The Breaking New Ground Issue by Vert by Vert Magazine

BEN PLAYER (INTERVIEW) PSYCHOBREAK

THE BREAKING NEW GROUND

PORTUGAL ROCKS #SLABHUNTING A BUNCH FROM THE WORLD

Photo: Hélio António

TEASER PHOTO

WAT E R I S T H E D R I V I N G F O R C E O F A L L N AT U R E

LEONARDO DA VINCI

----Ricardo Miguel Vieira [Txt] -----

SCRAP BOOK

----Levi, Bunker. Nuno Cardoso [Photo] -----

----Cover | Ben Player > © Far North/Jack Johns [Photo] -----

Breaking New Ground, o título deste vosso novo flipbook, não tem uma tradução literal portuguesa que lhe confira o mesmo peso e relevância do original em inglês. Num sentido lato, a expressão significa “a emergência de um novo paradigma”, a representação de uma mudança mais ou menos profunda no seio de uma cultura ou movimento. A mais recente produção audiovisual do 3x-campeão mundial Ben Player é um excelente exemplar dessa disrupção na norma. Mais do que um filme de bodyboard repleto de manobras e narrações por vezes insípidas sobre destinos paradísicos de ondas perfeitas, “Far North” encapsula o drama implícito nas explorações de ondas de consequência, a fusão com os elementos naturais mais extremos, a adrenalina da descoberta de novos territórios e os fortes laços de irmandade que se criam com um grupo de amigos empenhados no mesmo ideal de desbravamento. É uma obra que ecoa de forma soberba cada um dos sentidos que nos assaltam a cada nova matinal, conferindolhe um olhar humano ao mesmo tempo que

aponta novas coordenadas à cinematografia bodyboarder – e à própria progressão do desporto. É por isso que dedicamos a presente edição ao rider, ao cinematógrafo e ao director da recém-publicada Movement Mag através de uma entrevista reveladora da sua visão sobre o futuro do bodyboard e de como está nas mãos da comunidade a iniciativa de puxar a scene para novos patamares. Além da conversa com o australiano, há ainda galerias dedicadas à temporada de Inverno em Portugal e um par de sessões especiais no pico mais insano do Rio de Janeiro. Assim se descreve a nossa homenagem à aventura por novas fronteiras para o nosso bodyboard.

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Mais do que um destino de ondas pesadas no mapa português, o Bunker é um símbolo de rebelião bodyboarder. Quando as previsões escalam uns bons furos acima do normal, são às dezenas os guerreiros que fogem de paragens mais óbvias e testam os limites nas bombas deste pico da zona Oeste. Desse batalhão costuma fazer parte Francisco Horta. O rider da capital não falta à chamada quando o assunto são ondas pesadas e viagens por vórtices esverdeados e apaixonantes. A / Tó Mané [Photo]

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Muitos ainda se recordarão do debate de há uma década sobre o destino do 2x-campeão mundial Andre Botha. Depois de alinhar um futuro promissor no desporto, o sul-africano perdeu algures pelo caminho o fio ao argumento, sucumbiu a vícios e batalhou bravamente pela sua saúde mental. Hoje, ‘Dre’ é um espírito renovado, um artista, e uma inspiração no que toca a insanidade e paixão no bodyboard. Uma vida entre o caos e a adrenalina, tal como retrata este postal de ‘Dre’ na sempre imprevisível Waimea Shorebreak.

B / Chris Kincade [Photo]

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Nem só de pesadas sessões no Bunker ou, mais a norte, na Nazaré se faz a história da última temporada de Inverno na nossa costa. Por diversas ocasiões, Supertubos rolou bem redondo e consistente, como de resto é característica quando os elementos se alinham. Num momento bem intenso, o local rider “Peixinho” acelera a fundo por mais uma luxuosa caverna do beachbreak de Peniche. C / João Pedro Rocha [Photo]

