www.travel i femagazi ne. com www. travel i fe. bi z
TRAVELIFE CAPE TOWN SPECIAL
SOMEWHERE I COULD CALL HOME CHRISTINE CUNANAN recalls a stay at one of the most luxurious and interesting hotels in the Cape
Photos by Christine Cunanan
the hungry traveler
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E
ven in Franschhoek, a small tourist town with only one main street, it took some effort to find La Residence, a beautiful hotel on a sprawling private estate on the outskirts, that has become a destination in itself. I’d first heard about La Residence from a British designer who’d stayed here on a visit to the Cape winelands. She’d returned to London, just when I happened to be there, and over lunch she’d raved about the over-the-top but perfect mishmash of colors and textures that she’d seen at this hotel. She was now eager to redecorate her own home in this same eclectic style. “It’s an art,” she said, almost wistfully, about the interiors of La Residence and the style of its designer, Liz Biden, South Africa’s style guru who also happens to own the hotel. “And I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to adequately capture this joie de vivre. But I can certainly give it a try.” I’d been intrigued enough by this conversation to remember to stay at La Residence when I did find myself in this part of Africa. At that time, Cape Town felt so far in every sense and a trip to South Africa hadn’t even been on the books. But last November, there I was, finally driving to Franschhoek after a very nice lunch at the Vergelegen Winery in nearby Somerset West, on my way to La Residence. We’d booked a weekend stay, and I was looking forward to two days of the exquisite and very personalized pampering that La Residence has become known for.
LOST AND FOUND However, we had to find our way to La Residence first, logistically and figuratively. Not only were we lost, but even when we finally reached our destination, we still did not know where exactly in the world we were. Of course we were in South Africa. But when we eventually drove up to the hotel via a winding driveway and past a paddock of Shetland ponies, we felt we could have been anywhere but Africa. With its stone buildings the color of mandarin oranges mixed with sunshine, and its vineyards and manicured gardens, La Residence could have been a beautiful estate in California, Australia or Provence.
A WONDERFUL START At the entrance, we were met with flutes of champagne and big smiles from the staff. The hotel’s welcoming committee immediately knew who we were and nothing as tedious as a registration process was even mentioned. Instead, we were encouraged to indulge in refills of bubbly and to inspect the premises at leisure, on our way to our suites. The moment we entered the hotel, we became privy to a world of color and life that simply changed my sense of aesthetics forever. The lobby and public areas were literally crammed with interior items and objet d’art of all persuasions. Every corner was pictureperfect, and they cried out for my attention.
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THE RIGHT TOUCH In the wrong hands, this hotel could so easily have become a warehouse of things simply picked up on various travels and then carelessly displayed throughout a cavernous lobby the size of a football field. We’ve all bought a vase or a sculpture that has looked perfect amidst the Oriental teak backdrop of a Bangkok shop, for instance, only to realize that it’s hopelessly out of place in the reality of one’s home after the holiday. “Look at these statues,” I whispered, pointing to two life-sized figurines of Greek gods by the doors of the lobby, blinding in their glitter of gold. “I wouldn’t take those even if they were given to me.” Then we gazed at the row of ornate Indian chandeliers hanging from above, so heavy with crystal and glass that they looked ready to drop at any moment. Ironically, these were attached to a vaulted wooden ceiling that seemed more appropriate for a farmhouse than a luxury hotel. There were also massive Chinese lacquer tables, French rococo side bureaus and modern red armchairs set on a polished blackand-white checkerboard marble floor.
LOOKING FOR A MATCH Design is highly personal and a matter of taste. However, even with this premise in mind, in no one’s world can this assortment of clashing styles ever be called an appropriate match. None of the pieces in this special hotel will please everyone either; but here’s the catch. Somehow, at La Residence, everything works together to present a picture of loveliness that I would so happily call home, even temporarily.
BREAKFAST AT LA RESIDENCE Amidst masses of flowers and intriguing décor, we dined on a lavish buffet that included fresh fruits from the garden, smoked salmon and cold cuts arranged beautifully on platters, and breads baked on the premises.
Under Liz Biden’s deft touch, this bric-a-brac of travels and inspirations has become a truly beautiful and elegant hotel that pleases the eye at every turn. I always considered myself creative; but staying at La Residence showed me just how far this term can really be taken. I paused at every step to take in images of sitting areas or nooks and crannies full of objects that I would never think of combining on my own.
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I would certainly stay here again, even just to bask in a world of abundance that so obviously disregards rules and norms. This was extravagance and opulence as I’d only dared imagine it, with Persian carpets exposed to the elements on open terraces, giant gilt mirrors and equally large paintings used almost in lieu of wallpaper, and an ever so eclectic mix of antiques and contemporary furniture everywhere. Interestingly, Liz Biden made no use of animal skins or anything obviously African. As far as I could see, there were few local items with a Dutch or French colonial heritage either. However, the resulting vibe is decidedly upscale African with a global bent – or perhaps it should just be called uniquely Liz Biden. After all, I know of no other place like this in the world. AT YOUR SERVICE With only 11 rooms, the service at La Residence is personal, warm and full of South African-style good cheer. From the moment we arrived, deputy general manager Nick Solomon and his team offered unobtrusive but flawless service. No detail was forgotten, whether it was a spa appointment, a request made at check-in, or a favorite drink for dinner. When we eventually and reluctantly checked out, Nic was at the driveway with a printed copy of the driving directions to our next destination.
A BIT OF INDIA IN AFRICA La Residence only has eleven suites spread out over two wings in the main building, and each one is unique in décor, color scheme and configuration. I chose suite #11, the corner Maharani suite, which is probably the best in the house. It had a large terrace on both sides that offered endless and breathtaking vistas of the estate’s vineyards and plum orchards, and the dramatic cliffs surrounding Franschhoek.
The suite itself is a palatial room of exotic Indian décor, reportedly created at the request of British singer Elton John, who is a friend of Liz Biden. Biden offered to decorate this suite for Elton John, and he had asked for furnishings inspired by a mysterious painting of a maharani that now adorns the study corner of the suite. The result is an elegant room furnished in gold and made even more royal by a king-sized bed sitting atop a grand marble base. It has two seating areas and an antique desk for writing letters and postcards, as the atmosphere inevitably inspired me to do. But the crowning glory of this suite is its bathroom-dressing room, which in itself is already larger than most hotel rooms. It has French doors that open onto a terrace with a lovely view of a pond, and an old-fashioned soaking tub right in the middle of the room. I happily spent hours here, getting dressed for dinner amidst soft lighting, plush carpeting and masses of flowers. It was the perfect beginning to a wonderful evening that included dinner at La Residence’s chef ’s table and then rooibos tea by the fireplace. Dinner, for me, should be a complete experience of atmosphere, food and company to rate highly; and this was one of my most enjoyable meals in two weeks of good eating in South Africa.
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ESPECIALLY FOR US
For dinner at La Residence, we decided to arrange for the Chef’s Table. We walked over to the hotel’s restaurant just after 8 PM and were escorted to a massive wooden dining table just opposite the kitchen proper and in front of a set of ovens. Adorned with crystal candelabras, mismatched antique plates and colorful bouquets of flowers, this had to be one of the most beautiful dining tables I had ever seen, even in a never-endingly eventful Travelife. Executive chef Lennard personally welcomed us to his creative and work space. For the rest of the evening, he was our host and private chef, taking us through a complex world of flavors created with bounties from his own garden and fresh seafood and meats from nearby waters and farms. We enjoyed a wonderful five-course farm-to-table meal that included a memorable beef tongue salad and a delicious stuffed and roasted pigeon that happily made me think a little too early of Christmas. We thoroughly enjoyed this dinner for the food and the ambience, as well as the excellent company. It was certainly a special experience befitting an extraordinary hotel.
SOMEWHERE IN TIME Meanwhile, breakfast the next morning was an experience out of another century. In the large hall that served both as a reception and dining area, ladies in crisply starched uniforms poured tea and took our orders for hot breakfasts as we helped ourselves to a picture-pretty buffet of fruits and cold dishes. “Would you like another cup of tea, my lady?” A waitress asked politely, upon observing that I was in need of a refill. After she’d poured me another cup of tea and left, I’d smiled at my companion and said: “I can get used to this.” We were due in Cape Town for lunch so a check out was definitely in order in a few hours. But I’d been dragging my heels about packing up and heading back to reality after such a pleasant stay here, in this wondrous world of luxury and beauty. Indeed, La Residence is simply out of this world. n
TRAVELIFE CAPE TOWN SPECIAL
“We had a weekend of gla mour, elegance, and style, a midst palm trees, lovely artworks and beautiful antiques from all over the world. It changed my sense of aesthetics forever. I would happily call this home in a minute.”
LA RESIDENCE www.laresidence.co.za
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TRAVELIFE CAPE TOWN SPECIAL
THE HUNGRY TRAVELER
THE ART OF GOING LOCAL JEROME VELASCO on eight delicate courses at The Tasting Room in Franschhoek
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nyone who follows international restaurant surveys will undoubtedly be familiar with The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais. This place has been delighting food lovers for years. With Chef Margot Janse at the helm, it has won practically every award in this part of the world. Born and raised in the Netherlands, Chef Margot combines uniquely African products with traditional European ingredients in a hugely successful way. She’s constantly challenging her team to do things differently.
PROUDLY SOUTH AFRICAN To me, this place is a celebration of South African flavor from start to finish, and it’s accomplished via intriguing combinations and amazing indigenous produce. There is no question her inspiration is Africa. Foodies come here for a really serious epicurean event where the food and wine come together masterfully; and Chef Margot’s female ascendancy shows in the form of delicate flavors, elegant portions, and plating treated like art.
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Quail with amasi
Chef Margot also served us a salad she called a “summer walk through Franschhoek.” Uncannily similar to the legendary “le gargoulliou” of Michel Bras, it contained vegetables from her own garden as well as from nearby Leopard’s Leap. It had baby turnips that tasted just like radish, mustard greens that gave it bitter notes, sweet beets, an emulsion of sorrel, a little olive oil, and various other veggies that she topped off with a butternut crisp. It was just a complete salad, unlike what I have in many places, my home included. A beetroot and onion puree sponge ball with spinach at the center (made from juice and gelatin, and probably blast frozen) with buttermilk labne (a type of yogurt) and a dill and cucumber granite provided a refreshing start for the real action. It was dusted with that indelible South African stamp of buchu powder. Buchu is a small, local plant with a pungent aroma, by the way. The beetroot sponge dissolved in our mouths. Obviously, preparation is vital as it can melt if plated too early. The granite was cooling and invigorating and the labne was thick, rich and creamy. But the buchu wins this one, with its unmistakably strong scent and flavor dominating in a way that is impossible to avoid. This is a famous dish and was featured prominently in the South African version of Masterchef.
Do not miss out on a highly accomplished eight-course Africaninspired surprise menu that uses a range of homegrown and unfamiliar (at least to me) ingredients such as baobab, chakalaka and buchu. It’s also best enjoyed with a unique pairing of mostly local South African wines. What a surprise it truly was. There was no hint of what was coming, and my companion was even getting several dishes that were entirely different from mine. In case you’re wondering how you’re going to remember the food afterwards, don’t worry. You are provided with a menu after the event, when it is time to reminisce the evening’s success.
COMFORT FOOD RECREATED The meal starts off with an interesting array of amuse bouche – black rice crackers, foie gras biscuits wrapped in edible silver, squid ink meringue and chakalaka and pap cigars. The last items are creative and delicious interpretations of South African staples. Chakalaka – boy, that’s a fun name – is a spicy tomato, onion and bean dish that’s a required condiment at South African barbecues, while pap is porridge made from ground maize. A delicious sweet cornbread baked and served in a red Lucky Star tin can arrived shortly after together with a nutty-flavored brown butter made fresh on the premises, courtesy of Daisy, Chef Margot’s adopted Jersey cow and preferred supplier of butterfat.
The jury is still out on whether the piece de resistance was the quail from Paradyskloof in nearby Stellenbosch, with amasi (a popular fermented milk in South Africa that resembles cottage cheese) and sweet corn; or the Farmer Angus (a biodynamic farm) lamb cheek and tongue with aubergine, black garlic, amaranth and millet. I still cannot decide, although the curry-dusted kingklip with yellow dahl cannot not be far behind either.
Summer walk through Franschhoek
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DESSERT, NOT AS WE KNEW IT The meal ends with a science experiment. A ball that appears to be the size of a dehusked coconut is made to resemble the fruit of a “baobab” (African tree of life); it disintegrates when warm honeybush caramel is poured over, revealing an incredible scoop of coconut ice cream. Nicknamed the “upside-down tree,” the baobab tree looks like it has been planted on its head with its roots sticking up in the air. It is an African super fruit high in antioxidants. Chef Margot’s food is layered with flavors and textures. But she seems to know when to push the boundaries and when to pull back, and this is probably why she commands the respect of her peers and has a loyal clientele that keeps coming back. This was an all-consuming four-hour meal that demanded my full attention. It had an excellent wine pairing from nearby vineyards and I had to stumble back to my room after having had too much. Several weeks later, I still think of her food and I’m still getting a better perspective of what she was trying to accomplish.
My personal recommendation is to book months ahead and to really starve yourself before heading off to dinner. Having had the opportunity to dine at the three best restaurants in country – The Test Kitchen in Cape Town, La Colombe in Constantia, and The Tasting Room in Franschhoek – was definitely one for the bucket list. This was South Africa. I had never been here before and I did not know what to expect. But this much I took away: none of these restaurants had any stuffiness, nobody lifted their noses with any dish they served. It was all proper fine dining with no pretension. People have said that South Africa is near the end of the world. I am in total disagreement. It is actually located at the beginning of the world, a place that has everything and more, and its food is just now at the cusp of discovery and recognition. n
The baobab
Amuse bouche
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Check-in
EAT AND STAY CHRISTINE CUNANAN recommends checking into the Le Quartier Francais after dinner at the Tasting Room
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o one leaves The Tasting Room in a less than inebriated state, especially if they have come specifically to dine here. Chef Margot Janse’s award winning restaurant was recently named one of South Africa’s top 10 restaurants for 2012 and it’s long been a regular finalist on international lists of the world’s best restaurants. Chef Margot herself was named Chef of the Year, and this alone is enough to encourage foodies from all over the world to make this a necessary stop on a trip to the Cape Town area.
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The biggest dilemma posed by The Tasting Room is eating, drinking and then trying to get back to a hotel somewhere else. The wine pairings offered with the tasting courses are excellent value and wonderful matches of local wines with Chef Margot’s food, so you must do both for a complete experience.
SO NEAR, SO CONVENIENT The practical and certainly extremely pleasant solution to having too much good food and wine is to book a room at the charming Le Quartier Francais (LQF) connected to the Tasting Room, which is a hop and a skip across the garden – if you can manage this at all, after an evening at the Tasting Room. A member of the Relais & Chateaux group, which is an assembly of small luxury hotels across the world that offer very personalized service, LQF offers cozy accommodations in bright rooms, a warm welcome, and lots of sweet touches that make it the quintessential Franschhoek experience. When I checked in, for instance, a tray of Parmesan cookies and an extremely sweet fruit tonic awaited me on a welcome tray. And after returning from a very long dinner at The Tasting Room, I was pleasantly surprised to find a Post It note on my bathroom mirror wishing me a good night and sweet dreams. You get the picture. You’re encouraged to call LQF home for as long as you’re in Franschhoek.
