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Winter
Wonderland
PHOTOS BY CHRISTINE CUNANAN.
CHRISTINE CUNANAN sails along the Danube to Budapest with AMA Waterways
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VOL.8 - ISSUE 4
VOL.8 - ISSUE 4
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EUROPE LARGE QUARTERS IN A TIGHT FIT By the standards of the top luxury ocean liners, the AmaPrima suites are modest, as all riverboats are, since the ship is confined to a particular width to navigate the river locks. In fact, at 11.58 meters across, the AmaPrima is probably among widest ships plying the Danube River, as there were
our passage through the locks and our rise and fall in tandem with the water levels. To do so, I simply stuck my finger out because the walls were that close. Within these narrow parameters that all ships plying the Danube River must adhere to, the suites on the AmaPrima are already among the largest in the industry.
AT YOUR SERVICE Meanwhile, on the Internet, passengers have been writing about the superb cruise experience on the AmaPrima largely due to the enthusiasm of its hardworking crew, so I was prepared for a generally happy sailing even before I’d left home. Nevertheless, I was completely surprised by the extent to which this multi-tasking crew of 49 went to ensure the satisfaction and comfort of each guest.
The sensation of being so near the walls on both sides of the river locks as we sailed always left me breathless, and I couldn’t help touching the walls as I stood on my balcony observing our passage through and our rise and fall in tandem with the water levels.
literally only a few inches of space between the river walls and the boat as it sailed through some of the 27 river locks on this trip. The sensation of being so near the walls on both sides as we sailed always left me breathless, and I couldn’t help touching the walls as I stood on my balcony observing
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They are efficiently designed as well, with neutrals shades that are easy on the eyes, comfortable beds that can be adjusted to personal preferences, power showers and picture windows that can be shaded for privacy in the bathroom.
“Let us know if your beds are too soft or too hard for you so we can quickly do something about it,” said our cruise manager, for instance, at the orientation on the first afternoon. Indeed, the team onboard took the effort to get to know us and we were made to feel like no request was too difficult or too taxing.
ABOUT THE AMAPRIMA I settled on the Danube River because this route includes the truly unique Christmas market in the home of the aristocratic Thurn und Taxis family in Regensberg, Germany and the Rathausplatz Christmas market of Vienna. It also offered a magical dinner sailing into Budapest, a quietly dramatic city unlike any other when lit up at night.
he German city of Nuremberg is famous for the Nazi war trials that took place in the Palace of Justice from 1945 to 1949, and, in the winter, for its old-fashioned Christmas market proudly selling only locally handcrafted toys and products in the town square. This was also the boarding point for our eight-day cruise along the Danube River through Germany and Vienna to Budapest on the riverboat AmaPrima.
HOME FOR A WEEK
There are many Christmas markets cruises plying either the Danube River or the Rhine River each year, and it’s always a toss-up regarding which river to sail on as each has its own set of charms.
Carefully choosing the cruise line is also important as these ships become your home on the water, and most are inclusive of all meals and entertainment. After much research on ships and onboard experiences, I settled on the award-
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The AmaPrima offers two restaurants and an observation lounge, a heated swimming pool on its sundeck, a full service spa and beauty salon, a well-equipped fitness center, bicycles, and complimentary WiFi. Its main restaurant is accredited by the Chaine des Rotisseurs.
winning AMA Waterways, known for its wonderful service, well-organized tours and immaculate boats sailing through the rivers of Europe, Asia and Africa. The AmaPrima, one of the newest in its fleet and recently chosen best new river ship by the editors of CruiseCritic.com, just so happened to be sailing for the particular route and date we wanted. This is an intimate 164-passenger ship that offers spacious staterooms with double balconies on its second and third floors, on both sides of elegantly-lit corridors. One balcony is an actual terrace and the other is a French verandah with floor-to-ceiling windows that bring in more light and the illusion of additional space.
VOL.8 - ISSUE 4
VOL.8 - ISSUE 4
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EUROPE SWEETS ON THE SHIP One afternoon, too, the ship’s staff prepared a private cookie decorating session in the chef ’s kitchen just for my family and friends as the children in our group were the only little passengers onboard. We spent a wonderful afternoon making cookies as we sailed along the most picturesque part of the Danube, with the AmaPrima executive chef, the Ama Waterways corporate pastry chef, who happened to be onboard, and a phalanx of enthusiastic staff members in attendance.
Something For Everyone
The daily land tours on this particular cruise were small, flexible and varied enough to keep everyone happy, with specialist guides in most destinations. For our walking tour of Passau in Germany, for instance, we had an archeologist from the local university. Meanwhile, a lady who had grown up and studied right in the monastery of Melk in Austria accompanied us for our visit there. On several occasions, we were even provided our own private tour guide since our group was deemed large enough to go on our own. There were also other options to the Christmas markets tours on most days, including bicycle tours and brewery visits.
On another evening, the same team that had been serving our meals in either of the ship’s two restaurants donned Santa Claus hats and serenaded us with Christmas carols for a festive evening.