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No preciso instante em que batemos este texto, escutamos que Pierre-Louis Costes conquistou a etapa chilena de El Gringo. Numa das ondas mais pontuadas do heat, o francês disparou em direcção à estratosfera num impressionante 360º aéreo que quase lhe valeu a nota máxima. Foi um momento que elevou o nível da final e o espectáculo que se seguiu foi incrível, com os restantes competidores a arriscarem tudo no lips e nas secções mais radicais. É deste modo que se puxa pela evolução do desporto, seja dentro ou fora de competição. E nesse campo, PLC é um dos atletas de vanguarda da presente geração. D / Chris Gurney[Photo]

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É o poster perfeito da consistência da temporada fria e do poder das ondas lusitanas. Uma parede redonda e esmeralda que desenha um carrossel perfeito para um qualquer resistente explorar. É a magia do Inverno português em estado puro. Mais homenagens deste calibre ao nosso litoral são desvendadas na galeria “Portugal Rocks” que podem encontrar mais à frente nesta edição

D / Hélio António [Photo]

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André ‘Rasta’ Bernardo é um dos bravos das ondas pesadas em Portugal. Treinado pelos humores da praia do Norte, o bodyboarder da Nazaré sempre se mostrou à altura dos acontecimentos quando o panorama parece fora de controlo. Porém, a desenvoltura de ‘Rasta’ não se confina ao beachbreak nazareno, sendo regulares as suas incursões a outros vértices do triângulo Ericeira-Peniche-Nazaré. A Cave, por exemplo, é um dos seus pontos de eleição exactamente por se tratar de uma das ondas mais perigosas e desafiantes do país. Postura invejável e muita calma na hora do rolo compressor ericeirense entrar em locomoção. E / Hélio António [Photo] [Photo]

T H E N O RT H ER N WAV E S , B ROT H ER H O O D, A N D N E A R- D E AT H E X P ER I EN C I E S :

Ben Player has long been one of the most progressive bodyboarders in the world. Besides being a 3x-World Bodyboarding Champion, the 37-year old Australian native is reputed for his flawless riding and drawn-to-perfection manoeuvring, which over the years shaped a unique style that is mimicked all over the place. His unwavering sense of exploration, and desire to be among the best, took him to ride some of the most incredible waves on the planet while competing in the World Tour in the past 20 years. Moreover, Ben rose to a prominent name among a generation of passionate bodyboarders that first crossed-

All Photos: ÂŠ Fa

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A C H AT W I T H B E N P L AY E R O N “ F A R N Ø R T H ”.

paths and explored some of the heaviest, and deathliest, waves ever to be revealed. But even when he’s not shredding in the water, Ben Player is still pushing bodyboarding forward through a series of side projects. The leading of examples is his immaculately curated Movement magazine, which rebooted a couple of months ago after years absent from the shelves. But what’s on the table right now is actually is Ben’s fiveyears-in-the-making project “Far Nørth”, the most incredible r N o r t h/J a c k J o h n s

‘surfing’ film you’ve ever seen.

Produced and co-directed by Ben himself alongside Todd Barnes and Ed Saltau (both also co-directors), “Far Nørth” chronicles a journey through uncharted Northern Europe riding some of the globe’s most uninviting rock slabs. Ben’s quest was fueled by his keenness on surfing a death-defying slab called The Bull, a wave that breaks straight into a rug of rocks with little to escape from. But at some point, the experience turned dramatic after Ben and his crew flew to Ireland to take advantage of a much prosper swell that was hitting that coast. Eventually, after days battering against the elements and taking blows from the Scottish slab, Ben ceded to the forces of nature and tore his spleen in a way that left him battling for life. With an outstanding cinematography, where the natural visions and sounds come to life, “Far Nørth” is an honest depiction of what entails to challenge the most extreme waves in an unrelenting and hostile environment. The ultimate narrative is an ode to friendship at the toughest of times and portrait of the hardships an ocean rider comes across while travelling through uncanny, yet magical lands. We caught up with Ben Player to understand the meaning of this project at this stage of his career and life.