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ART, EVER SO NATURALLY Lovers of art and design, too, will surely delight in the touches of the creative evident everywhere, but in a particularly uncontrived way – a testament to the excellent taste of owner Susan Huxter. Lovely local artwork adorn every surface where there’s a wall, and public areas are all about comfort and unusual art candy rather than impressive statement pieces. Coffee table books are carelessly but ever so prettily piled up on tables and bureaus for guests to leaf through. Murals, sculptures and craft items are an integral part of the hotel, which is incidentally painted in strategic areas in the boldest colors, a la Luis Barragan of Mexico. Staying here makes you realize how much you actually want a rainbow in your life. Meanwhile, my room on the second floor of a building that overlooked the swimming pool and the hills of Franschhoek held everything I could want for a pleasurable stay. It had large windows, a proper sitting area and a great bed.
AWARD-WINNING BREAKFAST IN OUR BOOKS The good food doesn’t end at dinner either. I’m not sure if Chef Margot had a hand in preparing the specialties at the breakfast buffet, but I wouldn’t be surprised if she did. Again, everything is arranged so stylishly, as if a magazine photographer is being expected at any moment; but somehow you just know that this is how they serve breakfast everyday, in this little hotel full of art and beauty.
This was perhaps the most unique breakfast spread we had in a trip of 14 excellent breakfasts. The food was laid out on a large table in a very hip design way, in single servings; and the best part was that they all tasted even better than they looked. I loved my eggs benedict, which was served with an especially sour sauce I’d never had before – and even now I still hanker for it. But the piece de resistance was a sticky bun filled with nuts and a hint of honey and cinnamon that left us speechless with delight. We took a box with us when we checked out of Le Quartier Francais just so we could prolong this bit of foodie happiness a little longer; we knew we would never have a sticky bun like this again. And, yes, that sticky bun alone is definitely worth another visit to Franschhoek and to Le Quartier Francais someday in our neverending Travelife. n THE TASTING ROOM & LE QUARTIER FRANCAIS www.lqf.co.za
SAA flies direct to Johannesburg from Hong Kong. SA 287 departs Hong Kong everyday at 2340 hrs. For more information, contact Aerotel; Tel (63)(2) 884 8129-30
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SPLENDOR IN THE GRASS
CHRISTINE CUNANAN walks through history at Cape Town’s Mount Nelson Hotel
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C
ape Town is perhaps the most visited destination in South Africa. Within this lovely city dotted with quaint Victorian neighborhoods, framed by one of the most majestic mountains in the world, the Mount Nelson is a local institution that holds court as the grand dame of South Africa’s hotels. This was the main reason I chose to stay here, amidst a plethora of options ranging from ultra-luxury to cutting edge modern. For a first visit to this city I’d heard so much about, I wanted only the Nellie, as it’s affectionately called by residents, a classic and historic hotel with a colorful past, set amidst sprawling gardens in the center of everything. The grounds of the Mount Nelson are truly special as you are in the center of a pretty built-up city and yet completely amidst quiet and beauty. For the locals, it’s an oasis of elegant greenery that’s witnessed so many important milestones in their lives. For the traveler, it’s a welcome refuge after a busy day of sightseeing in modern Cape Town, to return to this Old World atmosphere. I am not alone in choosing the Mount Nelson as my base. Heads of state and world leaders have temporarily called this home over the last century and past decades, including Winston Churchill, the Dalai Lama, Nelson Mandela, and Margaret Thatcher. This is also the hotel of choice for celebrities, literary figures, and fashion personalities visiting Cape Town.
AFTERNOON TEA AT THE NELLIE The afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson is legendary for its sumptuous spread of sweet and savory, accompanied by a selection of fine teas. The antique Windsor Table in the lounge is laden with classics like black forest cake, baumkuchen and fruitcake, as well as fluffy scones served with clotted cream and preserves. There are also finger sandwiches, fritters and roast chicken, for those who prefer salty or spicy. Of course, these are best accompanied by the hotel’s signature Mount Nelson tea, which is a blend of six exotic teas including Kenya tea, Yunnan tea, and rose petals from the garden.
PRETTY IN PINK We arrived on a beautiful summer afternoon when the pinkcolored Mount Nelson stood sparkling in the sun, amidst a dramatic backdrop of greenery. The hotel was painted pink in the 1920s to celebrate the end of World War I, thus starting a trend among hotels in Europe. Today, its specific shade of pink – now called the Mount Nelson Pink – is famously and forever linked to this immaculately refurbished Orient-Express hotel. Meanwhile, entering the wood-paneled lobby and making our way to the back where an open door and a garden beckoned, we found many stalwarts of Cape Town society all dressed up and attending to the rituals of living in the kind of elegant venue that only the Mount Nelson can offer.
HIGH TEA ON A SUNDAY It was the hour for high tea, and ladies in pastel summer dresses with little boys in sailor suits and little girls with long ribbons in their hair mulled about the tea salon that’s just adjacent to the lobby. Meanwhile, in the garden abloom with roses and tropical flowers, couples and groups sat around tables draped with crisp white linen, sipping cocktails and champagne, some celebrating birthdays or christenings. It was exactly how I imagined the genteel life in South Africa to be.
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MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THESE
GREEN AND CLEAN Mount Nelson Hotel offers guests complimentary transfers to Cape Town’s attractions via environmentfriendly green Toyota Prius courtesy cars. The rides are on a first-come, first-served basis, but we usually never had problems finding a car to the waterfront or to the cable car terminal for Table Mountain.
Then I was shown my corner room on the top floor of the main building, decorated in pastels and classic furniture. It had a terrace that opened up onto the clearest unobstructed view of Table Mountain I could ever imagine — so there I was standing on my balcony, with the beloved icon of the Cape and one of the most famous mountains in the world right before me. After I caught my breath, I realized this was a moment for popping open the bottle of champagne the hotel had thoughtfully provided as a welcome gift, and for relishing the very idea of being in Cape Town and being lucky enough to enjoy such a scene on one of the finest days of the year.
HISTORY ON THE WALLS This 19th century hotel, named after Admiral Lord Nelson who died in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, is a veritable museum. Being a keen lover of history, I eschewed the elevator and instead walked up and down the staircase everyday inspecting the paintings and items on display that illustrated not only the hotel’s lineage, but also the history of Britain and South Africa, and how these two countries were once intertwined. There’s a portrait of Queen Victoria in the lobby and a large painting of Queen Alexandra on one of the landings, and old watercolor paintings of South Africa and a model replica of the Titanic on another. Meanwhile, in the hotel lounge, there’s an early 18th century grandfather clock that reportedly once chimed so loudly at midnight that it could be heard all over the city. One day, an irate guest hammered six nails into it, causing it to remain silent for 20 years. It was repaired, but happily it chimes at a much lower volume these days.
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Don’t miss A TOUR OF ROBBENS ISLAND A visit to Cape Town is not complete without a half-day tour of Robbens Island, South Africa’s notorious island prison where senior members of the African National Congress (ANC) and many of South Africa’s current leaders were once held. The tours, which include a bus ride around the island and a walking tour through the maximum security prison, are led by a former prisoner. See the historic village where jailers and their families lived, the lime quarry, the leper church, and Nelson Mandela’s prison cell. The island is accessible via scheduled hovercraft trips and tours depart regularly from Cape Town’s waterfront.
a t R o b be Te rm in a l
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TABLE MOUNTAIN AT SUNSET Make sure you’re on top of Table Mountain, one of the new seven wonders of the world and Cape Town’s most famous attraction, at sunset. The easiest way up is via the aerial cableway, which offers a short and scenic ride up. You can purchase tickets online in advance and simply bring the printout to the terminal to avoid the lines. However, the more athletic may wish to take a guided walk up or to explore the mountain by themselves on foot. The hike up takes approximately three to four hours.
Waiting for the sun’ s goodbye
A 180 degree view of some of the most spectacular scenery in the world
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Throughout the hotel are details, artworks and objects from another time that also speak volumes about the intricacies and charms of a very special kind of old-fashioned life. The only exceptions are the edgy and modern Planet Bar and Planet Restaurant, which are clearly more of the 21st century in décor and vibe. The Planet Bar has a sputnik chandelier, shiny leather chairs, and futuristic mirrors on the walls. At first glance, the streamlined design and metallic colors seem to clash with the faded elegance and patina of age evident everywhere else; but then I realized that the hotel also needed an atmosphere very much of today, for it to remain a significant part of the lives of Cape Town residents.
We had a nightcap here one evening, ordering champagne, oysters and the South African specialty of peri-peri chicken, and staying till late in the bar that was unusually packed for a weekday night. Until way past 10 PM, locals kept walking in for drinks and bar chow.
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SUNSET IN THE WORLD One day we decided to make our way to the top of Table Mountain at sunset, as this was on our bucket list. Realizing how nice it would be to bring food and drinks to the top of the mountain, we suddenly had the great idea to find a picnic hamper for our excursion. Luckily, the Mount Nelson actually lends out to its guests a beautiful Victorian picnic hamper complete with utensils and wine glasses. We ordered finger sandwiches and salads, and our basket of food was ready for us at the lobby at 5 PM. It was picture-perfect, and we had a feast on the ridge of Table Mountain as the sun was setting over Cape Town. Of course, our picnic attracted much attention, amidst people with softdrink cans and sandwiches in paper bags. One lady came up to us, disbelief and delight all over her face. “Where did you get such a lovely basket?” She asked. “The Mount Nelson,” we replied. That seemed to answer everything. “Oh, of course,” she said. “Only the Mount Nelson can prepare something as beautiful as that.” And then we returned to our sunset and our afternoon tea. It was a fitting end to a most wonderful stay in South Africa. n
MOUNT NELSON HOTEL www.mountnelson.co.za
HISTORY IN THE MAKING 1806 The property where the Mount Nelson now stands is named in honor of British Admiral Lord Nelson, who reportedly visited Cape Town twice. 1890 Shipping magnate Sir Donald Currie, owner of the Union-Castle shipping line, bought the Mount Nelson to build a hotel for first class passengers of his ships. 1899 The hotel opened to rave reviews of being “even better than its London counterparts.” It was the first hotel in South Africa to offer hot and cold running water. 1988 Orient-Express Hotels purchased the Mount Nelson Hotel.
REMEMBERING MR. GREENWOOD Several months before his death, John Lennon stayed at the Mount Nelson under the pseudonym “Mr. Greenwood.” He reportedly made his own bed everyday and meditated on Table Mountain. He spoke to his wife Yoko Ono regularly and planned to bring her to stay at the hotel the following year.
THE DALAI LAMA’S FAVORITE FOOD In 1999, the Dalai Lama stayed at the Mount Nelson and lectured on “The Four Noble Truths” as 500 people sat crosslegged in the ballroom. For meals, he only requested crispy fried chicken and ice cream, reportedly his two favorite foods.
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THE HUNGRY TRAVELER
Test Kitchen
WORLD-CLASS AND SIMPLY DELICIOUS JEROME VELASCO visits the best restaurants in and around Cape Town.
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t is a wonderful time for South African cuisine. Over the last few years, many of their chefs have achieved international prominence and recognition, mostly through a confluence of factors. They have come to discover their “sense of place” or terroir, allowing them the opportunity to appreciate their bountiful harvests and unique game and produce. Their inspiration has also been fostered through travel and international culinary events. Finally, they have learned the importance of working with vineyards, a key point overlooked until recently. In South Africa, as everywhere else, food is their lifeblood and it tells their story. Immigrants arrived with little more than basic culinary know-how but they soon adapted their lives to their situation, and with all the diversity their cuisine was born. In some ways, I feel privileged to have visited at this inspiring time in their restaurant scene. There are gustatory gems to be found in every city and every town. The chefs form are a passionate group,
too, constantly innovating and focused on breaking new ground on a daily basis. I found upscale South African food to be as good and as exciting as everyone says it is. It is undoubtedly world class, and the best part is that it isn’t heavy on the wallet. The bill won’t break the bank. South Africa is a country with a significant “eating out” culture. It has everything from restaurants focusing on traditional South African dishes – or contemporary interpretations there of – to a burgeoning fast food industry with international players and local chains that are available in most urban centers. Cape Town and its immediate environs, which include some famous wine regions in that part of the world, is the gourmet center of South Africa, and this will not disappoint even the pickiest foodie.
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A MIND-BLOWING EXPERIMENT 11 courses dinner and the best table at Test Kitchen in Cape Town Luke Dale Roberts is a brilliant chef who grew an international reputation during his stint at La Colombe. He brought this restaurant to prominence with consistent showings in the S. Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurants List. But like many great chefs, the time came when he decided to move on. Test Kitchen is his new outpost. As the name implies, this venue allows him maximum opportunity for innovation as a chef and the flexibility to go in any direction. I’m betting there is also the desire to show he can create a winning restaurant on his own and be the real boss.
ECHOES OF MANHATTAN So far, so good. In just two short years, he has turned Test Kitchen into a global culinary destination. Located in Woodstock, a trendy, gentrified neighborhood, it evokes the feel of a New York loft and possesses an industrial look with high ceilings, exposed ducts, and a red ladder placed strategically in the center to access local wines stored amidst multiple shelves. I loved best the restaurant’s open kitchen. It was like having the kitchen in the dining room (or the other way around). There is nothing quite like the excitement of a restaurant kitchen, especially when viewed from the best table in the house. Test Kitchen is a hot and highly charged atmosphere, with various smells permeating from everywhere; the numerous chefs and assistants were focused on their respective stations and the main man was barking orders, checking plates and making sure the show was running smoothly. The taste experience was made richer alongside this visual affair.
TASTES OF ASIA Luke’s food has long been known for its texture and fine but complex flavor, with an Asian influence – or, more accurately, an Asian sensibility. On the evening we dined, the Japanese influence was profound; the menu was peppered with words like chawanmushi, nitsuke, yuzu, green tea and sake. Time Magazine pointed to November 24, 2010, the date Test Kitchen opened, as the date “Woodstock officially became Cape Town’s hottest district.” That alone should tell you how good this place is. To do a proper and complete Luke Dale Roberts experience, I recommend taking on the 11-course gourmand menu. It isn’t as heavy as it sounds, as the portions are actually just right. The highlights of our dinner included a loin of seared marlin cooked over fresh thyme and rosemary, with an unusual partner: red cabbage prepared three ways (fresh, dried and powdered) and served with a horseradish emulsion to add piquancy. A perfectly seasoned apple and onion dressing completed this stunning dish.
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They also had an excellent lightly cooked trout topped with shaved, dried bonito flakes and an aubergine nitsuke (nitsuke is a Japanese simmering technique that yields a great umami flavor). Like the trout served at La Colombe, this was again sourced from nearby Franschhoek. Another memorable dish was the slow-cooked organic sweet potatoes, short rib, roasted bone marrow and compressed Japanese eringi mushrooms. These were served under a glass dome, which made for a grand entrance. The aroma was incredible when the dome was lifted, and the textures were so amazingly varied. Midway, a palate cleanser arrived with the intriguing name of “a bitter walk through the citrus gardens.” It was actually a clementine, lemon, and yuzu sorbet served inside the skin, accompanied by Campari and orange jelly. We were even “spritzed” with scented water by the waiter to complete the sensory experience. Dessert included a surprisingly light – I’m not sure how they did this – butternut and orange semifreddo with a chocolate pretzel crumble. But it was everything a great dessert should be: sweet, playful and nostalgic with a contemporary twist.
