and beaded.
RANGE PLAN
TREND
Credits Saffron O’Neill: Fashion Designer Accessories Designer Pattern-maker Garment construction Model Photographer
Katrina O’Neill: Weaver Knitter
Darby Quinn: Photographer Model
Grace Agnew: Photographer
Ethan O’Neill: Photographer
Jack Ritchie: Model
Charlotte Agnew: Model