“YOU CAN'T JUST GO ABOUT RIDING THOSE KINDS OF WAVES EXPECTING NOTHING TO HAPPEN, THERE'S CONSEQUENCE INVOLVED WITH IT”

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HEY BEN! I JUST ARRIVED TODAY

Yeah, I had been in Scotland the whole time

FROM A TRIP TO IRELAND AND GOT TO

and the forecasts were pretty bad for the remaining week

SURF RILEY’S. I’M GUESSING YOU MISS

we meant to be there, but Ireland looked really good so

THAT PLACE.

we went for it instead. It was kind of a last-minute trip, we booked it the night before at like 10pm and we left the next

That’s amazing. I loved Ireland. It was

morning at 6am. It was really special because Jack Johns

particularly cool [at the time we were filming]

[photographer and one of UK’s most reputed bodyboarders]

because I'd been in Scotland for five weeks and

was with us and he knows Scotland and Ireland really well

really didn't surf with anyone and in Ireland I

so he was always keeping an eye on the forecasts. He said,

surfed with such warm, friendly people that it

'boys, this forecast looks really good, would you guys be

was a complete contrast from where we just came

keen to go?’ But I thought about how we were going to

from. It was all really more special to have that.

do it because we had the whole crew to move, so it was logistically really hard to organise that sort of trip. At first, we thought about driving, but we found out it would be

I REMEMBER WATCHING THE DOCUMENTARY-LIKE VERSION OF THE

more expensive than flying, so ended up booking the trip and hiring a car in Ireland.

TRIP ON RED BULL TV BEFORE IT BECAME “FAR NØRTH” AND YOU SAID THAT YOU ALL WENT TO IRELAND BECAUSE THERE WAS NO SWELL COMING UP IN SCOTLAND. INITIAL PLAN?

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I GUESS IRELAND WASN’T PART OF THE

HOW DID YOU ACTUALLY CAME UP WITH THE IDEA FOR “FAR NØRTH”? The idea came about probably five years ago as I was walking away from that particular wave, which is The Bull, in Scotland. At the time, a massive swell hit Scotland and we didn't know where to surf, so we ventured through the coastline trying to find any sort of slab where we could surf. We came across this wave and I just saw probably the biggest and best barrels I'd ever seen in the world hit this reef. I was sitting there on the point trying to work out if it was rideable, those waves were crazy. Eventually I determined that probably it wasn't surfeable, so I turned my back and walked away. But then I got to the hotel that night and I was thinking, 'shit, maybe that was rideable'. It’s like whenever you have a wave that comes in front of you and you pull back and you always play that wave [in your mind] and try to figure if you could ride it, and that’s exactly what happened with The Bull. After that, I went about planning and organising [the trip] and would release the end result as a movie.

“ I WA S AT A S TA G E O F M Y C AR EER W H ER E I WA S P R E T T Y BORED FROM DOING THE T O U R F U L LTIME”

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Besides the fact that I really wanted

ending noise of the chopper evacuating me - was engineered

to go back and surf The Bull, I was at a stage of

and designed to give the viewer this emotional, evocative

my career where I was pretty bored from doing

feeling and I think we really nailed that.

the Bodyboarding World Tour full-time. I started when I was 17 years old and now I'm 37, so it's been a longtime since I really just went away and

GIVEN ALL THE EVENTS AND EVEN THE

challenged myself in a new environment. I wanted

CONFIGURATION OF THOSE PLACES, DID YOU

to try getting that good sense of camaraderie with

FIND YOURSELF CHANGING THE INITIAL SCRIPT

the film crew and having a team and going away

ALONG THE WAY?

with a joint purpose. At first, when we went to Scotland, the movie was meant to be purely a surf flick. It would be us going AND WHEN YOU DECIDED TO

surfing and having good times and all of that. But actually,

DOCUMENT THE TRIP, WHAT DID YOU

the reality of being up in that space really changed our

HAVE IN MIND ABOUT CREATING A MOVIE?

thoughts and planning for the movie. The darkness, the

WHAT WOULD IT BE?

depression, all these negative emotions come into play when you're in such a cold and harsh environment. That's

We wanted to explore some new

something we weren't aware when we were in Australia. We

territory, instead of creating a film that had an

thought it was going to be fun and colourful and easy, but

American narrator filling in the blanks, telling what

when we were actually on location it was like, 'holy shit, this

and where I was going to. We wanted to create a

isn't easy nor fun, this is hardwork and really dangerous'. I

story evoking a lot of emotion and a storytelling

guess it flipped the script of the movie from being just the

having vision, sounds and music without narration.