SEEING DOUBLE Luke included a very clever trick into our dinner. The amuse bouche was completely identical to the petit fours served at the end of the 11 courses. At first glance, it was like being served the same dish twice. However, the former was savory (including some with mushroom fillings) and the latter was sweet (we were served chocolate and salted caramel in a sweet wafer). The dishes at Test Kitchen are not swamped with multiple ingredients. Every single one on the plate has a purpose: the flavors “jump” right at you and the ingredients are expanded to their full potential. This is the most exciting cooking in Cape Town and the musttry restaurant if you have only one meal in South Africa’s fourth largest city. Moreover, prices are reasonable for the quality of the meal. Dinner for two at Test Kitchen cost me less than what I would pay at some neighborhood bistro in Paris.
THE TEST KITCHEN www.thetestkitchen.co.za
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HOTEL WITH A STORY CHRISTINE CUNANAN recalls the legend of Catharina, first owner of the Steenberg Hotel estate
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here was a reason I’d insisted on staying two nights in the wine district of Constantia, even if it’s basically considered a suburb of Cape Town only 20 minutes away from the city center. I wanted to experience the Steenberg Hotel, the oldest estate on the Cape and now an impeccably run five-star luxury hotel with rooms and suites spread across circa 17th century farmhouses on the property. Voted Africa’s best hotel multiple times over the past years, a stay at the Steenberg has often been described as one of the best travel experiences in the world. This was all the incentive I needed to ensure its inclusion in our two-week itinerary for South Africa.
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African tribal art, it was the kind of casually elegant living room I would have had for myself, if I owned an apartment in New York or London. However, I was in the Constantia wine lands; and while a flat with the feel of a major cosmopolitan capital initially seems incongruous with exactly where in the world I was, it felt absolutely perfect to me the moment I saw it. We were on the last leg of a trip that had included some of the best hotels in South Africa; and all were very different from each other, each one unique and with a fascinating story to tell.
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All the rooms at the Steenberg are beautifully furnished either in a classic or modern style, but the crown jewel is the hotel’s set of three uniquely designed heritage suites. Each one is practically a two-storey villa, and they’re housed in buildings as old as 325 years, with spacious public areas and private swimming pools. Some buildings even have National Monument status.
But perhaps the story of the Steenberg is the most intriguing of all. It’s based on a dramatic and feisty heroine named Catharina Ustings who lived through enough colorful events to rival the lives of her five husbands combined. Yes, she had five husbands, and legend has it that she married them in rapid succession, outliving all except one. As a young widow from husband #1 at the very beginning, she reportedly stowed away on board a ship from Germany to Africa to begin a new life.
I chose the 160-square meter Khoikhoi heritage suite for my stay because it was both modern and African. It was palatial if I continued thinking about it as a room; but when I grew used to regarding it more as a villa, it became an intimate and livable space.
Upon reaching Africa, she purchased the land on which the Steenberg is now situated, and began the lengthy process of establishing herself in her new country.
It was so nicely furnished that I had to catch my breath when I finally walked into the suite, even if I’d already seen so many photos of it online. Filled with crisp contemporary furniture and
Unfortunately, her life was full of disasters that I can only surmise made her stronger each time. For instance, a lion reportedly killed one of her husbands on their honeymoon night, and Catharina supposedly went out that same evening to hunt the predator down.
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The Steenberg has obviously relished every bit of her amazing tale. The estate’s main avenue and the hotel’s fine dining restaurant are named after Catharina, and her home is still preserved in its original state and very much in use today, albeit in a different form. Catharina’s combined kitchen and living room is now the common room for guests housed in that building. The hotel and winery staff, too, take great pride in her story – and understandably so. It was a great feat in 17th century Africa for a woman to dress up as a boy and embark on a long voyage from Europe into the unknown as a stowaway. And then she actually took this one step further by working, saving up and buying her own property instead of marrying a man with one. That’s certainly an admirable tale for any time.
CONTRASTS & COMPARISONS Catharina’s story kindled our imaginations. In contrast, everything about the surroundings of the Steenberg soothed us into an enjoyable and relaxing complacency so appropriate and much needed before our 18-hour flight back home. WINE & RIDE The Steenberg Hotel offers a short guided tour of its vineyards, followed by a gourmet picnic to be set up in your chosen venue, with a bottle of sparkling wine from Steenberg’s own winery thrown in.
We felt more like visitors at someone’s well-run farm rather than paying guests of an essentially commercial enterprise. The reception area, for instance, is more like an afterthought in the general scheme. It’s merely a desk in the main house, adjacent to a parlor where guests can relax, read newspapers and browse the Internet. We only went here once to checkout.
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“The K hoikhoi heritage suite could have been someone’s beautiful home in London or New Y ork, but with lots of African art and accents.”
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STEENBERG’S WINERY The adjacent Steenberg wine estate offers opportunities for wine tasting in an ultra-modern tasting room with friendly and knowledgeable staff. The winery itself produces a wide range of reds and whites. While you’re here, don’t forget to sample the Steenberg Catharina Red, a full-bodied wine with a complex and elegant structure and stunning character – just like the heroine herself.
Within a walk of a few steps is a champagne bar called Gorgeous by Graham Beck and the very popular Catharina’s restaurant. We had dinner at Catharina’s two nights in a row, including on what should have been a lazy Monday, and were happily surprised to find rant was alwa ys tau Res a’s arin it full both times. It’s a Cath rite. favo l loca A the oyst ers. great local favorite for full whe n we ate there. We loved grilled Chalmers steaks and pasta dishes, although the generous servings of salad and the freshly shucked oysters from a nearby bay won my vote hands down.
THE LOCAL SPECIALTY Of course, most people come to Constantia to enjoy the wines so we made sure to sample the local tipple. In fact as soon as we had settled in on our first day, we walked right along the vineyards on a one-kilometer route to the Steenberg tasting room, a sleeklydesigned ultra-modern venue where guests sit around a counter for small talk and a selection of wines. Arriving with perfect timing at the sunset hour, we claimed two bar stools and soon our attention was divided between the views outside as the sun said good night and the award winning wines inside.
“Where are we?” We asked ourselves. Our surroundings were stunning, but we could have been anywhere in the world. Constantia didn’t quite seem like Africa, and the Steenberg was among the most understatedly stylish estates I’d ever stayed in. It transcended borders and barriers. But that’s where its attraction as a great travel experience lies. Not too many places are truly able to merge the concepts of historical and cutting edge contemporary in an authentic and yet easygoing way. The Steenberg never truly does impress you; there’s almost no wow factor here. However, at the end of your generally happy stay, you’ll find that not a few moments left you gently delighted – enough to wistfully want to return. The couple in the next building were staying at the Steenberg for three months, and this was their third year of doing so. Nevertheless, I have to admit that out of all the charming features of the Steenberg, it was the lovely Khoikhoi suite that stole my heart. I could have stayed here relaxing all day, if circumstances had allowed. The suite had a full kitchen and dining area on one side and a living room filled with interesting African art on the other. The bedrooms were upstairs, tastefully decorated in neutral colors, under ceilings with ancient beams and porthole windows with wooden shutters. This was also where I had my best sleep in weeks, lulled by the sound of the wind at midnight and awakened by the songs of the birds in the mornings. n
THE STEENBERG HOTEL www.steenberghotel.com
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REMAINS OF A PERFECT PANNACOTTA JEROME VELASCO on La Colombe in Constantia
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o say that La Colombe is the most well-loved restaurant in South Africa would be an understatement. Wherever we inquired, people spoke of it with reverence and respect, with not one negative comment. Located in Constantia, an affluent suburb of Cape Town, this French restaurant with unmistakable South African tones – springbok anyone? – is a proponent of uncomplicated clean flavors and the freshest seasonal produce. La Colombe offers a gorgeous setting in the middle of Constantia Ulitsig, the most famous vineyard in the area, and we dined on a table that overlooked a secluded courtyard. This is the perfect venue for a special occasion or to impress a date who will likely gush incessantly at the idyllic vines with a mountainside setting. It is simply a super sensory overload.
OMENS OF THINGS TO COME We were warmly received even though we arrived early and their doors were not quite open for business just yet. I took this as a very good sign, especially as it is something I cannot say even for some of the top eateries in the world. Two other things are worth mentioning: there is neither signage outside nor any indication that this was voted the12th best restaurant in the world in 2010.
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La Colombe has a daily chalkboard menu, brought to you complete with vivid descriptions and product provenance from a highly professional waitstaff. A noteworthy signature starter was a beautifully light dish of a banging fresh Franschhoek trout cooked sous vide with quail eggs and chopped bits of ham. This was finished off nicely with a lovely, creamy asparagus veloute. And perhaps because we were Travelife — or maybe because they were not quite ready when we walked in – an “extra” appetizer in the form of an earthy, sweet, crunchy beetroot with a mildly tangy goat’s cheese and some crushed walnuts were sent compliments of Chef Scot Kirton.
THE BEST LAMB ON THE TRIP The highly recommended special was lamb “La Colombe,” which was really a trio of parts from their famous free-range Karoo lamb. This consisted of a superbly seasoned sous vide loin that was tastier and more flavorful than any I had had on this trip, braised neck and then sweetbreads on an onion and garlic puree served with fondant potatoes and a fennel jus. The sweetbreads were slightly crisp on the outside and soft to the bite, while the braised neck – which really tastes better than it sounds – is far superior to a lamb shank simply because it’s a fattier cut of meat. This is really the best way I know for a sacrificial lamb. It will leave you “oohing” and “aahing” long after your plate is cleared.
PERFECTLY SWEET ENDING But the highlight of the meal was the rose and coconut pannacotta dessert. My eyes rolled back when I shoved the first forkful. It was light and whimsical, and with great balance, served with an orange blossom yoghurt and a cashew crumble. This was undoubtedly my standout dessert on this trip, and a plate worthy of La Colombe’s reputation. It is still a fresh thought in my head, too, which means it is a top contender for the best desserts I have eaten in 2012. The food, the views, the atmosphere, and the fact that we snagged the loveliest table in the house, made my experience at La Colombe seem like a sensory overload. n
LA COLOMBE www.constantia-ulitsig.com
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NO SLEEP ON A VERY LONG WEEKEND JEROME VELASCO writes about 40 hectic hours in Johannesburg
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everal weeks before landing in Johannesburg, I had been diligently exchanging emails with the concierge staff of the Westcliff Hotel, where we were billeted to stay. I had very little knowledge of the place and every one I knew who had been there had only used it as a transit point to go on a safari or to fly to Cape Town.
But we’d decided to spend the weekend in Johannesburg anyway, and I’d created a rather lengthy itinerary of what we needed to see in 40 hours. It included fine dining, driving approximately 500 kilometers, bathroom stops, enough time to soak in the destinations, and, yes, some sleep, if possible. The locals were all firm that the schedule I’d mapped out couldn’t be done. Our friends had also counseled against it and even the driver I’d hired for our stay was aghast with our plans. But that didn’t stop us – two intrepid, energetic world travelers – from pursuing our style of touring.
Photos by Christine Cunanan
None of my friends had spent any significant time in Johannesburg – or Jozi as the locals call it. And the few who did dare spend a night were told by their respective tour guides not to venture out of their hotels. The city is reportedly one of the most dangerous places on the planet; in the past, it’s even been represented in the media as something of a war zone.
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NOT FOR THE FAINT-HEARTED For those willing to see the maximum that can be accomplished in a day and a half in the largest city in South Africa and its environs, please read on. After an uneventful 12-hour flight – barring a few moments before landing, when I thought I had lost my passport – we landed at 6 AM at the OR Tambo International Airport, hub of the economic powerhouse of Africa. It’s the busiest airport on the continent and gateway to this beautiful country. Johannesburg can really be daunting for the first-time visitor. Over 25% of the mostly black population are reportedly jobless, so crime is undoubtedly a fact of life. You need to keep your wits about you, use a little savvy and keep out of the bad areas. However, once bitten by this place, you will surely want to return. For the record, in the short time we spent here, we never felt threatened or in danger. As our guide explained, it takes an average of only 60 seconds for police to respond to a crime scene in the central business district. A CCTV system covers every street corner and has the capability to scan vehicle license plates.
SATURDAY, 9 AM HIT THE GROUND RUNNING We started our sightseeing almost immediately after dropping our bags at the Westcliff. My first impressions were markedly different from what I had expected. We drove through very leafy
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neighborhoods like Saxon, Houghton and Sandton that had impressive gated estates and multi-million dollar homes. The city is certainly a contender for one of the world’s biggest man-made forests, with an estimated vegetation of around 10 million trees. Johannesburg felt like a reasonable city, even if houses in upscale neighborhoods were generally enclosed by high walls with barbed wire. Later on it became apparent that the wealth disparity in this town is extreme; we witnessed both districts abundant with wealth and places with shanties sprouting everywhere. After all, this is a city founded literally on gold.
930 AM VENUE FOR HUMAN RIGHTS Our first stop was Constitution Hill, site of the new Constitutional Court and the notorious Old Fort prison complex where thousands were tortured and incarcerated, including Nelson Mandela and iconic Indian leader Mahatma Gandhi. The Constitutional Court is the highest in the land, and it decides on the most important human rights cases. If the court isn’t in session, you can walk right into the courtroom where the 11 chairs of the justices are each covered in a different animal hide to represent their individuality. I sat down on the Chief Justice’s chair for my photo opportunity. Meanwhile, the area outside provides a great vantage point to shoot pictures of downtown Johannesburg, which is undergoing a major urban rehabilitation, and the Constitutional Court is its most obvious symbol for gentrification.
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1030 AM ANTI-APARTHEID SYMBOL Nearby is the Market Theater, a vital player in the struggle against apartheid. This area attained notoriety in the 1970s and 1980s by staging political anti-apartheid plays. Today it’s a center for modern South African playwriting. Historically significant, it’s a paramount cultural institution in Johannesburg that today houses theaters, restaurants and a club. We walked around, took shots of schoolgirls who happily posed for us, and gazed at the colorful graffiti on the walls of neighboring buildings.
11 AM TOWN OF LIFE AND SOUL The action heated up as we headed to Soweto, South Africa’s largest township and synonymous with anti-apartheid resistance. Full of soul and home to two million people including Nobel Peace Prize winners Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, Soweto needs to be visited, walked through and experienced. The homes here range from extravagant mansions to makeshift shacks. Meanwhile, the significant landmarks include the Walter Sisulu Square and Kliptown, the oldest residential district of Soweto where the Freedom Charter – the document that became the basis of the present Constitution – was signed. Today this area is vibrant with busy rows of shops on Union Road thet are straddled by hawker stalls – cages of live chickens, bundles of second hand clothing and brightly colored vegetable stalls all lend the Square a distinctive township buzz. Adjacent to the square is the Soweto Hotel, the first luxury accommodation in the area. It’s a hideous looking building from the outside but much more presentable once you are inside. They have proudly hosted many dignitaries including Britain’s Prince Charles and his wife Camilla, and South African President Jacob Zuma.