SMALL MIRACLE Perhaps the most astonishing experience of all was the time I left my hat at a restaurant in Vienna and I only realized this upon returning to the boat from lunch and we were already set to sail in 45 minutes. The restaurant was a good 20-minute taxi ride away, and I was not even sure if my hat would still be where I had left it.
Wonderful Little Extras
Most tours and activities are already included in the cruise price of AMA Waterways. In addition, there were so many complimentary treats on this cruise that we all felt positively spoiled. In Nuremberg, for example, each passenger was given a token that could be exchanged at designated Christmas market booths for a cup of mulled wine or a pretzel. Meanwhile, in Regensburg, all passengers received tickets to the entrance fee-based Thurn und Taxis Christmas market.
“Let us know if your beds are too soft or too hard for you so we can quickly do something about it,” said our cruise manager. Indeed, we were made to feel like no request was too difficult or too taxing.
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Although this was mainly a Christmas markets cruise, it was also sailing under a beer theme so excursions to famous local breweries were also offered as complimentary options to the market tours. A noted author of books and literature on beer also conducted lectures and tastings. Then, at the end of cruise, each passenger received brandy glasses, Christmas chocolates and a tin soldier. The female passengers, children included, also received a beautiful silk stole sans logos or branding. AMA Waterways changes the color of the stole each year so that regular passengers are able to collect and use these in different colors.
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VOL.8 - ISSUE 4
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The Christmas mar ke
Christmas mar ket in Nuremberg
t at Passau Strolling through Regensburg
The chef of the AmaPrima
Ta stes of a Re al C hri stm as Regensburg
The Thurn und Taxis Romantic Christmas Market on the park grounds of the St. Emmeran Castle, the family home of the aristocratic Thurn und Taxis family, is one of the most wellcurated Christmas markets in Europe. Only locally made food and crafts are sold here, in brightly decorated wooden booths around the courtyard and the park pathways lined with torches and bonfires.
Vienna
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The abbey of Melk
The Thurn und Taxis Christmas market
The traditional Viennese Christmas market in the square in front of City Hall is the city’s best-known because of its majestic backdrop. It’s also famous for the sale of traditional foodstuffs and candies, and a
great favorite of children because of the many Christmas-related activities for them, such as cookie and candle making classes, on the ground floor of the building.
Budapest
The Budapest Christmas Fair and Winter Festival on Vorosmarty Square is large and organized according to themes. The stalls at the center of one pedestrian shopping street just off the square are dedicated to clothing and crafts. Meanwhile, the wooden cottages at the center of the square are full of vendors grilling sausages and meats or making the traditional Hungarian roll pastry for eating right on the spot. This is one of the liveliest spots for an evening out in the run-up to Christmas.
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SIDETRIP TO PRAGUE The Christmas markets cruise of AMA Waterways along the Danube River sails between Nuremberg, Germany and Budapest, Hungary. Nuremberg is accessible by land from Frankfurt (2.5 hours) or Prague (3 hours). For this trip, we chose to fly into Prague for a week of sightseeing prior to our cruise. Prague has one of the loveliest Christmas markets in Europe in its Old Town and this beautiful city is full of old-fashioned holiday spirit. AMA Waterways offers optional extensions to Prague at the start or end of the cruise. While in Prague, dine at Alcron (www.radissonblu.com) and La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoisie (www.ladegustation.cz), Prague’s two top Michelin-starred restaurants. Cotto Crudo at the Four Seasons Prague (www. fourseasons.com) serves the finest Italian food in town.
Passing by the cruise manager’s desk, I explained my dilemma to him and he then said: “We’ll see what we can do.” Nevertheless, the odds were against me, so I returned to my suite, practically giving up ever seeing the hat again. Just before we sailed out of Vienna and onwards to Budapest, however, there was a knock on my door. When I opened the door, there was the cruise manager and he had my hat in his hand, which he handed to me with a big smile and with no further explanations before bounding back down the corridor to get ready for the sail out of Vienna.
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MAKING MEMORIES Meanwhile, the Danube River itself and the well-known towns that line its banks between Germany and Hungary are lovely in any season. However, in December, the highlights of this cruise are the Christmas markets, as there is at least one in every major tourist town. We visited seven markets on our trip and never even got a twinge of “Christmas market fatigue” as each was different and ever so picturesque. To make our visits to these Christmas markets more special, we collected unique ornaments from each. In one market, I selected a tin Christmas tree hammered by hand, while at another, I picked out
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a carved ornament of a little girl. At the Thurn und Taxis Christmas market, I got a felt doll with a slice of dried orange and a cinnamon stick sewn onto it, and in Budapest I bought a wooden figurine painted in red and white. When I finally returned home, literally hours before Christmas Eve, even before completely unpacking my bags I hung all these ornaments on my tree to remind me of this lovely holiday, as well as of this truly enjoyable Christmas markets cruise along the Danube with AMA Waterways. n
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