sort of happy-fun movie to become more about the emotions

Every single shot of that whole film - from the

and hardships that come with doing a surftrip.

waves crushing and erupting against the cliff to the

When you watch the movie, you'll notice there are a lot of these natural sounding elements that come into play. They really create a sense of the environment and that was something we were really trying to do. When you're actually up there, you're being bashed by mother nature from Sun up until Sun down. We'd get up at 6 in the morning, step outside and having this sleet hitting our faces with winds at 30km/h. The whole day is either a hell of an onshore - cold as fuck -, or it's a hell of an offshore wanting to blow you on the water. The whole time you feel that you are battling mother nature, it's so strong and relentless. There's a reason why the Vikings kind of had gods based around nature and stuff like that. It's very real when you're up there and that is something we really wanted to try and document. That was a big element that really changed the script. It was a long process, but I think that in the end it all shows through the quality of the film that we made. You can tell that [we put] more into it than just a bunch of guys trying to make a bit of money. It's total passion, we really put everything we had into that movie.

THE ENDING SCENE OF THE HELICOPTER TAKING YOU TO THE HOSPITAL IS REALLY SHORT, YET VERY POWERFUL WITH ALL THE DRAMATIC SURROUNDING AND NOISES. WHAT DID YOU WANT TO ACHIEVE WITH THAT FINAL BIT? So we ended up doing several changes to the first edit, we went back to the charting board and started again and again. We then noticed we kept on coming back to this theme of having like three peaks in the movie, with the final one being the crash. It leaves the viewer kind of wanting more and thinking, 'what a fuck just happened'.

“ E V ERYO N E' S S T I LL I N T H AT M I N D S E T WHERE WINNING A WORLD TITLE IS THEIR PURPOSE IN BODYBOARDING. M AY B E I ' M J U S T A LITTLE BIT MORE M AT U R E A N D L O O K AT T H I N G S A B I T D I F F E R E N T LY.”

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When we got to show it first to a sort of dummy audience, people were like, 'are you sure you want to finish that way, it's kind of sad, what happens after that?' That's exactly what we wanted: to leave it open to interpretation and for people to realise that there are repercussions in doing what we do. You can't just go about riding those kinds of waves expecting nothing to happen, there's consequence involved with it. So we left story where I actually fail and mother nature wins. That was really the final conclusion to the movie.

HOW LONG DID IT TAKE YOU TO GATHER THE FOOTAGE FOR “FAR NØRTH”? We weren't sure how long it was going to take, all we knew was that we had six weeks on location and we had to try and get enough footage for the Red Bull TV show and for the movie. We were aware of the constraints of time. We went surfing all day, we'd be shooting a lot of landscapes and the environment and touring around and trying to get these really cool shots of everywhere around. It was a very busy time, but that was good too because it gave us a real purpose every single day. That made us think like, 'it's minus five this morning, there's sleet and a hell of an onshore, but we still have to get up and get out there'. That's what we did, either go surfing or shooting landscapes.

“ FA R N Ø RTH ” D EFI N ITELY SE TS A DIFFERENT TONE ON SURFING FLICKS, IT TRULY CAPTURES THE WHOLE FEELING OF GAMBLING WITH THE ELEMENTS – ESPECIALLY IN SUCH UNIQUE PLACES LIKE SCOTLAND AND IRELAND. HOW DID THE AUDIENCE RELATE TO THIS FILM? When we had our premiere, I was looking around the room checking people's faces and I was like, 'oh my god, this shit's really happening' [laughs]. It really felt like they picked up on what we really wanted to get across. The message I've gotten from people that watched it was that it's something different, it's really unique in the way it was put together. A lot of people said there's a whole lot of emotion that stayed with them after watching, that definitely changed the way they think about surf movies.