Our first lunch in South Africa
12 NOO N Mak e mine Moy o On our first day in South Africa, jetlagg ed and trying to cra m a dozen things into a few hours, we found ourselves raveno us at noon, especi ally since we’d gone without breakfast. Our last meal had been dinner somew here betwee n the airspace of Hong Kong and Singapore. We were in Soweto, a good half hour’s drive from Johann esburg , but we’d told our guide : “ T ake us to the best restau rant in Johann esburg.” The term “best” is relative, of course, but he’d sized us up enoug h in one mornin g to take us to Melro se Arch, an upscale but casual shoppi ng and enterta in ment area with many dining choice s. We had no idea which restau rant was better than the rest, but we were sure we wanted a good lunch. When we passed by Moyo, its inform al and creative vibe and distinct local flavor called out to us. So this was where we had our first meal. Sitting outsid e on a perfect ly sunny day, we feasted on sa mosa filled with cheese and vegeta bles, and then ordered a heavy oxtail stew and grilled spring bok served with aprico t relish. The latter was the first of many delicio us spring bok to come in a never-e ndingly eventfu l Travelife in South Africa . - Christi ne Cunan an
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WHAT TO SEE IN PRETORIA Pretoria is the capital of South Africa. Don’t fail to visit the Union Building, one of the most beautiful government residences in the world and official residence of the President. Constructed of sandstone in a semi circular shape, it is on a hill with a commanding view of the city. Head for the Paul Kruger museum, which recreates the late 19th century when he was president. Also see Church Square, focal point of Pretoria Central and home to the Palace of Justice.
APARTHEID TIMELINE 1948 The National Party is elected under the slogan “apartheid” and an allwhite government is installed. 1950 Marriages between white and other races are banned. The Population Registration Act that classifies South Africans by race was enacted. 1952 Africans are required to carry identification booklets. 1953 The Preservation of Separate Amenities Act was established, wherein parks, beaches, post offices and public places are separated for whites and nonwhites. 1963 Nelson Mandela, then the head of the African National Congress, is jailed.
3 PM MUSEUM OF SORROW AND COURAGE After lunch we proceeded to the Apartheid Museum, the city’s piece de resistance. This is a moving and dramatic experience that chronicles one of humanity’s most shameful chapters in vivid detail. After purchasing entrance tickets, visitors are randomly assigned a white or non-white token and told to proceed to two separate entrances. I ended up with a non-white token and was kept apart from my companion and guide. This was actually unnerving and it served the purpose of making people feel the stigma of discrimination and segregation. Great museums make you think and provoke discussion. This one hit the spot, with its comprehensive display and multimedia accounts that provided chilling insights into the workings of the apartheid system, as well as inspiring accounts of the struggle to overcome it.
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630 PM SUNSET OVER AN INFINITY POOL We ended our day back at the Westcliff. Over flutes of champagne and canapés, watching the sunset alongside their infinity pool, we exchanged notes on our first day in South Africa and proceeded to a grand multi-course dinner at La Belle Terrasse, their fine dining venue.
SUNDAY, 3 AM UP IN THE AIR Well before the crack of dawn when roosters start to crow – 3 AM to be precise – we were awoken to begin a long day touring the surrounding environs of Johannesburg. First stop was a scheduled hot air balloon ride over the Cradle of Humankind, a 20-minute early morning drive from the city. It is a surreal experience that offers unparalleled views of the stunning African landscape. From the air we spotted waterfalls, crocodiles, giraffes and a host of wild animals. The beauty of hot air ballooning is that it’s peaceful and quiet, apart from the occasional noise brought about by bursts of heated gas from the cylinders. We landed after nearly an hour, to a reception of chilled champagne and orange juice – not a bad way to start a morning.
This is the story of the triumph of human spirit over adversity. Beginning in 1948, the white-elected National Party government initiated a process which turned over 20 million people into 2nd class citizens – thus damning them to a life of servitude, humiliation and abuse. Their liberation in 1994, with the election of Nelson Mandela as President, is a story of courage and fortitude. To me, this is the true history of South Africa.
1976 The Soweto uprising takes place, with 575 people killed by police. 1991 South Africa President F.W. de Klerk abolished the apartheid laws and appealed to draft a new constitution. 1994 Nelson Mandela was elected President.
2 tic kets fo r 2 dif fe rent en tra nces
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630 AM BREAKFAST WITH A GIRAFFE Later, we enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast buffet at nearby Heia Ranch. That was an experience in itself. Giraffe and zebra roamed the grounds; and, at one point, a full-grown male giraffe was no more than ten feet away from my croissant and me.
9 AM BIRTHPLACE OF MAN After loading up with enough carbs to get us through the morning, we proceeded to the Cradle of Humankind known as Maropeng, some 20 minutes away. This is home to one of the world’s most important prehistoric treasures. Africa has long been known as the “birthplace” of humanity; at Maropeng, we stood at the heart of the 47,000 hectares that made up this UNESCO World Heritage Site. From there, we drove to the Sterkfontein Caves, famous for the discovery of the skull of an adult Australopithecus Africanus that is over 2 million years old and reportedly the precursor to homo sapiens. It‘s really a series of dolomite limestone caves that contain the fossils of animals, plants and hominid ancestors. Underground guided tours are offered every hour and the Sterkfontein Visitor Center offers interesting exhibits on the origin of the earth, life and humanity – just like the History Channel.
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11 AM OFF-TRACK TO SUN CITY
DISPLAYS OF STRENGTH Johannesburg’s best museums for a glimpse of South Africa’s tumultuous history. APARTHEID MUSEUM This museum stands as a symbol of hope and freedom from apartheid. Overwhelming scenes are visible throughout the museum, including blown-up newspaper clippings, passbooks, and 121 dangling nooses representing prisoners who have been hanged. www.apartheidmuseum.org HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL AND MUSEUM During the apartheid years, protesting Soweto high school students were killed by police, including Hector Pieterson, the subject of a moving and worldfamous photograph. This iconic image helped spread the struggle of South African youth around the world during the apartheid regime. NELSON MANDELA NATIONAL MUSEUM The journey to end apartheid was long and strenuous for Nelson Mandela. This museum showcases artifacts and images about his life and inspiring story. www.nelsonmandelamuseum. org.za CONSTITUTION HILL This is an Old Fort prison complex where iconic figures like Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi were detained. Constitution Court, the highest court in South Africa, is also located here. www.constitutionhill.org.za MUSEUM AFRICA Revisit the glorious history of Africa via a remarkable collection of rock art and other artifacts. The museum also houses the Bensusan Museum of Photography and Geology Museum. www.museumafrica.org
Then it was a two-hour drive to Sun City, the “Las Vegas” of South Africa that opened in 1979 and gained fame for staging rock concerts, major boxing bouts, and illustrious golf tournaments. It has four luxury hotels, casinos and an array of outdoor attractions. We had a light lunch at the poolside of the Palace of the Lost City, the most unashamedly lavish and palatial hotel. My first impression was that this was a cross between Africa and Raiders of the Lost Ark with portions of Las Vegas thrown in. The lobby was massive, impressive, and even bombastic, with frescoes, mosaics, murals, and larger-than-life bronze statues dominating the hotel entrance. While some might consider this resort “cheesy,” it’s also an ideal weekend getaway for others.
3 PM A VISIT TO THE CAPITAL Then we rushed to Pretoria, which is also nicknamed the Jacaranda City. The administrative capital of South Africa has a much quieter feel and more refined atmosphere. Along the way, we passed the Marikana platinum mine, which recently hugged the headlines when a protest over wages turned violent. Dozens were killed, underlying the continuing tensions between the elite and the underprivileged. Pretoria is lined with jacaranda trees that shower its bright petals on sidewalks and roadways, bringing a lightness to the city. The first trees were imported from Argentina but now they have proliferated all over the country, with an estimated 70,000 trees in Pretoria alone. In full bloom in October and November, they represent a glowing lavender mass that’s truly a spectacle to see.
6 PM BACK HOME, BUT NOT QUITE On the way home, about three minutes prior to reaching the Westcliff, our car set off an audible sound loud enough to wake me from my half sleep. We were out of gasoline. Earlier that morning, I had casually looked over our driver’s shoulder and checked our fuel gauge, and noted it was full. Fortunately or unfortunately, our day had not ended. We remained determined to squeeze every last moment of our stay. In less than an hour we were out again for dinner at celebrity chef David Higgs’ new outpost at the Saxon Hotel for a degustation dinner paired with wines. Try that some time after having had three hours of sleep in two days. n
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“There’s a room
with 121 hangman’s knots hanging from the ceiling — one rope for each political prisoner executed in the apartheid era.
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The City with Personality Our stay in Johannesbu rg was a whirlwind of a tour with so many things done, accomplish ed and stricken off my bucket list – but with much still needing to be discovered, uncovered and explored on a second visit. Considering my long-standing association with fault finding, I really struggled to complain about our stay. Johannesbu rg is definitely worth a visit, not just as a connection to Cape Town or to a safari. From the outside, it’s all hustle and bustle. In contrast, Cape Town is beautiful in ways Johannesbu rg can never be, with the splendor of Table Mountain watching over the city. I suppose a proper analog y is that Cape Town is the pretty blonde girl in a bikini that everyone wants to see, whilst Johannesbu rg is the one with personality that you inevitably find yourself drawn to speaking to. - Jerome Velasco
SAA flies direct to Johannesburg from Hong Kong. SA 287 departs Hong Kong everyday at 2340 hrs. For more information, contact Aerotel; Tel (63)(2) 884 8129-30
AFRICA FROM THE AIR
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veryone explores Africa’s vast lands on the ground, but so few get to see its beauty from the air. We recommend booking an early morning hot air balloon ride across the Cradle of Mankind, for a scenic view of the area where everything all began for man. From the air, you’ll also see animals’ watering holes and the largest manmade dam in the Southern Hemisphere; and if, you’re lucky, you’ll enjoy a spectacular sunrise as well.
The balloon takes off from a launch site about 35 kilometers from Johannesburg. There’s a safety briefing prior to launch, and afterwards you get to share a tasty buffet breakfast al fresco with a couple of giraffes. By the time you’re through, it’s just a short ride and perfect timing for the opening of the Cradle of Mankind. AIR TO AIR AFRICA www.airtoairafrica.co.za
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ROCKY ROAD TO A RAINBOW NATION Deputy Minister of Ivnternational Relations & Cooperation EBRAHIM ISMAIL EBRAHIM describes his country yesterday and today
HOW DID APARTHEID AFFECT YOU? From a very early age, I’ve been conscious about racial discrimination and the oppressions of apartheid. If you were not white, you didn’t have political or economic rights. Apartheid made me a political activist and I dedicated my life to the struggle against apartheid. This is why I became a freedom fighter.
HOW IS SOUTH AFRICA NOW? South Africa has established a progressive and democratic system of government. We are now a state where the constitution is the supreme authority. Parliament cannot pass any laws that violate the constitution. We have an independent judiciary, a free media, and a strong civil society which keeps a constant check on government. We have brought together into one society, people from different races, ethnic groups, and religions.
WHAT IS THE PROFILE OF SOUTH AFRICA TODAY? We are a very diverse nation with four distinct racial groups: Africans, those of European descent, people from the Indian regions, and a mixed group we call “colored.” We also have 11 official languages and about four main religious groups: Christians, Hindus, Islamics, and Jews.
WHAT DO YOU LIKE BEST ABOUT YOUR COUNTRY? South Africa has a great history, as well as different languages, cultures, music, and cuisines. We have so much potential as a nation, and we are respected internationally for the way we manage our problems. We have produced great leaders, including four Nobel Peace Prize awardees. n
TRAVELIFE CAPE TOWN SPECIAL
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Pretty in Pink CHRISTINE CUNANAN recalls a short but sweet stay at the Westcliff in Johannesburg
D
riving into Johannesburg on that first day in South Africa, I still remember my mixture of excitement and relief as we entered the compound of the Westcliff after a 12-hour flight from Hong Kong and an hour’s ride from the airport on a very early morning. This was the very start of our African adventure and it seemed appropriate to begin it at the Westcliff, an Orient-Express hotel and Johannesburg’s most luxurious accommodation, and a beloved icon and institution in the lives of many of its residents.
THE ELEGANT OPTION For the luxury traveler, there are really only two options for hotels in Johannesburg. For this first visit, I chose to stay at the Westcliff, which is a classic grand dame and a favorite venue of locals for all the important milestones in their lives. It’s picturesque and romantic, with an unparalleled hillside location that offers an amazing sunset view from its infinity pool. Everyone and anyone of social consequence in this city troops to the Westcliff for everything from baby showers on the terrace, anniversary dinners at the La Belle Terrasse and wedding cocktails by the infinity pool. Locals with visitors from overseas proudly take them to the Westcliff, even just for a glass of sparkling wine, because to them this hotel represents what is good and beautiful about life in South Africa.
FUSION OF FLAVORS Try out these restaurants while in Johannesburg MOYO ZOO LAKE Set in historic Zoo Lake near the Westcliff Hotel, this is the quintessential upscale African dining experience. Tel (27)(11) 646-0058 THE COLOR BAR This is the city’s party central, with live bands or a DJ providing hip all-night music. Tel (27)(11) 482-2038 KIPPIES JAZZ INTERNATIONAL This historic bar was one of Johannesburg’s first multi-racial nightspots. It’s still a great place to experience African music. Tel (27) (11) 833-3316
BACK IN TIME The Westcliff is also terribly old-fashioned. It’s all about waiters in proper coats and white gloves, and a genteel service that harks back to decades and generations past. This is a slow and smiling world that’s fast disappearing amidst a plethora of trendy, stylish and very hip hotels and resorts sprouting up on the horizon almost as fast as the online media can post news about them. This modernization of the travel experience is happening not just in South Africa, but also all over the world. So when there’s a chance to stay at a luxuriously old-fashioned hotel – increasingly a rarity – I try to do so whenever and wherever I can.
BREATHLESS BUT ENCHANTED The Westcliff is a series of buildings that ramble up the hill of a very green estate. It’s mainly accessible via golf carts, unless you fancy an uphill climb on a winding path with pretty pink-colored buildings and old jacaranda trees. Ordinarily, this short climb would have been a sensible option, especially after the hefty breakfasts we indulged in every morning and the tasting dinners we just couldn’t resist each night. However, Johannesburg is approximately 1750 feet above sea level, and even a few steps on a mild incline is a major effort for the first-time visitor in the initial 36 hours. The breakfast at the Westcliff is not to be missed, by the way, for its fine dining service and lovely views. This is the most beautiful venue for a morning meal in the city, and everyone knows it. On weekends, it’s full of ladies in pastel-colored dresses and pictureperfect families enjoying their eggs benedict and smoked salmon.
THE SCENT OF A LION We were booked in Building #2, which is at the very top of the hill, offering views of the city’s northern suburbs. My corner suite, decorated in pale colors in a classic style, had two exposures and a large terrace with two seating areas I could have hosted a cocktail party in. It was then about 730 AM so the sun was casting a warm and gentle glow on the greenery around us; and the minute I entered the room, I flung the windows and doors open and went outside to feel South Africa for the very first time. I’d heard that guests can often hear the lions roaring from their hotel rooms since the city’s zoological gardens, full of wild animals, are just nearby. The lions didn’t indulge me on that gorgeous morning, as I stood on my terrace full of expectations and my heart beating rapidly. However, I didn’t mind at all. I knew there would be plenty of opportunities for face time with the lions on safari later on. Just then, it was enough to simply inhale the scents and sounds of a continent I knew so little of, but that I would come to love, from the comfort of the one and only Westcliff.
THE WESTCLIFF HOTEL www.westcliff.co.za
Long Journey
ACROSS SOUTH AFRICA CHRISTINE CUNANAN recalls her trip on the famous Blue Train
T
he Blue Train had been on my bucket list ever since I’d heard of this iconic set of royal blue carriages traversing the length of South Africa, between Pretoria in the north and Cape Town in the south, on train tracks laid out by adventurers searching for diamonds and gold over 140 years ago.