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DID YOU HAVE AN AUDIENCE THAT YOU WANTED TO DRAW IN WITH THIS FILM? Well it was created in a way that would appeal to anyone, but the people that we had in our heads was ourselves. Ed, Todd and myself had a conversation about That’s good to see because one thing

this and on the earlier stages we had a bunch of people in

is being a director or producer and saying, 'this

our heads that we wanted to appeal to. But then we decided

is what we wanted to do' and then putting it out

to just make the film we want to make and that we're proud

there and find out that it doesn't communicate

of and if people liked it, that's great; if they don't, we'll still

that because you don't have a backstory behind

be proud of it.

every shot. There's a bridge that you have to cross between what you've created and what the

From that point, things started to become really

audience actually sees, and sometimes they do

easier, because we did what we want. But who knows what a

get two different perspectives of the same thing.

surfer wants to see, probably wants palm trees and someone

But it was good to see that the audience actually

surfing in boardshorts. So I was making the movie for me

could see what we were trying to create.

and people like us and that's the important thing.

DO YOU FR AME “FAR NØRTH” AS A BODYBOARDING, A SURFING OR JUST AN ACTION SPORTS SORT OF FILM? I guess it's a new territory for a lot of film genres. I mean, how would you actually position it in the market? It's not a documentary, because there's no narration, but it isn't an action movie because it isn’t so much about the action, there's a story behind it. It was really hard to define it because I never saw a movie quite like it. In saying that, it's really hard to see how other surfers and the action sports market and whoever else are going to receive it.

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like kind of brothers and it was a pretty incredible biggest compliment we could ever get, was what we could feeling to me.

dream about achieving. It was really cool to get someone so distant from me and bodyboarding saying and talking like that about a film that has bodyboarding, in it. That's really big, it gives bodyboarding a lot of credibility, which

I've sent a copy to a couple of people

is really cool.

that I know are really respected in the industry and they loved it. There's this surfing and skateboarding

In that article they say bodyboarding is a stepchild

magazine in Australia called Monster Children that

of surfing and saying that is that the film is bigger than

reviewed it and said that it sets a new benchmark

surfing. It's really a big thing for bodyboarding to have

for surf cinematography. That right there was the

someone with so much credibility saying that.

DO YOU BELIEVE THAT “FAR NØRTH” CAN SHED A NEW AND DIFFERENT LIGHT ON BODYBOARDING AND HOW IT IS PERCEIVED BY THE PUBLIC? I hope it gives bodyboarding the opportunity for people to gain awareness of what it's about, because most people's interaction with bodyboarding is guys in the whitewash going straight and riding out from the shorebreak to the sand. That's what they think bodyboarding is and I believe this film has the opportunity to show the wider world what bodyboarding actually is about: surfing death defying waves, doing moves on these crazy waves and really pushing the limits while using a bodyboard as a the perfect vehicle to ride those nuts waves.

“ T H E DA R K N E S S , T H E DEPRESSION, ALL THESE N E G A T I V E E M O T I O N S COME INTO PLAY WHEN YOU'RE IN SUCH A CO LD AND HARSH ENVIRONMENT”

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creates a strong bond between each other.

IMPORTANT LESSON YOU’VE TAKEN FROM THE JOURNEY?

That was probably the best outcome I've gotten from that whole experience, the power that friendship does