Last month, I finally found myself journeying to Pretoria after a 12-hour flight from Hong Kong and a lively weekend in Johannesburg, to catch this loveliest train in the Southern hemisphere to Cape Town.
PHOTOs BY christine cunanan
My imagination was further enlivened by its glamorous and yet exotic image. In my mind, it represented a most unlikely combination of gourmet meals, luxurious cabins, and vintage train cars; and, outside its picture windows, a forever changing scenery of charming towns, vast plains, lovely vineyards and fierce wilderness.
The Blue Train travels between Pretoria and Cape Town
THE LONG AND WINDING ROAD The Blue Train travels 1600 kilometers over approximately 27 hours between these two points, and I was joining the southbound journey with a stop in the diamond mining city of Kimberley along the way. Enroute, my 80+ fellow passengers and I enjoyed two four-course meals, one English-style afternoon tea and a most sumptuous breakfast in a turn-of-the-19th-century style carriage. I also had a rather good night’s sleep in a cabin truly worthy of being called a five-star hotel on wheels, with a comfortable bed and a goose feather duvet.
IT’S NOT THE DESTINATION In between, there was nothing much to do but to literally enjoy the ride. This was the whole point of the journey: to temporarily stop modern life as we knew it and just enjoy the multiple views of a blessed country in most old-fashioned comfort, attended by a personal butler and a phalanx of waitstaff. As we rolled onwards towards the Western Cape, the highlights of our days were, indeed, our three-hour meals that always began with champagne and ended with port and coffee. Perhaps it is the feeling of going back in time that sparks this; but these became lengthy events that launched spirited conversations, even among passengers who were meeting for the first time.
The Big Hole in Kimberley
THE BLUE TRAIN ROUTE The Blue Train offers two basic routes over approximately 27 hours, including an overnight stay on the train. The southbound trip journeys from Pretoria to Cape Town, with a stopover and excursion in Kimberley, the capital of the Northern Cape. Time permitting, passengers are escorted to The Big Hole, Kimberley’s main attraction and the site of its diamond rush and excavation activities. The northbound trip travels in the opposite direction, from Cape Town to Pretoria, with a stop at the quaint colonial town of Matjiesfontein, well-known for its Victorian buildings and 19th century London lampposts. Here, guests are invited for a glass of sherry at the station bar before the train continues on its journey.
Many ended up heading afterwards to the train’s lounge car, which is a cozy combination of colonial touches and African accents, to continue their discussions on life and the world around, over more spirits. This is how we found ourselves discussing the future of the Democratic Party in the United States and the pros and cons of a welfare state, seated around the bar close to midnight, on our one evening onboard The Blue Train.
SERENDIPTY ONBOARD The Blue Train offers as much or as little privacy as you wish. Passengers can dine in private tables or share open ones, depending on preference. We’d chosen the latter and were all the better for it. In a split second of inspiration at brunch on the first day, soon after pushing out of Pretoria Station, you see, we’d recklessly slid into empty seats at a designated open table without even bothering to assess the company already looking at their menus. Thinking about this now, I remember feeling a twinge of regret over this decision at that exact moment – but it was too late to back out without embarrassment.
The bedroom on the Blue Train
GLITTERING RECORD The Blue Train has consistently been chosen among the world’s top three luxury train experiences. It has also been named Africa’s Leading Luxury Train by the World Travel Awards for the fifth consecutive year.
“ The Blue Train is a most luxurious experience, almost unequalled in the world.”
THE CORDON BLUE EXPERIENCE The meals onboard The Blue Train are served in an elegant dining car reminiscent of the 19th century. These reflect culinary expertise and South African heritage. The four-course lunches and dinners often include the best of local ingredients, such as Karoo lamb, ostrich and venison. These are complemented by a comprehensive array of South African wines and spirits.
oard A fruit platter to welcome gue sts onb
F irst course at brunch
Coffee and rooibos tea to end the meal
A dinner setting for two
However, this was exactly how we met a retired British politician and his significant other, whose acquaintance made all the difference in our trip. The gentleman had helped monitor South Africa’s first democratic elections in 1993 – the very same election that gave Nelson Mandela the presidency – while the lady had once driven from London to Tehran, and backpacked her way around South Africa in the 1970s.
Savo ury scone s for breakfast
Obviously, they both had amazing stories to tell, and there was no more conducive atmosphere than this palace on wheels that we had boarded in Pretoria with great excitement. The hospitality onboard is legendary – the Blue Train is often among the frontrunners in the list of the best specialist train operators in the world, after all – and we soon found out why.
A MEAL LIKE NO OTHER Brunch, for instance, was a most elaborate production consisting of four courses. To go with smoked salmon and ostrich steak on that first morning, we were offered an extensive wine list. Our table of four decided to share a bottle of champagne and then another of white wine from the Steenberg in Constantia, a winery I had visited on my very first trip to South Africa, of which I have the fondest memories. The food for brunch was delicious, the wines were abundant, and the conversation flowed ever so naturally, initially held together by a common love for travel and a mutual interest in the affairs of the world. By the time port and cheese were served, we’d uncovered several inevitable glaring differences due largely to geography, religion and generation. However, we were by then fast friends enough to suggest having dinner and breakfast together as well. The result was the most intimate experience of traveling together onboard and having three long meals together, and not simply because we were in an enclosed but moveable space for the good part of 27 hours.
MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THESE The Blue Train is a most luxurious experience, almost unequalled in the world.
YS THE OTHER GREAT TRAIN JOURNE LD OF THE WOR The Venice Simplon-Orient Express Europe www.orient-express.com The Palace on Wheels India www.palacesonwheels.com The Rocky Mountaineer Canada www.rockymountaineer.com The Hiram Bingham Peru www.orient-express.com Deccan Odyssey India www.deccan-odyssey-india.com The Royal Canadian Pacific Canada www.royalcanadianpacific.com
Yet, what remained most memorable were the encounters with fellow travelers in the course of the journey, in a special environment that effortlessly took us back to gracious days before computers, mobile phones and the Internet quickened the pace of life across the board for everyone. It was a lesson on enjoying life in the slow lane. Just before The Blue Train reached Cape Town, we each were given a little gift-wrapped box as a souvenir of this most memorable ride. When it was finally time to pack up and return to the 21st century – a task I put off until I saw Table Mountain in the distance, by the way – I placed this memento in my suitcase and promptly forgot about it, amidst the busy days that followed, of sightseeing and discovering the rest of South Africa. When I eventually returned home, I opened this tiny box my butler Frank had placed on my cabin table that same morning I alighted from the Blue Train, in the sunshine of Cape Town at high noon. It was a tiny golden clock that fit perfectly in the palm of my hand, serving as a most appropriate and beautiful reminder of the necessity of stopping time, every once in a Blue Train sort of moon. n THE BLUE TRAIN www.bluetrain.co.za
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The Home
THAT BECAME A HOTEL
PHOTOs BY christine cunanan
CHRISTINE CHRISTINE CUNANAN CUNANAN recalls recalls the the charm charm of South Africa’s Majeka House of South Africa’s Majeka House
T
he first of many intriguing details that caught my attention upon entering the lobby of Majeka House, a luxurious boutique hotel in the most desirable of neighborhoods in the historic food and wine town of Stellenbosch, was the abundance of pigs in all shapes, colors and sizes.
“Karine has been collecting pigs since she was eight years old,” explained the lady who showed us around at check-in, observing my amusement. Karine is the owner of Majeka House, and today, these pigs have found the perfect home in the hotel their mistress has lovingly built.
These pigs were everywhere in a wondrous sort of way, making them impossible to miss. There was a huge black statue of one right in the middle of the lobby, that served as a display stand for coffee table books; and a gaunt-looking gold pig in the bar lounge, which is incidentally decorated rather incongruously, and yet ever so beautifully, with gold pendant lamps, porcelain objets d’art, Oriental carpets and a trompe l’oeil of books.
THE PERFECT COMBINATION
There was also a colorful, round papier mache pig on a counter. And when I closed a door for a moment, I even spotted a wooden one lying teasingly behind it. There was truly no escaping these pigs.
THE MAJEKA SPA This small but well-appointed spa offers South Africa’s first Himalayan Crystal Salt bed experience, a 45-minute session that involves lying on a specially-made bed of crystal salt, with deep relaxation further induced by light therapy and mood music.
South Africa overflows with beautiful destination hotels, but few have the style, elegance and fun – all three exist in equal parts here – of Majeka House. It was once the family home of Karine and her husband Lloyd, who decided to open a hotel and to move next door to make way for guests. Today they run the family business together, and apparently very happily so. Both are warm and friendly, with that unmistakable twinkle in the eye – and these traits have also found their way to their hotel, as Majeka House is exactly that.
I spoke with Karine and Lloyd only briefly during our stay; Karine had introduced herself when we arrived, and Lloyd had come over to say hello at dinner one night. However, the moment I met them, I couldn’t help thinking that we might have been real friends, if only several oceans and so many countries did not come between. Perhaps they unwittingly make all their guests feel this same way, and this in turn may explain the allure of Majeka House. In fact, if I had just stayed one more night, I would probably have invited myself to dine with them at Makaron, which is the hotel’s award-winning fine dining restaurant, considered one of the top foodie destinations in the country. We were seated a few tables away from them at Makaron one evening, you see, as we sampled their four-course tasting menu that included foie gras and delicious Karoo lamb; and meanwhile they entertained some friends. And from across the room I overheard lots of laughter, and even a few giggles, that made me remember one or two very enjoyable dinner parties I’d attended in the last few months.
Breakfast at Majeka House starts with a smile. Each plate comes with a whimsical drawing and a pick-me-upper that either makes you think or laugh. It doesn’t hurt either that the hotel buffet is laden with excellent Spanish ham, smoked salmon and the best canele I have ever tasted.
“Majeka House
is a seriously good hotel and no detail is left to chance.�
IT’S A GREAT LIFE Yes, Karine and Lloyd probably have much to smile about. For one thing, their life sounds like a dream. They live next door to their beautiful hotel in a most picturesque part of South Africa, famous for food and wine, and they own a restaurant everyone wants to eat in. To top these off, they’re surrounded by friends who own vineyards. This is certainly a tough equation to beat. However, make no mistake about it. Majeka House is a seriously good hotel and no detail is left to chance – even if Lloyd and Karine do make running a hotel seem like so much fun that even you will start fancying the idea of becoming a hotel owner as well, after downing one too many glasses of Stellenbosch wine.
If it’s that fun and that easy, why not? This was what I found myself saying, as I sat there in the glorious outdoors after a very good meal, taking in the smells and sounds of a summer evening in the wine country while observing the general happiness all around.
IT’S ALL ABOUT THE DETAILS The rooms have been meticulously put together by a local designer with lots of input from the owners – and the result is just the right amount of comfort and luxury, in a contemporary and yet quirky way. My suite, #501, was probably among the nicest on the property. Decorated primarily in blue, it was wide and spacious, and it shared a 10-meter private lap pool with the adjoining suite. It also had several seating areas, the kind of art that makes you happy, and a full bar
“These pigs were
everywhere in a wondrous sort of way, making them impossible to miss.�
that operated on an honor system. Against the odds, too, this suite even managed to have a relaxing view of greenery – in spite of the fact that next door neighbors and a street of parked cars were just meters away. I honestly didn’t want to leave Majeka House because our stay had been so uncomplicatedly nice. However, at just past 1 PM on the day we were supposed to check out, Karine’s assistant came to look for me by the swimming pool, to politely inquire as to what time we were planning to depart. Everyone else leaving on that day had observed the noontime checkout, and staying on was not a simple matter of options and convenience, as Majeka House was full that night. So we reluctantly checked out at the very last possible minute, and slowly made our way to our next destination. And all the way, on the long drive to another postcard-pretty hotel, all I could think of was those lovely figurines of pigs, and how they had so charmed me during an all too short stay at lovely Majeka House. n
MAJEKA HOUSE www.majekahouse.co.za
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THE PERFECT WEEKEND IN
JOHANNESBURG
PHOTOs BY
CHRISTINE CUNANAN finds 54 on Bath worth returning to
J
ohannesburg is not exactly a major tourist destination, in spite of its importance vis-à-vis the rest of the African continent. In fact, it often gets bypassed by travelers on their way to the
excitement and glamour of Cape Town and its environs, or to the adventures offered by a safari. However, Johannesburg appealed to me from the very first moment I set foot in it. This was after an overnight flight from Asia, on a glorious early summer morning in November 2012, with the scent of oranges in the air and the jacaranda trees in full bloom. And since then, I’ve liked it enough to spend serious time on three trips.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED On my most recent visit, though, which was for the equivalent of a long weekend prior to boarding The Blue Train out of Pretoria for a 30-hour journey across the country to Cape Town, all I really wanted to do in Johannesburg was to visit some favorite restaurants, try several new ones, and shop for African crafts. It was not an earthshaking itinerary, and for this I sought a low-key hotel that was big on luxury and convenient in location. I could not have picked a better hotel for what I wanted to do, on my third trip to Johannesburg in 14 months.
SUNDAYS AT ROSEBANK An upmarket crafts market called Finders Keepers has just started on Sundays in the covered parking lot of the Rosebank Mall, adjacent to 54 on Bath. It’s full of stalls selling everything from original clothing and handmade dolls to organic lotions and vintage household items.
BUSINESS AND PLEASURE 54 on Bath is definitely a corporate warrior’s hotel. It’s one of Johannesburg’s best –stylish and sophisticated, designed in muted neutral colors with a mixture of serious and whimsical art for an occasional splash of accents; while being streamlined, efficient and located near the key business districts. It’s also a great hotel for leisure travelers, especially on weekends, when the neighborhood of Rosebank comes alive with the kind of local color frequent travelers always are on the lookout for in a destination. I was unaware of this local color at 54 on Bath’s doorstep, at the time I booked my stay, as I’d decided to stay there based solely on the gushing guest reviews I had read online. Johannesburg still has a dearth of luxury hotel options, you see, compared to its more famous sister city down west, and 54 on Bath was one of the handful that came highly recommended. It was also one of the few choices that ticked off all the boxes for a finicky traveler like myself.
A WEEKEND OF COINCIDENCES So it was pure blissful coincidence that a wonderful weekend market had just opened in the adjacent shopping mall’s parking lot, and a crafts market for African products had recently been renovated as well, on the weekend I came to stay at 54 on Bath.
AFRICAN CRAFT MARKET This unique shopping destination features tourist souvenirs, along with intricate arts and crafts from South Africa, as well as from all over the African continent including Congo, the Ivory Coast, Zimbabwe and Cameroon.
These local experiences made all the difference to my weekend in Johannesburg, although I ended up checking out with significantly heavier luggage than I had arrived with, as a result of my forays into the local retail scene. The hotel is also connected by an internal walkway with the Rosebank Mall and its basement African Craft Market, as well as convenient to streets lined with coffee shops and casual restaurants – thus, sidestepping the security issue that plagues independent travelers staying at other hotels.
“xxxxxxxxxxx”
“54 on Bath ticked off all the boxes for the finicky traveler.”
LUCK ON MY SIDE As with previous trips to Johannesburg, I was lucky with my accommodations as well. It was a corner room on the top floor that looked out onto a quiet section of the city – and the minute I walked in, I immediately flung open all the windows to take advantage of a cool breeze wafting through my double exposure windows on a very fine morning. The other wonderful surprise here was the hotel restaurant, which was simply called Level Four. At the outset, the rather straightforward name alone inspired little zest for a gustatory experience and I admittedly had few expectations of being wowed by its food. However, our first meal here, which was lunch on the day we arrived, was satisfactory enough for us to return several more times for an equally enjoyable second lunch and a Sunday dinner. An added incentive was the adjacent champagne bar, which dangled the ever-present option of a bubbly start to each meal, literally steps away.
Breakfast
WHAT KEEPS GUESTS COMING BACK The menu at Level Four is pared down, in keeping with the overall mood of the hotel. Nevertheless, every dish we ordered over three visits was delicious, without turning into an elaborate production. It’s a testament to the chef ’s skills that we ordered practically everything on a menu of classic dishes with an African twist, and came away happy each time. In fact, this also captures the whole experience of spending a weekend at 54 on Bath, an understated hotel with an extremely high guest return rate. Nothing here shouts for attention, or even stands out for being glamorous in the usual way of five-star establishments. In fact, the 54 on Bath is on the small side, with a chic lobby that doubles as a tea salon. But at the end of it all, you will realize that you were made happy by your stay, and that you are very pleased. n
Level Four
54 ON BATH www.tsogosunhotels.com
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Special thanks to the Northern Cape Tourism Board
Cover stories by Ming Arroyo and Angelica Bayona, Photographs by Christine Cunanan and Ed Smith
NORTHERN CAPE THE LESS TRODDEN
4
E
SPECIAL
SAFARI
EXPERIENCES
Ming Arroyo visits some of the best and most unusual safari lodges in Northern Cape
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www.travelife.biz
veryone dreams of going on safari, and one of the best places for this is South Africa. The country’s tourist infrastructure and organization is world-class, and people who seek wildlife encounters will be hard-pressed to find better elsewhere. South African safaris are concentrated mainly in the state-run Kruger National Park and surrounding private game reserves in the province of Mpumalanga in the northeast of the country. In contrast to this famous safari area, the Northern Cape is less trodden but not less magical. It is truly one of the last frontiers in this beautiful country, and well worth a visit, especially if you are keen to get off the beaten track.
June - JULY 2014
1 XAUS LODGE
OUT OF THIS WORLD One of the most interesting areas in the Northern Cape is the Kgalagadi Transfontier Park, which covers a huge swath of land straddling the borders of Namibia and Botswana, and beckons to those seeking a different adventure. Having returned to South Africa every year for over a decade, I had always wanted to explore this vast, untamed, and semi-arid region which, though largely inhospitable, is popular among safari enthusiasts as it is still very much pristine and not commercialized – unlike Kruger National Park, which can be overrun by tourists.
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED Unfortunately, my plans never pushed through due to the sheer difficulty of getting to Kgalagadi. Unlike Kruger which is an easy four- to five-hour drive on good roads from Johannesburg, Kgalagadi, by comparison, is almost 1,000 kilometers away.
JUNE - JULY 2014
From Cape Town, it is even farther. One needs to drive 10 hours to Kimberley, and from there, another 600 kilometers to the outpost of Twee Rivieren, which is right on the border of Botswana and where the main gate to Kgalagadi lies. Of course, one can also fly to Kimberley or Upington. But flights to these remote cities are pretty pricey. Conditions in Kgalagadi are quite rough compared to other places administered by South African National Parks or SANParks, for short. There are no tarred roads in the reservation, and although it is possible to do a self-drive safari with a normal sedan, authorities and tourism officials advise the use of four-wheel-drive vehicles. Campsites are relatively few and far between, and facilities are more rustic and spartan. The weather in the Kalahari can also reach uncomfortable extremes. January is midsummer in southern Africa and the daytime temperatures are often in excess of 40 °C. Winter nights can be quite cold with temperatures below freezing. Extreme temperatures of –11 °C and up to 45 °C have been recorded. The best time to visit would be in June and July, which are South Africa’s coolest months.
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TWO IN ONE PARK
KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK Put two national parks together and you get a hauntingly beautiful landscape where red dunes fade into a myriad of scenic views. Known as Africa’s first peace park, KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK is the result of two countries’ national parks merging to create a peace park where tourists may cross international borders within the park’s premises. In May 2000, the presidents of Botswana and South Africa officially agreed to open the peace park, a large ecosystem that has been preserved to keep the habitat as natural as possible, away from human interference. Migrating herds of wildebeest, gemsbok, springbok, eland, lion, cheetah, and leopard can be seen in the majestic desert landscape in the Kalahari.
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The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park actually comprises two adjoining national parks: the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa and Gemsbok National Park in Botswana. It is possible to enter the reservation from both countries. The total area of the park is staggering: about 38,000 square kilometres, with approximately three-quarters of the park in Botswana and one-quarter in South Africa. Kgalagadi means “place of thirst” and is located largely within the southern Kalahari Desert. Unlike Kruger which has many natural bodies of water and rivers, the terrain of Kgalagadi consists of red sand dunes, sparse vegetation, few trees, and the dry riverbeds of the Nossob and Auob Rivers, which are said to flow only about once per century. However arid the place may appear, there is water that lies beneath the surface, which provides life for grass and the distinct camel thorn trees that are found in and around the entire area, growing in the river beds and around salt pans. The rivers of the Kgalagadi may flow briefly after large thunderstorms, attracting wildlife parched by the unforgiving sun to the water holes created by the downpour.
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June - JULY 2014
ANIMAL PLANET This unique semi-arid, near desert ecosystem has produced an interesting wildlife scene much different from Kruger or other traditional, high visitor safari areas in Africa. Most first-time safari goers immediately look for the Big Five: the lion, rhino, elephant, leopard, and buffalo. Unfortunately, not all of these can be found in Kgalagadi, due to the lack of water and rainfall and foliage, which most animals need desperately and in huge quantities to survive. This doesn’t mean, however, that a safari in Kgalagadi does not have its own set of rewards. The Kalahari is simply stunning and worth the trip. For starters, visitors looking for nice game viewing will not be disappointed. Kgalagadi is home to large predators like the famous black-maned Kalahari lions, cheetahs, leopards, and hyenas. Migratory herds of large herbivores such as blue wildebeest, springbok, eland, and red hartebeest can also be found in the park, along with the oryx, one of the most beautiful of African antelopes, which thrives in the dry, arid climate. For bird watchers, Kgalagadi is a dream come true with over 200 species of birds, including vultures and raptors such as eagles and buzzards.
JUNE - JULY 2014
TRAVELIFE STYLE We were fortunate to have been provided a private plane which flew us from Kimberley straight to Twee Rivieren, a trip that took just under an hour, thus sparing us the long land journey. From the air, we caught a glimpse of what to expect. Our pilot, a charming gentleman from Pretoria named Francois, pointed out the distinctive features of the terrain, in particular, the salt pans that we would see plenty of on the ground. Upon landing in Twee Rivieren, we processed our permits, and after a brief stop at a SANParks rest camp for basic supplies, entered the park. Within just 30 minutes, we chanced upon a cheetah sunning itself on a dry river bed. We spent a lot of time marvelling at this lovely creature and took dozens of photos, before it disappeared into the bush. It would be just one of many beautiful animals that we would see during our stay.
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XAUS LODGE NEED TO KNOW Xaus means ‘heart’ in Nama and is pronounced as ‘kaus.’ Its name refers to its location at the heart of the Kalahari. As a result of the unison of two communities, Xaus became the symbol of healing relationships, the uplifting of previously deprived communities, and the return of dignity.
COMFORT IN THE BUSH Our destination, which we reached after a bumpy but stunning two-hour sunset drive, was the Xaus (pronounced ‘kaus’) Lodge, one of the few luxury accommodations in the park. It is refined bush comfort, at its best, with a cozy lounge complete with a fireplace for frigid nights, a small crafts shop, a large observation deck for stargazing, an ample bar and restaurant, a swimming pool, and a traditional African boma campfire area to complete the outdoor experience. However, the highlight of the lodge is its 12 tastefully-appointed chalets, each with its own deck overlooking a vast and picturesque salt pan, with its fresh waterhole, where animals come to rehydrate. Xaus Lodge tries to bring its guests as close to nature as possible, whilst maintaining security at all times. The camp and all its chalets are elevated on stilts and connected to each other by a series of wooden walkways, several feet off the ground. With the exception of a low, steel-mesh barrier, Xaus is largely unfenced. For this reason, it is not usual for lions and hyenas to walk through the camp at an exciting but comfortably safe distance.
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DISCONNECTED FROM REALITY Guests of Xaus should be prepared for several days of isolation. Because it is so far removed from civilization, the lodge has intermittent Internet connection and no WiFi or cell signals. Electricity is entirely from generators, which are only run for a few hours in the morning and evening. We spent several nights in Xaus, and surprisingly, we never looked for these modern creature comforts. It is the ideal place to chill, de-stress, and enjoy the great outdoors. Kgalagadi is excellent for intimate encounters with nature. While the numbers and variety of wildlife may not be as much as other areas, one learns to appreciate the small things which are easily overlooked. One particularly special experience was a morning bush walk with our guide Collin, who hailed from Botswana and who pointed out a myriad of interesting and unique facts about Kgalagadi’s flora and fauna and wildlife. We were captivated by his lively outdoor lecture on animal tracks, insects, and the peculiar desert survival skills of the different creatures that call this www.travelife.biz
HOW TO GET THERE From Upington, take a 4x4 ride on the highway in the direction of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, and then onwards to Xaus. Upington is accessible via flights with stopovers on South African Airways.
harsh environment home. Later on, Collin took us on a short trek across a salt pan where we were able to appreciate its sheer size and dimensions. We also came across the remains of antelope that had been taken down by predators, giving us an idea of how truly feral Kgalagadi is. My favourite moment in Kgalagadi, however, was not a wildlife encounter. Rather, it was late afternoon cocktails organized by Xaus Lodge on top of one of the sand dunes overlooking the salt pan and our lodge. Here we sipped fine South African wine and spirits as we watched the evening fall and the rays of the setting sun turn everything into bright red and orange embers, under a quilt of blue and lavender cascading skies. It was one of the most beautiful sunsets I had ever seen and just one of the things that make the Kalahari a truly special place to visit. June - JULY 2014
2 TSWALU KALAHARI
WHERE THE LIONS MARCH The pilot of our light aircraft circled around the Kalahari desert to give us a better view of the vast wilderness before touching down on the private airstrip of the remote, luxurious Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve. The 100,000 hectare Tswalu Kalahari private game reserve is the largest in South Africa and it’s owned by the Oppenheimer family, the founders of DeBeers diamonds. The game reserve only accepts no more than 30 guests at a time, allowing each guest to fully discover the beauty of the landscape and the wildlife that inhabits it. The reserve itself is home to 80 mammal species and over 240 bird species, probably the most famous of which is the Kalahari lions, known for their impressive size and beautiful black manes.
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The Kalahari Desert The word “Kalahari” is derived from the African Tswana word Kgala, meaning “the great thirst”, or Khalagari, meaning “a waterless place.” However, the southern Kalahari, where Tswalu is located, receives more rain than the rest of the desert, allowing it to support a large diversity of life not expected from an arid environment. It is for this reason that it is frequently referred to as the “Green Desert.”
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OPPENHEIMER FAMILY South African businessman Nicholas Oppenheimer is the chairman of De Beers Consolidated Mines, the world’s largest diamond producer. He inherited his wealth from the De Beers business, which was founded by Cecil John Rhodes in 1888. In Forbes magazine’s November 2013 issue, Oppenheimer ranked 139th globally and first in South Africa with a net worth of $6.8 billion. In the late 1990s, the Oppenheimers moved into retail and jewellery manufacturing and stopped stockpiling rough diamond supply. In 2001, they took their company private after being on the Johannesburg Stock Exchange.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS The Kalahari is a year-round malaria-free zone requiring no medication. No need for uncomfortable, vivid dream-inducing anti-malaria meds. Being a safari enthusiast and a fan of all things African, I was very excited for my adventure to begin. Soon after landing, we met our ranger-guide Nicole who brought us to the lodge to freshen up. We stayed at a luxurious clay suite with an indoor and outdoor bath at the Tswalu Tarkuni house, which is the private villa of the Oppenheimer family at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Emphasis must be placed on warm service from the hotel’s unobtrusive staff, who pay attention to every detail with charm and friendliness. The lodge has a private chef named Marcel who provides African cuisine, above all else – or just about anything we wanted to eat. My only request was to eat malva pudding for dessert during dinner.
TRAWLING THE ANIMAL KINGDOM Bags unpacked, zoom camera in my hand, my trusty Steiner binoculars around my neck, and we were ready for our first game drive. We waited until late afternoon to start, as the temperatures in the Kalahari desert can be quite scorching. Nicole, our rangerguide, asked what we wanted to see on the game drive.
THE PROOF OF THE PUDDING Malva pudding is a sweet, South African baked dessert from Cape Dutch, which is made of eggs, flour, and butter, and flavored with apricot jam. Its name is derived from the malvacea, a type of wine served with it. This spongy pudding with a caramelized top is best served hot with custard or ice cream. No trip to South Africa is complete without eating this dessert.
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“I would be very happy if I saw the Kalahari lion,” I replied. Shortly after, we spotted a carcass of a 15-foot giraffe in the bushes. According to Nicole, the animal was attacked and eaten by lions just the previous day. The kill was so recent that I could still see the orange spotted skin on the poor animal. Such is life in the animal kingdom. Our guide then pointed out fresh lion tracks on the red desert soil. We circled the location in the hopes of seeing the lions. After about 30 minutes of driving and still no lion, Nicole informed us that she would be going down from the vehicle with another ranger to follow the lion tracks and look for the animals in the bushes.
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WHAT’S STEWING? Dutch influence in South Africa is best seen through the potjie stew. This dish is traditionally cooked outdoors in a cast iron three-legged pot called the potjie, a variation of a Dutch oven. It is usually made with venison and an assortment of vegetables such as potatoes and corn, and seasoned with Dutch-Malay spices which give it a distinct flavor. The stew is cooked for approximately six hours, and stirring the stew is usually frowned upon.
WINE AND DANGER Armed with a handful of bullets, a rather large shotgun, and sheer guts and determination to show us what we came here for, she told us not to leave the vehicle at all costs. Her strict instructions: have some drinks and wait for them patiently to come back. As our group was enjoying chardonnay while waiting, our guides came back to the 4x4 vehicle with the news that there was a pride of lions not far away. They spotted the lions on foot and quickly headed back to us before the lions decided to hunt them. I asked Nicole if she had ever gotten into a scary situation while on foot looking for lions. “Never with lions,” she said. “Just with a rhino who decided to run after my group in the car!” You just need to be careful and ready for anything.