When you're on a place like Scotland

have. You know, when I thought I was going to die and was

for six weeks with that sole purpose, then it feels

laying on my back waiting for the helicopter, I was watching

like home because there's nothing else that you

everything in slow motion. Todd [Barnes], the cameraman,

need to do, it's all right there. That was a really

was holding my hand and he was trying to tell me that

cool feeling I got out of it, the sense of camaraderie

everything was going to be alright and not to worry. Jack

and purpose. When I reflect on the trip, that's

was bolting around the cliffs to get the paramedics and

probably what I miss the most, that’s something

trying to get everything sorted and ended up cracking his

you can't really replicate – having a bunch of guys

elbow. Then earlier on, Ed Saltau was breaking up and I

just risking a lot and pushing themselves in that

told him, 'dude, whatever you do, whatever happens, you

environment and trusting each other. It really

gotta keep filming'. In a scary time like that, we were all

PIERRE-LOUIS COSTES, BUNKER PHOTO: NUNO CARDOSO

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P O R T U G A L R O C K S

CAVE, ERICEIRA PHOTO: PEDRO MOTAS

COXOS, ERICEIRA PHOTO: LUÍS RODRIGUES

DANIEL FONSECA, WESTSIDE PHOTO: PEDRO CARVALHO

CALHAU, CARCAVELOS BEACH PHOTO: RICARDO BRAVO

COSTA DE CAPARICA WEDGE PHOTO: RICARDO LEANDRO

NUNO NETO, ALGARVE PHOTO: NUNO MESTRE

MANUEL CENTENO, PEDRA BRANCA PHOTO: TOMÁS PAIVA RAPOSO

THE WESTSIDE PHOTO:TÓ MANÉ

AVEIRO PHOTO:RICARDO FAUSTINO

DINO CARMO, AZORES PHOTO: HÉLIO ANTÓNIO

HUGO MADURO, TROL PHOTO: TÓ MANÉ

JOÃO ANDRÉ, BUNKER PHOTO: NUNO CARDOSO

PORTUGAL ROCKS PHOTO:RICARDO BRAVO

RICARDO FAUSTINO, BUNKER PHOTO: NUNO CARDOSO

JAIME JESUS, PRAIA DO NORTE PHOTO: FRANCISCO RAIO

HUGO MACATRÃO, SHAKIRA PHOTO: NUNO CARDOSO

MAURO BANDEIRAS, PAÇO D’ARCOS PHOTO: BRUNO NORBERTO

TÓ CARDOSO, PRAIA DO SUL NAZARÉ PHOTO: HÉLIO ANTÓNIO

MIGUEL MANATA, SUPERTUBOS PHOTO: PEDRO MIRANDA

BERNARDO JERÃ&#x201C;NIMO, SHAKIRA ROOM PHOTO: NUNO CARDOSO

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Para os mais velhos era o Expresso Escorpião. Mais tarde, baptizaram de Shorebreak. Hoje é mais conhecida como Psychobreak. A direita de feições redondas que dobra rápida que nem uma bala rola na praia da Copacabana, entre o Posto 5 e 6, com vista para a Avenida Atlântico, que descreve uma meia Lua no litoral de Rio de Janeiro. No pico da sua performance, desenha túneis comprimidos que dobram impiedosamente sob um reef de tonalidade grená coberto de moluscos. Aos que se aventuram, são garantidos os tubos ocos e os lips desenhados a régua e esquadro propícios a shows aéreos. É a menina dos olhos dos bodyboarders cariocas e uma das slabs mais apetecíveis da América Latina.

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Nos primeiros tempos depois de desbravada, há cerca de duas décadas, os locais espalharam histórias sobre uma caverna que se escondia debaixo do pico e que engolia quem acabasse por ser engolido pela slab. Tudo não passou de uma lenda para afastar o crowd, o que acabou por se complicar com a emergência do Shorebreak Challenge, que ajudou a espalhar as coordenadas do pico. O campeonato a convite é histórico na região e na última temporada até voltou ao activo depois de oito anos sem se realizar. O Atlântico carioca, de resto, na passada temporada de Inverno, foi generoso para com a direita psicótica. O primeiro swell do ano deu sinal de vida em meados de Março. Com uma previsão tão animadora, o fotógrafo Fernando Amorim e o bodyboarder local André Paiva não deixaram passar a oportunidade e decidiram conferir in loco. André era o único bodyboarder na água num dia que esteve praticamente sem crowd, apenas com quatro bodysurfers. “Paiva, um verdadeiro especialista em lajes, não fez por menos. Ele botou para baixo nas maiores do dia”, contou-nos entusiasmado Fernando Amorim.

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Menos de um mês mais tarde, novo swell deu à costa na praia de Rio de Janeiro. Ainda nos primeiros raios de sol, quando muitos achavam que as ondas já se haviam despedido da cidade maravilhosa, alguns bodyboarders locais, amigos e convidados, como Fábio Cunha, André Paiva, Thiago Calviño, Renato Brandão, Pedro Rangel, Vinícius Pessoa e Alex Aquino, entre outros, não só acreditaram, como remaram para o mais tenso dos picos carioca. Sinal de uma comunidade ávida por ondas pesadas e pronta para explorar a bancada mais rasa do Brasil sempre que esta mostra as garras com ondas incríveis, capazes de gerar sérios estragos e danos aos riders, mas também propícias a sessões memoráveis.

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