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So off we went in a Land Rover to get as close as we could to the lions. We weren’t disappointed. There was a pride of eight lions lying and rolling on the grass under a shade. Young cubs, female lions, and a black-maned male Kalahari lion littered the grounds. It was quite a majestic sight. As we got our fill of pictures, we headed off to go look for more game. By this time the temperatures had suddenly dropped in the desert. It was very cold, making me realize that my lightweight clothing was not suited for the end of a late afternoon drive in the Kalahari desert. Our guides passed around warm blankets in the open safari game vehicle as we made our way back to the lodge. For dinner, Chef Marcel surprised us with a traditional outdoor African braai dinner under the stars. And of course, the delicious Malva pudding – making it a truly sumptuous way to end an adventurepacked day. www.travelife.biz
LICENSE TO GRILL The word braaivleis is an African term for roasted meat. Braai means barbecue or roast, and vleis means meat. It also refers to a cooking technique or equipment. A BRAAI DINNER is a traditional occasion in South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia with specific traditions and norms. Men usually roast the meat as they are gathered around the braaistand (fire or grill), while women prepare other dishes like pap (porridge), salads, desserts, and vegetables. However, only one person is in charge of the cooking – known as the braaier (chef). Braaing is usually done during summer, when everyone gathers around the fire to eat outdoors.
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On the day we left Tswalu, driving to the airstrip to fly back to Kimberley, we had an unexpected 30-minute delay. The dirt road we were travelling had a pride of 12 lions marching down headon towards our vehicle. Led by presumably the head lionness, they formed two lines walking down the road just like soldiers marching. We quickly moved and parked to the side to let them pass. The lions were so near us, and at one point they got very curious and stopped to inspect our car. I was quite freaked out as I was at the passenger seat nearest the lions. The vehicle had no door or window to protect me should they decide to grab a bite. The guides told us not to stand up and make sounds so as not to disturb the pride as they walked. With my heart beating fast, I put a bag between myself and the edge of the seat – as if that would help. The sight of the lions marching so close to me was quite a punctuation to our beautiful stay at Tswalu Kalahari.
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WHAT TO BRING
Zoom camera
Powerful small binoculars for game viewing
Sunblock
Shades
Lightweight clothing
Jacket or Safari hat
WHAT TO WEAR Lightweight clothing during the day. Jacket and pants at night
Tip: Refrain from wearing white colors, as it gets dusty quickly in the desert while on game drives.
ON THE TABLE PEAK LEVEL The KORANNABERG MOUNTAINS have an average elevation of 1,502 meters above sea level. Its name comes from the Korannas, a tribe who settled in the area in the early 1800s. Korannaberg’s area is not cultivated and most of its natural vegetation is still intact. It has a semi-arid climate and is classified as a subtropical desert with a subtropical desert scrub biozone. Many activities may be done at the foot of the mountains such as quad bike adventures, hiking, rock climbing, abseiling, paintball, horseback riding, and African drumming.
South Africa’s national dish, the BOBOTIE or bobotjie, consists of spiced minced meat and fruit with a creamy golden egg-custard topping. It is served with pilaf rice and sambals with chopped tomatoes, coconut, banana, nuts and chutney, and other sprinkly bits. It is served either hot or cold, and is usually compared to a British shepherd’s pie without the mashed potatoes. Similar to a beef jerky, the BILTONG is a sun-dried salted and spiced meat snack in South Africa. From the Dutch word bil meaning “buttock” and tong meaning “strip,” the biltong comes from various types of meat such as eland, kudu or ostrich. The Voertrekkers first made it in the 1830s to preserve meat as a snack during their long hot trek. The biltong can be eaten as a snack used as a flavour enhancer for dishes.
TSWALU KALAHARI NEED TO KNOW “Kgala” which means the great thirst or “Kgalagadi” meaning waterless place is where the name Kalahari was derived. Kalahari has remained a true wilderness area because of its harsh environment, unsuitable for develop.
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HOW TO GET THERE There are no commercial flights available, but charter flights to Tsuwalu from Johannesburg and Cape Town can be arranged via Tsuwalu Kalahari.
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3 MATTANU GAME RESERVE
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AN ABUNDANCE OF ANTELOPES Inhabiting the greater parts of South Africa’s savannahs, the roan and sable antelope are sometimes difficult to tell apart because they both have white underbellies, cheeks, chins, and eyebrows as well as backward curving horns. But the roan antelope was named for its reddish brown color, black facemask, brown coat, and shorter mane running from the chin to the chest, while the sable antelope has white facial stripes and the males have a black complexion for. Their habitat preference makes this species of antelopes very rare. As they are intolerant of severe cold, these species graze in the areas where there is abundant vegetation that allows them to protect themselves against colds and winds. Open savannahs with tall grasses and trees, sandy soil and drinking surfaces are among their habitat preferences.
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS WITH THE RARE 5 Mattanu Private Game Reserve is located approximately 50 km northwest of the diamond city of Kimberley. This 2,900 hectare reserve has been owned and operated by the Kriek family since 1991. Dr Johann Kriek, a wildlife veterenarian originally from Zimbabwe, imported 95 endangered Roan antelope and 65 rare Sable antelope species into South Africa from Malawi. The family’s passion for conservation is seen in their hands-on approach to caring for all the wild, exotic animals in an impeccable reserve. What sets apart Mattanu from other safari experiences is the hands-on experience with Dr. Kriek’s animal breeding and conservation programs. A traditional safari experience includes sitting in a 4x4 vehicle driven by a ranger looking for the Big Five. Not in Mattanu. There are no dangerous predators in Mattanu so one is allowed to alight from the vehicles to go near the animals. It’s a different kind of safari experience. Equally breathtaking is the proximity to and opportunity for interaction with animals that one can experience. For those looking for an andrenalin rush, witness Dr. Kriek fly around in a helicopter with his pilot son Johann who shoots a shotgun from the air to dart animals. The intent of the exercise is not to harm the animals but actually to tag and check if they were disease-free. I was in awe whilst viewing the conservation programs of very rare Roan antelope, sable, and wildebeest. I was even able to venture out – albeit with trepidation – and try my hand at vaccinating, with a rather large injection, these animals for bovine tuberculosis, anthrax, and other diseases you only hear about in the news. One can also spray the animals’ behinds for ticks and fleas. JUNE - JULY 2014
As a dog lover, the experience was similar to the regular spraying that my golden retriever Max gets with Revolution anti-flea medication – except that the animals were asleep and they weighed an average of 400 lbs each. Such is the extent that the Kriek family does in caring for the conservation of the animals.
A FAMILY AFFAIR The game reserve is perfect for families because there are plenty of things to do for every member of the family. Couples or families can can drive around the reserve to see the rare Roan antelope, sable antelope, the oryx, warthogs, giraffes, buffalo, royal oryx, golden oryx, golden gnu, black impala, tsessebe, Livingstone eland and springboks. In the afternoon, I drove around in a quad 4x4 motorbike through the bumpy sand dunes and indigenous Camelthorn trees, taking in the beauty and seclusion of the area. Driving around on a motorbike allows you to enjoy a different and exhilarating safari experience. One is literally able to drive alongside animals on one’s own. It was a thrill weaving my way past the antelope and giraffe on the reserve. Or if you aren’t really all that adventurous, you can just relax in the pool or get a massage.
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CHOW DOWN IN A THICKET Enjoy a romantic dinner in the bush at the Bushveld Savanna Farm on Mattanu Private Game Reserve. Aside from the sumptuous dinner served, the highlight is being one with nature amongst antelopes under the African sky, while surrounded by lanterns, listening to the cacophony of trampling hooves and howls.
MATTANU NEED TO KNOW Located in Kimberly, the capital of South Africa’s Northern Cape Province, Mattanu Private Game Reserve takes pride in offering luxurious lodging facility amidst lush Camelthorn trees. It is the only private reserve in Africa that has an extensive breeding program of roan, sable, buffalo, royal and golden oryx, golden gnu, black impala, tsessebe and Livingstone eland.
NOT JUST A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND
A BIRD’S EYE VIEW
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After driving around the reserve and getting close to the animals, I was able to experience taking in the beauty from the air. I was flown in a R44, a four-seater helicopter, on a tour around the reserve by Johann Jr., Dr. Johann’s son. We viewed the lodge from the helicopter as we followed herds of wildebeest and giraffes.
The city of Kimberley in the Northern Cape has considerable historical significance due to its diamond mining past. The first diamonds here were found on the farm belonging to the De Beers brothers. The ensuing scramble for claims led to the place being called New Rush, later renamed Kimberley.
It was quite a breathtaking site to watch the animals run so fast and gracefully. We passed a row of small diamond mines as Johann took me to the nearby town of Kimberly. There we landed at the Kriek’s private landing pad by the De Beers Big Hole Diamond Mine. I was equally excited by the animals, helicopter ride, and the opportunity to shop for conflict free diamonds right by the famous Big Hole.
In 1888, the leaders of the various mines decided to merge the separate diggings into one big company known as De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited. By 1914, at the Big Hole (where the helicopter I was riding landed), over 22 million tons of earth had been excavated, yielding an epic 14,504,566 carats of diamonds. Work on the mine stopped forever after it was considered the largest manually dug excavation on earth. While the Big Hole mine may be out of commission, there are still many diamond mines and diamonds to be bought in the area.
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There really is truly something for everyone, especially for the diamond lover. I entered the Jewel Box, a jewellery store at the site of the Big Hole. The place is run by the Lundt family, an old and trusted family from Kimberley. I was told that the family was handpicked by the De Beers group to set up shop in the area. The jewelry store is not a tourist trap jewelry center either, as one would expect from the usual stores around tourist destinations. There are no fast talking sellers here, trying to sell overpriced items. In fact, the challenge is in trying to get the elegant old lady minding the store to take you seriously and give you some of her time.
INTO THE WILD
Oryx An oryx is one of the many species of large antelopes, a genus found mostly in the arid parts of the Africa and Arabian peninsulas. A certified desert animal, they have long, spear-like horns, horse-like necks and pale colored fur that contrast with the dark markings on their faces and legs. They typically feed on thorny shrubs and coarse grasses, as well as on wild melons, roots and tubers.
I was happy to note very fare prices and a large, dazzling collection of diamonds to choose from at different quality ranges and different price points to suit a small or large budget. After patiently waiting for me to do some shopping, Johann whisked me back to the game reserve and into the bush to experience a bushveld dinner under the stars. This was a nice and relaxing way to end my eventful stay at Mattanu. I’ll definitely be returning one day with my kids to experience a rare, hands-on safari. www.mattanu.com
Warthog A unique specie found in the African savannahs, the warthog, which is also known locally as vlakvark, meaning “pig of the plains,” is best identified by the two protruding tusks curving upwards from the sides of its snout. These endearing-looking animals are also distinguished by the thick protective pads on their head called “warts,” which earned them their name. They kneel on their knees to eat short grasses, bulbs, tubers and roots through their snouts, although they also sometimes feed on earthworms and small invertebrates during the wet season.
Tsessebe Also known as sassaby, common tsessebe are large animals found in South Africa, Angola, Zambia, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Swaziland. They are characterized by their chestnut brown color, white underbellies, and horns ranging from 37 cm for females to 40 cm for males. These herbivores are found in open plains and wooded savannahs.
Livingstone Eland Coming from the Bovidae family, the Livingstone eland was first described by Peter Simon Pallas in 1766. They are best identified by their grey to red brown color, white chevron horns, and tussles of hair in the forehead just like big bulls. They also have white stripes on their front legs. They graze on wild fruits and are best adapted to a dry hot climate.
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4 KIMBERLEY
DIAMONDS AND THE DESERT When Erasmus Jacobs found a small shiny pebble on the banks of the Orange River in 1866, he perhaps failed to foresee that his discovery would forever change the course of the history of the Northern Cape – the dry, semi-arid region of South Africa that today straddles Namibia and Botswana.
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He showed it to his father, who, not realizing the stone’s value, sold it shortly after to a certain Schalk van Niekerk. The stone changed hands several times, and was subsequently cut and polished, eventually emerging as the 21.25 carat diamond known as the “Eureka.” Several years later, van Niekerk sold another huge diamond, also found in the area, which would become known all over the world as the “Star of South Africa.”
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The discovery in 1869 of an even larger 83-carat diamond on the slopes of Colesberg Kopje, on a farm belonging to the De Beers brothers, further fueled interest in the territory. Within a month, 800 claims were cut into the hill, as thousands of men toiled day and night to find these most precious of gems. The hill, which was was eventually reduced over time, became the world-famous Kimberley mine.
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THE EUREKA DIAMOND Reportedly over 21 carats in its natural state, the Eureka Diamond is South Africa’s first ever recorded, authenticated diamond. Many hands touched the Eureka Diamond as a lot of people were determined to know what it actually was. One hundred years after the Eureka was found, the De Beers diamond cartel decided to purchase the diamond and give it back to the people of South Africa. The diamond is now displayed at the Mine Museum in Kimberley, available for viewing and recognized as the symbol of South Africa’s diamond industry’s humble beginnings.
A GLOWING REPUTATION South Africa, vast and diverse, is famous for many things, among them diamonds – those shiny bits of compressed and superheated carbon that have sent men on crusades, started wars, bewitched kings and queens, and mesmerized many a fair maiden. Erasmus’ discovery in 1866 turned a sleepy farming community – which few cared to visit and knew about – into one of the most modern, most industrialized, and most genteel of South African cities of the time. For instance, Kimberley became the first town in the southern hemisphere to install electric street lights. The city’s sudden rise in importance led to one of the earliest international exhibitions in the world being staged there in 1892. Today, although its fortunes have waned since the heyday of the late 1900s and early 20th century, Kimberley continues to beckon to visitors. Like many people visiting South Africa, I’ve tended to overlook Kimberley, the capital of the Northern Cape. In all of my trips to this picturesque country, I’ve focused mainly on the Western Cape and its capital Cape Town, and to the northeast, Gauteng with Johannesburg and Pretoria. I’ve also spent considerable time in Mpumalanga and its own jewel, the famous Kruger National Park. I was therefore delighted and pleasantly surprised to discover yet another lovely and interesting part of South Africa.
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THE STAR OF AFRICA The Star of Africa, also known as the Cullinan I, is the largest gem-quality diamond ever found. The 3106.75 carat diamond was found on January 26, 1905 by Frederick Wells who was making a routine inspection trip to the mine when a ray of light shining from a mine wall caught his attention. Wells scaled the wall and extracted the largest diamond in the world. The Star of Africa is now placed in the sovereign’s royal scepter as part of the crown jewels of the United Kingdom.
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WHAT’S IN A NAME Kimberley originally went by the name the original Dutch settlers gave it – Vooruitzigt. However, English prospectors, who by then had grown in number and influence, began calling the area “New Rush” because of the virtual stampede of fortune seekers who were arriving in droves practically every day, drawn by the promise of hidden treasures under the city’s parched earth and rock.
NO RUSH IN NEW RUSH One of the first things I noticed when we rolled into this city of just over 200,000 people was how quiet and unhurried everything seemed to be. There were relatively few cars on the road, and most people seemed to stroll – even sashay – with the casual ease of a typical Sunday morning gait. Commerce seemed very relaxed, even in the heart of the central business district.
With interest in the area increasing due to the immense wealth being generated, colonial authorities were forced to place the area in some form of order. It is for this reason that Lord Kimberley, Secretary of State for the Colonies, declared that the place had to receive a “decent and intelligible name.” His Lordship, a man of classical education, could not stomach the proletarian moniker “New Rush” and could neither pronounce or spell the original Dutch name. A consensus was reached and New Rush became Kimberley, by Proclamation in 1873.
“Is it a holiday today?” I asked our guide. “No man, this is typical. Welcome to Kimberley”, he replied. “We like to keep things simple.” This is rural ambience at its best, I thought, and I was loving the place already. Although Kimberley is still a significant mining center, the “New Rush” has long been over and it shows in the city’s tranquil and charming ambience. There are no hordes of prospectors rushing into town and the shops and buildings seem to have been around for generations. However, a stroll through the city’s wide, jacaranda-lined avenues, with their imposing old mansions and sprawling gated properties that date back to the turn of the century, give visitors a glimpse of the kind of wealth and gentility that once beheld this lovely community.
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The very epitome of old world refinement and a classical bygone era is the venerable Kimberley Club, located in the center of town and a stone’s throw away from the Kimberley headquarters of De Beers. Founded in August 1881, the club was once the nucleus of the city’s high society, where only the best-dressed, wealthiest, and well-heeled were allowed to enter. Membership was, and still is, exclusive, although the “males only” restriction has long been lifted. With its period furniture, classic billiards room, wooden passages, grand staircase, cigar lounge, and faded, framed, blackand-white photos, a visit to the Kimberley Club is a step back in time.
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A HOLE IN ONE Of course, the highlight of any trip to Kimberley is a visit to the Big Hole, which is as plainly descriptive as it gets (think “New Rush”). The Big Hole is, well, a great big hole. Mining operations at the Big Hole ended in 1914. Since then, it has become the city’s main tourist attraction. De Beers later developed the area as a formal museum, with an open-air representation of early Kimberley, complete with streetscapes and dioramas, and exhibits of mining technology and transport. One can walk to an elevated platform at the very edge of this gigantic opening in the earth and marvel at its sheer size, or take an elevator ride down several stories where the mine’s equipment and tools have been faithfully preserved. Between 2002 and 2005, De Beers invested millions in developing the Big Hole’s tourism potential, with the hope of registering it as a World Heritage Site.
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DUG BY HAND Known also as the Open Mine or Kimberley Mine, the Big Hole is reportedly the largest hole in the world excavated by hand. From mid-July 1871 to 1914 up to 50,000 miners moved mountains of earth and rock with nothing more than picks and shovels, yielding over 3,000 kilos of diamonds. The Big Hole has a surface of 17 hectares and is 463 metres wide. It was excavated to a depth of 240 metres, but then debris reduced its depth to about 215 metres. Today, roughly 175 metres of the hole remains visible.
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LUXURY IN THE WILD From Kimberley, we flew by private plane to the Tutwa Desert Lodge, a private game reserve set in 16,000 hectares of pristine and unspoiled landscape. Tutwa is an oasis of calm and cool in the arid Northern Cape environment. From the air, the reservation looked like most of the Kalahari—a dry wasteland, scorched and unforgiving. On the ground, however, the desert came alive with stunning game and wildlife. A cattle ranch in days gone by, Tutwa is now home to leopard, giraffe, zebra, numerous antelope species, abundant birdlife and rare flora.
ROCK SHOPPING Not to be missed is the “Jewel Box”, a diamond and jewellery store located right in the visitor center. I had expected the shop to be a tourist trap but was pleasantly surprised to find that the quality of the diamonds was at par with the best in the world, and the prices lower than those of dealers in Johannesburg, Antwerp, and Tel Aviv. I was quite fortunate as no less than Ms. Anne Marie Lunt, the owner of the Jewel Box and whose family has been in the business for generations, gave me a personal tour of their nearby factory, where I was able to observe diamond-cutting and polishing firsthand. Whether or not you are in the market to buy one of these glittering rocks, the Jewel Box is definitely worth a visit and a crash course into the fascinating world of diamonds.
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Tutwa’s developers spared no expense in transforming the lodge into a world-class tourism facility. It boasts of a luxurious main guest house, beautiful rooms, polished floors and high ceilings, a fully-stocked wine cellar, and a fully-equipped restaurant. The experience was altogether beautiful and surreal. All around us was the African bush and yet we were embraced with this refinement and luxury. Tutwa is the ideal place for a quiet, intimate holiday, where one can enjoy the kind of peace and tranquillity that can only be had under the great, big, blue, African sky. One afternoon, I went kayaking with our guide on the reservation’s exclusive 24-kilometer stretch of the Orange River. “I love the Northern Cape,” I told him, as I stopped for a break, savouring the fresh air and drinking ice cold Windhoek beer. “Just wait. This is only the beginning,” he said, smiling broadly. Indeed it was. The desert was just then starting to reveal her secrets. n
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KIMBERLEY NEED TO KNOW Kimberley was named after then British Secretary of State for the Colonies Lord Kimberley. Nicknamed the Diamond City, it is primarily a diamond-mining center housing the now famous “Big Hole” that was dug by miners in search for diamonds. The hole has a surface of 17 hectares and is 463 meters wide. HOW TO GET THERE From Johannesburg, fly South African Express to Kimberley. Flights to Johannesburg are available via Qatar Airways, Thai Airways, and Cathay Pacific.
NAVIGATE YOURSELF: NORTHERN CAPE
TRAVELER’S CHECKLIST VISA REQUIREMENTS Filipino citizens who want to visit South Africa need a visa to enter the country. Visas can be applied for at the South African Embassy in Manila: 29/F Yuchengco Tower, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Avenue, Makati City. Tel (63)(2) 889-9383 | manila@ foreign.gov.za EXCHANGE RATE US$ 1 = 11.01 South African Rand 1 Zar = Php 4.0942 TIME DIFFERENCE The Philippines is 6 hours ahead of South Africa.
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WHEN TO GO Autumn (April to May) is the greenest time of the year when the days are mild and evenings are cool. Also, the savannahs start to surrender to the gentle breezes of the weather revealing its beautiful silkness.
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(Other) Things TO DO IN THE
NORTHERN CAPE
We’ve written in detail about five of Northern Cape’s best travel experiences, including four unique safari options. Here, ANGELICA BAYONA gives her recommendations for rounding out your great African adventure
S
outh Africa is on most travelers’ bucket list, including mine, which is why I didn’t think twice about packing up my things and heading off for a wilderness escapade to the Northern Cape last year. Northern Cape is probably best known for the Kalahari Desert. It’s also a mecca for outdoor and adventure activities, making it a most unusual tourist destination and a truly unforgettable holiday option. From its amazing landscapes, to its unique and diverse culture and its friendly people, Northern Cape is a prime destination that offers everything for the traveler seeking endless adventures.
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CAMP OUT AT THE AUGRABIES FALLS NATIONAL PARK
The Augrabies Falls National Park, south west of Upington on the edge of the Kalahari Desert, spans the length of the Orange River up to Angola. Augrabies takes its name from the falls, with the Khoi word “aukoerebis” meaning “a place of Great Noise” which may be attributed to the powerful flow of water unleashed from rocky surroundings within the 18 km abyss of the Orange River Gorge. Both sides of the Orange River provide sanctuary to a diversity of species of birds, reptiles, and other animals found only in Africa. Dundi Lodge is conveniently situated three kilometers from the Augrabies falls, offering African-themed luxury suites with superb hospitality and great food. www.sanparks.org/parks/augrabies
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June - JULY 2014
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GO GREEN AT THE TUTWA DESERT LODGE
The Tutwa Desert Lodge is a crisp unspoiled landscape of 16,000 hectares of private game reserve at the heart of the Green Kalahari. The newly established lodge is an oasis of calm within a vast and untamed environment that is committed to a greener lifestyle and energy saving practices offering a unique, private wildlife safari experience.
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HAVE BRANDY AND PORT AFTER A DELICIOUS MEAL
While you’re here, stop over at Bezalel Wine and Brandy Estate to try their delicious port and brandy, while partaking of excellent home-cooked fare. The estate’s restaurant consists only of several tables in their reception room, which also doubles as a tasting room and a souvenir shop.
Professional rangers can guide you through the game reserve to see leopard, giraffes, antelopes, and other birdlife and flora. Guests can enjoy river rafting and fly fishing, topped off with an exclusive lunch by the river. www.tutwalodge.co.za
All in all, the dining set-up doesn’t look much at first glance, and you’d be forgiven for considering passing it up. However, we were very happily surprised to count lunch here as one of our best meals in the Northern Cape. So take a detour here and get set to be wined and dined. www.bezalel.co.za
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ENJOY A GLASS OR TWO OF SOUTH AFRICAN WINE
Go on a tour of the Orange River Wine Cellars in Upington. The cooperative consists of five wineries situated in Upington, Kakamas, Keimoes, Grootdrink and Grobershoop, wonderful desert landscapes that allow access to indigenous flora and fauna. Although not as well-known as its counterparts in Western Cape, this winery offers an extensive range of reasonablypriced, award-winning red, white, and dessert wines. www. orangeriverwines.com
JUNE - JULY 2014
SAMPLE A NORTHERN CAPE DEGUSTATION
Near Upington and Keimoes is a charming boutique hotel called the African Vineyard Guest House. It’s a tranquil oasis within Kanoneiland, the largest inhabited inland island in South Africa. Its slow cooked, country-style meals, personally overseen by a creative chef who cooks on inspiration and paired excellently with local wines, can be enjoyed amidst a cozy and artistic ambience. www.africanvineyard.co.za
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LIFE ALONG THE VAAL AND RIET RIVERS
BOARD A CANOE FOR AN AFTERNOON OF RIVER RAFTING The Northern Cape is ideal for river rafting and canoeing as it is home to the Orange and Vaal Rivers. These rivers’ long stretches of flat open water accentuated by rapids are favored for white water adventures. A breathtaking backdrop of mountains and neighboring Namibia on the other side of the river offer extra icing on the cake.
HOW TO GET THERE To reach Northern Cape, we flew to Johannesburg via Thai Airways, and then transferred to South African Express for Kimberley, capital of Northern Cape. Kimberley is also accessible from Johannesburg via a four-hour drive.
GO FLY-FISHING Northern Cape’s Vaal, Riet and Orange Rivers are well-known destinations for fly-fishing. These rivers are abundant with fish. A serene afternoon of fly-fishing is made even more memorable by the beautiful scenery of the Northern Cape mountains.
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TAKE OFF ON A HOT AIR BALLOON
The hot air balloon – mankind’s oldest form of aviation – is an intriguing blend of personal challenge, adventure, and romance. It’s also a lovely, old-fashioned way to get closer to nature from up high, and the best way to see the beautiful tabletop scenery of the vast lands of Northern Cape. If you’re lucky, you’ll even see herds of animals enjoying their kingdom.
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ART & HISTORY AT THE WILDEBEEST KUIL ROCK ART CENTER
Over 400 engravings that are dated between 800 to 1,200 years old can be viewed at the Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art Center. The San and Khoe people, along with researchers, joined together to conserve these engravings located all over a small hill. This is an excellent place to shop for arts and crafts made by the San tribes, as well. www.wildebeestkuil.itgo.com n
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Check-In Johannesburg
THE PERFECT WEEKEND IN
JOHANNESBURG
PHOTOs BY
CHRISTINE CUNANAN finds 54 on Bath worth returning to
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APRIL-MAY 2014
Johannesburg
J
ohannesburg is not exactly a major tourist destination, in spite of its importance vis-à-vis the rest of the African continent. In fact, it often gets bypassed by travelers on their way to the
excitement and glamour of Cape Town and its environs, or to the adventures offered by a safari. However, Johannesburg appealed to me from the very first moment I set foot in it. This was after an overnight flight from Asia, on a glorious early summer morning in November 2012, with the scent of oranges in the air and the jacaranda trees in full bloom. And since then, I’ve liked it enough to spend serious time on three trips.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED On my most recent visit, though, which was for the equivalent of a long weekend prior to boarding The Blue Train out of Pretoria for a 30-hour journey across the country to Cape Town, all I really wanted to do in Johannesburg was to visit some favorite restaurants, try several new ones, and shop for African crafts. It was not an earthshaking itinerary, and for this I sought a low-key hotel that was big on luxury and convenient in location. I could not have picked a better hotel for what I wanted to do, on my third trip to Johannesburg in 14 months.
APRIL-MAY 2014
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SUNDAYS AT ROSEBANK An upmarket crafts market called Finders Keepers has just started on Sundays in the covered parking lot of the Rosebank Mall, adjacent to 54 on Bath. It’s full of stalls selling everything from original clothing and handmade dolls to organic lotions and vintage household items.
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Check-In Johannesburg
BUSINESS AND PLEASURE 54 on Bath is definitely a corporate warrior’s hotel. It’s one of Johannesburg’s best –stylish and sophisticated, designed in muted neutral colors with a mixture of serious and whimsical art for an occasional splash of accents; while being streamlined, efficient and located near the key business districts. It’s also a great hotel for leisure travelers, especially on weekends, when the neighborhood of Rosebank comes alive with the kind of local color frequent travelers always are on the lookout for in a destination. I was unaware of this local color at 54 on Bath’s doorstep, at the time I booked my stay, as I’d decided to stay there based solely on the gushing guest reviews I had read online. Johannesburg still has a dearth of luxury hotel options, you see, compared to its more famous sister city down west, and 54 on Bath was one of the handful that came highly recommended. It was also one of the few choices that ticked off all the boxes for a finicky traveler like myself.
A WEEKEND OF COINCIDENCES So it was pure blissful coincidence that a wonderful weekend market had just opened in the adjacent shopping mall’s parking lot, and a crafts market for African products had recently been renovated as well, on the weekend I came to stay at 54 on Bath.
AFRICAN CRAFT MARKET This unique shopping destination features tourist souvenirs, along with intricate arts and crafts from South Africa, as well as from all over the African continent including Congo, the Ivory Coast, Zimbabwe and Cameroon.
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These local experiences made all the difference to my weekend in Johannesburg, although I ended up checking out with significantly heavier luggage than I had arrived with, as a result of my forays into the local retail scene. The hotel is also connected by an internal walkway with the Rosebank Mall and its basement African Craft Market, as well as convenient to streets lined with coffee shops and casual restaurants – thus, sidestepping the security issue that plagues independent travelers staying at other hotels. www.travelife.biz
APRIL-MAY 2014
Johannesburg
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“54 on Bath ticked off all the boxes for the finicky traveler.”
APRIL-MAY 2014
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Check-In Johannesburg LUCK ON MY SIDE As with previous trips to Johannesburg, I was lucky with my accommodations as well. It was a corner room on the top floor that looked out onto a quiet section of the city – and the minute I walked in, I immediately flung open all the windows to take advantage of a cool breeze wafting through my double exposure windows on a very fine morning. The other wonderful surprise here was the hotel restaurant, which was simply called Level Four. At the outset, the rather straightforward name alone inspired little zest for a gustatory experience and I admittedly had few expectations of being wowed by its food. However, our first meal here, which was lunch on the day we arrived, was satisfactory enough for us to return several more times for an equally enjoyable second lunch and a Sunday dinner. An added incentive was the adjacent champagne bar, which dangled the ever-present option of a bubbly start to each meal, literally steps away.
Breakfast
WHAT KEEPS GUESTS COMING BACK The menu at Level Four is pared down, in keeping with the overall mood of the hotel. Nevertheless, every dish we ordered over three visits was delicious, without turning into an elaborate production. It’s a testament to the chef ’s skills that we ordered practically everything on a menu of classic dishes with an African twist, and came away happy each time. In fact, this also captures the whole experience of spending a weekend at 54 on Bath, an understated hotel with an extremely high guest return rate. Nothing here shouts for attention, or even stands out for being glamorous in the usual way of five-star establishments. In fact, the 54 on Bath is on the small side, with a chic lobby that doubles as a tea salon. But at the end of it all, you will realize that you were made happy by your stay, and that you are very pleased. n
54 ON BATH www.tsogosunhotels.com
Level Four
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APRIL-MAY 2014